RV-Archive.digest.vol-hm
December 07, 1999 - December 13, 1999
Hi Ric,
Rich Jankowski says put teflon tape on the wing skins and it only needs to be
an inch or so wide.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Corrosion pervention under rivets |
I was just wandering how important it is to make sure there is primer under
the rivets. When you drill, dimple, and especially when you counter sink you
lose the Alclad surface. I notice some people use the deberring tool on the
dimples so the rivet fits a little tighter. Which will remove the primer?
Will these area become a problem when the topcoat paint cracks around the
rivet after a period of time?
Also on the interior do you prime the rivets or is it OK to leave them as is.
When building I primed all the parts and then assembled so the rivets are
bare.
Thank Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Bob-alternator question |
>
>
>I am trying to hook a regulator up that is a external unit #F7078 that is
about
>one inch by two inch by 1/4 inch thick that is embedded in potting compound
>with a small pot sticking out of the potting compound (voltage
adjustment)......
>You mount this unit to the rear of your alternator and hook the pigtails
up as
>the instructions detail.
> I am using your supplied drawing.... z fig 2. Where, in the battery alt
>switch, there exits a wire to the OV module ( which I purchased) to the
CB to
>the "A" lead to the regulator......I can't seem to find this connection on
the
>Mark Landoll regulator ......no "A" lead is described or apparent on this
type
>of regulator ( as described above).
> I want to use your drawings so am I better off using the Wells/Ford unit
or can
>I still use the small "can" I described above and hope to find the proper
lead
>??
>
>The instructions that came with the "can" state:: From the alternator
connect
>the red wire to the alternator studd labeled BAT... connect the yellow
wire to
>the studd labeled STA & connect the green wire to the studd labeled
FLD...there
>is no mention of the control line & I want to install (via your z fig 2
>)......I assume the regulator is getting its B+ from the BAT terminal.
H E L
>P .......
Without a schematic of the Landoll regulator, I
cannot be sure. You can try this and see if it
runs (radios and lights off of course). Connect
RED and YELLOW together and run to Field Circuit
breaker (like A and S on the Ford Replacment). Connect
GREEN to the field. Ground the case. Fire engine up
at idle RPM close the field switch and watch the
voltage. If 14.2 or thereabouts, increase RPM and
see that it stays there. If it does, you're good
to go. The worst that can happen is smoke the regulator
(but you couldn't use it anyhow) or spikes up
in voltage whereupon the OV module should trip
you off line . . . this may happen so fast that
you don't even get a voltage reading.
The Generic FORD replacment regualtor can be had
for $10-25 at any parts store.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lasting duribility of Dupont Variprime ? on flexabilty |
I am looking to here from builders that have used Variprime under there
topcoats and have flown the plane for some time. Interested in hearing how it
is holding up and what you used as a topcoat. I have some doubts on its
resistance to cracking when flexed. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lasting duribility of Dupont Variprime ? on flexabilty |
I used variprime in my last RV-6, inside and out, I flew it for 6 years when
I sold it last year. I used Dupont Imron for the top coat. I found it to
be very durable no cracking, but of course my aircraft was hangered. I plan
on using it again, I live in DuPont country, east coast salty air.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB-Aft Fuselage Skin
----- Original Message -----
From: <WHigg1170(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 8:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lasting duribility of Dupont Variprime ? on flexabilty
>
> I am looking to here from builders that have used Variprime under there
> topcoats and have flown the plane for some time. Interested in hearing how
it
> is holding up and what you used as a topcoat. I have some doubts on its
> resistance to cracking when flexed. Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rocketmania(at)aol.com |
Listers,
I have decided that will divide up my HR2 kit. It is a brand new kit. I will
let the fuse go for $10,374 Iincludes the finish kit) and the wings for
$4126, or the whole thing for $14,500.
Fuse Items: Injector Elbow, Injector mounting bracket, alternate air valve,
ram air inlet, heat muff, heater valve assembly, exhaust system (not
vettermans, but it is 3 into 1 stainless), hartzell polished spinner for
2-blade, fuel pump #23 (dukes), light smoke tint canopy, gearlegs
Wing items: one piece 032 top skins, 032 outboard L/E skins., Oli Brennan's
sheared wing tips with light kit option.
If interested, please call me at:
612-496-2414 Hm
612-726-7628 Wk (days)
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | RV Christmas gifts |
Tis the season to give your RV friends a gift they will remember and
use. A gift that has great function, style, and prestige. The best part,
a gift that is very affordable! The gift I am talking about is the RV
ToolKey. It is a key fob tool for popping open your RV aircraft fuel
caps. It is a handy tool to keep in your pocket with your aircraft and
hangar keys on. The ToolKey proudly displays the RV model your friend
has on the head of the tool. Toolkey is made from tough, polished,
stainless steel to last a lifetime. The ToolKey is only $6.50 including
shipping in the US. If YOU are interested in this item you may want to
do some hinting to friends and loved ones about this great item!
Contact Gretz Aero at the address below, send an e-mail, or call and
leave a message on the Gretz Aero answering machine to place your order.
Leave your Master Card or VISA number, expiration date, and of course
your address. Or if you wish, you may send a personal check to the
address below. BE SURE TO GIVE YOUR RV AIRCRAFT MODEL. ToolKey RV models
available are: RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, RV-8, and RV-8A.
Have a great Holiday Season!
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
3664 E. Lake Drive
Littleton, CO 80121
303-770-3811
gretz_aero(at)h2net.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Rear Fuel Tank Baffle |
Why are the clamps needed if you've already riveted the baffle?
Larry Bowen
Rv-8, beginning tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Van Artsdalen,
> Scott
> Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 6:29 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Rear Fuel Tank Baffle
>
>
>
>
> I did both. I riveted on the rear baffle, put on the wood clamps, and let
> it sit about 24 hours. I then removed the clamps and screwed it onto the
> spar and pretty much left it there.
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
[snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Fuel Tank Baffle |
>Message text written by Stephan:
>>Some posters on the list have suggested using Saran Wrap
>over the spars and allowing the tank to final cure on the wing to insure a
>good fit. This would make it impossible to apply the wood clamps as shown
>on Sam's web page.<
>
Stephan,
I clamped some long pieces of 1 x 2 (wrapped in Saran Wrap) to the
tank with a gazillion C-clamps. Pictures at
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/wing/w12.html
One piece of wood was located so it was pushing on the aft edge of
the rear baffle, clamping it tight against the tank skin. Quite a
bit of Proseal was squeezed out between the rear baffle and skin, but
this excess Proseal could only go right up against the tank skin, and
it did not cause any problems with the fit of the tank to the wing.
I left the clamps on the tank about 5 days, and the Saran Wrap peeled
off without too much angst. I think this was a lot easier than
putting the tank on the wing, and did just as good a job.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings skinned, getting ready to do fuselage)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Rear Fuel Tank Baffle |
>
>Why are the clamps needed if you've already riveted the baffle?
>
>Larry Bowen
>
>>
>>
>> I did both. I riveted on the rear baffle, put on the wood clamps, and let
>> it sit about 24 hours. I then removed the clamps and screwed it onto the
>> spar and pretty much left it there.
>> --
>> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> > Network Administrator
>> Union Safe Deposit Bank
>> 209-946-5116
>[snip]
If you look at the rear baffle, the rivets that attach it to the tank
skin are pretty close to the radius, with most of the width of the
flange aft of the rivet. That long width of flange will have a bunch
of Proseal under it, which will end to force the skin away from the
flange. So, if you don't do anything, the Proseal will cure with the
skin forced outwards, and the distance between the top and bottom
edges of the tank skin will be quite a bit more than the distance
from the top to bottom of the main spar. You might be able to force
the skin down to the spar when you screw it in place, but the Proseal
would be cured, and you would have very unsightly bulges between the
row of rivets, and the aft edges of the tank skin. These bulges
would not be good for either the appearance or the aerodynamics.
Bottom line - you need to do something to hold the tank skin firmly
against the flanges on the rear baffle while the Proseal cures.
Have fun with those tanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings skinned, getting ready to do fuselage)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vaso Bovan" <vaso(at)bovan.com> |
| Subject: | Ney Nozzle on Lycoming Engines ? |
An aftermarket product, the Ney nozzle, provides extra oil lubrication of
Lycoming engine cam shafts. I'd like to know whether Ney nozzles are worth
specifying when overhauling an engine. One opinion is that Ney nozzles do
significantly increase lubrication (and cooling). The other point of view
(expressed by an experienced engine overhauler) is that the extra oil squirt
of the Ney nozzle takes oil pressure away from other oil galleries,
especially during the crucial first minute, so that the net effect of Ney
nozzles is negative. He mentioned that some Lycoming engines can be fitted
with bigger oil pumps, which compensate for the pressure drop caused by Ney
nozzles.
Which opinion is most correct ?
-Vaso
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pat <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Alodine & Primer |
I prepared and painted all of the empenage control surface parts this
weekend. First let me say that my idea of saving time by doing a lot of
parts at once didn't work. Unlike previous times, I scuffed the parts with
an ultra-fine scotchbrite pad during the alumiprep phase. When I alodined
the parts, they came out dark bronze with some chocolate colored areas. I
could scratch these darker areas off with my thumbnail. I got the bright
idea to buf the excess off with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. When I
applied the Azko epoxy primer, it looked like it wasn't sticking well;
little craters where the first coat didn't stick to the aluminum. I am
going to move forward and try to save what I have. I don't plan to strip
all of those parts.
My questions are: 1) has anyone else had this heavy build-up? 2) what did
you do about it? 3) What kind of corrosion problems can I expect on parts
where the alodine doesn't get covered with paint?
I know a lot of builders don't prime the parts, but I plan to park this
thing outside at the ocean.
Pat Armstrong
RV6A empenage control surfaces.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pat <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Alumaprep and Alodyne rinse removal |
A buddy of mine came up with a good idea. Industrial grade plastic bags.
Put the part in, pour the alodine in, then squeeze the bag around the
part. Haven't tried it yet but it sounds like it might work.
Pat Armstrong
RV6A empenage control surfaces, bummed about alodine/primer experiences!
----------
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com[SMTP:MRobert569(at)aol.com]
Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alumaprep and Alodyne rinse removal
Another variation of the 6" PVC is to cut it in half length-wise, put caps
on both ends and tie it to a couple of small pieces of wood for legs so it
won't roll. It worked great for the long pieces and then I just cut it
down as necessary for the shorter pieces so I wouldn't use as much alodyne.
I used the other halp for the alumiprep/etch. Worked great.
Mike Robertson
RV8A QB
In a message dated Wed, 1 Dec 1999 1:43:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
"Randall Henderson" writes:
>
> >What did you use for large tubs, how large are they and where did you
find
> >them?
>
>
> Got the tubs at Home Base -- I think the largest was 3' x 2' and a little
> over 1' deep. Black molded plastic, not too expensive. Don't remember
> exactly how much tho. Wouldn't have minded having some even bigger once
in a
> while.
>
> I also used a long piece of 6" PVC pipe, permanently capped at one end
and
> with a removable cap at the other, for long pieces (angles and such). Put
> the parts in, pour the solution in, cap the top end and slosh it around.
> Works great! The gutter idea is also a good one but I never tried that.
>
> Randall
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
> Pat,
I found that the best way to remove excess Alodine build up is during the
rinse stage after the part is removed from the Alodine tank. By immersing the
part in a tank (Coleman coolers or garbage cans work well) of fresh water, you
can rub the affected areas with your hand. Make sure you are wearing Latex or
Nitrile gloves while doing this. Rub only while the part is submerged in the
water. This will safely remove the excess buildup.
Several times in the past, I have left parts in the AlumiPrep tank to long.
This is evidenced by a grayish or black oxide coating on the non alclad areas
of 2024 T-3 parts. The same method described above works well for removing this
coating. This is important because the oxide coating will prevent proper
bonding of the Alodine to these areas.
I prefer to do the ScotchBrite scuffing prior to the AlumiPrep cleaning. The
craters you saw while priming are areas where you have left a contaminant on
the surface of the part. You might try cleaning the areas where the primer
didn't adhere with DuPont PrepSol cleaner, then repriming. Alternatively, let
the primer dry. You can then re etch and Alodine the part. The epoxy primer
won't be damaged by the etch or Alodine. The AlumiPrep will bleach the primer
slightly. The Alodine will stain it darker but won't hurt it if rinsed off
promptly. I have done this and it has worked fine for me. Hope this helps.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
>
>
> When I alodined
> the parts, they came out dark bronze with some chocolate colored areas. I
> could scratch these darker areas off with my thumbnail. I got the bright
> idea to buf the excess off with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. When I
> applied the Azko epoxy primer, it looked like it wasn't sticking well;
> little craters where the first coat didn't stick to the aluminum. I am
> going to move forward and try to save what I have. I don't plan to strip
> all of those parts.
>
> My questions are: 1) has anyone else had this heavy build-up? 2) what did
> you do about it? 3) What kind of corrosion problems can I expect on parts
> where the alodine doesn't get covered with paint?
>
> I know a lot of builders don't prime the parts, but I plan to park this
> thing outside at the ocean.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
Lister's,
In fitting the canopy skirt junction to the 821 top skin area, under the
windscreen fairing, it apears that I am going to have to trim the 821 top
skin so that the canopy can fully be closed. The instructions do not say to
do this, but I don't see any other solution. The whole area will be under
the windscreen fairing that I have yet to build up.
What did you 8 builders do in this area?
Thanks......Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Orr <morr(at)vt.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: HELP! Opinions NEEDED! |
Thanks for all of the comments I've recieved. Based on the quicker build
time I think I may go with an -8, either that or get a partner and purchase
a flying -4. The final decision will be made if the check for the tail goes
out in a month.
Again, Thanks
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Corrosion pervention under rivets |
Hi Bill:
I'll chime in here, probably get flamed but what the heck. I was concerned
about this too. After I deburred, dimpled, "countersunk" the dimple via the
deburring tool trick, I took a q-tip and dipped it in primer, and then
applied a dab of primer in each hole. This way I avoided having to prime
the entire outside of the skin. (priming is a real pain for me as I have to
take everything out to my occupied garage and hassle with moving things
around each time I prime). It may sound like it is time-consuming, but it
doesn't take that much time at all. Is it necessary? Maybe, maybe not.
Does it make *me* feel a bit better about preventing corrosion? Yeah, sort
of. The time involved in doing it is so small that if it is *not* really
necessary, then I haven't wasted too much time with it.
If you decide to prime under those rivets, the above technique works real
slick. Once the q-tip gets saturated with primer, It will take on the shape
of the dimple and apply the primer real nice. Don't get the Q-tip too
soaked, or else you will get runs. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Second wing spar
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 7:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Corrosion pervention under rivets
>
>
>I was just wandering how important it is to make sure there is primer under
>the rivets. When you drill, dimple, and especially when you counter sink
you
>lose the Alclad surface. I notice some people use the deberring tool on the
>dimples so the rivet fits a little tighter. Which will remove the primer?
>Will these area become a problem when the topcoat paint cracks around the
>rivet after a period of time?
>
>Also on the interior do you prime the rivets or is it OK to leave them as
is.
>When building I primed all the parts and then assembled so the rivets are
>bare.
>
>Thank Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
pat wrote:
>
>
> I prepared and painted all of the empenage control surface parts this
> weekend. First let me say that my idea of saving time by doing a lot of
> parts at once didn't work. Unlike previous times, I scuffed the parts with
> an ultra-fine scotchbrite pad during the alumiprep phase. When I alodined
> the parts, they came out dark bronze with some chocolate colored areas. I
> could scratch these darker areas off with my thumbnail. I got the bright
> idea to buf the excess off with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. When I
> applied the Azko epoxy primer, it looked like it wasn't sticking well;
> little craters where the first coat didn't stick to the aluminum. I am
> going to move forward and try to save what I have. I don't plan to strip
> all of those parts.
>
> My questions are: 1) has anyone else had this heavy build-up? 2) what did
> you do about it? 3) What kind of corrosion problems can I expect on parts
> where the alodine doesn't get covered with paint?
>
> I know a lot of builders don't prime the parts, but I plan to park this
> thing outside at the ocean.
>
> Pat Armstrong
> RV6A empenage control surfaces.
>
>
Pat,
I use AKZO and am very pleased with it. If your parts are brown, they
have been submerged too long. I prefer doing a lot of parts at once and
use an assembly line method that works very well. I alumiprep a piece
and rinse it with water. Place it in a container of alodine and then
alumiprep another piece while it is soaking. I hose off the the
alumiprep and place that piece in the alodine and take out the first
piece and hose it off and dry it off and put it on a rack to dry then
start the process over again. Each piece is in the alodine for about 3
minutes. They come out looking like they have been anodized gold.
After everything is alodined, I mix up the AKZO and paint. Pick up a
piece and paint one side except for where you are holding it and put it
back on the rack. Go down the line of parts and do this. Once
everything has one side partially done, go back to beginning and paint
the end you were holding on to that didn't get painted. Once one side
is completely painted, go back to beginning and do the other side the
same way.
Sounds like a lot of work, but it goes very quickly. Don't put a heavy
coat on each piece. A very thin almost translucent coat is all that's
needed. I use a touch-up gun and have found that it needs to be about
2" from piece being painted and move fairly fast. Drys rock hard, fast!
My best results have been when temps are in the 50 to 60 degree range.
To do flat skins, I take a 6' step ladder and clamp a 4' board about
waist high parallel to the ground. It then looks like a paint
easel(sp?). Clamp the skin to the ladder and it's much easier to paint
in an upright position. I used to spray the skins while laying flat and
paint would drip from the vent hole onto the piece or when the paint was
low, the angle of the gun made the pickup tube higher than the paint and
it wouldn't pickup the paint.
My parts rack for putting the parts on is a 20' extension ladder laying
between two saw horses. Parts like fuselage ribs, wing ribs, flanges,
etc., lay on it real well. I walk down the length of the ladder and
pick a part up, spray it, lay it down, and go to the next. For smaller
parts, I have a piece of rabbit wire on a stand. These parts I let lay
and spray flat. The wire lets the spray blast pass through and the part
doesn't want to take off.
Sorry for the long-winded message, I appreciate tips from other builders
and like to share experiences in hope of helping others too.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 Wings & Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"List Support Auction Continues..." (Dec 5, 12:21pm)
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Final Days to Make Your Bid! |
Dear Listers,
The List Support Auction is still underway with only 2 or 3 days left to
make your bid! I've received a number of new bids on the items
generously donated by Steven and Archie. I've listed the items up for
auction below and have updated the current high-bids. If your bid was
lower than the one shown below on a given item, it means that someone
else has bid a greater amount. If you still would like the item, please
feel free to send in a new bid.
If there is an item that you wish to bid on, please send your BID along
with the DESCRIPTION OF THE ITEM you are bidding on to the following
email address:
bids(at)matronics.com
Thanks again to Steven and Archie for donating these items to support
the List. And thank you to those that have sent in bids so far!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
=====================================================================
Steven DiNieri (capsteve(at)wzrd.com) has generously offered to donate a
CoolStart RS 700-II to support the Lists this year. This unit retails
for $299. I have put a brochure for the product up on the web server
and you can have a look at it here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/rsflyer.jpg
NEW:
$175 * CoolStart RS 700-II
=====================================================================
Archie (archie97(at)earthlink.net) has generously donated a number of
interesting items to the Support the List cause this year. Each of
them are described below. If you have additional questions, please
email Archie directly at:
archie97(at)earthlink.net
> Upon receipt of the donation amount, items will be shipped.
> No reasonable offer refused!
> Unreasonable ones considered!
NEW:
- * Heated Pitot Tube, 24v. "L" shaped.
- * Aero Instruments #5814-2
- * Flap Motor w/ adjustable stops. 24v.
- * Comm.Aircraft Prods. #D145-00-35-7
USED:
$95 * Narco Transponder AT5-A
- * Astronautics amplifier servo 53-005-214 mod#P1SA
$75 * Narco altitude reporter. to 25k' Model# AR500
- * King KS-505 power supply modulator
$10 * RCA AVQ55 Weather radar antenna MI 591000
=====================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 & 8A Canopy |
> In fitting the canopy skirt junction to the 821 top skin area, under the
> windscreen fairing, it apears that I am going to have to trim the 821 top
> skin so that the canopy can fully be closed. The instructions do not say
to
> do this, but I don't see any other solution. The whole area will be under
> the windscreen fairing that I have yet to build up.
>
> What did you 8 builders do in this area?
> Thanks......Mark
Mark,
Yes, I had to trim the edges a bit to get a good interface with the canopy
skirt. I remember taking a wedge shaped piece off of the edges of the F-821
that wrap around and butt the canopy skirt.
Did you get your canopy skirt to fit? Mine didn't fit worth a darn so I
moved on to other things. I'll be back at it soon though.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net> |
Hello To The Elite,
Yes, I agree with the idea of using the RV3 list instead of the RV List.
It would be great to get RV3 info from people building and flying the 3.
My new 3B project is going great - thanks to the help of many of you.
Tail is done and the fuselage is in the jig being skinned.
If all goes to plan (?), it should be flying by late spring 2000.
Best regards - Rob G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/7/99 9:50:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
racaldwell(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I need to order some teflon or UHMW tape for my flaps. What is the width
required? Should the tape go on the flaps or under the top wing skin
overhang? >>
3" is what I used and I would recommend placing it on the surface you want to
protect (the flap) rather than on the underside of the wing skin as someone
else suggested. Dirt and crunchies will still get on the surfaces and
scratch paint if you do it the other way around.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 QB Panel Fit |
I'm posting this for a friend not on the RV List:
Has anyone had a problem with the fit of the panel in a RV 8 Quickbuild
kit? He says his fuselage is a full 0.5 inches wider than the panel.
His kit number is in the mid 800's.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | G-limit testing for RV |
I have been a follower of Van's testing of his airplanes and always thought
they took a buisness like and solid engineering approach to their
designs--and I still think that--but---major airframe manufactures no longer
use sand bags piled on their wings and apparently neither does Rans of
Kansas--aka--S4,5,6,7,8,9,10,12 (another number game guy). I saw in this
months Experimenter an article on Rans and it is very impressive--especially
his wing load testing device--just like at work at the big C. Maybe Vans
needs something like that --a device for cycling a wing/structure many times
to specific loads rather than a one time to destruction method used on the 8
recently. I am curious what would happen on the 8 (more so than the 4 or 6
because I assume in all the years the 4 has been around someone has cycled
the wings to limits a few times) after a few hundred cycles to 6 g with
twisting forces applied and then take the wing to failure load. Do not
archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | TAPPING SCREW HOLES |
IN THE PROCESS OF MOUNTING MY RADIO STACK TRAYS AND TAPPING THE 26 SCREW
HOLES I NEEDED, I FOUND AN EASIER WAY TO DO IT. INSTEAD OF USING THE
T-HANDLE WITH THE TAP, ( I BROKE OFF TWO TAPS LEARNING THIS, 632'S) I PUT THE
TAP IN MY 18V CORDLESS DRILL, SET THE TORGUE AT THE LOWEST SETTING AND THEN
EFFORTLESSLY SCREWED THE TAP IN AND OUT UNTIL THE HOLE WAS COMPLETE. I DID
NOT BREAK ANY MORE TAPS AND CUT THE TIME IN HALF. IT'S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO
GET A BROKEN TAP OUT AND EASIER TO JUST START WITH A NEW PIECE. YOU WON'T
NEED TO MAKE A NEW PIECE IF YOU USE THIS METHOD.
RV80127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 QB Panel Fit |
I just drilled my top skin to the panel, and it's definately going to
require a spacer on each side where there is gap - I would estimate it to be
less than a quarter inch on each side. Other than the sides, it fits well.
Jerry Carter
80851
RV-8A fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 1:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 QB Panel Fit
>
> I'm posting this for a friend not on the RV List:
>
> Has anyone had a problem with the fit of the panel in a RV 8 Quickbuild
> kit? He says his fuselage is a full 0.5 inches wider than the panel.
> His kit number is in the mid 800's.
>
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
> In a message dated 12/7/99 9:50:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> racaldwell(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> << I need to order some teflon or UHMW tape for my flaps. What is the width
> required? Should the tape go on the flaps or under the top wing skin
> overhang? >>
>
> 3" is what I used and I would recommend placing it on the surface you want to
> protect (the flap) rather than on the underside of the wing skin as someone
> else suggested. Dirt and crunchies will still get on the surfaces and
> scratch paint if you do it the other way around.
>
> Mine has been on the wing underside for 3 1/2 years with nary a scratch in the
> paint of the flap.
Johnn Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
Pat . . . I'm at a loss as to what went wrong?? I metalprep . . . rinse . .
. alodine . . . rinse . . . then I, too, use AKZO. My stuff ends up tought
as nails with a nice even coat. Differeint "priming runs" have the same
Akzo color to them . . . no flaking, no spots, etc.??? At the alodine stage
my parts look a "bright, clean, shiny" aluminum color??? I, too,
Scotchbrite, and even scotchbrite with a soaked pad of metalprep if there is
some ink or something that takes more effort to wash off? Back to your
situation, after alodine my parts are bright metal--not what you've
describe? I'm at a loss. Good luck.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB
-----Original Message-----
From: pat <armstrong(at)coastside.net>
Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 8:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Alodine & Primer
>
>I prepared and painted all of the empenage control surface parts this
>weekend. First let me say that my idea of saving time by doing a lot of
>parts at once didn't work. Unlike previous times, I scuffed the parts with
>an ultra-fine scotchbrite pad during the alumiprep phase. When I alodined
>the parts, they came out dark bronze with some chocolate colored areas. I
>could scratch these darker areas off with my thumbnail. I got the bright
>idea to buf the excess off with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. When I
>applied the Azko epoxy primer, it looked like it wasn't sticking well;
>little craters where the first coat didn't stick to the aluminum. I am
>going to move forward and try to save what I have. I don't plan to strip
>all of those parts.
>
>My questions are: 1) has anyone else had this heavy build-up? 2) what did
>you do about it? 3) What kind of corrosion problems can I expect on parts
>where the alodine doesn't get covered with paint?
>
>I know a lot of builders don't prime the parts, but I plan to park this
>thing outside at the ocean.
>
>Pat Armstrong
>RV6A empenage control surfaces.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Alternate Oil to Cooler Port |
Hi folks,
It's finally time to connect the oil lines to/from the oil cooler.
Figure 7-4 of the Textron Lycoming Operator's Manual shows the 'oil to
cooler' port for the 0-360-A series. This port is between the magnetos
in a tough place to get at. Figure 7-3 shows the alternate 'oil to
cooler' port location.
I'm not familiar with the engine's internal oil plumbing. Will I get
the same cooling effect by using the alternate 'oil to cooler'
location? Is there a significant difference between the effectiveness
of the primary and alternate 'oil to cooler' ports?
I appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
Clay Smith, RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | HELP! Opinions NEEDED! |
I was one of the first to complain about getting insurance for my rocket
project. I have obtained 50 hours of tailwheel time and now have a quote
coming. I will supply details once I know. Then maybe we can compare what
the rates are for an RV-4 vs Rocket.
Yes Tom, please let us know how it goes. I am building a 6A. I have all
tricyle time. Hey the F4G didn't have a tailwheel did it? I was able to
get insurance for my first flight in my airplane which is nice. Will they
do that for the Rocket?
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Don,
I found that the 603 side skins did support the canopy adequately during
this process. I joggled the front skin and it looked good. As I prepared
to drill the canopy, though, I found that the joggle wasn't deep enough. I
ended up cutting a notch for the canopy and I'm glad I did. The notch
provided complete clearance for the canopy and prevented stress at that
forward hole in the plexi that causes so many canopies to crack. I agree
that the notch doesn't look as nice as the joggle, but I resolve to avoid
looking closely at it while flying that machine (if that day ever comes.)
Steve Soule, RV-6A
Huntington, Vermont
Waiting on an order from Van's
-----Original Message-----I have my F671 fwd top skin
clecoed on to overlap the fuselage skins.
