RV-Archive.digest.vol-hv
January 25, 2000 - January 30, 2000
> I need some advice about matching a IImorrow (UPS Aviation
>Technologies)
>SL-60 GPS/Com with a Skyforce Tracker moving map. I like the features of
>the SL-60 GPS/Com, especially nominating com frequencies on your route, but
>the Apollo 360 Map display from IImorrow is primitive compared to the
>detail
>available with the Skyforce Tracker moving map. Skyforce promotional
>material says that the Tracker maps are designed to interface with existing
>Loran and GPS receivers.
>
> I need to finalize my panel now. Anyone know if this will work well
>or
>if it will be a mistake because the two units won't speak the same language
>well enough to cooperate with each other? I'm ignorant of whether their
>are
>industry standards which make this as simple and viable as using a brand A
>stereo receiver with brand B speakers or not. I don't want to tackle
>making
>this work if it won't be a nice setup in the end.
>
> I'm pretty good at following directions and hooking wires up but I
>don't
>understand much about how these things work. I really hope this can work.
>Is this a doable idea that will work properly or an experiment that will
>likely not work very well?
>
> All responses appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Dale Wotring
>RV-6A working on panel (and still don't have a final equipment list)
>Vancouver, WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: common radio freq. |
>In this area (Southeast), on 1st call to Approach or Tower the
>controller will ask for 'class' of experimental. The class tells the
>controller the cruise speed range of the a/c, with rv's being class B.
>Controllers are not very consistent with this, but a friend who's a
>controller has told me it's 'official.' Is this not a national
>practice?
Your friend is correct, it is 'official'. Asking the 'class' of
experimental is not national practice, but then nothing is in the FAA.
The various regions within the FAA work from the same basic rulebook, but
each region likes validate its uniqueness by making up local supplements.
I suspect the sum of the local supplements from all the regions probably
accounts for more paper than the national orders they supplement. Even
when the same basic order is used, each region develops a local
interpretation of how that order should be applied.
You've probably heard of the different experiences homebuilders have had
getting their aircraft certified from region to region. It works the same
way in air traffic. We are just barely one FAA; we are not standardized.
In any case, when calling for VFR flight following you can call your type
whatever you like to call it. If the controller is unfamiliar with the
performance characteristics of that type, he may ask your cruise speed or
for other details, or may ask the speed class (HXA, HXB, HXC). When filing
IFR, use the correct identifier, which will be HXB for any of the RVs (100
to 200 kts cruise). You can put experimental, or RV-(whatever), or both in
remarks if you like.
I know using the HXA/B/C for the type doesn't sit well with a lot of
homebuilders, but the fact is that there isn't enough room in the book for
each of us to have a unique type identifier. You can't have a Vans RV
unless you bought one they built at Vans - and at least for now even then
it would be an experimental (HXB). Regardless of where you bought the
parts, you are the manufacturer of your aircraft and it is one of a kind -
and experimental.
As a controller, HXB as a type and RV-3/4/6/8/9 in remarks tells me
everything I could ever need to know to work your flight. I might ask for
more details though, if I'm not busy, just 'cause I'm nosey.
- Mike
RV-6A(to fuselage)/Grumpy old controller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Here is some info on the emap:
http://www.garmin.com/eMap.html
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., wink kit maybe this week?
http://vondane.tripod.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Sent: January 24, 2000 9:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin e-map
I went to the MSP boat show Sunday. The boat gadget peddlers were selling
Garmin's latest and greatest, the "e-map".......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Brian Denk,
Saw your post on the fuse block install. Talk me through your ideas on
the location as to accessibility while in flight. I have heard "elec.
Bob's" ideas and am still deciding on my location for the two blocks I
got from B&C. Am leaning toward building a swing down panel mounted
vertically below the right console (F-865).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Joe Waltz wrote:
>
>
> Brian Denk,
>
> Saw your post on the fuse block install. Talk me through your ideas on
> the location as to accessibility while in flight. I have heard "elec.
> Bob's" ideas and am still deciding on my location for the two blocks I
> got from B&C. Am leaning toward building a swing down panel mounted
> vertically below the right console (F-865).
Okay, I'm going to play the part of troll here.
Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, fuses tucked behind panel)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>Brian Denk,
>
>Saw your post on the fuse block install. Talk me through your ideas on
>the location as to accessibility while in flight. I have heard "elec.
>Bob's" ideas and am still deciding on my location for the two blocks I
>got from B&C. Am leaning toward building a swing down panel mounted
>vertically below the right console (F-865).
>
Joe,
My fuse blocks are not accessible during flight, nor are they meant to be.
The time for troubleshooting an electrical problem is while ON THE GROUND,
not while flying the airplane. I do not operate my airplane in any
conditions where an electrical problem, up to and including total failure,
will compromise safety of flight. (Day VFR)
Placing the fuse blocks by the 865 sounds like a great location, if they
will fit there. I wanted to keep the wiring to the panel stuff as short as
practical, so that's why I put the blocks where I did. Like anything of
this nature, if it's buried away out of reach, it will fail. On the other
hand, if it's made to be easily accessed, you'll never have a problem with
it. Such is life!
Have fun with your decision. Place them where they best suit your needs.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Ever have a fuse blow at night? I have...and it was the fuse to the panel
lights in a Cherokee 235...
Bob Japundza
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc(at)hiwaay.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
Okay, I'm going to play the part of troll here.
Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, fuses tucked behind panel)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: GPS and Map Compatibility |
Dale,
No answers here, just options.
How about the MX20 from UPS? More pricey (~$5,000) than the Syforce but
totally compatable with some neat features not found on the Skyforce,
especially if linked with the SL 70 transponder. Check out the UPS
website:
www.upsat.com
How about a dual GPS setup? Use the SL60 by itself and the Skyforce
version with the built in GPS. Again more pricey but compatability
insured plus redundancy.
Talked with the UPS folks regaurding IFR capabilities and WAAS the other
day. Today, if you want a legal IFR panel you need VOR's. After WAAS
you won't. When will WAAS be up and running? The FAA has had a hard
time getting it fully functional but our present adminstrator has
recently promised 09/00. In order to be IFR after that (GPS only) you
will need a WAAS compatable IFR GPS that is TSO'd for GPS approaches
(C129 A1A).
The good news? With a WAAS compat. GPS and peripherals (CDI/GS) you
will have Cat 1 ILS type capability wherever the feds construct an
approach; potentially everywhere. Of course this takes time to certify
all the possible approaches.
My desires: GPS only IFR capability.
My solution: UPS GX65 now. This unit isn't C129A1A now (it's C129A2
for enroute and terminal IFR ops) so VFR only. UPS is developing their
new WAAS GPS engine and should be able to upgrade all of the GX series
GPS's but not the SL line. When able, I'll return the GX65 for the
upgrade and get IFR capability. UPS said that the upgrade for the GX60
& GX65 will not be much different in cost so since I don't have panel
mounted VOR's (not IFR capable) the GX60 (approach certified) would be
wasted money since it will need the upgrade too. I'm leaving room for
the required CDI but will hold off till needed.
Another plus for UPS. They deal with Van so you can purchase through
him. Van's doesn't stock so lead time could be awhile. Garmin won't
deal with Van.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal measuring balance |
Here is a simplistic way.
Get a stick between 12 and 20 inches long. Tape, nail or glue a 3 inch
pad on each end. Get eleven bolts or nuts or some such of that weigh the
same. Put ten on one pad and the last one on the other pad. Now balance
the stick on something so that it sits level with the world. Many ways to
do this.
Now take the bolts or nuts off the pads. Replace the one bolt with the
black stuff and the ten bolts with the white stuff. 10:1
Me??? I use a very accurate balance beam at the office that I mix ink on.
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks, CA
>>Can someone tell me where I can find a picture of the 10:1 balance to
>>weigh out the proseal?
>>
>>Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Listers,
Since we're on the topic, are there any manufacturers producing fuseblocks
similar to what Electric Bob sells that use the newer "mini" fuses, which
are about half the size of the regular blade-type fuses? I
Bob Japundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ersandall(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 01/24/00 |
Please remove my name from ALL lists.
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone have team rocket web or e-mail address.
Thanks
Stan Mehrhoff, N188sm
RV-8, mounting engine, missouri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Strobe Power Supplies... |
I found this Able power supply for $149... What do you all think?
http://store.yahoo.com/swps/abshowme21st.html
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings, getting the shakes...
http://vondane.tripod.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)atmel.com]
Sent: January 25, 2000 9:15 AM
Subject: Strobe Power Supplies...
Has anyone found a single power supply to power two Whelen wingtip strobes
that doesn't cost $350?
I have been looking, and for aviation strobes, the PS's are rated with
joules, and the automotive are rated in watts... What's the correlation?
can I use an automotive PS?
Thanks for the help...
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., wing kit maybe this week? I'm having withdrawals...
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe Power Supplies... |
Has anyone found a single power supply to power two Whelen wingtip strobes
that doesn't cost $350?
I have been looking, and for aviation strobes, the PS's are rated with
joules, and the automotive are rated in watts... What's the correlation?
can I use an automotive PS?
Thanks for the help...
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., wing kit maybe this week? I'm having withdrawals...
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Bob asked:
>Ever have a fuse blow at night?
In an airplane, no. A few times in cars but the maintenance was pathetic
in each case.
Were you able to change yours in flight without rolling inverted?
hal :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
I still don't see why people don't choose the solidstate protection devices
over fuses and circuit breakers for most of their circuits.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Waltz <TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>Brian Denk,
>
>Saw your post on the fuse block install. Talk me through your ideas on
>the location as to accessibility while in flight. I have heard "elec.
>Bob's" ideas and am still deciding on my location for the two blocks I
>got from B&C. Am leaning toward building a swing down panel mounted
>vertically below the right console (F-865).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/25/2000 10:14:20 AM Central Standard Time, N188sm(at)cs.com
writes:
<<
Does anyone have team rocket web or e-mail address.
Thanks
Stan Mehrhoff, N188sm
RV-8, mounting engine, missouri
>>
www.teamrocketaircraft.com
mark Fredricks mlfred(at)aol.com
Scott Brown F1rocket(at)aol.com
I would be glad to answer questions from a builders point of few as i bought
their first kit.
Chris WIlcox
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Sam -
This is easy - After the shorted circuit in the stereo blows the
correct sized fuse in flight. You can replace it with the next, and then
next higher rated fuses. The subsequent fire keeps you occupied so
you no longer worry about the lack of music...
Circuit Breakers come with this feature as a built-in.
Jeff.
On Tue, 25 Jan 2000, Sam Buchanan wrote:
> Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, fuses tucked behind panel)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Jim:
Goto www.aeroelectric.com. I would buy the $35.00 book, then I think Bob
sells everthing you will need.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
>
>
>Anyone know of a good place to pick up a fuse block that will take
>auto fuses (
>the knife variety ).
>
>I have decided to forgo the circuit breaker idea and just put in auto
>fuses.
>
>Thanks,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A QB ( wings )
>N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
So that is why there is mandatory flash light for night flying.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Japundza, Bob <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>Ever have a fuse blow at night? I have...and it was the fuse to the panel
>lights in a Cherokee 235...
>
>Bob Japundza
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc(at)hiwaay.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:36 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>
>Okay, I'm going to play the part of troll here.
>
>Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
>
>Sam Buchanan (RV-6, fuses tucked behind panel)
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Buchanan a troll? Sam, your question is te thread I want to run.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Lane" <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM> |
| Subject: | parker 37 degree rolo-flair question |
my new flairing tool from Avery does the same thing mentioned by russ nichols,
though maybe not as severe. would any of you owning this tool look through the
hole formed by the tool dies that hold the tubing in place (with the tool closed),
up at the flairing point and see if you notice a significant offset of the
center of the tip of the flairing point? mine has a noticable offset that seems
to be causing the flair to be out-of round. Is this normal? Thanks, Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
I had smoke from the panel dimmer and had to shut off the panel lights and
use a flash light as a student. I was also cleared to land and then the
controller made me do a 360 on final for spacing because an airliner got to
the field before me.
If I had a circuit breaker on that old 63 Skyhawk, it would have popped
again with more smoke. Some thing I didn't need, more smoke!
As Bob Nuckols says, fly the plane, trouble shoot on the ground.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Japundza, Bob <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>Ever have a fuse blow at night? I have...and it was the fuse to the panel
>lights in a Cherokee 235...
>
>Bob Japundza
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc(at)hiwaay.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:36 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>
>Okay, I'm going to play the part of troll here.
>
>Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
>
>Sam Buchanan (RV-6, fuses tucked behind panel)
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
I just found this site today: http://www.kestrobes.com/
They sell strobes, power supplies, and a thingy called a Hot Box (a complete
electrical system intended for use with an electric starter equipped
engine).
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/25/00 11:51:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, N188sm(at)cs.com
writes:
<<
Does anyone have team rocket web or e-mail address.
Thanks
Stan Mehrhoff, N188sm
RV-8, mounting engine, missouri >>
Website is www.teamrocketaircraft.com or you can email me at F1Rocket(at)aol.com.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Good point Hal...
>>Ever have a fuse blow at night?
>In an airplane, no. A few times in cars but the maintenance was pathetic
>in each case.
>Were you able to change yours in flight without rolling inverted?
Ever have a fire in the cockpit?
The last two RV's I got to see up close had NO fire extinguishers!!!
I have redundancy on all my key instruments planned. I also have a back up
battery planned for all critical systems.
Best way to avoid a disaster is to plan on having one :-)
- Jim
RV-8A QB ( wings )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
This is another advantage of the solidstate protection devices. They won't
reset unless the short is removed so you don't have to worry about welded
contacts(circuit breaker) or inflight fires from putting in a fuse that is
over rated by accident. Removing the short and cycle the power(switch off)
is all you have to do. So, if a filement on a lamp momentarily burnes out
and goes into a high enough current to blow the fuse and then opens, the
solidstate device can be reset by turning the panel lights switch off then
back on and it's reset. You don't have to fumble in the dark for a circuit
breaker or try to find a fuse....
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>
>Sam -
>
>This is easy - After the shorted circuit in the stereo blows the
>correct sized fuse in flight. You can replace it with the next, and then
>next higher rated fuses. The subsequent fire keeps you occupied so
>you no longer worry about the lack of music...
>
>Circuit Breakers come with this feature as a built-in.
>
>Jeff.
>
>On Tue, 25 Jan 2000, Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>> Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
>>
>> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, fuses tucked behind panel)
>> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
I have the Gall's Wig-Wag flasher for my two wing tip lights. I need help
in wiring. The schematic shows one wire to each light. OK. The power and
Grd wire. OK. Then there are two wires that go to the "wiring harness" of
the auto this thing is supposed to be installed in. Do I need these two
wires connected, and if so, where do they go?
Thanks,
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 N136RC 2.3 hrs
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing walk doubler-help-rv6 |
It butts up to the aft spar flange in my installation. Seemed to work that
way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: parker 37 degree rolo-flair question |
It is designed that way to wipe a flare as it rotates instead of pushing
straight down.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Lane <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 12:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: parker 37 degree rolo-flair question
>
>my new flairing tool from Avery does the same thing mentioned by russ
nichols, though maybe not as severe. would any of you owning this tool look
through the hole formed by the tool dies that hold the tubing in place (with
the tool closed), up at the flairing point and see if you notice a
significant offset of the center of the tip of the flairing point? mine has
a noticable offset that seems to be causing the flair to be out-of round. Is
this normal? Thanks, Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: parker 37 degree rolo-flair question |
My flairing tool from Avery also displays the offset. I have always assumed
it was part of the design. The tool produces excellent flairs, limited only
by my abilities.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Lane <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 11:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: parker 37 degree rolo-flair question
>
>my new flairing tool from Avery does the same thing mentioned by russ
nichols, though maybe not as severe. would any of you owning this tool look
through the hole formed by the tool dies that hold the tubing in place (with
the tool closed), up at the flairing point and see if you notice a
significant offset of the center of the tip of the flairing point? mine has
a noticable offset that seems to be causing the flair to be out-of round. Is
this normal? Thanks, Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donmack(at)flash.net |
| Subject: | Looking for RV-8 under construction |
I have a friend who is itching to build an 8A. If there is anyone in the Chicagoland
area who is building an 8/8a and wouldn't mind a visit, please contact me
directly, so I can push him over the edge.
Don Mack
RV-6A Finishing(Canopy)
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: parker 37 degree rolo-flair question |
Jim,
On the roto-flair the point is supposed to float somewhat in order to find
the center of the tube as it tightens. It sounds like yours may be bound
up.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB Panel is DONE!!! Finally
>From: "Jim Lane" <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: parker 37 degree rolo-flair question
>Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 10:59:04 -0600
>
>
>my new flairing tool from Avery does the same thing mentioned by russ
>nichols, though maybe not as severe. would any of you owning this tool look
>through the hole formed by the tool dies that hold the tubing in place
>(with the tool closed), up at the flairing point and see if you notice a
>significant offset of the center of the tip of the flairing point? mine has
>a noticable offset that seems to be causing the flair to be out-of round.
>Is this normal? Thanks, Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
I used a wiring kit for a kit car last year from a company called Painless
Wiring. It had an ATC type fuse box with all connections in the box pre wired
for automotive applications. You may be able to get the box from them and
make your own connections. I found a race car switch/fuse panel that I
considered using in my Kitfox but decided on a Hot Box that I got from
Skystar instead. I have seen it in Aircraft Spruce or Lockwood's catalog. It
also uses automotive (ATC) fuses but may not have the capabilities for the
more complex RV electrical system. It works fine in my Night/VFR Kitfox.
Even thought I can reach it while flying I don't think I would attempt to
change one in flight.
Larry Gagnon
Kitfox Model IV/912 N102LG
RV-6 Wings N6LG (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: New web site..(strobes) |
Good tip Bill...thx
I sent an e-mail to this company and asked for some technical info regarding
output in joules or watts. I got a reply within a very short time so I am
pasting it here for all to view.
Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont.
RV-8 wing waiting
=================snip=============
In a message dated 1/25/00 1:40:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
robbax(at)sympatico.ca writes:
<< I'd like to compare apples to apples (ie: whelan and or aeroflash). Your
prices are certainly very good. >>
Hi Rob,
Thanks for the inquiry.
When comparing the strobes you mentioned there are of course different
models but generally our drivers produce a flash that is as bright as the GA
strobes. I have an Aeroflash dual unit that I purchased so that I could
compare. Our Dual drivers weigh 10 ounces, draw 2 Amps of power @ 14 volts,
and flash at about 14 Joules. This Aeroflash driver weighs 21.5 ounces,
draws 4 Amps of power, and has an energy of 11.6 Joules.
Having said that, I still think the best way to see if you like a
product
is to try it. That is why I offer a satisfaction or your money back policy.
You buy it and if you aren't satisfied send it back and we will refund your
money.
If you checked out our website you can see we do not offer Red & Green
Nav lights, but our drivers will fire the strobe bulbs on all other brands
of
strobe heads.
I hope this answers your questions, if not please feel free to contact
me.
Dick Kuntzleman, President
Kuntzleman Electronics, Inc
www.KEstrobes.com
============================unsnip============================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 11:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: New web site...
>
> I just found this site today: http://www.kestrobes.com/
>
> They sell strobes, power supplies, and a thingy called a Hot Box (a
complete
> electrical system intended for use with an electric starter equipped
> engine).
>
> -Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | radio freq/flight plans/call signs |
I have been having an off-list discussion with David Faile( mcfii, tech
counselor, us flight instr. of the year...). He strongly recommends we NOT
use designated a/c mfg freqs. for air to air conversations. 122.75 is set
aside for this and 122.85 for private airports. He also pointed out that
"experimental" is only required on initial contact with the tower and can
be dropped afterwards for the last three (if you have enough)
digits/letters of your call sign. At non-towered airports he suggests
using a/c description(experimental,low wing, white) rather than call signs.
Flight plans use a/c codes:
These are the homebuilt types. When ATC asks what type?
These are the designations for homebuilts
HXA Speed 100 Knots or less
HXB Speed over 100 Knots but less than 200 Knots
HXC Speed 200 knots and higher
Most RV's would be Hotel Xray Bravo.
equipment codes follow, such as /U ( x/p mode C, no DME or VOR).
I thought listers might have forgotten some of this as I have. Kevin do
not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | elevator horns bolt |
If you're willing to pay up front, I'd suggest getting the bulk assortments
of bolts, nuts and washers from your favorite mail order house. I used A/C
Spruce but I'm sure a dozen folks will tell you a dozen different places
that are absolutely the cheapest. Every year at SnF & Osh I'd pick up small
packs of hardware, but still always seemed to be missing something. Oh yeah,
it gets worse as you progress. This is one place where you can buy peace of
mind. YMMV.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) 90%done, 90% to go
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
>
> Listers
> The 1/4" AN4-12A bolt that ties both elevator horns through the bearing is
> too short. Looks like I will require an AN4-14A to get the required thread
> clearances. Not a huge deal except I don't have one and must order one and
> wait 3 or 4 days.
> Just wondering if others encountered this. Is this similar to all the
> callouts that suggests an AD426 3 rivet when 3.5's seem to be the
> standard.
> The plans allow for up to 3 AN960-416 washers per side to fill any gap.
> Looks like I will need to use 2 per side (one is also called for
> on the nut
> end of the bolt). My "bag of surprises" hardware kit from Van
> gave me only 2
> AN960-416 (1/4" washers). I would pay more money to have all the required
> hardware in my kit. I have to order AN hardware by phone or
> e-mail as I have
> no local supply and then wait for "widgets".
> I'm waiting for wings (shipping Jan 31) and I'm just about out of
> things to
> do so I'm sniveling. I think I'll go fly the Aerobat because it will
> actually climb at 500 fpm in the dead of winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Thanks to whomever it was who suggested a few days ago on the list to use
blobs of clay to determine where to make the final 1/2" trim on the baffles
- it worked well.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
-------------original message------------
I have the Gall's Wig-Wag flasher for my two wing tip lights. I need help
in wiring. The schematic shows one wire to each light. OK. The power and
Grd wire. OK. Then there are two wires that go to the "wiring harness" of
the auto this thing is supposed to be installed in. Do I need these two
wires connected, and if so, where do they go?
