RV-Archive.digest.vol-hn
December 13, 1999 - December 18, 1999
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Sam James wheel pants |
Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on
RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out?
My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lyc io360 Backfire |
>From: "James S. Danda" <jdanda(at)secnetgroup.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Lyc io360 Backfire
>Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 18:30:33 -0600 (CST)
>
>
>I recently purchased a completed rv-6a with a Lycoming o360-A1AD.
>It came from a Tabago at TBO. It has a c/s prop. The engine starts easily,
>but
>backfires on the ground and while at cruise(which is unnerving).
>I've only flown it once to my home field. I cleaned and gapped the
>spark plugs, but it still backfires. Here are some points of
>data:
>
>The previous owner had the mixture adjusted because of hot
>starting problems.
>
>On my flight home fuel-flow was high (14gph) and power was
>low - at 25 squared we cruised at 14omph indicated at 2500
>ft. When ran rich, because when we leaned the inflight backfires
>increased.
>
>The previous owner hasn't flown it in cold weather since the
>mixture adjustment.
>
>Compression appears to be good (measured from prop pull-through).
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Jim
>
>
Hi Jim
first, i will answer your question by assuming that your engine is injected.
If it is,then I believe that your problem is related to your injectors, one
or two of them are probably partialy plugged up.
If your fuel flow guage is actually a pressure guage as found in several
certified thingy, you would see and increase in fuel flow since the system
is trying to feed the same amount of fuel, resulting in an increase in
pressure.
Second, if it's carburated it sounds like a lean cylinder problem, either an
intake air leak or bad spark plugs on one cylinder.
To go any further I would require more info like mag drop, lean mixture
check results, etc.
One note of caution,I would strongly suggest that` you do not fly the
aircraft until you find & fix the problem`
Good luck!
Alain Nantel(at)hotmail.com
RV-6 installing instrument panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics suggestions |
Have you looked into the RST audio panel? I think it's about $300.
Brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Shipping to Clearwater, Florida |
I wanted to order the rear bottom fuselage skin (F-325) from Van's to
replace the one that got damaged in my RV-3 engine fire. I was told it
is too large to be shipped UPS and would have to go by truck, estimated
shipping $175 for a $66 part!
Are any of you located in East/Central Florida and expect a crate from
Van's in the next month or two? If so, I would like to include that
fuselage skin in you crate. I'll be happy to pay you a reasonable amount
for this favor.
I live in Clearwater, near Tampa.
Finn
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel training |
Arthur,
I rent a Champ here on the East Coast. Titusville has a 100 hp champ for
$39/hr. Got my check out in it in '95. But this may be taken off rental
status amd sold. Merrit Is. Air has a 65 hp Champ w/o electrical for $50
/hr.
I like the more powerful one but the extra weight makes it come down like a
rock.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 Final assembly
Melbourne, FL
>From: "Arthur J. Treff" <atreff(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV Posting"
>Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel training
>Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 13:12:09 -0500
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Anybody know of an instructor (with plane) doing tailwheel transition
>training in FL? Hopefully west coast? Been hitting the AOPA guide hard
>and
>coming up with dead ends. Thanx.
>
>
>Arthur J. Treff
>RV-8 Preview plans
>Bradenton, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel training |
Arthur,
Also, at Bob White Field at Zellwood there is a Stearman, Cub, & Champ. I
flew the Stearman once. It flew like a big Champ and came down even faster
than a rock.
Rick Caldwell
>From: "Arthur J. Treff" <atreff(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV Posting"
>Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel training
>Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 13:12:09 -0500
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Anybody know of an instructor (with plane) doing tailwheel transition
>training in FL? Hopefully west coast? Been hitting the AOPA guide hard
>and
>coming up with dead ends. Thanx.
>
>
>Arthur J. Treff
>RV-8 Preview plans
>Bradenton, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel training |
Scott,
Unless Mike has changed his policy, he told me that he liked to have pilots
already current with tailwheels.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6
Melbourne, Fl
>From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel training
>Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 15:32:34 EST
>
>
>auther
>if you can wait till april, i will probably sponsor van's transition
>trainning program again. it consist of mike seager and the rv 6 tail
>dragger
>for a week prior to sun-n-fun. last year i got 5 hours transistion time,
>that's why i'm building a 6a, they put the little wheel out back, before
>they knew better.
>scott
>tampa
>fuse innerds
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I wouldn't have a problem going with the older kit. I did as a matter of
fact. I bought RV-4 S/N: 1054 from a builder who bought it from a builder,
who bought it from the original builder. Amazingly all the parts were
there!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: EARL FORTNER [mailto:e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 1:07 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 old vs new
I recall someone had a posting about an old kit they bought
and the
paper wrapped around the skins had some slight corrosion or
something
like that and it took a little effort to clean the skins. I
don't think
there have been many changes in that time period. I bought
my RV4 kit
in August of 93 and there have been a few mod's but not
many. I would
suggest you get the latest version of plans which will have
all of the
updates. Also the RVators have the mod's. If I had the
choice to save
a substantial amount of money I would go with the old kit
provided it
is unopened to assure you have all the parts. If possible
take the top
off the box and inspect it.
Hope this helps, Earl
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> As many of you know, I am going to start an RV-4 in the
next couple weeks.
> I have the opportunity to buy an empennage kit and a wing
kit that are
> nearly 9 years old and not opened. If any of you know
whether there have
> been significant updates since then making it not
worthwhile to purchase an
> 'aged' kit like this....please contact me. I would love
to save a few bucks
> and buy this older kit, but I don't want to spend another
year building it
> if the old kit is far from up to date.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wacky Isspro fuel gauge |
Whack the panel next to the gage. Now harder. They stick at the bottom peg.
Dan Morris
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 8:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: wacky Isspro fuel gauge
>
> Listers,
>
> Has anyone found the Isspro fuel gauges, coupled to Van's float senders,
to
> be reluctant to indicate when they are cold? The gauge for my left tank
> stays at the empty position then pops to full (which the tank is now) at
> some time a bit later...whenever it feels like it and usually when I'm not
> looking at it. The wiring to the sender is intact as far as I can tell.
> The gauge worked fine when I calibrated it to the sender many months ago
> during tank construction...in the warm summer. Once the needle starts to
> indicate correctly, it stays this way and reads normally. Maybe just a
bad
> gauge movement? I might try to heat the bugger up with a heat gun and see
it
> it behaves differently when the bus is powered up.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> airworthiness inspection done! Time to fly.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Shipping to Clearwater, Florida |
I'm not an RV Builder but hope to be someday. Could you not simply buy a
piece of the same gauge and alloy aluminum at you friendly local
sheetmetal supply house? Have them shear it to size or close to it and
take the trimmings home for future patches.
Just a suggestion
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Caps Shipping |
Steve,
I received the caps today. They are beautiful. Thanks for sharing your
craftsmanship. AL
>
>Group
>
> Started shipping caps today below are the list that are done and or on
>their way my wife does the shipping so she may not have got it out today but
>she is working on it but these are done so you can expect it in a few days:
>
>Joe Czachorowski
>Larry Bowen
>Rick McBride
>Randy Lervold
>Joe Waltz
>Jack Blomgren
>Jerry Carter
>David Stafford
>Jeff Farrar
>Wes Hayes
>Gary Zilik
>Doug Shenk
>Pat Hatch
>Al Mojzisik
>Dave Burnham
>Steve Hammer
>Jim Pickrell
>Jerry Calvert
>Marty Sailer
>Walt Shipley
>Gary Baker
>Gray Palinkis
>Ed Ward
>Bob Japundza
>Randy Griffin
>Harry Crosby
>Jack Abell
>Shelby Smith
>John Lane
>Alex Strickland
>Chris Good
>Laird Owens
>Frank Melder
>Davis Grover
>Richard Crosley
>Marty Emrath
>Allen Kritzman
>Dave Fletcher
>Chuck Rowbotham
>David Ahrens
>Steve McInnis
>Gary Fesenbek
>Todd Magargle
>Steve Dinieri
>Paul Clohan
>Rick Jory
>John Wigmore
>Ross B
>
>I Still have about 10 more sets to do but closing fast
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheel pants |
I just installed a set of James pants on my 6A. They used a different
mounting hardware which can be fabricated by you and at least for 6A's
are available from a supplier for around 25$. His pants increased my
top end speed over the Vans one piece from 192 to 202 mph. Measured
with an RMI microencoder at 7500 ft of pressure altitude.
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on
> RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out?
> My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List:Attaching skins |
I don't recommend removing the skins. You'll risk more in skin dimple damage
than the edge bend is worth, especially for the HS. Wing skins are
different. Try not to forget the edge bending at skin butt or overlap
joints.
John Sheppard (RV8 tanks)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Garrett
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 4:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List:Attaching skins
I've already begun attaching the skins to the HS and remembered reading
somewhere that I might want to bend the edge of the skins slightly downward
to compensate for the bend that occurs when riveting the edge of the skin.
Has anyone out there got away with riveting the skins without pre-bending
the edges and been satisfied or should I go through the trouble of
removing the skin so I can bend them?
Any comments appreciated,
Matt
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 old vs new |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> There should be little or no difference in the RV4 kit that is 8
> years old
> from one that was made a year ago. The gear legs have been
> lengthened
> slightly, early kits had a slightly different cowling and nacelle
> cheeks. The
> prepunching never really got to the RV4--I say go for it--I doubt
> you will
> regret it. JR
>
I think RV-4 kits have been supplied with prepunched wings skins for a
while now.
9 years old is likely not going to have this option.
This is the only major difference in the emp. or wing kit since that
time.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Sam James wheel pants |
Why are SJ wheelpants better than Van's?
Joe
(front windshield)
Randy Lervold wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold"
>
> Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on
> RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out?
> My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior
> www.pacifier.com/~randyl
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Sam James wheel pants |
<< Why are SJ wheelpants better than Van's?
Joe
(front windshield)
Randy Lervold wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold"
>
> Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on
> RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked
out? >>
I've got a pair of Sam's wheelpants. I dunno if they are BETTER than Van's 2
piece pants, but they are somewhat smaller (I think Van's pants might even
hold a 6" wheel/tire combo as opposed to the standard 5 x 5's.). This might
make 'em a little faster, but you'd need to do back to back testing to prove
it. The shape is noticably different (I kinda like the look of Van's pants
better). I bought mine because Tracy Saylor (who has a very fast RV-6)
recommended them as a good go-fast item.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
My RV-8A QB kit arrived just in time for Christmas! A few notes for
those who may be receiving one.
I rented a 16-foot flatbed trailer from the local rental house and off
I went to the Roadway terminal. When these people tell you they ship
"dock to dock", that means that you have to lower your crate down to
the trailer. A hairy experience, but the guy at the terminal was a
great help and had done this before.
Van's had marked the crates with big red dollar signs and the words
"high claim value". The Roadway people treated them with care and
were glad to see those boxes leave the dock.
Remember to bring cash or a check to pay for the shipping because
Roadway doesn't take credit cards.
Just as an FYI, it is possible for a single person to get the crates
off the trailer and into the garage. I'll hurt for a week, but I got
it done using two moving dollies, some boards to slip between the
dollies and the crate, and a good floor jack with a large board to
distribute the weight. Where there's a will....
After returning the trailer, I opened the big crate and I really like
what I see so far. The fuselage looks good and everything was packed
well by Van's shipping department.
My garage suddenly got very small.
Bob
RV-8AQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics suggestions |
I had a RST in my last RV which I liked very much. I also completed one for
my present project. The beauty is with the intercom built in you save a lot
of money, and it is fun to build also.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB- Riveting aft skin
----- Original Message -----
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avionics suggestions
>
>
> >
> >I am planning a *very* light IFR panel with:
> >
> >NAV with GS
> >COMM radio
> >IFR GPS
> >Marker beacon receiver
> >
> >My question is about tying together the audio. I won't use all of the
> >channels/features of a full audio panel/MB receiver like a KMA-24 or
> >26. Does anyone know of a good way to hook the NAV, COMM, MB and
> >intercom without an expensive audio panel? Is there a simple unit out
> >there? The simplest I've seen is KMA-20 but I could use even less.
> >
>
>
> I have a similar panel and had similar concerns. I decided to give the
> RST audio panel/intercom a try. At the price they ask I was skeptical
> but it was SO little that I decided to try it and change to something
> else if I didn't like it.
>
> The audio panel and intercom work great and I prefer toggle switches to
> buttons anyway (easier to manipulate in turbulence). You do have to
> build it and it is not the easiest kit I have seen but it is very doable.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics suggestions |
In a message dated 12/13/1999 6:55:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
> The audio panel and intercom work great and I prefer toggle switches to
> buttons anyway (easier to manipulate in turbulence). You do have to
> build it and it is not the easiest kit I have seen but it is very doable.
>
And I happen to have one for sale, since I decided to go with only two
radios, and a toggle switch will suffice (my intercom supports two audio
inputs, so I have only to select the 118 MHz or 144 MHz radio tx line and I'm
in business.) Contacy me off list for price and further info on the RST with
intercom... factory-aligned after I built it.
-Bill Boyd
N30YD 6A flying
SportAV8R(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheel pants |
Greetings to all from chilly and wet (about time!) western Virginia. I don't
mean to start any nasty threads here, but I am seriously considering an
upgrade on my wheel pants this coming spring, when the weather is warm enough
to paint and do fiberglass work in the unheated hangar. I would genuinely
like to hear user comments on the relative merits of the James pants and any
other types out there... are they different from the new 2-pc pants from
Van's that boast a 6 mph increase? Any fit problems or suitability issues on
rough grass strips? The same question goes for the various new models of
gear leg fairings now available (I intend to replace the nose gear leg
despite a lack of cracks so far, and may as well do all these jobs at once.)
Who's got the fairest fairings of them all - Tracy? Van? Cost and weight
would be considerations, but speed and ease of installation (hate to take
time out from flying to rebuild anything) are paramount for me. What say ye?
-Bill B RV-6A flying
> I just installed a set of James pants on my 6A. They used a different
> mounting hardware which can be fabricated by you and at least for 6A's
> are available from a supplier for around 25$. His pants increased my
> top end speed over the Vans one piece from 192 to 202 mph.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dustin Norlund <dustin(at)busprod.com> |
I need the following to complete an RV6.
Exhaust for an 0-320
Prop (metal) for RV6 w/0320
Looking for also but not necessary
Engine Analyzer
Apollo Nav/Com
DME
Audio Panel.
Any brand will be considered.
I have had success in the past using the list to get parts. It seems some of us
buy
things then change ideas and do not need the parts any more. Thanks in advance.
Dustin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mel Jordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheel pants |
As you are considering gear leg fairings, you should also consider those
that Team Rocket is selling. I recently got a pair, and can attest that the
quality of the glass work is really first rate. A local friend has a pair
of Tracy's, which also display excellent glass, both are very smooth and
have none of the nasty pin holes that take hours to fill. The Team Rocket
fairings are wider than Tracy's, about one to one point five inches if my
memory serves me. Also, if you are going to use Van's two piece wheel
pants, Team Rocket is in the process of developing intersection fairings
that fit Vans new pants and the Team R fairings. I saw their RV6
intersection fairings at Copperstate, and the workmanship was excellent.
They are currently developing the intersection fairing set for the RV6A,
which if they are of the same quality as their other glass work, will be
worth waiting for.
I also have recently received Van's new nose gear fairing and feel that is
it okay, but will take a fair amount of filling to plug all the pin holes,
but this will be nothing compared to filling the pin holes in the new Type
"S" cowl. Oh well, that is what the make micro balloons for.
Best Regards,
Mel Jordan RV6A painting the interior
Tucson, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam James wheel pants
>
> Greetings to all from chilly and wet (about time!) western Virginia. I
don't
> mean to start any nasty threads here, but I am seriously considering an
> upgrade on my wheel pants this coming spring, when the weather is warm
enough
> to paint and do fiberglass work in the unheated hangar. I would genuinely
> like to hear user comments on the relative merits of the James pants and
any
> other types out there... are they different from the new 2-pc pants from
> Van's that boast a 6 mph increase? Any fit problems or suitability issues
on
> rough grass strips? The same question goes for the various new models of
> gear leg fairings now available (I intend to replace the nose gear leg
> despite a lack of cracks so far, and may as well do all these jobs at
once.)
> Who's got the fairest fairings of them all - Tracy? Van? Cost and weight
> would be considerations, but speed and ease of installation (hate to take
> time out from flying to rebuild anything) are paramount for me. What say
ye?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics suggestions |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> I am planning a *very* light IFR panel with:
>
> NAV with GS
> COMM radio
> IFR GPS
> Marker beacon receiver
>
> My question is about tying together the audio. I won't use all of
> the
> channels/features of a full audio panel/MB receiver like a KMA-24 or
> 26. Does anyone know of a good way to hook the NAV, COMM, MB and
> intercom without an expensive audio panel? Is there a simple unit
> out
> there? The simplest I've seen is KMA-20 but I could use even less.
>
A Kitplanes artical by Jim Wier a while back discussed how to maker your
own audio mixing panel with simple circuits to balance all of the audio
levels and make them work together.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> My radio has failed gradually over the course of about 3 hours
> flying time.
> I can receive but not transmit.
>
> The problems started as my transmissions, cutting in and out. Now
> when I key
> the mike, the transmit light on the radio flickers for 1/2 second
> and then
> goes dead. I'm not sure if I'm putting out anything for that first
> moment
> when the light flickers. I am able to recieve clearly.
>
The problem is likely the transmitter final output section.
In the MX-11 it is rather weakly designed.
When the radios work they work great (I used to work as a dealer for them
years ago), but the transmitter is not very durable.
TKM has always had a very good customer service program and (as another
post mentioned) they are likely to turn it around very quickly for you.
Of course, check the rest of the system to be sure it hasn't developed
another problem... then box it up and send it to Scottsdale AZ.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes Part I |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> I wanted to relate my saga of getting my pitot-static and Mode C
> check for
> my IFR equipped RV6A.
>
> I was amazed. I expected the guy to spend maybe an hour and connect
> something to the pitot and static systems to do the check, but...
>
> He spent over two hours, he has to return next Tuesday to finish up.
> First
> up he took the altimeter out to check it on his test equipment.
-
Gary,
I can't say for sure but it sounds like this technician is padding his
time.
When doing this type of check, all of the checks on the instruments are
done in the airplane. In reality it is the instrument system that is
being checked, not just the instruments.
Normally the checks would be done, and if problems (leaks or instrument
errors) are found... Then the system is disassembled, and problems or
instruments are repaired or replaced.
I have been present for many IFR certifications that took much less than
an hour (because there were no problems).
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Offset elevator alignment? |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> As an EAA Tech Counselor, I would like to know if
> anyone has heard about or done the following:
>
> Putting a 1/8" offset in the right elevator for
> descents (trailing edge down 1/8" from level).
>
> The theory that I was told:
>
> With the aircraft in a descent using the trim tab, the
> trim tab acts like a mini 'aileron' and inputs a very
> slight roll to the right. The slight offset in the
> right elevator compensates for the left elevator trim
> tab.
>
>
> My comments:
>
> My airplane was built exactly to plans. I did not add
> any offset to anything. I do not change the trim for
> a decent. The only thing that I see that this will do
> is increase drag at the upper cruise speeds of the RV.
>
> Am I missing something?
>
No...but who ever told you this might be. :-)
It sounds like they are assuming that the trim tab will always be
displaced in the nose down position when they are in a decent. This is
not necessarily the case, even if it was it is not likely that the trim
tab causes any roll input that could be detected (you probably cause more
by reaching acrossed the cockpit to flip a switch on the opposite side.
The trim tab is so small compared to the ailerons, and has such a short
moment (only outboard about 15 " from the center line) that I doubt it
has much effect on roll even when displaced a large amount.
It is not common knowledge but when Burt Rutan first flew the original
Varieze it had no ailerons on the wings. He intended to use the same
surfaces that were on the canard for ailerons and elevators (ailavators?)
It did not work. The airplane had very little roll control so ailerons
were added to the wings (and this was with 2 much larger surfaces with
much more displacement than an RV elevator trim tab.
Sounds to me like someone made a mistake and has made up a (unlikely)
story to cover for it.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Caps Shipping |
Thank You Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
That's the problem. I haven't been able to find a local supply house that
carries 2024-T3 sheets. If you know of any or a way of finding it, please do
let me know. The closest I know of is Aircraft Spruce East in Griffin, GA.
Finn
dann mann wrote:
>
> I'm not an RV Builder but hope to be someday. Could you not simply buy a
> piece of the same gauge and alloy aluminum at you friendly local
> sheetmetal supply house? Have them shear it to size or close to it and
> take the trimmings home for future patches.
> Just a suggestion
> Dan
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wacky Isspro fuel gauge |
Yep, I have replaced one for that reason, and both of mine that are in place
now have a slight notion to behave the same, but haven't been able to do
enough sticking to be a problem so far. Rv-6 210 hrs.
Ron Vandervort
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com> |
It's an O320H2AD 160HP, overhaul by Aero spot power (Bart lalonde)
800-667-0522. First runout . Bendix mags, Installation of nozzel spray by
chuck ney Enterprises of Tulsa OK. I can send/Fax parts list and overhaul
specs.
planejoe(at)ewol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Empennage fairing |
There seem to be a whole variety of alternative gear leg and wheel
fairings, but does anyone make a empennage fairing to replace the polyester
item supplied in the kit?
Also, has anyone got any experience of Tracy Saylor's left-hand throttle
modification for the RV-6?
Ed Hicks.
Planning to order RV-6QB.
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com> |
Lycoming 160hp over haul by Aero Sport Power (Bart LaLonde 8006670522)
Bendix mags, spray nozzel by Chuck ney enterprises of Tulsa OK, can send/faq
mail parts list and test results.
planejoe(at)ewol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bolt Identifications |
OK, I must be missing something. The inventory list that came with the tail
kit clearly states which rivets are in which bags, but it fails to make any
such specific associations for bolts, nuts, & washers. How is one supposed
to tell which of these items are which? I'm sure there's a simple answer...
Also, where does it say what size hole to drill for a particular bolt?
Also, also, is it OK to get primer on the center section of the VA-146
bearing in the HS-411, or do I need to mask it off somehow before spraying?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)starwon.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Blast from the past & Cobalt Blue |
Buster - that was beautiful - makes me want to come and fly in Canada.
Please keep up the good work - your words inspire me when I can't go out and
open the hangar door and face the mistake I made yesterday!!
Happy Christmas
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Perth, Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Bolt Identifications |
Ken,
You can download an Excel spreadsheet that a RV builder put together that
tells you which bag has what. I kept all the bags separate for the first
years of building. When the fuselage kit arrived, I sorted all the nuts,
bolts and washers into plastic containers to make it easier to find the
AN3-6A bolt (or whatever) rather than look through each bag.
I my memory is correct (I am not in the shop, I am at my day job) you use a
#19 drill for the #8 screws and a #12 drill for the AN3 bolts. I am sure
that someone will let you know if these drill sizes are not correct!
I would not prime the inside of the VA-146 because you'll just have to
scrape it out when you push the bolt through it.
Steve Soule
RV-6A panel stuff (stuffing panel?)
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
OK, I must be missing something. The inventory list that
came with the tail
kit clearly states which rivets are in which bags, but it
fails to make any
such specific associations for bolts, nuts, & washers. How
is one supposed
to tell which of these items are which? I'm sure there's a
simple answer...
Also, where does it say what size hole to drill for a
particular bolt?
Also, also, is it OK to get primer on the center section of
the VA-146
bearing in the HS-411, or do I need to mask it off somehow
before spraying?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot-Static Woes |
I can't say for sure but it sounds like this technician is padding his
time.
When doing this type of check, all of the checks on the instruments are
done in the airplane. In reality it is the instrument system that is
being checked, not just the instruments.
Normally the checks would be done, and if problems (leaks or instrument
errors) are found... Then the system is disassembled, and problems or
instruments are repaired or replaced.
I have been present for many IFR certifications that took much less than
an hour (because there were no problems).
I don't think he is padding his time because I have a fixed bid from him.
He said that it would take about two hours and I think it will take just a
little more than that. I'm sure he could check the instruments in the plane
but I have a removable section for my flying/nav instruments so that made
taking it out very easy. There are two other folks to go to around here
that give the check within an hour. My avionics shop recommended this guy
for a new installation because he is so thorough. I could have gone with
someone quicker and maybe even cheaper but....
If you read FAR 43.17 Appendix E just looking at the Scale Error test
(Subparagraph i)
Each test point must be maintained for at least a minute (both up and down)
just for the scale error test. This appendex has six subchapters of tests to
perform.
My point is that I know you(or I)can pay somebody the same money to only
take an hour of my time and give me the same signoff in my airframe logbook.
Heck, I can probably find someone around here just to sign my book and I
give him the check but... why not spend the time and do it right. I had
never seen a check so thourough as this and that's what prompted me to get
into the FARs that cover this section. Just wanted to pass this on for
someone else who might be thinking of having a real IFR bird. Of course
after all is said he didn't find anything grossly wrong, so maybe I should
have just paid and had the signoff. It does make me appreciate the fact
that on the top end my UMA airspeed indicator won't be very accurate. That
will save me from erroneously reporting to the list that I have the first
250 knot RV6A. :Y)
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: RV-3 Quotation] |
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:21:16 -0600
From: "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-3 Quotation
Dear Mr. Mackey,
When we had our LONG talk yesterday, little did I realize that it
would lead to this email.
Normally when I am upset, aggravated or whatever, I cool down and
usually regret my conversations that develop in the 'heat of battle'.
Not this time.
In fact, with the passing of time, I am more adamant than ever that
EAA's relationship with AVEMCO should be severed unless severely
modified.
You had no satisfactory answer for me about the Vicki Cruse example;
being turned away because of her NO TIME or LOW time.
IF EAA is to be meaningful to us members, it flies in the face of
our special relationship, EAA usefulness, etcetera to have to search
outside of the EAA-AVEMCO loop for beginner's coverage in most
every instance.
If AVEMCO wants to be more conservative than the competition, that
is fine. However EAA has no business steering a potent and sizable
market such as ourselves for AVEMCO to CHERRY PICK from !!!!!!!!
The leadership of EAA is remiss in allowing AVEMCO to to do this!
WE NEED To TAKE CARE OF OUR OWN.
I have tried to identify with your position that AVEMCO's
competitor's rates are totally predatory in nature.
Sorry. Not my job to buy that line, even if true.
You agreed with my position that I have a responsibility and
obligation to MY FAMILY to get the best deal for my wife and kids so
I can have money left for food, shoes and other goods and services.
