RV-Archive.digest.vol-hu
January 19, 2000 - January 25, 2000
| Subject: | Re: Wing Dimensions |
> without the airlerons or flaps attached.
Don't forget the attach brackets are part of the game even if you size without
the flaps or ailerons......(Talking about the brackets that attach the
ailerons...the flap is held in place with hinge......keep the pin in the hinge
if your hinge is mounted-don't ask me how I know this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing dimensions |
Hi
Don't forget that you can leave your tank off too. That is what made it
possible for me to get my wing out of my basement. Kept my wife happy too.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
second wing
Peshtigo. WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Norm closed press switch |
"dont burn out and the brightness is easly set with the current limiting
resisters".......Be careful those resisters get very hot but otherwise agree
that LEDS are a great way to go for indicator lights & night lights. Come in
various colors also.
hsierra(at)flash.net on 01/19/2000 02:59:39 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Norm closed press switch
I just started mine, I have the canopy unlatched light done working on the
flaps, and trim. I prefer to use LED's they are small, light weight, they
dont burn out and the brightness is easly set with the current limiting
resistor. i will be adding some pictures to my web site soon.
www.flash.net/~hsierra
just my 2c worth
bob burns
RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524
Along these lines who has done a good annunciator panel setup? I'm
>wondering about proper impedence values do equalize the lights, a common
>push to test button and where to connect for the various lights. (i.e.
>starter on, fuel pump on, flaps down etc.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 01/19/1970, 9:42:50 AM, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<>
Seal Pack
316.942.6211
Part Number CS3200B 1/2
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC-NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing dimensions |
D O N " T F O R G E T T H E B R A C K E T S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Subject Radio Question |
Bob, you can get current and outdated installation manuals from------
ESSCO, INC.
426 W. Turkeyfoot Lake Rd.
Akron, Ohio 44319
330-644-7724/Fax330-644-0886
E-Mail esscoeast(at)aol.com
This info is in the Yeller Pages
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 1/19/00 5:22:36 PM GMT Standard Time,
robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com writes:
<<
This isn't RV related, but I'm hoping someone on the list might have
some information.
I'm trying to do a favor for a friend by wiring up an old Narco Mark
12B boat anchor as a receive-only hangar radio. Does anyone have a
connection diagram for this radio? I've checked the archives and
everywhere I can on the Internet but can't find one. The radio was
removed from a Cessna T210 when the FCC regulations changed.
Please respond off-list to Robert.Armstrong(at)wcom.com.
Thanks!
Bob
RV-8AQ Rudder >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was Severe Weather; Now, trip plans |
A couple of friends of mine are going to be flying our
RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8's from north Alabama out to New
Mexico and Arizona during the first week of February.
I already have Sedona, AZ on my list.......
Sam Buchanan (getting backup batteries for the
GPS....)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
Sam:
I would like to get the SoCAL Wing of Van's Air Force
to fly out and meet you. Almost every Sunday morning,
several RVs fly somewhere for breakfast. I would love
to make one of the breakfast fly-outs include your
group. I will fly to Sedona for breakfast. Let us
know a possible rendezvous location. My suggestion
Big Bear City (L35). If you wish to fly as far west
as California.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing dimensions |
Now getting the fuselage out of the basement is another story...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Securing Fiberglass Nose Gear Faring |
Paul Besing re: nose gear fairing--
On mine, I just riveted the hinge halves, same as on main gear, made the two
pieces of hinge wire meet in about the center of the fairing (half way up to
the cowling). I then used a hose clamp on the lower half. Works fine.
Jim RV6A 30hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Wing dimensions |
Mike:
One thought for you before you go to the trouble with 4x8 sheets of
ply......You can make a wood spar from some 2x4's and then temporarily
attach 4 main ribs and 3 of the leading edge ribs. Support them with some
baces on the tip and root ribs, and make a wooden rear spar to connect the
main ribs. Also put wood spacers/supports between the leading edge ribs at
thier tips. Then cover the whole works with paper. I have the advantage of
living in paper country where I have access to rolls of paper that are 4 ft
wide, but you could duct tape a bunch of newspapers together too.
Making the mock-up this way was faster than doing it all in wood and was
nice and light. I have a picture of mine if you would like for me to email
it to you direct.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
Rv6A 25171
Second wing
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Houle <thoule(at)kneehill.com> |
| Subject: | quickie on alodine |
Can someone give me a good reason why if I alodine the internal parts I
would need to also prime them. Isn't alodine enough corrosion protection?
Tim Houle
RV6 wings in dry old Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclops(at)ecom.net> |
"support(at)vansaircraft.com"
| Subject: | elevator stiffener mistake |
I just did a dumb thing and drilled the upper outboard stiffener on the
left elevator on the wrong side of the line. Instead of 1/8" overlap
it's 1/8" clear of the matching stiffener and is inboard of it's
intended location.
Time for an new elevator skin?
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 #21531
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | elevator stiffener mistake |
Message text written by Ed Holyoke:
>Instead of 1/8" overlap
it's 1/8" clear of the matching stiffener and is inboard of it's
intended location. Time for an new elevator skin?<
I don't see how this is a problem. Having the stiffner 3/4" off from where
the plans say it should be isn't a big deal. As long as the top and bottom
stiffners don't hit you'll be fine. Save the money of a new skin for your
next mistake!
Scott A. Jordan
80331 / N733JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator stiffener mistake |
Ed,
Don't be in too much of a hurry to replace your skin. I went through that with
the horizontal stabilizer and now in retrospect wish I hadn't.
The main reason for the over lap is to protect the skin from puncture when your
bending the trailing edge to the proper taper. It also obviously provides
rigidity to the elevator by acting like a rib. As long as you are careful and
use some card board to protect the skin when your bending you will probably be
ok. Just go with it and keep building ( that's what they keep telling me at
Van's ). :-)
- Jim
RV-8AQ Wings
N89JA ( reserved )
Ed Holyoke on 01/19/2000 04:45:43 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: elevator stiffener mistake
I just did a dumb thing and drilled the upper outboard stiffener on the
left elevator on the wrong side of the line. Instead of 1/8" overlap
it's 1/8" clear of the matching stiffener and is inboard of it's
intended location.
Time for an new elevator skin?
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 #21531
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Wed, 19 Jan 2000 16:41:20.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator stiffener mistake |
01/19/2000 04:45:02 PM
>I just did a dumb thing and drilled the upper outboard stiffener on the
left elevator on the wrong side of the line.
Welcome to the club!
>Time for an new elevator skin?
That is up to you, if it is on the bottom, I would just dimple it and put
in another rivit, and probably nobody would notice it if you did the same
if it is on the top. If on the top you could do the rivit and then fill in
around the head later before painting and it will be invisible.
Best Regards,
Scott Fink
Done my share of dumb things!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel line holes |
Earl,
Too late (of course) I figured that I should have gone with the bulkhead
fittings instead of the grommets. Be as it may I installed the grommets
bit. The grommets were in the same bag as my fuel line fittings. The hole
thru the side wall came out to about one inch. If you haven't made holes
yet then go with the bulkhead fittings.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: fuel line holes
>Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:43:25 -0500
>
>
>What size holes have you guys cut in the fuse for fuel lines from wing
>tanks and what size gromets did you use if any to prevent chafing of
>fuel line?
>
>Earl still trying to plumb the 4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Elevator Skin |
Jeff,
Join the club. I think more people have had this problem than the
successful ones. Most people that have done this have gone ahead and cut
off the flaps and, using a piece of wood as a former, made a small rib.
Then just rivet it in with the web of the rib facing toward the trim tab and
rivet it in with blind rivets. I think it actually looks better this way.
Good Luck!
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: Cracked Elevator Skin
>Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:10:00 -0600
>
>
>Somebody save me!
>
>On the left elevator skin, while bending the little tabs in the skin for
>the trim tab cut out, I managed to develop a small crack in the skin.
>The crack is 1/4 inch back from the forward edge of the tab, and runs
>spanwise, parallel to the trim tab spar, about 3/8 inch long. Since it
>is in a non-structural area, I would think that I could drill stop it
>and forget it. Any advice, or better ideas how to fix it, besides a new
>elevator? Oh, and of course I had the whole forward edge of the thing
>riveted before I figured this out.
>
>And everything was going SOOOO smoothly on the elevators!
>
>Jeff Point
>jpoint(at)execpc.com
>-6 elevators, waiting on wings
>Milwaukee, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman Exhaust Supports |
Do not be offended, but if you had trouble with your hinges too you may have
a vibration problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Monday, January 17, 2000 8:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vetterman Exhaust Supports
>
>Listers,
>
>I already know I am mister break it when it breaks for no one else, but has
>anyone else had trouble with the exhaust support pieces in the otherwise
>excellent Vetterman exhaust pipe kit?
>
>In about 120 hours I have had the adell clamps break four different times
>and one of the flattened steel tubing pieces break once. Is it an
>installation or a materials problem?
>
>My only ideas on solutions at this point are heavier wall steel tubing and
>some kind of two piece plumbing part to replace the aluminum adell clamps.
>
>Now that I think I have replaced all the troublesome cowl hinges on my
>airplane, this seems to be the next part that I am always having to fix
when
>I would much rather be flying. Whee!
>
>On every preflight I am dreading the shaking of the exhaust pipes.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap Engraving |
Steve,
I sent mine Tuesday from south Georgia. You should see them very
soon.
BTW, what do you charge? I will put a check in the mail as soon as I
know the amount.
Thanks,
John Devlin
----- Original Message -----
From: <PANELCUT(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gas Cap Engraving
>
> Tom and Listers
>
> This is the last week for those that have not got there caps in. I will
> start them Monday. Sorry about the delay but would like to give a few
people
> who have told me they sent their caps time to get here. For those who want
to
> send them that haven't now is the time to do so. If they are a little late
> that's OK but prefer you send them NOW. Listed below are the one's I have
> received so far. I also have a few that were redo's from last time that
will
> be done with this batch I hope this hasn't delayed anyone but I just
decided
> to do all when I set them up.
>
> John Warren
> Bill Gibbs
> Robert Acker
> Craig Weiler
> Jim Wendel
> Kevin Belue
> David Plerson
> Tom Ervin
> Dale Wotring
> Pete Bodie
> Mel Jordan
> Gerald Forrest
> Randy Pflanzer
> Steven Cole
> Scott Chambers
> Curtis Shoemaker
>
> Thanks
> Steve Davis
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crate Sizes... |
----- Original Message -----
From: The Von Dane's <vondanes(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 5:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Crate Sizes...
>
> I was trying to find the crate sizes for the wings, fuse, and finish
> kits on Van's new site, and could not... Anyone have the sizes, or
> where I can find them?
I don't have the sizes, but I'll be happy to send you jpeg pictures of the
fuselage and wing crates loaded on a 16 foot trailer if that will help you.
Just let me know if that would help.
Jerry (I Take Pictures Of Everything) Carter
RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing Fiberglass Nose Gear Faring |
On 18 Jan 00, at 20:47, Paul Besing wrote:
>
> I just purchased a nose gear faring from George Orndorff, and was curious
> to know how builders attach this. Does it need to be filled with foam,
> ala the main farings that the rocket guys sell? Are rivets applied to the
> trailing edge?
I attached the fairing (from Van's) via hose clamp at bottom, and
riveted tabs to the top of the fairing. The tabs are held to the nose
gear via another hose clamp. Rather than fabricate an intersection
fairing on the cowling, I fabricated one that is part of the nose gear
fairing. Picture is at http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/finish2.htm
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-360 F1A6 for my RV-8A? |
Bill,
I don't know if the F1A6 is like the IO-360-C1C sump but if it is, there is
a boss on the front of the sump that can be machined so that it will accept
the throttle body (on the -IO) or Carb. effectively moving it to the front
of the sump. On the other hand you may just be able to change the oil sump
and make it an A1A. For the non-fuel injected engines that usually costs
$350 or maybe an even trade for your sump if you find someone in the pusher
crowd (Long EZ, Cozy, or Velocity.) who is looking for your sump. AL
>
>Hi all...
>
>I am interested in buying a Lycoming O-360 F1A6 for my RV-8A.
>
>It came out of a 172RG. I believe it has the carb mounted on the rear of
>the sump.
>
>Can anyone tell me if, in fact, this engine will work in an RV-8A? And what
>may need to be done to it to make it fit? And how much this may cost?
>
>Thanks in advance...
>
>-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
>http://vondane.tripod.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | hemostats, elevator bolts |
For rudder and elevator bolts buy a hemostat with the 45 degree jaws. Bend
the jaws out about 90 degrees, insert a -3 nut and clamp them in a vise.
Pound the tips closed. These will grip nuts and bolts very well and the
angled jaws will get into more spaces than the straight ones. For shim
washers tape the washer to the middle of some masking tape. Use the tape
"handles to position the washer. Pierce the washer with the bolt, pull on
the tape to tear and remove. I have also found the ratcheting closed end
wrenches are great for quickly tightening these bolts.
Kevin -6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : 6A tip-up canopy frame fit. |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Steve, for the strut stop you just bolt a piece of metal to the fuselage
sill plate. located so that the forward section of the strut that is
attached to the tip up will contact just before the top is completely
down. This is adjusted to prevent the strut from pushing the canopy frame
forward when in the closed position. I came across a picture that showed
the stop in some paperwork sent with the kit regarding the fiber glassing
of the forward canopy frame. David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator stiffener mistake |
In a message dated 01/19/2000 3:03:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bicyclops(at)ecom.net writes:
> I just did a dumb thing and drilled the upper outboard stiffener on the
> left elevator on the wrong side of the line. Instead of 1/8" overlap
> it's 1/8" clear of the matching stiffener and is inboard of it's
> intended location.
> Time for an new elevator skin?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> RV-6 #21531
Ed,
If the hole is clear of everything you can just dimple it and put a
rivet in it. Problem solved. There aren't any structural issues to worry
about. You would have to be a real perfectionist to reject the skin for that
one error.
If you are like most of us, you will soon come to the conclusion that
with small errors like this it's best just fix it and move on. You'll still
have a great airplane and even you won't notice that extra rivet a year from
now.
Best Regards,
Dale Wotring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Panel planner/RV-8 |
Listers--I got paranoid after Randy's heads up warning about Panel
Planner and printed my entire panel out full size and taped it onto the
actual aluminum piece from the kit. I used an Epson SC 800 printer and
a Compaq Presario 5304 running windows 98. I used default settings for
everything (no scaling)
The vertical dimension does not account for the bend at the bottom of
the panel. When you take this flange (5/8") and the bend radius you get
the 3/4" discrepancy Randy noted. The paper pattern fits -perfectly-,
but it wraps around the flange to the edge. If you hold the panel up to
a light, the pre-punched holes are exactly where they are indicated on
the pattern.
The only actual instrument I have to hold up to the pattern is the Rocky
Mountain micro-encoder, but it is dead accurate.
The faces of the RC Allen electric gyros print 3.25" tall, the other
31/8" instruments appear to be about 1/16 small.
The 2.25" instruments are all 2.25"
The radios are exactly right according to the manufacturers' web sites,
as is the Rocky Mountain monitor.
I suspect that the template was taken directly from Vans' cutting
CAD/CAM file, without taking the bend into account. I also agree with
the observation that many printers amy not scale accurately.
Thanks Randy for the warning--I think we should all print first, before
ordering
YMMV
James Freeman
RV-8Q fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Custom Canopies |
This must be a change, as mine has no discernable tint, got it about 2
years ago.
Alex Peterson 6A
> The canopy that comes in Van's finish kit is tinted, slightly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: jig available in Phoenix, AZ USA |
Tom, if the jig for the RV6 is still available I am interested. I live near
Blythe, CA, but can make the drive this weekend. Let me know.
George Stanley
RV-6A
Finishing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV3-List: rv3 fuselage fuel tank |
Gary-
I doubt that it's too much pressure from the ram vent. The old tanks were
riveted as mentioned by Jim, and integral with the top forward skin (.040
vs. .025 for welded tanks or wing tanks). The welded tanks, to my
knowledge, never had the inverted "V" baffle for inverted pickup, but rather
went to an open welded tank with/without a flop tube as per post 1984 RV-3
plans.
I have read in past newsletters of the RV-3 that there have been forced
landings due to the improper orientation of the fuselage fuel tank
vent/pressurization tube (newsletter #17, March 1978). It mentioned only
briefly that the vent can be mounted neutral/static, but to develop full
power on some carb/injector installations, that it needs to be mounted in a
ram air orientation per plans.
There's an interesting write up by Van on the gravity feed fuselage fuel
plumbing in the RVator #21 March 1980. It discusses the use of a 1/4"
return line from the carb back to the strainer/tank. It appears to be a
"recirculation" path for fuel from the carb. This was used with an internal
flop tube and so that fuel that continued to be pumped from the engine
driven pump into the carb fed by the flop tube. . .drained back through the
system if too much fuel was introduced to the carb during unusual aerobatic
maneuvers, etc. Without the return line with the flop tube, Van stated that
the carb got too much fuel and during aerobatic attitudes and reduced
performance.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 re-skinning wings, what a shame to have to put wings BACK into the
darn jigs again!!!
Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Severe Weather |
Migosh larry, I know just how you feel. Why just the other day it was so cold
in the garage (maybe 70) I had to open the double-wide door to warm things
up. Suffering in So Fla.
Andy Johnson, Boca Raton
Well I could get some work done on my airplane if the darn weather was
just a little better. Temps have been running around 77-80 degrees. I
really prefer about 72 degrees.
While flying at 6,000 MSL yesterday I was running the vents full tilt and
was still a bit warm. I think I saw a cloud too.snip
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Jones" <gratech(at)a1.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Palm GPS units |
Colours nice guys, but you have to havethe right type of screen. I was
looking at the E100 the other day and the HP Jornada as well. It's high
summer here in OZ and the day was around 31C (100+F) ie. REAL BRIGHT!. Took
the handhelds out side and couldn't read the screen at all. They just
turned black!.
Took the mono Compaq Aero (?) and the Casio E15 (16 grey scales)outside and
they didn't change a bit...... Seems that the latest techno isn't so
great - except where you pay heaps for it like in the Garmin GNS430 etc.
Graham Jones
(SUNNY!) Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Yotz <greg(at)controlvision.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 2:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Palm GPS units
>
> To bad the Fuel Manager didn't have sensors for real updates.
> Has anybody seen a Palm Pilot at night inside the cockpit?
> I like the looks of the Casio E-100 PDA. It looks good and is color.
>
> I still like the color GPS Moving map at <http://www.controlvision.com>
>
> Greg
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 10:11 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Palm GPS units
>
>
> >
> >A while back there was a discussion on the Palm units.
> >
> >I found this website with more information.
> >
> >FYI only. I am not advertising for them, but they are getting my
attention.
> >
> >http://www.aspenleaf.com/palm/
> >--
> >Shelby Smith
> >shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
> >RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
> >N95EB - reserved
> >
> >----------
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
If you go with bulkhead fittings, what kind of flexible line must you use
between the wing tank and the bulkhead fitting?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A Panel, wiring and fuel hookups
-----Original Message-----Too late (of course) I figured
that I should have gone with the bulkhead
fittings instead of the grommets. Be as it may I installed
the grommets
bit. The grommets were in the same bag as my fuel line
fittings. The hole
thru the side wall came out to about one inch. If you
haven't made holes
yet then go with the bulkhead fittings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Post-1st Flight Inspection |
I thought maybe someone could benefit for this. After my first flight, I
have found these items that need fixing.
1. The top skin (glaresheild) was painted flat black and then riveted. The
rivet heads have a bad reflection on the windshield. I'll paint these
rivets with flat black paint. This would have been easier before I put in
the windshield.
2. Pipe threads are hard to seal. I mounted my fuel flow transducer on the
firewall. A straight fitting was used on the inlet and a 90 elbow on the
exit. In order to get the elbow pointed forward, it was not fully tight.
Thread sealant was used on all pipe threads. Green stains were on the
transducer after the first flight, indicating a fuel leak. Last night I
removed the transducer & tighten the fitting. Fully tight, it was pointed
aft onto the firewall. I removed the fitting and retightened several times.
Each time the fitting turned more toward the front. With some serious
tightening, the fitting is facing forward and no leaks with the system
pressurized.
Also the pipe fitting on the oil pressure tranducer was leaking. This
fitting was very tight. I removed it and tightened it again. Next run will
determine if it is leakproof.
3. The brake fluid reservoir was filled to the top while the -6 was sitting
3-point. After the flight, brake fluid was all over the firewall under the
reservoir and down the belly. Guess the reservoir should only be half full.
4. The carb temp sensor for the RMI uMonitor has a green stain around it.
I'll remove it tonight and put some thread sealant on the threads.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 N136RC 1.3 hrs
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel planner/RV-8 |
In a message dated 1/19/00 11:13:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cd005677(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< The vertical dimension does not account for the bend at the bottom of
the panel. >>
I came across this "oversize" problem with the RV-8 panel diagram some time
ago. I just ended up drawing a line across the bottom to account for the
flange and designed away. I brought this up to the panel planner people
nearly a year ago. I guess they haven't yet done anything about it.
-Don
RV-8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Post-1st Flight Inspection |
--- Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
> 3. The brake fluid reservoir was filled to the top
> while the -6 was sitting
> 3-point. After the flight, brake fluid was all over
> the firewall under the
> reservoir and down the belly. Guess the reservoir
> should only be half full.
>
>
> Rick Caldwell
> RV-6 N136RC 1.3 hrs
> Melbourne, FL
>
Rick:
After 490 flying hours, I can say that I fill the
reservoir between 1/2 and 3/4 for the same reason.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Post-1st Flight Inspection |
>
>I thought maybe someone could benefit for this. After my first flight, I
>have found these items that need fixing.
On the topic of leaks, here's what I've had so far in 17.5 hours:
1. Also had brake fluid on the firewall and streaming back on the belly. I
had overfilled it as well. It's now about 2/3 full, but still urped up some
juice after a momentary spell of ballistic flight. (I dig that weightless
feeling). I would think a fully inverted capable airplane would have quite
a mess here after spending more substantial periods of time at negative G.
2. The intake tube rubber boot on cylinder #1 wasn't sealing and yesterday
I noticed some blue fuel stains on the inside of the cowling. I found the
Breeze clamps needed some tightening. We'll see how it does today. I need to
share in Larry's icky flying weather here in the Land of Enchantment...temps
around 80 are forecast down south. :)
3. I have one seeping rivet in the bottom of the left tank at a stiffener.
Bummer. Out comes the Proseal when I'm done flying for the week. At least
it isn't painted yet.
4. Air leaks around the back of the canopy skirt. I've been adding small
strips of adhesive backed felt and it's getting better. Most of it comes in
through the square hole cut in the skirt to fit over the slider rail.
5. I had brake fluid leaks at the el cheapo brass swamp cooler type fittings
at the master cylinders. These would not seal worth a darn even after
replacing the inserts and compression nuts. I replaced the fittings with
stainless Swagelok fittings. NO leaks and a MUCH better choice for such a
critical fitting.
That's about it. The belly is staying pretty clean so at least the engine
isn't splooging out large amounts of oil and water vapor. The breather was
repositioned over one of the exhaust pipes and this seems to be helping to
burn off the stuff it does send overboard.
All in all, life is good, it flies great and I'm having a ball!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
where to fly to today? Hmm...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel line holes |
You could go either way really. I went with Earl's steel braided hose.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 6:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: fuel line holes
>
> If you go with bulkhead fittings, what kind of flexible line must you use
> between the wing tank and the bulkhead fitting?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A Panel, wiring and fuel hookups
>
> -----Original Message-----Too late (of course) I figured
> that I should have gone with the bulkhead
> fittings instead of the grommets. Be as it may I
installed
> the grommets
> bit. The grommets were in the same bag as my fuel line
> fittings. The hole
> thru the side wall came out to about one inch. If you
> haven't made holes
> yet then go with the bulkhead fittings.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel planner/RV-8 |
> The vertical dimension does not account for the bend at the bottom of
> the panel. When you take this flange (5/8") and the bend radius you get
> the 3/4" discrepancy Randy noted. The paper pattern fits -perfectly-,
> but it wraps around the flange to the edge. If you hold the panel up to
> a light, the pre-punched holes are exactly where they are indicated on
> the pattern.
>
> The only actual instrument I have to hold up to the pattern is the Rocky
> Mountain micro-encoder, but it is dead accurate.
>
> The faces of the RC Allen electric gyros print 3.25" tall, the other
> 31/8" instruments appear to be about 1/16 small.
>
> The 2.25" instruments are all 2.25"
>
> The radios are exactly right according to the manufacturers' web sites,
> as is the Rocky Mountain monitor.
>
> I suspect that the template was taken directly from Vans' cutting
> CAD/CAM file, without taking the bend into account. I also agree with
> the observation that many printers amy not scale accurately.
>
> Thanks Randy for the warning--I think we should all print first, before
> ordering
James,
Great post, and good find on the flange issue. This of course makes sense
when you think about where they got the panel drawing... from Van's part
drawing. Now you've got me curious... I will go back and print out a full
size print again and see how it compares with the unbent flange allowed for.
The instrument scaling errors I noted were probably the worst on the
Electronics International gauges. They use a 2.25" hole so you could just
check the dimension without the actual instrument if you like. BTW, if you
plan on using the EI gauges they have a square case that is exactly 2.5".
You can then use 2.5" centers for your holes which of course yields zero
clearance between them. This is a good thing because then then provide
support for each other. In fact I may link a couple of zip ties and wrap the
bundle of cases to elminate any potential vibration between them.
My panel is now fully cut so the Panel Planner issue is a bit moot for me.
For others such as yourself another thing you need to watch for is the
overlap of the rear panel (F-803 something) onto the back of the main panel.
You will find that this get's in the way. I can't think of a way to allow
for this precisely when working in Panel Planner, but once you have a full
size drawing you could easily draw a line inboard the proper distance (I
think it's just over an inch - at work right now) to make sure all of your
items clear it. Of course you're most concerned about the cases on the back
of the panel which you may not have yet.
I will keep my web site updated with my panel progress. It now shows the
main cutouts and tonight I may finish the avionics rack portion and shoot a
picture.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel, canopy skirt, etc.
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
I am wondering how many RV3 builders are content to fly with the older
unmodified wings?
While generally not of competition form, it seems I can comfortably/smoothly
perform loops, rolls and most variations thereof without exceeding 160 MPH
or the normal category G limits much less the utility category limits.
The RV3 I built may have been one of the last ones shipped before the
production hold. It's a fairly light, bare bones copy with a 160 lb pilot.
I think I remember hearing a statement made that no RV3's have had
catastrophic wing problems while being flown by their builder?
Gray
(like the color of my unpainted RV3)
________________________________________________________________________________
I would use either solid line with a vibration loop or the aeroquip flex that
Vans has. I like the bulkhead method because it adds a solid tie point. The flex
option allows the bent fittings ( 45 & 90 degree) to be used. A little more
expensive but inthe large picture of building expenses- a drop in the bucket...
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com on 01/20/2000 08:28:40 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: fuel line holes
If you go with bulkhead fittings, what kind of flexible line must you use
between the wing tank and the bulkhead fitting?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A Panel, wiring and fuel hookups
-----Original Message-----Too late (of course) I figured
that I should have gone with the bulkhead
fittings instead of the grommets. Be as it may I installed
the grommets
bit. The grommets were in the same bag as my fuel line
fittings. The hole
thru the side wall came out to about one inch. If you
haven't made holes
yet then go with the bulkhead fittings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 40 Amp Wire Size |
>
>I have a stretch of wire going from my alternator breaker to my buss. It
>will only be about 2 inches. I know the whole wire size chart thing, but it
>doesn't really state what size wire will handle that kind of current. Could
>I do it with 12 gauge?
A bit light for 40A . . . how about a strip of brass or copper
used to extend your bus bar to the alternator breaker . . . better
yet, how about getting the fat breaker off the panel entirely
and feed alternator output into the system via the hot side of
the starter contactor.
Thats how we're going to do it on the next model change to the
Bonanza . . .
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan&Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
I recently had a conversation with Tom at Vans about this subject. I was
bummed about the cost of the new wing since I only have a couple of hundred
dollars into my kit. I was trying in vain to get him to tell me I could buy
just parts of the new wing kit (spar strips) and substitute them for the old
ones in my kit. My kit is very old #68....so I even have the thinner flat
bar for the spar strips. After mentioning that I felt compelled to buy the
new wing because I didn't want to die in this thing, he straightened me out.
In his opinion there is nothing at all wrong with even the oldest wing
design. As long as the pilot keeps within the G limits. As I am a very
conservative pilot and have no intention of ever doing any aerobatics, it
was agreed that the original wing design is more than sufficient. There are
a whole lot of these things flying presently with no problems at all. The
few that have come down have been reputed to be doing some pretty serious
maneuvers. While I am planning on doing the simple modifications per the
later plans, I am convinced that buying the new wing is not necessary. The
only really big advantage in my view is in resale value. I probably wont
ever sell it any way.
Evan.....skinning first wing
----- Original Message -----
From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 8:36 AM
Subject: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> I am wondering how many RV3 builders are content to fly with the older
> unmodified wings?