---------------snipped---------------
If you have the FS-025, the wiring diagram indicates that the unit goes
between the headlight power switch and the headlights. Just connect those 2
wires to power and it will wig and wag the power between the 2 lights. I
removed the circuit board from the box it came in that includes a fuse and
switch, since I have my own fuse and switch on the inst. panel.
Dave Biddle
RV6A - finishing canopy, instrument panel stuff
Phoenix AZ.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal measuring balance |
>>Can someone tell me where I can find a picture of the 10:1 balance to
> >>weigh out the proseal?
> >>
> >>Doug Gray
HI Doug
Just my two cents worth on the subject.
Here is what I did but don't tell every one Ha!ha!
I mixed the whole content of both cans of pro seal, removed what I needed
and put the rest in the ''freezer''. You can keep it there for about 4 weeks
and it will not set on you. Just take what you need at a time out of the can
and let it sit where it's warm for 3 to 4 minutes and use as per normal.
Hope this helps.
Alain Nantel(at)hotmail.com
RV-6 Still installing systems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
Does anyone have a template available for the cutouts around the valve
covers for a 200hp
IO-360 angle valve engine? I have a fiberglass plenum chamber from Sam James
that I only want
to cut once!
Ed Cole
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | YOU ARE MY FRIEND AND I AM HONORED! |
I guess this is RV related as you .......................
YOU ARE MY FRIEND AND I AM HONORED!
What a great way to teach a lesson! Make sure everyone reads to the
bottom.
For my friends ...
There once was a little boy who had a bad temper. His father gave him
a bag of nails and told him that every time he lost his temper, he
must hammer a nail into the back of the fence.
The first day the boy had driven 37 nails into the fence. Over the
next few weeks, as he learned to control his anger, the number of
nails hammered daily gradually dwindled down.
He discovered it was easier to hold his temper than to drive those
nails into the fence.... Finally the day came when the boy didn't
lose his temper at all. He told his father about it and the father
suggested that the boy now pull out one nail for each day that he was
able to hold his temper. The days passed and the young boy was
finally able to tell his father that all the nails were gone.
The father took his son by the hand and led him to the fence. He
said, "You have done well, my son, but look at the holes in the
fence. The fence will never be the same. When you say things in
anger, they leave a scar just like this one. You can put a
knife in a man and draw it out.
It won't matter how many times you say I'm sorry, the wound is still
there." A verbal wound is as bad as a physical one. Friends are a
very rare jewel indeed. They make you smile and encourage you to
succeed. They lend an ear, they share words of praise and they always
want to open their hearts to us.
It's National Friendship Week. Show your friends how much you care.
Send this to everyone you consider a FRIEND, even if it means sending
it back to the person who sent it to you. If it comes back to you,
then you'll know you have a circle of friends.
YOU ARE MY FRIEND AND I AM HONORED!
Now send this to every friend you have!! And to your family. This
was sent to me by a friend, and is now passed on to YOU
Please forgive me if I have ever left a hole in your fence.
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
blow at night, wrote:
>
>It was an enlightening experience...I had to rob the pitot heat fuse to
>replace the panel lights fuse. Luckily, no night aerobatics for me that
>time, but it got my heart rate up for a brief moment while I figured out
>what was happening. But, if the fuses were under the panel, I would have
>had to finish the flight with a flashlight in my mouth. A swing-out fuse
>panel is OK as long as you can see it/reach it during flight.
>
>Bob Japundza
>
The way I look at the world you are drawing the wrong lesson from
this experience. What if you had a real short that took out the
panel lights? Having the fuse accessible in flight wouldn't help at
all. All it would do is let you make some more smoke.
If panel lights is a required system, you need a backup. I plan on
having panel lights on one fuse, and little flood lights (LEDs
actually), on a separate fuse, powered from the emergency bus. If
the panel lights die, I'll turn on the flood lights, and sort it out
after I land. The same thing goes for any critical system (a system
that is required for safe flight and landing). Landing and taxi
lights on separate fuses, etc. If the failure will affect your
ability to safely complete the flight, have a backup plan. Hoping
you can change a fuse and bring a system back on line is not a great
back up plan.
Just my two cents worth.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> I had smoke from the panel dimmer and had to shut off the panel lights and
> use a flash light as a student. I was also cleared to land and then the
> controller made me do a 360 on final for spacing because an airliner got to
> the field before me.
> snip
One of the first things my instructor taught me is that the controller
works for me. With smoke in my cockpit, the airliner would have waited.
What say you, feds?
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Voltage Regulator |
Per a call-out in Electric Bob's book, I went to the local auto parts store
today and bought a VR166 voltage regulator. This model isn't adjustable, but
at $9.50, it was $25+ less expensive than the ones sold through aviation
parts houses.. Thought somebody might wanna save a few $...
As an aside, I got into an interesting discussion with the parts manager at
the store. When I mentioned that the regulator was for an airplane he said
that he didn't understand how the electronics on an airplane worked because
they are not grounded. I explained that all of he electrical stuff is
grounded to a central point, so grounding isn't a problem. He said, yeah,
but when you're up in the air, nothing touches the ground, so you're not
grounded... I tried to explain that that isn't how it works, but to no avail.
I even tried to point out that cars are electrically isolated, because those
tire things are pretty good insulators. He didn't buy that either...
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 - Reducing the parts count.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing/Hinge Breakage |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> Relative to this thread....... is there any data to support more or less hinge
> damage on the rv-4 vs. the rv6 ?? The only reason I suggest this is the RV-4
> cowl has tighter radius and less expance and hence less movement then the rv-6
(
> theory at this point). For the same fiberglass thickness my rv-4 cowl seems to
> behave differently than my hanger mates' rv-6 cowl in terms of vibration &
> hinge breakage....Any real world testimonials??
>
I think this is in the archives, but here goes:
(purchased) -4, wood prop, static balance only, Landoll solid steel
flywheel weight.
No probs until @ ~300hrs the snubber under the starter which holds the
cowling 'chin' down in flight broke. Both spinner hinges followed, along
with the first couple of eyelets of the side hinges and 1 or 2 at the
top of the firewall. Also minor problem with fiberglas cracking around
the inlets & rivets in spinner hinge. Reinforced inlets with formed al &
upped rivet size in spinner hinges to 1/8", no further probs.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for RV-8 builder in Chicago area |
I am in Chicago area and have a friend who is leaning hard towards starting
an RV-8A. If you are in Chicagoland, working on an 8, and don't mind a
visitor, please reply directly to me. Maybe you can help push him over the
edge.
Don Mack RV-6A finishing kit
donmack(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~donmack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Mounting |
Guys,
Thought I would pass along a potential problem when mounting your RV-8
canopy. Well, not really the canopy, but the front windscreen. I mounted the
front windscreen according to the instructions, glassed it up, and came back the
next morning to check my work. As I looked at it much closer, I found that the
front windscreen did not aerodynamically fair into the canopy near the bottom
edges of the canopy/windscreen bow. It had a cavity too large to fill with
microballons. It just didn't look right. It seemed to me that the front
windscreen needed shims between the windscreen and the roll-over bar near the
bottom to make a clean aerodynamic shape. I stripped the fiberglass off and redid
the front windscreen over with shims. Much better now! I just wish I caught this
the first time. Hope this helps someone.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Smoke in cockpit - was: Source for fuse blocks that take auto |
fuses
>
>With smoke in my cockpit, the airliner would have waited.
Right on, Charlie! When I saw the first email on this thread I thought of
one of my instructors. He said that when I have an emergency I should
shout "Mayday". For me, smoke would constitute an emergency.
I have seen it written in some printed form that we pilots are much too shy
about declaring emergencies. It makes sense since we are usually culpable
when one occurs. If a worn wire shorts, we are dinged for poor inspection
or maintenance. It is as tho the poor old pilot is solely responsible for
the safety of the flight!
One airliner went around at SJC due to beverage cart out of control. I saw
another go around a few weeks ago so they can do it.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
Posting this for a friend in the Arlington, Wash. area. Has a completed
empenage kit for a RV6, good workmanship and a full set of plans for the
RV6 all for $500.00.
Please send any reply direct to my address.
Eustace Bowhay -- Blind Bay, B.C.
Do not achieve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: radio freq/flight plans/call signs |
When I come into San Jose Intl, Bay Approach hands me off to a second
approach controller. Sometimes it is nearly impossible to get a word in
edgewise so I usually switch frequencies and say just "34V level 3000". No
one has ever complained. I can't see how I can say, "Experimental RV6a,
Hotel Xray Bravo, November seven hotel kilo" on first contact!
What do real people say?
hal
>I have been having an off-list discussion with David Faile( mcfii, tech
>counselor, us flight instr. of the year...). He strongly recommends we NOT
>use designated a/c mfg freqs. for air to air conversations. 122.75 is set
>aside for this and 122.85 for private airports. He also pointed out that
>"experimental" is only required on initial contact with the tower and can
>be dropped afterwards for the last three (if you have enough)
>digits/letters of your call sign. At non-towered airports he suggests
>using a/c description(experimental,low wing, white) rather than call signs.
> Flight plans use a/c codes:
>These are the homebuilt types. When ATC asks what type?
>These are the designations for homebuilts
>HXA Speed 100 Knots or less
>HXB Speed over 100 Knots but less than 200 Knots
>HXC Speed 200 knots and higher
>Most RV's would be Hotel Xray Bravo.
>equipment codes follow, such as /U ( x/p mode C, no DME or VOR).
>
>I thought listers might have forgotten some of this as I have. Kevin do
>not archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Checker Auto parts has automotive fuse blocks |
Checker auto parts has automotive fuse blocks. Any auto parts store
such as National Aircraft Parts Association (NAPA) that sell Buss
fuses will carry or can order the fuse blocks
Gary Zilik - Off to fly with Mike Seagar in the morning
RV-6A N99PZ
Pine, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elrod3794(at)aol.com |
NEED SOME GOOD INFO FOR WIRING RV 8. ANY GOOD BOOKS?
ANY GOOD PRE FAB. WIRING HARNESS?
THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
MIKE ELROD RV8AQB
GETTING TO MOUNT WINGS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: radio freq/flight plans/call signs |
Hal,
When you get passed on to a busy freq, that is just what you have to do.
Make sure you use the entire N number, though. On a handoff like that, the
controller is expecting your call, even though he may not be giving you much
time to talk. I am based in Cleveland and the Approach Controllers here have
started their own little procedure during the handoffs from one App freq to
another. They tell you to "monitor" the next freq, which means just that.
The controller will call you when he is ready for you to do something. FYI.
Gary Baker
B-737 Driver
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
> When I come into San Jose Intl, Bay Approach hands me off to a second
> approach controller. Sometimes it is nearly impossible to get a word in
> edgewise so I usually switch frequencies and say just "34V level 3000".
No
> one has ever complained. I can't see how I can say, "Experimental RV6a,
> Hotel Xray Bravo, November seven hotel kilo" on first contact!
>
> What do real people say?
>
> hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator |
>As an aside, I got into an interesting discussion with the parts manager at
>the store. When I mentioned that the regulator was for an airplane he said
>that he didn't understand how the electronics on an airplane worked because
>they are not grounded. I explained that all of he electrical stuff is
>grounded to a central point, so grounding isn't a problem. He said, yeah,
>but when you're up in the air, nothing touches the ground, so you're not
>grounded... I tried to explain that that isn't how it works, but to no
avail.
> I even tried to point out that cars are electrically isolated, because
those
>tire things are pretty good insulators. He didn't buy that either...
Seems a quote from my hero is called for here:
"There is a great difference between knowing a thing
and understanding it. You can know a lot and not really
understand anything."
Charles F. Kettering
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>The way I look at the world you are drawing the wrong lesson from
>this experience. What if you had a real short that took out the
>panel lights? Having the fuse accessible in flight wouldn't help at
>all. All it would do is let you make some more smoke.
>
>If panel lights is a required system, you need a backup. I plan on
>having panel lights on one fuse, and little flood lights (LEDs
>actually), on a separate fuse, powered from the emergency bus. If
>the panel lights die, I'll turn on the flood lights, and sort it out
>after I land. The same thing goes for any critical system (a system
>that is required for safe flight and landing). Landing and taxi
>lights on separate fuses, etc. If the failure will affect your
>ability to safely complete the flight, have a backup plan. Hoping
>you can change a fuse and bring a system back on line is not a great
>back up plan.
You got an A+ on that exam!
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pressure Sensors |
Listers,
Do fuel and oil pressure remote sensors have a preferred orientation? I
always see them installed with the pressure port down, but is this just for
ease of installation, or is there something else at work here?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>This is another advantage of the solidstate protection devices. They won't
>reset unless the short is removed so you don't have to worry about welded
>contacts(circuit breaker) or inflight fires from putting in a fuse that is
>over rated by accident.
. . . hazards that are more fiction than fact . . .
> Removing the short and cycle the power(switch off)
>is all you have to do. So, if a filement on a lamp momentarily burnes out
>and goes into a high enough current to blow the fuse and then opens,
When bulbs burn out, their current goes to ZERO . . . not higher.
Transient shorts in a system are no more acceptable for continued
flight than a solid short . . . why accomodate them with a self
reseting breaker?
>the solidstate device can be reset by turning the panel lights switch off
then
>back on and it's reset. You don't have to fumble in the dark for a circuit
>breaker or try to find a fuse....
Certified aircraft systems are designed to "leave you
fumbling in the dark" but modern, amateur built airplanes
should be totally free of such posibilities by design.
It's not hard to do.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>
>So that is why there is mandatory flash light for night flying.
>
Because everybody knows that certified airplanes frequently
go dark. If they didn't, the flying magazines would loose
an important source of hair-raising tales to publish in
the interest of "safety and education" . . . It just wouldn't
do to design systems that always put you back on the ground
without breaking a sweat.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>It was an enlightening experience...I had to rob the pitot heat fuse to
>replace the panel lights fuse. Luckily, no night aerobatics for me that
>time, but it got my heart rate up for a brief moment while I figured out
>what was happening. But, if the fuses were under the panel, I would have
>had to finish the flight with a flashlight in my mouth. A swing-out fuse
>panel is OK as long as you can see it/reach it during flight.
Pitot heater = 10A Panel lights = 5A or perhaps 3A?
I recall an uncle that put a penny into the socket under
an old threaded plug fuse in grandma's house and damned near
set the house on fire.
How about a gooseneck map light (optional in many Grummans for
years and found on our website) - a single bulb wired
to the e-bus. In normal ops it hovers right over the map
in your lap. When main panel lighting goes down, it swivels
to become a panel flood that you don't have to hold in your
teeth.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Listers,
>
>Since we're on the topic, are there any manufacturers producing fuseblocks
>similar to what Electric Bob sells that use the newer "mini" fuses, which
>are about half the size of the regular blade-type fuses? I
The mini-blade fuses are found in OEM
fuseblock assemblies with harnesses fabricated right into
the fuseholders. I've not seen any suited for individual,
customized point to point wiring in airplanes.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator |
In a message dated 1/25/00 6:03:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< I even tried to point out that cars are electrically isolated, because
those
tire things are pretty good insulators. He didn't buy that either. >>
They may be now, but I would have to measure them. They are certainly not
low impedance paths to ground.
I heard that tire compounds used to be heavily loaded with carbon black so
that they would in fact conduct a charge to ground. Volume resistivity in
ESD control measures x<1X10
5 ohms/sq as conductive, 1X10
5| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 canopy latch |
I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy latch mechanism. I would like
to use the standard latch mechanism in the plans, but it does not provide
for a partially open position for ground operations. I have heard a rumor
about a builder in the Seattle area who has designed a safety latch that
allows use of the standard canopy latch and has a partially open position.
Does anyone have his address and phone number or any suggested solutions?
Thanx, Rion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JANWR101(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for RV-8 builder in Chicago area |
TO DON MACK Don i'm not in the chicago , but if you are in the indianapolis
aera you are welcom to drop by. You can contact me at 317-862-2389 John
marshall
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Mounting |
It seemed to me that the front windscreen needed shims between the windscreen
and the roll-over bar near the
> bottom to make a clean aerodynamic shape.
Joe,
I found the same thing while I was fitting the frame and van's said to use up
to 1/2 inch shims, but they had never heard of this problem.
Alan Kritzman
hanging engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | How many cylinders to connect to the primer? |
I am now turning my titanic intellect to the question of how to install a
primer to the cylinders of my carburetor-equipped O-320. My present plan is
to run the primer line from the primer port on my gascolator to an electric
solenoid and then to the engine. I will turn on the electric fuel pump to
pressurize the system and open the solenoid to let gas down the primer
line(s).
My problem: I don't have a clear idea of where to run the primer line(s) to.
Tony B appears to state that it is common to run a primer line to just one
cylinder. I would think that it would be better to squirt the gas into more
than one.
The first question is, therefore, is one cylinder enough?
The second question is, if I should run that primer line to more than one
cylinder, how do I split the 1/8 inch line into two or more separate lines?
The third question is whether the copper priming line that Van's sells is OK
for this use. Some of the experts around here tell me that I should use
only aluminum line.
The fourth question is whether the little primer lines should be covered
with some sort of extra small diameter firesleeve, or it this just to cover
the flexible lines?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A
Snow at last!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>
>>This is another advantage of the solidstate protection devices. They
won't
>>reset unless the short is removed so you don't have to worry about welded
>>contacts(circuit breaker) or inflight fires from putting in a fuse that is
>>over rated by accident.
>
> . . . hazards that are more fiction than fact . . .
what part are you saying is fiction?
>
>> Removing the short and cycle the power(switch off)
>>is all you have to do. So, if a filement on a lamp momentarily burnes out
>>and goes into a high enough current to blow the fuse and then opens,
>
> When bulbs burn out, their current goes to ZERO . . . not higher.
> Transient shorts in a system are no more acceptable for continued
> flight than a solid short . . . why accomodate them with a self
> reseting breaker?
Then why have I had a headlamp fuse blow in a car when the headlamp
burned out? The answer is the filiment fell into the supports and conducted
at a much higher current for a split second and took the fuse out, while
also vaperizing itself AND THEN GOING TO ZERO. Also had this happen
recently in the home when a floodlamp on a track light burned out and
flipped the breaker. Reset the breaker and all but one lamp came on.
Checked the lamp and sure enough you couldn't find ANY of the filiment in
the lamp. Where did it go? Into vapor.... As the filiment fell against
the conductive supports at a much lower resistance.
And the solidstate devices I'm talking about don't AUTORESET, the circuit
must manually be turned off by the pilot. I would never recommend having an
'autorest' circuit in any aircraft.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
What's an example of these 'solidstate devices' you keep refering to? Where
can I see one? Who sells them? Who's using them?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> And the solidstate devices I'm talking about don't AUTORESET, the circuit
> must manually be turned off by the pilot. I would never
> recommend having an
> 'autorest' circuit in any aircraft.
>
> Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Here you go Larry... There are at least two RV's at my airport with these
installed...
http://www.controlvision.com/frame.cfm?link=avionics.htm
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
-----Original Message-----
What's an example of these 'solidstate devices' you keep refering to? Where
can I see one? Who sells them? Who's using them?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Hi Kevin,
I have no problem with you or some of your points, but my point with the
failure experience is that if you make your fusepanel inaccessible in
flight, you lose the option to do some immediate troubleshooting. Something
in my case was drawing more current than the fuse was rated for, and I
replaced the fuse in flight and everything worked fine afterwards. This may
have been an anomaly, but the worst thing I thought would happen was the
other fuse would blow. If I remember correctly, in that Cherokee the panel
lights were on the same circuit as the nav lights, so the fuse I replaced
was of the same value as the pitot heat. I made sure the values were the
same. You are right about redundancy in your systems, and I have many
electrical items on their own circuits. My fuseblocks are attached to the
right side of the cockpit below and behind the panel where they are easily
reachable, and I like them there so I can at least try to fix something
in-flight within reason to continue on safely.
Bob Japundza
The way I look at the world you are drawing the wrong lesson from
this experience. What if you had a real short that took out the
panel lights? Having the fuse accessible in flight wouldn't help at
all. All it would do is let you make some more smoke.
If panel lights is a required system, you need a backup. I plan on
having panel lights on one fuse, and little flood lights (LEDs
actually), on a separate fuse, powered from the emergency bus. If
the panel lights die, I'll turn on the flood lights, and sort it out
after I land. The same thing goes for any critical system (a system
that is required for safe flight and landing). Landing and taxi
lights on separate fuses, etc. If the failure will affect your
ability to safely complete the flight, have a backup plan. Hoping
you can change a fuse and bring a system back on line is not a great
back up plan.
Just my two cents worth.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many cylinders to connect to the primer? |
>
>I am now turning my titanic intellect to the question of how to install a
>primer to the cylinders of my carburetor-equipped O-320. My present plan is
>to run the primer line from the primer port on my gascolator to an electric
>solenoid and then to the engine. I will turn on the electric fuel pump to
>pressurize the system and open the solenoid to let gas down the primer
>line(s).
>
>My problem: I don't have a clear idea of where to run the primer line(s) to.
>Tony B appears to state that it is common to run a primer line to just one
>cylinder. I would think that it would be better to squirt the gas into more
>than one.
Especially if you'd like to consider the primer system as a backup
fuel delivery system. Break a mixure control, plug a float valve
and the primer system (if calibrated for a 50-60% power fuel flow)
can be energized and throttle adjusted for smoothest running engine.
You get to select a landing spot on your terms, not the terms
dictated by energy stored in your lifeless airframe.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy latch |
I think I have the gentleman's address. I met him at OSH this past year. By
latching mechanism I assume you mean the pins (3/8's inch heavy wall tubing)
that latch into the dash & rear seat bulkhead ??? Are you looking for a safety
(additional ) latch ??. The west coast RV-4 person I ran into has a very clever
safety latch and uses the traditional latching pin ( Vans) method. Contact me &
I can get the address to you. I am using the traditional latching pin(s) and
trying to decide on a safety latch system.....where are your thoughts on this
issue.....
rion(at)worldnet.att.net on 01/26/2000 02:49:03 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy latch
I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy latch mechanism. I would like
to use the standard latch mechanism in the plans, but it does not provide
for a partially open position for ground operations. I have heard a rumor
about a builder in the Seattle area who has designed a safety latch that
allows use of the standard canopy latch and has a partially open position.
Does anyone have his address and phone number or any suggested solutions?