HOW is it any different that you should not do likewise for your
EAA FAMILY?!?!?!?!??!?!
The AIG's and the Phoenix's aren't going to go out of business
with their current pricing even if it is to lure us in.
To me, it's ludicrous to pass this pricing up.
Come next year, EAA can always use its power/clout to negotiate
another deal that is better than I get get on my own.
If not, I may get to wondering what do I need you guys for
at $40 a year in the first place.
Vicki Cruse is doing better outside of AVEMCO.
I'm doing better outside of AVEMCO.
THOUSANDS of EAA members are doing better outside of AVEMCO.
EAA is just flat are not cutting it in our behalf!!!!
P.S. I never found a more likable messenger that I would hate
to shoot than yourself! [big grin]
Sincerely,
Robert R. (Bob) Urban
Lauerman, Jim wrote:
>
> Mr. Urban:
>
> While I was in Oshkosh last week Bob Mackey asked me to look into the
> quotation you received for your RV-3. As Bob described the quotation it did
> not seem to be correct to me but I wanted to get back to the office to
> research the particulars.
>
> The insurance counselor who worked up your quotation followed our standard
> procedures in rating the risk. He referred to our make and model library to
> determine what Schedule and Category to quote the RV-3 in and he entered
> that information into our rating software. He also asked you if the spar
> modification had been performed which, of course, it had.
>
> His error was that he failed to see a note in the manual on the RV-3's
> states that if the spar modification has been completed, the RV-3 is rated
> in a different (and much more favorable) category. Therefore, the quotation
> you received was for an RV-3 without the spar modification.
>
> Correctly rated, your RV-3 would be $1,031 total annual premium for the same
> liability you carry on the Ercoupe and a $25,000 hull value.
>
> I apologize that our insurance counselor made the error but it is easy to do
> when we are working with aircraft with unique issues like the spar mod on
> RV-3's. While we strive for perfection, we are still human.
>
> Please accept my apology for our counselor's error. I trust you will advise
> your RV owner friends of the correct facts in your case.
>
> I appreciate your business and wish you well in all of your endeavors,
> especially your flying.
>
> Jim Lauerman
> Executive Vice President
> Avemco Insurance Company
> 800-637-5412 Ext, 4326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blast from the past & Cobalt Blue |
--- SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Buster:
>
> beautiful, as usual. You are the poet laureate of the rv community;
> don't ever quit.
Hear! Hear!
> There is no
> character test required before subscribing to the list, and
> occasionally someone volunteers to prove that.
And a double Hear! Hear!
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prefabricated Wiring Harness |
I am working with it now on my RV-6A. It is a good materials kit even if you
change the layout like I did. My suggestion would be to get the plans and see
if you like it. If you deviate from switch/breaker locations and configuration
or use fuses like I did, you will have to snip the harness apart and custom fit
it. Not a problem, really. It is nice to have the battery and starter cables
already made up, although I changed the firewall ground so I could use Bob's
Nuckolls' firewall ground kit and had to make a new cable for that (Shameless
plug - Bob gave me the materials to do it! Thanks Bob). Also, I replaced the
ring terminals with fastons to use Bob's fuse blocks. It is nice to have most
of the wires sized and cut to approximate length. Since the harness is about
the same as Van's raw materials kit and includes a good schematic and drawing ,
it is probably a good deal. Whatever you do, label everything! Things getting
messy quickly.
Chris Browne
-6A wiring (spaghetti)
Atlanta
AV8R wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any experience with Van's prefabricated wiring harness and
> switch/breaker kit? Thinking about ordering for my RV-8.
>
> John Hall
> RV-8QB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivet wing skeleton before aligning skins? |
I have both wings in the jigs, clecoed together - everything aligned
perfectly. According to the Orndorf video's, I should disassemble and prime
the ribs, rivet the skeleton together, then fit the skins. Unfortunately,
I'm in the Northeast and the likely next good priming day is months away. My
question... Has anyone done all the skin fitting, drilling, dimpling, etc.
with the skeleton clecoed in place rather than riveted? I can always move on
to the flaps and ailerons, but I'm still going to run out of things to do
before the weather warms up enough to prime.
Craig Paulson
rv6a, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet wing skeleton before aligning skins? |
--- Craig Paulson <cpaulson@paulson-training.com> wrote:
> Has anyone done all the skin fitting, drilling, dimpling,
> etc.
> with the skeleton clecoed in place rather than riveted?
Some of the written instructions have you do this and with care I can
see how you _could_ virtually assemble the entire wing (drill and
dimple) before riveting anything up.
I went with the incremental approach a'la Orndorf: Finish leading
edges, finish tanks, bolt ribs and rivet skeleton (where I'm at now).
Only then, after everything is attached and riveted and I know that
things won't be moving around in between clecoing and riveting (somehow
they always do - but that could just be me) will I be ready to drill
the main skins.
I may be taking the long way 'round - if your choice is to work the
celcoed wing or no work at all (control surfaces won't take you any
time at all), then I'd work carefully, double check everything and
continue.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet wing skeleton before aligning skins? |
That skeleton will be a lot "tighter" after it is riveted and the skin you
drilled may no longer fit as well. I would rivet the skeleton together
before drilling the skins.
Steve Soule
RV-6A Panel
-----Original Message-----I have both wings in the jigs,
clecoed together - everything aligned
perfectly. According to the Orndorf video's, I should
disassemble and prime
the ribs, rivet the skeleton together, then fit the skins.
Unfortunately,
I'm in the Northeast and the likely next good priming day is
months away. My
question... Has anyone done all the skin fitting, drilling,
dimpling, etc.
with the skeleton clecoed in place rather than riveted? I
can always move on
to the flaps and ailerons, but I'm still going to run out of
things to do
before the weather warms up enough to prime.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet wing skeleton before aligning skins? |
In a message dated 12/14/1999, 10:01:51 AM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<>
Yes, this is how I did mine but instead if using clecos to hold the ribs to
the spar I used AN bolts with plain nuts that I got from a hardware store.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Identifications |
Hi Mark,
Thanks for the info. Bolt gauge and Standard Aircraft Handbook are both on
their way. The Orndorff video mentioned the #12 for the HS-411 bolts, but I
couldn't find that info anywhere in the plans or manual. I hope the new
reference materials get here soon.
Rear spar completed, on to the horiz. stab. front spar...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
In a message dated 12/14/99 8:22:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mddickens(at)mindspring.com writes:
> Ken, some of the hardware is labeled and some isn't. you need to get a
> bolt gauge from Avery or someone else so you can identify
> hardware...also get a copy of the Standard Aircraft Handbook from
> Jeppesen or someone else...it has charts in it that identify all sorts
> of hardware...the Aircracft Spruce and Specialty catalog is also a good
> source of information. As for the size of the holes needed for the
> bolts, these charts are included in this material too. To save you some
> time, you need a #12 drill for the 3-5 bolts used to attach the center
> bearing to the HS rear spar...I used #10 before I found my error, but
> fortunately this was still within specs, per Van's.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Identifications |
Hi Steve,
Is the spreadsheet's parts breakdown valid for the -8? I thought it was only
for the -6, but I could be mistaken. I just got back from the latest trip to
the Home Depot for a parts organizer with lots of little drawers for rivets,
etc. Lunch first, organizing later...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
In a message dated 12/14/99 9:06:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
> Ken,
>
> You can download an Excel spreadsheet that a RV builder put together that
> tells you which bag has what. I kept all the bags separate for the first
> years of building. When the fuselage kit arrived, I sorted all the nuts,
> bolts and washers into plastic containers to make it easier to find the
> AN3-6A bolt (or whatever) rather than look through each bag.
>
> I my memory is correct (I am not in the shop, I am at my day job) you use a
> #19 drill for the #8 screws and a #12 drill for the AN3 bolts. I am sure
> that someone will let you know if these drill sizes are not correct!
>
> I would not prime the inside of the VA-146 because you'll just have to
> scrape it out when you push the bolt through it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Audio Panel Question |
Listers,
I have a problem with my audio panel / music input that has been driving me
crazy for two years now. The audio panel is an RST unit with the built-in
intercom and I have a CD walkman connected to the AUX input. No matter
what I try, the audio level from the walkman is very low. With a pair of
David Clarks you can barely hear it. I've tried using the AUX output and
the headphone jack on the walkman and neither makes much difference. My
first though was the walkman, but I took an old Softcom portable intercom,
connected it all together with the walkman and went flying. That worked
just fine, so it must be either my installation or the RST unit. The RST
unit has a feature that mutes the AUX input when there is other traffic on
the audio panel. This feature appears to work as whatever sounds I do hear
from the walkman are muted when a mike goes hot or ATC transmits.
Any thoughts on a solution? Would it be possible to amplify the signal
from the walkman prior to the intercom? All other audio inputs to the
audio panel (Comm, Nav, Mkr Bcn) works just fine. Also, what is the best
method to combine the stereo output from the walkman into a mono input to
the audio panel? I currently have it connected to just one channel. Could
this be my problem?
Thanks in advance.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet wing skeleton before aligning skins? |
In a message dated 12/14/1999, 10:55:54 AM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<>
Why? The clecos cause metal to metal contact. How can it get any "tighter"?.
Unless you are using warnout clecos or your clecos are under strain (then
you'll have other wing problems) the cleco-n-go method will work just fine.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Panel Question |
you have an impedance problem. the walkman is 8ohm impedance. there is a
easy fix, i cant remember it exactly right now. post a message to jim weir
on rec hombuilt and he will give you the answer.
R. Burns
RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524
-----Original Message-----
From: ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net>
Date: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 11:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Audio Panel Question
>
>Listers,
>
>I have a problem with my audio panel / music input that has been driving me
>crazy for two years now. The audio panel is an RST unit with the built-in
>intercom and I have a CD walkman connected to the AUX input. No matter
>what I try, the audio level from the walkman is very low. With a pair of
>David Clarks you can barely hear it. I've tried using the AUX output and
>the headphone jack on the walkman and neither makes much difference. My
>first though was the walkman, but I took an old Softcom portable intercom,
>connected it all together with the walkman and went flying. That worked
>just fine, so it must be either my installation or the RST unit. The RST
>unit has a feature that mutes the AUX input when there is other traffic on
>the audio panel. This feature appears to work as whatever sounds I do hear
>from the walkman are muted when a mike goes hot or ATC transmits.
>
>Any thoughts on a solution? Would it be possible to amplify the signal
>from the walkman prior to the intercom? All other audio inputs to the
>audio panel (Comm, Nav, Mkr Bcn) works just fine. Also, what is the best
>method to combine the stereo output from the walkman into a mono input to
>the audio panel? I currently have it connected to just one channel. Could
>this be my problem?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Incidence tweaking |
Cessna and possibly others use a ecentric bushing that can be rotated to move
the bolt hole about for changing wing incidence. It has been a while since I
saw one and do not know that it could be used on a RV rear spar. Assuming
you have ED you could have a bushing turned with an off center hole and then
press it into the either the rear spar or the fuse attach member to correct
the discrepancy after you determine in your flight testing such a thing might
be needed. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 tip up canopy handle |
How do the rest of you lift your RV-6 tip up canopies? I made several
different variations of a handle made of aluminum angle. The first I bent
from left over sheet stock. That last I made of various sizes of angle.
None of them look very good sticking out of the side of the canopy frame.
Any good ideas, or shall I stay with ugly but functional?
Steve Soule
RV-6A
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Audio Panel Question |
>
>Listers,
>
>I have a problem with my audio panel / music input that has been driving me
>crazy for two years now. The audio panel is an RST unit with the built-in
>intercom and I have a CD walkman connected to the AUX input. No matter
>what I try, the audio level from the walkman is very low. With a pair of
>David Clarks you can barely hear it. I've tried using the AUX output and
>the headphone jack on the walkman and neither makes much difference. My
>first though was the walkman, but I took an old Softcom portable intercom,
>connected it all together with the walkman and went flying. That worked
>just fine, so it must be either my installation or the RST unit. The RST
>unit has a feature that mutes the AUX input when there is other traffic on
>the audio panel. This feature appears to work as whatever sounds I do hear
>from the walkman are muted when a mike goes hot or ATC transmits.
>
>Any thoughts on a solution? Would it be possible to amplify the signal
>from the walkman prior to the intercom? All other audio inputs to the
>audio panel (Comm, Nav, Mkr Bcn) works just fine. Also, what is the best
>method to combine the stereo output from the walkman into a mono input to
>the audio panel? I currently have it connected to just one channel. Could
>this be my problem?
The very best answers to questions like this will come from
the guy who designed the system. Have you contacted Jim
Wier? I think he's quite available at:
mailto:sales@rst-engr.com
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip up canopy handle |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> How do the rest of you lift your RV-6 tip up canopies? I made several
> different variations of a handle made of aluminum angle. The first I bent
> from left over sheet stock. That last I made of various sizes of angle.
> None of them look very good sticking out of the side of the canopy frame.
> Any good ideas, or shall I stay with ugly but functional?
>
> Steve Soule
> RV-6A
> Huntington, Vermont
>
I took some aluminum bar stock and made a tab about 1.5" x 3/4". I
rounded the edges and corners with a file and drilled and tapped one
edge for #6 screws. Drilled two matching holes in the canopy side skin
and screwed the handle on from the inside. Been there for 800 hours and
very low drag:)
Terry
Kitchener, ON
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Identifications |
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
> Is the spreadsheet's parts breakdown valid for the -8? I thought it was only
> for the -6, but I could be mistaken.
There's an RV-8 parts list somewhere too.
> I just got back from the latest trip to
> the Home Depot for a parts organizer with lots of little drawers for rivets,
> etc. Lunch first, organizing later...
Good approach. I was careful to NOT put different lengths of the same
size rivet (eg AN426-AD3-3.5 and AN426-AD3-4) in adjacent drawers so
that if one leapt into the nextdoor drawer it would be easy to identify.
(But none ever did).
Regarding some of your other questions: Most of the answers are hidden
somewhere in your construction manual. I found it pays to read ahead --
often the answer to an immediate question is half a page further down.
You might also want to go to http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm --
my RV-6 building experiences can be found there (plus answers to
questions like 'what size hole for what size rivet?').
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip up canopy handle |
Most I have seen just rivet a 1" piece of .063 angle on the side of the
canopy skirt. Works well, is small and inconspicuous when painted.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 11:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 tip up canopy handle
>
> How do the rest of you lift your RV-6 tip up canopies? I made several
> different variations of a handle made of aluminum angle. The first I bent
> from left over sheet stock. That last I made of various sizes of angle.
> None of them look very good sticking out of the side of the canopy frame.
> Any good ideas, or shall I stay with ugly but functional?
>
> Steve Soule
> RV-6A
> Huntington, Vermont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | flaps, flareing tool |
Two questions? Anyone know where to buy a 37 degree flaring tool for
less than $75.00? And on the RV4 I am trying to install the flap linkage
and it looks like I will have to have a notch on the side of fuselage
to get clearance for the rod end bolt or the flaps will not retract
completely. I did not see mention of this in instructions or plans.
Earl working on flap linkage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip up canopy handle |
>
>How do the rest of you lift your RV-6 tip up canopies? I made several
>different variations of a handle made of aluminum angle. The first I bent
>from left over sheet stock. That last I made of various sizes of angle.
>None of them look very good sticking out of the side of the canopy frame.
>Any good ideas, or shall I stay with ugly but functional?
>
>Steve Soule
>RV-6A
>Huntington, Vermont
Steve,
I used a short length of aluminum tubing with a round head, phillips head
screw through it. I think it was a #8 screw. It stuck out just a bit over
1/2", if I remember correctly and it was painted along with the canopy. I
thought it was very unobtrusive and looked a bit better than angles.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | dustin(at)busprod.com |
| From: | "charles young" <charles(at)onramp.net> |
Dustin:
I have a new, never used, exhaust system build by Allen Tolle.
Mr. Tolle has built several RV's and is a close friend of Vans, he builds
these exhaust on a demand basis, or so I am told.
It was purchased by me with a lot of other RV parts several years ago.
I am in the Dallas, Texas area.
Would like to get $250.00 plus shipping.
Charles Young
RV-6A
http://rampages.onramp.net/~charles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flaps, flareing tool |
Why buy? Borrow! Check with you local EAA Chapter. Many have a tool
library. If your chapter doesn't. Have them start one. Using the correct
tool is is the way to go but once you have used it, you will probably never
need it again. So get your EAA chapter on the ball.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 2:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: flaps, flareing tool
>
>Two questions? Anyone know where to buy a 37 degree flaring tool for
>less than $75.00? And on the RV4 I am trying to install the flap linkage
>and it looks like I will have to have a notch on the side of fuselage
>to get clearance for the rod end bolt or the flaps will not retract
>completely. I did not see mention of this in instructions or plans.
>
>Earl working on flap linkage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Strandjord" <emstrand(at)isd.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Choice.... |
Hi, I am about to purchage the engine for my RV8 and am wondering if anyone
has a strong feelings concerning a new O360-A1A from Van's verses then same
from Aero-Sport?
Thanks.!
Eric. (RV8 - 81057)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank pop rivets |
On the inboard rib, I am thinking of attaching the T-405 tank attach angle
and T-410 reinforcing plate to the T-803 inboard rib first and using Cherry
Max flush head aluminum stuctural rivets for the 5 locations in the skin
blocked by the T-405. Any better ideas?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | New Hardware Supplier |
I found a hardware distributor that sells to avionics shops, FBO's, etc.
They will sell to individuals, too. Their prices are about the same as
ordering through Van's, but they have a very detailed catalog with pictures
of all hardware, cross reference sheets, etc.
Their selection is excellent. Any piece of AN hardware you will need, they
have it...I would highly recommend requesting one of their free catalogs to
keep in the shop.
East Coast Aviation Supplies (aka ECAS, Inc)
http://www.eastaviation.com
407-727-0047
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
Could be a serious debate here, but from what many will tell you is, save
your money and buy an Aero Sport engine. The warranty does not start
ticking until you first run it, not when you buy it. That was a BIG selling
point for me, as you can never know when you will actually start flying
after you receive your engine. I am sure you have heard all of the great
stories about Bart's engines, so that won't be necessary. The bottom line
is, you can save big bucks for an equivalent engine with a better warranty,
and better service. The only drawback is your engine will always be an
experimental engine..(so what!) Not to mention, there is not a better
person to deal with than Bart Lalonde. He is truly a class act, and a very
honest businessman. You can bet that when I am flying, I am going to take
the long haul from Arizona to Kamloops, BC to say hi, and to personally
thank him for such a great product and service.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric M. Strandjord" <emstrand(at)isd.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 4:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Choice....
>
> Hi, I am about to purchage the engine for my RV8 and am wondering if
anyone
> has a strong feelings concerning a new O360-A1A from Van's verses then
same
> from Aero-Sport?
>
> Thanks.!
>
> Eric. (RV8 - 81057)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
Harbor freight has a self contained (no compressor) HVLP setup on sale
for $129. See it at
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?Itemnumber=40545.
Anyone have any experience with this or similar units? I'm thinking of
getting this, and would like to know if it is worth it.
Jeff Point
jpoint(at)execpc.com
-6 elevators
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
>
>Hi, I am about to purchage the engine for my RV8 and am wondering if
>anyone
>has a strong feelings concerning a new O360-A1A from Van's verses then
>same
>from Aero-Sport?
>
>Thanks.!
>
>Eric. (RV8 - 81057)
Eric,
With new Lycoming, you really have a new engine. Warranties are cool things
to have. You also have to run it hard, and SOON so the rings seat properly.
This makes extensive ground running to test systems and to taxi around with
a silly grin on your face rather a dicey proposition for engine longevity.
With Bart's engine, he can customize the accessories to suit what YOU want.
It also needs to be run in a similar fashion as the new factory engine,
however. His quality is beyond compare and a nicer man to deal with on such
an expensive investment cannot be found anywhere. I was VERY close to
buying one from him, then I found a low time used engine and saved a few
bucks. (It is running perfectly, by the way.)
If I were still shopping for an engine, I would opt for one of Bart's
engines. It isn't a "new" engine, but it will look like one and you will
know you're behind an engine built by someone with exacting standard's who
is also an RV builder. Gotta love that.
It's a major decision to make, so take your time and make sure YOU are
comfortable with it. Either way, you'll have a quality powerplant for your
RV.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
inspection done. Time to fly...when the wind quits!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet wing skeleton before aligning skins? |
Re: Rivet Skeleton first?
I'm now finishing off a RV-6 wing, and I cleco'd EVERYTHING first.
Long story short, it's tight as a drum, and lines up to the "Tee".
Cleco-n-go method works. Only tricky part was that dang'd flap bracket!
The rivet sequence here is painfully detailed. I had to drill out the
outter plate THREE TIMES before I learned this lesson.. :=(
Bottom line..
This assumption is absolutely correct. Got pictures to prove it :=)
> Why? The clecos cause metal to metal contact. How can it get any
> "tighter"?. Unless you are using warnout clecos or your clecos are
> under strain (then you'll have other wing problems) the cleco-n-go
> method will work just fine.
RJ in CT (it's cold/wet here too)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
In a message dated 12/14/99 7:20:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jpoint(at)execpc.com writes:
>
> Harbor freight has a self contained (no compressor) HVLP setup on sale
> for $129. See it at
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?Itemnumber=40545.
> Anyone have any experience with this or similar units? I'm thinking of
> getting this, and would like to know if it is worth it.
>
> Jeff Point
> jpoint(at)execpc.com
> -6 elevators
> Milwaukee, WI
>
Jeff, I would be skeptical of the $129.00 HVLP gun if you want to use it to
paint your plane. If it's just for primer, what the heck. Most primer gets
sanded of anyway. Good gun/turbine systems cost about $500+.
I just purchased a gravity feed Devilbiss HVLP from HF for $170.00 that does
need a compressor and, once I got the hang of it, I'm impressed by how much
paint it saves and how much less overspray. You can really throttle it down
and still get a good finish. The gun will pay for itself in lower paint
costs. I should have bought it long ago to have saved a good bit on primer.
Brian Eckstein
6a panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
Well, I hate to disagree with my buddy Brian, but not enough to stop me from doing
it :-)
At the time I was engine shopping, there was only about $4k difference between
Bart and new. Now
$4k is a lot of money in the short run, but in the long run, it's probably nothing.
I'd be willing
to bet that the resale of two otherwise identical planes would favor the one with
the factory new
engine. I guarantee it would if I were the buyer, so you could consider the money
an investment.
Don't get me wrong, Bart has a loyal following for a very good reason- he's earned
it by putting out
high quality engine, but for the difference in price, new made more sense to me.
Good luck with your decision. Either way, you'll have great engine.
Rusty
>
> Hi, I am about to purchage the engine for my RV8 and am wondering if anyone
> has a strong feelings concerning a new O360-A1A from Van's verses then same
> from Aero-Sport?
>
> Thanks.!
>
> Eric. (RV8 - 81057)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> I can't say for sure but it sounds like this technician is padding
> his
> time.
> When doing this type of check, all of the checks on the instruments
> are
> done in the airplane. In reality it is the instrument system that
> is
> being checked, not just the instruments.
> Normally the checks would be done, and if problems (leaks or
> instrument
> errors) are found... Then the system is disassembled, and problems
> or
> instruments are repaired or replaced.
> I have been present for many IFR certifications that took much less
> than
> an hour (because there were no problems).
>
>
> I don't think he is padding his time because I have a fixed bid from
> him.
> He said that it would take about two hours and I think it will take
> just a
> little more than that. I'm sure he could check the instruments in
> the plane
> but I have a removable section for my flying/nav instruments so that
> made
> taking it out very easy. There are two other folks to go to around
> here
> that give the check within an hour. My avionics shop recommended
> this guy
> for a new installation because he is so thorough. I could have gone
> with
> someone quicker and maybe even cheaper but....
> If you read FAR 43.17 Appendix E just looking at the Scale Error
> test
> (Subparagraph i)
> Each test point must be maintained for at least a minute (both up
> and down)
> minimum
> just for the scale error test. This appendex has six subchapters of
> tests to
> perform.
-
Yes, but these other 6 tests are for the most part completed while doing
the scale error test.
I do know there are a lot of technicians that will take your money and
sign a log book. I was in no way promoting that type of activity.
You mention that this person is just being thorough. I guess I see it as
a poor use of time since once he removes, tests, and replaces the
instruments he has to do all of the tests over again with them installed
in the airplane. I fail to see the advantage in removing everything
first without even knowing if there is a problem.
The important thing is that you are happy with the price, and the work
that is completed. It sounds like you are.
I only provided my post because your description was far from the way
this type of test is normally done, and I was hoping to help save you
from a possible excessive charge.
I do still stand by my orig. post that all of the required tests can
easily be completed in an hour with no cheating. I did say this would
not allow for any troubleshooting or leak repairs.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
Jeff,
I bought this exact model a couple of months ago and have loved it. I feel that
it is well made and does a very good job of spraying. I would highly recommend
it.
MIke Robertson
RV-8A QB
In a message dated Tue, 14 Dec 1999 7:59:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, Jeff Point
writes:
>
> Harbor freight has a self contained (no compressor) HVLP setup on sale
> for $129. See it at
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?Itemnumber=40545.
> Anyone have any experience with this or similar units? I'm thinking of
> getting this, and would like to know if it is worth it.
>
> Jeff Point
> jpoint(at)execpc.com
> -6 elevators
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
In a message dated 12/14/99 6:20:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
emstrand(at)isd.net writes:
> Hi, I am about to purchage the engine for my RV8 and am wondering if anyone
> has a strong feelings concerning a new O360-A1A from Van's verses then
same
> from Aero-Sport?
>
> Thanks.!
>
> Eric. (RV8 - 81057)
>
Hi Eric,
FWIW, I just ordered an IO-360-A1A from Aero Sport for my RV-8. I figured
that I'd save some $$ over a new engine from Van's, plus I'd be able to get
it configured as I'd like from a reputable source. I was told to expect a
June delivery, so I've got some building to do! Back to it...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
| Subject: | band saw or scroll saw |
I originally bought a scroll saw instead of a band saw. I now have a benchtop
Sears bandsaw that I love, and the scroll saw is looking for a home.
Ed Wischmeyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics suggestions |
Kitplanes Aug and Oct 1998 issues.
