RV-Archive.digest.vol-hs
January 08, 2000 - January 13, 2000
From: | "Hal Kempthorne" <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 11:50 AM
Subject: | Re: New Engine Fuel Pressure |
>
> Hi,
>
> I've been following this fuel pressure thread with interest. Have they
> changed the regs so that a fuel pressure gauge is required even on
> carburetted engines?
>
> Some have reported some very low pressures being indicated. If one
> measures pressure in a pipe and then sinks (consumes) fuel from it at a
> faster volume rate, the pressure will fall. As the flow increases, the
> pressure inside the pipe drops. Climbing at full throttle I you would
> think the pressure would rise as you climb due to the reduction in
> horsepower output - assuming a normally aspirated engine. Surely, the
> pressure measuring system balances out changes in ambient pressure.
>
> I don't see the point in a fuel pressure gauge in a carb engine if you
> aren't concerned about it getting close to zero. I suppose it would help
> diagnosis of a plugged fuel line since the pressure would go up but would
> you be more inclined to cheer? A leaky fuel line would cause a lower
> pressure but would you just say "oh, well"? I can't see any real easy way
> of detecting an incipient failure of the fuel system.
>
> Help me here.
>
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | How does the FAB door fit??? |
Hi all,
I made the filtered air box door to fit the box one inch from the
opening. Now, instructions say cut the hole in the top plate starting 2
1/2 inches from the opening. If I do that, the door will not be open at
one inch from the opening and closed it will hit the bend in the top plate.
Figure 5 looks right but the many lines in the tiny drawing are hard for me
to follow. It does look as tho the top plate cut starts one inch from the
opening as I would suppose. Figure 9 seems to verify this but it is hard
to tell hinge from top plate since they are drawn the same thickness but in
my kit the hinge material is twice as thick as the top plate.
So, what should I do?? I am inclined to ignore the mention of 2 1/2 inches
in the text.
Why is the air box fiberglass instead of aluminum? Surely the rounded
bottom is unneeded?
Why does the whole thing point off five degrees??
Boy, howdy, this thing is complicated!
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
I hesitate to add to this string but I feel I must. I
have heard and been on both sides of the fence on the
tail dragger verses training wheel issues, and for
what its worth, the only reason I didnt build a 8
instead of an 8a is simply economics, think about it
for a minute and I think you will see what I mean.
first off let me state this is not intended to go
against anyones piloting ability ok? ok. now just
think one day your coming in, in your tail dragger and
you have spent how many years putting this thing
together? you somehow ground loop or whatever, it is
back to the shop for a rebuild. I for one, when I am
finished building this great airplane just want to fly
at this point, and not concern myself with going back
to the shop for more rework. not saying it wouldnt
happen to the trikes either, it surely can, all I am
saying is that as I am sure you have all heard, there
are those that have and those that are going to
(groundloop) why take the chance?
all that said I do not want to start an argument of
which one is better or not,yes the taildraggers look
more cool and I am building an 8a, but hey, even an F4
phantom had a nose wheel. nough said.
Glenn Williams
8A wings
FT. WORTH, TX.
A&P mechanic
--- John Sheppard wrote:
>
>
> Tail dragging is definitely a different discipline.
> A pleasure to experience
> in my opinion. I've only got 10 hrs in a tail
> dragger but didn't hesitate to
> build the RV8. I'm looking forward to the
> challenges. Plus, they just look
> so much "cooler"!
>
> John Sheppard (tanks)
> (4000hrs mil, C-141, T-37)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
> Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 9:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
>
> i need advise re: taildrag or nosewheel. i am a low
> time pilot with c-150,
> 172 experience only. i am at the stage of ordering
> wings (tail done), and
> plan to get some tail time during
> fusel/finishing/... what i need to know
> from experienced pilots of both is: tail land and
> take offs that much more
> difficult?? kinda awkward wanting to build a
> taildragger with no time-at
> least up to this point. replys appreciated. bob
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: How does the FAB door fit??? |
If you have the Orndorff finish kit video, it makes this alot easier. I put
the door where it fit...it really was not that important where the door is,
just that it could open and close freely. George took a piece of paper and
made a template from the shape of the snout of the box, then cut out an area
(slightly smaller) for the door opening in the top. Sounds kind of weird,
but it really comes together better if you ditch the drawings and make it
work to your installation.
The 5 degrees off is because the carb on the engine does not sit in the
middle of the engine, relative to the centerline of the airplane, so you
have to have it turned a bit to point at the scoop on the cowl.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal Kempthorne" <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: How does the FAB door fit???
>
> Hi all,
>
> I made the filtered air box door to fit the box one inch from the
> opening. Now, instructions say cut the hole in the top plate starting 2
> 1/2 inches from the opening. If I do that, the door will not be open at
> one inch from the opening and closed it will hit the bend in the top
plate.
>
> Figure 5 looks right but the many lines in the tiny drawing are hard for
me
> to follow. It does look as tho the top plate cut starts one inch from the
> opening as I would suppose. Figure 9 seems to verify this but it is hard
> to tell hinge from top plate since they are drawn the same thickness but
in
> my kit the hinge material is twice as thick as the top plate.
>
> So, what should I do?? I am inclined to ignore the mention of 2 1/2
inches
> in the text.
>
> Why is the air box fiberglass instead of aluminum? Surely the rounded
> bottom is unneeded?
> Why does the whole thing point off five degrees??
>
> Boy, howdy, this thing is complicated!
>
>
> Hal Kempthorne - SJC
> RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
> Debonair N6134V for sale
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
> but hey, even an F4
> phantom had a nose wheel. nough said.
YES, they did....but even the military has enough fashion sense to tuck that
thing away AS SOON as the plane leaves the ground. I think the pilots find
tricycle gear a little embarrasing. Afterall, the mustangs etc all had
tailwheels. ;) Sorry, couldn't resist.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Lane" <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM> |
Subject: | unibit extention |
I remember a comment about a unibit extention being mentioned on the list a couple
of weeks ago. It may have been George and Becky O, but I do not know. Anyone
out there know? I can't find it. If you have an e-mail address for the supplier,
please post. J Lane
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The Von Dane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | New EAA Web Site... |
Just read about a new EAA web site in SA...
Homebuilders Headquarters:
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/index.html
You have to be a member, and type in your username (EAA member number)
and password (lastname) to get in...
The Von Dane's
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: unibit extention |
The shank size of the different Unibits is different you would need to
take your bit with you when you went to get the extension. Also you don't
get to log that time (earlier post) unless you need some P51 time for
your log book.
Garry, The only two r on the list.
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> i know most tool stores carry drill bit extensions, what would be the
> differance?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: New Engine Fuel Pressure |
Good post John.
I wonder if there is something going on regarding the ram effect that the Fab
air box is possibly giving us and the fluctuating fuel pressures readings. Has
anyone ever actually tested to see what the pressure rise is with and without
the Fab Air Box in place, and its effect on fuel flow. I remember something in
18 Years of the Rvator about modifying a carb on a 0-320 because of a problem
the Fab Air Box was causing on that particular airplane.
Garry, bin flying too long to like a mystery.
JohnHeath wrote:
>
> This is information extracted from engine "Type Certification Sheets" at
> the FAA web site:
>
> "...LYCOMING"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Panel Planner |
Scott:
When I first installed Panel Planner it did the same thing. I changed the
location of the equipment directory and it has worked great ever since.
I am happy with the product !!
Len
RV-8A
Fuselage in NC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
I can beat that. I have a friend who took off on a grass field, flew
90 miles home and landed on the grass WHITHOUT a tail wheel.
Yes, the RV was a taildragger.
Tom
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> Oh god.......now I have something new to have nightmares about. Damn, I can
> even vividly imagine what I would feel like just before the wheels touched
> down. Yikes!!
>
> Bill
>
> > The difficulty of landing a tailwheel airplane is overexaggerated
> especially
> > if it's an RV. I happen to know you can successfully land an RV-4 without
> > an operable right rudder pedal. Don't bother asking why I know this!
> > Steve
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
Ok, I can't stay out of this conversation. For two years I wondered which
model I was building. Now my wings are almost finished and two weeks ago I
placed the fuselage order. It was for the -6A. I really like the looks of
the -6, but I'm not a high time tail dragger pilot, but I have some 10+
hours. In the end, perceived safety overruled my heart. BUT>>>>>> What
about building in the real bulkheads for the -6 so that the -6A can be
converted later if I so desire? What about putting in that Float Plane
Engine mount so that the sockets are there for the conventional gear? I
talked to VAN's and they think it can be done. I thinking hard about the
additional bulkhead and parts needed to do this and the weight the ship
gains, but O the flexibility down the road. Another builder in town is
about ready to fly his -6 after many years of building, started I think
before the -6A was available, and he cannot find anyone locally that can
"check him out". There are convention gear fliers around here, like the
banner tow-ers over the ADELIPHA AREAN, home of the Nashville TITANS but so
far he has had no joy. So for me, that frosted the cake and sealed the
decision to build the -6A (well almost, I must admit that a ride today in
CASPER, a RV-6, makes me want to call and change my order on Monday). If
I'm successful in building the ship so that it can be converted, I'm
thinking that opens up a whole new range of possibilities. Has anyone else
tried this and determined just what parts need to be added to the -6A kit to
make this reality?
Marty in Brentwood TN, Tail and Wings - obviously - almost done.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
I know I'm the new guy and all around here, but I've done a little dragin'
tail and I've got to say something here. If you're a young, low time
aviator, don't miss any of the experience. Any basic flying skill you
achieve, will sooner or later become automatic. Whether it's compensating
for "P" factor or making sure the nose is pointed straight down the runway,
the time will come when gray matter is not involved in a conscious way. An
airplane has body language and personality. You can feel it move under you
and your mind can hear it think. Flying a tail dragger is no big thing, you
should try rolling a helicopter. It all boils down to what YOU think looks
and feels right. My personal choice, in spite of periodic unannounced
sphincter muscle airworthiness checks, is the tail dragger.
J D Heath
Sill dreaming
----- Original Message -----
From: "glenn williams" <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
> I hesitate to add to this string but I feel I must. I
> have heard and been on both sides of the fence on the
> tail dragger verses training wheel issues, and for
> what its worth, the only reason I didnt build a 8
> instead of an 8a is simply economics, think about it
> for a minute and I think you will see what I mean.
> first off let me state this is not intended to go
> against anyones piloting ability ok? ok. now just
> think one day your coming in, in your tail dragger and
> you have spent how many years putting this thing
> together? you somehow ground loop or whatever, it is
> back to the shop for a rebuild. I for one, when I am
> finished building this great airplane just want to fly
> at this point, and not concern myself with going back
> to the shop for more rework. not saying it wouldnt
> happen to the trikes either, it surely can, all I am
> saying is that as I am sure you have all heard, there
> are those that have and those that are going to
> (groundloop) why take the chance?
> all that said I do not want to start an argument of
> which one is better or not,yes the taildraggers look
> more cool and I am building an 8a, but hey, even an F4
> phantom had a nose wheel. nough said.
>
> Glenn Williams
> 8A wings
> FT. WORTH, TX.
> A&P mechanic
>
> --- John Sheppard wrote:
> >
> >
> > Tail dragging is definitely a different discipline.
> > A pleasure to experience
> > in my opinion. I've only got 10 hrs in a tail
> > dragger but didn't hesitate to
> > build the RV8. I'm looking forward to the
> > challenges. Plus, they just look
> > so much "cooler"!
> >
> > John Sheppard (tanks)
> > (4000hrs mil, C-141, T-37)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
> > Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 9:41 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
> >
> >
> > i need advise re: taildrag or nosewheel. i am a low
> > time pilot with c-150,
> > 172 experience only. i am at the stage of ordering
> > wings (tail done), and
> > plan to get some tail time during
> > fusel/finishing/... what i need to know
> > from experienced pilots of both is: tail land and
> > take offs that much more
> > difficult?? kinda awkward wanting to build a
> > taildragger with no time-at
> > least up to this point. replys appreciated. bob
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
I meant to say "ADELIPHA ARENA" (well all the letters were there- just not
in the right order - my fingers are cold from working on that $#%
wing).
----- Original Message -----
From: Emrath <Emrath(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
> Ok, I can't stay out of this conversation. For two years I wondered which
> model I was building. Now my wings are almost finished and two weeks ago
I
> placed the fuselage order. It was for the -6A. I really like the looks
of
> the -6, but I'm not a high time tail dragger pilot, but I have some 10+
> hours. In the end, perceived safety overruled my heart. BUT>>>>>> What
> about building in the real bulkheads for the -6 so that the -6A can be
> converted later if I so desire? What about putting in that Float Plane
> Engine mount so that the sockets are there for the conventional gear? I
> talked to VAN's and they think it can be done. I thinking hard about the
> additional bulkhead and parts needed to do this and the weight the ship
> gains, but O the flexibility down the road. Another builder in town is
> about ready to fly his -6 after many years of building, started I think
> before the -6A was available, and he cannot find anyone locally that can
> "check him out". There are convention gear fliers around here, like the
> banner tow-ers over the ADELIPHA AREAN, home of the Nashville TITANS but
so
> far he has had no joy. So for me, that frosted the cake and sealed the
> decision to build the -6A (well almost, I must admit that a ride today in
> CASPER, a RV-6, makes me want to call and change my order on Monday).
If
> I'm successful in building the ship so that it can be converted, I'm
> thinking that opens up a whole new range of possibilities. Has anyone
else
> tried this and determined just what parts need to be added to the -6A kit
to
> make this reality?
>
> Marty in Brentwood TN, Tail and Wings - obviously - almost done.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
ok. now just
>think one day your coming in, in your tail dragger and
>you have spent how many years putting this thing
>together? you somehow ground loop
>il, C-141, T-37)
So how many of the RV-_ 's have been ground looped successfully (or
unsuccessfully) to date?
L.Coats RV6 355.2hr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
> Has anyone else
> tried this and determined just what parts need to be added to the -6A kit to
> make this reality?
Hi Marty,
The RVator had a story on changing a 6 from tail to nose dragger this spring
or summer. I think so it could be used as a transitional trainer. I thought it
was being done at Van's shop prototype shop actually....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
L. Coats wrote:
>
> ok. now just
> >think one day your coming in, in your tail dragger and
> >you have spent how many years putting this thing
> >together? you somehow ground loop
> >il, C-141, T-37)
>
> So how many of the RV-_ 's have been ground looped successfully (or
> unsuccessfully) to date?
It would be in the NTSB records under "accident on landing". I think
the info is in the archives somewhere..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
I also want to point out that George, Becki, and
myself and another 6a builder named Steve went to
recover a 6 that was ground looped in south Texas this
last summer, and it was pretty torn up. of course
George worked his magic and got the a/c flying again
pretty quick which speaks well of the design the gear
legs were torn up and twisted and about to break off
the right hand wing was bent at the tip and leading
edge but like I said there are those that have and
those that are gonna and look at the months lost in
flying time
Glenn Williams
8A WINGS
FT. WORTH, TX.
A&P MECH.
--- "L. Coats" wrote:
>
>
> ok. now just
> >think one day your coming in, in your tail dragger
> and
> >you have spent how many years putting this thing
> >together? you somehow ground loop
> >il, C-141, T-37)
>
> So how many of the RV-_ 's have been ground looped
> successfully (or
> unsuccessfully) to date?
>
> L.Coats RV6 355.2hr
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
that is Mike seagers airplane that he teaches you guys
how to fly in
Glenn Williams
8a wings
--- David Burton wrote:
>
>
> > Has anyone else
> > tried this and determined just what parts need to
> be added to the -6A kit to
> > make this reality?
>
> Hi Marty,
>
> The RVator had a story on changing a 6 from tail
> to nose dragger this spring
> or summer. I think so it could be used as a
> transitional trainer. I thought it
> was being done at Van's shop prototype shop
> actually....
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: instrument holes cut with water |
In a message dated 1/8/00 9:51:07 AM Pacific Standard Time, donspawn(at)juno.com
writes:
<< Gary, if this gets through, will you add it to the yeller Pages. >>
I've got it scheduled for the next rev. If people post 'em I add 'em. I
don't miss much.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
I finally decided on my RV the intelligent way. I always thought the 6A looks
better on the ground & the taildragger looks better in the air. Since I would
always be "looking" at mine from the outside while stationary on the ground,
the tough decision was finally made. And it did take months to finally
decide.
Larry Adamson RV6A ---- fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
Listers
A friend of mine in Prince George is building a RV-6/6A. He has put the
tailwheel assy in place but he has also fitted the gear parts for the 6A
main gear. He intends to fly it as a 6 for now. He did install the float
gear engine mount with no problems. I would say he could convert it from one
to the other in about one to two days work once its flying. If anyone is
interested, I could get some photos and post them to my web page.
Ted French
RV-6A flying 55hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "JohnHeath" <jdheath(at)premierweb.net>
Sent: Friday, January 08, 1999 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
> I know I'm the new guy and all around here, but I've done a little dragin'
> tail and I've got to say something here. If you're a young, low time
> aviator, don't miss any of the experience. Any basic flying skill you
> achieve, will sooner or later become automatic. Whether it's compensating
> for "P" factor or making sure the nose is pointed straight down the
runway,
> the time will come when gray matter is not involved in a conscious way. An
> airplane has body language and personality. You can feel it move under you
> and your mind can hear it think. Flying a tail dragger is no big thing,
you
> should try rolling a helicopter. It all boils down to what YOU think looks
> and feels right. My personal choice, in spite of periodic unannounced
> sphincter muscle airworthiness checks, is the tail dragger.
>
> J D Heath
> Sill dreaming
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "glenn williams" <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 6:14 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
>
> >
> > I hesitate to add to this string but I feel I must. I
> > have heard and been on both sides of the fence on the
> > tail dragger verses training wheel issues, and for
> > what its worth, the only reason I didnt build a 8
> > instead of an 8a is simply economics, think about it
> > for a minute and I think you will see what I mean.
> > first off let me state this is not intended to go
> > against anyones piloting ability ok? ok. now just
> > think one day your coming in, in your tail dragger and
> > you have spent how many years putting this thing
> > together? you somehow ground loop or whatever, it is
> > back to the shop for a rebuild. I for one, when I am
> > finished building this great airplane just want to fly
> > at this point, and not concern myself with going back
> > to the shop for more rework. not saying it wouldnt
> > happen to the trikes either, it surely can, all I am
> > saying is that as I am sure you have all heard, there
> > are those that have and those that are going to
> > (groundloop) why take the chance?
> > all that said I do not want to start an argument of
> > which one is better or not,yes the taildraggers look
> > more cool and I am building an 8a, but hey, even an F4
> > phantom had a nose wheel. nough said.
> >
> > Glenn Williams
> > 8A wings
> > FT. WORTH, TX.
> > A&P mechanic
> >
> > --- John Sheppard wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Tail dragging is definitely a different discipline.
> > > A pleasure to experience
> > > in my opinion. I've only got 10 hrs in a tail
> > > dragger but didn't hesitate to
> > > build the RV8. I'm looking forward to the
> > > challenges. Plus, they just look
> > > so much "cooler"!
> > >
> > > John Sheppard (tanks)
> > > (4000hrs mil, C-141, T-37)
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> > > Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
> > > Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 9:41 PM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
> > >
> > >
> > > i need advise re: taildrag or nosewheel. i am a low
> > > time pilot with c-150,
> > > 172 experience only. i am at the stage of ordering
> > > wings (tail done), and
> > > plan to get some tail time during
> > > fusel/finishing/... what i need to know
> > > from experienced pilots of both is: tail land and
> > > take offs that much more
> > > difficult?? kinda awkward wanting to build a
> > > taildragger with no time-at
> > > least up to this point. replys appreciated. bob
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > through
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > > Matronics!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> > http://im.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
>>
>> So how many of the RV-_ 's have been ground looped successfully (or
>> unsuccessfully) to date?
>
>It would be in the NTSB records under "accident on landing". I think
>the info is in the archives somewhere..
>
I was thinking that there could me groundloops that don't get reported there.
L.Coats
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan E. Files" <BFiles(at)corecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: New Engine Fuel Pressure |
Hal,
I am not sure but I think that with a low wing aircraft with the O-360 you
have an engine driven pump, and if this pump fails or starts to fail you
will see a drop in fuel press and know that it is time to hit the boost
pump... also nice to watch while switching tanks.
**** Bryan E. Files ****
Ever Fly Maintenance
Palmer, Alaska
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
> I don't see the point in a fuel pressure gauge in a carb engine if you
> aren't concerned about it getting close to zero. I suppose it would help
> diagnosis of a plugged fuel line since the pressure would go up but would
> you be more inclined to cheer? A leaky fuel line would cause a lower
> pressure but would you just say "oh, well"? I can't see any real easy way
> of detecting an incipient failure of the fuel system.
>
> Help me here.
>
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: unibit extention |
George makes them - about $10 each if I remember correctly. Mine worked
well.
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Lane <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM>
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 4:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: unibit extention
>
> I remember a comment about a unibit extention being mentioned on the list
a couple of weeks ago. It may have been George and Becky O, but I do not
know. Anyone out there know? I can't find it. If you have an e-mail address
for the supplier, please post. J Lane
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
Subject: | Engine Fuel Pressure |
I think there are a couple of compelling reasons to have a fuel pressure
gauge. One is that you have a baseline for normal operations. My pressure
always runs between 2-4psi, depending on power output. If it was higher or
lower, whatever the reason, it would be cause for investigation.
Probably the best reason though, is that on a hot day after a quick
refueling stop, there can be a significant amount of vapor in the fuel
lines, which causes very erratic readings on the gauge. Mine will have a
high frequency wobble between .5 and 3. It's a very simple matter to runup
until the gauge reads a normal, steady pressure. It doesn't happen very
often, but I certainly wouldn't want to takeoff in that state.
I plan my XC fuel stop so that I always have 10 gallons or more fuel
remaining, but if someone were inclined to fly with less, or if an emergency
caused you to need ALL of your fuel, you could fly on one tank until the
pressure started to drop and then switch tanks before the engine sputters.
Ed Bundy RV6a 320 hours
I don't see the point in a fuel pressure gauge in a carb engine if you
aren't concerned about it getting close to zero. I suppose it would help
diagnosis of a plugged fuel line since the pressure would go up but would
you be more inclined to cheer? A leaky fuel line would cause a lower
pressure but would you just say "oh, well"? I can't see any real easy way
of detecting an incipient failure of the fuel system.
Help me here.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: 5th point attach |
Steve, check the "Bunny's Guide" if you have access to the web. You can
download a drawing for the 6 from there. Don't know what plane you have,
and I'm sorry I don't have the url for this. Someone will surely post the
url.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A fiberglass @#$%@$
----------
>
> after checking the archives I am still left with the burning question
of
> what to do with the crotch strap or fifth point attach .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Subject: | Spinner on C/S Prop |
The manual supplement for installation of a C/S spinner refers to a
S-604 spacer between the backplate and the prop hub. This part did not
come with my spinner kit and is not listed in the spinner kit parts
list. Furthermore, the figure in the supplement does not give
dimensions that would allow me to make the spacer. I have the same
Hartzell prop that Van sells but I did not purchase it from Van's.
Perhaps the spacer is included with the prop from Van's. Can anyone shed
some light on this? I hate to stop while Van's ship me a silly spacer.
Ken Harrill
RV-6 cowling
South Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: How does the FAB door fit??? |
>
> Hi all,
>
> I made the filtered air box door to fit the box one inch from the
> opening. Now, instructions say cut the hole in the top plate starting 2
> 1/2 inches from the opening. If I do that, the door will not be open at
> one inch from the opening and closed it will hit the bend in the top
plate.
I used the bend in the top plate to locate the door, the hinge line was
probably only 3/4" from the front of the aluminum top plate.
> Why is the air box fiberglass instead of aluminum? Surely the rounded
> bottom is unneeded?
Better induction pressure probably.
> Why does the whole thing point off five degrees??
Because the carb is off center, but the intake mouth on the scoop is
centered.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Spinner on C/S Prop |
that is a hartzell part and should be with the prop. if the prop does not
have the spacers on it you will have to get them from a prop shop or make
them. hartzell also uses two different bolts on the prop. different
lengths for props with spacers and with out.
R. Burns
RV-4 s/n 3524 N82RB been there done that
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Date: Saturday, January 08, 2000 11:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spinner on C/S Prop
>
>The manual supplement for installation of a C/S spinner refers to a
>S-604 spacer between the backplate and the prop hub. This part did not
>come with my spinner kit and is not listed in the spinner kit parts
>list. Furthermore, the figure in the supplement does not give
>dimensions that would allow me to make the spacer. I have the same
>Hartzell prop that Van sells but I did not purchase it from Van's.
>Perhaps the spacer is included with the prop from Van's. Can anyone shed
>some light on this? I hate to stop while Van's ship me a silly spacer.
>
>Ken Harrill
>RV-6 cowling
>South Carolina
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RodWoodard(at)aol.com |
This is only marginally related so those of you with a sensitive BS sensor
just hit the delete key now!
I'd just like to suggest an alternate use for all the tools and skills we
acquire while building airplanes... I've been spending the last several
days--yes that's right, DAYS--installing a new stereo in my car. I hope
whoever ends up stealing it appreciates the expert use of AN hardware,
nutplates, and that nifty little crimping tool that Bob Nuckolls sells!
Best regards to all.
Rod Woodard
Ft. Collins, Colorado
RV-3B, #11339, empennage
535i with a nifty new stereo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: 5th point attach |
Alex Peterson wrote:
> Steve, check the "Bunny's Guide" if you have access to the web. You can
> download a drawing for the 6 from there. Don't know what plane you have,
> and I'm sorry I don't have the url for this. Someone will surely post the
> url.
http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny3b.htm to go directly to the
"Fuselage In Jig" page (which contains the 5th-point attach section),
http://members.xoom.com/frankvdh/bunny.htm to go to the main index.
There's a set of plans of one type of attach point, plus two (mine and
Mel Jordan's) sets of pictures of attach points built from these plans.
Also links to other pages with relevanrt info.
Frank.
(Keeper of the "Bunny's Guide")
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | sharon <rijkers(at)mweb.co.za> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Emrath <Emrath(at)home.com>
Date: 09 January 2000 05:19
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
>I meant to say "ADELIPHA ARENA" (well all the letters were there- just not
>in the right order - my fingers are cold from working on that $#%
wing).
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Emrath <Emrath(at)home.com>
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 8:34 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
>
>>
>> Ok, I can't stay out of this conversation. For two years I wondered
which
>> model I was building. Now my wings are almost finished and two weeks ago
>I
>> placed the fuselage order. It was for the -6A. I really like the looks
>of
>> the -6, but I'm not a high time tail dragger pilot, but I have some 10+
>> hours. In the end, perceived safety overruled my heart. BUT>>>>>> What
>> about building in the real bulkheads for the -6 so that the -6A can be
>> converted later if I so desire? >>
>> Marty in Brentwood TN, Tail and Wings - obviously - almost done.
>>
>>
>
>
I have been working on the 6A for 18 months and also still have my doubts if
I should not
convert to the 6
It is no problem to install the tailcone bulkheads as per 6; just a matter
of ordering a few extra
components.
What concerns me me in respect of the final choice is illustrated by some
recent news from the
grapevine;
1) Rv6A with TT of 7 hrs breaks frontleg on landing --- ac severely
damaged ( new improved leg )
2)Rv4 with engine failure lands in rough field --- ac written off
3) Lushcombe with old hand at the controls makes precautionary
landing for weather on a dirt road, and
groundloops after hitting a pothole ---ac severely damaged
Looking forward to some comment from the experts
J Rijkers
Rv6A - Wings 90%
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
Never flown a taildragger but I will if I ever get the rv4 finished.
