RV-Archive.digest.vol-ht
January 13, 2000 - January 19, 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temps. |
In a message dated 1/13/00 12:56:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
AV8TURDON(at)aol.com writes:
<< I'm having a high CHT(50deg higher)on the number 3 cylinder then the
others that are running about the same. The temps are running at 380to390 on
1-2-4 but 430-440 on #3. Now this a brand new engine that I got from Van's
it
now has 5 hrs on it and I can't figure what is wrong. My engine
instrumentation is a VM-1000. >>
Did you install the air dams to the baffles in front of cylinders 1 and 2?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland's Strobe lights |
In a message dated 1/13/00 8:45:08 PM Pacific Standard Time,
JDaniel343(at)aol.com writes:
<< Has anyone bought and used the strobes Cleaveland sells?
How do they compare to Whelen? >>
I believe that Buzz sells the Aeroflash units. They are not as bright, but
search the archives (on Aeroflash) for the full story on these.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CROWELL,JEFF (HP-Boise,ex1)" <jeff_crowell(at)hp.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 01/13/00 |
Hi, Scott (and all).
I'm curious-why do you say it is "bad practice" to use rudder trim to hold a
centered ball? I can see why you'd say you don't think rudder trim is
necessary, but that ain't the same thing.
Jeff
buying tools
From: ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Speaking of rudder
Justin,
I have over 350 hrs on my 6A and find no real reason for a
rudder trim
system. It is bad practice to rely on a rudder trim system
to center the
ball during cruise. You should either put a wedge on the
rudder, or play
with the gear leg fairings to get the plane trimmed for
cruise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 01/13/00 |
Jeff,
For the same reason Vans says to not use the spring loaded aileron trim to
keep a balanced load level. IMHO, the aircraft should be rigged to fly
straight without the use of trim. Trim should be used to balance out any
uneven load, fuel inbalance, different CG loading, engine failure in a
twin, extended climb in a span can (there are no extended climbs in an RV
:) . My post had said that it was bad practice to hold the ball centered
during cruise as the airplane should be rigged to fly straight in cruise.
All this is just my humble opinion.
Hope this clears things up.
Scott Gesele - N506RV - Flying
>Hi, Scott (and all).
>
>I'm curious-why do you say it is "bad practice" to use rudder trim to hold a
>centered ball? I can see why you'd say you don't think rudder trim is
>necessary, but that ain't the same thing.
>
>
>Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: 01/13/00 |
Because many times you are compensating for aileron out of trim by using the
rudder and this slows down the airplane, creates un-necessary drag.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: CROWELL,JEFF (HP-Boise,ex1) <jeff_crowell(at)hp.com>
Date: Friday, January 14, 2000 9:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 01/13/00
>
>Hi, Scott (and all).
>
>I'm curious-why do you say it is "bad practice" to use rudder trim to hold
a
>centered ball? I can see why you'd say you don't think rudder trim is
>necessary, but that ain't the same thing.
>
>
>Jeff
>buying tools
>
>
> From: ScottGesele <sgesele(at)usa.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Speaking of rudder
>
>
> Justin,
>
> I have over 350 hrs on my 6A and find no real reason for a
>rudder trim
> system. It is bad practice to rely on a rudder trim system
>to center the
> ball during cruise. You should either put a wedge on the
>rudder, or play
> with the gear leg fairings to get the plane trimmed for
>cruise.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temps. |
I am confused on the air dam? Are these the inter-cylinder curved pieces ?
Vanremog(at)aol.com on 01/13/2000 11:52:37 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Head Temps.
In a message dated 1/13/00 12:56:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
AV8TURDON(at)aol.com writes:
<< I'm having a high CHT(50deg higher)on the number 3 cylinder then the
others that are running about the same. The temps are running at 380to390 on
1-2-4 but 430-440 on #3. Now this a brand new engine that I got from Van's
it
now has 5 hrs on it and I can't figure what is wrong. My engine
instrumentation is a VM-1000. >>
Did you install the air dams to the baffles in front of cylinders 1 and 2?
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Restrictor Fittings |
____
From: "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
Listers,
In addition to the info list below, be sure to get all the air out of the
line oil/fuel line between the restrictor and the pressure sensor. Failure
to do so will result in very slow changing indicated pressure readings,
especially oil pressure when the oil is cold. In some cases it might be wise
to fill the line up with Marval Mystry Oil or some other light lubricant.
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
Subject: Re: RV-List: Restrictor Fittings
>What exactly is a restrictor fitting, and what is it's purpose? I
have
>simply put AN fittings on the pressure ports as mentioned, and ran
hose to
>the sender. Will this not work without these special fittings?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Paul - The way you have it will work fine -UNTILL - that one day
when a
fitting breaks. Then you will have a lot of fluid being lost. The
restrictor
in the line is to contain most of this fluid loss in case of
breakage and
that is the reason that the restrictor should be right on the source
of the
fluid pressure. The restriction will not affect the pressure
readings as
pressure is the same everywhere in an enclosed chamber.
Doug Murray RV-6 Slowly but surely it's coming together.
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder Head Temps. |
No, they are the flat pieces in front of the # 1 and 2 cylinder at the air
inlet area.
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Head Temps.
>Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 11:55:29 -0500
>
>
>I am confused on the air dam? Are these the inter-cylinder curved pieces
>?
>
>
>Vanremog(at)aol.com on 01/13/2000 11:52:37 PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cylinder Head Temps.
>
>
>In a message dated 1/13/00 12:56:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>AV8TURDON(at)aol.com writes:
>
><< I'm having a high CHT(50deg higher)on the number 3 cylinder then the
> others that are running about the same. The temps are running at 380to390
>on
> 1-2-4 but 430-440 on #3. Now this a brand new engine that I got from
>Van's
>it
> now has 5 hrs on it and I can't figure what is wrong. My engine
> instrumentation is a VM-1000. >>
>
>Did you install the air dams to the baffles in front of cylinders 1 and 2?
>
>-GV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | looking for rv-4 in construction for-sale |
want to buy an rv-4 that is partly built.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
| Subject: | N58RV Settlement |
Not much detail here but it looks like the accident of RV-8 N58RV has been put
to bed for the time being.
http://vansaircraft.com/public/what-new.htm#011300
Mike
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parr <rrparr(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for rv-4 in construction for-sale |
>
>want to buy an rv-4 that is partly built.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Construction Log? |
Based upon my early experience as a engineering construction inspector, I'm
using a bound journal book with numbered pages. This type of arrangement for
recording construction progress has been found acceptable by the courts in
cases regarding dispute between the owner of a project and the contractor,
where a loose-leaf type record is not. Hopefully you will never have legal
dispute between yourself as owner and yourself as contractor, but I believe
it will carry a litle more weight with the FAA, should there be any question
as to who is the actual builder. Entries are in ink, using different pens
over time, and even handwriting will vary some. All evidence that someone did
not create it at one sitting. Since the FAA is cracking down on the
professional shop built experimentals (rightly so), a good record with photos
is more important now than before. Andy Johnson, -8 wing (left coming out of
the jig tomorrow)
________________________________________________________________________________
Do most builders attach the fiberglass tips to their various empennage pieces
before going on to the wing kit, or later on in conjunction with final
assembly?
I guess I'm just looking for a consensus that will justify my putting it off
for now, as I'm absolutely dreading the fiberglass work. :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
The fiberglass tips really are not that bad. All you need to do is drill
and cleko them on. Line them up (like the HS and elevator ones) so they
match up.
Then cut to the proper length for a good fit. As far as glassing them goes,
I just taped a piece of foam to the end of the tip. Then put several thin
strips of glass inside, let it cure, fill and sand. I thought the tips were
one of the easier things to do as far as fiberglass is concerned.
I guess it doesn't matter when you do them..they have to be done, so get
them out of the way now if you like.
There is some pictures of this on my website under the empennage section.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 4:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
>
> Do most builders attach the fiberglass tips to their various empennage
pieces
> before going on to the wing kit, or later on in conjunction with final
> assembly?
>
> I guess I'm just looking for a consensus that will justify my putting it
off
> for now, as I'm absolutely dreading the fiberglass work. :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
>
> Do most builders attach the fiberglass tips to their various empennage pieces
> before going on to the wing kit, or later on in conjunction with final
> assembly?
I fit mine but did not attach them.
>
>
> I guess I'm just looking for a consensus that will justify my putting it off
> for now, as I'm absolutely dreading the fiberglass work. :-)
I would go for the fitting of the FG pieces as you go. Once the end is near I
really was glad that my FG parts had been fitted. All I had to do was rivet them
in place.
Gary Zilik
>
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> elevators
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
>....... I'm absolutely dreading the fiberglass work. :-)
I put off many tasks till near the end now I am stuck with all of them.
I was dreading fiberglass too - still do a bit. I think this is because I
have had no experience with it and was going to be doing my first practice
'on stage'. I did the tips and the wingtip lights and modified the rudder
bottom and now I am going to make something from scratch with the help of
an experience fiberglass kit builders help. Surely there is someone in
Mass with frp experience willing to help you break the ice.
I even seem to be unwilling to waste some resin and cloth. Now, I promise
to waste some and learn!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
Gary,
I did mine as I was waiting for other kits to arrive so that by the time my
finish kit was delivered I have all the wing & empenage fiberglass finished.
If you plan ahead and are allways working on something the project will move
along at a steady pace.
Mark Steffensen
8A Finish, Engine & Avionics
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
>
>
> >
> > Do most builders attach the fiberglass tips to their various empennage
pieces
> > before going on to the wing kit, or later on in conjunction with final
> > assembly?
>
> I fit mine but did not attach them.
>
> >
> >
> > I guess I'm just looking for a consensus that will justify my putting it
off
> > for now, as I'm absolutely dreading the fiberglass work. :-)
>
> I would go for the fitting of the FG pieces as you go. Once the end is
near I
> really was glad that my FG parts had been fitted. All I had to do was
rivet them
> in place.
>
> Gary Zilik
>
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> > Ken Balch
> > Ashland, MA
> > RV-8 #81125
> > elevators
> >
> > _
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I deferred the tips until late and would NOT do it again. I did the
empennage tips, wing tips and tail fairing all together and it seemed I was
up to my a.. in fiberglass for way too long. In hindsight I should have done
it in small doses.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) 90% done, 90% to go
> Do most builders attach the fiberglass tips to their various
> empennage pieces
> before going on to the wing kit, or later on in conjunction with final
> assembly?
>
> I guess I'm just looking for a consensus that will justify my
> putting it off
> for now, as I'm absolutely dreading the fiberglass work. :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clevelands Strobe lights |
I've got them mounted on my plane and they work just fine. I have the
packs mounted on the outboard ribs. They're alot less $ than the Whelen
don't put out as bright of a light. I think appearance wise and size wise
they are the same.
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Has anyone bought and used the strobes Cleveland sells?
>How do they compare to Whelen?
>Thanks
>John L.Danielson
>Wings 85%, fuselage coming in Feb.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Third seat/child's seat |
Jason,
Check Werner's site for contact info. (aeroengraving.com)
Werner's did my panel engraving and I LIKE IT!!
John Hughes, RV-6, N164JH
,So Cal
"Gettin There" Oshkosh 2000
or bust!!
jason baker wrote:
>
> I have seen a good childs seat in Werner's RV-6a...anybody know his
> email so we can send to Scott?
>
> Jason Baker
>
> Scott R McDaniels wrote:
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I am considering building a homebuilt, and like what I see of the
> > > RV-6/6A.
> > > My problem is that I can see my family size going from 2 to 3 by the
> > > somewhere about the time I finish building, and I don't want to
> > > build a
> > > plane that we will immediatly out grow.
> > > Has anyone installed a third seat in an RV-6 for carrying one
> > > kid? If
> > > they have, how big a person could it hold? Van's tells me that the
> > > baggage
> > > compartment structural limit is 100 lbs regardless of CG. Anyone
> > > know why,
> > > and if there is a modification that would allow increasing the
> > > limit?
> > >
> > > Dave
> > > Flying a Cessna 140 now, looking for faster.
> > >
> > A few years ago I had a rear seat in my 6A for my son.
> > There are currently a few others flying this way (Warner Berry is one
> > that come to mind)
> > There is quite a bit of info in the RV-list archives so I wont go into
> > detail.
> >
> > I would concur that the 100 lb weight limit is not likely to be a
> > problem.
> > An RV-6 or 6A baggage area is quite large but it is not extremely tall.
> > >From my experience by the time most any child gets to be 50 lbs they will
> > be too tall to sit in any seat you would put back there.
> >
> > My son started riding up front (stole his mom's seat when his sister was
> > born) shortly before his 3rd birthday. At that time I think he was just
> > over 25 lbs. The seat installation weighted about 14 lbs.
> >
> > Young children are not very heavy. My son is now almost 5 1/2 and is
> > just barely 50 lbs even though he is a bit on the tall side for his age.
> >
> > Scott McDaniels
> > North Plains, OR
> > These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> > reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Hello,
We are trying to improve the ventilation on a mid-wing airplane (non-RV). I
am considering the installation of a "Van's NACA ventilation system" as it
seems to work very well in the RV-4. The only flat surface to mount it on
is just in front of the wing leading edge. Does anyone know what the
pressure gradient is in the location on a typical aircraft (If there is
such a thing). Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks
C.H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Naca air vent |
the naca scoop is based on bournoulees (I didnt spell
that right) principle, i.e. convergent divergent if
you place the scoop on the leading edge you will not
need the naca scoop, but just a hole in the edge
covered by a screen. The ideal place for a naca scoop
is on the side of the fuselage or under the wing, just
in front of the main spar. The ideal for the scoop is
to basically pull air from a flat surface at a
relatively low pressure area and through the
bournoulees principle as stated above will transmit
air to you at a relatively high velocity.
Glenn Williams
A&P mech.
Ft. Worth, Tx.
--- christopher huey wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> We are trying to improve the ventilation on a
> mid-wing airplane (non-RV). I
> am considering the installation of a "Van's NACA
> ventilation system" as it
> seems to work very well in the RV-4. The only flat
> surface to mount it on
> is just in front of the wing leading edge. Does
> anyone know what the
> pressure gradient is in the location on a typical
> aircraft (If there is
> such a thing). Any insight would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> C.H.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Naca air vent |
Thanks, Glenn
I guess I was not clear - the only flat area on the fuselage is just in
front of the wing. I am not sure if the wing being in such close proximity
will destroy the effectiveness of the vent. I would hate to cut the hole
and then find out it does not work in that location.
C.H.
----------
> From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Naca air vent
> Date: Friday, January 14, 2000 10:02 PM
>
>
> the naca scoop is based on bournoulees (I didnt spell
> that right) principle, i.e. convergent divergent if
> you place the scoop on the leading edge you will not
> need the naca scoop, but just a hole in the edge
> covered by a screen. The ideal place for a naca scoop
> is on the side of the fuselage or under the wing, just
> in front of the main spar. The ideal for the scoop is
> to basically pull air from a flat surface at a
> relatively low pressure area and through the
> bournoulees principle as stated above will transmit
> air to you at a relatively high velocity.
>
> Glenn Williams
> A&P mech.
> Ft. Worth, Tx.
>
> --- christopher huey wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > We are trying to improve the ventilation on a
> > mid-wing airplane (non-RV). I
> > am considering the installation of a "Van's NACA
> > ventilation system" as it
> > seems to work very well in the RV-4. The only flat
> > surface to mount it on
> > is just in front of the wing leading edge. Does
> > anyone know what the
> > pressure gradient is in the location on a typical
> > aircraft (If there is
> > such a thing). Any insight would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > C.H.
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Naca air vent |
Chris I would have to see the plane, but in general if
it is not right on top of the leading edge but in
front of the wing it probably would be okay, but to be
sure I would consult with the manufacturer, if it is
certified, to get a 337 major alteration form approved
and do the deed, or if it is experimental look around
and see if others have it done and it wouldnt hurt to
have an A&P look and before you cut metal get several
other,s opinions and then decide then to do it or not.
these are my opinions alone hope this helps you
somewhat
Glenn Williams
A&P mech.
Fort Worth, Tx.
--- christopher huey wrote:
>
>
> Thanks, Glenn
>
> I guess I was not clear - the only flat area on the
> fuselage is just in
> front of the wing. I am not sure if the wing being
> in such close proximity
> will destroy the effectiveness of the vent. I would
> hate to cut the hole
> and then find out it does not work in that location.
>
> C.H.
>
>
> ----------
> > From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Naca air vent
> > Date: Friday, January 14, 2000 10:02 PM
> >
>
> >
> > the naca scoop is based on bournoulees (I didnt
> spell
> > that right) principle, i.e. convergent divergent
> if
> > you place the scoop on the leading edge you will
> not
> > need the naca scoop, but just a hole in the edge
> > covered by a screen. The ideal place for a naca
> scoop
> > is on the side of the fuselage or under the wing,
> just
> > in front of the main spar. The ideal for the scoop
> is
> > to basically pull air from a flat surface at a
> > relatively low pressure area and through the
> > bournoulees principle as stated above will
> transmit
> > air to you at a relatively high velocity.
> >
> > Glenn Williams
> > A&P mech.
> > Ft. Worth, Tx.
> >
> > --- christopher huey wrote:
> huey"
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > We are trying to improve the ventilation on a
> > > mid-wing airplane (non-RV). I
> > > am considering the installation of a "Van's NACA
> > > ventilation system" as it
> > > seems to work very well in the RV-4. The only
> flat
> > > surface to mount it on
> > > is just in front of the wing leading edge. Does
> > > anyone know what the
> > > pressure gradient is in the location on a
> typical
> > > aircraft (If there is
> > > such a thing). Any insight would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > C.H.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > through
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > > Matronics!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> > http://im.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Brown <glide303(at)southwind.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Naca air vent |
Such vents work best in high pressure areas, aligned with the flow.
One way to tell if it is a high pressure area is to tape a
small tube (1/8 OD) to the
fuselage, approximately aligned into the flow. Connect the tube to the
pressure side of an airspeed indicator, with the static side of the
indicator open to the cockpit. The higher the indication, the more
flow you'll get. Move the tube around. Pick the best location.
Once you have found a good location, put some dirty motor oil in the
area (remove the tube), fly for a few minutes, then land and quickly
observe where the oil is streaking. The oil will respond to gravity,
so observe carefully and hedge as needed on the direction.
NACA inlets do not recover as well as scoops. But they don't ice as
easily and have a bit less drag.
Dennis Brown
>
>Thanks, Glenn
>
>I guess I was not clear - the only flat area on the fuselage is just in
>front of the wing. I am not sure if the wing being in such close proximity
>will destroy the effectiveness of the vent. I would hate to cut the hole
>and then find out it does not work in that location.
>
>C.H.
>
>
>----------
>> From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Naca air vent
>> Date: Friday, January 14, 2000 10:02 PM
>>
>>
>> the naca scoop is based on bournoulees (I didnt spell
>> that right) principle, i.e. convergent divergent if
>> you place the scoop on the leading edge you will not
>> need the naca scoop, but just a hole in the edge
>> covered by a screen. The ideal place for a naca scoop
>> is on the side of the fuselage or under the wing, just
>> in front of the main spar. The ideal for the scoop is
>> to basically pull air from a flat surface at a
>> relatively low pressure area and through the
>> bournoulees principle as stated above will transmit
>> air to you at a relatively high velocity.
>>
>> Glenn Williams
>> A&P mech.
>> Ft. Worth, Tx.
>>
>> --- christopher huey wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Hello,
>> >
>> > We are trying to improve the ventilation on a
>> > mid-wing airplane (non-RV). I
>> > am considering the installation of a "Van's NACA
>> > ventilation system" as it
>> > seems to work very well in the RV-4. The only flat
>> > surface to mount it on
>> > is just in front of the wing leading edge. Does
>> > anyone know what the
>> > pressure gradient is in the location on a typical
>> > aircraft (If there is
>> > such a thing). Any insight would be appreciated.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > C.H.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > through
>> >
>> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>> >
>> > Matronics!
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>> http://im.yahoo.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry Clifford <bjc(at)btconnect.com> |
| Subject: | New RV Site in the UK |
UK readers (and anyone else) may be interested to know we now have a uk
based RV builders site located at www.rv6.co.uk/rvindex.htm . it's early
days but now up and running.
Barry Clifford
RV6A wings
ENGLAND
barrycliiford(at)rv6.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
Weight and balance done 1125. Taxi tests have begun. Inspection scheduled
for Friday 1-20-2000. Excited: yes. A word of caution have plenty of help
when doing the weight and balance. And be sure to CHOCK THE WHEELS let me
repeat CHOCK THE WHEELS. Taxi test are fun. so far all I've done is just 2
high speed runs down the runway. Lifted the nose wheel. My wife and several
friends have taxied with me just trying to get the feel. And I LIKE IT.
Commander Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips |
I saved mine for those days that you are waiting on parts to arrive and
need a building fix.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Main gear cotter pin holes |
I drilled the 1/8 holes through the main gear axle after preloading the
wheel bearings. The holes in the axle are collinear (in a straight line)
and match the holes in the axle nut. I don't think I can force the 1/8 x 2
MS24665-360 cotter pins through them because the holes seem too small and
the pin touches the wheel rim, tilting it on insertion.
I checked AC43.13-1A but didn't see any reference to cotter pin hole slop.
How have others handled the fit of these cotter pins?
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | ideal size for workbench |
I am building a workbench with a recessed slot in it for the Avery C-frame
tool. I was wondering what the ideal size of the bench top should be so that
it will be easiest to dimple the wing skins. Also, should the slot be
centered or offset to one side? (I will be able to work from either side of
the bench, so an offset slot would let me have the longer end on either the
left or right depending upon which side I am on. I am building an RV-9A
which has 5 foot greater wingspan so the wing skins will be somewhat larger
than other RV's.
Thanks,
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
Still waiting for empennage kit (19 days and counting - I thought they said
it was in stock)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Hi all,
I'm installing my new O-360-A1A from Van's this weekend, and will be using an Ellison
TBI in place
of the standard carb. That means I have a brand new carb for sale. The info on
the carb is:
Precision Airmotive Corp.
Model: MA-4-5
Part #: 10-3878
SN: 75089104
The carb is still in the factory box as included in the engine box, and was used
only for the test
running of my engine at the factory. According to helpful sources, the list price
for this carb is
$2250.75 and a rebuilt unit is $898.00 plus core, or $500 core charge. I'm asking
$1300.00 and
will consider offers. Your purchase will make the Softie parachute company very
happy :-)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (mounting engine)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ideal size for workbench |
Hi Chris:
As for myself, I have had no problems working off a workbench that I made
from two doors butted edge to edge on their long side. Instead of building
a recess in the table, I made two platforms that are about 3'x2' with some
carpet on the top of them so that you do not scratch any aluminum. They are
built so that the carpet is just a very smidge higher that your set will be
for dimpling the skins. This makes sure that the skin is firmly on the die
before you whack that dimple die. Please understand that this carpet is
just a *smidge* higher than the die. Don't make it too much higher. When
I am not using the avery tool, I just slide these platforms as well as the
avery tool to the back of my table and that still gives me a full door sized
work surface to do other things on.
Hope this helps. Us Wisconsinites have to stick together!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
skeleton of second wing
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: C J Heitman <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Date: Saturday, January 15, 2000 10:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: ideal size for workbench
>
>I am building a workbench with a recessed slot in it for the Avery C-frame
>tool. I was wondering what the ideal size of the bench top should be so
that
>it will be easiest to dimple the wing skins. Also, should the slot be
>centered or offset to one side? (I will be able to work from either side of
>the bench, so an offset slot would let me have the longer end on either the
>left or right depending upon which side I am on. I am building an RV-9A
>which has 5 foot greater wingspan so the wing skins will be somewhat larger
>than other RV's.
>
>Thanks,
>Chris Heitman
>Dousman WI
>Still waiting for empennage kit (19 days and counting - I thought they said
>it was in stock)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ideal size for workbench |
Chris,
I made separate removable table tops from pressboard that stand on edge
against the wall when not in use.
The size was determined by two things, the materials on hand and the size of
the largest skin to be dimpled. I decided that no skin should overhang the
table by more than 1/3, this worked out quite well.
Centered worked well for me.
You could try making the slot longer than the C-frame tool . A block to fill
the slot when the C-frame is not in use worked well for me.
A recess for the back rivet plate could also be incorporated with it's own
filler block.
I covered my table and filler blocks with a perforated foam from Costco. the
material is intended for non slip counter top use. I can supply the Co.
name, I'm not in the shop now.
I hope this reads well
jim in Kelowna BC., running out of excuses to not start on the canopy
>
> I am building a workbench with a recessed slot in it for the Avery C-frame
> tool. I was wondering what the ideal size of the bench top should be so
that
> it will be easiest to dimple the wing skins. Also, should the slot be
> centered or offset to one side? the wing skins will be somewhat
larger
> than other RV's.
Thanks,
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> Still waiting for empennage kit (19 days and counting - I thought they
said
> it was in stock)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Sealed nut plates |
Has anyone found a source for sealed nut plates used on fuel cell access
plates?
________________________________________________________________________________
well everyone,
i guess the list is not working out too well. i haven't been around for a
while, we bought another house and iv'e been rebuilding it. should be
building an rv. i haven't had the time to fly. anyone been doing anything
interesting.
regards
dan carley
rv3a-148cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | 1999 List of Contributors #2! |
Dear Listers,
Below is the final List of Contributors for 1999 as promised. Again, I
would like to thank everyone that made a generous contribution in 1999
to support the continued operation of these email Lists. Your support
directly makes the quality and quantity of this service possible.
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
EMail List Administrator
RV-4 Builder, #1763 - N442RV
=================== 1999 List of Contributors #2 ===================
Adamson, Arden
Allender, Patrick
Anonymous from MN
Asher, M.E.
Baxter, Rob
Bell, Doug
Bendure, Ryan
Bergh, David
Berrie, Robert
Blake, J.I.
Boucher, Michel
Bragg, Medford
Briegleb, Ross
Brietigam, Charles
Broomell, Glenn
Brusilow, Michael
Chatham, Robert
Clary, Buck
Coats, Lonnie
Cook, Craig - Golf Instruments Co.
Cooper, James
Cribb, William Jr.
Crosby, Harry
Dane, Bill Von
Dziewiontkoski, Bob
Ellenberger, Mike
Embree, Roger
Faatz, Mitch
Fasching, John
Gibbons, Robert
Glauser, David
Gold, Andy -Builder's Bookstore 10%
Gregory, Steve
Grenier, Raymond
Guarino, Michael
H., Harold - E.P.M.AV Corp
Hale, Brian
Hunt, Wallace
Johnston, Leroy
Jordon, Don
Killion, Clay
Klingmuller, Dr. L.M.
Magaw, David
Mains, Ralph
Maltby, Michael
Martin, Cliff - Martin Metal Fab
Mazataud, Hyun Sook
McBride, Duncan
McDonald, James
Mendenhall, Elbie - E.M Aviation
Mitchell, Duane
Morley, Harold
Peck, Phil
Pessel, Garnett
Rodebush, James
Ross, Jonathan
Schmidt, John
Scully, William
Smith, Steven
Spence, Stephen
Triff, Wes
Wagoner, Richard
Weaver, Brian
Wiegenstein, John
Wiley, Robert
Wilson, Donald
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | First flight - RV-6A (N110KB) |
How do YOU spell RV-grin? We now get to spell it "N110KB"! Our RV-6A(Q)
got to demonstrate that the crew at Van's really did teach it how to fly
before they shipped it to us in late 1998. (By the way - this note is
probably going to get a little long. I'm still grinning from ear to ear,
and have to share the feeling a little. If you're not interested, dump it
now to save time!)