> While generally not of competition form, it seems I can
comfortably/smoothly
> perform loops, rolls and most variations thereof without exceeding 160 MPH
> or the normal category G limits much less the utility category limits.
> The RV3 I built may have been one of the last ones shipped before the
> production hold. It's a fairly light, bare bones copy with a 160 lb
pilot.
> I think I remember hearing a statement made that no RV3's have had
> catastrophic wing problems while being flown by their builder?
>
> Gray
> (like the color of my unpainted RV3)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
The 8 panel is geting a bit crowded. What is the min. separation
between instr. that anyone has used successfully on the stock panel
and/or any other thicker upgrades?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
It seems to me that the bulkhead fitting also lets you be a little less
fussy about where the fuel line exits the fuselage. As designed, the fuel
line has to come out and be precisely lined up with the fuel outlet on the
wing tank. By using a bulkhead fitting, you have more freedom about where
you locate the fitting because you are going to run a flexible line or a
solid line with a loop to the wing.
BTW, how much space is there between the wing and the side of the fuselage.
I once had my wings on when I drilled the landing gear mounts, but I did not
make a note of the width of that space.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont RV-6A
-----Original Message-----I would use either solid line with
a vibration loop or the aeroquip flex that
Vans has. I like the bulkhead method because it adds a solid
tie point. The flex
option allows the bent fittings ( 45 & 90 degree) to be
used. A little more
expensive but inthe large picture of building expenses- a
drop in the bucket...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Powersport rotary engine |
Fellow Listers:
Got a call today from Ray Richardson, president of Powersport Aviation. Ray
has a position open at their facility in Osceola, WI to finish their RV-6A
with their new rotary engine. They also have a Glastar kit which they would
like to complete also. This could be a good thing for someone looking for a
career change involving sport aviation. Also he would consider someone
locally to work on these projects on a part-time hourly basis. Osceola is
located 40 miles NE of St. Paul, MN.
If you know of anyone interested, Ray's number is 715-294-2557.
Thanks
Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob U." <r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
Wouldn't it be interesting to know if those that broke wings in the
past would not break this NEW wing as well?
This is no reflection on this new wing what-so-ever, but there will be
those that find themselves outside the limits..... of even of
this new wing.
Bob Urban
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Evan&Megan Johnson wrote:
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Evan&Megan Johnson"
>
> I recently had a conversation with Tom at Vans about this subject. I was
> bummed about the cost of the new wing since I only have a couple of hundred
> dollars into my kit. I was trying in vain to get him to tell me I could buy
> just parts of the new wing kit (spar strips) and substitute them for the old
> ones in my kit. My kit is very old #68....so I even have the thinner flat
> bar for the spar strips. After mentioning that I felt compelled to buy the
> new wing because I didn't want to die in this thing, he straightened me out.
> In his opinion there is nothing at all wrong with even the oldest wing
> design. As long as the pilot keeps within the G limits. As I am a very
> conservative pilot and have no intention of ever doing any aerobatics, it
> was agreed that the original wing design is more than sufficient. There are
> a whole lot of these things flying presently with no problems at all. The
> few that have come down have been reputed to be doing some pretty serious
> maneuvers. While I am planning on doing the simple modifications per the
> later plans, I am convinced that buying the new wing is not necessary. The
> only really big advantage in my view is in resale value. I probably wont
> ever sell it any way.
> Evan.....skinning first wing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
> To: RV3-List Digest Server
> Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 8:36 AM
> Subject: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> >
> > I am wondering how many RV3 builders are content to fly with the older
> > unmodified wings?
> > While generally not of competition form, it seems I can
> comfortably/smoothly
> > perform loops, rolls and most variations thereof without exceeding 160 MPH
> > or the normal category G limits much less the utility category limits.
> > The RV3 I built may have been one of the last ones shipped before the
> > production hold. It's a fairly light, bare bones copy with a 160 lb
> pilot.
> > I think I remember hearing a statement made that no RV3's have had
> > catastrophic wing problems while being flown by their builder?
> >
> > Gray
> > (like the color of my unpainted RV3)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator stiffener mistake |
Check with Van's to be certain but my guess is they will tell you to forget
it and move on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 40 Amp Wire Size |
Bob,
Help me here. I read what you said several times but for some incredulous
reason I can't comprehend it. Could you please forgive my density and
explain fully. And how will this effect/tie into an external voltage
regulator??
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 40 Amp Wire Size
>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:36:13 -0600
>
>
>
> >
> >I have a stretch of wire going from my alternator breaker to my buss. It
> >will only be about 2 inches. I know the whole wire size chart thing, but
>it
> >doesn't really state what size wire will handle that kind of current.
>Could
> >I do it with 12 gauge?
>
> A bit light for 40A . . . how about a strip of brass or copper
> used to extend your bus bar to the alternator breaker . . . better
> yet, how about getting the fat breaker off the panel entirely
> and feed alternator output into the system via the hot side of
> the starter contactor.
>
> Thats how we're going to do it on the next model change to the
> Bonanza . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Debi VonDane" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powersport rotary engine |
Here is the URL of their web site: http://www.powersportaviation.com/
Bill Von Dane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), waiting for wing kit
http://vondane.tripod.com
Fellow Listers:
Got a call today from Ray Richardson, president of Powersport
Aviation. Ray
has a position open at their facility in Osceola, WI to finish their
RV-6A
with their new rotary engine. They also have a Glastar kit which they
would
like to complete also. This could be a good thing for someone looking
for a
career change involving sport aviation. Also he would consider
someone
locally to work on these projects on a part-time hourly basis.
Osceola is
located 40 miles NE of St. Paul, MN.
If you know of anyone interested, Ray's number is 715-294-2557.
Thanks
Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Post-1st Flight Inspection |
Brian,
Any tips, in hindsight, on tank sealing? I'm currently wrestling with
proseal myself.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
> Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 10:00 AM
> 3. I have one seeping rivet in the bottom of the left tank at a
> stiffener.
> Bummer. Out comes the Proseal when I'm done flying for the week.
> At least
> it isn't painted yet.
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> where to fly to today? Hmm...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
With all the best of intentions NOT to pull the G's on the rv-3 to place your
butt in harms way what about a unintentional or otherwise sloppy manuver exit
where you place your aircraft in a position where a breakup might occur.......I
would probably go with the wing mod AND fly safe with the safety margin the
newer wing offers. You could bang out a set of wings while you fly your 3 now
and enjoy both worlds of flying & building.....just a thought....
r.r.urban(at)worldnet.att.net on 01/20/2000 01:03:42 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison
Wouldn't it be interesting to know if those that broke wings in the
past would not break this NEW wing as well?
This is no reflection on this new wing what-so-ever, but there will be
those that find themselves outside the limits..... of even of
this new wing.
Bob Urban
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Evan&Megan Johnson wrote:
>
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Evan&Megan Johnson"
>
> I recently had a conversation with Tom at Vans about this subject. I was
> bummed about the cost of the new wing since I only have a couple of hundred
> dollars into my kit. I was trying in vain to get him to tell me I could buy
> just parts of the new wing kit (spar strips) and substitute them for the old
> ones in my kit. My kit is very old #68....so I even have the thinner flat
> bar for the spar strips. After mentioning that I felt compelled to buy the
> new wing because I didn't want to die in this thing, he straightened me out.
> In his opinion there is nothing at all wrong with even the oldest wing
> design. As long as the pilot keeps within the G limits. As I am a very
> conservative pilot and have no intention of ever doing any aerobatics, it
> was agreed that the original wing design is more than sufficient. There are
> a whole lot of these things flying presently with no problems at all. The
> few that have come down have been reputed to be doing some pretty serious
> maneuvers. While I am planning on doing the simple modifications per the
> later plans, I am convinced that buying the new wing is not necessary. The
> only really big advantage in my view is in resale value. I probably wont
> ever sell it any way.
> Evan.....skinning first wing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
> To: RV3-List Digest Server
> Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 8:36 AM
> Subject: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> >
> > I am wondering how many RV3 builders are content to fly with the older
> > unmodified wings?
> > While generally not of competition form, it seems I can
> comfortably/smoothly
> > perform loops, rolls and most variations thereof without exceeding 160 MPH
> > or the normal category G limits much less the utility category limits.
> > The RV3 I built may have been one of the last ones shipped before the
> > production hold. It's a fairly light, bare bones copy with a 160 lb
> pilot.
> > I think I remember hearing a statement made that no RV3's have had
> > catastrophic wing problems while being flown by their builder?
> >
> > Gray
> > (like the color of my unpainted RV3)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
> The 8 panel is geting a bit crowded. What is the min. separation
> between instr. that anyone has used successfully on the stock panel
> and/or any other thicker upgrades?
I just cut my holes and mounted my instruements. I used 2.5" on the engine
instruments (Electronics International) which just happens to be the exact
size of the case resulting in a zero clearance situation. Then on my larger
holes I used about a 3.25" center to center spacing after checking that the
cases would clear.
You can see the cuts at http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgPanel.htm. I've
since mounted all my instruments and am working on my avionics rack. I'll
try to get some updated pics up by this weekend.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | How I Designed My Panel... |
Hi all,
With all this panel talk on the list I thought I would offer my experience with
creating the panel for my RV-8.
I started with Panel Planner and then decided that Panel Planner really frustrated
me. It does not follow Windows conventions and appears to me to be very sloppy.
I see its use for nothing more than looking at pretty instruments on a rough
layout of your panel. In order to design a real panel I believe you need
something more precise.
I purchased a CAD program called DesignCAD. It was cheep for its abilities. I think
I paid $120 for it at CompUSA. It can handle all AutoCAD files (dxf, dwg)
with ease and works logically like most people would like a CAD package to work.
I started by drawing precise templates of the instruments like the altimeter
with its knob cutout etc. I also made a center point mark (cross) at the center
of each instrument hole.
Rather than importing or drawing an exact replica of the RV-8 panel I measured
the width of the panel and height of the panel at its center. I then drew a horizontal
line in the CAD program representing the bottom of the panel and a center
line extending vertical from the midpoint of the horizontal line. I used
these lines to place my instruments; starting at the center of the panel and working
out word towards the sides.
After completing the panel layout in DesignCAD I printed the panel on my laser
printer. Note that most laser printers have the same resolution for both horizontal
and vertical planes. It is important that you use a printer with this type
of resolution setting. When printing from DesignCAD you have several options.
I choose to print the drawing at full scale (1.0) and also choose to tile the
pages since my laser printer can only print 8.5" x 11" sized pages. I also
choose to have DesignCAD print tick marks in the corners of the pages. This resulted
in six pages with part of my panel on each page.
Rather than use regular paper to print the panel I used transparency film. Once
printed I used Scotch tape to tape all the pages together by aligning the tick
marks in the corners of all the pages. Once I had the pages taped together I
had a full scale drawing of my panel.
Now that the design work was completed and the panel was printed at full size I
made some reference lines on the aluminum panel. I found the exact center of
the panel vertically and drew a line on it with a Sharpe. I also drew a horizontal
line across the bottom just above the bend making sure that it was perpendicular
to the vertical center line. I then placed my full scale printout on top
of the panel by lining up the vertical and horizontal lines on both the panel
and printout. Note that the printout was on transparency film so it is very
easy to line things up. I then taped the panel in place and used a punch and
hammer to mark the center of each instrument hole.
Using the punch marks on the aluminum panel I drilled out the instrument holes
as well as the other cutouts for the avionics and such.
I found this method very easy and very precise. If anyone has questions please
feel free to ask. I should have pictures of the panel and the process in a few
days and can post them if anyone is interested. I will also post my panel template
and instrument templates to whoever would like them.
Jeff Hawkins
Atlanta, Georgia
RV-8 Fuselage Stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Field <jfield(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MA-4SPA Carb for sale |
I have a new MA-4SPA carb for sale. The price is $1,000. Reply off the list
to
jfield(at)pressenter.com
John Field
W12373 848th Ave.
River Falls, WI 54022
715-425-7064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOT8127(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
Hi RVers, I got two-cents worth. Remember this: "thou holdest the
mighty wing-seperator, in thy HAND!
While talking to my F-16E buddy (and local pilot) on this subject. He
reminded me that ANY wing can fail. My three has the "modified" wing. I
have put 6.5 G's on it during LEVEL flight. Avoid the rolling AND pulling
manuvers. And, leave yourself an "OUT" if things get ugly...........:
)
off the soap-box now,
Gary (aka AJ)
INDY RVs flyout-director
(you only need one seat)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel line holes |
several inches where the fuel line exits.
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> It seems to me that the bulkhead fitting also lets you be a little less
> fussy about where the fuel line exits the fuselage. As designed, the fuel
> line has to come out and be precisely lined up with the fuel outlet on the
> wing tank. By using a bulkhead fitting, you have more freedom about where
> you locate the fitting because you are going to run a flexible line or a
> solid line with a loop to the wing.
>
> BTW, how much space is there between the wing and the side of the fuselage.
> I once had my wings on when I drilled the landing gear mounts, but I did not
> make a note of the width of that space.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont RV-6A
>
> -----Original Message-----I would use either solid line with
> a vibration loop or the aeroquip flex that
> Vans has. I like the bulkhead method because it adds a solid
> tie point. The flex
> option allows the bent fittings ( 45 & 90 degree) to be
> used. A little more
> expensive but inthe large picture of building expenses- a
> drop in the bucket...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
Long term listers will recall a conversation here regarding the "wing
removal lever." Comments about being able to complete gentle aerobatics in
your unmodified RV-3 are no different than doing acro in your family C-172.
Will it do it? Absolutely. Is it smart? Absolutely not! What happens when
you are pulling 3 'G's coming around that loop and you see a Canada goose up
close and personal? I put 5 "Gs" on the meter in the panther and I was
straight and level when it happened.
The G vs stick force gradient for an RV is pretty flat. much flatter than
your fathers 172 and tons flatter than your mothers Cherokee. Hence the
chance of seeing a big number on the meter due to an inadvertant pull on the
"wing removal lever" is much greater. Throw in the fact that you are
operating near the limit already and we could have another article about
homemade airplanes being deadly.
I don't care how gray your hair is, or how much Viagra you use, in an RV
EVERYONE is 21 yrs old and a fighter pilot!!!
Do the right thing, modify the wing.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire for phones |
>
>Another question about headphone wiring. On one of Bob Nuckolls' drawings,
>he shows the headphone jack wired w/ 2 conductor shielded wire with the
>wires soldered to the tip and ring terminals and the shield bonded to the
>ring conductor only at the audio panel termination. (i.e.. the shield is not
>connected at the jack end)
Look again. The shield is used to carry the signal ground
from jack to the radio or intercom location.
I bought a set of jacks that were already
>prewired and the phone jack was wired with a single conductor shielded wire
>with the shield soldered to the ring terminal.
"Ring" terminal? are we talking mono or stereo headset?
"Two conductor" jacks for microphones have tip, ring and
sleeve or barrel terminals. The sleeve terminal is always
signal ground. Mono headsets have only a tip terminal on
their plug and would get the center conductor of a shielded
feedline. The shield would go to the sleeve. If you have
stereo headsets, the shield still goes to sleeve and a
second wire under the shield would pick up the ring terminal.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Post-1st Flight Inspection |
>
>Brian,
>
>Any tips, in hindsight, on tank sealing? I'm currently wrestling with
>proseal myself.
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 tanks
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
Larry,
Yeah, USE LOTS OF IT! Ok, maybe it's not quite that simple, but just don't
be afraid to use it. For some reason, the only leaking rivets I have had
(this is the second one) have been on the stiffeners. Make a complete
fillet of sealant around the entire flange of each stiffener as well as over
every shop head. Build up fillets along every rib to skin junction and be
extra thorough around the end ribs and nose reinforcement plates. No body
is going to see your sealant work on the inside of the tank, so use the goop
freely. I bought two full kits of sealant, and didn't even use up the first
can. I think now that a full can should be used on the -8 tanks. You do
have to be cautious on the rear baffle, as too much sealant will just make a
mess of things and can make getting the tank back on the wing rather
difficult. Make the sealant a very uniform thickness along the baffle
flanges and after it's on, goop the corners real good. You only need a small
patch of sealant under the Z brackets and only at each rivet hole, since
these rivets are sealed anyway. Go with a thin film of sealant only, or it
will move the brackets off the baffle face just enough to make the tank not
sit down on the spar correctly. A little dab will do ya here.
Hang in there. You'll do fine.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
21 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
>
> I put 5 "Gs" on the meter in the panther and I was
>straight and level when it happened.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
Doug,
5G in straight and level flight?? Isnt that a sort of contradiction in
terms?? Can we assume you mean straight and level in strong turbulence?? If
so that must have been quite a bump. The first time that happens to me with
my wife in the back seat will probably be the last time my wife is ever in
the back seat!!
Mike Wills
RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
> Any of you folks up around Hillsboro know if Scott is fed up and has left
> the list or is he just on vacation or something?
The former. As he indicated in one of his last messages, he has left the
list for now, and frankly, I can understand why. That long thread on
"profit" was the way out of bounds and I think put him over the line.
In principle this list is supposed to be for the exchange of RV-related
information for the purpose of building or operating RVs. It is that, but it
also becomes a forum for personal opinions on lots of things not necessarily
RV-related, and frequently degrades from there. Frankly, some people are
qualified to render judgments on various technical matters and others are
not. On the list we have no way of knowing what each other's credentials are
so everyone is an expert. There is a tendency for unqualified individuals to
put forth information as fact that is simply bad information. I believe
that, and all of the childish bickering, put him over the top. I live in the
Portland area and talk with Scott fairly frequently (he's a member of our
builder's group, the Home Wing VAF, and attends the local EAA breakfasts). I
know for a fact both of these things bother him significantly.
I believe that if one is to successfully tolerate this list one needs to
have fairly thick skin, and also be willing to wade through the rhetoric to
get to the factual information. I must admit, I've been tempted to leave the
list myself. But then some really useful information gets exchanged and I
stay up with it. Don't get me wrong, this list has been a huge resource for
me through my 2+ years of building, but I too get very disappointed in the
level of maturity and responsibility that sometimes gets displayed here.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel line holes |
> BTW, how much space is there between the wing and the side of the
fuselage.
> I once had my wings on when I drilled the landing gear mounts, but I did
not
> make a note of the width of that space.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont RV-6A
About 3" from the fuse skin to the tank rib fore, around 2.5" aft end by
spar. Subtract around .5" for tank rib flange overhang.
Alex Peterson
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Post-1st Flight Inspection |
> 2. Pipe threads are hard to seal. I mounted my fuel flow transducer on
the
> firewall. A straight fitting was used on the inlet and a 90 elbow on the
> exit. In order to get the elbow pointed forward, it was not fully tight.
> Thread sealant was used on all pipe threads. Green stains were on the
> transducer after the first flight, indicating a fuel leak. Last night I
> removed the transducer & tighten the fitting. Fully tight, it was pointed
> aft onto the firewall. I removed the fitting and retightened several
times.
> Each time the fitting turned more toward the front. With some serious
> tightening, the fitting is facing forward and no leaks with the system
> pressurized.
Rick, what sort of thread sealant did you use? Also, I understand that
there have been problems with cracks in the fuel transducer, so be very
careful. High pressure fuel leaking from the firewall could be the big
bummer. If you were progressively getting more rotation with each
tightening, something was yielding.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire for phones |
Bob
I just finished wiring my avionics stack. I'm using the PS Engineering
PMA6000M audio selector panel with intercom and marker beacon. Their
instruction's say to use two conductor shielded wire for the headphone jacks
and three conductor shielded wire for the mic jacks. "All mic and headphone
jacks must have insulating washer's, the shield must only be connected to the
ground return wire only at the intercom connector." The shield is floating
at the jack's.
What would have happened if I had used the sleeve to ground the shield?
Cash Copeland
RV6 Oakland, Ca
In a message dated 1/21/00 12:02:56 AM GMT Standard Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
<<
"Ring" terminal? are we talking mono or stereo headset?
"Two conductor" jacks for microphones have tip, ring and
sleeve or barrel terminals. The sleeve terminal is always
signal ground. Mono headsets have only a tip terminal on
their plug and would get the center conductor of a shielded
feedline. The shield would go to the sleeve. If you have
stereo headsets, the shield still goes to sleeve and a
second wire under the shield would pick up the ring terminal.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | common RV frequency, builders services directory |
After reading about some upcoming SW trips it got me thinking about the
idea of a common RV frequency, like 122.75 except different. It seems to
me that the radio has 720 available, most airports use but a dozen. I know
technically it's not legal, but hey, there's strength in numbers, right?
Brian and I use 136.00 when flying as a flight since we're still quite the
novices. Maybe some combination of the RV digits 3,4,6,8,9 could be found.
At 10,000' I've spoken with pilots clear across the state of Oregon. If
you've flown your unpainted plane yet you'll realize that another unpainted
RV could be a few thousand feet away and out of sight.
E-mail me off line if you'd like an updated copy of the RV Builders
Services Directory. We have lodging in TX, AZ, CA, UT plus many other
states and provinces(23 pages now). Maybe some NM builders (none so far)
could enlist and get the chance to meet other builders/flyers.
Kevin Lane N3773(at)mciworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
If anyone out there has done any speed testing
with and without a spinner I'd like to know if
you were able to document any differences in
speeds. Please contact me off-list.
Thanks
Tom
RV3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
Tom: The answer to your spinner question can be found on a tape by Mike
Arnold when he researched and developed the AR-5 that holds the worlds record
for its weight class, over 200 and something with a RotaX engine....The tape
is called "Why it goes so fast" and can be had from The Arnold Co., 5960 S.
Land Park Dr. 361,,Sacramento, CA, 95822....Cost ???....What he found out was
the spinner didn't make one bit of difference on anything....engine temp,
etc....He finally left it on because it made it look better....Regards, Jim
Brown, NJ, 2-RV-3s and an RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks Jim
Petty much what I've been told also. Mike designed
a F1 racer for a friend of mine and I've spoken with
a number of times. He'd be the one to know.
Happy FLying
Tom
A20driver(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Tom: The answer to your spinner question can be found on a tape by Mike
> Arnold when he researched and developed the AR-5 that holds the worlds record
> for its weight class, over 200 and something with a RotaX engine....The tape
> is called "Why it goes so fast" and can be had from The Arnold Co., 5960 S.
> Land Park Dr. 361,,Sacramento, CA, 95822....Cost ???....What he found out was
> the spinner didn't make one bit of difference on anything....engine temp,
> etc....He finally left it on because it made it look better....Regards, Jim
> Brown, NJ, 2-RV-3s and an RV-4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How I Designed My Panel... |
In a message dated 1/20/00 1:08:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, jah(at)abraxis.com
writes:
<< After completing the panel layout in DesignCAD I printed the panel on my
laser printer. Note that most laser printers have the same resolution for
both horizontal and vertical planes. It is important that you use a printer
with this type of resolution setting. When printing from DesignCAD you have
several options. I choose to print the drawing at full scale (1.0) and also
choose to tile the pages since my laser printer can only print 8.5" x 11"
sized pages. >>
Would you like to buy a Houston Instruments DMP-51 Engineering 'D' size pen
plotter with serial cable so you can print larger formats. It's yours for
$250 plus shipping. I now have an HP Draftmaster and no longer need the
Houston Instruments.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: common RV frequency, builders services directory |
Fantastic idea...I don't think a special combination is necessary, just an
arbitrary frequency that is not commonly used.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "n3773" <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 8:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: common RV frequency, builders services directory
>
> After reading about some upcoming SW trips it got me thinking about the
> idea of a common RV frequency, like 122.75 except different. It seems to
> me that the radio has 720 available, most airports use but a dozen. I
know
> technically it's not legal, but hey, there's strength in numbers, right?
> Brian and I use 136.00 when flying as a flight since we're still quite the
> novices. Maybe some combination of the RV digits 3,4,6,8,9 could be
found.
> At 10,000' I've spoken with pilots clear across the state of Oregon. If
> you've flown your unpainted plane yet you'll realize that another
unpainted
> RV could be a few thousand feet away and out of sight.
> E-mail me off line if you'd like an updated copy of the RV
Builders
> Services Directory. We have lodging in TX, AZ, CA, UT plus many other
> states and provinces(23 pages now). Maybe some NM builders (none so far)
> could enlist and get the chance to meet other builders/flyers.
> Kevin Lane N3773(at)mciworld.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Condition Insp Checklist for RV-6A |
>
>Time has come for my first annual condition inspection. If anyone has
>an inspection checklist for -6A with fixed pitch prop, I would
>appreciate your sending it via email DIRECT. I am currently refining a
>checklist intended for a -6 with cs prop.
>
>On the first day of inspection we found that the alternater housing
>(Vans) and the alternator arm (ours) have been in contact with the lower
>cowl and almost worn their way through...didn't notice it at last oil
>change but it must have been there. Not the usual smiley face, just
>craters!
>
>Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
>First annual at 152.7 hrs and 211 landings
Will,
Maybe the checklist below will be of some value or at least a place to
start.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
*************************
INSPECTION REPORT Type of Inspection __________________
OWNER: _________________________
DATE: _________
MAKE: _________
HOURS: _________
"N" #: _________
SER. #: _________
DESCRIPTION
A. PROPELLER GROUP
1.______ Inspect spinner and back plate
2.______ Inspect blades for nicks and cracks
3.______ Check for grease and oil leaks
4.______ Lubricate propeller per lubrication chart
5.______ Check spinner mounting brackets
6.______ Check propeller mounting bolts and safety
7.______ Inspect hub parts for cracks and corrosion
B. ENGINE GROUP CAUTION: ground mags before working on engine
1.______ Remove engine cowl
2.______ Clean and check cowling for cracks, distortion and loose or missing
fasteners
3.______ Drain oil sump
4.______ Clean suction oil strainer at oil change
5.______ Clean pressure oil strainer or change full flow oil filter element
6.______ Check oil temp. sender for leaks and security
7.______ Check oil lines and fittings for leaks, chafing, security, dents
and cracks
8.______ Clean and check oil radiator cooling fins
9.______ Fill engine with oil per lubrication chart
10._____ Clean engine
11._____ Check condition of spark plugs, adjust gap to:______ clean, test,
rotate
12._____ Check ignition harness and insulators
13._____ Check magneto points for proper clearance maintain at .018 +- .006
14._____ Check magneto for oil seal leaks
15._____ Check breaker felt for proper lubrication
16._____ Check distributor block for cracks, burned areas or corrosion
17._____ Check magnetos to engine timing Left______ Right _______
18._____ Remove air filter and clean
19._____ Drain carburetor and clean inlet line fuel strainer
20._____ Check condition of carburetor heat air door and box
21._____ Check intake seal for leaks and clamps for tightness
22._____ Clean fuel screens
23._____ Clean and check gasolator
24._____ Inspect condition of fuel lines
25._____ Check fuel system for leaks
26._____ Check electric fuel pump for operation
27._____ Check engine controls throttle, carb heat, mixture, and prop
28._____ Inspect exhaust stacks, connections, gaskets
29._____ Inspect heat exchange, baffles and shrouds
30._____ Check breather tube for obstructions and security
31._____ Check crankcase for cracks, leaks, security of bolts
32._____ Check engine mounts for cracks and loose mountings
33._____ Check all engine baffles
34._____ Check firewall seals
36._____ Check condition and tension of alternator and drive belt
36._____ Check condition of starter
37._____ Check fluid in brake reservoir
38._____ Lubricate all controls
39._____ Inspect engine for general condition, loose parts, chafing, proper
safties and proper installation
40._____ Check condition of alternator
41._____ Check vacuum pump and lines
42._____ Compression check #1______ #2______ #3 ______ #4 ______ #5 ______
#6 ______
43._____ Grease starter gear with moly
44._____ Reinstall engine cowl
C. CABIN GROUP
1._____ Inspect canopy and windows
2._____ Check upholstery for tear
3._____ Check seats, seat belts, shoulder straps
4._____ Check trim operation
5._____ Check rudder pedals
6._____ Check control column, systems and connection
7._____ Check landing, nav, cabin, and instrument lights
8._____ Check instrument, lines and attachments
9._____ Check gyro operation, and electric turn and bank
10.____ Check or replace gyro air filter
11.____ Clean or replace vacuum regulator filter
12.____ Check altimeter
13.____ Check operation of fuel selector valve
14.____ Check operation of engine primer
15.____ Check condition of heater controls
16.____ Check condition and operation air vents
17.____ Check flap operation
18.____ Check fuel drains
19.____ Lubricate aileron, flap and elevator controls
20.____ Check general condition uder panel for loose wires, chafing, etc.