Thanx, Rion
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters |
The VR166 solution worked for me two weeks ago. Being annal retentative & took
my regulator & alternator (35 amp Mark Landrol with 4 inch pulley) home ,
clamped the alt. to the table saw , ran the belt around alt. & lit the whole
mess up. Worked 100%.
What was interesting was the variance in digital voltage meters I saw. I ended
up borrowing 6 meters from work & the 4 from home & only two of the 10 meters
showed the same voltage.... I am talking about up to 2.8 volts variance in
digital readouts .........
The cheepie units were the worst offernders ( dah) The Fluke & H/P meters were
the most accurate ( calabrated and verivied by my oscilloscope ). The matter
was important because I was trying to see the cut in / cut out voltage of the
cheepie regulator... and the steady state voltage of the battery & if the setup
was (would) overcharge my aircraft system.
Tell your parts counter man that aircraft nuts & bolts are left hand threads and
hence vibrate tighter rather than become looser. Point to the fact that regular
right hand nuts & bolts vibrate loose......see if he buys that.......
KBoatri144(at)aol.com on 01/25/2000 08:13:31 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Voltage Regulator
Per a call-out in Electric Bob's book, I went to the local auto parts store
today and bought a VR166 voltage regulator. This model isn't adjustable, but
at $9.50, it was $25+ less expensive than the ones sold through aviation
parts houses.. Thought somebody might wanna save a few $...
As an aside, I got into an interesting discussion with the parts manager at
the store. When I mentioned that the regulator was for an airplane he said
that he didn't understand how the electronics on an airplane worked because
they are not grounded. I explained that all of he electrical stuff is
grounded to a central point, so grounding isn't a problem. He said, yeah,
but when you're up in the air, nothing touches the ground, so you're not
grounded... I tried to explain that that isn't how it works, but to no avail.
I even tried to point out that cars are electrically isolated, because those
tire things are pretty good insulators. He didn't buy that either...
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 - Reducing the parts count.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
Allright listers...
In the instructions for the Empennage kit, all that it says is
"be sure to provide for the necessary wiring runs and access details".
The intent here is to accomodate the coaxial cable for a Comant CI182
GS/LOC/VOR antenna. My lights are going to be on the wings only so
the same theories should apply when I get to that step.
So here's my (and most novice builders) quandry:
What do you use (grommet / tube / both) to go through the VS404, VS406,
and VS407, or do you go forward of the VS402 with some adel clamps
(every how many inches?) and a teflon tube through the VS406 forward of
the VS402 to the aft of the VS405?
I think that I confused myself with that question. So, how about some
part numbers/suppliers from all of the builders that have finished
this successfully already!
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
QB ordered while I work on EMP (HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime)!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How many cylinders to connect to the primer? |
Steve,
You will probably get a whole array of answers to your questions, so you'll
be faced with selecting the answers that you think fit your situation and
moving on from there. As with many questions, there is no one right answer.
I'll tell you what I did.
>
>The first question is, therefore, is one cylinder enough?
I copied the primer system from my Piper. I ran it to all four cylinders.
I'm in a cold weather climate like you and I thought this would provide me
with the maximum benefit from a priming system. No scientific facts to
prove four is better than three, or one. That's why I just copied it from
Mr. Piper.
>The second question is, if I should run that primer line to more than one
>cylinder, how do I split the 1/8 inch line into two or more separate lines?
I used three steel 1/8" flared tee fittings that are cushioned clamped to
the sump.
>The third question is whether the copper priming line that Van's sells is
OK
>for this use. Some of the experts around here tell me that I should use
>only aluminum line.
I bought both the aluminum and the copper. After researching the issue in
Tony's book and after looking at production aircraft, I chose the copper. I
was concerned that the aluminim flares would pull out of the nut over time.
>The fourth question is whether the little primer lines should be covered
>with some sort of extra small diameter firesleeve, or it this just to cover
>the flexible lines?
I don't think the firesleeve is necessary. When your primer pump is closed,
no fuel is flowing through the lines. If a fire would break out, or if a
line would break, you would only burn the fuel remaining in the 1/8" line.
Not much there to worry about. Now I did run a flexible line from an end
coupling in the primer line to the middle of my firewall (which runs to my
primer pump) and this line is firesleeved, although it is probably not
necessary.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many cylinders to connect to the primer? |
>
>I am now turning my titanic intellect to the question of how to install a
>primer to the cylinders of my carburetor-equipped O-320. My present plan
>is
>to run the primer line from the primer port on my gascolator to an electric
>solenoid and then to the engine. I will turn on the electric fuel pump to
>pressurize the system and open the solenoid to let gas down the primer
>line(s).
>
>My problem: I don't have a clear idea of where to run the primer line(s)
>to.
>Tony B appears to state that it is common to run a primer line to just one
>cylinder. I would think that it would be better to squirt the gas into
>more
>than one.
>
>The first question is, therefore, is one cylinder enough?
>The second question is, if I should run that primer line to more than one
>cylinder, how do I split the 1/8 inch line into two or more separate lines?
>
>The third question is whether the copper priming line that Van's sells is
>OK
>for this use. Some of the experts around here tell me that I should use
>only aluminum line.
>The fourth question is whether the little primer lines should be covered
>with some sort of extra small diameter firesleeve, or it this just to cover
>the flexible lines?
>
>Steve Soule
Steve,
Here's how I did it. I used copper tubing for all the hookups to THREE
cylinders, since the fourth cylinder primer port is hooked up to the
manifold pressure gauge. I used a manual primer pump, which pulls fuel out
of the top of the gascolator. A bulkhead "T" fitting is mounted on the
firewall to send one line to the side of the engine with just one primed
cylinder, and the other side of the T goes to yes, yet another T fitting. It
is positioned between the other two cylinders near the intercylinder baffle
and short tubes go from there to each cylinder above it. I did not sleeve
the lines with anything.
I momentarily energize the fuel pump to pressurize the system, then give the
primer about four or five strokes for a cold start. It fires up in two or
three blades.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chatter/RV Speed Hints |
>
>Another secret is to not paint the airplane. Bare aluminum and
>unfinished fiberglass does just not get 'em out of their seats. A
>drawback to this strategy is blindness due to sun reflections off
>unpainted wings.
HAH! Yeah right! When Pat K. and I parked our UNPAINTED airplanes at
Moriarty last Saturday, we must have had at least ten guys hovering around
them for at least 45 minutes. So, then after we paint them, it gets worse?
(better?) I fully agree that when flight planning to go from A to B, an RV
driver must calculate in the question and answer session, preflight, then
more questions, then maybe a ride around the patch, then go pee, then more
questions...
All things considered, I'm enjoying every minute of it. :)
Brian in Albuquerque with a sorta balanced prop.
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | How many cylinders to connect to the primer? |
Hi Randy and thanks for the reply. I like your approach and will probably
adopt it. I have a CHT sender in my #3 cylinder right now, if I want to
prime all four where do I put that CHT sender? I know next to nothing about
these engines.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy J. Pflanzer [mailto:rpflanze(at)iquest.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 11:07 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: How many cylinders to connect
to the primer?
Steve,
You will probably get a whole array of answers to your
questions, so you'll
be faced with selecting the answers that you think fit your
situation and
moving on from there. As with many questions, there is no
one right answer.
I'll tell you what I did.
>
>The first question is, therefore, is one cylinder enough?
I copied the primer system from my Piper. I ran it to all
four cylinders.
I'm in a cold weather climate like you and I thought this
would provide me
with the maximum benefit from a priming system. No
scientific facts to
prove four is better than three, or one. That's why I just
copied it from
Mr. Piper.
>The second question is, if I should run that primer line to
more than one
>cylinder, how do I split the 1/8 inch line into two or more
separate lines?
I used three steel 1/8" flared tee fittings that are
cushioned clamped to
the sump.
>The third question is whether the copper priming line that
Van's sells is
OK
>for this use. Some of the experts around here tell me that
I should use
>only aluminum line.
I bought both the aluminum and the copper. After
researching the issue in
Tony's book and after looking at production aircraft, I
chose the copper. I
was concerned that the aluminim flares would pull out of the
nut over time.
>The fourth question is whether the little primer lines
should be covered
>with some sort of extra small diameter firesleeve, or it
this just to cover
>the flexible lines?
I don't think the firesleeve is necessary. When your primer
pump is closed,
no fuel is flowing through the lines. If a fire would break
out, or if a
line would break, you would only burn the fuel remaining in
the 1/8" line.
Not much there to worry about. Now I did run a flexible
line from an end
coupling in the primer line to the middle of my firewall
(which runs to my
primer pump) and this line is firesleeved, although it is
probably not
necessary.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: EXPERIMENTAL call signs to ATC |
Fellow Listers & Esp. the ATC guys, including "Grumpy"
Thanks for clearing up the grey area of identifying yourself to Approach
and Tower. However, I am unfamiliar with HXA, HXB..., etc. and in
Florida, no controller has ever asked my "class". I had been
taught to tell controllers your "approach category" when they ask for
speed (ie, Class A = less than 91 KIAS thru Class E = 166 KIAS or
more--based on 1.3 Vso at gross weight).
Since my modified RV-6 (IO-540) cruises at 180 - 240 mph, what "class"
do I tell the controllers--I guess it's HXC?--can't find it in AIM/FAR.
"Sarasota Approach, RV6 600 Sierra Sierra Experimantal Class Hotel XRay
Charlie, from the South at twenty, level at two thousand"?
Also, a note to my fellow RV'ers that come into Approach and airport
range at full speed to get a testosterone boost by making a Mooney "get
out of the way"--can be dangerous--use an approach speed that you feel fits
into the speed range of the planes already in the pattern or that you
hear are coming in--but then, again, you may need to peg it if Tower
says there's a Lear on your tail,"please expedite". As an ex-Navy
Flight Surgeon, I have photographed
too many bodies that have used their airplanes as a penis extender. Oh,
and by the way, MY IO-540 is NOT a penis extender--it's an aerodynamic
experiment to expand basic aeronautical knowledge for the betterment of
mankind, yeah--that's the ticket.
Boyd.
Michael Hartmann wrote:
>
>
> >In this area (Southeast), on 1st call to Approach or Tower the
> >controller will ask for 'class' of experimental. The class tells the
> >controller the cruise speed range of the a/c, with rv's being class B.
> >Controllers are not very consistent with this, but a friend who's a
> >controller has told me it's 'official.' Is this not a national
> >practice?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | PR Wheel Pants-ground clearance |
To all,
I mounted up the pressure recovery 2 piece wheel pants last night on my -6. (Having
the airplane up on stands in level attitude is nerve wracking out here in
earthquake land). When I lowered it off of the stands and put weight on the
wheels, I became a little concerned about the clearance of the wheel pants and
the ground just aft of the wheel.
Mine looks to be about one inch. Tire pressure is about 30psi and I set it up
with 1-3/8" of tire clearance from the top of the wheel to the top of the pant.
Every thing else is per the plans.
To those who have been flying with these pants in a taildragger, what is your clearance
and is one inch (no jokes please :-) ) enough?
TIA,
Laird RV-6 22923
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | How many cylinders to connect to the primer? |
Steve:
the CHT is under the spark plug or is just screwed to the jug for Temp.
Each jug has a hole ( like the injector types) that is plumbed to the
innards of the cylinder. Most people have to use one for the MP. So you
can use the other three.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
writes:
>
>Hi Randy and thanks for the reply. I like your approach and will
>probably
>adopt it. I have a CHT sender in my #3 cylinder right now, if I want
>to
>prime all four where do I put that CHT sender? I know next to nothing
>about
>these engines.
>
>Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy J. Pflanzer
>[mailto:rpflanze(at)iquest.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 11:07 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How many cylinders to
>connect
>to the primer?
>
>
>
> Steve,
>
> You will probably get a whole array of answers to your
>questions, so you'll
> be faced with selecting the answers that you think fit
>your
>situation and
> moving on from there. As with many questions, there
>is no
>one right answer.
>
> I'll tell you what I did.
> >
> >The first question is, therefore, is one cylinder
>enough?
>
> I copied the primer system from my Piper. I ran it to
>all
>four cylinders.
> I'm in a cold weather climate like you and I thought
>this
>would provide me
> with the maximum benefit from a priming system. No
>scientific facts to
> prove four is better than three, or one. That's why I
>just
>copied it from
> Mr. Piper.
>
> >The second question is, if I should run that primer
>line to
>more than one
> >cylinder, how do I split the 1/8 inch line into two
>or more
>separate lines?
>
> I used three steel 1/8" flared tee fittings that are
>cushioned clamped to
> the sump.
>
> >The third question is whether the copper priming line
>that
>Van's sells is
> OK
> >for this use. Some of the experts around here tell
>me that
>I should use
> >only aluminum line.
>
> I bought both the aluminum and the copper. After
>researching the issue in
> Tony's book and after looking at production aircraft,
>I
>chose the copper. I
> was concerned that the aluminim flares would pull out
>of the
>nut over time.
>
> >The fourth question is whether the little primer
>lines
>should be covered
> >with some sort of extra small diameter firesleeve, or
>it
>this just to cover
> >the flexible lines?
>
> I don't think the firesleeve is necessary. When your
>primer
>pump is closed,
> no fuel is flowing through the lines. If a fire would
>break
>out, or if a
> line would break, you would only burn the fuel
>remaining in
>the 1/8" line.
> Not much there to worry about. Now I did run a
>flexible
>line from an end
> coupling in the primer line to the middle of my
>firewall
>(which runs to my
> primer pump) and this line is firesleeved, although it
>is
>probably not
> necessary.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> "Painting"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How many cylinders to connect to the primer? |
Steve,
The CHT sender goes into a well in the bottom, center of the cylinder. This
is not where the primer line goes.
The primer goes into a 1/4" npt port to the left, bottom of the valve cover.
This is an open port right into the cylinder head. It usually has a allen
head plug in it. This is also where manifold pressure can be taken. On my
engine, one of my cylinders had an additional port on top of the cylinder
from which I took my manifold pressure. Of you don't have this extra port
(and not all cylinders do), then you can only prime three of the cylinders.
I made frequent visits to my FBO and I wandered around the birds that were
in the maintenance hangar to see how the spam cans did it. Most of the
time, the mechanics would gladly answer my questions for me.
Hang in there.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 1:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: How many cylinders to connect to the primer?
>
>Hi Randy and thanks for the reply. I like your approach and will probably
>adopt it. I have a CHT sender in my #3 cylinder right now, if I want to
>prime all four where do I put that CHT sender? I know next to nothing
about
>these engines.
>
>Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy J. Pflanzer [mailto:rpflanze(at)iquest.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 11:07 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How many cylinders to connect
>to the primer?
>
>
>
> Steve,
>
> You will probably get a whole array of answers to your
>questions, so you'll
> be faced with selecting the answers that you think fit your
>situation and
> moving on from there. As with many questions, there is no
>one right answer.
>
> I'll tell you what I did.
> >
> >The first question is, therefore, is one cylinder enough?
>
> I copied the primer system from my Piper. I ran it to all
>four cylinders.
> I'm in a cold weather climate like you and I thought this
>would provide me
> with the maximum benefit from a priming system. No
>scientific facts to
> prove four is better than three, or one. That's why I just
>copied it from
> Mr. Piper.
>
> >The second question is, if I should run that primer line
to
>more than one
> >cylinder, how do I split the 1/8 inch line into two or
more
>separate lines?
>
> I used three steel 1/8" flared tee fittings that are
>cushioned clamped to
> the sump.
>
> >The third question is whether the copper priming line that
>Van's sells is
> OK
> >for this use. Some of the experts around here tell me
that
>I should use
> >only aluminum line.
>
> I bought both the aluminum and the copper. After
>researching the issue in
> Tony's book and after looking at production aircraft, I
>chose the copper. I
> was concerned that the aluminim flares would pull out of
the
>nut over time.
>
> >The fourth question is whether the little primer lines
>should be covered
> >with some sort of extra small diameter firesleeve, or it
>this just to cover
> >the flexible lines?
>
> I don't think the firesleeve is necessary. When your
primer
>pump is closed,
> no fuel is flowing through the lines. If a fire would
break
>out, or if a
> line would break, you would only burn the fuel remaining in
>the 1/8" line.
> Not much there to worry about. Now I did run a flexible
>line from an end
> coupling in the primer line to the middle of my firewall
>(which runs to my
> primer pump) and this line is firesleeved, although it is
>probably not
> necessary.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> "Painting"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergencie and ATC (was Source for fuse blocks) |
Works for me!!! When there is an unusual situations/emergency, the stress
level goes right out the roof. At that point the pilot becomes a hazard to
everyone around him, not just himself and his pax. By all means lets get
him of the ground where everyone is safe. Now of course if he /she gets
macho and does not let ATC know then ATC can't help him out. Even if you
don't declare an emergency let ATC know what is going on and keep them
advised. They will give you a higher level of priority and handling to help
you get on the ground as soon as possible.
Back in the late fifties and early sixties over 75% of accident were caused
by mechanical failure as the primary cause. Today the trend has reversed.
Between 90 and 95% of ALL accidents are primarily caused by the pilot. We
are going in depth into the human factors of accident investigation now.
And one of the primary causes of pilot induced accidents is PILOT EGO.
We are building better/smarter aircraft today. That includes all
categories...heavy metal, home builts, Cessna, helicopters, etc. As pilot's
we need to put our egos on hold when we fly and use common sense. I don't
know about you but I would much rather fill out a little paper work
explaining an incident than having my soul try to comfort my friends and
relatives because I was stupid and won't ask for help.
Sorry I got carried away. I will get off the soap box.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB Panel is DONE!!
"Das Fed"
>From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 18:52:39 -0600
>
>
>
>
>Cy Galley wrote:
> >
> >
> > I had smoke from the panel dimmer and had to shut off the panel lights
>and
> > use a flash light as a student. I was also cleared to land and then the
> > controller made me do a 360 on final for spacing because an airliner got
>to
> > the field before me.
> > snip
>
>One of the first things my instructor taught me is that the controller
>works for me. With smoke in my cockpit, the airliner would have waited.
>
>What say you, feds?
>
>Charlie
>
>flying -4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy latch |
Paul: Please send me his address and phone number. I do indeed want to use
the 3/8's inch tubing latching mechanism per the plans where the latch tube
runs through the canopy frame bows, but the safety latch that Van's provides
doesn't have an intermediate stop: you are fully open or fully closed.
Some builders put two holes in the instrument panel and rear seat bullkhead,
but this requires riveting or welding an extension inboard on the canopy
frame bows to run the latch tubing through. I had heard that the builder in
the Seattle area had come up with a solution that allowed you to run the
latch tube through the canopy frame bows as per the plans. Please send me
his e-mail address and phone number. Thanx, Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> I think I have the gentleman's address. I met him at OSH this past year.
By
> latching mechanism I assume you mean the pins (3/8's inch heavy wall
tubing)
> that latch into the dash & rear seat bulkhead ??? Are you looking for a
safety
> (additional ) latch ??. The west coast RV-4 person I ran into has a very
clever
> safety latch and uses the traditional latching pin ( Vans) method. Contact
me &
> I can get the address to you. I am using the traditional latching pin(s)
and
> trying to decide on a safety latch system.....where are your thoughts on
this
> issue.....
>
>
> rion(at)worldnet.att.net on 01/26/2000 02:49:03 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy latch mechanism. I would
like
> to use the standard latch mechanism in the plans, but it does not provide
> for a partially open position for ground operations. I have heard a rumor
> about a builder in the Seattle area who has designed a safety latch that
> allows use of the standard canopy latch and has a partially open position.
> Does anyone have his address and phone number or any suggested solutions?
> Thanx, Rion
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | less expensive strobes |
I have been running school bus strobes from ISSPRO (the company that now
supplies Van's custom gauges). The power pack I believe was $179, runs
four, 30 joules, quad flash, hi/lo power, strobe bulbs which cost $40 a
piece. I used shielded wire and have no radio interference. I mounted the
bulbs inside the wingtip lens and had to add an air vent hole to cool them.
The unit seems very well built. They sell smaller units, 20 joules,
single bulb for as low as $112(?). I would guess that you could buy the
whelen lens if you wanted a wingtip mount. I realize now that this is a
much better location because even though the bulb is shielded from the
cockpit the plex lens flashes bright and is annoying when it is very dark.
kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WIREING HARNESS |
Just now putting finishing touches on my panel. I would recommend starting
out with Van's elelctrical kit and going from there. The ONLY part of their
kit I would change out, after having already finished, is using a series of
regular terminal bloks purchased form Acft. Spr. or Radio Shack instead of
the homemade nylon blocks and screws in the kit. After that you are on your
own pretty much.
Bob Nuckoll's book AeroElectric Connection is an excellent book with many
different schematic ideas to use.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: Elrod3794(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: WIREING HARNESS
>Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 22:26:14 EST
>
>
>NEED SOME GOOD INFO FOR WIRING RV 8. ANY GOOD BOOKS?
>ANY GOOD PRE FAB. WIRING HARNESS?
>THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
>MIKE ELROD RV8AQB
>GETTING TO MOUNT WINGS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Ralph,
There was an article in RVator #4(?) this last year covering exactly that.
May want to try that first.
>From: "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-List
>Subject: RV-List: Wiring VS
>Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:39 -0500 (EST)
>
>
>Allright listers...
>
>In the instructions for the Empennage kit, all that it says is
>"be sure to provide for the necessary wiring runs and access details".
>
>The intent here is to accomodate the coaxial cable for a Comant CI182
>GS/LOC/VOR antenna. My lights are going to be on the wings only so
>the same theories should apply when I get to that step.
>
>So here's my (and most novice builders) quandry:
>
>What do you use (grommet / tube / both) to go through the VS404, VS406,
>and VS407, or do you go forward of the VS402 with some adel clamps
>(every how many inches?) and a teflon tube through the VS406 forward of
>the VS402 to the aft of the VS405?
>
>I think that I confused myself with that question. So, how about some
>part numbers/suppliers from all of the builders that have finished
>this successfully already!
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
>QB ordered while I work on EMP (HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime)!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> The VR166 solution worked for me two weeks ago. Being annal retentative & took
> my regulator & alternator (35 amp Mark Landrol with 4 inch pulley) home ,
> clamped the alt. to the table saw , ran the belt around alt. & lit the whole
> mess up. Worked 100%.