First flight this morning was generally straight out of the FAA's AC 90-89
flight testing handbook. I went out and got clearance to do either a
takeoff or high-speed taxi. Once the plane got rolling, it was tracking
very well, good rudder control, no sign of shimmy. By the time I got a
little over half throttle fed in, the airspeed indicator was off the peg and
it was accelerating well. Lifted the nose a little - again no directional
control issues, so I decided to roll in the rest of the throttle and take
off (actually, it may have beat me to it - we were off the ground by the
time I got the throttle fully open). Liftoff was smooth, and climb-out as
good as I'd ever hoped for. Let the airspeed settle at about 100 kts
indicated, and the VSI was showing 1100-1200fpm (our field is 4670 MSL).
Got up out of the pattern (still close to the airport), and checked out
flight surfaces a little. All three major controls provided the expected
responses, so I reduced power to explore slow flight a little. Eased down
to about 50 kts indicated (bottom of green arc), and the plane was getting a
little mushy/vague about holding heading, needing to be corrected a little,
etc. Didn't go quite all the way to a full stall break, and rolled power
back in. Just a couple of knots on the airspeed indicator made all the
mushiness disappear!
Cyl temps had been running a little higher than I was comfortable with on a
brand-new engine (high 400's on 1, 2, and 4 - three was 75 deg cooler(?))
during the climb, so I thought I wouldn't push my luck - headed back in for
a landing (with the tower's blessing..). Set up on final, got it stabilized
at 80 kts, dropped flaps and started letting the speed droop coming over the
fence. Came into the flare, visualized Mike Seager sitting next to me
saying "flare, flare, flare...", and got as nice a touchdown as I've ever
been able to execute. Down and off in less distance than I usually use with
our Cherokee (and this was the first try!).
The precision and accuracy of the quick-build kits was demonstrated, to me,
by the ease of lift-off and very minimal trim inputs needed to be able to
fly "hands off" (ok, with a conscious effort to un-clench my left hand). I
didn't notice any variation in roll trim needed with speed (past R/C model
experience has shown that a warped wing will change trim over the plane's
speed range). Elevator trim needs were minimal, predictable, and climb-out
was almost at the neutral tab setting. I haven't really evaluated rudder
trim needs yet, as I didn't really let it get up to full nominal cruise
speed.
Special thanks on this project go to:
My wife Kathy (after all - it was her idea! You guys that think just
getting wives to help buck rivets and put things together is great, eat your
hearts out!)
Van and his crew - for designing and making available to us such a wonderful
airplane. Of the crew, special thanks to Bill Benedict for a "$50,000 ride"
at the Burlington CO fly-in in Sept '98, Scott McD. for keeping an eye on
the list and providing advice, and Barbara for patiently answering all the
"when's it going to be ready to ship?" phone calls.
Mike Seager and Jerry VanGrunsven, for flight training in N66RV. I wouldn't
have been anywhere NEAR as ready/capable for this event without their help.
Matt Dralle, for providing this list. I might have gotten this done without
this tool, but it's helped at least as much as the air compressor or rivet
gun to get it done right and without much grief.
Walt and Bev Giffen, and Tom Keithley - local RV-4 pilots (Walt & Bev's
picture is in the latest RVator), plus Tom is our EAA tech advisor. Lots of
inspiration and patience answering questions...
John Fasching - his advice (via this list) saved us a pile in Colorado state
taxes. (They'll let you pay them, if you don't know enough to point out
that you don't have to...)
By the way - what we're now FLYING (boy, it sure is fun to type that):
RV-6A quick-build, with sliding canopy, type S cowl, steps both sides,
2-piece wheel pants (not mounted today).
Lycoming O-360A1A, new from Van's, with Lasar ignition.
Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83 fixed pitch prop (again from Van's)
Panel is IFR capable, with RC Allen vacuum gyros (didn't read AeroElectric
Connection soon enough), mostly United flight instruments, and mostly
Westach engine instruments.
King KMA-26 audio panel, KX-155 nav/com w/ gs, KLX-135A GPS/com, and KT-76C
transponder for avionics (mounted in front of the copilot's seat) (here
again, Van had the best price for this equipment).
Interior is custom leather over Oregon Aero cushions (VERY comfortable!).
No paint yet - we plan to do that after we get everything dialed in during
the flight test period. (after today, we might as well go ahead and start
talking schedule!).
On to more specific flight testing - I'll try to post specific performance
as we learn it (and will also try to keep message length down a little after
this, but I just HAD to bubble over a little this time!)
(What are the key strokes to show an RV grin?)
Bill & Kathy Peck
RV-6A(Q) N110KB FLYING!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/14/0 22:04:23, glide303(at)southwind.net writes:
<< >> >
>> > Hello,
>> >
>> > We are trying to improve the ventilation on a
>> > mid-wing airplane (non-RV). I
>> > am considering the installation of a "Van's NACA
>> > ventilation system" as it
>> > seems to work very well in the RV-4. The only flat
>> > surface to mount it on
>> > is just in front of the wing leading edge. Does
>> > anyone know what the
>> > pressure gradient is in the location on a typical
>> > aircraft (If there is
>> > such a thing). Any insight would be appreciated.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> > >>
Sounds like an ideal situation where the LV air vent would work. These nifty
little gizmos look easier to install than the naca and will work anywhere
since they reach out and grab the air, yet are flush when retracted. Van' s
sell them I believe or check with Vetterman
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I put mine on after I got the emp done. You will be smarter later on, and
do a better job, so leave them off for now.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----Do most builders attach the
fiberglass tips to their various empennage pieces
before going on to the wing kit, or later on in conjunction
with final
assembly?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clevelands Strobe lights |
those are the aero flash strobes with separate power supplies. i have a set
on my cherokee also with no trouble in five years. cant beat the
price........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
This isn't the news on the list it was when I started this project.
But is was a thrill to me. I have flown a lot different airplanes, but this
was the the biggest high light of my 53 years of flying. What a kick!
to 5000 ft. I slowed down to 70 kts. That was ok. 60 kts felt a little soft.
I decided on 70 kts for final, this worked fine for approach. The landing
wasn't too bad for the first one. I was standard and flared a little high.
I had a friend giving me altitude estimates along side the runway. As he
said 5 ft. it started to sink, I gave it shot of power. It touched light
but skipped....that's counts for two landings, right? My friends is
building a -6 also and was more nervous then I was. He shot a video for
the takeoff and we have to hand out motion sickness pill before watching
it. He assigned the job to my wife for the landing. Much better
picture...but she has me insured... ;
0
Everything that is said about how great this plane flys is understated.
The ball stayed in the center with very little assistance. It is a little
left wing heaviness. I believe I will have the prop balanced as there was
viberation in just about all power RPMs.
Thanks to the list for all that helped!
Ok get back to building you guys!
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
Lebanon, OR
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ideal size for workbenches |
Greetings,
I've found it very efficient to have my dimpling table seperaate from my
work bench. My work bench is about 32 x 96, and my dimpling table is only 18 x
52. BUT, they are the same height so that I can move things around for best
advantage butting the dimpling table against the work bench. Center the slot
because you will want to work off the left , or right sometimes. I also made a
leg that would support the C Frame when it was slid all the way back. The skins
are always fully supported when dimpling, it goes very smooth.
Feel free to call me, if you have any questions re. this set up.
Regards,
David Wentzell - RV-6 - Fuse
Racine, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
I have a friend who is looking to purchase a flying RV-4. He wants a
quality machine of above average workmanship preferable with a 180 hp and
C/S prop. Contact Jim Eisenmenger at 605-665-5849 or email at
tau2(at)byelectric.com
Thanks
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Main gear cotter pin holes |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> I drilled the 1/8 holes through the main gear axle after preloading the
> wheel bearings. The holes in the axle are collinear (in a straight line)
> and match the holes in the axle nut. I don't think I can force the 1/8 x 2
> MS24665-360 cotter pins through them because the holes seem too small and
> the pin touches the wheel rim, tilting it on insertion.
Same problem on mine. I slightly curved the cotter pin to clear the wheel rim.
Once inserted in the first hole it was easy to find the second hole. I drilled
my holes #30 and the pin fits ok.
Gary Zilik
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Paint for inside battery box |
What, if anything are people using to paint/coat the inside of the battery
box?
Don Mack
RV-6A
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net> |
Hello Dan,
We had a flurry on the RV-3 list just before Christmas and it seems to have
died down again. Could be a Y2K problem.
I'm in the middle of building an RV-3B. Hope to have the fuselage out of
the jig in about two weeks.
My new QB wings should be here at about the same time as the fuselage is
removed from the jig. Excitement reigns!!
Regards - Rob (RV-3B N418RL (reserved))
rgreener(at)micron.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DFCPAC(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2000 3:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: no subject
well everyone,
i guess the list is not working out too well. i haven't been around for a
while, we bought another house and iv'e been rebuilding it. should be
building an rv. i haven't had the time to fly. anyone been doing anything
interesting.
regards
dan carley
rv3a-148cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lesliebwilliams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Project for Sale |
I am posting this for an acquaintance, so any questions about particulars
should be directed to him . He did state that the wings have the latest
mods.
RV-3 Project for Sale: tail and wings complete, fuselage in jig. $4,000
US. Contact Kevin Schell at 253-841-6499 (home, Puyallup WA) or
253-770-1899 (airport, Pierce Co WA 1S0).
Les Williams/RV-6A N24LW/1st Flight 1/1/2k
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Berry <denniswayneberry(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: 1999 List of Contributors #2! |
Matt,
Please delete my name from your list.
Thanks,
Dennis Berry
--- Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com
> (Matt Dralle)
>
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Below is the final List of Contributors for 1999 as
> promised. Again, I
> would like to thank everyone that made a generous
> contribution in 1999
> to support the continued operation of these email
> Lists. Your support
> directly makes the quality and quantity of this
> service possible.
>
> Thank you!
>
> Matt Dralle
> EMail List Administrator
> RV-4 Builder, #1763 - N442RV
>
>
> =================== 1999 List of Contributors #2
> ===================
>
>
> Adamson, Arden
> Allender, Patrick
> Anonymous from MN
> Asher, M.E.
> Baxter, Rob
> Bell, Doug
> Bendure, Ryan
> Bergh, David
> Berrie, Robert
> Blake, J.I.
> Boucher, Michel
> Bragg, Medford
> Briegleb, Ross
> Brietigam, Charles
> Broomell, Glenn
> Brusilow, Michael
> Chatham, Robert
> Clary, Buck
> Coats, Lonnie
> Cook, Craig - Golf Instruments Co.
> Cooper, James
> Cribb, William Jr.
> Crosby, Harry
> Dane, Bill Von
> Dziewiontkoski, Bob
> Ellenberger, Mike
> Embree, Roger
> Faatz, Mitch
> Fasching, John
> Gibbons, Robert
> Glauser, David
> Gold, Andy -Builder's Bookstore 10%
> Gregory, Steve
> Grenier, Raymond
> Guarino, Michael
> H., Harold - E.P.M.AV Corp
> Hale, Brian
> Hunt, Wallace
> Johnston, Leroy
> Jordon, Don
> Killion, Clay
> Klingmuller, Dr. L.M.
> Magaw, David
> Mains, Ralph
> Maltby, Michael
> Martin, Cliff - Martin Metal Fab
> Mazataud, Hyun Sook
> McBride, Duncan
> McDonald, James
> Mendenhall, Elbie - E.M Aviation
> Mitchell, Duane
> Morley, Harold
> Peck, Phil
> Pessel, Garnett
> Rodebush, James
> Ross, Jonathan
> Schmidt, John
> Scully, William
> Smith, Steven
> Spence, Stephen
> Triff, Wes
> Wagoner, Richard
> Weaver, Brian
> Wiegenstein, John
> Wiley, Robert
> Wilson, Donald
>
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 |
> Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX |
> dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring
> Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"RV-List: Re: RV6-List: 1999 List of Contributors #2!" (Jan 15, 10:15pm)
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: 1999 List of Contributors #2! |
What do you mean? You are not on the List below...?
Do you mean the general email list?? If so, just go to the following
URL and follow the instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
>--------------
>
>Matt,
>
>Please delete my name from your list.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dennis Berry
>
>--- Matt Dralle wrote:
>> --> RV6-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com
>> (Matt Dralle)
>>
>>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Below is the final List of Contributors for 1999 as
>> promised. Again, I
>> would like to thank everyone that made a generous
>> contribution in 1999
>> to support the continued operation of these email
>> Lists. Your support
>> directly makes the quality and quantity of this
>> service possible.
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> EMail List Administrator
>> RV-4 Builder, #1763 - N442RV
>>
>>
>> =================== 1999 List of Contributors #2
>> ===================
>>
>>
>> Adamson, Arden
>> Allender, Patrick
>> Anonymous from MN
>> Asher, M.E.
>> Baxter, Rob
>> Bell, Doug
>> Bendure, Ryan
>> Bergh, David
>> Berrie, Robert
>> Blake, J.I.
>> Boucher, Michel
>> Bragg, Medford
>> Briegleb, Ross
>> Brietigam, Charles
>> Broomell, Glenn
>> Brusilow, Michael
>> Chatham, Robert
>> Clary, Buck
>> Coats, Lonnie
>> Cook, Craig - Golf Instruments Co.
>> Cooper, James
>> Cribb, William Jr.
>> Crosby, Harry
>> Dane, Bill Von
>> Dziewiontkoski, Bob
>> Ellenberger, Mike
>> Embree, Roger
>> Faatz, Mitch
>> Fasching, John
>> Gibbons, Robert
>> Glauser, David
>> Gold, Andy -Builder's Bookstore 10%
>> Gregory, Steve
>> Grenier, Raymond
>> Guarino, Michael
>> H., Harold - E.P.M.AV Corp
>> Hale, Brian
>> Hunt, Wallace
>> Johnston, Leroy
>> Jordon, Don
>> Killion, Clay
>> Klingmuller, Dr. L.M.
>> Magaw, David
>> Mains, Ralph
>> Maltby, Michael
>> Martin, Cliff - Martin Metal Fab
>> Mazataud, Hyun Sook
>> McBride, Duncan
>> McDonald, James
>> Mendenhall, Elbie - E.M Aviation
>> Mitchell, Duane
>> Morley, Harold
>> Peck, Phil
>> Pessel, Garnett
>> Rodebush, James
>> Ross, Jonathan
>> Schmidt, John
>> Scully, William
>> Smith, Steven
>> Spence, Stephen
>> Triff, Wes
>> Wagoner, Richard
>> Weaver, Brian
>> Wiegenstein, John
>> Wiley, Robert
>> Wilson, Donald
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 |
>> Livermore | CA | 94551
>> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX |
>> dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring
>> Products For Aircraft
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Empennage fairing fabrication |
The empennage fairing I received from Van's was not a very good fit.
Actually it would be fairer to say it almost fit everywhere but actually
fit nowhere. To fabricate my own I adapted several ideas from other builders
on the list.
I applied two coats of mold release wax to the fairing that came in the
kit. I then applied one layer of fiberglass cloth. I used an "Evercoat
Finish Resin" I purchased from Home depot and used a medium-weight cloth.
(Do not use the ultra lightweight cloth)
Once cured, I took a dremel cutting disk and cut the excess cloth away.
After separating the fiberglass layup from the original fairing I had
a fairing which was flexible enough to adapt to the correct shape, but
with enough "body" to retain the nice compound curves of the original
fairing.
I then used strips of double-sided carpet tape to adhere the new fairing
to the empenage. 2" wide masing tape was placed along the edge of the
fairing just up to the fiberglass edge. Then mold release wax was applied
to the masking tape (not the fairing)
Over the lightweight fairing I then did two cloth layups using a medium
weight cloth and Aeropoxy. I added a couple of additional layers in
the very front.
Once cured and trimmed I had a fairing that fit the empennage perfectly.
It was not difficult, but as with all fiberglass work there is time involved
in curing and sanding.
--
John Allen
RV-6A finish work
Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
Hi Jim
Just noted your comment about starting your canopy, I presume it is a
slider.
(This started out to be a personal note to Jim but I have decided to Cc:
to the list because it may help others).
Just finished my canopy, turned out nice. A couple of hints that helped
me:
(1) Do not drill the forward holes for the roll bar support tube until
after the canopy frame is fitted. My canopy frame "leans Back" slightly
and I would like to tilt the roll bar back a few degrees from vertical
but it is too late now.
(2) Lots of small bending (tweaking) to get canopy frame to fit. I slit
2 short (about 2") sections of appropriate size pipe, taped them
together around the rear bow tubes and used pipe wrenches over these
pipe sections to bend the aft bow. Just a wee bit or tube will kink.
(3) To hold the canopy frame side rails in the vice for bending I
drilled a hole lengthwise in a 5" length of 2X4, then cut the wood block
lengthwise down the center of the hole. The resulting clamp will hold
canopy side rail firmly in vice.
(4) Get the canopy aft bows down close to level with the fusalage aft
skins, my aft bow was about 1/2" higher and made it more difficult to
fit the rear canopy skirts.
(5) When drilling holes in side rails for the canopy side skirts make a
wooden jig to get the holes perpendicular to the fusalage side skins.
- Easy to make but hard for me to to describe - imagine a kitchen fork
standing vertically, the handle down, parallel to and against side skin.
The top part, instead of the forks curve, has a hole drilled the same
diameter as the side tube and the hole is then cut vertically through
the center so you have "half a hole" that rests against the side rail
(the hole must be inset from the fusalage skin by the thickness of the
canopy side skirts). Pilot drill a perpindicular hole in the drill press
that will line up with the center of side rail.
Clamp jig to side rail, bottom flush against fusalage side skins and
drill holes. Perpindicular holes in the side tubes will get you a nice
side skirt without resorting to welding on tabs or various other fixes.
George McNutt, 6A
Langley B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ginmarcus" <Ginmarcus(at)econophone.ch> |
| Subject: | Ad for RV-list ... |
Dear Matt
I just got a few days ago on your interesting mailing list, thank you very
much.
I am looking to buy RV-3 or RV-4 How can I place an ad on your mailing list
??
Text:
Looking to buy RV-3 or RV-4
I want to buy RV-3 or RV-4, older model ok, instruments VFR ok,
please offer to Ginmarcus(at)hotmail.com
thanks for Your assistance,
Marc Ginsig
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2000 11:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: 1999 List of Contributors #2!
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Below is the final List of Contributors for 1999 as promised. Again, I
> would like to thank everyone that made a generous contribution in 1999
> to support the continued operation of these email Lists. Your support
> directly makes the quality and quantity of this service possible.
>
> Thank you!
>
> Matt Dralle
> EMail List Administrator
> RV-4 Builder, #1763 - N442RV
>
>
> =================== 1999 List of Contributors #2 ===================
>
>
> Adamson, Arden
> Allender, Patrick
> Anonymous from MN
> Asher, M.E.
> Baxter, Rob
> Bell, Doug
> Bendure, Ryan
> Bergh, David
> Berrie, Robert
> Blake, J.I.
> Boucher, Michel
> Bragg, Medford
> Briegleb, Ross
> Brietigam, Charles
> Broomell, Glenn
> Brusilow, Michael
> Chatham, Robert
> Clary, Buck
> Coats, Lonnie
> Cook, Craig - Golf Instruments Co.
> Cooper, James
> Cribb, William Jr.
> Crosby, Harry
> Dane, Bill Von
> Dziewiontkoski, Bob
> Ellenberger, Mike
> Embree, Roger
> Faatz, Mitch
> Fasching, John
> Gibbons, Robert
> Glauser, David
> Gold, Andy -Builder's Bookstore 10%
> Gregory, Steve
> Grenier, Raymond
> Guarino, Michael
> H., Harold - E.P.M.AV Corp
> Hale, Brian
> Hunt, Wallace
> Johnston, Leroy
> Jordon, Don
> Killion, Clay
> Klingmuller, Dr. L.M.
> Magaw, David
> Mains, Ralph
> Maltby, Michael
> Martin, Cliff - Martin Metal Fab
> Mazataud, Hyun Sook
> McBride, Duncan
> McDonald, James
> Mendenhall, Elbie - E.M Aviation
> Mitchell, Duane
> Morley, Harold
> Peck, Phil
> Pessel, Garnett
> Rodebush, James
> Ross, Jonathan
> Schmidt, John
> Scully, William
> Smith, Steven
> Spence, Stephen
> Triff, Wes
> Wagoner, Richard
> Weaver, Brian
> Wiegenstein, John
> Wiley, Robert
> Wilson, Donald
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Judy and Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: ideal size for workbench |
C J Heitman wrote:
>
>
> I am building a workbench with a recessed slot in it for the Avery C-frame
> tool. I was wondering what the ideal size of the bench top should be so that
> it will be easiest to dimple the wing skins. Also, should the slot be
> centered or offset to one side? (I will be able to work from either side of
> the bench, so an offset slot would let me have the longer end on either the
> left or right depending upon which side I am on. I am building an RV-9A
> which has 5 foot greater wingspan so the wing skins will be somewhat larger
> than other RV's.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> Still waiting for empennage kit (19 days and counting - I thought they said
> it was in stock)
>
Chris
I asked a similar question early in 99 and got some great advice, check
the archives.
For my 6A I built a combination dimpling/assy bench 8ft by 4ft,with the
C Frame centrally located, and removable.
Having acces to both sides is a MUST. It also has a shelf full size
approx 1 ft above grounbd level.
Good luck
Graham M
Blenheim
New Zealand.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for inside battery box |
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 4:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Paint for inside battery box
Hi Don,
Try an epoxy coating, preferrably one that is skydrol-resistant.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Orbital Sanders |
> Any wetsanding that you do should be done with a block, anway, because
that
> is detailed sanding that you can not really get straight with any power
> tool.
I happen to work as a spraypainter at Bombardier Aerospace and we use
orbital sanders for wetsanding.
The surfaces on an aircraft are simply to big to do by hand.
I would say use a sander for all flat surfaces and only do smaller bits by
hand.
Wet sanding gives a smoother surface and at the same time keeps the dust
down.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight - RV-6A (N110KB) |
Congratulations, keep the stories coming on your flight tests. Don't you
just wanna go out and tell everybody who ever asked you the question "When
do you think it'll be done?" That it's done, ith that big RV grin of course.
Congratulations again.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (fuse)
Olcott, NY
)
>
> How do YOU spell RV-grin? We now get to spell it "N110KB"! Our RV-6A(Q)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)attglobal.net> |
Denny, congratulations, all landings count, whether one or multiples of the
first one. It is really great to hear about all these first flights, it's a
big encouragement to those of us who are still pounding rivets. Keep the
updates coming.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (fuse)
Olcott, NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Harjehausen" <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2000 9:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: N641DH flys
________________________________________________________________________________
Fine Woodworking, October, 1998 has a great article on random orbital
sanders.....some of the models in the article may be a little old, but the
manufacturers are still around, and with such low inflation over the last
couple of years, the prices probably aren't that far off either.
Bob Moser
Dreaming of an RV8!
RE: Opinions on an orbital sander please
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for inside battery box |
It is not a paint, but when I was a helicopter mechanic for PHI in the gulf
they mixed 2216 adhesive (it's thin) and painted the box area. It takes a
couple of days to fully cure but the box is acid proof and sealed
afterwards.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Mack <donmack(at)flash.net>
Date: Saturday, January 15, 2000 11:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Paint for inside battery box
>
>What, if anything are people using to paint/coat the inside of the battery
>box?
>
>Don Mack
>RV-6A
>donmack(at)flash.net
>http://www.flash.net/~donmack
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | How to run out of longeron stock |
Hi there,
I recently had a frustrating experience that I will share in the hope
that it will save someone else.
I am drilling the aft fuselage side skins on my RV-8, and it was time
to fit the lower and mid aft longerons (F-888 & F-889). Well, I
discovered that while I had protected the pieces for the long, lower
F-889 longerons, I had managed to leave myself short one piece for
the mid aft F-888 longerons. I had lots of stock, but only one piece
was long enough. The second piece that I thought I had turned out to
be 0.125 instead of 0.063. Van sent me the right lengths, I just
messed up. I think the error was made when cutting the pieces for
the angles that mount the tie downs in the wing.
So, if you've got the wing kit, mark several pieces of 3/4 x 3/4 x
0.063 angle. For the RV-8 fuselage, you will need two pieces 105"
long, and two pieces 57" long.
Fortunately another local builder has his fuselage kit, but he is
several months behind me, so he was kind enough to loan me some
angle. We discovered that he also managed to cut a critical piece,
and he would not have had enough for the second 57" piece either.
Another builder has just ordered his RV-3 wing and fuselage kits, so
I will get some more angle sent in his kit.
I also discovered another creative way to short yourself. Apparently
there are people thick enough to determine the length of the mid aft
longeron by measuring from the F-807 to the F-809 bulkheads. Well,
if you aren't careful to make sure the F-809 is vertical, you could
end up with a piece 1/2 inch too short. Arrgh!! A better way to
measure is to measure against the pre-punched F-824 skin, or just
trust me that 57 inches will leave you with a little bit of extra to
trim off later.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Orbital Sanders |
I have a Ryobi palm sandr and it dresses up rough spots very well but it
uses very expensive hook and loop paper that I don't like to buy.
Look for one that uses 1/4 sheet paper that you can bond with spray
adhesive.
Also regarding the Ryobi ot spins very fast and only random orbits when
in contact with the work so it is kinda like a disc sander and vibro all
in one.
It was only $20 tho
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 builders manual |
Does anyone know if ANYONE in the country has put out a builders manual for
the RV8QB? A friend is building one and has already picked up his parts but
he wants to know if there is anything specific for continuing on with the
project.
Please reply to JimRV6A(at)aol.com off the list. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Orbital Sanders |
In a message dated 1/15/00 9:29:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
GLPalinkas(at)aol.com writes:
<< Opinions on an orbital sander please. >>
I bought a Porter-Cable palm sander from McMaster-Carr and almost everyone at
the airport has borrowed and used it with good results.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: ideal size for workbench |
If you get the Avery C-frame and Avery back-rivet bucking "slab" you'll
notice that they are the same width. Sooo...
if you build a table that has a recess or a raised platform out of 1x2
and thin plywood (I did this with carpet on top and a cutout for the
C-frame) then you can make a shim (2x4 with ~ 1/8 shim strips) that fits
in the recess and use the same table for back riveting. Remember to
back rivet when able for a non-rippled surface.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Williams <73623.2504(at)compuserve.com> |
James Close wrote:
I am planning to do my own painting and and am contemplating using the HVLP
Citation paint system from Fastech. Does anyone have any experience (good
or bad) with this system?
____________________
JIm, I painted my RV6 last Spring in my garage at home with "poison"
paint. I was going to buy a Citation but was able to purchase a used Hobby
Air unit and use an older Croix HVLP the local EAA chapter had available.
Everythng worked fine. After doing the process I liked having the painting
and air supply units separate.
For sure, the air supply needs to be outside and well clear of the painting
environment. I had thought I would set the Hobby Air box inside and run a
fresh air hose to it. After looking at it, I found it easier to set the
box outside and run a hose from the output part of the box through the
wall of my garage to the mask. I used the fittings Fastech recommend and
did that. Then I put the painting power unit inside with fewer hoses
coming from outside. Managing the separate hose from the Hobby Air unit
was not a prolem.
Since moving the plane to airport I use the Hobby Air unit when doing touch
up work. But instead of a spray gun I have been using the little Preval
(aerosol plus a glass bottle with your paint) spray units. They are very
easy to clean up compared to a spray gun. With some blending and
polishing,they seem to work well (well enough for me, anyway).