Reading this rv list each day has probably cut my building time in
half. I'll just take my chances on the groundloop after I get my
training. I also fly a plane that tucks the wheels after you leave
terefirma and you know what they say about that, but I have yet to
forget to extend them, am I doing something wrong?
Earl rv4 wanafly builder
sharon wrote:
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Emrath <Emrath(at)home.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: 09 January 2000 05:19
> Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
> >
> >I meant to say "ADELIPHA ARENA" (well all the letters were there- just not
> >in the right order - my fingers are cold from working on that $#%
wing).
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Emrath <Emrath(at)home.com>
> >To:
> >Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 8:34 PM
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Ok, I can't stay out of this conversation. For two years I wondered
> which
> >> model I was building. Now my wings are almost finished and two weeks ago
> >I
> >> placed the fuselage order. It was for the -6A. I really like the looks
> >of
> >> the -6, but I'm not a high time tail dragger pilot, but I have some 10+
> >> hours. In the end, perceived safety overruled my heart. BUT>>>>>> What
> >> about building in the real bulkheads for the -6 so that the -6A can be
> >> converted later if I so desire? >>
> >> Marty in Brentwood TN, Tail and Wings - obviously - almost done.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> I have been working on the 6A for 18 months and also still have my doubts if
> I should not
> convert to the 6
> It is no problem to install the tailcone bulkheads as per 6; just a matter
> of ordering a few extra
> components.
> What concerns me me in respect of the final choice is illustrated by some
> recent news from the
> grapevine;
>
> 1) Rv6A with TT of 7 hrs breaks frontleg on landing --- ac severely
> damaged ( new improved leg )
>
> 2)Rv4 with engine failure lands in rough field --- ac written off
>
> 3) Lushcombe with old hand at the controls makes precautionary
> landing for weather on a dirt road, and
> groundloops after hitting a pothole ---ac severely damaged
>
> Looking forward to some comment from the experts
>
> J Rijkers
> Rv6A - Wings 90%
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 5th point attach |
If you buy the Morris Technologies Belts (Schroth belts) from Dan Morris, he
will send you detailed drawings on how to attach the "5th point".
Scroth makes belts for AirBus, etc. and has been making them for the Glider,
Airline, and GA market for over ten years. They have been making belts for
auto and racing boats a lot longer than ten years. An impressive belt and
impressive engineering. You can release the shoulder harnes (for long
reaches) without releasing the whole belt. Good color selection as well.
Dan Morris will custom make up what you need it the standard does not meet
your needs. And, Dan flys a RV6. Find Dan at:
http://www.icdc.com/~morristec
david faile, fairfield, ct
mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor
eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
rv6 (n44df) started
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
> you somehow ground loop or whatever, it is
> back to the shop for a rebuild. I for one, when I am
> finished building this great airplane just want to fly
> at this point, and not concern myself with going back
> to the shop for more rework. not saying it wouldnt
> happen to the trikes either, it surely can, all I am
> saying is that as I am sure you have all heard, there
> are those that have and those that are going to
> (groundloop) why take the chance?
> all that said I do not want to start an argument of
> which one is better or not,yes the taildraggers look
> more cool and I am building an 8a, but hey, even an F4
> phantom had a nose wheel. nough said.
>
> Glenn Williams
> 8A wings
> FT. WORTH, TX.
> A&P mechanic
Glenn,
In Fact, I have ground looped the F-4C. On my first solo ride, i.e. the
backseater was a student Weapons System Operator, I blew a tire at touchdown
which was about 140 knots. You haven't lived until you are going down the
runway sideways at the speed. The plane was bucking like crazy and I was
able to blow the other tire and the plane straighten up and the bucking was
at least happening with the pointly end going down the runway. Does 90
degrees count???
I also managed to get the plane to spin around on the ground at a very slow
taxi speed. I was the first guy to land after some work was done on the
runway. It had also rained. The sealer and the rain turned the runway into
a ice rink. As I was turning off the end of a 12,000 foot runway, the plane
just went around as nice as can be. I ended up in the overrun but was able
to taxi out. I called the tower and told them that the end of the runway
was bad in time to watch the next plane do the same thing. I don't think
tower believed me until the next guy did it too.
Tom Gummo
Retired F-4G pilot
Apple Valley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
snip
> additional bulkhead and parts needed to do this and the weight the ship
> gains, but O the flexibility down the road. Another builder in town is
> about ready to fly his -6 after many years of building, started I think
> before the -6A was available, and he cannot find anyone locally that can
> "check him out". There are convention gear fliers around here, like the
> banner tow-ers over the ADELIPHA AREAN, home of the Nashville TITANS but so
> far he has had no joy. So for me, that frosted the cake and sealed the
> decision to build the -6A (well almost, I must admit that a ride today in
> CASPER, a RV-6, makes me want to call and change my order on Monday). If
snip
> Marty in Brentwood TN, Tail and Wings - obviously - almost done.
>
I'm always surprised when someone says that they can't find a TD
instructor, because even though G A is rather weak around here tail
dragger instructors are plentiful.
If your friend wants a tail dragger checkout so he can then test fly his
-6, that seems unwise at best. But if he wants to be checked out after
reasonable test time has been flown by an experienced pilot, email me
off list for some names of T D instructors in Mississippi & west TN.
Charlie
Flying -4
Slobovia Outernational
Jackson MS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
>
> 1) Rv6A with TT of 7 hrs breaks frontleg on landing --- ac severely
> damaged ( new improved leg )
>
> 2)Rv4 with engine failure lands in rough field --- ac written off
>
> 3) Lushcombe with old hand at the controls makes precautionary
> landing for weather on a dirt road, and
> groundloops after hitting a pothole ---ac severely damaged
>
> Looking forward to some comment from the experts
>
> J Rijkers
> Rv6A - Wings 90%
>
I'm no expert, but these don't appear to need one:
1) landed on nose gear
2) landed in rough field
3) hit a pothole on a dirt road
Next question?
Seriously, I think your answer is imbedded in your question. Pilot
technique and specific conditions make more difference than gear
configuration.
I think that most people can learn to fly taildraggers if they can learn
to fly at all (I did). There is no question that it will make you a
better pilot, and you will pay more for insurance.
Charlie
Flying -4
(everything's easy after the Luscombe)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | why a Fuel Pressure gage? (my procedures) |
In a message dated 1/8/0 20:55:53, BFiles(at)corecom.net writes:
<<
Hal,
I am not sure but I think that with a low wing aircraft with the O-360 you
have an engine driven pump, and if this pump fails or starts to fail you
will see a drop in fuel press and know that it is time to hit the boost
pump... also nice to watch while switching tanks.
**** Bryan E. Files **** >>
I agree.
My procedures in my 180 HP carb plane include using the fuel pressure quite a
bit. Here are some which come to mind:
1. At engine start, I always turn on the elec pump before start and note the
noise and rise in fuel pressure. This tells me it is working and will fill
all the lines and carb with fuel to insure a quick start.
2. Before engine start on an ops stop or hot engine situation. I check the
fuel press before I do any check list at all. If it is over 5 psi, I suspect
vapor lock and use hot start procedures.
3. After engine start (on mechanical pump), I check the fuel pressure to
make sure the pump is working.
4. At end of runway, I turn on boost pump and observe a rise in the
pressure, before take off.
5. After climb out a thousand feet, I turn off the boost pump and observe
the pressure. Any time I switch tanks, I turn on boost pump and check
pressure.
6. On the very rare times when I run a tank to empty, I turn on the boost
pump and watch the pressure like a hawk. When it starts to dive it is time
to switch tanks. If you catch it teh engine won't stumble. If you don't
catch it you get a few seconds of sputtering, revving and religious
experience, if you have a constant speed propand don't think to pull the
throtle back. which you won't since you already forgot to be watching the
pressure.
There are more but this should be enough to convey my philosophy. The fuel
pressure gage is the highest on my scan prioity after the oil pressure.
Don't need one with a gravity system . need one with a pump.
One man's opinions
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Spinner on C/S Prop |
In a message dated 1/8/0 22:28:32, KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us writes:
The manual supplement for installation of a C/S spinner refers to a
S-604 spacer between the backplate and the prop hub. This part did not
come with my spinner kit and is not listed in the spinner kit parts
list. Furthermore, the figure in the supplement does not give
dimensions that would allow me to make the spacer. I have the same
Hartzell prop that Van sells but I did not purchase it from Van's.
Perhaps the spacer is included with the prop from Van's. Can anyone shed
some light on this? I hate to stop while Van's ship me a silly spacer.
Ken Harrill
RV-6 cowling
South Carolina >>
I doubt they would have it anyway. Mine came with the prop, so it was packed
by Hartzell.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: 5th point attach |
As an avid and practicing auto racer (GT-3s) I can tell you that although
scroth belts have been around for quite some time, they are far from
prevalent because they cost too much and deliver no more safety than simpson
or a host of other makers who have also been around since the wheel was
invented. I know my simpson 6 point system (cam lock) cost $170
each....just for comparison.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFaile(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2000 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 5th point attach
>
> If you buy the Morris Technologies Belts (Schroth belts) from Dan Morris,
he
> will send you detailed drawings on how to attach the "5th point".
>
> Scroth makes belts for AirBus, etc. and has been making them for the
Glider,
> Airline, and GA market for over ten years. They have been making belts for
> auto and racing boats a lot longer than ten years. An impressive belt and
> impressive engineering. You can release the shoulder harnes (for long
> reaches) without releasing the whole belt. Good color selection as well.
>
> Dan Morris will custom make up what you need it the standard does not meet
> your needs. And, Dan flys a RV6. Find Dan at:
>
> http://www.icdc.com/~morristec
>
> david faile, fairfield, ct
> mcfii/a&p faa aviation safety counselor
> eaa technical counselor/flight advisor
> christen eagle ii since '82 (n13bf)
> rv6 (n44df) started
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Subject: | Re: Panel Planner Warning! |
> As another lister has already said, the real usefulness of Panel Planner
> is in being able to visually juxtapose a variety of avionics in many
> different ways until arriving at a panel that is visually appealing to
> you and ergonomically well thought out.
George (and all),
Indeed this is true as many have pointed out. But here is my objection; what
good are the various scenarios if you don't know if they will actually work?
You are making design, and possibly purchase decisions, based on bad data.
> Sorry to hear about your panel woes, and I hope you are able to modify
> your layout in a way that you can still be happy with. You may have
> saved others from the same fate
Actually I'm quite pleased with my new design, so in the end it worked out
nicely. As you mentioned, my reason for posting the warning was simply to
warn other builders so they could avoid similar fate.
BTW, I would gladly sell my copy of Panel Planner for $50. This would of
course include the CD and manual.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel, interior painting, and a million other things.
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
<< There is no question that it will make you a
better pilot, and you will pay more for insurance. >>
Now THERE'S a paradox.
I have only read perhaps 20% of this thread, as it seems destined not to
resolve much, but I notice a recurrent theme: mastery of the tailwheel makes
one a "better" pilot. I suppose the same could be said for mastering the
skills of firing a pistol at another aircraft while engaged in a dogfight, or
precision flour-bombing your neighbor's house. No doubt those who can catch
the three-wire on a carrier deck at night are "better pilots" than those who
can't or haven't. Following this line of reasoning, we might propose flying
with one's ankles duct-taped together, or the brakes disabled, or the
ailerons removed, or sufficient fuel on board to reach the destination with 1
minute of reserve, for each of these excercises would call on a particular
set of piloting skills in a most demanding fashion, thus proving one a
"better pilot." (Why not build an RV with fifteen degrees negative dihedral,
so that the airframe is constantly trying to get upside down, just as the
taildragger always wants to swap ends on the runway? Think what a better
pilot you would be!) But what would really be the point? Is there a
practical reason we would want to operate our aircraft in this way on a
consistent basis? Is there a mitigating safety benefit that would justify
the risk of these excercises even once?
When I look at tailwheel flying through this analytical grid, I answer
negatively. Knowing that the fam flight I was about to get with Mike in 66RV
would be taildragger time, I got 1.5 TD hours the week before, and 2.1 hrs
with Mike. None of it was particularly hair-raising, and I have no reason to
think I would not make a good taildragger pilot with further training, but
there is no compelling reason to pursue this for the flying I wish to do.
All smoke-blowing aside, there is a reason those "better" pilots end up
paying the higher premiums, and it's not unfair bias on the part of the
insurance company. The ground handling of tail wheel aircraft is more
difficult and has more failure modes than its tricycle gear counterpart.
Except for rough bush operations, the upside to the GA tail wheel is not
readily obvious. I believe the nosewheel was an _improvement_ in civil
aircraft design, just like the GUI in computing. Still need to type your
commands in DOS? Go ahead. I'd rather point and click. All my apps run in
Windows, so this only makes sense for me. Have a true need for the
advantages of the tailwheel? Then knock yourself out. Just don't tell me
that strapping on a more demanding airframe if there are safer alternatives
available to fly the same mission makes you more "cool" than it does more
"foolish." If you want to impress me with your skills, try disconnecting the
elevator push tube and landing with pitch trim only. Let me know how you
enjoyed it, and whether you'd care to fly that way all the time. Afterward,
I'm going to ask you how this differs from choosing a tail wheel when the
nose gear would have done the job (Ah, logic: the exploitative tool of the
angry white male. Don't you just hate it?)
So... RV-6 or RV-6A; which is the one fror you? Make this decision based on
more than someone else's idea of pilot machismo... you are going to be stuck
with it for a long time, until the interchangeable 6/6A is perfected.
-Bill B RV-6A with sissy training wheel up front, happy with the arrangement
so far.
I'm going out to practice air to air combat with my sidearm now... you'll
have to be good at this to impress me with your tailwheel skills :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/9/0 7:31:42, tg1965(at)linkline.com writes:
<< was
at least happening with the pointly end going down the runway. Does 90
degrees count??? >>
Hell no that is not even a ground chandelle
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/8/2000 11:29:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com writes:
> Ken,
>
> The 0 over the 7/16 that you see is the position of the top rivet hole
> in the R-802 spar. The 8 1/16 inch dimension seems to be missing from
> revision 4 of drawing 7PP. Thanks to those who provided the
> information. I sent a note to Van's to let them know.
>
> Bob
> RV-8AQ Rudder
Bob,
Thanks for the clarification. With a little more thought I was able to infer
the correct position from the plans and the parts. I had planned on
finishing the rudder today, but it looks like I'm going to need to order
3/32" pop rivet dimple dies to get the stiffener holes along the trailing
edge. Oh, well. I'm sure I can find something else to do for the next
couple of days. Maybe the elevators...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
YES!!!! I stayed out of this because I could not figure out a way to say
exactly what you just said. Very well put, Bill.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (Notice the Drag Creating Sissy Training Wheel) (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2000 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
>
> << There is no question that it will make you a
> better pilot, and you will pay more for insurance. >>
>
> Now THERE'S a paradox.
>
> I have only read perhaps 20% of this thread, as it seems destined not to
> resolve much, but I notice a recurrent theme: mastery of the tailwheel
makes
> one a "better" pilot. I suppose the same could be said for mastering the
> skills of firing a pistol at another aircraft while engaged in a dogfight,
or
> precision flour-bombing your neighbor's house. No doubt those who can
catch
> the three-wire on a carrier deck at night are "better pilots" than those
who
> can't or haven't. Following this line of reasoning, we might propose
flying
> with one's ankles duct-taped together, or the brakes disabled, or the
> ailerons removed, or sufficient fuel on board to reach the destination
with 1
> minute of reserve, for each of these excercises would call on a particular
> set of piloting skills in a most demanding fashion, thus proving one a
> "better pilot." (Why not build an RV with fifteen degrees negative
dihedral,
> so that the airframe is constantly trying to get upside down, just as the
> taildragger always wants to swap ends on the runway? Think what a better
> pilot you would be!) But what would really be the point? Is there a
> practical reason we would want to operate our aircraft in this way on a
> consistent basis? Is there a mitigating safety benefit that would justify
> the risk of these excercises even once?
>
> When I look at tailwheel flying through this analytical grid, I answer
> negatively. Knowing that the fam flight I was about to get with Mike in
66RV
> would be taildragger time, I got 1.5 TD hours the week before, and 2.1 hrs
> with Mike. None of it was particularly hair-raising, and I have no reason
to
> think I would not make a good taildragger pilot with further training, but
> there is no compelling reason to pursue this for the flying I wish to do.
> All smoke-blowing aside, there is a reason those "better" pilots end up
> paying the higher premiums, and it's not unfair bias on the part of the
> insurance company. The ground handling of tail wheel aircraft is more
> difficult and has more failure modes than its tricycle gear counterpart.
>
> Except for rough bush operations, the upside to the GA tail wheel is not
> readily obvious. I believe the nosewheel was an _improvement_ in civil
> aircraft design, just like the GUI in computing. Still need to type your
> commands in DOS? Go ahead. I'd rather point and click. All my apps run
in
> Windows, so this only makes sense for me. Have a true need for the
> advantages of the tailwheel? Then knock yourself out. Just don't tell me
> that strapping on a more demanding airframe if there are safer
alternatives
> available to fly the same mission makes you more "cool" than it does more
> "foolish." If you want to impress me with your skills, try disconnecting
the
> elevator push tube and landing with pitch trim only. Let me know how you
> enjoyed it, and whether you'd care to fly that way all the time.
Afterward,
> I'm going to ask you how this differs from choosing a tail wheel when the
> nose gear would have done the job (Ah, logic: the exploitative tool of the
> angry white male. Don't you just hate it?)
>
> So... RV-6 or RV-6A; which is the one fror you? Make this decision based
on
> more than someone else's idea of pilot machismo... you are going to be
stuck
> with it for a long time, until the interchangeable 6/6A is perfected.
>
> -Bill B RV-6A with sissy training wheel up front, happy with the
arrangement
> so far.
> I'm going out to practice air to air combat with my sidearm now... you'll
> have to be good at this to impress me with your tailwheel skills :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Fuel Selector Valve |
I have Vans 3 port fuel valve as supplied with the rv4 kit and would
like to use it. If mounted in the floor I would like to set it up so
the the pointed end of the handle will point toward the tank in use.
If I do this the center port will have to be pluged. When switching
tanks I will have to go through the off position (center port) to get
to the other tank. Is this dangerous, is there any possibility that
it could get stuck in that position? I know several have suggested
the andair. Is it that much better or safer than the one supplied by
Van.
Earl still trying to make up my mind
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6-Seat Rib Placement |
Greetings,
If I position the seat ribs #618 (2nd from center) according to plans
dimensions, I'll need to modify the web to allow access to the nut at the top &
bottom where the spar bolt goes thru the flange. I'd rather move the rib 3/16
outboard which will center the holes on the flange & allow access to the nuts
-- but ... I know that is an important area for control stick movement and
I
certainly don't want to find out later that I created a problem with that.
Any answers out there?
Sincerely,
David Wentzell - Racine, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve |
>
>
>I have Vans 3 port fuel valve as supplied with the rv4 kit and would
>like to use it. If mounted in the floor I would like to set it up so
>the the pointed end of the handle will point toward the tank in use.
>If I do this the center port will have to be pluged. When switching
>tanks I will have to go through the off position (center port) to get
>to the other tank. Is this dangerous, is there any possibility that
>it could get stuck in that position? I know several have suggested
>the andair. Is it that much better or safer than the one supplied by
>Van.
>Earl still trying to make up my mind
Earl,
I used Van's fuel valve in my -8 and in the twelve hours I've been flying
it, it works just fine. It's plumbed so that switching tanks does NOT
require going past the off position. As it is hooked up now, the handle
points to the tank in use. I used some red enamel on the handle and ground
off the pointer on the other end to make sure it is blatantly obvious how it
works. The handle points right, the right tank is in use, and vice versa.
The off position is with the handle pointing aft.
The switchover happens so quickly that going past the off position should
not pose any problems. Turn on the boost pump first, which is just good
practice anyhow. If you can plumb the valve so that the handle has the
shortest travel between tanks, that would be a better situation.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
12 hours of RV grins.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
Right on!!!
Why did the military change to tricycle gear after the T-6/SNJ?
Why are commercial airliners tricycle gear.
Why are currently-built GA aircraft tricycle gear.
J-3 Cub training
Aeronca Champ - Solo
SNJ primary training.
T-28 primary training
SNB instrument training
PBM advanced training
P5M squadron
PA28-235 owner
RHDudley
RV-6A builder, wings
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> << There is no question that it will make you a
> better pilot, and you will pay more for insurance. >>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV6-Seat Rib Placement |
dave
i just mounted my control sticks today, i'll give you an accurate answer when
i get back to my shop in the morning. i was sweatn the 3rd rib from center,
turns out perfect. one suggestion is to find the floor pan, cut the hole as
per the plans (plans 37 ), and lay it on top of the ribs. you then can see
exactly where to put the rib, also where the cut to the 604 bulkhead. thats
what i will do on my next one. by the way, the orndolf tapes and the plans
call to cut the flange and support it with angle iron on the opposite side of
the control stick, i did not have to do this. my control stick has a full
range of movement in the cutout without hitting a rib flange. look on plans
37 at the left bottom, see the position of the ribs in relation with the
control hole. i don't think you will have a problem with the second rib, but
watch that 3rd rib.
i centered all my ribs with the holes on the f 604 wing spar holes. finished
all contols and floor pans, no bad surprizes.
good luck
keep me posted
scott
tampa
rv6a mounting tail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Subject: | Help with Terra Radio |
Listers,
I just mounted a Glideslope and Nav/Comm in my 4. I installed a Terra
920 TXN with Tri-Nav C.
The question is, has anyone installed this radio themselves, if so, can
you
remember if the pin numbers matched the wire color. I have a schematic that
gives the pin numbers and where they go but the wire color to the headphone
jacks doesn't match the wire color that the schematic says should be
attached
to that given pin. The radio came from a plane with an overhead speaker and
I'm thinking that someone has changed the wires at one time or another.
Should
I go by the pin assignments on the schematic or the wire colors. Everything
else
matchs except the headphone jacks.
Jim Nolan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bert F. Murillo" <bertrv(at)intellistar.net> |
Subject: | Re: Oops, I think... |
Ken:
Nevertheless, there are some builders that say the drawings are
perfect.
The rest of us, know better. nothing to say of the Construction
manual, in some cases is absolutely useless..
Maybe some day Vans, would give some time , to improve both..
Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
Subject: | RV-6A nose wheel spacers |
Listers,
I've been flying off the time in my RV-6A and trying to get rid of some of
the glitches. Yesterday, I heard a sound coming from the nose gear
that sounded like I'd messed up a bearing in the nose wheel. Upon
examining the bearings, I discovered that the bearings were OK. What
I did find was that the spacers had spun, instead. I was worried about
this happening when I installed them. My Cheetah spacers are made
so they interlock with the fork; but, the spacers on the RV don't. What
did you folks do to prevent these spacers from spinning? Do I have my
nose wheel bolt too loose or too tight? I'm thinking about making
some kind of change to prevent this spinning. Unfortunately, the
bearing seal is rubber and makes it hard to keep things tight.
Suggestions apprecitated.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (about 8.0 on the tach)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve |
I changed the plumbing on mine to click between tanks, then if you wish to
turn the tanks off, you have to turn the knob all the way around to get it
there. It is kind of an awkward move to do that, so I am sure that I will
never accidentally turn it off.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "EARL FORTNER" <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2000 12:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Selector Valve
>
> I have Vans 3 port fuel valve as supplied with the rv4 kit and would
> like to use it. If mounted in the floor I would like to set it up so
> the the pointed end of the handle will point toward the tank in use.
> If I do this the center port will have to be pluged. When switching
> tanks I will have to go through the off position (center port) to get
> to the other tank. Is this dangerous, is there any possibility that
> it could get stuck in that position? I know several have suggested
> the andair. Is it that much better or safer than the one supplied by
> Van.
> Earl still trying to make up my mind
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve |
Are you useing the 3 port valve supplied by Van?
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> I changed the plumbing on mine to click between tanks, then if you wish to
> turn the tanks off, you have to turn the knob all the way around to get it
> there. It is kind of an awkward move to do that, so I am sure that I will
> never accidentally turn it off.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "EARL FORTNER" <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2000 12:06 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Selector Valve
>
> >
> > I have Vans 3 port fuel valve as supplied with the rv4 kit and would
> > like to use it. If mounted in the floor I would like to set it up so
> > the the pointed end of the handle will point toward the tank in use.
> > If I do this the center port will have to be pluged. When switching
> > tanks I will have to go through the off position (center port) to get
> > to the other tank. Is this dangerous, is there any possibility that
> > it could get stuck in that position? I know several have suggested
> > the andair. Is it that much better or safer than the one supplied by
> > Van.
> > Earl still trying to make up my mind
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
They have some nice pictures of panels and interriors up now.
Earl, rv4 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | rv6 or rv6a?? + powder coating? |
Bob,
I am a low time pvt. plt. who had about 120 hours in 152's and 172's (and 1
hour of aerobatics in a Citabria) when I got checked out in a J-4 a few
months ago. The checkout lasted only 2.5 hours and the airplane seemed
amazingly controllable after all the horror stories I had heard.
We started tail down taxiing, then tail up taxiing, then short runway hops,
then a few patterns, then 10 minutes of air work, and then a few more
patterns. I think the tail up taxiing and short runway hops saved a lot of
time, so did forgetting to do wheel landings :( which I figured out later.
Don't get too scared of tail draggers until you try them for yourself. They
are a lot of fun.
I have about 28 hours in the J-4 and haven't scared myself yet, but it is
slower and probably much more docile than most tail draggers. I got caught
(own judgment lapse) in a gusty wind with it one day and was wishing for a
152 during a go-around (was all over the place during the approach so I went
around early), but the second landing attempt worked out great. I try to
only fly in light wind in anything. In gusty crosswinds (which I don't fly
in much) I feel more comfortable in a tricycle gear aircraft because it is
much more forgiving of small mistakes and I am still inexperienced.
Even though I really enjoy tail draggers, I am a little worried about
building an airplane that I would be more likely to damage during landing,
especially in bad weather because of a small lapse in concentration. I think
I will build the tail dragger because: the it looks cooler (IMHO), it is more
fun (challenging, satisfying) to land and TKO (for me), and there is a very
mild performance increase.
I just got my -8 tail a few days ago and am ordering both (A and B) tool kits
from Avery on Monday.
On another subject, I noticed that the steel tail parts are now powder coated
on the 8 tail kit. I have been told that this makes it possible for the
parts to rust under the powder coat while the outside looks good and
therefore the powder coat is not a good idea. Opinions???
Greg
--------------------------
i need advise re: taildrag or nosewheel. i am a low time pilot with c-150,
172 experience only. i am at the stage of ordering wings (tail done), and
plan to get some tail time during fusel/finishing/... what i need to know
from experienced pilots of both is: tail land and take offs that much more
difficult?? kinda awkward wanting to build a taildragger with no time-at
least up to this point. replys appreciated. bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6A nose wheel spacers |
Ask your local Chapter EAA tech councilor for advise.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Date: Sunday, January 09, 2000 6:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A nose wheel spacers
>
>Listers,
>
>I've been flying off the time in my RV-6A and trying to get rid of some of
>the glitches. Yesterday, I heard a sound coming from the nose gear
>that sounded like I'd messed up a bearing in the nose wheel. Upon
>examining the bearings, I discovered that the bearings were OK. What
>I did find was that the spacers had spun, instead. I was worried about
>this happening when I installed them. My Cheetah spacers are made
>so they interlock with the fork; but, the spacers on the RV don't. What
>did you folks do to prevent these spacers from spinning? Do I have my
>nose wheel bolt too loose or too tight? I'm thinking about making
>some kind of change to prevent this spinning. Unfortunately, the
>bearing seal is rubber and makes it hard to keep things tight.