21.____ Check brake cylinders for operation and leaks
D. FUSELAGE AND EMPENNAGE GROUP
1._____ Remove inspection plates and panels
2._____ Check battery box, battery and cables
3._____ Check electronic installations
4._____ Check bulkheads and stringers for damage
5._____ Check antenna mounts and wiring
6._____ Check fuel lines and valves
7._____ Check vertical fin and rudder surfaces
8._____ Check rudder horn and attachment
9._____ Check vertical fin attachments
10.____ Check rudder bolts for wear
11.____ Check horizonal stabilizer and elevators
12.____ Check horizonal stabilizer attachment
13.____ Check elevator horn
14.____ Check elevator bolts for wear
15.____ Check elevator bell cranks and controls and trim system
16.____ Lubricate all bearings as needed
17.____ Check general condition of skin
18.____ Check doors, latches and hinges
19.____ Check wiring for damage and security
20.____ Check cables for damage, security and operation
21.____ Check cabin heater and controls
22.____ Service hydraulic brake system
23.____ Check drain holes in rudder bottom and fuselage
23.____ Reinstall inspection plates and panels
E. WING GROUP
1._____ Remove inspection plates and fairings
2._____ Check surfaces and tip for damage and loose rivets and condition of
walkways
3._____ Check aileron mounts and attachments
4._____ Check aileron bellcrank and control tubes
5._____ Check flaps and attachment for damages
6._____ Check all wing attachment bolts
7._____ Check fuel tanks and lines for leaks and chafing
8._____ Check fuel tank vents
9._____ Check pitot
10._____ Reinstall inspection plates
F. LANDING GEAR GROUP
1._____ Check nose gear travel and damper tightness
2._____ Check main gear attachments
3._____ Check tires for cuts and wear
4._____ Remove wheel, clean, and repack bearings COTTER PINS IN AXLES?
5._____ Check wheels for cracks, corrosion and broken bolts
6._____ Check tire pressure_____
7._____ Check brake lining and disc
8._____ Check brake lines
9._____ Check tailwheel assembly for integrity and grease tailwheel
G. OPERATIONAL INSPECTION
1._____ Check fuel pump and fuel tank selector
2._____ Check fuel pressure
3._____ Check oil pressure and temperature
4._____ Check alternator output
5._____ Check manifold pressure
6._____ Check alternate air
7._____ Check vacuum gauge
8._____ Check gyros for noise and roughness
9._____ Check Cabin heat operation
10.____ Check magneto switch operation
11.____ Check magneto RPM variation Left_____ Right_____ Run up
rpm_______
12.____ Check throttle and mixture operation
13.____ Check propeller smoothness
14.____ Check electronic equipment operation: fuel gauges, tach, engine
instrumensts
15.____ Check ELT for operation and battery date
16.____ Check static rpms
17.____ Check idle rpms
H. GENERAL
1._____ A.D.s complied with
2._____ Manufacturers service letters complied with
3._____ Registration, Airworthiness Cerfificate, Operating Limitations
Signature_________________________ Certificate No.________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Palm GPS units |
>
> Colours nice guys, but you have to havethe right type of screen
[snip]
Anyone know how that new Garmin 295 handheld rates for sunlight readable?
Anyone have one yet?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (in the paint shop)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan&Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
I appreciate all of the concern and the input on this subject. It is safe to
say that all who contribute actually do care if another wing separates and
we all know that it is almost impossible to free yourself from the craft at
this point. I also feel compelled to point out that almost any aircraft can
be pushed to the outside limits of its design if it flown in such a manner.
Of course there will be the occasional Canada goose to screw with your
world, but as with any other aircraft, you cant plan on every contingency.
I have heard stories of such encounters putting down fighter jets designed
for much more aggressive maneuvers than an RV. We all have to draw our own
line based upon our own flying style. I actually do fly (and drive for that
matter) in such a way as to be accused of being a little old lady by
friends. If I never plan on doing even the mildest form of aerobatics, I
would think that an airplane that was designed to be pushed pretty darn hard
in this regard would have no problems at all. Remember, this is still
supposed to be safe up to 6 G's! I am still planning on doing the wing
modifications prior to the latest design. While I am sure that the new wing
is superior to the one I am building, my own flying style does not seem to
demand it. This is the precisely the kind of debate I was hoping to
incite......if you have good reason to talk me or any other prospective
builders out of the old design, lets hear it!.....Thanks in advance, you
might be saving my life, Evan
Message -----
From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison
>
> Long term listers will recall a conversation here regarding the "wing
> removal lever." Comments about being able to complete gentle aerobatics
in
> your unmodified RV-3 are no different than doing acro in your family
C-172.
> Will it do it? Absolutely. Is it smart? Absolutely not! What happens
when
> you are pulling 3 'G's coming around that loop and you see a Canada goose
up
> close and personal? I put 5 "Gs" on the meter in the panther and I was
> straight and level when it happened.
>
> The G vs stick force gradient for an RV is pretty flat. much flatter than
> your fathers 172 and tons flatter than your mothers Cherokee. Hence the
> chance of seeing a big number on the meter due to an inadvertant pull on
the
> "wing removal lever" is much greater. Throw in the fact that you are
> operating near the limit already and we could have another article about
> homemade airplanes being deadly.
>
> I don't care how gray your hair is, or how much Viagra you use, in an RV
> EVERYONE is 21 yrs old and a fighter pilot!!!
>
> Do the right thing, modify the wing.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> dougr(at)petroblend.com
> www.petroblend.com/dougr
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Accesories & Instrument Panel |
Trying to design for future maintainability, getting lazy in my old age.
I am presently in the process of cutting and drilling holes in my
instrument panel and have discovered some of the components are supplied
with tiny attachment nuts and screws making future removal/replacement
for repairs very difficult.
For example, the electric trim switch and LED indicator units are
supplied with number two screws and nuts, the ELT monitor is designed
for #4 screws & nuts.
As these components are not designed into the removable portion of my
panel, and some clearances are tight, I can imagine myself trying to
crawl under the panel in a few years and trying to start a #2 nut in the
semi darkness. Heck I can hardly see the thing on the workbench today.
Checking Aircraft Spruce & Wicks catalogs I find no plate-nuts or
similar attachments smaller than #6 so I am thinking of making
individual collars to fit behind the inst. panel and around the
components, rivited on and with threaded holes for the screws.
However before I go to all that trouble I thought I would ask for the
wisdom of RV-Listers for any simpler solutions or ideas.
George McNutt
6-A inst pnl
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: common RV frequency |
Check the 2000 AOPA Airport Directory on page 1-30.
There is a list of Navigation and Communication
Frequencies.
The CAF (Warbirds) uses several different frequencies
from the list.
The SoCAL Wing of Van's Air Force will come up on
122.75 when flying some where. If there is "traffic"
on 122.75 (SoCAL WVAF Channel # 1), we will go to a
predetermined frequency that has been allocated by the
FCC to "flight test stations of aircraft
manufacturers".
On the way back from Oshkosh, Walt (RV-6A, N79WH) and
Dwain (RV-6, N164DH) meet Wayne Handley on the SoCAL
WVAF "private" channel. Walt took a picture of the
"Turbo Raven" flying off his wing. The "Turbo Raven"
photo is not on the web but Walt's and Dwain's RVs
were/are RV's of the Week on Van's Web Page.
I recommend that we not be "scuff laws" but "TRY" to
stay within the frequncies given to us.
In the U.S., the registration of our "Homebuilt"
aircraft lists us as the manufacturer. This is a hint
for picking a semi-"Private" frequency that MAY not
get you in trouble with the FCC since the FAA
considers you an aircraft manufacturer.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Post-1st Flight Inspection |
Alex, I use SEALUBE, bought from ACS. Yea, I am concerned about the
transducer splitting. I looked it over and all is well. If it splits,
it'll ruin my day.
Rick
> > 2. Pipe threads are hard to seal. I mounted my fuel flow transducer on
>the
> > firewall. A straight fitting was used on the inlet and a 90 elbow on
>the
>
> > exit. In order to get the elbow pointed forward, it was not fully
>tight.
>
> > Thread sealant was used on all pipe threads. Green stains were on the
> > transducer after the first flight, indicating a fuel leak. Last night I
> > removed the transducer & tighten the fitting. Fully tight, it was
>pointed
>
> > aft onto the firewall. I removed the fitting and retightened several
>times.
> > Each time the fitting turned more toward the front. With some serious
> > tightening, the fitting is facing forward and no leaks with the system
> > pressurized.
>
>Rick, what sort of thread sealant did you use? Also, I understand that
>there have been problems with cracks in the fuel transducer, so be very
>careful. High pressure fuel leaking from the firewall could be the big
>bummer. If you were progressively getting more rotation with each
>tightening, something was yielding.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William J. Oke" <Jim_Oke(at)mbnet.mb.ca> |
"RV3-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison |
I fly an older RV-3 with the original 1/8 x 1 1/4 aluminum bar laminated
spar. I purchased my kit in 1980 (hey, that's 20 years ago now !). I did the
root rib reinforcements during construction but not the spar reinforcement.
My reading of the RV-3 accident reports is that (1) there were often
significant structural defects introduced into the accidnt aircraft during
construction (center section bolts left out and so on) and (2) the pilots
were often seen attempting manuevers of the high - speed low pass - sharp
pull up type and not what normally would be considered aerobatics.
So I am will probably not bother with a new wing and be content to simply
avoid any agressive aerobatic or high-g maneuvers. In fact since my RV-3 is
registered in Canada, there is an "aerbatics prohibited" placard on my panel
which I can seek approval to remove but that is a lengthy engineering and
flight test process that I have no intent of pursuing. The new wing would
not make any differenence to this.
Besides I am busy with -6a construction as well now !
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Canada
RV-3, C-FIZM
----- Original Message -----
From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
Sent: January 20, 2000 10:36 AM
Subject: RV3-List: RV3 Mode of Operation Comparison
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> I am wondering how many RV3 builders are content to fly with the older
> unmodified wings?
> While generally not of competition form, it seems I can
comfortably/smoothly
> perform loops, rolls and most variations thereof without exceeding 160 MPH
> or the normal category G limits much less the utility category limits.
> The RV3 I built may have been one of the last ones shipped before the
> production hold. It's a fairly light, bare bones copy with a 160 lb
pilot.
> I think I remember hearing a statement made that no RV3's have had
> catastrophic wing problems while being flown by their builder?
>
> Gray
> (like the color of my unpainted RV3)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection today |
Today is the inspection from the FAA. Going to be a long day at the hanger
which is right down the taxi way from the FSDO. and they are having there
open house today from 10;00 to 2;00 If no one comes from 8 to 10 will be this
afternoon after 2. Going to go eat there goodies from 10 to 2 making my
presence known. and incourageing them to come on down to the hanger and give
it the once over. and then put it all togather, and then , and then going to
make my first flight with in the week. I hope
Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Palm GPS units |
I have a Casio E-100, HP 420 and Compaq Aero 2100. The Compaq looks great
outside because it's a reflective type LCD. The Casio and HP are both rear
lighted type LCDs. The Compaq looks good in the daylight but isn't very
good at night. The Casio looks good in daylight with a glare shield and
looks great at night or in overcast skys. I think it would depend some on
the type of cockpit you had and whether or not you plan on flying at night.
If you have a bubble canopy and fly during the day 99% of the time I would
buy the Compaq. If you fly at night or don't mind the glare shield then I
would pick the Casio. Also depends if your going to use the PDA for other
things. Inside the Casio looks great while the Compaq looks washed out.
For business use the Casio is the winner hands down but I do use the Compaq
too.
My two cents worth....
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Graham Jones <gratech(at)a1.com.au>
Date: Thursday, January 20, 2000 5:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Palm GPS units
>
>Colours nice guys, but you have to havethe right type of screen. I was
>looking at the E100 the other day and the HP Jornada as well. It's high
>summer here in OZ and the day was around 31C (100+F) ie. REAL BRIGHT!.
Took
>the handhelds out side and couldn't read the screen at all. They just
>turned black!.
>
>Took the mono Compaq Aero (?) and the Casio E15 (16 grey scales)outside and
>they didn't change a bit...... Seems that the latest techno isn't so
>great - except where you pay heaps for it like in the Garmin GNS430 etc.
>
>Graham Jones
>(SUNNY!) Australia
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Greg Yotz <greg(at)controlvision.com>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 2:42 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Palm GPS units
>
>
>>
>> To bad the Fuel Manager didn't have sensors for real updates.
>> Has anybody seen a Palm Pilot at night inside the cockpit?
>> I like the looks of the Casio E-100 PDA. It looks good and is color.
>>
>> I still like the color GPS Moving map at <http://www.controlvision.com>
>>
>> Greg
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 10:11 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: Palm GPS units
>>
>>
>> >
>> >A while back there was a discussion on the Palm units.
>> >
>> >I found this website with more information.
>> >
>> >FYI only. I am not advertising for them, but they are getting my
>attention.
>> >
>> >http://www.aspenleaf.com/palm/
>> >--
>> >Shelby Smith
>> >shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
>> >RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
>> >N95EB - reserved
>> >
>> >----------
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall questions |
Hi listers,
Well, I managed to complete the assembly of the sliding part of my RV-6A
sliding canopy!!
You don't know what that means unless you've done it!
I have decided to start working on my firewall and have some questions:
1) I'm tall and don't have the worlds smallest feet. As a result, I don't
want the battery in
the standard -6 position. After talking with the guys in Van's
prototyping shop, I am planning
to put my battery on the forward side of the firewall like in the RV-8.
In fact, I bought the
RV-8 battery box. I mocked up a battery in cardboard and it all seems
to fit ok though
a lot tighter than in an -8 which has a longer engine mount. Has
anybody seen another
-6 with the battery on the firewall? If I mount it to the far right
side of the firewall, will
it get in the way of anything coming off the engine? I know I'll affect
the c.g. a bit, but
I'm using an 0-320 with a wood prop, so it will help more than hurt.
2) I'd like to get a list of all the items that might normally go on the
firewall. I know various
people have put some of these items at other locations, but I just want
to get a fairly
complete idea of what has been put on firewalls by RVers:
1) gascolator
2) oil cooler
3) brake master cylinder
4) transducer holder for oil pressure/oil temperature/fuel pressure??
5) cabin heat box/cabin heat selector
6) battery
7) master and starter solenoids
8)
3) I'm planning to use the Vetterman exhaust and from stuff in the
archives, probably leaning
towards two Robbins heatmuffs. I seem to recall seeing pictures from a
plane that used
two heat boxes, one to each muff, and ran the heat boxes with separate
controls to both
sides of the cockpit. Can anyone direct me towards those pictures?
Does anyone have
any comments about using two muffs with two heat boxes?
I am not an active participant on the list, so I would appreciate getting
copied directly to my
email address with any comments on the above.
dmedema@physio-control.com
Thanks.
Doug Medema
RV-6A #21140, sliding part of sliding canopy finished!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
FWIW also.......
Several times I have had conversations with the folks at Vans and gotten
advice that contradicted what I had heard from the listers. When I brought
this to the attention of the Vans folks, I got the distinct impression that
a lot of misinformation flows from the listers......basically just the same
thing Randy is saying.
So good advice for the listers would be.....listen to what others say but be
careful of believing something that doesnt sound right or definitely check
with Vans if it is critical.
Chat Daniel
RV8 N678RV(reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Date: Thursday, January 20, 2000 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scott McDaniels
>
>> Any of you folks up around Hillsboro know if Scott is fed up and has left
>> the list or is he just on vacation or something?
>
>
>The former. As he indicated in one of his last messages, he has left the
>list for now, and frankly, I can understand why. That long thread on
>"profit" was the way out of bounds and I think put him over the line.
>
>In principle this list is supposed to be for the exchange of RV-related
>information for the purpose of building or operating RVs. It is that, but
it
>also becomes a forum for personal opinions on lots of things not
necessarily
>RV-related, and frequently degrades from there. Frankly, some people are
>qualified to render judgments on various technical matters and others are
>not. On the list we have no way of knowing what each other's credentials
are
>so everyone is an expert. There is a tendency for unqualified individuals
to
>put forth information as fact that is simply bad information. I believe
>that, and all of the childish bickering, put him over the top. I live in
the
>Portland area and talk with Scott fairly frequently (he's a member of our
>builder's group, the Home Wing VAF, and attends the local EAA breakfasts).
I
>know for a fact both of these things bother him significantly.
>
>I believe that if one is to successfully tolerate this list one needs to
>have fairly thick skin, and also be willing to wade through the rhetoric to
>get to the factual information. I must admit, I've been tempted to leave
the
>list myself. But then some really useful information gets exchanged and I
>stay up with it. Don't get me wrong, this list has been a huge resource for
>me through my 2+ years of building, but I too get very disappointed in the
>level of maturity and responsibility that sometimes gets displayed here.
>
>FWIW,
>Randy Lervold
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall questions |
> I am not an active participant on the list, so I would appreciate
> getting copied directly to my
> email address with any comments on the above.
Good questions, Doug!
I hope the answers also find their way to the list by way of .cc!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
Do Not Anchive
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MAC elevator trim servo |
Well, I'm puzzled again. Seems to happen more frequently these days.
I can't quite make sense of Drawing 5's depiction of the trim servo
installation. The only way it makes sense to me at all is if my two E-602 Z
brackets were mislabeled as to left and right. Even granting that, there's
no way they'll fit on the E-616 cover plate without some serious trimming of
the brackets. Of course, this is mentioned nowhere in the manual.
What am I missing here? Does someone have any pictures of this install?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left elevator & trim tab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RMI micro Monitor |
To the listers who are using the RMI micro monitor.......
Should I use a separate switch for the back lighting or have the back
lighting on whenever the unit is on? Thanks for your input.
Dale Ensing
6A finishing the wiring
Cary, Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection today |
In a message dated 1/21/00 6:25:15 AM Pacific Standard Time, TColeE(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Today is the inspection from the FAA. Going to be a long day at the
hanger
which is right down the taxi way from the FSDO. and they are having there
open house today from 10;00 to 2;00 If no one comes from 8 to 10 will be
this
afternoon after 2. Going to go eat there goodies from 10 to 2 making my
presence known. and encouraging them to come on down to the hanger and give
it the once over. and then put it all together, and then , and then going
to
make my first flight with in the week. I hope >>
Great looking plane. I wanted to salute it ;
)
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/21/0 0:17:52, gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca writes:
<<
I am presently in the process of cutting and drilling holes in my
instrument panel and have discovered some of the components are supplied
with tiny attachment nuts and screws making future removal/replacement
for repairs very difficult.
For example, the electric trim switch and LED indicator units are
supplied with number two screws and nuts, the ELT monitor is designed
for #4 screws & nuts.
As these components are not designed into the removable portion of my
panel, and some clearances are tight, I can imagine myself trying to
crawl under the panel in a few years and trying to start a #2 nut in the
semi darkness. Heck I can hardly see the thing on the workbench today.
Checking Aircraft Spruce & Wicks catalogs I find no plate-nuts or
similar attachments smaller than #6 so I am thinking of making
individual collars to fit behind the inst. panel and around the
components, rivited on and with threaded holes for the screws.
However before I go to all that trouble I thought I would ask for the
wisdom of RV-Listers for any simpler solutions or ideas.
George McNutt
6-A inst pnl
Langley, B.C. >>
I noted both these problems in my instalation. Couldn't come up with
anything better at the time so have experienced lost nuts with both units. I
think eventuallly I will go to some sort of adhesive mounting for these as
they are both so light. Also thought in retrospect, should have used sheet
metal screws, which should be more than adequate for these small lightweight
things. Of course at the moment I am stuck with these large holes which are
not conducive to sheet metal screws.
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
>
>The actual load depends on several factors. To 'protect' the circuit use a
>5 to 10 amp device. (Breaker, Fuse, EXP Bus, what ever...)
>
>Greg
The running load for Jeff's ignition system is under 1 amp.
He shows 18AWG wire to hook it up for voltage drop considerations . . .
which are obviously very tiny. The system does have an inrush
current on the order of 7-8 amps when you first turn it on.
Given that it's an electronic ignition, it should be wired to
the always hot side of the battery contactor . . . it needs to
run even if the DC power master switch is OFF. Use a 22AWG
fusible link to drive 18AWG feedwire to the ignition toggle
switch.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
21 Jan 2000 11:29:55.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Firewall questions |
I think Werner Berry has his battery in the engine compartment. Gary Sobek
should know, or at least have his e-mail.
Eric
"Medema, Douglas K." <DMedema@physio-control.com> on 01/21/2000 10:30:04 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Firewall questions
Hi listers,
Well, I managed to complete the assembly of the sliding part of my RV-6A
sliding canopy!!
You don't know what that means unless you've done it!
I have decided to start working on my firewall and have some questions:
1) I'm tall and don't have the worlds smallest feet. As a result, I don't
want the battery in
the standard -6 position. After talking with the guys in Van's
prototyping shop, I am planning
to put my battery on the forward side of the firewall like in the RV-8.
In fact, I bought the
RV-8 battery box. I mocked up a battery in cardboard and it all seems
to fit ok though
a lot tighter than in an -8 which has a longer engine mount. Has
anybody seen another
-6 with the battery on the firewall? If I mount it to the far right
side of the firewall, will
it get in the way of anything coming off the engine? I know I'll affect
the c.g. a bit, but
I'm using an 0-320 with a wood prop, so it will help more than hurt.
2) I'd like to get a list of all the items that might normally go on the
firewall. I know various
people have put some of these items at other locations, but I just want
to get a fairly
complete idea of what has been put on firewalls by RVers:
1) gascolator
2) oil cooler
3) brake master cylinder
4) transducer holder for oil pressure/oil temperature/fuel pressure??
5) cabin heat box/cabin heat selector
6) battery
7) master and starter solenoids
8)
3) I'm planning to use the Vetterman exhaust and from stuff in the
archives, probably leaning
towards two Robbins heatmuffs. I seem to recall seeing pictures from a
plane that used
two heat boxes, one to each muff, and ran the heat boxes with separate
controls to both
sides of the cockpit. Can anyone direct me towards those pictures?
Does anyone have
any comments about using two muffs with two heat boxes?
I am not an active participant on the list, so I would appreciate getting
copied directly to my
email address with any comments on the above.
dmedema@physio-control.com
Thanks.
Doug Medema
RV-6A #21140, sliding part of sliding canopy finished!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Plane needs a home |
I no longer maintain the classified section of the "RV Journal" but I am
making an exception due to the following circumstances. I received this
note yesterday:
"My good friend, Ernie Cleveland, recently passed away and left me with
the responsibility of
selling his beautiful RV-6. I spent several years helping him build it
and would buy it myself if it
weren't for the project in my garage. Here are the details:
N339EC, RV-6
O-320AIA/150hp, Bernie Warnke Prop, 1100 hrs SMOH
Completed in 1998, TTAF approx.100hrs
Terra TX/RX and Transponder, Blind Encoder
Lauritsen Interior ( Gray with boosters)
Canopy cover and tie down kit
Garmin GPS 195 GPSmap, ELT and New Peltor Headsets
Flight instruments either new or Century reconditioned
Light weight B&C Starter. New Alternator
$50,000. Firm( now) will probably ask 60K in the Spring.
Aircraft is registered to Ernie Cleveland ( Deceased)
The airplane flys great. Cruise is about 175mph, tops out around
185-190. I think it has a little too much prop but it could be tweaked
for a little more speed. Most of the testing time was flown with Ernie's
185lb frame aboard with my meager 235lbs in the left seat. CG was never
a problem. She'll fly straight 'cause she was built straight. She'll
also roll with the best of them."
Jim Boyle, (847) 795-8185 BOYLEJR(at)prodigy.net
You can see a photo of this beautiful RV-6 on the front page of "The RV
Journal":
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/
Let's see if we can find a home for this beautiful aircraft. If our
plane ever ended up in similar circumstances, we would want our fellow
RVer's to come to the aid of our friends and family.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wallace R. Penney" <wallyp(at)interlog.com> |
Gray wrote:
I have a few hundred hours on my RV3 that I built from a kit a few years
ago. I opted for the fuselage fuel tank with no fuel pumps to the O-320.
The only problem is that the longitudinal fuel baffle inside the tank has
become partially detached from its spot welds.
I have a factory welded fuse tank in my RV-3. Although the tank baffle is
still secure I did have one of the spot welds develop a tiny leak, ie just
a trace of red dye on the exterior. The tank does bulge with the addition
of 150 lb of fuel and this may be the cause of some spot welds letting go.
In my case, I also noticed that the forward wall of the bulging tank could
touch the stiffners on the firewall (rub marks on the paint showed they had
been in contact). I had to file a bit off the stiffners and I also epoxied
wear strips onto the tank just to make sure there was no more contact
between the parent tank material and the firewall stiffners. Hope this
helps.
Wally.......flying RV-3, Toronto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris marion <flyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net> |
| Subject: | firewall jigging |
Dear listers,
I am trying to mount my rv6 firewall to the fuselage jig, I need to
drill the engine mount holes for attachment to the jig. I cant seem to
find the dimensions on the prints, can someone point me in the rite
direction. also the two existing holes in the top left and right corners
of the firewall, are these pre drilled engine mount holes or just
tooling holes. I checked the archives and could find no solid answer.
thanks
chris marion
rv6 jigging fuselage in cincinnati ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire for phones |
>
>Bob
>I just finished wiring my avionics stack. I'm using the PS Engineering
>PMA6000M audio selector panel with intercom and marker beacon. Their
>instruction's say to use two conductor shielded wire for the headphone jacks
>and three conductor shielded wire for the mic jacks. "All mic and headphone
>jacks must have insulating washer's, the shield must only be connected to
the
>ground return wire only at the intercom connector." The shield is floating
>at the jack's.
>
>What would have happened if I had used the sleeve to ground the shield?
I've wired many airplanes using the shield as "ground" for the
sleeve connection thus reducing the number of wires needed in
the path between jack and audio system. The wiring PS Engineering
is equally functional, just takes more wires.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI micro Monitor |
DWENSING(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> To the listers who are using the RMI micro monitor.......
>
> Should I use a separate switch for the back lighting or have the back
> lighting on whenever the unit is on? Thanks for your input.
> Dale Ensing
> 6A finishing the wiring
> Cary, Illinois
I connected the backlighting to the nav light circuit and have been
pleased with the display in all lighting situations.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home/hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Accesories & Instrument Panel |
George McNutt wrote:
>
>
> Trying to design for future maintainability, getting lazy in my old age.
>
> I am presently in the process of cutting and drilling holes in my
> instrument panel and have discovered some of the components are supplied
> with tiny attachment nuts and screws making future removal/replacement
> for repairs very difficult.
>
> For example, the electric trim switch and LED indicator units are
> supplied with number two screws and nuts, the ELT monitor is designed
> for #4 screws & nuts.
>
> As these components are not designed into the removable portion of my
> panel, and some clearances are tight, I can imagine myself trying to
> crawl under the panel in a few years and trying to start a #2 nut in the
> semi darkness. Heck I can hardly see the thing on the workbench today.
>
> Checking Aircraft Spruce & Wicks catalogs I find no plate-nuts or
> similar attachments smaller than #6 so I am thinking of making
> individual collars to fit behind the inst. panel and around the
> components, rivited on and with threaded holes for the screws.
>
> However before I go to all that trouble I thought I would ask for the
> wisdom of RV-Listers for any simpler solutions or ideas.
>
> George McNutt
> 6-A inst pnl
> Langley, B.C.
Those of us who still have some R/C plane stuff lying around have a good
solution to the problem of mounting very lightweight items such as the
ELT monitor. The little sheetmetal screws we used to mount the servos in
our models are just the right size (#2?) for attaching these small items
to the panel. Drill the holes a little undersize and thread the screw
directly into the panel. I haven't had any problems with the screws
backing out.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Governor Control question |
Is anyone using the a Hartzell prop governor? What did you use for a cable
mounting bracket?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com> |
Friend of mine bilding an RV4 can't find any info on PN F-482 left and
right. Does anyone know where they go or better print #. TU
planejoe(at)ewol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: firewall jigging |
Chris: I'm no expert but when I mounted my -6 firewall to the fuselage jig I
decided not to drill any engine mount holes until I had the actual mount.
Instead I used 1/4 in. lag screws through those two holes in the top corners
(that I believe are supposed to match the engine mount) to attach the top (
its really on the bottom in the jig). I then made two clips of 0.063 X 1.0
in scrap al. that hooked over the edge of the firewall bottom angle and used
those to secure the bottom of the firewall at the top of the jig uprights.
These and some wooden spacers between the jig uprights and the firewall
allowed me to adjust and hold the position of the firewall quite accurately
until I got to fitting the forward bottom skin. By that time the structure
was stiff enough that I could remove the clips without any problem.
Hope this helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
Could any of you email me the location of any places that have Palm Pilot
weight and balance and GPS software.
Thanks in advance.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Here is the URL that was posted the other day:
http://www.aspenleaf.com/palm/
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing root fairings questions |
Do the wing root fairings normally need to be re-trimmed? Mine don't look
like they fit.
How close should the aluminum fairing be to the fuselage? That is, how
much crush should the rubber strip be under?
How do I drill for screws without hitting something such as rivet or worse,
gas tank?
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shielded wire for phones |
It is my understanding that only one end of the shielding should be
grounded. Sometimes with both ends grounded, you get a ground loop and that
might generate a hum.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Friday, January 21, 2000 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shielded wire for phones
>
>>
>>Bob
>>I just finished wiring my avionics stack. I'm using the PS Engineering
>>PMA6000M audio selector panel with intercom and marker beacon. Their
>>instruction's say to use two conductor shielded wire for the headphone
jacks
>>and three conductor shielded wire for the mic jacks. "All mic and
headphone
>>jacks must have insulating washer's, the shield must only be connected to
>the
>>ground return wire only at the intercom connector." The shield is
floating
>>at the jack's.
