RV-Archive.digest.vol-ho
December 18, 1999 - December 23, 1999
>sessions were kind of discouraging, wondering about the dearth of
information on
>some of the bags in the kit, the unsightly rings left by the male dimple
die,
>the looseness of -3 rivets in a dimpled hole even after using a #41 drill
(all
>of which have been addressed by replies). I would like to have had an
>experienced builder I could have bounced these questions off of, but I
didn't
>have that luxury. I considered a post to this list but was too afraid. I
know
>most of the folks are very understanding and patient, but I think it's a
fair
>expectation that we newbies do our homework before asking basic questions.
But
>I've read the manual and watched the videos a zillion times, checked this
list
>daily and visited dozens of web sites and still had some of these same
>questions.
>
>I don't know if there's a better way. Maybe more detail in the
construction
>manual (although I realize there are limits to what you can practically do
>there). Or maybe a compiled list of these FAQ's in chronological order as
you
>could expect to encounter them in the building process, posted on something
like
>Jeremy's SourceRV page.
>
>Anyway, I'm grateful for those who were brave enough to ask the questions
and
>the understanding of all those who posted helpful answers.
>
>Jack Fromm
>Hunt Valley, MD
>Just finished first priming session.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick and Cindy <rcaviate(at)ne.infi.net> (by way of Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 |
)
| Subject: | Starter and alternator |
Rec'd Mark Landoll's little Japanese car starter and 35 amp alternator
today. I'll be letting you know how these items work out. Cost for
starter with bracket, and alternator with mounting bracket was about
$260.00, I'll have to dig up an alternator adjusting bracket somewhere.
Mark claims six pound weight savings. Check classifieds in SA if you
want to talk to him.
Rick N393RC
[The following images are now available. -Matt Dralle]
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/rcaviate(at)ne.infi.net/Image011.jpg
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Public/rcaviate(at)ne.infi.net/Image024.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>
> Hi Group:
>
> I have been following the thread on RMI encoders and was wondering
> something. Those that have them, are you using it as your primary altimeter,
> or do you also have an old fashioned analog altimeter?
Only altimeter:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel.html
Keep in mind that my plane is strictly for VFR. It will have a 2" backup
altimeter if ever adapted for IFR use.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SS flap tape |
In a message dated 12/18/99 10:32:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
randyl(at)pacifier.com writes:
<< Anyone know where one can obtain some stainless steel flap tape? Van's
doesn't carry it any more in favor of the UHMW tape. I kind of like the look
of the SS version. >>
I'll be happy to sell you the S/S stuff I bought from Van's (before I decided
to use the UHMW tape) for the same price I paid plus shipping.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: B & C Alternator |
Gary: Based on yours and Nuckolls input, I'm convinced.... my next alt will
be the B&C!
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS+laptop=Moving map display |
Mark Phillips wrote:
> I attended a forum at OSH where Keith Peshak "quickly" showed how to
> hook up a cheapie handheld GPS receiver to a laptop, loaded a DeLorme
> map package in and basically wound up with what he termed a "$200 Moving
> Map" (provided you already got a laptop) Just wondering if any of y'all
> have done this recently, results, recommendations? I am looking at
> handhelds for Santa to bring, and need to know if the "DB9F" data
> connector on Magellans stuff is a "NEMA 0183" output per Peshaks
> instructions.
Hi Mark,
I tried this a while back with my Magellan M3000 and an IBM Thinkpad
laptop (and my own software) with a TFT (i.e. quite good) colour LCD
screen.
Results were disappointing... the glare off the screen made it virtually
unreadable. The laptop was on the floor of a C172 -- almost all I could
see was reflections of the windows. On reflection (heh!), I think that
you need to be very careful about screen placement. Also, whilst playing
with this stuff, take another pilot along with you.
Yes, the output of Magellan (and probably every other GPS) is NMEA 0183.
This is *usually* compatible with the RS-232 port on the back of a
laptop. But not necessarily... the RS-232 uses IIRC +/- 12V to represent
zero or one, whereas NMEA uses 5V or 0V. In practice, many (99% ?)
RS-232 ports don't meet the standard and accept anything below +3V as
zero and anything above it as one. Probably it would also be safe to
send data to the GPS (for a GPS that accepts it) from an RS232 port too.
I suggest if you're in the market for a GPS that you look at the latest
Garmin models... they're reputed to be excellent, and you can download
waypoints, etc to them from a PC. I think this feature means that you
can avoid the added expense of a real "aviation" GPS.
Also check whether you need to remove the internal batteries to connect
to an external power supply system (I have to on my M3000). If you do,
it makes the GPS practically useless as a (non-certified) backup to
other nav systems in case of electrical failure.
If you need further recommendations or advice, the sci.geo.satellite-nav
newsgroup is full of people who know about this stuff (the kind of
people who own 4 or 5 GP_S's each!!!) Joe Mehaffey's site
http://joe.mehaffey.com/ seems to be the centre for up-to-date info,
reviews, etc.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Anyone have the pin-outs for the Bendix King KT-76A transponder& KY-97A
com?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GPS+laptop=Moving map display |
> Start here:
> http://joe.mehaffey.com/
>
> One thing to consider, especially in at low wing. You will not be able to
> read a consumer laptop if it is at all bright out. Neat technology though.
> I might have to do it myself.....
>
> Dave
>
Over here in Japan, we get to see all the newest technology a couple years
early. Some of the new "lap tops" are incredibly small and bright, although
they could no longer be used on a "lap." There are also programs to do 3-D
mapping and 'sky highway' navigation right off a laptop, while displaying
engine info too. I have also thought I could put a small $50 digital cameral
in the cowl opening of a tail dragger and display it on the LCD screen to
help with visibility on taxi.
But of course, Ive never met a PC I trusted. It gives new meaning to the
term "Computer Crash." :-)
Dave Leonard
6QB
Mazda 13B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 12/16/99 |
> -Mark Navratil
> RV-8A wings
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> 1st solo flight in Piper Warrior this morning at 11am!
>
Thanks for the info about glass gauges. I agree and feel that big things are
coming to GA. It is almost tempting to put off my project for 10 years until
it all filters down.. but I cant wait :-) I suppose I can always upgrade
later.
Congrats on your first solo!! I am quite certain that the rush I got during
my first solo is responsible for getting me into this mess of building my own
plane. Getting the private license and carrying your first passenger and
going on your own first long cross country as PIC are two more big rushes
that sank the hook for me. I imagine that all that will pale in comparison
to making the first flight in a plane that I built myself.
Dave Leonard
6QB
Mazda 13B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GPS+laptop=Moving map display |
> I am looking at
> handhelds for Santa to bring, and need to know if the "DB9F" data
> connector on Magellans stuff is a "NEMA 0183" output per Peshaks
> instructions. I have surfed until my toes are pruny and can't nail this
> down. Any thoughts/experience on this appreciated!
I have the Magellan Skystar Plus, but I dont have the manual with me here in
Japan. Im not sure what NEMA 0183 is, but the manual had about 15 pages
devoted to the serial output format. It seems pretty standard. Oh wait, I
went and turned the unit on the data I/O says "NEMA 0183" then a choice
between "V1.5 APA, V1.5 XTE, or V2.1 GSA". Hope that helps.
Dave Leonard
6QB
Mazda 13B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Brittain Crowell <britt(at)fortcollins.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
Is there anyone besides me on this list?
--
Britt
--
"Smiling is not just a facial expression, its a way of life."
Michael Brittain Crowell 9-1-98
--
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mglantz(at)uswest.net |
by albqpop1.albq.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Dec 1999 05":20:48.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
Yes there is -4 builders out there.Mine has been slow going ,just getting the
Fuse
skined.Looks like I'll tear down the used engine I got,it's going to have to wait,my
finish kit supposed to arrive before the new year!Is there life after ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
Has anyone been talking to Randy Simpson at Airtime Mfg (the
Titanium Tiedown man) lately? He answered my emailed
questions in a flash but hasn't responded to my efforts to place an
order.
Thanks for any help
Peter Bennett
RV6 Sydney
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Balancing & Fit |
Similar experience here. Scott at Van's said to fly it for a while and see
if it loosens up. Mike Seager said to spray some silicone lubricant on
the bearing and see if that loosens it. The spray seemed to help some.
Balance: Scott at Van's said neutral balance is important. I had mine
balanced neutral then I painted the plane, and the elevator was tail
heavy. I drilled a hole near the couterweight and poured fiberglass
glue in there to balance it. Easy, simple, and it worked.
Tim
On 18 Dec 99, at 16:25, Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
> I have thought I have assembled my elevators for the last time but that
> probably isn't true. I have slight resistence now everything is
> tightened. I have two questions about this.
>
> 1. Should the elevators be exactly nuetral statically balanced? Mine are
> slightly nose heavy with the bolts loose and both elevators connected and
> the pushrod disconnected. Gray area of the brain seems to recall slight
> nose heavy is preferred. It is not heavy enough to move to the down
> counterweigh position by gravity, just goes about 2/3's and stops.
>
> 2. Now when I fit the half thickness washers in the gaps adjacent the
> bearings and tighten down, one bearing causes slight resistence, meaning
> the elevator will stay where put. It doesn't take but nothing to move it.
> But the center bearing that ties the two elevators together, clamps the
> two elevators together. That is they now move as one unit because they
> are clamped to the bearing center race. With the best fitting of half
> thickness and regular washers to fill the center bearing gaps, both
> elevators together now have the slight resistence. Does this need to be
> frictionless? If so, i can only see cutting some SS shim stock to fill
> the gaps precisely. I've fit it the best its going to get with thick &
> thin washers. I've never heard of anyone using shim stock but see this as
> my next option if frictionfree is what's required.
>
> TIA,
>
> Rick Caldwell
> RV-6 #24187 final assembly
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
N47TD RV-6A, FAA Inspection Complete, Final preflight prep
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/jpi.html - No JPI stuff in my airplane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Randy Simpson |
>
>Has anyone been talking to Randy Simpson at Airtime Mfg (the
>Titanium Tiedown man) lately? He answered my emailed
>questions in a flash but hasn't responded to my efforts to place an
>order.
>
>Thanks for any help
>
>Peter Bennett
>RV6 Sydney
Peter, he called me about a week ago and was going to meet me at the
airport to see my finished -6. He didn't show. He said on the phone he
was moving or something. He was temporarily staying over at another
address. If I find out I will let you know.
Have a good day!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 EAA 1183 OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Miniature Push to Test Lights |
Hello everyone,
I came across a bunch of brand new miniature MS25041 Push-to-Test lights
w/ dimmers. They all have the green lenses & #327 (24 volt) bulbs. A 12
volt #330 bulb can be substituted. Spruce sells the same one for
$19.95./ea. as can be seen in their's catalog on p. 375, or pulled up on
their web page. I'm going to sell them for $25 for 3 which includes
shipping Priority Mail w/in the U.S. If anyone has an interest, pls.
contact me off-line.
Hope everyone has a safe & happy holiday season.
Blue Skies!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repacking Wheel Bearings |
No flame or disrespect intended but I once worked where parts were
consistently cleaned with gasoline untill it flashed over one day.
The parts cleaner later died from his burns. Don't know how much
kerosene will lower the flash point but gasoline fumes hug the floor
and are dangerous.
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
>
> Kyle, You can clean them in a 50-50 gasolene/kerosene. (Kerosene to reduce
> flash point) Dry with compressed air and keep your fingerprints off the
> rollers. Kerosene if used by itself and fingerprints can leave a corrosive
> film. If you wish, you can do a final flush with something like MEK. Fill
> the palm of one hand with greese. Hold the bearing with the other hand, one
> finger through the hole with the large end pointing outward. Nead the
> bearing in the grease until grease is forced out the small end. Rotate and
> continue until grease is forced out and around each roller. When done,
> leave a film of grease on all exposed rollers.
>
> Tom Barnes -6 canopy.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 12:06 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Repacking Wheel Bearings
>
> >
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >I'm convinced that I've gotten all sorts of crud in my wheel bearings
> >(fiberglass dust, aluminum dust, etc).. How do I clean and repack these
> >bearings?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Kyle Boatright
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SS flap tape |
>From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: SS flap tape
>Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 21:04:33 EST
>
>
>In a message dated 12/18/99 10:32:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>randyl(at)pacifier.com writes:
>
><< Anyone know where one can obtain some stainless steel flap tape? Van's
> doesn't carry it any more in favor of the UHMW tape. I kind of like the
>look
> of the SS version. >>
>
>I'll be happy to sell you the S/S stuff I bought from Van's (before I
>decided
>to use the UHMW tape) for the same price I paid plus shipping.
>
>-GV
I'm also going with the UHMW tape. I tried to apply the stainless tape to
one flap and gave up after narrowly averting slicing my fingers off. It
crinked, wrinkled, bubbled and looked like crap. Off it came and into the
trash it went. I now have enough for one more flap...which it will never
see.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
waiting on good first flight weather.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A QB landing gear weldments |
Guys, just starting fitting up the main gear weldments, WD821, and noticed
the NAS close tolerance bolts don't seem to want to slide through the 804
assembly holes. It appears the holes in the F804C's which are attached to
each side of the gold anodized F804F's, are not exactly lined up with the
corresponding holes in the F804F's.
I should mention that this situation exists after the WD821's are properly
aligned with the numerous AN 3 bolts which attach them to the F804
assembly. It's early, and maybe I don't have the LG weldments in exact
alignment, but right now it appears that I will have to ream the F804C's a
few thousandths to allow me to slide the NAS bolts through. Would
appreciate any input if any of you have run into the same problem.
Walt Shipley Knoxville, TN RV8A QB (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Repacking Wheel Bearings |
Gasoline is for use in an internal combustion engine not parts cleaning.
Kerosene or diesel fuel while safe does not dry film free. Stoddard solvent
if available is the best choice. Barsolve seems to be somewhat more available
from parts houses or oil distributors. It will dry film free and the flash
point is usually above 140deg.F. These later choices are what your A&P/IA
will use to wash your engine during annual or 100hr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SS flap tape |
Randy
JCWhitney catalog
www.jcwhitney.com
many widths & lengths
Wayne RV4 wing fairings
>
> Anyone know where one can obtain some stainless steel flap tape? Van's
> doesn't carry it any more in favor of the UHMW tape. I kind of like the look
> of the SS version.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
No sir...I'm lurking in here as well. The ground is indeed hard, :)
Bill
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael
>Brittain Crowell
>Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 11:55 PM
>To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99
>
>
>--> RV4-List message posted by: Michael Brittain Crowell
>
>
>Is there anyone besides me on this list?
>--
>Britt
>--
>"Smiling is not just a facial expression, its a way of life."
> Michael Brittain Crowell 9-1-98
>--
>"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
> Michael Collins (1987)
>
>
>NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Marsland" <marsman(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | GPS+laptop=Moving map display |
Mark,
I have the Delorme software on CD. I have the computer. Just wonder how
you get the moveing map display, and what the interface cable between the
GPS and the computer looks like?
Keith Marsland
RV6AQB Austin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Phillips
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 4:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: GPS+laptop=Moving map display
Hey list!
I attended a forum at OSH where Keith Peshak "quickly" showed how to
hook up a cheapie handheld GPS receiver to a laptop, loaded a DeLorme
map package in and basically wound up with what he termed a "$200 Moving
Map" (provided you already got a laptop) Just wondering if any of y'all
have done this recently, results, recommendations? I am looking at
handhelds for Santa to bring, and need to know if the "DB9F" data
connector on Magellans stuff is a "NEMA 0183" output per Peshaks
instructions. I have surfed until my toes are pruny and can't nail this
down. Any thoughts/experience on this appreciated!
>From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark - 6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
I have run the engine with no leaks, good mag checks, boost pump, engine
pump.
but could only get static 2000 rpm, bought prop tach and checked rpm at
2220 rpm, allowed cylinder head temp to heat to 290 deg. but no oil temp
appears, pulled mechanical probe and applied heat gun with industrial
thermometer to 250 deg. nothing shows on Isspro gage.
Is the mechanical tachometer (made in china) adjustable? I see no
provisions.
and the oil temp gage must be faulty.
any suggestions, I will contact Van,s Monday.
Wayne RV4 wing fairings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barnes <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repacking Wheel Bearings |
I stand corrected. After reviewing AC65-9A (A & P General handbook), I do
not see Gasolene being mentioned as a suitable cleaning solvent.
Tom Barnes
-----Original Message-----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sunday, December 19, 1999 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Repacking Wheel Bearings
>
>No flame or disrespect intended but I once worked where parts were
>consistently cleaned with gasoline untill it flashed over one day.
> The parts cleaner later died from his burns. Don't know how much
>kerosene will lower the flash point but gasoline fumes hug the floor
>and are dangerous.
>
>Tom Barnes wrote:
>>
>>
>> Kyle, You can clean them in a 50-50 gasolene/kerosene. (Kerosene to
reduce
>> flash point) Dry with compressed air and keep your fingerprints off the
>> rollers. Kerosene if used by itself and fingerprints can leave a
corrosive
>> film. If you wish, you can do a final flush with something like MEK.
Fill
>> the palm of one hand with greese. Hold the bearing with the other hand,
one
>> finger through the hole with the large end pointing outward. Nead the
>> bearing in the grease until grease is forced out the small end. Rotate
and
>> continue until grease is forced out and around each roller. When done,
>> leave a film of grease on all exposed rollers.
>>
>> Tom Barnes -6 canopy.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 12:06 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: Repacking Wheel Bearings
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >Listers,
>> >
>> >I'm convinced that I've gotten all sorts of crud in my wheel bearings
>> >(fiberglass dust, aluminum dust, etc).. How do I clean and repack these
>> >bearings?
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >
>> >Kyle Boatright
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repacking Wheel Bearings |
A paint thinner called mineral spirits works well and is in-expensive.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: TCN44257(at)aol.com <TCN44257(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, December 19, 1999 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Repacking Wheel Bearings
>
> Gasoline is for use in an internal combustion engine not parts cleaning.
>Kerosene or diesel fuel while safe does not dry film free. Stoddard solvent
>if available is the best choice. Barsolve seems to be somewhat more
available
>from parts houses or oil distributors. It will dry film free and the flash
>point is usually above 140deg.F. These later choices are what your A&P/IA
>will use to wash your engine during annual or 100hr.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
You can get them from a radio shop, if yours is not cooperative message me
back and I will see if I can get them out of our shop.
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 10:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pin-outs
>
>Anyone have the pin-outs for the Bendix King KT-76A transponder& KY-97A
>com?
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Hi folks
How long can I wait or should I wait between alodining and priming.
I've hear/read anything between, as soon as the alodine is (blow-,
heatgun-)dried, and, let it sit for a while (12h, 24h, several days),
alodine needs to 'mature' and finish hardening.
I cannot find hard specs although the (car) finish shop i buy my alodine
(dupont 226S) says dry it and prime.
Gert
p.s.
This all could be a mood point for now as the waterpipe between the
garage and the house burst and made beautifull icickles from my roof and
turned my deck into a scating ring :-(
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
I<< If they are so dang reliable, then why do the Widebodies still
>> contain both
>> the old and the new?? >>
Not so. Smith makes a glass backup instrument. Gives you airspeed,
altitude, attitude, mag heading as well as Loc and glide slope all in a 3
1/2" space. The only down side in the $30k price tag.
Alan Kritzman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
>Anyone have the pin-outs for the Bendix King KT-76A transponder& KY-97A
>com?
Believe it or not the 76A pinouts are in the archive.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
There is an HTML message purported from MessageMate. It has a worm. Here
are MessageMates comments from their site..
Important Notice
We have just learned that an email worm has been found circulating the web
referencing MessageMates.com. This worm file is in no way connected with
MessageMates.com.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A QB Aileron / Wing Mounting |
Avery sells several sizes of taper pin router bits. I used a 1/8" in a
dremel tool to cut those holes and it worked great. I'm sure the larger
sizes would work as well in a die grinder.
Harry Crosby (HCRV
@aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Fuel Cap Engraving Last Ones for the group deal |
Steve: I just received my caps and they look GREAT! Thanks.
Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> >Anyone have the pin-outs for the Bendix King KT-76A transponder& KY-97A
> >com?
>
> Believe it or not the 76A pinouts are in the archive.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
Randall,
Looked in the archives and found refernces to hooking encoders to the
KT-76A. Mentinoned connectors for the King but doesn't help determine
what's at each location of each pin on the connector. I may have not
used the correct search phrase to get the info you are refering to.
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
Hi All,
I'm very pleased and excited to announce that N565BW broke the surly bonds
of earth for the first time at 10:10 a.m. this morning from 02G. Although
I thought all along that I would be boasting and cocky I must say that I am
humbled to be included in such an exclusive group.
All on the flight went very well, except the 3 on a scale of 10 landing.
(My fault, not the planes)
RV-8A Serial Number 80555
Lycoming 0-320-D2A
Sensenich FP aluminum prop
1031 empty weight
Climb about 1500 @ 120 mph (#3 cylinder got hot and I had to level off a
little)
Stall clean at about 58 mph with no wing drop
I seem to have a heavy wing at slow speeds and high angles of attack (could
be me)
The flight was as uneventful as we could have hoped for.
We'll be updating the webpage later today with some photos if my wifes had
wasn't shaking too bad for them to turn out.
Bill Pagan
N565BW Flying!!!
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
Wayne,
Oil Temp probably won't come up on the ground, and if you didn't let the
temp bulb heat soak during your test it won't respond. Try boiling water
for several minutes and verify indicator temp. Of course it should be 212
+- if you are at sea level.
On the tach, I doubt that there is an external adjustment. I had the same
problem. Interrestingly enough the tach was pretty good at the RPM that it
was rated for (2400 RPM). I didn't find this acceptable and got a Mitchel
tach which comes with cal sheet and is +- 25RPM through most of the range.
Dan Morris
----- Original Message -----
From: WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 12:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bad gages
>
> I have run the engine with no leaks, good mag checks, boost pump, engine
> pump.
> but could only get static 2000 rpm, bought prop tach and checked rpm at
>
> 2220 rpm, allowed cylinder head temp to heat to 290 deg. but no oil temp
>
> appears, pulled mechanical probe and applied heat gun with industrial
> thermometer to 250 deg. nothing shows on Isspro gage.
>
> Is the mechanical tachometer (made in china) adjustable? I see no
> provisions.
> and the oil temp gage must be faulty.
>
> any suggestions, I will contact Van,s Monday.
>
> Wayne RV4 wing fairings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A QB landing gear weldments |
Line everything up with the AN-3's and get your round file out and bring
your lunch. You need to file the landing gear weldments to line them up
with the center section. This info is in the manual. It'll take a long
time and lots of filing but it is worth the effort to make sure it is
correct now!! (ask me how I know, or better yet don't)
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW Flying!!!
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Guys, just starting fitting up the main gear weldments, WD821, and noticed
>the NAS close tolerance bolts don't seem to want to slide through the 804
>assembly holes. It appears the holes in the F804C's which are attached to
>each side of the gold anodized F804F's, are not exactly lined up with the
>corresponding holes in the F804F's.
>
>I should mention that this situation exists after the WD821's are properly
>aligned with the numerous AN 3 bolts which attach them to the F804
>assembly. It's early, and maybe I don't have the LG weldments in exact
>alignment, but right now it appears that I will have to ream the F804C's a
>few thousandths to allow me to slide the NAS bolts through. Would
>appreciate any input if any of you have run into the same problem.
>
>Walt Shipley Knoxville, TN RV8A QB (Fuselage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Gert wrote:
>
>
> Hi folks
>
> How long can I wait or should I wait between alodining and priming.
>
***snipe***
I use AKZO epoxy primer and prime just minutes after alodining. I
towell off the piece and let air dry a few minutes. You can speed this
up by blowing with the compressor and a blow nozzle. Be sure to blow
the moisture out of holes, cracks, etc.. I would have to check again,
but my primer says to prime alodined pieces within 24 hours or the
chemical bonding which helps corrosion inhibiting doesn't work properly.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Walrath" <H_D_Walrath.HVIL(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS+laptop=Moving map display |
Delorme has a mapping package called Street Atlas that will
let you connect almost any GPS to the serial port of the laptop
and it will track your position constantly. Roads, highways and
streets (zoomed down) are all shown as our many airports, lakes
rivers and parks. It can provide a moving map of where you
are with readouts of groundspeed (in mph) and heading.
It doesn't show VOR's, airways, intersections, Class B's, etc.
To get all that the laptop needs to have Jeppsen FlightMap
loaded.
The latest version of Street Atlas is 7.0 and its under $50.
Howard Walrath
RV-6A N55HW Flying 145 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 4:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: GPS+laptop=Moving map display
>
> Hey list!
>
> I attended a forum at OSH where Keith Peshak "quickly" showed how to
> hook up a cheapie handheld GPS receiver to a laptop, loaded a DeLorme
> map package in and basically wound up with what he termed a "$200 Moving
> Map" (provided you already got a laptop) Just wondering if any of y'all
> have done this recently, results, recommendations? I am looking at
> handhelds for Santa to bring, and need to know if the "DB9F" data
> connector on Magellans stuff is a "NEMA 0183" output per Peshaks
> instructions. I have surfed until my toes are pruny and can't nail this
> down. Any thoughts/experience on this appreciated!
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - 6A wings
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Listers,
I'm happy to report that another RVer has finally attained the RV grin.
left the ground for the first time. With this very nervous pilot on
board, it performed its tasks just fine. It was a bit out of trim with left
wing heaviness and left rudder yaw; but, I couldn't complain too
much. After all, I built the darned thing; so, what did I expect out of
it? :-)
After what was a near perfect takeoff and landing, I still can't get
over this grin. My nerves have settled down, somewhat. I still feel
like I'm dreaming. After all, this is #22220. It took me seven years
and just under 4000 hours to get this far. No paint, interior side
panels, and carpet, yet. Yeah, I kept my times a bit more carefully
than some and am not afraid to admit that I'm slow. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (A real airplane, now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Bill Noel wrote:
>
>
> You can get them from a radio shop, if yours is not cooperative message me
> back and I will see if I can get them out of our shop.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 10:23 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Pin-outs
>
> >
> >Anyone have the pin-outs for the Bendix King KT-76A transponder& KY-97A
> >com?
> >
> >Jerry Calvert
> >Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuse
> >
Thanks Bill, If I can't get them from someone on the list I will try a
local radio shop.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm happy to report that another RVer has finally attained the RV grin.
> left the ground for the first time. With this very nervous pilot on
> board, it performed its tasks just fine. It was a bit out of trim with left
> wing heaviness and left rudder yaw; but, I couldn't complain too
> much. After all, I built the darned thing; so, what did I expect out of
> it? :-)
>
> After what was a near perfect takeoff and landing, I still can't get
> over this grin. My nerves have settled down, somewhat. I still feel
> like I'm dreaming. After all, this is #22220. It took me seven years
> and just under 4000 hours to get this far. No paint, interior side
> panels, and carpet, yet. Yeah, I kept my times a bit more carefully
> than some and am not afraid to admit that I'm slow. :-)
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (A real airplane, now)
>
Way to go Jim!! You hung in there for the big payoff!! Keep us posted
on performance.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
just curious,how long should you wait before you alodine after acid wash.
should you let the componet air dry after acid wash or alodine it while it
is still wet
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6BLDR" <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodining
>
> Gert wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi folks
> >
> > How long can I wait or should I wait between alodining and priming.