>Suggestions apprecitated.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (about 8.0 on the tach)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: N441LP Paint Job |
BEAUTIFUL!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
Tail wheel jet engine aircraft are a bad idea.
I understand that jet engines which are pointed down to the runway will melt
and damage runways and ramps. The F-4's engines were pointed down only 2
degress and was very hard on a asphalt and the tar bewteen slabs of
concrete.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2000 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
> Right on!!!
> Why did the military change to tricycle gear after the T-6/SNJ?
> Why are commercial airliners tricycle gear.
> Why are currently-built GA aircraft tricycle gear.
>
> J-3 Cub training
> Aeronca Champ - Solo
> SNJ primary training.
> T-28 primary training
> SNB instrument training
> PBM advanced training
> P5M squadron
> PA28-235 owner
> RHDudley
> RV-6A builder, wings
>
> SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > << There is no question that it will make you a
> > better pilot, and you will pay more for insurance. >>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
In a message dated 1/9/00 6:14:23 PM Pacific Standard Time, n5lp(at)carlsbad.net
writes:
<< A tailwheel airplane ... It is a great comfort to approach at 10
or 15 knots above the usual speed and just wheel it gently on with excellent
control and no worry of hitting a nosewheel. >>
You tailwheel guys have it so easy and can get so complacent. Doing this in
a nosewheel aircraft and surviving enough times can make you too a better
pilot, don't you know.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kevin beaton" <beatonk(at)hotmail.com> |
I would be interested in builders experiences with installing the Andair
gascalator. I opted to go with the gascalator on my RV-6A project. I
impressed with the workmanship of the product, Unfortunately I havent come
up with a good plan for the installation. Those of you who have installed
the gascalator understand that you have to make considerations for mounting
the unit, providing clearance of the lower engine mount, and providing a
method to check fuel during preflight. The fuel filter option is looking
much better now!
Kevin Beaton
San Antonio, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | S-tec Roll Servo in RV8 |
Help! Just received my roll servo with absolutely no installation
instructions or drawings. I know some have been mounted in the wing, but
now they recommend mounting in the fuselage. Has anyone done this? With
the servo are some brackets, a pulley assembly and a short cable, and
assorted other stuff that I have no idea what they are for. Any help would
be appreciated.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 fuselage stuff
Issaquah, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Subject: | Microair 760 (push to talk) |
I have a Microair 760 radio and when I depress the push to talk I get a
loud squeal, however this only happens when the push to talk is in the
airframe. If I stand outside and just hold the button no problems,
transmits -fine. Also this only happens with my (Radio Shack) push button,
if I use a portable push to talk (plugs into a headset-David Clark) no
problems. Tried shielded wire for the push to talk lead, moved ant around
(small improvement), etc. Any idea's on what might cause this?
THX
C.H.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 01/08/00 |
>________________________________________________________________________
________
>From: "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: rv6 or rv6a??
>
>
>> but hey, even an F4
>> phantom had a nose wheel. nough said.
>
>YES, they did....but even the military has enough fashion sense to tuck
that
>thing away AS SOON as the plane leaves the ground. I think the pilots
find
>tricycle gear a little embarrasing. Afterall, the mustangs etc all had
>tailwheels. ;) Sorry, couldn't resist.
>
>Bill
.....If I recall correctly, the mustangs also tuck away their gear as
soon as they leave the ground.....including the TAILWHEEL.....(does that
mean it's embarrassing?)
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
Bob-
FWIW my descision to go -A under the same circumstances as you (low time
in 150/172's) was a simple one. I think it important to use every
advantage to becoming a proficient pilot before I try to expand the
envelope by courting "romantic" in leiu of "practical", plus I'd rather
put what little extra $$$ I have into things that meet this objective
(avionics, for one thing) instead of a tailwheel instructor/FBO's
pocket.
I've always adhered to "simpler is always better" philospophy, and I'd
rather not introduce any more variables into the process than necessary
at this point. Besides, we used to use vacuum tubes for most all things
electronic, but since the implementation of transisitors, most of us
have never looked back. Maybe once I feel some "mastery" over the
training wheel, maybe I'll TRY that itty-bitty roller on the rear!
(RV-12 perhaps?)
Sorry for prolonging this ROPE!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips, -6A wings on hold...(dammit!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
10 Jan 2000 08:53:19.-0500(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Paint Gun Cleaner |
Tip for the archives.
I recently managed to get the air nozzle on my Sharpe HVLP completely clogged
with epoxy resin (I'm talented that way). For a week I've been soaking it in
everything I can think of. No dice. Instead of ordering new parts, the paint
store gave me "Naked Gun" gun cleaner. He said to remove all bushing and o-rings
because they'll be gone, soak it overnight and rinse with the garden hose. Man
does this stuff work! My old gun with the 20 color samples that MEK won't take
off looks brand new and the insides are just steryl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Mustang tail wheels |
> .....If I recall correctly, the mustangs also tuck away their gear as
> soon as they leave the ground.....including the TAILWHEEL.....(does that
> mean it's embarrassing?)
Uh...well......you got me there. Damn. :) All in good fun......
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Microair 760 (push to talk) |
Does your speaker turn off when you plug in your head set?
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: christopher huey <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
Date: Monday, January 10, 2000 2:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Microair 760 (push to talk)
>
>I have a Microair 760 radio and when I depress the push to talk I get a
>loud squeal, however this only happens when the push to talk is in the
>airframe. If I stand outside and just hold the button no problems,
>transmits -fine. Also this only happens with my (Radio Shack) push button,
>if I use a portable push to talk (plugs into a headset-David Clark) no
>problems. Tried shielded wire for the push to talk lead, moved ant around
>(small improvement), etc. Any idea's on what might cause this?
>
>THX
>C.H.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
10 Jan 2000 09:32:25.-0500(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Sherwin Williams #'s |
Last week someone posted an interest in Sherwin Williams phone #. There are
several regional centers available but my experience has been with the Tampa
distribution center (Raytheon) who I highly recomend. Their number is (813)
878-4500, the brochures are very informative and come with color charts. The
customer support is just first rate and their prices are very reasonable.
I asked about the cost to paint a small plane. The following prices are to paint
one color Jet Glo on something like a 172:
1Gal White Jet Glo 71.68
1Gal Catalyst 97.50
1Qt Thinner 23.23
1Gal Primer pt A 48.30
1Gal Primer pt B 43.85
Catalyst 23.23
Total 307.79
I plan to add surfacer primer to this list and will mix clear into the last shot
of the topcoat for about an additional $120.00.
Mike Freeman recommends Acry Glo for do it yourselfers since its an Acrylic
Urethane and is much easier to repair. While Acry Glo is not technically as hard
as Jet Glo, which is a true polyurethane, Acry Glo is formulated for aviation
use and has no problem resisting engine oil and 100LL gas.
Hope you find this informative.
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Subject: | pitot/static line routing in cockpit |
Hi everyone,
I have been contemplating the routing of the pitot lines in the cockpit and
trying to "hide" them so they are out of harm's way. I am planning on using
the Gretz heated pitot/static tube in the left wing. Here are my thoughts:
1. Run aluminum lines per plans from the pitot tube through the wings to 90
degree bulkhead fittings in the fuselage that point up.
2. Run Nyloseal tubes from the 90 degree fittings along the front side of
vertical portion of the spar carry-through.
3. At the top of the vertical runs, put in nylon 90 degree elbows to
transition the lines horizontally underneath the canopy sills, where it will
feed through the instrument panel.
Can anyone see any problem(s) with doing this? My immediate concern is
having too many elbows in the system that could result in pitot system
error.
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
RV-6
Fuse complete/painted, working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
Subject: | Re: pitot/static line routing in cockpit |
Bob
I used plastic tube (.30 cents/foot) and fittings used in industrial pneumatic
systems. The tube pushes into them and is gripped (good for 300 lbs/inch), to
release you push a small locking ring.
The tubes entered the fuselage just behind the front fueltank mount and thus
behind the F-602 (RV6), from there it goes directly to the panel no lines
visisble anywhere.
The pneumatic fitting are also used on the back of the instruments. They com in
various types from in line to "T" connections and will still rotate when screwed
to the instrument (This is great when routing the lines. I also used these
fitting on the low pressure side of the brake master cylinders).
40 hours on the plane so far and working great
Regards Peter (C-GFLG Brampton Canada)
"Japundza, Bob" wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I have been contemplating the routing of the pitot lines in the cockpit and
> trying to "hide" them so they are out of harm's way. I am planning on using
> the Gretz heated pitot/static tube in the left wing. Here are my thoughts:
>
> 1. Run aluminum lines per plans from the pitot tube through the wings to 90
> degree bulkhead fittings in the fuselage that point up.
> 2. Run Nyloseal tubes from the 90 degree fittings along the front side of
> vertical portion of the spar carry-through.
> 3. At the top of the vertical runs, put in nylon 90 degree elbows to
> transition the lines horizontally underneath the canopy sills, where it will
> feed through the instrument panel.
>
> Can anyone see any problem(s) with doing this? My immediate concern is
> having too many elbows in the system that could result in pitot system
> error.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6
> Fuse complete/painted, working on wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> Bob-
>
> FWIW my descision to go -A under the same circumstances as you (low time
> in 150/172's) was a simple one. I think it important to use every
> advantage to becoming a proficient pilot before I try to expand the
> envelope by courting "romantic" in leiu of "practical", plus I'd rather
> put what little extra $$$ I have into things that meet this objective
> (avionics, for one thing) instead of a tailwheel instructor/FBO's
> pocket.
I have recently completed an RV6 ( 40 hours so far). Due to local peer
pressure (they wouldn't talk to me of I put a training wheel on it) I built
the RV6, I have about 500 hours tail wheel so I thought why not.
I would definetely build the RV6A next time for the following reasons.
No visibility during taxi
No visibility during three point landing. (Less than any other taildragger
I have flown)
Resale
Lower insurance
I would think twice before teaching my son to fly in it (Due to the
visibility)
Clarification: The landing behaviour is excellent in the RV6. Takeoff does
cause a strong swing which due to the poor visibilty is challenging, but
other than that is striaght foreward.
I guess it all revolves around comfort. The RV6A is easier to enter and exit
the cockpit (Level attitude), more comfortable/pleasant for both pilot and
passenger during taxi, takeoff and landing. Easier to sell and easier to
train new pilots in. All this and you don't loose performance.
By the way, the usual put down from tail dragger pilots is that it looks
like the Gruman trainer, personally I think it look very nice and due to the
higher landing gear the plane looks much larger than the RV6
Hope this helps Peter (C-GFLG Brampton)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A JIG AVAILABLE IN TAMPA |
Dear listers
i have a well constructed rv 6 jig available in tampa. i have over $100.00 in
materials and will let it go for $75.00 , i also have a big cube van that i
can deliver it for the interested person ( included in price as long as it is
in the tampa area ).
It has built 1 straight rv6-a , i was going to keep it for when i build my
2nd rv but space is limited.
please contact me off list
James in tampa has 1st option, so let me know asap if you still want it James.
scott
tampa
mounting tail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | constructive critiques |
Rick Jory wrote:
>
>
> FWIW, get Avery's squeezer . . . and not the Tatco. I have both . . . and
> hate the Tatco.
>
> Rick Jory
Folks, let me kindly suggest that we carefully choose our wording for
how we rate various tools and vendors in the RV community.
If a prospective or new builder read the above post concerning rivet
squeezers, he/she could very easily get the impression that the Tatco
squeezer is a piece of junk. Hundreds of builders know the Tatco is a
very capable tool and it has an excellent reputation in the A&P
community.
I have no problem with builders who prefer one particular brand over
another, but we have to remember that new builders are often strongly
impressed by what they read from the "experts" (anyone who has built a
tail kit). Let's try to offer useful information that will be of value
not only for current builders but for the hundreds that will access the
archives in the future.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
EAA tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: S-tec Roll Servo in RV8 |
I mounted mine under floor just behind rt footwell for back seater. Hooked
it to the control horn with bracket riveted to control horn and rod going
from servo to bracket. S-tec will eschange cable and pulley for device to
hook pushrod to. Send the entire servo back. They did mine for free.
Contact me off line at N188sm(at)cs.com or 573-632-9150 if you have any more
questions.
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Which RV Tool Set, Avery or Cleaveland? |
This is Blonde or Brunette question...it a preference thing. Either Avery or
Cleavland will be your top choice...one isn't better than the other (like
Blondes or Brunettes). A & C are among the two top suppliers to us metal plane
builders...
cherrick(at)hsonline.net on 01/07/2000 10:24:47 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Which RV Tool Set, Avery or Cleaveland?
I am just getting started on a RV-6AQ and need to purchase the sheet metal
tools that I will need (i.e. I currently do not have any sheet metal tools).
I have narrowed my decision as to who to buy from to Avery and Cleaveland.
But, my question is which tool set would be better to purchase Avery's
RV-A/B-KIT or Cleaveland's Complete Airframe Tool Package? On either of
these sets are there additions, deletions, upgrades that I should make? Are
there tools that are better from supplier than from the other and thus
should I be buying individual tools from both?
Your comments on these questions would be greatly appreciated.
Brett Herrick
Columbus, IN
Do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Cleaner |
Eric--
Hoppes No. 9 gun cleaning solvent also works and does a bang-up job on
fuel injector nozzles, also. Dry them out with a compressed air nozzle, however.
Boyd.
"Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com (Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP
>
>
> Tip for the archives.
>
> I recently managed to get the air nozzle on my Sharpe HVLP completely clogged
> with epoxy resin (I'm talented that way). For a week I've been soaking it in
> everything I can think of. No dice. Instead of ordering new parts, the paint
> store gave me "Naked Gun" gun cleaner. He said to remove all bushing and o-rings
> because they'll be gone, soak it overnight and rinse with the garden hose. Man
> does this stuff work! My old gun with the 20 color samples that MEK won't take
> off looks brand new and the insides are just steryl.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve |
>
> I have Vans 3 port fuel valve as supplied with the rv4 kit and would
> like to use it. If mounted in the floor I would like to set it up so
> the the pointed end of the handle will point toward the tank in use.
> If I do this the center port will have to be pluged. When switching
> tanks I will have to go through the off position (center port) to get
> to the other tank. Is this dangerous, is there any possibility that
> it could get stuck in that position? I know several have suggested
> the andair. Is it that much better or safer than the one supplied by
> Van.
> Earl still trying to make up my mind
Earl I have the setup you describe , only taxiing at this point but
work fine switching tanks, I don't need to second guess Vans &
spend more money if it's not necessary.
Wayne RV4 wing filletsdon't fit well.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: constructive critiques |
Big Sam wrote:
> > Folks, let me kindly suggest that we carefully choose our wording for
> > how we rate various tools and vendors in the RV community.
I agree, sorta.
Far too many of you kind folks are TOO shy about criticizing
vendors. Criticism is how vendors find out what the market wants and
needs. A vendor who turns a deaf ear to criticism will go the way of
Digital Equipment (a fallen giant). My pappy said, "If you can't say
something nice, don't say anything!" but mama said, "Give'em hell!" I try
to be in between.
We need to critique vendors as if we were engineers, however. The main
thing I learned in engineering school was to QUANTIFY everything. WHY is
the tool bad? HOW flimsy is it? etc.
Movie critics don't say "Great film" without saying why, for example.
hal
(builder of filtered air boxes!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: constructive critiques |
Sam....... I concur. I love my Tatco. It may take a little more muscle but I
can use the excercise. It is one of the most well built, precision tools I
own (along with my Sioux drill).
How about a pilot report on your new -6. I have been a faithful follower
(like others) of your building process on the web page and find the info very
valuable. It would keep us motivated. Maybe some changes you would make, etc.
Gary Palinkas
Parma, Ohio
RV-6 QB Panel stuff
In a message dated 1/10/00 11:07:19 AM, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
<< > FWIW, get Avery's squeezer . . . and not the Tatco. I have both . . .
and
> hate the Tatco.
>
> Rick Jory
Folks, let me kindly suggest that we carefully choose our wording for
how we rate various tools and vendors in the RV community.
If a prospective or new builder read the above post concerning rivet
squeezers, he/she could very easily get the impression that the Tatco
squeezer is a piece of junk. Hundreds of builders know the Tatco is a
very capable tool and it has an excellent reputation in the A&P
community.
I have no problem with builders who prefer one particular brand over
another, but we have to remember that new builders are often strongly
impressed by what they read from the "experts" (anyone who has built a
tail kit). Let's try to offer useful information that will be of value
not only for current builders but for the hundreds that will access the
archives in the future.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
EAA tech counselor >>
________________________________________________________________________________
I've heard many people on the list mention putting the alodine in a tub of
some sort and immersing the parts for a minute or so during prep. My
question is, can this alodine then be put back in the can and reused or do
you discard the contents of the tub after each alodine session? Also, I've
heard alodine has a shelf life. Does it and if so how long is it?
Craig Paulson
RV6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
My Panel Planner software (v2.7) has 5 different rv6a templates in it. They
are 6a, 6alt, 6alt2, 6alt3, 6aext. Are these different sized panels
something that other builders have done on their own? Anyone know what the
basis of the different heights and center console shapes of these panels is?
I'm assuming that Vans supplies one basic panel and builder modify as they
want. I'm also assuming that all the panels are the same absolute height
(i.e. AGL) and that the difference is an extension to the bottom of the
panel. Thanks.
Craig Paulson
RV6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Panel Planner |
The panel is cut to the installation. They are not necessarily the same
height. With the tip up canopy, there are many variables in the frame that
require the panel to be fitted. You can not go by the dimensions in Panel
Planner. It was never designed to be a cutting tool, just a lay out tool.
Which is why Steve Davis cuts a mock up of your panel out of acrylic and
sends it to you to fit. You mark it where it should be trimmed, and he
digitizes that and makes it fit for you.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 11:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Panel Planner
<cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
>
> My Panel Planner software (v2.7) has 5 different rv6a templates in it.
They
> are 6a, 6alt, 6alt2, 6alt3, 6aext. Are these different sized panels
> something that other builders have done on their own? Anyone know what the
> basis of the different heights and center console shapes of these panels
is?
> I'm assuming that Vans supplies one basic panel and builder modify as they
> want. I'm also assuming that all the panels are the same absolute height
> (i.e. AGL) and that the difference is an extension to the bottom of the
> panel. Thanks.
>
> Craig Paulson
> RV6A wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
10 Jan 2000 14:09:05.-0500(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A JIG AVAILABLE IN TAMPA |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com on 01/10/2000 10:26:24 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6/6A JIG AVAILABLE IN TAMPA
Hi, my name is Scott, and I'm a building addict.
Hey, can you get your hand in the fuse access hole under the elevator? We must
have a beer at SNF.
Thanks
Eric
>>>>> i was going to keep it for when i build my
2nd rv<<<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
Subject: | Instrument Panel Question |
I am sitting here looking at a cardboard mockup of my proposed
instrument panel (-6A) and wondering about the practicality of the
removable instrument panel sections that I have planned.
In theory it sounds good, but is there anyone out there with a flying
aircraft that has done behind the panel maintenance or modifications
that could confirm or refute the theory.
I have planned a full IFR panel and Vans engine instruments.
The eight flight instruments were to be mounted on a 7 X 14 inch
removable section, the Vans engine instruments on a smaller removable
section.
My question is this: - With the plumbing to the flight instruments is it
practical to leave long enough loops (or slack in the lines) so that the
panel section can be pulled far enough forward to gain access for real
behind the panel maintenance. Or is this idea just be a lot of work for
no great benefit.
Your Comments appreciated.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6-A, Canoopy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Re:need address for co.rebuilding engines |
>
>Can any one give me name, address and phone number of co. in Canada
>rebuilding engines. Or other ideas about finding an 0-320?
Here ya go...
For Sale
Lycoming 0320-A1A
0 hr SMOH
History:
S/N 3475-27
Was in a Piper Apache N1386P
Complete logs
In service 3-1-56
Majored 6-22-61 1452 hrs TT after apparent gear up landing.
Top overhaul 5-16-75 at 2996 TT
This overhaul at 3566 hrs TT
Conical mount
Cases done at Divco
Yellow tagged rods, crank, and cylinders from Rick Romans
New cam and carb.
New Slick mags and harnesses
New Prop Governor
Fuel Pump
Oil cooler
Ring gear
Most all hardware re-plated
All applicable AD's complied with (inc oil pump)
Engine is just back from inspection. Not assembled.
Overhaul labor is paid for at Aeroparts of Arizona but not started yet.
If I kept the engine I didn't want it assembled until I was ready
for it. Have not specified HP yet so you could have 150 hp or 160 hp.
Pistons are already paid for. Overhaul will be by Bill Castles. A very
respected rebuilder at Phoenix, DVT.
To be complete you will need a starter, alternator and optional vacuum
pump.
REDUCED Price:
Assembled and ready to go - $11,000
Not assembled - $10,000
Warranty - If installed in an airplane at DVT, overhauler will fix anything
that is not right. He guaranties that it will be right. No real time frame.
I've
seen several planes with his engines in them with no problems. I'm going
to use him on my other engine.
Prices are FOB Phoenix, AZ
For Sale
Lycoming 0320-A2A
History:
S/N L-38687-27A
Was in a Piper TriPacer
Conical mount
450hrs SFOH*
No Logs
No Mags
Ring gear
Carb
Alternator
Starter
Oil cooler
* With no logs it's hard to confirm so I took the engine to Lycon and
had them disassemble and evaluate. They confirmed very low time
(with no prompting they estimated 400hrs) never been turned crank.
It is a wide deck. Cylinders showed some sign of wear but not bad.
They said I should have just run it the way it was. It is machined for
a fuel pump. Engine is just back from inspection. Not assembled.
Price: $5500
Price is FOB Phoenix, AZ
If I kept it I would buy 160 hp pistons, bearings, gasket set, fuel pump
and mags. I have a rebuilder that will put it back together for $900 + any
incidentals. It would be a cheep running low time engine.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Question |
George, is your airplane a Tip Up or a Slider?
Cash
-6 Instrument panel
In a message dated 1/10/00 7:41:41 PM GMT Standard Time,
gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca writes:
<<
I am sitting here looking at a cardboard mockup of my proposed
instrument panel (-6A) and wondering about the practicality of the
removable instrument panel sections that I have planned.
In theory it sounds good, but is there anyone out there with a flying
aircraft that has done behind the panel maintenance or modifications
that could confirm or refute the theory.
I have planned a full IFR panel and Vans engine instruments.
The eight flight instruments were to be mounted on a 7 X 14 inch
removable section, the Vans engine instruments on a smaller removable
section.
My question is this: - With the plumbing to the flight instruments is it
practical to leave long enough loops (or slack in the lines) so that the
panel section can be pulled far enough forward to gain access for real
behind the panel maintenance. Or is this idea just be a lot of work for
no great benefit.
Your Comments appreciated.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6-A, Canoopy >>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
10 Jan 2000 15:06:46.-0500(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A JIG AVAILABLE IN TAMPA |
Sorry Gang, that was intended for Scott directly. Have no idea how it got back
to the list. I hate Lotus Notes.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Posting for a friend..
For Sale
Lycoming 0320-A1A
0 hr SMOH
History:
S/N 3475-27
Was in a Piper Apache N1386P
Complete logs
In service 3-1-56
Majored 6-22-61 1452 hrs TT after apparent gear up landing.
Top overhaul 5-16-75 at 2996 TT
This overhaul at 3566 hrs TT
Conical mount
Cases done at Divco
Yellow tagged rods, crank, and cylinders from Rick Romans
New cam and carb.
New Slick mags and harnesses
New Prop Governor
Fuel Pump
Oil cooler
Ring gear
Most all hardware re-plated
All applicable AD's complied with (inc oil pump)
Engine is just back from inspection. Not assembled.
Overhaul labor is paid for at Aeroparts of Arizona but not started yet.
If I kept the engine I didn't want it assembled until I was ready
for it. Have not specified HP yet so you could have 150 hp or 160 hp.
Pistons are already paid for. Overhaul will be by Bill Castles. A very
respected rebuilder at Phoenix, DVT.
To be complete you will need a starter, alternator and optional vacuum
pump.
REDUCED Price:
Assembled and ready to go - $11,000
Not assembled - $10,000
Warranty - If installed in an airplane at DVT, overhauler will fix anything
that is not right. He guaranties that it will be right. No real time frame.
I've
seen several planes with his engines in them with no problems. I'm going
to use him on my other engine.
Prices are FOB Phoenix, AZ
For Sale
Lycoming 0320-A2A
History:
S/N L-38687-27A
Was in a Piper TriPacer
Conical mount
450hrs SFOH*
No Logs
No Mags
Ring gear
Carb
Alternator
Starter
Oil cooler
* With no logs it's hard to confirm so I took the engine to Lycon and
had them disassemble and evaluate. They confirmed very low time
(with no prompting they estimated 400hrs) never been turned crank.
It is a wide deck. Cylinders showed some sign of wear but not bad.
They said I should have just run it the way it was. It is machined for
a fuel pump. Engine is just back from inspection. Not assembled.
Price: $5500
Price is FOB Phoenix, AZ
If I kept it I would buy 160 hp pistons, bearings, gasket set, fuel pump
and mags. I have a rebuilder that will put it back together for $900 + any
incidentals. It would be a cheep running low time engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A JIG AVAILABLE IN TAMPA |
Scott,
Let me know if james doesn't take it.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6/6A JIG AVAILABLE IN TAMPA
>
> Dear listers
> i have a well constructed rv 6 jig available in tampa. i have over $100.00
in
> materials and will let it go for $75.00 , i also have a big cube van that
i
> can deliver it for the interested person ( included in price as long as it
is
> in the tampa area ).
> It has built 1 straight rv6-a , i was going to keep it for when i build my
> 2nd rv but space is limited.
> please contact me off list
> James in tampa has 1st option, so let me know asap if you still want it
James.
> scott
> tampa
> mounting tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Subject: | Instrument Panel Question |
George,
I've been flying a -6A for over six years now, without the benefit of a
removable panel. I do have the AH, DG, Alt, and rate of climb instruments in
a removable, shock mounted cluster, and it sure make getting in behind the
centrally located engine instruments a bit easier. What I have found is that
access panels in front of the windshield (Mooney Style...) make a major
difference in behind the panel access, especially for the radio stack. In my
Electrical I give at the Oswego NY Builders Forum, I stress either having a
totally removable panel, or the access panels.
N925RV is a full IFR RV-6A with 1470+ hours......
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: George McNutt [SMTP:gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca]
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 2:22 PM
> To: Rv-List
> Subject: RV-List: Instrument Panel Question
>
>
> I am sitting here looking at a cardboard mockup of my proposed
> instrument panel (-6A) and wondering about the practicality of the
> removable instrument panel sections that I have planned.
>
> In theory it sounds good, but is there anyone out there with a flying
> aircraft that has done behind the panel maintenance or modifications
> that could confirm or refute the theory.
>
> I have planned a full IFR panel and Vans engine instruments.
>
> The eight flight instruments were to be mounted on a 7 X 14 inch
> removable section, the Vans engine instruments on a smaller removable
> section.
>
> My question is this: - With the plumbing to the flight instruments is it
> practical to leave long enough loops (or slack in the lines) so that the
> panel section can be pulled far enough forward to gain access for real
> behind the panel maintenance. Or is this idea just be a lot of work for
> no great benefit.
>
> Your Comments appreciated.
>
> George McNutt, Langley B.C.