>
> What was interesting was the variance in digital voltage meters I saw. I ended
> up borrowing 6 meters from work & the 4 from home & only two of the 10 meters
> showed the same voltage.... I am talking about up to 2.8 volts variance in
> digital readouts .........
What kind of battery did you have on the alt.? With minimal filtering by
the battery it's not surprising to see that, but if you had a full sized
battery on line even the 'cheapies' should be more accurate than that.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-360 Engine Control Cables Installation |
Anyone who's put or is putting a front induction, IO360 in their -8(A) find
that the throttle and mixture cables come pretty close to the exhaust pipes?
I made my own cable support brackets out of .063", 4130 stock, and attached
them to the bosses on the sump. Just looks like there isn't much clearance
from the exhaust pipes when the cables are set up at the proper position
relative to the throttle and mixture control arms. Van's recommendation on
the mixture cable length (55") seem too short as well. Additionally, on
Van's governor bracket, I bent over the cable attach tab 180 degrees. Sure
did make everything line up a lot better. Comments on the mixture and
throttle clearance issues/cable length?
-Don
RV-8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PR Wheel Pants-ground clearance |
--- Owens wrote:
>
>
> To all,
>
> I mounted up the pressure recovery 2 piece wheel
> pants last night on my -6. (Having the airplane up
> on stands in level attitude is nerve wracking out
> here in earthquake land). When I lowered it off of
> the stands and put weight on the wheels, I became a
> little concerned about the clearance of the wheel
> pants and the ground just aft of the wheel.
>
> Mine looks to be about one inch. Tire pressure is
> about 30psi and I set it up with 1-3/8" of tire
> clearance from the top of the wheel to the top of
> the pant. Every thing else is per the plans.
>
> To those who have been flying with these pants in a
> taildragger, what is your clearance and is one inch
> (no jokes please :-) ) enough?
>
> TIA,
> Laird RV-6 22923
> SoCal
Laird:
Yes this is about the same as my-6. I over-inflate
the tires to 40 psi. I use a 1" X 2" (firing stirp)in
the hangar for wheel chocks. Actaul thickness of a
firing strip is 3/4". When I cannot place the firing
strip behind the tires with out rubbing the wheel
pant, it is time to add air. I will also scrap the
door track when I put the airplane away or take it
out. Air pressure at this condition is 25 psi. It
takes about 3 months to go from 40 to 25.
Hope this helps.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy latch |
Rion,
I think I know the device you are talking about. Saw one on a -4 with a
military paint scheme at Copperstate last year (the airplane was on the
cover of the RVator a couple of issues ago). Since I was working on this
area at the time I asked the owner about it. The thing was machined from
Titanium and very pricey. It apparently is in high demand as the guy told
me there was a backlog at the time. He waited many months to get his. So I
didnt persue any further.
For my -4 I drilled a hole throught the roll bar longitudinally about 4"
above the cockpit rail. I bushed the hole with brass tube and installed a
pin that engages a UHMW block attached to the canopy frame (the stamped
sheet metal brace that goes across the airplane directly behind the roll
bar). The UHMW has 2 holes, 1 for propping the canopy open for taxi and 1
for a safety in the closed position. A bellcrank pivoted on a bolt mounted
in the rollbar gusset drives the pin from 1 arm of the bell crank, the
other arm of the bell crank has a pushrod going forward so you dont have to
reach over your shoulder to actuate the thing. It works well, the only
problems are that propping the canopy in taxi position is a 2 hand job and
it takes some practice to find the hole until you get used to it. I would
do it this way again.
For the canopy stay I did something I havent seen on any other -4. A
piece of 1/8 X 1/2 X about 18" piece of bar stock is attached to the canopy
frame via a pivot bolt at one end. The attachment point is again on that
cross piece of the frame about 6" inches from the right edge. The bar is
slotted and a bolt is passed thru the slot and bolted to the rollbar. So
when the canopy is opened the bar slides along the bolt until it reaches
the end of the slot and can then open no further. The geometry is such that
in the closed position the bar sits behind the right upright of the rollbar
so it doesnt impede the rear seat view. Another advantage is that you can
notch the slot so that it provides a positive stop. The canopy cant be
closed until the bar is lifted up out of the notch. If talked to several -4
owners who have had their canopies ruined when the wind blew them closed.
Hope this makes sense. There seems to be as many methods of doing props
and stays as there are RV4s. If you want more info contact me off-list.
Maybe I can borrow a digital camera and email some pictures.
Mike Wills
RV-4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy latch mechanism. I would like
>to use the standard latch mechanism in the plans, but it does not provide
>for a partially open position for ground operations. I have heard a rumor
>about a builder in the Seattle area who has designed a safety latch that
>allows use of the standard canopy latch and has a partially open position.
>Does anyone have his address and phone number or any suggested solutions?
>Thanx, Rion
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PR Wheel Pants-ground clearance |
>Mine looks to be about one inch. Tire pressure is about 30psi and I set
it up with 1-3/8" of tire clearance from the top of the wheel to the top of
the pant. Every thing else is per the plans.
>
>To those who have been flying with these pants in a taildragger, what is
your clearance and is one inch (no jokes please :-) ) enough?
Mine are mounted at about that same clearance. They are ok on flat
cement. But they have scraped a couple of times on bumps. And I am going
to have to redo them....I don't think they will do well on grass or any
other rough surface. As I was told at Van's they have had a few of them
roll right around the wheel and depart!
Have a great day!
Denny, RV-6 N641DH (Flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Hi J;
I used a pin from the nautilus weight room that
holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a hole in my
roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a point on the
entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches "above
the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic bushings in
the hole in the roll bar just like the ones for the
rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could put a
small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the end. Now
I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy bulkhead
on the ground and pull it back when I shut the canopy.
It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The cool part
is when the canopy is down, the pin slides backwards
OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing opening if the
canopy lock should fail. See ya.
Rob Ray
smokyray(at)yahoo.com
--- "J. Rion Bourgeois" wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion Bourgeois"
>
>
> I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy latch
> mechanism. I would like
> to use the standard latch mechanism in the plans,
> but it does not provide
> for a partially open position for ground operations.
> I have heard a rumor
> about a builder in the Seattle area who has designed
> a safety latch that
> allows use of the standard canopy latch and has a
> partially open position.
> Does anyone have his address and phone number or any
> suggested solutions?
> Thanx, Rion
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harris" <johnh(at)bellsouth.net> |
Any RV9 Builders should note there is an error on Drawing 7. (verified
by Ken at Vans on the phone).
To wit: The counterbalance skin goes between the ribs and main rudder skin.
John Harris
Cary, NC RV9A, N901RV(reserved)
DIgging out of 18 inches of snow and about to finish rudder riveting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Sounds neat and simple. However, if the pin slides backwards over the
canopy bulkhead, how do rescuers open the canopy to get you out? Got
pictures? Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> Hi J;
>
> I used a pin from the nautilus weight room that
> holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a hole in my
> roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a point on the
> entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches "above
> the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic bushings in
> the hole in the roll bar just like the ones for the
> rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could put a
> small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the end. Now
> I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy bulkhead
> on the ground and pull it back when I shut the canopy.
> It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The cool part
> is when the canopy is down, the pin slides backwards
> OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing opening if the
> canopy lock should fail. See ya.
>
> Rob Ray
> smokyray(at)yahoo.com
> --- "J. Rion Bourgeois" wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion Bourgeois"
> >
> >
> > I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy latch
> > mechanism. I would like
> > to use the standard latch mechanism in the plans,
> > but it does not provide
> > for a partially open position for ground operations.
> > I have heard a rumor
> > about a builder in the Seattle area who has designed
> > a safety latch that
> > allows use of the standard canopy latch and has a
> > partially open position.
> > Does anyone have his address and phone number or any
> > suggested solutions?
> > Thanx, Rion
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: How many cylinders to connect to the primer? |
Hi Steve
This is how I ran the primer lines on my 4.
Gascolator to a machanical primer (solenoid wasn't available...I would use
one now) to three cylinders. the fourth cylinder primer port is used for a
manifold pressure guage. I split the 1/8th copper line with a 1/8th An "T"
fitting at the rear of the engine and again on the left side. These
fittings are available from most compaines who sell fittings. I used an
aircraft flaring tool that was capable of flaring the small tube. It is
difficult to get good flares on the small copper tube, but I managed to get
them all done with no leaks. The system seems to work fine. I also have
seen flaring systems that use auto store brass fittings to accomplish the
splitting of the lines, in fact the engine in my 4 came out of a Piper and
had these fittings on it. Find a way to immoblise the fittings, so they
don't vibrate and break the copper lines, as well as the lines themselves.
There are two other RV's at our field here in Canada that have essentially
the same system. A good primer system is a necessity here if we want to fly
in the cooler part of the year.
Hope this helps.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
>I am now turning my titanic intellect to the question of how to install a
>primer to the cylinders of my carburetor-equipped O-320. My present plan
is
>to run the primer line from the primer port on my gascolator to an electric
>solenoid and then to the engine. I will turn on the electric fuel pump to
>pressurize the system and open the solenoid to let gas down the primer
>line(s).
>
>My problem: I don't have a clear idea of where to run the primer line(s)
to.
>Tony B appears to state that it is common to run a primer line to just one
>cylinder. I would think that it would be better to squirt the gas into
more
>than one.
>
>The first question is, therefore, is one cylinder enough?
>The second question is, if I should run that primer line to more than one
>cylinder, how do I split the 1/8 inch line into two or more separate lines?
>
>The third question is whether the copper priming line that Van's sells is
OK
>for this use. Some of the experts around here tell me that I should use
>only aluminum line.
>The fourth question is whether the little primer lines should be covered
>with some sort of extra small diameter firesleeve, or it this just to cover
>the flexible lines?
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>RV-6A
>Snow at last!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | In-flight troubleshooting, was: Source for fuse blocks that |
take auto fuses
Hi Bob,
I think we are going to have to agree to disagree, but no hard
feelings. I understand your desire to keep your options open. The
trick is to not get so caught up with troubleshooting the system that
you get distracted and screw something else up, or do something
stupid when troubleshooting, like replace a fuse with a bigger one,
and start an electrical fire. Let's not forget the airliner (1011?)
that went down in the Everglades one night many years ago because all
three crew members were focused on troubleshooting a burned out gear
down-and-locked green light, and no one was flying the aircraft.
I got a bit too focused on trying to sort out a an engine with a
compressor stall years ago. The engine in the single-engine jet was
still producing thrust, but not quite enough to maintain level
flight. I was trying to coax it to give me just a bit more thrust to
break my 300 ft/min descent, so I could get to the airport 10 miles
away. I got focused on trying different things with the engine, and
lost track of my altitude. I snapped out of it at about 500 ft, and
prepared to eject, only to see a big electrical sub-station just
ahead, with gazillion volt power lines going in every direction - not
a good place to come down in a parachute. I had to wait until the
other side of the power station before ejecting, and the altitude was
a lot lower than I would have liked. Bottom line - I got focused on
doing in-flight troubleshooting, and it almost cost me my life.
Be careful out there,
Kevin
>
>Hi Kevin,
>
>I have no problem with you or some of your points, but my point with the
>failure experience is that if you make your fusepanel inaccessible in
>flight, you lose the option to do some immediate troubleshooting. Something
>in my case was drawing more current than the fuse was rated for, and I
>replaced the fuse in flight and everything worked fine afterwards. This may
>have been an anomaly, but the worst thing I thought would happen was the
>other fuse would blow. If I remember correctly, in that Cherokee the panel
>lights were on the same circuit as the nav lights, so the fuse I replaced
>was of the same value as the pitot heat. I made sure the values were the
>same. You are right about redundancy in your systems, and I have many
>electrical items on their own circuits. My fuseblocks are attached to the
>right side of the cockpit below and behind the panel where they are easily
>reachable, and I like them there so I can at least try to fix something
>in-flight within reason to continue on safely.
>
>Bob Japundza
>
>
>The way I look at the world you are drawing the wrong lesson from
>this experience. What if you had a real short that took out the
>panel lights? Having the fuse accessible in flight wouldn't help at
>all. All it would do is let you make some more smoke.
>
>If panel lights is a required system, you need a backup. I plan on
>having panel lights on one fuse, and little flood lights (LEDs
>actually), on a separate fuse, powered from the emergency bus. If
>the panel lights die, I'll turn on the flood lights, and sort it out
>after I land. The same thing goes for any critical system (a system
>that is required for safe flight and landing). Landing and taxi
>lights on separate fuses, etc. If the failure will affect your
>ability to safely complete the flight, have a backup plan. Hoping
>you can change a fuse and bring a system back on line is not a great
>back up plan.
>
>Just my two cents worth.
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WIREING HARNESS |
I purchased Van's wiring harness, but can't comment on it because it is
still sitting in the box. However, for $2.50 or so Van's will sell you the
wiring drawing and instructions. This is dirt cheap for the amount of
information you get from this (which gage wire to use, where to cut holes
for the wiring to pass through, etc. etc. etc.). That's my 2 cents.
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A quickbuild
-----Original Message-----
From: Elrod3794(at)aol.com <Elrod3794(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 8:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: WIREING HARNESS
>
>NEED SOME GOOD INFO FOR WIRING RV 8. ANY GOOD BOOKS?
>ANY GOOD PRE FAB. WIRING HARNESS?
>THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
>MIKE ELROD RV8AQB
>GETTING TO MOUNT WINGS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters |
If you placed a small battery or no battery to load and filter the current
coming from alt it will be very noisy which tricks the 'cheap' meters into
false DC reading. Switch over to AC and see if you get a reading, if so
then there is lots of noise. Better yet look at it with the oscilloscope in
the 250ms setting and look for noise. You would be surprise and the noise
that comes from alternators.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WIREING HARNESS |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
You know that would be something they could post on their website(PDF file)
Shelby Smith
shelbysmith(at)mac.com
----------
>From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: WIREING HARNESS
>Date: Wed, Jan 26, 2000, 6:59 PM
>
>
> I purchased Van's wiring harness, but can't comment on it because it is
> still sitting in the box. However, for $2.50 or so Van's will sell you the
> wiring drawing and instructions. This is dirt cheap for the amount of
> information you get from this (which gage wire to use, where to cut holes
> for the wiring to pass through, etc. etc. etc.). That's my 2 cents.
> Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A quickbuild
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elrod3794(at)aol.com <Elrod3794(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 8:34 PM
> Subject: RV-List: WIREING HARNESS
>
>
>>
>>NEED SOME GOOD INFO FOR WIRING RV 8. ANY GOOD BOOKS?
>>ANY GOOD PRE FAB. WIRING HARNESS?
>>THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
>>MIKE ELROD RV8AQB
>>GETTING TO MOUNT WINGS
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane J. Achenbach" <vicki(at)ctaz.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 Firewall aft project |
My project is for sale. RV-3 firewall aft project. If you're tired of
building and would like to be flying sooner, this project may be what
you're looking for. Wing leading edge skins, one flap skin, one wing
tip, need replacing, lower cowl needs fiberglass repair. Have gear legs,
wheels, tires, brakes, seat pads, upper cowl, fuel tank, and other
parts. Aircraft has flown 265.7 hrs. Will be sold as parts. ($4700.00 or
reasonable offer takes it all) for details Call 520-680-6902 or e-mail
Jerry at (vicki(at)ctaz.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters |
>
>If you placed a small battery or no battery to load and filter the current
>coming from alt it will be very noisy which tricks the 'cheap' meters into
>false DC reading. Switch over to AC and see if you get a reading, if so
>then there is lots of noise. Better yet look at it with the oscilloscope in
>the 250ms setting and look for noise. You would be surprise and the noise
>that comes from alternators.
the ripple voltage left on a 3-phase alternator's rectified output
is about 5% of the average DC . . . for a 14v alternator this is
on the order of 700 mV peak to peak. Normally, this isn't a problem
for avionics or other accessories designed to run in vehicles
of any kind having an alternator/battery power system.
It's true that some digital meters are sensitive to this kind of
noise and will benefit from some filtering. The DC meter modules
I use the most have a 10 to 100 Megohm input impedance so adding
10K of series resistance in the meter's sense lead doesn't upset
the calibration much . . less than 0.1%. After the resistor
is added, you put a capacitor across the meter's input terminals,
anything 0.1 uF up to 10 uF is fine . . . 1.0 uF and larger tend
to be electrolytics so observe polarity.
This simple R/C filter will calm the little fellers down so that
their readings are accurate.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Lyc 0-320 (160 hp) parallel valve parts for sale |
To all,
I thought that this might be an opportunity for someone building up their
own engine, so please excuse the Ad. I have a short list of Lycoming engine
parts that are for sale. They came out of my engine after a valve spring
failure turned up other problems with the reconditioned cylinders. I would
like to sell the whole lot at one time, but may consider other offers. The
parts are all cleaned up (glass bead blasted and solvent cleaned), and are
in the listed condition.
Qty Description Condition
4 ea. Pistons (standard size) 40 hours, within new limits (almost
new)
4 ea. Intake valves 40 hours, within new limits (almost new)
2 ea. Exhaust valves 40 hours, within service limits
4 ea. Rocker shafts hours unknown, within service limits
2 ea. Pushrods P/N 73413 hours unknown, within service limits
1 lot Valve springs 3 cylinder sets 40 hours (for angle valve cylinders)
within service limits
1 lot Spring caps and seats hours unknown, within service limits
Price: $150.00 takes all you pay shipping.
For sale separately: 4 0-320 nitrided cylinders beyond service limits, need
chrome, 2 with cracked heads, rocker bushings worn on all. Good for cores
only. All 4 for $60 you pay shipping.
Dan Morris
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tank attach platenuts |
After a couple of sessions of deburring & fluting, my right wing ribs (I'm
doing one wing at a time, starting with the right) are ready to go. The
manual says to install the tank attach platenuts on the top flange of the
main spar before drilling the ribs on. So far, so good. The question is:
how & when are the platenuts on the bottom flange located? They're not
pre-punched, so do I back drill them through the holes in the tank skin once
it's cinched down to the spar with the plastic strapping? That's not
supposed to happen until after the ribs are drilled on. Maybe install the
top platenuts now, drill & cleco the ribs on, cinch the tank skin down, back
drill the holes for the bottom platenuts, take everything apart and install
the bottom platenuts before riveting it all together. Does that make sense?
Maybe I've just been doing too much fluting today...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: In-flight troubleshooting |
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>I think we are going to have to agree to disagree, but no hard
>feelings. I understand your desire to keep your options open. The
>trick is to not get so caught up with troubleshooting the system that
>you get distracted and screw something else up, or do something
>stupid when troubleshooting, like replace a fuse with a bigger one,
>and start an electrical fire. Let's not forget the airliner (1011?)
>that went down in the Everglades one night many years ago because all
>three crew members were focused on troubleshooting a burned out gear
>down-and-locked green light, and no one was flying the aircraft.
My all time favorite example of the greatest aviation snafu . . .
>I got a bit too focused on trying to sort out a an engine with a
>compressor stall years ago. The engine in the single-engine jet was
>still producing thrust, but not quite enough to maintain level
>flight. I was trying to coax it to give me just a bit more thrust to
>break my 300 ft/min descent, so I could get to the airport 10 miles
>away. I got focused on trying different things with the engine, and
>lost track of my altitude. I snapped out of it at about 500 ft, and
>prepared to eject, only to see a big electrical sub-station just
>ahead, with gazillion volt power lines going in every direction - not
>a good place to come down in a parachute. I had to wait until the
>other side of the power station before ejecting, and the altitude was
>a lot lower than I would have liked. Bottom line - I got focused on
>doing in-flight troubleshooting, and it almost cost me my life.
There's a difference between troubleshooting things that you only
have one-of (engines, controls, etc.) and trouble shooting things
that you SHOULD have two-of. The vast majority of failures in
goodies like turn coordinator, panel lights, primary nav
radios, and transponders are NOT trouble-shootable . . . so why
launch into the blue with any mindset that suggests doing so MIGHT
be a good idea? The butt-saving capabilities of these devices
need backups . . . meaning these fall into the category of
having TWO. Everything else is handy to have but has little
to contribute to a no-sweat flight. Even your own example
of systems diagnostics distractions could have ended differently.
When the low volts light comes on, flipping two switches
is all it takes to get into the get-me-home-comfortably
mode . . . you don't even have to take your eyes down
from the horizon. If anything else craps, you should either
not need it or it's backed up. Again, not a scenario for
a hair-raising tale to be immortalized on the pages of
Flying magazine. I'll judge that with a little advance
planning and considered preventative maintenance, 99% of
all electrical failures tales in those magazines need not
have been written. Not something the spam-can driver is encouraged
or even allowed to do. Now the guys building RVs ???? It's
a much different matter.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank attach platenuts |
>
>After a couple of sessions of deburring & fluting, my right wing ribs (I'm
>doing one wing at a time, starting with the right) are ready to go. The
>manual says to install the tank attach platenuts on the top flange of the
>main spar before drilling the ribs on. So far, so good. The question is:
>how & when are the platenuts on the bottom flange located? They're not
>pre-punched, so do I back drill them through the holes in the tank skin once
>it's cinched down to the spar with the plastic strapping? That's not
>supposed to happen until after the ribs are drilled on. Maybe install the
>top platenuts now, drill & cleco the ribs on, cinch the tank skin down, back
>drill the holes for the bottom platenuts, take everything apart and install
>the bottom platenuts before riveting it all together. Does that make sense?
>Maybe I've just been doing too much fluting today...
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
Ken,
You don't want to cinch the tank skins on now, as the skeleton is not
strong enough to take the loads. It gets a lot stiffer once the
skins are clecoed on.
So, rivet the ribs, drill and cleco the skins, drill and cleco the
O/B leading edge, drill and cleco the tanks, then drill the lower
platenut holes. I drilled them to #30, and did the final drilling
after the tank was all finished. It was not too hard to rivet the
lower platenuts on at the end. I was careful to get the inner few at
a good angle to facilitate riveting. In some cases it seemed to make
sense to use a different angle than that shown on the drawings. Just
think about riveting access when you drill the rivet holes, thats all.
Take care,
Kevin
Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>>This is another advantage of the solidstate protection devices. They won't
>>>reset unless the short is removed so you don't have to worry about welded
>>>contacts(circuit breaker) or inflight fires from putting in a fuse that is
>>>over rated by accident.
>>
>> . . . hazards that are more fiction than fact . . .