> >
> ***snipe***
>
> I use AKZO epoxy primer and prime just minutes after alodining. I
> towell off the piece and let air dry a few minutes. You can speed this
> up by blowing with the compressor and a blow nozzle. Be sure to blow
> the moisture out of holes, cracks, etc.. I would have to check again,
> but my primer says to prime alodined pieces within 24 hours or the
> chemical bonding which helps corrosion inhibiting doesn't work properly.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Way to go Jim, I know we aren't suppose to tie the list up with
congratulations
but let me be the first to congratulate you. I knew you could do it.
I'll end this now and get off the list so they can argue and flame some
more.
Jim Nolan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
>
>
>Hi All,
>I'm very pleased and excited to announce that N565BW broke the surly bonds
>of earth for the first time at 10:10 a.m. this morning from 02G. Although
>I thought all along that I would be boasting and cocky I must say that I am
>humbled to be included in such an exclusive group.
>
>All on the flight went very well, except the 3 on a scale of 10 landing.
>(My fault, not the planes)
>
>RV-8A Serial Number 80555
>Lycoming 0-320-D2A
>Sensenich FP aluminum prop
>1031 empty weight
>Climb about 1500 @ 120 mph (#3 cylinder got hot and I had to level off a
>little)
>Stall clean at about 58 mph with no wing drop
>I seem to have a heavy wing at slow speeds and high angles of attack (could
>be me)
>The flight was as uneventful as we could have hoped for.
>
>We'll be updating the webpage later today with some photos if my wifes had
>wasn't shaking too bad for them to turn out.
>
>
>Bill Pagan
>N565BW Flying!!!
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
Bill,
OUTSTANDING!!! You made it! First customer built -8A to fly? Well, I guess
that solves our "who's gonna be first to go" debate. Strangely enough, I was
out taxiing yesterday with everything ready to fly, but maturity and the
fear of my wife smacking the tar outta me kept me from just firewalling it
and going flying. Hmmph!
Enjoy your new toy, and keep checking six...cuz I'll be up there with
ya...most likely on Wednesday!
Congratulations!! I'm proud of ya!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
would be flying if not at work today!
________________________________________________________________________________
Having just heard that Van's is running over 20 weeks out on their c/s
Hartzell props, I've begun to think about the possibilities in that area. I
probably won't order it for a few months, but it's never too soon to begin
researching/planning.
I'm thinking that a three-blade prop would run somewhat smoother and quieter,
by virtue both of its balance and its reduced tip velocities. If this is
true, and please tell me if I'm totally off base here, what will it do to my
climb and cruise performance relative to the two-blade prop?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
Hey, I'm here!!
In the process of installing my engine (AeroSport 0-360). Looks of hookups
and other time consuming tasks. But its only been 9 years!!!
Doug Weiler,
Hudson, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: mglantz(at)uswest.net by albqpop1.albq.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Dec 1999
05 <":20:48.-0000"@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99
> --> RV4-List message posted by: mglantz(at)uswest.net by
>
> Yes there is -4 builders out there.Mine has been slow going ,just getting
the Fuse
> skined.Looks like I'll tear down the used engine I got,it's going to have
to wait,my
> finish kit supposed to arrive before the new year!Is there life after ?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HAROLD1339(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
I have always heard it's three for the show, and two for the go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Hanson" <slhanson(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | RV-Liost: Remote Compass |
I have a remote indicating magnetic compass, model AN-5730-1 from Pioneer
Instruments that is plus 25 deg. off to the West and neg. 20 deg. off to the
East and zero off at about 010 and 190. The installation was done before I
bought the plane and I would like to have better accuracy if possible. I
have read the company's manual (Form #105-163) without being able to
understand their explanation of correcting this problem. I have looked on
the internet for Pioneer Instruments a Division of Bendix Aviation Corp.
Bendix , NJ and not been able to locate them. I would like help either
locating technical support from this company, or finding someone who could
walk me through the procedures to get better readings. Things I can tell
about the system is that the dial on the panel has no adjustment screws and
the remote appears to just behind the bulkhead on the passenger side.
Gary Hanson
N 246RV RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Congrats Bill!!
> Does this make you the first customer to fly an 8A? You've made all
> of us
> 8ers proud!
>
I think Bill's RV-8A is # 4 or 5 to fly.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> just curious,how long should you wait before you alodine after acid
> wash.
> should you let the componet air dry after acid wash or alodine it
> while it
> is still wet
-
It should be done as soon as possible (no need to dry).
The acid wash is meant to remove the surface oxidation, and the
alodine/conversion coating stabilizes the surface to stop any further
oxidation.
So you want to do that immediately after the acid wash because the
oxidation process will began as soon as the surface is dry.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> >
> > How long can I wait or should I wait between alodining and
> priming.
> >
> ***snipe***
>
> I use AKZO epoxy primer and prime just minutes after alodining. I
> towell off the piece and let air dry a few minutes. You can speed
> this
> up by blowing with the compressor and a blow nozzle. Be sure to
> blow
> the moisture out of holes, cracks, etc.. I would have to check
> again,
> but my primer says to prime alodined pieces within 24 hours or the
> chemical bonding which helps corrosion inhibiting doesn't work
> properly.
>
-
No flame intended, but I would be veeeeery careful priming and or
painting this soon after using water on your parts.
Water trapped under a paint, or most specifically a primer coating is the
exact thing that causes fillaform (spelling?, can't remember how to spell
it but I know that you don't want to experience it) corrosion. The small
amount of moisture will be trapped and will travel like a worm underneath
your paint surface. It can take a few years to begin to show up but then
the only recourse is to totally strip the area, remove the corrosion, and
then refinish.
It is best to leave parts in a warm dry environment over night before
priming/painting, especially if you are working in a high humidity part
of the country.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Mark
I usually do a batch. I etch each part, rinse it thougroly and then hang
it up.
When I am done etching i will grab the first part and dunk it in alodine
or spray on alodine till it just starts to get light golden or light tan
i will then again rinse and hang to dry. When all parts are done, I will
tend to use the airnozle and blow of from top to bottom, making sure i
get all the holes on both sides.
By this time I will prep my paint area and mix the epoxy primer (ppg DP
48 LF)
I will then paint them and either lay the parts or hang the parts to
dry.
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
>
> just curious,how long should you wait before you alodine after acid wash.
> should you let the componet air dry after acid wash or alodine it while it
> is still wet
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RV6BLDR" <calverjl(at)flash.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 1:13 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodining
>
> >
> > Gert wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi folks
> > >
> > > How long can I wait or should I wait between alodining and priming.
> > >
> > ***snipe***
> >
> > I use AKZO epoxy primer and prime just minutes after alodining. I
> > towell off the piece and let air dry a few minutes. You can speed this
> > up by blowing with the compressor and a blow nozzle. Be sure to blow
> > the moisture out of holes, cracks, etc.. I would have to check again,
> > but my primer says to prime alodined pieces within 24 hours or the
> > chemical bonding which helps corrosion inhibiting doesn't work properly.
> >
> > Jerry Calvert
> > Edmond Ok -6
> >
> >
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SS flap tape |
> J.C.Whitney used to have it in their printed catalog, but I couldn't find
> it on their online catalog. I like the look of the stainless much better
> too, but the stuff is like working with a sticky razor blade four feet
> long. It also has the memory of a beer can and is just about as easy to
> damage. You'll see every crease, ripple, and bubble.
>
> - Mike
excellent summary, Mike. I CAREFULLY pulled that crap off my flaps when I
got the UHMW tape and was surprised at how much it seemed to weigh, and all
of that weight was aft (horrors!) of the CG.
The tape was already finely scratched and dull just from a few cycles of the
flaps in the garage. The good looks don't last. FWIW, I put the UHMW under
the top skin, not on the flap itself. The paint on that part of the flap is
scuffed, as you would expect, but doesn't look too bad, and only shows when
the flaps are down anyway.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Removing UHMW tape |
Anybody have any suggestions for the best way to get the UHMW tape off? I
used it in several places knowing I would take it off when it came time to
paint. That time is approaching and before I start I'm wondering if anyone
with experience pulling it off has any tips for how to make it go easier.
Thanks
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations, hope to join your elite group someday in the future.
Earl, still drilling and cutting on the 4
pagan wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
> I'm very pleased and excited to announce that N565BW broke the surly bonds
> of earth for the first time at 10:10 a.m. this morning from 02G. Although
> I thought all along that I would be boasting and cocky I must say that I am
> humbled to be included in such an exclusive group.
>
> All on the flight went very well, except the 3 on a scale of 10 landing.
> (My fault, not the planes)
>
> RV-8A Serial Number 80555
> Lycoming 0-320-D2A
> Sensenich FP aluminum prop
> 1031 empty weight
> Climb about 1500 @ 120 mph (#3 cylinder got hot and I had to level off a
> little)
> Stall clean at about 58 mph with no wing drop
> I seem to have a heavy wing at slow speeds and high angles of attack (could
> be me)
> The flight was as uneventful as we could have hoped for.
>
> We'll be updating the webpage later today with some photos if my wifes had
> wasn't shaking too bad for them to turn out.
>
> Bill Pagan
> N565BW Flying!!!
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing UHMW tape |
Try a heat gun
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> Anybody have any suggestions for the best way to get the UHMW tape off? I
> used it in several places knowing I would take it off when it came time to
> paint. That time is approaching and before I start I'm wondering if anyone
> with experience pulling it off has any tips for how to make it go easier.
>
> Thanks
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
Dumb Question? How do I bring up the rv4 specific list? Since I am
building a 4 I would like to be a participate if there are any out
there.
Earl putting in flap linkage on a RV4
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Bill Shook"
>
> No sir...I'm lurking in here as well. The ground is indeed hard, :)
>
> Bill
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv4-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael
> >Brittain Crowell
> >Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 11:55 PM
> >To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99
> >
> >
> >--> RV4-List message posted by: Michael Brittain Crowell
> >
> >
> >Is there anyone besides me on this list?
> >--
> >Britt
> >--
> >"Smiling is not just a facial expression, its a way of life."
> > Michael Brittain Crowell 9-1-98
> >--
> >"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
> > Michael Collins (1987)
> >
> >
> >NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-Liost: Remote Compass |
>
>
>I have a remote indicating magnetic compass, model AN-5730-1 from Pioneer
>Instruments that is plus 25 deg. off to the West and neg. 20 deg. off to the
>East and zero off at about 010 and 190. The installation was done before I
>bought the plane and I would like to have better accuracy if possible. I
>have read the company's manual (Form #105-163) without being able to
>understand their explanation of correcting this problem. I have looked on
>the internet for Pioneer Instruments a Division of Bendix Aviation Corp.
>Bendix , NJ and not been able to locate them. I would like help either
>locating technical support from this company, or finding someone who could
>walk me through the procedures to get better readings. Things I can tell
>about the system is that the dial on the panel has no adjustment screws and
>the remote appears to just behind the bulkhead on the passenger side.
>
>Gary Hanson
>N 246RV RV6A
Every sensor of earth's magnetic field needs externally
adjustable compensators to correct for both inherent
and local disturbances that contribute to instrument
error. Remote compasses were much more popular back in
the 40's and 50's . . . they were trickle down technology
from military aviation to general aviation when lots
of government surplus hardware hit the market.
Does the manual speak to taking your airplane to a compass
rose and doing a step-by-step procedure to bring readings
into reasonable agreement with actual magnetic heading?
You may be missing some vital maintenance info. . .
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
RV6A, N-180AM, first flight Dec. 16. Ryan Field, Tucson, AZ. New Lycoming
0-360-A1A, New Hartzell C/S prop. Empty weight 1075. Have done 3 flights
totalling 4.5 hours. Temps and pressure in the green. Highest CHT 375
degrees. Oil temp 190. 75% cruise power at 5,000' MSL with no wheel or
gear fairings TAS 180 MPH.
arzflyer(at)aol.com(Al Malecha)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SS flap tape Source |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
>
> In a message dated 12/18/99 10:32:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> randyl(at)pacifier.com writes:
>
> << Anyone know where one can obtain some stainless steel flap tape? Van's
> doesn't carry it any more in favor of the UHMW tape. I kind of like the
look
> of the SS version. >>
JCWhitney Auto supply house has Stainless steel tape in various sizes
(Widths)
Their Web page URL is http://www.jcwhitney.com/
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
What we've found with the bush planes is that the 3 blade propellers pull
better at gross weight but fall a little at top speed.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 12:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: c/s prop choice
>
> Having just heard that Van's is running over 20 weeks out on their c/s
> Hartzell props, I've begun to think about the possibilities in that area.
I
> probably won't order it for a few months, but it's never too soon to begin
> researching/planning.
>
> I'm thinking that a three-blade prop would run somewhat smoother and
quieter,
> by virtue both of its balance and its reduced tip velocities. If this is
> true, and please tell me if I'm totally off base here, what will it do to
my
> climb and cruise performance relative to the two-blade prop?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> working on the horiz. stab.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
In a message dated 12/19/99 7:04:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
BFiles(at)corecom.net writes:
> What we've found with the bush planes is that the 3 blade propellers pull
> better at gross weight but fall a little at top speed.
Would it then be correct to infer that takeoff acceleration and climb
performance would be better with the three-blade prop?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on stripped bolt |
Thanks to all who replied for your help and ideas.
Here's what finally worked, (an idea from a fellow member of EAA chapter
168.
I drilled into the face of the AN-365 nut in two places: first with #40,
then with #30. The drill was along the axis of the bolt, at the
intersection of the nut and bolt. This effectively destroyed the nut, which
fell off at the touch of the pliers.
Neither pretty nor elegant, but it was fairly easy and it worked.
George
----- Original Message -----
From: Sally and George <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 8:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Help on stripped bolt
>
> I need some advice from you skilled machinists/ mechanics out there.
>
> I have an AN-3 bolt, attaching a bracket to the wing center section, which
> is stripped.
> The nut will turn freely on the bolt but will neither tighten nor loosen.
> And, yes, the assembly does need to be removed.
>
> The bolt head is inaccessable, except to a very long wrench. The nut is
> exposed, but is in very close quarters: can't get a hacksaw or a bolt
cutter
> on it. I can get to it with a die grinder or a drill.
>
> What's the best way to try to get this thing out without destroying the
> structural integrity of my airplane?
>
> George Kilishek
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mglantz(at)uswest.net |
by albqpop1.albq.uswest.net with SMTP; 20 Dec 1999 00":26:16.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
Great to see this list come to life.I don't have any specific questions
yet,I'm sure plenty will pop up.I would enjoy hearing what other people have
put in their pannels.I like the 6 pack but it eats alot of space for a mostly
VFR a/c.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
>
> just curious,how long should you wait before you alodine after acid wash.
> should you let the componet air dry after acid wash or alodine it while it
> is still wet
I alodine imediately after rinseing off the acid wash. Don't dry it,
just drop in the alodine tank.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
I know we have them in our shop if you cannot find them local.
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Date: Sunday, December 19, 1999 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pin-outs
>
>Bill Noel wrote:
>>
>>
>> You can get them from a radio shop, if yours is not cooperative message
me
>> back and I will see if I can get them out of our shop.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 10:23 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: Pin-outs
>>
>> >
>> >Anyone have the pin-outs for the Bendix King KT-76A transponder& KY-97A
>> >com?
>> >
>> >Jerry Calvert
>> >Edmond Ok -6 wings & fuse
>> >
>Thanks Bill, If I can't get them from someone on the list I will try a
>local radio shop.
>
>Jerry Calvert
>Edmond Ok -6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Bill,
CONGRATULATIONS !! & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (working on canopy)
Niantic, CT
>From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight
>Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:03:19 -0500
>
>
>Hi All,
>I'm very pleased and excited to announce that N565BW broke the surly bonds
>of earth for the first time at 10:10 a.m. this morning from 02G. Although
>I thought all along that I would be boasting and cocky I must say that I am
>humbled to be included in such an exclusive group.
>
>All on the flight went very well, except the 3 on a scale of 10 landing.
>(My fault, not the planes)
>
>RV-8A Serial Number 80555
>Lycoming 0-320-D2A
>Sensenich FP aluminum prop
>1031 empty weight
>Climb about 1500 @ 120 mph (#3 cylinder got hot and I had to level off a
>little)
>Stall clean at about 58 mph with no wing drop
>I seem to have a heavy wing at slow speeds and high angles of attack (could
>be me)
>The flight was as uneventful as we could have hoped for.
>
>We'll be updating the webpage later today with some photos if my wifes had
>wasn't shaking too bad for them to turn out.
>
>
>Bill Pagan
>N565BW Flying!!!
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Jim,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (working on canopy)
Niantic, CT
>From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: First flight
>Date: Sun, 19 Dec 99 15:28:18 PST
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm happy to report that another RVer has finally attained the RV grin.
>left the ground for the first time. With this very nervous pilot on
>board, it performed its tasks just fine. It was a bit out of trim with
>left
>wing heaviness and left rudder yaw; but, I couldn't complain too
>much. After all, I built the darned thing; so, what did I expect out of
>it? :-)
>
>After what was a near perfect takeoff and landing, I still can't get
>over this grin. My nerves have settled down, somewhat. I still feel
>like I'm dreaming. After all, this is #22220. It took me seven years
>and just under 4000 hours to get this far. No paint, interior side
>panels, and carpet, yet. Yeah, I kept my times a bit more carefully
>than some and am not afraid to admit that I'm slow. :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (A real airplane, now)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing UHMW tape |
Have you tried a hair dryer???
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Date: Sunday, December 19, 1999 5:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Removing UHMW tape
>
>Anybody have any suggestions for the best way to get the UHMW tape off? I
>used it in several places knowing I would take it off when it came time to
>paint. That time is approaching and before I start I'm wondering if anyone
>with experience pulling it off has any tips for how to make it go easier.
>
>Thanks
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
Listers,
I've been reading the ongoing dialogue about various GPS models and the
use of laptops/palmheld moving maps. Here's my views, for what it's
worth. This is offered in the spirit of constructive emphasis on the
importantance of heads up, not to flame anyone.
I want as clean a cockpit as possible, so I like to eliminate as many
cords and devices as possible and still achieve information
availability. I have seen cockpits so cluttered with gadgets that I
wonder where the pilot's attention is directed, inside or out. I
believe my first job, after aircraft control, is to look outside to SEE
and AVOID. Therefore, I want to get my inside information quickly and
accurately so I can get my eyes outside again. I want a GPS which is
easy to use, clear, not light angle sensitive, and displays clearly all
the information needed to stay where I want to be and out of where I
don't want to be. Additionally, I fly several aircraft, so I want to
take it with me from cockpit to cockpit. Here's my solution.
I use a Garmin GPS195 with the holding cradle screwed onto a thin
kneeboard. All I need in the cockpit is a power recepticle to plug into
(or I can use the internal battery) and a place to put the remote
antenna. The Garmin 195 has all the features and databases you need, is
easy to use, is small enough to not be in the way, yet has a screen
which is easy to read in a wide range of light angles. Strapped to my
leg, it is out of the way and I can look down, quickly get the info I
need and be back outside again. My RV-3 and I have flown from Texas to
all four corners of the US and to Oshkosh numerous times and through and
around all types of airspace, in good bright sunshine weather and in
bad, low visibilty, rainy, low clouds environment. The Garmin 195 has
always given me info when I needed it in a quick look. I am not a
Garmin salesman, but I sure to like its compactness, clearness,
portability, information, and cost when compared to many alternatives.
So from someone who has been around for awhile in all kinds of
environments, there's my two cents. I know each of you have your own
solution, but please keep your head up and looking around, not down
playing with aids to navigation.
Stu McCurdy
RV-3, 74TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Bob Bohannan's Flying Tiger has a three-blade. It hold's the 3000
time-to-climb record. I'd like one, but don't think the budget could cope.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
[snip]
> Would it then be correct to infer that takeoff acceleration and climb
> performance would be better with the three-blade prop?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> working on the horiz. stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
Larry
Bruce Bohannan',s airplane needs 3 and possible 4 blades to
help absorb all of the power his engine has. Anyone care to
guess how much HP a souped up 0540 on Nitrous has? Its no
coincidence that Bruce's climb profile puts him within
gliding distance of his departure runway.
Tom
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> Bob Bohannan's Flying Tiger has a three-blade. It hold's the 3000
> time-to-climb record. I'd like one, but don't think the budget could cope.
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 tanks
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> [snip]
> > Would it then be correct to infer that takeoff acceleration and climb
> > performance would be better with the three-blade prop?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Ken Balch
> > Ashland, MA
> > RV-8 #81125
> > working on the horiz. stab.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
RVers,
I have to pause for a moment to offer a plug or two. I was in the
Dallas/FtWorth area this week to do a little family visit, and I felt compelled
to sneak away for a while to see where a good number of my dollars have gone.
I
drove over to Hicks Airfield to meet the good folks at Avery's. After I found
the place (I'm useless without a moving map), I was given a tour of the shop and
allowed to browse (TIP: leave the credit cards in the car). I was made to feel
at home by Ken Avery, who is just a great guy. After that, I wandered across
the street (taxi way) to meet George Orndorff, though after all the videos I
felt as if I knew him. For those who have not had the pleasure, George is as
nice and genuine as he seems on your screen. I highly recommend that you spend
money with these people!
This is not meant to slight any other person that is a supplier, or has a
service to offer to RV builders. I have spent quite a bit with many other
suppliers, as well. But by all means, when in the DFW area.....
Amazing.... virtually every person that I've come in contact with while
building have had the highest quality in character. We need to get more people
building and flying RVs.
Now back to the shop.
Keith Hughes
Parker, Co.
RV-6 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
What we have found is that the take off and climb are better at high weights
with the 3 bladed prop. With the planes empty they are pretty close to the
same.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: c/s prop choice
>
> In a message dated 12/19/99 7:04:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> BFiles(at)corecom.net writes:
>
> > What we've found with the bush planes is that the 3 blade propellers
pull
> > better at gross weight but fall a little at top speed.
>
> Would it then be correct to infer that takeoff acceleration and climb
> performance would be better with the three-blade prop?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> working on the horiz. stab.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
Bruce is claiming 400 HP. I know that Sean Tuckers Pitts is at 562 HP.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: c/s prop choice
>
> Larry
> Bruce Bohannan',s airplane needs 3 and possible 4 blades to
> help absorb all of the power his engine has. Anyone care to
> guess how much HP a souped up 0540 on Nitrous has? Its no
> coincidence that Bruce's climb profile puts him within
> gliding distance of his departure runway.
> Tom
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> >
> > Bob Bohannan's Flying Tiger has a three-blade. It hold's the 3000
> > time-to-climb record. I'd like one, but don't think the budget could
cope.
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 tanks
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> > [snip]
> > > Would it then be correct to infer that takeoff acceleration and climb
> > > performance would be better with the three-blade prop?
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Ken Balch
> > > Ashland, MA
> > > RV-8 #81125
> > > working on the horiz. stab.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
Thats before he starts dialing in the nitrous.
Tom
Bryan E. Files wrote:
>
> Bruce is claiming 400 HP. I know that Sean Tuckers Pitts is at 562 HP.
> **** Bryan E. Files ****
> Ever Fly Maintenance
> Palmer, Alaska
> A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 6:30 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: c/s prop choice
>
>
> >
> > Larry
> > Bruce Bohannan',s airplane needs 3 and possible 4 blades to
> > help absorb all of the power his engine has. Anyone care to
> > guess how much HP a souped up 0540 on Nitrous has? Its no
> > coincidence that Bruce's climb profile puts him within
> > gliding distance of his departure runway.
> > Tom
> >
> > Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Bob Bohannan's Flying Tiger has a three-blade. It hold's the 3000
> > > time-to-climb record. I'd like one, but don't think the budget could
> cope.
> > >
> > > Larry Bowen
> > > RV-8 tanks
> > > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > > http://BowenAero.com
> > >
> > > [snip]
> > > > Would it then be correct to infer that takeoff acceleration and climb
> > > > performance would be better with the three-blade prop?
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Ken Balch
> > > > Ashland, MA
> > > > RV-8 #81125
> > > > working on the horiz. stab.
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
In a message dated 12/19/1999 3:04:24 PM Central Standard Time,
Kbalch1(at)aol.com writes:
<<
Having just heard that Van's is running over 20 weeks out on their c/s
Hartzell props, I've begun to think about the possibilities in that area. I
probably won't order it for a few months, but it's never too soon to begin
researching/planning.
I'm thinking that a three-blade prop would run somewhat smoother and
quieter,
by virtue both of its balance and its reduced tip velocities. If this is
true, and please tell me if I'm totally off base here, what will it do to my
climb and cruise performance relative to the two-blade prop?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab.
>>
After having talked with Mark Fredricks at Team Rocket I am going to use a 3
blade hartzel on my rocket. Mark did great work on Bruces plane. It has the
record after all. Also in there testing it does seem faster or as fast in all
aspects compared the the 2 blade hartzel Mark has on his rocket. Its a
little more but if it has better performance and better looks I think its
worth the cost.
I also looked at whirlwind and MT. Don't know anything about whirlwind good
or bad in talking with people so i decided against them and I have heard the
MT's require more maintance, so the hartzel 3 blade it is.
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)aol.com
Full-name: CW9371
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 00:46:41 EST
Subject: Re: RV-List: c/s prop choice
Also is checking on Sean tuckers plane. It isonly 380 hp. The quote below
is ofSeans web page and you can learn all about his aircraft on it. Here is
the link Click
here: Sean D. Tucker Power Aerobatics--10-10-220 Power Aerobatic Team....
Airshow Performer, Airshows, Sean D. Tucker Sc
The magicians at Lycon are able to take a stock Lycoming AEIO-540-D4B5 engine
that normally produces 260 horsepower and coax 380+ horsepower from it.
Not quite 500 hp. Anyways I thought this might be of interest to some people
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Are the aileron bellcranks prefab or do you have to make
them with the 6 QB kit?
Thanks
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
> I'm thinking that a three-blade prop would run somewhat smoother and
quieter,
> by virtue both of its balance and its reduced tip velocities. If this is
> true, and please tell me if I'm totally off base here, what will it do to
my
> climb and cruise performance relative to the two-blade prop?
If you're talking about a 3-bladed Hartzell, then unless you're really into
the "experimental" thing, you're going to want to use a prop that's
certified for the engine. Go to http://av-info.faa.gov/tc/tcd5prop.htm to
find out what props have been tested on what engines and whether there are
any limitations or not.
Also Hartzell has a very nice educational brochure all about choosing the
right prop for your experimental.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
PS. Have you checked the PRICES of those things...!!! 8-0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Apology accepted |
RV-List message posted by: CTonnini(at)aol.com
regarding my comment the other day about the rond holes. i'm sorry but i
placed that as a joke.
Claudio,
Since I'm the one who asked the round hole question, let me just say thanks
for the apology and happy holidays!
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
RV-9A Tail kit
________________________________________________________________________________
They come pre-formed. You have to drill and then rivet them to the flange
bearing. Then drill for the rod bearings.
Cash RV6QB
In a message dated 12/20/99 6:10:37 AM GMT Standard Time,
bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
Are the aileron bellcranks prefab or do you have to make
them with the 6 QB kit?
Thanks
Tom >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
wish I could have been there. congratulations. Nice looking plane
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Congratulations, two-first flights man am I jealous. N468TC painted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Jim, congratuations on your first flight. I'll bet it was great. Don't wory
about slow. By the time I fly I expect to see 4000+ hours in my builders log
also...Congratulations again and give us the performance specs as you
continue your flight testing.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (fuselage)
Olcott, NY
> >From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list
> >Subject: RV-List: First flight
> >Date: Sun, 19 Dec 99 15:28:18 PST
> >
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >I'm happy to report that another RVer has finally attained the RV grin.