> 6-A, Canoopy
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Question |
George--
I've seen panels done in many ways, but grouping the flight instruments
and engine instruments andtoggle switches/circuit breakers on removeable
subpanels is very common and convenient. The excess wiring is looped
behind the panel and held in place with tie-wraps which are then clipped
before the subpanel is removed. I also saw one panel where the bottom
was fitted with a piano hinge, like the seat back bottoms, so the
subpanels could just be tilted forward or removed by pulling the hinge
pin out. One builder put in the 3/4" flange section flush riveted to
the glareshield and side panels, trimmed the excess metal below it and
then screwed the real instrument panel to that brace/bracket/flange with
screws so either the whole panel or a subpanel could be removed without
removing the structural integrity of the F-6107/6108 braces going back
to the firewall from the glareshield support. I've also seen one plane
that had the F-6105 bulkhead cut into a subpanel behind the radio stack
so he could really get to those connectors and things like his vacuum
system filter. The ergonomics of that panel can either make you love or
hate you plane when it's done and it pays to see as many installed
panels as you can, even if have to travel to other airports/garages.
Boyd.
George McNutt wrote:
>
>
> I am sitting here looking at a cardboard mockup of my proposed
> instrument panel (-6A) and wondering about the practicality of the
> removable instrument panel sections that I have planned.
>
> In theory it sounds good, but is there anyone out there with a flying
> aircraft that has done behind the panel maintenance or modifications
> that could confirm or refute the theory.
>
> I have planned a full IFR panel and Vans engine instruments.
>
> The eight flight instruments were to be mounted on a 7 X 14 inch
> removable section, the Vans engine instruments on a smaller removable
> section.
>
> My question is this: - With the plumbing to the flight instruments is it
> practical to leave long enough loops (or slack in the lines) so that the
> panel section can be pulled far enough forward to gain access for real
> behind the panel maintenance. Or is this idea just be a lot of work for
> no great benefit.
>
> Your Comments appreciated.
>
> George McNutt, Langley B.C.
> 6-A, Canoopy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The different templates represent builder variations. I started with the
template that had the center console (even though I don't have one) but no
lower extension. It was reasonably close to my panel. After many, many
versions I realized that clearances were going to be an issue so I opened
the template (.dxf?) in Autocad and modified it to my panel's dimensions and
eliminated the console. I also added lines to show the ribs behind the
panel.
Then I started a new panel with this revised template. But before adding any
instruments, I adjusted the width and height based on the cursor coordinate
display. Using the coordinates to measure is important since Panel Planner
uses the full image in the template, including any white space, for it's
width and height. After adding the instruments I printed the panel in the
full size tiles and they came out perfect. I pasted the printouts on a light
plywood panel cutout and sat in the plane and made airplane noises and
flipped paper switches.
You don't have to revise the template to adjust the size, just use the
coordinate display and keep iterating on the W/H until it comes out right.
Just don't add the instruments until you're finished resizing - I've heard
it will scale the instruments along with the panel.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved)
<cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
>>My Panel Planner software (v2.7) has 5 different rv6a templates in it.
They
>>are 6a, 6alt, 6alt2, 6alt3, 6aext. Are these different sized panels
>>something that other builders have done on their own? Anyone know what the
>>basis of the different heights and center console shapes of these panels
is?
>>I'm assuming that Vans supplies one basic panel and builder modify as they
>>want. I'm also assuming that all the panels are the same absolute height
>>(i.e. AGL) and that the difference is an extension to the bottom of the
>>panel. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Andair Gascolator mount |
Mounted mine via cutting a bolt and welding the remaining stud to a rectangle
mild steel strip, painted then. The bolt was long enough for 2/3 full thread
engagement and a lock nut on same bolt to keep gascolator indexed. Then with
a doubler plate, flush riveted to hold in place, holding 2 AN3 platenuts...
on the other side of the firewall, I mounted gascolator with 2 AN3 bolts to
those plate nuts.
Darn near every thing on my firewall was plate nut mounted, so I can remove
it without a wrench on the inside..or a helper...
I do not have a outside accessible drain valve, as I believe there are lots
of folks with conventional gascolator out there doing the same...and looks
like the Andair has 4 times the filter surface area and water is evident in
tank sumping...then I'll drop the cowl quickly. I will pull gascolator bowl
each time the cowl lower is removed though.
David McManmon
Cicero, NY
over 17 hours now I think........1st flight 11/7/99
N58DM..... seen at EAA 486 Oswego NY and their website
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | weight and balance |
Did you get the scales today?
I went to Fleschli and got my year' ssupply of oil, today. and did some
grocery shopping ugh. Prob go out tomorrow.
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
Subject: | RV6/6A Fuselage Steel Jig for rent, NY/NJ area |
2nd post..even if you aren't ready quite for it, it breaks down reasonable,
stores outside...you might just have it for a year if so read on....
Listers, our heavy duty home made RV 6/6A Fuselage is for rent again.
Currently it is in NJ. It belongs in Syracuse NY. We have been getting
$100/6 months-ish (we're flexible) with a security deposit, and of course the
promise of delivery back to SYR.
It has built 4 planes now. Once it is squared and leveled, it will stay that
way and you can hammer and climb all over it. To haul it, collasped into 2
sections....you better have a full sized pickup truck or a HD snowmobile/car
trailer. Although it has gone shorter distances in a Ford Ranger.
If the current NJ location is more convenient arrangements will be made for
that closer transfer.
For more inquiries/information Please write me ASAP at:
McManD(at)aol.com
David E. McManmon
RV6 N58DM, as seen at Oswego NY RV forum
1st flight 11/7/99
17+ TT now
John Balbierer
RV6 N30JB, as seen at Oswego NY RV forum
1st flight 11/22/98
See both at eaa 486 web pages.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Changing N-Number Registration |
I have already registered (not reserved) my N-Number. I found an N-number
that I like. Anyone know if a number can ever be changed? I even have the
aircraft registration card that you carry in the airplane.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | 6A-QB Electric Trim |
List: I am thinking about puting electric elevator trim in my 6A-QB. Is it
still an option without a lot of work ? Van's kit or Menzimer ? Working
on WD-657 fuselage steps. Thanks Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Paint Gun Cleaner |
who makes it ??
Gert
"Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com (Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP
08:10.Jan.2000.08:10.Jan.2000.08:53:19.-0500(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> Tip for the archives.
>
> I recently managed to get the air nozzle on my Sharpe HVLP completely clogged
> with epoxy resin (I'm talented that way). For a week I've been soaking it in
> everything I can think of. No dice. Instead of ordering new parts, the paint
> store gave me "Naked Gun" gun cleaner. He said to remove all bushing and o-rings
> because they'll be gone, soak it overnight and rinse with the garden hose. Man
> does this stuff work! My old gun with the 20 color samples that MEK won't take
> off looks brand new and the insides are just steryl.
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6A-QB Electric Trim |
It's a piece of cake...took me all of 2 hours to assemble the kit from
Van's...If you have built your HS already, it may be tricky, because I think
the cover plate is cut for the electric trim differently. That portion of
mine was done at the factory.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 6:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6A-QB Electric Trim
>
> List: I am thinking about puting electric elevator trim in my 6A-QB. Is
it
> still an option without a lot of work ? Van's kit or Menzimer ? Working
> on WD-657 fuselage steps. Thanks Tom in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Changing N-Number Registration |
Paul,
'N' numbers may be changed with minimum difficulty. You do it by letter and
with the help of your local FSDO.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A Almost done with wiring (THANK YOU!!!!)
"Das Fed"
>From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Changing N-Number Registration
>Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:50:19 -0700
>
>
>I have already registered (not reserved) my N-Number. I found an N-number
>that I like. Anyone know if a number can ever be changed? I even have the
>aircraft registration card that you carry in the airplane.
>
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: constructive critiques |
GLPalinkas(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Sam....... I concur. I love my Tatco. It may take a little more muscle but I
> can use the excercise. It is one of the most well built, precision tools I
> own (along with my Sioux drill).
>
> How about a pilot report on your new -6. I have been a faithful follower
> (like others) of your building process on the web page and find the info very
> valuable. It would keep us motivated. Maybe some changes you would make, etc.
>
> Gary Palinkas
> Parma, Ohio
> RV-6 QB Panel stuff
Gary, I haven't posted much about the flight characteristics of 399SB
for two reasons:
1) This has been a very busy time of year for me.
2) My RV-6 flies 'bout like everybody else's RV-6!
There has been so much written about RV flight characteristics that I
just don't see where I could add anything new. Build the plane according
to the (excellent :-) ) plans and it will fly just like Van hisself said
it would!
The only thing I wish I had done differently.............build the plane
several years ago!
Thanks for the visits and kind words,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 73.5 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Changing N-Number Registration |
Yes you can renumber an airplane. I did it when some one wanted the
original n-number for a Fairchild 22.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Monday, January 10, 2000 7:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Changing N-Number Registration
>
>I have already registered (not reserved) my N-Number. I found an N-number
>that I like. Anyone know if a number can ever be changed? I even have the
>aircraft registration card that you carry in the airplane.
>
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: constructive critiques |
In a message dated 01/10/2000 9:02:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rickjory(at)email.msn.com writes:
> The Avery
> has interchangeable heads, meaning I can borrow a fellow- builder's 4" no
> hole yoke <<.
The Tatco heads are interchangeable, too. They're not easy (3 tight roll
pins to drift out each time) but they are, nonetheless, interchangeable.
> by swapping heads and leaving my standard head with him--or
> borrowing this head without having to take the entire squeezer from him <<
There were many times in the 4 years I spent on my RV project that I wished I
could borrow another builder's head, specifically Art Chard's or Dick
VanGrunsven's.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
> With the wings vertical, how do they fly?
John,
The wings are not vertical. If I did my math right (never do math in public
:-) ), the required bank angle for a level 9 G turn is 83.62 degrees.
While the G meter is reading 9, 1 G is still keeping the plane in level
flight and 8.94 G's turn the plane.
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Subject: | Re: 6A-QB Electric Trim |
Note: The following ONLY applies if you have a VERY early QB (I think).
Be sure and check the plans on this closely before making any moves (like
cutting holes).
My QB (an early model) had a "slightly" different arrangement somewhere in
the area where the trim actuator goes. The electric trim servo was NOT going
to work in this location without serious modification.
Bill Benedict at Van's ended up making things right (he was able to locate
an "up to date" elevator).
I suspect that this little matter was unique to my kit (just an oversight)
but just in case ...
On the other hand there is the option of the actuator being mounted on the
fuselage proper with a short "manual style" cable running to the "manual
trim" attach point. The kit for this is supplied Gretz I believe. My friend
who is building a 6 used this approach and it looks really slick.
James
RV6A-QB
(it almost looked like a plane with the almost canopy on it for a while)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A-QB Electric Trim
>
> It's a piece of cake...took me all of 2 hours to assemble the kit from
> Van's...If you have built your HS already, it may be tricky, because I
think
> the cover plate is cut for the electric trim differently. That portion of
> mine was done at the factory.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 6:14 PM
> Subject: RV-List: 6A-QB Electric Trim
>
>
> >
> > List: I am thinking about puting electric elevator trim in my 6A-QB. Is
> it
> > still an option without a lot of work ? Van's kit or Menzimer ?
Working
> > on WD-657 fuselage steps. Thanks Tom in Ohio
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
Subject: | Re: Changing N-Number Registration |
snip
>I have already registered (not reserved) my N-Number. I found an N-number
>that I like. Anyone know if a number can ever be changed? I even have the
>aircraft registration card that you carry in the airplane.
>
snip
I recently did just that. I sent in a request for new n-number with a
preference list and asked them to change my current number to one on my
list - got my first choice. If you want you can still rerseve your old
number for your next RV :). A confirm letter arrived followed, in about a
week, by the registration card.
Stan Blanton
RV6
Progressing sloooowly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
Subject: | Re: constructive critiques |
-----Original Message-----
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, January 10, 2000 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: constructive critiques
>
>The Tatco heads are interchangeable, too. They're not easy (3 tight roll
>pins to drift out each time) but they are, nonetheless, interchangeable.
Drift out the roll pins, replace with 3 bolts with non locking nuts.
You may have to reduce the OD of the bolts to fit in the roll pin holes.
I used 3 UNC SHCS, reduced the OD's on a belt sander. No more roll pins,
works fine.
Derek Reed
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Subject: | Re: constructive critiques |
"We need to critique vendors as if we were engineers, however. The main
thing I learned in engineering school was to QUANTIFY everything. WHY is
the tool bad? HOW flimsy is it? etc"
Well said... as an example, someone who does not own a tatco squezzer
may not know that is has features which the avery does not.
Just to qualify my statement i own both.
Although the avery squeezer is a great tool with adjustable ram, and
interchangeable heads - the tatco has a lock that keeps the tool closed and
a brasslike bushing that after a few uses wears in nicely to give a smooth
operation and finger adjustable ram heigth, which results in faster die
changes.
i use a no hole 4" head on the avery and a 3" standard on the tatco. i'd
also recomend a pneumatic squeezer with a longeron yoke. with this setup i
never had to switch to other heads i had purchased.
i was warned about the deeper yokes bending (flexing) when used on
larger rivets and have found it to be a non-event on the -4's . anything
larger is best left to air power...
if anyone cares....cost .02
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: pitot/static line routing in cockpit |
In a message dated 1/10/00 7:23:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, dreed(at)cdsnet.net
writes:
<< >I used plastic tube (.30 cents/foot) and fittings used in industrial
pneumatic
>systems. The tube pushes into them and is gripped (good for 300 lbs/inch),
to
>release you push a small locking ring.
Peter
Who is the manufacturer of the fittings? >>
I used them also. They are of molded acetal (delrin) and brass construction
and work great. Just make sure you use the hose that they sell for them.
SMC makes them (a Japanese company with an outlet in San Jose, CA).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | NSCARRICK(at)aol.com |
Subject: | TAKE MY NAME OFF THIS FUCKING LIST NOW |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | NSCARRICK(at)aol.com |
Subject: | TAKE MY NAME OFF YOUR FUCKING MAILING LIST NOW |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
Subject: | Re: pitot/static line routing in cockpit |
>
> Can anyone see any problem(s) with doing this? My immediate concern is
> having too many elbows in the system that could result in pitot system
> error.
Bob, it really doesn't matter how many elbows you have in your
line. An elbow will only drop pressure if air is flowing through it. No
air flows through either the pitot line or the static line, so the probe
pressures will be transmitted to the instrument.
However all bets are off if you have have leaks in the system, as
they will cause airflow. One elbow gives you two opportunities to
introduce a leak.
Peter Bennett
RV6 Sydney
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Can you READ english |
From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
You Fucking Idiot.
----------
>From: NSCARRICK(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: TAKE MY NAME OFF YOUR FUCKING MAILING LIST NOW
>Date: Tue, Jan 11, 2000, 1:08 AM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Question |
> I am sitting here looking at a cardboard mockup of my proposed
> instrument panel (-6A) and wondering about the practicality of the
> removable instrument panel sections that I have planned.
> My question is this: - With the plumbing to the flight instruments is it
> practical to leave long enough loops (or slack in the lines) so that the
> panel section can be pulled far enough forward to gain access for real
> behind the panel maintenance. Or is this idea just be a lot of work for no
> great benefit.
George,
IMO it's worth the effort. I did my panel in two removable sections,
and have already found it useful to be able to pull a section to do
some work.
I used to own a Grumman Lynx. I spent countless hours laying on the
floor trying to work on the back of the instrument panel (wiring,
plumbing, etc). Removable panels are better.
It is tough to route the vacuume lines so they don't kink, but it can be
done. Just trial and error.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
Subject: | pitot/static line routing in cockpit |
I have a heated pitot-static on my airplane and it is hard to answer your
question from the information provided. If you are running the aluminum
tube from the pitot to the cockpit via conduit and you also plan to have
wires in that conduit, well that may be a chaffing problem. If you plan to
run the lines along the front of the tank to the cockpit then you are
probably okay using the aluminum tube. In my installation I have about a
14" service loop of aluminum tube from the pitot to the inside of the wing.
My pitot is located in the farest wing bay. From there I go into a nylok
fitting and then to nyloseal tubing through a wing conduit to the cockpit.
Inside the cockpit I have a nylok union and then run to my airspeed
indicator (for pitot) or alternate air control for my static. Hope this
helps. If you plan on having an IFR certified bird you may want to consider
using aircraft grade fittings but I don't think there is any requirement to.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Starter contactor |
This may be a dumb question, but when it comes to wiring, I'm a dumb guy. I
bought a starter contactor from Van's. It has two large threaded studs
sticking out like big ears and two small (3/16 say) studs sticking out the
front. One of these small studs is labeled "S" and the other is labeled
"I." I am using a toggle switch (the kind that returns to the center, off,
position when released, forgive me for not knowing the correct name for it)
as a starter switch. I would like to know how to connect the switch to the
starter contactor.
Do I bring power to the "S" stud to activate the starter contactor? If so,
does the "I" stud need to be connected to anything?
Is the contactor grounded somehow, or does the "I" stud carry the power in
and the "S" stud actually run to ground through the switch? If so, this
seems like a bad idea to have an always-hot wire connected to that "I" stud,
but what do I know?
I would assume that I bring the hot wire to the switch and then route the
power through the switch to the "S" stud when I want to activate the
starter. If so, where is the ground? Is the "I" stud the ground? If so,
why is it called "I" and not "G?"
Questions abound. I checked the archives and found a lot of information
about things related to the starter contactor, but this did not seem to be a
topic that has come up before.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A panel and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve |
WAYNE BONESTEEL wrote:
>
> >
> > I have Vans 3 port fuel valve as supplied with the rv4 kit and would
> > like to use it. If mounted in the floor I would like to set it up so
> > the the pointed end of the handle will point toward the tank in use.
> > If I do this the center port will have to be pluged. When switching
> > tanks I will have to go through the off position (center port) to get
> > to the other tank. Is this dangerous, is there any possibility that
> > it could get stuck in that position?
I have been flying my -4 for 56 hours this way. I have never had the engine
to even miss while changing tanks.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce B. Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> |
I am not getting any response from Bob Nuckolls. Has anyone on the rv-list
had any contact with him lately?
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
Subject: | Changing N-Number Registration |
Changing your N-Number is as easy as writing a check....
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Starter contactor |
Subject: RV-List: Starter contactor
>
>This may be a dumb question, but when it comes to wiring, I'm a dumb guy.
I>bought a starter contactor from Van's. It has two large threaded
studs>sticking out like big ears and two small (3/16 say) studs sticking out
the>front. One of these small studs is labeled "S" and the other is
labeled>"I." I am using a toggle switch (the kind that returns to the
center, off,>position when released, forgive me for not knowing the correct
name for it)>as a starter switch. I would like to know how to connect the
switch to the>starter contactor.
>
>Do I bring power to the "S" stud to activate the starter contactor? If
so,>does the "I" stud need to be connected to anything?
Bring power from main bus bar to center post on switch. Take starter
contact wire from momentary on post on switch and go to "S" terminal on
solinoid. Leave "I" terminal open. Put a boot over the stud to protect it
from foreign objects shorting on it. The "I" stud is used in some
applications where a full voltage feed is needed for ignition during
cranking. You are using magnetos and don't need this power source. The
contactor /solinoid is grounded through the mounting bracket to the
fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: TAKE MY NAME OFF THIS FUCKING LIST NOW |
Done, and try a little class in your future. Nobody came looking for you to
put you on this mailing list.....someone who knows you obviously did it.
----- Original Message -----
From: <NSCARRICK(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 2:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: TAKE MY NAME OFF THIS FUCKING LIST NOW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
>
>I can beat that. I have a friend who took off on a grass field, flew
>90 miles home and landed on the grass WHITHOUT a tail wheel.
>Yes, the RV was a taildragger.
>Tom
>Bill Shook wrote:
>
>>
>> > The difficulty of landing a tailwheel airplane is overexaggerated
>> especially
>> > if it's an RV. I happen to know you can successfully land an RV-4 without
>> > an operable right rudder pedal. Don't bother asking why I know this!
>> > Steve
>>
>
>
Steve, Did you forget to install the cotter pins on the rudder where the
cables conect as I did? ( mine was left, after the bolt fell out )
If I could fly as well as a lot of RV-6a pilots I sure don't worry about
the tail wheel thing. Proper circuit and attention to other aircraft is
still the same only the nose may be higher on flare, big deal.
Ed Hobenshield - RV-6 - 400+ tailwheel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Starter contactor |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> Do I bring power to the "S" stud to activate the starter contactor? If so,
> does the "I" stud need to be connected to anything?
Yes, power is supplied through the switch to the "S" stud. The I stud is for
Ignition. On an automobile from the 60's or 70's this is how power was supplied
to the coil. On my 78 Ford F250 supply jumper the I lead to the battery,
momentarily supply power to the S stud and its hot wired and running. Don't
forget to install the diode you bought from Van's between the S stud and ground,
this protects your expensive switch on the panel.
>
>
> Is the contactor grounded somehow, or does the "I" stud carry the power in
> and the "S" stud actually run to ground through the switch?
The contractor is grounded through it's case.
>
>
> I would assume that I bring the hot wire to the switch and then route the
> power through the switch to the "S" stud when I want to activate the
> starter. If so, where is the ground? Is the "I" stud the ground? If so,
> why is it called "I" and not "G?"
This has been answered above. The "I" stud is hot while the starter is
crancking. This can be wired to a light and should only be on if the contactor
is closed (cranking) or stuck.
>
>
> Questions abound. I checked the archives and found a lot of information
> about things related to the starter contactor, but this did not seem to be a
> topic that has come up before.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ - Just weighed 1018 lb.
>
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A panel and wiring
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
I talked to Deanna yesterday about an order when I didn't get a response to
my e-mail. She said Bob had something like 700 e-mails in queue. I'd suggest
calling them at 316-685-8617 if timing is an issue.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY (reserved)
I am not getting any response from Bob Nuckolls. Has anyone on the rv-list
had any contact with him lately?
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Re: Can you READ english |
I'm thinking that some of the people using AOL as an Internet provider
must only have email access. Not the ability to go to a web site.
Wasn't that last guy also on AOL? (Star449190(at)aol.com)
Maybe Matt can come up with an email un-subscription method.
(I wonder if there is any correlation to being with AOL and having
a rather hostile demeanor?)
>----------
>>From: NSCARRICK(at)aol.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: TAKE MY NAME OFF YOUR FUCKING MAILING LIST NOW
>>Date: Tue, Jan 11, 2000, 1:08 AM
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Starter contactor |
Steve,
Looks like you have plenty of answers for the "S" terminal. I had the same
question about the "I" terminal. The wiring diaghram for my wiring harness I
got from Van's shows that the "I" terminal is *not* used unless you have a
lightweight starter. If so, it connects to the starter. I can look at my
diaghram tonight.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
> ...
>
> Do I bring power to the "S" stud to activate the starter contactor? If so,
> does the "I" stud need to be connected to anything?
>
> ...
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A panel and wiring
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>Vertical stab and rudder
>Engine thrust
>Lifting force on the fuselage
>
>This may appear a little wacked, but remember that these maneuvers aren't
>performed anywhere near the aircraft's stall speed and that lift is a
>function of:
>
>a. coeffiecient of lift
>b. area of lifting surface
>c. air density
>d. velocity squared
>
>The area and Cl may be small, but the benefit obtained by squaring the
>velocity make up for it.
Example: Delmar in the GB.....not only a knife edge, but climbs after
crossing the field, still in the knife edge!
Have a good day!
Denny, RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bob Nuckolls |
>
>I am not getting any response from Bob Nuckolls. Has anyone on the rv-list
>had any contact with him lately?
>Bruce Bell
>Lubbock, Texas
He is going to be in Oregon this week end..maybe he left town....
Have a good day!
Denny, RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
i read a article once on the GeeBee, i think it was by garrison or wainfan,
that said it wasnt the fuse creating the lift but it was those wheel pants.
go figure?
bob Burns
RV-4 s/n 3524 N82RB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Can you READ english |
In a message dated 01/11/2000 11:32:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
lolson(at)doitnow.com writes:
<<
I'm thinking that some of the people using AOL as an Internet provider
must only have email access. Not the ability to go to a web site.
Wasn't that last guy also on AOL? (Star449190(at)aol.com)
Maybe Matt can come up with an email un-subscription method. >>
We AOL users don't see active hyperlinks at the bottom header the way the
rest of the world seems to... so we'd have to copy or type the URL by hand,
not beyond the abilities of the average dweeb.
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Can you READ english |
He does not have a little class: He has a lot of class: It's a shame its all
LOW.
EAA chapter 19 Meeting tonight, Just Have to brag about our chapter. Moved
N468TC to the airport last week for final assembly and the word got out that
the plane was at the airport. Since it is at the airport no less then 30
members have stopped by to give encouragement, support, and help. What a
great bunch of people. Picking up drooped screws washers bolts, Getting tools
and turning wrenches. Loaning tools, heaters, and the most valuable item;
there time to give advise, tips, suggestions, Its just great. THANK YOU
CHAPTER 19. hope to fly by the end of the month. Commander Terry E. Cole
N468TC.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: TAMPA JIG STILL AVAILABLE |
Dear listers,
so far my jig is still available, one guy who responded will not need one
till next year, the other guy is building an rv 4.
this jig is very well made, straight and square. over $100 in materials and
about a half a days contruction. will deliver in the tampa area for $75.00.
i have a big cube van that makes a trip all over florida once a month,
delivery is free is a schedule can be worked out. i would hate to make
firewood out of this masterpiece.
please contact me off list
thanks
scott
tampa
rv6a mounting tail
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: constructive critiques |
Great critiques of Tatco and Avery hand squeezers from Rick Jory and from
Fred Kunkel!
Thanks!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Changing N-Number Registration |
Isn't everything if the check it BIG enough????
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Fesenbek, Gary <fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 9:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Changing N-Number Registration
>
>Changing your N-Number is as easy as writing a check....
>
>Gary Fesenbek
>RV6A
>Dallas, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tatco Squeezer, was Which RV Tool Set, Avery or |
Cleaveland?
I have both the Tatco and Avery. Bob Avery told me when I bought his I would
never want to use the Tatco again - and he was right!!!
You can certainly build a plane with it but the Avery is much better!!!
Len
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fuselage Jig Available in SF area |
Solid and straight -6 or -6A fuselage jig still available in Pleasanton, CA.
Over $300 in material. Free to serious builder, just come and get it.
Harry Crosby
HCRV6(at)aol.com
925-485-9358
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
I AM LOOKING TO BUY AN RV-3, WANT AN 0-320, WING TANKS A PLUS, AND IN VERY
GOOD CONDITION.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
Subject: | Re: Check Six Newsletter |
Scott--
I purchased Tom Hallendorf's RV-Super Six in Oct., 99. I might be
interested in your newsletter. Is the F-1 Rocket based on the RV-4
Harmon Rocket or does it have a modified RV-6 fuselage. I couldn't tell
from your website.
Boyd C. Braem
bcbraem(at)home.com
804 Longbow Trail
Osprey, FL 34229
F1Rocket(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers, I have completed the next issue of the Rocket Newsletter, Check Six!
> and am ready to send to the press. If there is anyone that is interested in a
> subscription to the newsletter, please let me know. Cost is $25 for the year.
> We have all kinds of information in it that will help RVers as well as
> Rocketeers. You can either call me with your order or go to our new website
> at www.teamrocketaircraft.com and go to the newsletter tab for the secure
> server credit card order. Thanks!
>
> Scott
> Team Rocket, inc.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
____
Earl,
I also have this setup, and after flying for 6.5 years, never had a
problem switching tanks....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
From: WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Selector Valve
>
> I have Vans 3 port fuel valve as supplied with the rv4 kit and
would
> like to use it. If mounted in the floor I would like to set it up
so
> the the pointed end of the handle will point toward the tank in
use.