Just one experience. If you want to have both units together I expect the
Citation would be good. I liked dealing with Fastech - bought suit, hood,
etc. from them plus they gave me some advice on the Hobby Air.
Good Luck,
Keith Williams - RV6 - 55 hours, Moline Illinois.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to run out of longeron stock |
Hi all,
Kevin Horton's tale reminds me of a rule an old carpenter gave me. It
seems obvious but ...
Always cut from the shortest piece you have.
Measure twice, cut once.
Oh, here is another.
When making multiple pieces alike, use the same piece for the pattern all
the time.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Confusion Over "List of Contributors"... |
Hi Listers,
I'm really sorry for the confusion over the most recent posting of the
List of Contributors #2. List #2 contained only the contributor names
*since* the List #1 was posted. So, if you weren't on List #2, you were
likely on List #1. Below are URLs to each of the LOC #x postings.
Again, sorry for the confusion. I should have made it more clear in
the verbiage.
Thanks to everyone,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
============================= LOC #1 and #2 ===============================
List of Contributors #1 - 1999
------------------------------
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
List of Contributors #2 - 1999
------------------------------
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
===========================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for inside battery box |
Don Mack wrote:
>
>
> What, if anything are people using to paint/coat the inside of the battery
> box?
Don, you really should consider using a recombinant gas battery (such as
the Concorde RG series, or a similar battery available at well stocked
battery supply places).
Since the RG batteries don't vent or leak, painting the inside of the
battery box is a non-issue. Matter of fact, you really don't even need a
box if the RG battery is well secured.
Sam Buchanan (used a battery box since it looked better than having the
battery in full view)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (Whoops) Confusion Over "List of Contributors"... |
>
>Okay, here are the *real* URLs. Sorry...
>
>
>Matt Dralle
>Email List Admin.
>
>
>============================= LOC #1 and #2 ===============================
>
>
> List of Contributors #1 - 1999
> ------------------------------
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_
>of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
>
>
> List of Contributors #2 - 1999
> ------------------------------
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=53146?KEYS=list_
>of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
>
>
>===========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Re: (No, Really - Here are the URLs) Confusion Over "List of |
Contributors"...
Geeze, I can't seem to type today. Here are the *real*, *REAL* URLs.
Sorry for so many posts... Ack
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
============================= LOC #1 and #2 ===============================
List of Contributors #1 - 1999
------------------------------
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=29144?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
List of Contributors #2 - 1999
------------------------------
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=53146?KEYS=list_of_con?LISTNAME=Homebuilt?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=11144111847?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
===========================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: How to run out of longeron stock |
>
>Hi all,
>
>Kevin Horton's tale reminds me of a rule an old carpenter gave me. It
>seems obvious but ...
>
>Always cut from the shortest piece you have.
>
This is a pretty good rule usually, but this is the rule that got me
in trouble. I had 3 pieces of 0.063 angle, and I cut too many parts
from one piece. I needed to get two 57 inch pieces out of that third
piece of angle, but didn't realize that until it was already too
short. I should have cut some of those parts from the longer pieces
of angle, so that the shortest piece didn't become too short.
I'm going to send a note to Van's to see about putting a better note
in the manual. The problem is that thte guy who is working on his
wing kit doesn't really have enough info to know what length angles
he is going to need on the fuselage kit. It is pretty hard to figure
this out from the plans as no length is given for those longerons.
You really need to measure against the fuselage aft side skin, but
you don't get that until you get the fuselage kit. The wing kit
should specifically say "you will need longerons of these lengths xx,
xx, yy and yy. Mark the angle stock to make sure you save pieces
this long."
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Gregory <sgregory(at)best.com> |
| Subject: | The old RVx vs RVxA thread |
Hi Listers,
A couple of weeks ago there was a great thread about the 6 vs 6A. I say
great because it caused me to re-think the direction of my project.
Most of the time discussions of this nature will confirm our decisions
and that is good, but in some cases new information can lead us to a
better option. Another great benefit of this list. This question,
however, probably belongs more to the 8 vs 8A.
I don't want to revisit any of the ideas presented there and start the
thread (nay, rope) again, but one consideration wasn't discussed that I
am curious about and would appreciate your collective input.
It has to do with us more full-figured pilots. I weigh 230 lbs
(alright! alright! 240lbs) and just by climbing into the airplane affect
the CG location. I understand the 8/8A already is sensitive to a
somewhat forward CG and people are putting ballast in the rear when
flying solo just to get that full flare on landing.
I want to put myself, an IFR panel, a 200hp engine and a constant speed
prop on my airplane, but with that much weight up front I don't want it
to look like a Long EZ sitting on the ramp with the nose gear up!
The question is this....all other factors being equal....how is the CG
location affected by taking the 8A nose gear off and putting a tiny
wheel waaaayyyyy in the back?
Truth of the matter, if I put the battery aft, use a 180hp engine with
fixed pitched prop and IFR panel; will the 8 be better for a heavier
pilot due to the lack of the weight of the extra wheel up front? Or is
it insignificant enough, that I should use all of the other issues to
decide on an 8 or 8A?
Thanks for all your help. Empennaging N884SG (reserved).
--
Blue Skies....
Steve Gregory
ERA Golden Hills Brokers
3223 Crow Canyon Rd #110
San Ramon, CA 94583
Direct 925/543-2595
FAX 924/866-0281
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
I am trying to assemble the front wheel and I find the parts shipped to me
in the finishing kit do not match the cross section view A-A in drawing 62.
I particular I have no U610 spacer and no U-609 axle. Instead I have a pair
of stepped bushings labeled U623, but I cannot find any drawing or
instructions that describe these. They appear to replace the other parts.
HELP!
As a second question, what is the castoring range of the 6A nose wheel? The
two 5/16 x 24 Allen screws in the WD-630A arm limit my nosewheel angulation
to +/- 32 degrees about the centerline. I have seen 6As turn in a very
small radius, so this seems like pretty limited turning. When I took my
demo ride in the 6A several years ago I recall the demo pilot turning the
nose wheel from a 90 degree position to straight ahead before we got in and
started the engine. What gives?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to run out of longeron stock |
Hal
> Always cut from the shortest piece you have.
I guess Kevin got into problems because if this rule, I know I did.
Rather than cutting a little from all pieces I cut multiple pieces from
one angle thinking to preserve the other two long pieces. Once you cut a
piece of the first angle, that angle now is the shortest you have....
Had I cut a little from all, I would now not have to order a extra piece
with the fuse.
I guess I am happy I did not actually order the fuse, then again, with
my luck I will forget I need it in a couple of months.
Anyway, I for one am very happy with Kevin's post !!
Gert
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JANWR101(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | First flight N540JT |
N540JT first flight today. IO540 powered RV8. All the pilot could say was
"wow what a ride" . Inital rate of climb 3000 FPM .Speed was held down to 200
on this flight till further testing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: The old RVx vs RVxA thread |
>
>The question is this....all other factors being equal....how is the CG
>location affected by taking the 8A nose gear off and putting a tiny
>wheel waaaayyyyy in the back?
>
>Truth of the matter, if I put the battery aft, use a 180hp engine with
>fixed pitched prop and IFR panel; will the 8 be better for a heavier
>pilot due to the lack of the weight of the extra wheel up front? Or is
>it insignificant enough, that I should use all of the other issues to
>decide on an 8 or 8A?
>
I think you probably need input from Van on this one. It is not as
simple as it might first appear. The RV-8 has a pretty heavy landing
gear box structure in the forward fuselage, and those landing gear
legs are very heavy, and further forward than the RV-8A main gear
legs. So, it is not obvious from first glance which model has a
further forward CG, everything else being equal. If I had to guess,
I would say the RV-8's CG is further forward than the -8A.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to run out of longeron stock |
Kevin,
I'm almost done with the wing kit but haven't ordered the fuselage kit yet.
I thought the only wing kit angle we needed to save for the fuselage was the
two long (14 foot 2 inches I believe) pieces.
Should I have angle left over from the wing kit for the fuselage other than
those 2 long pieces?
Thanks for the info.
Chris Hand
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to run out of longeron stock
>
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >Kevin Horton's tale reminds me of a rule an old carpenter gave me. It
> >seems obvious but ...
> >
> >Always cut from the shortest piece you have.
> >
>
> This is a pretty good rule usually, but this is the rule that got me
> in trouble. I had 3 pieces of 0.063 angle, and I cut too many parts
> from one piece. I needed to get two 57 inch pieces out of that third
> piece of angle, but didn't realize that until it was already too
> short. I should have cut some of those parts from the longer pieces
> of angle, so that the shortest piece didn't become too short.
>
> I'm going to send a note to Van's to see about putting a better note
> in the manual. The problem is that thte guy who is working on his
> wing kit doesn't really have enough info to know what length angles
> he is going to need on the fuselage kit. It is pretty hard to figure
> this out from the plans as no length is given for those longerons.
> You really need to measure against the fuselage aft side skin, but
> you don't get that until you get the fuselage kit. The wing kit
> should specifically say "you will need longerons of these lengths xx,
> xx, yy and yy. Mark the angle stock to make sure you save pieces
> this long."
>
> Take care,
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: How to run out of longeron stock |
>
>Kevin,
>I'm almost done with the wing kit but haven't ordered the fuselage kit yet.
>I thought the only wing kit angle we needed to save for the fuselage was the
>two long (14 foot 2 inches I believe) pieces.
>Should I have angle left over from the wing kit for the fuselage other than
>those 2 long pieces?
>Thanks for the info.
>Chris Hand
>RV-6A
Chris,
I can't speak for the RV-6A, but certainly you need a bunch of that
angle on the RV-8/8A. You need two really long 0.125 angles for the
upper longerons, which go from the firewall to the tail, and you need
two pieces of 0.063 angle for the upper aft longerons, which are
shorter (105" on the RV-8). According to my packing list, I did get
some 6' pieces of 0.063 angle with the fuselage kit, but all the
longer stuff came with the wing kit.
Maybe a -6A builder can step in here to clarify the situation for Chris.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight N540JT |
>
>N540JT first flight today. IO540 powered RV8. All the pilot could say was
>"wow what a ride" . Inital rate of climb 3000 FPM .Speed was held down to 200
>on this flight till further testing
>
>
Congratulations.
Just curious - what mods did you make to beef up the structure for
the extra weight of the engine? What is your empty weight, and what
fairings, etc are included in that weight?
Have fun, and be careful out there,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
On 16 Jan 00, at 14:43, Dennis Persyk wrote:
> The two 5/16 x 24 Allen screws in the WD-630A arm limit my
> nosewheel angulation to +/- 32 degrees about the centerline. I have seen
> 6As turn in a very small radius, so this seems like pretty limited
> turning.
Something's not right here. My 6A nose wheel pivots more than 90
degrees either side of centerline. My first guess is that you have
installed the little "stop" backwards. The "stop" I'm referring to is the
piece that slips over the nose gear just before the fork. The "ears" on
the "stop" piece are what restrict nose wheel pivot travel.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting main ribs to spar |
Builders:
Has anyone had any problems with riveting the leading edge ribs to the
spar,after skinning. (ie) types of bucking bars used,pressure on a 2x
gun,any tips will be of help.
Chris S. RV8 80881 Working on tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
Turning radius: I have a 6A and believe me, there is plenty of turn in that
nosewheel. A lot sharper than I'd have imagined.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jfarrar1" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
Does anyone know if there is any reason that the ptt switch cannot be
soldered to the tip and shield terminals of the mic jack directly?
According to Electric Bob's diagrams it looks like it should be OK but I
wanted to check. This would be for the ptt switch for the passenger which
is mounted right next to the jack.
Also, did I see somewhere that it is not a good idea to send HTML format
mail to the list?
Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
In a message dated 1/16/00 3:52:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> I am trying to assemble the front wheel and I find the parts shipped to me
> in the finishing kit do not match the cross section view A-A in drawing 62.
> I particular I have no U610 spacer and no U-609 axle. Instead I have a
pair
> of stepped bushings labeled U623, but I cannot find any drawing or
> instructions that describe these. They appear to replace the other parts.
> HELP!
>
Drawing 62 is the old system. The new one is shown on C2. I think that C
stands for Combined since the drawing states that it is the nosewheel for 6A,
8A, 9A. Dig through your blueprints. If you don't have it, call Van's.
Brian Eckstein
6A panel, nosewheel, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The old RVx vs RVxA thread |
In a message dated 1/16/0 13:14:12, sgregory(at)best.com writes:
<< Or is
it insignificant enough, that I should use all of the other issues to
decide on an 8 or 8A?
Thanks for all your help. Empennaging N884SG (reserved).
>>
I;m sure Scott McDaniel could answer this one properly; however I was unable
to find any one who could answer the question comparing the 6 and 6A as far
as center of gravity was concerned. So when I weighed mine I used the same
scales as a fellow builder who had a very similar config but had a six vs my
6A. Our empty CG was very close to identical, which leads me to believe that
Van designed it that way, for obvious reasons. I would therefore suspect he
did the same on the 8. I doubt very seriously there would be any significant
difference.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
In a message dated 1/16/0 17:04:58, timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
On 16 Jan 00, at 14:43, Dennis Persyk wrote:
> The two 5/16 x 24 Allen screws in the WD-630A arm limit my
> nosewheel angulation to +/- 32 degrees about the centerline. I have seen
> 6As turn in a very small radius, so this seems like pretty limited
> turning.
Something's not right here. My 6A nose wheel pivots more than 90
degrees either side of centerline. My first guess is that you have
installed the little "stop" backwards. The "stop" I'm referring to is the
piece that slips over the nose gear just before the fork. The "ears" on
the "stop" piece are what restrict nose wheel pivot travel.
Tim
>>
I also suspect you may have the piece behind the screws instead of in front;
however My recollection is the travel is around 60 to 70 degrees. mine is
less than 90. BTW I have noted that when I am pulling it at full deflection
(when parking), the inboard main wheel backs up! This is indeed a short
turning plane, both on the grond and in the air.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to run out of longeron stock |
Gert wrote:
>
>
> Hal
>
> > Always cut from the shortest piece you have.
>
> I guess Kevin got into problems because if this rule, I know I did.
> Rather than cutting a little from all pieces I cut multiple pieces from
> one angle thinking to preserve the other two long pieces. Once you cut a
> piece of the first angle, that angle now is the shortest you have....
>
> Had I cut a little from all, I would now not have to order a extra piece
> with the fuse.
snips
I've always cut the longest finished size (of whatever) I need first. If
I do make a mistake, at least it's usable for shorter pieces.
If the recommended building sequence baits this trap, you really should
be warned in the manual.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for inside battery box |
> It is not a paint, but when I was a helicopter mechanic for PHI in the
gulf
> they mixed 2216 adhesive (it's thin) and painted the box area. It takes
>snip
I take this is EC2216,scotchweld adhesive made by 3M.
If it is I can tell you we use this stuff to fill pinholes in B737
rudderskins
made out of composite.there would be a Boeing spec for it in that case.
M de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
Tim: I think I might have made the same mistake you discussed. Thanks
Dennis.
On another subject does any body know what is the correct part number for
the sensenich prop for an 0-320 engine 160 HP.
Thanks: Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB (N602RV reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: <BumFlyer(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Nose Gear Assembly
>
>
> In a message dated 1/16/0 17:04:58, timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> On 16 Jan 00, at 14:43, Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> > The two 5/16 x 24 Allen screws in the WD-630A arm limit my
> > nosewheel angulation to +/- 32 degrees about the centerline. I have
seen
> > 6As turn in a very small radius, so this seems like pretty limited
> > turning.
>
> Something's not right here. My 6A nose wheel pivots more than 90
> degrees either side of centerline. My first guess is that you have
> installed the little "stop" backwards. The "stop" I'm referring to is the
> piece that slips over the nose gear just before the fork. The "ears" on
> the "stop" piece are what restrict nose wheel pivot travel.
>
> Tim
> >>
>
> I also suspect you may have the piece behind the screws instead of in
front;
> however My recollection is the travel is around 60 to 70 degrees. mine is
> less than 90. BTW I have noted that when I am pulling it at full
deflection
> (when parking), the inboard main wheel backs up! This is indeed a short
> turning plane, both on the grond and in the air.
>
> D Walsh
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jfarrar1" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Shielded wire for phones |
Another question about headphone wiring. On one of Bob Nuckolls' drawings,
he shows the headphone jack wired w/ 2 conductor shielded wire with the
wires soldered to the tip and ring terminals and the shield bonded to the
ring conductor only at the audio panel termination. (i.e.. the shield is not
connected at the jack end) I bought a set of jacks that were already
prewired and the phone jack was wired with a single conductor shielded wire
with the shield soldered to the ring terminal. Which way is the preferred
method? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved, Chandler, AZ
jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to run out of longeron stock |
Kevin,
I did the same. Cut all the wing pieces from the same length
of material. I was trying to keep two of them long. I seem to
remember being warned about keeping two long for the fuse
longerons. I think your note to Van's is a good idea. Well I
guess I can have a 60" piece shipped UPS.
Mike Mckenna (RV-8 wings)
Kevin Horton wrote:
> This is a pretty good rule usually, but this is the rule that got me
> in trouble. I had 3 pieces of 0.063 angle, and I cut too many parts
> from one piece. I needed to get two 57 inch pieces out of that third
> piece of angle, but didn't realize that until it was already too
> short. I should have cut some of those parts from the longer pieces
> of angle, so that the shortest piece didn't become too short.
>
> I'm going to send a note to Van's to see about putting a better note
> in the manual. The problem is that thte guy who is working on his
> wing kit doesn't really have enough info to know what length angles
> he is going to need on the fuselage kit. It is pretty hard to figure
> this out from the plans as no length is given for those longerons.
> You really need to measure against the fuselage aft side skin, but
> you don't get that until you get the fuselage kit. The wing kit
> should specifically say "you will need longerons of these lengths xx,
> xx, yy and yy. Mark the angle stock to make sure you save pieces
> this long."
>
> Take care,
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
I have heard on-and-off list that my installation is a) correct, and b)
backwards. I installed it as I did, with limited angulation, because dwg 62
clearly depicts the longer tab of the Wd631 pointing forwards, in a manner
that restricts angulation.
I think the jury is still out.
Dennis Persyk
-----Original Message-----
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net <flyhars(at)ibm.net>
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Nose Gear Assembly
>
>Tim: I think I might have made the same mistake you discussed. Thanks
>Dennis.
>On another subject does any body know what is the correct part number for
>the sensenich prop for an 0-320 engine 160 HP.
>Thanks: Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB (N602RV reserved)
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <BumFlyer(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 8:05 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Nose Gear Assembly
>
>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 1/16/0 17:04:58, timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
>>
>>
>> On 16 Jan 00, at 14:43, Dennis Persyk wrote:
>>
>> > The two 5/16 x 24 Allen screws in the WD-630A arm limit my
>> > nosewheel angulation to +/- 32 degrees about the centerline. I have
>seen
>> > 6As turn in a very small radius, so this seems like pretty limited
>> > turning.
>>
>> Something's not right here. My 6A nose wheel pivots more than 90
>> degrees either side of centerline. My first guess is that you have
>> installed the little "stop" backwards. The "stop" I'm referring to is
the
>> piece that slips over the nose gear just before the fork. The "ears" on
>> the "stop" piece are what restrict nose wheel pivot travel.
>>
>> Tim
>> >>
>>
>> I also suspect you may have the piece behind the screws instead of in
>front;
>> however My recollection is the travel is around 60 to 70 degrees. mine is
>> less than 90. BTW I have noted that when I am pulling it at full
>deflection
>> (when parking), the inboard main wheel backs up! This is indeed a short
>> turning plane, both on the grond and in the air.
>>
>> D Walsh
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Orbital Sanders |
posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
><< Opinions on an orbital sander please. >>
>
>I bought a Porter-Cable palm sander from McMaster-Carr and almost everyone
at
>the airport has borrowed and used it with good results.
>
>-GV
>
I have 2 of them in my shop and they are excellent tools. Highly
recommended.
Bob Bristol RV6A C-GCTZ 121 Hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: How to run out of longeron stock |
>
>
>
>Gert wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hal
>>
>> > Always cut from the shortest piece you have.
>>
>> I guess Kevin got into problems because if this rule, I know I did.
>> Rather than cutting a little from all pieces I cut multiple pieces from
>> one angle thinking to preserve the other two long pieces. Once you cut a
>> piece of the first angle, that angle now is the shortest you have....
>>
>> Had I cut a little from all, I would now not have to order a extra piece
>> with the fuse.
>snips
>I've always cut the longest finished size (of whatever) I need first. If
>I do make a mistake, at least it's usable for shorter pieces.
>
>If the recommended building sequence baits this trap, you really should
>be warned in the manual.
>
>Charlie
>
Well, it sounds like several guys have got caught in the same trap I
did. So, I sent a message to Van's with suggested wording for a Note
in the manual. I expect they will be quick to update the manual, in
their never ending quest for perfect documentation :-)
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting main ribs to spar |
>
>Builders:
> Has anyone had any problems with riveting the leading edge ribs to the
>spar,after skinning. (ie) types of bucking bars used,pressure on a 2x
>gun,any tips will be of help.
>
>Chris S. RV8 80881 Working on tanks.
>
Chris,
I was pretty worried about those rivets too, but it was much easier
to do them than I feared. I used a long offset rivet set, and ground
and polished quite a bit of material off one side. I used duct tape
to keep the set from rotating, and put hockey shin pad tape on the
end of the set to keep it from moving around on the rivet. I used
both hands on the rivet gun, and had a friend with average length
arms on the bucking bar. I don't remember what bars we used, as I've
got a big selection. I do recall he used two or three different
ones. He had to do a fair bit of feeling around to find each rivet.
To make sure he was on the rivet, I would have him press down a bit
to make sure we could push the rivet back and forth between the rivet
set and the bucking bar.
The rivet heads weren't all perfect, but they all met the criteria in
the riveting MIL-SPEC, available at: http://www.flash.net/~gila/
Note: I have found I get more consistent results in hard to get at
locations if the 1/8 rivets are very slightly shorter than the
oft-quoted 1.5 x diameter. I use a rivet cutter as required. You
don't have as much room to play with between not big enough diameter,
and too flat, but it makes it much less likely to tip the head over.
When looking at the driven head, I use the height and diameter
criteria from the above MIL-SPEC. Both those numbers are smaller
than the nominal 0.5 x diameter and 1.5 x diameter, so you have more
margin for error than you think you do.
I've got a 3x gun, but I used pretty much the same pressure as I've
used for other 1/8 inch rivets, as I recall.
All in all, this part was pretty much a non event, not the disaster I
was afraid of.
Good luck,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealed nut plates |
Pete & Delee Bodie wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a source for sealed nut plates used on fuel cell access
> plates?
>
Pete, look at page 107 of Wag Aero's catalog. They sell 8-32 "anchor"
nuts. I bought some of these and they appear to be the right thing. They
have rubber "O" rings at the base. I have some left over. Contact me off
list if you're interested.
Chuck----RV-3's forever!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
In a message dated 1/16/00 4:37:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< My 6A nose wheel pivots more than 90
degrees either side of centerline. My first guess is that you have
installed the little "stop" backwards. The "stop" I'm referring to is the
piece that slips over the nose gear just before the fork. The "ears" on
the "stop" piece are what restrict nose wheel pivot travel. >>
Tim-
Unless Van's has changed the geometry, the gear fork has the stop screw holes
set at an included angle of about 210 degrees and the radii centers of the
stop ears are about 80 degrees. The stop ears face forward, so (doing the
math) the stops should allow the nose gear to pivot 65 degrees on either side
of center. If you have significantly more or less travel, there's something
wrong.
The 6A turns on a dime, so Van must have done his homework.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Sealed nut plates |
Wicks has them. Do a search on NAS1473 at http://wicksaircraft.com
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Has anyone found a source for sealed nut plates used on fuel cell access
> > plates?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
A while back there was a discussion on the Palm units.
I found this website with more information.
FYI only. I am not advertising for them, but they are getting my attention.
http://www.aspenleaf.com/palm/
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire for phones |
jfarrar1 wrote:
>
>
> Another question about headphone wiring. On one of Bob Nuckolls' drawings,
> he shows the headphone jack wired w/ 2 conductor shielded wire with the
> wires soldered to the tip and ring terminals and the shield bonded to the
> ring conductor only at the audio panel termination. (i.e.. the shield is not
> connected at the jack end) I bought a set of jacks that were already
> prewired and the phone jack was wired with a single conductor shielded wire
> with the shield soldered to the ring terminal. Which way is the preferred
> method? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved, Chandler, AZ
> jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring
>
I can't speak for Bob, but if you want a quick answer to both questions,
here goes:
1. The PTT switch just ties the switch wire to ground, so tying it
directly to the jack terminals is ok.
2. I assume when you say 'ring' in the context of the headphone jack,
you mean the ground terminal, or shell of the connector, not 'ring' as
in the ring in the mic jack. I don't have his book, but I would bet he's
trying to eliminate 'ground loops' in the audio circuits by letting the
shield float unconnected at the jack end. For this to work, the shell of
the jack must be insulated from the frame of the a/c. Does he show
insulators for the shell of the jack? Two wires + shield are probably
better, but what you've got will certainly work. It's still a good idea
to insulate the jack from the airframe.
Hopefully Bob will see your posts & correct me if I'm wrong about what
he's trying to do with the circuit.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6A Nose Gear Assembly
>
>I am trying to assemble the front wheel and I find the parts shipped to me
>in the finishing kit do not match the cross section view A-A in drawing 62.
>I particular I have no U610 spacer and no U-609 axle. Instead I have a
pair
>of stepped bushings labeled U623, but I cannot find any drawing or
>instructions that describe these. They appear to replace the other parts.
>HELP!
Dennis
You have an old dwg. New dwg's were issued with my finished kit [4-1999].
The stepped bushings locate on the outside of the taper wheel bearings, the
shoulder provides the slight pre load to the bearings against a vulcanised
rubber coating on the outside of the bearing.
This arrangement seems strange as the rubber is sure to 'cold flow'
eventually and the bearings will become loose.
Has anyone else had any problems with this set up.?
Derek Reed 6A [setting up mains and nose wheel]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting main ribs to spar |
Just to add to Kevin Horton's post on this subject, these can be a real bear
to do, I would strongly suggest you not try it alone. Because of rivets
consistently bending in towards the rib, my building partner modified a bar
that had a "foot" on it by grinding a shallow circular depression in the
"foot" face with ball-shaped stone in a die grinder. This allowed him to
steer the shop head a litle away from the rib to get it started. Once the
rivet was tight, he changed to the other, flat end of the bar. Kevin's
suggestion about using slightly shorter rivets is a good one, since even a
rivet with a good,slightly small shop head is preferable to a clinched, laid
over one. Andy Johnson, Boca Raton, FL, -8 left wing done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jfarrar1" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire for phones |
Charlie, Thanks for the info. My comments in CAPS. Jeff
> > snip snip <<<
> I can't speak for Bob, but if you want a quick answer to both questions,
> here goes:
>
> 1. The PTT switch just ties the switch wire to ground, so tying it
> directly to the jack terminals is ok.
UNDERSTOOD
>
> 2. I assume when you say 'ring' in the context of the headphone jack,
> you mean the ground terminal,
YES
or shell of the connector, not 'ring' as
> in the ring in the mic jack. I don't have his book, but I would bet he's
> trying to eliminate 'ground loops' in the audio circuits by letting the
> shield float unconnected at the jack end. For this to work, the shell of
> the jack must be insulated from the frame of the a/c. Does he show
> insulators for the shell of the jack? Two wires + shield are probably
> better, but what you've got will certainly work. It's still a good idea
> to insulate the jack from the airframe.