Have the C602 canopy fwd skin clecoed to the weldment across
the top &
into the round tubing. I need to drill the "lower row" of
rivets into the
f616.
Can't see how I will allow the plexi to fit on top of this
skin, yet duck
inside it on the sides. If I nail the lower row of rivets, I
will not be
able to "joggle" for the glass later. I saw one project with
notches cut
but would rather joggle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I split the canopy before drilling holes in it anywhere. I wanted the
process of drilling holes in the plexi to be very last, I mean extremely
very last, thing that I did. You'll find that the entire canopy relaxes
quite a bit when you split it. You will be relieved to find that it
actually fits better after you split it. At least that was my experience.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
The instructions I was reading last nite, indicated some
drill the glass
as a hole & some split it & then drill to the roll bar &
back frame.
Which way do you recommend? Also what caused your canopy to
crack?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
Pat,
I also am two blocks from the ocean and used the same system as you. After
alodining, I wiped the part dry with a clean cotton cloth. This removed the
loose alodine and left a light golden surface. After drying an hour or so,
I sprayed with AZKO epoxy primer, both inside & outside surfaces. I have
had no problems with the epoxy not sticking. The opposite is true, it is
very scratch resistant. Dropped the canopy frame on the side of the
fuselage and the steel tube didn't even scratch it off. I am now finishing
painting the top coat with PPG Concept paint. Let me tell you wet sanding
the primer with 400 grit will wear you out. I never realized how strenuous
painting would be but I am just whipped.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 N136RC Going to airport Saturday
Melbourne, FL
>From: pat <armstrong(at)coastside.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Alodine & Primer
>Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 19:19:11 -0800
>
>
>I prepared and painted all of the empenage control surface parts this
>weekend. First let me say that my idea of saving time by doing a lot of
>parts at once didn't work. Unlike previous times, I scuffed the parts with
>an ultra-fine scotchbrite pad during the alumiprep phase. When I alodined
>the parts, they came out dark bronze with some chocolate colored areas. I
>could scratch these darker areas off with my thumbnail. I got the bright
>idea to buf the excess off with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. When I
>applied the Azko epoxy primer, it looked like it wasn't sticking well;
>little craters where the first coat didn't stick to the aluminum. I am
>going to move forward and try to save what I have. I don't plan to strip
>all of those parts.
>
>My questions are: 1) has anyone else had this heavy build-up? 2) what did
>you do about it? 3) What kind of corrosion problems can I expect on parts
>where the alodine doesn't get covered with paint?
>
>I know a lot of builders don't prime the parts, but I plan to park this
>thing outside at the ocean.
>
>Pat Armstrong
>RV6A empenage control surfaces.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Fuel Tank Baffle |
guys
i let my tanks cure on the wing, make sure you don't get proseal on the spar
so you will be able to remove the tanks at a later date. once the tank is
screwed in place on the spar, the tank can be clamped on both sides with
2x4's at the seam ( kinda make a tank sandwich ), the spar helps the baffle
stay rigid, 2x4's clamp the skin to the baffle horizontally. hard to explain
by typing here, but 2 tanks built - 0 - leaks :-)
if more info is needed , contact me. i can draw it out and fax it to you.
scott
tampa
rollover bar 6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G-limit testing for RV |
JR,
I think that Van's test approach on testing of his wing design is adequate and
there is no need for elaborate test setup/equipment in determining the ultimate
loading of the wing design. If the test objective is to determine the fatigue/durability
of the design then a more elaborate and expensive system as described
by you would be needed.
There is a 50% margin (9 g's ultimate and 6 g's limit) on the design and this would
be enough to cover the number of load cycles (6 g's) for the life span of
the airframe under normal usage.
I used to be a Structural Test Engineer for the General Dynamics working on both
Static and Durability testing of the F-16 airframe and other large airframe
structural components. My view on Van's testing method is that it serves the
purpose and is a low cost method.
T.Nguyen, P.E
Analysis Engineering Manager
>>> 12/08/99 03:00AM >>>
I have been a follower of Van's testing of his airplanes and always thought
they took a buisness like and solid engineering approach to their
designs--and I still think that--but---major airframe manufactures no longer
use sand bags piled on their wings and apparently neither does Rans of
Kansas--aka--S4,5,6,7,8,9,10,12 (another number game guy). I saw in this
months Experimenter an article on Rans and it is very impressive--especially
his wing load testing device--just like at work at the big C. Maybe Vans
needs something like that --a device for cycling a wing/structure many times
to specific loads rather than a one time to destruction method used on the 8
recently. I am curious what would happen on the 8 (more so than the 4 or 6
because I assume in all the years the 4 has been around someone has cycled
the wings to limits a few times) after a few hundred cycles to 6 g with
twisting forces applied and then take the wing to failure load. Do not
archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rambunctious Blind Riveting |
Anyone see a need for me to drill out the blind rivets (LP4-3) I used
to attach the outter two ribs to the main spar and replace them with
the solid rivets called for by the plans?
I got carried away (read, failed to plan my work) when attaching the
leading edge. Last night going back over everything prepping to skin I
noticed my mistake.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PR" <perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: The RV3 List. |
Bob,
Do you have the wings done or are you building the fuselage while waiting on
the wing kit or QB wings? I wasn't sure you could do the fuselage without
the wings being done because of the center section/wing mating.
I have the RV-3B tail kit but can't seem to get the preview plans from
Van's. How about you?
Your thoughts please!
Perry Rhoads
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Greener <rgreener(at)micron.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 12:34 AM
Subject: RV3-List: The RV3 List.
>--> RV3-List message posted by: "Robert Greener"
>
>Hello To The Elite,
>
>Yes, I agree with the idea of using the RV3 list instead of the RV List.
>
>It would be great to get RV3 info from people building and flying the 3.
>
>My new 3B project is going great - thanks to the help of many of you.
>
>Tail is done and the fuselage is in the jig being skinned.
>
>If all goes to plan (?), it should be flying by late spring 2000.
>
>
>Best regards - Rob G.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com |
| Subject: | Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
Listers,
I have modified my c-frame dimpler to work without a hammer. I use two
small air cylinders and a breath-operated actuator valve. This set-up allows me
to keep both hands on the metal while I dimple. The resulting dimples are
uniform since they are hit with exactly the same force every time. I have used
this on my ailerons, flaps and wing skins and have had great results. It takes
one quarter of the time to dimple this way versus the hammer. If there is enough
interest I will make some extra assemblies. There is no permanent modifications
to the c-frame as this unit bolts on to the arm. It has saved me time and much
aggravation. No more holding the metal back with my elbow while I hold the rod
down and try to grab my hammer. If interested please contact me off-list.
Steve Nichols
RV-4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-3 Preview Plans |
In a message dated 12/8/99 8:45:56 AM Mountain Standard Time,
perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net writes:
> I have the RV-3B tail kit but can't seem to get the preview plans from
> Van's. How about you?
I ordered and received a RV-3B tail kit and preview plans from Van's this
past April. My kit number is 11339. I just looked at it, however, and the
"Wing" section describes the old (RV-3A) wing. Maybe they are holding any new
preview plans for the new-style wing description...
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
Ft. Collins, Colorado
N99RV RV-3 For Sale
#11339 barely underway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 & 8A Canopy |
>Lister's,
>
>In fitting the canopy skirt junction to the 821 top skin area, under the
>windscreen fairing, it apears that I am going to have to trim the 821 top
>skin so that the canopy can fully be closed. The instructions do not say to
>do this, but I don't see any other solution. The whole area will be under
>the windscreen fairing that I have yet to build up.
>
>What did you 8 builders do in this area?
>
>Thanks......Mark
Mark,
I trimmed the 821 flush with the skirt, actually with about 1/8" gap. The
fiberglass/carbon fairing moulding was built up and laid over the skirt in
this area so the skirt tucks neatly under it in the closed position. I used
about three layers of masking tape, with autobody wax as a release agent on
the skirt as I laid the glass over this area. It did take quite a lot of
layups, but it came out beautifully and presents a very smooth surface to
airflow. I HIGHLY recommend the use of at least one layer of carbon fiber
to stiffen up the overhanging flange of the fairing. Mine is so rigid and
tough you'd think it was made of metal.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
inspection Saturday, 11:00AM!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michial Thompson <michialt(at)uspilots.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Preview Plans |
The preview plans are just that, they are to give you an idea of what is
involved during the building process.
They go out of they way to make it clear that they are not for building
purposes. With each kit you buy you will get the correct plans and
instructions for building, and should not need to refer to the preview
plans for anything more than maybe the jigs
>--> RV3-List message posted by: WoodardRod(at)aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/8/99 8:45:56 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net writes:
>
>> I have the RV-3B tail kit but can't seem to get the preview plans from
>> Van's. How about you?
>
>I ordered and received a RV-3B tail kit and preview plans from Van's this
>past April. My kit number is 11339. I just looked at it, however, and the
>"Wing" section describes the old (RV-3A) wing. Maybe they are holding any
new
>preview plans for the new-style wing description...
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rod Woodard
>Ft. Collins, Colorado
>N99RV RV-3 For Sale
>#11339 barely underway
>
>
Michial M. Thompson
System Administrator/Programmer
US Pilots Network
http://www.uspilots.net/
817-274-9843
Come Join the fun @ uspilots.net!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | high temp silicone sealants and carb airbox sealants |
FWIW, most ( I said most, not all) silicone caulks and sealants lose their
adhesiveness when exposed to fuel or oil for very long. You should be very
careful where you use them. Personally I don't use them in front of the
firewall anymore. Seen too much of it fall off.
IMHO, you should never, ever use silicone sealants around the carb airbox on
an RV. The fuel WILL cause it to soften and peel. If a piece gets sucked
up and stuck in the throat of your carb it could be very inconvenient at
best. Yes, I know what your thinking... the filter will stop it. Maybe,
maybe not. I have seen many airboxes. Often the filter is trimmed around
various protrusions on the bottom of the carb. Then those trimmed areas are
filled with silicone. Maybe safe, maybe not. It depends on the setup.
Just don't be fooled into thinking that the silicone will stay put forever
because it won't. Plan acordingly.
For similar reasons I don't use silicone as an engine gasket maker. Not
good to find pieces of the stuff inside engines, carbs, etc. Gaskets are
cheap and I've never heard of a piece of a properly installed gasket
clogging an oil gallery.
I don't use teflon tape either for similar reasons. I am amazed at how many
people put this crap in places it is not meant to be. I've seen it on flare
fittings, hose barbs (yikes, what were they thinking?) and countless other
places it's not supposed to go. Yes, you can safely use it on pipe threads,
if you wrap it properly. However, if you use it on pipe threads though be
sure to clean off all the bits when you disassemble the fittings so you
don't lose a strip of it into your fuel system. Personally, I use small
amounts of fuel lube or similar on pipe threads and nothing on the other
types unless specified by the manufacturer. Some types need a drop of oil
or other lubricant prior to assembly.
My current project will have everything firewall forward, including carb
airbox and filter, sealed with ProSeal as needed. I would consider putting
any firebarrier caulk or similar substances directly behind the firewall
where the Proseal will protect it from the fuel and oil. If you do have a
fire it won't matter if it burns up the ProSeal first anyway. Besides by
the time it burns through the proseal it will soon be burning through the
aluminum floorboards. Perhaps a nicely fitted stainless firewall with a
stainless exhaust shield mounted 1/4" under the floorboards, on the outside,
would be good. Would keep some exhaust heat off your feet too!
Vince in Indiana
Flame me if you want..I've got my fire barrier ready!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rambunctious Blind Riveting |
Mike,
I would leave those LP4-3 rivets alone. If you notice on the plan, the four inboad
ribs attach to the main spar also use the LP4-3 rivets since there are no
room to buck these rivets.
Beside, the shear load at the outboard ribs are way lower than those in the inboard
section.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A Engine and Instrument panel installation
N747TN reserved.
>>> Mike Thompson 12/08/99 09:27AM >>>
Anyone see a need for me to drill out the blind rivets (LP4-3) I used
to attach the outter two ribs to the main spar and replace them with
the solid rivets called for by the plans?
I got carried away (read, failed to plan my work) when attaching the
leading edge. Last night going back over everything prepping to skin I
noticed my mistake.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Preview Plans |
In a message dated 12/8/99 9:48:52 AM Mountain Standard Time,
michialt(at)uspilots.net writes:
> The preview plans are just that, they are to give you an idea of what is
> involved during the building process.
>
> They go out of they way to make it clear that they are not for building
> purposes. With each kit you buy you will get the correct plans and
> instructions for building, and should not need to refer to the preview
> plans for anything more than maybe the jigs
Am I missing something? Are you sure you don't work for Microsoft... All the
information you gave is technically accurate, but hardly relevant to the
discussion at hand. Nobody said they were planning on building an airplane
off the preview plans. Get off your soapbox.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port |
Hi Clay:
There will be no difference in efficiency using the alternate source. The
fact that you have asked this question shows the importance of having the
operator's manual for your engine. Some builders have inadvertly hooked
their cooler up to two ports that are oil to cooler. Anyone that has an
interest in how this can be done and that has a fax I would be happy to fax
the info.
As we have seen there has been a lot of posts on hoses lately and would
just like to add some of my thoughts to the subject. There are several
makes of hoses out there and all of them have different cross sections
requiring the correct fitting for the hose you are using.
In selecting the hose make sure that it has the proper specs for what you
are using it for, such as temp and pressure. If you are assembling them
yourself make absolutely certain that you know how, if not get someone that
does to supervise and finally pressure test . Pressure for testing should
be to the rating of the hose rather than some other figure usually in the
1000-2000 pound range depending on the type of hose.
The preferred hose in a lot of certified shops is Aeroquip 193. The make
and assembly of your fuel and oil lines is one of the most critical parts
of the engine installation. A fitting coming of means an engine failure and
a extreme risk of fire.
I could tell you a couple of horror stories about hoses but won't get into
that here.
The bottom line I think is unless you have the skills and access to the
proper testing equipment it is best left up to the professionals.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----------
> From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port
> Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:38 AM
>
>
> Hi folks,
> It's finally time to connect the oil lines to/from the oil cooler.
> Figure 7-4 of the Textron Lycoming Operator's Manual shows the 'oil to
> cooler' port for the 0-360-A series. This port is between the magnetos
> in a tough place to get at. Figure 7-3 shows the alternate 'oil to
> cooler' port location.
>
> I'm not familiar with the engine's internal oil plumbing. Will I get
> the same cooling effect by using the alternate 'oil to cooler'
> location? Is there a significant difference between the effectiveness
> of the primary and alternate 'oil to cooler' ports?
>
> I appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michial Thompson <michialt(at)uspilots.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Preview Plans |
Guess there are dicks that do not read the entire message posted to the
mail list, and they exist EVERYWHERE!
>--> RV3-List message posted by: WoodardRod(at)aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/8/99 9:48:52 AM Mountain Standard Time,
>michialt(at)uspilots.net writes:
>
>> The preview plans are just that, they are to give you an idea of what is
>> involved during the building process.
>>
>> They go out of they way to make it clear that they are not for building
>> purposes. With each kit you buy you will get the correct plans and
>> instructions for building, and should not need to refer to the preview
>> plans for anything more than maybe the jigs
>
>Am I missing something? Are you sure you don't work for Microsoft... All the
>information you gave is technically accurate, but hardly relevant to the
>discussion at hand. Nobody said they were planning on building an airplane
>off the preview plans. Get off your soapbox.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rod Woodard
>
>
Michial M. Thompson
System Administrator/Programmer/Owner
US Pilots Network
http://www.uspilots.net/
817-274-1590
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
I refer to message posted by Michial thompson on 08/12/99 at 19.19, I
would like to suggest that people subscribing to the list are banned in case
they prefer to use this trype of language in their messages.
Please reply with your opinion to email address of list.
marcel de ruiter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port |
Thanks Eustace. I believe I'll go with the alternate 'oil to cooler' port.
Once again, I'm amazed at the thought that I'm getting an answer to my question
w/in 8 hours from a person I've never met on the other end of the continent -
free. This list is just amazing. My cost, if you can call it that, is to help
somebody else on the list. So I'm constantly looking at other's questions to
see if I can help.
I sincerely appreciate your response and assistance.
Clay Smith, RV-4
Indiana
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
> Hi Clay:
>
> There will be no difference in efficiency using the alternate source. The
> fact that you have asked this question shows the importance of having the
> operator's manual for your engine. Some builders have inadvertly hooked
> their cooler up to two ports that are oil to cooler. ..... Eustace Bowhay
> Blind Bay, B.C.
>
> ----------
> > From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
> > To: RV List
> > Subject: RV-List: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port
> > Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:38 AM
> >
> >
> > Hi folks,
> > It's finally time to connect the oil lines to/from the oil cooler.
> > Figure 7-4 of the Textron Lycoming Operator's Manual shows the 'oil to
> > cooler' port for the 0-360-A series. This port is between the magnetos
> > in a tough place to get at. Figure 7-3 shows the alternate 'oil to
> > cooler' port location.
> >
> > I'm not familiar with the engine's internal oil plumbing. Will I get
> > the same cooling effect by using the alternate 'oil to cooler'
> > location? Is there a significant difference between the effectiveness
> > of the primary and alternate 'oil to cooler' ports?
> >
> > I appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
> >
> > Clay Smith, RV-4
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FLAMING, was RE: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Preview Plans |
Gentlemen-
Let's please keep in mind that this list is provided by Matt for exchanging
information about RV-3's and not for flaming each other, and most of all
let's stop this so that Matt won't abolishing this privilege to all of us
who cherish the one-seater, the RV-3. Additionally, please remember that
your posts do go to over 800+ listers on the regular RV-list, who probably
don't want to hear personal flames.
Not trying to be a "RV3-list mail list cop" here, but I was the one who
personally asked Matt to set up this list, so let call it bygones and get
back to the topics at hand and enjoy each others knowledge, experiences, and
ideas.
Best regards,
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michial Thompson
> Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 12:07 PM
> To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 Preview Plans
>
>
> Guess there are dicks that do not read the entire message posted to the
> mail list, and they exist EVERYWHERE!
>
>
> >--> RV3-List message posted by: WoodardRod(at)aol.com
> >
> >In a message dated 12/8/99 9:48:52 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> >michialt(at)uspilots.net writes:
> >
> >> The preview plans are just that, they are to give you an idea
> of what is
> >> involved during the building process.
> >>
> >> They go out of they way to make it clear that they are not
> for building
> >> purposes. With each kit you buy you will get the correct plans and
> >> instructions for building, and should not need to refer to the preview
> >> plans for anything more than maybe the jigs
> >
> >Am I missing something? Are you sure you don't work for
> Microsoft... All the
> >information you gave is technically accurate, but hardly relevant to the
> >discussion at hand. Nobody said they were planning on building
> an airplane
> >off the preview plans. Get off your soapbox.
> >
> >Best regards,
> >
> >Rod Woodard
> >
> >
> Michial M. Thompson
> System Administrator/Programmer/Owner
> US Pilots Network
> http://www.uspilots.net/
> 817-274-1590
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
Pat,
The parts got dark because the alodine was left in contact with the parts too long.
When this happens the paint does not stick as well. The best thing to do
in this case is scuff everything down again and re-prime it. The color should
come out to a light bronze / gold color and only takes about 1-2 minutes depending
on dilution of the alodine. Alodine itself is a corrosion barrier and
if not painted will still help against corrosion. My question back is why are
you alodining and priming as they are both the same thing??
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
In a message dated Tue, 7 Dec 1999 10:54:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, pat
writes:
>
> I prepared and painted all of the empenage control surface parts this
> weekend. First let me say that my idea of saving time by doing a lot of
> parts at once didn't work. Unlike previous times, I scuffed the parts with
> an ultra-fine scotchbrite pad during the alumiprep phase. When I alodined
> the parts, they came out dark bronze with some chocolate colored areas. I
> could scratch these darker areas off with my thumbnail. I got the bright
> idea to buf the excess off with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. When I
> applied the Azko epoxy primer, it looked like it wasn't sticking well;
> little craters where the first coat didn't stick to the aluminum. I am
> going to move forward and try to save what I have. I don't plan to strip
> all of those parts.
>
> My questions are: 1) has anyone else had this heavy build-up? 2) what did
> you do about it? 3) What kind of corrosion problems can I expect on parts
> where the alodine doesn't get covered with paint?
>
> I know a lot of builders don't prime the parts, but I plan to park this
> thing outside at the ocean.
>
> Pat Armstrong
> RV6A empenage control surfaces.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
On the holes for the aileron and flap, is it necessary to roll a flange on them?
hanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
Your problem is the alodine was allowed to dry on the part. Don't do that!
The alodine should be in contact with the aluminum for about 3 minutes. If
applying with a brush or similar, reapply as necessary to keep it wet. Then
wash it off with cold water and set the part aside to dry. The Alodine
conversion coating will impart a light gold appearance.
Best Regards,
Bob
> When I
> alodined the parts, they came out dark bronze with some chocolate colored
> areas. I could scratch these darker areas off with my thumbnail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightning Holes |
Dave,
IMO the easiest, quickest, nicest looking way to finish those holes
is to hit it with a 2" Scotchbrite wheel on your die grinder. If you
don't have this set up, I highly recommend it. Scotchbrite wheels come
from Avery and for $20 you can get a real nice mini die grinder from
Home Depot. (best $20 I ever spent on a tool)
Hope it helps...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Finish Kit on order
>
> On the holes for the aileron and flap, is it necessary to roll a flange
on them?
>
>hanks, Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightning Holes |
Nope, just debur and leave them flat.
Scott Kuebler
RV-6a (wings)
>>> 12/08 4:13 PM >>>
On the holes for the aileron and flap, is it necessary to roll a flange on them?
hanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
Pat
I too ran into this problem and found following
I am using dupond 225/226.
It appears that the dupond stuff and equivalent is ment to be brushed on
in a thin coat. If you dunk parts in a fresh ( as in right out of the
new bottle) solution of alodine the parts only need to be in there for a
very short time.
Till the parts are golden then rinse. If you leave them in too long you
will
A: get the dark coat, and a oxide kinda layer and
B: your alodine becomes useless very quick. ( I assume you re-use the
alodine)
I now have a small spray bottle and wet the surfaces. Alodine last
longer and I have better control.
Guess what, that's what the spec sheet said to do in the first place.
I am looking for the iridite powder locally to see if self mixed batches
are less 'agressive'
Hope my ramblings help.
Gert
pat wrote:
>
>
> I prepared and painted all of the empenage control surface parts this
> weekend. First let me say that my idea of saving time by doing a lot of
> parts at once didn't work. Unlike previous times, I scuffed the parts with
> an ultra-fine scotchbrite pad during the alumiprep phase. When I alodined
> the parts, they came out dark bronze with some chocolate colored areas. I
> could scratch these darker areas off with my thumbnail. I got the bright
> idea to buf the excess off with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. When I
> applied the Azko epoxy primer, it looked like it wasn't sticking well;
> little craters where the first coat didn't stick to the aluminum. I am
> going to move forward and try to save what I have. I don't plan to strip
> all of those parts.
>
> My questions are: 1) has anyone else had this heavy build-up? 2) what did
> you do about it? 3) What kind of corrosion problems can I expect on parts
> where the alodine doesn't get covered with paint?
>
> I know a lot of builders don't prime the parts, but I plan to park this
> thing outside at the ocean.
>
> Pat Armstrong
> RV6A empenage control surfaces.
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Alodine & Primer |
I have had this darker color (excess of alodine), and zinc chromate has
never seemed to mind the excess alodine on any of my smaller parts. Never
saw any difference in the adhesion of the chromate. Has anyone alodining
and using zinc chromate ever had any problems as you speak of? Curious.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45
> The parts got dark because the alodine was left in contact with
> the parts too long. When this happens the paint does not stick
> as well. The best thing to do in this case is scuff everything
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | fuel injected engines |
Listers--The discussion about carburetor ice got me wondering--is there a
reason builders are not going with the injected 0-320? Perhaps cost? Or
availability? I notice Van's doesn't offer it. --LeRoy Johnston, Columbus,
OH, RV-6 empennage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elrod3794(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: QB shipping and delivery |
BOB
I PAID AN EXTRA 80.00 FOR ROADWAY TO DELIVER IT TO MY HOME FROM,
BIRMINGHAM TERMINAL TO PLEASANT GROVE ABOUT 10 MILES. I HAD TO BE THERE
TO HELP UNLOAD JUST CALL THE TERMINAL AND MAKE ARRANGEMENT.
GOOD LUCK
MIKE ELROD RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: QB shipping and delivery |
Bob,
We use an old boat trailer decked with wood, but a car trailer should
work fine. The guys at Roadway will load it on your trailer for you. Make
sure it balances the trailer and you strap it down well. We put the fuselage
box slightly to one side so the wing box can be put upright beside it and
then everything is strapped down. Check the outside of both boxes for
possible damage and make sure any is noted before you leave the yard. Have
fun!
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
Steve
How many 'hits' does it take to form one dimple ??
I have an air cylinder on my c-frame for a few years now. It's indeed
great, I have a foot switch on it. It takes about 2-3 whacks to fully
set a dimple in the heavier sheets.
I just love to have both hands free, just don't get yer fingers in the
way ;-)
Gert
steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> I have modified my c-frame dimpler to work without a hammer. I use two
> small air cylinders and a breath-operated actuator valve. This set-up allows
me
> to keep both hands on the metal while I dimple. The resulting dimples are
> uniform since they are hit with exactly the same force every time. I have used
> this on my ailerons, flaps and wing skins and have had great results. It takes
> one quarter of the time to dimple this way versus the hammer. If there is enough
> interest I will make some extra assemblies. There is no permanent modifications
> to the c-frame as this unit bolts on to the arm. It has saved me time and much
> aggravation. No more holding the metal back with my elbow while I hold the rod
> down and try to grab my hammer. If interested please contact me off-list.
>
> Steve Nichols
> RV-4 Wings
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Fuel Tank Baffle |
>
> If you look at the rear baffle, the rivets that attach it to the tank
> skin are pretty close to the radius, with most of the width of the
> flange aft of the rivet. That long width of flange will have a bunch
> of Proseal under it, which will end to force the skin away from the
> flange. So, if you don't do anything, the Proseal will cure with the
> skin forced outwards, and the distance between the top and bottom
> edges of the tank skin will be quite a bit more than the distance
> from the top to bottom of the main spar.
Kevin,
Thanks for your insight, and your method of clamping. I'm not really happy
with an interference fit between the spar and tank, so your method of
clamping between the Saran Wrap covered wood pieces looks good to me. Looks
like I will end up with a lot more C clamps than I have now.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel injected engines |
My last RV-6 I used an IO-320-B1A it worked very well, but the reason you
don't see very many used is because you have to use type 2 engine mounts,
the sump and intake pipes have to be changed. The IO engine is out of a
twin Comanche and the servo is located on the back which make it impossible
to use without modification. I am using one in my present RV project, but
it has been converted to a carburetor. They are really good engines and you
seem to have more room on the bottom of the engine for the alternator. Just
my 2 cents worth.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB- Riveting top aft skin
----- Original Message -----
From: <JhnstnIII(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 6:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel injected engines
>
> Listers--The discussion about carburetor ice got me wondering--is there a
> reason builders are not going with the injected 0-320? Perhaps cost? Or
> availability? I notice Van's doesn't offer it. --LeRoy Johnston,
Columbus,
> OH, RV-6 empennage.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | glass tips on the tail |
I am using SM type foam to seal the front of the rudder and elevator glass
tips at the counterweight but I am wondering what other builders did or are
going to do with the HS tip's and the VS tip? Manual does not mention them
but they look kind of awkward being left open.
Thanks in advance
Rob Baxter RV-8
Sarnia Ontario
waiting for wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Team Rocket New Website |
Hey Listers,
Just in time for the holidays, Team Rocket has established it's new website.
Please take a look around. Alot of things have changed and we are adding
stuff all the time. Our catalog should be easier to download now, plus we
will be updating to a shopping cart environment for our catalog very soon.