> >left the ground for the first time. With this very nervous pilot on
> >board, it performed its tasks just fine. It was a bit out of trim with
> >left
> >wing heaviness and left rudder yaw; but, I couldn't complain too
> >much. After all, I built the darned thing; so, what did I expect out of
> >it? :-)
> >
> >After what was a near perfect takeoff and landing, I still can't get
> >over this grin. My nerves have settled down, somewhat. I still feel
> >like I'm dreaming. After all, this is #22220. It took me seven years
> >and just under 4000 hours to get this far. No paint, interior side
> >panels, and carpet, yet. Yeah, I kept my times a bit more carefully
> >than some and am not afraid to admit that I'm slow. :-)
> >
> >Jim Sears in KY
> >RV-6A N198JS (A real airplane, now)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
I am interested in hearing experiences from people in Florida, or like
climate, who have elected not to paint their aircraft. I was down in
Kissimmee last week giving an employee a half hour of T-6 time for christmas
and was very interested to see the B-25's etc being restored down there.
There he was, MR Rivet man bucking away on a piece of history as a soon to
be amatuer bucker watched (me). I noticed a distinct LACK of paint on
anything and knowing that THAT particular plane is plenty old, I concluded
that paint is an optional weight penalty. I realize the empennage stage is
a bit early to worry about it, or is it? If I don't need paint on the
exterior, then I don't need priming, yada yada yada on the interior skins.
I prefer the look of plain aluminum anyway (hey if it looks like a mustang,
let it look LIKE a mustang) with painted nose and tips. However, I don't
prefer the look of corrosion induced structural failure (tongue in cheek).
In other words, if this B-25 has spent more years than I've been breathing
enduring the weather and the tiny bit of discoloration I saw is all that
happens....there will be no paint on my plane. BUT, if there is a metal
difference or other reason the RV would self destruct without paint in
Florida.....I'd sure like to know.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS and Laptops |
My only addition to Stuart's comment is that Garmin has a new, color
"upgrade" from the 195. I believe it is the "295". The color screen is
phenomenally bright, and worth the extra bucks. Don't have mine yet, but I
hear Santa's planning a visit.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net>
Date: Sunday, December 19, 1999 7:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: GPS and Laptops
>
>Listers,
>
>I've been reading the ongoing dialogue about various GPS models and the
>use of laptops/palmheld moving maps. Here's my views, for what it's
>worth. This is offered in the spirit of constructive emphasis on the
>importantance of heads up, not to flame anyone.
>
>I want as clean a cockpit as possible, so I like to eliminate as many
>cords and devices as possible and still achieve information
>availability. I have seen cockpits so cluttered with gadgets that I
>wonder where the pilot's attention is directed, inside or out. I
>believe my first job, after aircraft control, is to look outside to SEE
>and AVOID. Therefore, I want to get my inside information quickly and
>accurately so I can get my eyes outside again. I want a GPS which is
>easy to use, clear, not light angle sensitive, and displays clearly all
>the information needed to stay where I want to be and out of where I
>don't want to be. Additionally, I fly several aircraft, so I want to
>take it with me from cockpit to cockpit. Here's my solution.
>
>I use a Garmin GPS195 with the holding cradle screwed onto a thin
>kneeboard. All I need in the cockpit is a power recepticle to plug into
>(or I can use the internal battery) and a place to put the remote
>antenna. The Garmin 195 has all the features and databases you need, is
>easy to use, is small enough to not be in the way, yet has a screen
>which is easy to read in a wide range of light angles. Strapped to my
>leg, it is out of the way and I can look down, quickly get the info I
>need and be back outside again. My RV-3 and I have flown from Texas to
>all four corners of the US and to Oshkosh numerous times and through and
>around all types of airspace, in good bright sunshine weather and in
>bad, low visibilty, rainy, low clouds environment. The Garmin 195 has
>always given me info when I needed it in a quick look. I am not a
>Garmin salesman, but I sure to like its compactness, clearness,
>portability, information, and cost when compared to many alternatives.
>So from someone who has been around for awhile in all kinds of
>environments, there's my two cents. I know each of you have your own
>solution, but please keep your head up and looking around, not down
>playing with aids to navigation.
>
>Stu McCurdy
>RV-3, 74TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
In a message dated 12/20/99 1:58:00 AM Eastern Standard Time,
randallh(at)home.com writes:
> Also Hartzell has a very nice educational brochure all about choosing the
> right prop for your experimental.
Does anyone have Hartzell's URL?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
I am also lurking here, just compleating and RV-8 empanage to mount on the 4
fuse. The original empanage that I purchased completed turned out to be
fataly flawed. The 8 empanage is a bit larger but all eht "experts" I
checked with couldn't come up with any drop dead reasons and it fits
perfectly. I am going to use a 180 and a C/S prop so the weight issue should
be manageable. I am also very interested in what others are doing with their
panel -- not much space there.
Ray Grenier
Nashua, NH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
Generally "Disc area " (kinda like wing area) is what you want for climb
performance. A propeller with longer length (two blade) is usually the
better way to go. As it was said before the 3 blade prop is there to absorb
all the horse power of a IO-540 etc...
Now prop design has something to do with it ,cord width, airfoil shape, but
everything being equal the two blade provides more performance.
C.H.
----------
> From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: c/s prop choice
> Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 12:43 AM
>
>
> > I'm thinking that a three-blade prop would run somewhat smoother and
> quieter,
> > by virtue both of its balance and its reduced tip velocities. If this
is
> > true, and please tell me if I'm totally off base here, what will it do
to
> my
> > climb and cruise performance relative to the two-blade prop?
>
> If you're talking about a 3-bladed Hartzell, then unless you're really
into
> the "experimental" thing, you're going to want to use a prop that's
> certified for the engine. Go to http://av-info.faa.gov/tc/tcd5prop.htm
to
> find out what props have been tested on what engines and whether there
are
> any limitations or not.
>
> Also Hartzell has a very nice educational brochure all about choosing the
> right prop for your experimental.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
> PS. Have you checked the PRICES of those things...!!! 8-0
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: source for alternators |
Mark Landroll who makes the harmonic ballancer, starter mounts for Datsun/Toyota
starters, supplies aute new starters, rebuilt starters, new & rebuilt
alternaters, brackets, larger pulleys & regulators......all very price
competitive.....
everyone in our chapter uses his products sans his alternator bracket.....use
Vans...
rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com on 12/17/99 09:06:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: source for alternators
I just deleted the internally regulated alternator from my 0-360 on order
from Aerosport in order to use a separate voltage reg, etc., etc. Bart
deducts $225 to leave off the 40 amp alternator. Of course, a replacement B
& C 40 amp without internal regulator from Spruce is $390, so the financial
penalty here is obvious. I just decided the simplicity was worth the extra
cost. My question is, does anyone know of a better (i.e., cheaper) source
for B & C alternators? I'm also in the market for a small auxillary
alternator.
Thanks,
Jerry Carter
8A Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Funk" <efunk(at)stny.lrun.com> |
I also am lurking wondering if the RV4 list will take off. Here's a
question from a new builder, but one who is gaining experience (making
mistakes).
I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by reading the "18 Years of the
RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber should be applied where the
stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. The question is where do I obtain RTV
Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is it
special ordered, and if so from whom ?
Ed Funk
Corning, NY
RV4 Tail Feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Unpainted RV's |
bill
i just made a visit to wiuamama air salvage yard this week. it was my first
trip to a airplane junkyard. what i learned was truly amazing. 1st. ( all
this is my opion, ) i looked into the guts of many aircraft,this is my
obsevations. pipers corrode quite a bit on the main spars, i saw one that
was about 20 years old , i could punch my finger through the spar, no
kidding, i even have witnesses. in fact every aircraft i looked into had
corrosion on the insides. i'm not sure how cessna, piper, etc. treated these
skins, but it didn't work. visually they all looked untreated. 2nd, quality
of construction. i'm glad i decided to build an rv, better design, stronger
built, and i'm doing a better job at construction than what i've seen in the
yard. eurocoupe has the most impressive spar design, very strong, non
corroded,. all steel parts looked bad in all aircraft, including platenuts.
is there a source for stainless steel platenuts.
my suggestion is primer eveything well!!!!!!!!
scott
tampa
can't get over this dang flu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
>
>I have seen many tied with safety wire, the original rods, and left open on
>several production aircraft with no problems. On thing to be careful of
>here is that what ever you use make sure that you check that it doesn't hit
>the oil return tubes. I have seen a lot of them wear thru the returns tubes
>and it makes an oily mess. I am going to leave mine off if I ever get to
>that point.
Another opinion:
Norman Way who has several hundred hours on a Pitts S1 he built ten years
ago, put welding rods threaded and nuts on his Lycoming. He bent them to
avoid chewing on other parts.
I liked the wire and cotters idea but with baffles in place, these were
very hard to install and will surely cut thru the return lines. Off they come.
On the drawings with the baffle kit appears the word 'optional' but I
suppose that to mean wire or steel rod.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
>From: "Ed Funk" <efunk(at)stny.lrun.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Also Lurking
>Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 10:36:47 -0500
>
>
>I also am lurking wondering if the RV4 list will take off. Here's a
>question from a new builder, but one who is gaining experience (making
>mistakes).
>
>I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by reading the "18 Years of the
>RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber should be applied where the
>stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. The question is where do I obtain
>RTV
>Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is it
>special ordered, and if so from whom ?
>
>Ed Funk
>Corning, NY
>RV4 Tail Feathers
Ed,
There's nothing special about the RTV. Dow Corning 739 Silicone sealant
works fine. You can get it at home supply stores. Most any brand of
silicone sealant will do the job.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
ready to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Marsland" <marsman(at)flash.net> |
CONGRATULATIONS & INCREMENT THE COMPLETIONS BY 1. WELL DONE!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: First flight
Jim,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (working on canopy)
Niantic, CT
>From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: First flight
>Date: Sun, 19 Dec 99 15:28:18 PST
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm happy to report that another RVer has finally attained the RV grin.
>left the ground for the first time. With this very nervous pilot on
>board, it performed its tasks just fine. It was a bit out of trim with
>left
>wing heaviness and left rudder yaw; but, I couldn't complain too
>much. After all, I built the darned thing; so, what did I expect out of
>it? :-)
>
>After what was a near perfect takeoff and landing, I still can't get
>over this grin. My nerves have settled down, somewhat. I still feel
>like I'm dreaming. After all, this is #22220. It took me seven years
>and just under 4000 hours to get this far. No paint, interior side
>panels, and carpet, yet. Yeah, I kept my times a bit more carefully
>than some and am not afraid to admit that I'm slow. :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (A real airplane, now)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
Aluminum panels are cut to shape and bent. You polish, drill, assemble,
rivet.
hal
>
>Are the aileron bellcranks prefab or do you have to make
>them with the 6 QB kit?
>Thanks
>Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/18/99 5:14:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, jorear(at)mari.net
writes:
<< Hi Group:
I have been following the thread on RMI encoders and was wondering
something. Those that have them, are you using it as your primary altimeter,
or do you also have an old fashioned analog altimeter? >>
Hi All,
I have an altimeter and airspeed indicator in addition to the RMI
micro-encoder. RMI recommends replacing the VSI with their unit.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Marsland" <marsman(at)flash.net> |
Tom,
On the RV6AQB the bellcranks are preformed ie preshaped. However, the
builder must construct them by assembling drilling, and riveting the parts
together.
Regards,
Keith Marsland
RV6AQB Austin, Tx
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Thomas McIntyre
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 11:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 QB
Are the aileron bellcranks prefab or do you have to make
them with the 6 QB kit?
Thanks
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS and Laptops |
> My only addition to Stuart's comment is that Garmin has a new, color
> "upgrade" from the 195. I believe it is the "295". The color screen is
> phenomenally bright, and worth the extra bucks. Don't have mine yet, but
I
> hear Santa's planning a visit.
> Rick Jory
> Highlands Ranch, CO
I was drueling of the new 295 at OSH. Then I checked the specs and realized
that it will only get 2 hrs on a set of batteries. Should have known that
the active matrix color screen would suck power. My take is that this unit,
while total beautiful, is only useful where you have ship's power available.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, mounting wheelpants
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
Hardware store stuff ....
efunk(at)stny.lrun.com on 12/20/99 10:36:47 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Also Lurking
I also am lurking wondering if the RV4 list will take off. Here's a
question from a new builder, but one who is gaining experience (making
mistakes).
I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by reading the "18 Years of the
RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber should be applied where the
stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. The question is where do I obtain RTV
Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is it
special ordered, and if so from whom ?
Ed Funk
Corning, NY
RV4 Tail Feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unpainted RV's |
Salt air does that to aluminum. Here in the Midwest, it isn't a problem.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Unpainted RV's
>
>bill
>i just made a visit to wiuamama air salvage yard this week. it was my first
>trip to a airplane junkyard. what i learned was truly amazing. 1st. ( all
>this is my opion, ) i looked into the guts of many aircraft,this is my
>obsevations. pipers corrode quite a bit on the main spars, i saw one that
>was about 20 years old , i could punch my finger through the spar, no
>kidding, i even have witnesses. in fact every aircraft i looked into had
>corrosion on the insides. i'm not sure how cessna, piper, etc. treated
these
>skins, but it didn't work. visually they all looked untreated. 2nd,
quality
>of construction. i'm glad i decided to build an rv, better design, stronger
>built, and i'm doing a better job at construction than what i've seen in
the
>yard. eurocoupe has the most impressive spar design, very strong, non
>corroded,. all steel parts looked bad in all aircraft, including
platenuts.
>is there a source for stainless steel platenuts.
>my suggestion is primer eveything well!!!!!!!!
>scott
>tampa
>can't get over this dang flu
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
> Ed,
>
> There's nothing special about the RTV. Dow Corning 739 Silicone
> sealant
> works fine. You can get it at home supply stores. Most any brand of
> silicone sealant will do the job.
Ummmm.... check the archives on this, guys - been a while since my emp.
but IIRC there are some sealants which have bad stuff in them for
aluminum. Something to check....
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
Autozone has it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Funk <efunk(at)stny.lrun.com>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 9:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Also Lurking
> The question is where do I obtain RTV
> Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is
it
> special ordered, and if so from whom?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
Michael;
I read your message on the pro-seal stuff dp190; I am no sure
what is this use for.. is to bond the fiver glass to the canopy,
instead of the regular resin, that is commonly used..?
Thank you for your comments and explanation, also what would be
the cost?
Bert
rv6aqb
Do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWINGSPAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
In a message dated 12/20/99 11:16:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
efunk(at)stny.lrun.com writes:
<< The question is where do I obtain RTV
Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? >>
ed,
go to any auto parts store and get the blue rtv silicone gasket sealer. imho
i would only do the rudder...not the elevators. if you use this on the
elevators you may not be able to squeeze the trailing edges for final
adjustment when flying...ask other builders. good luck in your project.
rich greener
rv-8
wings (ailerons/flaps complete)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
>>Are the aileron bellcranks prefab or do you have to make
>>them with the 6 QB kit?
You have to put the bellcranks together. The pieces are pre-bent though.
All you have to do is rivet them together with the bearing inside.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A QB
Dallas, TX
(The RV Capital of the World!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
>
> Great to see this list come to life.I don't have any specific questions
> yet,I'm sure plenty will pop up.I would enjoy hearing what other people have
> put in their pannels.I like the 6 pack but it eats alot of space for a mostly
> VFR a/c.
1. Attitude & directional gyro's
2. Apollo gps com GX65
3. Narco Txponder
4. Airspeed
5. Altimeter
6. Mech. Tach. (returned to Vans for replacement, 220 rpm off @2000 RPM.)
7. Vertical speed
8. EI OAT, CHT, EGT.
9. Isspro Fuel L & R, Amps, Volts, Oil Press, Oil Temp.
(Oil Temp being replaced by Vans)
10. Uma Fuel press, & Suction.
11. Master switch & Ignition switch.
12. Primer push button.
13. Dimmer pot.
12. Boost pump & Nav lights & strobe toggle breakers.
13. 7 circuit breakers.
I could E-mail an Autocad dwg file or fax a copy, just let me
know.
Wayne RV4 wing fairings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RST Audio Panel for sale |
Bill:
The stainlessteel tape, is available thru J.C whitney; I just got my
roll a few days ago. Applying it, yes is an art to do it; not really
I got the instructions, on one of the Videos....line it up, remove a little
of the backing at the time, set it gently, then another little part.. and
so on. You cannot set it, all at once...
Bert Murillo
Do No archive
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: c/s prop choice |
In a message dated 12/20/1999 7:58:10 AM Central Standard Time,
Kbalch1(at)aol.com writes:
<< Does anyone have Hartzell's URL?
Regards,
Ken Balch >>
Welcome to Hartzell Propeller
http://www.hartzellprop.com/
Chris WIlcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SS flap tape |
Randy :
I got mine from J.C. whitney, thru their catalog
Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Also Lurking |
Ed you will probably get all sorts of info on this, some say you need
RTV without etching acid but Vans says you need the etching to
provide adhesion for the RTV. I bought mine at the local auto
parts store, GE RTV in a tube.
Wayne RV4 wing fairings.
>
> The question is where do I obtain RTV
> Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is it
> special ordered, and if so from whom ?
>
> Ed Funk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Ye-haw! There are other RV-4 builders out there!
I need help with something... I am fabricating the F-442 mount pads that I
believe the rudder pedals attach to. I see that the angle needs to be bent
outward 5 deg. Exactly how do you do this? I tried pounding it with a
mallet, I even left it clamped in the vice last night such that the vice was
pushing the angle open. It still pops back to a 90 deg angle. What's the
secret?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
Is there any requirement to label switches as to On/Off position? I'm
planning on using all toggle switches and all will be labeled to describe
their functions. The labels will be placed above the switches (all switches
up for On). It seems that this is sufficient to me but a friend looking
over my panel layout this last weekend questioned me on this. He thought
there may be a requirement. In the planes Ive flown to be honest Ive never
really paid attention whether or not there was any On/Off labeling.
Mike Wills
RV-4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with F-442 |
Scott,
I can't remember what the 442 angles are, I think they are the ones that
reinforce the connection of the firewall/engine mount to the floor
structure. I bent mine with a rubber mallet by putting one end in the vice
and beating the other relentlessly. I had the same question and called vans
to find out the secret. Take the attitude that you're gonna beat it so hard
it will break and you'll get it to bend.
Be carefull, once it starts to bend it is easy to over do it!
Good luck,
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse floors complete!
Engine being rebuilt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling round holes--Thank you! |
i found that useing a piece of wood behind the aluminum will always give you
a round hole.
if i can help you further, do not hesitate in calling. 8005823125-est- claudio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Also Lurking |
you can find the GE RTV at hardwares, homedepot etc. Apply dab at
stiffner trailing edge before bending.
Ed Funk wrote:
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Ed Funk"
>
> I also am lurking wondering if the RV4 list will take off. Here's a
> question from a new builder, but one who is gaining experience (making
> mistakes).
>
> I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by reading the "18 Years of the
> RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber should be applied where the
> stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. The question is where do I obtain RTV
> Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is it
> special ordered, and if so from whom ?
>
> Ed Funk
> Corning, NY
> RV4 Tail Feathers
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lemen, Ted Ce" <ted.ce.lemen(at)lmco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
I would like to see what you've got Wayne, The more ideas that I see the
easier it will be to decide on my one. Go ahead and send the acocad file if
you wouldn't mind. Thanks Ted Lemen from Denver.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WAYNE BONESTEEL [SMTP:wayneb(at)oakweb.com]
> Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 10:21 AM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/17/99
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: WAYNE BONESTEEL
>
> >
> > Great to see this list come to life.I don't have any specific questions
> > yet,I'm sure plenty will pop up.I would enjoy hearing what other people
> have
> > put in their pannels.I like the 6 pack but it eats alot of space for a
> mostly
> > VFR a/c.
>
> 1. Attitude & directional gyro's
> 2. Apollo gps com GX65
> 3. Narco Txponder
> 4. Airspeed
> 5. Altimeter
> 6. Mech. Tach. (returned to Vans for replacement, 220 rpm off @2000 RPM.)
> 7. Vertical speed
> 8. EI OAT, CHT, EGT.
> 9. Isspro Fuel L & R, Amps, Volts, Oil Press, Oil Temp.
> (Oil Temp being replaced by Vans)
> 10. Uma Fuel press, & Suction.
> 11. Master switch & Ignition switch.
> 12. Primer push button.
> 13. Dimmer pot.
> 12. Boost pump & Nav lights & strobe toggle breakers.
> 13. 7 circuit breakers.
>
> I could E-mail an Autocad dwg file or fax a copy, just let me
> know.
>
> Wayne RV4 wing fairings.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congrats Bill,
I was hoping to be ready to fly with you but matters beyond my control have
taken over and I won't be ready for another month or so. I am excited for
you and am looking forward to your performance numbers!!
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB Radios installed and painting in progress
>From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight
>Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 13:02:48 PST
>
>
> >
> >
> >Hi All,
> >I'm very pleased and excited to announce that N565BW broke the surly
>bonds
> >of earth for the first time at 10:10 a.m. this morning from 02G.
>Although
> >I thought all along that I would be boasting and cocky I must say that I
>am
> >humbled to be included in such an exclusive group.
> >
> >All on the flight went very well, except the 3 on a scale of 10 landing.
> >(My fault, not the planes)
> >
> >RV-8A Serial Number 80555
> >Lycoming 0-320-D2A
> >Sensenich FP aluminum prop
> >1031 empty weight
> >Climb about 1500 @ 120 mph (#3 cylinder got hot and I had to level off a
> >little)
> >Stall clean at about 58 mph with no wing drop
> >I seem to have a heavy wing at slow speeds and high angles of attack
>(could
> >be me)
> >The flight was as uneventful as we could have hoped for.
> >
> >We'll be updating the webpage later today with some photos if my wifes
>had
> >wasn't shaking too bad for them to turn out.
> >
> >
> >Bill Pagan
> >N565BW Flying!!!
> >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
> >
>
>Bill,
>
>OUTSTANDING!!! You made it! First customer built -8A to fly? Well, I guess
>that solves our "who's gonna be first to go" debate. Strangely enough, I
>was
>out taxiing yesterday with everything ready to fly, but maturity and the
>fear of my wife smacking the tar outta me kept me from just firewalling it
>and going flying. Hmmph!
>
>Enjoy your new toy, and keep checking six...cuz I'll be up there with
>ya...most likely on Wednesday!
>
>Congratulations!! I'm proud of ya!
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>would be flying if not at work today!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
I just asked a FSDO this question, and the basic response was, if it is
obvious how the switch functions, then it is ok. Just as long as the switch
is labeled as to its function, its ok...I think there were a few anal
retentive DAR's in the past that required builders to add the OFF/ON labels,
which made people think it was a requirement.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 11:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Panel placards
>
> Is there any requirement to label switches as to On/Off position? I'm
> planning on using all toggle switches and all will be labeled to describe
> their functions. The labels will be placed above the switches (all
switches
> up for On). It seems that this is sufficient to me but a friend looking
> over my panel layout this last weekend questioned me on this. He thought
> there may be a requirement. In the planes Ive flown to be honest Ive never
> really paid attention whether or not there was any On/Off labeling.
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
> willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help with F-442 |
If you are refering to the large al. angle brackets that you cut and get
riveted to the firewall....I didnot molest my al. brackets for fear of setting
up some future distress point(s). Mine went on w/o the bend and work fine.
Your wing mount al. angles need major bending I that was easy. Leverage...
about 3 feet or 4 feet was used and a little grunting noise and the bend was
made.
I clamped the wing attach bracket in the vise, placed a 4 foot solid metal bar
under
it and lifted.......easier than I thought. Like most things I spent lots of time
worring
and its easier than I thought.....
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com on 12/20/99 12:50:52 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Help with F-442
Ye-haw! There are other RV-4 builders out there!
I need help with something... I am fabricating the F-442 mount pads that I
believe the rudder pedals attach to. I see that the angle needs to be bent
outward 5 deg. Exactly how do you do this? I tried pounding it with a
mallet, I even left it clamped in the vice last night such that the vice was
pushing the angle open. It still pops back to a 90 deg angle. What's the
secret?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
>
>
> Is there any requirement to label switches as to On/Off position? I'm
>planning on using all toggle switches and all will be labeled to describe
>their functions. The labels will be placed above the switches (all switches
>up for On). It seems that this is sufficient to me but a friend looking
>over my panel layout this last weekend questioned me on this. He thought
>there may be a requirement. In the planes Ive flown to be honest Ive never
>really paid attention whether or not there was any On/Off labeling.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
>willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
Mike,
I just had my airworthiness inspection and the inspector did not inquire
about the on/off position indications on all my switches. I did buy toggles
which already have a stamped metal on/off plate that goes under the mounting
nut. This took care of these guys. On the master/alternator split rocker
switch, I labeled them as for what each one did, but not direction for
on/off function. Oops. He didn't ask about it. Lucky me. I labeled the
fuel selector valve cover with quantity for each tank and the off position.
The throttle and mixture levers are each labeled as such, but don't say
"push for rich" or anything like that. He did catch me on one little detail
I vaguely remembering reading about a while back. If you have any
externally color arced instrument faces, (like my airspeed indicator), the
glass must have a slippage mark on it. This came from the old days of
radial engines shaking the panel like a wet dog and eventually causing the
glass to rotate. No big deal. Easily done with a couple of Sharpie pen
dots.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry" <larryjenison(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Atlanta Area RV's |
Hello Listeners,
I will be in the Atlanta/Athens area from 12/27 to1/2. If anyone is building
or flying,I would love to see your plane or project. I have a flying 160
h.p. RV-3. I would even like to help with any project, their are two
reasons, one if you don't help me out I will have to spend the entire time
with my wife's family, who think you camp with a RV. And if I'm not working
on some airplane for a week I get real antsy.If you got one flying I would
love to buy some gas for a air tour.
Thanks
You can reply direct if you like.
Larry Jenison
93JP RV-3 160 h.p.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
Mike,
I cannot recite a specific FAR that makes it a requirement, but I think it
is a good idea.
To aid me in placarding my panel, I followed an inspection checklist that is
posted on a web site of a FAA inspector. I got to the link from Van's
homepage, but I just looked at the new page and couldn't find the link.
Maybe another listener has the link.
Anyway, his checklist included verifying that each switch was labeled with
one or the other (on or off). Sorry I wasn't much help. I thought for sure
I could find the link. I'm bummed about losing it.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting..........still"
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 2:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Panel placards
>
> Is there any requirement to label switches as to On/Off position? I'm
>planning on using all toggle switches and all will be labeled to describe
>their functions. The labels will be placed above the switches (all switches
>up for On). It seems that this is sufficient to me but a friend looking
>over my panel layout this last weekend questioned me on this. He thought
>there may be a requirement. In the planes Ive flown to be honest Ive never
>really paid attention whether or not there was any On/Off labeling.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
>willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shameless Plug |
As long as we are on the subject of great people I would like to let
everyone know that after I sent my rv-8 exhaust back to Larry Vetterman
directly, he sent me a new RV-8A exhaust that fit perfectly and he did it
exactly when he said he would. All this for the cost of postage only. Here
is another great RV person.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Shameless Plug
>Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 21:03:53 -0700
>
>
>RVers,
>
>I have to pause for a moment to offer a plug or two. I was in the
>Dallas/FtWorth area this week to do a little family visit, and I felt
>compelled
>to sneak away for a while to see where a good number of my dollars have
>gone. I
>drove over to Hicks Airfield to meet the good folks at Avery's. After I
>found
>the place (I'm useless without a moving map), I was given a tour of the
>shop and
>allowed to browse (TIP: leave the credit cards in the car). I was made to
>feel
>at home by Ken Avery, who is just a great guy. After that, I wandered
>across
>the street (taxi way) to meet George Orndorff, though after all the videos
>I
>felt as if I knew him. For those who have not had the pleasure, George is
>as
>nice and genuine as he seems on your screen. I highly recommend that you
>spend
>money with these people!