YES, IT"S ISOLATED. I'M GOING TO REDO THEM ANYWAY AS I REALIZED THAT IF I
WANTED STEREO, I NEED STEREO JACKS
>
> Hopefully Bob will see your posts & correct me if I'm wrong about what
> he's trying to do with the circuit.
>
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd Smithey" <smithey(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1999 List of Contributors #2! |
This is not a list of all contributors is it?
Lloyd
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2000 17:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: 1999 List of Contributors #2!
>
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Below is the final List of Contributors for 1999 as promised. Again, I
> would like to thank everyone that made a generous contribution in 1999
> to support the continued operation of these email Lists. Your support
> directly makes the quality and quantity of this service possible.
>
> Thank you!
>
> Matt Dralle
> EMail List Administrator
> RV-4 Builder, #1763 - N442RV
>
>
> =================== 1999 List of Contributors #2 ===================
>
>
> Adamson, Arden
> Allender, Patrick
> Anonymous from MN
> Asher, M.E.
> Baxter, Rob
> Bell, Doug
> Bendure, Ryan
> Bergh, David
> Berrie, Robert
> Blake, J.I.
> Boucher, Michel
> Bragg, Medford
> Briegleb, Ross
> Brietigam, Charles
> Broomell, Glenn
> Brusilow, Michael
> Chatham, Robert
> Clary, Buck
> Coats, Lonnie
> Cook, Craig - Golf Instruments Co.
> Cooper, James
> Cribb, William Jr.
> Crosby, Harry
> Dane, Bill Von
> Dziewiontkoski, Bob
> Ellenberger, Mike
> Embree, Roger
> Faatz, Mitch
> Fasching, John
> Gibbons, Robert
> Glauser, David
> Gold, Andy -Builder's Bookstore 10%
> Gregory, Steve
> Grenier, Raymond
> Guarino, Michael
> H., Harold - E.P.M.AV Corp
> Hale, Brian
> Hunt, Wallace
> Johnston, Leroy
> Jordon, Don
> Killion, Clay
> Klingmuller, Dr. L.M.
> Magaw, David
> Mains, Ralph
> Maltby, Michael
> Martin, Cliff - Martin Metal Fab
> Mazataud, Hyun Sook
> McBride, Duncan
> McDonald, James
> Mendenhall, Elbie - E.M Aviation
> Mitchell, Duane
> Morley, Harold
> Peck, Phil
> Pessel, Garnett
> Rodebush, James
> Ross, Jonathan
> Schmidt, John
> Scully, William
> Smith, Steven
> Spence, Stephen
> Triff, Wes
> Wagoner, Richard
> Weaver, Brian
> Wiegenstein, John
> Wiley, Robert
> Wilson, Donald
>
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
>On another subject does any body know what is the correct part number for
>the sensenich prop for an 0-320 engine 160 HP.
For a -6A Sensenich part number (pitch)
bolt size 3/8 70CM6S9-0(78)
bolt size 7/16 70CM7S9-0(78)
All on page 5 of Van's accessory catalog
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight - RV-6A (N110KB) |
Bill & Kathy,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing canopy skirt)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Denny,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing canopy)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight N540JT |
JAN,
WELL DONE & CONGRATULATIONS !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing canopy)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
For those in the early stages of building, I've updated my site to include a few
pictures of the HS as well as updated and final pictures of the Rudder, elevator
progress (I'm building both at the same time) and some pictures of various tools
around the shop.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
Mike
http://mnellis.jnet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Naca air vent |
Under the wing is a popular place too. Check the RV-8 plans for locations. I
installed two on my RV-4 with good results. These vents are the NACA vents--"not
the in the airstream vents" that you are refering to. The standard NACA vent is
used with a "air eyeball" & short run of tubing. I elected not to use the
adjustable ones because of the cheesey plastic threads of the adjusting
screw---I saw many stripped threads on installed units...especially where you
tighten down the vent cover...it seems that you can over tighten the thumb screw
very easy and then a seal is impossible to achieve........
BumFlyer(at)aol.com on 01/15/2000 08:44:15 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Naca air vent
In a message dated 1/14/0 22:04:23, glide303(at)southwind.net writes:
<< >> >
>> > Hello,
>> >
>> > We are trying to improve the ventilation on a
>> > mid-wing airplane (non-RV). I
>> > am considering the installation of a "Van's NACA
>> > ventilation system" as it
>> > seems to work very well in the RV-4. The only flat
>> > surface to mount it on
>> > is just in front of the wing leading edge. Does
>> > anyone know what the
>> > pressure gradient is in the location on a typical
>> > aircraft (If there is
>> > such a thing). Any insight would be appreciated.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> > >>
Sounds like an ideal situation where the LV air vent would work. These nifty
little gizmos look easier to install than the naca and will work anywhere
since they reach out and grab the air, yet are flush when retracted. Van' s
sell them I believe or check with Vetterman
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
One vote for toward the end of the project because aafter you mount your wings,
flaps & ailerons & then adjust the stops & throws & complete allignment...at
aileron nuetral you may find the tips trailing end NOT in allignment with your
ailerons. Also, strobes, landing lights & position lights wires & power supplies
& wiring may be easier without the tips.
Finally, moving the wing is easier without the tips installed (harder on your
hands because of the thin metal but you have a better grip without the tips)
gyoung@cs-sol.com on 01/14/2000 08:49:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fiberglass tips
I deferred the tips until late and would NOT do it again. I did the
empennage tips, wing tips and tail fairing all together and it seemed I was
up to my a.. in fiberglass for way too long. In hindsight I should have done
it in small doses.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) 90% done, 90% to go
> Do most builders attach the fiberglass tips to their various
> empennage pieces
> before going on to the wing kit, or later on in conjunction with final
> assembly?
>
> I guess I'm just looking for a consensus that will justify my
> putting it off
> for now, as I'm absolutely dreading the fiberglass work. :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First flight - RV-6A (N110KB) |
How great it is to hear about first flights "CONGRATULATIONS" is it great or
what.Terry E. Cole taxi testing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A tip-up canopy frame fit.(Long) |
The struts are
> applying a bending moment about the pivot points. I think & hope that
> fiber glassing from the side splices around the front will stiffen it up.
The fiberglassing there will make a difference, but also make sure you
fiberglass the forward channel. This really stiffens the frame up.
> 1> Should I remove the prime for the fiber glassing?
No. You can just rough it up with some 80 grit.
> 2> Should I try to fiberglass the front , then clamp the assembly back on
> with the spacers & cleco the skin on to help hold the shape. I still need
> to paint the skin & frame. Never heard of clecoing through wet glass.
Glassing the leading edge should be the last thing that you do. I assume
you have already cut the canopy in two. If so, you should drill the canopy
top to the bow on the canopy frame, starting at the center and moving
outward. Also, view my website, there is a tip that shows little metal
clips made to keep the leading edge of the canopy down. Then the sides
should be pushed in and trimmed. Then they can be drilled to the side
frame.
>
> If this holds the strut loads, I will have to refit the canopy skin to
> the fwd skin again. When should I rivet the skin on? after all the filing
> again?
>
Time to back up. If you are talking about the canopy forward skin, and not
the forward fuselage skin, you should have everything riveted together
before you start the plexi. Cleco's are fine for assembly, but things can
change when you rivet. If you follow Wil Cresinger's canopy notes, you
can't go wrong. His notes are extremely helpful in this area. Also, don't
worry about the struts pushing the sides out too much, because that will
relax a little with the plexi in, because you have to push the sides in to
drill. You may have a 1/16" overhang instead of a 3/8".
While many builders have done the frame in 4-5 hours (Sam!) and some have
spent 20-30, it goes different each time. I know this because I built two
canopy frames myself, and it took me two to get it right. If you find that
it is just not coming together right, it would be better to spend $150 on
parts to build a new frame than $1000 on a new bubble that you messed up
from a bad frame!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
> Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
>
****************************************************************************
**
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Thumb rules - was: How to run out of longeron stock |
Good morning,
I reminded us all of this old rule:
> >Always cut from the shortest piece you have.
Had my brain not been freshly wetted with some pretty good for the price
Turning Leaf Merlot,
I would have thought more before sending. I've built several wooden things
where the rule was a bad rule as it also appears to be for RVs. Now that
I think, it might very well pay for a carpenter, up on the roof, to cut a
short piece from a long one rather than waste time going down and looking
around!
A better rule for us might be "layout everything before cutting anything"
which is really hard if you don't know what you have to layout. Maybe
factory cutting would be appropriate here.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | 6A tip-up canopy frame fit. |
I may not be able to answer all of your questions, but here's a stab at it:
I applied the foam and fiberglass to stiffen the front of the canopy frame
(per Will Cressinger's notes) to bare and roughed up aluminum. I primed
afterwards.
I riveted the skin on before doing the fiberglass and foam stiffening. That
made the whole thing easier to manage and stiffer, too. I too had to refit
the front top skin, and I still don't particularly like how it fits. I may
do it a third time.
I did not have the problem that you are having with the struts forcing the
frame forward. I had a different problem and one that I do not recall
others discussing. After I got the frame and struts and foam and fiberglass
all together, the frame fit the fuselage very well. After I got the plexi
cut and clecoed in place I found that the spring in the plexi had forced the
frame to be about 1/8 to 3/16 inch too wide. In other words, my canopy side
skins overlap the sides of the fuselage.
There are a lot of moving parts in this tip up canopy.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A panel, wiring & plumbing
-----Original Message-----
I have the frame primed & the canopy skin drilled & dempled.
1> Should I remove the prime for the fiber glassing?
2> Should I try to fiberglass the front , then clamp the
assembly back on
with the spacers & cleco the skin on to help hold the shape.
I still need
to paint the skin & frame. Never heard of clecoing through
wet glass.
If this holds the strut loads, I will have to refit the
canopy skin to
the fwd skin again. When should I rivet the skin on? after
all the filing
again?
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
****************************************************************************
**
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Super Korporon Primer blanket order - Milwaukee Area |
Milwaukee area listers:
I have been having trouble finding someone who would sell me a MIL-P-23377F
primer because of the current EPA VOC regs. PPG is currently out-of-stock
and their price list shows it as discontinued (although I was told that they
will be manufacturing a special order batch at the end of this month - the
price will be about $150 for a kit with 1 gal of primer and 1 gal of
hardener).
Thanks to Pat Hatch's message last week about the Courtaulds/Desoto version
of this primer, I finally had luck with the Midwest sales office of
PRC-Desoto. They have a 1 gallon kit available (makes 2 gallons of primer)
for $89.78 + S&H + Hazard fee. However they have a minimum product order of
$100. I was just going to order a single kit for $100 but then I thought
that I should check the RV list to see if anyone else in the Milwaukee area
(I am about 30 miles west of Milwaukee) would want to add their own 1 gallon
kit to this order and split the total cost equally. If so, please let me
know ASAP. I have just faxed PRC/Desoto my company info in order to get an
account set up with them (they don't sell to the public) and expect to get
the account approved and the order placed by tomorrow (1/18/00).
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
Waiting for RV-9A empennage kit
-----Original Message-----
Super Korporon is made by Courtalulds Aerospace, the same company that makes
Proseal (PRC) and other sealants. It is marketed under the DeSoto brand
name. The mil spec number is the key here: MIL-P-23377F Type I Class I.
Part numbers are 513X390 and 910X624 for the hardner. Phone number is (770)
429-9998.
A one gallon kit runs about $85, is a 1:1 epoxy primer, so a 1-gallon kit
makes two gallons of primer. They have two versions: the yellow is for
non-skydrol applications and the green for skydrol. Skydrol is a very
corrosive hydraulic fluid used in some jet aircraft. I used the yellow on
my RV-6. One bit of advice is to keep the application as light as possible.
You should be able to see the aluminum under the primer. Used by many
aerospace manufacturers such as Gulfstream, etc.
Pat Hatch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | 6A tip-up canopy frame fit. |
>I applied the foam and fiberglass to stiffen the front of the canopy
>frame (per Will Cressinger's notes) to bare and roughed up aluminum. I
>primed afterwards. I riveted the skin on before doing the fiberglass and
foam stiffening.
====================================
I thought the f/g came before the riveting of the skin on. If I rivet the
skin on, then do I lay up just over the top,bottom & aft area of the
forward channel?
> That made the whole thing easier to manage and stiffer, too. I too had
to
>refit the front top skin, and I still don't particularly like how it
fits.
>I may do it a third time.
>I did not have the problem that you are having with the struts forcing
>the frame forward. I had a different problem and one that I do not
recall
>others discussing. After I got the frame and struts and foam and
>fiberglass all together, the frame fit the fuselage very well. After I
got the
>plexi cut and clecoed in place I found that the spring in the plexi had
>forced the frame to be about 1/8 to 3/16 inch too wide. In other words,
my
>canopy side skins overlap the sides of the fuselage.
==========================================
Do you recommend an inside fixture to hold the sides in while drilling &
fitting the plexi. Wonder if that would help?
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
>
>There are a lot of moving parts in this tip up canopy.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>RV-6A panel, wiring & plumbing
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have the frame primed & the canopy skin drilled &
>dempled.
>
>
> 1> Should I remove the prime for the fiber glassing?
> 2> Should I try to fiberglass the front , then clamp
>the
>assembly back on
> with the spacers & cleco the skin on to help hold the
>shape.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
I was reading in the construction manual last night and came across some of
the painting ideas that van has. It mentioned using Imron over plain
Alodine without a base primer. Has anyone tried this with PPG Concept?
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
It all came together yesterday. After 3900 building hrs and 4 years, RV-6
#24187 is now flying. Words can't describe the feelings of accomplishment
of flying this plane. Truly a good day.
All went well, but it was a very busy first 10 seconds. I forfeited the
high speed taxi test because I wanted to minimize ground running with my new
engine. So on takeoff, I started slowly so I can react if the airspeed
didn't move or the uMonitor indicated something screwy. At 1/3 throttle,
the RV wanted to fly. Not wanting a partial power liftoff, I briskly moved
the throttle in and centered the stick. The acceleration makes me grin just
thinking about it, :-) At 100 ft up, the prop surged a couple times; by I
expected some burping because I read not to cycle the prop on the ground on
the new engine. Then the tower calls in and compliments the paint job.
What a time to talk about building airplanes. I gave him a quick Thanks,
and then he told me to switch freq. I then stared at the GX-65, that freq.
was not the two already loaded. I picked out freqs. quickly on the ground
from the info page, but damned if I could in the heat of things. So I
flipped the dials manually and settled down for 1.3 hrs of cruising around
the airport. I throttled back and looked at the tach and throttled back
some more. Then looked and the airspeed and thought stupid me, I ain't
flying the Champ anymore. Throttle in th 24 in. and pulled the prop back.
First time up with a CS prop. The left wing was slightly heavy and the ball
very close to centered. Not bad for a first time builder. A friend
overheard my call and came to fly chase in his C182. No way could he catch
me. GPS said 155 to 165 kts. Power was set at 24" and 2400 rpm. Fuel was
10.5 gph, CHT was 200 C, oil at 84 psi and don't remember the oil temp.
After 1.2 hrs, I slowed down and did some turns at 65 kts. Then I slowed to
about 55 kts. It got mushy but didn't drop. I lowered the nose and then
headed on in. Not knowing how much added drag I'd get with the CS prop, I
kept a little power in until over the concrete. Landing was a little sloppy
because of some bad crosswind technique, but the -6 tamed it down well.
Yes, it was a good day.
Some stats:
RV-6 #24187 N136RC Sliding canopy, 3900 building hrs from 12/95
New O-320 D1A & CS prop with homemade fiberglass cooling plenum
S-cowl, fiberglass duct to firewall mounted oil cooler
2 piece pants, Al. leg fairings, homemade other fairings incld emp.
Carbon fiber panel overlay, basic VFR instr. w/ T&B, RMI uMonitor, Appollo
GX-65 GPS/Com, KT96A Xponder, Flush glovebox w/ fuse access
B&C & Aeroelctric electrical system & Orndorff seats
No insulation or carpet yet
PPG Concept paint, all parts alodined & AZKO primed before riveting
Weight 1047#
and one proud owner!
Rick Caldwell
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Rick it sounds like you did everything right. Congrats. Now if I could
get off my duff and do a little building perhaps I could get mine a
little closer to completion.
Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> It all came together yesterday. After 3900 building hrs and 4 years, RV-6
> #24187 is now flying. Words can't describe the feelings of accomplishment
> of flying this plane. Truly a good day.
>
> All went well, but it was a very busy first 10 seconds. I forfeited the
> high speed taxi test because I wanted to minimize ground running with my new
> engine. So on takeoff, I started slowly so I can react if the airspeed
> didn't move or the uMonitor indicated something screwy. At 1/3 throttle,
> the RV wanted to fly. Not wanting a partial power liftoff, I briskly moved
> the throttle in and centered the stick. The acceleration makes me grin just
> thinking about it, :-) At 100 ft up, the prop surged a couple times; by I
> expected some burping because I read not to cycle the prop on the ground on
> the new engine. Then the tower calls in and compliments the paint job.
> What a time to talk about building airplanes. I gave him a quick Thanks,
> and then he told me to switch freq. I then stared at the GX-65, that freq.
> was not the two already loaded. I picked out freqs. quickly on the ground
> from the info page, but damned if I could in the heat of things. So I
> flipped the dials manually and settled down for 1.3 hrs of cruising around
> the airport. I throttled back and looked at the tach and throttled back
> some more. Then looked and the airspeed and thought stupid me, I ain't
> flying the Champ anymore. Throttle in th 24 in. and pulled the prop back.
> First time up with a CS prop. The left wing was slightly heavy and the ball
> very close to centered. Not bad for a first time builder. A friend
> overheard my call and came to fly chase in his C182. No way could he catch
> me. GPS said 155 to 165 kts. Power was set at 24" and 2400 rpm. Fuel was
> 10.5 gph, CHT was 200 C, oil at 84 psi and don't remember the oil temp.
> After 1.2 hrs, I slowed down and did some turns at 65 kts. Then I slowed to
> about 55 kts. It got mushy but didn't drop. I lowered the nose and then
> headed on in. Not knowing how much added drag I'd get with the CS prop, I
> kept a little power in until over the concrete. Landing was a little sloppy
> because of some bad crosswind technique, but the -6 tamed it down well.
> Yes, it was a good day.
>
> Some stats:
> RV-6 #24187 N136RC Sliding canopy, 3900 building hrs from 12/95
> New O-320 D1A & CS prop with homemade fiberglass cooling plenum
> S-cowl, fiberglass duct to firewall mounted oil cooler
> 2 piece pants, Al. leg fairings, homemade other fairings incld emp.
> Carbon fiber panel overlay, basic VFR instr. w/ T&B, RMI uMonitor, Appollo
> GX-65 GPS/Com, KT96A Xponder, Flush glovebox w/ fuse access
> B&C & Aeroelctric electrical system & Orndorff seats
> No insulation or carpet yet
> PPG Concept paint, all parts alodined & AZKO primed before riveting
> Weight 1047#
> and one proud owner!
>
> Rick Caldwell
> Melbourne, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | 6A tip-up canopy frame fit. |
Don,
Sam Buchanan has a good photo on his web site of what the front of my tip up
canopy frame looked like during the foam and fiberglass stage. I think this
is something where a photo is worth a thousand words. Go to
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/finish.html to see it. It is on page
one of his "Finishing Kit" pages. He used plywood instead of foam, by the
way. His is an awful lot neater than mine turned out, too.
As for the tendency of the plexi to make the frame too wide, I think that on
my next RV-6 (yeah right!) I will make the frame a tad too narrow to begin
with and let the plexi bow it out ... like factoring in some springback.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
I thought the f/g came before the riveting of the skin on.
If I rivet the
skin on, then do I lay up just over the top,bottom & aft
area of the
forward channel?
Do you recommend an inside fixture to hold the sides in
while drilling &
fitting the plexi. Wonder if that would help?
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
****************************************************************************
**
>
>There are a lot of moving parts in this tip up canopy.
>
>Steve Soule
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Congratulations Rick!!!
Great looking a/c even before finished!
Sorry you had to wait when it was ready to go!!
R. H. Dudley
Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> It all came together yesterday. After 3900 building hrs and 4 years, RV-6
> #24187 is now flying. Words can't describe the feelings of accomplishment
> of flying this plane. Truly a good day.
>
> All went well, but it was a very busy first 10 seconds. I forfeited the
> high speed taxi test because I wanted to minimize ground running with my new
> engine. So on takeoff, I started slowly so I can react if the airspeed
> didn't move or the uMonitor indicated something screwy. At 1/3 throttle,
> the RV wanted to fly. Not wanting a partial power liftoff, I briskly moved
> the throttle in and centered the stick. The acceleration makes me grin just
> thinking about it, :-) At 100 ft up, the prop surged a couple times; by I
> expected some burping because I read not to cycle the prop on the ground on
> the new engine. Then the tower calls in and compliments the paint job.
> What a time to talk about building airplanes. I gave him a quick Thanks,
> and then he told me to switch freq. I then stared at the GX-65, that freq.
> was not the two already loaded. I picked out freqs. quickly on the ground
> from the info page, but damned if I could in the heat of things. So I
> flipped the dials manually and settled down for 1.3 hrs of cruising around
> the airport. I throttled back and looked at the tach and throttled back
> some more. Then looked and the airspeed and thought stupid me, I ain't
> flying the Champ anymore. Throttle in th 24 in. and pulled the prop back.
> First time up with a CS prop. The left wing was slightly heavy and the ball
> very close to centered. Not bad for a first time builder. A friend
> overheard my call and came to fly chase in his C182. No way could he catch
> me. GPS said 155 to 165 kts. Power was set at 24" and 2400 rpm. Fuel was
> 10.5 gph, CHT was 200 C, oil at 84 psi and don't remember the oil temp.
> After 1.2 hrs, I slowed down and did some turns at 65 kts. Then I slowed to
> about 55 kts. It got mushy but didn't drop. I lowered the nose and then
> headed on in. Not knowing how much added drag I'd get with the CS prop, I
> kept a little power in until over the concrete. Landing was a little sloppy
> because of some bad crosswind technique, but the -6 tamed it down well.
> Yes, it was a good day.
>
> Some stats:
> RV-6 #24187 N136RC Sliding canopy, 3900 building hrs from 12/95
> New O-320 D1A & CS prop with homemade fiberglass cooling plenum
> S-cowl, fiberglass duct to firewall mounted oil cooler
> 2 piece pants, Al. leg fairings, homemade other fairings incld emp.
> Carbon fiber panel overlay, basic VFR instr. w/ T&B, RMI uMonitor, Appollo
> GX-65 GPS/Com, KT96A Xponder, Flush glovebox w/ fuse access
> B&C & Aeroelctric electrical system & Orndorff seats
> No insulation or carpet yet
> PPG Concept paint, all parts alodined & AZKO primed before riveting
> Weight 1047#
> and one proud owner!
>
> Rick Caldwell
> Melbourne, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A tip-up canopy frame fit. |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Hi Don, I know what you are going through on the canopy issue. You do
need to fiberglass the forward section of the tipup, it will help the
reduce the bending movement. You should fiberglass to bare metal, Rough
metal with sandpaper before fiberglassing. And one last item, I have seen
some people use a stop just in front of the strut mount on the tipup to
prevent the strut from pushing the canopy forward. David Ahrens, RV-6A
fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Sensenich Propeller |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Hi, This is just a note on the Sensenich propeller question. I just
ordered my propeller, for a 0-320-160hp engine and RV-6A airframe. Before
deciding on which pitch to order I called Vans, they recommended I call
Sensenich which I did. The bottom line is the recommendation from
Sensenich is not the same as listed in Vans catalog. Sensenich
Recommended a 70CM7S9-0-79 for my engine where the catalog recommended a
70CM7S9-0-78. You will find a chart of the Sensenich recommended
propellers on their web site, www.sensenich.com David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Sensenich Propeller |
Dave: Thanks for the update on the propeller. You come up with the same
answer I did after talking to Sensenich. I think I will order the same one
you ordered. Thanks for the reply.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB -N602RV Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 4:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:Sensenich Propeller
>
> Hi, This is just a note on the Sensenich propeller question. I just
> ordered my propeller, for a 0-320-160hp engine and RV-6A airframe. Before
> deciding on which pitch to order I called Vans, they recommended I call
> Sensenich which I did. The bottom line is the recommendation from
> Sensenich is not the same as listed in Vans catalog. Sensenich
> Recommended a 70CM7S9-0-79 for my engine where the catalog recommended a
> 70CM7S9-0-78. You will find a chart of the Sensenich recommended
> propellers on their web site, www.sensenich.com David Ahrens
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for inside battery box |
That is the stuff! Tuff stuff!
-----Original Message-----
From: marcel de ruiter <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for inside battery box
>
>
>> It is not a paint, but when I was a helicopter mechanic for PHI in the
>gulf
>> they mixed 2216 adhesive (it's thin) and painted the box area. It takes
>>snip
>
>I take this is EC2216,scotchweld adhesive made by 3M.
>If it is I can tell you we use this stuff to fill pinholes in B737
>rudderskins
>made out of composite.there would be a Boeing spec for it in that case.
>
>M de Ruiter
>RV4/G-RVMJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jfarrar1" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Electroair ignition |
Can anyone on the list please confirm for me that the amp load for Jeff
Rose's ignition is .75amp? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved,
Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage
interior and wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Nose Gear Assembly |
On 16 Jan 00, at 22:10, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> Unless Van's has changed the geometry, the gear fork has the stop screw
> holes set at an included angle of about 210 degrees and the radii centers
> of the stop ears are about 80 degrees. The stop ears face forward, so
> (doing the math) the stops should allow the nose gear to pivot 65 degrees
> on either side of center. If you have significantly more or less travel,
> there's something wrong.
I stand corrected. I checked my nose wheel travel tonight and it is just
under 90 degrees either side of center.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Northwest Connection" <fly737(at)earthlink.net> |
I was wondering if anyone could provide me with some recommendations on
where I can get a custom canopy made to order -- somewhere in the Northwest
would be best. Thanks.
Ted Burke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Vetterman Exhaust Supports |
Listers,
I already know I am mister break it when it breaks for no one else, but has
anyone else had trouble with the exhaust support pieces in the otherwise
excellent Vetterman exhaust pipe kit?
In about 120 hours I have had the adell clamps break four different times
and one of the flattened steel tubing pieces break once. Is it an
installation or a materials problem?
My only ideas on solutions at this point are heavier wall steel tubing and
some kind of two piece plumbing part to replace the aluminum adell clamps.
Now that I think I have replaced all the troublesome cowl hinges on my
airplane, this seems to be the next part that I am always having to fix when
I would much rather be flying. Whee!
On every preflight I am dreading the shaking of the exhaust pipes.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Questions re: RV-6 horizontal stabilizer rear spar |
Hokay, here it is, my first crayon-level construction question:
Dwg 3PP shows how the HS-603 rear spars and the HS-609 flange strips go together
(second drawing from
the top on the left side of the page). It shows that the third hole from the center
of the rear spar
on the LOWER flange strip is to be drilled in assembly with the F-811. That hole
is not pre-drilled
and I know I have to wait to drill it later. However, the drawing also shows a
hole directly above
that one (in the upper flange strip), no remarks about it, and it too is NOT pre-drilled.