Please come by and visit our new site at
www.teamrocketaircraft.com
Thanks!
Scott Brown
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Caps Shipping |
Group
Started shipping caps today below are the list that are done and or on
their way my wife does the shipping so she may not have got it out today but
she is working on it but these are done so you can expect it in a few days:
Joe Czachorowski
Larry Bowen
Rick McBride
Randy Lervold
Joe Waltz
Jack Blomgren
Jerry Carter
David Stafford
Jeff Farrar
Wes Hayes
Gary Zilik
Doug Shenk
Pat Hatch
Al Mojzisik
Dave Burnham
Steve Hammer
Jim Pickrell
Jerry Calvert
Marty Sailer
Walt Shipley
Gary Baker
Gray Palinkis
Ed Ward
Bob Japundza
Randy Griffin
Harry Crosby
Jack Abell
Shelby Smith
John Lane
Alex Strickland
Chris Good
Laird Owens
Frank Melder
Davis Grover
Richard Crosley
Marty Emrath
Allen Kritzman
Dave Fletcher
Chuck Rowbotham
David Ahrens
Steve McInnis
Gary Fesenbek
Todd Magargle
Steve Dinieri
Paul Clohan
Rick Jory
John Wigmore
Ross B
I Still have about 10 more sets to do but closing fast
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: glass tips on the tail |
I taped a piece of foam to the outside end of the cap, and layed up glass
from the inside. Then filled with microballoons and sanded.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Baxter <robbax(at)sympatico.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 6:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: glass tips on the tail
>
>I am using SM type foam to seal the front of the rudder and elevator glass
>tips at the counterweight but I am wondering what other builders did or are
>going to do with the HS tip's and the VS tip? Manual does not mention them
>but they look kind of awkward being left open.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Rob Baxter RV-8
>Sarnia Ontario
>waiting for wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightning Holes |
--- DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> On the holes for the aileron and flap, is it
> necessary to roll a flange on them?
>
> hanks, Dave
Dave:
It is not necessary to roll the flange. It will not
hurt if you roll the flange there but will add to the
length of time it takes to build the airplane.
IMHO, it is worth adding all the OPTIONAL lightening
holes that Van's list. Every pound that you can take
out of the airplane is a pound that you do not need to
pay to haul around or is an extra pound of PAYLOAD
that you can haul.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp silicone sealants and carb airbox sealants |
IMHO, you should never, ever use silicone sealants around the carb
airbox on
> an RV. The fuel WILL cause it to soften and peel. If a piece gets sucked
> up and stuck in the throat of your carb it could be very inconvenient at
> best. Yes, I know what your thinking... the filter will stop it. Maybe,
> maybe not.
----- Original Message -----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 8:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: high temp silicone sealants and carb airbox sealants
Also be aware of using the scrub pads in the muffler for more carb heat for
the same reason.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
Pat, I did much the same thing when preparing my empennage for primer. I
found out that although the epoxy primer adhered well to the alodined
surface, the dark brown alodine did not stick to the alumipreped surface. I
had separation of the primer/alodine in several places. The heavier coating
of alodine appears to be brittle and cracks away from the surface under
stress. My advice, if you still have parts and not an assembled structure,
would be to burn all the alodine off with alumiprep and only go to a light
straw yellow color with the alodine. I found that in the summer Florida sun
heat, about 20 seconds in the alodine was enough. Cooler temps will slow down
the reaction. Sorry, Andy Johnson, -8 wing (left)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Corrosion pervention under rivets |
Jeff:
No flame here. I use your q-tip technique too, but not on rivets. I do
cover edges that didn't get primed (for whatever reason). Alclad skins
probably don't need primer under rivets so much, but they do need primer on
the edges where there is no alclad. Just another thought.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Sealing fuel tanks this weekend.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Orear <jorear(at)mari.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Corrosion pervention under rivets
>
> Hi Bill:
>
> I'll chime in here, probably get flamed but what the heck. I was
concerned
> about this too. After I deburred, dimpled, "countersunk" the dimple via
the
> deburring tool trick, I took a q-tip and dipped it in primer, and then
> applied a dab of primer in each hole. This way I avoided having to prime
> the entire outside of the skin. (priming is a real pain for me as I have
to
> take everything out to my occupied garage and hassle with moving things
> around each time I prime). It may sound like it is time-consuming, but it
> doesn't take that much time at all. Is it necessary? Maybe, maybe not.
> Does it make *me* feel a bit better about preventing corrosion? Yeah,
sort
> of. The time involved in doing it is so small that if it is *not* really
> necessary, then I haven't wasted too much time with it.
>
> If you decide to prime under those rivets, the above technique works real
> slick. Once the q-tip gets saturated with primer, It will take on the
shape
> of the dimple and apply the primer real nice. Don't get the Q-tip too
> soaked, or else you will get runs. Hope this helps.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A 25171
> Second wing spar
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
> To: Jorear
> Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 7:03 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Corrosion pervention under rivets
>
>
> >
> >
> >I was just wandering how important it is to make sure there is primer
under
> >the rivets. When you drill, dimple, and especially when you counter sink
> you
> >lose the Alclad surface. I notice some people use the deberring tool on
the
> >dimples so the rivet fits a little tighter. Which will remove the primer?
> >Will these area become a problem when the topcoat paint cracks around the
> >rivet after a period of time?
> >
> >Also on the interior do you prime the rivets or is it OK to leave them as
> is.
> >When building I primed all the parts and then assembled so the rivets are
> >bare.
> >
> >Thank Bill
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
affordaplane(at)listbot.com
Hello,
I have a costom made gas tank 12 gal.... 12'' deep 14''
long...22'' wide will sell for $200 its worth $350 in Aircraft Spruce and
Wicks Aircraft the hole tank is there the tank is ready to go. the tank is
$200 o.b.o.
Sincerly,
Erik H Baxter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: G-limit testing for RV |
>RV-List message posted by: "Bill Shook"
>Also as a former marine I would like to thank the inventor of sandbags, but
as far as constantly questioning the safety testing of RV's and any
homebuilt kit goes....I'm all for it. That failure of the Rv-8 wing was not
just a shit happens in my mind. It was a failure of a FACTORY BUILT
demonstration plane with a FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE at the stick with 10,000
hours and 1300 in RV's. If it were some yahoo in the middle of nowhere
pulling full deflection aerobatics while pushing Vne I would just shrug it
off...but the report I read on Van's website says they were straight and
level at the time of wing departure and I can tell you that scares the hell
out of me. I would not likely be in my quandry over whether to build the
RV-8 or RV-4 if it were not for that failure. I fully intend to use the
plane I build for upside down, rightside up wrongside sideways, type
maneuvers when the mood strikes me and I'm really struggling with this
decision because I want the cruise range and room of the -8 but I don't want
to sweat every time I pull vertical. I find it strange that the FAA can
narrow it down to which seam burst when an aircraft is spread over 20 square
miles of ocean, but Vans doesn't know what or why that wing gave up the
ghost (2 actually). Of course, I do see the possibility that the FAA in
their infinite wisdom (don't get me started) might be guessing on some of
their 'conclusions'.
Bill<
Bill, please see the FAA findings of fact for the N58RV accident under
LAX98FA171 on their website www.ntsb.gov/Aviation/LAX98A171.htm and draw your
own conclusions as to the cause of the wing failure. Andy Johnson, RV-8
wings, no concerns about the strength or design of the aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
I have modified my c-frame dimpler to work without a hammer. I
> use two
> small air cylinders and a breath-operated actuator valve. This
> set-up allows me
> to keep both hands on the metal while I dimple. The resulting
> dimples are
> uniform since they are hit with exactly the same force every time. I
> have used
> this on my ailerons, flaps and wing skins and have had great
> results. It takes
> one quarter of the time to dimple this way versus the hammer. If
> there is enough
> interest I will make some extra assemblies. There is no permanent
> modifications
> to the c-frame as this unit bolts on to the arm. It has saved me
> time and much
> aggravation. No more holding the metal back with my elbow while I
> hold the rod
> down and try to grab my hammer. If interested please contact me
> off-list.
>
> Steve Nichols
> RV-4 Wings
>
Steve,
this sounds like a great idea, but do the air cyl. hammer the dies
together or are they just squeezing like a squeezer.
If they are just squeezing then you dimples may be consistent but they
are not likely dimpled fully. It takes a lot of "squeezing" force to
make a nice crisp dimple.
The C frame tool is not nearly stiff enough to handle the amount of
squeeze force that is required.
After completing a dimple... is their a small ring mark on the skin that
is the same diameter as that of the dimple die?
If not then the dies are not seating and fully seating the dimple.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: G-limit testing for RV |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Also as a former marine I would like to thank the inventor of
> sandbags, but
> as far as constantly questioning the safety testing of RV's and any
> homebuilt kit goes....I'm all for it. That failure of the Rv-8 wing
> was not
> just a shit happens in my mind. It was a failure of a FACTORY BUILT
> demonstration plane with a FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE at the stick with
> 10,000
> hours and 1300 in RV's.
Bill,
This is in no way meant as a flame towards you but I wanted to point out
a problem with discussions on this subject.
I agree that it was a factory built prototype... but what evidence is
available that lets us say that a 10,000 hour pilot was flying it?
Their where two sticks in the airplane, and a pilot sitting behind each
one.
So how do we know who was flying?
You mentioned the wing came off with the airplane in straight and level
flight.
Was it?
That info is what an untrained observer (the observer subject has been
hashed over here on the list to great length) said they saw.
That same observer also saw (read the NTSB report) the airplane pitch up
after the wing came off, and then dive towards the ground.
Is it possible for an airplane to pitch up (enough for someone a mile
away to tell) after it has only one wing?
I don't think so.
Maybe a hard pitch up happened at about the same time that the wing came
off but it was not visible to the observer until an altitude change took
place?
Who knows?
Maybe John was flying, maybe he wasn't.
Maybe the wing did come off flying straight and level.............and
maybe it didn't.
All I am meaning to do is suggest that no one should look at this in
generalities.
This is still a sensitive subject to me and many others, and I tend go
over board in nit picking but...
All "any" of us really know, is that the wing came off (actually only
part of it did; nit picking again).
I hope my 2 examples show that after that statement, anything else is
generalizing with out speaking of all of the possibilities (thousands).
Hoping I don't have to see this thread come alive again.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Fuel Tank Baffle |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> If you look at the rear baffle, the rivets that attach it to the
> tank
> skin are pretty close to the radius, with most of the width of the
> flange aft of the rivet. That long width of flange will have a
> bunch
> of Proseal under it, which will end to force the skin away from the
> flange. So, if you don't do anything, the Proseal will cure with
> the
> skin forced outwards, and the distance between the top and bottom
> edges of the tank skin will be quite a bit more than the distance
> from the top to bottom of the main spar. You might be able to force
>
> the skin down to the spar when you screw it in place, but the
> Proseal
> would be cured, and you would have very unsightly bulges between the
>
> row of rivets, and the aft edges of the tank skin. These bulges
> would not be good for either the appearance or the aerodynamics.
>
> Bottom line - you need to do something to hold the tank skin firmly
> against the flanges on the rear baffle while the Proseal cures.
>
Thought I would add some comments to Kevin's.
There are a lot of different ideas and techniques for sealing RV tanks.
Some are just as good as others.
I would like to mention a couple things though for any one that is
interested.
Tank sealant when mixed is still quite viscous. It will "not squeeze out
from between two parts just because they are riveted together.
The only job of the sealant is to keep the fuel from leaking from the
tank between the assembled parts (seems obvious)
Some builders seem to be using the sealant as if it holds the tank
together (read as "WAY TO MUCH").
If you fit and drill the tank with all of the parts dry (no sealant) and
then assemble using sealant it stands to reason that if you have a thick
sealant buildup between parts, that it can change the tank dimensionally
in some way.
Some builders are unable to complete a set of tanks with one can of
sealant. I never even use 1/2 of a can to seal a set of tanks.
Example: When installing all of the middle ribs in the tank... we are
not trying to keep fuel from getting past the rib into the next rib bay,
all we are trying to do is keep fuel from leaking past the rivets to the
outside.
This doesn't take a lot of sealant.
If you have a lot of sealant that has squeezed out from under the ribs to
both sides, then you used to much. It also likely means that you still
have a heavy buildup between the tank skin and the rib, because the
action of setting the rivet will not squeeze out the excess.
This is the same reason that something must be done to squeeze out excess
sealant along the baffle flange.
Mounting the tank on the wing should not be necessary however (which is
why it isn't in the construction manual).
The technique that I use to seal on a rear baffle causes very little (if
any) sealant to be caught between the baffle flange and the skin.
If you have used a heavy application of sealant so that some is trapped
between the baffle and the tank skin you need to do something to squeeze
it out.
If you use the wood block clothespin type clamps, use large C clamp and
squeeze each one after they are installed. This will provide enough
squeeze power to force out the thick sealant.
You could also use a couple of long pieces of scrap aluminum angle, etc.
As Kevin already mentioned, the action of setting rivets will not
squeeze
out excess amounts of sealant.
This is probably more important with RV-4 and RV-6(A) builders since they
have an even wider baffle flange. When the tank is completed and you
machine countersink the fwd attach screw holes, you should only see a
very faint dark line from the sealant where the skin ends and the baffle
begins in the countersink. Also the baffle flange edge should lay
tightly against the skin (not held away by sealant).
This problem of sealant buildup is mentioned in the RV-8(A) tank assembly
instructions. It can cause enough trouble that the tank will not fit
down on the wing after it is riveted together.
There is no reason for this to happen with any model RV.
Just keep in mind that if all of the tank parts fit well (tightly) when
it was drilled together, then you should be trying to have them fit
together with the same relationship when they rivet together (not a thick
sealant buildup in between).
I know there is a lot of fear of having a tank leak, but if the tank
doesn't fit the wing after it is completed then it doesn't matter if it
leaks or not.
Try and use just enough sealant to seal the point that you are trying to
prevent from leaking. You might also be surprised at how much less messy
it is.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QB shipping and delivery |
Bob,
When Roadway had our QB coming in, we coordinated with them to come right to
our hanger, Not big and in a residential area, so the location was easy for
them. We then got a hold of a local machine shop and had them run down with
their fork lift. One of those barter type deals. The Fork lift navigated
about 10 city blocks, a church parking lot and one busy intersection. He was
able to lift it off the truck and into the shop. Cost was a gift certificate
for dinner for he and his wife, and a bottle of his favorite brandy....pretty
smooth operation. I hope the finish kit goes as well in the snow.
Good Luck
Doug Bell
8QB wing work and landing light installation
Manistee, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VM1000 hour meter vs. Hobbs |
As a follow-up to the recent thread on the VM1000 hour meter, here are
some statistics for my RV-6:
Hobbs hours - 461
VM1000 hours - 362
The Hobbs meter is activated by an oil pressure switch; the VM1000
hour meter engages when the engine rpm is 1500 and above. Of the 461
hours, 305 are cross-country. My landing count is 680.
Mark Nielsen
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | G-limit testing for RV |
That is what I was quoting. Please don't take my opinion as an afront to
your decision on the RV-8. I am not bad mouthing the RV-8 just saying I
don't feel comfortable enough with the design yet to call it fully
aerobatic...which is my planes intended mission...so I'll build the RV-4.
If there were as many RV-8's flying as there are 4's with no further
failures that would be another story, but for now I have to look at the fact
that both wings broke in the same place (for different reasons) as well as
the experience of the pilot and the fact that Vans likely builds them better
at the factory than I can at home and I'm forced to squeeze into the smaller
plane. My choice. Yours is fine too.....don't get ruffled. Just a free
exchange of ideas and opinions on this internet thing. I really hope I can
get that redneck guy to call me a dick though. :)
Bill
>
>Bill, please see the FAA findings of fact for the N58RV accident under
>LAX98FA171 on their website www.ntsb.gov/Aviation/LAX98A171.htm
>and draw your
>own conclusions as to the cause of the wing failure. Andy Johnson, RV-8
>wings, no concerns about the strength or design of the aircraft.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | G-limit testing for RV |
Scott,
I apollogize for opening old wounds. The subject is dropped.
Bill
>Hoping I don't have to see this thread come alive again.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
>These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
>reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
Quote from Avemco for hull coverage is obscene.
$25,000 hull and $1,000,000 liability = $2375 per year.
This is for 7000 tailwheel hours on pilot with most ratings.
Anybody got better rates or suggestions other than being self insured?
P.S.
Insurance companies like to block further rate quotes once you
give them your name.
Thanks,
Bob Urabn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Judy and Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Folks
An opportunity has come up to purchase an 0-320-E2A for my -6A.
Anybody had any experience good or bad with this variant of the 0-320 ?
I know that it is only 150HP and a fixed pitch prop, 3/8 inch prop bolts
etc as listed in Vans Manual. what about the carb configuration ?
Many thanks
Graham Murphy
Blenheim
New Zealand
Can cut stiffeners for empennage in my sleep now...........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Marsland" <marsman(at)flash.net> |
Hello Judy and Graham,
I have purchased an O-320-E2D for my RV6A. Also there are a few people here
in the Austin, Texas area that are using E2s for their 6a's. I have the
6aQB. I am not at the point of installing the engine yet. However, vans
says there is no problem with the carb. They even have a scoop for the 320
carb. I will be down in your are along about March of next year. I am
planning a trip to Sydney and Brisbane. Maybe we can tag up and exchange
notes. Regards, Keith Marsland RV6A rudder.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Judy and Graham
Murphy
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 3:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: 0-320-E2A
Folks
An opportunity has come up to purchase an 0-320-E2A for my -6A.
Anybody had any experience good or bad with this variant of the 0-320 ?
I know that it is only 150HP and a fixed pitch prop, 3/8 inch prop bolts
etc as listed in Vans Manual. what about the carb configuration ?
Many thanks
Graham Murphy
Blenheim
New Zealand
Can cut stiffeners for empennage in my sleep now...........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A inspection time |
Listers,
After a little over seven years, my RV-6A is finally at the airport and is
awaiting its final inspection. Some thoughts:
1. I thought I'd never get this far; but, I took one little part at a time
and completed it. I finally ran out of the little things to do, except for
some last minute corrections at the airport.
2. I asked a bunch of questions, along the way, and collected a
bunch of notes off this list.
3. I've found that the FAA truly does not like to do inspections. I
tried through a friend at my local FSDO; but, I ended up hiring a
DAR. He's one of the good ones, though. It still hurts my wallet. :-)
4. FAA paperwork is not fun. There is a lot of ambiguity within the
instructions and guidelines as to how one should do histories, log
book entries, forms, etc. My DAR and I had a great discussion on
the gross weight limits published vs what we really use. He'd just
like to know when enough is enough. Me, too; but, I still set mine at
1800 pounds like many of you. He has his concerns about the
paperwork, too.
5. During some of the testing, I've learned that I really need to sit in
the airplane for a very long time to get familiar with things. Even
though I built it, I still need that time to do the touchy-feely stuff so
that it's engrained in my brain. Things happen fast during the takeoff
roll; so, there's no time to think about where to look and grab.
6. Don't touch the brakes!!!! Those things heat up way too fast! I
fried the O ring in my right brake because I was used to the larger
brakes of my Grumman. Don't touch the things and use the rudder!!!
I think my problem was the result of one tire being a little low. Make
sure your tires are inflated the same so that you don't favor one
brake.
7. The 150HP engine I used is plenty of power. Wow!!!! Even with
the 3/4" foam floor insulator, it still sounds nice. :-)
Saturday, Dec 11, I will have my RV inspected, weather permitting.
After that, I'll get some quick training in another RV-6A. Then, I'll
have no more excuses. It'll be time to fly and get back to doing the
honey-dos that my wife's been complaining about. Well, I do still
have to paint the RV. :-) I'll have a flight report later.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Gotta repair a brake. Waiting for inspector)
AA-5A N26276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: QB shipping and delivery |
I have picked up two fuselage & wing kit deliveries at Roadway, and both
times put the wing and the fuselage boxes on a 16 foot trailer. One other
guy and myself were able to unload it by ourselves. All you need is a floor
jack, a few pieces of wood and some ingenuity. You can push the big fuse
box back with your feet and drive out from under the box if you're careful.
I don't know how you would get it out of a big truck unless you had a
forklift. Road way will only drop-ship it to your place, which means you
have to move it when it gets there!
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
Making seats
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | glass tips on the tail |
On my RV-6A elevator tips I made a plug of 1/8 inch plywood and held it in
place with a dab of West system epoxy.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A panel ...waiting on a shipment from Van's
-----Original Message-----I am using SM type foam to seal
the front of the rudder and elevator glass
tips at the counterweight but I am wondering what other
builders did or are
going to do with the HS tip's and the VS tip? Manual does
not mention them
but they look kind of awkward being left open.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G-limit testing for RV |
Message text written by Scott McDaniels:
>You mentioned the wing came off with the airplane in straight and level
flight.
Was it?
That info is what an untrained observer (the observer subject has been
hashed over here on the list to great length) said they saw.
That same observer also saw (read the NTSB report) the airplane pitch up
after the wing came off, and then dive towards the ground.
Is it possible for an airplane to pitch up (enough for someone a mile
away to tell) after it has only one wing?
I don't think so.
Maybe a hard pitch up happened at about the same time that the wing came
off but it was not visible to the observer until an altitude change took
place?<
About 17 years ago I witnessed the wing separation of a Partinavia at an
airshow in TX. The aircraft was just starting a loop with both engines
shut down. Naturally, I was watching the show very carefully from near
show center. I would have sworn that the pitch of the aircraft had only
changed a degree or two and that there is no way the aircraft could have
been over stressed with so little pitch change which also did not appear
all that abrupt.
The FAA, using film and tapes of the event as well as metalurgist
determined that the separation was the result of a one time over G in a
positive G direction. I "spike" of the stick is all it took to overstress
the wing before the eye could register a pitch change. RV's have very
light controls and we must all be very careful here!
As for an aircraft pitching up with the loss of a wing, it could be
possible. The sudden loss of lift being overridden by the tails down
force.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
forward belly skins, looking forward to low G aerobatics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Blake" <danblake(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: G-limit testing for RV |
Also, in the last paragraph of the NTSB report, there is a statement
concerning the aircraft being load over the design aerobatic weight limit.
I'm surprised that that fact isn't noted more often. Of course this
decreases the G-limit tolerance of the aircraft.
Dan Blake
-8 tail
Atlanta
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: G-limit testing for RV
>
> Message text written by Scott McDaniels:
> >You mentioned the wing came off with the airplane in straight and level
> flight.
>
> Was it?
>
> That info is what an untrained observer (the observer subject has been
> hashed over here on the list to great length) said they saw.
>
> That same observer also saw (read the NTSB report) the airplane pitch up
> after the wing came off, and then dive towards the ground.
>
> Is it possible for an airplane to pitch up (enough for someone a mile
> away to tell) after it has only one wing?
>
> I don't think so.
>
> Maybe a hard pitch up happened at about the same time that the wing came
> off but it was not visible to the observer until an altitude change took
> place?<
>
> About 17 years ago I witnessed the wing separation of a Partinavia at an
> airshow in TX. The aircraft was just starting a loop with both engines
> shut down. Naturally, I was watching the show very carefully from near
> show center. I would have sworn that the pitch of the aircraft had only
> changed a degree or two and that there is no way the aircraft could have
> been over stressed with so little pitch change which also did not appear
> all that abrupt.
>
> The FAA, using film and tapes of the event as well as metalurgist
> determined that the separation was the result of a one time over G in a
> positive G direction. I "spike" of the stick is all it took to overstress
> the wing before the eye could register a pitch change. RV's have very
> light controls and we must all be very careful here!
>
> As for an aircraft pitching up with the loss of a wing, it could be
> possible. The sudden loss of lift being overridden by the tails down
> force.
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> 80331
> forward belly skins, looking forward to low G aerobatics
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HAROLD1339(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
I am insured with AVEMCO on my rv4. 1,000,000.00 liability and no hull
coverage. Premium is only 379.00 per year. Why not self insure the hull, it
can only be so much? By the way, my rv4 is for sale if you know anyone
interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
Bob-
Check the archives on the RV-list. There was a string about 6-9 months ago
about a company that offered very good rates to RV builders. Of course,
there was no mention about the -3, but I assume it would be close to the
same coverage as long as all CN's, etc., had been complied with.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv3-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv3-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob U.
> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 2:23 AM
> To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3.
>
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bob U."
>
> Quote from Avemco for hull coverage is obscene.
> $25,000 hull and $1,000,000 liability = $2375 per year.
> This is for 7000 tailwheel hours on pilot with most ratings.
>
> Anybody got better rates or suggestions other than being self insured?
>
> P.S.
> Insurance companies like to block further rate quotes once you
> give them your name.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Urabn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
>
>Folks
>
>An opportunity has come up to purchase an 0-320-E2A for my -6A.
>
>Anybody had any experience good or bad with this variant of the 0-320 ?
>
>I know that it is only 150HP and a fixed pitch prop, 3/8 inch prop bolts
>etc as listed in Vans Manual. what about the carb configuration ?
>
>Many thanks
>
>Graham Murphy
>Blenheim
>New Zealand
>Can cut stiffeners for empennage in my sleep now...........
>
This is the engine I had in my RV-6. Worked just fine; only about 3
to 5 MPH less than the 160 HP version. Plus you can burn autofuel.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
Hi Rob,
I'll check, but please make no assumptions.
RV-3's are not rated like the other RV's, sad to say from experience
so far. Very bad rates. Maybe after 10 years of good history for the
new RV-3B, things will change???
Dunno!
Bob Urban
RV-3 SN 1028
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Check the archives on the RV-list. There was a string about 6-9 months ago
> about a company that offered very good rates to RV builders. Of course,
> there was no mention about the -3, but I assume it would be close to the
> same coverage as long as all CN's, etc., had been complied with.
>
> Rob Reece
> RV-3 SN 45
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
"Bob U." wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bob U."
>
> Quote from Avemco for hull coverage is obscene.
> $25,000 hull and $1,000,000 liability = $2375 per year.
> This is for 7000 tailwheel hours on pilot with most ratings.
>
> Anybody got better rates or suggestions other than being self insured?
>
> P.S.
> Insurance companies like to block further rate quotes once you
> give them your name.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Urabn
>
Bob, I have the same limits you quoted and pay about one third of
Avemco's rates. I use Skysmith out in DesMoines, Iowa. Good luck-- Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
>
Mike,
The are numerous types of corrosion which affect aluminium alloys. I think 8 types,
but I don't have my books handy at the moment. Epoxy primers are effective
on all types EXCEPT Filliform corrosion. Alodine is effective against Filliform
corrosion as well as several other forms. The Alodine also allows a superior
bond between the aluminium and the primer.
Last year, a story was related about this on the list (Gil Alexander maybe???)
Some time ago, (before the reintroduction of their single engine line) Cessna
decided to epoxy primer their aircraft. The manufacturer of the primer specified
that the material be Alodined first. Cessna decided to forgo this extra step
(and expense) Less than 3 years later, they got field reports from Florida
of Filliform corrosion under the primer on a number of aircraft.
I have a copy of that post saved on a floppy disk somewhere. I'd be happy to email
it to you, off list, if you are interested.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings Alodining and epoxy priming everything
Boca Raton, Fl.
> snipped
> Alodine itself is a corrosion barrier and if not painted will still help against
corrosion. My question back is why are you alodining and priming as they
are both the same thing??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 hour meter vs. Hobbs |
>
>As a follow-up to the recent thread on the VM1000 hour meter, here are
>some statistics for my RV-6:
>
>Hobbs hours - 461
>VM1000 hours - 362
>
>The Hobbs meter is activated by an oil pressure switch; the VM1000
>hour meter engages when the engine rpm is 1500 and above. Of the 461
>hours, 305 are cross-country. My landing count is 680.