>
>This is not meant to slight any other person that is a supplier, or has a
>service to offer to RV builders. I have spent quite a bit with many other
>suppliers, as well. But by all means, when in the DFW area.....
>
>Amazing.... virtually every person that I've come in contact with while
>building have had the highest quality in character. We need to get more
>people
>building and flying RVs.
>
>Now back to the shop.
>
>Keith Hughes
>Parker, Co.
>RV-6 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
Again acknowledging about experimental ...yada...yada....FAR 23.1367 states
that all switches must be labeled as to operation and the circuit
controlled. So the answer to your question is "yes", they must have "on"
and "off". Now, how you go about doing that is up to you. If all your
switches operate the same way then one label with "on" and one with "off" at
the end of the line is acceptable. There are several manufacturers that do
it this way to save space.
MIke Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
>From: "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Panel placards
>Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 10:20:39 -0800
>
>
> Is there any requirement to label switches as to On/Off position? I'm
>planning on using all toggle switches and all will be labeled to describe
>their functions. The labels will be placed above the switches (all switches
>up for On). It seems that this is sufficient to me but a friend looking
>over my panel layout this last weekend questioned me on this. He thought
>there may be a requirement. In the planes Ive flown to be honest Ive never
>really paid attention whether or not there was any On/Off labeling.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
>willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RTV |
<<< I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by
reading the "18 Years of the
> RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber
should be applied where the
> stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. >
> Ed Funk>>>
Hi Ed,
When placing the RTV behind the stiffeners, be
careful not to fill the entire gap to the trailing
edge. This will tend to trap water, should any get
in there. The best way to do the job, is to fit
the 1/8 rod in the trailing edge, after you have
finished forming the trailing edge. Make up a long
"syringe"....piece of scrap tube, with plunger
(does not have to be perfect), dab in some RTV,
and inject into position. Let the RTV cure for a
while and then remove the 1/8 rod. I could take a
digital picture of the "syringe" if needed. This
technique worked well.
Cheers and have a great day,
Ken Glover.....Hunter Valley...Australia
RV4 VH-MKW 485hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | interior priming |
All you need is a hint of interior primer on the internal surfaces of the
airframe. It does not need to be a heavy coat as that does add weight.
Dilute the primer with MEK or other compatible solvent and "ghost" it on,
just enough to show what color the primer is. One builder (now on his third
RV) dilutes Veriprime 50% with MEK. It's the chemicals in the primer that
stop the corrosion, not the "iron clad protection" of a thick coat.
IMHO only...........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Trailing edge goo/RTV |
>go to any auto parts store and get the blue rtv silicone gasket sealer.
Yeah, that would probably work. Expensive, though.....
>imho i would only do the rudder...not the elevators. if you use this on the
>elevators you may not be able to squeeze the trailing edges for final
>adjustment when flying...
Must admit, I have never heard of the need for the elevators to be squeezed.
I believe that is only the ailrons. Also, the rudder cracking, I believe,
has not been found to be a problem, just the elevators, especially the
right, and mostly in the aircraft powered by more than 160 hp.
Or doing tail slides. (!)
The other consideration has been: if the trailing edge has blobs of goo
every 5 inches or so, how does the water that accumulates in there get out?
Would this be an area of increased corrosion as the water would sit there
and rot? There is a natural drain angle without the trailing edge being
stopped up. I think this was addressed in the archives.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | parts cleaning solvents |
>My question is, how come I have seen most of my life, mechanics, wash all
>parts including ballbearings, in plain gasoline, and then dry with force air?
An old mechanic friend of mine never washed anything that was a bearing in
gasoline, handy as it was. In fact, I don't think he washed anything in
gasoline. He said it got things "too clean". I always took that to mean
that it got way down into the microscopic areas of the parts and they didn't
need to be that clean. It was probably that it was just bloody dangerous.
Air drying bearings was also a no-no as the bearing could suddenly go
screaming around on the race and he said that wasn't good for the bearing.
Compressed air also usually has *water* in it and forcing that into the
hidden parts of a bearing before cramming a bunch of grease into it so it
could sit there and rust was probably why he didn't care for that much
either. He was pretty smart. I didn't question some of his methods; they
just had worked for him for so long I thought they didn't need to be questioned.
Just my humble opinion......and ol' Jim's, by the way.....
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: parts cleaning solvents |
If you are concerned about blowing compressed air in the race, or concerned
about not being able to dry the part, why not use a low boiling point
solvent like Methlyne Chloride? It will clean the snot out of anything, and
evaporate it all away in seconds, with no residue. We used to use that and
MIBK (Methyl Isobutal Keytone) to clean off Star Wars rockets before they
had their coatings sprayed on them.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 2:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: parts cleaning solvents
>
> >My question is, how come I have seen most of my life, mechanics, wash
all
> >parts including ballbearings, in plain gasoline, and then dry with force
air?
>
> An old mechanic friend of mine never washed anything that was a bearing in
> gasoline, handy as it was. In fact, I don't think he washed anything in
> gasoline. He said it got things "too clean". I always took that to mean
> that it got way down into the microscopic areas of the parts and they
didn't
> need to be that clean. It was probably that it was just bloody dangerous.
>
> Air drying bearings was also a no-no as the bearing could suddenly go
> screaming around on the race and he said that wasn't good for the bearing.
> Compressed air also usually has *water* in it and forcing that into the
> hidden parts of a bearing before cramming a bunch of grease into it so it
> could sit there and rust was probably why he didn't care for that much
> either. He was pretty smart. I didn't question some of his methods; they
> just had worked for him for so long I thought they didn't need to be
questioned.
>
> Just my humble opinion......and ol' Jim's, by the way.....
>
> Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Forgot to mention this . . . when I mix a two part epoxy primer . . .
especially in small quantities . . . I have found using a large syringe to
be invaluable. I'm using Akzo which comes in two large paint cans. One can
has what looks like a clear liquid . . . the other has a thicker, greenish
"paint". I suck up half of whatever quantity I want to mix with a 60 cc
syringe . . . squirt this in a mixing cup . . . suck up the same amount of
the green stuff with the same syringe . . . squirt this in the mixing cup .
. . mix the cup, pour it into my sprayer, and away I go. I wipe off the
syringe and remove the plunger . . . and it can be reused again and again.
There is no spillage, no mess, relatively accurate mixing, etc. etc.
Thought I'd pass this on.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Good going Jim.
DNA
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
===================================================
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm happy to report that another RVer has finally attained the RV
>grin.
>left the ground for the first time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
>
>Again acknowledging about experimental ...yada...yada....FAR 23.1367 states
>that all switches must be labeled as to operation and the circuit
>controlled. So the answer to your question is "yes", they must have "on"
>and "off". Now, how you go about doing that is up to you. If all your
>switches operate the same way then one label with "on" and one with "off" at
>the end of the line is acceptable. There are several manufacturers that do
>it this way to save space.
>
>MIke Robertson
>RV-8A QB
So this is another one of those "grey areas" where it depends on who you
ask as to what the rules are and whether or not they apply? I'm seeing
responses both ways. Looking at various web pages I see it done with and
without the labels. I sure would like to go without as I think it just adds
unnecessary clutter to the panel. But Steve Davis is doing an overlay for
me and I sure dont want to have to have that redone. Guess I'll break down
and call the local FSDO and see what the local interpretation is.
Mike Wills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
Ed Funk wrote:
>
>
> I also am lurking wondering if the RV4 list will take off. Here's a
> question from a new builder, but one who is gaining experience (making
> mistakes).
>
> I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by reading the "18 Years of the
> RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber should be applied where the
> stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. The question is where do I obtain RTV
> Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is it
> special ordered, and if so from whom ?
>
> Ed Funk
> Corning, NY
> RV4 Tail Feathers
>
>
Ed,
I get mine at Pep Boys Automotive.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com> |
Question???
Is it acceptable to use 816- fittings with 303 hose? ACS and Wicks call for 491-
fittings
with the 303 hose, but the 491 fittings don't have the inner locking nut that is
on the 816 ---
so I can't seem to get the mandrel to effectively tighten the 491's.
I'm ready to move on now --- I've fiddled with the hoses long enough.
Clay Smith, RV-4, engine plumbing
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
You want to make sure you get the rtv that does not have acetic acid
compound in it
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6BLDR" <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Also Lurking
>
> Ed Funk wrote:
> >
> >
> > I also am lurking wondering if the RV4 list will take off. Here's a
> > question from a new builder, but one who is gaining experience (making
> > mistakes).
> >
> > I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by reading the "18 Years of
the
> > RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber should be applied where
the
> > stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. The question is where do I obtain
RTV
> > Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is
it
> > special ordered, and if so from whom ?
> >
> > Ed Funk
> > Corning, NY
> > RV4 Tail Feathers
> >
> >
> Ed,
>
> I get mine at Pep Boys Automotive.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: parts cleaning solvents |
I've been told that using air creates accelerated wear.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: parts cleaning solvents
>
>If you are concerned about blowing compressed air in the race, or concerned
>about not being able to dry the part, why not use a low boiling point
>solvent like Methlyne Chloride? It will clean the snot out of anything,
and
>evaporate it all away in seconds, with no residue. We used to use that and
>MIBK (Methyl Isobutal Keytone) to clean off Star Wars rockets before they
>had their coatings sprayed on them.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 2:10 PM
>Subject: RV-List: parts cleaning solvents
>
>
>>
>> >My question is, how come I have seen most of my life, mechanics, wash
>all
>> >parts including ballbearings, in plain gasoline, and then dry with force
>air?
>>
>> An old mechanic friend of mine never washed anything that was a bearing
in
>> gasoline, handy as it was. In fact, I don't think he washed anything in
>> gasoline. He said it got things "too clean". I always took that to mean
>> that it got way down into the microscopic areas of the parts and they
>didn't
>> need to be that clean. It was probably that it was just bloody dangerous.
>>
>> Air drying bearings was also a no-no as the bearing could suddenly go
>> screaming around on the race and he said that wasn't good for the
bearing.
>> Compressed air also usually has *water* in it and forcing that into the
>> hidden parts of a bearing before cramming a bunch of grease into it so it
>> could sit there and rust was probably why he didn't care for that much
>> either. He was pretty smart. I didn't question some of his methods; they
>> just had worked for him for so long I thought they didn't need to be
>questioned.
>>
>> Just my humble opinion......and ol' Jim's, by the way.....
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge goo/RTV |
When you use RTV/silicone it's important to ensure it is non-corrosive and
labeled as such. Some silicones are acidic and due to "right to know"
disclosure laws chemical companies do not have to list all the ingredients
of their finished products. I used Rotanium non-corrosive silicone part
#92385. (designed for electrical applications)
If it smells like vinegar don't use it on your .020 aluminum because it is
vinegar .
Rob Baxter RV-8
Sarnia Ont.
waiting for wing kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 4:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Trailing edge goo/RTV
>
> >go to any auto parts store and get the blue rtv silicone gasket sealer.
>
> Yeah, that would probably work. Expensive, though.....
>
> The other consideration has been: if the trailing edge has blobs of goo
> every 5 inches or so, how does the water that accumulates in there get
out?
> Would this be an area of increased corrosion as the water would sit there
> and rot? There is a natural drain angle without the trailing edge being
> stopped up. I think this was addressed in the archives.
>
> Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
In a message dated 12/20/99 2:30:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil writes:
<< Guess I'll break down
and call the local FSDO and see what the local interpretation is. >>
Why bother to talk to them??? Just climb into some Cert. Spam Cans and then
you will have a real basis on which to make a decision. It seems to me that
the standard they use for us should not be any more stringent than what they
use for Type Certificated Aircraft.
Jim Nice
RV6A(Wings)
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Thanks Brian! I know you've already got more time than me in an RV but I
gotta tell you, you're gonna love this plane!! Compared to the junk I've
flown over the past couple years (Cherokee 140) this thing is like an F-16.
After I lifted off the thing climbed like a rocket. I've never
experienced 1500 fpm. It's gonna take some getting used to for a low time
slug like me but do plan on getting a lot of practice:-) I hope the
weather turns out for you on Wednesday. Just remember to come in on final
a little slower than I did as 100 mph was a little fast (YIKES!) Keep me
posted.
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
>>
>>
>>Hi All,
>>I'm very pleased and excited to announce that N565BW broke the surly bonds
>>of earth for the first time at 10:10 a.m. this morning from 02G. Although
>>I thought all along that I would be boasting and cocky I must say that I am
>>humbled to be included in such an exclusive group.
>>
>>All on the flight went very well, except the 3 on a scale of 10 landing.
>>(My fault, not the planes)
>>
>>RV-8A Serial Number 80555
>>Lycoming 0-320-D2A
>>Sensenich FP aluminum prop
>>1031 empty weight
>>Climb about 1500 @ 120 mph (#3 cylinder got hot and I had to level off a
>>little)
>>Stall clean at about 58 mph with no wing drop
>>I seem to have a heavy wing at slow speeds and high angles of attack (could
>>be me)
>>The flight was as uneventful as we could have hoped for.
>>
>>We'll be updating the webpage later today with some photos if my wifes had
>>wasn't shaking too bad for them to turn out.
>>
>>
>>Bill Pagan
>>N565BW Flying!!!
>>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>>
>
>Bill,
>
>OUTSTANDING!!! You made it! First customer built -8A to fly? Well, I guess
>that solves our "who's gonna be first to go" debate. Strangely enough, I was
>out taxiing yesterday with everything ready to fly, but maturity and the
>fear of my wife smacking the tar outta me kept me from just firewalling it
>and going flying. Hmmph!
>
>Enjoy your new toy, and keep checking six...cuz I'll be up there with
>ya...most likely on Wednesday!
>
>Congratulations!! I'm proud of ya!
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>would be flying if not at work today!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
See page 5, fifth issue 1998 RVator for RTV on trailing edge.
RV6BLDR wrote:
>
>
> Ed Funk wrote:
> >
> >
> > I also am lurking wondering if the RV4 list will take off. Here's a
> > question from a new builder, but one who is gaining experience (making
> > mistakes).
> >
> > I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by reading the "18 Years of the
> > RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber should be applied where the
> > stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. The question is where do I obtain RTV
> > Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is it
> > special ordered, and if so from whom ?
> >
> > Ed Funk
> > Corning, NY
> > RV4 Tail Feathers
> >
> >
> Ed,
>
> I get mine at Pep Boys Automotive.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wallace R. Penney" <wallyp(at)interlog.com> |
| Subject: | Wanted Lyc O-290D2 Jugs |
Hi Folks:
A fellow RV builder at our field is completing an ancient RV-3 kit that languished
for decades. The project included an O-290D2 engine that is currently being
re-furbished. Two jugs need to be replaced. He is looking for steel cylinders
(i.e. not chromed) to match the remaining ones. If anyone has O-290D2 jugs,
either serviceable or repairable, he would be interested. For offers you can reply
to me off-list at wallyp(at)interlog.com and I will pass on the message or call
Charlie directly at 905-451-2327. Thanks for your help.
Wally.......flying RV-3, Toronto
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
I have finally started on my first tank and did the stiffeners. The question
I have is how long does this stuff take to dry? The instructions on the can
leave a bit to be desired regarding such data. Living in Phoenix with temps
currently in the 70s, I didn't think that would be a problem.
Bill Christie RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
Rtv means Room Temperature Vulcanizing as opposed to the type of 2 part
silicones that usually are oven cured.
So basically any of the tube type silicones are RTV. Some (most) have
acetic acid in them and might react with metals so watch out for that
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Nipon-Dienso 50 AMP Alternator |
After going through 2 of Vans 35 amp maybe alternators I switched to a 50 amp
Nipon - Dienso unit. The unit I have cost $125 from the local auto parts
store and is off of a Suzuki Samurai. Van's sells the bracket and the unit
just bolted on. Compared the 35amp unit this is really nice, dual internal
cooling fans.
I just assumed that the 35 amp unit would be big enough for a VFR RV-4 and
was I wrong:
1) Strobes 7 amps
2) Nav, switch, inst lights 10 amps
3) Landing lights 16 amps
4) High pressure fuel pump 5 amps
5) Radio 1 to 5 amps
6) Gyro and battery relay 2 amps?
I was told by the local alternator shop that if you try and get 35 amps out
of the Van's unit it will roll over and die - I verified this twice.
Now for the regulator debate, yes the unit has an internal regulator I have
done the following to solve the over voltage problem:
1) 60 amp manual breaker.
2) Overvoltage circuit tied to a relay in the output of the alternator.
And if the Alternator should fail on a trip guess who is getting home? I
bought mine on a Sunday from a local Napa store.
I was told by a number of people that the problem with an internal regulator
is that once they are running they cannot be shut down by removing the power
from the regulator, this was not correct - pull the power from the regulator
and the Alternator stops, I verified this on two different installations.
A local flying club had an Alternator failure on their C-172, the output lead
of the alternator shorted to the field lead. All the avionics got smoked
along with a lot of wiring, luckily this happened on the ground. The circuit
breaker did not trip and was a flush model so there was no way to stop the
alternator :(
Show me where I am wrong but I don't think the B&C regulator and over voltage
protection would have saved this?
Rob Hickman
N401RH (19 Hours and all the lights are on :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
>
>In a message dated 12/20/99 2:30:07 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil writes:
>
><< Guess I'll break down
> and call the local FSDO and see what the local interpretation is. >>
>Why bother to talk to them??? Just climb into some Cert. Spam Cans and then
>you will have a real basis on which to make a decision. It seems to me that
>the standard they use for us should not be any more stringent than what they
>use for Type Certificated Aircraft.
>Jim Nice
>RV6A(Wings)
>WA State
Well I looked at some pix of those also on the web. I did find an old
C120 without labels for ON but the C152s and 172s I checked did have the
labels. Ironically I checked the 152 that Ive flown most recently and all
of the labels are worn off. You have to just know which switch does what
because the labels are all virtually unreadable.
Ive decided to add a generic "switches up for ON " label across the
bottom of the panel below the switch bank. Its ugly but provides some CYA
insurance.
Thanks all for the input,
Mike Wills
RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SS flap tape |
Randy,
I have a roll you can have, I went with the uhmv.
Send me your mailing address.
Warren Moore
MOOREWAR(at)AOL.com
Still sweating the rv-4 canopy,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Fixed pitch vs c/s prop |
I'm having a hard time justifying the initial cost, complexity and increased
operating costs of a c/s prop based on increased climb and cruise performance
alone. I'm planning on the 180 hp O-360 engine in my 6AQB and expect this
little ship will blow me away compared to what I'm used to flying. I do live
in Colorado so will be operating at higher altitudes. I would like to hear
from some experienced folks out there about other factors favoring c/s vs
fixed pitch props.
Thanks,
Doug Shenk, RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Bill,
I'm right where you are -- just started sealing the first tank on my 8A, and
from what I have seen and have been reading, it may take several days to set
up very hard. I think George says to leave it for three or four days, and
the Frank Justice notes say don't put any gas in it for several weeks. I
have some I did Saturday, and a little I did Sunday, and there is an obvious
difference in how much they have set up. I don't think there is a ny reason
for concern.
Fun stuff, isn't it?
Terry Watson
RV-8A tanks
Seattle
>
> I have finally started on my first tank and did the stiffeners. The
question
> I have is how long does this stuff take to dry? The instructions on the
can
> leave a bit to be desired regarding such data. Living in Phoenix with
temps
> currently in the 70s, I didn't think that would be a problem.
>
> Bill Christie RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Hi Bill:
I found that my proseal was setting to the point where it was no longer
tacky after about 24 hours. This was in my garage in the summer, temps
around 80. Completely cured after about 2-3 days.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Ready to pound those 3/16th inch spar rivets on second main spar
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 6:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: pro seal
>
>
>I have finally started on my first tank and did the stiffeners. The
question
>I have is how long does this stuff take to dry? The instructions on the can
>leave a bit to be desired regarding such data. Living in Phoenix with temps
>currently in the 70s, I didn't think that would be a problem.
>
>Bill Christie RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixed pitch vs c/s prop |
I had a wood prop on my 0-360 RV6A.
And yes it did blow by most the bonanzas on the field as it was.
I could tell you that my new constant speed prop doesn't require
1.) constant checking of prop bolts for proper torque
2.) doesn't get cracks or have to be varnished
3.) can fly through rain without erosion
I found out about all these REAL ISSUES after flying with a wood prop for
awhile.
But all that pales in comparison if:
You get a kick out of accelerating very fast, taking off in very short
distances, and climbing faster than almost any airplane at your token
airport, if you are the kind of person who likes the performance sports car,
if you like to get to high altitudes quickly for safety ( less birds, more
options, etc.), if you like to take off after a mooney or bonanza and pass
them up as they stare at you wheels when you go by them on the way to the
flyin breakfest, then forget the wood prop. The pucker factor is that great
!
I would rather have a good rebuilt used lycoming 0-360 and constant speed
prop, than a new engine with a wood prop. Since money is an issue, and I am
building and RV8A now, that is exactly what I am going to do for it !
Scott Johnson RV6A 150TT N345RV 180 HP and constant speed prop
RV8A tail complete, wings complete, fuselage in
progress
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Shenk <dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 1:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fixed pitch vs c/s prop
>
> I'm having a hard time justifying the initial cost, complexity and
increased
> operating costs of a c/s prop based on increased climb and cruise
performance
> alone. I'm planning on the 180 hp O-360 engine in my 6AQB and expect this
> little ship will blow me away compared to what I'm used to flying. I do
live
> in Colorado so will be operating at higher altitudes. I would like to hear
> from some experienced folks out there about other factors favoring c/s vs
> fixed pitch props.
> Thanks,
> Doug Shenk, RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted Lyc O-290D2 Jugs |
Wallace R. Penney wrote:
>
>
> Hi Folks:
>
> A fellow RV builder at our field is completing an ancient RV-3 kit that languished
for decades. The project included an O-290D2 engine that is currently being
re-furbished. Two jugs need to be replaced. He is looking for steel cylinders
(i.e. not chromed) to match the remaining ones. If anyone has O-290D2 jugs,
either serviceable or repairable, he would be interested. For offers you can
reply to me off-list at wallyp(at)interlog.com and I will pass on the message or
call Charlie directly at 905-451
>
> Wally.......flying RV-3, Toronto
> do not archieve
You can occassionally find 0-290 parts at this site.
<http://www.wingsonline.com/engprt.html>
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Bill Christie wrote:
>
>
> I have finally started on my first tank and did the stiffeners. The question
> I have is how long does this stuff take to dry? The instructions on the can
> leave a bit to be desired regarding such data. Living in Phoenix with temps
> currently in the 70s, I didn't think that would be a problem.
>
> Bill Christie RV8A
>
Bill,
It's going to depend on the temp and also the ratio of the black hardner
used. If the 10 to 1 ratio was used and it's in the 70's, it may take
2-3 days. Even after that it still has a slight tacky feel to it for a
short time. I will probably get flamed(flame away..my tanks don't
leak!) for this, but I varied the ratio a little to accelerate drying in
colder temps.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 flame proof
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Epoxy |
On the difficulties in mixing small quantities of epoxy paint, Home Depot
has, or at least, had, (with them you never know) white plastic gallon paint
can covers that have narrow spouts with covers that make pouring a few ounces
of each part into a small measuring cup quite easy. As little as one or two
ounces can be made up reasonably accurately. Having been using this method
for a while without problems. Andy Johnson, -8 wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: parts cleaning solvents |
The problem with using gasoline and Methylene Chloride is that the gasoline
is very flammable and both are carcinogens. While the new safe(er) solvents are
more expensive and don't work as well as these very volatile solvents, your
health is invaluable. We are exposed to many toxic and dangerous chemicals
while working on our projects and need to limit that as much as possible. Many
chemicals are more dangerous the more you are exposed to them.
It is fine to use compressed air to dry off your bearings after you have
cleaned them, advisable even. The problem, as Michael said, comes about from
letting the bearing spin. It is lots of fun to see how fast you can get the
bearing spinning, and it makes a great noise.... but case-hardened steel with
no lubrication will be damaged by this. You can't hurt a bearing by blowing air
on it unless you let it spin. There have even been cases of the bearing
assembly flying apart while spinning rapidly and doing damage. Clean your
bearings so that they are spotless, grease them properly and be sure to remove
and install them correctly and you will have no problems.
Dave Burton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Epoxy |
Ok, how about putting some of each liquid in a cleaned out dish detergent
bottle. Skake paint bottle, squirt in the gun cup the required amounts of
each, mix/shake and shoot. Wipe bottle tops, store with remaining liquid
until next time.
Marty Emrath RV6 wings, Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Jory <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 3:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Mixing Epoxy
>
> Forgot to mention this . . . when I mix a two part epoxy primer . . .
> especially in small quantities . . . I have found using a large syringe to
> be invaluable. I'm using Akzo which comes in two large paint cans. One
can
> has what looks like a clear liquid . . . the other has a thicker, greenish
> "paint". I suck up half of whatever quantity I want to mix with a 60 cc
> syringe . . . squirt this in a mixing cup . . . suck up the same amount of
> the green stuff with the same syringe . . . squirt this in the mixing cup
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mglantz(at)uswest.net |
by albqpop1.albq.uswest.net with SMTP; 21 Dec 1999 03":38:06.-0000(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Also Lurking |
Wayne thanks for the auto cad offer,bring it on.It's just to cold in my garage
to
do any riviting today so thinking out my pannel is spending my time
constructivly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New Website and Catalog |
Listers,
Team Rocket has a new website that is a bit easier to find and a WHOLE lot
more user friendly. The new site is at www.teamrocketaircraft.com. Please
come by and check out the new site!
We also have our new catalog online as well. It is an online catalog with a
secure server. I have not uploaded the pictures yet, but I have put
everything in it so far. Purchases can be made with a credit card or by check
and the catalog can be browsed very easily. (sorry bout the old one being so
hard to see). Please take some time to check it out.
Thanks!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: parts cleaning solvents |
> I've been told that using air creates accelerated wear.
>If you are concerned about blowing compressed air in the race, or concerned
>about not being able to dry the part, why not use a low boiling point
>solvent like Methlyne Chloride? It will clean the snot out of anything,
>and
>evaporate it all away in seconds, with no residue. We used to use that and
>MIBK (Methyl Isobutal Keytone) to clean off Star Wars rockets before they
>had their coatings sprayed on them.
>My question is, how come I have seen most of my life, mechanics, wash
>all
>parts including ballbearings, in plain gasoline, and then dry with force
>air?
>An old mechanic friend of mine never washed anything that was a bearing
>in
>gasoline, handy as it was. In fact, I don't think he washed anything in
>gasoline. He said it got things "too clean". I always took that to mean
>that it got way down into the microscopic areas of the parts and they
>didn't
>need to be that clean. It was probably that it was just bloody dangerous.
>Air drying bearings was also a no-no as the bearing could suddenly go
>screaming around on the race and he said that wasn't good for the
>bearing.