>
> what part are you saying is fiction?
>
Circuit breaker contacts don't weld. Fuses that are not fiddled
with in flight don't suffer mis-sizing accidents.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rv-list:GPS and Map Compatability |
Listers,
Thanks to everyone who gave input about my GPS and Map question.
Yesterday I went to Pacific Coast Avionics and posed my questions to them.
Here is what I found.
1 The IImorrow SL-60 will work fine with the Allied Signal Skyforce Tracker
or even the Skyforce GPS/Map. You can turn the GPS function of the Skyforce
unit off and use the SL-60 GPS engine or turn it on and use it's own GPS
engine.
2 The Skymaps have been selling like hotcakes lately since they reduced the
price to $1995, $1795 for the Tracker version without GPS(was $2295). This
is the Skymap IIIc with color map. That's right, the GPS engine adds only
$200 to the cost. I played with it a bit in the shop and was impressed with
it's capability and intuitive operation. Although I've never used a GPS
before (so maybe I'm easily impressed) I found it easy to use and also that
it had comparable functions to the SL-60 GPS features although I couldn't
tell that from the advertisements I had seen....IImorrow seems to do a better
job of listing the features in their ads.
3 As one of you posted earlier, going with the SL-40 Com radio and a
GPS/Map is cheaper and offers the flexibility of a portable GPS/Map. Its at
least a thousand dollars cheaper even if I pay asking price on both units.
4 It appears that the SL-40 Comm radio will interface with the Skyforce GPS
to nominate frequencies along my route. Not fully confirmed yet, but a
possibility. This was one of the things I liked about the SL-60 GPS/Com
unit. Didn't think that would be possible unless I went with a GPS/Com unit.
I could go with the Garmin 295 color GPS/Map too for less money but I like
the Skyforce system for mounting in the panel on a rack... and still being
fully portable in 30 seconds. Bottom line I think it looks better in my
panel configuration. Maps a little bigger too.
Haven't spent any money yet but I'm pretty drawn to the SL-40 plus
Skymap IIIc combination. My flying will be VFR with no plan for IFR later so
this seems like a relatively inexpensive and elegant solution for me.
Thanks to all whose input helped me sort though this far.
Regards,
Dale Wotring
RV6A (panel and finish stuff)
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
> >The way I look at the world you are drawing the wrong lesson from
> >this experience. What if you had a real short that took out the
> >panel lights? Having the fuse accessible in flight wouldn't help
> > at all. All it would do is let you make some more smoke.
[snip]
And Aero-Bob said:
>
> You got an A+ on that exam!
>
Uh-oh, I guess I get a D....
I had the panel rheostat smoke once, during the day. Funny smell, a little
smoke, but was definitely freaked out for a second before I looked at the
breakers and SAW that the panel dimmer breaker was popped. Made me feel much
better seeing the popped breaker which told me A) that it wasn't anything I
needed at the moment (it was daylight) and B) that the reason for the smoke
had been more or less "corrected" by the breaker popping. It could be argued
that I should have landed anyway but the smoke and smell cleared rapidly so
I didn't, and either way I feel that the breaker prevented a possible panic
situation.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (in the paint shop)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EXPERIMENTAL call signs to ATC |
In a message dated 1/26/00 11:00:25 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
<< Thanks for clearing up the gray area of identifying yourself to Approach
and Tower. However, I am unfamiliar with HXA, HXB..., etc. and in
Florida, no controller has ever asked my "class". I had been
taught to tell controllers your "approach category" when they ask for
speed (ie, Class A = less than 91 KIAS thru Class E = 166 KIAS or
more--based on 1.3 Vso at gross weight) >>
Actually all this HXB stuff is just so much baloney now that the official
contractions manual lists most Van's aircraft by their own designations RV3,
RV4, RV6. RV-6As are RV6s as far as the FAA is concerned (they don't care
where the training wheel is--we're all butt draggers to them).
-GV RV6/U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:fuselage support |
Listers:
My thinking cells are going into overload with this one. (maybe it's old age
catching up). I am ready to start installing the gear leg fairings and wheel
pants. In order to do this I need to lift the fuselage off the ground so the
legs are unloaded. I have the engine installed and so the fuselage is
getting heavy. I want to lift the fuselage just under the main spar hole but
realise that the tail will be too light to balance out the weight. I think
that a couple sand bags will do the trick but would appreciate some input
from those of you who have been there and done that. Does any one have
pictures of the jig that will hold a mostly completed airframe less wings
off the ground?
I sure would like to get this part done. I'm getting close enough to seeing
the project completed now.
Thanks in advance,
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
. If indeed the rubbers are shot
>you could tell by the sag...at any rate the rubbers are very cheap (wag
aero
>among others) for the conical motor.
Please don't use the cheap rubber mounts!! I have a set I will give you
free ( you pay postage) I went through 4 years of engine roughness, damn
near tore the engine apart, changed carbs, had the prop. checked and they
couldn't improve on it ( done at 2500 RPM).
The roughness showed up below 2500 rpm and also very noticeable on final
when power was being reduced to maintain 85-90 mph. In Oct. 98 Mark Todd
and Mike Seager helped me (through this list) pin down my problem.
DON'T USE THE CHEAP ENGINE MOUNTS WITH THE CONICAL ENGINE MOUNT!
Bite the bullet and buy the Lord 6230-1 mounts ( my engine is a
0 320 B3B ) with the Hartzell C/S. I cannot speak for other conical mount
lycoming models or if this problem would not occur with a wooden prop. but
if you are using my combination save yourself a lot of grief and get the
correct mounts. You wouldn't believe you were flying in the same airplane.
An aside, the only cowling hinge pin that broke was the pilot side cowl
cheek hinge. All top, side,and bottom pins still okay after 300 hours.
Fly Safely
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. Temp. 32 , 15" of snow on the lawn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Aileron deflection angles |
Bob,
The aileron bellcrank is designed to give a differential action to
the ailerons. For the same amount of movement of the pushrod from
the stick, you get a lot more aileron up travel than you get down
travel on the other side. In the final assembly stage, you may have
to fine tune the differential action by adjusting the length of the
various pushrods, which changes the neutral position of the
bellcrank, which changes how much differential action you get.
This will make a lot more sense once you can play with some hardware.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
>Dave,
>
> I got 30 degrees without any opening of the hole. I wonder how you limit
>the travel down to anything less than 30 since the ailerons link through the
>stick. Maybe there's some geometry
>there that I'm missing. I haven't started on the fuselage yet so I don't
>know how the linkage
>works there.
>
> Bob
>RV8 #423 working on right wing.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>RV-8 guys,
>
>While enlarging the hole in rear spar for the aileron pushrod, I needed to
>determine the correct amount of aileron deflection. Bill at Vans gave a
>design limit of 32 degrees up and 17 degrees down and a minimum acceptable
>limit of 25 degrees up and 15 degrees down.
>
>My aileron only deflects a maximum of 28 degrees up without and kind of
>aileron stop installed (bolt on the aileron bracket hitting the aileron
>hinge, absolute maximum travel). I am afraid that with the aileron stops
>installed that I am only going to get between 25 to 27 degrees of up aileron
>travel.
>
>How much travel are other RV-8 guys getting?
>
>Thanks
>David Grover
Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal measuring balance |
Excellent suggestion. I think I would prefer to hang something from
single points on the balance arms to be certain that the ratio is
unaffected by the position of the goop. The 11 'calibrated' bolts idea
is perfect.
Thanks,
Doug
>
>
> Here is a simplistic way.
> Get a stick between 12 and 20 inches long. Tape, nail or glue a 3 inch
> pad on each end. Get eleven bolts or nuts or some such of that weigh the
> same. Put ten on one pad and the last one on the other pad. Now balance
> the stick on something so that it sits level with the world. Many ways to
> do this.
> Now take the bolts or nuts off the pads. Replace the one bolt with the
> black stuff and the ten bolts with the white stuff. 10:1
> Me??? I use a very accurate balance beam at the office that I mix ink on.
> Cecil Hatfield
> Thousand Oaks, CA
>
> >>Can someone tell me where I can find a picture of the 10:1 balance to
> >>weigh out the proseal?
> >>
> >>Doug Gray
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Primer lines/manifold press. |
Would it not be possible to connect the manifold pressure guage
somewhere else, such as into one of the intake tubes, allowing all four
primer lines to be used? Seems a small fitting could be tig-welded near
the cyl head for this. One of my favorite stories from "Great American
Fighter Pilots of WWII" I read as a kid was about a P-51 pilot that got
his fuel pump shot up over Europe, and literally wore his hand down to
the bone using the manual primer to return to England. Using all four
primer lines and a manual primer might make a useable backup in the
event of fuel pump and electrical failure (however unlikely). I'm a
long way from having to do this, but this thread's got me thinking...(oh
no!)
From the PossumWorks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I'm wiring right now. FWIW, I would buy the wiring kit. I decided to save
money and buy the wire and fittings, etc. I can't tell you how many times I
have discovered that I don't have the right length of the right size wire.
This means that I have to stop what I'm doing and place yet another order to
Wick's for the right wire or whatever.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----However, for $2.50 or so Van's
will sell you the
wiring drawing and instructions. This is dirt cheap for the
amount of
information you get from this (which gage wire to use, where
to cut holes
for the wiring to pass through, etc. etc. etc.).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johnny Johnson <johnnypaj(at)juno.com> |
GV says:
<<<< Volume resistivity in ESD control measures x<1X10
5 ohms/sq as
conductive, 1X10
5>>>
Gee, I'd always wondered about that.... :=))
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3A flying (well.. not much lately, it's been 20 below..)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chatter/RV Speed Hints |
Yes Larry that's true, but: ain't it GREAT .
FAA inspection done flying soon N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy latch |
I will get the data from my builders folder tonight. stay tuned.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters |
I was very surprised on the qualitity of the digital meters. I borrowed a whole
lot of cheepie $20.00 to 60.00$ meters from folks at work ant my cheepies &
good Fluke brand meter. Hooked up to the terminals of a battery... all 10
meters cooking..... the variance in the voltage was close to three volts on a
battery with reading of 12.4 volts.
I tried the mower battery, motercycle battery & a spare car battery all with the
same results. What was really surprising the old Simpson & Lafayette analog
meters (needle swing)..when I got real close to the meter face & could read a
voltage to about .5 volt which about half of the cheepie digitals gave me worse
(in accuracy) readings. All this was found by accident. I wanted to see that the
regulator would regulate. I hooked up a digiatal meter and the voltage was rock
solid on the test alternator rig I made up. What got me to experimenting was the
concord battery the Vans sells. I wanted to be sure I was charging at the rate
that Elect. Bob told me was the correct voltage for that kind of
battery......this lead me to the digital voltage test sequence. This is why my
aircraft is taking so long to build...what little time after work I get I start
playing around with diversions like this one & then the night dissapears.....
cengland(at)netdoor.com on 01/26/2000 03:47:10 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> The VR166 solution worked for me two weeks ago. Being annal retentative &
took
> my regulator & alternator (35 amp Mark Landrol with 4 inch pulley) home ,
> clamped the alt. to the table saw , ran the belt around alt. & lit the whole
> mess up. Worked 100%.
>
> What was interesting was the variance in digital voltage meters I saw. I ended
> up borrowing 6 meters from work & the 4 from home & only two of the 10 meters
> showed the same voltage.... I am talking about up to 2.8 volts variance in
> digital readouts .........
What kind of battery did you have on the alt.? With minimal filtering by
the battery it's not surprising to see that, but if you had a full sized
battery on line even the 'cheapies' should be more accurate than that.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
God forbid if you ever crash landed, your pin (as described) would prevent help
personnel from extracting you from you aircraft. They could beat their way to
you but that would take time & your head is just 2 inches from the canopy.
smokyray(at)yahoo.com on 01/26/2000 06:45:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
Hi J;
I used a pin from the nautilus weight room that
holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a hole in my
roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a point on the
entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches "above
the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic bushings in
the hole in the roll bar just like the ones for the
rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could put a
small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the end. Now
I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy bulkhead
on the ground and pull it back when I shut the canopy.
It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The cool part
is when the canopy is down, the pin slides backwards
OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing opening if the
canopy lock should fail. See ya.
Rob Ray
smokyray(at)yahoo.com
--- "J. Rion Bourgeois" wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion Bourgeois"
>
>
> I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy latch
> mechanism. I would like
> to use the standard latch mechanism in the plans,
> but it does not provide
> for a partially open position for ground operations.
> I have heard a rumor
> about a builder in the Seattle area who has designed
> a safety latch that
> allows use of the standard canopy latch and has a
> partially open position.
> Does anyone have his address and phone number or any
> suggested solutions?
> Thanx, Rion
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters |
Greg, your right. The Scope showed noise and that triggers the cheap meters to
indicate false readings. I used a big old car battery as my "filter capacitor"
and the noise in was abaited.
gyachts(at)kans.com on 01/26/2000 07:55:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters
If you placed a small battery or no battery to load and filter the current
coming from alt it will be very noisy which tricks the 'cheap' meters into
false DC reading. Switch over to AC and see if you get a reading, if so
then there is lots of noise. Better yet look at it with the oscilloscope in
the 250ms setting and look for noise. You would be surprise and the noise
that comes from alternators.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Belmore" <ian.belmore(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer lines/manifold press. |
Mark
Most recent Lycoming cylinders do have 2 ports in them. I also am planning
a 4 port primer system for the very reason you mention so I just removed the
other blanking plug (#1102) from my #3 cylinder to add a manifold pressure
pick up. It should not be necessary to do any welding. email me direct if
you need any more info.
Regards
Ian
RV6 G-RVIB
Fitting Canopy
http://www.belmorerentals.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 2:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Primer lines/manifold press.
>
> Would it not be possible to connect the manifold pressure guage
> somewhere else, such as into one of the intake tubes, allowing all four
> primer lines to be used? Seems a small fitting could be tig-welded near
> the cyl head for this. One of my favorite stories from "Great American
> Fighter Pilots of WWII" I read as a kid was about a P-51 pilot that got
> his fuel pump shot up over Europe, and literally wore his hand down to
> the bone using the manual primer to return to England. Using all four
> primer lines and a manual primer might make a useable backup in the
> event of fuel pump and electrical failure (however unlikely). I'm a
> long way from having to do this, but this thread's got me thinking...(oh
> no!)
>
> From the PossumWorks
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing/Conical Mounts |
Re-posted for future search/hits
ve7fp(at)jetstream.net on 01/26/2000 11:36:13 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
: Re: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>
>
. If indeed the rubbers are shot
>you could tell by the sag...at any rate the rubbers are very cheap (wag
aero
>among others) for the conical motor.
Please don't use the cheap rubber mounts!! I have a set I will give you
free ( you pay postage) I went through 4 years of engine roughness, damn
near tore the engine apart, changed carbs, had the prop. checked and they
couldn't improve on it ( done at 2500 RPM).
The roughness showed up below 2500 rpm and also very noticeable on final
when power was being reduced to maintain 85-90 mph. In Oct. 98 Mark Todd
and Mike Seager helped me (through this list) pin down my problem.
DON'T USE THE CHEAP ENGINE MOUNTS WITH THE CONICAL ENGINE MOUNT!
Bite the bullet and buy the Lord 6230-1 mounts ( my engine is a
0 320 B3B ) with the Hartzell C/S. I cannot speak for other conical mount
lycoming models or if this problem would not occur with a wooden prop. but
if you are using my combination save yourself a lot of grief and get the
correct mounts. You wouldn't believe you were flying in the same airplane.
An aside, the only cowling hinge pin that broke was the pilot side cowl
cheek hinge. All top, side,and bottom pins still okay after 300 hours.
Fly Safely
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. Temp. 32 , 15" of snow on the lawn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank attach platenuts |
In a message dated 1/26/2000 10:27:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
> Ken,
>
> You don't want to cinch the tank skins on now, as the skeleton is not
> strong enough to take the loads. It gets a lot stiffer once the
> skins are clecoed on.
>
> So, rivet the ribs, drill and cleco the skins, drill and cleco the
> O/B leading edge, drill and cleco the tanks, then drill the lower
> platenut holes. I drilled them to #30, and did the final drilling
> after the tank was all finished. It was not too hard to rivet the
> lower platenuts on at the end. I was careful to get the inner few at
> a good angle to facilitate riveting. In some cases it seemed to make
> sense to use a different angle than that shown on the drawings. Just
> think about riveting access when you drill the rivet holes, thats all.
>
> Take care,
>
> Kevin
Sounds like a plan. The steps are pretty much in the order I imagined, with
the exception of drilling and clecoing on the skins to provide the skeleton
with necessary stiffness. I wish I'd thought about it a little longer before
clogging bandwidth. It should have been obvious. Oh, well -- it probably
won't be the last time. :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
| Subject: | The fuel primer system that almost was. |
I bought one of those cool primer solenoids from ACS, plus all the fittings
and tubing to make a three-cylinder primer system. I installed the pushbutton
switch in the cockpit and ran the lines into the engine compartment.
I then spoke with one of my friends with an opinion on everything and
the credentials to back it up (10,000 hr. ATP, A&P, IA, CFII, Completed
RV-6, etc.) His advice was to leave the primer system out of the plane.
Since the carburetor on my O-320 has a built in pump to spray fuel into
the intake manifold, it was likely I would have no starting troubles
except in the coldest conditions. Therefore the addition of a bunch
of copper tubing in the engine compartment filled with AVGAS was unnecessary.
I have about 500 hours in Cessna 172 airplanes and can't remember the
last time I needed a primer to start the engine (here in Southern California).
I also thought about the Electric Bob argument of using the primer system
to keep the engine running. Although Bob is the author of my electric
system (God Bless him) I determined that the incident he refers too was
one of those 10
-9 events.
So, I left the wiring in, removed the switch and put a hole plug in the
panel, removed the solenoid, put plugs in the cylinder primer holes,
and we'll see if I need a primer system. If I do then all the under-the-panel
work is done and I can install it later.
--
John Allen
Moving to the airport for final assembly
fliier(at)onebox.com - email
Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:fuselage support |
If the wings are off like you indicated then run a piece of wood laminated to
the proper thickness thru the spar plate area of the fuse. Get some metal saw
horses & suspend the fuse from the wood outriggers. Use the spar bolts to
secure to the fuse.
dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net on 01/27/2000 12:45:35 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List:fuselage support
Listers:
My thinking cells are going into overload with this one. (maybe it's old age
catching up). I am ready to start installing the gear leg fairings and wheel
pants. In order to do this I need to lift the fuselage off the ground so the
legs are unloaded. I have the engine installed and so the fuselage is
getting heavy. I want to lift the fuselage just under the main spar hole but
realise that the tail will be too light to balance out the weight. I think
that a couple sand bags will do the trick but would appreciate some input
from those of you who have been there and done that. Does any one have
pictures of the jig that will hold a mostly completed airframe less wings
off the ground?
I sure would like to get this part done. I'm getting close enough to seeing
the project completed now.
Thanks in advance,
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Todd <motodd(at)pol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Conical engine Lord mounts (was: Prop Balancing) |
Ken Hoshowski wrote:
"...
DON'T USE THE CHEAP ENGINE MOUNTS WITH THE CONICAL ENGINE MOUNT!
Bite the bullet and buy the Lord 6230-1 mounts ( my engine is a
0 320 B3B ) with the Hartzell C/S. I cannot speak for other conical
mount lycoming models or if this problem would not occur with a wooden
prop. but if you are using my combination save yourself a lot of grief
and get the correct mounts. You wouldn't believe you were flying in the
same airplane...."
Just a quick follow-up report on the Lord 6230-1 mounts in my RV4 (160
HP Hartzell CS much like Ken's). I now have 250+ hours on these mounts
(lots of +5/-1G acro) and haven't felt any loss of the vastly superior
dampening qualities so far. I'm encouraged that they will last a
reasonable amount of time.
Obviously, dynamic prop balancing comes first, but even with my prop/
engine balanced to 0.14 ips, the benefit of the Lord mounts was
dramatic.
Personally, I will never go back to the "cheap" conical bushings. Not
so cheap when you consider I was replacing them every 150-200 hrs!
Mark
RV4 owner
KAWO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The fuel primer system that almost was. |
All I'll add is there's a big difference starting an airplane in Southern
California than in the frozen tundra of the Midwest. I've never been able
to get one started in the winter without a primer of some sort. I'm sure it
can be done, but it's a whole lot easier with a primer.
Using the accelerator pump on the carb is another matter completely. This
is not a very good substitute for a primer. It may work in cooler weather,
but it doesn't put the fuel where it needs to be (in the cylinders). It
also opens up the possibility of backfiring and pooling of fuel in the
intake. Again, it can be done, is done, and all without problems. But with
some risk.
As with all decisions on our birds, follow those that make sense for your
particular application and discard those that don't .
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting"
>
>snip
>
>I then spoke with one of my friends with an opinion on everything and
>the credentials to back it up (10,000 hr. ATP, A&P, IA, CFII, Completed
>RV-6, etc.) His advice was to leave the primer system out of the plane.
>Since the carburetor on my O-320 has a built in pump to spray fuel into
>the intake manifold, it was likely I would have no starting troubles
>except in the coldest conditions. Therefore the addition of a bunch
>of copper tubing in the engine compartment filled with AVGAS was
unnecessary.
>
>snip
>--
>John Allen
>Moving to the airport for final assembly
>fliier(at)onebox.com - email
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | SourceRV Content |
To all the sourceRV subscribers out there. sourceRV has made a special "6th
Issue" of the RVator avaliable that will not be avaliable to regular
subscribers until after February.
Thought I'd pass it along.
Mike Nellis (N699BM) reserved
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
Plainfield, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | DFW seminar date set . . . |
Program date for George and Becky's hangar in Ft. Worth has been
set for June 3/4
See http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The fuel primer system that almost was. |
Hi One word of caution;if you over pump the throttle and get a bunch of
fuel in the induction system and the eng. backfires you can get one H--- of
a carb. fire.Not likely but possible. Ollie-RV6-A Flying Tampa
----- Original Message -----
From: John Allen <fliier(at)onebox.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 11:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: The fuel primer system that almost was.
>
> I bought one of those cool primer solenoids from ACS, plus all the
fittings
> and tubing to make a three-cylinder primer system. I installed the
pushbutton
> switch in the cockpit and ran the lines into the engine compartment.