> If I do this the center port will have to be pluged. When
switching
> tanks I will have to go through the off position (center port) to
get
> to the other tank. Is this dangerous, is there any possibility
that
> it could get stuck in that position? I know several have
suggested
> the andair. Is it that much better or safer than the one supplied
by
> Van.
> Earl still trying to make up my mind
Earl I have the setup you describe , only taxiing at this point but
work fine switching tanks, I don't need to second guess Vans &
spend more money if it's not necessary.
Wayne RV4 wing filletsdon't fit well.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Check Six Newsletter |
In a message dated 1/11/00 3:01:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, F1Rocket writes:
<< In a message dated 1/11/00 2:57:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
<< Scott--
I purchased Tom Hallendorf's RV-Super Six in Oct., 99. I might be
interested in your newsletter. Is the F-1 Rocket based on the RV-4
Harmon Rocket or does it have a modified RV-6 fuselage. I couldn't tell
from your website.
Boyd C. Braem
bcbraem(at)home.com
804 Longbow Trail
Osprey, FL 34229
>>
REALLY!!! Very fast airplane. I am very interested in talking to you. If you
get a chance, please give me a call at 561-748-2429. I see that you are
located here in FL, my Rocket will be completed in May or so and I will be
flying it home from Texas then. Where is Osprey FL??
Scott >>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
Subject: | RE: Your Instrument Panel |
Ralph,
Mooney's have access panels in front of the windshield on the outside
skin of the fuselage. They require seals to keep water from entering the
fuselage. I've used 1/16" silicon rubber in this area with great success:
I've never had a leak.
The basic instrument panel on my RV-6A (mines a tip-up canopy) is not
removable. All wiring was originally performed with the top front skin still
not riveted in place This facilitated ease in running and bundling the wires
on the IFR designed instrument panel. Originally, I did not have the front
top skin access panels installed, but after several bouts with trying to pry
myself out from under the panel after performing re-wiring of radios, I came
to the conclusion that they were very necessary. I'm 5' 11" and weight 215#,
so you can imagine my frustration in getting under that panel.
I currently have only one access panel installed, directly behind the
radio stack. It is physically located between F646 (right side) and
centrally located top skin stiffener that runs up to the firewall. On a
slider fuselage, the access panel would be located between F6107 and the
same centrally located top skin stiffener. My access panel is square shaped,
with the maximum dimension dictated by the clearances between the elements
under the skin. In hind-sight, I should have made it rectangular so that I
could reach in to the radio stack more easily.
I construction the access panel with a .040" stiffener ring that has #8
nutplates for holding the panel tightly against the gasket. The stiffener is
riveted in place with about 1" spacing on the rivets. Prior to riveting,
use plenty of that leftover, outdated, proseal from building your tanks, as
a sealant between the stiffener and the top skin. The cover for the access
panel is constructed from the same thickness material as the front top skin.
Because the gasket introduces a slight build-up in total thickness, I used
the Avery skin edge tool to lessen the slight edge bulge of the cover.
In hind sight, I would now install as many as four access panels in this
front skin area, allowing total access to everything behind the
non-removable instrument panel.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ralph E.Capen [SMTP:Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 3:52 PM
> To: Stucklen, Frederic IFC
> Subject: RE: Your Instrument Panel
>
> Fred,
>
> More info please about the access panels - not familiar with how the
> Mooneys are config'd.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
> QB ordered while I work on EMP (HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime)!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Listers,
Last week I installed a "Senco" carbon monoxide detector in my RV. The
unit is smaller than the "Aim" detector. I have always carried those
little card things (DeadStop)in my car and airplane. The only time I see
one with the spot black indicating the presence CO is when I get my car
back from the repair shop. Must suck to be a mechanic and breath that
enviroment all day.
Anyway, I am picking up low levels of CO (10-20ppm) during taxi
operations. I never knew. Kind of tells me that I should have a fresh
air vent open in the winter time. I suspect that the CO is coming in
through the exhaust vent of the cabin heat selector when cowl airflows
are low and the exhaust slip joints are leaking. BTW the alarm is very
loud and noticable even at cruise speeds. Cheap piece of mind for $40.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener, ON
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Fw: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! |
name="THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!.eml"
filename="THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!.eml"
From: Unicorncak(at)aol.com
Full-name: Unicorncak
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 17:21:05 EST
Subject: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
CowgirlTN(at)aol.com, HEADLEY794(at)MINDSPRING.COM, jakecook(at)earthlink.net,
Tracy_Legg(at)prhc.net, TGrantM(at)aol.com, Camperrk(at)aol.com,
schusterz(at)mindspring.com, spidermaneyes(at)hotmail.com,
cfarmers(at)mindspring.com, westfall(at)agentfinder.com,
tiffanyb98(at)yahoo.com
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
PASS THIS ON TO ANYONE YOU HAVE AN E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR. IT IS REAL AND NOT A
JOKE
If you receive an email titled "It Takes Guts to Say Jesus" DO NOT OPEN IT.
It will erase everything on your hard drive. This information was announced
yesterday morning from IBM; AOL states that this is a very dangerous virus,
much worse than "Melissa," and that there is NO remedy for it at this time.
Some very sick individual has succeeded in using the reformat function from
Norton Utilities causing it to completely
erase all documents on the hard drive. It has been designed to work with
Netscape Navigator and Microsoft Internet Explorer. It destroys Macintosh
and IBM compatible computers.
This is a new, very malicious virus and not many people know about it. Pass
this warning along to EVERYONE in your address book and please share it with
all your online friends ASAP so that this threat may be stopped.
Please practice cautionary measures and tell anyone that may have access to
your computer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Von Dane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Subject: | Fw: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! |
This is a hoax... More information here:
http://vil.mcafee.com/vil/vh10053.asp
Although I am sure we all appreciate the thought and intent, this is
probably not an appropriate use for this list...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Emrath
Sent: January 11, 2000 3:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fw: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
name="THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!.eml"
filename="THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!.eml"
From: Unicorncak(at)aol.com
Full-name: Unicorncak
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 17:21:05 EST
Subject: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
CowgirlTN(at)aol.com, HEADLEY794(at)MINDSPRING.COM,
jakecook(at)earthlink.net,
Tracy_Legg(at)prhc.net, TGrantM(at)aol.com, Camperrk(at)aol.com,
schusterz(at)mindspring.com, spidermaneyes(at)hotmail.com,
cfarmers(at)mindspring.com, westfall(at)agentfinder.com,
tiffanyb98(at)yahoo.com
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
PASS THIS ON TO ANYONE YOU HAVE AN E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR. IT IS REAL AND NOT A
JOKE
If you receive an email titled "It Takes Guts to Say Jesus" DO NOT OPEN IT.
It will erase everything on your hard drive. This information was announced
yesterday morning from IBM; AOL states that this is a very dangerous virus,
much worse than "Melissa," and that there is NO remedy for it at this time.
Some very sick individual has succeeded in using the reformat function from
Norton Utilities causing it to completely
erase all documents on the hard drive. It has been designed to work with
Netscape Navigator and Microsoft Internet Explorer. It destroys Macintosh
and IBM compatible computers.
This is a new, very malicious virus and not many people know about it. Pass
this warning along to EVERYONE in your address book and please share it with
all your online friends ASAP so that this threat may be stopped.
Please practice cautionary measures and tell anyone that may have access to
your computer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Albert Colunio" <acoluni1(at)twcny.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: TAKE MY NAME OFF YOUR FUCKING MAILING LIST NOW |
Hey, stupid, try reading the end of this e-mail. go to the site that says
"subscribe" and get someone to read the instructions of "unsubscribeing"
from this list. Try not to visit us again
----- Original Message -----
From: <NSCARRICK(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 2:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: TAKE MY NAME OFF YOUR FUCKING MAILING LIST NOW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
Subject: | LOOKING TO BUY RV-3 |
WANT RV-3 ,WING TANKS A PLUS, 0-320, IN VERY GOOD CONDITION.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: TAKE MY NAME OFF THIS FUCKING LIST NOW |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
Subject: | TAKE MY NAME OFF THIS ----------LIST NOW--oops!!!! |
Jimminey cricket--now my computer is firing off messages of it's own accord.
Who is that guy--I think I remember when he got on the list with big talk
about Porche racing cars and how he ought to be able to build one of those
machines (RV8). Some people these days are just plain trashy and have
absolutely no class, no values, no upbringing and are not worth the dirt on
my shoes--I think nascar guy qualifies for jerk of the year and it is only a
few days old. This kind of language is unwarranted and I do not want to see
this stuff. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Microair 760 (push to talk) |
This is RF feedback, try a different length cable, ,01 ufd capacitors
across the leads, ferrite beads on the leads at each end.
christopher huey wrote:
>
>
> I have a Microair 760 radio and when I depress the push to talk I get a
> loud squeal, however this only happens when the push to talk is in the
> airframe. If I stand outside and just hold the button no problems,
> transmits -fine. Also this only happens with my (Radio Shack) push button,
> if I use a portable push to talk (plugs into a headset-David Clark) no
> problems. Tried shielded wire for the push to talk lead, moved ant around
> (small improvement), etc. Any idea's on what might cause this?
>
> THX
> C.H.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Has anybody had any problems with mail from matronics in the last few
days.
twice now a message send from rv-list(at)matronics.com has caused havoc
with my spooler file on my ISP server.
In all honesty, I believe the cause to be at my ISP. I'd say 90% of my
mail comes from rv-list(at)matronics.com, therefore the chance that a
message from matronics becomes corrupted when residing on my ISP's
server is great.
But just thought I check it out anyway.
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
I am looking for some feedback on the setup for the F605 bulkhead. In my
case, if I center the F605 in the jig and place it 26 1/4 inches from the
F604 the F605 seems to be about 1/2" to 5/8" too wide. I have made
measurements from the center line out 21 1/8" and it just wont sit
correctly. What am I missing??? Someone (non-builder) suggested trimming the
corners of the F605 to make it fit but that cant be good.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/11/00 2:13:20 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tjantzi(at)netrover.com writes:
<< Last week I installed a "Senco" carbon monoxide detector in my RV. The
unit is smaller than the "Aim" detector. >>
Terry-
Where did you buy it?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Craig,
The alodine can be saved and used again. It does have a shelf life but it
is fairly long. I don't remember how long.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB wiring......still!!
>From: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Alodine
>Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 13:48:15 -0500
>
><cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
>
>I've heard many people on the list mention putting the alodine in a tub of
>some sort and immersing the parts for a minute or so during prep. My
>question is, can this alodine then be put back in the can and reused or do
>you discard the contents of the tub after each alodine session? Also, I've
>heard alodine has a shelf life. Does it and if so how long is it?
>
>Craig Paulson
>RV6A wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6BLDR <calverjl(at)flash.net> |
Someone had posted a message looking for some tools. Here's an ad I ran
across for tools and all kinds of stuff:
RV6A EMPENNAGE KIT, TOOLS, PLANS, VIDEOS AND JIG
AVAILABLE FOR SALE OR TRADE!! .. RV6A Tail Kit, complete
Avery Toolkit, Plans, "How To" Construction Videos, Newsletters,
Jigs, everything you need .. Stabilizer finished with excellent
workmanship .. (lost medical) .. $1500 OBO or trade for
planner-jointer,
shifter kart, or ? .. Contact Jim Lunan located Gresham OREGON USA.
Telephone: 503-667-0433. -- Posted 8 January 2000
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
Subject: | WigWag Landing Light Controller |
I would like to get a estimate of how many might purchase a Landing and/or
Taxi Light WigWag Solid State Controller. It would be packaged in one unit
with 8 terminals. See below. To indicate your interest (or not), please
respond to my email address bhaan(at)easystreet.com not to the list at matronics.
View this table and symbol with a fixed spaced font such as Courier.
Modes of operation: 1. Left light on. 2. Right light on. 3. WigWag -
alternate on and off of the left and right lights.
Feature Benefits
--------------------- --------------------------------
1. Solid State Relays 1.a More Reliable
1.b Reduced RF Noise
1.c Less Power
1.d Can use smaller switches
1.e Can use less expensive switches
2. Simple to install 2.a Fewer connections - more reliable
2.b Saves builder time
3. Choice of two redundant +12 3.a If fuse or the connections for one
volt inputs (can use only 1) fails, the other light still works
4. High current to the 4.a Longer Switch life
lights does not go through 4.b Smaller switches
the panel switches that 4.c Less expensive switches
control the mode of operation 4.d More reliable
4.e Can use small 22AWG wire for the
control switches connections
5. Attention getting alternate 5.a Significantly more noticeable - Safer
flashing operation of
Landing/Taxi Lights
Fuse Fuse
or or
CB CB
$ $ |---|
| | | |
| | | GND
| | |
*******0********0*******0**********
* 1 2 3 *
* *
Left * * Right
Lamp Q-----0 8 4 0-----Q Lamp
150W | * * | 150W
| * * |
GND * 7 6 5 * GND
********0********0********0********
| | |
| 22AWG | 22AWG | 22AWG
| | |
. . .
S1 / S2 / S3 /
| | |
| 22AWG | 22AWG | 22AWG
| | |
GND GND GND
Terminal 1 = +12V Source Left Light
Terminal 2 = +12V Source Right Light
Terminal 3 = Ground
Terminal 4 = Power to Right Wing Landing/Taxi Light
Terminal 5 = WigWag On
Terminal 6 = Right Landing/Taxi Light On
Terminal 7 = Left Landing/Taxi Light On
Terminal 8 = Power to Left Wing Landing/Taxi Light
Notes:-
1. Terminals 1 and 2 can be wired together and connected to a single Fuse
or Circuit Breaker. However, failure of this fuse or CB or associated
wiring and connections would make both Landing/Taxi lights and the WigWag
mode fail.
2. Switches S1 and S2 and S3 could be replaced with multi-function
switches. For Example S2 could be an off-on-on switch connected to terminal
6 and terminal 5. This switch raised to the mid position would turn on the
Right Light and to the top position would turn on WigWag. S1 would be
replaced like S2. Raising it to the full up position would also turn on the
WigWag function
3. Terminals six and seven could be wired together and turned on with one
switch. Again, this would give up redundancy and a failure of this one
switch or associated wiring would make both lights inoperable in the on
mode. The WigWag mode would still work if terminal five was triggered by a
separate switch.
4. One switch could be used to select all modes. For example, an off-on-on
switch could have the first "on" wired to terminals 6 & 7 and the other
"on" wired to terminal 5. This switch set to the first "on" position would
turn on both Landing Lights. Setting it to the second "on" position would
turn on WigWag.
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: TAKE MY NAME OFF THIS ----------LIST NOW--oops!!!! |
I'm not sure what that is supposed to mean....but I'm the Porsche race car
building RV-4 builder you're referring to and I assure you I have more class
than to openly insult someone like you just did. You should be ashamed of
yourself. If you'd like to drive 430 horsepower on the street
though....you're still welcome. Provided you leave your attitude at home.
The dirt on your shoes
Bill Shook
> Jimminey cricket--now my computer is firing off messages of it's own
accord.
> Who is that guy--I think I remember when he got on the list with big talk
> about Porche racing cars and how he ought to be able to build one of those
> machines (RV8). Some people these days are just plain trashy and have
> absolutely no class, no values, no upbringing and are not worth the dirt
on
> my shoes--I think nascar guy qualifies for jerk of the year and it is only
a
> few days old. This kind of language is unwarranted and I do not want to
see
> this stuff. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Don't immerse tooo long
light tan is okay, light golden depending on alclad or not.
If u leave the part too long and it gets too dark the alodine will only
last a very short time.
Not only that but too long will give a residue on yer parts which will
flake the paint off.
ask me how I know................
Gert
Michael Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Craig,
>
> The alodine can be saved and used again. It does have a shelf life but it
> is fairly long. I don't remember how long.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A QB wiring......still!!
>
> >From: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Alodine
> >Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 13:48:15 -0500
> >
> ><cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
> >
> >I've heard many people on the list mention putting the alodine in a tub of
> >some sort and immersing the parts for a minute or so during prep. My
> >question is, can this alodine then be put back in the can and reused or do
> >you discard the contents of the tub after each alodine session? Also, I've
> >heard alodine has a shelf life. Does it and if so how long is it?
> >
> >Craig Paulson
> >RV6A wings
> >
> >
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
Subject: | LOOKING TO BUY RV-3 |
WANT RV-3 WITH 0-320, WING TANKS A PLUS, MUST VERY GOOD CONDITION, THANKS
MIKE AT MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
Subject: | Re: RV6A and F605 |
Rick,
Because the longerons are curved where the F605 is mounted, the F605F
(top channel on the F605 bulkhead) does need to be trimmed to fit
between the longerons. You end up with the end of the F605F being
angled (or curved if you are a purist) to fit between the longerons.
Steve Allison
RV-6A - almost ready to drill the landing gear mounts
Rick & Barbara Osgood wrote:
>
>
> I am looking for some feedback on the setup for the F605 bulkhead. In my
> case, if I center the F605 in the jig and place it 26 1/4 inches from the
> F604 the F605 seems to be about 1/2" to 5/8" too wide. I have made
> measurements from the center line out 21 1/8" and it just wont sit
> correctly. What am I missing??? Someone (non-builder) suggested trimming the
> corners of the F605 to make it fit but that cant be good.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
I thought I'd be smart and start out with the 3" yoke, figuring I could
reach more places. After many mediocre rivets I discovered it was the
yoke, not my skills. The 1 1/2" yoke will work fine, but the 3" size
flexes too much. You will also discover that the bigger yoke also doesn't
fit in many places. I agree that the handles are uncomfortable and
undersized, seeing that mine now have a slight bow to them.
Kevin -6A 500hrs (and paint!)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 804H too short! |
Just a question to those who have been here before. I made my 804H plates
last night, and discovered only afterward that the stock provided was only 24
inches long. The plans call for these pieces to be 24 21/32 long. The sticker
on the actual plates provided says "24+". Is this length critical? If not,
how should the plate be aligned--at the top (as jigged), at the bottom--or
split the difference? Or, do I just stop production in this area for 2 weeks
and insist on new pieces from Vans?
I plan to call Vans later today if I get a chance, but thought someone here
may have ideas.
Thanks,
Keith
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | We're digging out of the rubble . . . |
Our offices and shop have been in turmoil for the past
week. We've had a contractor in working on our basement walls
stabilizing them and fixing leaks. Everything is pulled out
from the walls and we've got boxes stacked everywhere! The
final inspection is today and we'll be putting things back into
working order as soon as we can get at it . . . leaving 6:15 am
tomorrow to do a weekend seminar in Oregon!
Dee and I will be working to catch up as many orders as we
can before we leave. It's going to be a little while before
we're back to normal as there's much "stuff" that has to
be put back where it belongs. I'll be taking a ton of e-mail
messages with me on the laptop and will try to catch up
on our list-server activities while we travel.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | looking for software . . . |
Given that many of our brothers in aviation are also plugged
into cyber-products, I thought I would inquire on the lists
about recommendations for some shopping cart software.
I've looked at several packages . . . there are dozens
that e-mail a detailed and properly totaled order. Problem
is that it would be just as convenient if it were faxed to us;
we still have to re-keypunch data into the invoicing and
packing list.
Are any of you aware of an integrated package that ties
website orders to the office data base so that we don't
have to re-enter information already entered by the customer?
It's really easy to make mistakes during the transcription
process . . . Thanks!
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Starter contactor |
>Looks like you have plenty of answers for the "S" terminal. I had the same
>question about the "I" terminal. The wiring diaghram for my wiring harness I
>got from Van's shows that the "I" terminal is *not* used unless you have a
>lightweight starter. If so, it connects to the starter. I can look at my
>diaghram tonight.
The "I" terminal is used on older 12v cars that have a ballast
resistor in series with a 6v ignition coil. The resistor is
in place for normal running but the "I" terminal shorts out
the resistor during cranking to get you a hotter spark for
starting.
The "I" terminal can be used to power a "starter engaged" light
on the panel if you like. Put an inline fusible link at the
"I" terminal and extend the wire into the cockpit to a lamp
with the other side at ground. The light will illuminate
any time the starter contactor is engaged . . . including
any time it is "stuck".
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: 804H too short! |
>
>Just a question to those who have been here before. I made my 804H plates
>last night, and discovered only afterward that the stock provided was only
>24
>inches long. The plans call for these pieces to be 24 21/32 long. The
>sticker
>on the actual plates provided says "24+". Is this length critical? If not,
>how should the plate be aligned--at the top (as jigged), at the bottom--or
>split the difference? Or, do I just stop production in this area for 2
>weeks
>and insist on new pieces from Vans?
>
>I plan to call Vans later today if I get a chance, but thought someone here
>may have ideas.
>
>Thanks,
>Keith
I fitted the plates up against the bottom edge of the main longerons and
where they ended up on the bottom wasn't an issue as I recall. They were
long enough to do the job.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD Flying
12 hours so far. Will work for Avgas.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Where to get DP-70 primer? |
You would think that after spending countless hours searching the archives
about primers that I couldn't possibly come up with another primer question.
Wrong! Here's my question:
In the archives I found some references to DuPont DP-70 primer and some
references to PPG DP-70 primer. I have searched both DuPont's and PPG's web
sites for references to DP-70 and came up empty in both places. So who
really makes DP-70 and where can I find some? (I also checked the Aircraft
Spruce catalog.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
Anxiously waiting for RV-9A empennage kit and a large carton from Avery to
arrive.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | RV-6 tail kit for sale |
Fellow Listers:
A friend who is not on the list has the following for sale:
RV-6 tail kit. Horz and vert stabs completed, etched and primed. Some work
finished on elevators. Excellent workmanship. $1400 or best offer.
Contact Mike Carver at 651-275-0354.
Located in the Minneapolis area.
Thanks,
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Andy Wereley" <awereley(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: 804H too short! |
>>
>>Just a question to those who have been here before. I made my 804H plates
>>last night, and discovered only afterward that the stock provided was only
>>24
>>inches long. The plans call for these pieces to be 24 21/32 long. The
>>sticker
>>on the actual plates provided says "24+". Is this length critical? If not,
>>how should the plate be aligned--at the top (as jigged), at the bottom--or
>>split the difference? Or, do I just stop production in this area for 2
>>weeks
>>and insist on new pieces from Vans?
>>
I don't know how critical it is, but the parts in my kit were the correct
size. You might want to call Van's before deviating from the plans.
Andy Wereley
RV-8 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 1/11/00 2:13:20 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> tjantzi(at)netrover.com writes:
>
> << Last week I installed a "Senco" carbon monoxide detector in my RV. The
> unit is smaller than the "Aim" detector. >>
>
> Terry-
>
> Where did you buy it?
>
> -GV
>
Purchased at Home Depot (aviation aisle). Dimensions about 3.5" x 5.5" x
1.5". It conveniently fit in between the corrugated channels on the
baggage bulkhead. As I am the "King of Velcro", it is attached with
..... Velcro. It has a small LED that flashes every so often, making it
look like I have a burglar alarm installed. Time will tell if it's
robust enough for aviation use. I will keep the list posted on it's
longevity.
I just got back from doing circuits behind a couple of 152's. I was
fairly slow and the fresh air vents were closed (hey! it's winter here).
I was still getting periodic readings of aprox 14ppm. I'm going to keep
an eye on this and see how I can modify the cabin heat box. It might
just need to be rotated. I can see any CO levels being detrimental to
night flying, when you need all the visual acuity possible.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener ON
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
Rick:
Detail A of the corner of the F605 shows that it sits within the
longerons. The F657 plates will go between the longeron & the top of the
605. I had to grind & file them down to fit. Just make that 42.5 across
the longerons.
The f604 will sit butted to the longerons & the 605 sits down in the
longerons.
Your set ribs will control the 26.25 distance from the 604 at the bottom
& your top dimension will be controlled by the cross member of the
fixture. All the BH's should be plumb except the 604.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
writes:
>
>
>I am looking for some feedback on the setup for the F605 bulkhead. In
>my case, if I center the F605 in the jig and place it 26 1/4 inches from
>the F604 the F605 seems to be about 1/2" to 5/8" too wide. I have made
>measurements from the center line out 21 1/8" and it just wont sit
>correctly. What am I missing??? Someone (non-builder) suggested
>trimming the
>corners of the F605 to make it fit but that cant be good.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rick
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
Subject: | Re: Where to get DP-70 primer? |
Chris, DP-70 is a PPG product and can be found or ordered at any automotive
paint store that carries PPG products.
check out this site under primer for a phone number.
Mike
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
From: C J Heitman <cjh(at)execpc.com> on 01/12/2000 10:08 AM
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Where to get DP-70 primer?
You would think that after spending countless hours searching the archives
about primers that I couldn't possibly come up with another primer question.
Wrong! Here's my question:
In the archives I found some references to DuPont DP-70 primer and some
references to PPG DP-70 primer. I have searched both DuPont's and PPG's web
sites for references to DP-70 and came up empty in both places. So who
really makes DP-70 and where can I find some? (I also checked the Aircraft
Spruce catalog.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
Anxiously waiting for RV-9A empennage kit and a large carton from Avery to
arrive.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 804H too short! |
I got a response back from Vans. They said that a few of these parts got out
too short, and that they would get me replacements ASAP. Those of you with
fuse kits for the 8 may want to go ahead and check the length of these parts,
just in case you were lucky enough to get one of the short parts. That way,
if you catch it in time, you won't get held up from proceeding when the time
comes to use them.
Now I'm scratching my head about what I can do to not lose too much time. I
really wanted to be drilling fuse skins by the weekend.
Thumb twiddling.....
Keith
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com |
Subject: | Piper Pitot-Static Probe |
I just acquired a pitot-static probe off a Piper Cherokee 6. I'd like to hear
from anyone who is flying with this type of probe where you located the probe on
the wing and how accurate it is. Did you have to shim (or grind) the base of it
one way or the other to get the alignment right, or did you just bolt it to an
access panel and mount it flush to the wing?
Also, does anyone know if there's a significant difference between the probes
used on different models of Pipers (Warrior, Arrow, Cherokee 6, etc.)? Someone
told me the probes look the same but actually have subtle differences in the
location of the holes, each one being calibrated for the specific aircraft type.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
RV-8A wings
Cedar Rapids, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Alabama Builders? |
Hey Mike,
Give me a call or drop me a line when you get into the area, I'm about an
hour and 40 mins south of Montgomery. I'm station at Ft. Rucker, AL and
building a 4, just got a t hanger and should start installing my engine next
month.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Construction Log? |
Listers,
I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of a
construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector will
deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4. So far all I have
is some scribblings, sketches, Van's plans, etc... If anyone has any
thoughts on what the FAA guy will expect, or better yet if anyone has a
construction log that "actually flew" when they got inspected, I would
appreciate looking at it and/or hearing from you.
Thanks, Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
Subject: | Re: Where to get DP-70 primer? |
Chris
DP 70 is made by PPG. Go to your local auto paint store and ask if they
carry PPG products. Not all auto paint stores will carry it. Most towns of
at least 50K population will have a least one auto paint store.
Aircraft Spruce does not carry this paint. I do not know of anyone who
sells this paint by mail.
FYI, I just bought a gallon of PPG OMNI AU paint (with all of the reducer
and hardner) for $89.00! I was expecting to pay much more!
Bob Busick
-----Original Message-----
From: C J Heitman <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 6:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Where to get DP-70 primer?
>
>You would think that after spending countless hours searching the archives
>about primers that I couldn't possibly come up with another primer
question.