>
>>
>> I am planning a *very* light IFR panel with:
>>
>> NAV with GS
>> COMM radio
>> IFR GPS
>> Marker beacon receiver
>>
>> My question is about tying together the audio. I won't use all of
>> the
>> channels/features of a full audio panel/MB receiver like a KMA-24 or
>> 26. Does anyone know of a good way to hook the NAV, COMM, MB and
>> intercom without an expensive audio panel? Is there a simple unit
>> out
>> there? The simplest I've seen is KMA-20 but I could use even less.
>>
>A Kitplanes artical by Jim Wier a while back discussed how to maker your
>own audio mixing panel with simple circuits to balance all of the audio
>levels and make them work together.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
>These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
>reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mel Jordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
Not intending to in any way detract from Bart's fine engines, I think a
couple of points should be made clear to those considering their engine
choice.
First, the engine from Bart's is not an IO-360, it is an O-360 with fuel
injection. There are some pretty big differences such as a counter balanced
crank, oil spray on the piston skirts and others, so if you compare the
Barts engine to a Lycoming IO-360, it is a bit apple and oranges.
Second, regarding warranty, I will quote from the Lycoming Operator's manual
for the O-360:
"...one (1) year from the date of first operation, excluding necessary
aircraft acceptance testing. The date of firsrt operation must not exceed
two (2) years from the date of shipment from Textron Lycoming." The
warranty card also requests the "in service date".
Just a couple of points for clarification. Either choice seems a good one,
just consider all the points and decide which weigh the greatest for you.
Mel Jordan, RV6A
Tucson, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Choice....
>
> Could be a serious debate here, but from what many will tell you is, save
> your money and buy an Aero Sport engine. The warranty does not start
> ticking until you first run it, not when you buy it. That was a BIG
selling
> point for me, as you can never know when you will actually start flying
> after you receive your engine. I am sure you have heard all of the great
> stories about Bart's engines, so that won't be necessary. The bottom line
> is, you can save big bucks for an equivalent engine with a better
warranty,
> and better service. The only drawback is your engine will always be an
> experimental engine..(so what!) Not to mention, there is not a better
> person to deal with than Bart Lalonde. He is truly a class act, and a
very
> honest businessman. You can bet that when I am flying, I am going to take
> the long haul from Arizona to Kamloops, BC to say hi, and to personally
> thank him for such a great product and service.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric M. Strandjord" <emstrand(at)isd.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 4:15 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Choice....
>
>
> >
> > Hi, I am about to purchage the engine for my RV8 and am wondering if
> anyone
> > has a strong feelings concerning a new O360-A1A from Van's verses then
> same
> > from Aero-Sport?
> >
> > Thanks.!
> >
> > Eric. (RV8 - 81057)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Incidence tweaking |
><<< There are also concentric sleeves (Cessna wings have 'em) or bushings
>that have a hex face that you insert in your rear spar hole....you can do
>so fine tuning with incidence adjustment with these fellas..... >>>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Could you elaborate on this please? We ARE talking about the wing spar,
>right--and if so, is this a way to correct "heavy wing" instead of beating
>on/squeezing the ailerons? I'd rather have my ailerons "in trail" instead
>of upsie-downsie.... Specifics would be great.
I think that "heavy wing syndrome" is usually caused by the ailerons not
being perfectly straight in the first place. Its not that hard to get the
wings lined up, but it doesn't take much "bulge" in an aileron skin to make
the wing light (opposite wing heavy). Build the plane straight, adjust the
incidence per spec, and then deal with minor aileron adjustments if they
come up. In my case both my ailerons were "puffy", one more than the other,
so one wing was heavy. I just squeezed them both straight as best I could
using a straightedge to check all along the surface as I went and the
heaviness went away.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: dustin(at)busprod.com |
In a message dated 12/14/99 3:15:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
charles(at)onramp.net writes:
<< I have a new, never used, exhaust system build by Allen Tolle.
Mr. Tolle has built several RV's and is a close friend of Vans, he builds
these exhaust on a demand basis, or so I am told.
It was purchased by me with a lot of other RV parts several years ago.
I am in the Dallas, Texas area.
Would like to get $250.00 plus shipping. >>
Caveat emptor. Mr. Tolle was a good builder, but a poor exhaust system
fabricator. Say no to Crack.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dustin(at)busprod.com |
A lot of us RV builders can agree with the cracked exhaust at about 40
hours. Voice of experience talking.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: dustin(at)busprod.com
>
> In a message dated 12/14/99 3:15:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> charles(at)onramp.net writes:
>
> << I have a new, never used, exhaust system build by Allen Tolle.
>
> Mr. Tolle has built several RV's and is a close friend of Vans, he builds
> these exhaust on a demand basis, or so I am told.
>
> It was purchased by me with a lot of other RV parts several years ago.
>
> I am in the Dallas, Texas area.
>
> Would like to get $250.00 plus shipping. >>
>
> Caveat emptor. Mr. Tolle was a good builder, but a poor exhaust system
> fabricator. Say no to Crack.
>
> -GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fairing |
>>
> Also, has anyone got any experience of Tracy Saylor's left-hand throttle
> modification for the RV-6?
>
> Ed Hicks.
> Planning to order RV-6QB.
> Bristol, UK.
Ed, I sat in Tracy's plane last summer at Oshkosh, and I generally liked
his three lever quadrant. My only comment is that it seemed unnaturally
high, with the throttle lever handle being about at longeron level. Don't
know how much lower one could mount it, but if your plans are formation, it
looked a little uncomfortable. I would prefer one which allows me to use
the armrest somehow to stabilize my arm.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fairing |
Where do we find Tracy Saylor?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Anyone else out there have preview plans and construction manual for sale
for RV-6A?
Steve Hurlbut
Comox, BC
shurlbut(at)island.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank pop rivets |
Steve,
I'm not at my plans, but if this is basically the same as an RV4, I just
finished this without pop rivets.
I riveted the end rib to the skin, then riveted the attach angle and
reinforcing plate next, in the same proseal session. It is pretty easy,
though the long -4 rivets that go through the angle take quite a few hits
with the rivet gun. The only downside is that you have to buck the rivets as
opposed to squeezing them. Just say NO to pop rivets!
Hope this helps.
Aloha, Russ
Maui
-----Original Message-----
>On the inboard rib, I am thinking of attaching the T-405 tank attach angle
>and T-410 reinforcing plate to the T-803 inboard rib first and using Cherry
>Max flush head aluminum stuctural rivets for the 5 locations in the skin
>blocked by the T-405. Any better ideas?
>
>Steve Johnson
>RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
I'm going to slightly disagree with Brian.
A few months back, there was discussion on the list about HVLP guns and the
Sharpe Cobalt gun. I found a local distributor who sold me the gun (list
price $149) for $129. I've been spraying DuPont Imron metalflake paint with
it for about two months now. It is a great gun and the results have been
nothing short of superb. Of course, I'm sure the operator is the reason :>/
I think Sharpe's home page is www.sharpe1.com. I sent them an e-mail for
the location of a local dealer.
For the money, I think it provides you the benefits of HVLP without the big
investment. Just my opinion, it's worth what you paid for it.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
-----Original Message-----
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com <BSEckstein(at)cs.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Sprayer
>
>In a message dated 12/14/99 7:20:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>jpoint(at)execpc.com writes:
>
>>
>> Harbor freight has a self contained (no compressor) HVLP setup on sale
>> for $129. See it at
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?Itemnumber=40545.
>> Anyone have any experience with this or similar units? I'm thinking of
>> getting this, and would like to know if it is worth it.
>>
>> Jeff Point
>> jpoint(at)execpc.com
>> -6 elevators
>> Milwaukee, WI
>>
>Jeff, I would be skeptical of the $129.00 HVLP gun if you want to use it to
>paint your plane. If it's just for primer, what the heck. Most primer
gets
>sanded of anyway. Good gun/turbine systems cost about $500+.
>
>I just purchased a gravity feed Devilbiss HVLP from HF for $170.00 that
does
>need a compressor and, once I got the hang of it, I'm impressed by how much
>paint it saves and how much less overspray. You can really throttle it
down
>and still get a good finish. The gun will pay for itself in lower paint
>costs. I should have bought it long ago to have saved a good bit on
primer.
>
>Brian Eckstein
>6a panel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Dimpling the wing rear spar |
Listers,
After completely assembling both wings with only clecos, I have now
disassembled them. I am currently Alodining and epoxy priming all my
parts before reassembly. I would like comments from those builders who
dimpled the rear spar flanges (as opposed to countersinking) as to the
results they got. Did the dimpling distort the spar? Were you able to
straighten it? Any good tips for doing this? Forget it, it's a disaster,
etcetera.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings everything is a greenish, yellow fog. Why are my shoes
yellow? At least they'll never corrode! :-)
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | Engine Choice... |
Paul,
I bought a Overhauled O-360 A1A from Lycoming. The warranty
doesn't start until I start my engine, just like Bart's. I know this
for a fact. I believe it is the same for the new engines also.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stefan King <seking(at)xoommail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
Jeff Point wrote:
> Harbor freight has a self contained (no compressor) HVLP setup on sale
> for $129. See it at
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?Itemnumber=40545.
> Anyone have any experience with this or similar units? I'm thinking of
> getting this, and would like to know if it is worth it.
Jeff, a short time ago there was a post about an HVLP gun (for primer use)
from Harbor Freight that was on-sale, on-line. Here's the link to it:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38308
However, I found the EXACT gun in the HF fall catalog for $10.00
CHEAPER... (catalog number 38308-1RDH) so do your homework first. HF uses
a different partnumber-dashnumber seqence for the SAME items with
DIFFERENT prices. I noticed this and saved myself another $10 when I
ordered mine last week...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fairing |
>There seem to be a whole variety of alternative gear leg and wheel
>fairings, but does anyone make a empennage fairing to replace the polyester
>item supplied in the kit?
>Ed Hicks.
>Planning to order RV-6QB.
>Bristol, UK.
Ed,
You can use the empenage fairing as a mold and make a one laminate
fairing that can easily be made to contour to the vert. & hor. stabs.
Then, lay 3 laminates over the single laminate while in place on the
airplane. Use epoxy and fine weave cloth. There's more info in the archive.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Identifications |
I found it easier to break down all the bags into their individual
components. If I need an AN4-4 bolt I just go to the AN4-4 drawer, not
through all the little bags. Very few odd-ball parts that need their
own place.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling the wing rear spar |
Charlie:
I dimpled the rear spar and then went back over with a slight countersink.
The areas at the inboard and outboard ends may have to be countersunk as the
reinforcement pieces on the bottom of the spar prevent you from getting your
dimpler in position.
I am happy with my results.
Len
RV-8A
Skinning Wings in N.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Builders Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fairing |
> >There seem to be a whole variety of alternative gear leg and wheel
> >fairings, but does anyone make a empennage fairing to replace the polyester
> >item supplied in the kit?
>
> >Ed Hicks.
> >Planning to order RV-6QB.
> >Bristol, UK.
On my 6A's tail fairing, I mixed a good sized batch of fairly dry slurry (epoxy
resin with a lot of micro bubbles), coated it heavily on the back of the
fuselage, the stabilizer and rudder surfaces (with release tape of course) and
then layed down the fairing that Vans supplied. Press down hard on the fairing
so
that the slurry squeezes through all the gaps, do whatever touchup you have to,
and then squegee as much of the excess away that you can before it dries. You'll
still have some sanding and touch-up to do when it dries, but when it does, you
will have a customized tail fairing that fits perfectly to your plane.
There is a considerable amount of glass work to do with the finishing kit. It's
like a dirty little secret that Van doesn't talk about. Its not a real bad job
and you do get a lot of satisfaction when it comes out right, although I doubt
I'd want to build a whole plane out of the stuff.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet wing skeleton before aligning skins? |
In a message dated 12/15/1999, 8:22:58 AM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<>
Because I finished my RV-6 5 years ago and have over 400 hours on it. BTW, my
wing skins are very tight and everything lines-up perfectly.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice... |
If I remember correctly the warrenty on my Lyc purchased from vans went
like this:
The engine had to be placed into service two years from the date of
purchase and then the warranty started on the "placed into service date"
I also had to have warranty work done on my engine. Lycoming sent a
field service rep to my hangar and he installed a complete new jug for
free. This was done about 4 months after I placed the engine into
service and about a year and a half after I purchased the unit. Several
months after that Lycoming also replaced a starter free of charge.
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fairing |
Here is Tracy's Info
Tracy Saylor
PO Box 856
Santa Paula, CA 93060
805 933-8225
>
>Where do we find Tracy Saylor?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
Randy, what is the name and phone number of the place you bought the gun from?
The dealer in my area Keeps trying to sell me a different brand every time I ask
for the Sharpe gun. I guess he makes more on it. He also wants $159.00 for the
Cobalt.
Garry LeGare, 6/180 lyc/sensenich/finishing
Randy J. Pflanzer wrote:
>
> I'm going to slightly disagree with Brian.
>
> A few months back, there was discussion on the list about HVLP guns and the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
Harbor Freight Tools - I suspect what these folks do is buy products from
the manufacturers in Asia and elsewhere. These manufacturers have names
you would not recognize because they sell their products to companies like
Sharpe, DeVilbiss and the like who perform three important marketing functions:
Quality control
Advertising
Service & Support
When I was a Honda motorcycle dealer in the sixties, one of our
distributors was doing this. You could get the same products from him for
much less than from Honda and major accessory distributors. Same product
with less to none of these three functions.
I have bought some Hbr Frt stuff that was junk but most is as good as any
for my purposes which does not include production use. My wife, an
optician, said one of the pliers they had for about $3 looked like an
unpolished version of what opticians pay $30 for!
Selling price, as you know, has ***NOTHING*** to do with quality! Neither
has advertising, flashy packaging, salesmen's puffery etc etc. Sadly,
name brands means less than it used to.
Caveat emptor.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling the wing rear spar |
I dimpled the rear spars on both wings every where I could reach with the
hand squeezer. It turned out fine.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, finishing up wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 5:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Dimpling the wing rear spar
>
> Listers,
> After completely assembling both wings with only clecos, I have now
> disassembled them. I am currently Alodining and epoxy priming all my
> parts before reassembly. I would like comments from those builders who
> dimpled the rear spar flanges (as opposed to countersinking) as to the
> results they got. Did the dimpling distort the spar? Were you able to
> straighten it? Any good tips for doing this? Forget it, it's a disaster,
> etcetera.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8 wings everything is a greenish, yellow fog. Why are my shoes
> yellow? At least they'll never corrode! :-)
> Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance AVEMCO EAA |
I reposted this so future archieve browsers would not miss it.( EAA &
McDonnalds, EAA & AVEMCO, EAA & VISA Card too). The comment on cherry-picking
the best pilots as led to them (AVEMCO) by EAA is right on the mark. If EAA were
representing us properly, this would not occur. I've concluded a long time ago
that the EAA has its priorities ahead of the member(s).
r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net on 12/14/99 09:29:34 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: [Fwd: RV-3 Quotation]
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:21:16 -0600
From: "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-3 Quotation
Dear Mr. Mackey,
When we had our LONG talk yesterday, little did I realize that it
would lead to this email.
Normally when I am upset, aggravated or whatever, I cool down and
usually regret my conversations that develop in the 'heat of battle'.
Not this time.
In fact, with the passing of time, I am more adamant than ever that
EAA's relationship with AVEMCO should be severed unless severely
modified.
You had no satisfactory answer for me about the Vicki Cruse example;
being turned away because of her NO TIME or LOW time.
IF EAA is to be meaningful to us members, it flies in the face of
our special relationship, EAA usefulness, etcetera to have to search
outside of the EAA-AVEMCO loop for beginner's coverage in most
every instance.
If AVEMCO wants to be more conservative than the competition, that
is fine. However EAA has no business steering a potent and sizable
market such as ourselves for AVEMCO to CHERRY PICK from !!!!!!!!
The leadership of EAA is remiss in allowing AVEMCO to to do this!
WE NEED To TAKE CARE OF OUR OWN.
I have tried to identify with your position that AVEMCO's
competitor's rates are totally predatory in nature.
Sorry. Not my job to buy that line, even if true.
You agreed with my position that I have a responsibility and
obligation to MY FAMILY to get the best deal for my wife and kids so
I can have money left for food, shoes and other goods and services.
HOW is it any different that you should not do likewise for your
EAA FAMILY?!?!?!?!??!?!
The AIG's and the Phoenix's aren't going to go out of business
with their current pricing even if it is to lure us in.
To me, it's ludicrous to pass this pricing up.
Come next year, EAA can always use its power/clout to negotiate
another deal that is better than I get get on my own.
If not, I may get to wondering what do I need you guys for
at $40 a year in the first place.
Vicki Cruse is doing better outside of AVEMCO.
I'm doing better outside of AVEMCO.
THOUSANDS of EAA members are doing better outside of AVEMCO.
EAA is just flat are not cutting it in our behalf!!!!
P.S. I never found a more likable messenger that I would hate
to shoot than yourself! [big grin]
Sincerely,
Robert R. (Bob) Urban
Lauerman, Jim wrote:
>
> Mr. Urban:
>
> While I was in Oshkosh last week Bob Mackey asked me to look into the
> quotation you received for your RV-3. As Bob described the quotation it did
> not seem to be correct to me but I wanted to get back to the office to
> research the particulars.
>
> The insurance counselor who worked up your quotation followed our standard
> procedures in rating the risk. He referred to our make and model library to
> determine what Schedule and Category to quote the RV-3 in and he entered
> that information into our rating software. He also asked you if the spar
> modification had been performed which, of course, it had.
>
> His error was that he failed to see a note in the manual on the RV-3's
> states that if the spar modification has been completed, the RV-3 is rated
> in a different (and much more favorable) category. Therefore, the quotation
> you received was for an RV-3 without the spar modification.
>
> Correctly rated, your RV-3 would be $1,031 total annual premium for the same
> liability you carry on the Ercoupe and a $25,000 hull value.
>
> I apologize that our insurance counselor made the error but it is easy to do
> when we are working with aircraft with unique issues like the spar mod on
> RV-3's. While we strive for perfection, we are still human.
>
> Please accept my apology for our counselor's error. I trust you will advise
> your RV owner friends of the correct facts in your case.
>
> I appreciate your business and wish you well in all of your endeavors,
> especially your flying.
>
> Jim Lauerman
> Executive Vice President
> Avemco Insurance Company
> 800-637-5412 Ext, 4326
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shipping to Clearwater, Florida |
I ordered a rear turtle deck skin for a rv-4 from vans & it came shipped in a
4 inch X 5 foot PVC tube.....NO KIDDING. Scott at VANS office said take
it inside to a large carpeted area (family room) and cut the tape a hold it
carefully
as it un- rolls...To my amazement the piece unrolled & took the shape (curve)
that
was pressed into it.....if I did not see this I would not have believed this.
It worked out great.
finnlassen(at)netzero.net on 12/13/99 07:51:58 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Shipping to Clearwater, Florida
I wanted to order the rear bottom fuselage skin (F-325) from Van's to
replace the one that got damaged in my RV-3 engine fire. I was told it
is too large to be shipped UPS and would have to go by truck, estimated
shipping $175 for a $66 part!
Are any of you located in East/Central Florida and expect a crate from
Van's in the next month or two? If so, I would like to include that
fuselage skin in you crate. I'll be happy to pay you a reasonable amount
for this favor.
I live in Clearwater, near Tampa.
Finn
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
A & E Tool
(800) 523-5847
They are local in Indianapolis, but they handle mail order. Be sure to
visit the Sharpe site and get the part number for the gun with the
appropriate tip for the type of paint you intend to use.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"painting"
-----Original Message-----
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Sprayer
>
>Randy, what is the name and phone number of the place you bought the gun
from?
>The dealer in my area Keeps trying to sell me a different brand every time
I ask
>for the Sharpe gun. I guess he makes more on it. He also wants $159.00 for
the
>Cobalt.
>Garry LeGare, 6/180 lyc/sensenich/finishing
>
>Randy J. Pflanzer wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm going to slightly disagree with Brian.
>>
>> A few months back, there was discussion on the list about HVLP guns and
the
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | HVLP Sprayer-Sharpe |
Find your local Sherwin Williams Automotive paint store. They are a reseller
of sharpe products..Be sure you go to the "Automotive" store, because your
average SW Paint store will not carry them..I think I paid around $150 for
my Cobalt, and it works excellent. You can see a picture and review at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/paint.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
>
> Randy, what is the name and phone number of the place you bought the gun
from?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sam James wheel pants |
I was very dissapointed with the Sam James pants. They didn't fit & they were a
bit snug in the crotch area.......all kidding aside I found the intersection
area (split seam)
to be very bad in allignment & fit. The lap joint was a joke..it was
misalligned, had gaps
and a major rework if I choose to use it. the Installation brackets took a lot
of head scratching too. One nice thing was they were translucient (no gell coat)
so you could see inside to construct the mounts.... I ended-up using the Vans
pants.
randyl(at)pacifier.com on 12/13/99 06:29:21 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Sam James wheel pants
Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on
RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out?
My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Identifications |
Use the Standard Aircraft Handbook or a good catalog like A/C Spruce to
identify hardware when in doubt. Drill sizes for bolts are found in the same
sources or are on your good quality drill gauges.
Harry Crosby
-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fairing |
<< Ed, I sat in Tracy's plane last summer at Oshkosh, and I generally liked
his three lever quadrant. My only comment is that it seemed unnaturally
high, with the throttle lever handle being about at longeron level. Don't
know how much lower one could mount it, but if your plans are formation, it
looked a little uncomfortable. I would prefer one which allows me to use
the armrest somehow to stabilize my arm.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A >>
Agreed on Tracy's installation being uncomfortably high. I've mounted mine
much lower so I can use the armrest for its intended purpose. It seems to fit
me well.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Sam James wheel pants |
I felt the same about Sam's pants. I started off with them and wasn't happy
with the results; the joint was poorly done on mine as well. I installed
them per his half page of instructions and they didn't look even when
looking at them from the front. I bought a set of Van's pressure recovery
pants and liked them much better. The instructions were MUCH better, and
all of the brackets were included. It also took much less time to install
because the directions were more concise.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Dow AgroSciences Information Management
EnterpriseWise IT Consulting
317-337-5348
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com [mailto:pcondon(at)csc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam James wheel pants
I was very dissapointed with the Sam James pants. They didn't fit & they
were a
bit snug in the crotch area.......all kidding aside I found the intersection
area (split seam)
to be very bad in allignment & fit. The lap joint was a joke..it was
misalligned, had gaps
and a major rework if I choose to use it. the Installation brackets took a
lot
of head scratching too. One nice thing was they were translucient (no gell
coat)
so you could see inside to construct the mounts.... I ended-up using the
Vans
pants.
randyl(at)pacifier.com on 12/13/99 06:29:21 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Sam James wheel pants
Sam James tells me he has at least a dozen sets of wheel pants installed on
RV-8s now. Can anyone tell me how they mounted them and how they worked out?
My understanding is that the standard aluminum mount will not work.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, getting ready to paint the interior
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shipping large sheet metal |
Re-posted for future archive searching
pcondon(at)csc.com on 12/15/99 11:45:44 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shipping to Clearwater, Florida
I ordered a rear turtle deck skin for a rv-4 from vans & it came shipped in a
4 inch X 5 foot PVC tube.....NO KIDDING. Scott at VANS office said take
it inside to a large carpeted area (family room) and cut the tape a hold it
carefully
as it un- rolls...To my amazement the piece unrolled & took the shape (curve)
that
was pressed into it.....if I did not see this I would not have believed this.
It worked out great.
finnlassen(at)netzero.net on 12/13/99 07:51:58 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Shipping to Clearwater, Florida
I wanted to order the rear bottom fuselage skin (F-325) from Van's to
replace the one that got damaged in my RV-3 engine fire. I was told it
is too large to be shipped UPS and would have to go by truck, estimated
shipping $175 for a $66 part!
Are any of you located in East/Central Florida and expect a crate from
Van's in the next month or two? If so, I would like to include that
fuselage skin in you crate. I'll be happy to pay you a reasonable amount
for this favor.
I live in Clearwater, near Tampa.
Finn
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
You probably need to get a "gun-owner's permit"
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Sprayer
>
>Randy, what is the name and phone number of the place you bought the gun
from?
>The dealer in my area Keeps trying to sell me a different brand every time
I ask
>for the Sharpe gun. I guess he makes more on it. He also wants $159.00 for
the
>Cobalt.
>Garry LeGare, 6/180 lyc/sensenich/finishing
>
>Randy J. Pflanzer wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm going to slightly disagree with Brian.
>>
>> A few months back, there was discussion on the list about HVLP guns and
the
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
There is another one Airparts Inc. in Kansas City
Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Get a shop to special order it. I just recently a few sheets of 2024-T3
from a local metals supplier; they special ordered it and it cost less per
foot than Airparts and they delivered it to the engineering shop (where a
friend is going to shear them) for FREE.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Dow AgroSciences Information Management
EnterpriseWise IT Consulting
317-337-5348
-----Original Message-----
| From: | Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net] |
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 12:48 AM
That's the problem. I haven't been able to find a local supply house that
carries 2024-T3 sheets. If you know of any or a way of finding it, please do
let me know. The closest I know of is Aircraft Spruce East in Griffin, GA.
Finn
dann mann wrote:
>
> I'm not an RV Builder but hope to be someday. Could you not simply buy a
> piece of the same gauge and alloy aluminum at you friendly local
> sheetmetal supply house? Have them shear it to size or close to it and
> take the trimmings home for future patches.
> Just a suggestion
> Dan
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List - Cost of painting an RV4 |
Listers-
will someone please tell me how much to pay for an Imron paint job on an RV4?
I'm sure it will be a lot, but it is now unpainted and has been flying for a
year.
Thanks a lot,
Jim H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
If you have an RV4 or are building one did you have to cut a notch in
the side of the fuselage to get clearance for the rod end bolt that
lifts the flap?
Thanks, Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Identifications |
Hi Harry,
Thanks for the info. I've already ordered the Standard Aircraft Handbook and
should get it tomorrow if the mail gods are on my side this week. If they're
REALLY on my side, I'll get the Craftsman air compressor I've been waiting on
for almost three weeks now. I guess that would actually be the freight gods,
though. :-) I'm getting really tired of squeezing rivets while watching my
pneumatic squeezer gather dust in its current role as the world's most
expensive paperweight. Sigh...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
In a message dated 12/15/99 12:38:12 PM Eastern Standard Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
> Use the Standard Aircraft Handbook or a good catalog like A/C Spruce to
> identify hardware when in doubt. Drill sizes for bolts are found in the
> same
> sources or are on your good quality drill gauges.