>Compressed air also usually has *water* in it and forcing that into the
>hidden parts of a bearing before cramming a bunch of grease into it so it
>could sit there and rust was probably why he didn't care for that much
>either. He was pretty smart. I didn't question some of his methods; they
>just had worked for him for so long I thought they didn't need to be
>questioned.
Just two cents from an auto mechanic\shop owner.
You can not have the bearing too clean. You want all residue out of the
bearing.
I wash them in solvent, blow them out, then repeat until no old residue
comes out.
Any type of cleaner can do the job. You can use carb cleaner (spray can
type),
lacquer thinner, paint thinner, solvent, etc. If it cleans it will
work.
Never spin a bearing. The DANGER of spinning a bearing is that they can
fly apart.
While spinning, the rollers are flung out by centrifugal force and can
release the cage and rollers from the inner race. At the high speeds the
bearings can be spun, the projectile cage and rollers can cause damage
to people and property. Damaging the bearing is not the problem, it is
the collateral damage.
You can safely blow the bearing dry. Just hold it so it will not spin.
Air is the
most time efficiant way to help get the old dirt out using the standard
parts cleaners in the shop. The air will not hurt the bearing. Stronger
cleaners will get the grease out easier. For the doityourselfer (is that
a real word), a spray can of brake clean
will be one of the easiest ways to clean them. Cheap, no cleaner to
store or dispose, dries quickly, removes grease well, and minimum damage
to the environment. I never use gloves, but would recommended them. I
do not use safety glasses when cleaning parts, but they would be a good
idea too. After cleaning do not let the dry bearing sit around all day
before repacking.
Ask your mechanic how he does it.
George Meketa (ASE master mechanic)
RV8-QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denton Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixed pitch vs c/s prop |
I happen on a used C/S with a fresh overhaul for a excellent price several
years ago. However, if I build again and I am thinking Sensenich that Van
sells. The numbers on it looked good. Very, very little loss in
performance as compared to the C/S for difference in dollars invested,
according to the test figures. Plus, it would have the wx benfits of a C/S
and not have the maint. problem of a wood prop. But it does boil down to
the of the bank account and what is important to the buyer.
Have a great Day!
Denny Harjehausen
Lebanon, OR
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: parts cleaning solvents |
I have spun a bearing until it flew apart. The outer race and rollers
lifted off the inner race and took off across the shop and landed right
in a shallow floor drain.
Luckily no harm to anyone. Ah.... to be 16 again.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Epoxy |
I mix small quantities of epoxy every day. I use small disposable cups
and scoop the paint right out of the bucket. Ratios are close enough.
The manufacturers formulate some latitude for mismixing into these
products. Just try to get it close or if you really want precision buy a
triple beam scale at your friendly pawnshop for 30 bucks and dial the
proportions exactly.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net> |
| Subject: | AutoCad RV8 drawings |
Could someone direct me to some RV8 3-view AutoCad drawings? I can't
find them on the new Van's website. Maybe the 'Downloads' section was a
victim of the reorganization....
Thanks in advance.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wallace R. Penney" <wallyp(at)interlog.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Interior Layout |
Larry wrote:
I'm In the process of redoing the interior layout on my 3. I would like to
change my throttle to a quadrant which would also have the mixture and trim
levers. Being right handed I would like this on the left side, the flap
handle is also on the left. One way would be to shorten the flap lever about
2 inches. Would I have to be a weight lifter to depoly flaps.
Larry:
I have a throttle quadrant on the left side of my RV-3 and I shortened the flap
handle to 18" from 21" to accommodate it. Deployment is not a problem. Lever
forces depend on air loads and you can simply slow down a bit more if you find
the forces heavy. I've never found it difficult and I'm no weight lifter.
Wally.....Flying RV-3, Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Also Lurking |
Why not put a piece of drinking straw in the dab of RTV? Then any trapped
water has a way out.
Dick White
RV-8QB systems
Newport, OR
DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 10:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Also Lurking
>
> you can find the GE RTV at hardwares, homedepot etc. Apply dab at
> stiffner trailing edge before bending.
>
> Ed Funk wrote:
> >
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Ed Funk"
> >
> > I also am lurking wondering if the RV4 list will take off. Here's a
> > question from a new builder, but one who is gaining experience (making
> > mistakes).
> >
> > I'm getting ready to build the elevator and by reading the "18 Years of
the
> > RV-Ator" I understand that RTV Silicone rubber should be applied where
the
> > stiffeners meet at the trailing edge. The question is where do I obtain
RTV
> > Silicone ? Is this the silicone caulk found at the hardware store ? Is
it
> > special ordered, and if so from whom ?
> >
> > Ed Funk
> > Corning, NY
> > RV4 Tail Feathers
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-List:Repacking Wheel Bearings Re:RV-ListDigest:12/19/99 |
Come on you guys, Earl's right here.
I don't mean to sound like someone's mother, but, parts cleaning solvent is
cheap and doesn't have the ignition problem that gas does. You can find it
at almost any wholesale fuel distributor and a lot of auto parts stores.
I've got a number of fireman/paramedic friends and have heard more stories
over beer and pizza than any "civilian" should be allowed to know lest they
have trouble sleeping.
Solvent is cheap. Burn recovery isn't.
..switching off mother-mode now..
Mike RV-4 N996RV
>From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Repacking Wheel Bearings
>
>
>No flame or disrespect intended but I once worked where parts were
>consistently cleaned with gasoline untill it flashed over one day.
> The parts cleaner later died from his burns. Don't know how much
>kerosene will lower the flash point but gasoline fumes hug the floor
>and are dangerous.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hose Fittings |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> Question???
> Is it acceptable to use 816- fittings with 303 hose? ACS and Wicks
> call for 491- fittings
> with the 303 hose, but the 491 fittings don't have the inner locking
> nut that is on the 816 ---
> so I can't seem to get the mandrel to effectively tighten the 491's.
>
> I'm ready to move on now --- I've fiddled with the hoses long
> enough.
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4, engine plumbing
> Indiana
>
Aeroquip 303 hose requires 491 fittings.
If the nut on the fitting is properly tightened on to the mandrel then
the entire assembly (mandrel, nut, and center threaded thingy) should
turn together into the fitting body and hose.
Use lots of lube and once things start to get tight you must not stop.
Keep it turning all the way to the end. If you stop it is very difficult
to get started again without the hose spinning around in the fitting
body.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
Mike,
It must have slipped my attention last time that you wrote that were putting
in a 13B. We do seem to have a lot in common, indeed. I haven't noticed you
putting your 13B annotation in your signature before. Perhaps you have
noticed that I have been doing it lately. I made a conscious choice to do
that so that more people would be aware of the engine. And any converts my
help to contribute to the 13B 'fund of knowledge.' I also suppose that I'm
hoping someone will ask some questions on the list so I can make a plug :-)
As far a labeling the switches, I haven't heard about any requirement, but I
do know that most of the cessnas I fly dont even the function labeled. You
just have to remember that 2nd in is landing light etc.. Those planes seem
to pass annuals every year.
Best Regards,
Dave Leonard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle Question |
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Baffle Question
>
>>
>>I have seen many tied with safety wire, the original rods, and left open
on
>>several production aircraft with no problems. On thing to be careful of
>>here is that what ever you use make sure that you check that it doesn't
hit
>>the oil return tubes. I have seen a lot of them wear thru the returns
tubes
>>and it makes an oily mess. I am going to leave mine off if I ever get to
>>that point.
>
>Another opinion:
>
>Norman Way who has several hundred hours on a Pitts S1 he built ten years
>ago, put welding rods threaded and nuts on his Lycoming. He bent them to
>avoid chewing on other parts.
>
>I liked the wire and cotters idea but with baffles in place, these were
>very hard to install and will surely cut thru the return lines. Off they
come.
>
>On the drawings with the baffle kit appears the word 'optional' but I
>suppose that to mean wire or steel rod.
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne - SJC
>RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
I used the threaded rod method, joggled to clear obstructions, with a fixed
nut and washer on one end and a hardware store coil spring with washers and
an adjustable nut on the other end. Spring tension keeps the baffles tight
and the nut from backing off.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions.... |
Ya'll,
Just wondering if anyone has used and has any experiences with the Fibrelite
lighting system for aicraft instruments?? It is sold through aircraft
spruce
and apparently lights 8-16 instruments with a remote bulb. Do they require
any additional spacing between the instruments (vertically or laterally)
similar to instruments with internal lighting.....I understand they are
"sandwiched" between the panel and the instrument. Any comments
appreciated...thanks...
Kurt, 6A Emp
Okie City....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions.... |
The fiberlites are substandard in quality, IMHO. I used the light wedges
by UMA. They produce a much brighter, more evenly colored light, and the
construction of the wedge was much more sturdy. You don't need any
additional space for your instruments. The only thing you need to do is
machine out a groove for the dogleg on your altimeter. You can see them at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/panel2.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 6:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions....
>
> Ya'll,
>
> Just wondering if anyone has used and has any experiences with the
Fibrelite
> lighting system for aicraft instruments?? It is sold through aircraft
> spruce
> and apparently lights 8-16 instruments with a remote bulb. Do they
require
> any additional spacing between the instruments (vertically or laterally)
> similar to instruments with internal lighting.....I understand they are
> "sandwiched" between the panel and the instrument. Any comments
> appreciated...thanks...
>
> Kurt, 6A Emp
> Okie City....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DOBES" <DOBES(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Project For Sale |
I am selling my RV-6 Project. I live in Austin, Texas and may be reached at
512-288-0518. Selling price is $17,000. Description follows:
FUSELAGE: Completed by Mark Fredrick who does custom building of RVs and
Rockets. His work is simply outstanding. Most of the major work on the
fuselage has been completed. Fairing of the windscreen needs to be done.
Inside of the cockpit has been painted with an epoxy paint. The fuselage is
on its wheels with the following completed:
Sliding canopy installed
Instrument panel installed (has removable cluster with instrument holes
drilled).
Panel below instrument panel installed to put switchs, throttle, etc. (In
lieu of center panel).
Seats, rudder bar and pedals, etc completed.
Engine mount powder coated and installed
Battery box and recess for oil filter installed
WING: Includes phlogistron spars. One wing has tank sealed, installed and
leading edge installed. Landing light installed. All panels drilled and
ready to dimple and rivet.
CONTROL SURFACES: Completed
FLAPS: Completed
EMPENNAGE: Mostly completed. Needs fiberglass tips installed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Epoxy |
There are a couple of other options:
1. Check with an EZ builder. Rutan had plans for a simple balance to
measure epoxy. You would have to modify per your required ratio.
2. An inexpensive electronic scale accurate to a gram or less can be
purchased in the $100.00 range. This would have a multiplicity of uses.
Check science supply catalogs at your local high school or possibly local
stores for food or postal balances. They have a tare button that will zero
out the scale with the weight of the empty cup on it.
3. Use plastic cups that are calibrated so you can mix by proper volume
ratio. Urinalysis cups might be available that are calibrated. Inexpensive
plastic beakers or graduated cylinders from a scientific supply are also
available in different sizes.
You probably should try to be within 5% on the mix if it is a true epoxy.
Epoxy is not a catalyzed product. It is cross linked and therefore depends
on a proper ration of molecules for most complete cross linking.
Art Glaser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Petri David S CDR <David.Petri(at)peterson.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Tall RV-6 Drivers |
Listers,
I checked the archive to no avail, but I'm certain this discussion has
already occurred...
I'm 6'6" and very interested in the RV, but the wife wants a side-by-side...
which certainly limits the choices. I know the RV-8 and I are compatible,
but how's the fit for tall guys in the RV-6?
Thanks,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I asked this on the budding RV4-List but only got one answer....
I need help with something... I am fabricating the F-442 mount pads that I
believe the rudder pedals attach to. I see from the plans that the angle
needs to be bent outward 5 deg. Exactly how do you do this? I tried
pounding it with a mallet, I even left it clamped in the vice last night
such that the vice was pushing the angle open. It still pops back to a 90
deg angle. What's the secret?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tall RV-6 Drivers |
Petri David S CDR wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> I checked the archive to no avail, but I'm certain this discussion has
> already occurred...
>
> I'm 6'6" and very interested in the RV, but the wife wants a side-by-side...
> which certainly limits the choices. I know the RV-8 and I are compatible,
> but how's the fit for tall guys in the RV-6?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
I had a 6'5" person in my RV-6 on Saturday. I used my "tall friend" seat
cushion which is about 2" of Sunmate and uerathane foam. I had to remove
the seat back cushions as it pushed him to far forward. I built the
airplane to fit my 5'9" size so the seats are fairly thick. I taped some
1/2" foam to the seat back and he fit quite well. The seat went to the
aft adjustment and he had about 1.5" of head room. Comfortable enough
that we flew about an hour. Interestingly enough, with the thin seat
back, he was quite comfortable with the rudder pedal placement, which is
in the middle of the plans allowed spot.
BTW, he was the 208th different person to go for a ride in my RV. I'm
hoping it was one of those $50000 "free" rides.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Tall RV-6 Drivers |
Depends upon whether your height is in your trunk or your legs. For
example, I'm 6'2", but I have only a 32" inseam. While I fit in the -6,
there is very little headroom with a headset unless I use thin bottom
cushions. The particular example -6 I flew had not been built, however,
with a tall person in mind.
YMMV.
Michael Pilla
Petri David S CDR wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> I checked the archive to no avail, but I'm certain this discussion has
> already occurred...
>
> I'm 6'6" and very interested in the RV, but the wife wants a side-by-side...
> which certainly limits the choices. I know the RV-8 and I are compatible,
> but how's the fit for tall guys in the RV-6?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy and Pro-Seal |
I just replaced the windshield on my twin comanche with pro seal. The old
one had been pro sealed in. Other than being hard to get out I had no
problems. Many jetliners use pro seal on windows.
Stan Mehrhoff\
RV-8, mounting engine, Central MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with F-422 |
Scott you will need to use a hammer with some weight to it. I used a
5 lb. hammer. Go easy until you get the degree you want. I suspect your
mallet is too light. I had no problem bending it.
Earl RV4 on gear
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I asked this on the budding RV4-List but only got one answer....
>
> I need help with something... I am fabricating the F-442 mount pads that I
> believe the rudder pedals attach to. I see from the plans that the angle
> needs to be bent outward 5 deg. Exactly how do you do this? I tried
> pounding it with a mallet, I even left it clamped in the vice last night
> such that the vice was pushing the angle open. It still pops back to a 90
> deg angle. What's the secret?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Air Filter--clean or replace |
I'm not Will by a long shot, but I followed his tip-up instructions and I am
now installing the engine instruments (a few, the rest are on back order
from Van's) and the avionics. It is easy to work around the big canopy. It
swings up and out of the way just fine.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A panel
-----Original Message-----
Did you have your Instrument panel completed , before you
started the
canopy, that is, as to the holes in it, for all avionics
etc. can one
complete the fiting of the canopy, and fwd. top skin, then
finish the
Ins. panel...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions.... |
Thought them expensive for what they were & a little cheap in quality &
apperance. I used a bayonette bulb with a rubber cap with a small hole or
two-depending on application & need. A rottary punch put small round holes in
the rubber caps & I used
a 28 volt bulb in a 14 volt aircraft. Looks very nice - not hi tech - but
certainly matches the steam guages. The rottary punch is a six dollar punch used
for leather belts and
such. The rubber caps are attained at pep boys & Home Depo--they fit over the
bulb
and add white light out of the small hole punched in them. The colored rubber
caps
add a glow effect if needed along with the white light via a punched hole. I've
received many compliments on them because of the professional look of them. They
are cheap to install too. The 28 volt light is perfect at night when run on 14
volts.......
rv8er(at)home.com on 12/21/99 09:10:15 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions....
The fiberlites are substandard in quality, IMHO. I used the light wedges
by UMA. They produce a much brighter, more evenly colored light, and the
construction of the wedge was much more sturdy. You don't need any
additional space for your instruments. The only thing you need to do is
machine out a groove for the dogleg on your altimeter. You can see them at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/panel2.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 6:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions....
>
> Ya'll,
>
> Just wondering if anyone has used and has any experiences with the
Fibrelite
> lighting system for aicraft instruments?? It is sold through aircraft
> spruce
> and apparently lights 8-16 instruments with a remote bulb. Do they
require
> any additional spacing between the instruments (vertically or laterally)
> similar to instruments with internal lighting.....I understand they are
> "sandwiched" between the panel and the instrument. Any comments
> appreciated...thanks...
>
> Kurt, 6A Emp
> Okie City....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Epoxy |
West Systems has 8 dollar ratio pumps thast screw into the epoxy
cans.......can't
get any easier or cheaper. I've tried everything mentioned and the minpumps are
best by far. The mini-pumps resemble the kutchup/mustard pumps at the local
burger joint. West pumps come in 3-1 & 5-1 ratios for the two West systems. I
use
the West 3-1 pumps on Aero-Epoxy---a 3-1 epoxy.......For the batchs' we metal
plane
builders need this is a perfect solution. Your local boat store has the
supplies.
airplane(at)megsinet.net on 12/21/99 09:40:55 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mixing Epoxy
There are a couple of other options:
1. Check with an EZ builder. Rutan had plans for a simple balance to
measure epoxy. You would have to modify per your required ratio.
2. An inexpensive electronic scale accurate to a gram or less can be
purchased in the $100.00 range. This would have a multiplicity of uses.
Check science supply catalogs at your local high school or possibly local
stores for food or postal balances. They have a tare button that will zero
out the scale with the weight of the empty cup on it.
3. Use plastic cups that are calibrated so you can mix by proper volume
ratio. Urinalysis cups might be available that are calibrated. Inexpensive
plastic beakers or graduated cylinders from a scientific supply are also
available in different sizes.
You probably should try to be within 5% on the mix if it is a true epoxy.
Epoxy is not a catalyzed product. It is cross linked and therefore depends
on a proper ration of molecules for most complete cross linking.
Art Glaser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Epoxy |
ditto...I have used the West Systems pumps and their epoxy for all of my
fiberglass work...it is a no brainer..just push the pumps down and it shoots
the perfect amount out everytime...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mixing Epoxy
>
>
> West Systems has 8 dollar ratio pumps thast screw into the epoxy
> cans.......can't
> get any easier or cheaper. I've tried everything mentioned and the
minpumps are
> best by far. The mini-pumps resemble the kutchup/mustard pumps at the
local
> burger joint. West pumps come in 3-1 & 5-1 ratios for the two West
systems. I
> use
> the West 3-1 pumps on Aero-Epoxy---a 3-1 epoxy.......For the batchs' we
metal
> plane
> builders need this is a perfect solution. Your local boat store has the
> supplies.
>
>
> airplane(at)megsinet.net on 12/21/99 09:40:55 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mixing Epoxy
>
>
> There are a couple of other options:
>
> 1. Check with an EZ builder. Rutan had plans for a simple balance to
> measure epoxy. You would have to modify per your required ratio.
>
> 2. An inexpensive electronic scale accurate to a gram or less can be
> purchased in the $100.00 range. This would have a multiplicity of uses.
> Check science supply catalogs at your local high school or possibly local
> stores for food or postal balances. They have a tare button that will
zero
> out the scale with the weight of the empty cup on it.
>
> 3. Use plastic cups that are calibrated so you can mix by proper volume
> ratio. Urinalysis cups might be available that are calibrated.
Inexpensive
> plastic beakers or graduated cylinders from a scientific supply are also
> available in different sizes.
>
> You probably should try to be within 5% on the mix if it is a true epoxy.
> Epoxy is not a catalyzed product. It is cross linked and therefore
depends
> on a proper ration of molecules for most complete cross linking.
>
> Art Glaser
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with F-422 |
I straddled it over a 2" steel pipe, layed a 1x1x1/8 hardware store angle
(has sharp inside edge) over the back and whacked it a few times with
heavy mallet / hammer, the hardware angle helps protect the edge of
the structural angle, even then one flange opened more than the other
so I layed the angle on my large belt sander and ground flat the angle
flange with the dip in it, fabricated the part, etched, alodined & primed.
Wayne RV4
> I need help with something... I am fabricating the F-442 mount pads that I
> believe the rudder pedals attach to. I see from the plans that the angle
> needs to be bent outward 5 deg. Exactly how do you do this? I tried
> pounding it with a mallet, I even left it clamped in the vice last night
> such that the vice was pushing the angle open. It still pops back to a 90
> deg angle. What's the secret?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unpainted RV's |
Pipers corrode quite a bit on the main spars...
I owned a '78 Warrior for a number of years and I could never figure out
why the inside skins behind the baggage compartment on the left side of the
fuselage were primed with zinc chromate and the inside skins on the right
side were bare metal.
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
RV-9A Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Also Lurking |
>Ummmm.... check the archives on this, guys - been a while since my emp.
>but IIRC there are some sealants which have bad stuff in them for
>aluminum. Something to check....
Ah yes, the old "corrosive RTV myth. Not to worry. Check the RV-List FAQ.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | Fixed pitch vs c/s prop |
>I'm having a hard time justifying the initial cost, complexity and increased
>operating costs of a c/s prop based on increased climb and cruise performance
>alone. I'm planning on the 180 hp O-360 engine in my 6AQB.....
One Colorado builder had tried both CS and wood on his O-320 and then O-360
RV-4. His thoughts: if you have the O-320, the CS prop may not be worth the
weight and complexity. If you have the O-360, it was worth having the CS
prop. At least that is what he thought....in his humble opinion......
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
| Subject: | switch direction |
>I've decided to add a generic "switches up for ON " label across the
>bottom of the panel below the switch bank.
Sometimes it is better to beg for forgiveness than ask permission.
I believe there is a convention for switch position: up/forward/lateral for
"on". Unless there is an unusual switch (double throw, for example) I would
resist putting the "up for on" label on the panel. If your inspector makes
you put it on, have a place reserved for it. You could even have one already
made up to show him *if he asks*. My switches are labeled for function only
as they are all forward and up for on.
Just my humble opinion...........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
As I recall back in 1990 or so when I was building my RV 6 Allen Tolle was
the only one building the crossover system for the 0360. I installed his
system and it has been trouble free for eight years except for one minor
1/2 in. crack in a weld . This occurred in the first fifty hours.
Although Allen is a friend of mine I haven't been in touch with him lately,
but it is my understanding that he no longer builds exhaust systems. On the
basis of this and hearing all the good reports about Larry Vetterman I have
recently purchased the crossover system for my 6A from him. It is still in
the box but must say I am really impressed with his workmanship.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. 6A in progress
----------
> From: charles young <charles(at)onramp.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: dustin(at)busprod.com
> Date: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 2:03 PM
>
>
> Dustin:
>
> I have a new, never used, exhaust system build by Allen Tolle.
>
> Mr. Tolle has built several RV's and is a close friend of Vans, he builds
> these exhaust on a demand basis, or so I am told.
>
> It was purchased by me with a lot of other RV parts several years ago.
>
> I am in the Dallas, Texas area.
>
> Would like to get $250.00 plus shipping.
>
> Charles Young
> RV-6A
> http://rampages.onramp.net/~charles
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unpainted RV's |
That's because the guys on the right side of the factory ran out of primer
before the guys on the left side! :-)
Do not archvie.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schrimmer [mailto:mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 9:31 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Unpainted RV's
Pipers corrode quite a bit on the main spars...
I owned a '78 Warrior for a number of years and I could
never figure out
why the inside skins behind the baggage compartment on the
left side of the
fuselage were primed with zinc chromate and the inside skins
on the right
side were bare metal.
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
RV-9A Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Repacking Wheel Bearings |
In message <199912182347.PAA06867(at)matronics.com>, Gary A. Sobek
writes
>
>You should just be able to repack the bearings with
>grease.
One other point about repacking bearings. Cover all the internal exposed
metal of the hub and axle with a thin coating of grease, this then helps
stop any condensation forming on bare metal within the bearing housing,
which in this case is the wheel.
This is harder to describe than do.
RV8 80274
--
Rob Hatwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
My only addition to Stuart's comment is that Garmin has a new, color
"upgrade" from the 195. I believe it is the "295". The color screen is
phenomenally bright, and worth the extra bucks. Don't have mine yet, but I
hear Santa's planning a visit.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
I have the 195 and have looked at the 295 very closely. If you are always
in a place where you can plug it in the 295 is probably a very nice
investment. However, the 295 only runs 4 hours on batteries whereas the
195 runs 10 hours. Just food for thought.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions.... |
Kurt,
I am installing the fiberlite system right now so I don't know about long
term use. The installation is easy and very simple. The ring is a small
plastic ring that goes between the panel and instrument, like you said. It
takes up about 1/8" of space in depth. I have noticed that it does cover
the face a very little bit so that if you have a serious angle to look at an
instrument it could get in the way a little bit but otherwise it doesn't
interfere at all and looks very nice on the panel. The mounting of the
central bulb/cluster is a bit funky. It just hangs off whatever you find
with a tiewrap. I guess this is so you can get at it to change the bulb if
needed but it does not seem very secure. AGain, I have not used it yet in
flight so this may not be an issue. I am looking forward to seeing how it
works.
Mike Robertson
RV8A QB
>From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions....
>Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:46:41 EST
>
>
>Ya'll,
>
>Just wondering if anyone has used and has any experiences with the
>Fibrelite
> lighting system for aicraft instruments?? It is sold through aircraft
>spruce
> and apparently lights 8-16 instruments with a remote bulb. Do they
>require
> any additional spacing between the instruments (vertically or laterally)
> similar to instruments with internal lighting.....I understand they are
> "sandwiched" between the panel and the instrument. Any comments
> appreciated...thanks...
>
> Kurt, 6A Emp
> Okie City....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Total Loss of Respect for the FAA |
Sure I used to be a pretty big advocate of the FAA. Today that changed
though because they issued an airplane that I built an airworthiness
certificate. I didn't get away without any problems though. I did have a
problem of the aileron push tubes binding against the flaps when the flaps
were in certain positions. Since the flaps were always down when I was
building I did not test it with the flaps up. I wound up having to grind
3/16" off the aileron side of each flap to clear the push rod tube. If you
have welded your push-rod tube you might get by with cutting less off.
We'll anyway just wanted to pass this on.
Gary Fesenbek
N152
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Epoxy |
West system pumps are probably a good idea. You can get a couple of different
ratios and pumps for large cans as well as very small cans. I bought small
empty cans and pumps directly from west several years ago and poured the glue in
from the large cans. This was convenient and saved material. Art Glaser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS and Laptops |
I used to do a lot of GPS and computer stuff before I became a builder...
The following link is probably THE best place on the net for GPS/Laptop
interface info. Particularly for the Garmin enthusiasts out there.
http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter/index.html
Jeff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Unpainted RV's |
mark
is it possible the airframe had repairs prior to your purchase, either that
or it was done friday afternoon : )
scott
tampa
rv6a fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Total Loss of Respect for the FAA |
Gary,
When do you plan on loosing all respect for ATC and flying that thing you
built?
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Total Loss of Respect for the FAA
>Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 12:54:07 -0600
>
>
>Sure I used to be a pretty big advocate of the FAA. Today that changed
>though because they issued an airplane that I built an airworthiness
>certificate. I didn't get away without any problems though. I did have a
>problem of the aileron push tubes binding against the flaps when the flaps
>were in certain positions. Since the flaps were always down when I was
>building I did not test it with the flaps up. I wound up having to grind
>3/16" off the aileron side of each flap to clear the push rod tube. If you
>have welded your push-rod tube you might get by with cutting less off.