>>
>>What would have happened if I had used the sleeve to ground the shield?
>
> I've wired many airplanes using the shield as "ground" for the
> sleeve connection thus reducing the number of wires needed in
> the path between jack and audio system. The wiring PS Engineering
> is equally functional, just takes more wires.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | RV's at Meadowlake Airport, 00V, in Peyton Colorado... |
Hello All...
I don't wish to get too off topic here, but all the talk lately about places
to fly to spurred me to tell you all about our little airport... EAA
Chapter 72 - http://eaa72.tripod.com is based at Meadowlake Airport - 00V,
in Peyton, CO, just 14nm (26km) NE of Colorado Springs, at a field elevation
of 6874 ft.
We have more than 6 flying RV's, and more than 8 under construction at this
time... I have added a page to my web site with information about the RV's
and RV builders at our airport, and encourage you to take a look...
http://vondane.tripod.com/colorv/
We try to have a little cook-out / get together on the Saturday after the
3rd Tuesday of each month, which just happens to be tomorrow for January.
We'll be there from 9:00am till 1:00pm, and probably longer...
If you in the neighborhood, drop in, say hey, and have a burger! I
understand we're gonna have a few Russian aircraft visiting us tomorrow...
On your way in, just let us know your inbound for an EAA burger, and we'll
help you get to the right hanger...
Thanks...
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
At the risk of walking into the frag pattern again, I thought that the following
note from Budd Davisson in the context of someone choosing between the 6 and 6A
might be of interest to some.
Hawkeye Hughes
__________________
The RV series is in the top 10% of tailwheel airplanes in terms of
docility and handling, which is to say, it's hard to justify adding a
nose gear to a beautiful design.
After over 28 years and 3000-4000 hours in the pattern doing nothing
but teaching landings in Pitts Specials I can categorically say that the
hardest problem I encounter is overcoming the BS about tailwheels each
pilot carries around in his head. It generally takes no more than 2.5
hours to get them so they can keep the airplane between the white lines.
They may not be pretty but they are safe. Getting them to fly a good
approach is another matter altogether. If any tailwheel airplane is put
on the ground straight, with no drift it will track more or less
straight ahead with minor meandering when it slows down. This even
applies to supposedly squirrely little buggers like the Pitts. Put any
tailwheel airplane on crooked and it'll make you work. However, in just
any airplane all it takes a careful understanding of what it is you're
trying to accomplish to sort things out.
If the nose swerves left (for example) your first concern is NOT getting
it back straight with the runway. Your first concern is stopping the
turn. Your second concern is bringing it back parallel. If you leave
the rudder in long enough to bring it back to center, you have to answer
that first foot with the other foot and you wind up dancing. On a
reactive airplane, leaving the rudder in that long is setting the stage
for a super-swerve. In 28 years I've never seen a Pitts ground looped,
but I've seen dozens of them leave the runway on the third, and always
final, swerve. All of this is a direct result of pilot action, not
airplane action. Few modern taildraggers (read that as after the
mid-30's) are natural ground loopers. That's just part of the tailwheel
BS floating around.
The key is understanding that getting the rudder off is almost as
important as getting it on. The amount of time it takes to get your foot
off the rudder is critical because the airplane feels as if it is
getting half the total rudder deflection for the duration of the time it
takes to get it out. The result of slowly "walking" the rudder is that
you always have too much in. The instant any movement is noted in the
direction of the down foot, the rudder should be removed. Treat the
rudder like the hot water in the shower: turn the hot water on and the
instant you feel it getting warm, turn it off.
Much of the above effect is masked in slow reacting airplanes like
Champs, but the effect is there nonetheless.
Tailwheels are the subject of more old wive's tales and misunderstanding
than just about any part of aviation. Yes, they require a little more
skill and a little more training, but only a little. Also the training
has to be of the right sort. Being able to do it is not the same as
understanding it and the lack of understanding is why so many tailwheel
airplanes get needlessly bent. Also, most of the training for tailwheel
transition is getting a pilot to do what they were supposed to be able
to do as students: hold a correct speed, coordinate, land with no
drift, hold landing attitude and keep the tail straight behind the nose
Sorry! Didn't mean to ramble on, but this is one of my hot buttons
(obviously).
Budd Davisson
Plus 5 SportAERO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
I've had success with Riv-nuts as small as 4/40 in light duty applications.
They set like a rivet and give you a threaded hole for attachment. I used
them on the interior console and instrument panel on my Kitfox and they have
held up well. The kit I have has applicators for 4/40, 6/32.8/32, 10/32 and
1/4x20. Contact me off line if you need a source but they should be
available locally.
Larry Gagnon
Kitfox 4/912 N102LG
RV-6 Wings N6LG reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings questions |
>snip
>Do the wing root fairings normally need to be re-trimmed
Yes, I had to trim mine quite a bit.
snip
>How close should the aluminum fairing be to the fuselage? That is, how
>much crush should the rubber strip be under?
>
I set the gap at 3/16 with a piece of scrap bar stock as a spacer for a
marking pen.
>How do I drill for screws without hitting something such as rivet or worse,
>gas tank?
>
The screws go thru the root rivet flange that faces inboard. Up front they
go through the tank rib flange. Be sure you skip over the spar and its
flanges.
I drew an offset line that showed me how much to measure back after I had
placed the fairing in place.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings questions |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>Do the wing root fairings normally need to be re-trimmed? Mine don't look
>like they fit.
Mine needed to be trimmed a lot.
>
>How close should the aluminum fairing be to the fuselage? That is, how
>much crush should the rubber strip be under?
Enough to make the weather strip have a nice curve up to meet the
fuselage? Do tests.
>
>How do I drill for screws without hitting something such as rivet or worse,
>gas tank?
>
>
Measure back from the fuselage at each hole location then transfer that
measurement to the fairing strip when it is in position.
My methods only.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Breaker/switch orientation |
Electrical gurus,
I have now arrived at my final panel layout (RV-8) and cut all of the holes,
so I'm committed. The bottom of the panel features a row of Potter-Brumfield
W23 series breakers and W31 series switch/breakers for most major functions.
These will have their input terminals connected with a piece of copper strip
for low voltage loss and good mechanical integrity... very standard
practice. The problem however is that in using a combination of the pullable
breakers and switch/breakers I find that the two terminals on each style
have opposite functions. On the breakers the top terminal is labeled "line"
and the bottom terminal "load". The switch/breakers are labeled in an
opposite manner. Needless to say it would be far simpler to simply run my
copper bus strip across the top, but then the switch/breakers would be then
be wired in opposite fashion t thier labeling. My question is this: does it
matter? I don't know what's inside of there, so if anyone has a clue why
those switch/breakers couldn't be used in an opposite manner I'd appreciate
knowing about it. Electric Bob?
BTW, my layout can be seen at http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgPanel.htm
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel, canopy skirt (again!)
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
http://www.aircalc.com/
heres another
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Taildraggers |
Dammit dammit dammit.....now that you've let the cat out of the bag, HOW
are taildragger pilots supposed to claim superiority over 'lessor trained'
pilots? Stop telling people it's no big deal! Taildraggers are vicious,
pilot eating machines..... That's what I tell everyone when I tell them I
was tail dragger signed off before I even took the written private pilot
exam. You should have seen the look on MR. FAA's face when I showed him my
medical and student solo endorsements during a ramp check as I climbed out
of the Decathlon. :) You learned to fly in cessna 150's and transitioned
to taildragger BEFORE getting a license? (he asked)...... I was bored and
needed a challenge.....are we done now? (I responded).
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Hughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 2:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Taildraggers
>
> At the risk of walking into the frag pattern again, I thought that the
following
> note from Budd Davisson in the context of someone choosing between the 6
and 6A
> might be of interest to some.
>
> Hawkeye Hughes
>
> __________________
> The RV series is in the top 10% of tailwheel airplanes in terms of
> docility and handling, which is to say, it's hard to justify adding a
> nose gear to a beautiful design.
>
> After over 28 years and 3000-4000 hours in the pattern doing nothing
> but teaching landings in Pitts Specials I can categorically say that the
> hardest problem I encounter is overcoming the BS about tailwheels each
> pilot carries around in his head. It generally takes no more than 2.5
> hours to get them so they can keep the airplane between the white lines.
> They may not be pretty but they are safe. Getting them to fly a good
> approach is another matter altogether. If any tailwheel airplane is put
> on the ground straight, with no drift it will track more or less
> straight ahead with minor meandering when it slows down. This even
> applies to supposedly squirrely little buggers like the Pitts. Put any
> tailwheel airplane on crooked and it'll make you work. However, in just
> any airplane all it takes a careful understanding of what it is you're
> trying to accomplish to sort things out.
>
> If the nose swerves left (for example) your first concern is NOT getting
> it back straight with the runway. Your first concern is stopping the
> turn. Your second concern is bringing it back parallel. If you leave
> the rudder in long enough to bring it back to center, you have to answer
> that first foot with the other foot and you wind up dancing. On a
> reactive airplane, leaving the rudder in that long is setting the stage
> for a super-swerve. In 28 years I've never seen a Pitts ground looped,
> but I've seen dozens of them leave the runway on the third, and always
> final, swerve. All of this is a direct result of pilot action, not
> airplane action. Few modern taildraggers (read that as after the
> mid-30's) are natural ground loopers. That's just part of the tailwheel
> BS floating around.
>
> The key is understanding that getting the rudder off is almost as
> important as getting it on. The amount of time it takes to get your foot
> off the rudder is critical because the airplane feels as if it is
> getting half the total rudder deflection for the duration of the time it
> takes to get it out. The result of slowly "walking" the rudder is that
> you always have too much in. The instant any movement is noted in the
> direction of the down foot, the rudder should be removed. Treat the
> rudder like the hot water in the shower: turn the hot water on and the
> instant you feel it getting warm, turn it off.
>
> Much of the above effect is masked in slow reacting airplanes like
> Champs, but the effect is there nonetheless.
>
> Tailwheels are the subject of more old wive's tales and misunderstanding
> than just about any part of aviation. Yes, they require a little more
> skill and a little more training, but only a little. Also the training
> has to be of the right sort. Being able to do it is not the same as
> understanding it and the lack of understanding is why so many tailwheel
> airplanes get needlessly bent. Also, most of the training for tailwheel
> transition is getting a pilot to do what they were supposed to be able
> to do as students: hold a correct speed, coordinate, land with no
> drift, hold landing attitude and keep the tail straight behind the nose
>
> Sorry! Didn't mean to ramble on, but this is one of my hot buttons
> (obviously).
>
> Budd Davisson
> Plus 5 SportAERO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Gauthier <blunist(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MAC elevator trim servo |
The brackets that were sent to me were mislabeled and I had a lot of trimming
to do. I have some great close up photo's of this on my web site:
http://www.flash.net/~blunist/
Ted Gauthier
blunist(at)flash.net
Pontiac, Mich
Waiting for RV-6 wing kit
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Well, I'm puzzled again. Seems to happen more frequently these days.
>
> I can't quite make sense of Drawing 5's depiction of the trim servo
> installation. The only way it makes sense to me at all is if my two E-602 Z
> brackets were mislabeled as to left and right. Even granting that, there's
> no way they'll fit on the E-616 cover plate without some serious trimming of
> the brackets. Of course, this is mentioned nowhere in the manual.
>
> What am I missing here? Does someone have any pictures of this install?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> left elevator & trim tab
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6captain(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Harmon Rocket Information |
Does anyone have any information on a Harmon Rocket website or somewhere that
I can get some information on their quickbuild kits.
Thanks,
Eli Lewis
Venice, FL
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket Information |
In a message dated 1/21/2000 4:40:28 PM Central Standard Time,
RV6captain(at)aol.com writes:
<< Does anyone have any information on a Harmon Rocket website or somewhere
that
I can get some information on their quickbuild kits.
Thanks,
Eli Lewis
Venice, FL
RV-6 >>
www.teamrocketaircraft.com
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bobdz" <bobdz(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket Information |
>
> Does anyone have any information on a Harmon Rocket website or somewhere
that
I believe it is www.teamrocketaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Zaloom" <czaloom(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Taildraggers |
Now this really is out of hand! Next someone is going to say that it takes
more time to learn how to use an approach-certified GPS than it does to
"master" the tailwheel (which is about right).
I'm all for painting "conventional" airplanes into the space reserved for
GeeBee racers and sailing in the Bermuda Triangle. What else will separate
us from the inferior biomasses that checked "the other" box on the kit order
form?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Taildraggers
>
> Dammit dammit dammit.....now that you've let the cat out of the bag, HOW
> are taildragger pilots supposed to claim superiority over 'lessor trained'
> pilots? Stop telling people it's no big deal! Taildraggers are vicious,
> pilot eating machines..... That's what I tell everyone when I tell them
I
> was tail dragger signed off before I even took the written private pilot
> exam. You should have seen the look on MR. FAA's face when I showed him
my
> medical and student solo endorsements during a ramp check as I climbed out
> of the Decathlon. :) You learned to fly in cessna 150's and
transitioned
> to taildragger BEFORE getting a license? (he asked)...... I was bored
and
> needed a challenge.....are we done now? (I responded).
>
> Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Hughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net>
> To: "RV-List"
> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 2:45 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Taildraggers
>
>
> >
> > At the risk of walking into the frag pattern again, I thought that the
> following
> > note from Budd Davisson in the context of someone choosing between the 6
> and 6A
> > might be of interest to some.
> >
> > Hawkeye Hughes
> >
> > __________________
> > The RV series is in the top 10% of tailwheel airplanes in terms of
> > docility and handling, which is to say, it's hard to justify adding a
> > nose gear to a beautiful design.
> >
> > After over 28 years and 3000-4000 hours in the pattern doing nothing
> > but teaching landings in Pitts Specials I can categorically say that the
> > hardest problem I encounter is overcoming the BS about tailwheels each
> > pilot carries around in his head. It generally takes no more than 2.5
> > hours to get them so they can keep the airplane between the white lines.
> > They may not be pretty but they are safe. Getting them to fly a good
> > approach is another matter altogether. If any tailwheel airplane is put
> > on the ground straight, with no drift it will track more or less
> > straight ahead with minor meandering when it slows down. This even
> > applies to supposedly squirrely little buggers like the Pitts. Put any
> > tailwheel airplane on crooked and it'll make you work. However, in just
> > any airplane all it takes a careful understanding of what it is you're
> > trying to accomplish to sort things out.
> >
> > If the nose swerves left (for example) your first concern is NOT getting
> > it back straight with the runway. Your first concern is stopping the
> > turn. Your second concern is bringing it back parallel. If you leave
> > the rudder in long enough to bring it back to center, you have to answer
> > that first foot with the other foot and you wind up dancing. On a
> > reactive airplane, leaving the rudder in that long is setting the stage
> > for a super-swerve. In 28 years I've never seen a Pitts ground looped,
> > but I've seen dozens of them leave the runway on the third, and always
> > final, swerve. All of this is a direct result of pilot action, not
> > airplane action. Few modern taildraggers (read that as after the
> > mid-30's) are natural ground loopers. That's just part of the tailwheel
> > BS floating around.
> >
> > The key is understanding that getting the rudder off is almost as
> > important as getting it on. The amount of time it takes to get your foot
> > off the rudder is critical because the airplane feels as if it is
> > getting half the total rudder deflection for the duration of the time it
> > takes to get it out. The result of slowly "walking" the rudder is that
> > you always have too much in. The instant any movement is noted in the
> > direction of the down foot, the rudder should be removed. Treat the
> > rudder like the hot water in the shower: turn the hot water on and the
> > instant you feel it getting warm, turn it off.
> >
> > Much of the above effect is masked in slow reacting airplanes like
> > Champs, but the effect is there nonetheless.
> >
> > Tailwheels are the subject of more old wive's tales and misunderstanding
> > than just about any part of aviation. Yes, they require a little more
> > skill and a little more training, but only a little. Also the training
> > has to be of the right sort. Being able to do it is not the same as
> > understanding it and the lack of understanding is why so many tailwheel
> > airplanes get needlessly bent. Also, most of the training for tailwheel
> > transition is getting a pilot to do what they were supposed to be able
> > to do as students: hold a correct speed, coordinate, land with no
> > drift, hold landing attitude and keep the tail straight behind the nose
> >
> > Sorry! Didn't mean to ramble on, but this is one of my hot buttons
> > (obviously).
> >
> > Budd Davisson
> > Plus 5 SportAERO
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings questions |
Hal,
The fairings do need to be trimmed to fit. I fit mine to where there was
very slight contact of the rubber molding to the side of the fuselage. Did
the same on Charlie Tyrell's 6A.
Something we did on Charlie's 6A that you might want to consider. I
think it turned out nice. However----this is a departure from the plans
and, as a tech counselor, I shouldn't really promote that.
We carried the line of fastners in a straight line. In other words, we
matched the row of holes to those of the fuel tanks. The holes/nutplates
in the wing portion were in the skin area as opposed to being located in
the main, root rib. This gives you the same edge distance for the screw
holes and a nice straight line down the fairing. We used #6 countersunk
screws. As I said, this is not "per plans" and may not have the blessing
of Van's.
For locating holes for blind drilling in this area (and for any other
area), I mark the hole location and lay the corner of a 12" rule on the
location. I then draw a line 8 inches or so long and mark the line at the
5 or 6 inch location (with a notation at the mark of the distance.) Then,
lay the fairing on the wing, line up the ruler with the line and the index
mark and put a dot at the corner of the rule. You can use this method on
pre-drilled holes, as well. I think this is just as accurate as using a
hole finder when you consider that a #40 hole will eventually be upsized
for a #6 or #8 screw. The thickness of a hole finder seems to me like it
might mess up a nice tight fit of the fairing to the wing.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
>
>Do the wing root fairings normally need to be re-trimmed? Mine don't look
>like they fit.
>
>How close should the aluminum fairing be to the fuselage? That is, how
>much crush should the rubber strip be under?
>
>How do I drill for screws without hitting something such as rivet or worse,
>gas tank?
>
>
>Hal Kempthorne - SJC
>RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
>Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall jigging |
Chris,
I used a drywall screw thru the two existing holes, then clamped
the two bottom spots. I don't think you want to drill the engine
mount holes until you have the mount to use as a template.
Larry
>
>Dear listers,
> I am trying to mount my rv6 firewall to the fuselage jig,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings questions |
> Do the wing root fairings normally need to be re-trimmed? Mine don't look
> like they fit.
I had to trim mine.
> How do I drill for screws without hitting something such as rivet or
> worse, gas tank?
As I recall, I drew a reference line on the wing a few inches outboard
from the fuselage. Then I located where I wanted each hole drilled
without the metal fairing being in place. I drew a line from each
desired hole location back thru (and perpendicular to) the reference
line. I noted the distance between the reference line and the desired
hole location. Then I put the metal fairing in place, used the lines to
locate the desired hole location, and drilled thru the fairing and the
wing. Worked fine.
Tim.
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
Joe the F-482's are the rear seat bulkhead re-inforcements
get service bulletin 97-5-1 from Vans.
I were no drawings on this for my plane (#4148) I made them
and installed them myself.
I think one of the earlier RVators had a sketch and infor on this,
I'm sure Van can send you something.
Wayne RV-4 fairings.
Joe Wiza wrote:
>
> Friend of mine bilding an RV4 can't find any info on PN F-482 left and
> right. Does anyone know where they go or better print #. TU
>
> planejoe(at)ewol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Bond <ahb(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Flying an RV-8 with the "top down" |
I know the RV-8 is not designed to be flown with the canopy opened, but what if
it were removed completely, like an open
cockpit. Could it be flown in this configuration? If so how safe would it be? Has
anyone tried it? Any ideas/feedback
appreciated.
Andrew Bond
ahb(at)cisco.com
RV-8, Planning Stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall questions |
Doug
Instead of using the standard Concord battery you might try using the Odyssey
battery listed in Van's catalogue. Not only is it lighter, it's also half the
size
with the approx. the same capacity. The warranty is also longer than the average
life of a concord. This would allow a smaller battery box on the firewall.
Gary Zilik RV-6A N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying an RV-8 with the "top down" |
>I know the RV-8 is not designed to be flown with the canopy opened, but
>what if it were removed completely, like an open
>cockpit. Could it be flown in this configuration? If so how safe would it
>be? Has anyone tried it? Any ideas/feedback
>appreciated.
>
>Andrew Bond
>ahb(at)cisco.com
>RV-8, Planning Stage
Andrew,
Sorry, interesting concept, but I can't see that as being feasible or safe.
These are FAST airplanes, and not meant for lazy cruising around the patch
on a summer day at 80mph. Rest assured though, when the cooling air vent is
opened up, it puts out a LOT of air! I opened it up fully for the first
time two days ago, and it about blew the chart off my lap. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
21.5 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
I have a lot of air coming in arount the canopy skirt on my 8a. If I put
enough weather strip in to help, it sticks the canopy down so that it is hard
to open---won't slide back enough to raise up.
Anyone figured out a good remedy?
hilljw(at)aol.com
rv8a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elrod3794(at)aol.com |
After mounting the horizontal stab. And installing the elevators and the
push/pull tube.
I have 25degeree up travel and 28degree down and not any room for
the elevator stop.
the elevator horn, stops against the (F812C)angle.
I can not see where it would be a problem.
does anyone know why i have to install the elevator stop vans planes call for
thanks for any help
Mike erode 8a-qb
any builders from Birmingham area on the list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Flying an RV-8 with the "top down" |
There was an open cockpit RV-3 built by a man named John Williams, of Waco,
TX (could scan a picture of two if you'd like). It was N112KW, and first
flew in 1980. The canopy was replaced with a Pitts style windshield. These
are the spec that were given:
Engine: O-320-H2AD 160 hp
Prop: Sensenich metal 70x70
Empty weight: 724# w/ full electric
Top speed: 195mph at 2875 rpm (3500'msl)
It was mentioned that cruising above 150mph was "uncomfortable." I can only
imagine. I did talk to Jess Mallian at Copperstate this last fall , a RV-3
owner who recently lost his -3 canopy in-flight. It was in John Harmon's
3rd built RV-3, 33RV that he had purchased. Jess said it flew fine, but was
really loud and turbulent. Jess was fortunate. . the canopy lifted off and
nicked him in the forehead and then continued rearward and struck the
vertical stab chipping the paint off of the fiberglass tip.
i would think if you could beef up the canopy/latch on the -8, that it could
be flown in this configuration without any major controllability problems. .
. just drag and noise issues.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45 re-skinning wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andrew Bond
> Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 5:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Flying an RV-8 with the "top down"
>
>
> I know the RV-8 is not designed to be flown with the canopy
> opened, but what if it were removed completely, like an open
> cockpit. Could it be flown in this configuration? If so how safe
> would it be? Has anyone tried it? Any ideas/feedback
> appreciated.
>
> Andrew Bond
> ahb(at)cisco.com
> RV-8, Planning Stage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator stop |
Mike, I had to trim some off the steel elevator horn in order to get the
travel for my -6. I think this is normal. I filed the horn so it hit the
stops I put in flush across its width (height).
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 N136RC 1.3 hrs
Melbourne, FL
>From: Elrod3794(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: elevator stop
>Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:02:50 EST
>
>
>After mounting the horizontal stab. And installing the elevators and the
>push/pull tube.
>I have 25degeree up travel and 28degree down and not any room for
>the elevator stop.
> the elevator horn, stops against the (F812C)angle.
>I can not see where it would be a problem.
>does anyone know why i have to install the elevator stop vans planes call
>for
>thanks for any help
>Mike erode 8a-qb
>any builders from Birmingham area on the list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying an RV-8 with the "top down" |
unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jfarrar1" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
Great Bob, thanks a bunch, this is what I was looking for. So I could
wire it to the battery side of my essential bus switch...the one that
connects the e-bus to the battery direct??? Jeff calls for shielded
conductor for noise, do you see this as necessary? Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF
reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost,
fuselage interior and wiring.
>
> The running load for Jeff's ignition system is under 1 amp.
> He shows 18AWG wire to hook it up for voltage drop considerations . . .
> which are obviously very tiny. The system does have an inrush
> current on the order of 7-8 amps when you first turn it on.
>
> Given that it's an electronic ignition, it should be wired to
> the always hot side of the battery contactor . . . it needs to
> run even if the DC power master switch is OFF. Use a 22AWG
> fusible link to drive 18AWG feedwire to the ignition toggle
> switch.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
In a message dated 1/21/00 8:07:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com writes:
<< Several times I have had conversations with the folks at Vans and gotten
advice that contradicted what I had heard from the listers. When I brought
this to the attention of the Vans folks, I got the distinct impression that
a lot of misinformation flows from the listers. >>
Frankly I might have agreed, but some of the information Van's has given thru
the RVator in the past didn't square with reality either. There are gaps in
the info and disinformation from both groups. That is why it's not an "us or
them" choice. You need to keep your ear to the ground.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
In a message dated 1/21/00 2:56:34 PM Pacific Standard Time,
SportAV8R(at)aol.com writes:
<< I cannot think of anything more valuable to the list membership, and
indirectly, to Van's Aircraft, Inc., than an official (or nearly so) voice
from the factory on this list. >>
I also would like there to be someone(s) on the list to speak in an official
capacity for Van's. Scott was a great contributor even though I didn't
always concur with his posts (everyone sees a different reality). The
problem is that the factory has certain opinions that they often advance
which are not terribly helpful. "Just make it work" comes to mind. People
on the list can tell you HOW to make it work.
-GV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)canada.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Accesories & Instrument Panel |
Drill & tap the holes into the panel
Ted French
Prince george BC
RV-6A flying
----- Original Message -----
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 11:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Accesories & Instrument Panel
>
> Trying to design for future maintainability, getting lazy in my old age.
>
> I am presently in the process of cutting and drilling holes in my
> instrument panel and have discovered some of the components are supplied
> with tiny attachment nuts and screws making future removal/replacement
> for repairs very difficult.
>
> For example, the electric trim switch and LED indicator units are
> supplied with number two screws and nuts, the ELT monitor is designed
> for #4 screws & nuts.
>
> As these components are not designed into the removable portion of my
> panel, and some clearances are tight, I can imagine myself trying to
> crawl under the panel in a few years and trying to start a #2 nut in the
> semi darkness. Heck I can hardly see the thing on the workbench today.
>
> Checking Aircraft Spruce & Wicks catalogs I find no plate-nuts or
> similar attachments smaller than #6 so I am thinking of making
> individual collars to fit behind the inst. panel and around the
> components, rivited on and with threaded holes for the screws.
>
> However before I go to all that trouble I thought I would ask for the
> wisdom of RV-Listers for any simpler solutions or ideas.
>
> George McNutt
> 6-A inst pnl
> Langley, B.C.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
I started installing my baffle kit from Vans and the cut-outs in the
side pieces don't clear the rocker covers, also the holes for the 2
screws that secure them to the cylinders don't line up. They're about
1/2 a hole off and not all in the same direction. I'll have a figure 8
hole in each piece if I use them. Are these pieces typically this bad,
or did I get a bad kit?
Chris Brooks RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles |
Unfortunately the misfit is typical. However you will put doublers over
many of the holes so the holes in the doublers can be correct. The pieces
seem to be laser cut and are probably mis-cut to the nearest 0.0001 inch!
(And if you call Van's they will swear you are the first one to ever have
this problem.)
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C28
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Brooks <BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net>
Date: Friday, January 21, 2000 10:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Baffles
>
>I started installing my baffle kit from Vans and the cut-outs in the
>side pieces don't clear the rocker covers, also the holes for the 2
>screws that secure them to the cylinders don't line up. They're about
>1/2 a hole off and not all in the same direction. I'll have a figure 8
>hole in each piece if I use them. Are these pieces typically this bad,
>or did I get a bad kit?
> Chris Brooks RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
Would anyone besides me like to see a moderated RV-list for builders who want to
just exchange information about building? Perhaps a separate list could be
established for those posts that relate more to the politics and opinion wars
that seem to have dominated much of the list lately. I'm sorry to see a lot of
good posters leave the list out of frustration and being attacked. Do not
archive.
Doug Shenk, RV6A-QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Baffles
>
>Unfortunately the misfit is typical. However you will put doublers over
>many of the holes so the holes in the doublers can be correct. The pieces
>seem to be laser cut and are probably mis-cut to the nearest 0.0001 inch!
>(And if you call Van's they will swear you are the first one to ever have
>this problem.)
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>
Dennis -
I must have got lucky because all to holes lined up right on. I am
using a 0-360-A4M and it might make a difference for the other models of
engines. In any case I was really impressed with the quality of the kit.
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ginmarcus" <Ginmarcus(at)econophone.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's at Meadowlake Airport, 00V, in Peyton Colorado... |
Dear Bill
May I ask you if there are any RV's for sale at your airport ? I am pretty
new to the RV scene and looking around to buy either RV-3 or RV-4.
Thanks very much for your info
Marc
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 8:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV's at Meadowlake Airport, 00V, in Peyton Colorado...