>
> I then spoke with one of my friends with an opinion on everything and
> the credentials to back it up (10,000 hr. ATP, A&P, IA, CFII, Completed
> RV-6, etc.) His advice was to leave the primer system out of the plane.
> Since the carburetor on my O-320 has a built in pump to spray fuel into
> the intake manifold, it was likely I would have no starting troubles
> except in the coldest conditions. Therefore the addition of a bunch
> of copper tubing in the engine compartment filled with AVGAS was
unnecessary.
>
>
> I have about 500 hours in Cessna 172 airplanes and can't remember the
> last time I needed a primer to start the engine (here in Southern
California).
>
> I also thought about the Electric Bob argument of using the primer system
> to keep the engine running. Although Bob is the author of my electric
> system (God Bless him) I determined that the incident he refers too was
> one of those 10
-9 events.
>
> So, I left the wiring in, removed the switch and put a hole plug in the
> panel, removed the solenoid, put plugs in the cylinder primer holes,
> and we'll see if I need a primer system. If I do then all the
under-the-panel
> work is done and I can install it later.
>
> --
> John Allen
> Moving to the airport for final assembly
> fliier(at)onebox.com - email
>
>
> Sign Up Now! http://www.onebox.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | skin priming for unpainted RV |
I have searched the archives but couldn't find an answer to this question.
I would like to keep the option of not using a colored top coat on the
exterior of my RV although I would probably use a clear coating like an
Airstream trailer to keep polishing to a minimum. I am about to start my
first priming session on the H.S. parts using the 3 step etch/alodine/epoxy
primer system. I will use the tinted alodine on the skeleton and I was
planning on using clear alodine on the inside of the skins so that if any
dripped through the dimpled holes, it would not stain the exterior. Should I
etch and clear alodine both sides of the skin or try to keep everything off
the exterior as much as possible? If I get any epoxy primer overspray on the
exterior, will I be able to remove it without destroying the alclad surface?
I am using a MIL-P-23377F Type I Class 1 yellow primer applied with a Sharpe
Cobalt HVLP gun.
Chris Heitman
RV-9A
Just finished building paint booth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Engine monitor |
Just in case anyone else might be interested I am forwarding the Engine
Monitor information I received from Rob Hickman. I liked the looks of his
engine monitor and requested info. The monitor may be viewed here:
http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/index.html
<http://hometown.aol.com/robhickman/index.html>
Here's the info:
-----Original Message-----
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com <mailto:RobHickman(at)aol.com>
[SMTP:RobHickman(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: Engine monitor
ACS 2000
Aircraft Monitoring System
The ACS 2000 is a complete aircraft monitoring and data acquisition system
designed for aircraft with a 4 or 6 cylinder engine.
The system continuously monitors and displays all of the aircraft engine
data on a 4.7" DMTM active matrix LCD display. The system is constantly
checking the current engine readings against user adjustable set points. If
any of the engine readings are out of the limits a bright yellow or red LED
will start blinking indicating a Caution or Warning fault and the affected
gauge will flash. The display is completely sunlight readable and has an
adjustable backlight for night operations. Unlike most LCD displays the
screen is viewable from almost any angle in the aircraft.
Unlike other systems, the display can be customized to the user's
preference. Any of the standard instruments can be eliminated or added to
the screen. The system also supports two different instrument
configurations: analog and digital or digital only.
Also unique to the ACS 2000 is the user check lists and parameters that can
be adjusted using the supplied PC software and PC to ACS 2000 communication
cable.
Engine Functions Range
Manifold Pressure 0 to 31.0 inhg
RPM 0 to 3500 rpm
Fuel PSI 0 to 50 psi
GPH 0 to 30 gph
Oil PSI 0 to 100 psi
Oil Temperature 20 to 250 F
Volts 8 to 30 V
Amps 0 to 100 amps
Outside Air Temp -50 F to 125 F
Exhaust Gas Temperature 200 to 1800 F
Cylinder Head Temperature 100 to 600 F
% Power 0 to 100 %
Carburetor Temperature 20 to 40 F
Tachometer Time
Hobbs Time
Fuel Tank Functions
The fuel tank levels are calibrated on installation in 2 gallon increments
to correct for sender position. The fuel gauges store two calibration
tables, one for plane level and one for tail down. Unlike other instruments
the fuel gauges will read correct for a tail wheel airplane when it is on
the ground as well as in level flight.
Tank Left Level
Tank Right Level
Gallons Used
Gallons Left
Aircraft Functions
Flap Position
Elevator Trim Position
Aileron Position
4 user inputs
Canopy Latched
User 2
User 3
User 4
Flight Time
Local Time
GMT Time
4 User Check Lists with 10 items each
Features
Separate data processing module for easy wiring
1" Deep remote screen unit
EGT/CHT Bar Chart or Digital Display
Price
Estimated price is approximately $3000 including sensors
Current Status
The first system has been flying for over 25 hours in our RV-4 with great
success. I am currently installing a second system in an RV-6A for further
testing. We are currently working on adding the % power function to the
first system for further testing. We are also currently working on solid
needles for the instruments.
Delivery
July 2000
Rob Hickman
Advanced Control Systems Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank attach platenuts |
Ken,
You are not clogging anything. I am finishing up my spar and getting ready to
do
the same thing you are doing. The response that Kevin Horton gave will in all
likelihood save me a great deal of time as he outlined the process. If nothing
else, it will offer me a good feeling of security that I had the sequence right.
Most of us "novice" builders have a lot of the same questions. Your question to
the list may have saved me one later.
Thanks,
Keith Hughes
RV-6 wings
Parker (snow covered!), CO
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
> Sounds like a plan. The steps are pretty much in the order I imagined, with
> the exception of drilling and clecoing on the skins to provide the skeleton
> with necessary stiffness. I wish I'd thought about it a little longer before
> clogging bandwidth. It should have been obvious. Oh, well -- it probably
> won't be the last time. :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conical engine Lord mounts (was: Prop Balancing) |
>
>
> Ken Hoshowski wrote:
> "...
> DON'T USE THE CHEAP ENGINE MOUNTS WITH THE CONICAL
> ENGINE MOUNT!
> Bite the bullet and buy the Lord 6230-1 mounts ( my
> engine is a
> 0 320 B3B ) with the Hartzell C/S. I cannot speak
> for other conical
> mount lycoming models or if this problem would not
> occur with a wooden
> prop. but if you are using my combination save
> yourself a lot of grief
> and get the correct mounts. You wouldn't believe
> you were flying in the
> same airplane...."
>
> Just a quick follow-up report on the Lord 6230-1
> mounts in my RV4 (160
> HP Hartzell CS much like Ken's). I now have 250+
> hours on these mounts
> (lots of +5/-1G acro) and haven't felt any loss of
> the vastly superior
> dampening qualities so far. I'm encouraged that
> they will last a
> reasonable amount of time.
>
> Obviously, dynamic prop balancing comes first, but
> even with my prop/
> engine balanced to 0.14 ips, the benefit of the Lord
> mounts was
> dramatic.
>
> Personally, I will never go back to the "cheap"
> conical bushings. Not
> so cheap when you consider I was replacing them
> every 150-200 hrs!
>
> Mark
> RV4 owner
> KAWO
>
I am using the CHEAP Lycoming part number conical
mounts O-320 B2B and I am having NO problem. Hartzell
Prop was balanced after 180 hours. I do not have any
sagging or vibration problem. Where were you getting
these cheap non-Lycoming conical mount bushings? My
Lycoming part number bushings came from Wag-Aero as
they had the BEST price (~$25 for the set). Where are
you purchasing the Lord part number and how much?
This is the first I have hear of someone getting
imitation Lycoming bushings. Everyone that I know
that have used the Lycoming part number bushings have
not had these problems.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The fuel primer system that almost was. |
From: John Allen <fliier(at)onebox.com>
: Thursday, January 27, 2000 4:46 PM
The fuel primer system that almost was.
>I bought one of those cool primer solenoids from ACS, plus all the fittings
>and tubing to make a three-cylinder primer system. >So, I left the wiring
in, removed the switch and put a hole plug in the
>>John Allen
John: If you ever go anywhere that a primer is needed, please do not depend
on the accelerator pump to start the engine. A friend of mine attempted a
cool weather start on a 150hp Lyc that way and set fire to the engine
(Mustang II). Fortunately he recognized what was happening, was able to
exit the aircraft, run for a fire extinguisher and put out the fire. The
cowl needed repair. Fortunately the engine and other mechanicals did not.
If you have ever watched one of those carbs squirt you can see that some of
the fuel comes straight back down into the airbox. Cranking while you pump
might help but the risk is not insignificant.
Additionally, I found that 3 cylinder priming with the solenoid and Facet
fuel pump to work better than 4. Don't know why but suspect that in my
system, with 1/8th inch lines from the valve, the nozzle pressure is too low
when 4 lines are being fed.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
Listers
I have received alot of caps. I had planned on getting started on them
monday but I have had a death in the family so want be able to start until
after this weekend. Sorry if this causes any problems but couldn't be helped.
Thanks to all who sent them in.
Thanks
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
I placed my fuse blocks on the rear wall of the baggage compartment (front)
and it will have a clear plexi cover. Obviously can't get to it in flight.
To resolve the problem below, the panel lights are off the main buss and
then I used the Aeroelectric map lights from an independent source - the
essential buss. Third backup is a flashlight. Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF
reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost,
fuselage interior and wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: Japundza, Bob <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
> Ever have a fuse blow at night? I have...and it was the fuse to the panel
> lights in a Cherokee 235...
> From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc(at)hiwaay.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:36 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
> Okay, I'm going to play the part of troll here.
>
> Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, fuses tucked behind panel)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Kit |
Eustace,
Yesterday you posted the RV 6 empennage for sale by Bob Spencer. I answered
that I would take it because you vouched for the workmanship. I am sure that
I had to be the first email you got because I answered almost
immediately.Your respnse with Bob's number came a bit later. I called Bob
today and he told me I was 3 on the list. I am sure that I contacted you
first but maybe when you gave him the list of those who emailed he got mixed
up. If possible, could you check the date and times of the emails you
received because I delayed calling until tonight because I thought we had a
deal. Sorry for the inconvenience but fair is fair.
I am leaving for vacation to Fla in the morning and will check my email
tromorrow night or if Bob agrees he can call me and I will pay for the call.
Thanks,
Gary Palinkas
GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
Parma, Ohio
RV 6 QB
216 496 0805
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Wig-Wag |
Rick, I have the FS020 and I think the two wires you refer to are the red
and black. Safe off the black, you don't need it. It is used to override
the wig wag function in nitetime use. The red wire is the trigger circuit
that enables the wig wag action. Hope this helps. Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF
reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost,
fuselage interior and wiring.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 10:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wiring Wig-Wag
. Then there are two wires that go to the "wiring harness" of
> the auto this thing is supposed to be installed in. Do I need these two
> wires connected, and if so, where do they go?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Caldwell
> RV-6 N136RC 2.3 hrs
> Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harris" <johnh(at)bellsouth.net> |
Does anyone on the list have any info on an electrically controlled two
speed prop?
John Harris
RV9A N901RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Winter is here and I have made some updates in 399SB. They include the
following:
1) Reiff Hotpadd oil sump heater
2) Aileron pushrod boots
3) Stuffed the Muff
Oldtimers will have seen these items before, but if you are still
building (or this is your RV's first winter) you may want to check out
this page:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/cold.html
Man, its cold out there!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Kit |
Hi Gary:
I posted Bob's kit on the 25 th at 7:26 PM, the first reply was at 8:55
another at 9:29 then one at 7:35 AM on the 26 th and the last one yours at
12:02 PM . Know this won't make you feel any better but these are the
actual times.
Eustace Bowhay
Do not achieve
----------
> From: GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Empenage Kit
> Date: Thursday, January 27, 2000 6:30 PM
>
>
> Eustace,
>
> Yesterday you posted the RV 6 empennage for sale by Bob Spencer. I
answered
> that I would take it because you vouched for the workmanship. I am sure
that
> I had to be the first email you got because I answered almost
> immediately.Your respnse with Bob's number came a bit later. I called Bob
> today and he told me I was 3 on the list. I am sure that I contacted you
> first but maybe when you gave him the list of those who emailed he got
mixed
> up. If possible, could you check the date and times of the emails you
> received because I delayed calling until tonight because I thought we had
a
> deal. Sorry for the inconvenience but fair is fair.
>
> I am leaving for vacation to Fla in the morning and will check my email
> tromorrow night or if Bob agrees he can call me and I will pay for the
call.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Palinkas
> GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
> Parma, Ohio
> RV 6 QB
> 216 496 0805
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Carb problems need help |
I recently did the annual on RV6 (flying 4 years) and found that the carburetor
bowl was loose.
I pulled it off smeared some fuel valve lube on the gasket to seal it and
tightened every thing up.
Prior to this it ran fine. Now it runs too lean. nearly 1400 deg. at cruise power
settings, mixture full rich. This represents 100 deg. or more increase.
Anyone have any ideas on this?
Bud
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Carb problems need help |
I recently did the annual on RV6 (flying 4 years) and found that the
carburetor
bowl was loose.
I pulled it off smeared some fuel valve lube on the gasket to seal it
and
tightened every thing up.
Prior to this it ran fine. Now it runs too lean. nearly 1400 deg. at
cruise power
settings, mixture full rich. This represents 100 deg. or more increase.
Anyone have any ideas on this?
Bud
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal measuring balance |
I just took a 20"x3/4"x3/4" angle and hung it in the middle. Used a pinch
type clothes pin to balance the bar by moving it as needed. Then put 10
large nuts in a cup and a cup of Sealant A in the other end, adding and
removing material as required to balance the beam. Then put one more large
nut in the cup and added Accelerator type B to the other cup and balanced as
needed. If you carefully add the Sealant B material you can remove some if
needed. I also improvised a bit and came up with 10 small nuts that equal
one large nut in weight. Thus if I weighed in Seal Type A of only 6 nuts
worth of weight, putting in 6 small nuts in the cup and adding Sealant B
material to the other cup gave me flexibility to mix whatever quantity
needed. Maybe my mix wasn't all that accurate, but in the end, it all
hardened up and so far my tanks have passed the leak test. I used plastic
spoons to dip into the can to get sealant material and a plastic knife to
spread on surfaces. The serrated knife worked very well to smear thin coats
on the tank baffle as Scott McDaniel so advised and I'm happy with the way
it turned out. For cups, I cut down plastic Yogurt cups until only 1" deep.
small, but enough for my slow building. Just my 10 cents.
Marty in Brentwood. Wings almost, fuselage kit due in any day.
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au>
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Proseal measuring balance
>
> Excellent suggestion. I think I would prefer to hang something from
> single points on the balance arms to be certain that the ratio is
> unaffected by the position of the goop. The 11 'calibrated' bolts idea
> is perfect.
> Thanks,
> Doug
> >
> >
> > Here is a simplistic way.
> > Get a stick between 12 and 20 inches long. Tape, nail or glue a 3 inch
> > pad on each end. Get eleven bolts or nuts or some such of that weigh the
> > same. Put ten on one pad and the last one on the other pad. Now balance
> > the stick on something so that it sits level with the world. Many ways
to
> > do this.
> > Now take the bolts or nuts off the pads. Replace the one bolt with the
> > black stuff and the ten bolts with the white stuff. 10:1
> > Me??? I use a very accurate balance beam at the office that I mix ink
on.
> > Cecil Hatfield
> > Thousand Oaks, CA
> >
> > >>Can someone tell me where I can find a picture of the 10:1 balance to
> > >>weigh out the proseal?
> > >>
> > >>Doug Gray
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronvandervort(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: e-mail change |
Sam,
Just in case you want to get in touch as you approach the AZ. trip. My new
e-mail; ronvandervort(at)aol.com is now in place.
I won't know my new phone # for a few days yet.
Ron V
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Anyone using Cheng-Shin (Also known as "Lamb" tires) for the mains on a
RV-3,4,8..etc? I would like to know what kind of wear to expect from them,
and if they are worth the extra pounds saved over standard 500x5's.
THX
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Routing of wires in RV-8\8A |
Having chosen to use the Nuckolls approach to wiring my 8A using fuses, 2
alternators and one battery, I'm deliberating where to locate certain
things and would appreciate opinions and suggestions.
1. Firewall ground block. Next to the battery tray? Middle of the
firewall between the rudder pedals?
2. Routing of the 4AWG wire from the battery contactor to the main power
distribution bus, specifically with regard to where it penetrates the
firewall.
3. Should both main power and essential buses be located on that little
shelf on the aft side of the forward baggage compartment?
Thanks,
Jerry Carter
8A QB
Planning Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Mike: Wow! I'm impressed! Very elegant solution! Your workmanship looks
great too. Let me know if you kit it. Is the hole for the pin for the roll
bar exactly perpendicular to the bar, or is there any angle? I assume the
slot in the pin end of the bellcrank is to compensate for any angle
problems. What is the prop pin made of? Is that safety wire at the end?
Thanx for all your trouble. Rion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
28 Jan 2000 08:03:02.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Kit |
If someone wants an empenage or an empenage and set of wings (RV-6) built by a
third time offender there is one for sale in Florida. The workmanship is as good
as it gets, both wings and tail are DONE. Will sell for the price of the kit, he
built them to alieviate boredom. What a deal!
Phlogiston will charge you ten grand for a set of completed wings. These are
built for free.
Contact off list, Tom Benton @ TMB1564(at)aol.com
"Eustace Bowhay" on 01/27/2000 11:09:38 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Empenage Kit
Hi Gary:
I posted Bob's kit on the 25 th at 7:26 PM, the first reply was at 8:55
another at 9:29 then one at 7:35 AM on the 26 th and the last one yours at
12:02 PM . Know this won't make you feel any better but these are the
actual times.
Eustace Bowhay
Do not achieve
----------
> From: GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Empenage Kit
> Date: Thursday, January 27, 2000 6:30 PM
>
>
> Eustace,
>
> Yesterday you posted the RV 6 empennage for sale by Bob Spencer. I
answered
> that I would take it because you vouched for the workmanship. I am sure
that
> I had to be the first email you got because I answered almost
> immediately.Your respnse with Bob's number came a bit later. I called Bob
> today and he told me I was 3 on the list. I am sure that I contacted you
> first but maybe when you gave him the list of those who emailed he got
mixed
> up. If possible, could you check the date and times of the emails you
> received because I delayed calling until tonight because I thought we had
a
> deal. Sorry for the inconvenience but fair is fair.
>
> I am leaving for vacation to Fla in the morning and will check my email
> tromorrow night or if Bob agrees he can call me and I will pay for the
call.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Palinkas
> GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
> Parma, Ohio
> RV 6 QB
> 216 496 0805
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GLPalinkas(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empenage Kit |
Hi Eustace,
I appreciate the effort. I thought maybe there was a pdt/mdt/edt problem
because us east coasters usually suffer from that. (I'm sleeping/your'e
not+visa-versa) Bob also told me a builder he knows who has a partially
completed kit but is not active with it. He will check to see if he would be
willing to part with the empennage.
Thanks again for the try. Had to check my email before I left for
Fla.....wife is staring at me suspiciously now.
Gary Palinkas
GLPalinkas(at)aol.com
Parma, Ohio
RV 6 QB
216 496 0805
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two speed prop |
--- John Harris wrote:
>
> Does anyone on the list have any info on an electrically controlled
> two
> speed prop?
John,
I posted a similar question some months ago, got little to no response.
I fly a Grob motorglider with a manual (lanyard) two speed prop -
seemed (and seems) like a great compromise between constant speed and
fixed for the RV.
The Ivanho props have quite the poor reputation - I don't know how much
is deserved (currently) and how much is history... I guess no one
wants to risk their plane and butt to find out.
Seems the natural, inexpensive two-speed prop is not to be had for our
class of machine.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Standardized List Sales |
In light of recent posts and my own experience I am wondering if anyone
else would be interested in me writing up a set of rules governing sales on
the RV-List. I would not presume to dictate what is being sold only the
method of responding to the offer. I think too often sellers just sell to
the nearest guy to make shipping easier. If that is their policy then they
need to state that in their original post. Otherwise it should be first
respondent to accept the offer. We can have acceptances timed and dated
directly to the list so we all know who it was and others don't have to
respond knowing that three or four already have. They can add "do not
archive" to there messages to save the space. I usually keep 2 or 3 months
of messages in my trash bin so I could most likely retrieve one in case of
a dispute. I would post the suggested rules for review of any of you who
care to respond and give input then ask Matt to add it to the FAQ and put
it in the rotation of list policy notices. Any interest? AL
Matt do you think this would be a good idea?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)IFC.UTC.COM> |
Sam,
Glad to see that the aileron boots worked out for you too. They sure do
make a difference, don't they....
I tried the stainless scrubby in the heat muff trick too and I agree with
your results - not so good. They seem to have slowed the airflow down too
much. What came out was warm, but there just wasn't enough of it in cold
weather.
What I did do that worked much better was to make a spring out of the
.020" stainless tie wire by winding it up onto a 1/4" dowel driven by a
drill.
With the Robin William heat muff ends in place on the exhaust pipe, the
spring was wrapped around the exhaust pipe, with its ends attached to the
heat muff ends. The heat muff cover was then installed. Some areas of the
spring had to be crushed a bit to due to the offset center muff design.
This system now allows much more air, all of it very warm, into the
cockpit. I've flown in -10*F temps lately, and didn't need a jacket (while
flying).... Of coarse, any heater is only as good as the canopy seal and
lack of other air leaks......
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
____
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: RV-List: winter updates
Winter is here and I have made some updates in 399SB. They include
the
following:
1) Reiff Hotpadd oil sump heater
2) Aileron pushrod boots
3) Stuffed the Muff
Oldtimers will have seen these items before, but if you are still
building (or this is your RV's first winter) you may want to check
out
this page:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/cold.html
Man, its cold out there!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 09:15:25 -0600 |
I am ready to start installing the gear leg fairings and wheel
pants. In order to do this I need to lift the fuselage off the ground
I put my gear, pants and everything else on while the fuselage was still
upside down in the jig. Worked great...much easier that jacking up the
whole mess and crawling around on the floor.
Not much help if you're already past that point though...