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Canopy and Pro-Seal |
Anyone know if there are any detrimental effects if Pro-seal or similiar
type material is used to attach and seal the canopy to the canopy frame.
On the right front corner my sliding canopy requires 1/4 inch shims to
match the windshield. I would like to reinforce the rivets by running a
bead of Pro-seal between the canopy and frame. Will use syringe to avoid
mess.
Comments appreciated.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
See our airport at http://www.langleyairport.bc.ca
6A-canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few static source
instruments as possible.
A follow up question would be, what's available in the class cockpit category to
replace the standard instrument cluster?
I will of course be going with the Vision Microsystems for my engine monitoring
needs but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of altimeter,
directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb, and attitude gyro.
- Jim
RV-8A QB ( N89JA - reserved )
empennage almost done...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling the wing rear spar |
> I dimpled the rear spar and then went back over with a slight countersink.
> The areas at the inboard and outboard ends may have to be countersunk as
the
> reinforcement pieces on the bottom of the spar prevent you from getting
your
> dimpler in position.
> I am happy with my results.
Ditto, this method worked perfectly for me also.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, mounting wheels
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
Check the EFIS unit on this web page. It includes all engine instruments
as well.
Its all electronic and requires no vacuum system. Also has a slave compass
system. It is what is going into my Rocket kit when it arrives in June.
http://www.archangel.com/efis.htm
The base web site address has all the details on other products they have
as well as pricing.
www.archangel.com
Scot
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>
>
>Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
>
>I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few static source
>instruments as possible.
>
>A follow up question would be, what's available in the class cockpit
>category to
>replace the standard instrument cluster?
>
>I will of course be going with the Vision Microsystems for my engine
monitoring
>needs but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of altimeter,
>directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb, and attitude gyro.
>
>- Jim
>RV-8A QB ( N89JA - reserved )
>empennage almost done...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | New gyros for sale |
I have two brand new, never used Sigmatec vacuum gyros for sale in original
boxes purchased in Sept '99
4000B vertical card DG ($495 new)
5000B AI w/ 8 degree panel tilt ($539 new)
Any reasonable offer - will ship to you UPS.
Chris Browne
770 497 8818 W or e-mail cebrowne(at)earthlink.net
Atlanta Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denton Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
>The problem is likely the transmitter final output section.
>In the MX-11 it is rather weakly designed.
>When the radios work they work great (I used to work as a dealer for them
>years ago), but the transmitter is not very durable.
>TKM has always had a very good customer service program and (as another
>post mentioned) they are likely to turn it around very quickly for you.
>Of course, check the rest of the system to be sure it hasn't developed
>another problem... then box it up and send it to Scottsdale AZ.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
I sent my TMK MX-11 to the factory a few days ago. Their tech guy, Earl,
called to- day to let me know what he found. I did not follow much of what
he had to say, other then the transmission gain was to high which he will
adjust. He said that can cause garbled transmission. He also suggested a
couple of up grades that the newer radios have that is to take care of the
transmission problems in older models. Earl said that this should take care
of it. Maybe they are addressing the problem you mentioned about the
transmission problems in their new units, Scott. Mine is several years
old, but new. Bought from a builder who changed his mind.
Have a great Day!
Denny Harjehausen
Lebanon, OR
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling the wing rear spar |
>
>Charlie:
>
>I dimpled the rear spar and then went back over with a slight countersink.
>The areas at the inboard and outboard ends may have to be countersunk as the
>reinforcement pieces on the bottom of the spar prevent you from getting your
>dimpler in position.
>
>I am happy with my results.
>
>Len
I was able to dimple all the rear spar, by bending the inboard flange
up slightly to get the dimple die in. I may have used a dimple die
with a flat side too (my memory isn't what it used to be). After
dimpling, I bent the flange back, and everything worked out great.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings skinned, getting ready to do fuselage)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
| From: | "James Freeman" <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
----------
>From: Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com>
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit
>Date: Wed, Dec 15, 1999, 4:48 PM
>
> Its all electronic and requires no vacuum system. Also has a slave compass
> system. It is what is going into my Rocket kit when it arrives in June.
>
> http://www.archangel.com/efis.htm
>
> The base web site address has all the details on other products they have
> as well as pricing.
>
> www.archangel.com
>
> Scot
WARNING: unsubstantiated opinion and hearsay follows!
I have been interested in the glass cockpits and following them for some
time. IIRC the Archangel panel was in Jim Rahm's (?sp) beautiful Lancair
IV-P that was featured in Sport Aviation a while back. Rumor has it that he
got so fed up with poor reliability and support that he yanked the system
after OSH this year.
You might want to do a deja.news search in rec.aviation.homebuilt. The
glass panel from sierra flight systems (in the yeller pages) looks like it
is more carefully thought out (IMHO) and is getting very good reviews.
I have no direct experience with either system.
James Freeman
RV-8 QB fuse sloooooowly......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
Your right. They must have taken that info off since the last time I looked.
The whole IFR capable system with full engine instrumentation was about
$25,000. That is pricy but a traditional IFR panel with all new components
and full vacuum system, HSI, slave compass, etc which is comparable to this
system, would be $18,000 to 25,000. The other side is the reliability of a
non-vacuum, no gyro system. That is tough to measure in terms of dollars.
scot
>
>Scot,
>
>If you don't mind me asking, how much are we talking about for the Archangel
>System?
>
>I've been out to their website but I can find no mention of pricing.
>
>- Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 6A QB Aileron / Wing Mounting |
| From: | Jack and/or Kate <jgh(at)iavbbs.com> |
After carefully making the wood wing templates recommended for hanging
the ailerons, it appears Van's paper template is about 1" shorter than it
should be. If you have encountered the same situation, how did you
remedy it?
Any recommendations concerning the size and type of a rotary file
appropriate for enlarging the hole the aileron pushrod passes through?
Source?
Jack H.
jgh(at)iavbbs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/15/1999 6:06:28 PM Central Standard Time,
stambaug(at)qualcomm.com writes:
<< Your right. They must have taken that info off since the last time I
looked.
The whole IFR capable system with full engine instrumentation was about
$25,000. That is pricy but a traditional IFR panel with all new components
and full vacuum system, HSI, slave compass, etc which is comparable to this
system, would be $18,000 to 25,000. The other side is the reliability of a
non-vacuum, no gyro system. That is tough to measure in terms of dollars.
scot
>>
I am not sure on this put that one Lanceair IVP that has been setting all the
records in the races used this type of system. he pulled it out as he has
had some many problems with it.
SO you might want to check into the reliability of this system.
Chris WIlcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
Not possible. The cost would have to be about $5000 if it were TSO'd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes Part I |
I would have to agree with Scott here. I have overseen many a check and they
never take out the instruments unless there is a system problem and they have
to isolate it.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A QB Aileron / Wing Mounting |
On the aileron push rod opening, I started with a 3/4", hole per
plans, with a unibit. Then "kidney" shaped it with a 1/2" grinding
wheel in my drill. Then finished it with a old worn out 1" scotchbrite
wheel on my die grinder. There is a lot of putting the whole assembly
together and seeing where it hits. Don't go overboard. How you mount
the aileron side of the push rod will affect the hole size. If you
used rivets on the push rod, be sure they clear too.
Hope this helps.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Finish kit on order
>
>Any recommendations concerning the size and type of a rotary file
>appropriate for enlarging the hole the aileron pushrod passes through?
>Source?
>
>Jack H.
>jgh(at)iavbbs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flaps once more |
YES! There is a picture showing it on the back of the
last page of fuselage instructions. there is an elongated
hole on bottom of fuse with oblong slot continuing up
the side of the fuse, measure carefully cut as small as
possible.
Wayne RV4 wing fairings.
EARL FORTNER wrote:
> If you have an RV4 or are building one did you have to cut a notch in
> the side of the fuselage to get clearance for the rod end bolt that
> lifts the flap?
> Thanks, Earl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Shipping to Clearwater, Florida |
Finn,
There is a really great aircraft aluminium company here in Fort Lauderdale called
Future Metals. I bought 2 5' X 12' sheets from them, to make my 1 piece wing
main skins with. Their price was even better than Van's. They will apply PVC
(plastic coating) if you request it. (You can't get that from Air Parts) Best of
all, they delivered the sheets to my door and accepted my Visa card for payment.
They provide complete manufacturing documentation for the FAA. I learned about
them from a local A&P. They have 5 locations around the country. I can provide
more info off list if you are interested .
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
>
> I wanted to order the rear bottom fuselage skin (F-325) from Van's to
> replace the one that got damaged in my RV-3 engine fire. I was told it
> is too large to be shipped UPS and would have to go by truck, estimated
> shipping $175 for a $66 part!
>
> Are any of you located in East/Central Florida and expect a crate from
> Van's in the next month or two? If so, I would like to include that
> fuselage skin in you crate. I'll be happy to pay you a reasonable amount
> for this favor.
>
> I live in Clearwater, near Tampa.
>
> Finn
>
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List - Cost of painting an RV4 |
I just got price of $4300 plus ~ $500 for paint (don't remember brand/type)
2 colors I don't know if this is good price or not, maybe others will respond.
Wayne RV4 wing fairings.
JHeadric(at)aol.com wrote:
> will someone please tell me how much to pay for an Imron paint job on an RV4?
> I'm sure it will be a lot, but it is now unpainted and has been flying for a
> year.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Fuel Cap Engraving Last Ones for the group deal |
Group
I did get my supply of caps today to replace the few that I messed up. So
hopefully they will be going out in the next couple of days. Sorry about the
delay but STUFF happens, if you catch my drift. the ones that I have in house
left from the group deal are below.
Thanks
Steve Davis
Jim Lane
John Wigmore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
George McNutt wrote:
>
> Anyone know if there are any detrimental effects if Pro-seal or similiar
> type material is used to attach and seal the canopy to the canopy frame.
>
> On the right front corner my sliding canopy requires 1/4 inch shims to
> match the windshield. I would like to reinforce the rivets by running a
> bead of Pro-seal between the canopy and frame. Will use syringe to avoid
> mess.
George, a product that I used on my RV-3 canopy and is used exclusively
on by Pitts and Christian Eagles canopies is a 3M product called Scotch-Weld
2216B/A. Great stuff!! After it cures, you can sand/file it to conform to
any shape. It takes paint every well. I used it extensively with excellent
results. I used it to fill the area between the plexiglas and aluminium
frame. Pitts uses it to set their canopy to the frame and doesn't use many
additional fasteners. Next time you're near a Pitts, look at their canopy
system. You'll see very quickly how they used this 3M product. I would image
that another 3M product, DP-190, would work as well. Spruce sells it.
Chuck Brietigam----RV-3's forever!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A QB Aileron / Wing Mounting |
I am presently cutting holes in my RV4 for the flap linkage. A Dremel
mototool with a 1/4 inch cutter works great.
Jack and/or Kate wrote:
>
>
> After carefully making the wood wing templates recommended for hanging
> the ailerons, it appears Van's paper template is about 1" shorter than it
> should be. If you have encountered the same situation, how did you
> remedy it?
>
> Any recommendations concerning the size and type of a rotary file
> appropriate for enlarging the hole the aileron pushrod passes through?
> Source?
>
> Jack H.
> jgh(at)iavbbs.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Sprayer |
I visit Harbor Freight regularly and they sell both good and bad. Don't
expect German qality but the stuff is usable. One Item in particular
that I own is some dial calipers. These are Taiwanese and cost all of
$15. They are as far as I can tell virtually identical to the Mitutoyo
brand which cost $70. They are very accurate and I use the daily. Nice
little case too.
I have no idea how such a precision item can be sold at retail for so
little, unless the other brand is a pure rip-off. Name brands mean
virtually nothing. Anyone can be a name brand in todays market.
An hvlp sprayer is basically the blower end of a vacuum cleaner with a
reconfigured gun attached. In fact I connected an HVLP gun to a shop vac
once and it sprayed just fine.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Airbox and Nose Gear Clearance |
When I attach my airbox to my O-360 I find that it contacts the nose gear at
the rear of the box. Have any of you nosegear fellas had this problem? Did
you cut the box and put in a fiberglass recess in the box?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot-Static Woes Part I |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
>Anyone know if there are any detrimental effects if Pro-seal or similiar
>type material is used to attach and seal the canopy to the canopy frame.
Pro-seal works well, and won't harm the plexi. But I found a product that
also works very well (recommended to me by a Mooney owner who used it on his
windshield reinstall). It's called Lexel, and is a hardware store item. It's
clear, paintable, bonds very well, stays flexible, doesn't craze the plexi
(per the product literature and also my own and others' experience) and
cleans up with alcohol or Naptha (also OK on the plexi). Had it on for a
couple of years now with no ill effects. Drilled out and readjusted part of
the fairing at one point, and confirmed how well it bonds...! :-}
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan&Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | rv3 engine mount |
Anybody out there have an extra rv3 engine mount you want to get rid of? I
would be happy to pay a reasonable price for such an item. The engine size
does not matter, I am simply looking for a sample to build a tooling jig
for the landing gear angles. Thanks in advance....Evan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
>
> Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
>
See FAR 91.201. Also been posted here before, should be in the archives.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling the wing rear spar |
Hey Charlie, I was able to easily dimple the rear spar without any
distortion. I beveled out the dimples with a electric screwdriver deburring
tool I got from Cleveland (sorry George). Where the spar doublers for the
aileron hinges are I countersunk since there was extra thickness to control
the cutter pilot. I also had to csk down at the root end where the extra
thickness of the rear attach plate prevents access with a squezer. I did make
up a small backing plate for this area so the holes wouldn't egg out from a
wandering cutter. Andy Johnson, left wing, leading edge, top skins on,
working on mounting the aileron.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
>2. Earlier posts had referred to Bart's engine as an IO-360. It is not
>an IO-360. A person may believe that they will get an angle valve, 200HP
>engine from Barts, and compare this to the $28K engine from Van's and
>believe that there is a much bigger price difference than there really is.
>
>Sorry Lucky, but I am not really sure what is vague about these statements
>or points
I think maybe he was asking what are the differences other than cost and the
fact that some parts are different? I don't know the whole answer, but I do
know that add-on injection doesn't make a 200HP engine out of a 180HP one.
Mostly the add-on FI buys you better efficiency, not necessarily much (any?)
more HP. I don't know a whole lot more than that myself but that may have
been one of the points he was looking for.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
--- George McNutt wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know if there are any detrimental effects if
> Pro-seal or similiar
> type material is used to attach and seal the canopy
> to the canopy frame.
>
> On the right front corner my sliding canopy requires
> 1/4 inch shims to
> match the windshield. I would like to reinforce the
> rivets by running a
> bead of Pro-seal between the canopy and frame. Will
> use syringe to avoid
> mess.
>
> Comments appreciated.
>
> George McNutt
> Langley B.C.
>
> See our airport at http://www.langleyairport.bc.ca
>
> 6A-canopy
George:
Proseal (and pop-rivets) is all I used to attach my
fiberglass frame around the windshield of my Slider.
Been flying 2 + years and 470+ hours.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
> George, a product that I used on my RV-3 canopy and is used exclusively
>on by Pitts and Christian Eagles canopies is a 3M product called Scotch-Weld
>2216B/A. Great stuff!! I would image
>that another 3M product, DP-190, would work as well. Spruce sells it.
> Chuck Brietigam----RV-3's forever!!!
>
I also have used 3M 2216/DP190 extensively on my Kitfox and the RV8. I've
used it to bond a number of aluminum pieces together as well and other
dissimiliar materials. It is an excellant adhesive that machines well and
remains flexible. As near as I can tell 2216 and DP190 are the same. I
use the DP190 two part kits in an applicator sold by R.S. Hughes (they have
a website and are nationwide).
Mike Robbins
RV-8Q 80591 floors
Issaquah, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A QB Aileron / Wing Mounting |
Like you I spent hours carefully making the templates from the drawings
provided, only to find that they were not even close to the shape of my
quickbuild wings. To fit the ailerons on my -8, I followed George's method
of using a small bent piece of .032 Al to pin the control mechanism in the
neutral position and followed that up by test fitting the templates as best
I could. Perhaps you could do something similar. Once the flaps were in
place it all lined up pretty well.
Phil Smith, 80691
fiddling around with the flap motor.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack and/or Kate <jgh(at)iavbbs.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 4:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6A QB Aileron / Wing Mounting
>
> After carefully making the wood wing templates recommended for hanging
> the ailerons, it appears Van's paper template is about 1" shorter than it
> should be. If you have encountered the same situation, how did you
> remedy it?
>
> Any recommendations concerning the size and type of a rotary file
> appropriate for enlarging the hole the aileron pushrod passes through?
> Source?
>
> Jack H.
> jgh(at)iavbbs.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Not intending to in any way detract from Bart's fine engines, I
> think a
> couple of points should be made clear to those considering their
> engine
> choice.
>
> First, the engine from Bart's is not an IO-360, it is an O-360 with
> fuel
> injection. There are some pretty big differences such as a counter
> balanced
> crank, oil spray on the piston skirts and others, so if you compare
> the
> Barts engine to a Lycoming IO-360, it is a bit apple and oranges.
>
Actually.......That depends on which IO-360 you are talking about.
A lot of people are confused by the fact that Lycoming has produced two
quite different engines that were both referred to as IO-360's and then
there have been many different variations of these two.
One of the engines is quite different...angled valve cylinders, oil
cooling on pistons, entirely different style induction system, etc. It
does not have crankshaft counter weights on all models. This engine is
rated at 200 HP.
The other IO-360 is based on the tried and true parallel valve O-360.
It is basically a standard O-360 with fuel injection added. Some of
these engines also have counterweights but not all of them (you need to
reference the model suffix, I think if it has a 6 in the forth digit
position then you know it has counter weights).
So Bart actually does build up an IO-360 that is the same as a factory
supplied model, but it is a parallel valve engine which is only rated at
180 HP.
BTW, I know that he does also build angle valve 200 HP engines for
customers.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> Anyone know if there are any detrimental effects if Pro-seal or
> similiar
> type material is used to attach and seal the canopy to the canopy
> frame.
>
There has never been a problem with proseal on the canopys.
As for similiar...I guess that depends on what the similiar is.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flaps once more |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> If you have an RV4 or are building one did you have to cut a notch
> in
> the side of the fuselage to get clearance for the rod end bolt that
> lifts the flap?
> Thanks, Earl
>
Yes.
This is necessary on the RV-4, RV-6 and RV-6A
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A QB Aileron / Wing Mounting |
Jack and/or Kate wrote:
>
> After carefully making the wood wing templates recommended for hanging
> the ailerons, it appears Van's paper template is about 1" shorter than it
> should be. If you have encountered the same situation, how did you
> remedy it?
On my slow build 6A the template was drawn inside the lid on the wing crate.
After cutting it out I found that it was a horrible fit for my wings. So, on
to plan B. I assumed (I know, bad idea) that the tooling holes in the wing
ribs and aileron ribs where on the cord line. I used these holes to line up
the ailerons on the cord line at the tip of the wing. I also took Van's
dimensions as gospel on the mounting of the aileron hinge brackets to the
wing, and aileron. Once the tip was in bracket was nailed down, I moved on to
the center bracket and made the hinge point exactly the dimensions from the
spar as the tips hinge point. This all agreed with the dimensions on the
plans. Flaps where line up with the ailerons after pinning the ailerons in
neutral via a hole and pin in the bellcrank.
>
>
> Any recommendations concerning the size and type of a rotary file
> appropriate for enlarging the hole the aileron pushrod passes through?
> Source?
I used a 1/2" diameter carbide end mill mounted in my die grinder. Made quick
work of the hole once I figured by trial and error where it should be.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
George McNutt wrote:
>
> Anyone know if there are any detrimental effects if Pro-seal or similiar
> type material is used to attach and seal the canopy to the canopy frame.
>
> On the right front corner my sliding canopy requires 1/4 inch shims to
> match the windshield. I would like to reinforce the rivets by running a
> bead of Pro-seal between the canopy and frame. Will use syringe to avoid
> mess.
>
I used proseal to bond my aluminum windscreen fairing to the windscreen, or
maybe I bonded the windscreen to the fairing. Anyway ProSeal works great on
plexi.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
In a message dated 12/16/99 2:05:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
smcdaniels(at)juno.com writes:
> Actually.......That depends on which IO-360 you are talking about.
> A lot of people are confused by the fact that Lycoming has produced two
> quite different engines that were both referred to as IO-360's and then
> there have been many different variations of these two.
> One of the engines is quite different...angled valve cylinders, oil
> cooling on pistons, entirely different style induction system, etc. It
> does not have crankshaft counter weights on all models. This engine is
> rated at 200 HP.
>
> The other IO-360 is based on the tried and true parallel valve O-360.
> It is basically a standard O-360 with fuel injection added. Some of
> these engines also have counterweights but not all of them (you need to
> reference the model suffix, I think if it has a 6 in the forth digit
> position then you know it has counter weights).
> So Bart actually does build up an IO-360 that is the same as a factory
> supplied model, but it is a parallel valve engine which is only rated at
> 180 HP.
> BTW, I know that he does also build angle valve 200 HP engines for
> customers.
The engine I've been discussing with Bart is an angle-valve, 200HP IO-360,
with the non-counterweighted crank. The engine is an A1A, which he said
differs from the A1B6 principally with regard to the 'missing'
counterweights. True?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
I & others have used Poly-Fiber filler (epoxy) 2 part light weight blue stuff
as a filler
in the canopy & as a radius fillet/filler on the skirt-to-plexi junction. Great
stuff & no
harm to the plexi.
smcdaniels(at)juno.com on 12/16/99 01:20:02 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy and Pro-Seal
>
> Anyone know if there are any detrimental effects if Pro-seal or
> similiar
> type material is used to attach and seal the canopy to the canopy
> frame.
>
There has never been a problem with proseal on the canopys.
As for similiar...I guess that depends on what the similiar is.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flaps once more |
Yes, one of the undocumented items...Also another rv-4 builder in my hanger
needed to
undrill his hinge & relocate 1/8 inch or so to get the allignment he needed. It
only took
10 minutes & a new piece of hinge..It was the only solution to the left /right
issue he had.
I know of other RV's that needed this solution too.
smcdaniels(at)juno.com on 12/16/99 01:21:40 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: flaps once more
>
> If you have an RV4 or are building one did you have to cut a notch
> in
> the side of the fuselage to get clearance for the rod end bolt that
> lifts the flap?
> Thanks, Earl
>
Yes.
This is necessary on the RV-4, RV-6 and RV-6A
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
The IO-360-A1A does not have counterweights. If the suffix starts "A" or
"C" you have a angle valved engine ex. IO-360-C1C.
C.H.
----------
> From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Choice....
> Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 7:39 AM
>
>
> In a message dated 12/16/99 2:05:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> smcdaniels(at)juno.com writes:
>
> > Actually.......That depends on which IO-360 you are talking about.
> > A lot of people are confused by the fact that Lycoming has produced
two
> > quite different engines that were both referred to as IO-360's and
then
> > there have been many different variations of these two.
> > One of the engines is quite different...angled valve cylinders, oil
> > cooling on pistons, entirely different style induction system, etc. It
> > does not have crankshaft counter weights on all models. This engine
is
> > rated at 200 HP.
> >
> > The other IO-360 is based on the tried and true parallel valve O-360.
> > It is basically a standard O-360 with fuel injection added. Some of
> > these engines also have counterweights but not all of them (you need
to
> > reference the model suffix, I think if it has a 6 in the forth digit
> > position then you know it has counter weights).
> > So Bart actually does build up an IO-360 that is the same as a factory
> > supplied model, but it is a parallel valve engine which is only rated
at
> > 180 HP.
> > BTW, I know that he does also build angle valve 200 HP engines for
> > customers.
>
> The engine I've been discussing with Bart is an angle-valve, 200HP
IO-360,
> with the non-counterweighted crank. The engine is an A1A, which he said
> differs from the A1B6 principally with regard to the 'missing'
> counterweights. True?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
guys, don't forget the counterweights are there because of the harmonic loads
imposed by the propeller/hub combo. When using a experimental engine without
the counterweights & using a c/s prop you are exxxxxperimenting with a
crank/prop
combo that possibly has no track record.. I for one will be selecting a engine
with
the proper dash numbers that matches up with a c/s prop that has amassed
thousands
of hours......this selection is a important issue
Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 12/16/99 08:39:33 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Choice....
In a message dated 12/16/99 2:05:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
smcdaniels(at)juno.com writes:
> Actually.......That depends on which IO-360 you are talking about.
> A lot of people are confused by the fact that Lycoming has produced two
> quite different engines that were both referred to as IO-360's and then
> there have been many different variations of these two.
> One of the engines is quite different...angled valve cylinders, oil
> cooling on pistons, entirely different style induction system, etc. It
> does not have crankshaft counter weights on all models. This engine is
> rated at 200 HP.
>
> The other IO-360 is based on the tried and true parallel valve O-360.
> It is basically a standard O-360 with fuel injection added. Some of
> these engines also have counterweights but not all of them (you need to
> reference the model suffix, I think if it has a 6 in the forth digit
> position then you know it has counter weights).
> So Bart actually does build up an IO-360 that is the same as a factory
> supplied model, but it is a parallel valve engine which is only rated at
> 180 HP.
> BTW, I know that he does also build angle valve 200 HP engines for
> customers.
The engine I've been discussing with Bart is an angle-valve, 200HP IO-360,
with the non-counterweighted crank. The engine is an A1A, which he said
differs from the A1B6 principally with regard to the 'missing'
counterweights. True?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List - Cost of painting an RV4 |
This sounds very hi.....there is no striping here so I would expect around 3000
or so...see what others are posting....cheers
wayneb(at)oakweb.com on 12/15/99 08:13:57 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List - Cost of painting an RV4
I just got price of $4300 plus ~ $500 for paint (don't remember brand/type)
2 colors I don't know if this is good price or not, maybe others will respond.
Wayne RV4 wing fairings.
JHeadric(at)aol.com wrote:
> will someone please tell me how much to pay for an Imron paint job on an RV4?
> I'm sure it will be a lot, but it is now unpainted and has been flying for a
> year.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List - Cost of painting an RV4 |
>
>JHeadric(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> > will someone please tell me how much to pay for an Imron paint job on an
>RV4?
> > I'm sure it will be a lot, but it is now unpainted and has been flying
>for a
> > year.