The original engine hours recorders were odometer type
mechanisms tied into tachometers . . . as such they were
really revolution counters and accurate for time at one
RPM only . . . since engine wear and tear is probably
tied more strongly to strokes and revs, would it not
make more sense to make operations based maintenance
decisions on revolutions. Easy to do compared to timers.
Takes no sofware. If a tacho-hourmeter was accurate at
say 2500 rpm, then each "hour" was 150,000 revs.
A 1/10 hour equivalent would be 15,000 revs. Knock
off the three least significant digits and you have
resolution to a 150th of an hour with only one more
digit to display than the classic hourmeter. Good
project for an amateur electro-wienie.
A c-mos counter powered up with a last-forever
lithium cell and an LED readout that lights up
only when you press a button would do the trick.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
Try Mac McGee at Aviation Underwriting Agency - 800-727-3823. We've been
very pleased with his products and service.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
In a message dated 12/9/99 2:24:52 AM Mountain Standard Time,
r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> Quote from Avemco for hull coverage is obscene.
> $25,000 hull and $1,000,000 liability = $2375 per year.
> This is for 7000 tailwheel hours on pilot with most ratings.
>
> Anybody got better rates or suggestions other than being self insured?
I've got insurance through SkySmith. $27K hull for $1038/yr. I've got a
commercial license with all the ratings and (at the time) only 150 hours of
tailwheel time. I had about 1150 hours total at the time I bought the
insurance. Their number is 800-743-1439. Good luck.
Rod Woodard
N99RV; RV-3 (For Sale)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QB shipping and delivery |
I have a ford ranger, it rode nicely in the back with the tailgate up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 hour meter vs. Hobbs |
Go to an FBO to rent a plane and I'll bet 90% of them use Hobbs for flight
time and tach time for a/c time and maint. I do. Ollie flying RV6-A
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000 hour meter vs. Hobbs
>
<Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
> >
> >As a follow-up to the recent thread on the VM1000 hour meter, here are
> >some statistics for my RV-6:
> >
> >Hobbs hours - 461
> >VM1000 hours - 362
> >
> >The Hobbs meter is activated by an oil pressure switch; the VM1000
> >hour meter engages when the engine rpm is 1500 and above. Of the 461
> >hours, 305 are cross-country. My landing count is 680.
>
> The original engine hours recorders were odometer type
> mechanisms tied into tachometers . . . as such they were
> really revolution counters and accurate for time at one
> RPM only . . . since engine wear and tear is probably
> tied more strongly to strokes and revs, would it not
> make more sense to make operations based maintenance
> decisions on revolutions. Easy to do compared to timers.
> Takes no sofware. If a tacho-hourmeter was accurate at
> say 2500 rpm, then each "hour" was 150,000 revs.
>
> A 1/10 hour equivalent would be 15,000 revs. Knock
> off the three least significant digits and you have
> resolution to a 150th of an hour with only one more
> digit to display than the classic hourmeter. Good
> project for an amateur electro-wienie.
>
> A c-mos counter powered up with a last-forever
> lithium cell and an LED readout that lights up
> only when you press a button would do the trick.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PR" <perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
Try Forest Agency in Oak Park, IL.(708-383-9000) I used to insure my Pitts
with them and I contacted them in August to insure an RV-3 I was going to
buy in Califorinia( but didn't). They are very resonable and easy to deal
with.
Perry Rhoads
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob U. <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thursday, December 09, 1999 3:29 AM
Subject: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3.
>--> RV3-List message posted by: "Bob U."
>
>Quote from Avemco for hull coverage is obscene.
>$25,000 hull and $1,000,000 liability = $2375 per year.
>This is for 7000 tailwheel hours on pilot with most ratings.
>
>Anybody got better rates or suggestions other than being self insured?
>
>P.S.
>Insurance companies like to block further rate quotes once you
>give them your name.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Bob Urabn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
Hi CHuck,
I searched the archives...
Found Skysmith and got off the phone just moments BEFORE I received
your post.
Like you say...... the rates are about 1/3.
At last, I can smile again.
Thanks a bunch.
Bob Urban
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Chuck Brietigam wrote:
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Chuck Brietigam
>
> "Bob U." wrote:
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bob U."
> >
> > Quote from Avemco for hull coverage is obscene.
> > $25,000 hull and $1,000,000 liability = $2375 per year.
> > This is for 7000 tailwheel hours on pilot with most ratings.
> >
> > Anybody got better rates or suggestions other than being self insured?
> >
> > P.S.
> > Insurance companies like to block further rate quotes once you
> > give them your name.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bob Urabn
> >
>
> Bob, I have the same limits you quoted and pay about one third of
> Avemco's rates. I use Skysmith out in DesMoines, Iowa. Good luck-- Chuck
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rambunctious Blind Riveting |
>I would leave those LP4-3 rivets alone. If you notice on the plan, the
four inboad ribs attach to the main spar also use the LP4-3 rivets since
there are no room to buck these rivets.
Personally, I would drill out these blind rivets and install what was
called out in the plans. It's been a while since I built my wings, but the
aren't the ribs with the blind rivets specified also held to the spar with
two AN-3 bolts?
>
>Beside, the shear load at the outboard ribs are way lower than those in
the inboard section.
>
Not true. While it is correct to state that the bending and shear loads on
the spar increase from tip to root, the same cannot be said for the
junction of the rib to spar. The purpose of the rib/ spar joint is to
transmit the local aerodynamic load to the spar. With an unswept,
cantilever wing without washout and evenly spaced ribs (RV wing), this
should remain constant along the spar (Let's not get into a discussion
about the fuel tank, which contains the weight of the fuel). The reason
the loading on the spar increases from tip to root is that the spar is
supporting the combined loading of the local aerodynamic loading and the
loading outboard.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 hour meter vs. Hobbs |
Ollie Washburn wrote:
>
> Go to an FBO to rent a plane and I'll bet 90% of them use Hobbs for flight
> time and tach time for a/c time and maint. I do. Ollie flying RV6-A
How about a 2" hour meter from a Caterpillar fork truck. Works fine
connected to the master.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: QB shipping and delivery |
"Balance the trailer"
I just wanted to remind you to 'bal;ance' it toward the front of axels,
then slow speed test it.
Cecil
>Bob,
> We use an old boat trailer decked with wood, but a car trailer
should
>work fine. The guys at Roadway will load it on your trailer for you.
Make
>sure it balances the trailer and you strap it down well. We put the
>fuselage box slightly to one side so the wing box can be put upright
beside it
>and then everything is strapped down. Check the outside of both boxes
for
>possible damage and make sure any is noted before you leave the yard.
>Have fun!
>
>George and Becki Orndorff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: glass tips on the tail |
What ever method used here, make absolutely sure it can never come loose.
If it did and james the elevator, it makes for a very bad day.
Cecil Hatfield
>
>>
>>I am using SM type foam to seal the front of the rudder and elevator
>glass
>>tips at the counterweight but I am wondering what other builders did
>or are
>>going to do with the HS tip's and the VS tip? Manual does not mention
>them
>>but they look kind of awkward being left open.
>>
>>Thanks in advance
>>
>>Rob Baxter RV-8
>>Sarnia Ontario
>>waiting for wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net> |
Hello Graham,
I had an 0-320 E2A on my RV6A - I had it 'beefed' up to 160hp with new
high compression pistons along with the fixed pitch prop as supplied by
Van's - it was (is) a great engine. Never had any trouble with it while I
owned the plane.
Best regards - Rob (Building an RV-3B) rgreener(at)micron.net
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Judy and Graham
> Murphy
> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 2:37 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 0-320-E2A
>
>
>
>
> Folks
>
> An opportunity has come up to purchase an 0-320-E2A for my -6A.
>
> Anybody had any experience good or bad with this variant of the 0-320 ?
>
> I know that it is only 150HP and a fixed pitch prop, 3/8 inch prop bolts
> etc as listed in Vans Manual. what about the carb configuration ?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Graham Murphy
> Blenheim
> New Zealand
> Can cut stiffeners for empennage in my sleep now...........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine & Primer |
Yes, I would be interested and apreciate it.
Mike Robertson
In a message dated Thu, 9 Dec 1999 9:52:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, Charlie Kuss
writes:
>
> >
>
> Mike,
> The are numerous types of corrosion which affect aluminium alloys. I think 8
types, but I don't have my books handy at the moment. Epoxy primers are effective
on all types EXCEPT Filliform corrosion. Alodine is effective against Filliform
corrosion as well as several other forms. The Alodine also allows a superior
bond between the aluminium and the primer.
> Last year, a story was related about this on the list (Gil Alexander maybe???)
Some time ago, (before the reintroduction of their single engine line) Cessna
decided to epoxy primer their aircraft. The manufacturer of the primer specified
that the material be Alodined first. Cessna decided to forgo this extra
step (and expense) Less than 3 years later, they got field reports from Florida
of Filliform corrosion under the primer on a number of aircraft.
> I have a copy of that post saved on a floppy disk somewhere. I'd be happy to
email it to you, off list, if you are interested.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8 wings Alodining and epoxy priming everything
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> > snipped
>
> > Alodine itself is a corrosion barrier and if not painted will still help
against corrosion. My question back is why are you alodining and priming as they
are both the same thing??
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rambunctious Blind Riveting |
>
> > I would leave those LP4-3 rivets alone. If you notice on the plan,
> > the
> > four inboad ribs attach to the main spar also use the LP4-3 rivets
> > since
> > there are no room to buck these rivets.
>
> Personally, I would drill out these blind rivets and install what was
> called out in the plans.
Let me thank everyone who responded on and off line to my query.
I took a poster's advice and sent email to Van's support yesterday and
received a response today.
They said it would be OK to leave these rivets in place _but_ he
included a strong admonition that this substituion was not appropriate
in all cases (throughout the structure).
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings (Drive On!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rambunctious Blind Riveting |
Scott is correct in stating that the shear load on the rivets at the interface
betweent the rib/spar remain the same along the spar span for the constant section,
with no wash-out wing. Althought the wing spar bending moment, torsion
and shear loads do increase from the tip to the wing root but the the rib/spar
attachment only see the local aerodynamic loads.
I was thinking of the wing spar shear load for this rib/spar attachment and overlooked
the details. My hat off to Scott for pointing this out.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A
>>> ScottGesele 12/09/99 11:21AM >>>
>I would leave those LP4-3 rivets alone. If you notice on the plan, the
four inboad ribs attach to the main spar also use the LP4-3 rivets since
there are no room to buck these rivets.
Personally, I would drill out these blind rivets and install what was
called out in the plans. It's been a while since I built my wings, but the
aren't the ribs with the blind rivets specified also held to the spar with
two AN-3 bolts?
>
>Beside, the shear load at the outboard ribs are way lower than those in
the inboard section.
>
Not true. While it is correct to state that the bending and shear loads on
the spar increase from tip to root, the same cannot be said for the
junction of the rib to spar. The purpose of the rib/ spar joint is to
transmit the local aerodynamic load to the spar. With an unswept,
cantilever wing without washout and evenly spaced ribs (RV wing), this
should remain constant along the spar (Let's not get into a discussion
about the fuel tank, which contains the weight of the fuel). The reason
the loading on the spar increases from tip to root is that the spar is
supporting the combined loading of the local aerodynamic loading and the
loading outboard.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Strandjord" <emstrand(at)isd.net> |
| Subject: | RHow to get your boxes home..... |
I used an Antique auto transport company (A1 Towing :-) ) .
Find a towing company that has a truck with a tilting, slide-out bed.
Roadway can
fork the crates onto the truck, and the driver can tilt the bed down to your
driveway.
Be sure to let at least a foot of the 'fus box hang out the back. Then he
can tilt the
bed down letting one end of the box directly contact the pavement. then its
just a matter of slowing driving out from under it. (the bed is slipperier
than your driveway).
It helped me to have two 2' by 4' dollies with 2" wheels (wheels cheap from
home depot) ready. 2 by 4 's for the flat dolly. (Like furniture moving
guys use for pianos and couches.)
As he drove out from under the main box, I placed the dollies about 4' in
from each end.
I was able to roll the big box around quite nicely. (in fact, I have left
the fuselage on the bottom of box (sides and top removed) and can roll it
around the garage when I need access)
(Take the top off first -- so you can see down inside. The sides are nailed
to a fake spar so you need to be careful about removing the sides so you
don't tweak the fuselage)
We then just slid the wing box "down the ramp" onto a third dolly.
Since I am still finishing the tail, I have left the wings in the box,
since inventory-able parts are all in the fuselage box.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A QB Kit For Sale |
I got a few responses on my first notice and even thought I had it sold but
it didn't work out so the kit is still for sale.
The kit was bought in 1998 with the following
options :
1. Sliding Canopy.
2. Elevator Electric Trim Kit.
3. Rudder bottom without provision for tail light.
4. Leading Edge Landing Light kit both wings.
5. Electric Flap option.
6. Firewall Recess Kit.
7. Manual Aileron Trim Kit.
8.Fresh Air Vent System.
9. External Step kit both sides.
10. Static Air Kit.
11. Dual Brake Kit.
The Empennage is done except for the fiberglass work..
The floor boards, left arm rest and window sill have been installed.
The rear top cover has been positioned and drilled.
I am selling this kit because I bought another kit that was 90% finished.
Asking $16,000.00, the price is negotiable!! Please respond off list.
My phone number is (925) 829-4680 and my E-mail
address is
pjbodie(at)home.com
The kit is located in Dublin, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing rear spar rivets |
Hello everyone,
I'm having a problem riveting the 2nd inboard rib in to my otherwise completed
-8 wings. The wing is completely closed and the flap brace is installed. On
that rib, the 1/8th inch rivets that go through rear flange on the rib, the
rear spar web, the "tuning fork" doubler and the W-807DPP doubler plate are the
problem. The bottom two rivets are underneath the triangle created by the flap
brace and I cannot get a bucking bar in there.
I'm considering using Cherrymax rivets or possible drilling the holes to 3/16
and using AN3 bolts. If I use the bolts, the edge distance on just the very
lower hole on the rib flange will be almost nothing but is OK for the spar
doublers. I've always heard if you use Cherrymax rivets you should use the next
larger size to keep the same strength as solid. Is this true?
Did anyone else have this problem, or did I get ahead of myself by trying to
save those last 3 ribs until the end.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
rv8er(at)concentric.net
RV-8 80081
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
Have you seen the one the Kevin Horton made for use with a pneumatic
rivet squeezer. He has a picture at
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/wing/w15.html
Greg
steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I have modified my c-frame dimpler to work without a hammer. I use two
> small air cylinders and a breath-operated actuator valve. This set-up allows
me
> to keep both hands on the metal while I dimple. The resulting dimples are
> uniform since they are hit with exactly the same force every time. I have used
> this on my ailerons, flaps and wing skins and have had great results. It takes
> one quarter of the time to dimple this way versus the hammer. If there is enough
> interest I will make some extra assemblies. There is no permanent modifications
> to the c-frame as this unit bolts on to the arm. It has saved me time and much
> aggravation. No more holding the metal back with my elbow while I hold the rod
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
Scott R McDaniels wrote:
Scott
been doing dimpling with a aircylinder for nearly two years now.
I use it in the 'whack' mode ;-)
It takes about two to three 'blows', pardon the pun, to set a dimple.
Must be doing something right as my work quality was deemed excellent by
the visiting tech counciler. My rivets sit flush too.
Yes, the C-frame can be made to bend, but when we made the c-frame and
attachment, we made it so that we can adjust where the stroke bottoms
out.
We set it up so that the dies just touch. this way we have enough
squeeze to fully set a dimple but not enough to kill the c-frame.
There is nothing like doing a dimple with both hands available.
Works for me, your mileage may vary.
Gert
p.s. I have no pictures (yet)
> Steve,
> this sounds like a great idea, but do the air cyl. hammer the dies
> together or are they just squeezing like a squeezer.
> If they are just squeezing then you dimples may be consistent but they
> are not likely dimpled fully. It takes a lot of "squeezing" force to
> make a nice crisp dimple.
> The C frame tool is not nearly stiff enough to handle the amount of
> squeeze force that is required.
> After completing a dimple... is their a small ring mark on the skin that
> is the same diameter as that of the dimple die?
> If not then the dies are not seating and fully seating the dimple.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing rear spar rivets |
I was planning on leaving out the 3 inboard ribs to buck the skins more
easily without having to resort to pop rivets.
I will now wait to see what reactions you are getting.
However, I build the left wing with all ribs in place and was able to
buck all rivets. Nope, no smilies in that area.
Used something akin a hammer, use the handle through a big upper hole to
aim the head of the hammer on top of the rivet.
use either a stick or your (spouses ?? hehehehe) hand to prevent the
hammer head to fly off.
If you stare long enough you will find a way to set those rivets in the
ribs.
Have another person use the rivet gun. No problemo.
Gert
Greg Puckett wrote:
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm having a problem riveting the 2nd inboard rib in to my otherwise completed
> -8 wings. The wing is completely closed and the flap brace is installed. On
> that rib, the 1/8th inch rivets that go through rear flange on the rib, the
> rear spar web, the "tuning fork" doubler and the W-807DPP doubler plate are the
> problem. The bottom two rivets are underneath the triangle created by the flap
> brace and I cannot get a bucking bar in there.
>
> I'm considering using Cherrymax rivets or possible drilling the holes to 3/16
> and using AN3 bolts. If I use the bolts, the edge distance on just the very
> lower hole on the rib flange will be almost nothing but is OK for the spar
> doublers. I've always heard if you use Cherrymax rivets you should use the next
> larger size to keep the same strength as solid. Is this true?
>
> Did anyone else have this problem, or did I get ahead of myself by trying to
> save those last 3 ribs until the end.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Puckett
>
> rv8er(at)concentric.net
>
> RV-8 80081
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: G-limit testing for RV |
Scott,
All of our own computer tests of the rv-8 wing spar show that it supports the
9 G limit that Van says it will. Taking it to overload destruction shows it
breaking in approximately the same spot. Any wing spar could be broken with
a high structural overload. Its like any of the jets we fly today--at a
design maneuvering speed in which full deflection of the controls above that
speed guarantees nothing.
This might be what happened to them.
TOM
RV-8 540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
"Rocket List"
Lister,
The saga of my sreach for insurance continues. It has gone from
NO-one would even quote me to $3340 / yr for the Harmon Rocket II.
Details: 3000+ hr pilot with all the ratings, 50 hrs tailwheel time,
Hull and liability, 250 deductable non-moving. 2500 moving.
Sounds high to me but at least I now have a quote which was better than
before. No flying for a couple of more months so the sreach continues.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
engine, cowl, etc. etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ? on countersinking |
Hello this should be an easy ? for the experience builder. On one of the
Videos it was said to use a the rivet as a gage when you countersink a hole,
keep it flush. But when I put a thinner peace of metal on top that was
dimpled it wont sit flat. Should I countersink it deeper or dose the gap
close up when you Rivet? My guess would be to countersink it a little deeper
till the metal sits flat. Thanks Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Left Elevator |
I am considering fabricating ribs to close off the ends of the trim tab
as well as the inboard part of the elevator where the trim tab fits.
Has anyone had experience with this, pro or con? Any ideas on the best
way to accomplish? Am I being too anal? (don't answer that!) I haven't
broken off the tabs or anything...it's just that i think the idea of
folding them over each other and then riveting them together is a bit
kludgey (only my opinion!)...it would be so much easier for Van's to
provide these ribs and I wonder why they haven't done this...
Thanks
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 VS, HS, Rudder and Right Elevator Done, Wing Kit almost
here...gotta finish left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 hour meter vs. Hobbs |
>> Go to an FBO to rent a plane and I'll bet 90% of them use Hobbs for flight
>> time and tach time for a/c time and maint. I do. Ollie flying RV6-A
>
>How about a 2" hour meter from a Caterpillar fork truck. Works fine
>connected to the master.
>John Kitz
>N721JK
>Ohio
>
Recommend you use oil pressure switch to drive Hobbs meter
so that it doesn't run during ground maintenance operations
with just the battery switch turned on.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | NOTICE OF PROPOSED RULEMAKING (NPRM) |
Part 0, Section 000 (a) 1(c)
Section I - No pilot or pilots, or person or persons acting on the direction
or suggestion or supervision of a pilot or pilots may try, or attempt to try
or make, or make attempt to try to comprehend or understand any or all, in
whole or in part of the herein mentioned Aviation Regulations, except as
authorized by the Administrator or an agent appointed by, or inspected by,
the Administrator.
Section II - If a pilot, or group of associate pilots becomes aware of, or
realizes, or detects, or discovers, or finds that he or she, or they, are or
have been beginning to understand the Aviation Regulations, they must
immediately, within three (3) days notify, in writing, the Administrator.
Section III - Upon receipt of the above-mentioned notice of impending
comprehension, the Administrator shall immediately rewrite the Aviation
Regulations in such a manner as to eliminate any further comprehension
hazards.
Section IV - The Administrator may, at his or her discretion, require the
offending pilot or pilots to attend remedial instruction in Aviation
Regulations until such time that the pilot is too confused to be capable of
understanding anything.
Merry Christmas and to all a good flight!
AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Left Elevator |
Just get some wood, cut it at the angle to match the elevator, and bend up
some ribs. Takes a few tries, but doesn't take much longer than reading
this. The key is to start bending, and don't be afraid to throw several
away - the learning curve is fast, and you'll find the skill handy later on
when you want to customize stuff.
Alex Peterson
> I am considering fabricating ribs to close off the ends of the trim tab
> as well as the inboard part of the elevator where the trim tab fits.
> Has anyone had experience with this, pro or con? Any ideas on the best
> way to accomplish? Am I being too anal? (don't answer that!) I haven't
> broken off the tabs or anything...it's just that i think the idea of
> folding them over each other and then riveting them together is a bit
> kludgey (only my opinion!)...it would be so much easier for Van's to
> provide these ribs and I wonder why they haven't done this...
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark Dickens
> Germantown, TN
> RV-8 VS, HS, Rudder and Right Elevator Done, Wing Kit almost
> here...gotta finish left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim eastburn <engine103(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] RV-8 Left Elevator |
That's what I did. After several attempts at making the perfect bend, fold and
spindle, and never really satisfied, the rib method was
the only way to go. Jim E..North Plains OregonCell Biology Reference Set--3 books
+ 2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Left Elevator |
I bent mine per the plans and think they turned out very nice. It's been my
impression that most people try bending first...if that doesn't work out
they go with the ribs.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark D. Dickens
> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 9:15 PM
> To: RV8List; RVList
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Left Elevator
>
>
>
>
> I am considering fabricating ribs to close off the ends of the trim tab
> as well as the inboard part of the elevator where the trim tab fits.
> Has anyone had experience with this, pro or con? Any ideas on the best
> way to accomplish? Am I being too anal? (don't answer that!) I haven't
> broken off the tabs or anything...it's just that i think the idea of
> folding them over each other and then riveting them together is a bit
> kludgey (only my opinion!)...it would be so much easier for Van's to
> provide these ribs and I wonder why they haven't done this...
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark Dickens
> Germantown, TN
> RV-8 VS, HS, Rudder and Right Elevator Done, Wing Kit almost
> here...gotta finish left elevator
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 hour meter vs. Hobbs |
Mark Nielsen wrote:
>
> As a follow-up to the recent thread on the VM1000 hour meter, here are
> some statistics for my RV-6:
>
> Hobbs hours - 461
> VM1000 hours - 362
>
> The Hobbs meter is activated by an oil pressure switch; the VM1000
> hour meter engages when the engine rpm is 1500 and above. Of the 461
> hours, 305 are cross-country. My landing count is 680.
Mark,
I have an EI electric tachometer that records flight time from the first time
the RPM exceeds 1500 for ten seconds and tach time from the first time it
exceeds 2100 for ten seconds.
I was convinced that it was broken despite recording the RPMs quite
satisfactorily. It was not until I resorted to putting a stop watch on at
run-up time and off on landing that I believed the figures. For test flying
where my average "flight time" on the King NDB clock was 40 minutes I was
recording about 20 minutes flight time on the EI gauge. It makes me realise why
flight schools like to charge on the Hobbs.
It certainly will make a big difference to maintainance costs.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
RV6A VH-LDX 17 hours on the tach, 25 hours in my logbook.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
After seeing a video of an 11th century, water wheel powered blacksmithing
hammer I went home and rigged my dimpler with a foot lever, a cable and
overhead pulley, and a 7lb sledge which pivots near the end of the handle.
This leaves both hands free to move and steady the aluminum, and your leg
to raise the hammer. The sledge will hit and bounce for an additional hit
or two. The dimples are very consistent with the desired ring. It is easy
to dimple every 2-3 seconds. I also rigged an overhead laser pointer to
point at the male "tit" so all I had to do was move the hole to the red dot
and it dropped in place. Not as engineered as an air cylinder, but hey,
I'm flying. kevin -6A 450hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | Alternate Oil to Cooler Port |
Clay,
I called Lycoming about this as my Lycoming Overhauled
engine came from the factory with a AN-6 nipple attached to this port.
The Lycoming Rep said that " this is an alternate port and would like me
to use the primary port instead," I'm using AN -8 fittings anyway.
Joe
----------
> From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)iquest.net>
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port
> Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:38 AM
>
>
> Hi folks,
> It's finally time to connect the oil lines to/from the oil cooler.
> Figure 7-4 of the Textron Lycoming Operator's Manual shows the 'oil to
> cooler' port for the 0-360-A series. This port is between the
magnetos
> in a tough place to get at. Figure 7-3 shows the alternate 'oil to
> cooler' port location.
>
> I'm not familiar with the engine's internal oil plumbing. Will I get
> the same cooling effect by using the alternate 'oil to cooler'
> location? Is there a significant difference between the effectiveness
> of the primary and alternate 'oil to cooler' ports?
>
> I appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Juli & Charlie" <kearns(at)gte.net> |
I still have my 8 project that is for sale. If anyone is interested please
contact me directly. I will be listing it in Trade-A-Plane starting
tomorrow on their web site and next week in their paper.
Thank you,
Charlie Kearns
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | antenna selection and placement |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
any recommendations on antennas (good ones to get, or bad ones to stay away
from) and where to put them?
in particular, is anyone using an IFR Approach GPS? did you put the antenna
on the glareshield or on the fuselage?
any ideas at all on where to place transponder, com, and marker beacon
attenas are welcome (in front of spar, or aft? where to run the coax, etc.)
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a (tip-up)
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ? on countersinking |
Bill:
When the hole is properly countersunk, you should be able to see a tiny
silver rim of countersunk metal above the circumference of the head of a
rivet dropped in the hole. When the rivet is driven it will be flush with
the surface.
George Kilishek
#80006
Assembling landing gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Fw: O-320 power charts |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Horton, Kevin" <HORTONK(at)tc.gc.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 11:09 PM
Subject: O-320 power charts
I am forwarding this on behalf of Kevin Horton who is on the road.....ahh
the life of a test pilot .
=============================================================
> Hi folks,
>
> I am on the road in Wichita now, and had planned on working on a
spreadsheet
> to calculate power for the O-320 in the evenings. Well, I managed to
leave
> the power charts back in Ottawa. I would greatly appreciate it if someone
> could fax me a good copy of the power chart from the Lycoming operators
> handbook for the O-320 model that Van sells. I'm not sure what model that
> is, because I don't have an Accessories Catalog with me, and the one on
> Van's website is down.
>
> Please contact me directly, and I'll send you the fax number. I don't
want
> to give the fax number out yet to make sure I don't get 5 guys all sending
> me the stuff.
>
> I am having trouble picking up my personal e-mail right now, so please
don't
> reply to the list - I won't get it. Please send any replies to my work
> address: hortonk(at)tc.gc.ca
>
> I would prefer someone who can send a fax at high resolution, so I get a
> better quality copy.
>
> I'll post a link to the spreadsheet once I get it sorted out. This will
> probably take several evenings, and I don't know how long I will be down
> here on this visit - so this may take a few weeks before I get it
finished.