My
question: do I go ahead and drill it now?"
Other question: on page 6-3, the instructions say to "Locate the rivet holes in
the rear spar that
will attach the HS-606...Put tape over them to prevent accidentally riveting these
holes before the rib
are attached." The drawing shows the holes (at the outboard end of each spar),
but they are not
pre-drilled. ? Did I miss something earlier, or is that a mistake in the directions?
On a lighter note: I did OK on most of the -7 rivets that attach the flange strips
to the spars.
However, on the last two I got a bit overconfident and didn't put enough pressure
on the rivet gun, and
the rivet set bounced around a bit. One rivet has the infamous "smiley." The
other one...well...I
believe we need to inaugurate a term to describe the appearance of a rivet that
has been bashed good
and proper...the word "MASHIE" come to mind! :-)
Semper Fi
John Lawson
FINALLY rolling along on the empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Custom Canopies |
Ted,
Try Gee Bee Canopies at Pierce County Airport, Puyuallup, Wa, phone #
253-841-4614.
Bill Bruton
RV-8 Wings and stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 F-826, 827 & 842 gotcha |
Hi guys and gals,
I'm drilling the skins to my RV-8 fuselage, and had a minor gotcha
tonight. Not a real big deal, but I sure wish I could do it all over
again, knowing what I know now.
I drilled the F-826 & F-827 bottom center skins. They cleco to the
F-804 at the front, and then just sit on top of the seat ribs until
you drill and cleco them. So far so good (so I thought). Then I
grabbed the F-842 aft bottom skin, and slipped it under the F-826 &
F-827. It has match holes that are supposed to match up with holes
at the aft end of the F-826 & F-827. Well, I quickly discovered that
I couldn't match up with both the F-826 & F-827 at the same time. It
turns out that there is enough slop in the holes clecoed at the front
of the F-826 & F-827 to let the aft ends move slightly. I ended up
with the aft ends of the F-826 & 827 about 3/32 inch too close
together, i.e. the holes that should match up with the F-842 were
3/32 too close together.
How do you prevent this from happening? Well, I would do two things
differently if I could do it all over again. First, when drilling
the F-822 (or F-890 for the -8A), I wouldn't drill out the holes that
hold it to the F-804. Those are the holes that you cleco the F-826 &
827 to, so you will get a tighter fit if they are not drilled out
yet. You have to drill them again when fitting the F-826 & 827
anyway, so there is no point in doing them when fitting the F-822.
Second, when drilling the F-826 & 827, I would consider clecoing them
to the F-804, and then putting the F-842 in place, clecoing the match
holes in it to the F-826 & 827. Then I would drill the center hole
at the aft edge of the F-826 & F-827 to lock them together. That way
you have a reference to make sure that the match holes on the aft
edges of the F-826 & 827 are right distance apart when fitting the
F-842.
Anyway, it wasn't a big disaster. I drilled a couple of extra holes
to compensate for the figure 8 ones I've got now. It is on the
bottom of the fuselage, and if I catch any of you guys crawling under
there to take a look I might accidentally step on your hand to
distract you :-)
I think I will send a note to Van's. They could solve the hole
problem by putting a hole at the aft end of the F-827 to match up
with the line of holes down the inboard edge of the F-826. Failing
that, the Construction Manual should not tell you to drill the aft
edge of the F-822 to the F-804 too early.
Still having fun,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | How NOT to Mix Epoxy Primers |
I know this is an old thread from December, but I have to relate my
first experience in mixing the Akzo epoxy primer for those who may be
thinking about using it, especially since everything I did was a mistake
of some sort. I decided to use Chinet plastic cups to measure equal
amounts of the primer and the converter (mistake #1). I used a couple
of cheap plastic basters to extract the primer and converter (mistake
#2) and then used a plastic measuring cup to contain the mixture while
it cross-linked (mistake #3). Well, I measured the primer first into a
Chinet plastic cup. I noted that after I did this, I couldn't read the
level inside the baster, since the primer coated it on the inside. Hard
to use this again...duh. Next, I measured the converter into another
Chinet plastic cup. While I was adding this, I noticed the converter
turning red (hint: the color of the cup) and the bottom fell out of the
cup...converter all over my workbench! Well, I was well protected with
a respirator, two pairs of rubber gloves, long sleeves and pants and eye
protection, but boy was I unhappy. I cleaned this up, grabbed my
plastic measuring cup and put more converter in it and picked up the cup
containing the primer...the bottom of that fell out! Now, I had green,
goopy glop all over my workbench. Well, I cleaned that up and used the
baster which had previously been used to measure the converter to
measure out the primer and added this to the measuring cup, stirred it
up and covered it for cross-linking. 30 minutes later, came back,
poured it into the spray gun...then noticed that the inside of the
measuring cup had been eaten away too.
The happy ending is that I did get all wing ribs, rear spar and other
parts primed and the Akzo primer is outstanding...went on well, no runs,
dried quickly and is truly bullet proof...I threw away the plastic cups,
the basters, the ruined plastic measuring cup and a ruined trash can
(courtesy of the primer clean up project). Bought a stainless steel one
cup measuring scoop and a glass measuring cup...from that point on, no
problems. Moral of the story? Think about what you're putting this
stuff into...I have some lovely lime green splotches on the workbench to
remind me!
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
Done priming, now to build wing skeletons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LaurenMWilliams(at)webtv.net (Lauren Williams) |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Custom Canopies |
Isn't Gee Bee Canopies in the Northwest somewhere?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions re: RV-6 horizontal stabilizer rear spar |
See my notes below. Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 8:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Questions re: RV-6 horizontal stabilizer rear spar
>
> Hokay, here it is, my first crayon-level construction question:
>
> Dwg 3PP shows how the HS-603 rear spars and the HS-609 flange strips go
together (second drawing from
> the top on the left side of the page). It shows that the third hole from
the center of the rear spar
> on the LOWER flange strip is to be drilled in assembly with the F-811.
That hole is not pre-drilled
> and I know I have to wait to drill it later. However, the drawing also
shows a hole directly above
> that one (in the upper flange strip), no remarks about it, and it too is
NOT pre-drilled. My
> question: do I go ahead and drill it now?"
I left the top hole undrilled, I'm thinking that there will be a bolt there
but I'm still closing up my wings.
>
> Other question: on page 6-3, the instructions say to "Locate the rivet
holes in the rear spar that
> will attach the HS-606...Put tape over them to prevent accidentally
riveting these holes before the rib
> are attached." The drawing shows the holes (at the outboard end of each
spar), but they are not
> pre-drilled. ? Did I miss something earlier, or is that a mistake in the
directions?
I don't think you did. Drill pilot holes in the rear HS-606 rib flange,
clamp to the spar and then back drill through the rib into the spar with a
long aircraft drill.
>
> On a lighter note: I did OK on most of the -7 rivets that attach the
flange strips to the spars.
> However, on the last two I got a bit overconfident and didn't put enough
pressure on the rivet gun, and
> the rivet set bounced around a bit. One rivet has the infamous "smiley."
The other one...well...I
> believe we need to inaugurate a term to describe the appearance of a rivet
that has been bashed good
> and proper...the word "MASHIE" come to mind! :-)
I'd drill them out, you'll have to learn how sometime, might as well be now.
I also used my C-frame riveting tool for these. Set the spar up level
across the die and smak them in or do like me and use your rivet gun on the
dowel with the turned down end (the one with the smaller diameter at the
end - mine from Avery's came with this). Also, I learned later that the
manufactured head should be on the thinner material when riveting two
different thickness together. Not sure why, but the do turn out better.
>
> Semper Fi
> John Lawson
> FINALLY rolling along on the empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman Exhaust Supports |
In a message dated 1/17/00 7:14:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
<< I already know I am mister break it when it breaks for no one else, but has
anyone else had trouble with the exhaust support pieces in the otherwise
excellent Vetterman exhaust pipe kit? >>
Do you have old Lord mounts and/or have you not had your prop dynamically
balanced? Vibration high enough to break the exhaust hangers can't be good
for the service life of the rest of the airframe. Do you have a saddle brace
that ties the two pipes across together.
Try changing the tubes to 6061-T6 or similar flat aluminum bar stock (1" x
.125" c/s) and see if they survive any better. Bend a foot on the bottom for
the pipe clamp. Mine have 270 hrs on them and they are just as new.
As for Adel clamps, I would not use them for supporting the exhaust pipe.
You might have better results with a T-bolt clamp (McMaster-Carr p/n 5312K11).
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
In a message dated 1/17/00 7:49:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jfarrar1(at)home.com writes:
<< Can anyone on the list please confirm for me that the amp load for Jeff
Rose's ignition is .75amp? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved,
Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage
interior and wiring. >>
I've asked Jeff Rose this question. He never quite answered it (this dawned
on me after the 'phone conversation was over), but said to use a 5 to 10 amp
breaker... This information is included in the manual.
Hope this gives you the info you need.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 Hacking up the firewall...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How NOT to Mix Epoxy Primers |
Oh man, I'm still laughing. God that is so funny because I'm sure EVERYONE
who has EVER used such stuff has done something or other like that. :)
Except for me.....naturally. Well, not more than once......per day....
Hehe, now I'm a glassing expert but there was this time I when......oh no,
we'll skip that.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 11:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: How NOT to Mix Epoxy Primers
>
> I know this is an old thread from December, but I have to relate my
> first experience in mixing the Akzo epoxy primer for those who may be
> thinking about using it, especially since everything I did was a mistake
> of some sort. I decided to use Chinet plastic cups to measure equal
> amounts of the primer and the converter (mistake #1). I used a couple
> of cheap plastic basters to extract the primer and converter (mistake
> #2) and then used a plastic measuring cup to contain the mixture while
> it cross-linked (mistake #3). Well, I measured the primer first into a
> Chinet plastic cup. I noted that after I did this, I couldn't read the
> level inside the baster, since the primer coated it on the inside. Hard
> to use this again...duh. Next, I measured the converter into another
> Chinet plastic cup. While I was adding this, I noticed the converter
> turning red (hint: the color of the cup) and the bottom fell out of the
> cup...converter all over my workbench! Well, I was well protected with
> a respirator, two pairs of rubber gloves, long sleeves and pants and eye
> protection, but boy was I unhappy. I cleaned this up, grabbed my
> plastic measuring cup and put more converter in it and picked up the cup
> containing the primer...the bottom of that fell out! Now, I had green,
> goopy glop all over my workbench. Well, I cleaned that up and used the
> baster which had previously been used to measure the converter to
> measure out the primer and added this to the measuring cup, stirred it
> up and covered it for cross-linking. 30 minutes later, came back,
> poured it into the spray gun...then noticed that the inside of the
> measuring cup had been eaten away too.
>
> The happy ending is that I did get all wing ribs, rear spar and other
> parts primed and the Akzo primer is outstanding...went on well, no runs,
> dried quickly and is truly bullet proof...I threw away the plastic cups,
> the basters, the ruined plastic measuring cup and a ruined trash can
> (courtesy of the primer clean up project). Bought a stainless steel one
> cup measuring scoop and a glass measuring cup...from that point on, no
> problems. Moral of the story? Think about what you're putting this
> stuff into...I have some lovely lime green splotches on the workbench to
> remind me!
>
> Mark Dickens
> Germantown, TN
> Done priming, now to build wing skeletons
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Attach Bracket |
The aluminum angle where the rudder cables attach sure looks like a
candidate for quick wear at the cable bolt holes. Has anyone had any
experience with this? It seems that a couple of case-hardened bushings
could extend the life of this part. Maybe it holds up better than it looks
like it would.
George Armstrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
Did I see a thread that someone found a sight for the program to put an
HP12C on a Palm Organizer.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Attach Bracket |
In a message dated 1/17/00 9:45:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
armstrong(at)coastside.net writes:
<< The aluminum angle where the rudder cables attach sure looks like a
candidate for quick wear at the cable bolt holes. Has anyone had any
experience with this? It seems that a couple of case-hardened bushings
could extend the life of this part. >>
I installed some stainless steel swaged ferrules that I had laying around in
the rudder angle for the bolt to wear on. I think they will last forever
since my feet are mainly on the rudder only during taxi, takeoff and landing.
You butt-dragger guys with the steering tailwheels are putting more of a
load on the rudder cables and might really benefit from bushings.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)attglobal.net> |
Rick congratuations on your first flight. It is just so cool to be reading
about all these first flights recently. After 3900 hours you have got to be
very pleased. Looking forward to my time in the sun. Congratulations again.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (fuse)
Olcott, NY
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
@hotmail.com>
>
> It all came together yesterday. After 3900 building hrs and 4 years, RV-6
> #24187 is now flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry Clifford <bjc(at)btconnect.com> |
| Subject: | New RV site in the UK |
Many thanks to all the rv-listers that have visited our new RV site in the
UK www.rv6.co.uk/rvindex.htm .Also thank you for the many emails of support
and kind comments we have received.
European RV builders & flyers now have a page at www.rv6.co.uk/r3.htm and we
would be glad to here from them.
best regards to all rv-listers
Barry Clifford
RV6A wings
barryclifford(at)btconnect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman Exhaust Supports |
>
>In a message dated 1/17/00 7:14:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
>
><< I already know I am mister break it when it breaks for no one else, but
has
> anyone else had trouble with the exhaust support pieces in the otherwise
> excellent Vetterman exhaust pipe kit? >>
>
>Do you have old Lord mounts and/or have you not had your prop dynamically
>balanced? Vibration high enough to break the exhaust hangers can't be good
>for the service life of the rest of the airframe. Do you have a saddle
brace
>that ties the two pipes across together.
>
>Try changing the tubes to 6061-T6 or similar flat aluminum bar stock (1" x
>.125" c/s) and see if they survive any better. Bend a foot on the bottom
for
>the pipe clamp. Mine have 270 hrs on them and they are just as new.
>
>As for Adel clamps, I would not use them for supporting the exhaust pipe.
>You might have better results with a T-bolt clamp (McMaster-Carr p/n
5312K11).
>
I think there may have been a couple of different styles of supports. Mine
has an Adel clamp on each side that is mounted to an engine mount tube (the
clamps are steel as another lister pointed out) from there there are two
segments of steel tube that go down to the exhaust. The two segments are
joined by a piece of hose clamped to the tube with hose clamps. The two
exhausts are also joined to each other with other pieces of curved steel
tubing. The steel tubing is flattened is flattened at the mounting ends
with a hole drilled through the flat part to accept -3 bolts.
I have new rubber mount biscuits but the prop has not been dynamically
balanced as I have not had an opportunity yet. The airplane does seem to be
quite smooth, but I do seem to be having a lot of breakage problems.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Munn, Mike" <mmunn(at)jajones.com> |
When fitting the elevators to the HS and aligning the elev tips with the HS
tip, the inboard elev tips do not line up. Upon checking the angle of each
elev, I find that there is a twist somewhere in one or both elev. I have a
difference of slightly less that 2 deg from the left elev to the right elev.
If I align the elevators to be equal in deflection, then the outboard tips
do not line up with the HS tips. When the outboard tips align with the HS
tips, then the rudder horns will line up. Should I go with the outboard
tips aligning up or equal angles on both elevators? Either way, there will
be a difference in the two elevators. Has anyone else had this problem?
Mike Munn
Installing the empennage
RV8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mounting elevators |
OK, all you guys who've already had to figure this one out, go ahead and
start laughing now.
I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put the
rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS. Well,
it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get those
damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers (and
needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
earth is this done? There, I'm now officially the list laughing-stock.
Sigh...
Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly, just a
bolt and a nut through the rod end bearing. Can this be right? Not that I'm
anywhere near bolting it on for good; just thinking ahead.
You can all stop laughing anytime, now... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 6A tip-up canopy frame fit (long) |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>
>
>>I applied the foam and fiberglass to stiffen the front of the canopy
>>frame (per Will Cressinger's notes) to bare and roughed up aluminum. I
>>primed afterwards. I riveted the skin on before doing the fiberglass and
>foam stiffening.
>====================================
>I thought the f/g came before the riveting of the skin on. If I rivet the
>skin on, then do I lay up just over the top,bottom & aft area of the
>forward channel?
>
don,
as far as i know, there really aren't any step-by-step instructions on how
to stiffen the canopy frame, so let me just tell you how i did it. (not
necessarily the right way! others can suggest improvements.)
first get the forward fuse skin clecoed on (the skin that goes from the
firewall to the subpanel). this will keep your subpanel and hinges straight
and in alignment. then use spacers to get the canopy frame the proper
distance from the sub-panel and longerons and clamp it down. when everything
is where it should be, drill and cleco the canopy skin to the cabin frame.
dimple, prime, and rivet the canopy skin to the frame. also make sure that
the two halves of the canopy bow are clamped together (i wouldn't drill and
rivet the splice plate until after fitting the plexi), so that the structure
is a little more rigid.
now you can fiberglass the channel. first, cut pieces of foam to fit in the
three channel sections, the straight one in the middle, and two curved ones
on each side of the hinges. then cut pieces of fiberglass cloth to the right
size to wrap around the pieces of foam. at this point, you're just getting
your materials ready! now mix up two batches of resin and hardener. take one
of them, and add microballoons to make a wet micro. now you're ready!
ok, so put a thin layer of resin on the interior of the channel. place the
pre-cut piece of cloth in the channel, centered with equal amounts
overhanging the side of the channel. wet out the portion of the cloth which
is inside the channel. at this point you will have wet glass inside the
channel, and dry cloth hanging out, ok?
take the foam and cover it on all sides with a thin layer of wet micro
mixture. this will prevent the foam from soaking all the resin away from the
cloth, so i am told. then place it inside the channel, on top of the layer
of glass already in place.
then, wet out the remainder of the cloth, and fold it over the piece of
foam. the cloth should have been cut to give two nice overlapping layers
here. put down some peel ply and try to get everything as straight and level
as possible, otherwise you will have a lot of sanding and filling later on.
to recap, if we took a cross-section of the channel, the layers would be the
following:
aluminum
glass cloth
micro
foam
micro
glass cloth
glass cloth
peel ply
now take the whole assembly and attach it to the airframe. clamp it in
position with the spacers installed. let it cure while clamped.
that should stiffen it up quite a bit. also, this may sound obvious, but...
make sure you attach both struts. individually, each strut puts a big
sideways force on the frame. i remember when i attached the first one, it
really pushed the whole canopy frame out of alignment. but then i attached
the second one, and the frame came right back into alignment.
good luck,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
The actual load depends on several factors. To 'protect' the circuit use a
5 to 10 amp device. (Breaker, Fuse, EXP Bus, what ever...)
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: jfarrar1 <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
Date: Monday, January 17, 2000 6:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electroair ignition
>
>Can anyone on the list please confirm for me that the amp load for Jeff
>Rose's ignition is .75amp? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved,
>Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage
>interior and wiring.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
Ken,
I just had the same problem a few days ago..finished both the elevators
and tried to hang them to see how they balanced......I pondered this also for
awhile...but the only way I could get the bolts in was to take each bolt and
tape it (with a thin strand of duct tape about 1/4 in wide) to a 7 inch piece
of scrap threaded rod (about 1/8 in in dia...but anything similar will work).
The bolt was taped to the rod semi-tight at a 90 degree angle. I was then
able to fish it in there and get it started...once it was half way in I
pulled the tape off with a needle nose pliers....not the best solution but it
worked for me. Im sure there is some special tool out there to do this...as
I would gladly trade my method for something easier......hope this helps.....
Kurt, OKC, OK
6A Emp....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: internet browser |
writes:
>I have a problem of most messages running off the right hand side of
>the screen.
Earl,
Maybe you have this type of set up. Go to the bar at the top and click
"view". In there you might find a "wordwrap" or "wrap long lines"
command. Click that. HTH
Larry Mac Donald lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greg(at)controlvision.com (Greg Yotz) |
| Subject: | Re: Palm GPS units |
To bad the Fuel Manager didn't have sensors for real updates.
Has anybody seen a Palm Pilot at night inside the cockpit?
I like the looks of the Casio E-100 PDA. It looks good and is color.
I still like the color GPS Moving map at <http://www.controlvision.com>
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 10:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Palm GPS units
>
>A while back there was a discussion on the Palm units.
>
>I found this website with more information.
>
>FYI only. I am not advertising for them, but they are getting my attention.
>
>http://www.aspenleaf.com/palm/
>--
>Shelby Smith
>shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
>RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
>N95EB - reserved
>
>----------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
Ken, take an old pair of needle nose pliers and grind a "V" shape on each (or
only one) side of the jay. The V groove holds the bolt nicely.
Mike Nellis (former Hopedale, MA resident)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 01/18/2000 08:50 AM
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Mounting elevators
OK, all you guys who've already had to figure this one out, go ahead and
start laughing now.
I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put the
rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS. Well,
it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get those
damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers (and
needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
earth is this done? There, I'm now officially the list laughing-stock.
Sigh...
Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly, just a
bolt and a nut through the rod end bearing. Can this be right? Not that I'm
anywhere near bolting it on for good; just thinking ahead.
You can all stop laughing anytime, now... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
(Oh Ha Ha Ha......) Just kidding. There are no stupid questions Ken.
If you hold the elevator all the way up or down, you can usually get a
finger or two in there to push on the bolt. I use needle nose pliers to get
the bolt started and then push it in with my finger. It is a tight fit
until the finish wears off of the bolt a little. Then it slides in a lot
easier.
BTW, I put thin washers on the nut side of the bolt. I use the smaller,
steel pinch nuts as opposed to fiber insert nuts. They have a smaller
surface area so the washers are needed to spread the load appropriately.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
-----Original Message-----
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 10:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting elevators
>
>OK, all you guys who've already had to figure this one out, go ahead and
>start laughing now.
>
>I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put the
>rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS.
Well,
>it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get
those
>damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers
(and
>needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
>earth is this done? There, I'm now officially the list laughing-stock.
>Sigh...
>
>Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly, just a
>bolt and a nut through the rod end bearing. Can this be right? Not that
I'm
>anywhere near bolting it on for good; just thinking ahead.
>
>You can all stop laughing anytime, now... :-)
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
Ken: It is not a laughing matter, we all went through this bolt situation,
there is a picture of the nifty little tool to make bolt insertion a snap.
It is located in the August 94 Rvator, page 11. What it is two pieces of
aluminum about 1/2" wide, bent about 3/4" from the end about 45 degrees.
One piece of the aluminum is rounded out to accept the shaft of the bolt.
The two pieces are riveted together about 1" inch back on the handle to
allow some spring action to hold bolt in place. It works very well, I hope
this description is not too confusing. I used a washer on the nut end of the
bolt on the RV-6's I built.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 9:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting elevators
>
> OK, all you guys who've already had to figure this one out, go ahead and
> start laughing now.
>
> I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put
the
> rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS.
Well,
> it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get
those
> damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers
(and
> needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
> earth is this done? There, I'm now officially the list laughing-stock.
> Sigh...
>
> Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly, just a
> bolt and a nut through the rod end bearing. Can this be right? Not that
I'm
> anywhere near bolting it on for good; just thinking ahead.
>
> You can all stop laughing anytime, now... :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
After a little more puzzling over things, I've realized that I have a good
news/bad news situation. The good news is that I remembered I had the
foresight to get Avery's temporary assembly pins and so was able to get my
elevator mounted. The bad news is that my counterweight arm is too long (by
~1/16" or so) and is impinging on the HS skin just enough to keep the
elevator from swinging freely. Can I trim the very small amount necessary
from the HS skin (and a corresponding amount later on from the HS fiberglass
tip)?
Why is it that just when everything seems as though it's going well, it
suddenly isn't? Hmmm...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Sensenich Propeller |
I found by reviewing the archieves that a few 160 hp rv-6 & rv-4's are
twisting out to 82 or 83 inches of bite which is over Vans or Sensenich factory
recommendations but within the factory spec of allowable twist based on the
limits of the metal casting of the prop blank.
The only thing I can figure is old(er) engine vrs. new engine or drag
differences.........as variables but there is a lot of inches between 79 & 82 or
83......... Any real world data or comments from anyone ????
daviddla(at)juno.com on 01/17/2000 04:35:51 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:Sensenich Propeller
Hi, This is just a note on the Sensenich propeller question. I just
ordered my propeller, for a 0-320-160hp engine and RV-6A airframe. Before
deciding on which pitch to order I called Vans, they recommended I call
Sensenich which I did. The bottom line is the recommendation from
Sensenich is not the same as listed in Vans catalog. Sensenich
Recommended a 70CM7S9-0-79 for my engine where the catalog recommended a
70CM7S9-0-78. You will find a chart of the Sensenich recommended
propellers on their web site, www.sensenich.com David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
A pair if surgical hemostats with the locking ratchets by the finger loops & 3
inch or longer nose section is what I used. Most tool suppliers have these....I
use the cheeper
chineese or packastanee ones.....there are great for routing wires, holding
things & such where a needlenose visegrip is to much force or to big to sneak
into small places.One of Vans newsletters this year( 1999) has the writeup in
the v-notched needlenose pliers & the clever bolt holder made from flat stock
too.
mike.nellis(at)mcd.com on 01/18/2000 10:50:26 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting elevators
Ken, take an old pair of needle nose pliers and grind a "V" shape on each (or
only one) side of the jay. The V groove holds the bolt nicely.
Mike Nellis (former Hopedale, MA resident)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 01/18/2000 08:50 AM
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Mounting elevators
OK, all you guys who've already had to figure this one out, go ahead and
start laughing now.
I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put the
rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS. Well,
it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get those
damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers (and
needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
earth is this done? There, I'm now officially the list laughing-stock.
Sigh...
Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly, just a
bolt and a nut through the rod end bearing. Can this be right? Not that I'm
anywhere near bolting it on for good; just thinking ahead.
You can all stop laughing anytime, now... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HP12C Palm VX |
I found the HP-12C for a pc with full mouse support....real nice. I don't know
the particulars for the small palm-top but the version I have does work under
windows 95 & windows 98 on a standard pc (well the word standard is
lame........I know it works on a 386 with windows 95 and a 100mhz Pentium with
Win 95 & a Pentium II 250 mhz notebook I have).....Contact off post or
whatever ...this sounds like fun........certainly not work which is what I
should be doing now ....)
bfiles(at)corecom.net on 01/18/2000 01:13:06 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: HP12C Palm VX
Did I see a thread that someone found a sight for the program to put an
HP12C on a Palm Organizer.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vetterman Exhaust Supports |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers,
Just got off the phone with the very cordial Larry Vetterman. He
indicated there had not been much problem with the supports, although
several listers have indicated problems to me.
His first suggestion as many others was to balance the prop. I have an
appointment at Belen for Saturday morning.
He also had suggestions to use double adel clamps about an inch apart
with some 1/8 inch hardware store aluminum between the clamps and the
steel rod attached to a hole drilled in the aluminum. The steel rod is
3/8 inch auto store brake line with the ends cut off. Much handier than
ordering from ACS.
Another suggestion was to use double supports to two different engine
mount tubes.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Attach Bracket |
Another approach are the aircraft eyebolts.....the clips attach the hole in the
eyebolt & the threads of the #3 eyebolt insert in the rudder horn. These are
AIRCRAFT eyebolts. For tail dradders the same thing can be done at the tail
wheel horn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: Shielded wire for phones |
>> 2. I assume when you say 'ring' in the context of the headphone jack,
>> you mean the ground terminal,
>
> YES
>
> or shell of the connector, not 'ring' as
>> in the ring in the mic jack. I don't have his book, but I would bet he's
>> trying to eliminate 'ground loops' in the audio circuits by letting the
>> shield float unconnected at the jack end. For this to work, the shell of
>> the jack must be insulated from the frame of the a/c. Does he show
>> insulators for the shell of the jack? Two wires + shield are probably
>> better, but what you've got will certainly work. It's still a good idea
>> to insulate the jack from the airframe.