I received a quote of $3K to do my RV8 with Jet Glo at Avsource One in
Missouri. I plan to take it there next spring or summer after the test
period is flown off. They have experience with RV's, a couple of -4's I
think.
http://www.avsource1.com
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
final tasks before flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List - Cost of painting an RV4 |
With Painting you should know that the prep work accounts for 90% of the
labor cost. The closer your plane is to paintable conidtion the cheaper the
painting. I am doing all the prep work on my rocket and I will spend about
500 dollars plus the cost of the paint. But then again I am having it
painted in an auto body shop as I am painting sections as they are finished.
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
With the question of paint cost, I'd like to put in my 2 cents worth. I just
finished painting my RV-6 with PPG Concept paint. Base color: Yellow,
vertical tail feathers & fuselage stripe: candy blue, fuselage stripe:
black. Bought 1.5 gal. yellow & 1 pint each blue & black. Fuselage was
primed with AZKO epoxy green primer before parts were riveted. Wetsanded
the complete airframe with 400 grit before painting. Made a paint booth in
the garage with clear 6 mil visqueen & installed (4) 8 ft two bulb & (4) 4
ft two bulb flourscent lights and used a blower with filter for supply air.
There were (4) AC filters for exhaust. Used a conventional Devilbiss spray
gun with two sets of coalescing air filter/water separators. Sprayed on one
medium coat & one heavy coat, all surfaces. Results good but a little shade
of darkness stripes from primer slightly visible on parts of wings in bright
sunlight.
paint cost $450 including reducer & hardener, used about 1.1 gal yellow, 0.5
pint blue & little black.
Lights cost about $600 and plastic cost $70 for 100 x 20 ft roll. Lights &
unused plastic can be used for another booth. I'll sell at 2/3 my cost.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 final assembly at MLB
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: [Fwd: Wanted RV-4] |
Hello Listers:
Happy Holidays!
I have a potential customer who asked me to submit the following. Any leads
appreciated!
Wanted: RV-4
CASH BUYER looking for an RV-4 he can ready for flight to SnF.
1st choice is a completed (or near completed) bird with no avionics or
engine.
2nd choice is a recent vintage flying bird.
3rd choice is a completed fuselage w/finish kit..
PLEASE REPLY OFF LINE
Mark Frederick
Check Six
mlfred(at)aol.com
(206.109.32.50)
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:56:48 -0600
From: "R.E. BUTCHER" <sirs(at)neosoft.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Wanted RV-4]
Thanks for your help and understanding.
Ernie
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 17:47:29 -0600
From: "R.E. BUTCHER" <sirs(at)neosoft.com>
Subject: Wanted RV-4
Wanted: RV-4
CASH BUYER looking for an RV-4 he can ready for flight to SnF.
1st choice is a completed (or near completed) bird with no aviaonics or
engine.
2nd choice is a recent vintage flying bird.
3rd choice is a completed fuselage w/finish kit..
PLEASE REPLY OFF LINE
Mark Frederick
Check Six
mlfred(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hamilton, Thom" <Thom.Hamilton(at)usa.xerox.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling round holes |
Welcome to the great learning experience we call "Building an RV". While
not the ultimate expert on round holes, I can offer some simple guidelines.
1. The roundest holes, i.e. for very important bolts, bushings, etc. are
made not with a drill bit but with a reamer. You drill nearly the right
size and ream to the exact size with the proper size reamer (available from
Avery's). Not applicable to your current situation but important to
remember when you get to those critical holes later.
2. Sharp, fresh drill bits(Also available from Avery's) do matter. Don't
be stingy with them.
3. The faster you spin the bit, and the less pressure you put on it, the
rounder your hole will be in Aluminum. I have found that steel isn't so
critical, but on Aluminum go slow and let the speedily spinning bit work
it's way through.
4. If you drill into Aluminum sheet with nothing behind it, you'll get a
vaguely triangular hole. Try to put a piece of wood, or even a piece of
scrap aluminum behind the sheet you are drilling through. This helps
immensely. Really. You don't want to drill through unsupported thin
Aluminum, so make sure it is supported somehow, I usually use a chunk of
scrap wood on loose pieces. Once things are in the jig, they usually are
pretty self supporting.
5. Be careful using the edge of the bit as a reamer. Sometimes it seems
that it doesn't work well at all, other times you will make a nice
egg-shaped hole in a heartbeat.
6. A little Boelube(Again, available from Avery's, sensing a trend?) on the
drill bit tip can help, but usually isn't real important until drilling
thicker pieces. Then it can make a difference.
Above all, PRACTICE!!!
Thom Hamilton
MCSE, CNE, PP-ASEL, etc.
RV-8 Wings: Fluting till it hurts
Baton Rouge, LA 225-753-9339
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schrimmer [mailto:mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 11:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling round holes
I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
Last night, I wanted to do some practice riveting with AN-470-4-4 rivets. I
first drilled a 1/8" hole in some scrap aluminum sheet using a brand new
round enough to accept the rivet was to force the bit against the sides of
the hole and ream it out. Any suggestions?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
In a message dated 12/16/99 10:38:00 AM Eastern Standard Time,
clhuey(at)sprynet.com writes:
> The IO-360-A1A does not have counterweights. If the suffix starts "A" or
> "C" you have a angle valved engine ex. IO-360-C1C.
>
> C.H.
Thanks for the info. I can't remember when I last had so many consecutive
days (or hours) of learning new and useful information than I have since I
started my kit. One more item to file away...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Year 2000 calendar |
If you have a spare space on your workshop wall, I would recommend the
latest Van's Year 2000 Calendar as a good way to fill it. I've just seen a
copy and it looks good.
Last time I looked, there was ordering information for it on their website.
Ed Hicks
Ordering RV-6 QB.
Bristol UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
In a message dated 12/16/99 10:54:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
> guys, don't forget the counterweights are there because of the harmonic
> loads
> imposed by the propeller/hub combo. When using a experimental engine
without
> the counterweights & using a c/s prop you are exxxxxperimenting with a
> crank/prop
> combo that possibly has no track record.. I for one will be selecting a
> engine
> with
> the proper dash numbers that matches up with a c/s prop that has amassed
> thousands
> of hours......this selection is a important issue
Bart mentioned to me that the IO-360-A1A has been used for years in Mooneys
of various types. Obviously with c/s props. I have no personal experience
with Mooneys, so I took him at his word. Comments?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
if you don't know how to make a round hole, please stay away from airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Drilling round holes |
Uni-Bit step drills drill the roundest holes by far. A little pricey but well
worth
the price. Greenlee & UniBit & others make them
Thom.Hamilton(at)usa.xerox.com on 12/16/99 01:16:57 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Drilling round holes
Welcome to the great learning experience we call "Building an RV". While
not the ultimate expert on round holes, I can offer some simple guidelines.
1. The roundest holes, i.e. for very important bolts, bushings, etc. are
made not with a drill bit but with a reamer. You drill nearly the right
size and ream to the exact size with the proper size reamer (available from
Avery's). Not applicable to your current situation but important to
remember when you get to those critical holes later.
2. Sharp, fresh drill bits(Also available from Avery's) do matter. Don't
be stingy with them.
3. The faster you spin the bit, and the less pressure you put on it, the
rounder your hole will be in Aluminum. I have found that steel isn't so
critical, but on Aluminum go slow and let the speedily spinning bit work
it's way through.
4. If you drill into Aluminum sheet with nothing behind it, you'll get a
vaguely triangular hole. Try to put a piece of wood, or even a piece of
scrap aluminum behind the sheet you are drilling through. This helps
immensely. Really. You don't want to drill through unsupported thin
Aluminum, so make sure it is supported somehow, I usually use a chunk of
scrap wood on loose pieces. Once things are in the jig, they usually are
pretty self supporting.
5. Be careful using the edge of the bit as a reamer. Sometimes it seems
that it doesn't work well at all, other times you will make a nice
egg-shaped hole in a heartbeat.
6. A little Boelube(Again, available from Avery's, sensing a trend?) on the
drill bit tip can help, but usually isn't real important until drilling
thicker pieces. Then it can make a difference.
Above all, PRACTICE!!!
Thom Hamilton
MCSE, CNE, PP-ASEL, etc.
RV-8 Wings: Fluting till it hurts
Baton Rouge, LA 225-753-9339
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schrimmer [mailto:mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 11:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling round holes
I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
Last night, I wanted to do some practice riveting with AN-470-4-4 rivets. I
first drilled a 1/8" hole in some scrap aluminum sheet using a brand new
round enough to accept the rivet was to force the bit against the sides of
the hole and ream it out. Any suggestions?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
Mark Schrimmer wrote:
> I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
> serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
What other people have said, plus... make sure that your bit is
perpendicular to the work.
It sounds very strange that you need to open a #30 hole out more to fit
a -4 rivet into it. Presumably you are allowing the bit to go right
through the metal (say 1/4" or so)?
Also, just how out-of-round are your holes? Remember that driving the
rivet will expand it to fit the available space, even if the hole isn't
exactly round.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RST audio panel kit |
For anyone who has built one of these, how much work is it? I realize
that it is like a "heathkit", but are the instructions unambiguous,
etc.?
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
I just got off the phone with Aaron at Lycoming about this issue and he
said that if my IO-360-C1C has the tranfer tube inside the hollow crank
then I'm good to go with a C/S prop. Doesn't have to have the counter
weights. When you think about it, why would they make a hollowed out
non-counter weighted crank for an IO-360 if it can't be used with a C/S
prop? The counter weighted cranks were developed for an application and
neither Aaron nore I can recall exactly what that was at this time. AL
>
>In a message dated 12/16/99 10:54:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
>
>> guys, don't forget the counterweights are there because of the harmonic
>> loads
>> imposed by the propeller/hub combo. When using a experimental engine
>without
>> the counterweights & using a c/s prop you are exxxxxperimenting with a
>> crank/prop
>> combo that possibly has no track record.. I for one will be selecting a
>> engine
>> with
>> the proper dash numbers that matches up with a c/s prop that has amassed
>> thousands
>> of hours......this selection is a important issue
>
>Bart mentioned to me that the IO-360-A1A has been used for years in Mooneys
>of various types. Obviously with c/s props. I have no personal experience
>with Mooneys, so I took him at his word. Comments?
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>working on the horiz. stab. and still setting up the shop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
Is there a possibilty that members who forget that we all subscribe to this
list, and do so to assist each other, and think that it is funny to reply to
somebody else's lack of knowledge with rude language be removed or suspended
?
how do other listers think about this ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
>
>In a message dated 12/16/99 10:54:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
>
>> guys, don't forget the counterweights are there because of the harmonic
>> loads
>> imposed by the propeller/hub combo. When using a experimental engine
>without
>> the counterweights & using a c/s prop you are exxxxxperimenting with a
>> crank/prop
>> combo that possibly has no track record.. I for one will be selecting a
>> engine
>> with
>> the proper dash numbers that matches up with a c/s prop that has amassed
>> thousands
>> of hours......this selection is a important issue
>
>Bart mentioned to me that the IO-360-A1A has been used for years in Mooneys
>of various types. Obviously with c/s props. I have no personal experience
>with Mooneys, so I took him at his word. Comments?
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
All you need to do is check the FAA Type Certificate Data Sheet
(TCDS) for the prop you are interested in to make sure that it has
been approved for use on that model engine. I don't believe there is
a regulatory requirement that you use an approved engine/prop
combination, but given the risks, you would be crazy to mix and match
an engine prop combination that is not on the FAA TCDS. Note that
this is generally only an issue with metal props, as the natural
frequency of the vibrations in a wood prop are very different for the
frequencies produced by the engine.
With a metal prop, there is a chance that the prop's natural
frequency matches some frequency put out by the engine, and you can
get dangerously high vibration levels, but the frequency of the
vibrations is high enough so the pilot doesn't perceive it until
something major breaks (prop or crankshaft).
The FAA TCDSs for props are available at:
http://av-info.faa.gov/tc/tcd5prop.htm
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings skinned, getting ready to do fuselage)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
I feel like it is such an obvious point that it doesn't even require
discussion on this list. Also, the gentleman who fealt it necessary to be
such a jerk may find it difficult to get assistance from others when he asks
a question. His life is his punishment...
Bill
>
>
>Is there a possibilty that members who forget that we all subscribe to this
>list, and do so to assist each other, and think that it is funny
>to reply to
>somebody else's lack of knowledge with rude language be removed or
>suspended
>?
>
>how do other listers think about this ?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
I agree. There really is no such thing as a "dumb" question. If that's the case,
I have an I.Q. of 1.
Keep on building!!!
Dave Funk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RST audio panel kit |
Chris: I have built two of the RST audio panels, they are not difficult if
you don't get carried away using a soldering iron, use a small iron, the kit
contains a lot of info on how to solder. Mine usually takes about 24 hours.
The only thing I had concern about was the pigtail leads are a little short.
After you complete the panel you send it back for calibration. This cost
about $40.00.
I really like the way they work, and they are really reliable. My two cents
worth only.
Harvey Sigmon RV6-AQB - Installing Fuselage skin.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 2:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: RST audio panel kit
>
> For anyone who has built one of these, how much work is it? I realize
> that it is like a "heathkit", but are the instructions unambiguous,
> etc.?
>
> Chris Browne
> -6A finish
> Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
<< Is there a possibilty that members who forget that we all subscribe to this
list, and do so to assist each other, and think that it is funny to reply to
somebody else's lack of knowledge with rude language be removed or suspended
?
how do other listers think about this ? >>
AMEN, Very well put and to the point!!!! I vote for three strikes your out
or off in this case. I do want to say to all the people who have e-mailed me
in reponse to receiving their caps if for some reason I missed on returning
your e-mail, Thanks for the business. I'm real happy everbody is happy with
the results.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
You know Jim called it the "dark angel" during the air race at osh this
year.
Gert
James Freeman wrote:
>
>
> ----------
> >From: Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com>
> >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit
> >Date: Wed, Dec 15, 1999, 4:48 PM
> >
>
> > Its all electronic and requires no vacuum system. Also has a slave compass
> > system. It is what is going into my Rocket kit when it arrives in June.
> >
> > http://www.archangel.com/efis.htm
> >
> > The base web site address has all the details on other products they have
> > as well as pricing.
> >
> > www.archangel.com
> >
> > Scot
> WARNING: unsubstantiated opinion and hearsay follows!
>
> I have been interested in the glass cockpits and following them for some
> time. IIRC the Archangel panel was in Jim Rahm's (?sp) beautiful Lancair
> IV-P that was featured in Sport Aviation a while back. Rumor has it that he
> got so fed up with poor reliability and support that he yanked the system
> after OSH this year.
>
> You might want to do a deja.news search in rec.aviation.homebuilt. The
> glass panel from sierra flight systems (in the yeller pages) looks like it
> is more carefully thought out (IMHO) and is getting very good reviews.
>
> I have no direct experience with either system.
>
> James Freeman
> RV-8 QB fuse sloooooowly......
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
>
>I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
>serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
>Mark Schrimmer
>RV-9A tail
Mark,
You've already received some good advice. I can't add much but---were you
trying to insert AD4-4 round head rivets in the #40 hole? In my kit and in
"Gillette Charlie's" kit, I found these rivets to be a tad wider in
diameter than 4-5's, 6's, etc. This was in older kits, things may have
changed, now. Mike the rivets and see.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "N255GH" <n255gh(at)frontiernet.net> |
After 2 1/2 years of work N255GH has received it's Airworthiness
Certificate !!! It's hard to believe. Hope to start the test flights
soon.
This is a rv6a with a chevy 4.3L. Total weight 1227.
N255GH complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVE GEHLE <GARBROCO(at)garbro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: [Fwd: Wanted RV-4] |
MARK,
I HAVE AN RV-4, SN 637, FLYING SINCE 1991. 385 HOURS TOTAL TIME AIRFRAME, 310
HRS TT SINCE COMPLETE CUSTOM OVERHAUL ON 160 HP O-320 1993, INCLUDING NEW
LYCOMING CAMSHAFT, NEW SLICK MAGNETOS. FACTORY REMAN CARBURETOR 1998. AYMAR
DEMUTH PROP, 160 KT CRUISE. NEW (1999) KING KLN-35A GPS, NARCO ESCORT 2 1 1/2
NAV COM, KING KT-76A TRANSPONDER W/ ENCODER, INTERCOM, STROBES, NAV LIGHTS.
AIR TECH POLYURETHANE PAINT, HOOKER HARNESSES. ELECTRONIC INTERNATIONAL FOUR
POSITION EGT AND CHT. ASKING $43,500. BUILDING RV-6 SINCE MY WIFE IS TIRED OF
LOOKING AT THE BACK OF MY HEAD. CALL ME DAYS 501-362-8171, NIGHTS 501-362-6742
OR EMAIL AT GARBROCO(at)GARBRO.COM
DAVE GEHLE
HEBER SPRINGS, ARKANSAS
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello Listers:
>
> Happy Holidays!
>
> I have a potential customer who asked me to submit the following. Any leads
> appreciated!
>
> Wanted: RV-4
> CASH BUYER looking for an RV-4 he can ready for flight to SnF.
> 1st choice is a completed (or near completed) bird with no avionics or
> engine.
> 2nd choice is a recent vintage flying bird.
> 3rd choice is a completed fuselage w/finish kit..
>
> PLEASE REPLY OFF LINE
>
> Mark Frederick
> Check Six
> mlfred(at)aol.com
>
> (206.109.32.50)
> Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:56:48 -0600
> From: "R.E. BUTCHER" <sirs(at)neosoft.com>
> To: "Mark 'Rocket Man' Frederick"
> Subject: [Fwd: Wanted RV-4]
>
> Thanks for your help and understanding.
> Ernie
>
> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 17:47:29 -0600
> From: "R.E. BUTCHER" <sirs(at)neosoft.com>
> To: Bruce Flyin' Tiger Bohannon
> Subject: Wanted RV-4
>
> Wanted: RV-4
> CASH BUYER looking for an RV-4 he can ready for flight to SnF.
> 1st choice is a completed (or near completed) bird with no aviaonics or
> engine.
> 2nd choice is a recent vintage flying bird.
> 3rd choice is a completed fuselage w/finish kit..
>
> PLEASE REPLY OFF LINE
>
> Mark Frederick
> Check Six
> mlfred(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Field <jfield(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
I found early on that I got better results using 118 degree split point
bits instead
of the more common 135 degree bit.
Another technique that many builders practice,especially with 1/8th
rivets,is to drill your holes undersize
and drill to the finished size when you've got things just right.
I'm sure many of our the greatest aviators would have struggled to put one
of these together.
The ability to drill round holes has nothing to do with whether one shuld
be around airplanes.
John Field
RV-4
River Falls WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
"cecil hatfield"
| Subject: | Young and Stupid |
There was a time when you could walk out to the line of a/c parked and tied
and nobody stopped you or put a fence up to contain you. Life was pretty
simple and we trusted one another..
Out on our line stood a row of Mustangs and I climbed inside and felt the
aura of combat.
Also on the line was a Cornell of a friend of mine..I guess you would call
it a PT22 or something...I took my girlfriend aboard, hit the starter and
the engine gave out a mighty roar..all the while tied down...I cycled the
throttle and felt just like "Smilin' Jack" himself...
Not sure if it scored me any points that night or not.....but what a
blast..revving the engine and feeling the wind trying to tear your hair
off....couldn't fly it without asking of course, and when I did, was
embarrassed when asked..."do you know where the flap lever is"...hell
no...don't use nor need 'em...so don't press me for incidentals.....
I was flying with my buddy in a 150...big deal...when, apart from the
mindless repartee we threw back and forth....I hear somebody calling in
.."1300 ft. over the Fraser bridge" and I shove the nose down...hell, that's
just where we are....grin all around and decide to land after hearing that
ceiling back at base is now 800' and heavy rain...good time to go home..
Radio, of course is T*** up, and so I land at a big international the same
way I see a big Herc waiting to depart....
Controller later calls and asks me to report to tower and reams me for
landing wrong way and not having a working radio....I'm duly respectful, but
think later that I would rather be on the ground than dropping through the
murk asking the tower if they could put down their coffee and give me a
green somewhere...
That was long ago and they were kindly to us young idiots.....my passenger
never flew again, but later became my brother-in-law so I guess it is
equal...
Our instructors were ex air-force and stern stuff...they would hit you with
a rolled newspaper if you were sloppy...but I loved them all...
They had been through air combat where it counted and clobbering you was not
taken personally..
They still had hard times when they had to write a mother in Holland (and
get it translated) about how their 18 year old ray of sunshine killed
himself teaching himself acro...sterling guys all....
I wonder what became of some of these warriors and I am grateful to remember
just
how tolerant they were and how their voices ring, even now, with lessons on
how to get out of that canyon, or save that forced landing...pick a
spot...never goes away..
It must have worked because that was eons ago and I am still
flying..learning, and loving..this, when it took more than 50% of my
earnings to fly...well worth the payback..
Then along comes a guy named Van. A man with a vision and a design and he
gives us a mount that has no equal, and we are all hot-rodders in our chosen
realm...and what a lovely machine..just the looking at it seems a tribute to
a builders stubbornness and discipline to finish it and fly it...it is truly
an endorsement to determination...
On my last flight, it was darn cold out, but warm inside.
Radio working so so as usual..the ceiling was about 1500, but visibility a
good 40 miles.
I was flying under the blackest overcast, like the underside of a table
top...solid above..and the clouds were rolling and boiling past in a strong
Westerly...
Landmarks are very good and I'm following the coastline where the Orcas play
and tower calls me for a straight in...wonderful...
When you have the airfield in sight and the elements are telling you that
you better call it a day very soon...isn't it a feeling..hard to describe,
that we are trading the combat with the weather gods for a chance to do it
all again another time ???
I land with a very strong wind straight down the jetstrip and come to a halt
almost right away...damn...best landing in a long time.....
Wind is so strong that Customs guy invites me in right away for
coffee...wow...
Don't I look like Yeager himself with the canopy back...arm outside, and
prop blasting the airplane around in a pirouette to park just so..???
Can you get a boost to your ego any better than this ??
An airplane that is a rarity...that flying schools would not let their
pupils cast a sideways glance at because it is ..what...AVANT GARDE ???
Oh to drink from this cup of aerial intoxication... I am hooked, I
fear....RVs forever....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Mark,
I've deleted your email address.
Please email me off-line, with your address.
Thanks,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denton Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron alignment |
Another way that works is a couple pieces of door jam stop (1-1/2 X 3/8")
about 8' long, clamped on both ends, cord wise around the wing and aileron.
It lines them nicely.
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6, Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip up canopy handle |
>
>How do the rest of you lift your RV-6 tip up canopies?
Stephen,
I recessed mine similar to most automotive car handle assemblies.
I can lift up with my index and second fingers and then grab the back,
middle of the canopy with my right hand to complete the opening.
I used a piece of 3/8" aluminum flat bar about 2 1/2 "long and 1 1/2" wide
and a piece 2 1/2 " x 3/8 " wide. The finger hold was filed in the larger
piece centered so that the two fingers would fit and tapered from the 3/8 "
to 1/16 " A hole was cut in the canopy skirt and filed to match the finger
hold piece. The 2 1/2 x 3/8 piece was mounted directly above to cover the
taper and keep air and wind out. I think it looks good and has no drag. I
found this process hard to explain so hope you can figure out what I am
trying to say.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. (digging out of our first snowfall, one foot yesterday,
melting today, slush, ugh!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RST audio panel kit |
Chris Browne wrote:
>
>
> For anyone who has built one of these, how much work is it? I realize
> that it is like a "heathkit", but are the instructions unambiguous,
> etc.?
I built one in about 20 hours. Instructions are *excellent*.
Check out http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny5b.htm
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
Sorry Gang, I gotta jump in here.......this kind of response has no place in
this forum. The question was asked by a BEGINNER........YOU sir, were there
once one too.
No Regards to the poster.
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
second main spar
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling round holes
>
>
>if you don't know how to make a round hole, please stay away from
airplanes.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
A tool and die maker once told me that the hardest machining job to do
well was
drilling holes.
To get a precision hole, one must first drill the hole about 0.015"
undersize and then
use the proper reamer to finish the hole.
This precision is not necessary for our rivets. Once the rivet is set,
the hole is
completely filled even if the hole is oval in shape.
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (402TC reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
Lister's,
I am installing the baffles in my 8A - IO360 200hp angle valve Lycoming.
One of the baffle screw holes forward left case by the starter is stripped
out about 1/2 down the hole & the screw will not thread to the bottom.
What is the best way to fix?
Can I use a tap to clean up the threads. If this doesn't work what is the
next step? Could I use a threaded insert, or drill & tap to the next larger
size bolt AN4.
I don't want to make it worse, what is my best course of action.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Butcher <rbutch(at)inreach.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RST audio panel kit |
Chris...
One of the folks I work with just put one in his 7AC Champ. It was pretty
easy to put together... an evening or two, and works quite well in his
plane. I'll get you his e-mail address if you'd like to contact him
direct.
Ron Butcher
Turlock, Calif
Chris Browne wrote:
>
> For anyone who has built one of these, how much work is it? I realize
> that it is like a "heathkit", but are the instructions unambiguous,
> etc.?
>
> Chris Browne
> -6A finish
> Atlanta
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Tap it. I had the same problem, and a 1/4-20 Tap fixed the threads no
problem.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 9:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Baffles
>
> Lister's,
>
> I am installing the baffles in my 8A - IO360 200hp angle valve Lycoming.
>
> One of the baffle screw holes forward left case by the starter is stripped
> out about 1/2 down the hole & the screw will not thread to the bottom.
>
> What is the best way to fix?
>
> Can I use a tap to clean up the threads. If this doesn't work what is the
> next step? Could I use a threaded insert, or drill & tap to the next
larger
> size bolt AN4.
>
> I don't want to make it worse, what is my best course of action.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Drilling round holes
>I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
>serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
Mark: A local drill manufacturer once advised me that the natural tendency
of a twist drill is to create a trilobal hole, that is, a hole that is out
of round in three lobes. Consequently to get a truly round hole (or nearly
so anyway) one drills undersize and reams to final size. Others have
mentioned factors that modify this trilobal behavior to some degree but the
tendency is still there. For rivet holes it matters not because the rivet
is deformed to fit the hole. For important bolt holes, finish with a
reamer. Using a 1/8" drill for "4" rivet will sometimes be undersize
because rivets are not all the same. The #30 drill is usually regarded as
the clearance size for 1/8" rivets. Of course if you are dimpling the hole
the final dimpled hole will be considerably oversize from the stretching
when the dimple is formed. Don't worry about it for riveting unless the
fastener is highly stressed (like spar caps maybe). It isn't even crucial
for most bolt applications although again, spar splice bolt holes need
special attention, both to hole quality and clearance.