> I only work on this sort of thing when I am on the road - when I am home I
> prefer to work on the RV-8.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Kevin Horton
> hortonk(at)tc.gc.ca (work)
> khorton(at)cyberus.ca (home)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Left Elevator |
Mark D. Dickens wrote:
>
>
> I am considering fabricating ribs to close off the ends of the trim tab
> as well as the inboard part of the elevator where the trim tab fits.
> Has anyone had experience with this, pro or con? Any ideas on the best
> way to accomplish? Am I being too anal? (don't answer that!) I haven't
> broken off the tabs or anything...it's just that i think the idea of
> folding them over each other and then riveting them together is a bit
> kludgey (only my opinion!)...it would be so much easier for Van's to
> provide these ribs and I wonder why they haven't done this...
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark Dickens
> Germantown, TN
> RV-8 VS, HS, Rudder and Right Elevator Done, Wing Kit almost
> here...gotta finish left elevator
Not too anal. I built a new tab skin and bent some spars. The factory
prepunched tab skin was a little short after cutting of the bend tabs to
the point of removing the holes at the trailing edge. I never even
attempted to bend the tabs. Looks OK on other planes. Just could not put
it on mine.
George Meketa
RV-8Q fuselage floors
P.S. tricycles are for babies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 tip up lift strut |
Asking for a "friend"...
Does anyone out there know if there is an equivalent to Van's lift
strut for the tip up canopy on a RV6. Something from Checker, Pep
Boys, NAPA, etc???
Possibly a part number??
Thanks
Larry Olson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Christmas gifts |
> The ToolKey proudly displays the RV model your friend
>has on the head of the tool. Toolkey is made from tough, polished,
>stainless steel to last a lifetime. The ToolKey is only $6.50 including
>shipping in the US. If YOU are interested in this item you may want to
>do some hinting to friends and loved ones about this great item!
>
Don't have any loved ones who own RVs but will will this tool wreck my
newly engraved fuel caps that I hope to install when I build my RV?
Ed.
Not worth archiving.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Left Elevator |
I had great success bending the tabs by using a form block. I cut a V from a
2x4, put the cutout inside the trim tab and used the other piece outside
with a big C-clamp to hold it in place. With the inner block firmly
anchored in place I could whack away with a plastic mallet. Took all of
about 15-20 min. for everything. Got a nice tight bends that I don't think
look kludgey at all.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) finishing kit
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)>
>
>
> I am considering fabricating ribs to close off the ends of the trim tab
> as well as the inboard part of the elevator where the trim tab fits.
> Has anyone had experience with this, pro or con? Any ideas on the best
> way to accomplish? Am I being too anal? (don't answer that!) I haven't
> broken off the tabs or anything...it's just that i think the idea of
> folding them over each other and then riveting them together is a bit
> kludgey (only my opinion!)...it would be so much easier for Van's to
> provide these ribs and I wonder why they haven't done this...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christine & Arthur" <act(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing rear spar rivets |
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm having a problem riveting the 2nd inboard rib in to my
> otherwise completed
> -8 wings. The wing is completely closed and the flap brace is
> installed. On
> that rib, the 1/8th inch rivets that go through rear flange on
> the rib, the
Hi Greg,
We used a strip of steel about 3/8" thick and 1" wide and 4 1/4" long as a
dolly (bucking bar!), hard on the fingers but worked OK.
Cheers,
Arthur Whitehead
RV-8 left wing in the spare bedroom, right wing commenced.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Middlesboro fly-in |
Listers,
The note below was just sent to the Grumman Gang. If you folks
want to join in, by all means, do so. They'd be glad to have you
along. I'm sure there some of you out there who need something to
do, in the morning. As for me, I'm going to be intertaining my DAR.
As builders, I'm sure you'll appreciate the work done by the guys in
the restoration group.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Waiting for my inspection)
>>Gangsters,
This is it! The weather forcast for Saturday, Dec 11,
is looking great for our area. Per a note from Rob
Herklotz, he's planning on being there and will be
waiting for you to join him. I'm hoping that all of you
Grumman/American Yankee lovers in our area will
show up to give his pride a big boost. You need to
go flying, anyway.
As for you introverts, don't be shy! Get yourselves over
there! Try to fit in and have a great time! Hopefully,
Rob will bring name tags for you.
fog to clear. It's raining here this morning; so, there's
a good chance for the stuff in the morning. It's down in
a bowl, remember. They almost have to pipe in
sunshine. :-) It's nestled in the mountains that make
up the boundary connection of TN, KY, and VA. Don't
be afraid of its location. It's a snap to get into. Just
don't run into those big rocks as you drop down for
the landing. We'd appreciate it. :-)
Lunch: As discussed before, McDonalds, pizza to be
ordered, and roll your own.
Attraction: The P-38, for sure. There is Cumberland Gap, as
well. You'll enjoy the P-38 tour. You can get up close and
personal with it. That's right. You can even touch it. The
guys in the shop are instructed to answer any and all of the
questions you have. Believe me, you'll enjoy yourself if
you like old war birds and like to see restoration projects.
This one is first class.
As for myself, I may not be able to attend. I'd really like to; but,
it may not work out for me. My RV-6A is scheduled for it's
final inspection in the morning; so, I may be busy with that.
I'll try to be there; but, the inspector's time is scarce. I took
advantage of the time he gave me.
Please, be there and enjoy.
Jim Sears in KY
AA-5A N26276
RV-6A N198JS (Final inspection time!) <<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
>
> listers,
>
> any recommendations on antennas (good ones to get, or bad ones to stay away
> from) and where to put them?
>
> in particular, is anyone using an IFR Approach GPS? did you put the antenna
> on the glareshield or on the fuselage?
>
> any ideas at all on where to place transponder, com, and marker beacon
> attenas are welcome (in front of spar, or aft? where to run the coax, etc.)
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a (tip-up)
> mamaroneck, ny
>
When I do it again, I will avoid putting both comm antennas on the
belly. I used Comant bent whips mounted about 36" apart just aft of the
spar. There is definite blind or blocked area around the airplane with
both radios. I have learned over time, especially on the ground which
way to orient the nose when communicating on the ground. Switching
transmitters always fixes the problem. I put the transponder antenna
just aft of the battery box. It works fine accept it takes a lot of
abuse from debris thrown back by the prop. The Bob Archer VOR antenna in
the right wing tip works great even when split for the glide slope.
Next time, if I have two radios, I will ensure I have one straight
antenna on the turtle deck.
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener ON
RV-6
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry" <larryjenison(at)voyager.net> |
Hi Builders, I need some help, would anyone out there know where I could get
a airspeed face redone. It's a Edo Aire EA5175. I would like to get the
color arches repainted to reflect RV-3 airspeeds.
Larry Jenison
RV-3 160 93JP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johnny Johnson <bbds(at)means.net> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
FWIW, Avemco wouldn't even quote me RV-3 insurance--the guy I talked to
said they won't do it. This was about a year ago, maybe they've now
decided to "talk about it" but charge so much nobody in their right mind
would buy it. BTW, I had given him enough info for a quote, including
pilot info (ATP, 4500+, 1400 T/W, 10 M/M) but when he came back to me for
what I figured was a quote, he said no-go.
This from the "official" EAA folks... am I missing something here?
I'm not much of a shopper but ended up with Northstar Avation Insurance,
Fargo. Premium this year is $225 for $1MM Liab and $288 for $25K
not-in-motion ($250 ded) for total of $513. I'm self-insuring while I'm in
the airplane... being perfect, nothing will happen during that time...:=))
Their phone is 701-235-2041, talk to Marc or Bob Lepage if this looks
interesting. They're "good guys".
Johnny
49MM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
I am putting my GPS antenna under my canopy on the skin behind the back
seat. I thought about on the glare shield but realized that I would have
problems getting to it for maintenance.
Along the lines of other antenna placement.....I am putting my com and
transponder antenna on the belly of my -8. How far apart do they need to
be?
Thanks in advance
Chat Daniel
RV8 678RV(reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: Louis Cappucci <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thursday, December 09, 1999 10:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: antenna selection and placement
>
>listers,
>
>any recommendations on antennas (good ones to get, or bad ones to stay away
>from) and where to put them?
>
>in particular, is anyone using an IFR Approach GPS? did you put the antenna
>on the glareshield or on the fuselage?
>
>any ideas at all on where to place transponder, com, and marker beacon
>attenas are welcome (in front of spar, or aft? where to run the coax, etc.)
>
>thanks,
>louis cappucci
>rv-6a (tip-up)
>mamaroneck, ny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
10 Dec 1999 09:07:48.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Drilling F-628/629 Bellcrank Hole |
Hi,
This message is not directed at anyone I just thought it might be nice to have
this in the archives, might save someone some time. I have my fuselage skeleton
all finished and ready to skin. At the suggestion of Rich Jankowski (Risky
Business) who is more than a talented builder I put in my F-628 and F-629 and
also put in my baggage bulkhead closure. Much easier to do it now than crawling
around in the fuse. All you need to do is make a 5/8th support for the bulkhead,
which you probably already have since it's so floppy in the initial stages, then
turn the jig cross member around and place it on the other side against the
5/8th support. This allows access to install the vertical rib that holds the
elevator bellcrank. Put the same 5/8th spacer on the jig cross member for the
F-629 to be clamped against and you are assured of a vertical baggage bulkhead.
Great!
Now the problem, drilling that @#$% hole that holds the bellcrank. I would
prefer to have no side loading on the bellcrank so I wanted the bolt to be
perfectly square to the rotation of the bellcrank. The first time I eyeballed it
and drilled it. Looked great, final riveted the whole thing, put the bolt in.
Not even close. All those strange angles really throw your eye off. Since the
strength of this assy. comes from the .063 angle and not the rib I drilled out
the angle and did the whole thing again. This time I used the wooden block/dirll
press method like you do on your aileron bellcrank. I still don't know why but
STEEERIIIKE 2. Notice in the -6 instructions (pictures) the angles are only
clecoed on the angle is not riveted to the rib. Next plane I will do the same.
Time to step back and look at what has to be. All this does is hold a pushrod
that travels in a straight line (hopefully) from the sticks to this bellcrank.
So on the table saw I ripped a straight piece of wood 50" long and 3/4 by 1/2.
Then cut a 1/4 dowel to simulate the bolt and put it in the bellcrank bearing.
Wedge the dowel between the two ribs where they must be per plans, and connect
one end of the stick to the control sticks union and the other end to the
bellcrank simulating the pushrod. You will be able to see exactly how to
position the dowell to simulate the bolt. The wood stick will take out one
variable in that you will only have to determine the horizontal alignment of the
dowel.
Mark the skin around the dowell for your drill position. I went one step
further. I would feel better about this assembly if it was beefed up a little
(no I'm not saying it's weak just mo is betta). So I put a 2 1/4 by 5" .063
plate on the inside. This also allowed me to "tune" the position of the bolt
hole. Since no real strength is gained from the rib, I drilled that out 1/2" to
give some play. Then put a 1/4" hole in the .063 plate. By sliding the plate and
reclamping you can eventually get the bellcrank position hole exactly true. Then
secure the .063 plate with six rivets that catch the angle on the bottom row of
rivets and the rib on the top row and drill your hole through the .063 angle for
the bolt. Back drill through the other side and now your bolt goes through two
pieces of .063 on each side instead of one. This equates to mo betta in my mind.
Your bolt is perfectly positioned.
This whole thing took about 45 minutes, while I measured and fretted for about
three hours on the first two failed attempts.
On a side note I HIGHLY recomend putting in your battery box and front floor
stiffeners at this stage. Its much easier to work at it from the top of the jig.
Hope it helps.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
With com. antenna on belly you may have trouble talking to ground or tower
while you're on the ground. Ollie Flying RV
----- Original Message -----
From: Chat Daniel <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com>
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: antenna selection and placement
>
> I am putting my GPS antenna under my canopy on the skin behind the back
> seat. I thought about on the glare shield but realized that I would have
> problems getting to it for maintenance.
>
> Along the lines of other antenna placement.....I am putting my com and
> transponder antenna on the belly of my -8. How far apart do they need to
> be?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Chat Daniel
> RV8 678RV(reserved)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Louis Cappucci <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, December 09, 1999 10:51 PM
> Subject: RV-List: antenna selection and placement
>
>
> >
> >listers,
> >
> >any recommendations on antennas (good ones to get, or bad ones to stay
away
> >from) and where to put them?
> >
> >in particular, is anyone using an IFR Approach GPS? did you put the
antenna
> >on the glareshield or on the fuselage?
> >
> >any ideas at all on where to place transponder, com, and marker beacon
> >attenas are welcome (in front of spar, or aft? where to run the coax,
etc.)
> >
> >thanks,
> >louis cappucci
> >rv-6a (tip-up)
> >mamaroneck, ny
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
>
>I am putting my GPS antenna under my canopy on the skin behind the back
>seat. I thought about on the glare shield but realized that I would have
>problems getting to it for maintenance.
>
>Along the lines of other antenna placement.....I am putting my com and
>transponder antenna on the belly of my -8. How far apart do they need to
>be?
The transponder antenna is not affected much
not appreciate being tightly coupled to the
100W+ peak power pulses put out by the transponder.
There's no hard and fast rule but I'd make it
as far as practical. Mount the xponder antenna
for minimizing length of its coax feedline
(feedline losses due to length are about 8x
higher at transponder frequencies) and mount
the comm antenna further aft. If you can get
2' or better separation, I suspect it will
work okay.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port |
Stu,
Do you mean "Stratoflex" 193 instead of your mentioned Aeroquip? My
catalogs do not show an Aeroquip 193 but cross reference charts do say
that Strato 193 is comparable to Aero 306. I hope that no one is using
this type hose for fuel and oil lines as it is meant to be used in low
pressure applications for instrument air and vacuum lines. At the
least, read the explanations in the ACS catalog page 117.
BTW, the cross reference sheet compares the following hoses:
AEROQUIP STRATOFLEX
MIL-H-6000 160
306 193
303 111
601 156
666 124
TRAASH
RV-8, DWH
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
Steve,
Between your post and another referring to a 3/4" chunk of metal
machined into a 24" yoke I've gotten confused. Is what you are
suggesting
for the standard Avery/Cleveland dimpler or something else ?
If it is for the avery dimpler then I would ask how much you want for
your
modification ? Thanks for the info in advance.
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
>Listers,
I have modified my c-frame dimpler to work without a hammer.
I use two small air cylinders and a breath-operated actuator valve.
If there is enough interest I will make some extra assemblies.
modifications to the c-frame
> Steve Nichols
> RV-4 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Christmas gifts |
In a message dated 12/9/99 21:12:57, shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca writes:
> The ToolKey proudly displays the RV model your friend
>has on the head of the tool. Toolkey is made from tough, polished,
>stainless steel to last a lifetime. The ToolKey is only $6.50 including
>shipping in the US. If YOU are interested in this item you may want to
>do some hinting to friends and loved ones about this great item!
>
Don't have any loved ones who own RVs but will will this tool wreck my
newly engraved fuel caps that I hope to install when I build my RV?
Ed. >>
I will reply to this on behalf of Warren. As one of his earliest and surely
most frequent users, I can say the opposite is true. It is designed to fit
the lift up lever perfectly and avoid any scratching or rubbing. My
scratches and scars come from when I use the fuel sampler or some other
lesser lever looser on the cap.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Installation |
This is what I did: Made a plate to set the box on, drilling relief holes in
the plate as the box does not set flush, then made the angles to support the
box. The angles are on top of the plate. used an angle drill and drilled
holes in the side skin and first floor rib. Positioned the box on plate and
cut the top of the box to allow the box to slide back under the rib. when box
positioned drilled the mounting holes in box. Took it all apart cleaned up
holes and reinstalled it using pop rivets.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3(RV) Newsletters 1-24, Safety info, CN's, etc. |
hello -3'er-
I put together a "RV-3's Forever" booklet a while back that included RV-3
newsletters 1-24 (one or two of them missing somewhere, can't remember) that
covered all of the RV info from 1974-1981, all safety info from Van's, most
Change Notice (CN) info, an original instruction manual and pictures of the
prototype from Van's, and other misc. info. There have been a few people
that have shown interest in getting a copy that were not in on the first
print. If you think you would be interested in the booklet, please email me
and let me know so that I can get a new running count of people for the
"next" print (if enough interest). The last print cost about $24/ea. that
included shipping (about 5 lbs.), but the next run will probably be a few
dollars more because I kinda came out on the short end (but caught up with
some of the donations provided by the other RV-3'ers. . . THANKS).
This is for information purposes only and not for profit, etc. It is mostly
to bring awareness of all the information available on the RV-3 so that
builders, flyers, and owners of RV-3's (especially owners/flyers who did not
build their -3's) know the info available on their aircraft so that they can
make sure that they are safe. Additionally, most of this info is no longer
available from Vans.
Please let me know, if enough are interested I will put this thing together
again.
RV-3's forever!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
___________________________________
Rob Reece,
Rocket Propulsion Test Facility
505-835-5716 voice
505-835-5299 fax
Microcosm/Volt
c/o EMRTC
NM Tech Mail Station
Socorro, NM 87801
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rambunctious Blind Riveting |
With reference to Scott Geselle's question about LP4-3 rivets at his tip rib
to wing spar junction, I'll just toss out another option for consideration.
Drill out the LP4-3s and replace them with Cherrymax, or better yet oversize
Cherrymax pop rivets.
Harry Crosby
-6 Fuselage (almost ready for Finish Kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Left Elevator |
Check George Orndorff's Empennage video, if I recall correctly that's how he
did it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Problem (Please Read) |
Group
Just finished shipping all the fuel caps today. I have two that I screwed
up but have replacements on the way and will replace them as soon as they
arrive. You might want to check your cap to see if you have a plastic washer
and call the company and replace the part. Just under the latch and post
there's a washer the older ones are plastic the newer ones have a stainless
steel washer. The plastic washers are black so you can see it before taking
it apart. But these do not want to push down into place and came unlatched
while I was engraving or they didn't lay down all the way so my cutter head
had a problem. But there has to be a reason the company went to stainless? so
I would call them and complain or at least get a stainless one It doesn't
have the give the plastic ones have and snaps into place alot better. I'm no
expert but after latching and unlatching 140 caps I wanted to know why some
lacthed better than others that's when I discovered the washer. The company
that makes the cap is Usher Enterprises there number is (503) 647-0015 it's a
UD3 Cap the part number is 40-ss Washer Stainless. This may not be a big
problem but I feel the cap could come unlatched with the plastic ones. If it
were mine I would change them.
Thanks
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com |
| Subject: | Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
Listers,
There are several different "variations" of this concept out there. What I
have done is made an "assembly" that will bolt on the arm of an existing
Cleaveland or Avery type C-Frame dimpling tool. It uses two small, but powerful,
air cylinders actuated by a small valve. The valve is triggered by a using a
tube in your mouth to pressurise the valve. (similar to blowing bubbles in you
drink with a straw) As many of you have already learned, dimpling is not the
most exciting part of aircraft construction. This way makes it easier and
faster and it does set complete, uniform and correct dimples.
Total cost is still an unknown. The components are NOT in the aviation
department at Home Depot. Believe me I've looked. I hope to come up with
something soon and will share what I know.
Hope this clears up some confusion
Steve Nichols
Proud owner of partially completed RV-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ? on countersinking |
> Hello this should be an easy ? for the experience builder. On one of the
> Videos it was said to use a the rivet as a gage when you countersink a
hole,
> keep it flush. But when I put a thinner peace of metal on top that was
> dimpled it wont sit flat. Should I countersink it deeper or dose the gap
> close up when you Rivet? My guess would be to countersink it a little
deeper
> till the metal sits flat. Thanks Bill
Bill,
You will commonly countersink for two scenarios; for rivets, and for dimpled
skins. The depth required is different for each. When countersinking for a
rivet then use a rivet for a guage and set the depth so that the rivet is
just under the surrounding surface as indicated by a slight silver ring
around the rivethead. When countersinking for a skin simply make yourself a
set of "countersink guages". These are small scraps of the various materials
you'll be riveting that you have already drilled and dimpled. You then fit
this piece on top of the
The common one's you'll need are for 3/32" rivet, 1/8" rivet, #6 screws, and
#8 screws. I used two pieces of scrap and put the 3/32" and the 1/8" on one
piece, one in each corner, and the #6/#8 on the other piece. Cost is $0 and
it will take you about 12 minutes to cut the metal, drill, and dimple it. I
made two sets of two, one out of .025 alclad and one out of .032. This might
not be necessary but it seemed to me that the thicker material would sit
deeper since it's thicker.
Lastly, use a sharpie to mark the holes for reference so you're guessing
which one you're using.
Hope that helps,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, early finish kit
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
In a message dated 12/10/99 10:41:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, lm4(at)juno.com
writes:
<< Listers,
I have modified my c-frame dimpler to work without a hammer.
I use two small air cylinders and a breath-operated actuator valve.
If there is enough interest I will make some extra assemblies.
modifications to the c-frame
> Steve Nichols
> RV-4 Wings >>
Steve, I am interested in this, please write to me offline or better yet,
call me at 561-748-2429. I am always interested in some nifty new tools!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | antenna selection and placement |
Bob,
Your posts to the RV list indicate a high level of knowledge on
aircraft electronics. Can you recommend a good book or source for
information on transponder frequencies and operation, how the VOR
actually works, and other nifty facts? My background is in radio
communications, paging, cellular systems, telephony, and computers
(all careers that my parents should have advised me to avoid). I'd
like to know a bit more about this aircraft technology.
Thanks!
Bob
RV-8AQ, Empennage
AE0B
ARRL Technical Coordinator
Colorado Section
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rodney Boyd" <rboyd(at)dcccd.edu> |
Listers,
FYI
Air Salvage of Dallas is having their annual sale on Saturday 11 DEC 99.
Their website is : http://www.asod.com/
Rodney
-6A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ? on countersinking |
Bill,
Putting two pieces of metal together that are dimpled does require a large dimple/countersink
on the bottom piece. So countersink it deeper or you can get some
oversize dimples for the bottom sheet. I believe Cleveland tools or Avery
have them.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
In a message dated Thu, 9 Dec 1999 9:25:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, WHigg1170(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> Hello this should be an easy ? for the experience builder. On one of the
> Videos it was said to use a the rivet as a gage when you countersink a hole,
> keep it flush. But when I put a thinner peace of metal on top that was
> dimpled it wont sit flat. Should I countersink it deeper or dose the gap
> close up when you Rivet? My guess would be to countersink it a little deeper
> till the metal sits flat. Thanks Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NOTICE OF PROPOSED RULEMAKING (NPRM) |
I don't understand!!!
Merry Christmas to you also!!
Mike Robertson
"Das Fed"
In a message dated Thu, 9 Dec 1999 10:00:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, Al Mojzisik
writes:
>
> Part 0, Section 000 (a) 1(c)
>
> Section I - No pilot or pilots, or person or persons acting on the direction
> or suggestion or supervision of a pilot or pilots may try, or attempt to try
> or make, or make attempt to try to comprehend or understand any or all, in
> whole or in part of the herein mentioned Aviation Regulations, except as
> authorized by the Administrator or an agent appointed by, or inspected by,
> the Administrator.
>
> Section II - If a pilot, or group of associate pilots becomes aware of, or
> realizes, or detects, or discovers, or finds that he or she, or they, are or
> have been beginning to understand the Aviation Regulations, they must
> immediately, within three (3) days notify, in writing, the Administrator.
>
> Section III - Upon receipt of the above-mentioned notice of impending
> comprehension, the Administrator shall immediately rewrite the Aviation
> Regulations in such a manner as to eliminate any further comprehension
> hazards.
>
> Section IV - The Administrator may, at his or her discretion, require the
> offending pilot or pilots to attend remedial instruction in Aviation
> Regulations until such time that the pilot is too confused to be capable of
> understanding anything.
>
>
> Merry Christmas and to all a good flight!
>
> AL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
I am installing a Garmin 430 IFR GPS in my -8A. There isn't enough room forward
of the windscreen becuawe of the baggage door so I put my antenna on the glareshield.
Fits great and I don't have to worry about the antenna lead run.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
In a message dated Thu, 9 Dec 1999 11:20:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Louis Cappucci"
writes:
>
> listers,
>
> any recommendations on antennas (good ones to get, or bad ones to stay away
> from) and where to put them?
>
> in particular, is anyone using an IFR Approach GPS? did you put the antenna
> on the glareshield or on the fuselage?
>
> any ideas at all on where to place transponder, com, and marker beacon
> attenas are welcome (in front of spar, or aft? where to run the coax, etc.)
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a (tip-up)
> mamaroneck, ny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
Bob,
I have a pretty good book called
Avionics, Volume 1
Every Pilots guide to Aviation Electronics
By J.M.Ferrara
It is about the size of one of Tony Bengelis books and covers general theory
then goes into equipment theory, operation and installation of Antennas,
ADF's, Marker Beacons, Audio and switching systems,Transponders, glideslope,
DME etc.
I don't remember where I got it or what I paid for it. Possibly Vol 2?? is
available and updated. This edition is a little outdated, published 1985 by
Air and Space Co. P.O Box 240, Yardley, Penna 19067.
Andy from the bookstore would also be a good bet.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept 8, 1993
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com>
Date: Friday, December 10, 1999 10:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: antenna selection and placement
>Bob,
>
. Can you recommend a good book or source for
>information on transponder frequencies and operation, how the VOR
>actually works, and other nifty facts? I'd like to know a bit more about
this aircraft technology.
>
>Thanks!
>Bob
>RV-8AQ, Empennage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: salvage sale |
Folks,
In conjunction with the ASOD sale Chapter 168 EAA (Dallas) will be
holding a fly-in there.
Weather permitting, there will be at least one RV6A there (with me
in the passenger seat).
Hope to see a bunch there,
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson N822AR (reserved)
HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Strandjord" <emstrand(at)isd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 12/09/99 |
Did you try Vanguard? There is a link to it on Van's main page.
They sent me a very nice brochure with Lyle Hefels aircraft on the cover.
I got a quote from them and Avemco abouit builders insurance.
Vanguard $302
Avemco $275
I went with Avemco because of the name, and EAA stuff.
I thought I would then enhance it for full coverage when ready to fly.
I am re-thinking this since I recently heard that Avemco does not cover
first flight.
Eric (RV-8QB , just starting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | AutoCAD 3 view dwg |
Hi,
Does any have an RV-6 3 view drawing in AutoCAD DWG format?
If so, could you please e-mail it directly to me at
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NOTICE OF PROPOSED RULEMAKING (NPRM) |
It figures... You are a FED and even you don't understand the FARs... Must
have gone through section IV!!!
JUST KIDDING
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: MRobert569(at)aol.com <MRobert569(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, December 10, 1999 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: NOTICE OF PROPOSED RULEMAKING (NPRM)
>
>I don't understand!!!
>
>Merry Christmas to you also!!
>
>Mike Robertson
>"Das Fed"
>
>
>In a message dated Thu, 9 Dec 1999 10:00:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, Al
Mojzisik writes:
>
>>
>> Part 0, Section 000 (a) 1(c)
>>
>> Section I - No pilot or pilots, or person or persons acting on the
direction
>> or suggestion or supervision of a pilot or pilots may try, or attempt to
try
>> or make, or make attempt to try to comprehend or understand any or all,
in
>> whole or in part of the herein mentioned Aviation Regulations, except as
>> authorized by the Administrator or an agent appointed by, or inspected
by,
>> the Administrator.
>>
>> Section II - If a pilot, or group of associate pilots becomes aware of,
or
>> realizes, or detects, or discovers, or finds that he or she, or they, are
or
>> have been beginning to understand the Aviation Regulations, they must
>> immediately, within three (3) days notify, in writing, the Administrator.
>>
>> Section III - Upon receipt of the above-mentioned notice of impending
>> comprehension, the Administrator shall immediately rewrite the Aviation
>> Regulations in such a manner as to eliminate any further comprehension
>> hazards.
>>
>> Section IV - The Administrator may, at his or her discretion, require the
>> offending pilot or pilots to attend remedial instruction in Aviation
>> Regulations until such time that the pilot is too confused to be capable
of
>> understanding anything.