>YES, IT"S ISOLATED. I'M GOING TO REDO THEM ANYWAY AS I REALIZED THAT IF I
>WANTED STEREO, I NEED STEREO JACKS
>>
>> Hopefully Bob will see your posts & correct me if I'm wrong about what
>> he's trying to do with the circuit.
Just getting back in the saddle after 5 days in Oregon. Dee and
I got back late last night.
The common vernacular for identifying contacts of the
two conductor plugs used for stereo headphones and
microphones is "tip" (push to talk on mic), "ring" (mic
audio) and "sleeve" (ground). Sleeve is also ground
on headsets with the two channels distributed to tip and
ring terminals.
Extended PTT switches can be wired directly to
microphone jacks without shielding these wires.
Recommend twisting them about 2 turns per inch.
A shielded pair is good for both microphone and
stereo headset wiring. Use shield of wire for ground
return (sleeve) connection on both kinds of jack.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | ideal size for workbench |
Check out the VonDane's!
I built their dimpling table - it's great. The download doesn't currently
work though.
http://vondane.tripod.com/logbook/tips/
I also just built a sound dampening box for my compressor using the
same building techniques. Works pretty good and I get a built in table
on top!
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
QB ordered while I work on EMP (HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime)!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
>
>Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly
I suppose Van uses few washers to save weight but I always thought washers
were necessary under nuts, especially when nut is against softer
material. Turning the nut scuffs the washer instead of the part.
Another member of our EAA chapter said that a washer is supposed to go
between the part and the "turning member" whether it is the nut or the bolt
head. I like a washer under each. I like washers and bushings since when
they wear out, get scuffed up etc they are cheaply replaced.
When you get some wear in the control stick you will have to replace or
rebuild it where you could have it designed so only the bushing would be
replaced. My Debonair, after 4000 hours, developed some slop in the
elevator hinges. However, only the tiny bushings (1/2" long by 3/16 ID and
5/16 OD steel) had to be replaced at a mere $53.00 each!
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Mounting elevators |
Ken :
I built a tool from .025 about 1/2 wide. IT does a 180 turn around the
head. Got a notch in the end for the shank.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
, if I could only get
>those
>damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose
>fingers (and
>needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | fiberglass on canopy 6A |
37,39,41-43,45-46,48-52,54,56-60,62,64-65,67-80,82-84,86-93
Thanks Louis:
I am rivetting the skin on today. Talked to a GlasAir buider last nite.
HE said about the same except for the Micro + resin mixture. I will try
that.
I deleted your address cause I was printting this out. Ended with your
message in the send to box.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
as far as i know, there really aren't any step-by-step instructions on
how
to stiffen the canopy frame, so let me just tell you how i did it. (not
necessarily the right way! others can suggest improvements.)
first get the forward fuse skin clecoed on (the skin that goes from the
firewall to the subpanel). this will keep your subpanel and hinges
straight
and in alignment. then use spacers to get the canopy frame the proper
distance from the sub-panel and longerons and clamp it down. when
everything
is where it should be, drill and cleco the canopy skin to the cabin
frame.
dimple, prime, and rivet the canopy skin to the frame. also make sure
that
the two halves of the canopy bow are clamped together (i wouldn't drill
and
rivet the splice plate until after fitting the plexi), so that the
structure
is a little more rigid.
now you can fiberglass the channel. first, cut pieces of foam to fit in
the
three channel sections, the straight one in the middle, and two curved
ones
on each side of the hinges. then cut pieces of fiberglass cloth to the
right
size to wrap around the pieces of foam. at this point, you're just
getting
your materials ready! now mix up two batches of resin and hardener. take
one
of them, and add microballoons to make a wet micro. now you're ready!
ok, so put a thin layer of resin on the interior of the channel. place
the
pre-cut piece of cloth in the channel, centered with equal amounts
overhanging the side of the channel. wet out the portion of the cloth
which
is inside the channel. at this point you will have wet glass inside the
channel, and dry cloth hanging out, ok?
take the foam and cover it on all sides with a thin layer of wet micro
mixture. this will prevent the foam from soaking all the resin away from
the
cloth, so i am told. then place it inside the channel, on top of the
layer
of glass already in place.
then, wet out the remainder of the cloth, and fold it over the piece of
foam. the cloth should have been cut to give two nice overlapping layers
here. put down some peel ply and try to get everything as straight and
level
as possible, otherwise you will have a lot of sanding and filling later
on.
to recap, if we took a cross-section of the channel, the layers would be
the
following:
aluminum
glass cloth
micro
foam
micro
glass cloth
glass cloth
peel ply
now take the whole assembly and attach it to the airframe. clamp it in
position with the spacers installed. let it cure while clamped.
that should stiffen it up quite a bit. also, this may sound obvious,
but...
make sure you attach both struts. individually, each strut puts a big
sideways force on the frame. i remember when i attached the first one, it
really pushed the whole canopy frame out of alignment. but then i
attached
the second one, and the frame came right back into alignment.
good luck,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
Avery sells a small tool (don't have the catalog here at work) that, in
effect, is a bent "pin" with a tapered in. The other end is threaded.
There are small "handles" that you screw onto the threaded in. To make a
long story short, you slide these small pins into the rod end bearings, then
unscrew the handles. It is fast, and simple. This, of course, is only done
while you are building/fitting/measuring/etc. and is not the final "bolting
it on" process . . . but until you are at this step this tool and the
associated pins are invaluable. It takes me less than 120 seconds to mount
my rudder and or elevators.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 8:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting elevators
>
>OK, all you guys who've already had to figure this one out, go ahead and
>start laughing now.
>
>I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put the
>rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS.
Well,
>it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get
those
>damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers
(and
>needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
>earth is this done? There, I'm now officially the list laughing-stock.
>Sigh...
>
>Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly, just a
>bolt and a nut through the rod end bearing. Can this be right? Not that
I'm
>anywhere near bolting it on for good; just thinking ahead.
>
>You can all stop laughing anytime, now... :-)
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 8:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting elevators
>
> OK, all you guys who've already had to figure this one out, go ahead and
> start laughing now.
>
> I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put
the
> rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS.
Well,
> it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get
those
> damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers
(and
> needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
> earth is this done?
Ken,
You just need to make a little tool out of aluminum that will hold the end
of the bolt so you can get it in there. Take a look at a tool my friend, Ed
made for me at http://rv8asite.homestead.com/fuselage.html
Jerry Carter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Sensenich Propeller |
I thought I might be able to clear up this thread. I want to make sure that
we are not mixing up the O-320 prop pitches, normally 77 to 79, with the
O-360 prop pitches 83 to 85. There have been a few (3 at last count) who
have had their 70CM props twisted up to an 81 for different reasons:
lighter, cleaner, engine producing more than 160 HP (you know who you are!)
For the O-320 prop, most of our customers stay in the 77 to 79 range
depending on HP and specific RV.
The O-360 prop (180 HP only), 72FM series is being offered to 6/6A's with an
83 pitch and the 4/8's are getting 85 pitches.
There you go!
Ed Zercher
Sensenich Propeller Manufacturing Company
I found by reviewing the archives that a few 160 hp rv-6 & rv-4's are
twisting out to 82 or 83 inches of bite which is over Vans or Sensenich
factory
recommendations but within the factory spec of allowable twist based on the
limits of the metal casting of the prop blank.
The only thing I can figure is old(er) engine vrs. new engine or drag
differences.........as variables but there is a lot of inches between 79 &
82 or
83......... Any real world data or comments from anyone ????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod Clearance on an RV-6 |
I'm a new guy on the RV list, so hope this is not retracing old info.
Building a RV-6A QuickBuild.
While installing the the flaps, the aileron push rod, from the bell
crank to the aileron, would not clear the leading edge flap flange when
the aileron was moved to the full down position. All measurements are
very close to plan specs. I would have to cut approx an inch off the
outboard leading edge of the flap flange to insure clearance. Van
acknowledged the problem was not unheard of and suggested a combination
of trimming the flap flange, moving the flap inboard, and mounting the
aileron push rod connection outboard within the aileron bracket vice the
inboard edge as shown in the plan. I did as they suggested and the push
rod now clears, but with minimum clearance. I now get about a sixteenth
inch clearance between the rod and the flap with the aileron full down,
and a sixteenth inch clearance between the rod and the aileron hinge
with the aileron full up. I'm not happy with the clearances.
Tim Lewis said he had a similar problem and cut a rather large notch in
the flap flange which only shows with the flaps deployed. That may be my
solution also, though I am looking for a way to avoid it.
As most of you are aware, the RV-6 wing is essentially the same as the
RV-4. In the RV-4, the aileron pushrod is parallel to the wing ribs with
the aileron in neutral. In the RV-6, the rod runs at approx 20 degrees
to the ribs, with the aileron connection outboard of the bell crank. In
my opinion, the best fix is to redesign the location of the aileron bell
crank, though I'm not engineer enough to figure out how.
Has anybody had similar problems? What was the fix? Has anybody
redesigned the bell crank location?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
>From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Electroair ignition
>Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 00:11:50 EST
>
>
>In a message dated 1/17/00 7:49:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>jfarrar1(at)home.com writes:
>
><< Can anyone on the list please confirm for me that the amp load for Jeff
> Rose's ignition is .75amp? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved,
> Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage
> interior and wiring. >>
>
>I've asked Jeff Rose this question. He never quite answered it (this
>dawned
>on me after the 'phone conversation was over), but said to use a 5 to 10
>amp
>breaker... This information is included in the manual.
>
>Hope this gives you the info you need.
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>RV-6 Hacking up the firewall...
>
>
Guys,
I used mostly 16 gauge wire in my airplane for the majority of the panel
installation. Why? I found a HUGE roll of it at a surplus store and they
sold it to me for the same price as regular industrial wire. I also like
using heavier gauge wire for the additional strength it offers. So, for
wiring stuff forward of the firewall, especially something as vital as the
electronic ignition, I would use no less than 18 AWG and fuse or breaker
protect that wire per the charts in the Accepted Practices manual or similar
text.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
16 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Woes and First Flights |
>You must have one exceptional paint job. When I got to that point, I just
>wanted to fly. I sanded for one week and painted for two weeks and called
>it good enough for me. Not perfect but I am still proud to say I did it.
>
Thanks Rick. I've been watching your progress closely. I'm happy that you
made it and are flying.
I realize that my approach to painting is not what most builders are taking.
So I kind of accepted that fact that I was going to need 4 to 6 months to
finish it.
I paint each part separately and off of the airplane. I also mask the
internal areas so there's no overspray on the insides. I like the clean
look of metal etching primer next to the finish color.
I also picked a color scheme that requires nearly every part to have three
and sometimes four colors (Dark metallic blue, light metallic blue, metallic
gold, and white). Since I'm using Imron, I butt joint the paint rather than
spray one over the other. Given the assembly line process I've set up, it
takes me a week to get one set of parts finished from start to clear coat.
By the time you give the paint 24 hours to dry between applications, primer,
mask, paint, mask, paint, mask, paint, clear coat takes a bunch of days.
I don't know how my paint job will stack up against everyone else's, but I
don't really care about that stuff. Like you, I will take pride in knowing
that I did the whole thing myself from start to finish. That's not a jab at
anyone who has a professional paint their bird for them. Sometimes I
question my own sanity for picking the path that I have, but I have the
skill to do it myself and so I will.
I'm getting there. 11 weeks until I'm at the airport with all the parts.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | was Mounting elevators,( bad horn) |
Ken
Invest in a pair of 9.5" long forceps. They are very thin and somewhat
flexible and they lock down on the bolt. A little tape on the end of the
forceps adds a little friction so the bolt won't slip in the forceps.A piece
of wood 3/8"dowel comes in handy to lightly open the 2 HS 412 faces so the
bearing can slide in.
I've had my right elevator on and off so much I could go to work for OTIS as
a consultant. I received a defective right elevator horn/weldment. When
properly mounted the horn was angled in towards the spar. I thought it was
my mistake for a while until I had 3 different RV builders look at it. One
of them is a 93' OSH workmanship winner for his RV4 and he told me I've been
"horned on the horn".
Looked to Vans tech support for a fix and it was suggested I could drill my
nice elevator apart (not my first choice) or cut a thin kerf notch 75%
around the shaft and adjust the root end down and then TIG weld it. My kit #
is 80970 and I have powder coated horns. I went with the TIG/notch repair
but am realizing today that this fix is an ugly herring. I don't believe it
can be made to work. Did I mention I have cut and bent and welded the horn
already. Mr. Brain wasn't looking down the road on this one (sorry unnamed
Vans guy in the phone but yours wasn't either). It all looks beautiful when
the elevator is in trail but (horror) the spot where I will need to drill
for the rear bearing is going to travel in an arc. It is indeed eccentric
and I should have visualized that this fix would not work. Now I'm
frustrated and a wee bit peed off at myself as well as the fellow I talked
with at Van's. Drilling apart my nice elevator to swap out a bad piece from
the factory is annoying (as well as ensuring I have a mitt full of figure
8's on a critical control surface mounting point). It's bad enough trying to
avoid my own mistakes.
Rob Baxter RV-8
Sarnia Ont
was 98.5% done on emp(including glass) but not anymore
wings shipping Jan 31
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 9:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting elevators
>
> OK, all you guys who've already had to figure this one out, go ahead and
> start laughing now.
>
> I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put
the
> rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS.
Well,
> it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get
those
> damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers
(and
> needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
> earth is this done? There, I'm now officially the list laughing-stock.
> Sigh...
>
> Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly, just a
> bolt and a nut through the rod end bearing. Can this be right? Not that
I'm
> anywhere near bolting it on for good; just thinking ahead.
>
> You can all stop laughing anytime, now... :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>From: "Munn, Mike" <mmunn(at)jajones.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 QB
>Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 09:27:59 -0500
>
>
>When fitting the elevators to the HS and aligning the elev tips with the HS
>tip, the inboard elev tips do not line up. Upon checking the angle of each
>elev, I find that there is a twist somewhere in one or both elev. I have a
>difference of slightly less that 2 deg from the left elev to the right
>elev.
>If I align the elevators to be equal in deflection, then the outboard tips
>do not line up with the HS tips. When the outboard tips align with the HS
>tips, then the rudder horns will line up. Should I go with the outboard
>tips aligning up or equal angles on both elevators? Either way, there will
>be a difference in the two elevators. Has anyone else had this problem?
>
>Mike Munn
>Installing the empennage
>RV8 QB
Mike,
I messed up on my right elevator and it has a twist as well. Guess what?
The plane flies just fine. I aligned the elevators so the counterbalance
arms align with the HS. This was done mostly from a cosmetic standpoint. I
can't say it was the best choice from an aerodynamic perspective as I don't
have anything to compare it to, but it works fine and there are no pitching
or rolling issues that I can detect at any speed...from stall to 190mph.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
16 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator mounting accomplished... |
After taking an hour for lunch, I realized that all I needed to do to make
the counterweight arm clear the HS skin was to back the rod end bearings out
a bit. I took one turn off each of them and the elevator swings fine now.
Thanks to all for the good suggestions regarding getting those bolts in
place. When the time comes to permanently mount the control surfaces, I'll
make myself a bolt-putter-inner. Until then, those Avery pins work like a
charm.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: was Mounting elevators,( bad horn) |
In a message dated 1/18/2000 12:45:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
robbax(at)sympatico.ca writes:
>
> Ken
> Invest in a pair of 9.5" long forceps. They are very thin and somewhat
> flexible and they lock down on the bolt. A little tape on the end of the
> forceps adds a little friction so the bolt won't slip in the forceps.A
piece
> of wood 3/8"dowel comes in handy to lightly open the 2 HS 412 faces so the
> bearing can slide in.
Sounds like a good solution to me. I'll try and snag a pair this spring at
Sun 'n Fun. Somebody's bound to have them.
> I've had my right elevator on and off so much I could go to work for OTIS
as
> a consultant.
Ha!
Sorry to hear about your elevator horn woes. Yours is the first instance of
this particular problem of which I'm aware. My right horn is fine and the
left one looks good so far. I'll be holding my breath for the next few days
until I can get the left elevator finished and see how looks when riveted in
place. Good luck with yours. FWIW, I wouldn't've jumped at the
drilling-my-elevator-apart option, either.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Custom Canopies |
Ted,
The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is called Foxlite)
will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I had Van's delete
my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from Foxlite instead. The
canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
Northwest Connection wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Northwest Connection"
>
> I was wondering if anyone could provide me with some recommendations on
> where I can get a custom canopy made to order -- somewhere in the Northwest
> would be best. Thanks.
>
> Ted Burke
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
Ken,
You might try wrapping a wire/cable tie-wrap around the bolt. I have
found that sometimes works. Use the widest tie-wrap you can find and put it
around the bolt and use that to suspend the bolt parallel to the hole and
then you can use a needle nose plyers to push it in. If this doesn' work
there are several special tools you can make up.
Ed
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Jeff,
That is how I wired my -8A and just did the smoke check last night. It
worked fine.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB Will this wiring never end???
>From: "jfarrar1" <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: PTT switch
>Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:42:24 -0700
>
>
>Does anyone know if there is any reason that the ptt switch cannot be
>soldered to the tip and shield terminals of the mic jack directly?
>According to Electric Bob's diagrams it looks like it should be OK but I
>wanted to check. This would be for the ptt switch for the passenger which
>is mounted right next to the jack.
>
>Also, did I see somewhere that it is not a good idea to send HTML format
>mail to the list?
>
> Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
>Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How NOT to Mix Epoxy Primers |
>
>snip
It is perfectly alright to use the pot of your spraygun for mixing.
Just use a metal ruler and place this inside the pot.
If you can get a metric ruler as most of epoxy mixes are in percentages.
For example a 100/100/50 mix could be 50mm base, 50mm hardener or reactor,
25mm thinner.
For other mixes just work out the percentages in millimeters.
If you agitate the base of your paint system properly(use a paddle on a
drillmotor or go to a paintstore that have a paintshaker) you should have no
worries about lumps in the paint and there is really no need for a
paintstrainer, the small filter on the end of the pipe of your spraygun is
usually finer anyway.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
> I finished my right elevator last night, got up early this morning, put
the
> rod end bearings in place and attempted to mount that puppy to my HS.
Well,
> it looks like it'll fit just right (a BIG relief), if I could only get
those
> damn AN3-7A bolts in place. I can't be the only guy here whose fingers
(and
> needlenose pliers and other random long, grabby tools) didn't fit. How on
> earth is this done? There, I'm now officially the list laughing-stock.
> Sigh...
>
> Also, the plans don't show a washer as being part of the assembly, just a
> bolt and a nut through the rod end bearing. Can this be right? Not that
I'm
> anywhere near bolting it on for good; just thinking ahead.
Ken,
I use hemostats and they work great. Later when you're mounting all that
stuff on the airplane and taking it off/on a million times you'll get quite
good at it. I think you can pick up a set at any drug store. They're kind of
like the ultimate needle nose pliers.
The plans are correct, a bolt and a nut. The center sphere of the bearing is
essentially clamped in place.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finish kit etc.
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
In a message dated 1/18/2000 3:17:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
randyl(at)pacifier.com writes:
> Ken,
> I use hemostats and they work great. Later when you're mounting all that
> stuff on the airplane and taking it off/on a million times you'll get quite
> good at it. I think you can pick up a set at any drug store. They're kind
of
> like the ultimate needle nose pliers.
>
> The plans are correct, a bolt and a nut. The center sphere of the bearing
is
> essentially clamped in place.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, finish kit etc.
> www.pacifier.com/~randyl
> Home Wing VAF
Hi Randy,
Several people have mentioned the hemostat and it sounds like a great idea.
I'll pick one up at the earliest opportunity.
Speaking of the nut and the bolt, how on earth does one get the nut turned
onto the bolt? To say nothing of being torqued down properly. How do you
get the torque wrench and socket into that tiny space?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
In a message dated 1/18/2000 11:00:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
> (Oh Ha Ha Ha......) Just kidding. There are no stupid questions Ken.
Thanks, Randy. I know that, of course, but I felt a bit sheepish about
confessing a problem with something that at least 2300+ guys had already
figured out.
Just for the record, how does one get the nut started on the bolt and
properly torqued down in that tiny space?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Attach Bracket |
An example of what you are talking about can be found here.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/images/Dcp00512.jpg
Mike Nellis
http://mnellis.jnet.net
From: pcondon(at)csc.com on 01/18/2000 10:55 AM
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Attach Bracket
Another approach are the aircraft eyebolts.....the clips attach the hole in the
eyebolt & the threads of the #3 eyebolt insert in the rudder horn. These are
AIRCRAFT eyebolts. For tail dradders the same thing can be done at the tail
wheel horn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
| Subject: | Re: How NOT to Mix Epoxy Primers |
I don't know what the properties are of a primer that eats away plastic, but I
spent about $8.00 at my local restaurant supply house and bought two, one
gallon, jugs w/pumps to dispense the primer. One squirt = 1 oz and it's mixed
1:1. It's easy to mix up as much or as little as you like without any mess. If
your ratio is 2:1 then obviously you would use 2 squirts to one squirt. Here is
a picture
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/images/PrimerDisp1.JPG
Mike Nellis
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
From: marcel de ruiter <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> on 01/18/2000 01:24 PM
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: How NOT to Mix Epoxy Primers
>
>snip
It is perfectly alright to use the pot of your spraygun for mixing.
Just use a metal ruler and place this inside the pot.
If you can get a metric ruler as most of epoxy mixes are in percentages.
For example a 100/100/50 mix could be 50mm base, 50mm hardener or reactor,
25mm thinner.
For other mixes just work out the percentages in millimeters.
If you agitate the base of your paint system properly(use a paddle on a
drillmotor or go to a paintstore that have a paintshaker) you should have no
worries about lumps in the paint and there is really no need for a
paintstrainer, the small filter on the end of the pipe of your spraygun is
usually finer anyway.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Custom Canopies |
Tell us more. Don't Van's canopies have a slight tint to them? Is yours
REALLY dark? Can you still fly at night? How much more did you pay?
Thanks,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe
> Czachorowski
> Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 1:01 PM
> Ted,
>
> The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is
> called Foxlite)
> will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I
> had Van's delete
> my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from
> Foxlite instead. The
> canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it.
>
> Joe
> RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | engine pre-heater |
I couldn't find this in the archives.
Anyone have a cheap and easy way to construct an engine heater for airplanes
sittin' out on the ramp or know of a good low cost commercial source? I'm
looking for something that's proven which we can hopefully permanently
install in the plane (obviously attach it to something like the inside of
the bottom cowl) or which can be very easily taken out of the cowl during
normal pre-flight ops. Assume we will have 110v ac available. I'd like to
be able to just plug it in after a flight and leave it on all the time in
between flights.
TIA,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod Clearance on an RV-6 |
>snip
>While installing the the flaps, the aileron push rod, from the bell
>crank to the aileron, would not clear the leading edge flap flange when
>the aileron was moved to the full down position.
>snip
>Tim Lewis said he had a similar problem and cut a rather large notch in
>the flap flange which only shows with the flaps deployed. That may be my
>solution also, though I am looking for a way to avoid it.
>snip
I had the same problem and took the route of least resistance and just
trimmed enough off the leading edge of the flap so that it would clear. It
is only noticable when the flap is fully extended. I think I only had to
trim back about .75".
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | aeroflash question |
Hello Listers,
Has anyone out there used Aeroflash wingtip strobes with a Whelen power
supply? The instructions that I have from Whelen tell you how to connect
their unit to Aeroflash strobes; I'm guessing the reason why Aeroflash
strobes are not as bright as the Whelen's have to do with the power supplies
that come with them. I'll bet there's little difference between the strobe
tubes. I have a Whelen power supply behind my baggage compartment but do
not have the wingtip strobes yet, and am considering the Aeroflash units
because they are substantially cheaper. I also know that the Aeroflash
strobes are shaped differently than the Whelen A650's--but I'm not sure if
they would fit onto Van's wingtip light extensions...has anyone mounted
Aeroflash strobes onto Van's extensions?
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 fuse completely done/painted, wings 60% done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | RE: aeroflash question |
Oops, I meant A600's, not the A650's. The ones I need have the aft position
light.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aeroflash question |
The strobes do mount on Van's extensions perfectly. I just did this a
couple of weeks ago. I will post some pictures of it shortly.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 3:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: aeroflash question
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> Has anyone out there used Aeroflash wingtip strobes with a Whelen power
> supply? The instructions that I have from Whelen tell you how to connect
> their unit to Aeroflash strobes; I'm guessing the reason why Aeroflash
> strobes are not as bright as the Whelen's have to do with the power
supplies
> that come with them. I'll bet there's little difference between the
strobe
> tubes. I have a Whelen power supply behind my baggage compartment but do
> not have the wingtip strobes yet, and am considering the Aeroflash units
> because they are substantially cheaper. I also know that the Aeroflash
> strobes are shaped differently than the Whelen A650's--but I'm not sure if
> they would fit onto Van's wingtip light extensions...has anyone mounted
> Aeroflash strobes onto Van's extensions?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 fuse completely done/painted, wings 60% done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
>From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting elevators
>Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:39:05 EST
>
>
>In a message dated 1/18/2000 11:00:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
>
> > (Oh Ha Ha Ha......) Just kidding. There are no stupid questions Ken.
>
>Thanks, Randy. I know that, of course, but I felt a bit sheepish about
>confessing a problem with something that at least 2300+ guys had already
>figured out.
>
>Just for the record, how does one get the nut started on the bolt and
>properly torqued down in that tiny space?
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>left elevator & trim tab
>
Ken,
I found small pieces of electrical tape to be quite handy to position
washers and nuts in tight places. For washers, just take about a one inch
piece of tape and fold it over with it barely grabbing the washer. It works
fine and once the washer is slipped over the bolt, simply pull the tape off.
For nuts, I place the tape across one side of an open end wrench (ground
down as needed for the application) and stick the nut in place. You can
then position the nut and apply the twisting motion to the bolt to get it
started. It does take some finesse but once you've done it a few times, it's
much easier. Well, it's NEVER truly easy, but now at least it's possible.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
16 hours
prop gets balanced this weekend. Nooo mmmoore viiibrraaaattion....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine pre-heater |
>
>
>I couldn't find this in the archives.
>
>Anyone have a cheap and easy way to construct an engine heater for
>airplanes
>sittin' out on the ramp or know of a good low cost commercial source? I'm
>looking for something that's proven which we can hopefully permanently
>install in the plane (obviously attach it to something like the inside of
>the bottom cowl) or which can be very easily taken out of the cowl during
>normal pre-flight ops. Assume we will have 110v ac available. I'd like to
>be able to just plug it in after a flight and leave it on all the time in
>between flights.
>
>TIA,
>lucky
Lucky,
You might consider what I did to keep my engine warm. It's simply an
electric heater with an HVAC flange screwed onto it's face and a length of
flexible aluminum duct. I leave it on all the time and the entire engine
compartment stays warm...even the battery which is on the firewall. It
cranks with vigor every time. Total materials cost at Home Depot: $35.00. I
stuff pieces of foam in the cooling air inlets to keep the heat in. It
doesn't have the capacity to quickly heat up a thoroughly cold-soaked
engine, but maintains it well above freezing in mild winter conditions.