>Wrong! Here's my question:
>
>In the archives I found some references to DuPont DP-70 primer and some
>references to PPG DP-70 primer. I have searched both DuPont's and PPG's web
>sites for references to DP-70 and came up empty in both places. So who
>really makes DP-70 and where can I find some? (I also checked the Aircraft
>Spruce catalog.)
>
>Chris Heitman
>Dousman WI
>Anxiously waiting for RV-9A empennage kit and a large carton from Avery to
>arrive.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Acceptable props for O-360 RV6A |
I thought I saw a posting listing acceptable props that can be used on a
RV6A with an O-360 engine, but I cant find it. Is there such a list?
RV6A finishing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
Subject: | Re: Where to get DP-70 primer? |
Oopps, I forgot something.
http://www.ppg.com/frames/autocoat.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | Where to get DP-70 primer? |
Mike wrote:
Chris, DP-70 is a PPG product and can be found or ordered at any automotive
paint store that carries PPG products.
check out this site under primer for a phone number.
Mike
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
Mike,
I beg to differ. Below is note I sent to Chris. This info came from the Spec sheet
P-122 from Ditzler (PPG). It is old however, 10/93,and may be obsolete,
but I don't think so.
Laird
Hi Chris,
You won't find DP-70 from PPG. I used PPG's epoxy primer DP-40 on my RV-6. They
also have DP-48, DP-50, DP-74 and DP-90 in the epoxy category. The 40 is gray-green,
the 50 is white, but must be preprimed with an etching primer, the 74
is oxide red, and the 90 is black. PPG paints can be purchased from a auto
paint store. You'll need to call around to find one that carries PPG products.
I'd bet the DP-70 is a dupont #.
Good luck with the RV-9A
Laird RV-6 22923
SoCal (painting fuse...with PPG products)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
>
> I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of a
> construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector will
> deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4.
We have such an item which is put out by EAA. Look in the Log Book category of
the on-line catalog. It gives places to enter sources of your materials,
control movement specs, CG data, performance specs, equipment lists, rigging,
fuel and electrical schematics, and lots of other stuff.
I think its one of the best things EAA has ever put out; and its only $5.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
Chuck, the important thing about any construction log is to show that you
conformed to the 51% rule and built most of the plane yourself. To that end,
I've talked with some (2) builders of various aircraft who did nothing more than
take lots of pictures of themselves performing the various functions of aircraft
construction with no text at all. Conversly, a 1000 page manual of notes with
no backup pictures may not "prove" anything to a critical inspector.
I don't think that anything states that you have to log the number of hours of
each step of the construction. You probably don't even need to actually build
it yourself for that matter. I know one guy who supervised his kids building
the plane!! He had a little 3 child airplane factory set up in his garage and
probably never bucked a rivet in his life (he's reading this so no names won't
be mentioned :>) , yet he got his sign off just fine.
Keep in mind that this comes from a neophyte, fledging first time builder.
Mike
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
From: "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> on 01/12/2000 10:27 AM
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Construction Log?
Listers,
I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of a
construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector will
deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4. So far all I have
is some scribblings, sketches, Van's plans, etc... If anyone has any
thoughts on what the FAA guy will expect, or better yet if anyone has a
construction log that "actually flew" when they got inspected, I would
appreciate looking at it and/or hearing from you.
Thanks, Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
Chuck,
There are a few commercial logs out there that you can use but the actual
best one I have seen are simple spiral bound notebooks with individual
entries prefaced by the date of the work. One person I saw went so far as
to reference pictures and had all his pictures numbered and taped in the
back of the notebook. That is all you really need. There is nothing in the
certification order for us inspectors that says what the log has to be. We
just need proof that the aircraft was 51% built by someone other than the
factory.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB STILL wiring
"Das Fed"
>From: "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-4"
>Subject: RV-List: Construction Log?
>Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 10:27:34 -0600
>
>
>Listers,
>
> I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of a
>construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector will
>deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4. So far all I have
>is some scribblings, sketches, Van's plans, etc... If anyone has any
>thoughts on what the FAA guy will expect, or better yet if anyone has a
>construction log that "actually flew" when they got inspected, I would
>appreciate looking at it and/or hearing from you.
>
> Thanks, Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
>Listers,
>
> I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of a
>construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector will
>deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4. So far all I have
>is some scribblings, sketches, Van's plans, etc... If anyone has any
>thoughts on what the FAA guy will expect, or better yet if anyone has a
>construction log that "actually flew" when they got inspected, I would
>appreciate looking at it and/or hearing from you.
>
> Thanks, Chuck
Chuck,
I kept a running Word file of my project through the end of the wing kit and
early into the fuselage kit. I also was updating my web page with photos and
comments and figured that I was duplicating effort. So, the text file was
abandoned. When I contacted the local FAA inspector, I gave him the URL to
my webpage and said I considered it to be my "builder's log" if he wanted to
see it. Well, he didn't, and said all he needed for my file at the FSDO
office were three hard copy photos....an early stage, middle and toward the
end of the project. He said he would download and print the photos off the
webpage when he returned to the office. I don't know if he ended up doing
so, but my overall impression is that if the inspector likes your
craftsmanship, and you are obviously the builder of the airplane, you have
nothing to worry about. My inspector was primarily concerned with my
safety....just the stuff that can kill a guy. It was actually a very
pleasant experience and took about two hours...most of which was spent with
hangar talk. ;) He did go over every critical fitting with minute attention
to detail and asked questions that were clearly meant to determine that I
was indeed the builder of the aircraft. He was satisfied, and I picked up
my airworthiness certificate at his office the following weekend.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
12 hours of giddy RV grins.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Piper Pitot-Static Probe |
In a message dated 1/12/2000 2:03:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com writes:
> I just acquired a pitot-static probe off a Piper Cherokee 6. I'd like to
> hear
> from anyone who is flying with this type of probe where you located the
> probe on
> the wing and how accurate it is.
Mark,
I put mine in the next bay outboard of the 3rd inspection panel approx. 7-8
inches aft of the main spar. It approximates the location of the on my
Cherokee. Used an .040 doubler behind it with platenunts for easy service.
Plumbing is with Nyloseal tubing with a bit of a loop inside the wing so I
can pull the whole works out and service it if necessary. Yes, I've heard
there are variations in the design also, affecting primarily the static port
on the bottom. I'm going to use Van's static system as well so we'll see how
they compare. Maybe use one as an alternate source if they're close. I used
the Piper part because I wanted and heated pitot tube and I like the simple,
rigid design.
-Don
RV-8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hamilton, Thom" <Thom.Hamilton(at)usa.xerox.com> |
Subject: | PPG Paint Information - Tech Line Number and FaxBack Service |
OK, here's my archive-worthy contribution for the month.
If you need any information on PPG Automotive Paint Products there are 2
really good sources of information available. The PPG Tech Line is
440-572-6111. They have real live humans who know most everything (at least
the technical stuff) about their various products.
More often you want some information in one of their Tech Bulletins. You
can use their 24-hour-a-day FaxBack service to get those. Just call
1-800-450-2654 and follow the prompts to have the bulletins faxed to your
fax machine within 10 minutes. When you call up the first time, have them
send you all 9 of the Indexes (call twice, they will only send 5 items per
call) of bulletins and these will show you the faxback codes to enter for
each bulletin you want in the future. Here are some that people might find
interesting:
7122 DP Epoxy Primers (including 48,50,90, etc.)
7141 DX1791/1792 Self-Etching Primer (AKA Vari-Prime)
7153 DP70 Epoxy Primer (the Mil-Spec one)
7163 DPE1538 Zinc Chromate Primer (Flat Black, for fenderwells, etc. Not
Quite like aviation ZC)
7178 DX Solvent Cleaners
7196 DPLF Epoxy Primers (Lead-Free replacements for the DP 48,50,90, etc.)
7226 Metal Treatments (Etching, Alodining, etc.)
The 9th index they have, the Miscellaneous category, even includes Paint Gun
Setups for various brands and models as a starting point.
Hope this helps.
Thom Hamilton
MCSE, CNE, PP-ASEL, etc.
RV-8: Wings Thank God for pre-punched stiffeners!
Baton Rouge, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DAVE GEHLE <GARBROCO(at)garbro.com> |
Subject: | Re: Piper Pitot-Static Probe |
MARK,
I HAVE HAD A "PIPER BLADE" TYPE PITOT/STATIC ON MY RV-4 SINCE 1991.
MOUNTED ON THE LEFT WINGJUST OUTBOARD OF THE AILERON BELLCRANK ACCESS PLATE AND
JUST
AFT OF THE SPAR. I BELIEVE THAT THIS IS THE LOCATION SHOWN ON THE PLANS FOR THE
TUBE TYPE PITOT. THE PITOT AND STATIC LINES ARE ALUMINUM TUBE, 3/16, RUNNING
INBOARD ON THE FORWARD SIDE THE MAIN SPAR WEB AND AFT OF THE TANK BAFFLE. WITH
THE
ACCESS PANEL ADJACENT, NO ADDITIONAL ACCESS FOR THE TUBE FITTINGS ARE REQUIRED.
USED NUTPLATES IN THE BOTTOM SKIN TO ATTACH THE PITOT WITHOUT A REINFORCING PLATE
ON
THE SKIN WITH NO PROBLEMS. MIGHT CONSIDER AN .025 DOUBLER ON THE -6 I AM BUILDING.
IT HAS WORKED VERY NICELY. INDICATIONS ARE REASONABLE AND ARE WITHIN 5 MPH
INDICATED FLYING FORMATION WITH A CERTIFIED SPAM-CAN, FOR WHAT THATS WORTH.
I'M SATISFIED ENOUGH THAT I WILL INSTALL THE HEATED VARIETY ON MY RV-6 IN THE SAME
LOCATION. DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE VARIATIONS BETWEEN PIPER MODELS. MIGHT BE
INTERESTING TO KNOW, ALTHOUGH MORE INFORMATION MIGHT JUST CLOUD THE ISSUE SINCE
MINE
WORKS SO WELL. MY RECOLLECTION IS THAT MINE CAME FROM A 140 OR A WARRIOR.
DAVE GEHLE
RV-4 N63DG
SN 637
menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com wrote:
>
> I just acquired a pitot-static probe off a Piper Cherokee 6. I'd like to hear
> from anyone who is flying with this type of probe where you located the probe
on
> the wing and how accurate it is. Did you have to shim (or grind) the base of
it
> one way or the other to get the alignment right, or did you just bolt it to an
> access panel and mount it flush to the wing?
>
> Also, does anyone know if there's a significant difference between the probes
> used on different models of Pipers (Warrior, Arrow, Cherokee 6, etc.)? Someone
> told me the probes look the same but actually have subtle differences in the
> location of the holes, each one being calibrated for the specific aircraft type.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> RV-8A wings
> Cedar Rapids, IA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 01/12/2000 12:52:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tjantzi(at)netrover.com writes:
<< Purchased at Home Depot (aviation aisle). Dimensions about 3.5" x 5.5" x
1.5". It conveniently fit in between the corrugated channels on the
baggage bulkhead. As I am the "King of Velcro", it is attached with
..... Velcro. It has a small LED that flashes every so often, making it
look like I have a burglar alarm installed. Time will tell if it's
robust enough for aviation use. I will keep the list posted on it's
longevity.
I just got back from doing circuits behind a couple of 152's. I was
fairly slow and the fresh air vents were closed (hey! it's winter here).
I was still getting periodic readings of aprox 14ppm. I'm going to keep
an eye on this and see how I can modify the cabin heat box. It might
just need to be rotated. I can see any CO levels being detrimental to
night flying, when you need all the visual acuity possible. >>
Terry: does this model have a digital readout, or maybe an LED for each of
several ranges of CO concentration?
Cost??
I was all set to order the "other brand" from the Decathalon group, but will
wait til I hear more.
Thanks,
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | More rudder questions |
Well, after a day and a half away from the workshop due to life interfering
with my project, I attacked the rudder again today. Getting those damn
V-blocks cut nicely with a handsaw was a bigger challenge than I had
expected. I managed to muddle through, though.
What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib (R-803
& R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't even
get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the last
two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight holes
in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to suggestions.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Piper Pitot-Static Probe |
Hi Mark
I installed one on my RV3 700 hours ago. It is extremely accurate,
I know this because I've compaired speeds with an RV4 right after
it was used in a CAFE test. I mounted mine just outboard of the
access plate on the bottom of the right wing. It makes for easy
inspections. I did not bother to grind the bottom at all. I used
an .040 backing plate and sealed with clear RTV. I dont know
anything about different models, mine was a generic Piper mast bought
at Oshgosh years ago.
Hope this helps
Tom
RV3
Northern California
menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com wrote:
>
> I just acquired a pitot-static probe off a Piper Cherokee 6. I'd like to hear
> from anyone who is flying with this type of probe where you located the probe
on
> the wing and how accurate it is. Did you have to shim (or grind) the base of
it
> one way or the other to get the alignment right, or did you just bolt it to an
> access panel and mount it flush to the wing?
>
> Also, does anyone know if there's a significant difference between the probes
> used on different models of Pipers (Warrior, Arrow, Cherokee 6, etc.)? Someone
> told me the probes look the same but actually have subtle differences in the
> location of the holes, each one being calibrated for the specific aircraft type.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> RV-8A wings
> Cedar Rapids, IA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: rv6 or rv6a?? |
GUMMOS thanks for telling me that story, I am a
airplane nut which I am sure you can tell by now and I
love war stories and the like got anymore? my ear is a
sponge
thanks
Glenn
--- Gummos wrote:
>
>
> > you somehow ground loop or whatever, it is
> > back to the shop for a rebuild. I for one, when I
> am
> > finished building this great airplane just want to
> fly
> > at this point, and not concern myself with going
> back
> > to the shop for more rework. not saying it wouldnt
> > happen to the trikes either, it surely can, all I
> am
> > saying is that as I am sure you have all heard,
> there
> > are those that have and those that are going to
> > (groundloop) why take the chance?
> > all that said I do not want to start an argument
> of
> > which one is better or not,yes the taildraggers
> look
> > more cool and I am building an 8a, but hey, even
> an F4
> > phantom had a nose wheel. nough said.
> >
> > Glenn Williams
> > 8A wings
> > FT. WORTH, TX.
> > A&P mechanic
>
> Glenn,
>
> In Fact, I have ground looped the F-4C. On my first
> solo ride, i.e. the
> backseater was a student Weapons System Operator, I
> blew a tire at touchdown
> which was about 140 knots. You haven't lived until
> you are going down the
> runway sideways at the speed. The plane was bucking
> like crazy and I was
> able to blow the other tire and the plane straighten
> up and the bucking was
> at least happening with the pointly end going down
> the runway. Does 90
> degrees count???
>
> I also managed to get the plane to spin around on
> the ground at a very slow
> taxi speed. I was the first guy to land after some
> work was done on the
> runway. It had also rained. The sealer and the
> rain turned the runway into
> a ice rink. As I was turning off the end of a
> 12,000 foot runway, the plane
> just went around as nice as can be. I ended up in
> the overrun but was able
> to taxi out. I called the tower and told them that
> the end of the runway
> was bad in time to watch the next plane do the same
> thing. I don't think
> tower believed me until the next guy did it too.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Retired F-4G pilot
> Apple Valley, CA
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
Ken,
I just went through this myself and I have learned a trick with the pop rivet
dimpler that has really helped me in tight situations like that one.
First...you have to bend the flanges out a little so you can get the nail in
place ( this is OK as long as you don't do it so many times that it fatigues the
metal ).
The trick is reduce the size of the nail shaft slightly with your scotch bright
wheel. A few passes around the nail circumference and it slips right in the
hole. No problem. The other thing I found was that after a few uses the nails
get ridges built up on their sides by the pop rivet gun. The scotch bright
wheel takes care of this as well. Just do the shaft of the nail, not the end or
the dimple die will fall off :-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A Empennage ( almost done )
N89JA ( reserved )
Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 01/12/2000 04:18:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: More rudder questions
Well, after a day and a half away from the workshop due to life interfering
with my project, I attacked the rudder again today. Getting those damn
V-blocks cut nicely with a handsaw was a bigger challenge than I had
expected. I managed to muddle through, though.
What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib (R-803
& R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't even
get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the last
two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight holes
in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to suggestions.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | More rudder questions |
Trying to remember back to that time I think I just bent the sheet back
enough
get the nail to go into the hole. Once the dimple is made the nail comes out
easier than when it went in.
Bob
RV8 #423
Working on right wing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 5:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: More rudder questions
Well, after a day and a half away from the workshop due to life interfering
with my project, I attacked the rudder again today. Getting those damn
V-blocks cut nicely with a handsaw was a bigger challenge than I had
expected. I managed to muddle through, though.
What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib (R-803
& R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't even
get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the last
two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight holes
in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to
suggestions.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Piper Pitot-Static Probe |
>
>In a message dated 1/12/2000 2:03:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com writes:
>
>> I just acquired a pitot-static probe off a Piper Cherokee 6. I'd like to
>> hear
>> from anyone who is flying with this type of probe where you located the
>> probe on
>> the wing and how accurate it is.
>
>Mark,
>
>I put mine in the next bay outboard of the 3rd inspection panel approx. 7-8
>inches aft of the main spar. It approximates the location of the on my
>Cherokee. Used an .040 doubler behind it with platenunts for easy service.
>Plumbing is with Nyloseal tubing with a bit of a loop inside the wing so I
>can pull the whole works out and service it if necessary. Yes, I've heard
>there are variations in the design also, affecting primarily the static port
>on the bottom. I'm going to use Van's static system as well so we'll see how
>they compare. Maybe use one as an alternate source if they're close. I used
>the Piper part because I wanted and heated pitot tube and I like the simple,
>rigid design.
>
>-Don
I can confirm that there are several different Piper pitot-static
probes, with different angles on the lower surface. Changing the
angle fine tunes the pressure sensed by the static port, to
compensate for the fact that the pressure underneath a wing is higher
than the ambient pressure. As Don says, the pitot pressure should be
fine for all models.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
Chuck,
What I did, and it's something that you can continue to use. I bought an
Aircraft Log and entered the info for the engine and prop and then started a
log that consisted of the date, the amount of time, accumulated hours and
what operation I performed that day. i.e.: 1-12-00......4:00........Drilled
primed and riveted Stab Spar. My DAR was very happy with this and when it
came time to sign off the aircraft as Airworthy he did it on the last page of
construction. Now I can continue the log as I fly off the time and do the
test flights. I had a photo album that was separate which he looked at and
approved of.
Good luck Chuck,
Don Champagne
N767DC RV6 O-360 C/S
Flying 5 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
IMHO, use a pop rivet. I fabricated a thin bucking bar and bucked these . .
. but, because of the thin skin, I think I made more damage than it was
worth. ALSO . . . you will run into a similar problem on the elevators. A
bucking bar will fit when neither side (top or bottom) has a rivet in
place. The minute you buck a rivet, the available area is cut dramatically
due to the end of this rivet. SO . . . on the elevators do the top side
first, so that, if you can buck it, the second rivet isn't adding to the
small area to work in . . . then if you do have to use a pop rivet it is on
the underside--and only a low down fellow builder would peak under your tail
surfaces to examine what you did. Again, all of this is my humble opinion.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 3:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: More rudder questions
>
>Well, after a day and a half away from the workshop due to life interfering
>with my project, I attacked the rudder again today. Getting those damn
>V-blocks cut nicely with a handsaw was a bigger challenge than I had
>expected. I managed to muddle through, though.
>
>What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib
(R-803
>& R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't
even
>get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the last
>two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight holes
>in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to
suggestions.
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>rudder & elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
>
>
> What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib (R-803
> & R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't even
> get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies.
IIRC, the ribs are .032 and can be (carefully) machine countersunk for these
few holes. the skins aren't really too hard to dimple. If you think about it,
the weight reduction will increase your useful load, and even move the CG
forward slightly for those heavy rear seat passengers ;-)
James Freeman RV-8Q fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
I am in the final stages of developing a software program that is specific
for the RV series of kits. My program will allow you to add, edit and print
reports of your building steps. You can customize it to your preferences and
it will also store pictures. I was hoping to put this out as shareware
within the month.
Rick Osgood
----- Original Message -----
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Construction Log?
>
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of a
> > construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector
will
> > deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4.
>
> We have such an item which is put out by EAA. Look in the Log Book
category of
> the on-line catalog. It gives places to enter sources of your materials,
> control movement specs, CG data, performance specs, equipment lists,
rigging,
> fuel and electrical schematics, and lots of other stuff.
>
> I think its one of the best things EAA has ever put out; and its only $5.
>
> Andy Gold
> Builder's Bookstore
> http://www.buildersbooks.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charlie Oglesby" <coglesby(at)ithink.net> |
Subject: | RV-LIST POLICIES AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS |
Listers,
Spending a lot of time lately scrolling through postings that include the
entire thread on the digest. Just thought a reminder could save everyone
some time and also save a lot of hard drive space in the archives.
RV-LIST POLICIES AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
----- snip ----- snip ----- snip -----
snip ----- snip -----
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting entire original posts has the size of the archive can not be
overstated! DO NOT DO THIS!
----- snip ----- snip ----- snip -----
snip ----- snip -----
Respectfully,
Charlie
http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Archives/RV-List.FAQ.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
I just scotchbrited the point so it would go in easier, put the female
dimple die on the nail, and bent the nail over so I could slip it in
without bending the flange...once the nail is in the hole, i
straightened it out, slipped the male die on, did the dimple and then
cut the nail off...simple, although you do go through nails faster this
way...but hey, i bought a whole box of them at Home Depot!
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Emp Done, working on wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 4:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: More rudder questions
>
> Well, after a day and a half away from the workshop due to life
interfering
> with my project, I attacked the rudder again today. Getting those
damn
> V-blocks cut nicely with a handsaw was a bigger challenge than I had
> expected. I managed to muddle through, though.
>
> What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib
(R-803
> & R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I
can't even
> get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the
last
> two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight
holes
> in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to
suggestions.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> rudder & elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
Ken,
I used the pop rivet dimple dies, the nail, and 2 sets of needlenose vise
grips. Place the dies in place, run the nail from the outside in so the
dies are kept in place, and squeeze the dies on both sides using the vise
grips. Do not start out with the vise grips too tight on the dies, just
tight enough to exert a slight force on each side of the dies. Release the
grips, tighten them with a quarter-turn or so and squeeze them on the dies.
Repeat until the dimple is the proper depth.
When you are ready to rivet in this area, use a set of needlenose vise grips
in the same manner. The teeth of the vise grips must be ground off, though.
Use a piece of scrap to cover the head of the rivet and the skin. Cover the
vise grips in tape to protect the material. The top of one side of the vise
grips might have to be ground into so that the grips fit into the V.
Hope some of this makes sense. Writing this took longer than actually
dimpling the holes. Good luck.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
> What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib
(R-803
> & R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't
even
> get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the last
> two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight
holes
> in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to
suggestions.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
In a message dated 1/12/2000 6:56:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rickjory(at)email.msn.com writes:
> IMHO, use a pop rivet. I fabricated a thin bucking bar and bucked these . .
> . but, because of the thin skin, I think I made more damage than it was
> worth. ALSO . . . you will run into a similar problem on the elevators. A
> bucking bar will fit when neither side (top or bottom) has a rivet in
> place. The minute you buck a rivet, the available area is cut dramatically
> due to the end of this rivet. SO . . . on the elevators do the top side
> first, so that, if you can buck it, the second rivet isn't adding to the
> small area to work in . . . then if you do have to use a pop rivet it is on
> the underside--and only a low down fellow builder would peak under your
tail
> surfaces to examine what you did. Again, all of this is my humble opinion.
> Rick Jory
> Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB fuselage
I will be pop riveting these areas at the very ends of the ribs, but my
original question wasn't in reference to bucking rivets, but to making the
dimples in the first place. Fortunately, a little thought resulted in a
workable solution (funny how often that seems to work! :-) ) I removed the
female portion of the dimple die from the squeezer yoke and squeezed the
dimple into the hole in the yoke. The dimples came out fine.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Rudder solution... |
Thanks to all who responded, both on and off the list, for your solutions. I
wound up removing the female end of the dimple die from my squeezer and
dimpling into the hole in the yoke. It worked fine. I'm sure the other
solutions will come in handy in other situations, though. Particularly the
variety of advice on how to effectively manipulate the nails in a pop rivet
dimple die setup.
Thanks, again!
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
Another way is to use the pop rivet dimples with a very short cut off nail to
hold in alignment. Then use a pair of vise grips to squeeze the dimple dies.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The Von Dane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
In the past I have made dimples in hard to get into areas by using the
male dimple die and the hole in the yoke of the squeezer in place of
the female dimple die... Worked great for me... You can also squeeze
rivets this way if you get the rivet just to the side of the hole in
the yoke...
Bill Von Dane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), waiting for wing kit
http://vondane.tripod.com
I will be pop riveting these areas at the very ends of the ribs, but
my
original question wasn't in reference to bucking rivets, but to making
the
dimples in the first place. Fortunately, a little thought resulted in
a
workable solution (funny how often that seems to work! :-) ) I
removed the
female portion of the dimple die from the squeezer yoke and squeezed
the
dimple into the hole in the yoke. The dimples came out fine.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Restrictor Fittings |
It's ]tme to make or buy restrictor fittings for fuel pressure, oil pressure,
etc lines. I've gone through all of the archival material, and maybe my
brain isn't functioning on both cylinders, but I don't understand how to make
a restrictor fitting using a drilled out rivet. Will someone please walk me
through this step by step?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
> What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib
(R-803
> & R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't
even
> get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the last
> two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight
holes
> in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to
suggestions.
Ken,
You've received many builder's comments on using the pop dimple dies.
Instead I bought the vice grip dimple dies, both 3/32 and 1/8, from Avery. I
have used them many times throughout the my project. This is a bit more
expensive than the pop dies, but they take no time at all and you will end
up using them for many more tight spots where the pop dies may not fit.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, installing instruments, trying to get skirt (canopy skirt that
is) to fit
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | More rudder questions |
If you bend your nail into a u shape, you can get it in there. Then
straighten again to get it in the pop rivet gun. There is a picture on my
'elevators' web page.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kbalch1(at)aol.com
>
> What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each
> rib (R-803
> & R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I
> can't even
> get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are
> the last
> two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs.
> Eight holes
> in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to
> suggestions.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
Chuck,
When I built my first airplane the inspector gave my well kept builders log
no more than a passing glance. Didn't seem to be important to him. When I
obtained my repairman's certificate the FSDO person spent more time with it
but the time keeping aspect was not necessary. This time I am only recording
the dates of when I inspect and finish each major component and the dates of
the EAA TC visits. Also, I do have pictures of the construction.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-LIST POLICIES AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS |
In a message dated 1/12/2000 6:00:04 PM Central Standard Time,
coglesby(at)ithink.net writes:
<< Listers,
Spending a lot of time lately scrolling through postings that include the
entire thread on the digest. Just thought a reminder could save everyone
some time and also save a lot of hard drive space in the archives.
RV-LIST POLICIES AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
----- snip ----- snip ----- snip -----
snip ----- snip -----
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting entire original posts has the size of the archive can not be
overstated! DO NOT DO THIS!
----- snip ----- snip ----- snip -----
snip ----- snip -----
Respectfully,
Charlie
>>
Charliem
hard drives are cheap and large. What a reply takes up on the hard drive is
nothing. I own and insurance agency and we handle more paper work online
then the list produces in aweek each day. And we dont have any proplems
with drive space as type using next to nothing. I would assume the regular
messages are only 5 bytes a piece. Digital pictures on the other hand use
tons of space. For example the desk top i just bought has a 20 meg drive
standard. Even on my home computer I am hard pressed to fill 5 megs and
thats mostly games that fills that much space. LOL.