>>
>>
>> Merry Christmas and to all a good flight!
>>
>> AL
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 12/09/99 |
I think AVEMCO covers first flight IF you have 3 inspections spaced out
during the building and use the EAA flight advisor program. I will check
with my EAA source, Earl Lawrence to be sure, but that is how I remember it
being setup.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric M. Strandjord <emstrand(at)isd.net>
Date: Friday, December 10, 1999 1:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 12/09/99
>
>Did you try Vanguard? There is a link to it on Van's main page.
>
>They sent me a very nice brochure with Lyle Hefels aircraft on the cover.
>
>I got a quote from them and Avemco abouit builders insurance.
>
>Vanguard $302
>Avemco $275
>
>I went with Avemco because of the name, and EAA stuff.
>
>I thought I would then enhance it for full coverage when ready to fly.
>
>I am re-thinking this since I recently heard that Avemco does not cover
>first flight.
>
>Eric (RV-8QB , just starting)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Builders Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
MRobert569(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I am installing a Garmin 430 IFR GPS in my -8A. There isn't enough room forward
of the windscreen becuawe of the baggage door so I put my antenna on the
glareshield. Fits great and I don't have to worry about the antenna lead run.
I originally had my Garmin GPS antenna on the glare shield, fairly close to my
comm antenna which is a simple copper strip that runs up the canopy. The problem
was, everytime I'd transmit, the com signal would knock out the GPS and
would force a complete reset. The GPS antenna is now behind the roll bar and both
work fine.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3A For Sale |
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Rob Reece"
>
> >
> > Saw this on the RV-list and thought someone might
> know someone who would
> be
> > interested. Kinda spendy at $32K though!
> $32,500.
Rob:
It maybe a little high but I think it may be in line.
I have a friend that is trying to sell his RV-3. It
is the not the fastest RV-3, it is one of them. He
was the fastest RV till Dave Anders and Tracy Saylor
came along. This RV-3 was the Fastest RV in the
Sun-n-Fun 100 in the early '90s. It is equipted with
an IO-360 (Three Sixty) and a Constant Speed prop. It
does NOT have the wing spar mod done.
He is asking for $32K and I know it is worth it.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ? on countersinking |
Try on some scrap metal and investigate because different dies & operator bias
& tools all add up to different decisions to different persons. BTW allways
dimple in lieu of cutting your C/S if allowable......two dimples are "stronger"
( not quite the right word) than cutting a C/S...
randyl(at)pacifier.com on 12/10/99 11:48:15 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: ? on countersinking
> Hello this should be an easy ? for the experience builder. On one of the
> Videos it was said to use a the rivet as a gage when you countersink a
hole,
> keep it flush. But when I put a thinner peace of metal on top that was
> dimpled it wont sit flat. Should I countersink it deeper or dose the gap
> close up when you Rivet? My guess would be to countersink it a little
deeper
> till the metal sits flat. Thanks Bill
Bill,
You will commonly countersink for two scenarios; for rivets, and for dimpled
skins. The depth required is different for each. When countersinking for a
rivet then use a rivet for a guage and set the depth so that the rivet is
just under the surrounding surface as indicated by a slight silver ring
around the rivethead. When countersinking for a skin simply make yourself a
set of "countersink guages". These are small scraps of the various materials
you'll be riveting that you have already drilled and dimpled. You then fit
this piece on top of the
The common one's you'll need are for 3/32" rivet, 1/8" rivet, #6 screws, and
#8 screws. I used two pieces of scrap and put the 3/32" and the 1/8" on one
piece, one in each corner, and the #6/#8 on the other piece. Cost is $0 and
it will take you about 12 minutes to cut the metal, drill, and dimple it. I
made two sets of two, one out of .025 alclad and one out of .032. This might
not be necessary but it seemed to me that the thicker material would sit
deeper since it's thicker.
Lastly, use a sharpie to mark the holes for reference so you're guessing
which one you're using.
Hope that helps,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, early finish kit
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
>
>Bob,
>I have a pretty good book called
>
>Avionics, Volume 1
>Every Pilots guide to Aviation Electronics
>By J.M.Ferrara
Went to Amazon.com and found the following:
Avionics: Every Pilot's Guide to Aviation Electronics (Vol. 001)/554B
by John M. Ferrara
Our Price: $14.75
Holiday Note: This item may not arrive by December 24. Visit Gift Ideas to
find items
we can ship today.
Paperback Vol 001 (June 1989)
Aviation Book Co; ISBN: 0911720243
Availability: This title usually ships within 4-6 weeks. Please
note that titles occasionally go out of print or publishers run
out of stock. We will notify you within 2-3 weeks if we have
trouble obtaining this title.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Installation |
Will someone please take a few photos and attach them to an email to the
list showing an installed Navaid Servo in a 6, or 6A or any of the other
RV's. (under the copilot seat)
If anyone has an installation on a home page please publish your site address
thanks
Chet Razer and Miss Chiquita (with new shoes)
Dont archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | AutoCAD 3 view dwg |
Does any have an RV-6 3 view drawing in AutoCAD DWG format?
If so, could you please e-mail it directly to me at
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
Glenn,
Check out Tim Lewis' web site at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/plans.htm
at the bottom under Web links.
He has my drawings of a -6 you can download off off his site.
Laird RV-6 (IT'S ALIVE!!! I powered up the bus for the first time last night)
SoCal
PS Tim - Your 6A looks great, when you gonna fly?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Avon Park (AVO) is serving their monthly breakfast on Sun,Dec 12.One of the
best. Ollie, flying RV6-A N716R
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-3A For Sale |
Rob,
I saw the Bakersfield RV-3 you are talking about and you are right it is one
of the nicest -3s anywhere and it is superbly maintain when I saw it this
summer.
Bill Bruton
RV-8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Gauthier <blunist(at)flash.net> |
I am looking for anyone willing to show there RV project or completed
plane to me during my visit in the Santa Rosa, California area. I will
be in town for about 2 weeks beginning December 19.
Thanks in advance
Ted Gauthier
Pontiac, Mich
RV-6, waiting for wing kit
blunist(at)flash.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Builders Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: avionics books |
> Went to Amazon.com and found the following:
>
> Avionics: Every Pilot's Guide to Aviation Electronics (Vol. 001)/554B
> by John M. Ferrara
We've got a similar book called Aircraft Radio Systems. Its a little bit out of
date as
it doesn't cover all of the new GPS based stuff, but for the traditional type avionics
and radios, it is very in depth.
You can check out a more detailed description and the table of contents on our
site in
the electrical systems section.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port |
Joe:
Many thanks for picking this up. I am probably the one responsible for the
mix up. In my post about hoses I make a typing error from my notes on
hoses. It should have read Aeroquip 303 for the oil and fuel lines. We use
the 193 for breather lines or similar applications.
This is another good example of making sure you are using the right hose
for the application.
All of us on the list are trying to promote safety and we don't need errors
like this.
Thanks again
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----------
> From: Joe Waltz <TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Oil to Cooler Port
> Date: Friday, December 10, 1999 6:41 AM
>
>
> Stu,
> Do you mean "Stratoflex" 193 instead of your mentioned Aeroquip? My
> catalogs do not show an Aeroquip 193 but cross reference charts do say
> that Strato 193 is comparable to Aero 306. I hope that no one is using
> this type hose for fuel and oil lines as it is meant to be used in low
> pressure applications for instrument air and vacuum lines. At the
> least, read the explanations in the ACS catalog page 117.
>
> BTW, the cross reference sheet compares the following hoses:
>
> AEROQUIP STRATOFLEX
> MIL-H-6000 160
> 306 193
> 303 111
> 601 156
> 666 124
>
> TRAASH
> RV-8, DWH
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ? on countersinking |
Bill,
Cleaveland tool has dies they call "tank" dies. They do a deeper dimple to
compensate for the pro seal that would otherwise keep the rivet from being
flush. I just ordered a set today.
Bill Christie, Phoenix; RV8A, tanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: <MRobert569(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ? on countersinking
>
> Bill,
>
> Putting two pieces of metal together that are dimpled does require a large
dimple/countersink on the bottom piece. So countersink it deeper or you can
get some oversize dimples for the bottom sheet. I believe Cleveland tools
or Avery have them.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A QB
>
>
> In a message dated Thu, 9 Dec 1999 9:25:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
WHigg1170(at)aol.com writes:
>
> >
> > Hello this should be an easy ? for the experience builder. On one of the
> > Videos it was said to use a the rivet as a gage when you countersink a
hole,
> > keep it flush. But when I put a thinner peace of metal on top that was
> > dimpled it wont sit flat. Should I countersink it deeper or dose the gap
> > close up when you Rivet? My guess would be to countersink it a little
deeper
> > till the metal sits flat. Thanks Bill
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Pre-Heater |
Hi Listers,
I was thinking about getting one of those electric, stick on the bottom of
the oil pan heaters for airplane here in the wintery north.
Question: Could I, Should I, leave it plugged in for long periods of time.
I don't make it to the airport every day and am concerned about leaving it
plugged in all the time. Anyone have any experience with leaving it on for
several days or a week at a time or should I just assume I have to arrive
at the airport a couple hours early to warm the engine?
Bill Pagan
N565BW
"The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pre-Heater |
Maybe try and plug it into a 24 hour/ 7 day week timer. Our local Home
Depot carries such items. My son has one for his "old" stereo to use as a
wake-up alarm as the system was too old to have one. Only uses it on days
he has early classes. What a life! Wait until the AirForce gets him!
Marty Emrath, Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 1999 5:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Pre-Heater
>
> Hi Listers,
> I was thinking about getting one of those electric, stick on the bottom of
> the oil pan heaters for airplane here in the wintery north.
>
> Question: Could I, Should I, leave it plugged in for long periods of
time.
> I don't make it to the airport every day and am concerned about leaving
it
> plugged in all the time. Anyone have any experience with leaving it on
for
> several days or a week at a time or should I just assume I have to arrive
> at the airport a couple hours early to warm the engine?
>
>
> Bill Pagan
> N565BW
> "The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 12/09/99 |
Here is Earl Lawrence from EAA headquarters response. You have to use a
flight advisor and I will go out on a limb that you have to be an EAA member
as well in order to get Avemco to give this deal or am I mistaken again,
Earl? It would be rather tacky to ask your EAA flight advisor to do the
"First Flight" bit without even being a member. It is a rather extensive
program with a manual. We even sent our flight advisor and paid his way to
the EAA's flight advisors workshop. Costs some money, but it has already
paid off in a glitch free testing of an RV-6. Our EAA Chapter 75 has
several more in the hopper.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Lawrence <elawrence(at)eaa.org>
Date: Friday, December 10, 1999 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 12/09/99
>Cy:
>You are correct however even if you do not use a Technical Councilor you
can
>get first flight coverage if you use a flight advisor.
>Earl
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Cy Galley [SMTP:cgalley(at)accessus.net]
>> Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 1:44 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 12/09/99
>>
>> I think AVEMCO covers first flight IF you have 3 inspections spaced out
>> during the building and use the EAA flight advisor program. I will check
>> with my EAA source, Earl Lawrence to be sure, but that is how I remember
>> it
>> being setup.
>>
>> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>> (Click here to visit our Club site at
>> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Eric M. Strandjord <emstrand(at)isd.net>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Friday, December 10, 1999 1:42 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 12/09/99
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Did you try Vanguard? There is a link to it on Van's main page.
>> >
>> >They sent me a very nice brochure with Lyle Hefels aircraft on the
cover.
>> >
>> >I got a quote from them and Avemco abouit builders insurance.
>> >
>> >Vanguard $302
>> >Avemco $275
>> >
>> >I went with Avemco because of the name, and EAA stuff.
>> >
>> >I thought I would then enhance it for full coverage when ready to fly.
>> >
>> >I am re-thinking this since I recently heard that Avemco does not cover
>> >first flight.
>> >
>> >Eric (RV-8QB , just starting)
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pre-Heater |
On 11 Dec 99, at 18:38, pagan wrote:
> I was thinking about getting one of those electric, stick on the bottom of
> the oil pan heaters for airplane here in the wintery north.
>
> Question: Could I, Should I, leave it plugged in for long periods of
> time.
> I don't make it to the airport every day and am concerned about leaving
> it
> plugged in all the time. Anyone have any experience with leaving it on
> for several days or a week at a time or should I just assume I have to
> arrive at the airport a couple hours early to warm the engine?
Or, get a Red Dragon propane preheater and you don't need 120v
outlet, nor do you have to wait several hours.
Tim (got a Red Dragon) Lewis
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection Complete, Final preflight prep
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pre-Heater |
In a message dated 12/10/99 5:45:01 PM Mountain Standard Time,
pagan(at)cboss.com writes:
> I was thinking about getting one of those electric, stick on the bottom of
> the oil pan heaters for airplane here in the wintery north.
>
> Question: Could I, Should I, leave it plugged in for long periods of time.
> I don't make it to the airport every day and am concerned about leaving it
> plugged in all the time. Anyone have any experience with leaving it on for
> several days or a week at a time or should I just assume I have to arrive
> at the airport a couple hours early to warm the engine?
My RV doesn't have an oil pan heater, but a Cherokee 140 I used to own did.
It worked very well. I left mine plugged in all the time with no ill effects.
Some people will tell you all kinds of things that be wrong with this... You
could scorch the oil that sits on the pad... You could encourage
condensation...
In researching it a little bit, I found a website from Reiff heaters. They
make an oil pan heater and individual cylinder heaters that are less
expensive than Tanis. The Reiff website can be found at
http://www.execpc.com/reiff
Good luck!
Rod Woodard
Ft. Collins, Colorado
RV-3 for sale
RV-3B in the works (barely)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pre-Heater |
Perhaps this is not an original idea but someone told me of a way to use
an ordinary pager (beeper) as a remote switch. Apparently they call the
number and it turns on the heater so the engine is warm when they get
there. I don't have any real details but it sounds pretty cool and cant
be that complicated.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> There are several different "variations" of this concept out
> there. What I
> have done is made an "assembly" that will bolt on the arm of an
> existing
> Cleaveland or Avery type C-Frame dimpling tool. It uses two small,
> but powerful,
> air cylinders actuated by a small valve. The valve is triggered by a
> using a
> tube in your mouth to pressurise the valve. (similar to blowing
> bubbles in you
> drink with a straw) As many of you have already learned, dimpling is
> not the
> most exciting part of aircraft construction. This way makes it
> easier and
> faster and it does set complete, uniform and correct dimples.
> Total cost is still an unknown. The components are NOT in the
> aviation
> department at Home Depot. Believe me I've looked. I hope to come up
> with
> something soon and will share what I know.
>
>
> Hope this clears up some confusion
>
I wasn't confused, but I still am wondering...
If the system you have devised is "squeezing" the dimple between the top
and bottom half of the C frame tool, or is it hammering.
When the c frame is used in the normal way the top half does not have any
load applied to it in any way. It simply provides a means to keep the
mandrel aligned so that it can be hit by a hammer, rivet gun, etc.
The force is not applied between the top and the bottom of the c frame.
It is applied through the mandrel which is not mechanically connected to
the tool.
Commercially made dimple tools have yolks that are huge to be able to
handle the squeeze pressure that is required to make a nicely formed
dimple.
I am interested (I don't like dimpling either), but I am just wondering
if you are using the c frame tool to squeeze the top and bottom dimple
die together between the top and bottom half of the c frame tool or are
you hammering on the mandrel in some way?
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pre-Heater |
>
>
>Hi Listers,
>I was thinking about getting one of those electric, stick on the bottom of
>the oil pan heaters for airplane here in the wintery north.
>
>Question: Could I, Should I, leave it plugged in for long periods of time.
> I don't make it to the airport every day and am concerned about leaving
>it
>plugged in all the time. Anyone have any experience with leaving it on for
>several days or a week at a time or should I just assume I have to arrive
>at the airport a couple hours early to warm the engine?
>
>
>Bill Pagan
Bill,
I just put together an engine heater for my plane this week. I bought an
electric forced air heater for $24 at Home Depot, mounted a 5" flange (as
used in HVAC ducting) on it's face, then duct taped a length of aluminum
flex duct to it. I stick it up under the engine via the exhaust inlet and
set it on low (1300 watts). It warms THE ENTIRE ENGINE, not just the oil.
Just warming the oil certainly helps, but it may, or may not take care of
the coldsoaked crankcase, bearings, crank, etc. The heater has a thermal
shut off, and electrically the circuit in the hangar is breakered for 20
amps. The whole setup cost me less than $35. When I arrive in the morning,
the engine compartment is noticeably warmer than ambient temperature.
Warming the entire engine compartment also helps keep the battery happy and
it cranks the engine with more pep than when it's cold.
My inspection is tomorrow. First flight? Hmm...maybe next week.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
bleeding brakes, taxi tests, getting excited!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Airbox Filter Retainers |
I am installing the FAB and there are these little "filter retainers" that
are labeled va131-d on the plans. The plans show the nutplates attached to
them, yet they are to small to mount a nutplate. Has anyone else seen this?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airbox Filter Retainers |
You might be confusing parts - the small guys are for bending over the carb
mount nuts as a safety. The ones that mount on the nutplates are cut from
a strip of aluminum bent along the edge. My FAB kit is about 2 years old.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
>
> I am installing the FAB and there are these little "filter retainers"
that
> are labeled va131-d on the plans. The plans show the nutplates attached
to
> them, yet they are to small to mount a nutplate. Has anyone else seen
this?
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition Alternatives |
Electroair and Lightspeed are well known for their electronic ignition
systems. I understand there are other electronic ignition systems
available as info packages or kits. They are based on automotive
electronic ignition systems and use GM or Ford components. Is anyone
using an alternative system with a Lycoming engine? If so, what has
been your experience?
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
RV-6A flying past 135 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airbox Filter Retainers |
Thanks...makes sense now.......duh!!! Sometimes it takes another set of eyes
to figure these damn things out sometimes....
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airbox Filter Retainers
>
> You might be confusing parts - the small guys are for bending over the
carb
> mount nuts as a safety. The ones that mount on the nutplates are cut from
> a strip of aluminum bent along the edge. My FAB kit is about 2 years old.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
>
> >
> >
> > I am installing the FAB and there are these little "filter retainers"
> that
> > are labeled va131-d on the plans. The plans show the nutplates attached
> to
> > them, yet they are to small to mount a nutplate. Has anyone else seen
> this?
> >
> > Thanks..
> >
> > Paul Besing
> > RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pre-Heater |
Bill, last week I installed a Rieff HotPadd heater on the oil sump of my
RV-6. While we don't have much severe winter weather in north Alabama,
we can occasionally experience several consecutive days of subfreezing
temps. I just don't like to start the engine when the temps are below
freezing and the engine hasn't been preheated.
It is still too soon for me to reach any concrete conclusions, but it
appears the system is going to work well. A couple of days ago I went
flying and even though the air temp was in the thirties (F) the engine
was in the seventies. The heater warms the entire engine after the
heater has had several hours to work. It is not powerful enough to warm
the engine in just a couple of hours. I made some foam plugs for the
cowl intakes and the extension cord plugs into a receptacle just inside
the left cowl intake. I am running the heater through a thermostat
designed for a shop heater that I found at Lowe's. The thermostat is set
at 50F so the heater will drop out during the warm spells we have
occasionally.
More info to come as we progress into winter. I will try to get some
photos of the installation on the web site next time I have the cowl
removed.
Sam Buchanan (warm RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-----------------------
pagan wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I was thinking about getting one of those electric, stick on the bottom of
> the oil pan heaters for airplane here in the wintery north.
>
> Question: Could I, Should I, leave it plugged in for long periods of time.
> I don't make it to the airport every day and am concerned about leaving it
> plugged in all the time. Anyone have any experience with leaving it on for
> several days or a week at a time or should I just assume I have to arrive
> at the airport a couple hours early to warm the engine?
>
> Bill Pagan
> N565BW
> "The original RV-8A builders page on the web"
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A inspection time |
I just wanted to make one comment about Jim Sears' post. He said:
>3. I've found that the FAA truly does not like to do inspections. I
>tried through a friend at my local FSDO; but, I ended up hiring a
>DAR. He's one of the good ones, though. It still hurts my wallet. :-)
I hired a DAR too but would have had the FAA do it if our schedules had
meshed better -- in fact, from talking to a couple of the local FAA
inspectors, and also other RVers in the area who have had them do their
inspections, we are fortunate in this area to have a FSDO that is open to
doing them, and is not too terribly slow about it. My point is, some FSDOs
are better than others in this.
I sure do agree with Jim about the paperwork! Fortunately my DAR was really
good about walking me though that.
And congratulations Jim, you're almost there!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Hole |
where is the best place to cut that 2" or so hole in the
>firewall to put the cabin heat box ??
I personally think the back of the firewall recess is a good place for
this -- if you don't have a C/S prop that is. I wanted to put mine there
since it was the most central, but couldn't make it fit with the governor.
So the next best place I could find was between my feet. Makes for nice warm
toes -- for me that is. I'll go in and put some ducting and/or baffling
eventually for the passenger's benefit, but for now I have to roast my toes
to quiet the whining from the right seat. :-}
Also make sure you orient the air box so the heat blows down or sideways,
not up. I used Van's triangular box and almost did the opposite since I was
thinking more about the best routing of the scat tube from the muff to the
box. Then went DOH! Heat doesn't do you much good blowing up at the
instruments!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Face |
I just ordered the cheep airspeed indicator from vans because these have the
color arcs on them as shipped........I figured the cost of adding the stripes
and
flying behind a new airspeed indicator ( especially my first flight ) were worth
the cost ..........and pease of mind. I had a good used one too but opted for
the
Vans one.......cheers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 for Sale |
call me at 609-654-9587 thanks....phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Engine preheaters |
Bill,
The guy that I bought my C-182 from told me that he left the Tanis heater
plugged in from about November until April each year. No apparent ill
effects, although most people I talk to disagree with doing this.
Personally, I don't use it that often since I live in Memphis. However,
when I have plugged it in, the engine sure does turn over a lot easier!
Jerry Carter
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A inspection time |
Its great that we have DAR that is sympathetic to the homebuilders in this
area and is most accommodating to the homebuilders Industry. If it were left
up to the procrastinating arm of the regulation spouting other guys it would
never get done. They will not say it offically but once a DAR is appointed he
is supported by them not having time to do the job that we as tax payers are
paying for and I consider this double taxation
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing rear spar rivets |
I put the end ribs in one at a time and riveted them in place. Unless you
have really big hands, you can do it with regular buck bars.
On thing is that it's a tight squeeze and I used a couple of strips of
.025 to help the ribs get past the rear spar rivets as I was "slipping" them
into place.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Christine &
Arthur
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 2:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Wing rear spar rivets
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm having a problem riveting the 2nd inboard rib in to my
> otherwise completed
> -8 wings. The wing is completely closed and the flap brace is
> installed. On
> that rib, the 1/8th inch rivets that go through rear flange on
> the rib, the
Hi Greg,
We used a strip of steel about 3/8" thick and 1" wide and 4 1/4" long as a
dolly (bucking bar!), hard on the fingers but worked OK.
Cheers,
Arthur Whitehead
RV-8 left wing in the spare bedroom, right wing commenced.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Melvin C. Barlow" <melbarlow(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Durability of Variprime Primer |
On Dec. 7, 1999, WHigg1170(at)aol.com wrote:
>I am looking to here from builders that have used Variprime under there
>topcoats and have flown the plane for some time. Interested in hearing how
it
>is holding up and what you used as a topcoat. I have some doubts on its
>resistance to cracking when flexed. Thanks
My -4, completed in 1988 (S/N 114), was primed with Variprime on all metal
exterior surfaces. Since this product is an etching primer, no etch/alodine
treatment was necessary before primer application. We just cleaned
everything with scothbrite pads and detergent/water solution, then allowed
the parts to dry in the sun. This was followed by a solvent wipe just before
priming. Topcoat was Imron. After eleven years, (most of the time tied down
outside in Connecticut, USA) the finish is holding up very well. The only
places I've seen the Imron come off is around screw holes that are removed
for inspections, Etc. Most of those chips still have the primer showing, and
I just touch them up with an artist's brush.
I'd use the same process again...
Mel Barlow
N114 RV, IJD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | ReWanted: Hull Insurance for RV-3. |
Hi Johnny,
We have a lot in common.
AVEMCO would NOT insure an RV-3 for me last year, but decided to do
me a great big favor this year with a quote of $2375 for 1M liability
and $25,000 hull.
I have talked with Bob Mackey of EAA and he has had many complaints
such as yours and mine. He had dinner with the big shots of AVEMCO
the other night and has asked me to talk with....
Jim Lowerman (sp),
Executive VP of underwriting at AVEMCO.
1-800-637-5412
Then #4326
I'm supposed to report back to Bob Mackey with the results of
our conversation.
He was not pleased with my telling him I did not appreciate
having to pay $40 in dues just to be lead to slaughter at AVEMCO.
In the meantime, VANGUARD of St Louis has quoted me low $700's
for full coverage and ditto for Scott SkySmith of Iowa with AIG.
The hell with Avemco.
They are even going to lose little my Ercoupe account.
It ain't much, but it's the best I can do to boycott 'em.
Bob Urban
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> FWIW, Avemco wouldn't even quote me RV-3 insurance--the guy I talked to
> said they won't do it. This was about a year ago, maybe they've now
> decided to "talk about it" but charge so much nobody in their right mind
> would buy it. BTW, I had given him enough info for a quote, including
> pilot info (ATP, 4500+, 1400 T/W, 10 M/M) but when he came back to me for
> what I figured was a quote, he said no-go.
>
> This from the "official" EAA folks... am I missing something here?
>
> I'm not much of a shopper but ended up with Northstar Avation Insurance,
> Fargo. Premium this year is $225 for $1MM Liab and $288 for $25K
> not-in-motion ($250 ded) for total of $513. I'm self-insuring while I'm in
> the airplane... being perfect, nothing will happen during that time...:=))
>
> Their phone is 701-235-2041, talk to Marc or Bob Lepage if this looks
> interesting. They're "good guys".
>
> Johnny
> 49MM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Face |
Wicks Aircraft Supplies (1-800-221-9425) sells self-adhesive operating range
decals (yellow, green and white circles and a red strip). Part no. RM-1, page 09
in their 1999 catalog. $2.92.
Nice alternative to painting.
Finn
Larry wrote:
>
> Hi Builders, I need some help, would anyone out there know where I could get
> a airspeed face redone. It's a Edo Aire EA5175. I would like to get the
> color arches repainted to reflect RV-3 airspeeds.
>
> Larry Jenison
> RV-3 160 93JP
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Durability of Variprime Primer ( mine cracked all over ! |
)
I created an own the best example of a cracked veriprime / acrylic laquer
paint job airplane in the US (RV6A 150TT 2 years old). The entire paint job
has cracks and looks like a shattered car window. Heres what I did wrong to
create this mess.
1.) I properly prepped the surfaces.
2.) They were veriprimed.
3.) The veriprime was topcoated with sealer.
4.) Randolph acrylic aircraft lacquer was applied.
5.) Paint job was buffed and looked beautifull for about 1 year.
6.) Second year, the paint started cracking everywhere.
- The mistake I made, so I am told, is that you cannot apply acrylic lacquer
over veriprime. I was told that the lacquer reacted with the variprime /
sealer and caused this effect.
- The reason I chose acrylic laquer was that it was easy to put on and easy
to fix . I did my old Piper cherokee this way and it lasted a long time
but I did not use veriprime / sealer under the acrylic laquer on this
plane ).
*** For fun, take a little rubbing alcohol, and rub cured veriprime and see
what happens. Alternatively, let a piece of veriprimed aluminum sit in
water for a few weeks and then rub it with a cloth vigorously. Now try the
same experiment with an expoxy based primer.
- I am going to have my plane professionally re-painted. It will be done
with epoxy based primers and paint.