>We'll anyway just wanted to pass this on.
>
>Gary Fesenbek
>N152
>RV6A
>Dallas, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
In a message dated 12/20/99 5:32:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil writes:
<< Ive decided to add a generic "switches up for ON " label across the
bottom of the panel below the switch bank. >>
Mike
I'm sure that will work for the person inspecting the airplane. I guess with
all of the different types of switches and equiptment an experimental is
likely to have that it does make at least "some" sense to label some of this
information.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
Mixed properly, a day should be ok. If not do not rush it. The biggest
mistake people make is mixing it too "hot" to spead cure. This substantially
reduces it's strength and life.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Christie <billc(at)dancris.com>
Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 7:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: pro seal
>
>I have finally started on my first tank and did the stiffeners. The
question
>I have is how long does this stuff take to dry? The instructions on the can
>leave a bit to be desired regarding such data. Living in Phoenix with temps
>currently in the 70s, I didn't think that would be a problem.
>
>Bill Christie RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tall RV-6 Drivers |
Dave: I am 6' 4" tall, tall from the waist, I had a RV-6 for six years, what
I did was use a thin cushion in the left seat. I also removed the back
support locking bracket, this allowed the seat back to rest on the cross
member at the top longerions. This allowed my head about 1 inch clearance.
Van's has a modification to lower the seat ribs about 3/4 inch. It is
possible also to custom fit the canopy to give more headroom, but I don't
know if anybody has made this modification. I am now building a RV-6AQB, I
will find out soon if I will fit, I bet I can.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB- Closing the tail Cone.
----- Original Message -----
From: Petri David S CDR <David.Petri(at)peterson.af.mil>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 9:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tall RV-6 Drivers
>
> Listers,
> I checked the archive to no avail, but I'm certain this discussion has
> already occurred...
>
> I'm 6'6" and very interested in the RV, but the wife wants a
side-by-side...
> which certainly limits the choices. I know the RV-8 and I are compatible,
> but how's the fit for tall guys in the RV-6?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel placards |
>
>In a message dated 12/20/99 5:32:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil writes:
>
><< Ive decided to add a generic "switches up for ON " label across the
> bottom of the panel below the switch bank. >>
>Mike
>I'm sure that will work for the person inspecting the airplane. I guess with
>all of the different types of switches and equiptment an experimental is
>likely to have that it does make at least "some" sense to label some of this
>information.
>Jim Nice
Jim,
What I dislike about this generic CYA label is that it isnt entirely
true. Amongst all the SPST switches that are up-for-on I have one switch
that is center off, and 2 that are DPDT selector switches with no off
position. These 3 switches are clearly labeled as to what they do in each
position. These switches could be rearranged and seperated out from all the
switches that are up-for-on, but I grouped the switches so that related
functions are adjacent to one another. It makes no sense to me to ruin what
I feel is the best intuitive layout to conform to some arbitrary
requirement (which Im still not really sure is a requirement). So I'll put
the somewhat misleading label on the panel and call it done. I really
wouldnt want to have to disassemble the panel and send the overlay back to
Steve Davis to add the label at inspection time.
Mike Wills
RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagent.com> |
| Subject: | Moving to Boston! |
I'm dragging my family out to the Boston area (Bedford/Lexington/Lincoln) in
order to start my dream job, combining software engineering and aviation!
Is there anybody in the area building an RV? If so, let me know so we can
meet! I'll be moving out in the middle of January. Hopefully, this will be
the *last* time I have to use a moving van to get my airplane somewhere.
This is getting embarrasing. ;)
I'll be heading up Avidyne's FlightMax (Flight Situation Display) project,
and hopefully starting some new projects there. So if you have any input
for me, let me know! What do you want to see available for your panel?
This is your big chance!
- Mitch
Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA (for now) 727MF (reserved)
RV-6A Engine baffle / plenum / cowl
Pres. / Newsletter Editor: Bay Area RVators (for now)
http://www.skybound.com/BARV
http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
So, has anybody signed on with SourceRV so they can tell us how things
do/don't work at this site??
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tall RV-6 Drivers |
I am 6' 4", my wife 5' 10", and both a few lb. over normal gross (that sounds
worst than it is). My upper body is long, short legs. If correctly
assembled, I would be over 6' 6". My seat cushions were made, about 1.5"
thick, as opposed to about 2.5" for the passenger side. That is the only
accommodation made to size. With the slider, I have 2-3" clearance to
canopy. I raised the canopy a little per the instructions. Neither of us
use the thing on the rear of the seats to prop the seat out from the
crossmember. The instructions allude to a special mod to lower the seat pan
another inch or so, sounded like too much work.
I am generally comfortable unless I load another person about my size in the
other seat. At that point we start to play shoulder tag. If you are 6-6,
you should be used to some discomfort in life, cars gliders, and airliners
are not designed for us. I would look into lowering the seat pan, use thin
cushions, and go for the -6A. Side by side is better, try passing a cup of
coffee around in a -8 sometime. (Please, this is not a declaration of war,
just an opinion).
Bruce Patton
-6A, flying as much as I can
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bobdz" <bobdz(at)email.msn.com> |
>
> So, has anybody signed on with SourceRV so they can tell us how things
> do/don't work at this site??
> Jim Nice
Jim
I've signed up. The free access period has been extended to January 15th. So
far there are just a few back issues of Van's newsletter. It does sound like
it will be worth the money. Time will tell.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
I signed up and it looks like it is going to be worthwhile, but it does
not start until 1-15-00. He does not start your subscription until then.
You can get info by going to that site.
-----Original Message-----
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com [SMTP:JNice51355(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 7:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: SourceRV
So, has anybody signed on with SourceRV so they can tell us how things
do/don't work at this site??
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
OKay all you RV6A'ers!!
HOHOHO, We have finally constructed a perfect mold for the RV6A gearleg
intersection fairings. It took a bit of time to get there, but we will sell
no parts until there time (kinda like fine wine :
) ) Anyway, the cost is
$150 for the set of uppers and lowers. We only have the mains, so you will
have to fend for yourself for the nose-dragger portion. Lemme know offline if
you are interested.
Merry Christmas!!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: parts cleaning solvents |
> The problem with using gasoline and Methylene Chloride is that the
gasoline
>is very flammable and both are carcinogens. While the new safe(er)
solvents are
>more expensive and don't work as well as these very volatile solvents, your
>health is invaluable. We are exposed to many toxic and dangerous chemicals
>while working on our projects and need to limit that as much as possible.
Many
>chemicals are more dangerous the more you are exposed to them.
Try the automotive stores for Brake Cleaner in aerosol cans.
These are charged with the heavier 'chlors which are much
friendlier to humans but strong solvents to grease and oils
(not unlike the stuff dry cleaning machines use). You can also
use carburetor cleaner . . . much less expensive (lacquer thinner
in a can) also flammable, but not nearly as unhealthy as MethChlor.
All these things can be used outside, wind to your back
with considerable safety. We use the carburetor cleaner as
a flux remover for etched circuit boards.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with F-422 |
Scott VanArsdale wrote:
>I need help with something... I am fabricating the F-442 mount pads that I
>believe the rudder pedals attach to. I see from the plans that the angle
>needs to be bent outward 5 deg. Exactly how do you do this? I tried
>pounding it with a mallet, I even left it clamped in the vice last night
>such that the vice was pushing the angle open. It still pops back to a 90
>deg angle. What's the secret?
All of the various "beat it with a big hammer" quotes seem workable. I
found access to an arbor press, laid the angle over a pipe as another poster
suggested and after protecting the sharp corner with some sheet stock
carefully applied the pressure. Worked fine.
Dick Sipp
RV4-250DS
180 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
Bill,
Congratulations! You still have to be on cloud 9. I too am
looking forward to more of your experiences and numbers. Man do I envy
you. It certainly is a real accomplishment. This kind of post makes me
want to finish even faster! Congratulations again. I hope some day we
can fly together.
Joe
#80125 (I know I can't beat Brian Denk into the air, but maybe I have a
shot at Mike Robertson!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nippon-Dienso 50 AMP Alternator |
>
>I was told by a number of people that the problem with an internal regulator
>is that once they are running they cannot be shut down by removing the power
>from the regulator, this was not correct - pull the power from the regulator
>and the Alternator stops, I verified this on two different installations.
The "little" wire going into the back of most internally
regulated alternators is indeed a control wire that applies
a bias to transistors in the regulator to turn the alternator
on and off . . . this is a digital signal that comes out of
the engine's systems control computer so that the computer can
turn the alternator on after the engine is running well on a
cold morning . . . let it get going before loading it down
with the alternator.
If the regulator fails, it can create a direct connection from
field to the alternator's output terminal . . . the classic
runaway problem. Removing the ON command from the little wire
has no control over this failure mode. Hence our recommendation
for the external relay in series with the alternator's b-lead
show in wiring diagrams on our website.
>A local flying club had an Alternator failure on their C-172, the output
lead
>of the alternator shorted to the field lead. All the avionics got smoked
>along with a lot of wiring, luckily this happened on the ground. The circuit
>breaker did not trip and was a flush model so there was no way to stop the
>alternator :(
OV conditions generally will not trip the 60A breaker . . . an
ALL TOO COMMON misconception. That 60A breaker protects wires
only.
>Show me where I am wrong but I don't think the B&C regulator and over
voltage
>protection would have saved this?
No, it wouldn't. This airplane suffered from some pretty
harsh conditions and poor inspections. I'd guess that
it was NOT wired with tefzel wire either. I've heard of
this happening before where the field lead comes through
a common grommet with the alternator b-lead. This is another
reason why I like the b-lead to get an 80 amp fuse on the
panel so that the b-lead doesn't come through the firewall
with ANY wires, much less the field wire.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight - N47TD |
0100,0100,0100
It all started three and a half years
ago. The week the Air Force
selected me for Major I ordered my RV-6A quickbuild kit from Van's,
and started converting the garage in our San Antonio, TX house to an
aircraft factory. After 2000 hours of work, one baby, one cross-
country do-it-yourself move, and with the cooperation of one VERY
tolerant wife, N47TD was certified by the FAA.
First flight of my new RV-6A was scheduled for 10AM on 18 Dec 99.
My ground support team (two fellow officers from the Pentagon, both
pilots) and the Manassas volunteer Emergency Medical Services crew
were on hand, as were my wife and 20-month-old son. Out of the
woodwork appeared another 10 or so folks, so there was quite a
crowd. I put on my Nomex gloves and hood, and strapped on my
stupid looking bicycle helmet (safety first). The engine started right
up... and was soon making horrible "POP" noises every few seconds.
The EIS engine monitor showed number 4 CHT was barely above
room temperature, while the other CHTs were rising up to 200 degrees.
Number 4 EGT is 300 degrees, while all the others are well above 1000
degrees. Nuts. Shut down the engine. The ground support team
confirmed loud "pop" noises coming from the engine.
We pulled the cowl and confirmed number 4 was cold, while the other
cylinders were hot. We cleaned the plugs. No good. We swapped
plugs. No good. The crowd starts to disburse. I sent EMS home.
We verify both the mag and the electronic ignition are producing
sparks at their respective spark plugs on cylinder 4.
Frantic phone call to Chapter 186 Tech Counselor Dick Koehler (A&P,
IA, A/C MX instructor, retired USN pilot, etc etc) gives some good
ideas to start diagnostics. Compression check reveals number 4 has
good compression, so the exhaust valve isn't stuck open. We pull the
valve cover and note that both the intake and the exhaust valves work
just fine, and number 4's combustion cycle is right before number 1's
combustion cycle, so there's not some horrible problem with the cam.
In hopes that there's some valve sticking due to different coefficients
of expansion on the new engine, we heat the cylinder up with a
propane engine heater (Red Dragon) and try it again. The problem is
still there.
Yet another call to Dick, and we start ticking off the physics basics.
Dick calls this "an easter egg hunt." Do we have spark? Yes. Do we
have rotation? Yes. Do we have compression? Yes. Do we have the
proper mixture? Don't know. Maybe something got in the carb and
jammed up inside the intake to number 4. Maybe the hose from the
carburetor to number 4's intake split or something... VOILA, I know
what it is!!! It has to be something to do with the Standby Vacuum
System that takes it's vacuum from number 4's intake. Run back
outside. Yell to the ground team "I know, I know, it's that &
%$
standby vacuum system."
The Precise Flight Standby Vacuum System (SVS) uses the low
pressure from an intake manifold (#4 on my plane) to provide an
emergency backup source of vacuum to run the artificial horizon and
directional gyro in case of vacuum pump failure during IFR flight. The
SVS is installed by drilling a 3/8" hole in the hose that connects #4's
intake pipe to the carburetor. On to that 3/8" hole is clamped a flat
plate with a tube connector which leads to the SVS system on the
firewall.
On my installation I think I had used insufficient RTV between the
plate and the intake hose, leading to potential leaks. In addition, the
SVS system has one clamp the flat SVS plate on to the curved intake
hose. This distorts the hose, leading to the potential for leakage
through the distortion.
I used fluting pliers to impart a curve to the flat SVS plate, applied lots
of RTV between the SVS plate and the hose, and applied RTV to the
remaining distortion areas in the intake hose.
Cross finger, start engine, watch the CHT and EGT on number 4 soar
along with the other cylinders. Problem solved!
Ready for first flight! Most of my pre-flight jitters have been
consumed by the effort to fix the engine. Manassas lets me do high
speed taxi tests on taxiway Alpha, then I get to sit idling for 20
minutes waiting for departure clearance from Manassas tower. CHTs
are around 350 degrees. This is not what my new engine needs, but I
don't have much choice if I want to fly today. I call tower and tell her
that I'm STILL number one at Kilo. Ooops, she says, she'll get me off
right away.
"N47TD, cleared for immediate departure, traffic turning base to final."
Yahoo! Full throttle, watch the airspeed come up, nose up, and I'm
flying! The stall horn is blaring away, but I ignore it because my climb
attitude is right, controls feel right, and I'm accelerating and climbing.
I climb out at a climb cruise speed, because Vx feels way to steep for
first flight. The engine monitor light starts flashing, and my heart
jumps into my throat. What is it? Oh, RPM has climbed to 2710 (limit
is 2700). Pull the prop back to 2600 rpm and keep climbing with full
throttle to take advantage of the extra cooling from the rich mixture at
full throttle (see Dick Koehler's recent Stick and Rudder article). 2000'
arrives in no time, and I have to level out so I don't bust Dulles' class
B airspace.
Another red flashing light. What is it now? One of the CHTs is above
430 degrees (that's my warning limit, although Lycoming calls redline
500 degrees). OK, let's think about this. The cylinders got good and
toasty on the ground, and this is a brand new engine, so high CHTs
aren't unusual at the beginning. I've been running high power per the
Lycoming break-in instruction. OK, let's pull the power back and see if
it'll cool down. Level flight departing the pattern, CHT starts to drop
one degree every few seconds. At 430 degrees the flashing light goes
off. Relax, time to head to Warrenton and do some stalls.
First, however, it'd be a good idea not to fly into the restricted area
that my Garmin 195 says is about 1 mile in front of me. (Let's see now,
what were my priorities supposed to be? Aviate; fiddle with engine;
navigate?).
Climb to 7000' enroute to Warrenton, CHTs are just fine. Slow to 90
knots. Stupid stall horn is on all the time. Pull the breaker, make a
note to adjust the thing later. (Here=92s yet another example of the
utility of standard, accessible breakers). Slowly decelerate, bring the
nose up, wait for the burble. Wow, indicated airspeed is under 40
when it finally starts to shudder. (My pitot/static tube has static
ports on the top and bottom of the pitot tube, so it's likely my airspeed
error is significant at high angles of attack -- actual stall speed is
probably around 50 knots.) Lower the nose, try it again. No
surprises, no wing drop. The test plan says no full stalls on first
flight. Try deploying flaps. They won=92t move. Ahh, they=92re on the
same circuit as the stall horn. I don=92t want to listen to that thing, so
let=92s just forget about flaps on this flight. Next, practice flying the
pattern at 3000-4000'. No surprises there.
I head back to Manassas, being sure to get down under the class B,
and call Manassas 10 miles out. The tower calls my traffic on base to
final, tells me I'm number 2, and tells the next guy that he's number 3
behind "the fast mover experimental." Now that's funny! My little 2-
seater that's spent the last 3 1/2 years going zero mph in the garage is
now a "fast mover."
Approach is at 78 kts like Van's factory instructor, Mike Seager, taught
me for first flights (70 knots after more experience and flight tests).
Over the numbers, flare, keep the nose up, keep the nose up, on the
brakes while the nose is still in the, lower the nose, and I turn off the
runway at the first turn off! What a great feeling! In order of
importance:
1. I'm not dead!
2. It flew great!
Stats:
- Aircraft: RV-6A Serial Number #60023
- Engine: O-360 A1A with Hartzel C/S prop
- Ignition: Lightspeed Electronic Ignition plus 1 mag
- Engine Monitor: EIS 4000 (all 4 CHT and all 4 ETG simultaneously,
plus RPM, MP, Oil Temp and Pressure, fuel pressure, OAT, bus
voltage, and more --great system)
- IFR panel
- Navaid autopilot
- Garmin 195 panel mounted, wired to Navaid
- D.J. Lauritson interior
- Paint: Imron over Corlar, done by yours truly (first time painter)
- Electrical Power: 60 Amp automotive alternator modified for external
regulator (see my web page, { HYPERLINK http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a }
0000,0000,FF00
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a>
0100,0100,0100
for
instructions)
- Weight: 1162 lbs
- Constructed in about 2000 hrs over 3.5 years
I'd recently completed a BFR in a Cessna 172 after 3 years of not
flying. Then I spent 2.8 hours with Mike Seager (factory instructor
pilot, near Portland Oregon), who pronounced me fit to do an RV first
flight.
Thanks to:
-My wife Debbie for putting up with this project for the last 3.5 years
(and loaning me the $$$ for the engine)
-EAA tech counselors Brian Tobias (EAA Chapter 35, San Antonio),
Dick Koehler (EAA Chapter 186, Virginia) and Chuck Shedd (Chapter
186)
-Jim Cone for great canopy instructions
-Van and crew for a sweet flying airplane
-Mike Seager for quality flight instruction in the factory RV-6A
-Matt Dralle=92s RV-list, including GV, Mark Frederick, Mark
LaBoyteaux, and the gang
-Lt Col Ralph Strother =96 riveting, bucking, test, ground support
Tim Lewis
N47TD FLYING!!!!!
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight - N47TD |
Congratulations "Seven Top Dog", really great report too. Unfortunately,
I'm now several shades greener than the Mistletoe hanging from the
ceiling!!! Good going and Merry Christmas!
Marty in Brentwood Tn (near BNA).
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 9:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: First Flight - N47TD
>
>
0100,0100,0100
It all started three and a half years
> ago. The week the Air Force
> selected me for Major I ordered my RV-6A quickbuild kit from Van's,
> and started converting the garage in our San Antonio, TX house to an
> aircraft factory. After 2000 hours of work, one baby, one cross-
> country do-it-yourself move, and with the cooperation of one VERY
> tolerant wife, N47TD was certified by the FAA.
>
>
> First flight of my new RV-6A was scheduled for 10AM on 18 Dec 99.
> My ground support team (two fellow officers from the Pentagon, both
> pilots) and the Manassas volunteer Emergency Medical Services crew
> were on hand, as were my wife and 20-month-old son. Out of the
> woodwork appeared another 10 or so folks, so there was quite a
> crowd. I put on my Nomex gloves and hood, and strapped on my
> stupid looking bicycle helmet (safety first). The engine started right
> up... and was soon making horrible "POP" noises every few seconds.
> The EIS engine monitor showed number 4 CHT was barely above
> room temperature, while the other CHTs were rising up to 200 degrees.
> Number 4 EGT is 300 degrees, while all the others are well above 1000
> degrees. Nuts. Shut down the engine. The ground support team
> confirmed loud "pop" noises coming from the engine.
>
>
> We pulled the cowl and confirmed number 4 was cold, while the other
> cylinders were hot. We cleaned the plugs. No good. We swapped
> plugs. No good. The crowd starts to disburse. I sent EMS home.
> We verify both the mag and the electronic ignition are producing
> sparks at their respective spark plugs on cylinder 4.
>
>
> Frantic phone call to Chapter 186 Tech Counselor Dick Koehler (A&P,
> IA, A/C MX instructor, retired USN pilot, etc etc) gives some good
> ideas to start diagnostics. Compression check reveals number 4 has
> good compression, so the exhaust valve isn't stuck open. We pull the
> valve cover and note that both the intake and the exhaust valves work
> just fine, and number 4's combustion cycle is right before number 1's
> combustion cycle, so there's not some horrible problem with the cam.
> In hopes that there's some valve sticking due to different coefficients
> of expansion on the new engine, we heat the cylinder up with a
> propane engine heater (Red Dragon) and try it again. The problem is
> still there.
>
>
> Yet another call to Dick, and we start ticking off the physics basics.
> Dick calls this "an easter egg hunt." Do we have spark? Yes. Do we
> have rotation? Yes. Do we have compression? Yes. Do we have the
> proper mixture? Don't know. Maybe something got in the carb and
> jammed up inside the intake to number 4. Maybe the hose from the
> carburetor to number 4's intake split or something... VOILA, I know
> what it is!!! It has to be something to do with the Standby Vacuum
> System that takes it's vacuum from number 4's intake. Run back
> outside. Yell to the ground team "I know, I know, it's that &
%$
> standby vacuum system."
>
>
> The Precise Flight Standby Vacuum System (SVS) uses the low
> pressure from an intake manifold (#4 on my plane) to provide an
> emergency backup source of vacuum to run the artificial horizon and
> directional gyro in case of vacuum pump failure during IFR flight. The
> SVS is installed by drilling a 3/8" hole in the hose that connects #4's
> intake pipe to the carburetor. On to that 3/8" hole is clamped a flat
> plate with a tube connector which leads to the SVS system on the
> firewall.
>
>
> On my installation I think I had used insufficient RTV between the
> plate and the intake hose, leading to potential leaks. In addition, the
> SVS system has one clamp the flat SVS plate on to the curved intake
> hose. This distorts the hose, leading to the potential for leakage
> through the distortion.
>
>
> I used fluting pliers to impart a curve to the flat SVS plate, applied
lot> s
> of RTV between the SVS plate and the hose, and applied RTV to the
> remaining distortion areas in the intake hose.
>
>
> Cross finger, start engine, watch the CHT and EGT on number 4 soar
> along with the other cylinders. Problem solved!
>
>
> Ready for first flight! Most of my pre-flight jitters have been
> consumed by the effort to fix the engine. Manassas lets me do high
> speed taxi tests on taxiway Alpha, then I get to sit idling for 20
> minutes waiting for departure clearance from Manassas tower. CHTs
> are around 350 degrees. This is not what my new engine needs, but I
> don't have much choice if I want to fly today. I call tower and tell
her>
> that I'm STILL number one at Kilo. Ooops, she says, she'll get me off
> right away.
>
>
> "N47TD, cleared for immediate departure, traffic turning base to final."
> Yahoo! Full throttle, watch the airspeed come up, nose up, and I'm
> flying! The stall horn is blaring away, but I ignore it because my climb
> attitude is right, controls feel right, and I'm accelerating and
climbing.>
> I climb out at a climb cruise speed, because Vx feels way to steep for
> first flight. The engine monitor light starts flashing, and my heart
> jumps into my throat. What is it? Oh, RPM has climbed to 2710 (limit
> is 2700). Pull the prop back to 2600 rpm and keep climbing with full
> throttle to take advantage of the extra cooling from the rich mixture at
> full throttle (see Dick Koehler's recent Stick and Rudder article).
2000'>
> arrives in no time, and I have to level out so I don't bust Dulles' class
> B airspace.
>
>
> Another red flashing light. What is it now? One of the CHTs is above
> 430 degrees (that's my warning limit, although Lycoming calls redline
> 500 degrees). OK, let's think about this. The cylinders got good and
> toasty on the ground, and this is a brand new engine, so high CHTs
> aren't unusual at the beginning. I've been running high power per the
> Lycoming break-in instruction. OK, let's pull the power back and see if
> it'll cool down. Level flight departing the pattern, CHT starts to drop
> one degree every few seconds. At 430 degrees the flashing light goes
> off. Relax, time to head to Warrenton and do some stalls.
>
>
> First, however, it'd be a good idea not to fly into the restricted area
> that my Garmin 195 says is about 1 mile in front of me. (Let's see now,
> what were my priorities supposed to be? Aviate; fiddle with engine;
> navigate?).
>
>
> Climb to 7000' enroute to Warrenton, CHTs are just fine. Slow to 90
> knots. Stupid stall horn is on all the time. Pull the breaker, make a
> note to adjust the thing later. (Here=92s yet another example of the
> utility of standard, accessible breakers). Slowly decelerate, bring the
> nose up, wait for the burble. Wow, indicated airspeed is under 40
> when it finally starts to shudder. (My pitot/static tube has static
> ports on the top and bottom of the pitot tube, so it's likely my airspeed
> error is significant at high angles of attack -- actual stall speed is
> probably around 50 knots.) Lower the nose, try it again. No
> surprises, no wing drop. The test plan says no full stalls on first
> flight. Try deploying flaps. They won=92t move. Ahh, they=92re on the
> same circuit as the stall horn. I don=92t want to listen to that thing,
s> o
> let=92s just forget about flaps on this flight. Next, practice flying
the>
> pattern at 3000-4000'. No surprises there.
>
>
> I head back to Manassas, being sure to get down under the class B,
> and call Manassas 10 miles out. The tower calls my traffic on base to
> final, tells me I'm number 2, and tells the next guy that he's number 3
> behind "the fast mover experimental." Now that's funny! My little 2-
> seater that's spent the last 3 1/2 years going zero mph in the garage is
> now a "fast mover."
>
>
> Approach is at 78 kts like Van's factory instructor, Mike Seager, taught
> me for first flights (70 knots after more experience and flight tests).
> Over the numbers, flare, keep the nose up, keep the nose up, on the
> brakes while the nose is still in the, lower the nose, and I turn off the
> runway at the first turn off! What a great feeling! In order of
> importance:
>
> 1. I'm not dead!
>
> 2. It flew great!
>
>
> Stats:
>
> - Aircraft: RV-6A Serial Number #60023
>
> - Engine: O-360 A1A with Hartzel C/S prop
>
> - Ignition: Lightspeed Electronic Ignition plus 1 mag
>
> - Engine Monitor: EIS 4000 (all 4 CHT and all 4 ETG simultaneously,
> plus RPM, MP, Oil Temp and Pressure, fuel pressure, OAT, bus
> voltage, and more --great system)
>
> - IFR panel
>
> - Navaid autopilot
>
> - Garmin 195 panel mounted, wired to Navaid
>
> - D.J. Lauritson interior
>
> - Paint: Imron over Corlar, done by yours truly (first time painter)
>
> - Electrical Power: 60 Amp automotive alternator modified for external
>
> regulator (see my web page, { HYPERLINK
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a> }
0000,0000,FF00
http://home.earthlink.net
> /~timrv6a
0100,0100,0100
for
> instructions)
>
> - Weight: 1162 lbs
>
> - Constructed in about 2000 hrs over 3.5 years
>
>
> I'd recently completed a BFR in a Cessna 172 after 3 years of not
> flying. Then I spent 2.8 hours with Mike Seager (factory instructor
> pilot, near Portland Oregon), who pronounced me fit to do an RV first
> flight.