Gordon Comfort
N3633GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scat Tube Routing to Heat Muff. |
Listers,
I want to route my fresh air to the heat muffs (on both sides) from
immediately in front of the left and right front cylinders (#1 and #2)(RV6A
with O-360 A2A). The 2" scat tube will fit under the cylinders and above the
intake tubes alright to take a nice direct path back to the heat muffs. My
question is... will that routing still allow adequate airflow down through
the cylinders and heads??? It appears that it may allow enough room for air
exiting the bottom of the cylinder baffles but I haven't seen any RVs using
that scat routing so far in my limited inquiries and RV web page searches.
Anybody know if this routing is workable? Is their a better way?
I know that I could take fresh air from the aft end of the baffles a
little easier but I'd prefer to take it from up front if I can.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.
Regards,
Dale Wotring
RV6A (working on firewall forward issues and panel dreamin.)
________________________________________________________________________________
Cant wait to hear the spec on the flight testing with the engine, keep good
records, make lots of notes, keep us informed. Congradulations. N468TC
painted and doing the "SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
Hi Mark,
Welcome to the world of RV building, it's good to have you. As others have
said, you've received a lot of good advise. A couple of other things you might
want to take a look at & file away somewhere for the long term:
1. Not all drill bits are straight, even new ones. Sometimes the drill bit
itself will wobble, all other conditions being perfect.
2. Make sure the drill bit is inserted in the chuck straight. Sounds silly,
but it happens, especially when you get in a hurry &/or if you're distracted by
something else.
3. You could have a perfectly straight running drill motor & your chuck
could be bad. If you really want to check how straight your drill motor &
chuck are running, try getting a 1/4" master drill blank & checking your drill
motor for runout.
4. Check the jaws in your chuck to make sure they're not worn & will hold a
drill bit of the size you're using. If you've been using much larger household
type drill bits for a while in the chuck, the edges of the 3 yaws could be worn
& they might not hold the smaller drill bits as well.
5. Deburr the holes you drill. Sometimes a burr will stick up just enough
to catch a rivet & make it stick.
6. Turn the chuck a couple of times by hand on the aluminum before you start
drilling. This will "seat" the drill bit on the aluminum & it won't wander
around on you.
I used to know the tolerances for some of these drill motors & the chucks when
new. I remember being really surprised that a brand new tool was allowed to
have tolerances I considered very high, especially when working on aircraft.
However, you can also stop & remember that there are aircraft 50 years "new"
still flying with the same rivets, & think about the advances in technology
during that time. It seems to me, and just me, that the thoughtfullness & care
you're showing now will serve you just fine.
Blue Skies!
Mark Schrimmer wrote:
>
> I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
> serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>
> I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm
> totally
> serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
>
> Last night, I wanted to do some practice riveting with AN-470-4-4
> rivets. I
> first drilled a 1/8" hole in some scrap aluminum sheet using a brand
> new
> 135 Cobalt split point bit from Avery. The hole was not anywhere
> near
> round. I then opened up the hole using a brand new #30 bit from
> Avery but
> again, the hole was so out of round I could not get the rivet to
> fit. I
> tried different drill speeds from 620 rpm to 3,000 rpm. I tried
> applying
> very little pressure on the drill and lots of pressure on the drill.
> Each
> time the result was an out of round hole. The only way I could get a
> hole
> round enough to accept the rivet was to force the bit against the
> sides of
> the hole and ream it out. Any suggestions?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A tail
>
Mark,
You have gotten lots of good advice on how to make the best, and most
accurately sized round holes... Unibit, punch, reamer, drill slightly
undersized and then open up to final dimension, etc. This is all very
good advice though none of it is very practical when you need to drill
thousands of holes for riveting.
Since you are building an RV-9 a lot of the drilling you will be doing
will be opening up prepunched pilot holes to final size (but not all of
it).
I have one question to ask that may shed some light on your problem.
You mentioned that you were practicing using some scrap aluminum.
Where did you get this aluminum that you are practicing with?
It is my guess that it may be common hardware store aluminum which is
very soft compared to 2024-T3 and even 6061-T6 (which is softer than
2024) aircraft aluminum.
If you are using common soft aluminum it is like trying to drill holes in
rubber compared to aircraft grades of aluminum, and the results are often
exactly as you describe.
If this is the case, try and get some scrap from one of the FBO's at your
airport or from another RV builder in your area.
I think you will find a big difference.
BTW I concur that you should use 118 deg. split point bits for all of the
drilling that you do on skins and other structure.
Let me know what you think of the RV-9 emp. kit. We are very interested
in getting feed back, and comments.
Also to reiterate what has already been said, don't let one thoughtless
comment prevent you from using this forum to learn. The point you are at
right now, you have a "lot" of learning to do, but we were all there at
one time ourselves.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Year 2000 calendar |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> If you have a spare space on your workshop wall, I would recommend
> the
> latest Van's Year 2000 Calendar as a good way to fill it. I've just
> seen a
> copy and it looks good.
-
I think anyone purchasing one will be more than happy with it.
My opinion or course but I think the cover photo alone is worth the
purchase price (all seven models of RV from the RV-9A on down through the
RV-3 flying together in echelon formtion).
-
>
> Last time I looked, there was ordering information for it on their
> website.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choice.... |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> > Actually.......That depends on which IO-360 you are talking about.
> > A lot of people are confused by the fact that Lycoming has
> produced two
> > quite different engines that were both referred to as IO-360's
> and then
> > there have been many different variations of these two.
> > One of the engines is quite different...angled valve cylinders,
> oil
> > cooling on pistons, entirely different style induction system,
> etc. It
> > does not have crankshaft counter weights on all models. This
> engine is
> > rated at 200 HP.
> >
> > The other IO-360 is based on the tried and true parallel valve
> O-360.
> > It is basically a standard O-360 with fuel injection added. Some
> of
> > these engines also have counterweights but not all of them (you
> need to
> > reference the model suffix, I think if it has a 6 in the forth
> digit
> > position then you know it has counter weights).
> > So Bart actually does build up an IO-360 that is the same as a
> factory
> > supplied model, but it is a parallel valve engine which is only
> rated at
> > 180 HP.
> > BTW, I know that he does also build angle valve 200 HP engines
> for
> > customers.
>
> The engine I've been discussing with Bart is an angle-valve, 200HP
> IO-360,
> with the non-counterweighted crank. The engine is an A1A, which he
> said
> differs from the A1B6 principally with regard to the 'missing'
> counterweights. True?
>
Yes, I think that is true because the "6" in theA1B6 is what designates a
model with the counterweights. The A1A without the "6" would be without
counterweights.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/16/99 8:51:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
steffco1(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< One of the baffle screw holes forward left case by the starter is stripped
out about 1/2 down the hole & the screw will not thread to the bottom.
What is the best way to fix? >>
Get a Helicoil installation kit of the correct size thread (1/4-20 I think)
from your local speed shop or industrial outlet.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scat Tube Routing to Heat Muff. |
In a message dated 12/16/99 9:53:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Gusndale(at)aol.com writes:
<< I know that I could take fresh air from the aft end of the baffles a
little easier but I'd prefer to take it from up front if I can. >>
Why make things more difficult? If you pick it up low on the rear barrel
baffle wrap-around(s) it will already be slightly warm before it goes thru
the muff(s).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
Scott:
For metal vents, check the Chief catalog or contact John Harmon. I haven't
seen the Chief model, but John's look excellent. I've posted an old message
below.
Phil Smith 80691
Hey guys, if you don't want to install the black plastic eyeball vents that
Van's supplies in the Fuselage kit (I heard there were problems with air
leaking through even when closed) there is a more expensive alternative. I
bought 2 of these aluminum eyeball vents from John Harmon. They are of
exceptional quality! If you can afford it, I highly recommend them! Below
is an e-mail that John sent me...
Mounting hole is 2.75 " and 2"scat hose hook up.
Price is $88.00 each.
D&J Harmon C0.
2000 S. Union Ave.
Bakersfield,Ca 93307
John
E-mail address...
Hr2pilot(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRobert569(at)aol.com |
And if taping it doesn't work then I would put a helicoil in. I have the same
engine and when I bought mine it had a helicoil in that exact same hole. Works
great at this point.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
In a message dated Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:49:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Paul Besing"
writes:
>
> Tap it. I had the same problem, and a 1/4-20 Tap fixed the threads no
> problem.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 9:10 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 Baffles
>
>
> >
> > Lister's,
> >
> > I am installing the baffles in my 8A - IO360 200hp angle valve Lycoming.
> >
> > One of the baffle screw holes forward left case by the starter is stripped
> > out about 1/2 down the hole & the screw will not thread to the bottom.
> >
> > What is the best way to fix?
> >
> > Can I use a tap to clean up the threads. If this doesn't work what is the
> > next step? Could I use a threaded insert, or drill & tap to the next
> larger
> > size bolt AN4.
> >
> > I don't want to make it worse, what is my best course of action.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James S. Danda" <jdanda(at)secnetgroup.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A backfire: Follow up |
First, thanks to everyone who replied. Your insights were
very helpful. I've learned more about what my specific
problem is, and I thought others might benifit from this
follow-up.
I miss spoke, technically, when I said backfire. I
learned that backfire specifically means explosion through
the carb or intake. My circumstance appears to be explosion
in the exhaust pipe.
Most listers advice fell into three catagories(I'm sorry
I can't give specifics, I'm at home and my email is at
work, if there is interest I can collate the answers)
-Mags/Timing
-Fuel Mixture
-Valves
One listers suggestion felt 'right' to me:(paraphrase)
The explosion and high fuel flow may be caused by unburnt
gas exploding in the exhaust pipe. If there is no muffler,
the decrease in back pressure will increase the possiblity.
Also, a crack in the exhaust train will allow fresh air
to mix with any fuel.
In the last week, we've flown with the fuel mixture leaned.
This fixed the inflight cruise exhaust 'Popping'. Power
delivery is good. I still get popping while taxiing in
idle, or exactly at 10 mainifold pressure while in the
pattern. I said exactly 10 because above and below it
doesn't pop.
I've ordered new spark plugs and will install them this
weekend. I also noticed that log book stated that the
bendix mags where rebuilt about 100 hours ago. I also
learned that I have an Airflow Performance fuel injection
system. I've ordered a manual an hope to learn more
about its operation. I've run a bottle of injector
cleaner through, and will inspect the exhaust for
air leaks.
Anyway, thanks again for all the advice!
If your flying over the midwest and hear a loud
"YAHOOO!!!", thats me taking off :).
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Was Round Holes/Discourtesy |
Folks,
I know Claudio quite well. English is not his first language; that is
why he does not post very often.
I strongly suspect that his message was simply to have the person learn
how to do "shop tasks" (e.g., drilling round holes) *before* attempting
to build an airplane.
I have always found Claudio to be very helpful; he goes out of his way
to provide assistance. I shared a hangar with Claudio for a while and
got to know him quite well.
For those who do not know him, Claudio is the builder/owner/pilot of the
award winning RV-4, Purple Passion. This is the -4 that flew to the tip
of South America on the way to Oshkosh one year. He encountered 100mph
winds and fierce snowstorms to make the roughly 10,000 mile journey.
If I thought that Claudio was being deliberately insulting, I would not
come to his defense, but that is just not the man. Often, I have seen
his posts be a simple "I know how, call me for details". Again, that is
because of his discomfort with English.
Michael Pilla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry" <larryjenison(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Interior layout |
I'm In the process of redoing the interior layout on my 3. I would like to
change my throttle to a quadrant which would also have the mixture and trim
levers. Being right handed I would like this on the left side, the flap
handle is also on the left. One way would be to shorten the flap lever about
2 inches. Would I have to be a weight lifter to depoly flaps. Also if anyone
has a three lever quadrant, from Van's, could you please give me the
thickness of the three lever?
Thanks Larry Jenison
RV-3 160 h.p 93JP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Benefit of Doubt: Was Round Holes/Discourtesy |
All,
I suggest that Claudio deserves the Benefit of Doubt.
Happy Holidays to Everyone and much progress in 2000!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
>From: "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)mitre.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Was Round Holes/Discourtesy
>Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:08:36 -0500
>
>
>Folks,
>I know Claudio quite well. English is not his first language; that is
>why he does not post very often.
>
>I strongly suspect that his message was simply to have the person learn
>how to do "shop tasks" (e.g., drilling round holes) *before* attempting
>to build an airplane.
>
>I have always found Claudio to be very helpful; he goes out of his way
>to provide assistance. I shared a hangar with Claudio for a while and
>got to know him quite well.
>
>For those who do not know him, Claudio is the builder/owner/pilot of the
>award winning RV-4, Purple Passion. This is the -4 that flew to the tip
>of South America on the way to Oshkosh one year. He encountered 100mph
>winds and fierce snowstorms to make the roughly 10,000 mile journey.
>
>If I thought that Claudio was being deliberately insulting, I would not
>come to his defense, but that is just not the man. Often, I have seen
>his posts be a simple "I know how, call me for details". Again, that is
>because of his discomfort with English.
>
>Michael Pilla
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RST audio panel kit |
We know of 4 planes that have this panel. The kit is easy to put
together and works well. Each of these 4 plane owners are very satisfied
with this product.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Interior layout |
Larry wrote:
>
> I'm In the process of redoing the interior layout on my 3. I would like to
> change my throttle to a quadrant which would also have the mixture and trim
> levers. Being right handed I would like this on the left side, the flap
> handle is also on the left. One way would be to shorten the flap lever about
> 2 inches. Would I have to be a weight lifter to depoly flaps. Also if anyone
> has a three lever quadrant, from Van's, could you please give me the
> thickness of the three lever?
>
> Thanks Larry Jenison
> RV-3 160 h.p 93JP
>
Larry, I built a three lever quadrant which is the width of the 403
bulkhead. I used Van's three lever quadrant and modified it to fit. Things are
extremely tight in this area and getting everything in and out during assembly
takes alittle patience. Transitioning the cables through the 403 bulkhead is
best done with the side skin off. Very tight and a doubler was installed because
of the amount of bulkhead material removed. I still have some pictures I took
during the building process and will forward them to you if you'd like. I still
have your address.
Chuck---RV-3's forever!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Vents was Archangel1 |
>No, I'm afraid to. I recently asked our parts guy what a nice metal vent
>like we have in the Challenger would cost me to replace the cheap, leaking
>plastic ones in the kit. He gave me a price of $150, guess I'll have to
>find another source.
>
Try Chief for the vent. Aluminum eyeball air vent $59 plus $15 for the
adapter shroud for 2" SCAT duct, page 77 of their 1999 vol 12 catalog. You
may still be able to use Van's adapter and save the $15 per vent. Wish I
had know about them before, or this just may be another excuse to spend
more $$$ on the RV instead of taking the wife out to dinner.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
>Subject: RV-List: Drilling round holes
>
>
>>I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
>>serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
>Mark: A local drill manufacturer once advised me that the natural tendency
>of a twist drill is to create a trilobal hole, that is, a hole that is out
>of round in three lobes. Consequently to get a truly round hole (or nearly
>so anyway) one drills undersize and reams to final size.
Sooo - Who out there can throw a little theory in and tell us all why a two
fluted bit will produce a three sided hole?
Just wondering.
DGM RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
Don't oversize it. Either tap it out without much force or use washers
to take up the extra lenght of the supplied bolt/screw or get a shorter
one. The airplane won't fall out of the air if this fastener doesn't
hold.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>
> Sorry Gang, I gotta jump in here.......this kind of response has no place in
> this forum. The question was asked by a BEGINNER........YOU sir, were there
> once one too.
>
> No Regards to the poster.
Actually, Jeff, I suspect that CTonnini(at)aol.com has never built a
plane....
Sam Buchanan
------------------------
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A 25171
> second main spar
> Peshtigo, WI
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
> To: Jorear
> Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 12:07 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling round holes
>
> >
> >
> >if you don't know how to make a round hole, please stay away from
> airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Was Round Holes/Discourtesy |
I stand corrected.
Sam Buchanan
------------------------
"Michael A. Pilla" wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
> I know Claudio quite well. English is not his first language; that is
> why he does not post very often.
>
> I strongly suspect that his message was simply to have the person learn
> how to do "shop tasks" (e.g., drilling round holes) *before* attempting
> to build an airplane.
>
> I have always found Claudio to be very helpful; he goes out of his way
> to provide assistance. I shared a hangar with Claudio for a while and
> got to know him quite well.
>
> For those who do not know him, Claudio is the builder/owner/pilot of the
> award winning RV-4, Purple Passion. This is the -4 that flew to the tip
> of South America on the way to Oshkosh one year. He encountered 100mph
> winds and fierce snowstorms to make the roughly 10,000 mile journey.
>
> If I thought that Claudio was being deliberately insulting, I would not
> come to his defense, but that is just not the man. Often, I have seen
> his posts be a simple "I know how, call me for details". Again, that is
> because of his discomfort with English.
>
> Michael Pilla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
I use a Unidrill quite frequently, and it makes perfect holes. However it
only comes in a few sizes (1/8,3/16, etc.)
Jeff.
On Fri, 17 Dec 1999, dgmurray wrote:
>
>
> >Subject: RV-List: Drilling round holes
> >
> >
> >>I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
> >>serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
> >Mark: A local drill manufacturer once advised me that the natural tendency
> >of a twist drill is to create a trilobal hole, that is, a hole that is out
> >of round in three lobes. Consequently to get a truly round hole (or nearly
> >so anyway) one drills undersize and reams to final size.
>
> Sooo - Who out there can throw a little theory in and tell us all why a two
> fluted bit will produce a three sided hole?
>
> Just wondering.
> DGM RV-6
> Southern Alberta
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Zenith-List: Nav light grounding |
>> I'm building a 701 but the answer should apply to a 601 as well. Do I
>> need to run a separate ground wire to my wing and tail nav lights and
>> strobe power supplies (mounted in the wing tips) or can I rely on the
>> aluminum airframe and pick up the tail light ground from the rear
>> fuselage and also put a wire between the wing structure and fuselage, to
>> assure no loss in the wing bolts, for the wing lights and strobes?
>The airframe is a good enough ground. Only concern is the corrossion caused
>by electric current (there should be information about this in the
>archieve).
This caveat has a very tiny support in the laws of
physics. IF a joint is likely to corrode due to any
chemical stress OTHER than flow of electrons through
a ground, then the stresses are increased by causing
a flow of electrons across the joint.
In actual practice, I've never seen it happen nor have
I found any other individual who has seen it happen and
properly indentified the physics that caused the problem.
The amount of time that any lighting or pitot heater is
turned ON compared to the total lifetime of an airframe
makes this a trivial concern.
>I participated on a workshop during Sun'n Fun last year. The guy told us,
>that there will be some corrosion when using the airframe as a ground, but
>it will be insignificant. The only ground cable that is really needed is
>from the starter (again, that was his opinion).
"Some" corrosion isn't a quantified statement. If he's
talking about stuff you might find with a microscope in
a poorly assembled joint then we can agree that "some"
corrosion will occur. If you've bolted everything together
werein all electrical and mechanical joints are gas tight
then no corrosion will occur . . . ever.
The strongest grounding concerns deal with voltage
drop due to poor ground pathway selection and dependence
upon mechanical joints for integrity of the electrical
system. Starter current and battery charging pathways
are the most critical because they are the highest currents
in the system (200A for some starters, 60A for lots of
alternators).
A bond strap between crankcase and a firewall ground
stud is a good thing. A healty wire connection between
battery minus and the same ground stud is another good
thing. Using this ground stud as the gathering point
for all electrical goodies behind the panel is a good
thing. If you've come this far, the use of airframe to
ground a few outlying components like nav lights, landing
light, pitot heat and strobes is a perfectly sensible
thing to do.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RodWoodard(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 Interior layout |
Hi Larry,
I've got an RV-3. In fact I think I talked briefly to you this year as I left
Oshkosh Friday night after the airshow.
In any case, I don't think it would be a problem to shorten the flap handle.
The only complaint I have with deploying my flaps stems from my own widebody
status. I'm wide enough that the seatbelt hardware sometimes interferes with
the flap detents. Shortening wouldn't be a problem.
Long live the RV-3!
Rod Woodard
Ft. Collins, Colorado
PS. I'll measure Van's quadrant when I'm at a friend's hangar today and post
the dimensions later this evening if you haven't already got the answer by
then.
In a message dated 12/17/99 7:14:39 AM Mountain Standard Time,
larryjenison(at)voyager.net writes:
> levers. Being right handed I would like this on the left side, the flap
> handle is also on the left. One way would be to shorten the flap lever
about
> 2 inches. Would I have to be a weight lifter to depoly flaps. Also if
anyone
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
Crossed messages, but Claudio built one an RV-3 (sold), an award winning
RV-4, Purple Passion, and started building a superfast RV-3. The second
RV-3 had all the major construction done; up to engine installation, and
incorporated a fastback turtle deck, etc. Very nice workmanship.
Claudio seriously injured his back in an accident and could no longer
work on the RV-3.
He also built a second set of wings for his RV-4 to get *lots* of fuel
for his *very* long trips (e.g., twice to the tip of South America),
frequent trips to Brazil, his home country, etc.)
As I stated in a previous message, English is not Claudio's native
language, but he is *very* helpful to anyone who asks.
Michael Pilla, former hangar mate of Claudio
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Jeff Orear wrote:
> >
> >
> > Sorry Gang, I gotta jump in here.......this kind of response has no place in
> > this forum. The question was asked by a BEGINNER........YOU sir, were there
> > once one too.
> >
> > No Regards to the poster.
>
> Actually, Jeff, I suspect that CTonnini(at)aol.com has never built a
> plane....
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> ------------------------
> >
> > Jeff Orear
> > RV6A 25171
> > second main spar
> > Peshtigo, WI
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
> > To: Jorear
> > Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 12:07 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling round holes
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >if you don't know how to make a round hole, please stay away from
> > airplanes.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
Sam: You are completely wrong about Claudio not having built RVs...One of the
best craftman I know...Suggest you check the last First Flight to Osh
race---3rd in class..Jim Brown, RV-3(2) and an RV-4, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
regarding my comment the other day about the rond holes. i'm sorry but i
placed that as a joke. my itentions were never to hurt or insult anyone. i
responded quickly from work and meant to explain in detail. meanwhile i got
caught up at work and forgot.
never thinking anything of it simply because it was a joke. once again i
apologize for the misunderstanding.
claudio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
FWIW, www.flightsuits.com sells flight suits. I don't have one and haven't
used this company--but they have a nice web site and easy measuring/ordering
instructions.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
> Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
The minimum required instrumentation can be found by looking at FAR 91.205,
which reads in part:
(b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Airspeed indicator.
(2) Altimeter.
(3) Magnetic direction indicator.
(4) Tachometer for each engine.
(5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
(6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
(7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
(8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
(9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
(10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
landing gear.
While the FAR states that this is for Standard Category aircraft, I doubt an
airworthiness inspector would allow less than this minimum list.
> I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few
> static source instruments as possible.
If you're building a VFR airplane, there's really no reason to have any
vacuum instruments at all. The minimum pitot-static insturments would be
the altimeter and airspeed indicator. No other pitot-static instruments are
required.
> ....but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of
> altimeter, directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb,
> and attitude gyro.
I'm not sure there are electronic replacements for the altimeter and
airspeed indicator that would pass muster with the Feds. There may be
suplimental electronic instruments for these functions, but I'm pretty sure
they're going to require you to have the "old fashioned" ones in there too.
Someone else might have more info on this. All the other instruments you
mention would only be necessary if you're going to equip the airplane for
IFR flying, which it appears you're trying to avoid.
Joe Norris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
In a message dated 12/17/1999 3:43:20 PM Central Standard Time,
tekrep(at)wans.net writes:
<< Scott,
I'm interested in finding out how much research you've done on the glass
cockpit. Have you been quoted a price yet from Archangel? Yours sounds
like exactly what I want to do with my Rocket. Are you planning on being
IFR cert?
Thanks for the info!
Regards,
Wes Triff
tekrep(at)wans.net
RV-8 tail/F-1 Rocket #0014
Atlanta
>>
Wes,
becarefull on that system. I have heard nothing but bad things about it. i
was looking at it for my rocket, but its not going to happen. I want stuff
thats reliable and if they cant even get it to work in the Lanceair IVP that
they were a sponser for in the race to oshkosh I know I dont want it. It is
nice, but I want stuff that works
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket, #Yf-001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Buster" <6430(at)axion.net> |
I'm pulling the plug...
Austin...basement driller..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bower <jimbower(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
I'm getting ready to build my RV-6A
early next year, and to avoid
aggravating my tendonitis, I would
like to buy a pneumatic squeezer.
Anybody out there who has one for
sale (Avery's style, only please)
please e-mail me and we can discuss
it. Also, if anybody knows a source
for good reconditioned squeezers,
I'd also like a reply. Thanks to
all. Happy building.
Jim Bower
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
>
>>I will use the Archangel EFIS. I will have a backup Altimeter and Airspeed
>>indicator. The S-Tec autopilot I am using is incorporated in a Turn
>>Coordinator so these 3 three instruments will be my partial panel IFR
>>backup cluster.
>>
>
>Scott,
>
>I'm interested in finding out how much research you've done on the glass
>cockpit. Have you been quoted a price yet from Archangel? Yours sounds
>like exactly what I want to do with my Rocket. Are you planning on being
>IFR cert?
>
>Thanks for the info!
>
>Regards,
>Wes Triff
>tekrep(at)wans.net
>RV-8 tail/F-1 Rocket #0014
>Atlanta
I do plan to IFR certify the airplane and fly it in light IFR.
I have collected marketing info and have a price of approx. $25,000 for a
complete system, but I have received recent info about some disgruntled
folks who have purchased the system. I just got off the phone with a guy
named James Rahm. He is a partner in a company in Florida that builds very
high horsepower Chevy V-8's for airplanes. He races his Lancair IVP and
wins a lot to demonstrate his engine company's performance capabilities.
He installed the Archangel system 4 years ago and it has never worked. He
has had it back to the factory 20 times and has had terrible support. He
is their flagship customer and the support was still terrible. After 4
years he finally gave up and asked them to take the system back and return
his money. They refused so now he takes every chance to tell his story of
being stranded in various strange towns 1,000 miles from home, having to
pull the system out of the airplane and shipping it to Archangel and
waiting 3 days in a hotel for them to send it back so he could reinstall it
and get home. That happened 4 times. In the mean time, he is out $20,000
on a system that he doesn't have the heart to sell to anyone else.