THE MORAL OF THIS STORY AS FAR AS I AM CONCERNED IS: WHATEVER PAINT SYSTEM
YOU CHOOSE, STICK WITH ONE MANUFACTURER THROUGH THE ENTIRE PROCESS, AND
FOLLOW THEIR RECOMMENDED PROCEDURES.
Scott Johnson / Chicago RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Face |
Correction: page 89.
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
> Wicks Aircraft Supplies (1-800-221-9425) sells self-adhesive operating range
> decals (yellow, green and white circles and a red strip). Part no. RM-1, page
09
> in their 1999 catalog. $2.92.
>
> Nice alternative to painting.
>
> Finn
>
> Larry wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Builders, I need some help, would anyone out there know where I could get
> > a airspeed face redone. It's a Edo Aire EA5175. I would like to get the
> > color arches repainted to reflect RV-3 airspeeds.
> >
> > Larry Jenison
> > RV-3 160 93JP
> >
>
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
I put an Oak 1 x 2 lever on mine. It is about 3 ft long and attaches to
the rear of the frame and presses down on the rod. Still needs one hand
but no hammering noise. I attached another stick to the bottom of the
table leg to foot operate it but never tried it.
>Yes, the C-frame can be made to bend
Everything bends under stress.
We need a device similar to the huge Gerber flat bed plotter I was shown
working at Boeing years ago. It musta been 5 ft by 10 ft and was making an
ink drawing of a wing section. Replace the pen with a plunger...
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
Hiya,
While sipping coffee in my little travel trailer at SCK and waiting for it
to warm up a bit I did some figgering on hoses and their costs.
What I looked at was Van's catalog near the back "Make your own hoses" and
compared to ACS's catalog on professionally made hoses.
ACS makes up teflon hoses with unlimited life for only very little more
than Van's prices for the materials - not including mandrels which as I
understand you should always use. I may be just not remembering well (the
catalog is in the trailer) but I don't think Van's mentioned what kind the
hose was.
In short, unless your time is worth very little or you just want to learn
how to do it, ACS has the better deal.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pre-Heater |
Listers:
I have an EZ Heat oil pan heater on my Citabria (I also had one on my Cessna
180). I wrap up the cowling in an old moving blanket so there is an
insulation factor and also this blocks the cowling inlet. I leave it on all
winter long. One day last winter I measured the free air temp just above the
cylinders in our unheated hangar. OAT in the hangar was 15 degrees F. Temp
in the cowling was 55 degrees F.
I've been very pleased with this method of engine heating and have installed
an EZ heat on my new Aero Sport 0-360 for the RV-4.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI (where it is usually seriously cold!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler |
For all of you who have emailed for pictures of my version of the
pneumatic dimpler, I finally bribed a dig. camera away.
You can find pictures at http://www.execpc.com/~gert/.
Again, this is just my version, may roads lead to Rome and dimpled
skins.
I know mine makes nice dimples but it needs to hit the dimple a few
times.
The rivets sit nice and flush and I have been commented on the nice
riveting job done on the wings. A good job starts with a good dimple.
Gert
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 Fuselage Jig Available |
RV -6 (or -6A) fuselage jig available in early to mid January. I am in
Pleasanton, CA, (San Francisco east bay area) This is a very solid jig made
per Van's plans. Used kiln dried fir, redwood and 3/4 ply with screws, lag
bolts and glue, except for stations aft of the baggage bulkhead and fwd of
the F-611 bulkhead which can be shifted fore or aft as required to get smooth
skin lines. It has to go to make room for my finish kit. Materials cost was
$300.00. All I'm asking for it is that the person who takes it will try to
pass it on to another builder. Contact me off line at HCRV6(at)aol.com or call
925-485-9358.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Snow <marksnow(at)cavemen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition Alternatives |
>
>Electroair and Lightspeed are well known for their electronic ignition
> systems. I understand there are other electronic ignition systems
> available as info packages or kits. They are based on automotive
> electronic ignition systems and use GM or Ford components. Is anyone
> using an alternative system with a Lycoming engine? If so, what has
> been your experience?
>
> Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX
> RV-6A flying past 135 hours
>
Will,
My name is Mark Snow I fly Dragonfly N48rv. I've been flying an alternative
electronic ignition for about 800 hrs. now. Three hundred hrs. with a VW
and about 500 with a Continental. I developed this system from off the
shelf MSD components. The system is split into two parts, an automotive
timing computer and the MSD motorcycle unit. I designed and built an
interface board to get these two parts to work together, which is built
into the timing computer box. I've had no trouble with this system, except
for an IC that became heat sensitive shortly after putting the unit into
service. The system is triggered by two hall effect sensors that I pot
into threaded tubes. I believe that the early light speed systems were
based on MSD ignition systems. I've had one of my systems in service on a
long ez for over 100 hrs. with no problems. The reason I don't advertise
this system very much is because I cannot build it and sell it for much
less than the light speed or Jeff Rose systems which was my intent when I
first designed this system about five years ago. I've got another system
based on the Dyna electronic motorcycle ignition which is a single box unit
which is smaller and lighter, also much cheaper. There is one engineering
issue; however, that would have to be addressed before this unit would be
suitable for aircraft use. If you or anyone else would be interested in my
system, or would consider being the test bed for the Dyna system, feel
free to e-mail me or call me at (505)-885-9105.
Regards,
Mark Snow
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Cool RV-6 Gif Animation... |
Hi Listers,
I was experimenting with my digital camera today and came up with a cool
GIF animation of an RV-6 Slider out at Livermore. Feel free to add it
to your website if you want, although be warned it's a little big at
about 325k bytes. The GIF is at:
http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Scans/RV/rv6.gif
The 640x480 source JPGs can be found at:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/picture.htm
These were originally taken at 1700x1500 and then cropped to 640x480
using Photoshop, explaining the slight grainyness.
Have fun! Now get back in that shop! :-)
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Builder
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Stiffners |
Stu:
Thanks for the info; really appreciate your response.
Jimmy Hill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Stablizer Incidence |
My RV6 in cruise flight requires some nose down trim. The trailing edge
of the trim tabe is approx 3/8 inch high causing the balance weights to
be lower than the stab. Is this normal ? Minimum drag would require them
to be in line. I am considering a shim to raise the leading edge of the
stab. Has anyone done this successfully ? Does this affect stablity at
either end of the speed range ?
Regards Peter (Toronto)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Stablizer Incidence |
>
>My RV6 in cruise flight requires some nose down trim. The trailing edge
>of the trim tabe is approx 3/8 inch high causing the balance weights to
>be lower than the stab. Is this normal ? Minimum drag would require them
>to be in line. I am considering a shim to raise the leading edge of the
>stab. Has anyone done this successfully ? Does this affect stablity at
>either end of the speed range ?
>
>Regards Peter (Toronto)
>
That's pretty much exactly what my RV-6 was like. If you put about
1/16" shim under the front spar of the HS you should be right on the
money. I didn't because I already had my fiberglass fairing molded to
the HS/VS.
Before I raised the HS 3/16" my trim tab was much higher during normal
cruise.
BTW, if the trim tab is high wouldn't the weights be HIGHER than the
stab??
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Killion <ckillion(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | RE: antenna selection and placement |
Bob,
QST magazine ran a good article in their August 1996 issue called 'An
Aeronautical Antenna Farm' which you may have seen. It's a good
condensed article packed with lots of aviation RF info.( I
mention it here for others on the RV-list to look at- if interested).
Some years ago I picked up 'Aircraft Radio Systems' by James Powell -
(IAP training book by IAP Inc. in Casper WY). Don't know if there is a
revision of this book or not.
Also, get Bob Nuckolls book 'The AeroElectric Connection' for your
RV8 project.
73's &
Merry Christmas!
Clay Killion (KB7CUA)
Phoenix, AZ
ckillion(at)uswest.net
RV6 preview plans / tool scarfing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | wing incidence RV-4 |
I finally drilled the 5/16 holes in the rear carry through spar. It now
looks as though I may have a slight twist in the right wing panel. I
never saw this before I drilled eventho I spent have a day going from
the left wing to the right wing with my level. I did have to raise the
right wing at rear to get edge distance clearance on the bolt. Then had
to lower the left wing with some force to keep the bubble centered.
The left wing looks good from the fuselage to wing tip with bubble
centered. The right wing has bubble centered inboard one foot from
fuselage. Go to the center of wing and 1/16" spacer must be put under
level at trailing edge to keep bubble centered. At tip rib 3/16" must
be put under level to keep bubble centered. I am pretty much disgusted
at this point but I will persevere. Anyone else had this problem?
I guess I'll just have to put up with a ugly trim tap on the wing.
Earl RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Stablizer Incidence |
Peter,
I maybe worthwhile to search the archive just so you're aware of the effects
of adjusting the HS incidence. Two points worth noting:
1. Van's design calls for a slight down elevator during cruise (according
to one posting. I have not confirmed this). This would add drag but pitch
stability is increased.
2. Your elevator trim band is now changed. In particular, you now have
less nose up trim authority. This would become critical during the landing
phase. Obviously John did this successfully. He must have plenty of up
elevator trim left to compensate for the HS adjustment.
A. Vu
N985VU
RV-6
At 04:59 AM 12/12/1999 GMT, you wrote:
>
>
>>
>>My RV6 in cruise flight requires some nose down trim. The trailing edge
>>of the trim tabe is approx 3/8 inch high causing the balance weights to
>>be lower than the stab. Is this normal ? Minimum drag would require them
>>to be in line. I am considering a shim to raise the leading edge of the
>>stab. Has anyone done this successfully ? Does this affect stablity at
>>either end of the speed range ?
>>
>>Regards Peter (Toronto)
>>
>That's pretty much exactly what my RV-6 was like. If you put about
>1/16" shim under the front spar of the HS you should be right on the
>money. I didn't because I already had my fiberglass fairing molded to
>the HS/VS.
>
>Before I raised the HS 3/16" my trim tab was much higher during normal
>cruise.
>
>BTW, if the trim tab is high wouldn't the weights be HIGHER than the
>stab??
>
>
>John Ammeter
>Seattle WA
>USA
>http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
>1975 Jensen Healey
>RV-6 (sold 4/98)
>EAA Technical Counselor
>NRA Life Member
>ICQ#48819374
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 tip up lift strut |
> "equivalent to Van's lift strut for the tip up canopy on a RV6".
Vans strut is:
Lift-O-Matic P/N 752819 0100N 262/97
15 7/8" center to center, 6 3/8" stroke, approx 25 lb force
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A tip up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 tip up lift strut |
>
>> "equivalent to Van's lift strut for the tip up canopy on a RV6".
>
>Vans strut is:
>Lift-O-Matic P/N 752819 0100N 262/97
>15 7/8" center to center, 6 3/8" stroke, approx 25 lb force
>
>Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A tip up
Some camper stores carry them for pickupcamper doors.
Have a good day!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 - done except for the bugs!
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stablizer Incidence |
In a message dated 12/11/99 6:38:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bramsec(at)idirect.com writes:
<< My RV6 in cruise flight requires some nose down trim. The trailing edge
of the trim tab is approx 3/8 inch high causing the balance weights to
be lower than the stab. Is this normal ? Minimum drag would require them
to be in line. I am considering a shim to raise the leading edge of the
stab. Has anyone done this successfully ? Does this affect stability at
either end of the speed range ? >>
I had the same situation so this is exactly what I did on my 6A. I added
1/8" shims under the forward HS spar. The fairing still fit, but just
barely. My balancing arms are now only about 1/8" above the HS tips and
stability in all regimes is unaffected.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Weight & Balance |
>It was called forward slipping or side slipping.
>
>Have we lost a bit of airmanship since those days gone by?
We've lost a lot of 'airmanship' since the Wright brothers first
flight. Thank God!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Bose Series ll for sale |
RVers,
I have a Bose Series ll headset that's about 4 years old for sale for
$750.00. It's battery powered. If interested, contact me off-list at:
bskinner(at)vcn.com
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
To the "Group": I have had a backorder on most of Van's gagues since
10-29-99.Has anybody been waiting longer? Perhaps your wait could determine
how far back my order is? Thanks Tom in Ohio ( P.S. The fuel gagues i do
have were worth the wait!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | band saw or scroll saw |
Hello,
I'm starting an RV-4 kit soon. While looking at band saws I also noticed
the scroll saw next to it. The scroll saw has a deeper throat, but only
accomodates 2" thick cut depth. Will the scroll saw work better because of
it's throat depth or is the 2" cut depth to small?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | 0320 A1A For Sale |
OK guys here's your Christmas gift to yourself...
I posted this once before and hoped I'd do better. There was a guy that
offered
$10,000 for this engine unassembled. I need to accept the offer now. If you
are
still out there let me know.
For Sale
Lycoming 0320-A1A - Ohr SMOH
Price:
Assembled and ready to go - $12,500 <--- will take $11,000
Not assembled - $11,600 <--- will take $10,000
History:
S/N 3475-27
Was in a Piper Apache N1386P
Complete logs
In service 3-1-56
Majored 6-22-61 1452 hrs TT after apparent gear up landing.
Top overhaul 5-16-75 at 2996 TT
This overhaul at 3566 hrs TT
Conical mount
Cases done at Divco
Yellow tagged rods, crank, and cylinders from Rick Romans
New cam and carb.
New Slick mags and harnesses
New Prop Governor
Fuel Pump
Oil cooler
Ring gear
Most all hardware re-plated
All applicable AD's complied with (inc oil pump)
Engine is just back from inspection. Not assembled.
Overhaul labor is paid for at Aeroparts of Arizona but not started yet.
If I kept the engine I didn't want it assembled until I was ready
for it. Have not specified HP yet so you could have 150 hp or 160 hp.
Pistons are already paid for. Overhaul will be by Bill Castles. A very
respected rebuilder at Phoenix, DVT.
To be complete you will need a starter, alternator and optional vacuum
pump.
Warranty - If installed in an airplane at DVT, overhauler will fix anything
that is not right. He guaranties that it will be right. No real time frame.
I've
seen several planes with his engines in them with no problems. I'm going
to use him on my other engine.
Prices are FOB Phoenix, AZ
Larry Olson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: band saw or scroll saw |
The scroll saw blade recipocates and will work well on basal wood and
model airplanes but not very well on aluminum. You need the band saw
preferably with a variable speed motor.
Earl RV4 still cutting aluminum
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm starting an RV-4 kit soon. While looking at band saws I also noticed
> the scroll saw next to it. The scroll saw has a deeper throat, but only
> accomodates 2" thick cut depth. Will the scroll saw work better because of
> it's throat depth or is the 2" cut depth to small?
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: band saw or scroll saw |
I have a scroll saw that I tried to use several times to cut parts for the
RV but had so much trouble I now either do it by hand with a hacksaw or take
my parts to visit someone with a bandsaw. I couldn't find the right
combination of speed and blade type to cut aluminum with the scroll saw and
the up-and-down motion of the blade often ended up grabbing the metal,
slamming it into the table (or my fingers) at the same speed the blade was
moving.
Maybe I just didn't know how to use the scroll saw, but I've never had any
trouble with bandsaws so I would go with that.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, almost done with wing kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 10:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: band saw or scroll saw
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm starting an RV-4 kit soon. While looking at band saws I also noticed
> the scroll saw next to it. The scroll saw has a deeper throat, but only
> accomodates 2" thick cut depth. Will the scroll saw work better because
of
> it's throat depth or is the 2" cut depth to small?
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
OK radio gurus. Can someone help me diagnose a problem. I have a TKM MK-11.
My radio has failed gradually over the course of about 3 hours flying time.
I can receive but not transmit.
The problems started as my transmissions, cutting in and out. Now when I key
the mike, the transmit light on the radio flickers for 1/2 second and then
goes dead. I'm not sure if I'm putting out anything for that first moment
when the light flickers. I am able to recieve clearly.
I checked the push-to-talk switch and the wiring going to the tray with a
meter and it seems good. The connection to the antenna is frayed a bit where
it solders onto the copper strip and needs to be replaced, but it is still
mostly intact.
Has anyone experienced this problem before?
Anyone want to guess at a possible diagnosis?
If it is the raido itself, does anyone have any experience with TKMs service
or warrantee department?
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
You need a wattmeter to see if you have any power coming from the radio
and to check the swr. You said you have frayed wire. Is it shorting the
center conductor to the shield? If you don't have access to a wattmeter
you should take it to someone who does.
Andy wrote:
>
>
> OK radio gurus. Can someone help me diagnose a problem. I have a TKM MK-11.
>
> My radio has failed gradually over the course of about 3 hours flying time.
> I can receive but not transmit.
>
> The problems started as my transmissions, cutting in and out. Now when I key
> the mike, the transmit light on the radio flickers for 1/2 second and then
> goes dead. I'm not sure if I'm putting out anything for that first moment
> when the light flickers. I am able to recieve clearly.
>
> I checked the push-to-talk switch and the wiring going to the tray with a
> meter and it seems good. The connection to the antenna is frayed a bit where
> it solders onto the copper strip and needs to be replaced, but it is still
> mostly intact.
>
> Has anyone experienced this problem before?
> Anyone want to guess at a possible diagnosis?
> If it is the raido itself, does anyone have any experience with TKMs service
> or warrantee department?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bobdz" <bobdz(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: band saw or scroll saw |
IMHO, a scroll saw is not at all suited to metal working. Use a band saw
with the necessary step pulley to reduce the speed and a metal cutting
blade.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/12/99 6:28:38 PM GMT Standard Time,
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
<<
To the "Group": I have had a backorder on most of Van's gauges since
10-29-99.Has anybody been waiting longer? Perhaps your wait could determine
how far back my order is? Thanks Tom in Ohio ( P.S. The fuel gagues i do
have were worth the wait!)
>>
I placed my order on 10-5-99. Received one Voltmeter, Ammeter Shunt and Oil
Pressure Transducer on 11-24-99. The order person had no idea when the rest
of the gauges would be sent. I just hope they don't send them one at a time.
The $4.00 crating charge is getting a little bothersome when they send small
parts one at a time.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Installing avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List Support Bidding Closed... |
Dear Listers,
If you made a winning bid on one of the items generously donated by Steven
DiNieri (capsteve(at)wzrd.com) and Archie (archie97(at)earthlink.net) this year,
then you should have already received an email message from me with
instructions on how to obtain each of your items. You will be receiving a
separate email for each item.
I want to thank everyone that sent in a bid, and especially Steven and
Archie for their generous contribution donation this year, as well as those
that made the winning high bids!
Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year to support the
Lists. The LOC #2 will be coming out at the end of the month, and there
will be quite a few additional contributors on it!
Thank you to one and all!
Best regards
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: band saw or scroll saw |
A jigsaw can be used with a fine toothed blade and rubbing wax on the blade
as a lubricant. Band saw is much the preferred saw however.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: bobdz <bobdz(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Sunday, December 12, 1999 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: band saw or scroll saw
>
>IMHO, a scroll saw is not at all suited to metal working. Use a band saw
>with the necessary step pulley to reduce the speed and a metal cutting
>blade.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Garrett" <garrett(at)thesocket.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List:Attaching skins |
I've already begun attaching the skins to the HS and remembered reading
somewhere that I might want to bend the edge of the skins slightly downward
to compensate for the bend that occurs when riveting the edge of the skin.
Has anyone out there got away with riveting the skins without pre-bending
the edges and been satisfied or should I go through the trouble of
removing the skin so I can bend them?
Any comments appreciated,
Matt
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: band saw or scroll saw |
I know a good bandsaw is indispenable however I have gotten a tremendous
amount of use out of a very inexpensive bandsaw that believe it or not
is powered by an ordinary 3/8 drill motor. I don't think B&D sell it
this way anymore but this tool is well built and tough.
I have cut 1.5" solid aluminum and 3/8 inch brass with it with hardly a
whimper.
I find the variable speed of the hand drill makes it easy to match the
blade speed to the material.
Look for one of these if you are on a budget. I only paid $35 for it
back in 1986 and it is still going strong.
Dan Peterman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Attaching skins |
If it's flush and your satisfied with it leave it alone. Unless your
real good at drilling out rivets you will probably have a few boogered
up and have to put in the next larger size rivet. Don't ask how I know.
When you get to the main wing skins and others you will want a small
bend along the edge. Avery Tools has several edge rolling tools that
start at $12.00 that make the job simple as well as good looking.
Good luck, Earl
Matt Garrett wrote:
>
>
> I've already begun attaching the skins to the HS and remembered reading
> somewhere that I might want to bend the edge of the skins slightly downward
> to compensate for the bend that occurs when riveting the edge of the skin.
>
> Has anyone out there got away with riveting the skins without pre-bending
> the edges and been satisfied or should I go through the trouble of
> removing the skin so I can bend them?
>
> Any comments appreciated,
>
> Matt
> RV-6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Attaching skins |
Usually, you don't need to do this unless you're overlapping skins or
butting them flush to each other. You don't need to do this on the HS
as they are one piece skins. I think your first need for this will be
when you roll the leading edges of the rudder and elevators. I own two
of these tools and I'd recommend the Avery tool (part #1042 for $12.75).
This tool allows you to control the amount of bend and to tweak it to
meet your needs. I also own the Cleaveland tool (Vosburgh edge roller)
and IMO, the Avery tool is a better tool at less than half the price of
the other.
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Empennage Almost Done, Wing Kit Arriving This Week!
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Garrett <garrett(at)thesocket.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 4:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List:Attaching skins
>
> I've already begun attaching the skins to the HS and remembered
reading
> somewhere that I might want to bend the edge of the skins slightly
downward
> to compensate for the bend that occurs when riveting the edge of the
skin.
>
> Has anyone out there got away with riveting the skins without
pre-bending
> the edges and been satisfied or should I go through the trouble of
> removing the skin so I can bend them?
>
> Any comments appreciated,
>
> Matt
> RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James S. Danda" <jdanda(at)secnetgroup.com> |
| Subject: | Lyc io360 Backfire |
I recently purchased a completed rv-6a with a Lycoming o360-A1AD.
It came from a Tabago at TBO. It has a c/s prop. The engine starts easily,
but
backfires on the ground and while at cruise(which is unnerving).
I've only flown it once to my home field. I cleaned and gapped the
spark plugs, but it still backfires. Here are some points of
data:
The previous owner had the mixture adjusted because of hot
starting problems.
On my flight home fuel-flow was high (14gph) and power was
low - at 25 squared we cruised at 14omph indicated at 2500
ft. When ran rich, because when we leaned the inflight backfires
increased.
The previous owner hasn't flown it in cold weather since the
mixture adjustment.
Compression appears to be good (measured from prop pull-through).
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Attaching skins |
I didn't buy the edge rolling tool until after riveting the skins on my
first wing, then I used the tool on a couple of the skins on my second wing.
The skins I riveted without doing any edge rolling actually look better and
feel just as smooth as the ones I used the tool on. Probably got a little
too agressive and caused the crease I see in the rolled skins.
In any case, I wouldn't worry about not rolling edges on either the tail or
wing skins. Just my opinion, but mine turned out fine without it.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, wings...
----- Original Message -----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:Attaching skins
>
> If it's flush and your satisfied with it leave it alone. Unless your
> real good at drilling out rivets you will probably have a few boogered
> up and have to put in the next larger size rivet. Don't ask how I know.
> When you get to the main wing skins and others you will want a small
> bend along the edge. Avery Tools has several edge rolling tools that
> start at $12.00 that make the job simple as well as good looking.
>
> Good luck, Earl
>
> Matt Garrett wrote:
> >
> >
> > I've already begun attaching the skins to the HS and remembered reading
> > somewhere that I might want to bend the edge of the skins slightly
downward
> > to compensate for the bend that occurs when riveting the edge of the
skin.
> >
> > Has anyone out there got away with riveting the skins without
pre-bending
> > the edges and been satisfied or should I go through the trouble of
> > removing the skin so I can bend them?
> >
> > Any comments appreciated,
> >
> > Matt
> > RV-6
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Going for the gusto...and drill press performance |
Well, I've done it now...I faxed my order to Van's for an RV-6 tail kit. :-)
My thanks to all those who patiently answered my crayon-level questions about such
matters as noise, IFR vs VFR, and other matters both interesting and mundane.
I
especially would like to thank James Clark of EAA Chapter 242 in Columbia, SC (a
stalwart member of the Palmetto State's "RV Factory" at Owens Field). He gave
up an
entire Saturday afternoon of building time to give me the grand tour of the Factory
and his tools and project (I also had the pleasure of sampling the country cuisine
at
the local "Lizard's Gizzard" with him). Thanks again, James, mind if I come up
a
couple more times?
As for the drill press...I've almost made up my mind about a bench-mounted drill
press...there's a Delta press that I like at the local Home Depot, and Grizzly
comes
well-recommended too. My question: the Delta press has a 1/3 HP motor (slowest
speed: 520 RPM), the Grizzly a 1/2 HP motor (slowest speed: 550 RPM). Does the
1/3
HP critter have enough "oomph" to do all the drilling I need for an RV-6? Or do
I
need the bigger one?
Or...there's a Grizzly press that has 12 speeds (down to 140 RPM) and a 3/4 HP
motor...for another $40...is it worth the extra $$ to go up to this one?
Semper Fi
John
Waiting on the tail feathers...reading the preview plans...getting the tools
together...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
>
>I recently purchased a completed rv-6a with a Lycoming o360-A1AD.
>It came from a Tabago at TBO. It has a c/s prop. The engine starts easily,
>but
>backfires on the ground and while at cruise(which is unnerving).
>I've only flown it once to my home field. I cleaned and gapped the
>spark plugs, but it still backfires. Here are some points of
>data:
>
>The previous owner had the mixture adjusted because of hot
>starting problems.
>
>On my flight home fuel-flow was high (14gph) and power was
>low - at 25 squared we cruised at 14omph indicated at 2500
>ft. When ran rich, because when we leaned the inflight backfires
>increased.
>
>The previous owner hasn't flown it in cold weather since the
>mixture adjustment.
>
>Compression appears to be good (measured from prop pull-through).
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Jim
>
Have you checked the timing?
I'm not an engine mechanic and don't plan to prove it by making a
stupid guess but that's the first place I'd start.
John Ammeter
Seattle WA
USA
http://members.home.net/ammeterj/
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Going for the gusto...and drill press performance |
Spring for the heaviest duty tool you can afford. whats another $40 if
it helps you fabricate the parts efficiently and safely. Don't forget
also to but a very high grade set of drill bits and keep them stored
safely in their index. I recommend the bits that have the small
centering tip; Eliminates wandering and misalignment
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted: C. FLA. Eyes & Brains |
If you are in central FL and need a place to fly to, I would like to have
your experienced eyes look carefully at my -6 as I final assemble it at
hangar 10, north side of MLB. I will be there everyday until flying except
Tue - Fri. this week.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 N136RC #24187 gettin' close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Paint Booth Fo' Sale |
Hello Listers,
Well, not exactly, but I have finished painting and have my lights and lots
of plastic left over from my paint booth for sale. Please respond off-list
for details. I am in central Florida, so if you are near here and plan to
paint your RV in a homemade paint booth, I'll save you money.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 N136RC #24187 hauled it to the airport today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Andy wrote:
>
>
> OK radio gurus. Can someone help me diagnose a problem. I have a TKM MK-11.
> If it is the raido itself, does anyone have any experience with TKMs service
> or warrantee department?
Andy, after several pleasant years experience with a TKM MK-11 in our
Warrior, I decided to install a TKM in my RV-6. I have received
compliments on the strength and clarity of the transmitter and the
receiver works very well. While the project was still in the shop I
thought I had a radio problem at one time (turns out it was a mic jack
that got twisted and grounded) so I returned the radio to TKM since I
had bought the radio used and thought it might need a checkup.
Obviously, when the techie at TKM benchtested the unit, all was fine.
They checked to be sure the radio had all the updates and sent it back
to me expeditiously at no expense to me. Just recently I asked TKM about
a new manual for the radio and they faxed me one within the hour.