You can see pics of it here:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/finish1.html
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
16 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
In a message dated 1/18/2000 6:42:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Ken,
>
> I found small pieces of electrical tape to be quite handy to position
> washers and nuts in tight places. For washers, just take about a one inch
> piece of tape and fold it over with it barely grabbing the washer. It
works
> fine and once the washer is slipped over the bolt, simply pull the tape
off.
>
> For nuts, I place the tape across one side of an open end wrench (ground
> down as needed for the application) and stick the nut in place. You can
> then position the nut and apply the twisting motion to the bolt to get it
> started. It does take some finesse but once you've done it a few times,
it's
>
> much easier. Well, it's NEVER truly easy, but now at least it's possible.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 16 hours
> prop gets balanced this weekend. Nooo mmmoore viiibrraaaattion....
Hi Brian,
Great advice! I just tried it and it works. Like you said: not easy, but
possible.
BTW, are you planning on bringing your -8 to Sun 'n Fun this year?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Von Dane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ideal size for workbench |
Thanks Ralph...
But I can't take credit for the dimpling table... I found one like it
on a web site somewhere, but can't find it now to save my life...
Also, to download the work table plans, click on the link, and then
another page will come up where you can download it... It's Tripod...
What can I do?
Bill Von Dane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), waiting for wing kit
http://vondane.tripod.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 8:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: ideal size for workbench
Check out the VonDane's!
I built their dimpling table - it's great. The download doesn't
currently
work though.
http://vondane.tripod.com/logbook/tips/
I also just built a sound dampening box for my compressor using the
same building techniques. Works pretty good and I get a built in
table
on top!
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
QB ordered while I work on EMP (HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime)!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: aeroflash question |
>
Bob, I have the aeroflash units mounted on Van's wingtip extension. Perfect
fit.
Gary Zilik
>
> Oops, I meant A600's, not the A650's. The ones I need have the aft position
> light.
>
> Bob
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
What size holes have you guys cut in the fuse for fuel lines from wing
tanks and what size gromets did you use if any to prevent chafing of
fuel line?
Earl still trying to plumb the 4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ideal size for workbench |
The Von Dane's wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Ralph...
>
> But I can't take credit for the dimpling table... I found one like it
> on a web site somewhere, but can't find it now to save my life...
Here tis, (along with other good tips) with credit to Rod Woodard:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/tips.html
Unfortunately, Rod abandoned his RV-8 project to go fly for some
airline......he isn't a total loss, however, since he bought a RV-3. ;-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Was Severe Weather; Now, trip plans |
n5lp wrote:
>
>
> Well I could get some work done on my airplane if the darn weather was
> just a little better. Temps have been running around 77-80 degrees. I
> really prefer about 72 degrees.
>
> While flying at 6,000 MSL yesterday I was running the vents full tilt and
> was still a bit warm. I think I saw a cloud too.
>
> The wind has been about 3 knots or so.
>
> On a cross country Sunday my ground speed and true airspeed agreed to
> within 2 knots during the whole flight, over and back.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
Well.....that tears it! There just isn't any point in letting Larry have
all the great flying weather all to himself. A couple of friends of mine
are going to be flying our RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8's from north Alabama
out to New Mexico and Arizona during the first week of February. I would
love to hear from RV'ers in the Southwest about great places for us
southern hicks to check out while we are in the Great Southwest. We
can't make any promises about when we will be where since the weather
(and our mood) will determine where/when we will fly.
Please post any replies to the list since I am sure there are other
RV'ers who would like to plan flights to the southwest area in the
future. I am also interested in preferred routes to cross those little
hills in New Mexico.
I already have Sedona, AZ on my list.......
Sam Buchanan (getting backup batteries for the GPS....)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Gas Cap Engraving |
List: Has anyone heard if Steve has enough people for a second group of RV
gas caps to be engraved ? I remember a post from him in early january
saying another group would be ready to go in a couple of weeks and sent my
caps in.
Thanks Tom in Ohio
(wd-657 clecoed)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Cracked Elevator Skin |
Somebody save me!
On the left elevator skin, while bending the little tabs in the skin for
the trim tab cut out, I managed to develop a small crack in the skin.
The crack is 1/4 inch back from the forward edge of the tab, and runs
spanwise, parallel to the trim tab spar, about 3/8 inch long. Since it
is in a non-structural area, I would think that I could drill stop it
and forget it. Any advice, or better ideas how to fix it, besides a new
elevator? Oh, and of course I had the whole forward edge of the thing
riveted before I figured this out.
And everything was going SOOOO smoothly on the elevators!
Jeff Point
jpoint(at)execpc.com
-6 elevators, waiting on wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Severe Weather |
Larry,
Well, I have the other end of the spectrum. Out here in New England the
temperature has been 12 below zero with a 40 MPH wind blowing. Check that out
for wind chill.
Good luck.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was Severe Weather; Now, trip plans |
>
>Please post any replies to the list since I am sure there are other
>RV'ers who would like to plan flights to the southwest area in the
>future. I am also interested in preferred routes to cross those little
>hills in New Mexico.
>
>I already have Sedona, AZ on my list.......
>
>Sam Buchanan (getting backup batteries for the GPS....)
Sam, I just spent the weekend at Monument valley just across the border
into Utah. It is a fun private airport to fly into.(71V)
It is a dirt strip 25 x 4000 that runs uphill into a solid rock face so you
can only land one way (16). There is a nice hotel there run by the local
Navajos and they have 1/2 day and day tours of Monument Valley.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Grumman aa1-a N9205L
rv-6a finishing fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Was Severe Weather; Now, trip plans |
Hey if you get over San Diego way try to land at Gillespie Field El
Cajon. There is a famous aerospace museum there on the field with an
Atlas missile and lots of other cool planes and displays. There are a
few RVers there too that are really nice guys. The cafe next to the
tower makes excellent omelettes and the weather is always nice and
sunny.
Today it hit 75f and was actually kinda balmy for around here.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank & Marilyn Hutchins <rvflyers(at)frontier.net> |
Just a curiosity question: Did you have a brother, Ernie Fortner, who worked for
So. Cal Edison, and/or a brother MIA in Viet Nam, I had a bracelet I wore for
years with his name. Marily. reply to rvflyers(at)frontier.net.
EARL FORTNER wrote:
>
> Rick it sounds like you did everything right. Congrats. Now if I could
> get off my duff and do a little building perhaps I could get mine a
> little closer to completion.
>
> Rick Caldwell wrote:
> >
> >
> > It all came together yesterday. After 3900 building hrs and 4 years, RV-6
> > #24187 is now flying. Words can't describe the feelings of accomplishment
> > of flying this plane. Truly a good day.
> >
> > All went well, but it was a very busy first 10 seconds. I forfeited the
> > high speed taxi test because I wanted to minimize ground running with my new
> > engine. So on takeoff, I started slowly so I can react if the airspeed
> > didn't move or the uMonitor indicated something screwy. At 1/3 throttle,
> > the RV wanted to fly. Not wanting a partial power liftoff, I briskly moved
> > the throttle in and centered the stick. The acceleration makes me grin just
> > thinking about it, :-) At 100 ft up, the prop surged a couple times; by I
> > expected some burping because I read not to cycle the prop on the ground on
> > the new engine. Then the tower calls in and compliments the paint job.
> > What a time to talk about building airplanes. I gave him a quick Thanks,
> > and then he told me to switch freq. I then stared at the GX-65, that freq.
> > was not the two already loaded. I picked out freqs. quickly on the ground
> > from the info page, but damned if I could in the heat of things. So I
> > flipped the dials manually and settled down for 1.3 hrs of cruising around
> > the airport. I throttled back and looked at the tach and throttled back
> > some more. Then looked and the airspeed and thought stupid me, I ain't
> > flying the Champ anymore. Throttle in th 24 in. and pulled the prop back.
> > First time up with a CS prop. The left wing was slightly heavy and the ball
> > very close to centered. Not bad for a first time builder. A friend
> > overheard my call and came to fly chase in his C182. No way could he catch
> > me. GPS said 155 to 165 kts. Power was set at 24" and 2400 rpm. Fuel was
> > 10.5 gph, CHT was 200 C, oil at 84 psi and don't remember the oil temp.
> > After 1.2 hrs, I slowed down and did some turns at 65 kts. Then I slowed to
> > about 55 kts. It got mushy but didn't drop. I lowered the nose and then
> > headed on in. Not knowing how much added drag I'd get with the CS prop, I
> > kept a little power in until over the concrete. Landing was a little sloppy
> > because of some bad crosswind technique, but the -6 tamed it down well.
> > Yes, it was a good day.
> >
> > Some stats:
> > RV-6 #24187 N136RC Sliding canopy, 3900 building hrs from 12/95
> > New O-320 D1A & CS prop with homemade fiberglass cooling plenum
> > S-cowl, fiberglass duct to firewall mounted oil cooler
> > 2 piece pants, Al. leg fairings, homemade other fairings incld emp.
> > Carbon fiber panel overlay, basic VFR instr. w/ T&B, RMI uMonitor, Appollo
> > GX-65 GPS/Com, KT96A Xponder, Flush glovebox w/ fuse access
> > B&C & Aeroelctric electrical system & Orndorff seats
> > No insulation or carpet yet
> > PPG Concept paint, all parts alodined & AZKO primed before riveting
> > Weight 1047#
> > and one proud owner!
> >
> > Rick Caldwell
> > Melbourne, FL
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Severe Weather |
Hey Larry
Don't whine about the temps in the 70's and 3 knot winds. It was 8 below here
in Conecticut today with 20 knot winds, I flew my SIX and loved every minute
of it!
Happy Landings
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6 N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
Not quite the time of year to ask this question but...
The archive contains a few posts about a year back on gold tinting canopies.
The phone number for Flight Environment, Inc doesn't seem to be valid
anymore. It's someone's home. Airplane Plastics in Ohio does not do
tinting on finished canopies. Does anyone have leads on how/where to go
about tinting your canopies? A place in the East Coast would be helpful.
I'm particularly interested in the sputtering method, as opposed to the
stick-on method. Though I wouldn't rule anything out right away. Stick-on
is fine as long as doesn't interfere with the visibility too much.
Thanks in advance.
N985VU
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Custom Canopies |
Incidentally I just talked to Foxlite, OH earlier today. They no longer do
canopies. That part of the compa was sold and it now owned by Airplane
Plastics.
N985VU
RV-6
Maryland
>
>
>Ted,
>
> The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is called
Foxlite)
>will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I had Van's
delete
>my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from Foxlite
instead. The
>canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it.
>
>Joe
>RV-8 # 80125
>
>Northwest Connection wrote:
>
>> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Northwest Connection"
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone could provide me with some recommendations on
>> where I can get a custom canopy made to order -- somewhere in the Northwest
>> would be best. Thanks.
>>
>> Ted Burke
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Flight Environments was bought out by someone, I don't recall who, but they
got out of the canopy business from what I recall. They had the gold F-16
tint they could apply, but was very expensive.
If you can find a good tinter with alot of experience doing curved surfaces,
it is possible. A good friend of mine is a professional tinter with 20
years experience, and he can stretch/shrink about anything. He said that it
would be possible with my canopy, but it will definitely take two, maybe
three pieces. The problem is that even good quality tint only stretches or
shrinks in one direction, making complex curves just about impossible with
one piece. Not to mention, I would not want a heat gun to spend alot of
time on my canopy!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 8:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Tint
>
> Not quite the time of year to ask this question but...
> The archive contains a few posts about a year back on gold tinting
canopies.
> The phone number for Flight Environment, Inc doesn't seem to be valid
> anymore. It's someone's home. Airplane Plastics in Ohio does not do
> tinting on finished canopies. Does anyone have leads on how/where to go
> about tinting your canopies? A place in the East Coast would be helpful.
> I'm particularly interested in the sputtering method, as opposed to the
> stick-on method. Though I wouldn't rule anything out right away.
Stick-on
> is fine as long as doesn't interfere with the visibility too much.
> Thanks in advance.
> N985VU
> Maryland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Securing Fiberglass Nose Gear Faring |
I just purchased a nose gear faring from George Orndorff, and was curious to
know how builders attach this. Does it need to be filled with foam, ala the
main farings that the rocket guys sell? Are rivets applied to the trailing
edge?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Gear alignment, elevator twist, static port |
Hi guys!
I have questions.
I'm working on the main gear legs of my -4 and I'm just about ready to drill
the leg attach bolt holes. I don't want to screw 'em up so I've decided to
ask about others experiences with alignment before I take my best crack at
it.
What is the best way to get the alignment right?
Does it matter if the gear is toed in or out slightly?
Is one way better than the other?
I did the emp attach thing the last couple of weeks and noticed something.
The forward tip of my right elevator seems to have a twist in it and it
makes the eleveator appear to be missaligned. The twist makes right tip
stick up about 1/4" at the forward end.
Any ideas on how to fix this one?
Is this a common mistake/problem?
The got the static kit from vans and can't get one of the 1/8" tubes to stay
on the rivit with rtv silicon. I'll put it on and two hours latter its slid
off. It seems the tail of the rivit is just a bit too short to grip the
tube.
Is there a better type of adhesive for these two materials?
Is there a better way to attach it?
Thanks in advance!
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse getting geared
emp attached
trim cable/rudder cables test fit
elev control linkage and control sticks fit
Engine being rebuilt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | lighting requirements |
Hi again!
What are the current regs for lights on a new homebuilt?
I thought they were required equipment but Vans catalog says they are not
required. Is this still true?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse almost done
Engine being rebuilt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: lighting requirements |
In a message dated 1/18/00 11:13:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pperryrv(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< What are the current regs for lights on a new homebuilt?
I thought they were required equipment but Vans catalog says they are not
required. Is this still true? >>
For day/vfr, exterior lights are not required. If your mission goes beyond
this, you need to begin saving a few $...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was Severe Weather; Now, trip plans |
>
>Well.....that tears it! There just isn't any point in letting Larry have
>all the great flying weather all to himself. A couple of friends of mine
>are going to be flying our RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8's from north Alabama
>out to New Mexico and Arizona during the first week of February. I would
>love to hear from RV'ers in the Southwest about great places for us
>southern hicks to check out while we are in the Great Southwest. We
>can't make any promises about when we will be where since the weather
>(and our mood) will determine where/when we will fly.
>
>Please post any replies to the list since I am sure there are other
>RV'ers who would like to plan flights to the southwest area in the
>future. I am also interested in preferred routes to cross those little
>hills in New Mexico.
>
>I already have Sedona, AZ on my list.......
>
>Sam Buchanan (getting backup batteries for the GPS....)
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
Sam,
"Little hills"?? Hooboy! Are you in for some fun! First off, there's this
thing called the mixture control...which never goes full rich except to
start in these hyar parts. Gas economy yes. Power? Nope! The land of
fouled plugs and nosebleeds welcomes you and your southern RV brethren.
Larry, Pat, Craig, Sue, Dan, myself and other New Mexican RV'ers I haven't
met yet welcome you to the (at least for now) sunny southwest. Remember,
most of us in the Albuquerque area are at Double Eagle II airport (AEG).
Larry is in Carlsbad down south, but we let him come up north to visit. He's
well behaved and actually has a painted RV! Wow, imagine that, eh Pat? ;) We
can have a weenie roast on the wing of my shiny RV, if we can get the sun
aligned right.
Happy trails to ya and enjoy the ride.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Severe Weather |
Hi Bill,
My name is Don Champagne and I picked up on your e-mail to Larry Pardue.
So I thought I'd drop you a line since were almost neighbors.
I live in New Hampshire and keep an RV-6 at Keene Airport. I just
recently finished it and I'm in the testing fly off phase. We have a few
Rv'rs up here and it would be fun to get together with you guys also. If you
want to do something like that let me know.
I also noticed your "N" number as N747W I was curious if you are an
Airline type. My "N" number is N767DC I was a Delta Pilot till 3 years ago
when I retired.
Stay warm and good luck with your plane.
Best Regards,
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | jig available in Phoenix, AZ USA |
Well, I was thinking that I would never be able to say this, but my
fuselage came out of the jig this weekend. The jig is available to anyone
that will cart it away. It has built 3 rv's on it so far. It might do
another one.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9205L aa1-a rv trainer
rv-6a finishing fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lighting requirements |
Pat,
Lighting is not required on any aircraft as long as you want to fly day VFR
only. And part 91 does not apply to experimental aircraft (for disclaimer
fans) but if you want to fly anything other than day/VFR then you need to
read and comply with FAR 91.205 and 91.209 if you want your friendly FAA
inspector to include night and/or IFR.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB wires...wires..I'm going nuts with wires
"Das Fed"
>From: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: lighting requirements
>Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 03:56:11 GMT
>
>
>Hi again!
>
>What are the current regs for lights on a new homebuilt?
>
>I thought they were required equipment but Vans catalog says they are not
>required. Is this still true?
>
>
>Pat Perry
>Dallas, PA
>RV-4 fuse almost done
>Engine being rebuilt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | ideal size for workbench |
I'm the lucky one here. I live across town from Bill and he was kind
enough to lend me his dimpling table for my elevators. His table
shows the same excellent quality work as his empennage.
Bob
RV-8AQ (Rudder, moving along at a snail's pace...)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of The Von Dane's
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ideal size for workbench
Thanks Ralph...
But I can't take credit for the dimpling table... I found one like it
on a web site somewhere, but can't find it now to save my life...
Bill Von Dane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), waiting for wing kit
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Acceptable props for O-360 RV6A |
> I thought I saw a posting listing acceptable props that can be used on a
> RV6A with an O-360 engine, but I cant find it. Is there such a list?
>
> RV6A finishing kit.
If you're talking about constant speed props, I wrote an article on this
which was published in the RVator a while back (about 6 months ago I
think)... I don't have a copy handy. If you can't find it, shoot me a
private email and I'll dig it up. If you have an engine variation that's
different than the ones Vans sells (e.g. O-360-A1A) then you'll want to do
some careful checking to find which props have been tested on your engine
model. The TCDS can be found at http://av-info.faa.gov/tc/tcd5prop.htm
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (down for paint)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Melby <pmelby(at)midwestinfo.com> |
| Subject: | anodize vs alodine/prime |
I'm considering havine the internal components of my wing anodized.
Priming the entire lot seems too daunting a task (firing up the paint
booth sucks the heat out of my shop in short order). Are there any
precautions I should take?
Peter J. Melby
pmelby(at)midwestinfor.com
RV8 wings in work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
Ken,
I bought a set of ignition wrenches at an auto parts store. They are like
box end and open end wrenches but much smaller. I used two of them.
Sometimes, when I have an application where I can't hold the nut on, I use a
dab of two part epoxy on the nut and glue the nut to the end of the wrench.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
>
>Just for the record, how does one get the nut started on the bolt and
>properly torqued down in that tiny space?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
From: Scott A. Jordan, 71341,3505
RE: For Sale
David Clarck H10-30 headset. $232 new, factory overhaul last year asking
$150.
Also starter, alternator (not lightwieghts), carb for O-360 make an offer.
Scott A. Jordan
80331
914-297-2692
SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lighting requirements |
Message text written by Das Fed:
>And part 91 does not apply to experimental aircraft (for disclaimer
fans) but if you want to fly anything other than day/VFR then you need to
read and comply with FAR 91.205 and 91.209 if you want your friendly FAA
inspector to include night and/or IFR.<
The blanket statement that Part 91 does not apply to experimental aircraft
is wrong. 91.1 APPLICABILITY says in part "...this part prescribes rules
governing the operation of aircraft (other than...[no mention of
experimental]) within the United Syates..."
91.205 does standard category airworthiness certificate so you can argue
that one (but most likely lose).
91.209 starts off with "No person may..." there are NO exception hereand
all aircraft must have lighted postion lights etc.
You can also find several references to "civil aircraft" in part 91. One I
remember is 91.107 which allows military types to fly without seatbelts
(Yes the military is governed by 91 but has many exceptions).
Lets not confuse FAR 91 Operating rules with FAR23 certification rules
where we have more leeway!
Goes back to the old saying. " There is no standard in the FAA Flight
Standards branch. Keep calling different FSDO's until you get the answer
you want!"
Scott A. Jordan
80331
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Rick,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing canopy)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> |
| Subject: | rv3 fuselage fuel tank |
I have a few hundred hours on my RV3 that I built from a kit a few years
ago. I opted for the fuselage fuel tank with no fuel pumps to the O-320.
The only problem is that the longitudinal fuel baffle inside the tank has
become partially detached from its spot welds. In flight, positive pressure
is supplied to the tank by a pitot tube type vent. Maybe too much pressure?
Or could this just be a normal problem with the tank? Any one else have
this problem?
Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
For those who have used the Seal Pack version of proseal, how many tubes
does it take to do a set of tanks?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Custom Canopies |
Larry,
The canopy that comes in Van's finish kit is tinted, slightly.
After flying a bubbled canopy fighter in the Air National Guard, I know how
hot it will get and wanted some extra tint. The nice people at Foxlite (in
Ohio) sent me some free samples of 3 darker tint's. The one that they
recommend (and the one that I selected) is the next darker tint. They said
it is the darkest tint that they put on Certified Aircraft. The tint # is
2514. It is certified for night flight. The extra cost was $53 dollars
(1998 dollars). All money transactions are handled through Van's but they
drop ship the canopy directly from the factory to your doorstep.
Larry Bowen wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
> Tell us more. Don't Van's canopies have a slight tint to them? Is yours
> REALLY dark? Can you still fly at night? How much more did you pay?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 tanks
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe
> > Czachorowski
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 1:01 PM
> > Ted,
> >
> > The company that Van's deals with in Ohio (I think it is
> > called Foxlite)
> > will fix you up. They are very nice folks and very helpful. I
> > had Van's delete
> > my canopy from my finish kit and ordered a custom tint from
> > Foxlite instead. The
> > canopy came via Roadway in a cardboard box without a scratch on it.
> >
> > Joe
> > RV-8 # 80125
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear alignment, elevator twist, static port |
Hi Pat
Its a few years since I did the drill the gear leg thing on my 4, but I
didn't have the list to ask then. What I did was just very carefully follow
the instructions in the manual. Level the fus both ways, mark the center
line on the floor and clamp something very stiff between the axel ends of
the gear legs. Make sure the angle between the center line and the thing
clamped between the legs is 90 degress and the ends of the axels are the
same distance from the center line, and then drill the holes. Start small
with the drill bits, go slowly, with slow drill speeds,use lots of a good
lubricant and you should be fine.
Be sure to read the instructions well, the above is from memory. This is a
bit of a pain in the ass job but it is doable like everything else.
Your kit must be a few years old because I thin they are all drilled now
from the factory.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
>Hi guys!
>
>I have questions.
>
>I'm working on the main gear legs of my -4 and I'm just about ready to
drill
>the leg attach bolt holes. I don't want to screw 'em up so I've decided to
>ask about others experiences with alignment before I take my best crack at
>it.
>
>What is the best way to get the alignment right?
>Does it matter if the gear is toed in or out slightly?
>Is one way better than the other?
>
>I did the emp attach thing the last couple of weeks and noticed something.
>The forward tip of my right elevator seems to have a twist in it and it
>makes the eleveator appear to be missaligned. The twist makes right tip
>stick up about 1/4" at the forward end.
>
>Any ideas on how to fix this one?
>Is this a common mistake/problem?
>
>The got the static kit from vans and can't get one of the 1/8" tubes to
stay
>on the rivit with rtv silicon. I'll put it on and two hours latter its
slid
>off. It seems the tail of the rivit is just a bit too short to grip the
>tube.
>
>Is there a better type of adhesive for these two materials?
>Is there a better way to attach it?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Pat Perry
>Dallas, PA
>RV-4 fuse getting geared
>emp attached
>trim cable/rudder cables test fit
>elev control linkage and control sticks fit
>Engine being rebuilt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | re: Securing fiberglass nose gear fairing |
Paul Besing wrote:
"I just purchased a nose gear faring from George Orndorff, and was curious
to
know how builders attach this. Does it need to be filled with foam, ala the
main farings that the rocket guys sell? Are rivets applied to the trailing
edge?"
We installed our fairing on the -6A by riveting a hinge up the trailing edge
as you suggest. Seems to work fine, no problem. There's a picture on our
homepage that shows the gear and fairing with the sun shining through it -
you can see about where the hinge is. We did not fill with foam, and it
seems to be reasonably snug on the gear.
http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/YosemiteDr/n110kb/RV6-A.html
Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q) Flying! (hope to get a little more time this
weekend)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anodize vs alodine/prime |
Precautions - Be prepared to empty your wallet. Anodizing is typically
double the cost of professional alodining.
Most shops that anodize, can also alodine. Which unless you're really
paranoid, would probably suffice for internal corrosion protection.
Jeff.
On Wed, 19 Jan 2000, Peter Melby wrote:
>
> I'm considering havine the internal components of my wing anodized.
> Priming the entire lot seems too daunting a task (firing up the paint
> booth sucks the heat out of my shop in short order). Are there any
> precautions I should take?
>
> Peter J. Melby
> pmelby(at)midwestinfor.com
> RV8 wings in work
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anodize vs alodine/prime |
Precautions - Be prepared to empty your wallet. Anodizing is typically
double the cost of professional alodining.
Most shops that anodize, can also alodine. Which unless you're really
paranoid, would probably suffice for internal corrosion protection.
Jeff.
On Wed, 19 Jan 2000, Peter Melby wrote:
>
> I'm considering havine the internal components of my wing anodized.
> Priming the entire lot seems too daunting a task (firing up the paint
> booth sucks the heat out of my shop in short order). Are there any
> precautions I should take?
>
> Peter J. Melby
> pmelby(at)midwestinfor.com
> RV8 wings in work
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Securing Fiberglass Nose Gear Faring |
Paul,
The nose gear fairing should have a hinge at the trailing edge and a hose
clamp at the bottom per Van's plans. It should be attached to the cowling
with a fiberglass intersection fairing. (Which we hope to have available in
about a month.) Putting foam in it is not recommended as you want the gear
to float inside the fairing.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap Engraving |
Tom and Listers
This is the last week for those that have not got there caps in. I will
start them Monday. Sorry about the delay but would like to give a few people
who have told me they sent their caps time to get here. For those who want to
send them that haven't now is the time to do so. If they are a little late
that's OK but prefer you send them NOW. Listed below are the one's I have
received so far. I also have a few that were redo's from last time that will
be done with this batch I hope this hasn't delayed anyone but I just decided
to do all when I set them up.
John Warren
Bill Gibbs
Robert Acker
Craig Weiler
Jim Wendel
Kevin Belue
David Plerson
Tom Ervin
Dale Wotring
Pete Bodie
Mel Jordan
Gerald Forrest
Randy Pflanzer
Steven Cole
Scott Chambers
Curtis Shoemaker
Thanks
Steve Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | syringes and paint |
Since the AKZO I have came in two large paint cans, handling this can
get a bit messy.
I have found it super easy to use a large medical syringe . . . slurp up the
thin "clear" stuff and squirt it in. Stir, pour into the paint sprayer, and
go
to town. You don't have to handle the large paint cans . . . and you can
mix whatever you need with great accuracy (not that you need that much
accuracy).
Let me add my 2 cents here. Just this week, Monday night it was, I was
preparing to prime a few small parts. (I've been using Stits epoxy primer,
works great on steel for sure. Seems to be great on the aluminum I've done
so far. Please no primer comments.) I was patting myself on the back for
having remembered to liberate a brand new 30cc polyethylene syringe from a
large pharmaceutical company. My plan was to suck up enough green stuff to
half fill my small airbrush. (The airbrush is available from any hobby
store for next to nothing and it fantastic for priming small stuff, which
would be almost everything on an RV. Am I smart, or what? ....don't answer
that.) The plan was really coming together as I had transferred the paint
with NO MESS, added the catalyst, and the thinner. I stirred the mixture
with a wooden stir stick, as usual. Then when I withdrew the stick I saw
fisheyes. Eeuuw, not good. I tried to spray a part but had fisheyes
everywhere. Dang! Must have been something on the stick.