Anyway, now for the good news. He has since installed the Sierra Flight
Systems unit and has only fabulous things to say about it. I have started
to gather info on their system and am very impressed. Check it out at
www.sierraflightsystems.com. Poke around in there and download their demo.
It is incredible!!! The price is a bit higher at $29,900 but the features
are significantly better with the 3D mapping and vision system and the
Velocity Vector projection system. It is true "Hiway in the Sky"
representation. This stuff is new and should be carefully considered. You
should definitely plan on some key backup analog instruments to get you on
the ground in IFR in case the system fails. But just to lend some more
credibility, they are persuing FAA certification on this system to be used
in certified aircraft with the same software, hardware and features. The
testing involved to get this certification makes me feel more confident in
the product. Although, Archangel is about to get a similar certification
for another one of their products. So maybe certification isn't all that
confidence building. Let me know if you find out more than what I've told
you here.
What is the progress of your Rocket? My fast-build arrives in June and I
anticipate a 1.5 year build time.
Scot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 insurance weirdness |
Listers, especially RV8 folks,
In my frantic attempts to lock in an insurance policy before first flight
next week, I had a financially grim reminder of the wing failure of N58RV.
A little background is in order. I requested a quote from AOPA last summer
just for information and planning purposes. They quoted me approximately
$1600 for $45K hull value and $1M liability. They also required a three hour
checkout with a CFI in an RV4 or -8. OK, no problem, I did that in October,
and then some.
I requested a new quote today. Ack! my how things have changed. The new
quote....$2045!!!! Egads! What happened? Well, the second page of the fax
explained it.
"Carrier said OK for you to flyoff restricts if you desire. No passenger
coverage until restrictions flown off. (FYI-underwriter said there had been
some accidents due to wing loss. Wing spars aren't all the way to end of
wing, only to fuel tank)."
It would appear the underwriter doesn't have the facts straight. I'm not
going to try to explain it all to them, and will go with Nationair, which
quoted $1605 for a much higher hull value ($65K) and same liability limits.
I must add that Linda at AOPA was very courteous and professional and
responded to my quote request immediately. No complaints with them from that
standpoint.
As in all things financial, caveat emptor folks. Start your insurance
shopping early and I recommend going with a writer that is in tune with the
experimental world, especially RV's.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
first flight scheduled for next week. *gulp*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Marsland" <marsman(at)flash.net> |
Buster,
Dont pull the plug. Hang in there, especially if you are in Austin you have
en a great support group.
Keith Marsland
RV6AQB Austin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Buster
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 4:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: The List
I'm pulling the plug...
Austin...basement driller..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
Check with George Orndorff..he has sold reconditioned units in the past.
Avery might even have one.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <jimbower(at)sprintmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 3:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer
>
> I'm getting ready to build my RV-6A
> early next year, and to avoid
> aggravating my tendonitis, I would
> like to buy a pneumatic squeezer.
> Anybody out there who has one for
> sale (Avery's style, only please)
> please e-mail me and we can discuss
> it. Also, if anybody knows a source
> for good reconditioned squeezers,
> I'd also like a reply. Thanks to
> all. Happy building.
>
> Jim Bower
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Austin,
We know where you live (high above) and expect to see a random posting from
our friend and solence "Corsair" every once in a while.
Happy Holidays & Best Wishes,
Chuck Rowbotham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance Fuel Injection |
Would like to correspond with anyone having a couple
hundred hours with an Airflow Performance fuel injection
set-up and a 4 position CHT guage. Please contact me
off list.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance Fuel Injection |
Sorry, should read 4 position EGT guage
Thomas McIntyre wrote:
>
> Would like to correspond with anyone having a couple
> hundred hours with an Airflow Performance fuel injection
> set-up and a 4 position CHT guage. Please contact me
> off list.
> Tom
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Fromm-JJ" <fromm.jj(at)pg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
Mark Schrimmer wrote:
> I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
> serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
I'm a new builder too (-8 empennage) and I've had many of the same questions
I've seen posted here in the last few days. In fact, my first few building
sessions were kind of discouraging, wondering about the dearth of information on
some of the bags in the kit, the unsightly rings left by the male dimple die,
the looseness of -3 rivets in a dimpled hole even after using a #41 drill (all
of which have been addressed by replies). I would like to have had an
experienced builder I could have bounced these questions off of, but I didn't
have that luxury. I considered a post to this list but was too afraid. I know
most of the folks are very understanding and patient, but I think it's a fair
expectation that we newbies do our homework before asking basic questions. But
I've read the manual and watched the videos a zillion times, checked this list
daily and visited dozens of web sites and still had some of these same
questions.
I don't know if there's a better way. Maybe more detail in the construction
manual (although I realize there are limits to what you can practically do
there). Or maybe a compiled list of these FAQ's in chronological order as you
could expect to encounter them in the building process, posted on something like
Jeremy's SourceRV page.
Anyway, I'm grateful for those who were brave enough to ask the questions and
the understanding of all those who posted helpful answers.
Jack Fromm
Hunt Valley, MD
Just finished first priming session.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | source for alternators |
I just deleted the internally regulated alternator from my 0-360 on order
from Aerosport in order to use a separate voltage reg, etc., etc. Bart
deducts $225 to leave off the 40 amp alternator. Of course, a replacement B
& C 40 amp without internal regulator from Spruce is $390, so the financial
penalty here is obvious. I just decided the simplicity was worth the extra
cost. My question is, does anyone know of a better (i.e., cheaper) source
for B & C alternators? I'm also in the market for a small auxillary
alternator.
Thanks,
Jerry Carter
8A Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Van's 2000 Calendar |
Ed,
Part of the reason the Van's 2000 Calendar looks so nice is your
excellent photography on the front cover in which you captured all seven
of Van's model in one frame. First Time ever.
Good work.
Stu McCurdy
RV-3
From: Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Van's Year 2000 calendar
If you have a spare space on your workshop wall, I would recommend the
latest Van's Year 2000 Calendar as a good way to fill it. I've just seen
a
copy and it looks good.
Last time I looked, there was ordering information for it on their
website.
Ed Hicks
Ordering RV-6 QB.
Bristol UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Help on stripped bolt |
I need some advice from you skilled machinists/ mechanics out there.
I have an AN-3 bolt, attaching a bracket to the wing center section, which
is stripped.
The nut will turn freely on the bolt but will neither tighten nor loosen.
And, yes, the assembly does need to be removed.
The bolt head is inaccessable, except to a very long wrench. The nut is
exposed, but is in very close quarters: can't get a hacksaw or a bolt cutter
on it. I can get to it with a die grinder or a drill.
What's the best way to try to get this thing out without destroying the
structural integrity of my airplane?
George Kilishek
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on stripped bolt |
The best way to get the nut off is use a nut splitter or diegrind thru one
half of the nut and it will come off.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Sally and George <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Help on stripped bolt
>
> I need some advice from you skilled machinists/ mechanics out there.
>
> I have an AN-3 bolt, attaching a bracket to the wing center section, which
> is stripped.
> The nut will turn freely on the bolt but will neither tighten nor loosen.
> And, yes, the assembly does need to be removed.
>
> The bolt head is inaccessable, except to a very long wrench. The nut is
> exposed, but is in very close quarters: can't get a hacksaw or a bolt
cutter
> on it. I can get to it with a die grinder or a drill.
>
> What's the best way to try to get this thing out without destroying the
> structural integrity of my airplane?
>
> George Kilishek
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
The curved pieces of the baffles that curve underneath the cylinders: The
plans show some kind of wire or something tying the front to the rear. Has
anyone come up with a method here that is simple to install and works well?
Also, it says "optional" Has anyone not connected them, and not had any
cooling problems?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: source for alternators |
How about Van's?
For the price of a B & C you could probably get three, maybe four from
Van's. Mine lasted over 200 hours, probably would have gone alot longer if I
installed a blast tube for cooling. ( Always something left to do!) Even if
I have to replace the alt every 200hrs, this would be over 800 hours of use
for the price of one B & C.
Can you expect to get 800+ hours out of the B&C unit?
Walt
RV-6A N79WH 252hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
You know, it's not the rivets agrivating my tendonitis, it's those darn
many cleco's I'm inserting and removing. Maybe you wanna also look into
a pneumatic cloco tool.
Gert
Jim Bower wrote:
>
>
> I'm getting ready to build my RV-6A
> early next year, and to avoid
> aggravating my tendonitis, I would
> like to buy a pneumatic squeezer.
> Anybody out there who has one for
> sale (Avery's style, only please)
> please e-mail me and we can discuss
> it. Also, if anybody knows a source
> for good reconditioned squeezers,
> I'd also like a reply. Thanks to
> all. Happy building.
>
> Jim Bower
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
Joe Norris wrote:
> I'm not sure there are electronic replacements for the altimeter and
> airspeed indicator that would pass muster with the Feds. There may be
> suplimental electronic instruments for these functions, but I'm pretty sure
> they're going to require you to have the "old fashioned" ones in there too.
> Someone else might have more info on this. All the other instruments you
> mention would only be necessary if you're going to equip the airplane for
> IFR flying, which it appears you're trying to avoid.
Joe, the RMI uEncoder is in use in many RV's, no doubt as sole pitot
instruments in several of them. The uEncoder encorporates airspeed
indicator, altimeter, and vertical speed indicator. I installed a backup
2" airspeed indicator in my RV-6, but the RMI unit serves alone as the
other pitot instruments.
I don't think a DAR will have any grounds to give a builder a hassle
over using the uEncoder as the only pitot instruments since the FARS
don't dictate mechanical vs electronic, but prudence, especially in an
IFR plane, would suggest the advantages of having mechanical backups.
By the way, the uEncoder has worked flawlessly in 399SB, and I have come
to enjoy flying with it once I recalibrated my brain to think digitally
instead of analogically.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scat Tube Routing to Heat Muff. |
In a message dated 12/16/99 10:39:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
> In a message dated 12/16/99 9:53:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> Gusndale(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << I know that I could take fresh air from the aft end of the baffles a
> little easier but I'd prefer to take it from up front if I can. >>
>
> Why make things more difficult? If you pick it up low on the rear barrel
> baffle wrap-around(s) it will already be slightly warm before it goes thru
> the muff(s).
>
> -GV
GV
Thanks for your response. To answer your question, I may be mistaken in
this but my reasoning in wanting to pull cabin heat fresh air in from close
to the cowl inlet is to avoid getting oil scented or otherwise contaminated
air in the cabin.
I realize this wouldn't be an issue except at taxi speeds (after a hot
stop) because of the direction of the airflow through the baffles when
flying. I'm just wanting to avoid oil fouled air in the cabin after, for
instance, a short stop with a hot engine. Maybe this doesn't really happen
or is too slight to bother with. I have only two brief rides in RVs and
neither time with cabin heat on so I don't really know if its a problem.
I'm extrapolating a bit from my experience with a Porsche 911 I once
owned. It had a tired engine for a while before it was rebuilt. One of
the benefits of the rebuild was being able to open the heater vents and not
smell the engine....I always felt much cooler on dates when we didn't smell
the engine. (pun intended) Anyway, I think the Porsche is a heat muff style
heater too.
So I guess my question is ......Do you get engine smells in the cabin
with the fresh air intakes on the back of the engine baffles or am I trying
to solve a problem that I don't have?
Thanks for your thoughts on this.
Dale Wotring
RV6A
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
These pieces, when pulled together seal the baffle around the cooling fins
and enhance the cooling effort. I tied mine together with .041 safety wire
run through plastic tubing.
Bill Pagan
N565BW Airwothiness Certificate issued 12/17/99!
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>The curved pieces of the baffles that curve underneath the cylinders: The
>plans show some kind of wire or something tying the front to the rear. Has
>anyone come up with a method here that is simple to install and works well?
>Also, it says "optional" Has anyone not connected them, and not had any
>cooling problems?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
>
> I'm getting ready to build my RV-6A
> early next year, and to avoid
> aggravating my tendonitis, I would
> like to buy a pneumatic squeezer.
If you will contact Fred Kunkle at:
rvator(at)earthlink.net
He can help you with a reconditioned unit.
I am on the mend from Carpal Tunnel surgery on my right hand (keyboard
or celcos - who knows for sure?) and it gave me a great excuse to buy
more tools.
I got a squeezer from Fred and once cleared back to building in small
doses, it has saved me big time.
WRT clecos in another reply, I also bought an air cleco gun - well
worth the price IMHO.
If you get a squeezer from Fred (Can't see why not - CP214 style and
great price) you will want to get an adjustable set holder from Avery's
as well.
When I first tried to squeeze 1/8 rivets I was using the tool
incorrectly. An email to Fred got an offer to pay shipping back to let
him look at it, or I could try a couple of things... his suggestions
worked and I'm doing 1/8 rivets on the rear spar without problem.
Fits all my Avery squeezer yokes, works great - I'm building again!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
>
> >
> > I'm getting ready to build my RV-6A
> > early next year, and to avoid
> > aggravating my tendonitis, I would
> > like to buy a pneumatic squeezer.
> If you will contact Fred Kunkle at:
> rvator(at)earthlink.net
That should be Fred Kunkel.
Sorry, Fred.
- Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
>I'm getting ready to build my RV-6A
early next year, and to avoid
aggravating my tendonitis, I would
like to buy a pneumatic squeezer.
Anybody out there who has one for
sale (Avery's style, only please)
please e-mail me and we can discuss
it. Also, if anybody knows a source
for good reconditioned squeezers,
I'd also like a reply. Thanks to
all. Happy building.
Jim Bower
Jim, try Fred Kunkel at FredKunkel@oneca, I bought a used CP 3x rivet gun
from him that I'm very happy with and I know he reconditions pneumatic
squeezers also, although I don't know what types. He will e-mail you a copy
of his inventory on request. Good luck with your 6 project, By the way, I
share your difficulties with tendonitis, although mine has been quiet for a
while now. Andy Johnson, Boca Raton, FL, -8 wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
>I'm a new builder too (-8 empennage) and I've had many of the same questions
I've seen posted here in the last few days. In fact, my first few building
sessions were kind of discouraging, wondering about the dearth of information
on
some of the bags in the kit, the unsightly rings left by the male dimple die,
the looseness of -3 rivets in a dimpled hole even after using a #41 drill (all
of which have been addressed by replies). I would like to have had an
experienced builder I could have bounced these questions off of, but I didn't
have that luxury. I considered a post to this list but was too afraid. I
know
most of the folks are very understanding and patient, but I think it's a fair
expectation that we newbies do our homework before asking basic questions.
But
I've read the manual and watched the videos a zillion times, checked this list
daily and visited dozens of web sites and still had some of these same
questions.<
Jack, you didn't mention the archives, so I'll assume (we know what that
means) that you haven't tried them yet. Many, if not all, of the basic
questions at least have been covered several times over and there is a great
amount of info available. But don't be shy about asking any question, we were
all newbies once, and we're all still learning at one level or another.
Remember that the only really dumb question is the one you don't ask. Andy
Johnson, -8 wings, relative newbie.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
Jack: Don't be afraid to ask questions, 90% of the guys on this list are
here to help. There is a lot of talent with builders that have built more
than one RV. I see you are in MD, I love in Dover building a RV-6AQB. This
is my second RV, I am retired and work on the RV almost every day. Feel
free to contact me any time off line, if you have a question, maybe I can
help.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB-Riveting skin.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Fromm-JJ <fromm.jj(at)pg.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling round holes
>
> Mark Schrimmer wrote:
> > I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
> > serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
>
> I'm a new builder too (-8 empennage) and I've had many of the same
questions
> I've seen posted here in the last few days. In fact, my first few
building
> sessions were kind of discouraging, wondering about the dearth of
information on
> some of the bags in the kit, the unsightly rings left by the male dimple
die,
> the looseness of -3 rivets in a dimpled hole even after using a #41 drill
(all
> of which have been addressed by replies). I would like to have had an
> experienced builder I could have bounced these questions off of, but I
didn't
> have that luxury. I considered a post to this list but was too afraid. I
know
> most of the folks are very understanding and patient, but I think it's a
fair
> expectation that we newbies do our homework before asking basic questions.
But
> I've read the manual and watched the videos a zillion times, checked this
list
> daily and visited dozens of web sites and still had some of these same
> questions.
>
> I don't know if there's a better way. Maybe more detail in the
construction
> manual (although I realize there are limits to what you can practically do
> there). Or maybe a compiled list of these FAQ's in chronological order as
you
> could expect to encounter them in the building process, posted on
something like
> Jeremy's SourceRV page.
>
> Anyway, I'm grateful for those who were brave enough to ask the questions
and
> the understanding of all those who posted helpful answers.
>
> Jack Fromm
> Hunt Valley, MD
> Just finished first priming session.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
Mike, how about posting the tips on how to use the pneumatic squeezer?
Marty in Brentwood TN
> If you will contact Fred Kunkle at:
> rvator(at)earthlink.net
> He can help you with a reconditioned unit.
> I am on the mend from Carpal Tunnel surgery on my right hand (keyboard
> or celcos - who knows for sure?) and it gave me a great excuse to buy
> more tools.
> I got a squeezer from Fred and once cleared back to building in small
> doses, it has saved me big time.
> WRT clecos in another reply, I also bought an air cleco gun - well
> worth the price IMHO.
>
> If you get a squeezer from Fred (Can't see why not - CP214 style and
> great price) you will want to get an adjustable set holder from Avery's
> as well.
> When I first tried to squeeze 1/8 rivets I was using the tool
> incorrectly. An email to Fred got an offer to pay shipping back to let
> him look at it, or I could try a couple of things... his suggestions
> worked and I'm doing 1/8 rivets on the rear spar without problem.
> Fits all my Avery squeezer yokes, works great - I'm building again!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
>
>The curved pieces of the baffles that curve underneath the cylinders: The
>plans show some kind of wire or something tying the front to the rear. Has
>anyone come up with a method here that is simple to install and works well?
>Also, it says "optional" Has anyone not connected them, and not had any
>cooling problems?
>
Paul,
It is best to keep them tight against the fins so that cooling air goes
between the fins and not around them for cooling. I used a welding rod cut
to length and threaded both ends, two holes drilled in the front and back
flanges and used a couple of nylock nuts picked up at an automotive shop.
Worked fine.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. First Flight Sept. 8,1993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
>
> Mike, how about posting the tips on how to use the pneumatic
> squeezer?
> Marty in Brentwood TN
I my case I had the set holder sdjusted too close. The pneumatic
squeezer will generate 3000 pounds of force, but only in the last 1/8
inch of travel, IIRC). Had to adjust the set holder back out so it was
just approaching its limit as it reached the rivet. I still have some
fooling around to do to get the recipie just right - Fred recommended
making some guides for different thickness material but I don't think
I'll go that far - with an adjustable set holder (screw in-screw out)
it's easy to get the right setting, after some fumbling (for me).
I'm sorry I can't repeat all of Fred's comments as what I tried worked
and I didn't save his note.
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: source for alternators |
680 hours on my Vans unit and still ticking. Yes
it is blast cooled.
TomRV3
Rvator97(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> How about Van's?
> For the price of a B & C you could probably get three, maybe four from
> Van's. Mine lasted over 200 hours, probably would have gone alot longer if I
> installed a blast tube for cooling. ( Always something left to do!) Even if
> I have to replace the alt every 200hrs, this would be over 800 hours of use
> for the price of one B & C.
> Can you expect to get 800+ hours out of the B&C unit?
>
> Walt
> RV-6A N79WH 252hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
A little additional research in the FARs also uncovered a requirement FAR
135.159 for a gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator for VFR night flight.
It looks like there are some pretty good glass cockpit ( affordable )
alternatives to a vacuum system ( from companies like RMI, Navaid, and Vision
Micro Systems to name a few ), with plenty of room left over for pitot-static
backups of critical systems. Some even have RS-232 outputs so that computer
geeks like me still have some room for experimentation.
Thanks to all for the good feedback,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Empennage
N89JA (reserved )
"Joe Norris" on 12/17/99 02:57:00 PM
Please respond to rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Joe Norris"
> Can anyone tell me what the minimum compliment of instrumentation is?
The minimum required instrumentation can be found by looking at FAR 91.205,
which reads in part:
(b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Airspeed indicator.
(2) Altimeter.
(3) Magnetic direction indicator.
(4) Tachometer for each engine.
(5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
(6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
(7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
(8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
(9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
(10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
landing gear.
While the FAR states that this is for Standard Category aircraft, I doubt an
airworthiness inspector would allow less than this minimum list.
> I have decided to try and live without a vacuum pump, and as few
> static source instruments as possible.
If you're building a VFR airplane, there's really no reason to have any
vacuum instruments at all. The minimum pitot-static insturments would be
the altimeter and airspeed indicator. No other pitot-static instruments are
required.
> ....but I need a good source for the electronics replacement of
> altimeter, directional gyro, turn and bank, air speed, rate of climb,
> and attitude gyro.
I'm not sure there are electronic replacements for the altimeter and
airspeed indicator that would pass muster with the Feds. There may be
suplimental electronic instruments for these functions, but I'm pretty sure
they're going to require you to have the "old fashioned" ones in there too.
Someone else might have more info on this. All the other instruments you
mention would only be necessary if you're going to equip the airplane for
IFR flying, which it appears you're trying to avoid.
Joe Norris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | uEncoder visibility |
>Is anyone using an RMI as the primary flight reference altimeter? If so,
any >problems with visibility?
I have a uEncoder top center in my -4 panel. It is not the primary; I use
both analog and digital at different times while flying. There is no problem
seeing the display at any time.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bower <jimbower(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
To RV8DRIVER...
You said you didn't have the luxury
of an experienced builder to ask.
Forgive me if this is old territory,
but have you hooked up with an EAA
chapter in your area? Statistically
given the number of Van's aircraft
out there, I would guess that every
chapter has at least one RV
builder. The best help and hands on
experience I have received came from
a gent in my chapter who has
completed two RVs. Even a short (?)
trip to visit somebody with the
experience you seek would seem to be
feasable. Good luck.
RV-6A kit (early next year)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
Jim,
Good research job, but this FAR (135.159) does not apply to any
instrumentation required in a general aviation aircraft. Part 135 has to do
with charter flying, etc., a more stringent aspect of aviation. When doing
research in this area, you want to stay in Part 91.
Good luck on the tail.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
>
> A little additional research in the FARs also uncovered a requirement FAR
> 135.159 for a gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator for VFR night flight.
>
> It looks like there are some pretty good glass cockpit ( affordable )
> alternatives to a vacuum system ( from companies like RMI, Navaid, and
Vision
> Micro Systems to name a few ), with plenty of room left over for
pitot-static
> backups of critical systems. Some even have RS-232 outputs so that
computer
> geeks like me still have some room for experimentation.
>
> Thanks to all for the good feedback,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ Empennage
> N89JA (reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: uEncoder visibility |
I have mine top center, pilot side, on a 6A. and never have had a
seconds worth of problems with visibility or anything else.
you can see the installation at:
http://scribers.midwest.net/razer/
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick McBride <rickrv8(at)qwestinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
Similarly to Ken's welding rod I used threaded rod I purchased at Home Depot.
This also worked well. I initially went the safety wire route but noticed after
a couple hundred hours that vibration was beginning to allow the wire to cut
through the baffle. I switched to the treaded rod and flew my -6 for another
300 hours before I sold it. The rods didn't cut into the baffle and never
failed.
Rick McBride
RV6 N523JC
RV8 80027
Ken Hoshowski wrote:
>
> >
> >The curved pieces of the baffles that curve underneath the cylinders: The
> >plans show some kind of wire or something tying the front to the rear. Has
> >anyone come up with a method here that is simple to install and works well?
> >Also, it says "optional" Has anyone not connected them, and not had any
> >cooling problems?
> >
> Paul,
> It is best to keep them tight against the fins so that cooling air goes
> between the fins and not around them for cooling. I used a welding rod cut
> to length and threaded both ends, two holes drilled in the front and back
> flanges and used a couple of nylock nuts picked up at an automotive shop.
> Worked fine.
>
> Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
> Salmon Arm B.C. First Flight Sept. 8,1993
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Norris" <jnorris(at)tznet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Glass Cockpit |
> A little additional research in the FARs also uncovered a requirement FAR
> 135.159 for a gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator for VFR night flight.
As this is a part 135 regulation, it only applies to Part 135 charter
operations. Our RV-8s wouldn't be involved in this, so this "requirement"
won't apply to us. Part 91 ops, which includes the flying done in homebuilt
aircraft, has no such requirement.
Joe Norris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scat Tube Routing to Heat Muff. |
In a message dated 12/17/99 7:36:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Gusndale(at)aol.com writes:
<< So I guess my question is ......Do you get engine smells in the cabin
with the fresh air intakes on the back of the engine baffles or am I trying
to solve a problem that I don't have? >>
Absolutely no smells at all in the cabin (unless I cut the cheese). You are
trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist IMO. Seems to me if you had oil
leaking out of the cylinders you would want to fix it anyway.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source for alternators |
Unfortunately no, I have yet to see any discount to the B&C stuff. They do
make quality starters and alternators. They do make a small 8 amp
alternator which hooks up to the vac pad, had one on another airplane with
400+ trouble free hours.
C.H.
----------
> From: Jerry Carter <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: source for alternators
> Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 8:06 PM
>
>
> I just deleted the internally regulated alternator from my 0-360 on order
> from Aerosport in order to use a separate voltage reg, etc., etc. Bart
> deducts $225 to leave off the 40 amp alternator. Of course, a
replacement B
> & C 40 amp without internal regulator from Spruce is $390, so the
financial
> penalty here is obvious. I just decided the simplicity was worth the
extra
> cost. My question is, does anyone know of a better (i.e., cheaper)
source
> for B & C alternators? I'm also in the market for a small auxillary
> alternator.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry Carter
> 8A Fuse
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VOR antenna location |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
a few days ago i asked for general tips on antennas. thanks for all the
inputs.
now i have a specific question about the VOR antenna (CI-159 cat-whisker
style). the best places to mount seem to be on the top of the vertical stab
(as shown in a recent rvator), or to the bottom of the fuselage under the
horizontal stab.
how would reception performance compare between the two? any other pros and
cons?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Pneumatic squeezer |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
jim,
check out "the yard" in wichita. you can call them at 1-800-888-8991, or
they are on the web at www.yardstore.com and have lots of used, new, and
surplus tools available.
i bought a used pneumatic squeezer from them which i have been very happy
with. they are very cheap (starting at $195) compared to the new ones, but i
don't think they are overhauled. the unit arrived kind of greasy, with
plenty of nicks and scratches. it ain't pretty, but it does a great job of
squeezing rivets! a used standard "C" style yoke was also included. anyway,
they will guarantee it (money back, 30-days i think, but you can check).
mine has never given me any trouble at all.
to complement it, i bought the avery hand squeezer with the 4" longeron
yoke, and two sets of quick-change pins since the yokes are interchangeable.
you might want to ask if they have a pneumatic cleco tool. i think they have
lots of "one-of" items that they don't put on the website or catalogs.
good luck,
louis cappucci
rv-6a
mamaroneck, ny
----------
>From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>To: RV-List Digest List
>Subject: RV-List Digest: 12/17/99
>Date: Sat, Dec 18, 1999, 2:57 AM
>
>
>I'm getting ready to build my RV-6A
>early next year, and to avoid
>aggravating my tendonitis, I would
>like to buy a pneumatic squeezer.