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket builder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | 40 Amp Wire Size |
I have a stretch of wire going from my alternator breaker to my buss. It
will only be about 2 inches. I know the whole wire size chart thing, but it
doesn't really state what size wire will handle that kind of current. Could
I do it with 12 gauge?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
Subject: | Restrictor Fittings |
Page 229 of Tony Bingelis's book Firewall Forward illustrates this very
well. If you don't have a copy, I'm sure a fellow EAA chapter member, etc.,
could loan it to you. Recommend buying a copy.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> KBoatri144(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 8:01 PM
> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
>
>
> It's ]tme to make or buy restrictor fittings for fuel pressure,
> oil pressure,
> etc lines. I've gone through all of the archival material, and maybe my
> brain isn't functioning on both cylinders, but I don't understand
> how to make
> a restrictor fitting using a drilled out rivet. Will someone
> please walk me
> through this step by step?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> It's ]tme to make or buy restrictor fittings for fuel pressure, oil pressure,
> etc lines. I've gone through all of the archival material, and maybe my
> brain isn't functioning on both cylinders, but I don't understand how to make
> a restrictor fitting using a drilled out rivet. Will someone please walk me
> through this step by step?
For the oil, fuel and Manifold pressure ports I created restrictor fittings. I
started with steel 1/8" pipe to flare (AN822 ?) On the pipe fitting end I then
pressed a -4 rivet in the center. The rivet needs to have a tight fit in the
fitting and mine were a little loose to begin with. I gently squoze them in my
hand squeezer to expand the diameter of the rivet so it would have a very tight
fit in the AN fitting. Press the expanded rivet into the fitting useing a bench
vice. Cut the remaining rivet stem and head flush with the base of the fitting
and final file or sand for a nice finish. Next just drill a small hole (.032) in
the center of the rivet stem. I heard somewhere that restrictor fittings were
red in color so I dabbed some red paint on each fitting for identification.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
"What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib
(R-803
& R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't even
get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the last
two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight holes
in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to
suggestions."
what i did was to cut the nail about 1/4" long then use a no hole
squeezer with the pop rivet dies. used this in alot of places...........
steve dinieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Subject: | Re: 40 Amp Wire Size |
paul, if your gonna draw 40 amp throught that circuit and if you only have
12 ga wire handy just double up or better yet find a piece of 8 ga and
subcribe to my method of overkill.......i put alot of car audio in and have
seen 30 -40 amp loads melt (albeit questionable quailty) 10 ga oxy free
cable under carpets (not in free air).
for any load over about 20 amp i usually will one up the wire size from the
chart and treat them as constant duty.. call me paranoid but i give that emf
plenty of respect....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
What exactly is a restrictor fitting, and what is it's purpose? I have
simply put AN fittings on the pressure ports as mentioned, and ran hose to
the sender. Will this not work without these special fittings?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 8:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
>
>
> It's ]tme to make or buy restrictor fittings for fuel pressure, oil
pressure,
> etc lines. I've gone through all of the archival material, and maybe my
> brain isn't functioning on both cylinders, but I don't understand how to
make
> a restrictor fitting using a drilled out rivet. Will someone please walk
me
> through this step by step?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Speaking of rudder |
Does the RV-6a offer rudder trim? Considering IM still young I haven't had
very much experience but one of then I was in a cross wind (not in an RV)
with a Robin 2-seat aerobatic aircraft. We were heading out to the ocean and
climbing when I noticed I had to hold right rudder and that got very tiring
so that's why I was wondering if RV's offered it or it came with the kit.
Justin & Don
RV-6a (Tail section still!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclops(at)ecom.net> |
Howdy,
Working on the rudder on an RV-6. I clecoed the R602-pp to the rudder
skin and all holes lined up except the top hole on the starboard flange
of the
R602-pp. This hole is 1/8" low. The hole layout on the R602 is
generally 1 1/4" o.c. except at the top hole where it is 1 1/8" on the
starboard side only. I compared the hole layout on both sides of the
skin and they are identical so it appears that the R602 is the one that
is wrong. If I were to drill the hole to match the skin, it's edge would
touch the edge of the pp hole in the flange.
Do I need a new R602-pp ?
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
RV6 #21531
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: R602-pp problem |
Hard to believe this error still exists as I had the same problem in my 6/6A
tail kit I got over 3 years ago! But, the answer I got from Van's at the
time was just build it and the one figure 8 hole won't be a problem. That's
what I did.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, finishing up wing kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclops(at)ecom.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 11:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: R602-pp problem
>
> Howdy,
>
> Working on the rudder on an RV-6. I clecoed the R602-pp to the rudder
> skin and all holes lined up except the top hole on the starboard flange
> of the
> R602-pp. This hole is 1/8" low. The hole layout on the R602 is
> generally 1 1/4" o.c. except at the top hole where it is 1 1/8" on the
> starboard side only. I compared the hole layout on both sides of the
> skin and they are identical so it appears that the R602 is the one that
> is wrong. If I were to drill the hole to match the skin, it's edge would
> touch the edge of the pp hole in the flange.
>
> Do I need a new R602-pp ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Holyoke
> RV6 #21531
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclops(at)ecom.net> |
Subject: | Re: R602-pp problem |
Chris,
Not so strange - I got my tail kit 3 years ago also. I'm just now really getting
going on it.
Ed Holyoke
Chris & Kellie Hand wrote:
>
> Hard to believe this error still exists as I had the same problem in my 6/6A
> tail kit I got over 3 years ago! But, the answer I got from Van's at the
> time was just build it and the one figure 8 hole won't be a problem. That's
> what I did.
> Chris Hand
> RV-6A, finishing up wing kit
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclops(at)ecom.net>
> To: ; RV-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 11:35 PM
> Subject: RV-List: R602-pp problem
>
> >
> > Howdy,
> >
> > Working on the rudder on an RV-6. I clecoed the R602-pp to the rudder
> > skin and all holes lined up except the top hole on the starboard flange
> > of the
> > R602-pp. This hole is 1/8" low. The hole layout on the R602 is
> > generally 1 1/4" o.c. except at the top hole where it is 1 1/8" on the
> > starboard side only. I compared the hole layout on both sides of the
> > skin and they are identical so it appears that the R602 is the one that
> > is wrong. If I were to drill the hole to match the skin, it's edge would
> > touch the edge of the pp hole in the flange.
> >
> > Do I need a new R602-pp ?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Ed Holyoke
> > RV6 #21531
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
N468TC moved under her own power for the first time . Taxi Test have begun.
man am I excited wont be long now.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: R602-pp problem |
Chris & Kellie Hand wrote:
> Hard to believe this error still exists as I had the same problem in my 6/6A
> tail kit I got over 3 years ago!
Yeah, I told Vans too when I found it, way back in Jan 97. At the time,
I was told it was due to jitter. Actually, I thought I'd written this up
in the Bunny's Guide http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny1b.htm but it
wasn't there when I looked just now.
> But, the answer I got from Van's at the
> time was just build it and the one figure 8 hole won't be a problem. That's
> what I did.
Same here.
> Ed Holyoke
> > Do I need a new R602-pp ?
Nope... my guess is that your new one will be identical to this one.
Frank.
RV-6 #24692, skinning fuse fwd top)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Speaking of rudder |
>
>Does the RV-6a offer rudder trim? Considering IM still young I haven't had
>very much experience but one of then I was in a cross wind (not in an RV)
>with a Robin 2-seat aerobatic aircraft. We were heading out to the ocean and
>climbing when I noticed I had to hold right rudder and that got very tiring
>so that's why I was wondering if RV's offered it or it came with the kit.
>
>Justin & Don
>
Hi Justin and/or Don,
Van does not offer a rudder trim option, but some builders make their
own. Some have built a moveable tab in the rudder (like the
elevator, but smaller). Others have built a spring arrangement that
pulls on one rudder cable. Most builders simply build it as is, and
once they are flying they adjust a little fixed tab, or wedge so the
ball will be in the centre in cruise. They then have to use some
right rudder during climb. The RV climbs much better than most
certified aircraft, so you probably wouldn't have to hold the
pressure as long as you did in the Robin.
My advice - if you really enjoy building more than flying, then go
ahead and design a rudder trim system. If you prefer to be flying,
then build the aircraft as designed, and see how you like it once you
start flying. If you still think rudder trim is a good idea, you can
then design and build a system, and take the aircraft out of service
to install it.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | More rudder questions |
Ken,
I made a bucking bar out of scrap steel. The steel was a hunk of broken
snow plow blade about .5 inches thick that I knew I was keeping for some
reason. I used a hack saw and some files to make what looks like a candy
bar with a notch in it at one end. Then I just gently bucked the rivet and
used the rivet gun.
I tried the 3/32 pulled rivets that Van's send with the kit, too. They were
loose, so I laboriously drilled them out and used solid rivets instead. I
think that a pulled rivet could work here, though. Perhaps you could drill
those holes #30 and use the CS4-4 pulled rivets.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A panel wiring
-----Original Message-----
What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on
each rib (R-803
& R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes
and I can't even
get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies.
These are the last
two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both
ribs. Eight holes
in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am
open to suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | More rudder questions |
Sorry folks, upon re-reading it looks like I answered a question that was
not asked. I made the dimples in those end ribs by using a vice grip
dimpler that I bought from Avery's.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 7:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: More rudder questions
Ken,
I made a bucking bar out of scrap steel. The steel was a hunk of broken
snow plow blade about .5 inches thick that I knew I was keeping for some
reason. I used a hack saw and some files to make what looks like a candy
bar with a notch in it at one end. Then I just gently bucked the rivet and
used the rivet gun.
I tried the 3/32 pulled rivets that Van's send with the kit, too. They were
loose, so I laboriously drilled them out and used solid rivets instead. I
think that a pulled rivet could work here, though. Perhaps you could drill
those holes #30 and use the CS4-4 pulled rivets.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A panel wiring
-----Original Message-----
What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on
each rib (R-803
& R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes
and I can't even
get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies.
These are the last
two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both
ribs. Eight holes
in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am
open to suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I was still getting periodic readings of aprox 14ppm. I'm going to keep
> an eye on this and see how I can modify the cabin heat box. It might
> just need to be rotated. I can see any CO levels being detrimental to
> night flying, when you need all the visual acuity possible. >>
>
> Terry: does this model have a digital readout, or maybe an LED for each of
> several ranges of CO concentration?
>
> Cost??
>
> I was all set to order the "other brand" from the Decathalon group, but will
> wait til I hear more.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill B
Yes, it does have a digital readout along with an LED that lights up
when the alarm goes off. Also a push button that tests the alarm, LED
and displays the highest CO readings that the unit encountered since the
last battery installation. I will get the exact model number and post it
tomorrow. It cost me $60CDN ($40US) and the battery was included. I have
aprox 5 hours of flight with it and it continues to live.
Terry Jantzi
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener, ON
--
http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/
http://exn.ca/FlightDeck/Aviators/AviationCockpit.cfm?ID=19991021-52
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Speaking of rudder |
Justin,
I have over 350 hrs on my 6A and find no real reason for a rudder trim
system. It is bad practice to rely on a rudder trim system to center the
ball during cruise. You should either put a wedge on the rudder, or play
with the gear leg fairings to get the plane trimmed for cruise.
From my personal experience, I do not think that you will need to trim
during the climb. My climb profile is as follows:
1. Rotate at around 70 kts, and immediately accelerate to 90 kts by the
time I clear the trees. (Big engine on a little plane :)
2. Initial climb to 1000' is at around 90 KIAS, accerating to over 100 KIAS
passing 1000'. This inital climb will take around 35-40 seconds, maybe
less if you are light. You will not have time to retrim an RV.
3. 1000 to 5-6000' climb at 120 KIAS. During this part of the climb, it
takes very little rudder pressure to center the ball. I find that just
resting my foot on the right pedal keeps the ball centered. The pressure
is MUCH less than your typical span can (152, warrior, etc). I like to
climb at this speed for several reason. First, the cooling on an RV was
designed around an airspeed of 160 kts. Any slower and my CHTs get too
high during an extended climb. Second, there is much better over the nose
visibility for collision avoidance. Lastly, I'm still climbing at over
1500 fpm, no real reason to climb slower.
4. After 5-6000', I'll slow it down to 110 KIAS to keep the climb rate up.
Again almost no rudder pressure.
Hope this helps and good luck with your project.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>Does the RV-6a offer rudder trim? Considering IM still young I haven't had
>very much experience but one of then I was in a cross wind (not in an RV)
>with a Robin 2-seat aerobatic aircraft. We were heading out to the ocean and
>climbing when I noticed I had to hold right rudder and that got very tiring
>so that's why I was wondering if RV's offered it or it came with the kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
The restrictor fittings are used on the oil, fuel and manifold pressure ports to
minimize the loss of fluid in case if the line failed during flight.
This is what I did to fabricate the restrictor fitting for the oil, fuel and manifold
pressure line.
1) First, you want to make sure all AN fittings for oil, fuel and manifold pressure
ports are made of steel.
2) Tap the tube end of the steel fitting with 10-32 tap for full threaded length
of a standard AN bolt. Be sure to oil the tap bit when tapping the fitting.
3) Use a 0.040" - 0.060" diameter drill bit and drill a center hole on an AN bolt
at the threaded end for the full threaded length.
4) Install the AN bolt to the fitting and mark a line where to cut off on the bolt.
5) Cut the threaded section of the bolt and install it on the fitting, grind off
the excess.
6) Voila, you have made yourself a restrictor fitting.
Agian, you use these fittings on the oil, fuel and manifold pressure ports.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A
N747TN reserved
>>> "Paul Besing" 01/13/00 01:05AM >>>
What exactly is a restrictor fitting, and what is it's purpose? I have
simply put AN fittings on the pressure ports as mentioned, and ran hose to
the sender. Will this not work without these special fittings?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 8:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
>
>
> It's ]tme to make or buy restrictor fittings for fuel pressure, oil
pressure,
> etc lines. I've gone through all of the archival material, and maybe my
> brain isn't functioning on both cylinders, but I don't understand how to
make
> a restrictor fitting using a drilled out rivet. Will someone please walk
me
> through this step by step?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
Subject: | Re: Rick Robbins? |
I talked to Rick and got his muff 1 mo. ago. Use the number in the
Yeller pages.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
>What exactly is a restrictor fitting, and what is it's purpose? I have
>simply put AN fittings on the pressure ports as mentioned, and ran hose to
>the sender. Will this not work without these special fittings?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Paul - The way you have it will work fine -UNTILL - that one day when a
fitting breaks. Then you will have a lot of fluid being lost. The restrictor
in the line is to contain most of this fluid loss in case of breakage and
that is the reason that the restrictor should be right on the source of the
fluid pressure. The restriction will not affect the pressure readings as
pressure is the same everywhere in an enclosed chamber.
Doug Murray RV-6 Slowly but surely it's coming together.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
How about all the other fittings? Why is a oil/fuel/man press line so
much more likely to break? Is there anything to the argument that the
restrictor smooths out pressure pulses in the line thus stabilizing
readings?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
Subject: | Re: More rudder questions |
Many suggestions have been proposed so let me add the solution I finally came up
with. I couldn't get the vice grip dimples to fit and I didn't like bending the
nail.
I used the pop rivet dimple and ran the nail through the flange on "both" ribs.
I used some spacers (a nut and a couple of washers) between the back of the
female dimple die and the 2nd flange. This way the nail was straight and the
pop rivet tool worked just fine.
I tried bucking with the back of a claw hammer head too, but the part was pretty
ugly when I got done.
Mike
http://mnellis.jnet.net
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 01/12/2000 04:18 PM
cc:
Subject: RV-List: More rudder questions
Well, after a day and a half away from the workshop due to life interfering
with my project, I attacked the rudder again today. Getting those damn
V-blocks cut nicely with a handsaw was a bigger challenge than I had
expected. I managed to muddle through, though.
What has me stumped at the moment is the last two dimples on each rib (R-803
& R-404). I can't reach them with any of my squeezer yokes and I can't even
get the nail in there to use my pop rivet dimple dies. These are the last
two holes toward the trailing edge on both sides of both ribs. Eight holes
in total. I'm taking a break to mull things over and am open to suggestions.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
rudder & elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jason baker <jjbaker(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Third seat/child's seat |
I have seen a good childs seat in Werner's RV-6a...anybody know his
email so we can send to Scott?
Jason Baker
Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I am considering building a homebuilt, and like what I see of the
> > RV-6/6A.
> > My problem is that I can see my family size going from 2 to 3 by the
> > somewhere about the time I finish building, and I don't want to
> > build a
> > plane that we will immediatly out grow.
> > Has anyone installed a third seat in an RV-6 for carrying one
> > kid? If
> > they have, how big a person could it hold? Van's tells me that the
> > baggage
> > compartment structural limit is 100 lbs regardless of CG. Anyone
> > know why,
> > and if there is a modification that would allow increasing the
> > limit?
> >
> > Dave
> > Flying a Cessna 140 now, looking for faster.
> >
> A few years ago I had a rear seat in my 6A for my son.
> There are currently a few others flying this way (Warner Berry is one
> that come to mind)
> There is quite a bit of info in the RV-list archives so I wont go into
> detail.
>
> I would concur that the 100 lb weight limit is not likely to be a
> problem.
> An RV-6 or 6A baggage area is quite large but it is not extremely tall.
> >From my experience by the time most any child gets to be 50 lbs they will
> be too tall to sit in any seat you would put back there.
>
> My son started riding up front (stole his mom's seat when his sister was
> born) shortly before his 3rd birthday. At that time I think he was just
> over 25 lbs. The seat installation weighted about 14 lbs.
>
> Young children are not very heavy. My son is now almost 5 1/2 and is
> just barely 50 lbs even though he is a bit on the tall side for his age.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
My restrictor fittings were made as descibed below. One thing that I would
like to add is to put the restrictor on the "hose" end of the fitting, not
the engine side. This way, if it ever came loose, it would not fall into
the engine, it would just remain in the hose.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>This is what I did to fabricate the restrictor fitting for the oil, fuel
and manifold pressure line.
>
>1) First, you want to make sure all AN fittings for oil, fuel and manifold
pressure ports are made of steel.
>
>2) Tap the tube end of the steel fitting with 10-32 tap for full threaded
length of a standard AN bolt. Be sure to oil the tap bit when tapping the
fitting.
>
>3) Use a 0.040" - 0.060" diameter drill bit and drill a center hole on an
AN bolt at the threaded end for the full threaded length.
>
>4) Install the AN bolt to the fitting and mark a line where to cut off on
the bolt.
>
>5) Cut the threaded section of the bolt and install it on the fitting,
grind off the excess.
>
>6) Voila, you have made yourself a restrictor fitting.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
Listers,
I'm installing a standard Van's O-360 prop and spinner.
What is the procedure used to align the spinner to eliminate potential
runout?
Do the bulkheads align the spinner sufficiently or does the runout need to
be checked with a pointer on the tip of the spinner?
Thanks for your help,
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
It probably does smooth out the readings.
If we can reduce the number of ways for an engine failure, we have a more
reliable engine. The lines are just as strong as those without the
restrictor, but their failure, or the sensor's failure, would not be
catastrophic.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>How about all the other fittings? Why is a oil/fuel/man press line so
>much more likely to break? Is there anything to the argument that the
>restrictor smooths out pressure pulses in the line thus stabilizing
>readings?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
Subject: | Re: R602-pp problem |
Ed, I bought my empenage in early 97 and had the same problem. I stopped work
on the kit for a couple of years and when I called a couple of months ago about
the problem the guy on the phone basically said that "that's impossible". I
sent vans a picture of the problem. Regardless, after the phone conversation
Vans sent me a new R602 at no charge. There must have been a problem with their
punching machine in early 97 because I think Sam Buchanan had the same problem.
A picture of the problem is on my web site here
http://207.227.137.144/rv-6_page/rudder.htm
Mike
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclops(at)ecom.net> on 01/13/2000 01:35 AM
@SMTP@McGate
cc:
Subject: RV-List: R602-pp problem
Howdy,
Working on the rudder on an RV-6. I clecoed the R602-pp to the rudder
skin and all holes lined up except the top hole on the starboard flange
of the
R602-pp. This hole is 1/8" low. The hole layout on the R602 is
generally 1 1/4" o.c. except at the top hole where it is 1 1/8" on the
starboard side only. I compared the hole layout on both sides of the
skin and they are identical so it appears that the R602 is the one that
is wrong. If I were to drill the hole to match the skin, it's edge would
touch the edge of the pp hole in the flange.
Do I need a new R602-pp ?
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
RV6 #21531
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
When I did my spinner, it came out dead-on-the-money by just putting it on
and clamping it onto the rear bulkhead. The way you check the alignment is
to draw a dot on the center of the tip of the spinner, and use a step ladder
with a piece of stiff wire clamped to it pointing at the dot. Remove the
bottom plugs out of the engine and slowly rotate the prop to make sure the
dot stays centered in relation to the tip of the wire. Make sure the
airframe is not moving/shaking when you are pushing on the prop because it
will make you think that the spinner is off when in fact your whole bird is
shaking.
Bob Japundza
RV-6
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Blanton [mailto:stanb(at)door.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 10:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: C/S spinner
Listers,
I'm installing a standard Van's O-360 prop and spinner.
What is the procedure used to align the spinner to eliminate potential
runout?
Do the bulkheads align the spinner sufficiently or does the runout need to
be checked with a pointer on the tip of the spinner?
Thanks for your help,
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
Stan,
My engine was factory new from Van's and came with a warning that it had
preservative oil installed and to not rotate the crank prior to putting it
into service. When the two bulkheads for the spinner were installed, I
found that they really locked the spinner into one position. So without
rotating the prop to check alignment, I installed the spinner. When the
engine was run, the alignment was perfect, zero wobble. I took a chance by
not checking the runout, and it payed off. If there were wobble, I would
have redone the spinner. For me, the risk was worth it because I did not
upset the preservative oil in that new, expensive engine. My spinner is
the "new style", the one that comes clear and not the older one with the
white gelcoat. Thank you Van for making such a high quality kit. The fit
of the spinner could not have been better.
The initial running of the engine can be seen on my web site. There is a
front shot of the engine running with the spinner on. You can see no blur
at the tip of the spinner, indicating no wobble.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele - N506RV - Flying
http://www.villagenet.com/~scottg/
>I'm installing a standard Van's O-360 prop and spinner.
>
>What is the procedure used to align the spinner to eliminate potential
>runout?
>Do the bulkheads align the spinner sufficiently or does the runout need to
>be checked with a pointer on the tip of the spinner?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Close Quarter Riveting (was Rudder Questions) |
Having trouble getting "pop-rivet" dimple die nail out through rivet holes
in closely spaced skins? Before entry, bend a gentle curve in your nail,
more toward the pointed end. (This, in effect, shortens the nail.) After
feeding it out through the rivet hole hold it with vise grips and straighten
the nail with another pair of pliers so it will go into the "pop-rivet"
puller.
To buck rivets in such close quarters I, like a previous contributer, made a
bar with the following dimensions. 1/2" thick by 2 1/2" wide by 6" long.
Polish one face at least an inch back at the business end and radius and
polish all edges and corners to your liking, and to make the bar more
pleasant to hold when bucking. I found that having at least six inches
length provides both the necessary mass and the surface area for your
(wedged in) palm to maintain control.
Jack Blomgren Red Wing, MN
RV-8 (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
Restrictor fittings are used to minize the fluid circulation in the line where
the flow is not critical and it does not impact the pressure readings since the
flow is not circulated back to the engine. That's the reason why they are used
on the oil, fuel and manifold pressre lines.
These fittings are used as a safety precaution more than functional. You really
don't want to use these fiitings on any other lines because they will restrict
the fluid flow and that are really bad for the engine. The chance for these
restricted lines to fail are as good as any other fluid lines.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A
>>> Joe Waltz 01/13/00 08:48AM >>>
How about all the other fittings? Why is a oil/fuel/man press line so
much more likely to break? Is there anything to the argument that the
restrictor smooths out pressure pulses in the line thus stabilizing
readings?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
Subject: | Restrictor Fittings |
Disposition-Notification-To: "Bryan E. Files"
A restrictor fittling is an orifice fitting with a small hole in it. Its
purpose is to help stop fluctuations in gauges but most important they give
you a little more time when an oil line brakes...the oil doesn't pump
overboard so fast.
***Bryan E. Files***
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
Mailto:bfiles(at)corecom.net
What exactly is a restrictor fitting, and what is it's purpose? I have
simply put AN fittings on the pressure ports as mentioned, and ran hose to
the sender. Will this not work without these special fittings?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
What your doing here is reducing the fuel/oil/manf. pressure loss rate to your
engine if you were to have a hose or downstream component failure. e.g. oil
pumping from a #40 hole (restrictor fitting) compaired to oil being pumped
overboard from a #4 fiting (4/16 i.d.) broken hose...MAY allow you to make the
airfield....your buying time....... eventually all the oil (in this case) will
leave your engine with the restrictor fitting too but you have more time to
react to the situation......
sgesele(at)usa.net on 01/13/2000 10:13:19 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
It probably does smooth out the readings.
If we can reduce the number of ways for an engine failure, we have a more
reliable engine. The lines are just as strong as those without the
restrictor, but their failure, or the sensor's failure, would not be
catastrophic.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>How about all the other fittings? Why is a oil/fuel/man press line so
>much more likely to break? Is there anything to the argument that the
>restrictor smooths out pressure pulses in the line thus stabilizing
>readings?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
Bad idea, if by mistake the hose were to be used for other purposes you would
have more problems. ALSO, the Fitting is the way to do this trick....if your
hose were to fail you could pump unrestricted fuel or oil out your
port..........
sgesele(at)usa.net on 01/13/2000 10:04:47 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
My restrictor fittings were made as descibed below. One thing that I would
like to add is to put the restrictor on the "hose" end of the fitting, not
the engine side. This way, if it ever came loose, it would not fall into
the engine, it would just remain in the hose.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>This is what I did to fabricate the restrictor fitting for the oil, fuel
and manifold pressure line.
>
>1) First, you want to make sure all AN fittings for oil, fuel and manifold
pressure ports are made of steel.
>
>2) Tap the tube end of the steel fitting with 10-32 tap for full threaded
length of a standard AN bolt. Be sure to oil the tap bit when tapping the
fitting.
>
>3) Use a 0.040" - 0.060" diameter drill bit and drill a center hole on an
AN bolt at the threaded end for the full threaded length.
>
>4) Install the AN bolt to the fitting and mark a line where to cut off on
the bolt.
>
>5) Cut the threaded section of the bolt and install it on the fitting,
grind off the excess.
>
>6) Voila, you have made yourself a restrictor fitting.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
> Listers,
>
> I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of a
> construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector
will
> deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4. So far all I
have
> is some scribblings, sketches, Van's plans, etc... If anyone has any
> thoughts on what the FAA guy will expect, or better yet if anyone has a
> construction log that "actually flew" when they got inspected, I would
> appreciate looking at it and/or hearing from you.
>
> Thanks, Chuck
Chuck -
What the FAA inspector will deem acceptable will vary with the inspector.
The guy that inspected my plane never even looked at my log. I think they
are only interested in it if there is any doubt as to whether or not you
actually built the plane yourself.
Scott Sawby N341SS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
One way to make a restrictor fitting is to start with a AN brass or steel
fitting and tap the inside of the flare end. If memory serves me correctly,
the hole is about perfect for a #8 machine screw tap. Next screw in a brass
machine screw and cut off the excess flush with the end of the flare. Drill
out the center with a .040 (or close to it) drill. Mark fitting with red
paint to indicate it is special.