>
> Hello All...
>
> I don't wish to get too off topic here, but all the talk lately about
places
> to fly to spurred me to tell you all about our little airport... EAA
> Chapter 72 - http://eaa72.tripod.com is based at Meadowlake Airport - 00V,
> in Peyton, CO, just 14nm (26km) NE of Colorado Springs, at a field
elevation
> of 6874 ft.
>
> We have more than 6 flying RV's, and more than 8 under construction at
this
> time... I have added a page to my web site with information about the
RV's
> and RV builders at our airport, and encourage you to take a look...
> http://vondane.tripod.com/colorv/
>
> We try to have a little cook-out / get together on the Saturday after the
> 3rd Tuesday of each month, which just happens to be tomorrow for January.
> We'll be there from 9:00am till 1:00pm, and probably longer...
>
> If you in the neighborhood, drop in, say hey, and have a burger! I
> understand we're gonna have a few Russian aircraft visiting us tomorrow...
> On your way in, just let us know your inbound for an EAA burger, and we'll
> help you get to the right hanger...
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
In a message dated 1/21/2000 11:30:10 PM Central Standard Time,
dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org writes:
<< Would anyone besides me like to see a moderated RV-list for builders who
want to
just exchange information about building? Perhaps a separate list could be
established for those posts that relate more to the politics and opinion wars
that seem to have dominated much of the list lately. I'm sorry to see a lot
of
good posters leave the list out of frustration and being attacked. Do not
archive.
Doug Shenk, RV6A-QB
>>
I do have one question on this. What about Rocket builders, would i become
persona non grata on this list. Also how would moderate it.
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
That is the rear seat reinforcement. Call Vans and tell them you want
the service bulletin and kit for the rear seat reinforcement. They will
send you everything you need at no charge.
Joe Wiza wrote:
>
>
> Friend of mine bilding an RV4 can't find any info on PN F-482 left and
> right. Does anyone know where they go or better print #. TU
>
> planejoe(at)ewol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com> |
N63980, RV6A, O360, CSP just finished its 2ND X country Venice FL to PHX AZ
and back (Over 4,000 miles) total time on ACFT now 66 hrs. Other then
adding two quarts of oil, fuel and cleaning the windshield no problems
encountered. I personnally have to experience something to believe and in
my opinion I beleive now that this is a great X country ACFT. The view out
of the bubble canopy was spectacular especially crossing New Mexico and
Arizona.
We used radar flight following most of the way (These folks earn their
money). We got several nice complements from the controllers about the speed
ETC. A couple of the guys ABQ center said they were building RV'S. We
encountered cross winds once that were a little to breezy for my taste but
keeping the wing down into the wind and the longitudinal axis parallel with
the runway ,everything worked out fine. Well anyway keep on buckin it's
worth it.
do not archieve
planejoe(at)ewol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | 8A Step, Flap fairing |
For those of you building the 8A QB and installing the step, I will share
this. I installed the step earlier in construction. I realize this is a
mistake now because of the step's penetration of the F-872C-L flap fairing.
As I understand it, the sequence of installation should be: 1)Install wing
root fairings 872A & B. 2)Mark flap fairing so that it is flush against the
top of the fully retracted flap. 2)Take the flap bar and floors out and
drill the forward part of the 872C L & R from the inside of the fuselage
thru pre-drilled holes in the fuselage. 3)Line up the aft part of the 872C-R
so that the forward edge of the aft part is paralell to the flap as in view
E-E in drawing 43, and drill thru the pre-punched holes in the right fairing
only.4)Install the step. 5)Make a template of the F-872-L out of cardboard
or 020 so that you can figure out where to drill the hole where the step
goes thru the fairing. 6)Cut the hole for the step in the left fairing,
install it, then drill the holes in the aft part as you did for the right
one in step 3 above.
Note where the step penetrates the fairing. It is ABOVE the crease in the
fairing. I took videos of the factory 8A, and I noticed that the step goes
thru the bottom of the fairing. I also noted that the fairing completely
covers the step weldment. This is not the case in our kits. I called Vans
yesterday about this and spoke with Ken Kruger (sp?), who designed the step.
He confirmed for me that the fairing is different on the prototype 8A and
that the fairing will, in fact, go across the WD 832 weldment just as
depicted in drawing 24A in the "Isometric View" on the left of the page.
I found it interesting that the rivets called for on the weldment are all
AN470AD4's instead of flush rivets. When I installed the step, I did not
think anything about it since I expected all the rivets to be covered by the
fairing. Ken said that it would be OK to replace these rivets with flush
rivets. So, I would recommend using 426 rivets on the top two rows of
rivets on the weldment, although I guess it's only a matter of cosmetics.
If you already installed the step, like I did, then you have to figure out
how to get the left flap fairing lined up on top of the flap before you cut
the hole for the step. I'm gonna make an aluminum trial fairing today and
see if I can make it work. Any other helpful suggestions would be
appreciated.
Jerry Carter
8AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Debi VonDane" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's at Meadowlake Airport, 00V, in Peyton Colorado... |
Right now there is only 1/2 interest in an RV-4 for sale...
1/2 ownership in 1995 RV-4
100TT and SMOH, 150HP, FP, Full panel, Leather Interior, Meadowlake,
$25K
Contact Dave Hirschman, 719-636-0274
Bill Von Dane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), waiting for wing kit
http://vondane.tripod.com
Dear Bill
May I ask you if there are any RV's for sale at your airport ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
Gee, really sorry to see Scott and Mark leave the list...Many of us OSHKOSH
and SUN-n-FUN winners read the list--but will not give their opinions on what
they are building and what mods and changes they are making because of
unfounded, unsubstantiated criticisms.
The only ones who lose out are the good people on the list who are seeking
sound advice and new ideas.
Tom RV-8, IO540 Lycoming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Moderated list, was Scott McDaniels |
>
>Would anyone besides me like to see a moderated RV-list for builders
>who want to
>just exchange information about building?
I also get frustrated at all the posts about stuff other than
building (posts complaining about whiners have no more do about
building than the whiner's posts, if you think about it - not a
flame, just an observation).
But, a moderated list is not really the answer. A moderated list
requires a moderator to look at each post and send it to the list,
rejecting the trash. But, who wants to be the moderator? And the
list stops whenever the moderator sleeps, eats or goes to the
bathroom. I will take the current list, with the quick response to
questions, over a moderated list any day.
You don't have to ready everything that is on the list. I'm pretty
quick to hit the delete key if the subject doesn't interest me, or if
the poster has never had anything useful to say before. Sure, I
probably miss a few gems that way, but I save myself lots of
frustration.
Please send any flames direct to me.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Holmgreen" <j32619(at)innova.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles |
----- Original Message -----
From: dgmurray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 12:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Baffles
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Baffles
>
>
> >
> >Unfortunately the misfit is typical. However you will put doublers over
> >many of the holes so the holes in the doublers can be correct. The
pieces
> >seem to be laser cut and are probably mis-cut to the nearest 0.0001 inch!
> >(And if you call Van's they will swear you are the first one to ever have
> >this problem.)
> >Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> >
>
> Dennis -
> I must have got lucky because all to holes lined up right on. I am
> using a 0-360-A4M and it might make a difference for the other models of
> engines. In any case I was really impressed with the quality of the kit.
>
> Doug Murray RV-6
> Southern Alberta
>
Dennis,
I have an O-360-A4N , and mine fit perfectly too. Maybe there is enough
variation in engine types to affect the kit?
John Holmgreen
Clinton SC RV-6A flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
> Tom RV-8, IO540 Lycoming
Any new news on your flight testing?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>From: HillJW(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: canopy seal
>Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 20:51:27 EST
>
>
>I have a lot of air coming in arount the canopy skirt on my 8a. If I put
>enough weather strip in to help, it sticks the canopy down so that it is
>hard
>to open---won't slide back enough to raise up.
>
>Anyone figured out a good remedy?
>
>hilljw(at)aol.com
>rv8a
I'm using adhesive backed felt that I found in 8x11" sheets at a craft
store. It doesn't drag the canopy down and is very gentle on the surface of
the turtledeck. It's been holding up pretty well but the summer heat will
be the real test of the adhesive.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
21.5 hours. Prop get's balanced today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator stop |
>
>
>After mounting the horizontal stab. And installing the elevators and the
>push/pull tube.
>I have 25degeree up travel and 28degree down and not any room for
>the elevator stop.
> the elevator horn, stops against the (F812C)angle.
>I can not see where it would be a problem.
>does anyone know why i have to install the elevator stop vans planes call
>for
>thanks for any help
>Mike erode 8a-qb
>any builders from Birmingham area on the list
Mike,
My -8 is the same way. I did not put in an elevator stop. It passed
inspection and is flying great.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Holmgreen" <j32619(at)innova.net> |
| Subject: | RMI Monitor Fuel Sensor |
For those of you using the RMI fuel flow sensor......I experience an
increase of approximately 2 GPH fuel flow at cruise settings when I turn on
the electric fuel boost pump and it returns to what I compute as "normal"
fuel flow when I turn the boost pump off.
Fuel pressure reads 6PSI (@6500 msl) with the engine driven pump and 7
with the electric boost pump on.
The sensor is mounted on the sidewall, just rear of the rudder pedals.
(RV-6A) The boost pump is mounted on the wing spar and I have about 20" of
tube with a very gradual 90 degree bend with about 6" of straight tube
length prior to the sensor.
Any experience out there with a possible solution? If not, guess I'll have
to call Ron on Monday. He's always been very patient and helpful in the
past.
Thanks,
John Holmgreen
Clinton, SC -6A with 10 hrs. and climbing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles |
The baffle kit and instructions are manufactured by a
vendor for Van's. I have a NARROW deck O-320 B2B
using SUPERIOR cylinders with low s/n's.
I had one of the first baffle kits that sold. I
experienced fitting problems and did phone and WRITE
Van's with my observations and recommendations. That
is how I found out that a vendor did everything with
the baffles.
Over the past 5 years since I purchased / fit my
baffles, there have been 5 other RV builders at my
airport that have purchased the baffle kit and theirs
fit MUCH better than what mine did. The fustration
that I experienced fitting my baffles had me say that
I would build them from scratch next time. Having
seen how they fit now, I would purchase the kit and
make it fit.
The only recommendation that I have regarding fitting
baffles to the engine, is to make a cardboard template
where the baffle goes against the engine and then use
the template as a guide to cut the baffle. IMHO, this
will save time in the long run.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Moderated list, was Scott McDaniels |
Sorry I brought this up. I'm guilty of "whining" about the "whining." I
have my delete so will just be quiet and get back to building and reading
the building posts. Just needed to vent my frustration about the loss of
major listers since I've started. I'm just looking forward to someday
finishing and flying a great airplane.
Doug Shenk, RV-6A, QB
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Would anyone besides me like to see a moderated RV-list for builders
> >who want to
> >just exchange information about building?
>
> I also get frustrated at all the posts about stuff other than
> building (posts complaining about whiners have no more do about
> building than the whiner's posts, if you think about it - not a
> flame, just an observation).
>
> But, a moderated list is not really the answer. A moderated list
> requires a moderator to look at each post and send it to the list,
> rejecting the trash. But, who wants to be the moderator? And the
> list stops whenever the moderator sleeps, eats or goes to the
> bathroom. I will take the current list, with the quick response to
> questions, over a moderated list any day.
>
> You don't have to ready everything that is on the list. I'm pretty
> quick to hit the delete key if the subject doesn't interest me, or if
> the poster has never had anything useful to say before. Sure, I
> probably miss a few gems that way, but I save myself lots of
> frustration.
>
> Please send any flames direct to me.
>
> Take care,
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (fuselage in the jig)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI Monitor Fuel Sensor |
>
> For those of you using the RMI fuel flow sensor......I experience an
>increase of approximately 2 GPH fuel flow at cruise settings when I turn on
>the electric fuel boost pump and it returns to what I compute as "normal"
>fuel flow when I turn the boost pump off.
>
> Fuel pressure reads 6PSI (@6500 msl) with the engine driven pump and 7
>with the electric boost pump on.
>
> The sensor is mounted on the sidewall, just rear of the rudder pedals.
>(RV-6A) The boost pump is mounted on the wing spar and I have about 20" of
>tube with a very gradual 90 degree bend with about 6" of straight tube
>length prior to the sensor.
>
> Any experience out there with a possible solution? If not, guess I'll have
>to call Ron on Monday. He's always been very patient and helpful in the
>past.
>
John,
For what it's worth, I recall others have reported the same effect.
The best theory seemed to be the turbulence and/or pressure
pulsations from the boost pump were changing the calibration of the
sensor. These things need the "k" factor adjusted to make them read
accurately in each installation, and it just may be that you would
need a different "k" factor with the boost pump ON, than if the boost
pump is OFF. Of course, you can only have one "k" factor, so it will
read wrong in one of these situations.
Wouldn't it be nice if someone would make a fuel computer with
provisions for two "k" factors, with an input from the boost pump
switch to tell it which "k" factor to use. Sounds like a marketing
opportunity for someone. Matt?
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles |
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Baffles
> > >Unfortunately the misfit is typical.
I don't know a lot about the baffles that VAN'S sell, but I do know that
lyc320 & lyc360 vary in shape and size. I believe this caused by the
different letter and number combinations after the engine size.
Is it maybe that VAN'S only make baffles for the particular lycomings they
sell?I.E. lyc IO 360-A1B6, lyc O 320-D1A, lyc 360-A1A.
It seems to me that you have a different engine than the ones that VAN'S
sell. What is VAN'S response to this?
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/22/2000 10:55:02 AM Central Standard Time,
GLPalinkas(at)aol.com writes:
<< www.palm.com - info on models
www.outpost.com - best price
Sorry forgot to add:
www.infoequipt.com - best E6B simulator (Aircalc lite & pro....works great,
no affiliation)
In a message dated 1/22/00 11:32:34 AM, tripod(at)oneimage.com writes:
<< Hi Listers,
Does anyone have a web page for the manafacturer of the Palm Pilots? Also
a web site for purchase of same.
Bruce Knoll >>
Also look at www.handspring.com This company is owned by the 2 people who
designed the palm for 3com. It is 100% compatable with the palm. It is also
cheaper, alot cheaper. In fact I was going to buy a handspring tell and
insurance company that i work with gave us palm V's. So know I have a Palm
V. But I would look at handspring if you want to save some money
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
Perhaps someone could act as police and restrict anyone who does not stick to
builder subjects.
Stan Mehrhoff
RV-8 to fly next week, another one mounting engine on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Metalplane(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV COMM Freq vote |
I like the idea of picking a manufacturer's test frequency as the "RV
Channel": 123.125 - 123.275 or 123.325 - 123.475 or 123.525 - 123.575
We are the manufactures and I don't think Cessna would mind.
Somebody pick one!!!!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
LARRY JUST GOT MY CARBON FIBER COWLS TRYING TO MAKE SUN AN FUN
TOM IO540
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Try http://Onvia.com if you want to buy one on-line. I've bought several
things from them, including my Kodak DC240 digital camera. Fair prices and
free shipping too.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Does anyone have a web page for the manafacturer of the Palm Pilots? Also
> a web site for purchase of same.
>
> Bruce Knoll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
Perhaps I could offer some motherhood on this subject. I didn't even built
my -6 and am enjoying the opinions of this group intensely. I mean just
that, opinions. In the year or so following the discussions in this group
I have seen happy attitudes, sad attitudes, frustrations, and a few toes
were accidentally stepped on. But nevertheless all opinions were genuine.
I think everyone is entitled to an opinion. Everyone is also entitled to
choosing what he wants to listen/ respond to (and either enjoy or suffer the
concequences accordingly). I was not born in the States and I have come to
love this country for what it can "see" that many countries can't - freedom
of speech. Yes I can recite many bad things which are direct results of
this very belief. But I think the goods outweighs the bads.
I'm willing to keep this belief - the choice to express oneself. It's a
good thing.
I still enjoy this list.
Anh
N985VU
Marylnd
>
>Perhaps someone could act as police and restrict anyone who does not stick to
>builder subjects.
>
>Stan Mehrhoff
>RV-8 to fly next week, another one mounting engine on.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scott McDaniels |
>
>Perhaps someone could act as police and restrict anyone who does not stick to
>builder subjects.
Oh, ho, ho!!! Ah, ha, ha.
You ought to put in a smiley tho, Stan, some might think you serious and
have you removed!! :-)
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers,
Brian Denk and I both took our RVs to New Mexico Aircraft Propeller in Belen
NM today to get them dynamically balanced. I found it very interesting
although David, the owner said "it isn't rocket science."
For those of you that haven't seen this I will give a brief summary: Take
top cowl off engine and attach vibration sensor to engine with cables
running out to the display unit. Run engine at full power (in our case, and
in our case with Sensenich 72FM8 props and O-360s it was 2130 RPM at 5300
MSL and about 60 degrees) while vibration is read. The vibration is given
in ips, which I believe he said is impulses per second. No amplitude is
measured. If the vibration is below .2 ips nothing is done, if it is higher
washers are screwed temporarily to the spinner using spinner mounting
screws. These weights are put at an arbitrary location as there is no phase
detection either. If the vibration is worse on the next run the weights are
moved 180 degrees, if it is better the weights are fine tuned by trial and
error. When a final location is determined a bit more weight is added and
then all the weights are moved inboard to the spinner bulkhead where they
are secured with a bolt and nut through a newly drilled hole. The bit more
weight is because of the move inboard.
Whenever I have posted about the breaking of cowl mount hinges and exhaust
supports people have e-mailed me about getting the prop balanced. I think
that is a good response, but I have always felt it was quite smooth. I have
also gotten e-mail indicating 72FM8 props are delivered out of balance.
Well, to put it to rest I had to have it balanced.
The facts in this case. Brian Denk's vibration was at .1 ips or below. As
smooth as it comes according to the prop guy. Smoother than a lot of
turboprops. The lucky SOB! He still notes his fire extinguisher trembling
a bit though.
My vibration was about .4 ips. Quite smooth but at a level where it can be
improved. He got mine to between .1 and .2 ips. I think I can tell a
difference in flight, but probably could not swear to it on a stack of
Bibles.
Any further breakage, at least I will know it is not vibration.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
Try www.igo.com
Jerry Carter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI Monitor Fuel Sensor |
> John,
>
> For what it's worth, I recall others have reported the same effect.
> The best theory seemed to be the turbulence and/or pressure
> pulsations from the boost pump were changing the calibration of the
> sensor.
>Take care,
>Kevin Horton
Could the sensor be enough of a restriction such that it is cavitating a
little when fuel is pulled through it in a pulsatile manner, as the engine
driven pump does? The pressure in the sensor would be something less than
atmospheric when only the engine pump is on. However, in the case where the
boost pump is before the sensor and on, the sensor pressure would be full
system pressure. Perhaps this is what is going on. I guess the ideal
place for the sensor would be between the engine pump and carb/injection,
but this would require an additional hose.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
>
> Any further breakage, at least I will know it is not vibration.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
Further breakage is likely to be caused by vibration, but not due to
imbalances in the engine. The whole cowl can be thought of as a large
collection of springs, each with its own natural frequency. If one could
magically "see" inside the cowl when in flight, it might be surprising (or
scary). I don't know specifically where your cowl hinges are breaking, but
is it possible to fashion small brackets with rubber feet, which, when
mounted to the firewall, apply some pressure outward on the cowl right near
the hinge? Somehow, the natural frequency of the cowl in the area of
breaking hinges needs to be changed, as it might be the same frequency as
the prop pulses. Maybe glassing stiffener ribs in the cowl in the region
of interest would also help. Just thoughts on what might help, not claiming
they will work!
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI Monitor Fuel Sensor |
I also get a higher reading of fuelflow with the electric pump on .I think
this problem was discussed on the list some time ago.The higher reading is
apparently caused by the pressure pulses generated by the boost
pump...
RV6AQ VH-KHA 31 Hours
KARL AHAMER NSW AUSTRALIA
ASCOT(at)HINET.NET.AU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
FWIW, I have noticed that on all the aircraft that I have had the propellers
balanced on it took away the low frequency vibrations and there were more
noticeable high frequency vibrations. Though it did feel better flying the
aircraft. I am not sure on your cowl but usually high freq. vibrations
cause cracking.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
First. ips is inches per second which refers to accelerometers which measure
acceleration in distance.( there also are velometers which work off of
velocity). The "ips" reading IS your amplitude, or more simply the strength
of your vibration. If nothing is done at .2 ips ( the HIGHEST acceptable
vibration) you have a lazy mechanic. If washers are placed arbitrarily you
again are dealing with a idiot. The system is simple. The accelerometer can
only measure vibration in one plane, so it is pointed to the center of crank
in plane with prop and as close as possible to it. The accelerometer not
only gives a strength reading but also a "phase angle" reading which sends
the appropriate signal to the strobex flasher. Reflective tape is placed on
prop ( I put a piece on each blade of different shape in case subject blade
is where I could not see). When pointing the strobe at prop while running
you note where tape is. Aircraft is shut down and the prop put back where
you saw it. Here is the simple fact. The accelerometer ALWAYS wants the
wieght put accross from it since the accelerometer is signaling a flash when
heavy part is NEXT to it. So you put some weight accross from where the
accelerometer is (when blade is as observed with flash) and aircraft run
again. If you were .4 and now are .2 and blade is in same place as before,
you only added 1/2 of amount necessary. I do not stop until I get the lowest
reading. The newer equipment also mounts a accelerometer back on the
accessory case. Reason is if vibration here gets better as prop gets better
you are ok. If case gets worse as prop gets better, you have problems other
than prop. Bent crank or other items. I want to make it clear I do not want
to flame you, but vibration and the methods to control it are serious and I
want people to understand this. Oh yeah, I know this from 20 years of doing
this on helicopters ( lots of rotating stuff!). Bill N. RV4 flying.
PPSEL.A&P-IA, Chief Inspector and many other things not as intresting.
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 6:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>Listers,
>
>Brian Denk and I both took our RVs to New Mexico Aircraft Propeller in
Belen
>NM today to get them dynamically balanced. I found it very interesting
>although David, the owner said "it isn't rocket science."
>
>For those of you that haven't seen this I will give a brief summary: Take
>top cowl off engine and attach vibration sensor to engine with cables
>running out to the display unit. Run engine at full power (in our case,
and
>in our case with Sensenich 72FM8 props and O-360s it was 2130 RPM at 5300
>MSL and about 60 degrees) while vibration is read. The vibration is given
>in ips, which I believe he said is impulses per second. No amplitude is
>measured. If the vibration is below .2 ips nothing is done, if it is
higher
>washers are screwed temporarily to the spinner using spinner mounting
>screws. These weights are put at an arbitrary location as there is no
phase
>detection either. If the vibration is worse on the next run the weights
are
>moved 180 degrees, if it is better the weights are fine tuned by trial and
>error. When a final location is determined a bit more weight is added and
>then all the weights are moved inboard to the spinner bulkhead where they
>are secured with a bolt and nut through a newly drilled hole. The bit more
>weight is because of the move inboard.
>
>Whenever I have posted about the breaking of cowl mount hinges and exhaust
>supports people have e-mailed me about getting the prop balanced. I think
>that is a good response, but I have always felt it was quite smooth. I
have
>also gotten e-mail indicating 72FM8 props are delivered out of balance.
>Well, to put it to rest I had to have it balanced.
>
>The facts in this case. Brian Denk's vibration was at .1 ips or below. As
>smooth as it comes according to the prop guy. Smoother than a lot of
>turboprops. The lucky SOB! He still notes his fire extinguisher
trembling
>a bit though.
>
>My vibration was about .4 ips. Quite smooth but at a level where it can be
>improved. He got mine to between .1 and .2 ips. I think I can tell a
>difference in flight, but probably could not swear to it on a stack of
>Bibles.
>
>Any further breakage, at least I will know it is not vibration.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP
>
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV COMM Freq vote |
It is my understanding that these frequencies are for manufacturers
of radios, navigation equipment and the like to use during tests.
Transmitting on these frequencies during a test run could ruin the test,
and cost them tens of thousands of dollars. There are frequently
multiple aircraft and ground stations in use during the testing... The
FAA has tracked down offenders in the past and been real mean to them!
The chances of
that happening to most of us is vanishingly small, but it still is not a
great idea to use those frequencies.
Metalplane(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I like the idea of picking a manufacturer's test frequency as the "RV
> Channel": 123.125 - 123.275 or 123.325 - 123.475 or 123.525 - 123.575
>
> We are the manufactures and I don't think Cessna would mind.
>
> Somebody pick one!!!!!!!!!!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shirley Hobenshield <shobenshield(at)cmsd.bc.ca> |
I am trying to get some imfo from those who may have installed skis on
their RV or know of someone who did.
The winter weather here has been great and I now have more time to myself
where as the 6 has always been hangered till spring, time to enjoy it more!
There was someone in the Yukon I believe, maybe an RV-4 that installed a
set. If you are here I'd sure appreciate hearing from you.
Any imfo would be great though. Thanks.
Ed Hobenshield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
>
>First. ips is inches per second which refers to accelerometers which
measure
>acceleration in distance.( there also are velometers which work off of
>velocity). The "ips" reading IS your amplitude, or more simply the strength
>of your vibration. If nothing is done at .2 ips ( the HIGHEST acceptable
>vibration) you have a lazy mechanic.
I certainly can not argue with you. It is apparent you know what you are
talking about.
I went in thinking ips stood for inches per second and specifically asked
him. He said "interruptions per second" (I said I thought impulses per
second in my first post, but I have since remembered), which I must admit
did not make sense to me as .2 interruptions per second sounds really slow.
I also asked him about amplitude and he said his system does not measure it.
I expected the system to also measure phase and again he said no and that is
why the first placement is arbitrary.
>If washers are placed arbitrarily you
>again are dealing with a idiot. The system is simple. The accelerometer can
>only measure vibration in one plane, so it is pointed to the center of
crank
>in plane with prop and as close as possible to it. The accelerometer not
>only gives a strength reading but also a "phase angle" reading which sends
>the appropriate signal to the strobex flasher. Reflective tape is placed on
>prop ( I put a piece on each blade of different shape in case subject blade
>is where I could not see). When pointing the strobe at prop while running
>you note where tape is. Aircraft is shut down and the prop put back where
>you saw it. Here is the simple fact. The accelerometer ALWAYS wants the
>wieght put accross from it since the accelerometer is signaling a flash
when
>heavy part is NEXT to it.
My mechanic had a strobe system but said he does not normally use it. He
said he does use it to detect dynamic tracking problems.
>So you put some weight accross from where the
>accelerometer is (when blade is as observed with flash) and aircraft run
>again. If you were .4 and now are .2 and blade is in same place as before,
>you only added 1/2 of amount necessary. I do not stop until I get the
lowest
>reading. The newer equipment also mounts a accelerometer back on the
>accessory case. Reason is if vibration here gets better as prop gets better
>you are ok. If case gets worse as prop gets better, you have problems other
>than prop. Bent crank or other items. I want to make it clear I do not want
>to flame you, but vibration and the methods to control it are serious and I
>want people to understand this. Oh yeah, I know this from 20 years of doing
>this on helicopters ( lots of rotating stuff!). Bill N. RV4 flying.
>PPSEL.A&P-IA, Chief Inspector and many other things not as intresting.
Thanks for all the good info. I am at kind of a loss as to what to do.
I flew 500 miles up and back to the big city area to a highly recommended
prop guy with a lot of experience only to find out he is an "idiot."
Sometimes I feel like I can't win on this deal. I get pieces breaking and
many people recommend balancing although the airplane feels smooth. I ask
around and go to the professional who is recommended and get reports he is
doing a bad job. Others say even if I am balanced vibrations of a different
frequency will break my parts. On my professional paint job I know I got a
bad job. I get my car oil changed and they put the wrong fluids in the
wrong holes and break the aircleaner.
There are a lot of things I am not capable of doing. If I can't go to the
recommended professionals, I don't know what to do.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Brian Denk and I both took our RVs to New Mexico Aircraft Propeller in Belen
> NM today to get them dynamically balanced. I found it very interesting
> although David, the owner said "it isn't rocket science."
>
> For those of you that haven't seen this I will give a brief summary: Take
> top cowl off engine and attach vibration sensor to engine with cables
> running out to the display unit. Run engine at full power (in our case, and
> in our case with Sensenich 72FM8 props and O-360s it was 2130 RPM at 5300
> MSL and about 60 degrees) while vibration is read. The vibration is given
> in ips, which I believe he said is impulses per second. No amplitude is
> measured. If the vibration is below .2 ips nothing is done, if it is higher
> washers are screwed temporarily to the spinner using spinner mounting
> screws. These weights are put at an arbitrary location as there is no phase
> detection either. If the vibration is worse on the next run the weights are
> moved 180 degrees, if it is better the weights are fine tuned by trial and
> error. When a final location is determined a bit more weight is added and
> then all the weights are moved inboard to the spinner bulkhead where they
> are secured with a bolt and nut through a newly drilled hole. The bit more
> weight is because of the move inboard.