I tried a second batch with the same results. DANG! Now I'm getting
perturbed. A closer inspection of my brand new 30cc, suitable for
injections directly into your bloodsteam, syringe revealed a silicone rubber
plunger tip. DANG, DANG, DANG. Another plan bites the dust.
Today I will be getting a GLASS 30cc syringe for this job.
So, go get a glass or plastic syringe for these small jobs. Just make sure
there isn't any silicone hidden in there before you use it. To do this you
can use a popsicle stick to transfer a small amount of paint and thinner
into or onto the syringe parts. You'll be able to tell if there is silicone
in there by the behavior of the paint. This little test will save you some
time and $$$$.
Vince in Indiana
RV-4 N94VF sold
HRII N314VF tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Norm closed press switch |
Does anyone have a supplier for a normally closed pressure switch, 1/8"
NPT that could be used for a low oil/fuel press light? ACS and others
have a normally open for running a Hobbs but not a normally closed as
far as I can see.
Along these lines who has done a good annunciator panel setup? I'm
wondering about proper impedence values do equalize the lights, a common
push to test button and where to connect for the various lights. (i.e.
starter on, fuel pump on, flaps down etc.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com> |
| Subject: | Hang'n the Radios |
Hi guys,
Half the fun of building these airplanes is stepping into the unknown. And that's
where I am -
-- ready to ask another dumb question. I've cut my instrument panel for my radios
(one com
and one xponder). And I discovered how to remove the radios from their metal frames.
So
far, so good. Now for the question: What do I attach the metal frames to? I see
where I
can put small screws through the sides of the metal frames. Any suggestions on
what I should
build for them to anchor to? What kind of nut should I use--- a tinnerman?
I suppose the answer is obvious, but I've learned to ask before I start engineering
a whiz-
bang moustrap solution.
Having fun cutting the instrument panel! This is really looking like an airplane!
Now I have to
be careful when I sit in my airplane --- don't want to get the instruments all
wet when I make
my airplane noises.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, panel & electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
I think I used one 6oz tube each tank for the skin and ribs. I waited to do
the rear baffles and I used one 6 oz tube for both tanks. I also used a 2 1/2
oz tube of the low adhesive (the pink stuff) stuff for the access plates and
fuel senders. You'll want to order a small tube of the gray stuff for small
holes and lower corners of the firewall as well.
You don't need a lot of this stuff. Lay down a bead about 3/16 of an inch
wide on the ribs. Having a helper will make life a lot easier. A final
suggestion, get a box of the thin, skin tight vinyl gloves (or rubber if
Latex doesn't scare you) and wear them in layers. As the gloves get gooped-up
with the sealant just peal-off the glove to expose a fresh one. I wore three
pair at a time.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
Who has mounted an Airflow forward facing fuel controller on an IO-360
with Van's cowl?
It doesn't appear that the Vans "S" duct will work. The Airflow sticks
out further than a stock Bendix. How did you get the air in?
I'd like to do a straight in via chin scoop like an 0-360 setup,
possibly non-filtered for best ram and then an alternate filtered
version from inside the cowl or the forward deck of the baffle.
Guess this means a bunch of glass work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Mounting |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
ken,
don't be too bashful about trimming the HS skin out at the tips. the only
thing that skin needs to do is hold another fiberglass fairing. when you
install that, i would recommend giving yourself at least 3/16" clearance
(before paint) between the HS tip and the ELEV counterbalance.
be careful about adjusting your rod end bearings. doing so *might* slightly
change the alignment of the horn. as we have seen on the list lately, if the
horn is misaligned it is a real pain. it also *might* affect the range of
movement because you *might* get interference from somewhere else, like the
HS top skin, or the rear bulkhead. so make sure you have the proper distance
from the spar to the rod end, per the plans. bottom line, be real careful
about changing anything! think about it, stare at the drawings, and try to
anticipate the downstream effects on other components.
have fun,
louis cappuci
rv-6a finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
----------
>From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>To: RV-List Digest List
>Subject: RV-List Digest: 01/18/00
>Date: Wed, Jan 19, 2000, 2:57 AM
>
>
>After taking an hour for lunch, I realized that all I needed to do to make
>the counterweight arm clear the HS skin was to back the rod end bearings out
>a bit. I took one turn off each of them and the elevator swings fine now.
>
>Thanks to all for the good suggestions regarding getting those bolts in
>place. When the time comes to permanently mount the control surfaces, I'll
>make myself a bolt-putter-inner. Until then, those Avery pins work like a
>charm.
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: aileron pushrod clearance |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
charlie,
i had the same problem. i copied what i saw on my friends flaps...
i trimmed the flap, but cut it at an angle. i took about 0.5" from the
leading edge, and then cut down at an angle of about 70 degrees, until i
reached the edge. in other words, i removed a triangle of material about
0.5" wide and 1.5" high.
it only shows when the flaps are down more than halfway, but then again.
most rv's get parked with the flaps full down, so i understand your concern.
believe me, it is barely noticeable, and even then it looks like it belongs
there if you do a clean job.
maybe this is what you meant below by a "notch," i'm not sure. but i don't
think you would want to make any sort of cut which goes inboard and then
back outboard because the flap might get jammed on the wing skin when
retracted.
as far as moving the bellcrank...do you wanna build 'em or fly 'em???
good luck,
louis cappucci
rv-6a finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
----------
>From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>To: RV-List Digest List
>Subject: RV-List Digest: 01/18/00
>Date: Wed, Jan 19, 2000, 2:57 AM
>
>While installing the the flaps, the aileron push rod, from the bell
>crank to the aileron, would not clear the leading edge flap flange when
>the aileron was moved to the full down position. All measurements are
>very close to plan specs. I would have to cut approx an inch off the
>outboard leading edge of the flap flange to insure clearance. Van
>acknowledged the problem was not unheard of and suggested a combination
>of trimming the flap flange, moving the flap inboard, and mounting the
>aileron push rod connection outboard within the aileron bracket vice the
>inboard edge as shown in the plan. I did as they suggested and the push
>rod now clears, but with minimum clearance. I now get about a sixteenth
>inch clearance between the rod and the flap with the aileron full down,
>and a sixteenth inch clearance between the rod and the aileron hinge
>with the aileron full up. I'm not happy with the clearances.
>
>Tim Lewis said he had a similar problem and cut a rather large notch in
>the flap flange which only shows with the flaps deployed. That may be my
>solution also, though I am looking for a way to avoid it.
>
>As most of you are aware, the RV-6 wing is essentially the same as the
>RV-4. In the RV-4, the aileron pushrod is parallel to the wing ribs with
>the aileron in neutral. In the RV-6, the rod runs at approx 20 degrees
>to the ribs, with the aileron connection outboard of the bell crank. In
>my opinion, the best fix is to redesign the location of the aileron bell
>crank, though I'm not engineer enough to figure out how.
>
>Has anybody had similar problems? What was the fix? Has anybody
>redesigned the bell crank location?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | : 6A tip-up canopy frame fit. |
. And one last item, I have
>seen some people use a stop just in front of the strut mount on the
tipup
>to prevent the strut from pushing the canopy forward. David Ahrens,
>RV-6A
>fuselage
===============================
Thanks Dave:
I got the paint off last nite & the form cut & the skin rivetted down
today.
Sure getting a lot of help from you guys. About to put it up for sale
again.
Now I am ready for the glass.
The frame is almost touching the instrument panel. That sounds like a
good idea if the glass don't help. After the canopy frame passes high
center the bending goes away.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Mounting |
Hi Louis,
In a message dated 1/19/2000 10:13:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> ken,
>
> don't be too bashful about trimming the HS skin out at the tips. the only
> thing that skin needs to do is hold another fiberglass fairing. when you
> install that, i would recommend giving yourself at least 3/16" clearance
> (before paint) between the HS tip and the ELEV counterbalance.
I was wondering what that dimension ought to be, as I couldn't find it on any
of the drawings I have so far.
> be careful about adjusting your rod end bearings. doing so *might* slightly
> change the alignment of the horn. as we have seen on the list lately, if
the
> horn is misaligned it is a real pain. it also *might* affect the range of
> movement because you *might* get interference from somewhere else, like the
> HS top skin, or the rear bulkhead. so make sure you have the proper
distance
> from the spar to the rod end, per the plans. bottom line, be real careful
> about changing anything! think about it, stare at the drawings, and try to
> anticipate the downstream effects on other components.
I couldn't agree more about the care to be taken when contemplating changes
to the plans. The only reason I even considered altering the spar to bearing
dimension is that the manual says it "...may be adjusted to assure that the
elevator swings smoothly." Perhaps this is a better question for Van's tech
support. I'll give them a call tonight.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel line holes |
Some of us are using the #6 bulkhead fittings in the stead of grommits and solid
lines. the bulkhead fitting requires a few more pieces but I am very satisified
with my installation and for what its worth all 5 RV's at our airport have used
the same process.
e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net on 01/18/2000 07:43:25 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: fuel line holes
What size holes have you guys cut in the fuse for fuel lines from wing
tanks and what size gromets did you use if any to prevent chafing of
fuel line?
Earl still trying to plumb the 4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | : 6A tip-up canopy frame fit. |
David, Don:
I can't picture this stop that you describe. Are there any photos on the
Web?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----. And one last item, I have
>seen some people use a stop just in front of the strut
mount on the
tipup
>to prevent the strut from pushing the canopy forward.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aeroflash question-STROBES |
I talked at length with the Whellen manf. rep at the Atlantic City AOPA show
last month & asked the very same questions. I got a good education on the
differences between the two units ( brand A & brand W). The Whellen rep did not
spam or slam the Aeroflash unit...he presented a good technical comparison. The
quartz glass on the " W " units have a magnifying lens of greater
concentration, have more loops of flash tube sitting higher out into the lens
area, have a higher Joule value and some more superior items I can't recall
right now. I recall my solution was if I am feeling poor the month I purchase my
blinkers I will go with the brand A , If I was feeling flush that month...brand
W.......There is a definite advantage to the brand W though.....I hate
decisions....
bjapundza(at)dowagro.com on 01/18/2000 05:13:38 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: aeroflash question
Hello Listers,
Has anyone out there used Aeroflash wingtip strobes with a Whelen power
supply? The instructions that I have from Whelen tell you how to connect
their unit to Aeroflash strobes; I'm guessing the reason why Aeroflash
strobes are not as bright as the Whelen's have to do with the power supplies
that come with them. I'll bet there's little difference between the strobe
tubes. I have a Whelen power supply behind my baggage compartment but do
not have the wingtip strobes yet, and am considering the Aeroflash units
because they are substantially cheaper. I also know that the Aeroflash
strobes are shaped differently than the Whelen A650's--but I'm not sure if
they would fit onto Van's wingtip light extensions...has anyone mounted
Aeroflash strobes onto Van's extensions?
Thanks,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 fuse completely done/painted, wings 60% done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I found a very acceptable (and very cheap) alternative to expensive gold
tinting.....go to Wal-Mart auto section and for $12 or so you can get a BIG
roll of electrostatic adhering tinted plastic-like material made for auto
windows in various colors and densities. I got it to fit pretty well on the
tip-up RV-6A canopy by putting it on in two pieces (joined or butted at the
center line.) I put it down the sides a bit and overhead...it extends far
enough forward so that I have good sun protection (for my poor old bald
head) and it reduces the total glare in the cockpit. There is enough
material in one $12 roll to do five or six RVs. It stays in place quite
well...almost three years now and no sign of it coming loose, but you could
simply pull it away if you wished with no harm whatever to the plexi.
FWIW RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
| Subject: | Organizing contact informtion for RVators in the southern US |
(Van
's Air Force - Southern Region).
Hello, my name is Doug Reeves and a little over a year ago I created the
web presence for the Texas Wing of V.A.F.
(http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf_texas.htm). Currently, the Texas
listing has 200+ people, which I (and hopefully others) find helpful when
trying to contact other RVators in our state. Over the past year, I have
received up to 5 requests a week from people outside Texas wanting to be
listed, and not having the heart to turn them away, I have gone ahead and
created listings for all the states in the southern US. It doesn't cost
anything, and all I'm looking for (information wise) is what you're willing
to provide.
You can access this page at http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vafsr.htm. If
you're interested in having your contact info listed, please email it to me
at dreeves(at)metronet.com (not my work email above).
Best regards,
Doug Reeves (6 Fuse)
Lewisville, TX
972.315.0430 h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting elevators |
I've had good luck with a sharp metal pick, old fashion long skinny ice pick or
a dental pick that is sharp. You can start the threading by pushing the nut
around the first few threads with a sharp scribe or tapered triangled X-acto
blade in a skinny X-acto handle. I've also used heat shrink around the nut and
a
long piece of heat shrink at a slight angle and twins the nut
on.......Sometimes Two scribes----one scribe to pin the nut thru its center hole
to the center on the bolt shank and the second scribe to wiggle/rotate the nut
around the shank to catch the threads. An benefit is the first scribe pins the
nut in place (sorta) and if you are careful it won't drop down out of sight in
whatcase I have put many miles on the flexiable magnet wand (Sears---$5.99)....
Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 01/18/2000 03:39:05 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting elevators
In a message dated 1/18/2000 11:00:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
> (Oh Ha Ha Ha......) Just kidding. There are no stupid questions Ken.
Thanks, Randy. I know that, of course, but I felt a bit sheepish about
confessing a problem with something that at least 2300+ guys had already
figured out.
Just for the record, how does one get the nut started on the bolt and
properly torqued down in that tiny space?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hang'n the Radios |
Your radio trays need at least two anchor points....rivet some anfle aluimun to
the backside of your pannel so the countersunked holes in your trays will
receive the angle braces & in the rear suspend the rear of the tray with a
longish metal arm from somewhere above the radios at a angle. Be sure your
design dosen't interfear with the connectors or access to play around
latter.....
clayfly(at)libertybay.com on 01/19/2000 01:10:22 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Hang'n the Radios
Hi guys,
Half the fun of building these airplanes is stepping into the unknown. And
that's where I am -
-- ready to ask another dumb question. I've cut my instrument panel for my
radios (one com
and one xponder). And I discovered how to remove the radios from their metal
frames. So
far, so good. Now for the question: What do I attach the metal frames to? I see
where I
can put small screws through the sides of the metal frames. Any suggestions on
what I should
build for them to anchor to? What kind of nut should I use--- a tinnerman?
I suppose the answer is obvious, but I've learned to ask before I start
engineering a whiz-
bang moustrap solution.
Having fun cutting the instrument panel! This is really looking like an
airplane! Now I have to
be careful when I sit in my airplane --- don't want to get the instruments all
wet when I make
my airplane noises.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, panel & electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hang'n the Radios |
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Hi guys,
>Half the fun of building these airplanes is stepping into the unknown. And
>that's where I am -
>-- ready to ask another dumb question. I've cut my instrument panel for my
>radios (one com
>and one xponder). And I discovered how to remove the radios from their
>metal frames. So
>far, so good. Now for the question: What do I attach the metal frames to?
My solution was to rivet aluminum angle along the back sides of the
opening, then screw the radio trays to the angle. It is good to support
the trays at the back also. In my tip up the hole in the subpanel worked
well for that.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Web Update - Panel |
I've posted a real rough first draft of a panel Idea using Panel Planner
Software. I've heard that the led's in the trim indicators can be very
bright at night so I'll probably move them and/or use a seperate dimmer for
them. Those types of details are a long way off though.
As always, feedback is apprecialted.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/panel.htm
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Norm closed press switch |
Joe,
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies has these in 20 psi and 30 psi for oil pressure
warning lights. They are single terminal grounding types with 1/8 NPT male
threads. Their web site is at:
http://www.execpc.com/~pegasus/
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A horizontal stabilizer (empennage kit finally arrived yesterday).
-----Original Message-----
Does anyone have a supplier for a normally closed pressure switch, 1/8"
NPT that could be used for a low oil/fuel press light? ACS and others
have a normally open for running a Hobbs but not a normally closed as
far as I can see.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:46:27.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Was Severe Weather; Now, trip plans |
01/19/2000 09:50:08 AM
Sam,
Sedona is a great destination, another is Page and Marble Canyon airports.
Page is on Lake Powell and you can fly down the lake and check out the
Natural bridge (just watch out for the tour airplanes). Marble Canyon is
actually down in a canyon extension from the Grand Canyon (don't worry, it
is about 5 or six miles wide at this point), and has a restaurant and hotel
across the "highway" from the airport. The runway has a dogleg in it
toward the parking end, but it is a really pretty flight. Make sure you
have the Grand Canyon special flight rules chart because the feds have
decided that it isn't the tour airplanes making all the noise, it is the
couple of hundred or so private planes that destroy the "natural quiet" of
the canyon. After you leave Marble canyon you can take one of the VFR
flyways across the canyon (they don't let you go very low) on your way down
to Falcon Field (FFZ) in Mesa. At FFZ you can taxi right up to Anzio's
Landing, a really good Italian restaraunt where I will buy you lunch prior
to your giving me a ride in that sharp looking RV-6 of yours!! :-)
While at FFZ you can tour the Champlain Fighter Museum and one of the CAF
wing's museum. You can also fly down to Tucson and get a rental car and
tour the Pima air museum and the AZ/Sonora Desert Museum.
There are more places that would be neat, don't know how long you intend to
be in the area, though.
Scott Fink
RV6, almost ready to close the left wing (no, I really mean it now,
really!)
Well.....that tears it! There just isn't any point in letting Larry have
all the great flying weather all to himself. A couple of friends of mine
are going to be flying our RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8's from north Alabama
out to New Mexico and Arizona during the first week of February. I would
love to hear from RV'ers in the Southwest about great places for us
southern hicks to check out while we are in the Great Southwest. We
can't make any promises about when we will be where since the weather
(and our mood) will determine where/when we will fly.
Sam Buchanan (getting backup batteries for the GPS....)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: was Mounting elevators,( bad horn) |
For whats its worth there is a mis-match on my rv4 as well as the two rv-6's on
the field. The mis-match still allowed a single pivot bolt ...just barely.
Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 01/18/2000 12:56:00 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: was Mounting elevators,( bad horn)
In a message dated 1/18/2000 12:45:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
robbax(at)sympatico.ca writes:
>
> Ken
> Invest in a pair of 9.5" long forceps. They are very thin and somewhat
> flexible and they lock down on the bolt. A little tape on the end of the
> forceps adds a little friction so the bolt won't slip in the forceps.A
piece
> of wood 3/8"dowel comes in handy to lightly open the 2 HS 412 faces so the
> bearing can slide in.
Sounds like a good solution to me. I'll try and snag a pair this spring at
Sun 'n Fun. Somebody's bound to have them.
> I've had my right elevator on and off so much I could go to work for OTIS
as
> a consultant.
Ha!
Sorry to hear about your elevator horn woes. Yours is the first instance of
this particular problem of which I'm aware. My right horn is fine and the
left one looks good so far. I'll be holding my breath for the next few days
until I can get the left elevator finished and see how looks when riveted in
place. Good luck with yours. FWIW, I wouldn't've jumped at the
drilling-my-elevator-apart option, either.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Steen Labs Throttle Quadrant |
| From: | <psmith(at)marin.org> |
Hi Everyone:
Has anyone used the Steen Aero Labs throttle quadrants in their RV?
Specifically, I'd like to fit their three lever quadrant in my RV 8. Rough
measurements indicate that it may fit, but there may be issues that I'm
unaware of.
Thanks,
Phil
Philip D. Smith
RV 8QB, 80691
Fairfax, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for inside battery box |
>
>It is not a paint, but when I was a helicopter mechanic for PHI in the gulf
>they mixed 2216 adhesive (it's thin) and painted the box area. It takes a
>couple of days to fully cure but the box is acid proof and sealed
>afterwards.
Unless you're planning to install a slobber-pot style
battery, there's no need to paint the battery box
for any effect other than esthetics . . .
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Help on Fuel Filter Screen Size |
Listers, does anybody know what is "common" screen sizes are in automotive
type in-line fuel filters?
Specifically I am trying to determine the size for the Russel 'clear flow
plus fuel filter' (JEG'S High Performance part # 799-4547). The filter is
a sintered bronze cleanable element.
My concern is that the filter element is too fine and could clog up easily.
I plan to have a gasolator downstream from these in-line filters also. Any
idea what the "common" screen size of a gasolator is? Are all gasolators
screen sizes 60 mesh/in as shown in Tony Bingelis on Engines handbook?
Thanks for enlightening us newcomers!
Lothar |||-6A tip up; odd tasks before starting canopy ||| Lakewood/
Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
I will be starting my wings shortly and I need to build a wood mockup to
determine if I can get the wingsout of the basement without taking out a wall
(which my wife won't let me do). Can someone send me the finished dimension of
an RV-6 wing? I need the total spar length, total length of the skin, the
thickness (thickest ribs + skin thickness I presume) and the width (cord)
without the airlerons or flaps attached.
Thanks in advance
Mike Nellis
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lighting requirements |
OK..OK...Get nit-picky on me now ;-) You know what I mean.
Mike
DO NOT ARCHIEVE
>From: "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: lighting requirements
>Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 08:01:55 -0500
>
>
>Message text written by Das Fed:
> >And part 91 does not apply to experimental aircraft (for disclaimer
>fans) but if you want to fly anything other than day/VFR then you need to
>read and comply with FAR 91.205 and 91.209 if you want your friendly FAA
>inspector to include night and/or IFR.<
>
>The blanket statement that Part 91 does not apply to experimental aircraft
>is wrong. 91.1 APPLICABILITY says in part "...this part prescribes rules
>governing the operation of aircraft (other than...[no mention of
>experimental]) within the United Syates..."
>
>91.205 does standard category airworthiness certificate so you can argue
>that one (but most likely lose).
>
>91.209 starts off with "No person may..." there are NO exception hereand
>all aircraft must have lighted postion lights etc.
>
>You can also find several references to "civil aircraft" in part 91. One I
>remember is 91.107 which allows military types to fly without seatbelts
>(Yes the military is governed by 91 but has many exceptions).
>
>Lets not confuse FAR 91 Operating rules with FAR23 certification rules
>where we have more leeway!
>
>Goes back to the old saying. " There is no standard in the FAA Flight
>Standards branch. Keep calling different FSDO's until you get the answer
>you want!"
>
>Scott A. Jordan
>80331
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-360 F1A6 for my RV-8A? |
Hi all...
I am interested in buying a Lycoming O-360 F1A6 for my RV-8A.
It came out of a 172RG. I believe it has the carb mounted on the rear of
the sump.
Can anyone tell me if, in fact, this engine will work in an RV-8A? And what
may need to be done to it to make it fit? And how much this may cost?
Thanks in advance...
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | adel clamps on exhaust |
I, too, broke several sets of adel clamps and hose clamps at the exhaust to
bracket junction. Columbia Aeromotive found some very heavy gauge, extra
wide adel type clamps that have worked well. Mine came off some WWII A/C
originally. Standard auto muffler clamps don't stay tight, there is a lot
of expansion/contraction taking place. I have rigid aluminum connections
from the oil pan to the exhaust pipe and over to the other pipe, so it all
moves with the engine. Those course threaded sump bolts don't look too
strong but have held up to 500+hrs and 5+G's. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dimensions |
mike.nellis(at)mcd.com wrote:
> I will be starting my wings shortly and I need to build a wood mockup to
> determine if I can get the wingsout of the basement without taking out a wall
> (which my wife won't let me do). Can someone send me the finished dimension
of
> an RV-6 wing? I need the total spar length, total length of the skin, the
> thickness (thickest ribs + skin thickness I presume) and the width (cord)
> without the airlerons or flaps attached.
Mike,
You should be able to get most of these dimensions off your preview
plans. Spar length IIRC is 108". All ribs are the same, about 8" thick
at the spar.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Wed, 19 Jan 2000 11:21:57.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: jig available in Phoenix, AZ USA |
01/19/2000 11:25:39 AM
Tom,
If it is still available, I will take it!!!!! I could even be over this
weekend to pick it up, I live on the East end of the valley, but I will
have to go to DVT this weekend to work on my spam can.
Scott Fink
scott.fink(at)microchip.com
Thomas Velvick
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: jig available
in Phoenix, AZ USA
ronics.com
01/18/2000 09:54 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
Well, I was thinking that I would never be able to say this, but my
fuselage came out of the jig this weekend. The jig is available to anyone
that will cart it away. It has built 3 rv's on it so far. It might do
another one.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
N9205L aa1-a rv trainer
rv-6a finishing fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dimensions |
Length 127" including spar extension
Chord 47" w/o flap or aileron
Depth at spar 8"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
104.25 X 48 + a 22.5 inches of spar.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
Can someone send me the finished
>dimension of
>an RV-6 wing? I need the total spar length, total length of the skin,
>the
>thickness (thickest ribs + skin thickness I presume) and the width
>(cord)
>without the airlerons or flaps attached.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Mike Nellis
>http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-360 F1A6 for my RV-8A? |
Bill,
I don't think any engine with an aft mounted carb/servo will work on the 8A
because of the nose gear mounting on the engine mount. There is not much
room behind the sump on my IO-360 with the nose gear there. Suggest you
look and measure first.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: Rv-List
>Subject: RV-List: Lycoming O-360 F1A6 for my RV-8A?
>Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 10:52:23 -0700
>
>
>Hi all...
>
>I am interested in buying a Lycoming O-360 F1A6 for my RV-8A.
>
>It came out of a 172RG. I believe it has the carb mounted on the rear of
>the sump.
>
>Can anyone tell me if, in fact, this engine will work in an RV-8A? And
>what
>may need to be done to it to make it fit? And how much this may cost?
>
>Thanks in advance...
>
>-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
>http://vondane.tripod.com
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Steen Labs Throttle Quadrant |
I eyeballed their advirtisement in Trade-a-Plane & I only saw "reversing" throw
quadrants. We need non-reversing throws or else a complicated throw reversing
rube-goldberg somewhere down the line before the carb. They may have the type we
need and it was'nt in the picture I saw. Seems pricey........
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-360 F1A6 for my RV-8A? |
Be sure you match the prop to the engine and the hub & extension to Vans Cowl.
By match I mean FAA certification for the match pair (engine & prop). ALSO the
-A is the nose dragger?? I have a rear mounted carb on a tail dragger so I
don't have the nosewheel weldments to contend with but I did have to contend
with the control cables to the carb which was closer to the fire wall. (Not
impossible but a little head scratching.) Your issue will be possible
interference with the nose wheel weldments & if a fuel injector-the mounting and
run of the breather line as complicated with the weldment. Not an impossible....
task a lot of rv6a-ers figured this combo out.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Norm closed press switch |
I just started mine, I have the canopy unlatched light done working on the
flaps, and trim. I prefer to use LED's they are small, light weight, they
dont burn out and the brightness is easly set with the current limiting
resistor. i will be adding some pictures to my web site soon.
www.flash.net/~hsierra
just my 2c worth
bob burns
RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524
Along these lines who has done a good annunciator panel setup? I'm
>wondering about proper impedence values do equalize the lights, a common
>push to test button and where to connect for the various lights. (i.e.
>starter on, fuel pump on, flaps down etc.)
>
>
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January 13, 2000 - January 19, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ht