>Anybody out there who has one for
>sale (Avery's style, only please)
>please e-mail me and we can discuss
>it. Also, if anybody knows a source
>for good reconditioned squeezers,
>I'd also like a reply. Thanks to
>all. Happy building.
>
>Jim Bower
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
i have a unibit step drill which works fine for the first couple of "steps,"
but then gets stuck on one of them (the same one every time). it just won't
drill though that particular size.
can i sharpen it myself? any tips?
better yet, please tell me that unibit has a lifetime guarantee!
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
Paul you need to pull these snug around the cylinders so you need
something, I have seen twisted wire, small rod with clamps, I used
6-32 threaded rod from hardware store with jam nuts. just be sure
you cover with nylon tube or similar to prevent wear against oil
drain tubes, I put bend around oil tubes on mine, hope this helps.
Wayne RV4 fing fairing, too cold to work on it.
Paul Besing wrote:
> The curved pieces of the baffles that curve underneath the cylinders: The
> plans show some kind of wire or something tying the front to the rear. Has
> anyone come up with a method here that is simple to install and works well?
> Also, it says "optional" Has anyone not connected them, and not had any
> cooling problems?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
this is what I did: drilled two little holes in the piece that curves under
the cylinder the little holes are vertical just large enough for safety wire.
then used RTV {just a dab} to hold a piece of SS hinge pin and run the safety
wire from the back to the front. twisted it a little. then fed it through the
two vertical holes in the front piece of curved baffle in the front. Also
around the short piece of SS hinge pin. the pin keeps the wire from pulling
through the baffle material worked for me. Tip- let the RTV dry makes a
neeter job. N468TC,airport by Jan 1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
I agree that the Sierra Flight Systems MFD is one of the neatest things
I have ever seen. However, I had a heart-to-heart talk with the Sierra
guys at Copperstate. They are going after the high-end market,
primarily Biz Jets, turbines, and high-dollar twin recips. Their
"standard" system for these applications will cost upwards of $100,000.
( Even before they have manufactured one unit, they have beaucoups
orders, so if they ever issue stock, I'm planning to buy a few shares.)
Anyway, their "stripped down" version for general aviation and
experimentals is still going to cost around $40,000. I'm not sure where
the figure of $29,000 came from, because $40,000 is what one of the
principals of the company told me personally.
There are alternatives that will do almost as much for a fraction of the
cost. For starters, there is the new UPS (II Morrow) MFD for around
$6000, that will do a lot of what the Sierra system will do. The UPS
system does not have the "look forward" feature with the 3D terrain
depiction and velocity vectors. But there is a company called Free
Flight (www.freeflight.com) that does have it. It's not actually an
MFD, it's a computer program, and it's designed to run on one of several
different palm top computers. It appears to do everything the Sierra
system does. The cost of the FreeFlight program is two or three hundred
dollars, plus the cost of the appropriate palm top ($700 - $1200).
I know of more that one person who is planning to put one of these in
the panel of their RV.
There will undoubtedly be other things like this coming down the pike
within the next one or two years. For those who desire a glass cockpit,
you might consider just leaving a space for it in your panel and just
sit back and see what develops in the next year. Things are progressing
so rapidly in this area it is truly breathtaking. You will have a lot
more options before long, and prices are going to come way down.
George True
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Anyone know where one can obtain some stainless steel flap tape? Van's
doesn't carry it any more in favor of the UHMW tape. I kind of like the look
of the SS version.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, waiting for Brian Denk to fly
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Repacking Wheel Bearings |
Listers,
I'm convinced that I've gotten all sorts of crud in my wheel bearings
(fiberglass dust, aluminum dust, etc).. How do I clean and repack these
bearings?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SS flap tape |
>
>Anyone know where one can obtain some stainless steel flap tape? Van's
>doesn't carry it any more in favor of the UHMW tape. I kind of like the look
>of the SS version.
J.C.Whitney used to have it in their printed catalog, but I couldn't find
it on their online catalog. I like the look of the stainless much better
too, but the stuff is like working with a sticky razor blade four feet
long. It also has the memory of a beer can and is just about as easy to
damage. You'll see every crease, ripple, and bubble.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | conterweighed cranks |
snip> The counter weighted cranks were developed for an application
>and neither Aaron nore I can recall exactly what that was at this time.
>AL
>
fig 1-10 page 13 of ac65-12A covers dynamic dampers.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
=========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 tip up canopy handle |
Ken:
I sure like your idea, but can't seem to see how it goes together.
Could you list the dimentions & type of material for the "sub pieces"
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
============================================================
writes:
>
>
>>
>>How do the rest of you lift your RV-6 tip up canopies?
>
>Stephen,
>I recessed mine similar to most automotive car handle assemblies.
>I can lift up with my index and second fingers and then grab the back,
>middle of the canopy with my right hand to complete the opening.
>I used a piece of 3/8" aluminum flat bar about 2 1/2 "long and 1 1/2"
>wide
>and a piece 2 1/2 " x 3/8 " wide. The finger hold was filed in the
>larger
>piece centered so that the two fingers would fit and tapered from the
>3/8 "
>to 1/16 " A hole was cut in the canopy skirt and filed to match the
>finger
>hold piece. The 2 1/2 x 3/8 piece was mounted directly above to cover
>the
>taper and keep air and wind out. I think it looks good and has no
>drag. I
>found this process hard to explain so hope you can figure out what I
>am
>trying to say.
>
>Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
>Salmon Arm B.C. (digging out of our first snowfall, one foot
>yesterday,
>melting today, slush, ugh!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
>
>Lister's,
>
>I am installing the baffles in my 8A - IO360 200hp angle valve
>Lycoming.
>
>One of the baffle screw holes forward left case by the starter is
>stripped
>out about 1/2 down the hole & the screw will not thread to the bottom.
>
>What is the best way to fix?
Mark:
I would guess the bolt is (non-critical) for the job. The bad threads
are likely
the starting ones that won't let the bolt get started into what's left.
I would try a (bottoming tap) & clean them up. Now you got to put on your
stress-guesser hat. Will it do the job & not fail. I would think three
good threads would be OK. if it fails, what happens?
It can be drilled out & use a Heli-coil, but I would go hunting an A&P if
you go that way.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
=======================================================
>
>Can I use a tap to clean up the threads. If this doesn't work what is
>the
>next step? Could I use a threaded insert, or drill & tap to the next
>larger
>size bolt AN4.
>
>I don't want to make it worse, what is my best course of action.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
Amen George,
I have downloaded the Free Flight demo and played with it. Pretty cool.
I just happen to have a palmtop ( Toshiba Libretto ) that is a 100 mhz pentum
running windows NT. I also have a Garman 195 GPS that I can link together to
run Free Flight.
There are just to many cool things that you can do with a palmtop in the cockpit
to leave it out. Aside from the obvious navigation uses, I have loads of notes
( check lists - emergency and others ) proper dialog with Tower, Departure
Control, Ground Control, etc. ect. that I have floating around my cockpit that
I
would kill to have in an easily accessible database.
Yes, I have already reserved the 40 square inches in my cockpit.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A Empennage
N89JA ( reserved )
George True on 12/19/99 12:08:05 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Glass Cockpit
I agree that the Sierra Flight Systems MFD is one of the neatest things
I have ever seen. However, I had a heart-to-heart talk with the Sierra
guys at Copperstate. They are going after the high-end market,
primarily Biz Jets, turbines, and high-dollar twin recips. Their
"standard" system for these applications will cost upwards of $100,000.
( Even before they have manufactured one unit, they have beaucoups
orders, so if they ever issue stock, I'm planning to buy a few shares.)
Anyway, their "stripped down" version for general aviation and
experimentals is still going to cost around $40,000. I'm not sure where
the figure of $29,000 came from, because $40,000 is what one of the
principals of the company told me personally.
There are alternatives that will do almost as much for a fraction of the
cost. For starters, there is the new UPS (II Morrow) MFD for around
$6000, that will do a lot of what the Sierra system will do. The UPS
system does not have the "look forward" feature with the 3D terrain
depiction and velocity vectors. But there is a company called Free
Flight (www.freeflight.com) that does have it. It's not actually an
MFD, it's a computer program, and it's designed to run on one of several
different palm top computers. It appears to do everything the Sierra
system does. The cost of the FreeFlight program is two or three hundred
dollars, plus the cost of the appropriate palm top ($700 - $1200).
I know of more that one person who is planning to put one of these in
the panel of their RV.
There will undoubtedly be other things like this coming down the pike
within the next one or two years. For those who desire a glass cockpit,
you might consider just leaving a space for it in your panel and just
sit back and see what develops in the next year. Things are progressing
so rapidly in this area it is truly breathtaking. You will have a lot
more options before long, and prices are going to come way down.
George True
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source for alternators |
>
>Unfortunately no, I have yet to see any discount to the B&C stuff. They do
>make quality starters and alternators. They do make a small 8 amp
>alternator which hooks up to the vac pad, had one on another airplane with
>400+ trouble free hours.
>----------
>>
>> I just deleted the internally regulated alternator from my 0-360 on order
>> from Aerosport in order to use a separate voltage reg, etc., etc. Bart
>> deducts $225 to leave off the 40 amp alternator. Of course, a replacement
>> B & C 40 amp without internal regulator from Spruce is $390, so the
>> financial penalty here is obvious. I just decided the simplicity was
worth the
>> extra cost. My question is, does anyone know of a better (i.e., cheaper)
>> source for B & C alternators? I'm also in the market for a small auxillary
>> alternator.
Unlike the certified junk flying on most TC light planes,
the B&C aircraft incarnation of the Nipon-Dienso alternators
have a zero wearout or workmanship failure rate for thousands
of alternators shipped over the past ten years. It should
be the first and last alternator you put on your airplane.
B&C also offers two vacuum pump pad mounted alternators.
The SD-8 (which is good for about 10 amps) and the SD-20
which will give you 20-25 amps of power from a second
engine driven power source.
Take a peek at a recently published article at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/allelect.pdf
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
I have seen many tied with safety wire, the original rods, and left open on
several production aircraft with no problems. On thing to be careful of
here is that what ever you use make sure that you check that it doesn't hit
the oil return tubes. I have seen a lot of them wear thru the returns tubes
and it makes an oily mess. I am going to leave mine off if I ever get to
that point.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Baffle Question
>
> The curved pieces of the baffles that curve underneath the cylinders: The
> plans show some kind of wire or something tying the front to the rear.
Has
> anyone come up with a method here that is simple to install and works
well?
> Also, it says "optional" Has anyone not connected them, and not had any
> cooling problems?
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: source for alternators |
I have seen more than 2000 hrs. on a B&C unit.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvator97(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: source for alternators
>
> How about Van's?
> For the price of a B & C you could probably get three, maybe four from
> Van's. Mine lasted over 200 hours, probably would have gone alot longer
if I
> installed a blast tube for cooling. ( Always something left to do!) Even
if
> I have to replace the alt every 200hrs, this would be over 800 hours of
use
> for the price of one B & C.
> Can you expect to get 800+ hours out of the B&C unit?
>
> Walt
> RV-6A N79WH 252hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source for alternators |
>
>How about Van's?
> For the price of a B & C you could probably get three, maybe four from
>Van's. Mine lasted over 200 hours, probably would have gone alot longer
if I
>installed a blast tube for cooling. ( Always something left to do!) Even if
>I have to replace the alt every 200hrs, this would be over 800 hours of use
>for the price of one B & C.
>Can you expect to get 800+ hours out of the B&C unit?
Given that these alternators run for the lifetime of most
automobiles and go to the junkyard still working (120,000
mi @ 30 mph average is 4,000 hours), and based on B&C's
nearly ten year history of sales on these alternators,
I'll suggest that 800+ hours is a piece of cake.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VOR antenna location |
If your interested Comats CI-182 fits perfectly on the VS without having some
"hangout" like the models with the round base as shown in the RV-ator...I
recently sent some pictures of my installation and could have him email them
to you if your interested?? This ant. model is available through Chief
Aircraft or I assume any other comat dealer....you will have to special order
it as it is build for the Rockwell Commander Aircraft and won't be in stock.
Kurt, OKC, OK
6A Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Von Dane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
I have been reading the post about Glass Cockpits recently and
remembered seeing something in the KitPlanes December New Products
pages(page 10)... Its a company marketing software for your notebook
computer...
LaFave Engineering
710 E. 20th St., #B
Cheyenne, WY 82001
303.772.0942
davidlafave(at)hotmail.com
http://www.fly.simplenet.com
The URL appears to be a dead link. I haven't tried the e-mail or
phone number...
Bill Von Dane, Colorado
RV-8A N912V (res), waiting for wing kit
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
Paul,
Back in the 1940's Ranger engines did a study and found that air, more than
1/4 inch away from the fins, was virtually wasted. Thus the idea of keeping
the air close to the cylinders.
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Ah, yes...helicoils. I remember helicoils. I was 19 years old, a fresh E-3
in the Marine corps and lead tech on the Hawk Missile system High power
tracking radar. Some genius had applied 50 lbs of torque where 5 was called
for and stripped out a threaded hole in the radar. Gunny hands me this
little kit and says, you're in charge of maintenance on that thing...go fix
it. So I went out there, opened the kit, used the drill bit to drill the
hole, tapped it with the big thingy, ran the little wire doohickey in there
with that little twisty johnson and presto. In other words, without any
explanation of what it is, how it works or what to do...a 19 year old Marine
managed to figure it out...... Leave the A&P for other people who need
him. Helicoils are pretty basic, or at least that's how I remember it.
Bill
>It can be drilled out & use a Heli-coil, but I would go hunting an A&P if
>you go that way.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repacking Wheel Bearings |
Kyle, You can clean them in a 50-50 gasolene/kerosene. (Kerosene to reduce
flash point) Dry with compressed air and keep your fingerprints off the
rollers. Kerosene if used by itself and fingerprints can leave a corrosive
film. If you wish, you can do a final flush with something like MEK. Fill
the palm of one hand with greese. Hold the bearing with the other hand, one
finger through the hole with the large end pointing outward. Nead the
bearing in the grease until grease is forced out the small end. Rotate and
continue until grease is forced out and around each roller. When done,
leave a film of grease on all exposed rollers.
Tom Barnes -6 canopy.
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 12:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Repacking Wheel Bearings
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm convinced that I've gotten all sorts of crud in my wheel bearings
>(fiberglass dust, aluminum dust, etc).. How do I clean and repack these
>bearings?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Repacking Wheel Bearings |
Kyle,
You can clean bearings in solvent and repack by placing grease in one
hand and gently "smacking" the outside diameter of the clean bearing
into the palm of the hand holding the grease. Do not allow the
bearing to spin if you dry it using compressed air. It's fun to watch
the dry bearing spin but it will cause more wear than you'd ever think
possible.
Automotive stores sell inexpensive (about $20) bearing packers that
consist of two shallow plastic cones nested together with a threaded
rod through the center. You place the bearing between the cones, spin
the top cone down into contact with the bearing, and apply grease to
the "zerk fitting" in the top of the threaded rod. I still hand pack
to fill any voids missed by the tool, so if you're only packing four
bearings and you're going to get greasy anyway, you can probably skip
the tool.
By the way, bearings are not expensive and you may be able to find a
local source by cross-referencing the part numbers with your local
distributors. Look under "Bearings" in the yellow pages.
Bob
RV-8A empennage
>Listers,
>I'm convinced that I've gotten all sorts of crud in my wheel bearings
>(fiberglass dust, aluminum dust, etc).. How do I clean and repack
these
>bearings?
>Thanks,
>Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JHeadric(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
I just stuck a small cotter pin in the hole on each end of the baffle, spread
the legs open with the eye on the inside, then wired them together. Works
good.
Jim RV6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | GPS+laptop=Moving map display |
Hey list!
I attended a forum at OSH where Keith Peshak "quickly" showed how to
hook up a cheapie handheld GPS receiver to a laptop, loaded a DeLorme
map package in and basically wound up with what he termed a "$200 Moving
Map" (provided you already got a laptop) Just wondering if any of y'all
have done this recently, results, recommendations? I am looking at
handhelds for Santa to bring, and need to know if the "DB9F" data
connector on Magellans stuff is a "NEMA 0183" output per Peshaks
instructions. I have surfed until my toes are pruny and can't nail this
down. Any thoughts/experience on this appreciated!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark - 6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scat Tube Routing to Heat Muff. |
In a message dated 12/18/99 6:39:44 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
> Absolutely no smells at all in the cabin (unless I cut the cheese). You
are
> trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist IMO. Seems to me if you had
> oil
> leaking out of the cylinders you would want to fix it anyway.
GV,
Thanks for the clarification.
Regards,
Dale Wotring
RV6A
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
In a message dated 12/18/99 12:37:39 PM Central Standard Time,
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
<< I agree that the Sierra Flight Systems MFD is one of the neatest things
I have ever seen. However, I had a heart-to-heart talk with the Sierra
guys at Copperstate. They are going after the high-end market,
primarily Biz Jets, turbines, and high-dollar twin recips. Their
"standard" system for these applications will cost upwards of $100,000.
( Even before they have manufactured one unit, they have beaucoups
orders, so if they ever issue stock, I'm planning to buy a few shares.)
Anyway, their "stripped down" version for general aviation and
experimentals is still going to cost around $40,000. I'm not sure where
the figure of $29,000 came from, because $40,000 is what one of the
principals of the company told me personally.
>>
That figure came of the sierra website. Seems like there focus has changed
from the wording of the website. You have to remember that things always
change, well then again since this is avation things dont really change since
there are alot of airplanes out there older then I am still flying.
CHris WIlcox
F-1 Rocket YF-001
PS I am 28
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS+laptop=Moving map display |
Take a look at:
http://www.free-flt.com/index.html
and:
http://www.gpscables.com/catalog.html
and:
http://www.rmstek.com/
and:
http://www.cnde.iastate.edu/staff/swormley/maps/maps_waypoints.html
Start here:
http://joe.mehaffey.com/
One thing to consider, especially in at low wing. You will not be able to
read a consumer laptop if it is at all bright out. Neat technology though.
I might have to do it myself.....
Dave
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> Hey list!
>
> I attended a forum at OSH where Keith Peshak "quickly" showed how to
> hook up a cheapie handheld GPS receiver to a laptop, loaded a DeLorme
> map package in and basically wound up with what he termed a "$200 Moving
> Map" (provided you already got a laptop) Just wondering if any of y'all
> have done this recently, results, recommendations? I am looking at
> handhelds for Santa to bring, and need to know if the "DB9F" data
> connector on Magellans stuff is a "NEMA 0183" output per Peshaks
> instructions. I have surfed until my toes are pruny and can't nail this
> down. Any thoughts/experience on this appreciated!
>
> >From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - 6A wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | IO360 200hp Baffles |
Lister's
I am installing the Van's Baffle Kit on my IO360 A1A 200hp Lycoming.
FYI, I have found the kit very well put together & easy to understand, I
would recommend using it over scratch building a set. I have about 15 hours
into it & am almost finished.
There are 2 temp raisers that get installed to block airflow into the cowl
thus raising the temp of the engine.
With this particular engine others have had cooling issues in the extreme
heat. I am currently living in the Dallas area where it is quite hot in the
summer. Is it advisable to leave these out until I determine how effective
my oil cooler is?
I have mounted my oil cooler as in the Van's prototype on the baffle rear
left side.
Any advise out there?
Thanks.....Mark
Mark Steffensen
RV8A Cowling & Baffles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repacking Wheel Bearings |
--- KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I'm convinced that I've gotten all sorts of crud in
> my wheel bearings
> (fiberglass dust, aluminum dust, etc).. How do I
> clean and repack these
> bearings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
Kyle:
You should just be able to repack the bearings with
grease. The new grease should push the old grease out
and the "crud" out. If they are that bad (dirty),
clean them in solvent but do not dry them with
compressed air. If you do not have solvent, you can
use Diesel Fuel, Kerosene, or Mineral Spirits. What
ever you do, do NOT use GASOLINE. All three alternate
solvents that I mentioned are non-corrosive. I do
recommend that the bearings be repacked after cleaning
to prevent corrosion.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO360 200hp Baffles |
--- Mark Steffensen wrote:
> Lister's
>
> I am installing the Van's Baffle Kit on my IO360 A1A
> 200hp Lycoming.
>
> FYI, I have found the kit very well put together &
> easy to understand, I
> would recommend using it over scratch building a
> set. I have about 15 hours
> into it & am almost finished.
>
> There are 2 temp raisers that get installed to block
> airflow into the cowl
> thus raising the temp of the engine.
>
> With this particular engine others have had cooling
> issues in the extreme
> heat. I am currently living in the Dallas area where
> it is quite hot in the
> summer. Is it advisable to leave these out until I
> determine how effective
> my oil cooler is?
>
> I have mounted my oil cooler as in the Van's
> prototype on the baffle rear
> left side.
>
> Any advise out there?
>
> Thanks.....Mark
>
> Mark Steffensen
> RV8A Cowling & Baffles
Mark:
On an O-320 RV-6 (mine), the "optional" temp risers
are necessary in the HOT Southern California summers.
# 1 and 2 cylinder head temperatures are a "lot"
colder than 3 and 4 without the risers. I have 4 CHTs
and had to add the temp risers on the front cylinders
when test flying in 98 F temperatures. #1 and 2 are
still cooler but they do not have a large delta.
(Within 20 C with risers)
If you are not sure if you will need them, fabricate
them to install with threaded hardware so that they
can be installed or removed later.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | B & C Alternator |
As an Electrical Engineer and an FAA A & P, I need to
make the statement that the B & C alternator is the
finest alternator on the market at any price.
I only have 475 trouble free hours on my 60 A B&C
alternator. I would buy a B&C if I did not have it as
opposed to a rebuilt. (Even if the rebuilt one was
free.) The B&C is a NEW alternator and not one of
unknown hours. All the cheaper units that I have seen
are old used units that have been rebuilt. Compare
the cost of a B&C to a NEW automotive unit and see how
little the cost difference is. I would spent a little
extra money for something that is proven to work.
I know of 3 RVs that have had rebuilt automotive
alternator failures. One was away from home.
Spend the money on a GREAT product that has a proven
track record if you wish to fly. If you want to work
on airplanes, get the cheapest unit you can find. Me,
I want to FLY.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO360 200hp Baffles |
>
>Lister's
>
>I am installing the Van's Baffle Kit on my IO360 A1A 200hp Lycoming.
>
>There are 2 temp raisers that get installed to block airflow into the cowl
>thus raising the temp of the engine.
>
Mark,
The baffle instructions I had advised leaving off the blockers until you see
what your temps are. I think this is good advice.
The blockers tend to raise the cylinder head temperature on the front
cylinder and lower it on the back. You will not know what you really need
until you see what your temps are. In my case I ended up with a slightly
reduced size blocker on the right side only (O-360). The other side was
pretty even with no help.
I have found that the oil temperatures are not really related to the
blockers or CHTs in general. I always have to watch my CHTs and they can
get too high even in cool weather on short turnaround flights. On the other
hand I have never had excessively high oil temps, even in 110 degree weather
(cooler on front baffle in front of #2 cylinder).
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Peter Christensen |
Peter
I wanted to e-mail you about an RV concern, but your old e-mail is no longer
valid.
Could you send me your e-mail address please?
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Balancing & Fit |
I have thought I have assembled my elevators for the last time but that
probably isn't true. I have slight resistence now everything is tightened.
I have two questions about this.
1. Should the elevators be exactly nuetral statically balanced? Mine are
slightly nose heavy with the bolts loose and both elevators connected and
the pushrod disconnected. Gray area of the brain seems to recall slight
nose heavy is preferred. It is not heavy enough to move to the down
counterweigh position by gravity, just goes about 2/3's and stops.
2. Now when I fit the half thickness washers in the gaps adjacent the
bearings and tighten down, one bearing causes slight resistence, meaning the
elevator will stay where put. It doesn't take but nothing to move it. But
the center bearing that ties the two elevators together, clamps the two
elevators together. That is they now move as one unit because they are
clamped to the bearing center race. With the best fitting of half thickness
and regular washers to fill the center bearing gaps, both elevators together
now have the slight resistence. Does this need to be frictionless? If so,
i can only see cutting some SS shim stock to fill the gaps precisely. I've
fit it the best its going to get with thick & thin washers. I've never
heard of anyone using shim stock but see this as my next option if
frictionfree is what's required.
TIA,
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 final assembly
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Thanks...great Idea...I'll go with it..
----- Original Message -----
From: <JHeadric(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Baffle Question
>
> I just stuck a small cotter pin in the hole on each end of the baffle,
spread
> the legs open with the eye on the inside, then wired them together. Works
> good.
>
> Jim RV6A flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Hi Group:
I have been following the thread on RMI encoders and was wondering
something. Those that have them, are you using it as your primary altimeter,
or do you also have an old fashioned analog altimeter?
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Second main spar...first wing at the airport...snifff...they grow up so
fast!!
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes |
My suggestion to a new builder is to find the nearest EAA Chapter with a
tech counselor and join. The chapter may even have a lending tool library
for those one time use jobs. An EAA Chapter will also have several active
builders. Ours even has some RVs being built, some being flown, one being
Oshkosh Reserve Grand Champion. We even had an RV-8 builder from another
chapter join because we have 3 techs, a flight advisor, plus the library of
tools.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Fromm-JJ <fromm.jj(at)pg.com>
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling round holes
>
>Mark Schrimmer wrote:
>> I know this sounds like the ultimate stupid question, but I'm totally
>> serious--How do you drill nice round holes in aluminum?
>
>I'm a new builder too (-8 empennage) and I've had many of the same
questions
>I've seen posted here in the last few days. In fact, my first few building
December 13, 1999 - December 18, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hn