>
> Whenever I have posted about the breaking of cowl mount hinges and exhaust
> supports people have e-mailed me about getting the prop balanced. I think
> that is a good response, but I have always felt it was quite smooth. I have
> also gotten e-mail indicating 72FM8 props are delivered out of balance.
> Well, to put it to rest I had to have it balanced.
>
> The facts in this case. Brian Denk's vibration was at .1 ips or below. As
> smooth as it comes according to the prop guy. Smoother than a lot of
> turboprops. The lucky SOB! He still notes his fire extinguisher trembling
> a bit though.
>
> My vibration was about .4 ips. Quite smooth but at a level where it can be
> improved. He got mine to between .1 and .2 ips. I think I can tell a
> difference in flight, but probably could not swear to it on a stack of
> Bibles.
>
> Any further breakage, at least I will know it is not vibration.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
I am a bit perplexed by Larry's description of his prop balance
technician placing weights by "trial and error"! The tech that balanced
the prop on 399SB used a system that left very little to chance. If you
wish to see more info and photos about this system, you can go here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/airport5.html
I found that .4 inches per second was pretty rough. The prop on my RV-6
was brought down to 0.06 ips, and it is still not as smooth as some of
the other RV's in the area.
However way you cut it though, dynamic prop balancing is a very good
thing!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http;//home/hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
Ed,
I am in the process of getting a PMA to build skis. If you want I can look
into making you a set.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shirley
Hobenshield
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 8:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Skis
I am trying to get some imfo from those who may have installed skis on
their RV or know of someone who did.
The winter weather here has been great and I now have more time to myself
where as the 6 has always been hangered till spring, time to enjoy it more!
There was someone in the Yukon I believe, maybe an RV-4 that installed a
set. If you are here I'd sure appreciate hearing from you.
Any imfo would be great though. Thanks.
Ed Hobenshield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
In a message dated 1/22/00 4:39:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
<< The vibration is given
in ips, which I believe he said is impulses per second. No amplitude is
measured. If the vibration is below .2 ips nothing is done, if it is higher
washers are screwed temporarily to the spinner using spinner mounting
screws. These weights are put at an arbitrary location as there is no phase
detection either. If the vibration is worse on the next run the weights are
moved 180 degrees, if it is better the weights are fine tuned by trial and
error. When a final location is determined a bit more weight is added and
then all the weights are moved inboard to the spinner bulkhead where they
are secured with a bolt and nut through a newly drilled hole. The bit more
weight is because of the move inboard. >>
I suggest you leave this fellow to his ignorance without looking back and
find somebody that actually knows what he is doing. I had Dave Morss (of
Lancair and Thunder Mustang flight testing fame) do mine and he actually has
read the manuals and understands the concepts.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N401 Web Page Panel Photo's |
I just added a Web Page with some photo's of my RV-4 and Panel
http://hometown.aol.c
om/robhickman/index.html
Rob Hickman
RV-4 N401RH (25+ Hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey guys tommorrow on the 23rd of January there is
gonna be an rv fly/get together at T67 Ft. Worth Hicks
airport at Rio Concho restaurant it is to start at
1000 in the a.m. if any of you could come by I am sure
that the guys would love to ogle your planes and give
compliments hope to see you there
Glenn Williams
8A wings
FT.WORTH, TEXAS
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | I sell Palm Pilots |
I work for a computer distributor. If any of you would like a Palm Pilot, I
probably can get you one for what the resellers pay. Let me know off list
what your costs are, and we'll see what I can get them for. I would be
happy to pass these on at my cost to RV-Listers.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
>I suggest you leave this fellow to his ignorance without looking back and
>find somebody that actually knows what he is doing. I had Dave Morss (of
>Lancair and Thunder Mustang flight testing fame) do mine and he actually has
>read the manuals and understands the concepts.
>
>-GV
I am looking for a prop balancer here in the Oregon area.....anyone out
there know of a good one?
Have a great day!
Denny, RV-6 N641DH (Flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | N401 Web Page Panel Photo's |
Cool engine monitor. Where did you find it? How much? Would you get it
again?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> RobHickman(at)aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 1:42 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: N401 Web Page Panel Photo's
>
>
> I just added a Web Page with some photo's of my RV-4 and Panel
>
> HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/index.html">http://hometown.aol.c
> om/robhickman/index.html
>
>
> Rob Hickman
> RV-4 N401RH (25+ Hours)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Engine Baffles responses |
Some people have suggested that my baffle misfit may be because of the
engine model. This is not the case, the engine is listed in the
application chart for the O-360 baffle kit. Also the cut-outs, and holes
in the 4 side pieces that bolt to the cylinders do not match each other.
all 4 cylinders on every engine should be the same regardless of model.
The response to my posting have been that others have fit from perfect
to terrible. I suspect that there is some variation in the manufacturing
process. I have taken a hole punch, and a file to mine and moved on.
Chris Brooks RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cross Country |
>N63980, RV6A, O360, CSP just finished its 2ND X country Venice FL to PHX AZ
>and back (Over 4,000 miles) total time on ACFT now 66 hrs. Other then
Joe, I hope you went faster than 60.6 ml/hr (4000 ml -:- 66hrs)! Even my
old Citrabira did better going from Colorado to Yukatan, Mexico.
Maybe you could check your logs. We would be interested in some details
like fuel burns, power settings and TAS.
Got to go and sand filler around position lights so I can join you lucky
flying gang.
Do not archieve.
Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
Lakewood/ Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <Richard.Zeidman(at)PHL.Boeing.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Equipment Location-RV6A |
> ----------
> From: Zeidman, Richard B
> Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 10:15 AM
> To: 'dmedema@physio-control.com'
> Subject: Equipment Location-RV6A
> Sensitivity: Private
>
> Doug,
> I'm at the same spot in construction as you are. I ordered the drawing
> OP-12 from Vans which shows the location of the electrical components for
> their prefab wiring harness. I'm making my own harness, but I thought it
> would be helpful to get that drawing ( and it was).
> I'm putting my gascolator in the left wing root. In order to get it to
> fit, I made a cardboard template of the left side of the fuse fwd of the
> spar and fitted all of the parts and fuel lines onto it. That way the
> holes in the side of the fuselage turn out in the right spot. Other than
> that I'm following the standard drawings.
> Good luck,
> Rich Zeidman
> RV6A 25224
> engine coming next month
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI Monitor Fuel Sensor |
The only handling that I know of is to place the sensor before the pump.
The theory I've just come up with is this: from the fuel pump onwards you have
a
solid column of non-compressible fuel under pressure - no matter how long the
line between pump and sensor, any pulse transmitted by the pump instantaneously
reaches the sensor. On the other hand, the column of fuel from the pump to the
tank terminates in the softer, compressible air in the fuel tank, which acts as
a damper.
In the documentation that came with the sensor I bought from Matt there is a
schematic of an electronic circuit that's supposed to eliminate false counts
from the sensor caused by vibrations of the sensor. I couldn't easily get it to
work and found it easier to more the sensor before the pump(s).
Finn
"John B. Holmgreen" wrote:
> For those of you using the RMI fuel flow sensor......I experience an
> increase of approximately 2 GPH fuel flow at cruise settings when I turn on
> the electric fuel boost pump and it returns to what I compute as "normal"
> fuel flow when I turn the boost pump off.
>
> Fuel pressure reads 6PSI (@6500 msl) with the engine driven pump and 7
> with the electric boost pump on.
>
> The sensor is mounted on the sidewall, just rear of the rudder pedals.
> (RV-6A) The boost pump is mounted on the wing spar and I have about 20" of
> tube with a very gradual 90 degree bend with about 6" of straight tube
> length prior to the sensor.
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Do not lose heart. My first question to him would be what equipment was he
using. Most are chadwick brand. There are 177, 192 , 2000 and 5800. There
are also other brands, and they basically work the same. The chadwick people
are very helpful and can be a help to your man getting him trained to use
the equipment to it's best advantage. If he was not trained you cannot blame
him. ( I did technical training so I can feel his pain). I would suggest
finding a helicopter near you and ask the mechanic where they get balanced.
They probably do it themselves. Compared to doing a helicopter a prop is
incredibly easy. If they have not done a prop again a call to chadwik will
give all the guidance they need. There is also a book put out by Chadwick
called "smooth propellor" that has all the guidance necessary and is even
considered approved data for balancing certified aircraft ( yes certified
aircraft require a 337 for balance!). If you still have problems or
questions reply as needed and I will help. I would do your prop but I am in
Dallas.
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
>>
>>First. ips is inches per second which refers to accelerometers which
>measure
>>acceleration in distance.( there also are velometers which work off of
>>velocity). The "ips" reading IS your amplitude, or more simply the
strength
>>of your vibration. If nothing is done at .2 ips ( the HIGHEST acceptable
>>vibration) you have a lazy mechanic.
>
>
>I certainly can not argue with you. It is apparent you know what you are
>talking about.
>
>I went in thinking ips stood for inches per second and specifically asked
>him. He said "interruptions per second" (I said I thought impulses per
>second in my first post, but I have since remembered), which I must admit
>did not make sense to me as .2 interruptions per second sounds really slow.
>I also asked him about amplitude and he said his system does not measure
it.
>I expected the system to also measure phase and again he said no and that
is
>why the first placement is arbitrary.
>
>
>>If washers are placed arbitrarily you
>>again are dealing with a idiot. The system is simple. The accelerometer
can
>>only measure vibration in one plane, so it is pointed to the center of
>crank
>>in plane with prop and as close as possible to it. The accelerometer not
>>only gives a strength reading but also a "phase angle" reading which sends
>>the appropriate signal to the strobex flasher. Reflective tape is placed
on
>>prop ( I put a piece on each blade of different shape in case subject
blade
>>is where I could not see). When pointing the strobe at prop while running
>>you note where tape is. Aircraft is shut down and the prop put back where
>>you saw it. Here is the simple fact. The accelerometer ALWAYS wants the
>>wieght put accross from it since the accelerometer is signaling a flash
>when
>>heavy part is NEXT to it.
>
>My mechanic had a strobe system but said he does not normally use it. He
>said he does use it to detect dynamic tracking problems.
>
>>So you put some weight accross from where the
>>accelerometer is (when blade is as observed with flash) and aircraft run
>>again. If you were .4 and now are .2 and blade is in same place as before,
>>you only added 1/2 of amount necessary. I do not stop until I get the
>lowest
>>reading. The newer equipment also mounts a accelerometer back on the
>>accessory case. Reason is if vibration here gets better as prop gets
better
>>you are ok. If case gets worse as prop gets better, you have problems
other
>>than prop. Bent crank or other items. I want to make it clear I do not
want
>>to flame you, but vibration and the methods to control it are serious and
I
>>want people to understand this. Oh yeah, I know this from 20 years of
doing
>>this on helicopters ( lots of rotating stuff!). Bill N. RV4 flying.
>>PPSEL.A&P-IA, Chief Inspector and many other things not as intresting.
>
>
>Thanks for all the good info. I am at kind of a loss as to what to do.
>
>I flew 500 miles up and back to the big city area to a highly recommended
>prop guy with a lot of experience only to find out he is an "idiot."
>Sometimes I feel like I can't win on this deal. I get pieces breaking and
>many people recommend balancing although the airplane feels smooth. I ask
>around and go to the professional who is recommended and get reports he is
>doing a bad job. Others say even if I am balanced vibrations of a
different
>frequency will break my parts. On my professional paint job I know I got a
>bad job. I get my car oil changed and they put the wrong fluids in the
>wrong holes and break the aircleaner.
>
>There are a lot of things I am not capable of doing. If I can't go to the
>recommended professionals, I don't know what to do.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Amen!
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
>Larry Pardue wrote:
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Brian Denk and I both took our RVs to New Mexico Aircraft Propeller in
Belen
>> NM today to get them dynamically balanced. I found it very interesting
>> although David, the owner said "it isn't rocket science."
>>
>> For those of you that haven't seen this I will give a brief summary:
Take
>> top cowl off engine and attach vibration sensor to engine with cables
>> running out to the display unit. Run engine at full power (in our case,
and
>> in our case with Sensenich 72FM8 props and O-360s it was 2130 RPM at 5300
>> MSL and about 60 degrees) while vibration is read. The vibration is
given
>> in ips, which I believe he said is impulses per second. No amplitude is
>> measured. If the vibration is below .2 ips nothing is done, if it is
higher
>> washers are screwed temporarily to the spinner using spinner mounting
>> screws. These weights are put at an arbitrary location as there is no
phase
>> detection either. If the vibration is worse on the next run the weights
are
>> moved 180 degrees, if it is better the weights are fine tuned by trial
and
>> error. When a final location is determined a bit more weight is added
and
>> then all the weights are moved inboard to the spinner bulkhead where they
>> are secured with a bolt and nut through a newly drilled hole. The bit
more
>> weight is because of the move inboard.
>>
>> Whenever I have posted about the breaking of cowl mount hinges and
exhaust
>> supports people have e-mailed me about getting the prop balanced. I
think
>> that is a good response, but I have always felt it was quite smooth. I
have
>> also gotten e-mail indicating 72FM8 props are delivered out of balance.
>> Well, to put it to rest I had to have it balanced.
>>
>> The facts in this case. Brian Denk's vibration was at .1 ips or below.
As
>> smooth as it comes according to the prop guy. Smoother than a lot of
>> turboprops. The lucky SOB! He still notes his fire extinguisher
trembling
>> a bit though.
>>
>> My vibration was about .4 ips. Quite smooth but at a level where it can
be
>> improved. He got mine to between .1 and .2 ips. I think I can tell a
>> difference in flight, but probably could not swear to it on a stack of
>> Bibles.
>>
>> Any further breakage, at least I will know it is not vibration.
>>
>> Larry Pardue
>> Carlsbad, NM
>>
>> RV-6 N441LP
>
>
>I am a bit perplexed by Larry's description of his prop balance
>technician placing weights by "trial and error"! The tech that balanced
>the prop on 399SB used a system that left very little to chance. If you
>wish to see more info and photos about this system, you can go here:
>
>http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/airport5.html
>
>I found that .4 inches per second was pretty rough. The prop on my RV-6
>was brought down to 0.06 ips, and it is still not as smooth as some of
>the other RV's in the area.
>
>However way you cut it though, dynamic prop balancing is a very good
>thing!
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http;//home/hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
> >First. ips is inches per second which refers to accelerometers which
>measure
> >acceleration in distance.( there also are velometers which work off of
> >velocity). The "ips" reading IS your amplitude, or more simply the
>strength
> >of your vibration. If nothing is done at .2 ips ( the HIGHEST acceptable
> >vibration) you have a lazy mechanic.
>
>
>I certainly can not argue with you. It is apparent you know what you are
>talking about.
>
>
>Thanks for all the good info. I am at kind of a loss as to what to do.
>
>I flew 500 miles up and back to the big city area to a highly recommended
>prop guy with a lot of experience only to find out he is an "idiot."
>Sometimes I feel like I can't win on this deal. I get pieces breaking and
>many people recommend balancing although the airplane feels smooth. I ask
>around and go to the professional who is recommended and get reports he is
>doing a bad job. Others say even if I am balanced vibrations of a
>different
>frequency will break my parts. On my professional paint job I know I got a
>bad job. I get my car oil changed and they put the wrong fluids in the
>wrong holes and break the aircleaner.
>
>There are a lot of things I am not capable of doing. If I can't go to the
>recommended professionals, I don't know what to do.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP
Well guys, since I'm the other guy in this episode, I might as well jump
into the fray. This prop guy was also recommended to me by a very trusted
A&P/IA friend of mine who knows of this guy's integrity and abilities.
Since his equipment indicated .1 ips on my plane, he could only offer that
he felt it was fine and then asked me what I believed was a fair price to
pay. We agreed to $50 and that was it. If it weren't for the fact that my
fire extinguisher tends to wobble around at certain power settings, I
wouldn't have even thought about getting the dynamic balance done. Nothing
in the cowling has broken after 22 hours, and there are no uncomfortable
resonances or pulses that I can feel anywhere in the cabin.
Lycoming engines shake, rattle and roll, and that's just the way it is.
Watching Larry fire up his plane during his testing with the cowl top off
certainly confirms how much these things move around during startup and shut
down! Yikes...no wonder stuff breaks in there. I know mine does the same
thing, but I just haven't ever been outside the plane to see it happen.
I may redo the test after everything is painted (spinner) and the
engine/airframe has more time on it. I mean, everything is so new and it
has to take some time for things to settle in, especially the engine mounts.
I will probably have another person do the next test, perhaps a guy I met
at work who does balancing on our HVAC fans. Or, the maintenance operation
at my airport might get the call...no doubt for MUCH more money.
We simply went with the advice of trusted friends of ours and sometimes
things don't go as originally intended. Everyone has his/her different views
on what defines quality and value in services rendered. Oh well, just one
more "AFLE" in life. (AFLE=another f**&
*# learning experience).
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Here's a naive question... (I'm out of my area of knowledge here!)
The posts re prop balancing all seem to be on planes with metal props. Does
this balancing also work on wooden props with the same techniques and
equipment? It would seem so to me, but most of you folks talking about your
balancing seem to have metal props. Advise?
RV-6A w/Warnke wooden prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
Anybody care to comment about balancing a wood prop when a Landoll
Balancer is also installed.
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Funny, I didn't receive a 337 when I got my prop balanced by a local Large
FBO.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Noel <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>Do not lose heart. My first question to him would be what equipment was he
>using. Most are chadwick brand. There are 177, 192 , 2000 and 5800. There
>are also other brands, and they basically work the same. The chadwick
people
>are very helpful and can be a help to your man getting him trained to use
>the equipment to it's best advantage. If he was not trained you cannot
blame
>him. ( I did technical training so I can feel his pain). I would suggest
>finding a helicopter near you and ask the mechanic where they get balanced.
>They probably do it themselves. Compared to doing a helicopter a prop is
>incredibly easy. If they have not done a prop again a call to chadwik will
>give all the guidance they need. There is also a book put out by Chadwick
>called "smooth propellor" that has all the guidance necessary and is even
>considered approved data for balancing certified aircraft ( yes certified
>aircraft require a 337 for balance!). If you still have problems or
>questions reply as needed and I will help. I would do your prop but I am in
>Dallas.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 11:26 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>First. ips is inches per second which refers to accelerometers which
>>measure
>>>acceleration in distance.( there also are velometers which work off of
>>>velocity). The "ips" reading IS your amplitude, or more simply the
>strength
>>>of your vibration. If nothing is done at .2 ips ( the HIGHEST acceptable
>>>vibration) you have a lazy mechanic.
>>
>>
>>I certainly can not argue with you. It is apparent you know what you are
>>talking about.
>>
>>I went in thinking ips stood for inches per second and specifically asked
>>him. He said "interruptions per second" (I said I thought impulses per
>>second in my first post, but I have since remembered), which I must admit
>>did not make sense to me as .2 interruptions per second sounds really
slow.
>>I also asked him about amplitude and he said his system does not measure
>it.
>>I expected the system to also measure phase and again he said no and that
>is
>>why the first placement is arbitrary.
>>
>>
>>>If washers are placed arbitrarily you
>>>again are dealing with a idiot. The system is simple. The accelerometer
>can
>>>only measure vibration in one plane, so it is pointed to the center of
>>crank
>>>in plane with prop and as close as possible to it. The accelerometer not
>>>only gives a strength reading but also a "phase angle" reading which
sends
>>>the appropriate signal to the strobex flasher. Reflective tape is placed
>on
>>>prop ( I put a piece on each blade of different shape in case subject
>blade
>>>is where I could not see). When pointing the strobe at prop while running
>>>you note where tape is. Aircraft is shut down and the prop put back where
>>>you saw it. Here is the simple fact. The accelerometer ALWAYS wants the
>>>wieght put accross from it since the accelerometer is signaling a flash
>>when
>>>heavy part is NEXT to it.
>>
>>My mechanic had a strobe system but said he does not normally use it. He
>>said he does use it to detect dynamic tracking problems.
>>
>>>So you put some weight accross from where the
>>>accelerometer is (when blade is as observed with flash) and aircraft run
>>>again. If you were .4 and now are .2 and blade is in same place as
before,
>>>you only added 1/2 of amount necessary. I do not stop until I get the
>>lowest
>>>reading. The newer equipment also mounts a accelerometer back on the
>>>accessory case. Reason is if vibration here gets better as prop gets
>better
>>>you are ok. If case gets worse as prop gets better, you have problems
>other
>>>than prop. Bent crank or other items. I want to make it clear I do not
>want
>>>to flame you, but vibration and the methods to control it are serious and
>I
>>>want people to understand this. Oh yeah, I know this from 20 years of
>doing
>>>this on helicopters ( lots of rotating stuff!). Bill N. RV4 flying.
>>>PPSEL.A&P-IA, Chief Inspector and many other things not as intresting.
>>
>>
>>Thanks for all the good info. I am at kind of a loss as to what to do.
>>
>>I flew 500 miles up and back to the big city area to a highly recommended
>>prop guy with a lot of experience only to find out he is an "idiot."
>>Sometimes I feel like I can't win on this deal. I get pieces breaking and
>>many people recommend balancing although the airplane feels smooth. I ask
>>around and go to the professional who is recommended and get reports he is
>>doing a bad job. Others say even if I am balanced vibrations of a
>different
>>frequency will break my parts. On my professional paint job I know I got
a
>>bad job. I get my car oil changed and they put the wrong fluids in the
>>wrong holes and break the aircleaner.
>>
>>There are a lot of things I am not capable of doing. If I can't go to the
>>recommended professionals, I don't know what to do.
>>
>>Larry Pardue
>>Carlsbad, NM
>>
>>RV-6 N441LP
>>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
I had it done on a wood bladed Aeromatic prop. The one with the black
blades that change pitch due to air loads and centrifugal forces. Worked
very well.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 11:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>Here's a naive question... (I'm out of my area of knowledge here!)
>
>The posts re prop balancing all seem to be on planes with metal props. Does
>this balancing also work on wooden props with the same techniques and
>equipment? It would seem so to me, but most of you folks talking about your
>balancing seem to have metal props. Advise?
>RV-6A w/Warnke wooden prop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wing walk doubler-help-rv6 |
does the wing walk skin slip under the main wing spar aft.flange or
does it butt up flush with the aft. main spar flange.
tcrv6(at)aol.com left-wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles responses |
>
>all 4 cylinders on every engine should be the same regardless of model.
While I would be more suspect of the accuracy of the baffle parts, I would
not be willing to completely rule out differences in engines -- even
differences in two engines of the same model. This would apply even more
if they had been overhauled. Tolerances, tolerances, tolerances again!
I wonder how Lycoming determines where to put the holes and what the
tolerances are. I wonder if they make the cylinders? I wonder if there
are more than one drilling setup? I wonder if they worry much about the
locations of these holes they never use? Anyone have an engine apart and
willing to measure how cylinders compare if installed in the same place in
the case?
Mine baffle parts were not off by much on a new 0360A1A from Van. I can
find reasons to complain about the documentation but I can do that with
most any docs I see. What really helps construction are some good photos
or better, the real thing in the next hangar.
I'm about to install the baffle seal fabric. I am trying to think of easy
way to determine if metal parts need to be trimmed further. One suggestion
involved cardboard fingers. I was also thinking of blobs of clay.
I almost think it would be easier to make a full pressure plenum or
whatever it is called (where the cowl is not part of the pressure chamber).
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Cooling inlet clearance |
For those of you with RV6's with C/S 360's and epoxy cowlings: About how
much clearance is there between the #1 cylinder fins (the largest ones) and
the epoxy inlet ramp which is bonded to the upper cowl? I simply fit the
epoxy ramps on the top cowl by best fit, but there is only about 3/4"
clearance at the minimum point, which doesn't seem to be much. I could
move the ramp forward, but wanted to know if others who are flying might
comment.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing walk doubler-help-rv6 |
Hi:
The wing walk doubler should butt up to the flange of the spar. Been
there....doin' it again.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
second wing
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: TCRV6(at)aol.com <TCRV6(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 12:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing walk doubler-help-rv6
>
>
> does the wing walk skin slip under the main wing spar aft.flange
or
>does it butt up flush with the aft. main spar flange.
>
> tcrv6(at)aol.com left-wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Holmgreen" <j32619(at)innova.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI Monitor Fuel Sensor |
Thanks Karl and others that have replied.
From the suggestions I have received, I believe the solution may be to
reverse the positions of the fuel sensor and the electric boost pump. Then
I may be able to enter one K-Factor that will work in both situations. In
this case all fuel will be pulled through the sensor rather than pulled by
the engine driven pump and pushed by the electric pump.
Sound reasonable?
John
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMI Monitor Fuel Sensor
>
> I also get a higher reading of fuelflow with the electric pump on .I think
> this problem was discussed on the list some time ago.The higher reading is
> apparently caused by the pressure pulses generated by the boost
> pump...
> RV6AQ VH-KHA 31 Hours
> KARL AHAMER NSW AUSTRALIA
> ASCOT(at)HINET.NET.AU
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
John wrote:
>
> Here's a naive question... (I'm out of my area of knowledge here!)
>
> The posts re prop balancing all seem to be on planes with metal props. Does
> this balancing also work on wooden props with the same techniques and
> equipment? It would seem so to me, but most of you folks talking about your
> balancing seem to have metal props. Advise?
> RV-6A w/Warnke wooden prop
Wood props will change in mass due to humidity. The balance may not last.
They are also considered to be inherently smoother. This may be why the above
is true.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
>
>Great Bob, thanks a bunch, this is what I was looking for. So I could
>wire it to the battery side of my essential bus switch...the one that
>connects the e-bus to the battery direct???
Or better yet, right from the hot side of the battery contactor.
This makes the ignition system feed totally independent of any
other system wiring.
>Jeff calls for shielded
>conductor for noise, do you see this as necessary?
I don't think shielding is needed for this system. Shielded
wire is for a very specific kind of noise elimination that
I don't think exists on this product.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Accesories & Instrument Panel |
Thanks to all who responded both on & off List to my question about the
small screws and nuts holding the electric trim switch/LED indicator/ELT
monitor etc to the instrument panel. Here is a summary of the answers
recieved both on and off the List.
1) Yes it definitely is a problem trying to remove & reinstall # 2 nuts
for maintenance at some later date, those little guys are hard to handle
and vanish when you drop them!
2) If you have not already drilled the holes in your panel, tap the
instrument panel with a #2 or #4 tap as appropriate. If unable to find a
#2 tap some builders are useing sheet metal screws directly into the
instrument panel. ("The little sheetmetal screws we used to mount the
servos in our models are just the right size (#2?) for attaching these
small items").
3) If you have already drilled the mounting holes in the panel for the
#2 screws,[or #4] and they are oversize for tapping, cut a small strip
of aluminum same thickness as panel, apply JB Weld and stick it to the
back of the panel over the through holes.
You can then drill and tap to appropriate size.[after the JB sets up.]
4) Riv-nuts and nut plates are reported to be available in a #4-40 size
but I have not been able to find any locally.
George McNutt 6-A
inst-pnl
Langley, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaker/switch orientation |
>
>Electrical gurus,
>
>I have now arrived at my final panel layout (RV-8) and cut all of the holes,
>so I'm committed. The bottom of the panel features a row of Potter-Brumfield
>W23 series breakers and W31 series switch/breakers for most major functions.
>These will have their input terminals connected with a piece of copper strip
>for low voltage loss and good mechanical integrity... very standard
>practice. The problem however is that in using a combination of the pullable
>breakers and switch/breakers I find that the two terminals on each style
>have opposite functions. On the breakers the top terminal is labeled "line"
>and the bottom terminal "load". The switch/breakers are labeled in an
>opposite manner. Needless to say it would be far simpler to simply run my
>copper bus strip across the top, but then the switch/breakers would be then
>be wired in opposite fashion t thier labeling. My question is this: does it
>matter? I don't know what's inside of there, so if anyone has a clue why
>those switch/breakers couldn't be used in an opposite manner I'd appreciate
>knowing about it. Electric Bob?
it's not critical . . . there are some very small considerations for
internal construction of breakers and switches with respect to line and
load terminals . . . that come into play only when a breaker is required
to operate. Repeat after me, "MY airplane will be totally free of
nuisance trips." . . . you you can wire the breakers any way you like.
Why not make it simpler yet and buy your bus bars and circuit protection
already assembled and installed in 10 minutes? The breaker-patch
in airplanes needs to go away . . . it only adds weight, costs dollars,
uses up panel space, takes hours to build, and adds no value in terms
of operability or flight safety over a simple fuse panel. . . . it DOES
look sexy tho . . .
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
Bob,
Whats the status of Revision-9? When do you think they might be ready to ship?
Any price
changes?
I've got 4 copies of R-8 left
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
(Lancair Bookstore; Glastar Bookstore, AMT On-Line Bookstore, Cleaveland Aircraft
Tools
Bookstore)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
It works on anything that spins. I have tracked and balanced all my ceiling
fans!
-----Original Message-----
From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 10:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>Here's a naive question... (I'm out of my area of knowledge here!)
>
>The posts re prop balancing all seem to be on planes with metal props. Does
>this balancing also work on wooden props with the same techniques and
>equipment? It would seem so to me, but most of you folks talking about your
>balancing seem to have metal props. Advise?