By the way, the TKM in the Warrior is still going strong after seven
years of heavy service. In my opinion, the TKM is a great value in a
very reasonably priced radio.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 63 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
check the equivalent of a distributor cap inside the mags also if you have
sticky points or cracks in the coils inside the mags any of the above can
cause this backfiring.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
Check intake pipes for leaks at all joints. With gas turned off, you can
pressurize the intake system with a shop vac. Use soapy water to check for
leaks.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: James S. Danda <jdanda(at)secnetgroup.com>
Date: Sunday, December 12, 1999 6:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lyc io360 Backfire
>
>I recently purchased a completed rv-6a with a Lycoming o360-A1AD.
>It came from a Tabago at TBO. It has a c/s prop. The engine starts easily,
>but
>backfires on the ground and while at cruise(which is unnerving).
>I've only flown it once to my home field. I cleaned and gapped the
>spark plugs, but it still backfires. Here are some points of
>data:
>
>The previous owner had the mixture adjusted because of hot
>starting problems.
>
>On my flight home fuel-flow was high (14gph) and power was
>low - at 25 squared we cruised at 14omph indicated at 2500
>ft. When ran rich, because when we leaned the inflight backfires
>increased.
>
>The previous owner hasn't flown it in cold weather since the
>mixture adjustment.
>
>Compression appears to be good (measured from prop pull-through).
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Going for the gusto...and drill press performance |
You will not regret going to the larger motor with the slower speeds.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Date: Sunday, December 12, 1999 7:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Going for the gusto...and drill press performance
>
>Well, I've done it now...I faxed my order to Van's for an RV-6 tail kit.
:-)
>
>My thanks to all those who patiently answered my crayon-level questions
about such
>matters as noise, IFR vs VFR, and other matters both interesting and
mundane. I
>especially would like to thank James Clark of EAA Chapter 242 in Columbia,
SC (a
>stalwart member of the Palmetto State's "RV Factory" at Owens Field). He
gave up an
>entire Saturday afternoon of building time to give me the grand tour of the
Factory
>and his tools and project (I also had the pleasure of sampling the country
cuisine at
>the local "Lizard's Gizzard" with him). Thanks again, James, mind if I
come up a
>couple more times?
>
>As for the drill press...I've almost made up my mind about a bench-mounted
drill
>press...there's a Delta press that I like at the local Home Depot, and
Grizzly comes
>well-recommended too. My question: the Delta press has a 1/3 HP motor
(slowest
>speed: 520 RPM), the Grizzly a 1/2 HP motor (slowest speed: 550 RPM).
Does the 1/3
>HP critter have enough "oomph" to do all the drilling I need for an RV-6?
Or do I
>need the bigger one?
>
>Or...there's a Grizzly press that has 12 speeds (down to 140 RPM) and a 3/4
HP
>motor...for another $40...is it worth the extra $$ to go up to this one?
>
>Semper Fi
>John
>Waiting on the tail feathers...reading the preview plans...getting the
tools
>together...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | albertp(at)mail.smartchat.net.au |
| Subject: | Re: antenna selection and placement |
I have a ifr garmin 155gps and two comms. I mounted the top straight one just
behind the rear perspex and the gps antennA 3ft aft of it,just in front of the
empennage fairing.That was the distance reuirement according to the instal
manual. Works great. The other comm antenna is a bent comant one under the
belly. I put my transponder antenna in the belly under the bottom fuselage/wing
overlap where I can get at it thru the wing/fuselage fairing. I recall the king
instal manual said to locate the TXp antenna at least 3ft from the unit itself
and far away from the other comm antennas, so that was where it had to go,
without upsetting other antennas or fear of stepping onto it by pax or me. I
put the marker beacon ant. well forwards on the floor skin ahead of the pax
seat. Everything working ok.
good luck
albert poon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
Is it back firing or do you have a stuck valve?
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: James S. Danda <jdanda(at)secnetgroup.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 3:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lyc io360 Backfire
>
> I recently purchased a completed rv-6a with a Lycoming o360-A1AD.
> It came from a Tabago at TBO. It has a c/s prop. The engine starts easily,
> but
> backfires on the ground and while at cruise(which is unnerving).
> I've only flown it once to my home field. I cleaned and gapped the
> spark plugs, but it still backfires. Here are some points of
> data:
>
> The previous owner had the mixture adjusted because of hot
> starting problems.
>
> On my flight home fuel-flow was high (14gph) and power was
> low - at 25 squared we cruised at 14omph indicated at 2500
> ft. When ran rich, because when we leaned the inflight backfires
> increased.
>
> The previous owner hasn't flown it in cold weather since the
> mixture adjustment.
>
> Compression appears to be good (measured from prop pull-through).
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
If it is back fireing is it back fireing or after fireing?
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: James S. Danda <jdanda(at)secnetgroup.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 3:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lyc io360 Backfire
>
> I recently purchased a completed rv-6a with a Lycoming o360-A1AD.
> It came from a Tabago at TBO. It has a c/s prop. The engine starts easily,
> but
> backfires on the ground and while at cruise(which is unnerving).
> I've only flown it once to my home field. I cleaned and gapped the
> spark plugs, but it still backfires. Here are some points of
> data:
>
> The previous owner had the mixture adjusted because of hot
> starting problems.
>
> On my flight home fuel-flow was high (14gph) and power was
> low - at 25 squared we cruised at 14omph indicated at 2500
> ft. When ran rich, because when we leaned the inflight backfires
> increased.
>
> The previous owner hasn't flown it in cold weather since the
> mixture adjustment.
>
> Compression appears to be good (measured from prop pull-through).
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Joe,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A working on canopy
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hello,
As many of you know, I am going to start an RV-4 in the next couple weeks.
I have the opportunity to buy an empennage kit and a wing kit that are
nearly 9 years old and not opened. If any of you know whether there have
been significant updates since then making it not worthwhile to purchase an
'aged' kit like this....please contact me. I would love to save a few bucks
and buy this older kit, but I don't want to spend another year building it
if the old kit is far from up to date.
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: C. FLA. Eyes & Brains |
Rick
Where are you located? I am in Orlando, and me and other builders
here, I am sure would like to visit..
Bert
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
Tom: I have some also ordered oct 2, 99. Has anybody received the back order
of august for the strut fairings for RV-6A
Harvey sigmon RV-6AQB
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 1:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vans Gagues
>
> To the "Group": I have had a backorder on most of Van's gagues since
> 10-29-99.Has anybody been waiting longer? Perhaps your wait could
determine
> how far back my order is? Thanks Tom in Ohio ( P.S. The fuel gagues i do
> have were worth the wait!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Person wanting to buy a nice 6A |
I met a very nice gentleman named John the other day on the ramp at Pine
Mountain Lake (Groveland), CA. He lives in Lodi, CA and really wants to buy
a nice 6A, preferably with an IO-360 c/s and full gyros (he and his wife want
the side-by-side nose dragger arrangement only, so don't even think about
dumping your obsolete 4s ;
) ). They are interested in traveling with it all
over North America. Because of his age he doesn't feel he has time to build,
but has ready cash money for the right plane in the $50K range. If you can
help him, call him direct at 209-334-2747.
Thx
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Offset elevator alignment? |
As an EAA Tech Counselor, I would like to know if
anyone has heard about or done the following:
Putting a 1/8" offset in the right elevator for
descents (trailing edge down 1/8" from level).
The theory that I was told:
With the aircraft in a descent using the trim tab, the
trim tab acts like a mini 'aileron' and inputs a very
slight roll to the right. The slight offset in the
right elevator compensates for the left elevator trim
tab.
My comments:
My airplane was built exactly to plans. I did not add
any offset to anything. I do not change the trim for
a decent. The only thing that I see that this will do
is increase drag at the upper cruise speeds of the RV.
Am I missing something?
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
Check for crossfire in the distributor of the magneto. Voltage required to
fire a lean mixture is some higher and at altitude spark will flash over much
easier.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 old vs new |
There should be little or no difference in the RV4 kit that is 8 years old
from one that was made a year ago. The gear legs have been lengthened
slightly, early kits had a slightly different cowling and nacelle cheeks. The
prepunching never really got to the RV4--I say go for it--I doubt you will
regret it. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "et" <et(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Going for the gusto...and drill press performance |
Wow,
After a couple years of lurking and asking questions, my first contribution
(hey its a start).
Its funny, cause I just spent the whole weekend putting together my grizzly
tool order and building
a castered "tool island". I spent a lot of time researching tools, and
debating on spending a lot of money
or getting the Grizzly stuff.
I opted for the Grizzly12 speed heavy duty model and am very pleased. The
thing is built like a tank and
must weigh 250lb. Got the bench top model, to go on a tool island. Get the
floor model if you have the
space (extra 20 bucks). Only thing I didnt like on the unit was the spindle
return spring. It works,
but is a bit fidgety and required a bit of careful adjustment.
Also ordered the Horizontal/vertical metal cutting bandsaw (low rpm)...works
in both horiz and vertical
planes and is great for jigging up repetitive cuts on aluminum.
Ordered the 42" Belt sander and new slimline 6" grinder. Was very pleased
with everything, especially
considering my order was about 550.00, and that included a bunch of
accessories.
The stuff wasnt packaged too well , the assembly instructions were terrible,
the quality of the castings is
not the greatest, but for the money I am very pleased. BTW it took me about
1 full day to assemble all
the stuff (8 or so hr). Will they hold up...I think so. Grizzly also
appears to have good service dept, but
no first hand experience there yet.
I went thru the whole tool research thing, and have just about finished
aquisition and garage prep.
Get the avery catalog if you dont have it yet. One stop shopping for a lot
of odds and ends, and is
and education in itself if you are new.
Hope this helps.
Eric Tauch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aileron trailing edge |
I'm probably not going to like the answer to this, but here goes: I've
reached the point of riveting an aileron together and noticed a slight bow in
the center of the trailing edge when I look down it. Doesn't appear to be
greater that 1\4 "at the most. Should I melt it down and start over or is
this acceptable?
Thanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "riveter" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
My recently built RV4 wings had pre drilled spars and wing skins as well as
pre drilled rib lightening holes. This was all done by the builder in the
old days. I am not sure when the pre drilling started, but I don't think it
was 8 years ago.
Mark McGee
riveter(at)ix.netcom.com
http://pweb.netcom.com/~riveter/homepage.html
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Shook
> Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 10:07 PM
> To: rv - list
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 old vs new
>
>
> Hello,
>
> As many of you know, I am going to start an RV-4 in the next couple weeks.
> I have the opportunity to buy an empennage kit and a wing kit that are
> nearly 9 years old and not opened. If any of you know whether there have
> been significant updates since then making it not worthwhile to
> purchase an
> 'aged' kit like this....please contact me. I would love to save
> a few bucks
> and buy this older kit, but I don't want to spend another year building it
> if the old kit is far from up to date.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
Jim I had a similar problem. Had a leak at the fuel divider manifold
on top of the IO-360. After the A&P replaced it I had backfire when
running on the ground. never noticed it in the air. I believe they said
some of the cylinders were too lean. After adjusting the mixture it
cleared up.
"James S. Danda" wrote:
>
>
> I recently purchased a completed rv-6a with a Lycoming o360-A1AD.
> It came from a Tabago at TBO. It has a c/s prop. The engine starts easily,
> but
> backfires on the ground and while at cruise(which is unnerving).
> I've only flown it once to my home field. I cleaned and gapped the
> spark plugs, but it still backfires. Here are some points of
> data:
>
> The previous owner had the mixture adjusted because of hot
> starting problems.
>
> On my flight home fuel-flow was high (14gph) and power was
> low - at 25 squared we cruised at 14omph indicated at 2500
> ft. When ran rich, because when we leaned the inflight backfires
> increased.
>
> The previous owner hasn't flown it in cold weather since the
> mixture adjustment.
>
> Compression appears to be good (measured from prop pull-through).
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | wacky Isspro fuel gauge |
Listers,
Has anyone found the Isspro fuel gauges, coupled to Van's float senders, to
be reluctant to indicate when they are cold? The gauge for my left tank
stays at the empty position then pops to full (which the tank is now) at
some time a bit later...whenever it feels like it and usually when I'm not
looking at it. The wiring to the sender is intact as far as I can tell.
The gauge worked fine when I calibrated it to the sender many months ago
during tank construction...in the warm summer. Once the needle starts to
indicate correctly, it stays this way and reads normally. Maybe just a bad
gauge movement? I might try to heat the bugger up with a heat gun and see it
it behaves differently when the bus is powered up.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
airworthiness inspection done! Time to fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List:Attaching skins |
Matt,
I wouldn't remove the skins. I'd just finish riveting and see how it looked
when it was done. Those are pretty thick skins and probably will look just
fine. The thinner skins will sometimes curl up when riveted at the ends,
but the thicker ones are OK.
Steve Soule
RV-6A panel stuff on hold waiting for Van's delivery
-----Original Message-----I've already begun attaching the
skins to the HS and remembered reading
somewhere that I might want to bend the edge of the skins
slightly downward
to compensate for the bend that occurs when riveting the
edge of the skin.
Has anyone out there got away with riveting the skins
without pre-bending
the edges and been satisfied or should I go through the
trouble of
removing the skin so I can bend them?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wacky Isspro fuel gauge |
>
>Listers,
>
>Has anyone found the Isspro fuel gauges,
I had strange goings on with them. I first thought the access plates might
not be getting a good ground. After taking the tanks off and running
ground strap from the access plate to the tank they worked great. Then the
other day the right one started to act up again. After checking everything
I could think of, I sent off for a spare gauge to test with. Let us know
what you find.
Have a good day!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 - done except for the bugs!
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: band saw or scroll saw |
I have great luck with a jig saw...Don't laugh....I have a Delta band saw - two
of em one with a metal blade & the other with a wood blade. I am a tool
collector/hoarder by nature and my preferance for a quick cut has been a jig
saw with a fine tooth metal blade. Low tech but it takes no room to store in my
shop loke the other band saws. I can mount it up-side-down in a vice too.......
e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net on 12/12/99 01:59:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: band saw or scroll saw
The scroll saw blade recipocates and will work well on basal wood and
model airplanes but not very well on aluminum. You need the band saw
preferably with a variable speed motor.
Earl RV4 still cutting aluminum
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm starting an RV-4 kit soon. While looking at band saws I also noticed
> the scroll saw next to it. The scroll saw has a deeper throat, but only
> accomodates 2" thick cut depth. Will the scroll saw work better because of
> it's throat depth or is the 2" cut depth to small?
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot-Static Woes Part I |
Hi all,
I wanted to relate my saga of getting my pitot-static and Mode C check for
my IFR equipped RV6A.
I was amazed. I expected the guy to spend maybe an hour and connect
something to the pitot and static systems to do the check, but...
He spent over two hours, he has to return next Tuesday to finish up. First
up he took the altimeter out to check it on his test equipment. He said
that United is your best bet for IFR equipped aircraft in his opinion. He
has had a hard time getting the UMA stuff to pass leak tests. I used UMA
for my VVI and airspeed indicators(I was not able to find a small United
gauge) while I had a United Altimeter. The altimeter checked right on all
the way up to 20,000'. The VVI also tested out pretty good. The airspeed
indicator was off about 10-15 knots in the upper end of the scale(160
knots), however, it was very accurate in the low ranges of up to 100 knots.
I guess if I had error I would rather have it in the upper scale. I should
note that these errors were instrument related errors, and were determined
with the instruments out of the airplane. We did not have enough time to
check for installation error. That will be up on Tuesday.
I purchased my transponder from Van's. It is a Bendix-King KT-76A. Make
sure you get Mod 7 on this box though because you can't get signed off
without it. I think they will ship them like that from King, but if yours
has been sitting a while, you might want to see if it has been applied. It
will be stamped "Mod 7" on the bottom of the box(not the tray) if it has
been applied. The signal strength of my unit was off and I had to have that
adjusted by a local avionics shop. We then tested my encoder. Make sure
you install this in a location that can be readily serviced when the top
panel is on. This has to be checked and potentially adjusted every two
years. It took an amazing 10 minutes before it even started transmitting
Mode C. After that it was right on. My encoder was a Terra unit.
Next Tuesday, the inspector is returning to check my installation error and
leak check my instruments. I'll let you guys know how that turns out.
Tot ziens,
Gary
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 old vs new |
Bill,
I baught an older kit to save a few bucks and it worked ourt very well. The
only big change to the 4 was in the tail of the fuse where the HS attaches.
The 410 bulkhead was split and the top half moved forward about 3 inches to
make room for an RV6 style HS forward spar attach. I had to modify my kit
to match the new plans but it wasn't much work. The predrilling on the wing
skins only saves you from marking the skin, you still have to run a drill
through every hole.
Good luck!
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse almost done
Engine being rebuilt
I need a prop!
>From: "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv - list"
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 old vs new
>Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 22:07:10 -0500
>
>
>Hello,
>
>As many of you know, I am going to start an RV-4 in the next couple weeks.
>I have the opportunity to buy an empennage kit and a wing kit that are
>nearly 9 years old and not opened. If any of you know whether there have
>been significant updates since then making it not worthwhile to purchase an
>'aged' kit like this....please contact me. I would love to save a few
>bucks
>and buy this older kit, but I don't want to spend another year building it
>if the old kit is far from up to date.
>
>Thanks
>Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Offset elevator alignment? |
In a message dated 12/12/99 20:58:51, rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
<<
My comments:
My airplane was built exactly to plans. I did not add
any offset to anything. I do not change the trim for
a decent. The only thing that I see that this will do
is increase drag at the upper cruise speeds of the RV.
Am I missing something? >>
I agree. With a differential angle on the elevators or the ailerons, they
will simply go to a neutral position, balanced up vs down, when you release
the stick or pedals.
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trailing edge |
In a message dated 12/13/99 0:06:36, DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com writes:
I'm probably not going to like the answer to this, but here goes: I've
reached the point of riveting an aileron together and noticed a slight bow in
the center of the trailing edge when I look down it. Doesn't appear to be
greater that 1\4 "at the most. Should I melt it down and start over or is
this acceptable?
Thanks, Dave >>
Depends on whether you want to fly or build.
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing incidence RV-4 |
Don't automatically think you may need a trim tab (as described in your last
posting).I would wait untill your are completely finished & flying.......when
you consider your NET total allignment pluses & minuses from the total flying
ship....you may be closer to the optimal allignment than you think...There is
also the spring bias thingies for the ailron that VANS sells ($ 11.00).....There
are also concentric sleeves (Cessna wings have 'em)
or bushings that have a hex face that you insert in your rear spar hole....you
can do so fine tuning with incidence adjustment with these fellas.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wacky Isspro fuel gauge |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Has anyone found the Isspro fuel gauges, coupled to Van's float senders, to
>be reluctant to indicate when they are cold? The gauge for my left tank
>stays at the empty position then pops to full (which the tank is now) at
>some time a bit later...whenever it feels like it and usually when I'm not
>looking at it. The wiring to the sender is intact as far as I can tell.
>The gauge worked fine when I calibrated it to the sender many months ago
>during tank construction...in the warm summer. Once the needle starts to
>indicate correctly, it stays this way and reads normally. Maybe just a bad
>gauge movement? I might try to heat the bugger up with a heat gun and see it
>it behaves differently when the bus is powered up.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>airworthiness inspection done! Time to fly.
>
Brian,
The SW senders stick. I found out about this when I tried to calibrate
my EI guages. I would add fuel and add fuel and there would be no
indication.
Starting the engine always unsticks them and vigorously shaking the wings
works well too.
Are you going to have a flying 8 for a Christmas present?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Still in the paint shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
I vote you buy the tool from Bob with the 2 rollers. You want to bend
prior to dempling so the rollers don't catch on the demples. Want just a
little bend, so practice on scrap.
I bought the joggle tool with the four offset rollers & used it. I
overstressed the edge & got a coragated look.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
==========================================================
writes:
>
>I've already begun attaching the skins to the HS and remembered
>reading
>somewhere that I might want to bend the edge of the skins slightly
>downward
>to compensate for the bend that occurs when riveting the edge of the
>skin.
>
>Has anyone out there got away with riveting the skins without
>pre-bending
> the edges and been satisfied or should I go through the trouble of
>removing the skin so I can bend them?
>
>Any comments appreciated,
>
>Matt
>RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
I ordered mine 7.31.99 , Have all but the MP. Guess I will have to get
another brand for the CHT, They keep saying it is on the drawing boasrd.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
============================================================
writes:
>
>To the "Group": I have had a backorder on most of Van's gagues since
>10-29-99.Has anybody been waiting longer? Perhaps your wait could
>determine
>how far back my order is? Thanks Tom in Ohio ( P.S. The fuel gagues i
>do
>have were worth the wait!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
<<
>Compression appears to be good (measured from prop pull-through).
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Jim
>
Have you checked the timing?
I'm not an engine mechanic and don't plan to prove it by making a
stupid guess but that's the first place I'd start.
>>
I AM an engine mechanic and I agree...check that mag timing.. Both of them.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom O'Connor" <toconnor(at)harbornet.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Prop for sale: |
72" Hartzell "compact" constant speed. 100 hrs.
total since factory new. Hub ser. nbr. CH 32389 A.
Governor drive and oil feed line included.
$3500. WA 253-265-2502
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arthur J. Treff" <atreff(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel training |
Listers,
Anybody know of an instructor (with plane) doing tailwheel transition
training in FL? Hopefully west coast? Been hitting the AOPA guide hard and
coming up with dead ends. Thanx.
Arthur J. Treff
RV-8 Preview plans
Bradenton, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching skins |
Anither trick for the .032 skins is to block sand any ripples that might spring
up during the riveting process. I rolled the edge, dimpled and back rivited &
finished with a light...real light block sanding. The object was to reduce what
little ripple there was, not hide anything. The ammount sanded was so small, I
think I still have .0315 there. The finished product looks perfect.
donspawn(at)juno.com on 12/13/99 11:34:07 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Attaching skins
I vote you buy the tool from Bob with the 2 rollers. You want to bend
prior to dempling so the rollers don't catch on the demples. Want just a
little bend, so practice on scrap.
I bought the joggle tool with the four offset rollers & used it. I
overstressed the edge & got a coragated look.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
=========================================================
writes:
>
>I've already begun attaching the skins to the HS and remembered
>reading
>somewhere that I might want to bend the edge of the skins slightly
>downward
>to compensate for the bend that occurs when riveting the edge of the
>skin.
>
>Has anyone out there got away with riveting the skins without
>pre-bending
> the edges and been satisfied or should I go through the trouble of
>removing the skin so I can bend them?
>
>Any comments appreciated,
>
>Matt
>RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Edge distance |
!.8 is allowable for smaller holes in structural applications, for a
nonstructural part like a panel cover I doubt you will ever have a problem. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel training |
Arthur,
Try the NAFI site: http://www.nafinet.org/ There is an option to find an
instructor, by state, on their home page. This will probably be your best
place to start. You can also try the EAA Flight Advisor site and talk to an
FA in your area. He will hopefully either be a CFI or know of one you could
call: http://www.eaa.org/ Go to the Members Only site and look for the
Flight Advisor section.
Gary Baker
NAFI #7277
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
> Listers,
>
> Anybody know of an instructor (with plane) doing tailwheel transition
> training in FL? Hopefully west coast? Been hitting the AOPA guide hard
and
> coming up with dead ends. Thanx.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel training |
auther
if you can wait till april, i will probably sponsor van's transition
trainning program again. it consist of mike seager and the rv 6 tail dragger
for a week prior to sun-n-fun. last year i got 5 hours transistion time,
that's why i'm building a 6a, they put the little wheel out back, before
they knew better.
scott
tampa
fuse innerds
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tailwheel training |
You might check Venice airport, just south of you. They had a Citabria at
the flight school there a few years back when my folks lived there. There
also is/was an akro instructor (Bill Thomas, I think) who moved his school
there during the winter months.
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved)
Anybody know of an instructor (with plane) doing tailwheel transition
training in FL? Hopefully west coast? Been hitting the AOPA guide hard and
coming up with dead ends. Thanx.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel training |
Arthur,
Not only do I know where you can get it done, but this instuctor is a
pilot's pilot. Tailwheel sign off in a decathlon. As anyone who has taken
tailwheel training can tell you , there are some pretty frustrating landings
(if you want to call them that) and you can get very upset with yourself.
This guy is great for relieving that by showing you the other fun aspects of
Decathlon flying (a e r o b a t i c s). :) He's great, and fairly cheap
too. It's in Zephyrhills. Email me if you're interested, I'll dig up the
name and number. Oh, name is Bob Knapp.....and he owns an RV-6 and just
bought an RV-4.
Bill
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Arthur J. Treff
>Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 1:12 PM
>To: RV Posting
>Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel training
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Anybody know of an instructor (with plane) doing tailwheel transition
>training in FL? Hopefully west coast? Been hitting the AOPA
>guide hard and
>coming up with dead ends. Thanx.
>
>
>Arthur J. Treff
>RV-8 Preview plans
>Bradenton, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 old vs new |
I recall someone had a posting about an old kit they bought and the
paper wrapped around the skins had some slight corrosion or something
like that and it took a little effort to clean the skins. I don't think
there have been many changes in that time period. I bought my RV4 kit
in August of 93 and there have been a few mod's but not many. I would
suggest you get the latest version of plans which will have all of the
updates. Also the RVators have the mod's. If I had the choice to save
a substantial amount of money I would go with the old kit provided it
is unopened to assure you have all the parts. If possible take the top
off the box and inspect it.
Hope this helps, Earl
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> As many of you know, I am going to start an RV-4 in the next couple weeks.
> I have the opportunity to buy an empennage kit and a wing kit that are
> nearly 9 years old and not opened. If any of you know whether there have
> been significant updates since then making it not worthwhile to purchase an
> 'aged' kit like this....please contact me. I would love to save a few bucks
> and buy this older kit, but I don't want to spend another year building it
> if the old kit is far from up to date.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Offset elevator alignment? |
If it had a slight roll with trim tab up or down, would It not try to
roll in the other direction when trim was neutral and a curved trailing
edge on the other elevator.
"Gary A. Sobek" wrote:
>
>
> As an EAA Tech Counselor, I would like to know if
> anyone has heard about or done the following:
>
> Putting a 1/8" offset in the right elevator for
> descents (trailing edge down 1/8" from level).
>
> The theory that I was told:
>
> With the aircraft in a descent using the trim tab, the
> trim tab acts like a mini 'aileron' and inputs a very
> slight roll to the right. The slight offset in the
> right elevator compensates for the left elevator trim
> tab.
>
> My comments:
>
> My airplane was built exactly to plans. I did not add
> any offset to anything. I do not change the trim for
> a decent. The only thing that I see that this will do
> is increase drag at the upper cruise speeds of the RV.
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> So. CA, USA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Avionics suggestions |
I am planning a *very* light IFR panel with:
NAV with GS
COMM radio
IFR GPS
Marker beacon receiver
My question is about tying together the audio. I won't use all of the
channels/features of a full audio panel/MB receiver like a KMA-24 or
26. Does anyone know of a good way to hook the NAV, COMM, MB and
intercom without an expensive audio panel? Is there a simple unit out
there? The simplest I've seen is KMA-20 but I could use even less.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics suggestions |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>I am planning a *very* light IFR panel with:
>
>NAV with GS
>COMM radio
>IFR GPS
>Marker beacon receiver
>
>My question is about tying together the audio. I won't use all of the
>channels/features of a full audio panel/MB receiver like a KMA-24 or
>26. Does anyone know of a good way to hook the NAV, COMM, MB and
>intercom without an expensive audio panel? Is there a simple unit out
>there? The simplest I've seen is KMA-20 but I could use even less.
>
I have a similar panel and had similar concerns. I decided to give the
RST audio panel/intercom a try. At the price they ask I was skeptical
but it was SO little that I decided to try it and change to something
else if I didn't like it.
The audio panel and intercom work great and I prefer toggle switches to
buttons anyway (easier to manipulate in turbulence). You do have to
build it and it is not the easiest kit I have seen but it is very doable.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
December 07, 1999 - December 13, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hm