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: e-mail change |
I had the pleasure of meeting Ron out at my airport the other day. (DVT)
Saw his RV6 pull up and had to go say hi. Real nice guy and a beautiful
RV!!! Welcome to the neighborhood.
Larry Olson
>
>Sam,
>
>Just in case you want to get in touch as you approach the AZ. trip. My new
>e-mail; ronvandervort(at)aol.com is now in place.
>
>I won't know my new phone # for a few days yet.
>
>Ron V
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Flap Retrofit to RV-4 |
Hi all,
I have been lurking pretty much for the last 6 months. I am a student pilot
who made the mistake of going for a ride in an RV-4. Once I got the ride I
HAD to have one. While I did take the easy way out (bought instead of
built) I have been faithfully reading the list every day while going through
the plane with a fine toothed comb.
I owned the plane for 3 months before ever going flying in it. Durring that
time I installed the rear rudder pedal kit, and rear throttle. I checked
for compliance with Vans service bullitins. (Carb airbox safety wire bolt
SB was not done) Spent many hours trying to remove the spinner screws so I
could retorque the prop, only to learn that I don't have to remove the
spinner. Spent countless hours trying to figure out what an "A N What???"
was. Replaced marginal rubber hoses running to the oil cooler with fancy
stainless braided aeroquip hoses. (don't start a thread on stainless
braided hoses. I used them for years on race bikes and vintage race cars
and never had a problem)
I am currently taking tailwheel/transition instruction with Joe Gauthier and
we have made the necessary mods for instruction. (rear rudder pedals and
rear throttle) I like simple mechanical things. I have no interest in
electric aleron or elevator trim, and I thought the manual flaps would be
fine also. That was until Joe and I actually tried to use them. Cant get
them fully extended until well below 80mph without fiddling around with
them. Like I said, I am still a student (50 hrs, checkride in C152 within
the next month or so)but even I know that when I'm 400ft AGL with the power
off, I shouldn't be farting around with a lever that flexes and twists in my
hand. (can you say "stall/spin") I have come to the conclusion that I want
to put in the electric flaps. I would like input on the following items:
1) Are my flaps representative of RV-4s in general. Are most of them a
pain? In the near term, I am putting a big handle on it to help a bit.
2) How much trouble is the electric flap retrofit kit. I am very mechanical
and feel totally comfortable tearing an engine appart, but can not read
plans to save my life. I am sure I will spend many hours looking at the
plane and figuring how to do it, as well as getting up the nerve to actually
start. I do have the help of RV builders Dave and Ed Peters. (The nicest
RV-4 I have ever seen)
That's it. This list has been both HORRIBLE and Fantastic. Horrible
because it confirmed what I knew when I went for a ride in an RV and
therefore FORCED me to buy one of these machines. And fantastic for all the
tips that I have picked up over the last 6 months.
Best regards,
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT (Builder Mark Taylor)
Essex, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BumFlyer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carb problems need help |
In a message dated 1/27/0 22:08:30, bud(at)softcom.net writes:
I recently did the annual on RV6 (flying 4 years) and found that the
carburetor
bowl was loose.
I pulled it off smeared some fuel valve lube on the gasket to seal it
and
tightened every thing up.
Prior to this it ran fine. Now it runs too lean. nearly 1400 deg. at
cruise power
settings, mixture full rich. This represents 100 deg. or more increase.
Anyone have any ideas on this?
Bud
>>
You might check the archives, there has been a lot of chatter on this over
the years.
I would start by determining how your carb float chamber is vented. There
are some models which are vented in the carb throat which have a devil of a
time in the RV, with the symtoms you describe. Any way start by making sure
it is probperly vented
Good luck
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | canopy prop open device |
I made a very simple device to prop the canopy partly open on my RV-4. It
worked very well and is completely gust proof. It could be used from either
inside the cockpit while taxiing or outside for ventilation while parked.
The device consisted of a 6" piece of 1/16" thick, 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum
angle, a 3/16" bolt, 1 camloc with "mickey mouse ears", 2 camloc
receptacles, misc. washers and rivets.
Align the angle with the left side cockpit rail with the angle almost
touching the instrument panel. The rear of the angle and the cockpit rail
are drilled for the bolt, which is used as the pivot point. The bolt
should be a loose fit so that the angle can move easily. Put the camloc on
the front of the angle. Put one receptacle in the cockpit rail and the
other in a suitable spot on the canopy frame ( you will need some sort of
bracket to hold the receptacle to the canopy frame).
The angle is either held to the cockpit rail when not in use or is swung
vertically to hold the canopy open. Like I said it is dirt simple, cheap,
and works just fine.
Feel free to call if this doesn't explain it well enough. Sorry I don't
have a photo handy.
Vince Frazier
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-985-7309
University of Southern Indiana
812-464-1839
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters |
>
> the ripple voltage left on a 3-phase alternator's rectified output
> is about 5% of the average DC . . . for a 14v alternator this is
> on the order of 700 mV peak to peak. Normally, this isn't a problem
> for avionics or other accessories designed to run in vehicles
> of any kind having an alternator/battery power system.
Is that 5% with a battery in the circuit? Or just a small DC source for
field excitation? I went and checked the alternator in my Mazda (car) and
it had at least 1.8 V peak to peak according to the scope.
>
> It's true that some digital meters are sensitive to this kind of
> noise and will benefit from some filtering. The DC meter modules
> I use the most have a 10 to 100 Megohm input impedance so adding
> 10K of series resistance in the meter's sense lead doesn't upset
> the calibration much . . less than 0.1%. After the resistor
> is added, you put a capacitor across the meter's input terminals,
> anything 0.1 uF up to 10 uF is fine . . . 1.0 uF and larger tend
> to be electrolytics so observe polarity.
>
> This simple R/C filter will calm the little fellers down so that
> their readings are accurate.
The R/C filter is a good recommendation. I should have said that also. I
have mine in a small plastic box with lead jacks for my meter. I used a 22K
in series with the positive lead and a 10uF tantilum capacitor and a 0.1uF
ceramic. It had been so long I had to open the box to remember.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
> Circuit breaker contacts don't weld. Fuses that are not fiddled
> with in flight don't suffer mis-sizing accidents.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
I need to try to find the failed ON circuit breaker I have then and tear it
appart. It failed ON and I just took the appinion of the A&P that is what
happened. I'll see if I can find it still and cut it apart and see what
failed. The A&P said the contacts had welded but I never checked. He said
he had seen it before but it was rare.
It came from an alternator circuit and a shorted battery. A friend of mine
who was in the aircraft at the time reset the breaker twice when it failed
'on' and then ate the alternator. Luckly he was on the skirt when it
happened and just shut down and got towed back to the hanger.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standardized List Sales |
Al,
Some of the problems withs this are.....
* email does not arrive to all immediately after it is posted
* we are working through several time zones
* email is not read immediately by all
* it is a free market econonmy and most sellers don't care who buys it, as
long as it
gets sold
I typically see responses to questions many days after the thread has been
"put to bed" by most listers
so it is obvious not everyone is on top of the list daily.
If this was to be "fair", the only way to do it would be to post the item,
wait several days for responses
and then pick a name out of a hat.
I doubt most listers would want to go through the hassle.
We used to have a popular classified newspaper distributed in our County
that was distrubuted to different
parts of the county on different days. As you might guess, the folks who got
the paper first jumped on all
the bargins before the people who got the paper days later.
Ed Cole
----- Original Message -----
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 9:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Standardized List Sales
In light of recent posts and my own experience I am wondering if anyone
else would be interested in me writing up a set of rules governing sales on
the RV-List. I would not presume to dictate what is being sold only the
method of responding to the offer. I think too often sellers just sell to
the nearest guy to make shipping easier. If that is their policy then they
need to state that in their original post. Otherwise it should be first
respondent to accept the offer. We can have acceptances timed and dated
directly to the list so we all know who it was and others don't have to
respond knowing that three or four already have. They can add "do not
archive" to there messages to save the space. I usually keep 2 or 3 months
of messages in my trash bin so I could most likely retrieve one in case of
a dispute. I would post the suggested rules for review of any of you who
care to respond and give input then ask Matt to add it to the FAQ and put
it in the rotation of list policy notices. Any interest? AL
Matt do you think this would be a good idea?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
>
>Dumb question - Is an ELT required on an experimental airplane?
Yes
Have a great day!
Denny, RV-6 N641DH (Flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing of wires in RV-8\8A |
Jerry,
I did not use a grounding block but (I think) placed grounding studs at
several strategic spots in order to save long wire runs for grounding. But
if you are going to use one make sure it is in a spot where it can't get
wet.
On running the wire from the Master to the main bus, I have the Van's kit
and their suggestion is on the left side a little lower and outboard from
the brake reservoir. For me this location has worked out good so far.
Van's drawing also uses that very shelf you are talking about. The only
thing I would suggest is changing the homemade terminal block to ones
available from Radio Shack or Acft Spruce. The other thing that I noticed
on mine (full IFR) is the radio installation comes back quite far and could
make it tough if the radios were located directly in front of the Bus on
that shelf. Luckily I had already decided to put the radios on the right
side of the panel or I would have had to re-locate the bus.
Good luck with the wiring. I think I would rather work with fiberglass than
spend any more time wiring. To install a full IFR panel and two of the
Infinity grips has been a nightmare.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Routing of wires in RV-8\8A
>Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 00:42:22 -0600
>
>
>Having chosen to use the Nuckolls approach to wiring my 8A using fuses, 2
>alternators and one battery, I'm deliberating where to locate certain
>things and would appreciate opinions and suggestions.
>
>1. Firewall ground block. Next to the battery tray? Middle of the
>firewall between the rudder pedals?
>
>2. Routing of the 4AWG wire from the battery contactor to the main power
>distribution bus, specifically with regard to where it penetrates the
>firewall.
>
>3. Should both main power and essential buses be located on that little
>shelf on the aft side of the forward baggage compartment?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jerry Carter
>8A QB
>Planning Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Christopher
I've ot them on my 3. Wear is little better but the really
good thing about them is that they don't leak air. They are
lighter. I'd do it again,
Tom
christopher huey wrote:
>
> Anyone using Cheng-Shin (Also known as "Lamb" tires) for the mains on a
> RV-3,4,8..etc? I would like to know what kind of wear to expect from them,
> and if they are worth the extra pounds saved over standard 500x5's.
>
> THX
>
> Chris
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Not if your have a single place airplane.
Tom
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
> >
> >Dumb question - Is an ELT required on an experimental airplane?
>
> Yes
>
> Have a great day!
> Denny, RV-6 N641DH (Flying)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb problems need help |
I've looked at this message a couple of times. I think what has happened is
you used a liberal amount of Valve Lube and it got squeezed out into the
bowl. This stuff is NOT fuel soluble. It probably has partially plugged
some thing; jet, vent, etc.
If I were you I would take the entire carb back off and blow out all
passages. reassemble being careful if I used Parker fuel or valve lube to
use it very sparing if at all. Some times in our efforts to improve things,
to make them perfect, the opposite happens.
It is somewhat the same thing that happens with silicone rubber gasket
sealer. The amount that you wipe off the outside has also been squeezed out
on the inside. A lump or two that breaks or falls into what you are sealing
can cause problems. For this reason, I do not use silicone rubber gasket
sealer especially around fuel and oil.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: BumFlyer(at)aol.com <BumFlyer(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carb problems need help
>
>
>In a message dated 1/27/0 22:08:30, bud(at)softcom.net writes:
>
>
>I recently did the annual on RV6 (flying 4 years) and found that the
>carburetor
>bowl was loose.
>I pulled it off smeared some fuel valve lube on the gasket to seal it
>and
>tightened every thing up.
>Prior to this it ran fine. Now it runs too lean. nearly 1400 deg. at
>cruise power
>settings, mixture full rich. This represents 100 deg. or more increase.
>Anyone have any ideas on this?
>
>Bud
>
> >>
>
>You might check the archives, there has been a lot of chatter on this over
>the years.
>
>I would start by determining how your carb float chamber is vented. There
>are some models which are vented in the carb throat which have a devil of a
>time in the RV, with the symtoms you describe. Any way start by making
sure
>it is probperly vented
>
>Good luck
>
>D Walsh
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Air-Oil Separator |
I want to add an oil separator to my engine breather outlet. I am
considering the "Homebuilders Oil Breather/Separator" sold by Aircraft
Spruce (p. 233, 99/00 catalog). I would appreciate any comments on
how well this separator works.
Questions:
1. Where does the oil return line attach to the engine? I have a
carburated
O-320 D2J (160 hp) with Slick mags, no constant speed, no vacuum pump.
2. What is the diameter of the oil return line? (I may try to
fabricate my own separator.)
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 463 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Rion;'
I'll try to take a photo for you. First, several
egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
presented in the RV4. I have been flying the F-16 for
12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the -4
except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the rear and
is electrically raised and lowered. It is explosively
jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
recommends ejection over "riding out" an off runway
excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main gear
failure and flipped over, trapping him for three hours
until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the THREE
inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and free
him. A fire would have made a different ending to the
story.
As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary RV3
pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff putting
him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a sliding
canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted the
airplane. He was so humbled by the experience that he
redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable, installed a
BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield again. With
500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say that if
anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up, I am
jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
locking pin, you simply reach over your left shoulder,
pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the canopy. In
normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply pull
the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and slide the
pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a tear
away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel with
aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I need
to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when it's
shut, it won't blow open.
Rob
--- RION BOURGEOIS wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION BOURGEOIS"
>
>
> Sounds neat and simple. However, if the pin slides
> backwards over the
> canopy bulkhead, how do rescuers open the canopy to
> get you out? Got
> pictures? Rion
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:45 PM
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> >
> >
> > Hi J;
> >
> > I used a pin from the nautilus weight room that
> > holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a hole
> in my
> > roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a point on
> the
> > entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches
> "above
> > the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic bushings
> in
> > the hole in the roll bar just like the ones for
> the
> > rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could put a
> > small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the end.
> Now
> > I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy
> bulkhead
> > on the ground and pull it back when I shut the
> canopy.
> > It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The cool
> part
> > is when the canopy is down, the pin slides
> backwards
> > OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing opening if
> the
> > canopy lock should fail. See ya.
> >
> > Rob Ray
> > smokyray(at)yahoo.com
> > --- "J. Rion Bourgeois"
> wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion
> Bourgeois"
> > >
> > >
> > > I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy
> latch
> > > mechanism. I would like
> > > to use the standard latch mechanism in the
> plans,
> > > but it does not provide
> > > for a partially open position for ground
> operations.
> > > I have heard a rumor
> > > about a builder in the Seattle area who has
> designed
> > > a safety latch that
> > > allows use of the standard canopy latch and has
> a
> > > partially open position.
> > > Does anyone have his address and phone number or
> any
> > > suggested solutions?
> > > Thanx, Rion
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > through
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > > Matronics!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> > http://im.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 canopy latch |
I guess the RV-4 is somewhat different from the RV-3, but I think that you can't
have the latch rod (tube) go through the canopy frame.
The original design called for additional rods, however, I simply pop rivited
triangular pieces of .125 alu to the frame. The grommets are placed in holes in
these pieces, rather than in the frame. This allows for the closed and taxi
holes to still be drilled close to instrument and bulkhead edges. Taxi holes are
not much more than an inch above the closed holes, and is drilled as close as
possible to the outside edge of the bulkheads. I doubt you'll need much more
than a one inch crack when the prop is running. The center of the rods runs
maybe 3/4" in from the center of the frame.
Finn
Rob Reece wrote:
>
> I
> > would like
> > to use the standard latch mechanism in the plans, but it does not provide
> > for a partially open position for ground operations. I have heard a rumor
> > about a builder in the Seattle area who has designed a safety latch that
> > allows use of the standard canopy latch and has a partially open position.
>
> The RV-4 that I have flown in just has a second hole installed about 4-6
> inches above the existing hole that latches/locks the canopy partially open
> for ventilation and ground ops as you have described. Appears to be just a
> second hole in the bulkhead with a thick doubler riveted on like original
> (don't have the plans. . .could be wrong about original hole).
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" <James.Johnson(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Rob,
Another question one could ask is what happens to the structural integrity
of the roll bar with a rather large hole drilled through it supporting the
pin?
Of course, as my old instructor used to say, "At this point your luck has
been quite miserable. What makes you think it's about to change. S---
happens!"
Jj
-----Original Message-----
From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
--> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
Rion;'
I'll try to take a photo for you. First, several
egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
presented in the RV4. I have been flying the F-16 for
12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the -4
except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the rear and
is electrically raised and lowered. It is explosively
jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
recommends ejection over "riding out" an off runway
excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main gear
failure and flipped over, trapping him for three hours
until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the THREE
inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and free
him. A fire would have made a different ending to the
story.
As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary RV3
pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff putting
him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a sliding
canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted the
airplane. He was so humbled by the experience that he
redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable, installed a
BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield again. With
500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say that if
anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up, I am
jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
locking pin, you simply reach over your left shoulder,
pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the canopy. In
normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply pull
the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and slide the
pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a tear
away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel with
aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I need
to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when it's
shut, it won't blow open.
Rob
--- RION BOURGEOIS wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION BOURGEOIS"
>
>
> Sounds neat and simple. However, if the pin slides
> backwards over the
> canopy bulkhead, how do rescuers open the canopy to
> get you out? Got
> pictures? Rion
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:45 PM
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> >
> >
> > Hi J;
> >
> > I used a pin from the nautilus weight room that
> > holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a hole
> in my
> > roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a point on
> the
> > entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches
> "above
> > the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic bushings
> in
> > the hole in the roll bar just like the ones for
> the
> > rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could put a
> > small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the end.
> Now
> > I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy
> bulkhead
> > on the ground and pull it back when I shut the
> canopy.
> > It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The cool
> part
> > is when the canopy is down, the pin slides
> backwards
> > OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing opening if
> the
> > canopy lock should fail. See ya.
> >
> > Rob Ray
> > smokyray(at)yahoo.com
> > --- "J. Rion Bourgeois"
> wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion
> Bourgeois"
> > >
> > >
> > > I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy
> latch
> > > mechanism. I would like
> > > to use the standard latch mechanism in the
> plans,
> > > but it does not provide
> > > for a partially open position for ground
> operations.
> > > I have heard a rumor
> > > about a builder in the Seattle area who has
> designed
> > > a safety latch that
> > > allows use of the standard canopy latch and has
> a
> > > partially open position.
> > > Does anyone have his address and phone number or
> any
> > > suggested solutions?
> > > Thanx, Rion
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > through
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > > Matronics!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> > http://im.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mike.nellis(at)mcd.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Separator |
The latest edition of AOPA Pilot has just what your looking for if you can find
an edition.
Mike Nellis
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com> on 01/28/2000 01:01 PM
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Air-Oil Separator
I want to add an oil separator to my engine breather outlet. I am
considering the "Homebuilders Oil Breather/Separator" sold by Aircraft
Spruce (p. 233, 99/00 catalog). I would appreciate any comments on
how well this separator works.
Questions:
1. Where does the oil return line attach to the engine? I have a
carburated
O-320 D2J (160 hp) with Slick mags, no constant speed, no vacuum pump.
2. What is the diameter of the oil return line? (I may try to
fabricate my own separator.)
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 463 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Standardized List Sales |
Okay Ed, I thought of most of that but I figured most e-mail gets time
stamped when it's sent. Thought later that this can be messed with by
changeling the time on your computer. So how about requiring a phone number
so anyone can respond by phone immediately and follow up with a
confirmation over the list. It would be nice to have something less
arbitrary than it currently is. It's a real bummer when you know you bought
something only to find your e-mail being ignored because a better or easier
deal came in later. Oh well I guess we'll just have to plod on. AL
>
>Al,
>Some of the problems withs this are.....
>
>* email does not arrive to all immediately after it is posted
>
>* we are working through several time zones
>
>* email is not read immediately by all
>
>* it is a free market economy and most sellers don't care who buys it, as
>long as it gets sold
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
When mounting tires, does the red dot on the tire line up with the valve
stem or does it go opposite of the valve stem???
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Separator |
>
>
>I want to add an oil separator to my engine breather outlet. I am
>considering the "Homebuilders Oil Breather/Separator" sold by Aircraft
>Spruce (p. 233, 99/00 catalog). I would appreciate any comments on
>how well this separator works.
>
>Questions:
>
>1. Where does the oil return line attach to the engine? I have a
>carburated
>O-320 D2J (160 hp) with Slick mags, no constant speed, no vacuum pump.
It attaches to the oil filler tube so it goes right back where it came from.
>
>2. What is the diameter of the oil return line? (I may try to
>fabricate my own separator.)
Tony Bingelis has a neat cross setional cutaway drawing of a home made
separator in his "firewall forward" book. I thought about making one
myself, but since the belly of the plane is staying very clean so far, I
don't see much need for it. If you plan to do some occasional (momentary)
negative G stuff, or like to run your oil level rather high, then it would
be a nice device to install.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Boots |
I missed the post on aileron boots.What was used???????
Ken Harrell RV6 400 Hrs. (BWG) Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standardized List Sales |
Al,
I've missed a few bargins do to late notification, so I know what a bummer
it can be!
I have had luck with Avweb autions however, even though you must constantly
monitor
the bidding.
How's that project going?? As slow as mine? I'm still finishing the fuselage
and have it on gear,
motor mount is on, seats, flap motor, and interior sheetmetal is done. Just
need to put
on the top skins, and start the panel and canopy.
Some day....
Ed Cole
----- Original Message -----
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Standardized List Sales
Okay Ed, I thought of most of that but I figured most e-mail gets time
stamped when it's sent. Thought later that this can be messed with by
changeling the time on your computer. So how about requiring a phone number
so anyone can respond by phone immediately and follow up with a
confirmation over the list. It would be nice to have something less
arbitrary than it currently is. It's a real bummer when you know you bought
something only to find your e-mail being ignored because a better or easier
deal came in later. Oh well I guess we'll just have to plod on. AL
>
>Al,
>Some of the problems withs this are.....
>
>* email does not arrive to all immediately after it is posted
>
>* we are working through several time zones
>
>* email is not read immediately by all
>
>* it is a free market economy and most sellers don't care who buys it, as
>long as it gets sold
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
The red dot is the light spot on the tire. It should be lined up with the
yellow strip on the tube. If there is no yellow line on the tube then it
should be lined up with the valve stem.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
When mounting tires, does the red dot on the tire line up with the valve
stem or does it go opposite of the valve stem???