>RV-6A w/Warnke wooden prop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Many do not know, look into FAR43 appendix on Major repairs/alterations
props. Changing the balance of a prop is a major. If you ask for Chadwicks
copy of "smooth Propellor" they have on cover the letter from FAA region
considering that book approved data for modifying a propellor balance by
adding weights. Approved data is not necessary if it is a minor.
Unfortunately since the FAA rarely inforces many of A&P infractions we
assume we are right. Study the regs, call FAA region, not your local guy and
you may be suprised what you find.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>Funny, I didn't receive a 337 when I got my prop balanced by a local Large
>FBO.
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Noel <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 10:18 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
>>
>>Do not lose heart. My first question to him would be what equipment was he
>>using. Most are chadwick brand. There are 177, 192 , 2000 and 5800. There
>>are also other brands, and they basically work the same. The chadwick
>people
>>are very helpful and can be a help to your man getting him trained to use
>>the equipment to it's best advantage. If he was not trained you cannot
>blame
>>him. ( I did technical training so I can feel his pain). I would suggest
>>finding a helicopter near you and ask the mechanic where they get
balanced.
>>They probably do it themselves. Compared to doing a helicopter a prop is
>>incredibly easy. If they have not done a prop again a call to chadwik will
>>give all the guidance they need. There is also a book put out by Chadwick
>>called "smooth propellor" that has all the guidance necessary and is even
>>considered approved data for balancing certified aircraft ( yes certified
>>aircraft require a 337 for balance!). If you still have problems or
>>questions reply as needed and I will help. I would do your prop but I am
in
>>Dallas.
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 11:26 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>First. ips is inches per second which refers to accelerometers which
>>>measure
>>>>acceleration in distance.( there also are velometers which work off of
>>>>velocity). The "ips" reading IS your amplitude, or more simply the
>>strength
>>>>of your vibration. If nothing is done at .2 ips ( the HIGHEST acceptable
>>>>vibration) you have a lazy mechanic.
>>>
>>>
>>>I certainly can not argue with you. It is apparent you know what you are
>>>talking about.
>>>
>>>I went in thinking ips stood for inches per second and specifically asked
>>>him. He said "interruptions per second" (I said I thought impulses per
>>>second in my first post, but I have since remembered), which I must admit
>>>did not make sense to me as .2 interruptions per second sounds really
>slow.
>>>I also asked him about amplitude and he said his system does not measure
>>it.
>>>I expected the system to also measure phase and again he said no and that
>>is
>>>why the first placement is arbitrary.
>>>
>>>
>>>>If washers are placed arbitrarily you
>>>>again are dealing with a idiot. The system is simple. The accelerometer
>>can
>>>>only measure vibration in one plane, so it is pointed to the center of
>>>crank
>>>>in plane with prop and as close as possible to it. The accelerometer not
>>>>only gives a strength reading but also a "phase angle" reading which
>sends
>>>>the appropriate signal to the strobex flasher. Reflective tape is placed
>>on
>>>>prop ( I put a piece on each blade of different shape in case subject
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Is that a harmonic balancer? It is best to balance prop without harmonic
first, then install harmonic being sure the prop goes back in same place.
The reason is the harmonic balancer reduces chances of DIFFERENT vibrations
coming together with distructive results. Anything you do to reduce the
vibrations in the first place helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 11:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>Anybody care to comment about balancing a wood prop when a Landoll
>Balancer is also installed.
>
>chet
>
>
blade
>>>>is where I could not see). When pointing the strobe at prop while
running
>>>>you note where tape is. Aircraft is shut down and the prop put back
where
>>>>you saw it. Here is the simple fact. The accelerometer ALWAYS wants the
>>>>wieght put accross from it since the accelerometer is signaling a flash
>>>when
>>>>heavy part is NEXT to it.
>>>
>>>My mechanic had a strobe system but said he does not normally use it. He
>>>said he does use it to detect dynamic tracking problems.
>>>
>>>>So you put some weight accross from where the
>>>>accelerometer is (when blade is as observed with flash) and aircraft run
>>>>again. If you were .4 and now are .2 and blade is in same place as
>before,
>>>>you only added 1/2 of amount necessary. I do not stop until I get the
>>>lowest
>>>>reading. The newer equipment also mounts a accelerometer back on the
>>>>accessory case. Reason is if vibration here gets better as prop gets
>>better
>>>>you are ok. If case gets worse as prop gets better, you have problems
>>other
>>>>than prop. Bent crank or other items. I want to make it clear I do not
>>want
>>>>to flame you, but vibration and the methods to control it are serious
and
>>I
>>>>want people to understand this. Oh yeah, I know this from 20 years of
>>doing
>>>>this on helicopters ( lots of rotating stuff!). Bill N. RV4 flying.
>>>>PPSEL.A&P-IA, Chief Inspector and many other things not as intresting.
>>>
>>>
>>>Thanks for all the good info. I am at kind of a loss as to what to do.
>>>
>>>I flew 500 miles up and back to the big city area to a highly recommended
>>>prop guy with a lot of experience only to find out he is an "idiot."
>>>Sometimes I feel like I can't win on this deal. I get pieces breaking
and
>>>many people recommend balancing although the airplane feels smooth. I
ask
>>>around and go to the professional who is recommended and get reports he
is
>>>doing a bad job. Others say even if I am balanced vibrations of a
>>different
>>>frequency will break my parts. On my professional paint job I know I got
>a
>>>bad job. I get my car oil changed and they put the wrong fluids in the
>>>wrong holes and break the aircleaner.
>>>
>>>There are a lot of things I am not capable of doing. If I can't go to
the
>>>recommended professionals, I don't know what to do.
>>>
>>>Larry Pardue
>>>Carlsbad, NM
>>>
>>>RV-6 N441LP
>>>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
.1 is a good balance and hench your aircraft is doing better. Remember there
is more than just prop vibes as well. Someone who knows the equipment can
scan the range of frequencys looking for the highest strength and compare to
known rpms of other components and find other items at fault.(this is an
awesome diagnostic tool!) If someone refers you to a guy it is not your
fault. As I mentioned before, this guy just may need some training, this
dosen't come naturally even though it is not inherently difficult. It has to
be something you enjoy and then experience counts for alot too. In fairness
I have balanced more main& tail rotors than I could count, and had some real
head scratchers too! Lucky for you prop balancing is much easier. The
dynamics of vibration are very intresting, but the fact is vibration kills.
Keep your head up, most A&P's are NOT crooks and have the highest standards,
the real reason for safety in this industry.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
>> >First. ips is inches per second which refers to accelerometers which
>>measure
>> >acceleration in distance.( there also are velometers which work off of
>> >velocity). The "ips" reading IS your amplitude, or more simply the
>>strength
>> >of your vibration. If nothing is done at .2 ips ( the HIGHEST acceptable
>> >vibration) you have a lazy mechanic.
>>
>>
>>I certainly can not argue with you. It is apparent you know what you are
>>talking about.
>
>>
>>
>>Thanks for all the good info. I am at kind of a loss as to what to do.
>>
>>I flew 500 miles up and back to the big city area to a highly recommended
>>prop guy with a lot of experience only to find out he is an "idiot."
>>Sometimes I feel like I can't win on this deal. I get pieces breaking and
>>many people recommend balancing although the airplane feels smooth. I ask
>>around and go to the professional who is recommended and get reports he is
>>doing a bad job. Others say even if I am balanced vibrations of a
>>different
>>frequency will break my parts. On my professional paint job I know I got
a
>>bad job. I get my car oil changed and they put the wrong fluids in the
>>wrong holes and break the aircleaner.
>>
>>There are a lot of things I am not capable of doing. If I can't go to the
>>recommended professionals, I don't know what to do.
>>
>>Larry Pardue
>>Carlsbad, NM
>>
>>RV-6 N441LP
>
>
>Well guys, since I'm the other guy in this episode, I might as well jump
>into the fray. This prop guy was also recommended to me by a very trusted
>A&P/IA friend of mine who knows of this guy's integrity and abilities.
>Since his equipment indicated .1 ips on my plane, he could only offer that
>he felt it was fine and then asked me what I believed was a fair price to
>pay. We agreed to $50 and that was it. If it weren't for the fact that my
>fire extinguisher tends to wobble around at certain power settings, I
>wouldn't have even thought about getting the dynamic balance done. Nothing
>in the cowling has broken after 22 hours, and there are no uncomfortable
>resonances or pulses that I can feel anywhere in the cabin.
>
>Lycoming engines shake, rattle and roll, and that's just the way it is.
>Watching Larry fire up his plane during his testing with the cowl top off
>certainly confirms how much these things move around during startup and
shut
>down! Yikes...no wonder stuff breaks in there. I know mine does the same
>thing, but I just haven't ever been outside the plane to see it happen.
>
>I may redo the test after everything is painted (spinner) and the
>engine/airframe has more time on it. I mean, everything is so new and it
>has to take some time for things to settle in, especially the engine
mounts.
> I will probably have another person do the next test, perhaps a guy I met
>at work who does balancing on our HVAC fans. Or, the maintenance operation
>at my airport might get the call...no doubt for MUCH more money.
>
>We simply went with the advice of trusted friends of ours and sometimes
>things don't go as originally intended. Everyone has his/her different
views
>on what defines quality and value in services rendered. Oh well, just one
>more "AFLE" in life. (AFLE=another f**&
*# learning experience).
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Wood props are smoother due to the charachteristics of the wood, it gives
thus damping vibration somewhat. To illustrate, get a piece of 2x4 and hit
with hammer, then do same to solid piece os steel same size. Wood damps,
metal transmits.
-----Original Message-----
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
>John wrote:
>
>>
>> Here's a naive question... (I'm out of my area of knowledge here!)
>>
>> The posts re prop balancing all seem to be on planes with metal props.
Does
>> this balancing also work on wooden props with the same techniques and
>> equipment? It would seem so to me, but most of you folks talking about
your
>> balancing seem to have metal props. Advise?
>> RV-6A w/Warnke wooden prop
>
>Wood props will change in mass due to humidity. The balance may not last.
>They are also considered to be inherently smoother. This may be why the
above
>is true.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cross Country |
(total time on acft now 66hrs)(tirp time aprox 20 hrs) Didn't keep track of
fuel burn and it probably wasn't to good because I run at full 75% power on
x country.
do not archieve
----- Original Message -----
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cross Country
>
> >N63980, RV6A, O360, CSP just finished its 2ND X country Venice FL to PHX
AZ
> >and back (Over 4,000 miles) total time on ACFT now 66 hrs. Other then
>
> Joe, I hope you went faster than 60.6 ml/hr (4000 ml -:- 66hrs)! Even my
> old Citrabira did better going from Colorado to Yukatan, Mexico.
> Maybe you could check your logs. We would be interested in some details
> like fuel burns, power settings and TAS.
> Got to go and sand filler around position lights so I can join you lucky
> flying gang.
>
> Do not archieve.
>
> Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
> Lakewood/ Denver, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI Monitor Fuel Sensor |
>From the suggestions I have received, I believe the solution may be to
> reverse the positions of the fuel sensor and the electric boost pump.
> Then I may be able to enter one K-Factor that will work in both
> situations. In this case all fuel will be pulled through the sensor rather
> than pulled by the engine driven pump and pushed by the electric pump.
>
> Sound reasonable?
My fuel flow sensor is before both the electric pump and the engine
driven pump, and I still get the behavior that's being discussed (higher
indicated flow rate when boost pump is on).
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
>
>Anybody care to comment about balancing a wood prop when a Landoll
>Balancer is also installed.
>
>chet
Chet,
I had my wood prop balanced with the Landoll harmonic balancer installed.
Later, I removed the blalancer and flew the airplane for awhile. I didn't
notice any change in vibration. That doesn't mean the Chadwick machine
would not have noticed a change in vibration levels. If I was to install
another wood prop and needed the weight forward, I believe I would install
the "weight ring" (no moving parts). It is considerablly cheaper than the
harmonic dampner. I would then have the prop dynamically balanced.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
>
>Here's a naive question... (I'm out of my area of knowledge here!)
>
>The posts re prop balancing all seem to be on planes with metal props. Does
>this balancing also work on wooden props with the same techniques and
>equipment? It would seem so to me, but most of you folks talking about your
>balancing seem to have metal props. Advise?
>RV-6A w/Warnke wooden prop
John,
I balanced my wood prop and it did help the smoothness and was
worthwhile, IMO. The improvement was much more dramatic on the Sensenich
metal prop. I lucked out. Both the wood and metal props were balanced for
free by a helicopter mechanic friend who was also a RV6 owner. I lent him
my Croix when it was time to paint his plane.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Breaker/switch orientation |
In a message dated 1/23/00 1:09:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
<< The breaker-patch
in airplanes needs to go away . . . it only adds weight, costs dollars,
uses up panel space, takes hours to build, and adds no value in terms
of operability or flight safety over a simple fuse panel. . . . it DOES
look sexy tho >>
Regarding sexy breakers, Carlingswitch <http://www.carlingswitch.com> has a
new series of rocker switch breakers (rocker switch and breaker and in one)
that look pretty swift. They are called their M-series breakers and are
available in ratings up to 25A. I know that Wicks buys from Carlingswitch
and they might be able to obtain these if you talk to their purchasing
person. I bought some special Carlingswitch rocker switches that way a few
years back.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jkginth(at)swbell.net |
by mta4.rcsntx.swbell.net
(Sun Internet Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.09.16.21.57.p8)
with ESMTP id" <0FOT00HVNLYAB1(at)mta4.rcsntx.swbell.net> for
Hello- I am looking for any 9A builders on the list that are working
on the tail. Please contact me off list for some simple questions about
required jigs.
Thanks,
John Ginther
jkginth(at)swbell.net
Wichita, KS (RV grin wanna be)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Nichols" <russnichols(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | tube flaring w/ Rolo-flare tool |
I purchased the Rolo-flare tool from Cleveland. When I use it, the flare I
produce isn't "centered". It gives me a nice surface in the tube, but one
side of the tube doesn't flare out on the outside while the other has an
extreme flare. I've never used one of these before, so I'm not sure if I'm
doing something wrong. I double-checked the settings, but had no luck on
numerous test pieces. Any suggestions?
thanks,
Russ Nichols
RV-6
Tonia & Russell Nichols
russnichols(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tube flaring w/ Rolo-flare tool |
>From: "Russ Nichols" <russnichols(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: tube flaring w/ Rolo-flare tool
>Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:09:54 -0800
>
>
>I purchased the Rolo-flare tool from Cleveland. When I use it, the flare I
>produce isn't "centered". It gives me a nice surface in the tube, but one
>side of the tube doesn't flare out on the outside while the other has an
>extreme flare. I've never used one of these before, so I'm not sure if I'm
>doing something wrong. I double-checked the settings, but had no luck on
>numerous test pieces. Any suggestions?
>
>thanks,
>
>Russ Nichols
>RV-6
>
>Tonia & Russell Nichols
Russ,
Did you use some lubricant on the tip of the male cone? A drop of oil or
little dab of vaseline can make for a smoother flare. Also make sure the
tubing is securely clamped in place so it can't twist or try to slide away
from the cone as you crank it down into the tube. Not all of my flares look
textbook perfect either, but they all sealed just fine. Just make sure
there are no cracks or burrs, and the flare is as wide as the sleeve that
nests up against it. I also burnish the flared end with a green scotchbrite
pad before assembly. It just looks better that way. I've found that the
real trick is to get the end of the tube as true and clean as possible
before forming the flare. After cutting it to length, I carefully file the
end flat and true, and debur the inside to remove the little lip of metal
that is formed during the use of the tubing cutter. Yes, you will scrap a
few pieces before you get the touch figured out, but that's just a typical
learning curve to be negotiated. Keep at it and you'll do fine.
Have fun.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD flying
Brian Denk
>russnichols(at)msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tube flaring w/ Rolo-flare tool |
Make sure that you are cutting the end of the tube square. i use a tubing
cutter instead of a saw. if the end is not square it will not flare
uniformly.
Robert Burns
RV-4 s/n 3524 N82RB new pics on my web page www.flash.net/~hsierra
>I purchased the Rolo-flare tool from Cleveland
snip snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | capsteve(at)wzrd.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
some of you guys seem to know a bunch about balancing, so i'm gonna ask
about my cherokee. its a 62' 160 hp conical mount lycoming. i had it
balanced by a local and he couldn't do it cause the "numbers" kept changing.
its swinging a sensinich that was sent out to be staticly balanced. i seem
to have a pretty good vibe but my mechanic insists the old conical mounts
(system not rubber) were the culprit. the motor was just overhauled 60 hrs
ago by pen yann.
any ideas????
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
Steve DiNieri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tube flaring w/ Rolo-flare tool |
I cut the tubing on the band saw. I then go to the 6" Scotchbrite wheel
to remove the heavy burrs and then slide on a sleeve, backwards. I then
use the end of the sleeve to check for "square" and touch up as necessary
on the Scotchbrite wheel (gray, fine wheel). I also use a fine file or
sometimes a pocket knife to clean out any burrs on the inside of the
tubing. Oh, don't forget to turn the sleeve around before flaring:)
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. F. Cimperman, Jr." <cimperman(at)tusco.net> |
| Subject: | Flight Instructor Needed |
I am a Student Pilot. I have over 40 hours in a 150, but I have not flown
in over 2 years. I need an Instructor in the New Philadelphia Ohio Area to
help (South Of Akron/Canton Ohio). If you have an RV6A that would be even
better.
Thanks for any assistance.
Dave
Cimperman(at)Tusco.Net
DFC2(at)Hotmail.Com
D. F. Cimperman, Jr.
ICQ 44164614
AOL IM "DFCimp"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
>
> some of you guys seem to know a bunch about
> balancing, so i'm gonna ask
> about my cherokee. its a 62' 160 hp conical mount
> lycoming. i had it
> balanced by a local and he couldn't do it cause the
> "numbers" kept changing.
> its swinging a sensinich that was sent out to be
> staticly balanced. i seem
> to have a pretty good vibe but my mechanic insists
> the old conical mounts
> (system not rubber) were the culprit. the motor was
> just overhauled 60 hrs
> ago by pen yann.
>
> any ideas????
> capsteve(at)wzrd.com
> Steve DiNieri
>
If there is something wrong with an accessory or other
rotating part of the engine, the prop balance will
give a reading like you are having.
I have a CONICAL mount O-320 B2B that I REBUILT and
converted to CS operation. It now has over 3,600 TT,
430 TSOH (Rebuilt to NEW spec). I had the prop
balance in December. Readings were .4 before and .1
after. The readings at 1,500 and 2,400 were out of
phase when we started but everything was the same when
it was done.
The $100 for the prop balance is the best thing I ever
did for the airplane. It is like a NEW airplane. The
A&P that did the work use to do all the helicopters at
the helo shop that was at the airport.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
I had wrongly assumed, that's why I'm not a CEO I guess, that Scott was
helping us all while on the clock. He was responding from home, his own
time. When everyone talks about low kit prices they should remember that
there are employees and wages involved too. It's sad that a guy who
clearly loves his job and volunteers his personal time to help us has to
take a lot of grief too. I hope Van's can find the time to let him resume
contributing to the RV-List from work should he want to. Kevin do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | common radio freq. |
That's why I'm hooked on this list, I'm always learning something new.
Voice Comm. Frequencies, spelled out in the ol' AOPA, flight test stations
of aircraft mfgs., 123.125 thru 123.575, except 123.30 & 123.50.
Personally, I don't like tuning in the .025 in between channels. The
catchy one, 123.45 has been discovered. So I just start at the beginning
and choose 123.20? I suppose the "any RV's out there?" on 122.75 works
just as well.
I have noticed on two different trips to Seattle that pilots up there were
using "Glasair" and "Lancair" and yes, "RV" rather than "Experimental" when
conversing with the tower. I suppose that "Experimental" isn't very
descriptive and covers a wider gamut than "Cessna" (remember they also say
"twin Cessna"). Is this becoming common practice elsewhere? Kevin do
not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Proseal measuring balance |
Can someone tell me where I can find a picture of the 10:1 balance to
weigh out the proseal?
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
I would check for a bad alternator belt.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, January 24, 2000 2:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>>
>> some of you guys seem to know a bunch about
>> balancing, so i'm gonna ask
>> about my cherokee. its a 62' 160 hp conical mount
>> lycoming. i had it
>> balanced by a local and he couldn't do it cause the
>> "numbers" kept changing.
>> its swinging a sensinich that was sent out to be
>> staticly balanced. i seem
>> to have a pretty good vibe but my mechanic insists
>> the old conical mounts
>> (system not rubber) were the culprit. the motor was
>> just overhauled 60 hrs
>> ago by pen yann.
>>
>> any ideas????
>> capsteve(at)wzrd.com
>> Steve DiNieri
>>
>
>If there is something wrong with an accessory or other
>rotating part of the engine, the prop balance will
>give a reading like you are having.
>
>I have a CONICAL mount O-320 B2B that I REBUILT and
>converted to CS operation. It now has over 3,600 TT,
>430 TSOH (Rebuilt to NEW spec). I had the prop
>balance in December. Readings were .4 before and .1
>after. The readings at 1,500 and 2,400 were out of
>phase when we started but everything was the same when
>it was done.
>
>The $100 for the prop balance is the best thing I ever
>did for the airplane. It is like a NEW airplane. The
>A&P that did the work use to do all the helicopters at
>the helo shop that was at the airport.
>
>
>====
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>Flying So. CA, USA
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dalski, Dave" <dave.dalski(at)eds.com> |
| Subject: | Gas Cap Engraving |
Steve,
I would like to get my caps engraved. I have them ready to ship today
(Monday, 1/24. Am I too late, or should I ship them to you?
Please advise.
Dave Dalski
972-797-3350
-----Original Message-----
From: PANELCUT(at)aol.com [mailto:PANELCUT(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gas Cap Engraving
Tom and Listers
This is the last week for those that have not got there caps in. I will
start them Monday. Sorry about the delay but would like to give a few people
who have told me they sent their caps time to get here. For those who want
to
send them that haven't now is the time to do so. If they are a little late
that's OK but prefer you send them NOW. Listed below are the one's I have
received so far. I also have a few that were redo's from last time that will
be done with this batch I hope this hasn't delayed anyone but I just decided
to do all when I set them up.
John Warren
Bill Gibbs
Robert Acker
Craig Weiler
Jim Wendel
Kevin Belue
David Plerson
Tom Ervin
Dale Wotring
Pete Bodie
Mel Jordan
Gerald Forrest
Randy Pflanzer
Steven Cole
Scott Chambers
Curtis Shoemaker
Thanks
Steve Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal measuring balance |
Subject: RV-List: Proseal measuring balance
>
>Can someone tell me where I can find a picture of the 10:1 balance to
>weigh out the proseal?
>
>Doug Gray
Doug -
I don't know which model you are building, or when you started, but there is
a tips section in the back of my builders manual that has a picture of this
balance you describe. It is also in the "14 Years of the RVator.
Hope this helps,
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
Jet nuts are another solution for a smaller nut that will still fit in a
standart #3 or #4 bolt. There is a proper MS number for these nuts but are
commonly called jet nuts. Sometimes you see them on exhaust bolts and obviously
on jets. There are all metal and not all that pricey. I use 'em like cherry max
rivets.......Got a bunch of 'em just in case and they do come in handy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV 6A F-670 Side Skin Rivits |
Plan sheet #36 shows 426 AD 4-6 rivits along the main longeron @ 1-1/2"
spacing to attach the F-670 side skin. Question is how far back do you use
the 4-6 rivits? I'm assuming (looking at the plans) they are used from the
firewall back to the 605 bulkhead, then you use the 426 AD 3-5's from there
back. Any advise is welcome!
Tommy
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket Information |
Guys, remember that Harmon Rocket IS NOT Team rocket. John Harmon can be
reached via AOL & resides in California & the good folks at Team Rocket are in
Texas & Florida.... Both Rocket companys offer a great toy but each have a
different approach to the building process & design. Kinda close & kinda not.
Both are great and it depends where the builder wants to position himself.. One
is the HR-II and the other is the F-1...
bobdz(at)email.msn.com on 01/21/2000 06:00:18 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Harmon Rocket Information
>
> Does anyone have any information on a Harmon Rocket website or somewhere
that
I believe it is www.teamrocketaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
> I have noticed on two different trips to Seattle that pilots up
>there were
>using "Glasair" and "Lancair" and yes, "RV" rather than "Experimental" when
>conversing with the tower. I suppose that "Experimental" isn't very
>descriptive and covers a wider gamut than "Cessna" (remember they also say
>"twin Cessna"). Is this becoming common practice elsewhere? Kevin do
>not archive
>
>
There is a legal requirement to identify yourself as experimental to ATC,
at least in my operating limitations. My solution is to say experimental
RV on initial call, then RV, but there are a lot of exceptions.
I have been growled at for not identifying as an RV and have been growled
at for doing it. My experience is that centers absolutely do not care.
A lot of tower controllers, especially the sharper ones, do care. I was
growled at at Lubbock the other day for saying RV and not specifying what
kind. There are some sharp controllers, and incidently, RV builders
there.
At non-controlled fields RV or RV-x would seem to be always the proper
procedure.
Just my opinion.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I sell Palm Pilots |
Paul,
Check out the moving map software at www.controlvision.com and tell me what you
think.
Can you also get the Casio or HP or Compac palmtop computers?
I may be interested in getting a Palm Pilot from you. That AirCalc software is
really neat.
George
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> I work for a computer distributor. If any of you would like a Palm Pilot, I
> probably can get you one for what the resellers pay. Let me know off list
> what your costs are, and we'll see what I can get them for. I would be
> happy to pass these on at my cost to RV-Listers.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
>> I have noticed on two different trips to Seattle that pilots up
>>there were
>>using "Glasair" and "Lancair" and yes, "RV" rather than "Experimental" when
>>conversing with the tower.
I recall a blurb in one of the magazines a couple of years or so back that
it was exceptable by the FAA to use "Glasair" or "Lancair" instead of
"Experimental". Using "RV" some aurgue that it easy to confused with
"Army", and the prefered was "Van's 641DH".
If it was my choice it would be "RV641DH" on initial and "RV1DH" there
after. But then I am very use to "RV".
Have a great day!
Denny, RV-6 N641DH (Flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
> I have noticed on two different trips to Seattle that pilots up
there were
> using "Glasair" and "Lancair" and yes, "RV" rather than "Experimental"
when
> conversing with the tower. I suppose that "Experimental" isn't very
> descriptive and covers a wider gamut than "Cessna" (remember they also say
> "twin Cessna"). Is this becoming common practice elsewhere? Kevin
do
> not archive
My understanding is that initiating your call to any ATC with "experimental
999XX" was the proper way to comply with the FARs which require, and I
forget the language or the part, to make ATC aware that you are an
experimental (as opposed to a certified) craft.
Anyone know for sure? Das fed?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel & canopy skirt
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tube flaring w/ Rolo-flare tool |
In a message dated 1/23/00 10:12:38 PM Central Standard Time,
russnichols(at)msn.com writes:
<< the flare I
produce isn't "centered". It gives me a nice surface in the tube, but one
side of the tube doesn't flare out on the outside while the other has an
extreme flare. >>
Russ
just another thought....check to see if both of the "gripping" wheels are
indexed to the same size tubing. Sounds like the tubing and the cone are not
concentric.
Dale Ensing
6A Cary IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Attn RV-4 builders/flyers: Advice sought |
I am building an RV-4 and am at the stage where the manual says that I'm
supposed to start putting the skin on. Is there anything I should do now
that would be easier to do prior to skinning? Things you would do different
if you had it to do over again? Thanks in advance for your helpful advice!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: EARL FORTNER [SMTP:e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 1:07 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4, F-482
That is the rear seat reinforcement. Call Vans and tell them you
want
the service bulletin and kit for the rear seat reinforcement. They
will
send you everything you need at no charge.
Joe Wiza wrote:
>
>
> Friend of mine bilding an RV4 can't find any info on PN F-482 left
and
> right. Does anyone know where they go or better print #. TU
>
> planejoe(at)ewol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Capacitance Senders... |
The other day I read a web page that had detailed instructions on building
your own capacitance fuel sending units... Now I can't find it anywhere.
Anyone know where I can find this again?
Thanks...
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., wing kit should be here by now!
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6A F-670 Side Skin Rivits |
I think you got it Tommy.
Note:
From the 605 back I used 3" spacing on the 3-5's for the bottom skin to the
longeron, then 1" spacing on the top skin to the longeron. (the 1st hole
already drilled from the bottom skins) Watch your spacing where the bulkheads
line up. Make sense? If not, let me know. I'll clarify.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - fitting canopy
>I'm assuming (looking at the plans) they are used from the
>firewall back to the 605 bulkhead, then you use the 426 AD 3-5's from there
>back. Any advise is welcome!