Regards,
Bob Newman
> It's ]tme to make or buy restrictor fittings for fuel pressure, oil
> pressure, etc lines. I've gone through all of the archival material, and
> maybe my brain isn't functioning on both cylinders, but I don't understand
> how to make a restrictor fitting using a drilled out rivet. Will someone
> please walk me through this step by step?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
>
>
>
------- End of forwarded message -------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
I don't think that you understand what I said. There is no modification
made to the hose. A steel fitting, lets take the 45 deg fitting used for
oil pressure, has two sides, one that screws into the engine, and another
that the accepts the Aeroquip hose. The resticted side should be the side
that the Aeroquip hose connects to. This way there is zero chance of the
restrictor coming loose and entering the engine. The original poster
indicated that a restricted fitting could be made by tapping the steel
fitting and putting in an AN3 bolt. I just want to make sure that this
bolt stays out of the engine, where it could do alot of harm.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>
>Bad idea, if by mistake the hose were to be used for other purposes you would
>have more problems. ALSO, the Fitting is the way to do this trick....if your
>hose were to fail you could pump unrestricted fuel or oil out your
>port..........
>
>
>My restrictor fittings were made as descibed below. One thing that I would
>like to add is to put the restrictor on the "hose" end of the fitting, not
>the engine side. This way, if it ever came loose, it would not fall into
>the engine, it would just remain in the hose.
>
>Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
Hi Scott,
You are right. the AN steel fittings are pipe-tube fitting and I use the pipe
end of the fitting to install on the engine and the tube end is to connect to
the hose.
Step 2 stated that tap the tube end (hose end) not the pipe end for the restictor.
I think we are in agreement here and I think that the point you brought out
does help clarify the procedures.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A
>>> ScottGesele 01/13/00 09:04AM >>>
My restrictor fittings were made as descibed below. One thing that I would
like to add is to put the restrictor on the "hose" end of the fitting, not
the engine side. This way, if it ever came loose, it would not fall into
the engine, it would just remain in the hose.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>This is what I did to fabricate the restrictor fitting for the oil, fuel
and manifold pressure line.
>
>1) First, you want to make sure all AN fittings for oil, fuel and manifold
pressure ports are made of steel.
>
>2) Tap the tube end of the steel fitting with 10-32 tap for full threaded
length of a standard AN bolt. Be sure to oil the tap bit when tapping the
fitting.
>
>3) Use a 0.040" - 0.060" diameter drill bit and drill a center hole on an
AN bolt at the threaded end for the full threaded length.
>
>4) Install the AN bolt to the fitting and mark a line where to cut off on
the bolt.
>
>5) Cut the threaded section of the bolt and install it on the fitting,
grind off the excess.
>
>6) Voila, you have made yourself a restrictor fitting.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Airflow Performance unit for sale |
From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
just a few weeks ago i bought the Airflow Performance fuel injection unit
for my 6a. i have been unable to figure out a suitable way to install the
boost pump. since airflow charges a substantial restocking fee, i thought i
would offer it to the list.
(regarding installation, there is a high pressure boost pump package in the
system. on a 6, you can install it on the sidewall, where the facet pump is
shown on the standard plans. but on a 6a, because of the gear mounts, it
wont fit there. one alternative would be to mount it on the floor between
the fuel selector and the battery, but i don't want to do that. i don't know
how you would install it in the other rv models, but lots of folks have done
it.)
so anyway, the entire kit cost me $2676, which includes the boost pump, fuel
filter, fuel injector, flow divider, purge valve, stainless nozzle lines,
teflon main lines with firesleeve and fittings attached, adapters, throttle
cable bracket, mounting hardware, manual, etc.
the only other thing you would need is to get the lycoming high-pressure
engine driven pump, (which is $186 new, or $109 overhauled from aircraft
spruce). you would also need the filtered airbox for the airflow unit, which
vans sells for $99, the same as for all the airboxes.
i am willing to sell the package for $2500. if you are planning to buy one
anyway, at least i can save you a couple of bucks. contact me off list
please, N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net
(by the way, if anyone has a great idea on how to install this in a 6a, i'm
still open to suggestions, in which case i will then have a brand new carb
for sale! )
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | SENCO CO DETECTOR |
WHERE CAN THE SENCO CO DETECTOR BE LOOKED AT AND PURCHASED?
ED...80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
Subject: | GALL'S WIG-WAG FLASHER |
CAN THE FLASHER BE MOUNTED CLOSE TO THE RADIO STACK OR WILL THIS CAUSE
INTERFERANCE. OR SHOULD IT BE MOUNTED IN THE FUSELAGE OR WING.
THANKS
ED...80127
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
Subject: | Instrument panel, canopy skirt questions |
Hi,
I've started building the fwd deck area of my RV-6 tip-up. A couple of
problems:
1. My panel is a little (an 1/8" or so) narrower than what the plans
call out. I'm trying to decide what to do...
(a) Keep the original profile... this means the curve will hit the edge
5.8" up (as per plans), but will only be 19 7/16" wide at this point. I
guess this would leave a gap 1/16" wide at each side between the panel
and skin?
(b) Draw a new curve, starting 4.7" up where the panel is 19.58" wide as
called out in the plans. But that will mean the top skin will have a
somewhat compound curve and may be difficult to fit.
Should I make the .063x3/4x3/4 reinforcing meet the original contour,
which would leave a 1/16" gap in the bottom 4.7" on either side of the
F603. Or can the sides of the canopy (or whatever it is that matchs up
with the top of the panel) be brought in a little to cover the gap?
2. I've been fitting the F621A/B canopy deck. That's going fine, but I'm
unsure about the position of the F621B... I can place it inboard as far
as possible (giving maximum width of the top of the F621B, but reducing
shoulder room by about 1/2" in total) or outboard as far as possible
(flange hard up against the longeron at the fwd and aft ends of the
F621B). I think the extra 1/2" shoulder room would be nice, but is the
narrower top surface of the F621B going to cause difficulties with
fitting the canopy properly?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Cylinder Head Temps. |
Gentlemen,
I putting out a call for help. I have just begun flying my RV6 with an
O-360 and Constant Speed Prop. The cowling baffles and rubber are tight. the
opening is unrestricted and the outlet has only the Veterman exhaust in the
opening.
I'm having a high CHT(50deg higher)on the number 3 cylinder then the
others that are running about the same. The temps are running at 380to390 on
1-2-4 but 430-440 on #3. Now this a brand new engine that I got from Van's it
now has 5 hrs on it and I can't figure what is wrong. My engine
instrumentation is a VM-1000.
One more thing these numbers are at 20 inches MAP and 2300RPM any higher
power and #3 goes to the limits. EGT's are all about the same at all power
settings including #3
Has anyone out there had a similar problem or any ideas as to what I
might do.
Thanks Don
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
Hi Paul,
The need to bring live oil pressure,fuel pressure,etc. into the cockpit area
to be read by their appropriate gauges creates the need for restrictor
fittings.
The purpose of the restrictor fitting is to reduce the volume of flow out of
the monitored source thereby delaying
eventual system failure should a break in the line to the gauge or sender
occur.
It's not hard to imagine the resultant discomfort and excitement that would
arise out of a full size fuel line or hot oil line break in the cockpit
area, or the engine compartment for that matter.
Also the restrictor tends to, and can be designed to damp out fluctuations
that originate from the source. This is done by reducing the size of the
restriction until the (nervous needle) calms down without unduly delaying or
otherwise negatively effecting the desired reading.
With restrictors at sources, and the various pressure lines sized to the
minimum necessary, the job of fitting these lines gets easier and the
overall weight penalty is reduced.
Restrictor fittings can be bought. Most often they are created by blocking
the flow with a plug of some sort then drilling the plug to the required
restriction. As stated by others great care must be taken to assure that the
"plug" will stay where it is put!.
Marking these modified fittings is a must!, painting works. Making them
mechanically different by filing or lathing a groove or soldering or other
wise attaching a tag to them helps to ensure they are used only as intended
in some future repair sequence.
Paul, if you find a way to put the sender directly onto the pressure source
and eliminate a hose or lines in favor of wires do so. If there is doubt in
mind regarding your situation ask some one you trust such as your inspector
etc. Unnecessary lines cost money, take up space and weigh lots. One less
hose three less potential leaks.
I'll leave the description of making a "rivet" restrictor to someone else
that has done it.
bye for now,
Jim in Kelowna BC - rv6a still looking at the box with the canopy in it.
---- Original Message -----
>
> What exactly is a restrictor fitting, and what is it's purpose? I have
> simply put AN fittings on the pressure ports as mentioned, and ran hose to
> the sender. Will this not work without these special fittings?
>RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
> > It's ]tme to make or buy restrictor fittings for fuel pressure, oil
> pressure,
> > etc lines. I've gone through all of the archival material, and maybe my
> > brain isn't functioning on both cylinders, but I don't understand how to
> make
> > a restrictor fitting using a drilled out rivet. Will someone please
walk
> me
> > through this step by step?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temps. |
How much of a temperature variation do you get from full rich to peak lean?
If its less than 100 degrees your engine might be running too lean. Do the
temperatures come down at full throttle (that is when the full rich circuit
comes on-line)?
As far as the temperature spread between cylinders, this is normal for a
carburetor engine at less than full throttle.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC- NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance unit for sale |
Louis: Just a suggestion on the place for the high pressure electric pump.
On my last RV-6 with
Bendix system, I experimented with several locations. I finally located it
on the floor directly forward of the fuel selector. I routed the pressure
line to the firewall just to the right of the battery. Using a bulkhead
fitting to route the fuel to the strainer on the right side of the firewall.
I then made a cover to cover the pump assembly in the center channel in the
cockpit. I flew the RV for 400 hours with perfect service. I think this is
the best place for the pump any way. What Kind of engine are you using? I
might be interested in the carburetor if it is a MA4SPA for an O320. I hope
this helps.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB -N602RV Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: Louis Cappucci <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 2:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance unit for sale
>
> listers,
>
> just a few weeks ago i bought the Airflow Performance fuel injection unit
> for my 6a. i have been unable to figure out a suitable way to install the
> boost pump. since airflow charges a substantial restocking fee, i thought
i
> would offer it to the list.
>
> (regarding installation, there is a high pressure boost pump package in
the
> system. on a 6, you can install it on the sidewall, where the facet pump
is
> shown on the standard plans. but on a 6a, because of the gear mounts, it
> wont fit there. one alternative would be to mount it on the floor between
> the fuel selector and the battery, but i don't want to do that. i don't
know
> how you would install it in the other rv models, but lots of folks have
done
> it.)
>
> so anyway, the entire kit cost me $2676, which includes the boost pump,
fuel
> filter, fuel injector, flow divider, purge valve, stainless nozzle lines,
> teflon main lines with firesleeve and fittings attached, adapters, throttl
e
> cable bracket, mounting hardware, manual, etc.
>
> the only other thing you would need is to get the lycoming high-pressure
> engine driven pump, (which is $186 new, or $109 overhauled from aircraft
> spruce). you would also need the filtered airbox for the airflow unit,
which
> vans sells for $99, the same as for all the airboxes.
>
> i am willing to sell the package for $2500. if you are planning to buy one
> anyway, at least i can save you a couple of bucks. contact me off list
> please, N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net
>
> (by the way, if anyone has a great idea on how to install this in a 6a,
i'm
> still open to suggestions, in which case i will then have a brand new carb
> for sale! )
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a
> mamaroneck, ny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
But if the hose ruptured between the restrictor and the engine you
would dump your oil in short order.
ScottGesele wrote:
>
>
> My restrictor fittings were made as descibed below. One thing that I would
> like to add is to put the restrictor on the "hose" end of the fitting, not
> the engine side. This way, if it ever came loose, it would not fall into
> the engine, it would just remain in the hose.
>
> Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>
> >This is what I did to fabricate the restrictor fitting for the oil, fuel
> and manifold pressure line.
> >
> >1) First, you want to make sure all AN fittings for oil, fuel and manifold
> pressure ports are made of steel.
> >
> >2) Tap the tube end of the steel fitting with 10-32 tap for full threaded
> length of a standard AN bolt. Be sure to oil the tap bit when tapping the
> fitting.
> >
> >3) Use a 0.040" - 0.060" diameter drill bit and drill a center hole on an
> AN bolt at the threaded end for the full threaded length.
> >
> >4) Install the AN bolt to the fitting and mark a line where to cut off on
> the bolt.
> >
> >5) Cut the threaded section of the bolt and install it on the fitting,
> grind off the excess.
> >
> >6) Voila, you have made yourself a restrictor fitting.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
The restrictor fitting is on the engine. As stated in an earlier post, the
fitting has two sides, one pipe thread that screws into the engine and one
tube connection that mates with the Aeroquip hose. It is this tube side
that should have the restricted orifice.
Hope this clears it up.
Scott Gesele N506RV
>But if the hose ruptured between the restrictor and the engine you
>would dump your oil in short order.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
>
>How about all the other fittings? Why is a oil/fuel/man press line so
>much more likely to break?
They are probably less likely to break but are the only ones you can put
restrictors in and every
failure point you prevent improves the overall reliability.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Risan " <support(at)vansaircraft.com> |
Subject: | Re: Instrument panel, canopy skirt questions |
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Copies to: RV List
Subject: Instrument panel, canopy skirt questions
> Hi,
>
> I've started building the fwd deck area of my RV-6 tip-up. A couple of
> problems:
>
> 1. My panel is a little (an 1/8" or so) narrower than what the plans
> call out. I'm trying to decide what to do...
>
> (a) Keep the original profile... this means the curve will hit the edge
> 5.8" up (as per plans), but will only be 19 7/16" wide at this point. I
> guess this would leave a gap 1/16" wide at each side between the panel
> and skin?
WOULD LEAVE IT LIKE THIS.
>
> (b) Draw a new curve, starting 4.7" up where the panel is 19.58" wide as
> called out in the plans. But that will mean the top skin will have a
> somewhat compound curve and may be difficult to fit.
>
> Should I make the .063x3/4x3/4 reinforcing meet the original contour,
> which would leave a 1/16" gap in the bottom 4.7" on either side of the
> F603. Or can the sides of the canopy (or whatever it is that matchs up
> with the top of the panel) be brought in a little to cover the gap?
YES, GO WITH THE ORIGINAL CONTOUR. .063 GAP IS NOT MUCH AND CAN BE
WORKED WITH EASILY.
>
> 2. I've been fitting the F621A/B canopy deck. That's going fine, but I'm
> unsure about the position of the F621B... I can place it inboard as far
> as possible (giving maximum width of the top of the F621B, but reducing
> shoulder room by about 1/2" in total) or outboard as far as possible
> (flange hard up against the longeron at the fwd and aft ends of the
> F621B). I think the extra 1/2" shoulder room would be nice, but is the
> narrower top surface of the F621B going to cause difficulties with
> fitting the canopy properly?
THE POSITION OF THE FORWARD END OF THE 621B AND AFT END OF THE 621A
ARE BOTH DETERMINED BY THE F-604E AS THEY WILL BE TRIMMED AND THE
VERTICAL FLANGE OF BOTH WILL RIVET TO THE WEB OF THE 604E.
THE AFT END OF 621B SHOULD BE TRIMMED AND FIT ACCORDING TO THE
DIMENSIONS ON DRAWING 30 LOWER RIGHT. THIS DRAWING ALSO HAS
DIMENSIONS TO TRIM THE FORWARD END OF THE 621B AND AFT END OF THE
621A.
>
> Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance unit for sale |
>snip
i have been unable to figure out a suitable way to install the
>boost pump. since airflow charges a substantial restocking fee, i thought i
>would offer it to the list.
>snip
>
>(by the way, if anyone has a great idea on how to install this in a 6a, i'm
>still open to suggestions, in which case i will then have a brand new carb
>for sale! )
>
>thanks,
>louis cappucci
>rv-6a
>mamaroneck, ny
>
>snip
I installed the Aiflow Performance pump package directly under my fuel
selector(Andair) on my RV-6. I built sort of a mini "battery box" directly
in front of the spar with the selector valve on the top and the boost pump
enclosed within. I can provide details if you want.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
Might want to check out this sight
http://www.vvm.com/~tromain/company/3shome.htm
J D Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Construction Log?
>
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of a
> > construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector
> will
> > deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4. So far all I
> have
> > is some scribblings, sketches, Van's plans, etc... If anyone has any
> > thoughts on what the FAA guy will expect, or better yet if anyone has a
> > construction log that "actually flew" when they got inspected, I would
> > appreciate looking at it and/or hearing from you.
> >
> > Thanks, Chuck
>
>
> Chuck -
>
> What the FAA inspector will deem acceptable will vary with the inspector.
> The guy that inspected my plane never even looked at my log. I think
they
> are only interested in it if there is any doubt as to whether or not you
> actually built the plane yourself.
>
> Scott Sawby N341SS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Close, W. James" <jclose(at)mtl.marconi.ca> |
I am planning to do my own painting and and am contemplating using the HVLP
Citation paint system from Fastech. Does anyone have any experience (good
or bad) with this system?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
Also, to supplement the restrictors, Autometer (as in Hot Rod Stuff) makes a
diaphragm that is mounted forward of the firewall. Gasoline to there and on
the other side, to inside the cockpit, automotive antifreeze. I hate
gasoline in the cockpit. Plug Summit Racing into your search engine and if
they ain't got it, The world ain't turning.
J D Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> The need to bring live oil pressure,fuel pressure,etc. into the cockpit
area
> to be read by their appropriate gauges creates the need for restrictor
> fittings.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temps. |
--- AV8TURDON(at)aol.com wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> I'm having a high CHT(50deg higher)on the number
> 3 cylinder then the
> others that are running about the same. The temps
> are running at 380to390 on
> 1-2-4 but 430-440 on #3. Now this a brand new engine
> that I got from Van's it
> now has 5 hrs on it and I can't figure what is
> wrong. My engine
> instrumentation is a VM-1000.
>
> Has anyone out there had a similar problem or
> any ideas as to what I
> might do.
>
> Thanks Don
Don:
Yes I have seen it on my O-320 Constant Speed Prop
RV-6. I was picking up noise on the #3 CHT Probe. I
first moved the #1 Probe with its wire to the #3 and
left #3 tied off under the cowl. #3 CHT now read
normal. Moved the probes back and same thing. I
rerouted the #3 wire and the problem went away.
At the very least, this will tell you if the problem
is real or not.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CTonnini(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance unit for sale |
Louis i hevi airflow in mi air plane for five years call me ithick ican help
you Claudio rv4 purple pasion 732 5916942
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temps. |
In a message dated 1/13/00 7:05:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> Yes I have seen it on my O-320 Constant Speed Prop
> RV-6. I was picking up noise on the #3 CHT Probe. I
> first moved the #1 Probe with its wire to the #3 and
> left #3 tied off under the cowl. #3 CHT now read
> normal. Moved the probes back and same thing. I
> rerouted the #3 wire and the problem went away.
>
> At the very least, this will tell you if the problem
> is real or not.
>
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>
Gary,
Your response caught my attention. I bought a pre-wired 4 position rotary
switch by Westach to selectively feed the EGT and CHT probes to the RMI
uMonitor. The wires are not sheilded. RMI says to sheild at least the
section inside the cabin. I thought that this was overkill and since Westach
prewired with unshielded, that I'd be OK. Maybe not. Any other experiences
out there?
Brian Eckstein
6A panel, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: prop hub to fit cowl |
since I have finnished fitting my cowl, i have the back half of a hartzell
c/s prop that i mounted the spinner back plate and a spacer to so i would
not have to work around the blades. if anyone in the dallas area wants it
to fit their cowl send me and email at hsierra(at)flash.net an i will tell you
were to come get it.
R. Burns
RV-4 s/n 3524 N82RB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance unit for sale |
Louis, I installed the Airflow Perf. electric boost pump on the forward
side of the main spar, just below the pilot's knees. This is a on a 6A.
The plumbing gets a little crowded there, but very do-able. I built a
bracket to which the pump mounts, which in turn mounts under a few of the
spar bolts. I did not use Van's fuel selector mount, but built my own (no
big deal, just took a few tries with thin aluminum flashing, then bent one
out of .032). I will scan a picture and email it to you Louis, and maybe
someone on the list can put it on their website also.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A, N66AP reserved
> listers,
>
> just a few weeks ago i bought the Airflow Performance fuel injection unit
> for my 6a. i have been unable to figure out a suitable way to install the
> boost pump. since airflow charges a substantial restocking fee, i thought
i
> would offer it to the list.
>
> (regarding installation, there is a high pressure boost pump package in
the
> system. on a 6, you can install it on the sidewall, where the facet pump
is
> shown on the standard plans. but on a 6a, because of the gear mounts, it
> wont fit there. one alternative would be to mount it on the floor between
> the fuel selector and the battery, but i don't want to do that. i don't
know
> how you would install it in the other rv models, but lots of folks have
done
> it.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temps. |
I would suggest swapping the ssnders to a different cylinder.
Ollie ,flying RV6-A, n795LW ,Tampa
----- Original Message -----
From: <AV8TURDON(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 3:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cylinder Head Temps.
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I putting out a call for help.
>
> Thanks Don
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | RV-8 Phantom parts list |
This is a quick note on the Phantom Parts list, just in case someone
else hasn't reeled this in yet.
There is a Phantom Parts List at the end of the packing list on the
RV-8 fuselage kit (it may have been there on earlier kits, I didn't
notice it). It lists the parts that you have to make yourself, and
what size and type of material it is made from. I didn't pay much
notice to this until last night, as the plans already tell you what
material to make a part from.
Well, I looked all over my shop for the angle to make the F-857B rear
seat belt anchors from. Finally, I looked at the Phantom Parts List,
and noted that it listed a larger size angle as the material than the
plans do. I've got lots of that particular angle. Whew! I looked
down the list to see what other parts are made from that size angle,
and only found the F-849, which I had already made. So, that tells
me that I've got more than enough material.
Happy building,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
jim jewell wrote:
> Paul, if you find a way to put the sender directly onto the pressure source
> and eliminate a hose or lines in favor of wires do so. If there is doubt in
> mind regarding your situation ask some one you trust such as your inspector
> etc. Unnecessary lines cost money, take up space and weigh lots. One less
> hose three less potential leaks.
As as has been stated by Van's and many on the list, mounting the sensor
directly to the engine fitting is not a good idea. There have been cases
where the weight of the sensor caused the fitting to fail with
catastrophic loss of engine fluids that you would just as soon not lose.
Sensors should be installed with restrictors and hoses so they will be
isolated from engine vibration. Good, pressure-tested hoses should be
reliable for many years.
The advice to ask a qualified inspector about such matters is indeed
good advice. :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 75 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: GALL'S WIG-WAG FLASHER |
SALNED71(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> CAN THE FLASHER BE MOUNTED CLOSE TO THE RADIO STACK OR WILL THIS CAUSE
> INTERFERANCE. OR SHOULD IT BE MOUNTED IN THE FUSELAGE OR WING.
>
> THANKS
> ED...80127
I am not sure if this would be the case in all situations, but the
Gall's flasher and the avionics are getting along just fine in my RV-6.
The flasher is mounted behind the panel about four inches from the
radio.
By the way, the flasher is a real attention-getter at the Saturday
morning pancake breakfasts!
Sam Buchanan (Is that an ambulance on final???)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
Sorry about the link this is correct
http://www.vvm.com/~tormain/Company/3shome.htm
J D Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: "JohnHeath" <jdheath(at)premierweb.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 1999 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Construction Log?
>
> Might want to check out this sight
> http://www.vvm.com/~tromain/company/3shome.htm
> J D Heath
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 11:27 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Construction Log?
>
>
> >
> >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > I was wondering if anyone has a good (or even half as-) example of
a
> > > construction log. I am looking for something that the FAA inspector
> > will
> > > deem acceptable when & if I ever get done with my RV-4. So far all I
> > have
> > > is some scribblings, sketches, Van's plans, etc... If anyone has
any
> > > thoughts on what the FAA guy will expect, or better yet if anyone has
a
> > > construction log that "actually flew" when they got inspected, I would
> > > appreciate looking at it and/or hearing from you.
> > >
> > > Thanks, Chuck
> >
> >
> > Chuck -
> >
> > What the FAA inspector will deem acceptable will vary with the
inspector.
> > The guy that inspected my plane never even looked at my log. I think
> they
> > are only interested in it if there is any doubt as to whether or not you
> > actually built the plane yourself.
> >
> > Scott Sawby N341SS
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
Joe Waltz wrote:
>
> How about all the other fittings? Why is a oil/fuel/man press line so
> much more likely to break? Is there anything to the argument that the
> restrictor smooths out pressure pulses in the line thus stabilizing
> readings?
Traditionally oil, fuel and MP lines have been copper tube. The failure
rate on copper is high, hence the reason for restrictor fittings. If the
lines are AE701 type hose the failure rate is low but I would still
suggest restrictor fittings.
Gary Zilik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance unit for sale |
From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
Lou, did I have the Airflow Performance boost pump and filter installed
when you were
here?
If not, you may want to look at my installation or give me a call, and
I'll try to describe
where and how I I installed mine.
My phone number is 227- 8527.
Regards,
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temps. |
Identical findings on my O-360 with CS prop. #3 ran 50F higher than
1,2, and 4. I put the cylinder blocks (per the baffle plans) in front of
number one, and now 1 and 3 are BOTH 50 degrees higher than 2 and
4. I'm going to try that CHT probe swap idea and see if it's just
instrument error on number 3.
I'm using the EIS4000, which reads all 4 simultaneously.
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Clevelands Strobe lights |
Has anyone bought and used the strobes Cleveland sells?
How do they compare to Whelen?
Thanks
John L.Danielson
Wings 85%, fuselage coming in Feb.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Clevelands Strobe lights |
You are referring to the AeroFlash Strobes. They are physically the same
size, but are not quite as bright. They are the same brightness as earlier
model Whelen's, which are the ones that we mostly see in the skies. The
power supplies are dual supplies, and are very small and light. It appears
that they are very high quality, especially for the money. I have a set
with the power supplies mounted in the wings. Have not yet flown with them,
but have seen them. They are plenty bright for our birds, and they are half
as expensive to boot.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 9:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Clevelands Strobe lights
>
> Has anyone bought and used the strobes Cleveland sells?
> How do they compare to Whelen?
> Thanks
> John L.Danielson
> Wings 85%, fuselage coming in Feb.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
Subject: | Cylinder Head Temps. |
Remember one thing gentlemen... Your are looking at your 1940's technology
engine with a 1999 technology gauge. Remember when the airplanes you flew
had only 1 CHT or maybe not one at all.. Use these indicators for
reference.. I would not be too concerned as long as the parameters are
within the required range.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2000 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Head Temps.
Identical findings on my O-360 with CS prop. #3 ran 50F higher than
1,2, and 4. I put the cylinder blocks (per the baffle plans) in front of
number one, and now 1 and 3 are BOTH 50 degrees higher than 2 and
4. I'm going to try that CHT probe swap idea and see if it's just
instrument error on number 3.
I'm using the EIS4000, which reads all 4 simultaneously.
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Restrictor Fittings |
>The need to bring live oil pressure,fuel pressure,etc. into the cockpit area
>to be read by their appropriate gauges creates the need for restrictor
>fittings.
A good reason to use electric senders for fuel and oil pressure and to
use an electric primer relay for engine priming. This avoids extra lines
carrying flamable fluids into the cockpit. You still need to use
restrictor fittings, of course.
>Paul, if you find a way to put the sender directly onto the pressure source
>and eliminate a hose or lines in favor of wires do so.
You should not mount an electric sender to the source, that is the
engine. Too much danger that they will break off. Use flexible hose from
the engine fittings to the firewall mounted sender units.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
January 08, 2000 - January 13, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hs