>
>
> Thanks to:
>
> -My wife Debbie for putting up with this project for the last 3.5 years
>
> (and loaning me the $$$ for the engine)
>
> -EAA tech counselors Brian Tobias (EAA Chapter 35, San Antonio),
> Dick Koehler (EAA Chapter 186, Virginia) and Chuck Shedd (Chapter
> 186)
>
> -Jim Cone for great canopy instructions
>
> -Van and crew for a sweet flying airplane
>
> -Mike Seager for quality flight instruction in the factory RV-6A
>
> -Matt Dralle=92s RV-list, including GV, Mark Frederick, Mark
> LaBoyteaux, and the gang
>
> -Lt Col Ralph Strother =96 riveting, bucking, test, ground support
>
>
> Tim Lewis
>
> N47TD FLYING!!!!!
>
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | InterAV Altenator |
I have a friend that has a complete 50 amp InterAV alternator kit....alt,
reg, sup..ect.
$300.00 + shipping.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nippon-Dienso 50 AMP Alternator |
In a message dated 12/21/99 8:10:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
<< If the regulator fails, it can create a direct connection from
field to the alternator's output terminal . . . the classic
runaway problem. Removing the ON command from the little wire
has no control over this failure mode. Hence our recommendation
for the external relay in series with the alternator's b-lead
show in wiring diagrams on our website. >>
Bob,
What do you think about using a solid state relay for this? NTE has some that
look easy to mount and are small.?
Rob Hickman
N401RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
In a message dated 12/21/99 7:16:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
F1Rocket(at)aol.com writes:
<< Anyway, the cost is
$150 for the set of uppers and lowers. We only have the mains, so you will
have to fend for yourself for the nose-dragger portion. Lemme know offline
if
you are interested. >>
Scott-
Any possibility of selling just the lowers ($50/pr) for the few of us with
flying 6As that have already fabricated the uppers (because the gap without
them is just to large) and sandbagged the lowers for a future time?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nippon-Dienso 50 AMP Alternator |
In a message dated 12/21/99 8:53:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
RobHickman(at)aol.com writes:
<< What do you think about using a solid state relay for this? NTE has some
that
look easy to mount and are small.? >>
They're also rather lossy for our application. I think the resistance is
fairly high across the high current terminals even when "energized".
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight - N47TD |
Tim, congratulations, great first flight narrative. When you build your own
machine you really know whats going on ie " flaps on same circuit as stall
horn" congratulations again.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (fuselage)
Olcott, NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 10:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: First Flight - N47TD
>
>
0100,0100,0100
It all started three and a half years
> ago. The week the Air Force
> selected me for Major I ordered my RV-6A quickbuild kit from Van's,
> and started converting the garage in our San Antonio, TX house to an
> aircraft factory. After 2000 hours of work, one baby, one cross-
> country do-it-yourself move, and with the cooperation of one VERY
> tolerant wife, N47TD was certified by the
FAA.........................................................................
...
> .............................
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
>
> In a message dated 12/21/99 7:16:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> F1Rocket(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << Anyway, the cost is
> $150 for the set of uppers and lowers. We only have the mains, so you
will
> have to fend for yourself for the nose-dragger portion. Lemme know
offline
> if
> you are interested. >>
>
> Scott-
>
> Any possibility of selling just the lowers ($50/pr) for the few of us with
> flying 6As that have already fabricated the uppers (because the gap
without
> them is just to large) and sandbagged the lowers for a future time?
>
> -GV
>
>
> Scott,
Ditto the question regarding selling the uppers separately? Already
fabricated both, but not entirely pleased with the uppers.
Ed Anderson
Matthews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
I signed up...on the website there are the 1995 and 1996 RVators. That's
it... So far, I'm thinking I should have bought that 18 years of the
RVator book and I would have been better off. I guess time will tell
whether or not the promised 'indispensable' information is going to show up.
Bill
>
>So, has anybody signed on with SourceRV so they can tell us how things
>do/don't work at this site??
>Jim Nice
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry walker" <carrabellefl(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Controls |
I'm building a RV-6 with a Lycoming IO-320 and rear mounted prop governor.
The control lever on the end of the governor is behind the plane of the
firewall by approximately 1/2 inches. Has anyone else dealt with this
problem in connecting a control cable? Does anyone have suggestion on how
to connect/mount a control cable?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
These units are first rate, The manf. process and finish are among the F/G
work I've seen. I purchaced a early set last month to custom fit/heat/force
into shape for my RV-4 & I am 110% happy with the uppers I got from team
rocket...
F1Rocket(at)aol.com on 12/21/99 09:39:26 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!!
OKay all you RV6A'ers!!
HOHOHO, We have finally constructed a perfect mold for the RV6A gearleg
intersection fairings. It took a bit of time to get there, but we will sell
no parts until there time (kinda like fine wine :
) ) Anyway, the cost is
$150 for the set of uppers and lowers. We only have the mains, so you will
have to fend for yourself for the nose-dragger portion. Lemme know offline if
you are interested.
Merry Christmas!!
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
In a message dated 12/22/99 12:18:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
<< Any possibility of selling just the lowers ($50/pr) for the few of us with
flying 6As that have already fabricated the uppers (because the gap without
them is just to large) and sandbagged the lowers for a future time?
>>
Sure, but the lowers are $75 for the pair.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
In a message dated 12/22/99 9:00:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
<< Ditto the question regarding selling the uppers separately? Already
fabricated both, but not entirely pleased with the uppers.
Ed Anderson
Matthews >>
Uppers can be sold seperately too. Cost is $75 for the pair.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor Controls |
Jerry: My last RV-6 I had the same installation you are using. I made my
own opening for governor clearance. What you need is the attach bracket that
hooks to governor nuts that aligns the cable to the round rotating
mechanism. I think what I also did is to use a different set of holes in
the operating mech to get a straight alignment to the cable. If you don't
have one of the attach brackets I might have a spare at the hanger. If I
can help contact me off line.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - Tailcone stuff.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry walker <carrabellefl(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 9:28 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Governor Controls
>
> I'm building a RV-6 with a Lycoming IO-320 and rear mounted prop governor.
> The control lever on the end of the governor is behind the plane of the
> firewall by approximately 1/2 inches. Has anyone else dealt with this
> problem in connecting a control cable? Does anyone have suggestion on how
> to connect/mount a control cable?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nippon-Dienso 50 AMP Alternator |
>
>In a message dated 12/21/99 8:10:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
>
><< If the regulator fails, it can create a direct connection from
> field to the alternator's output terminal . . . the classic
> runaway problem. Removing the ON command from the little wire
> has no control over this failure mode. Hence our recommendation
> for the external relay in series with the alternator's b-lead
> show in wiring diagrams on our website. >>
>
>Bob,
>
>What do you think about using a solid state relay for this? NTE has some
that
>look easy to mount and are small.?
The relay needs to carry alternator output current 60 amps
or more. It needs to be a contactor not unlike those you
see on our website catalog.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Moving to Boston! |
In a message dated 12/21/99 11:52:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mfaatz(at)sagent.com writes:
> I'm dragging my family out to the Boston area (Bedford/Lexington/Lincoln) in
> order to start my dream job, combining software engineering and aviation!
> Is there anybody in the area building an RV? If so, let me know so we can
> meet! I'll be moving out in the middle of January. Hopefully, this will
be
> the *last* time I have to use a moving van to get my airplane somewhere.
> This is getting embarrasing. ;)
>
> I'll be heading up Avidyne's FlightMax (Flight Situation Display) project,
> and hopefully starting some new projects there. So if you have any input
> for me, let me know! What do you want to see available for your panel?
> This is your big chance!
>
> - Mitch
>
> Mitch Faatz San Jose, CA (for now) 727MF (reserved)
> RV-6A Engine baffle / plenum / cowl
> Pres. / Newsletter Editor: Bay Area RVators (for now)
> http://www.skybound.com/BARV
> http://www.aftershock.org/rv.htm
>
Hi Mitch,
I'm living in Ashland and just started work on an RV-8. Things are mostly
going well so far, though I get to have a second try at the HS-810. :-( Oh,
well. If that's the worst thing I screw up over the next year or so, I'll
count myself far ahead of the game.
Feel free to call me in the shop at 508-231-8021. I'm looking forward to
meeting you and seeing your project.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Moving to Boston! |
MITCH
<< What do you want to see available for your panel?
> This is your big chance! >>
an ATM machine,
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYBODY
SCOTT
TAMPA
6A FUSE INNERDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
Are the uppers set up so I can install them on a flying 6A without having to
pull the legs?
I'm also wondering how flexible the fit is, to know if they will be even close
to my existing fiberglass gear leg fairings; or will they most likely need an
extensive re-work. I assume, I'll have to do some finishing work and therefore
also need to paint them on the plane.
Any clue to what the speed benefit will be, or is this mostly cosmetic?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Marsland" <marsman(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
Scott,
Due to a harddisk problem, I saw be did not get to save the original
message. How do we order the complete sets of fairings?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of F1Rocket(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!!
In a message dated 12/22/99 12:18:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
<< Any possibility of selling just the lowers ($50/pr) for the few of us
with
flying 6As that have already fabricated the uppers (because the gap without
them is just to large) and sandbagged the lowers for a future time?
>>
Sure, but the lowers are $75 for the pair.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Oregon Aero Seats |
Product Report: Oregon Aero Seats RV6A
I just received my box from Oregon Aero. Four hunks of foam and a catalog
that shows how they are made. It appears to be quite a process as layers of
temper-foam are built up in a mold and trimmed to shape. The finished
product is a fully contoured cushion. The seats are uncovered.
These are probable the most expensive seats available for the RV. Cost was
conversion to Canadian dollars came to a whopping $900 Canadian. But before
you go shaking your head, try one out at the next fly-in. They are
remarkable. If you live near-by you can come over and try mine. I intend my
aircraft to be primarily a cross country machine and therefore justify the
cost of comfort.
I haven't chosen a covering yet but I do know that I will add heated seat
pads to all four cushions. They do not affect the feel of the seat. They use
4 amps each on high setting and cost $450 Canadian for all four pads needed.
They are available locally at a car seatcover place.
I plan to secure them with 2" wide velcro to the aircraft and each one will
have a plug for the electric heat to make the seats removable.
Norman Hunger
Working too much to build these last two months.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
In a message dated 12/22/99 11:23:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
<< Are the uppers set up so I can install them on a flying 6A without having
to
pull the legs?
You will not have to pull the legs to install these fairings.
I'm also wondering how flexible the fit is, to know if they will be even
close
to my existing fiberglass gear leg fairings; or will they most likely need an
extensive re-work. I assume, I'll have to do some finishing work and
therefore
also need to paint them on the plane.
These fairings will only fit our gearleg fairings. they will not fit Van's
gearlegs fairings. The finish work is very nice.
Any clue to what the speed benefit will be, or is this mostly cosmetic?
i cannot say what the speed increase might be because I have not flown an
RV6A with these fairings. Sorry.
Andy >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
In a message dated 12/22/99 11:29:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
marsman(at)flash.net writes:
<< Scott,
Due to a harddisk problem, I saw be did not get to save the original
message. How do we order the complete sets of fairings?
>>
You can order these intersection fairings throught our website at
www.teamrocketaircraft.com or call me at 561-748-2429 with a credit card or
send a check.
Now, I did not make it very clear on my intial announcement, and I want to
try better here. These are the intersection fairings only, for $150. They
will not fit the van gearleg intersection fairings or Tracy Sailor's gearleg
fairings. They will ONLY fit Team Rocket's gearleg fairings. They will fit
Van's pressure recovery wheelpants or our Rocket pants. If you need to have a
set of our gearleg fairings, they are $99 for the set. They can also be
purchased through our website or by calling me at the number above.
I hope that I did better this time :
).
Due to the number of orders that we have gotten so far, our shipments will be
going out the 1st or 2nd week in January.
Scott
Team Rocket, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Question about Alt B-lead |
Hi Bob,
I was reading the alternator thread and I am confused. Are you recommending an
external
relay on the B-lead *only* for alternators with built in regulators?
Also, in light of the first question, does this mean that appendix D note 10 should
apply with an external alt (I am using your "Ford" unit). I gather from all this
that I
should run the B lead to the starter relay BATT connection and fuse it there with
your
kit and it should not run through the same hole as the power lead to the VR? My
VR is
on the engine side of the FW.
Chris Browne
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
... If the regulator fails, it can create a direct connection from
field to the alternator's output terminal . . . the classic
runaway problem. Removing the ON command from the little wire
has no control over this failure mode. Hence our recommendation
for the external relay in series with the alternator's b-lead
show in wiring diagrams on our website.
...
> ... This is another reason why I like the b-lead to get an 80 amp fuse on the
> panel so that the b-lead doesn't come through the firewall
> with ANY wires, much less the field wire.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor Controls |
My first question is, "Did you install the optional firewall recess?" It
was made for this problem. It also helps in getting the oil filter on and
off. If you do not have this recess, I know of no other solution than to
install one. You will probably have to pull the engine mount off and drill
out a bunch of rivets, but it shouldn't be that difficult to add.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>I'm building a RV-6 with a Lycoming IO-320 and rear mounted prop governor.
>The control lever on the end of the governor is behind the plane of the
>firewall by approximately 1/2 inches. Has anyone else dealt with this
>problem in connecting a control cable? Does anyone have suggestion on how
>to connect/mount a control cable?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane3(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RV er's in Orlando area |
Are there any RV-8er's in Orlando area that would be
willing to show off there project?
I am going to be in town Jan 8th & 9th. I have a
rental car so no problem there.
I know that this is off the RV subject but is that
"Fantasy of Flight Museum any good ?
Dane Sheahen
RV8A QB working on fuel lines & Pumps
dane3(at)attglobal.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | First Flight - N47TD |
writes:
>
>
0100,0100,0100
It all started three and a half
>years
>ago. The week the Air Force
>selected me for Major I ordered my RV-6A quickbuild kit from Van's,
>and started converting the garage in our San Antonio, TX house to an
>aircraft factory. After 2000 hours of work, one baby, one cross-
>country do-it-yourself move, and with the cooperation of one VERY
>tolerant wife, N47TD was certified by the FAA.
>
>
>First flight of my new RV-6A was scheduled for 10AM on 18 Dec 99.
>My ground support team (two fellow officers from the Pentagon, both
>pilots) and the Manassas volunteer Emergency Medical Services crew
>were on hand, as were my wife and 20-month-old son. Out of the
>woodwork appeared another 10 or so folks, so there was quite a
>crowd. I put on my Nomex gloves and hood, and strapped on my
>stupid looking bicycle helmet (safety first). The engine started
>right
>up... and was soon making horrible "POP" noises every few seconds.
>The EIS engine monitor showed number 4 CHT was barely above
>room temperature, while the other CHTs were rising up to 200 degrees.
> Number 4 EGT is 300 degrees, while all the others are well above
>1000
>degrees. Nuts. Shut down the engine. The ground support team
>confirmed loud "pop" noises coming from the engine.
>
>
>We pulled the cowl and confirmed number 4 was cold, while the other
>cylinders were hot. We cleaned the plugs. No good. We swapped
>plugs. No good. The crowd starts to disburse. I sent EMS home.
>We verify both the mag and the electronic ignition are producing
>sparks at their respective spark plugs on cylinder 4.
>
>
>Frantic phone call to Chapter 186 Tech Counselor Dick Koehler (A&P,
>IA, A/C MX instructor, retired USN pilot, etc etc) gives some good
>ideas to start diagnostics. Compression check reveals number 4 has
>good compression, so the exhaust valve isn't stuck open. We pull the
>valve cover and note that both the intake and the exhaust valves work
>just fine, and number 4's combustion cycle is right before number 1's
>combustion cycle, so there's not some horrible problem with the cam.
>In hopes that there's some valve sticking due to different
>coefficients
>of expansion on the new engine, we heat the cylinder up with a
>propane engine heater (Red Dragon) and try it again. The problem is
>still there.
>
>
>Yet another call to Dick, and we start ticking off the physics basics.
>N47TD FLYING!!!!!
>Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
>RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
>TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
>http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
Congratuations &Thanks for the report. I assume the 60023 is a Qbuild.
& the TD is for Tim & Debbie.
DNA
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
*****************************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV er's in Orlando area |
dane
the fantisy of flight is so - so. you are basically paying 16.00 per person
to look inside kermitt weeks major toy box. he has a couple big hangers their
with rare war birds and such. remember the heliocopter at the beginning of
mash? he has a mock of the trenches, you get to walk through a b17 and look
down through the bomb bay doors. for more money you can fly against other
pilots in corsair flight sims and shoot japs. they took all the neat rides
away for insurance reasons, you used to get to fly an ultralight with their
instructor, they used to be a hot air ballon on a teather they would let it
get up to about 1000 feet, but someone cut it loose one night and they never
found it. i got to meet kermitt ( the luckest man in the world who inherited
6 billion dollars ). he is a real nice guy and is usually tinkering around
one of his planes.
i enjoyed it, a bit pricy but alright.
as far as an rv8, their is one being built in palm harbor, about 1 1/2 hours
west near tampa, doug gardener is his name and monitors this list. he is
doing interior work.
if you want to see a rv6a , look me up in tampa
later
scott
rv6a fuse tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Balancing & Fit |
>I have thought I have assembled my elevators for the last time but that
>probably isn't true. I have slight resistence now everything is tightened.
I was looking for Scott McDaniels to respond to this, but if he did I didn't
see it... he helped me with mine -- both my elevators and rudder were a bit
stiff when I tightened the bolts. I spent a long time working to alleviate
this with coaching from Scott, as he told me I could have problems with
"wandering" trim if I didn't fix it.
The first thing he told me is that ANY misalignment of the attach angles
with respect to the rod end bearings will cause the ball to be pressed
against the side of the bearing and resulting stiffness. So I spent a long
time tweaking the attach angles so the bearings would slide in easily
without any preload on any of the angles. You definitely do need to shim out
any gap between the elevator horns and the bearing or they will bind, for
the same reason.
Then there's alignment. A little misalignment of the holes shouldn't cause
them to bind, but
if its significant then they will, and you'll have to figure out some way to
remedy it. My elevators were stiff and I tried EVERYTHING. Both would move
freely by themselves but once I tightened the center bolt, even with the
perfect thickness spacers between them, they stiffened up due to some
misalignment. The solution was to use a drilled bolt, castle nut and cotter
key, and not tighten it against the bearing. Not very elegant, but that's
what they used to do before they made a bearing. And hey, it worked -- the
elevators move very freely.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mglantz(at)uswest.net |
by albqpop1.albq.uswest.net with SMTP; 22 Dec 1999 21":29:30.-0000(at)matronics.com
I'm thinking of purchasing a Transponder,is a encoder neccessary?What is a Blind
Encoder?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Pilla" <mpilla(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with F-422] |
My friend, Claudio Tonini, suggested that I take a large socket from an
*inexpensive* socket set. Place the socket inside the "V" notch. Then,
place the outside of the "V" (ridge) and the socket in a vise and
squeeze.
The large socket (I used about an 1 1/4" socket) exerts much more gentle
pressure against the angle. I did take some scrap alum angle to line
the jaw so that the outside of the "V" would not get scratched.
I had to turn rather hard, but did not need an extension lever on the
vise handle. Just keep checking until you get the desired angle.
Worked like a champ.
Michael Pilla
BTW, the reason for the "inexpensive" socket is because it is entirely
possible that you may flatten the socket somewhat. So, I purchased an
inexpensive one and, yes, it did get distorted. But, since it didn't
come from my socket set, no big deal. I saved it for future such angle
bends.
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Help with F-422
> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 22:34:50 -0500
> From: "Dick Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To:
>
>
> Scott VanArsdale wrote:
>
> >I need help with something... I am fabricating the F-442 mount pads
> that I
> >believe the rudder pedals attach to. I see from the plans that the
> angle
> >needs to be bent outward 5 deg. Exactly how do you do this? I tried
> >pounding it with a mallet, I even left it clamped in the vice last
> night
> >such that the vice was pushing the angle open. It still pops back to
> a 90
> >deg angle. What's the secret?
>
> All of the various "beat it with a big hammer" quotes seem workable.
> I
> found access to an arbor press, laid the angle over a pipe as another
> poster
> suggested and after protecting the sharp corner with some sheet stock
> carefully applied the pressure. Worked fine.
>
> Dick Sipp
> RV4-250DS
> 180 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
You need the encoder for your altitude reporting. A blind encoder is a
remote pressure sensor that sends the information to your transponder(mounted
behind the panel in most cases). You can also buy an encoding altimeter that
has the encoder built into it. These are more expensive to buy and repair(if
necessary).
Have Fun!
Dave Funk
Hating Ailerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/20/99 |
| From: | Stuart S drivS Driver <sdrivers(at)juno.com> |
Glad to see the RV4 list is taking off.
I am a long time builder, a demanding full time job and a full time
family definitely interfere with the building process.
I have been waiting to close the second wing for over a year now!
I have just about finished building a hanger at a place called Treasure
Coast Air Park in St. Lucie County FL It is presently the home for my '66
C150 (yes the flying also uses up building time).
It crossed my mind that I should purchase a completed RV3 if the price
was right, I have looked at a couple and would appreciate any leads.
I have started my instrument panel and would be interested in the
drawing offered on this list.
My kit number is 1138
Phone 561-747-0225 Evenings. I would be pleased to offer advice based on
my fairly limited
experience.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Just buying a transponder is almost a waste of money.
Buying an encoder to go with it makes it worthwhile and one would be foolish
not to have a transponder with encoder in a fast plane like an RV. It
gives you so many positives, you really should not consider your plane
equipped until you have them installed.
Having just a transponder might make it handy for the controller but it
won't get you into B and C controlled space as the controller doesn't have
any altitude information. The addition of the encoder, even a blind encoder
makes it possible to get into the controlled spaces.
Incidentally, the blind encoder passes altitude information for the
transponder to radio. You can get a encoder read out, but since you are
more interested in the pressure compensated information of your altimeter,
it is of little value to you, as it always is referenced to 29.92 instead
of actual pressure. The ground station converts this information to actual
by adding or subtracting their local pressure to your signal. This give
them your actual and you can request what they read to check your altimeter.
The transponder only transmits to the nearest 100 feet so your altimeter is
more accurate.
So what are the other positives, besides getting to go into controlled areas
with controller's permission? Doesn't really sound that good, does it?
First, because you can fly into C and D airspace, you don't have to deviate.
No big deal yet. Didn't want the FAA to know where I was going anyway.
Second, it makes you airplane look like a big airliner. The radar blip is
enhanced to look like even AirForce One. The reflected radar return not as
bright as when you are using a transponder. Especially when the brightness
is returned down to remove ground clutter. Still no big deal!
Third, it reduces your IFR work load as center knows where you are. But if
you don't file, fly VFR... still no big deal.
The BIG deal is TCAS. When you have a transponder-encoder, most heavy iron
used by corporations and airlines also have a receiver for your radar
transponder, encoder return. This automatically, tells the pilot with TCAS
when you are about to back into their airplane. With the encoder, the pilot
with TCAS also is told to turn or climb or dive to avoid you. This covers
the blind spot behind you that you never see. TCAS also works when you are
on any collision course with an airplane that has TCAS. Safety is improved
and takes the human controller element out of the picture. Safety to avoid
that "run down feeling" That is what your transponder-encoder does for you
and everyone else in the system.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: mglantz(at)uswest.net by albqpop1.albq.uswest.net with SMTP; 22 Dec 1999
21 <":29:30.-0000"@matronics.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 3:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: encoders
>
>I'm thinking of purchasing a Transponder,is a encoder neccessary?What is a
Blind Encoder?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
Cy,
Very well said! Flying with TCAS is a double-edge sword, in that once you see
all the traffic that you have been missing, you wonder how you'll ever fly
without it. When the TCAS picks up a target without altitude information, all
it will present is a "white diamond" with no information. The result is that it
is inhibited from issuing you an "Resolution Alert" (RA), which gives the
avoidance guidance. Moreover, it gives the pilots flying an uneasy feeling,
unless that they are able to gain visual contact. Yeah, I know, I can hear the
violins playing in the background, but considering the very high traffic areas
that we are forced to operate in, TCAS is a tool that GREATLY increases the
safety of all involved. My personal record is Three "RAs" on one approach into
Burbank. We were IFR, and all involved aircraft were in contact with approach.
It was VMC with the standard LA Basin haze, the aircraft was on autopilot, and
all three of us (There was a flight manager in the jumpseat) were concentrating
on clearing outside.
Please, if you plan on flying your RV in a high traffic area spend the money for
altitude encoding. This is one little box in your plane that will help us all.
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
RV-6 Wings. (My other plane is a Boeing)
Cy Galley wrote:
> The BIG deal is TCAS. When you have a transponder-encoder, most heavy iron
> used by corporations and airlines also have a receiver for your radar
> transponder, encoder return. This automatically, tells the pilot with TCAS
> when you are about to back into their airplane. With the encoder, the pilot
> with TCAS also is told to turn or climb or dive to avoid you. This covers
> the blind spot behind you that you never see. TCAS also works when you are
> on any collision course with an airplane that has TCAS. Safety is improved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Balancing & Fit |
Thanks for the response Randal. The other two responses suggested lube but
that didn't work. The angles do not press against the bearings; there is a
slight gap that I filled with thick or thin washers. It is only the center
bearing and the first one on the left taht causes slight resistance when
tightened; the others are fine when tightened. I will follow your lead and
use drilled bolts and castle nuts on these two. Thanks again for the tip
off.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 #24187 should fire up the engine within a few days.
melbourne, Fl
>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rvlist"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Balancing & Fit
>Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 11:51:07 -0800
>
>
> >I have thought I have assembled my elevators for the last time but that
> >probably isn't true. I have slight resistence now everything is
>tightened.
>
>
>I was looking for Scott McDaniels to respond to this, but if he did I
>didn't
>see it... he helped me with mine -- both my elevators and rudder were a bit
>stiff when I tightened the bolts. I spent a long time working to alleviate
>this with coaching from Scott, as he told me I could have problems with
>"wandering" trim if I didn't fix it.
>
>The first thing he told me is that ANY misalignment of the attach angles
>with respect to the rod end bearings will cause the ball to be pressed
>against the side of the bearing and resulting stiffness. So I spent a long
>time tweaking the attach angles so the bearings would slide in easily
>without any preload on any of the angles. You definitely do need to shim
>out
>any gap between the elevator horns and the bearing or they will bind, for
>the same reason.
>
>Then there's alignment. A little misalignment of the holes shouldn't cause
>them to bind, but
>if its significant then they will, and you'll have to figure out some way
>to
>remedy it. My elevators were stiff and I tried EVERYTHING. Both would move
>freely by themselves but once I tightened the center bolt, even with the
>perfect thickness spacers between them, they stiffened up due to some
>misalignment. The solution was to use a drilled bolt, castle nut and cotter
>key, and not tighten it against the bearing. Not very elegant, but that's
>what they used to do before they made a bearing. And hey, it worked -- the
>elevators move very freely.
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~50 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RST Audio Panel for sale |
"Bert F. Murillo" wrote:
>
> Bill:
>
> The stainlessteel tape, is available thru J.C whitney; I just got my
> roll a few days ago. Applying it, yes is an art to do it; not really
> I got the instructions, on one of the Videos....line it up, remove a little
> of the backing at the time, set it gently, then another little part.. and
> so on. You cannot set it, all at once...