>
>Tommy
>Ridgetop, TN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | RV 6A F-670 Side Skin Rivits |
Tom:
Geroge O in the vedio suggested flush 3's on 3/4 inch spacing to do a
better job of holding the skin down. Also, c/s the f601 before you nail
the side down. I have to un-rivet some of mine. Well first mistake.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
writes:
>
>
>Plan sheet #36 shows 426 AD 4-6 rivits along the main longeron @
>1-1/2"
>spacing to attach the F-670 side skin. Question is how far back do you
>use
>the 4-6 rivits? I'm assuming (looking at the plans) they are used from
>the
>firewall back to the 605 bulkhead, then you use the 426 AD 3-5's from
>there
>back. Any advise is welcome!
>
>Tommy
>Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attn RV-4 builders/flyers: Advice sought |
One item that saved me some grief while installing the rear fuse skins....the
bottoms (skins) are done first like you know. You clecko the longerron and
invert the fuse. so now the fuse. is right side up and begin fitting the top
skin...all's well so far. When you try to wrap the top skin down to the
longerron the cleckos are in the way. You don't want to remove em' because any
allignment or strength the fuse. has will be somewhat lost.......I ended up
using the hand squeezer and riveting the bottom skin to the longerron then
marking where the rivets were with a extended line, then installed the top skin
with my ratchet straps. The top skin layed down nicely and I transfered my
displaced lines and drilled & riveted the top skin on. Net result -twice as
many rivets on the longeron but no harm or no foul anywhere. It only took about
twenty minutes to hand squeeze the bottom skins on because the yoke fit over
the longerron.......I also tilted the passanger seat bulkhead back (at the top)
about two inches. The canopy still fits & there is more room to sneak in & out
of the rear seat area. The seat also tilts back and is a whole lot more
comfortable to be somewhat reclined. ....good luck. BTW the seat back-to-rear
bulkhead reinforcements took 30 minutes to install - not a big thing.....
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com on 01/24/2000 11:08:47 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Attn RV-4 builders/flyers: Advice sought
I am building an RV-4 and am at the stage where the manual says that I'm
supposed to start putting the skin on. Is there anything I should do now
that would be easier to do prior to skinning? Things you would do different
if you had it to do over again? Thanks in advance for your helpful advice!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: EARL FORTNER [SMTP:e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 1:07 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4, F-482
That is the rear seat reinforcement. Call Vans and tell them you
want
the service bulletin and kit for the rear seat reinforcement. They
will
send you everything you need at no charge.
Joe Wiza wrote:
>
>
> Friend of mine bilding an RV4 can't find any info on PN F-482 left
and
> right. Does anyone know where they go or better print #. TU
>
> planejoe(at)ewol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Senders... |
Bill:
Look in the Bunny Guide under Building the tanks. I believe there is an
article there written by Dick Martin, who is responsible for the development
of the Capacitance senders that Vans sells. Hope this helps
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
second wing---skeleton
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Date: Monday, January 24, 2000 11:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Capacitance Senders...
>
>The other day I read a web page that had detailed instructions on building
>your own capacitance fuel sending units... Now I can't find it anywhere.
>Anyone know where I can find this again?
>
>Thanks...
>
>-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A N912V res., wing kit should be here by now!
>http://vondane.tripod.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Flairing tool advice |
Hi:
One other thing that I have not seen mentioned is to make sure that you do
not have the tubing sticking up too far above the flaring tool. My first
attempt at tube flaring resulted in the kind of flair that you are
describing as a result.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
Second wing---skeleton
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harmon Rocket Information |
In a message dated 1/24/2000 9:04:16 AM Central Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
<< Guys, remember that Harmon Rocket IS NOT Team rocket. John Harmon
can be
reached via AOL & resides in California & the good folks at Team Rocket are
in
Texas & Florida.... Both Rocket companys offer a great toy but each have a
different approach to the building process & design. Kinda close & kinda not.
Both are great and it depends where the builder wants to position himself..
One
is the HR-II and the other is the F-1... >>
Dont forget that mark of Team Rocket can help you out with stuff for your
RV's and Harmon rockets as thats what he was building for people before he
and Scott formed Team Rocket. They have some great fairings for all 3
aircraft and they also have a slider canopy for the Harmon Rocket. But you
do have a good point they are seperate companies.
Chris Wilcox
F-1 Rocket Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal measuring balance |
Doug Gray wrote:
>
>
> Can someone tell me where I can find a picture of the 10:1 balance to
> weigh out the proseal?
http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2c.htm has some instructions, plus a
link to a photo.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
Talk about opening a can of worms here. Before I get into this I will admit
that there have been memos and letters wandering aroung the system that I am
fully unaware of and each region within the US may have slight alterations
to their specific regions.
In writing that we all have access to there are two examples. FAR
91.319(d(3) says that we have to advise "tower" of the experimental nature
of our aircraft when operating out of a field with an operating control
tower. To get to a bit more/better information we need to look at the
Airman's Information Manual (AIM) in paragraph 4-2-4 which covers aircraft
call signs. It says they we are supposed to fully identify our aircraft on
the intial call. ATC may then abbreviate the callsign. After that we may
use the abbreviatied format. It then goes on to state that "civil" aircraft
pilots should state the aircraft type, the manufacturer's name or model,
followed by the registration number. For example: "Tower, this is
Experimental Van's (or RV8) 108RS". The "N" is not needed unless the
aircraft is of foreign registry. So if you fly to Canada or Mexico remember
to add it on first contact.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: common radio freq.
>Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:01:09 -0800
>
>
> > I have noticed on two different trips to Seattle that pilots up
>there were
> > using "Glasair" and "Lancair" and yes, "RV" rather than "Experimental"
>when
> > conversing with the tower. I suppose that "Experimental" isn't very
> > descriptive and covers a wider gamut than "Cessna" (remember they also
>say
> > "twin Cessna"). Is this becoming common practice elsewhere? Kevin
>do
> > not archive
>
>
>My understanding is that initiating your call to any ATC with "experimental
>999XX" was the proper way to comply with the FARs which require, and I
>forget the language or the part, to make ATC aware that you are an
>experimental (as opposed to a certified) craft.
>
>Anyone know for sure? Das fed?
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, panel & canopy skirt
>www.pacifier.com/~randyl
>Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Senders... |
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> The other day I read a web page that had detailed instructions on building
> your own capacitance fuel sending units... Now I can't find it anywhere.
> Anyone know where I can find this again?
http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny2c.htm has my experiences, plus
information provided by (IIRC) Dick Martin on how he did them.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | common radio freq. |
I will probably make the initial call something like, "Podunk tower,
experimental 311SV, an RV-4, inbound with whiskey." (or gin, or vodka).
After that I will shorten it to just "RV 1SV."
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold [SMTP:randyl(at)pacifier.com]
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2000 8:01 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: common radio freq.
> I have noticed on two different trips to Seattle that
pilots up
there were
> using "Glasair" and "Lancair" and yes, "RV" rather than
"Experimental"
when
> conversing with the tower. I suppose that "Experimental" isn't
very
> descriptive and covers a wider gamut than "Cessna" (remember they
also say
> "twin Cessna"). Is this becoming common practice elsewhere?
Kevin
do
> not archive
My understanding is that initiating your call to any ATC with
"experimental
999XX" was the proper way to comply with the FARs which require, and
I
forget the language or the part, to make ATC aware that you are an
experimental (as opposed to a certified) craft.
Anyone know for sure? Das fed?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel & canopy skirt
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
I think your mechanic is talking thru his hat. If indeed the rubbers are shot
you could tell by the sag...at any rate the rubbers are very cheap (wag aero
among others) for the conical motor. Check your alt/gen mount(s) for broken or
misalligned mounts and tentioning arm, check torque on prop and be sure the
drive lugs are snug and that the prop tracks (blade track). A dial guage will
show out-o-round on the crank flange, try another prop shop with a technical who
knows what he is doing..........ALSO, when finished mark tthe prop to the crank
flange in case its yanked later & count all washers and index the spinner plates
so the WHOLE rotating mass can be reassembled and the ballance kept...
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com on 01/24/2000 02:50:35 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
> some of you guys seem to know a bunch about
> balancing, so i'm gonna ask
> about my cherokee. its a 62' 160 hp conical mount
> lycoming. i had it
> balanced by a local and he couldn't do it cause the
> "numbers" kept changing.
> its swinging a sensinich that was sent out to be
> staticly balanced. i seem
> to have a pretty good vibe but my mechanic insists
> the old conical mounts
> (system not rubber) were the culprit. the motor was
> just overhauled 60 hrs
> ago by pen yann.
>
> any ideas????
> capsteve(at)wzrd.com
> Steve DiNieri
>
If there is something wrong with an accessory or other
rotating part of the engine, the prop balance will
give a reading like you are having.
I have a CONICAL mount O-320 B2B that I REBUILT and
converted to CS operation. It now has over 3,600 TT,
430 TSOH (Rebuilt to NEW spec). I had the prop
balance in December. Readings were .4 before and .1
after. The readings at 1,500 and 2,400 were out of
phase when we started but everything was the same when
it was done.
The $100 for the prop balance is the best thing I ever
did for the airplane. It is like a NEW airplane. The
A&P that did the work use to do all the helicopters at
the helo shop that was at the airport.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
I , like most folks registered my last name in the aircraft type line of the
application and the official document from FAA says nothing about
Vans......this could lead to some more confusion if some builders used their
last names in the identification of their aircraft. Whats wrong announcing
experimental RV on the radio? I for one look exrta hard when I hear the word
experimental because I know most experimentals now a days are fast and small
and harder to see.......Any others think along these lines ??
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com on 01/24/2000 01:21:36 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: common radio freq.
Talk about opening a can of worms here. Before I get into this I will admit
that there have been memos and letters wandering aroung the system that I am
fully unaware of and each region within the US may have slight alterations
to their specific regions.
In writing that we all have access to there are two examples. FAR
91.319(d(3) says that we have to advise "tower" of the experimental nature
of our aircraft when operating out of a field with an operating control
tower. To get to a bit more/better information we need to look at the
Airman's Information Manual (AIM) in paragraph 4-2-4 which covers aircraft
call signs. It says they we are supposed to fully identify our aircraft on
the intial call. ATC may then abbreviate the callsign. After that we may
use the abbreviatied format. It then goes on to state that "civil" aircraft
pilots should state the aircraft type, the manufacturer's name or model,
followed by the registration number. For example: "Tower, this is
Experimental Van's (or RV8) 108RS". The "N" is not needed unless the
aircraft is of foreign registry. So if you fly to Canada or Mexico remember
to add it on first contact.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: common radio freq.
>Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:01:09 -0800
>
>
> > I have noticed on two different trips to Seattle that pilots up
>there were
> > using "Glasair" and "Lancair" and yes, "RV" rather than "Experimental"
>when
> > conversing with the tower. I suppose that "Experimental" isn't very
> > descriptive and covers a wider gamut than "Cessna" (remember they also
>say
> > "twin Cessna"). Is this becoming common practice elsewhere? Kevin
>do
> > not archive
>
>
>My understanding is that initiating your call to any ATC with "experimental
>999XX" was the proper way to comply with the FARs which require, and I
>forget the language or the part, to make ATC aware that you are an
>experimental (as opposed to a certified) craft.
>
>Anyone know for sure? Das fed?
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, panel & canopy skirt
>www.pacifier.com/~randyl
>Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Breaker/switch orientation |
If you are going to use breakers then the bus bar used to connect the breakers
does influence the way you mount the breakers i.e. in a straight line.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Initial Radio Call |
My procedure may not be correct or the best but I have
been using it for the last 1.5 years.
I start my first radio call as: (Tower, ATC facility,
or Airport name)"EXPERMENTAL RV 1 5 7 Gulf Sierra"
position, altitude, and (request / intention). After
the initial call, I respond "RV 7 Gulf Sierra".
Most (40%) of the SoCAL controllers respond NOVEMBER 7
Gulf Sierra, but (30%) EXPERMENTAL and (30%) RV are
used by the rest.
If asked for type, I use to respond RV-6/Gulf. I now
respond Romeo Victor Six / Gulf as one controller
listed me in the system as an RB-6. The next
controller questioned me on that. /Gulf my not be
correct as I do not have GPS approach capabilities.
(According to 1999 FAR / AIM 5-1-7 TBL 5-1-2)
I try to abide by the FARs as best I can. I feel that
I am doing that by my understanding of them. I am
sure that not everyone will agree.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
I have also seen a lot of the rubber mounts installed wrong. There is a
compression one that goes opposite on top than on bottom.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon(at)csc.com
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2000 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
I think your mechanic is talking thru his hat. If indeed the rubbers are
shot
you could tell by the sag...at any rate the rubbers are very cheap (wag aero
among others) for the conical motor. Check your alt/gen mount(s) for broken
or
misalligned mounts and tentioning arm, check torque on prop and be sure
the
drive lugs are snug and that the prop tracks (blade track). A dial guage
will
show out-o-round on the crank flange, try another prop shop with a technical
who
knows what he is doing..........ALSO, when finished mark tthe prop to the
crank
flange in case its yanked later & count all washers and index the spinner
plates
so the WHOLE rotating mass can be reassembled and the ballance kept...
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com on 01/24/2000 02:50:35 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
> some of you guys seem to know a bunch about
> balancing, so i'm gonna ask
> about my cherokee. its a 62' 160 hp conical mount
> lycoming. i had it
> balanced by a local and he couldn't do it cause the
> "numbers" kept changing.
> its swinging a sensinich that was sent out to be
> staticly balanced. i seem
> to have a pretty good vibe but my mechanic insists
> the old conical mounts
> (system not rubber) were the culprit. the motor was
> just overhauled 60 hrs
> ago by pen yann.
>
> any ideas????
> capsteve(at)wzrd.com
> Steve DiNieri
>
If there is something wrong with an accessory or other
rotating part of the engine, the prop balance will
give a reading like you are having.
I have a CONICAL mount O-320 B2B that I REBUILT and
converted to CS operation. It now has over 3,600 TT,
430 TSOH (Rebuilt to NEW spec). I had the prop
balance in December. Readings were .4 before and .1
after. The readings at 1,500 and 2,400 were out of
phase when we started but everything was the same when
it was done.
The $100 for the prop balance is the best thing I ever
did for the airplane. It is like a NEW airplane. The
A&P that did the work use to do all the helicopters at
the helo shop that was at the airport.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Levelors compatible with Quick Build kits? |
Anyone know of any wing levelors that are compatible with the quick build
kits?
TIA,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RV3 Performance Enhancements |
Has anyone made any minor airframe modifications to a stock RV3 like
additional fairings, gap seals, etc. (unless they are keeping them secret)
and noticed performance improvements.
My RV3 flies as advertised which is great. However, I see nifty wing root
fairings on some planes and Mooneys have nice tight aileron and elevator
seals. If anyone has tried a mod and found it of questionable benefit or
that it came with some undesirable side effect I'll know not to try it.
Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
I think the intent is to have you identify the type of aircraft for visual
acquisition / identification purposes, for both the tower as well as other
aircraft. If there were just two aircraft airborne in any given sector it
wouldn't matter, but to help identify issued traffic, it helps determine the
visual "shadow" of the aircraft. In fact, there was an accident in San Diego (I
think it was early 80's), when a PSA (I think, could have been Western) B-727
misidentified traffic that was issued by SoCal Approach. The Aircraft struck a
Cessna that was not acquired. Just saying "Experimental" doesn't necessarily
accomplish the goal, because it could be an RV, a Glass star, or Kitfox, or a
Velocity. I think you would agree that they all will look quite different.
Despite who built the plane, the "Planform" is an RV-6, RV-8, etc.
That's the way that I see it.
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Wings
Parker, CO
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
> Whats wrong announcing
> experimental RV on the radio? I for one look exrta hard when I hear the word
> experimental because I know most experimentals now a days are fast and small
> and harder to see.......Any others think along these lines ??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Anyone know of a good place to pick up a fuse block that will take auto fuses (
the knife variety ).
I have decided to forgo the circuit breaker idea and just put in auto fuses.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A QB ( wings )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing/Hinge Breakage |
Relative to this thread....... is there any data to support more or less hinge
damage on the rv-4 vs. the rv6 ?? The only reason I suggest this is the RV-4
cowl has tighter radius and less expance and hence less movement then the rv-6
(
theory at this point). For the same fiberglass thickness my rv-4 cowl seems to
behave differently than my hanger mates' rv-6 cowl in terms of vibration &
hinge breakage....Any real world testimonials??
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net on 01/22/2000 08:22:37 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
> Any further breakage, at least I will know it is not vibration.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
Further breakage is likely to be caused by vibration, but not due to
imbalances in the engine. The whole cowl can be thought of as a large
collection of springs, each with its own natural frequency. If one could
magically "see" inside the cowl when in flight, it might be surprising (or
scary). I don't know specifically where your cowl hinges are breaking, but
is it possible to fashion small brackets with rubber feet, which, when
mounted to the firewall, apply some pressure outward on the cowl right near
the hinge? Somehow, the natural frequency of the cowl in the area of
breaking hinges needs to be changed, as it might be the same frequency as
the prop pulses. Maybe glassing stiffener ribs in the cowl in the region
of interest would also help. Just thoughts on what might help, not claiming
they will work!
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Baffles/Cowl removal Aid |
The only recommendation that I have regarding fitting
baffles to the engine, is to make a cardboard template
where the baffle goes against the engine and then use
the template as a guide to cut the baffle. IMHO, this
will save time in the long run.
The cardboard ( folders from work - donated with out consent) trick worked for
me too. I used the folders taped to my bafffles and cut the folder material with
scissors. Worked great. When completed, I cut my metal baffles once.
For the cowl removal aid I made a craddle made up from two sissors jacks bolted
onto a metal milk crate which I bolted to a mechanics creeper. The two scissor
jacks have a short run of 1 x 6 pine with pipe insulation installed on
top.......I roll the "science fair project" up to the RV, tweek the two sissor
jacks up to catch the botttom cowl, pull my pins & then tweek the sissor jacks
down with my fingers.....when clear of everything I roll the craddle away. Works
great & the three other RV builders at my airport have just about wore the
wheels off my craddle rolling it from their hangers to my hanger. This makes the
hundred or so cowl fitting attempts and regular maintenance a one man affair.
Cost- about 5 dollars & a well stocked junk filled garage. The jacks were from
Subaru's
but the only thing that matters is the jacks be small and of the same geometery
and thread pitch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
>There is a legal requirement to identify yourself as experimental to ATC,
>at least in my operating limitations. My solution is to say experimental
>RV on initial call, then RV, but there are a lot of exceptions.
>
>I have been growled at for not identifying as an RV and have been growled
>at for doing it. My experience is that centers absolutely do not care.
>A lot of tower controllers, especially the sharper ones, do care. I was
>growled at at Lubbock the other day for saying RV and not specifying what
>kind. There are some sharp controllers, and incidently, RV builders
If the requirement is specified in the operating limitations for your
aircraft, then comply. If not, there is a requirement to identify the
experimental nature of the aircraft to TOWER on INITIAL contact. Beyond
that, call it whatever you like. I prefer "November", but "RV", or
"experimental", is just fine.
If calling center (ARTCC), we couldn't care less about the type, except
those of us who are into airplanes. I enjoy calling the overtaking traffic
to the malibu, mooney, and bonanza drivers. Yeah, just another $35000
homebuilt. So move over and get out of it's way.
If I got "growled" at by any controller for not being specific with the
type, I'd growl right back. Anyone familiar with the series knows there's
no significant difference in size, weight, or performance between the
types. Especially from a controller's perspective.
- Mike
(Full time controller for more than half my life...and still loving it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>
>Anyone know of a good place to pick up a fuse block that will take auto
>fuses (
>the knife variety ).
>
>I have decided to forgo the circuit breaker idea and just put in auto
>fuses.
>
>Thanks,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A QB ( wings )
>N89JA ( reserved )
Jim,
Good choice on using the fuse blocks. I put in two of them, each has slots
for up to ten circuits, and they use standard automotive blade fuses. I
found them at a local automotive electrical supply store for about $10 each.
They are very lightweight and I mounted them to the aft side of the front
baggage hold bulkhead. I cut an access hole in the bulkhead as a few other
RV8 builders have also done to access the blocks and the rear of the
instruments. A simple piece of alclad sheet is used as a cover and held in
place via nutplates.
I think the fuse blocks are made by Cole Hersey. So, you might call a local
auto parts supply store and just ask if they carry electrical parts from
this company. They also make all kinds of solenoids for use as master and
starter contactors.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
fast-ons, fuseblocks and flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
"..know of a good place to pick up a fuse block that will take auto
fuses.."
Try "Electric Bob's AeroElectric Connection
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/.
Also West Marine and BoatsUS have the 4 and 6 fuse blocks. Bob has those
plus 10 and 20 fuse blocks and lots of other stuff.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, doing the panel while its cold.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Jim,
Try the aeroelectric connection at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Lots of goodies you'll need.
Laird RV-6 22923 (with fuses)
SoCal
Anyone know of a good place to pick up a fuse block that will take auto fuses (
the knife variety ).
I have decided to forgo the circuit breaker idea and just put in auto fuses.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>>I have decided to forgo the circuit breaker idea and just put in auto
>>fuses.
>
>I think the fuse blocks are made by Cole Hersey. So, you might call a local
>auto parts supply store and just ask if they carry electrical parts from
>this company. They also make all kinds of solenoids for use as master and
>starter contactors.
They are also offered in our website catalog at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Click on any item on the front page to link to
the description and illustrations.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Remember that some of these chadwicks are old, susceptable to problems. As a
rule, the stronger the vibe the easier to get "good numbers". On old
balancers, the reflector would not be steady when you got below .1 ips or
so. My 71 Cherokee I rebuilt felt good. I put the chadwick on and it was .8
ips! (real bad). @ adjustments and it went to .06. It's amazing how much
quieter it got! If your mounts are not bad the reason sure isn't the design.
The newer vibration equipment is very accurate and the tech can say not
necessary cause you are .03 ( or whatever ) not that mounts design prevents
balance.
-----Original Message-----
From: capsteve(at)wzrd.com <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>some of you guys seem to know a bunch about balancing, so i'm gonna ask
>about my cherokee. its a 62' 160 hp conical mount lycoming. i had it
>balanced by a local and he couldn't do it cause the "numbers" kept
changing.
>its swinging a sensinich that was sent out to be staticly balanced. i seem
>to have a pretty good vibe but my mechanic insists the old conical mounts
>(system not rubber) were the culprit. the motor was just overhauled 60 hrs
>ago by pen yann.
>
>any ideas????
>capsteve(at)wzrd.com
>Steve DiNieri
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kevin Horton Updates |
Kevin:
Thank you so much for taking the time to continually give updates on your
construction. I trail you in your progress by mere days (putting 8A fuselage
in the jig) and have used your comments to help in my construction.
I love this list !!!
Len
RV-8A
Putting fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
For several months, I've been under the impression that the proper language for
contacting ATC would be, for example,
"Los Angeles Center, RV6 12345 with you eight thousand level."
However, when contacting a control tower, one is required to add "experimental,"
for example,
"Santa Monica Tower, RV6 12345 experimental, inbound at the Palisades with
information delta."
The "RV6" type designation applies to both the RV-6 and the RV-6A. The
experimental designation needs to be spoken only once, on initial contact with
the control tower. No manufacturer's name is required.
> My understanding is that initiating your call to any ATC with "experimental
> 999XX" was the proper way to comply with the FARs which require, and I
> forget the language or the part, to make ATC aware that you are an
> experimental (as opposed to a certified) craft.
>
> Anyone know for sure? Das fed?
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, panel & canopy skirt
> www.pacifier.com/~randyl
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Senders... |
jim weir has it on his page
WWW.RST-ENGR.COM
Robert Burns
RV-4 s/n 3521 N82RB
-->
>The other day I read a web page that had detailed instructions on building
>your own capacitance fuel sending units... Now I can't find it anywhere.
>Anyone know where I can find this again?
>
>Thanks...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
Michael Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Talk about opening a can of worms here. Before I get into this I will admit
> that there have been memos and letters wandering aroung the system that I am
> fully unaware of and each region within the US may have slight alterations
> to their specific regions.
> In writing that we all have access to there are two examples. FAR
> 91.319(d(3) says that we have to advise "tower" of the experimental nature
> of our aircraft when operating out of a field with an operating control
> tower. To get to a bit more/better information we need to look at the
snips
Mike, & other feds,
In this area (Southeast), on 1st call to Approach or Tower the
controller will ask for 'class' of experimental. The class tells the
controller the cruise speed range of the a/c, with rv's being class B.
Controllers are not very consistent with this, but a friend who's a
controller has told me it's 'official.' Is this not a national
practice?
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GPS and Map Compatibility |
Listers,
I need some advice about matching a IImorrow (UPS Aviation Technologies)
SL-60 GPS/Com with a Skyforce Tracker moving map. I like the features of
the SL-60 GPS/Com, especially nominating com frequencies on your route, but
the Apollo 360 Map display from IImorrow is primitive compared to the detail
available with the Skyforce Tracker moving map. Skyforce promotional
material says that the Tracker maps are designed to interface with existing
Loran and GPS receivers.
I need to finalize my panel now. Anyone know if this will work well or
if it will be a mistake because the two units won't speak the same language
well enough to cooperate with each other? I'm ignorant of whether their are
industry standards which make this as simple and viable as using a brand A
stereo receiver with brand B speakers or not. I don't want to tackle making
this work if it won't be a nice setup in the end.
I'm pretty good at following directions and hooking wires up but I don't
understand much about how these things work. I really hope this can work.
Is this a doable idea that will work properly or an experiment that will
likely not work very well?
All responses appreciated.
Thanks,
Dale Wotring
RV-6A working on panel (and still don't have a final equipment list)
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS and Map Compatibility |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I think the tracker is a little bulky(heard good things about it though) and
there have been several post on combining GPSs with Palm Pilots and CE
machines. This is the scenario I want to pursue.
I like the beautiful CE displays.
The handhelds have custom display software - so you know they will be
upgrading and adding neat features.
The Palm units have potential too.
I like the UPS SL-60 too.
I have been flying with a Lowrance 100 - the less expensive unit - it is
fantastic!
My .02 worth.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: Gusndale(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS and Map Compatibility
>Date: Mon, Jan 24, 2000, 9:12 PM
>
> I need some advice about matching a IImorrow (UPS Aviation Technologies)
> SL-60 GPS/Com with a Skyforce Tracker moving map. I like the features of
> the SL-60 GPS/Com, especially nominating com frequencies on your route, but
> the Apollo 360 Map display from IImorrow is primitive compared to the detail
> available with the Skyforce Tracker moving map. Skyforce promotional
> material says that the Tracker maps are designed to interface with existing
> Loran and GPS receivers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
>
>Bob,
>
>Whats the status of Revision-9? When do you think they might be ready to
ship? Any price
>changes?
Looking to get it to printers in about two weeks. Should have some
books by mid Feb.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I went to the MSP boat show Sunday. The boat gadget peddlers were selling
Garmin's latest and greatest, the "e-map". It is a little smaller than a
palm pilot with a big screen and has 2 AA batteries and is supposed to last
22 hrs on them. It has some internal memory, looks like alot, plus an 8 to
16 mb removable cartridge.
Has anyone seen an aviation version or aviation cartridge? Considering the
Lowrance Airmap 100 only has 1 mb onboard, imagine what we can do with 16
meg!!!!!!! It truly will be a pocket sectional for the entire US!!!!!!!!
They were selling these for $199 at the boat show plus $40 for a blank 8 mb
cartridge
this removable cartridge should allow for 3rd party vendors to sell aviation
software at some bargain prices too!!!!!!!!!
Man I love capitalism!!!!!
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
www.petroblend.com/dougr
dougr(at)petroblend.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I will be in Orlando for the big golf show from Mon Jan 31st evening until
Tuesday am Feb.8th.....I will have a rental car and am willing to drive to
see any projects in the Orlando area or out a ways..
I have an 8QB underway so seeing any other in progress 8's or even one flying
would be great. Would love to catch a ride in a 6 or 4 if anyone would let
me buy the gas as well.
Thanks in advance....all that golf for 8 days is too much and it has been a
little too cold to fly here in Northern Mich.
Doug Bell
231-398-9106 Home
231-723-8874 Work
8QB, Wings done, back to the fuse, waiting for finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arzflyer(at)aol.com |
arzflyer(at)aol.com subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Levelors compatible with Quick Build kits? |
I installed the Navaid under the right seat. Have not flown yet, but was easy
to install and think it will work fine.
Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved) almost there in the sky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS and Map Compatibility |
Dale,
We liked the SL-60 and looked at the 360, but ultimately decided to go with
the SL-40 and mount a Garmin 195 on a mount below our horizon. We made this
decision based on the fact that we expect many changes to take place in the
next year or two (from a tachnology & cost perspective).
The result of this decision is that we can use the "195" as a moving map as
well as an HSI, in a VFR config. Within a couple a years we'll have the
"195" as a backup GPS to what ever we install as a full IFR capable GPS and
install an electric DG.
These are difficult decisions but it bacame easier when we decided to plan
on the basis of where we wanted to be 2-3 years from now, while having a
flying VFR RV-8A soon.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
>From: Gusndale(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS and Map Compatibility
>Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 22:12:44 EST
>
>
>Listers,
>
January 19, 2000 - January 25, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hu