>
> Bert Murillo
>
Bert, when attaching the stainless steel tape to your flap, you might
consider using a piece of masking tape to align the SS tape. The masking tape
is used to form a hinge along the entire edge of the SS tape before removing
its backing and exposing the adhesive. When the SS tape is aligned and attached
to the flap using the the masking tape then roll the SS tape on its back;
remove the backing; and then slowly and carefully, roll it back into position
on the flap. The masking tape will keep every neatly aligned and straight.
Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Prop Governor Controls |
See the docs/plans section of my web site for the bracket I used. It
gets pretty cramped back in the firewall recess. My bracket lies
horizontal, toward the pilot's side.
Tim
On 22 Dec 99, at 9:28, Jerry walker wrote:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Jerry walker"
>
> I'm building a RV-6 with a Lycoming IO-320 and rear mounted prop governor.
> The control lever on the end of the governor is behind the plane of the
> firewall by approximately 1/2 inches. Has anyone else dealt with this
> problem in connecting a control cable? Does anyone have suggestion on how
> to connect/mount a control cable?
>
>
>
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
>This automatically, tells the pilot with TCAS
when you are about to back into their airplane. With the encoder, the pilot
with TCAS also is told to turn or climb or dive to avoid you. This covers
the blind spot behind you that you never see.<
Thank you for using this forum to advocate safety for everyone! One minor
correction. TCAS will not tell the pilot to turn. TCAS II is the current
standard and gives climb and descent commands only. TCAS III, which has
been abandoned due to technical (algorithm) difficulties would have
provided the turn commands.
Not real important but if you see a biz jet (a large majority have TCAS
now) or an airliner expect it to climb or descend to avoid you. The best
bet for a small aircraft is usually to turn because you can be pretty sure
you won't turn into him. If you climb or descend you have a 50-50 chance
of initiating the same avoidance manuver he does.
Fly Safe
Scott A. Jordan
G-IV, CL-60 TCAS equiped
80331 windscreen support
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First flight, RV8 N94BD (long) |
Greetings all!
Today, December 22, 1999, my RV8, N94BD saw LOTS of air under it's tires for
the first time. Yes, it IS awesome, and yes I'm grinning in a huge way.
Some very raw and unscientific data:
RV8 N94BD
Empty weight 1037 pounds.
Lycoming O-360A4J, 180hp.
Sensenich 72FM8S9-83 prop.
Deluxe VFR, w/gyros.
Custom fitted seats.
no paint (yet)
no gear leg fairings or wheel pants.
Conditions:
Air temp, about 48 degrees
airfield elevation at AEG, 5830'MSL
Peformance:
Climb w/full fuel 1,500fpm @90mph indicated
stall 57mph
My cruise airspeed and tach data is somewhat confusing right now. Only
indicated 125mph and the tach seemed to stop working over 2300rpm. I will
verifiy with an optical tach soon. The engine sounds like it's winding up
just fine, but the gauge says otherwise. Oh well, I'll add it to my list of
things to fix. The path the tach cable takes to go under the baggage hold
might be causing some problems. A GPS wind triangle will be flown soon to
get the real story.
General impressions:
An RV8 flown solo with this engine and prop, and battery mounted on the
firewall needs aft ballast to reduce stick loads. It was very evident once
it became airborne that the tail was too light. The mechanical trim worked
fine, but the tab is waaaay down, especially when trimmed for low power
descent profile. I plan to put together a survival kit and will place it on
the rear baggage shelf. I will also experiment with ballast to see what
feels right. I have forty hours to fly by myself, so I want it to feel more
neutral about the pitch axis.
The machine grooves through the sky like it's on rails! Van, you're a
HELLUVA airplane designer. I had no problem with wing heaviness and it flew
straight without my input. The ball stayed centered in shallow turns without
rudder input. I came in high on final...behind a spam can flying a bomber
pattern. I used the altitude to try a mild slip. It came down nicely and
the airspeed held constant at 85mph. The roundout and flare were so easy to
do as to defy description. From where I sit in the plane, if I place the top
of the spinner on the horizon, it sets up the correct three point pitch
attitude. 85mph on final was a bit too fast, and I will try 80mph next
time. Yes, there were a few bounces...but nothing registered on the Richter
scale. ;)
It tracked straight ahead with little need for rudder intervention on
rollout. At fast taxi speed, it did try to wander off to the left, but it
was easily controlled. I have the tailwheel springs set per plans, with
about 1" of sag at neutral rudder.
So, there you have it. It took thirty months of building, with wonderful
support from my Wife Debbie, my Dad (who spent hundreds of hours prepping
parts and bucking rivets with me), Mike and Janet Crosby, my aviation
mentors for many years now and a nicer couple of folks cannot be found
anywhere, and Pat Kirkpatrick (RV6A). Pat has been invaluable to me during
the final preparations. When something didn't work, he helped me find
answers. Mike and Janet are airplane builders par excellence, and were
instrumental in my choosing to build an RV. As for Debbie, well, I wouldn't
be here without her. She told me to get my pilot's license in the first
place! Little did she know what that would lead to. ;)
Have a wonderful Holiday season folks. I know I will! I'm going flying again
tomorrow!! Yes guys, it IS worth every second, every rivet, every cut
finger, and overloaded credit card. You CAN do it! Keep the faith.
Brian Denk
Albuquerque, NM
RV8 N94BD
FLYING!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Help! with empennage jig |
Question about my empennage jig. So far I have:
Built and anchored it
Strung my straight wire above it to established straight line
Transfered the straight line to the horizontal support.
Aligned Avery fixtures (nice! by the way)
Mounted HS via brackets.
Aligned center of front spar in three dimensions and clamped it in place to
an upright
So everything is great, EXCEPT!
I can't figure out how to anchor the end ribs (to keep them from flopping
towards what would be the top and bottom of the HS once it is built). I
tried the threaded rod trick shown in the manual but is provides essential
no support in this plane, and neither would the strap/bolt arrangement shown
in the manual either. They'd keep it from parallelogramming left/right, but
not in the other plane! (And the parallelogramming goes away once you clamp
the center of the front spar down anyway.
Once I cleco the skin on it seems pretty solid and not floppy, but I feel I
should anchor it in some way. I would prefer that my HS be straight
straight straight.
Anyone else experience this? It seems like there's no point in supporting
the end ribs as shown in the manual using that method.
Matthew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net> |
Cy Galley wrote:
>> The BIG deal is TCAS. When you have a transponder-encoder, most heavy
iron
>> used by corporations and airlines also have a receiver for your radar
>> transponder, encoder return. This automatically, tells the pilot with
TCAS
>> when you are about to back into their airplane. With the encoder, the
pilot
>> with TCAS also is told to turn or climb or dive to avoid you. This
covers
>> the blind spot behind you that you never see. TCAS also works when you
are
>> on any collision course with an airplane that has TCAS. Safety is
improved
A hearty ditto to Keith and Cy's comments regarding the value of encoding
altimeters to TCAS equipped aircraft. This is particularly true for corp
jets that often fly into "our" smaller airports. It is very reassuring to
"see" other airplanes in the pattern on your " 6 or 8 inch fishfinder
display." Another advantage is the ease with which controllers can vector
you through or around B and C airspace. Two years ago enroute to the
homecoming, and as a stranger to the Portland terminal area, I contacted
approach control with my intentions to land at Hillsboro. They provided an
immediate straight line vector from 30 NM east right over the top of PDX
into Hillsboro. Controllers, I am sure, are much more comfortable watching
an altitude reporting target than one that it is not reporting altitude but
does have a transponder. This would be true even if the altitude was not
confirmed via direct contact with the "unknown" target. Controllers often
include an "unknown's" altitude with the comment "traffic at X o'clock
altitude xxxx, unconfirmed" that sure makes everyone feel better
particularly if the traffic can not be acquired visually. Finally, if you
have an altitude reporting transponder, it is polite to leave the altitude
reporting function off or in stby until just prior to takeoff. An operating
altitude reporting transponder on the ground appears the same as one in
flight until you do the relative altitude math and determine that the target
is on the ground.
"Feeling warm and fuzzy when we see your altitude"
Dick Sipp
RV4-250DS 180 Hours
GV/ Falcon 900EX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight, RV8 N94BD (long) |
Brian,
You are the MAN!!! Truly, congratulations. This airplane has been the most
challenging project overall I've ever attempted, and I imagine its that way
for most of us. You have now "made the summit", and in only 30 months.
Sounds like you built one heck of a plane as well... flies straight, not
even a heavy aileron. Must be quite a feeling, and yes indeed, it's
motivating as heck to the rest of us. Keep us posted as you learn more about
it and get things tweaked... PLEEEZE!!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, just ordered panel stuff today
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 4:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: First flight, RV8 N94BD (long)
>
> Greetings all!
>
> Today, December 22, 1999, my RV8, N94BD saw LOTS of air under it's tires
for
> the first time. Yes, it IS awesome, and yes I'm grinning in a huge way.
>
> Some very raw and unscientific data:
>
> RV8 N94BD
> Empty weight 1037 pounds.
> Lycoming O-360A4J, 180hp.
> Sensenich 72FM8S9-83 prop.
> Deluxe VFR, w/gyros.
> Custom fitted seats.
> no paint (yet)
> no gear leg fairings or wheel pants.
>
> Conditions:
>
> Air temp, about 48 degrees
> airfield elevation at AEG, 5830'MSL
>
> Peformance:
>
> Climb w/full fuel 1,500fpm @90mph indicated
> stall 57mph
> My cruise airspeed and tach data is somewhat confusing right now. Only
> indicated 125mph and the tach seemed to stop working over 2300rpm. I will
> verifiy with an optical tach soon. The engine sounds like it's winding up
> just fine, but the gauge says otherwise. Oh well, I'll add it to my list
of
> things to fix. The path the tach cable takes to go under the baggage hold
> might be causing some problems. A GPS wind triangle will be flown soon to
> get the real story.
>
> General impressions:
>
> An RV8 flown solo with this engine and prop, and battery mounted on the
> firewall needs aft ballast to reduce stick loads. It was very evident once
> it became airborne that the tail was too light. The mechanical trim
worked
> fine, but the tab is waaaay down, especially when trimmed for low power
> descent profile. I plan to put together a survival kit and will place it
on
> the rear baggage shelf. I will also experiment with ballast to see what
> feels right. I have forty hours to fly by myself, so I want it to feel
more
> neutral about the pitch axis.
>
> The machine grooves through the sky like it's on rails! Van, you're a
> HELLUVA airplane designer. I had no problem with wing heaviness and it
flew
> straight without my input. The ball stayed centered in shallow turns
without
> rudder input. I came in high on final...behind a spam can flying a bomber
> pattern. I used the altitude to try a mild slip. It came down nicely and
> the airspeed held constant at 85mph. The roundout and flare were so easy
to
> do as to defy description. From where I sit in the plane, if I place the
top
> of the spinner on the horizon, it sets up the correct three point pitch
> attitude. 85mph on final was a bit too fast, and I will try 80mph next
> time. Yes, there were a few bounces...but nothing registered on the
Richter
> scale. ;)
>
> It tracked straight ahead with little need for rudder intervention on
> rollout. At fast taxi speed, it did try to wander off to the left, but it
> was easily controlled. I have the tailwheel springs set per plans, with
> about 1" of sag at neutral rudder.
>
> So, there you have it. It took thirty months of building, with wonderful
> support from my Wife Debbie, my Dad (who spent hundreds of hours prepping
> parts and bucking rivets with me), Mike and Janet Crosby, my aviation
> mentors for many years now and a nicer couple of folks cannot be found
> anywhere, and Pat Kirkpatrick (RV6A). Pat has been invaluable to me
during
> the final preparations. When something didn't work, he helped me find
> answers. Mike and Janet are airplane builders par excellence, and were
> instrumental in my choosing to build an RV. As for Debbie, well, I
wouldn't
> be here without her. She told me to get my pilot's license in the first
> place! Little did she know what that would lead to. ;)
>
> Have a wonderful Holiday season folks. I know I will! I'm going flying
again
> tomorrow!! Yes guys, it IS worth every second, every rivet, every cut
> finger, and overloaded credit card. You CAN do it! Keep the faith.
>
> Brian Denk
> Albuquerque, NM
> RV8 N94BD
> FLYING!!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help! with empennage jig |
Matthew Gelber wrote:
>
>
> Question about my empennage jig. So far I have:
>
> Built and anchored it
> Strung my straight wire above it to established straight line
> Transfered the straight line to the horizontal support.
> Aligned Avery fixtures (nice! by the way)
> Mounted HS via brackets.
> Aligned center of front spar in three dimensions and clamped it in place to
> an upright
>
> So everything is great, EXCEPT!
>
> I can't figure out how to anchor the end ribs (to keep them from flopping
> towards what would be the top and bottom of the HS once it is built). I
> tried the threaded rod trick shown in the manual but is provides essential
> no support in this plane, and neither would the strap/bolt arrangement shown
> in the manual either. They'd keep it from parallelogramming left/right, but
> not in the other plane! (And the parallelogramming goes away once you clamp
> the center of the front spar down anyway.
>
> Once I cleco the skin on it seems pretty solid and not floppy, but I feel I
> should anchor it in some way. I would prefer that my HS be straight
> straight straight.
>
> Anyone else experience this? It seems like there's no point in supporting
> the end ribs as shown in the manual using that method.
>
> Matthew
>
The threaded rod should work. I drilled the tooling hole out and used a
1/4" threaded rod. Use nuts and washers and secure it in a hole drilled
through a piece of 2x4 attached to the jig. Use a nut on each side of
the rib. If the rod is secured well to the jig, it will not move.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help! with empennage jig |
Matt, I used a galvanized pipe adapter that i screwed to the jig and then i
screwed a brasss nipple in to the fitting, took my threading outfit and put
threads into the nipple,installed the threaded rod into the nipple and there
you have it. Held the empennage structure very well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6BLDR" <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Help! with empennage jig
>
> Matthew Gelber wrote:
> >
> >
> > Question about my empennage jig. So far I have:
> >
> > Built and anchored it
> > Strung my straight wire above it to established straight line
> > Transfered the straight line to the horizontal support.
> > Aligned Avery fixtures (nice! by the way)
> > Mounted HS via brackets.
> > Aligned center of front spar in three dimensions and clamped it in place
to
> > an upright
> >
> > So everything is great, EXCEPT!
> >
> > I can't figure out how to anchor the end ribs (to keep them from
flopping
> > towards what would be the top and bottom of the HS once it is built). I
> > tried the threaded rod trick shown in the manual but is provides
essential
> > no support in this plane, and neither would the strap/bolt arrangement
shown
> > in the manual either. They'd keep it from parallelogramming left/right,
but
> > not in the other plane! (And the parallelogramming goes away once you
clamp
> > the center of the front spar down anyway.
> >
> > Once I cleco the skin on it seems pretty solid and not floppy, but I
feel I
> > should anchor it in some way. I would prefer that my HS be straight
> > straight straight.
> >
> > Anyone else experience this? It seems like there's no point in
supporting
> > the end ribs as shown in the manual using that method.
> >
> > Matthew
> >
>
> The threaded rod should work. I drilled the tooling hole out and used a
> 1/4" threaded rod. Use nuts and washers and secure it in a hole drilled
> through a piece of 2x4 attached to the jig. Use a nut on each side of
> the rib. If the rod is secured well to the jig, it will not move.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok -6 fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First flight, RV8 N94BD (long) |
Brian,
Congratulations! Your post is exactly the sort of inspiration that I needed
today, as I've had the entire day to contemplate the bandsaw hamhandedness
that resulted in my screwing up the HS-810 yesterday. After all the careful
layout and drilling, too. Oh, well. The next one will be better!
I'm looking forward to hearing of your progress as your test period
continues. Good luck and fly safely.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
working on the horiz. stab.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
Will you have intersection fairings for the nose gear in the future?
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Thanks for the correction. I will probably expand this into an article for
one of my newsletters so I appreciate the help. Too bad, that TCAS units
are not economically feasible for small privately owned planes. It would be
nice to remove the human warning element as I have had the tower fail to
announce critical traffic when in their positive control zone. Said they
were busy doing something else.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: encoders
>
>
>>This automatically, tells the pilot with TCAS
>when you are about to back into their airplane. With the encoder, the pilot
>with TCAS also is told to turn or climb or dive to avoid you. This covers
>the blind spot behind you that you never see.<
>
>Thank you for using this forum to advocate safety for everyone! One minor
>correction. TCAS will not tell the pilot to turn. TCAS II is the current
>standard and gives climb and descent commands only. TCAS III, which has
>been abandoned due to technical (algorithm) difficulties would have
>provided the turn commands.
>
> Not real important but if you see a biz jet (a large majority have TCAS
>now) or an airliner expect it to climb or descend to avoid you. The best
>bet for a small aircraft is usually to turn because you can be pretty sure
>you won't turn into him. If you climb or descend you have a 50-50 chance
>of initiating the same avoidance manuver he does.
>
>Fly Safe
>
>Scott A. Jordan
>G-IV, CL-60 TCAS equiped
>80331 windscreen support
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)juno.com> |
Rocket Guys,
Do I understand correctly that you sell the NAT AA85 intercom?
I don"t see it listed in your web sight, in fact, I couldn't get anything
to come up in your web sight catalog.
Regards, Bill Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
Actually in the corporate world, we have an AD out to check all our aircraft
(transport category) with Mode C xpdrs with ghilliam, or gray code encoding,
every 45 days. There has been a problem with some units setting off TCAS
system and giving pilots false RA's. This may trickle down to the utility
class. I sure hope not.
Dave Funk
Still beating on aileron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help! with empennage jig |
> Once I cleco the skin on it seems pretty solid and not floppy, but I
> feel I should anchor it in some way.
Matt, consider this:
It doesn't matter what the tips are doing _until you put the skins on_.
the purpose of individual tip control is to be able to align the plumb
bob with the tip of the leading edge of the stab when you drill the
skins on.
If your setup firms up when the skins are on, and you can use it to get
dead-on tip-to-plumb bob alignment, then you're set. The stab _will_
be straight.
I ran my threaded rod through 2x4 blocks which I screwed to the jig
uprights. Nuts and washers on either side of the 2x4 secured the rod
and the thickness gave me all the rigidity I needed.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Intersection Fairings are HERE!!!! |
In a message dated 12/22/99 7:31:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
F1Rocket(at)aol.com writes:
<< Sure, but the lowers are $75 for the pair. >>
But you say they won't fit Tracy Saylor's gear leg fairings so forget I
mentioned it ;
)
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | N94BD first flight pics |
Folks,
I added some pics to my webpage showing today's festivities. Now it's time
for bed. Ooooh, there's gonna be some great dreams tonight!
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/finish1.html
Brian Denk
N94BD
still grinning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight, RV8 N94BD (long) |
Congrats, Brian. Us wannabes are all jealous as hell! Andy Johnson, -8 wings.
Ah, someday.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Help! with empennage jig |
Matthew, I used a steel 1/8"x1" steel strap (from Home Depot) bent into an
"A" shape with a flat area a the tip about an inch and a half wide, and two
parallel legs at the open ends lag bolted to my wood uprights. At the tip end
I used a 1/4" bolt and nut long enough to reach the ribs. Pretty much like
the manual as I recall, and very stiff and strong. The threaded rod method is
crap. Andy Johnson, -8 wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor Controls |
Hello Jerry,
I have 0-360 with C/S. It has similar mounting of governor.
I ran my prop control cable along right side of battery through the fire wall
then rising forward and to the left then aft toward the firewall then too the
governor. It makes one big gentle loop and works great. I have 212 hours on
the aircraft in one year without a hitch in that system......and hardly a
hitch worth mentioning in any other.
Ron Vandervort
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RST audio panel |
Where do you get info on RST kits? Is there a web site? How do I get a
catalog?
Thanks.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
If it is new, bring it back and get a new one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help! with empennage jig |
Matthew Gelber wrote:
> I can't figure out how to anchor the end ribs (to keep them from flopping
> towards what would be the top and bottom of the HS once it is built). I
> tried the threaded rod trick shown in the manual but is provides essential
> no support in this plane, and neither would the strap/bolt arrangement shown
> in the manual either. They'd keep it from parallelogramming left/right, but
> not in the other plane! (And the parallelogramming goes away once you clamp
> the center of the front spar down anyway.
This rod trick worked fine for my 6A empenage. I used 1/4" rod drilled through
the vertical center line of my jig uprights. I found that the closer the
uprights to the ends of the HS the better the rods would hold it.
>
>
> Once I cleco the skin on it seems pretty solid and not floppy, but I feel I
> should anchor it in some way. I would prefer that my HS be straight
> straight straight.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Enrique Morcillo" <rv6a(at)wol.es> |
Hello to all:
My last issue of Rvator is 3rd.
anybody has received new issues since the 3rd issue was mailed?
I supposse taht in december there will be 3 magazines (4,5 and 6) to finish
the 1999 subscription...
Merry Chrtsmas from Spain
Enrique Morcillo
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fibrelite Instrument Lighting System Questions.... |
| From: | "Paul A. Rosales" <rv6a(at)juno.com> |
>
>Ya'll,
>
>Just wondering if anyone has used and has any experiences with the
>Fiberlite lighting system for aircraft instruments?? .....
Kurt, I recently installed the 'Fiberlite' fiber optic lighting system
into my RV-6A and am very happy with the results. I have a full panel,
and the Fiberlites were a lot less money than paying Spruce for the
quantity of UMA bezels (~$40/ea) or post-lights (~$21/ea) that I needed.
I paid about ~$200 for the Fiberlite kit at Copperstate, and it lights 10
instruments on my panel. The system uses an 8-port base unit where any
single port will light either (1) 3 1/8", (2) 2 1/4" instruments or (1)
9"
label for your switches, very flexible. I used 6 ports for my 6 main
flight instruments (3 1/8"), 1 port to light (2) 2 1/4" and the last port
for (2) more 2 1/4" instruments (the EIs were self-lighting, as were my
clock and voltmeter). I also 'cheated' and 'split' fiber optic strands
from my 9" label above my switches into (2) of the ports so my switch
legends are also lighted. The system took less than 2 hours to install
with no special tools needed. I posted a panel picture on my homepage at
http://www.eaa49.av.org/gifs/fiberlites.htm if you'd like to see them
installed. The lighting is very uniform, and with the dimmer, the lights
can be adjusted to whatever suits you. I've even toyed with colored
bulbs
(red/blue/green/orange) from Wal-Mart just to see the effect (I like the
blue). The black bezels also look super against my light gray panel
too! As Mike Robertson pointed out, the DG bezel slightly covers the
top numbers of the DG but nothing serious. And you don't have to use the
tie-wrap included for mounting. I mounted mine off a small aluminum tab
off the bottom lip of the subpanel, right above my knees (I can reach and
change the single bulb inflight if need be). Worst case failure, I have
'eyeballs' (powered directly off the battery) recessed in the F-6110
decks
that can be used as backup lights (not that I fly a lot at night anyway).
I do have to say that I have not yet used the system at altitude (but
will
next year). I now have upholstery installed and have MANY late night
hours of 'stick time' in the garage using the Fiberlites (I work nights
and
am in the garage a lot after midnight...yea, I turn off the shop lites,
get in the
plane, listen to the 'Moody Blues' and make airplanes noises).
Good luck with your 6A empennage!
Paul Rosales
RV-6A Getting ready to fly in 2000!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RST audio panel |
>
>Where do you get info on RST kits? Is there a web site? How do I get a
>catalog?
>Thanks.
>Chuck
>
I went to the RV-Yeller Pages,
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm searched on RST, and
found the web page:
http://www.rst-engr.com/
Kevin Horton RV-8 (wings skinned, getting ready to do fuselage)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 12/20/99 |
I have a Aero Sport RV-4 steel fuse jig for sale. It has been used once and
includes the birdcage. The jig is located in Nashua, NH and folds into the
bed of a pickup truck. $700. Any NE builders interested? Call Ray at 603
889 3728
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jaugilas <jaugilas(at)allways.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero Seats |
Hey Norm,
Could you share the name of the seatcover place with us. I haven't seen that
available here yet.
If anyone has heard of others, I would be looking for someone in the Chicago
area.
Thanks a Bunch,
Bill Jaugilas
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
> Product Report: Oregon Aero Seats RV6A
>
> I just received my box from Oregon Aero. Four hunks of foam and a catalog
> that shows how they are made. It appears to be quite a process as layers of
> temper-foam are built up in a mold and trimmed to shape. The finished
> product is a fully contoured cushion. The seats are uncovered.
>
> These are probable the most expensive seats available for the RV. Cost was
> conversion to Canadian dollars came to a whopping $900 Canadian. But before
> you go shaking your head, try one out at the next fly-in. They are
> remarkable. If you live near-by you can come over and try mine. I intend my
> aircraft to be primarily a cross country machine and therefore justify the
> cost of comfort.
>
> I haven't chosen a covering yet but I do know that I will add heated seat
> pads to all four cushions. They do not affect the feel of the seat. They use
> 4 amps each on high setting and cost $450 Canadian for all four pads needed.
> They are available locally at a car seatcover place.
>
> I plan to secure them with 2" wide velcro to the aircraft and each one will
> have a plug for the electric heat to make the seats removable.
>
> Norman Hunger
> Working too much to build these last two months.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD first flight pics |
Excellent, congratulations on a job well done
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I added some pics to my webpage showing today's festivities. Now it's time
> for bed. Ooooh, there's gonna be some great dreams tonight!
>
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/finish1.html
>
> Brian Denk
> N94BD
> still grinning
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: parts cleaning solvents |
>
>In a message dated 12/21/99 7:52:09 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
>
><< We use the carburetor cleaner as
> a flux remover for etched circuit boards. >>
>Now that's a new one to me, Bob.
It's a close cousin if not identical to lacquer
thinner . . . evaporates totally and film free.
Aerosol cans with little plastic extender tubes
on nozzel gets in and under tight places. Been
using this stuff for about 20 years.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD first flight pics |
Congratulations ,Ill pass the word on to Lee Beare
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 10:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: N94BD first flight pics
>
> Folks,
>
> I added some pics to my webpage showing today's festivities. Now it's
time
> for bed. Ooooh, there's gonna be some great dreams tonight!
>
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/finish1.html
>
> Brian Denk
> N94BD
> still grinning
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Someone does make a "Poor mans" TCAS. I can't recall the name of the
company right now but an RV-6 builder near me has purchased one. It does
not have a fishfinder display but it does report how close the traffic is.
I'll try to find more info if anyone's interested. This may jog someone
else's memory and perhaps they can supply the name of the company and the
info.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)accessus.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 6:21 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: encoders
Thanks for the correction. I will probably expand this into
an article for
one of my newsletters so I appreciate the help. Too bad,
that TCAS units
are not economically feasible for small privately owned
planes. It would be
nice to remove the human warning element as I have had the
tower fail to
announce critical traffic when in their positive control
zone. Said they
were busy doing something else.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
To: INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: encoders
>
>
>>This automatically, tells the pilot with TCAS
>when you are about to back into their airplane. With the
encoder, the pilot
>with TCAS also is told to turn or climb or dive to avoid
you. This covers
>the blind spot behind you that you never see.<
>
>Thank you for using this forum to advocate safety for
everyone! One minor
>correction. TCAS will not tell the pilot to turn. TCAS II
is the current
>standard and gives climb and descent commands only. TCAS
III, which has
>been abandoned due to technical (algorithm) difficulties
would have
>provided the turn commands.
>
> Not real important but if you see a biz jet (a large
December 18, 1999 - December 23, 1999
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ho