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Carburetor problems with loose bowl. |
People usually do not know this but there is a service letter to check the
bowl screws for being tight every 50 hours.
What happens when the bowl gets loose is two things: The bowl and upper end
of the carburetor wear differently and or a booger gets in the flange area
so when you tighten the bowl back up there is usually a little gap somewhere
between the venturi and the float bowl that is allowing the ventrui to put a
vacuum on the float bowl which in turn doesn't allow the right amount of
fuel to travel thru the main jet on the carb which causes a lean mixture.
I suggest that you pull the carb off and disassemble and mate the surfaces
by laying a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and true up the
bowl and top half of the carb. When you assemble again use just a slight
amount of fuel lube on the parting gasket.
Hope this helps.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
I recently did the annual on RV6 (flying 4 years) and found that the
carburetor
bowl was loose.
I pulled it off smeared some fuel valve lube on the gasket to seal it
and
tightened every thing up.
Prior to this it ran fine. Now it runs too lean. nearly 1400 deg. at
cruise power
settings, mixture full rich. This represents 100 deg. or more increase.
Anyone have any ideas on this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: J Stringer Add-ons - RV6 |
Greetings
I have heard that some builders have added two J Stringers to the
bottom of the fuse between bulkheads 606 & 608 , and then one centered
between the
608 & 610.
Has anyone done this? and / or, would recomend it??
I can certainly see that it would be real easy to get carried away with
this sort of thing and I am constantly holding myself back from doing exactly
that.
So ... comments??
David Wentzell
RV6 Fuse (starting to take shape)
Racine Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com> |
| Subject: | O320H2Ad for Sale |
about 3 weeks ago I posted this engine for sale and had some interested
replys.
However I had to leave town and lost the interested party's list. (One was
from England).
The engine has 0 time and is a rebuilt by Aero Sport Power with installation
of oil spray nozzles.
do not archieve
planejoe(at)ewol.com
941 474 0615
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
Need some opinions. I am looking for a mounting location for an ACK EL-01
elt, the one that is portable and uses d-cell batteries. It needs to be
accessible for portable use. The only place I can see to mount it is in the
rear baggage compartment in my -8A. On the hat shelf with a .025 doubler
for added stiffness. Does anyone see a problem with this. Is the hat shelf
sufficiently stiff for this use? I don't want it tearing out in a crash.
Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>
>> Circuit breaker contacts don't weld. Fuses that are not fiddled
>> with in flight don't suffer mis-sizing accidents.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>I need to try to find the failed ON circuit breaker I have then and tear it
>appart. It failed ON and I just took the appinion of the A&P that is what
>happened. I'll see if I can find it still and cut it apart and see what
>failed. The A&P said the contacts had welded but I never checked. He said
>he had seen it before but it was rare.
>
>It came from an alternator circuit and a shorted battery. A friend of mine
>who was in the aircraft at the time reset the breaker twice when it failed
>'on' and then ate the alternator. Luckly he was on the skirt when it
>happened and just shut down and got towed back to the hanger.
Aha! It is true that contacts on switches weld only
when the switch closes and burn mostly when switches opne.
When the breaker tripped the first time, it was trying to
say something . . . that circuit was OVERLOADED. It might
be slightly overloaded such that the breaker takes awhile to
warm up and trip or it could be a hard fault . . . with modern
batteries, short fat wires hooking things up, it's conceivable
that a dead short fault current in an arplane could be many
hundreds of amps.
Trying to reset the breaker without knowing the exact nature
of the fault is an invitation to welding. I guess I should have
said that breakers operating in their intended function (opening
a faulted circuit where the breaker is already closed) don't
weld. Breakers used as SWITCHED to restore power to heavily
faulted circuits may indeed suffer a weldment.
Do you REALLY want to punch that breaker back in?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Please site your reference
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
"Das Fed"
>From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT
>Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 09:57:00 -0800
>
>
>Not if your have a single place airplane.
>Tom
>
>Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
> >
> > >
> > >Dumb question - Is an ELT required on an experimental airplane?
> >
> > Yes
> >
> > Have a great day!
> > Denny, RV-6 N641DH (Flying)
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Flight Test Basics School |
To all,
I just came across this notice for a weekend class for learning the basics of flight
tests and performance estimation. I thought it might be of interest to
some on the list who would like to know more about their RV's performance.
Since I'll be flying in the next couple of months (I hope) this class is of real
interest to me. I called up Ed to see if there is still space available. Good
news is there is still space, bad news is it looks like there might be enough
interest to do the class. What a shame.
He has 12 confimed, and need to get close to 20 to make the break even point.
This is to be the first of several that he hoped to put on.
If something like this might be of interest, please give Ed a call real soon. (He
was going to make a decision this weekend).
I have a personal interest in seeing the course happen, as I want to attend!
Thanks,
Laird RV-6 22923
SoCal
The announcement from Kitplanes is at:
http://www.kitplanes.com/what's%20new/whatsnew.htm#Highlights
I included the text in case people don't have web access.
"Homebuilders whose flying skills may have become rusty during the building process
often look for a well qualified pilot to make initial test flights, and we
encourage that. Other
builders, however, opt for the excitement and experience of testing their own.
If you are considering joining the second group, Ed Kolano's weekend course
on flight test basics set for February 26 and 27 in San Diego may be for you.
Kolano is a nationally
recognized professional test pilot who was an instructor at Navy Test Pilot School.
His two-day course teaches how to measure data and use it to determine specifications
including takeoff,
climb, range, endurance, descent, engine-out and landing performance. Also in the
curriculum: handling qualities and stability and control as they relate to
piloting tasks.
On completion, you will be able to produce the performance section of an operator's
manual for your own aircraft. Cosponsored by KITPLANES magazine and the
San Diego Aerospace
Museum--which will host the event--the course will be related to some of the aircraft
on display in the museum.
The course will accommodate a maximum class of 25 pilots. Register now by sending
a check for $300 made to Ed Kolano at P.O. Box 163941, Fort Worth, TX 76161.
Extensive
materials are included in the cost. Checks will be voided and returned promptly
once the class is full or if minimum class size is not achieved.
The San Diego Aerospace Museum is one of 11 museums in San Diego's Balboa Park,
which also houses the world famous San Diego Zoo. Bring the family and they
will find plenty
to do while you learn about flight testing.
Questions? Call Ed Kolano evenings at 817/421-0555."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Dumb question - Is an ELT required on an experimental airplane?
>
> Yes
>
> Have a great day!
> Denny, RV-6 N641DH (Flying)
If it has more than 1 seat & you stray more than 50 mi from home. I
think.
ce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
Ed,
Mine is still stalled also. Have a few other things on the front burner,
not to mention it's about -5 degrees right now out in the shop. Hey did you
ever get that e-mail when I offered to fax you the parts list for your
engine that I had made up. You asked for somethign about that as I recall
and I offered and never heard back and I think I forgot about it. Did you
ever get that other engine rebuilt? I have been so busy It's hard to get to
the projuect. Thanks for asking though.....AL
>
>Al,
>I've missed a few bargins do to late notification, so I know what a bummer
>it can be!
>I have had luck with Avweb autions however, even though you must constantly
>monitor
>the bidding.
>How's that project going?? As slow as mine? I'm still finishing the fuselage
>and have it on gear,
>motor mount is on, seats, flap motor, and interior sheetmetal is done. Just
>need to put
>on the top skins, and start the panel and canopy.
>Some day....
>
>Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Mounting |
It lines up just under the valve stem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor problems with loose bowl. |
Interesting Bryan. I thought he said that he reassembled with Parker valve
lube so it would not have any gaps. I was not aware of the service letter.
Thanks for the info.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bryan E. Files <bfiles(at)corecom.net>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 6:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Carburetor problems with loose bowl.
>747.
>People usually do not know this but there is a service letter to check the
>bowl screws for being tight every 50 hours.
>What happens when the bowl gets loose is two things: The bowl and upper
end
>of the carburetor wear differently and or a booger gets in the flange area
>so when you tighten the bowl back up there is usually a little gap
somewhere
>between the venturi and the float bowl that is allowing the ventrui to put
a
>vacuum on the float bowl which in turn doesn't allow the right amount of
>fuel to travel thru the main jet on the carb which causes a lean mixture.
>I suggest that you pull the carb off and disassemble and mate the surfaces
>by laying a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and true up the
>bowl and top half of the carb. When you assemble again use just a slight
>amount of fuel lube on the parting gasket.
>Hope this helps.
>***Bryan E. Files***
>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>Fat City Aircraft
>Palmer, Alaska
>mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
>
>I recently did the annual on RV6 (flying 4 years) and found that the
>carburetor
>bowl was loose.
>I pulled it off smeared some fuel valve lube on the gasket to seal it
>and
>tightened every thing up.
>Prior to this it ran fine. Now it runs too lean. nearly 1400 deg. at
>cruise power
>settings, mixture full rich. This represents 100 deg. or more increase.
>Anyone have any ideas on this?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Engine Component Safetying |
I've got 3 things to safety wire, but can only find two places to tie off the
safety wire...
Items to safety:
1) Oil filter (on a spin-on adapter). It looks like this safety's through a
hole near the top of the spin on adapter.
2) Vernatherm. Looks like this safety's through a hole near the bottom of
the spin on adapter.
3) Oil temperature sensor. Could safety through the same hole as the oil
filter, but I doubt it... What gives??
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | rivet identification |
I keep bumping into the same delema everytime I find a different rivet spec
on the drawings. I never had the original packing list from my kit and had
to guess at the rivets ID's using aircraft spruce catalog photos and
descriptions .
Is there a web site that might happen to have all the different rivit types
and thier various designations along with an image?
This could really help us less informed builders.
I wish Vans just wrote the actual ID on the bag instead of (or along with) a
number.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 canopy soaking in the tub
to help release the #$@#!!@ protective coating!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
(I've been TDY for a few days, so I missed this thread while it was
ongoing.)
> Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
Four experiences that support accessible fuses or breakers:
Gruman AA1C (mine): intermittent short in panel light cirucit while
night IFR. Replaced fuse, flew to destination (IFR) w/o flashlight in
mouth. I'm glad that fuse was accessible. I fixed the intermittent short
later.
RV-6A (mine): First flight, stall horn was on all the time (stall tab
needed to be moved). Pulled breaker, completed first flight without
distracting noise.
RV-6A (mine): I have a weird interaction between my Garmin 195 and
my Navaid autopilot that I've not resolved yet. During the interim, I
like to be able to power down the Navaid until the Garmin 195 is on.
The accessible Navaid breaker makes that possible.
RV-6A (mine): My engine monitor sometimes locks if I start the
engine with the monitor on. You can bitch and moan all you want
about how it shouldn't do that, but the bottom line is it's the best
monitor on the market, and I'm going to use it. When I forget to turn
the avionics master off while cranking the engine, I can easily cycle
the avionics master or the engine monitor breaker without interrupting
power to my electronic ignition (which is on the main bus, not the
avionics bus).
People will make arguments about a "proper" design eliminating the
need for an accessible fuse/breaker in any given situation. They'll
make these arguments AFTER knowing all the circumstances that
made the accessible breaker/fuse useful. But it is not possible to
anticipate every fault/problem/circumstance that may occur, so I say
give the pilot in command maximum control over his aircraft's electrical
system. The decision to reset a circuit belongs with the PIC. The
decision to power down a circuit belongs with the PIC. I will not hide
my breakers/fuses and rob myself of the option of turning off or
resetting a circuit in flight, based on my needs and my judgment
during the flight.
Tim Lewis
B.S. Electrical Engineering
M.S. Electrical Engineering
RV-6A Flying
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wellgreg(at)pacbell.net |
Please remove me from your list. Thanks!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
Also--
Not if you're flying exclusively within 50 miles of your airport or are
using our RV for Agwagon spraying.
bcb.
Thomas McIntyre wrote:
>
>
> Not if your have a single place airplane.
> Tom
>
> Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
> >
> > >
> > >Dumb question - Is an ELT required on an experimental airplane?
> >
> > Yes
> >
> > Have a great day!
> > Denny, RV-6 N641DH (Flying)
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Separator |
>I want to add an oil separator to my engine breather outlet. I am
>considering the "Homebuilders Oil Breather/Separator" sold by Aircraft
>Spruce (p. 233, 99/00 catalog). I would appreciate any comments on
>how well this separator works.
>
>Questions:
>
>1. Where does the oil return line attach to the engine? I have a
>carburated
>O-320 D2J (160 hp) with Slick mags, no constant speed, no vacuum pump.
>
>2. What is the diameter of the oil return line? (I may try to
>fabricate my own separator.)
>
>Mark Nielsen
>RV-6, 463 hrs
Mark,
When I had mine installed, I plumbed the drain back from the separator to
a 90 degree nylon fitting (pipe thread on one end, barbed fitting on the
other) that was screwed (and sealed) into the lower portion of the plastic,
dipstick tube. I used 1/4" id tubing and clamped the ends on the barbed
(and bulbed fitting on the bottom of the separator). I removed the
separator at about 200 hours, or so, because I needed the location to mount
the electronic module for Jeff Rose's electronic ignition. This is when I
found that I had not gained anything with the addition of the separator.
The belly of the airplane was just as clean with as without.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PLEASE STOP!! |
Greg,
Go to the subscription site listed below and delete your subscription. The
list is not the place to do this. Thanks.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
> Please remove me from your list. Thanks!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Component Safetying |
Kyle--
If you have a firewall mounted spin-on filter adapter there should be a
hole in the adapter frame on the right-hand side--begin the safety wire
in a hole in the bottom of the filter under the frame hole, connect to
the next counterclockwise hole and then up and around 180 to the
adapter hole. This prevents the wire from sliding on the filter, esp.
if you use a "long" (CH48109) filter. I don't know what the Vernatherm
is--sounds like something we wouldn't use in FL and I don't know the
distance from your oil sensor to the next bolt or screwhead. I may be
preaching to the choir but there are some good examples of possibilities
in AC 43.13-1B/2A (Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices...") in
Section 7 on safetying technique.
bcb
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I've got 3 things to safety wire, but can only find two places to tie off the
> safety wire...
>
> Items to safety:
>
> 1) Oil filter (on a spin-on adapter). It looks like this safety's through a
> hole near the top of the spin on adapter.
>
> 2) Vernatherm. Looks like this safety's through a hole near the bottom of
> the spin on adapter.
>
> 3) Oil temperature sensor. Could safety through the same hole as the oil
> filter, but I doubt it... What gives??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Separator |
In a message dated 1/28/00 11:58:05 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com writes:
<< I want to add an oil separator to my engine breather outlet. I am
considering the "Homebuilders Oil Breather/Separator" sold by Aircraft
Spruce (p. 233, 99/00 catalog). I would appreciate any comments on
how well this separator works.>>
These represent a good value and can be made to work quite well if you are
willing to modify them as described in the archives.
<>
IMO the best answer is that it doesn't. Oil and moisture are extracted so
you probably are going to get some sulfuric acid in it. I certainly wouldn't
return it to the engine. Plumb the drain to collect the condensate in some
sort of bottle (I used a Matco brake fluid reservoir with a curtis valve) and
then drain it every 50 hrs or so.
<>
3/8" ID on the drain line. This breather is sold in two versions, the
original I used was for the O-200 and is equipped with nipples to fit 5/8" ID
hose. I changed the fitting on my O-360 engine to use the AN840-10D hose
nipple (same as most Continentals) so that I could use the same 5/8" ID hose
for everything (vacuum pump, etc.). Wicks also has another version (pg 242)
equipped with nipples to fit 3/4" ID hose. So you have a choice.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
I would think a switch would do just fine in 3 out of your 4 examples!!!!
Fuses or CB being accessible or not have nothing to do with every problem in
your 6A! Read it again.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>(I've been TDY for a few days, so I missed this thread while it was
>ongoing.)
>
>> Why do the fuses have to be accessible in flight?
>
>Four experiences that support accessible fuses or breakers:
>
>Gruman AA1C (mine): intermittent short in panel light cirucit while
>night IFR. Replaced fuse, flew to destination (IFR) w/o flashlight in
>mouth. I'm glad that fuse was accessible. I fixed the intermittent short
>later.
>
>RV-6A (mine): First flight, stall horn was on all the time (stall tab
>needed to be moved). Pulled breaker, completed first flight without
>distracting noise.
>
>RV-6A (mine): I have a weird interaction between my Garmin 195 and
>my Navaid autopilot that I've not resolved yet. During the interim, I
>like to be able to power down the Navaid until the Garmin 195 is on.
>The accessible Navaid breaker makes that possible.
>
>RV-6A (mine): My engine monitor sometimes locks if I start the
>engine with the monitor on. You can bitch and moan all you want
>about how it shouldn't do that, but the bottom line is it's the best
>monitor on the market, and I'm going to use it. When I forget to turn
>the avionics master off while cranking the engine, I can easily cycle
>the avionics master or the engine monitor breaker without interrupting
>power to my electronic ignition (which is on the main bus, not the
>avionics bus).
>
>People will make arguments about a "proper" design eliminating the
>need for an accessible fuse/breaker in any given situation. They'll
>make these arguments AFTER knowing all the circumstances that
>made the accessible breaker/fuse useful. But it is not possible to
>anticipate every fault/problem/circumstance that may occur, so I say
>give the pilot in command maximum control over his aircraft's electrical
>system. The decision to reset a circuit belongs with the PIC. The
>decision to power down a circuit belongs with the PIC. I will not hide
>my breakers/fuses and rob myself of the option of turning off or
>resetting a circuit in flight, based on my needs and my judgment
>during the flight.
>
>Tim Lewis
>B.S. Electrical Engineering
>M.S. Electrical Engineering
>RV-6A Flying
>
>
>******
>Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
>RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
>TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
>http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wellgreg(at)pacbell.net |
Please take me off your list AZAP!! TNX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A D Marzo <aerome(at)onramp.net> |
aerome(at)onramp.net
| Subject: | [Fwd: RV Homebuilt Aircraft Data Plates......FOR SALE] |
Hey Gang!
I picked up one of these data plates from Ted and it really is neat.
Considering what we spend an all the play things we buy for our toys,
this is a neat little deal. Check it out!
Al
-6
From: brokenspar(at)aol.comstopspam (BrokenSpar)
Subject: RV Homebuilt Aircraft Data Plates......FOR SALE
NNTP-Posting-Host: ladder07.news.aol.com
Date: 28 Jan 2000 06:54:31 GMT
Xref: iad-artgen.news.verio.net rec.aviation.marketplace:8939
I am selling acid etched stainless steel RV homebuilt data plates with the
Van's Air Force logo...see the following for photos:
http://members.aol.com/brokenspar/RVplate.jpg
http://members.aol.com/brokenspar/rv.jpg
I am selling them for $12. each which includes shipping within the U.S.A.
Also have Corben.....Baby Ace....Acro Sport.....Gee Bee
email if you have an interest.
THANK YOU!!
remove "stopspam" to email me
remove "stopspam" to email me
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Time to get an Engine? |
Hi Folks:
As I am moving along quite nicely on the second wing (that learning curve is
a wonderful thing), I am looking forward a bit to construction of the fuse.
Being the planner that I am, I am wondering at what point is having the
engine in house necessary? Can this hefty purchase wait until the finish
kit, or do I need it during construction of the fuse?
Also, are there any problems/hints that I should know as to installing the
0320 160hp that Vans sells in a 6A.....like what accessories will fit in
regards to the nosewheel strut? Just trying to do some hopefully not too
long-range planning here.
Thanks in advance
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
second wing...priming all sorts of parts
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet identification |
I can see how not having the original packing list is a bummer, maybe you
can get a copy from another local builder or send me your fax number off
list and I'll send you a copy. I used the packing list and put the bagged
parts into one of those multiple tray storage units sold by Home Depot and
others. Maybe the new SOURCERV has this or can post it. By the way, how
about a comment on the SOURCERV from subscribed users for other list
readers. I see that the formal introduction/start of this has been delayed
until March 1. Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: Pat Perry <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 9:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: rivet identification
>
> I keep bumping into the same delema everytime I find a different rivet
spec
> on the drawings. I never had the original packing list from my kit and
had
> to guess at the rivets ID's using aircraft spruce catalog photos and
> descriptions .
>
> Is there a web site that might happen to have all the different rivit
types
> and thier various designations along with an image?
>
> This could really help us less informed builders.
>
> I wish Vans just wrote the actual ID on the bag instead of (or along with)
a
> number.
>
>
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 canopy soaking in the tub
> to help release the #$@#!!@ protective coating!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dustin Norlund <dustin(at)busprod.com> |
| Subject: | Selling RV related items. |
Just a thought but possibly we (the list) should contact an online auction house
such as ebay, ubid, or boxlot. We could have them setup a catagory for RV related
stuff. This would provide a method of selling items that would not anger
anyone. This would provide a simple way to
list things and a single place to look to buy things also. The only bad point
I see is that the auction house would skim 1 or 2 % from us.
Dustin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Time to get an Engine? |
In a message dated 1/29/00 10:51:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, jorear(at)mari.net
writes:
<< Hi Folks:
As I am moving along quite nicely on the second wing (that learning curve is
a wonderful thing), I am looking forward a bit to construction of the fuse.
Being the planner that I am, I am wondering at what point is having the
engine in house necessary? Can this hefty purchase wait until the finish
kit, or do I need it during construction of the fuse? >>
If you know which engine you're going to use (easy if you're buying new from
Van's), there is no need to purchase it until after the finish kit arrives.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
Hi Bud:
Just a couple of ideas. When you are set up at cruise power say 2400 RPM
and 22 inches manifold pressure is your EGT's at peak or can you still get
a rise when you attempt to lean. If you can get a rise , how much?
If it is running too lean when you try leaning further the EGT's should
drop. To me the actual EGT readings are only a reference. These readings
can vary a lot depending on the location of the probes. Also I have found
that there is a wide variation in the mixture to each cylinder on a
carburated Lycoming. In my case changing to fuel injection cured this, now
all four EGT's are exactly the same.
The other thing I might mention is if when your had your carb. apart if for
whatever reason the float level was changed this could also affect the
mixture.
Eustace Bowhay - Blind Bay, B.C. 6A ready to come out of jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
Jeff,
I made the floor of the baggage compartment come out (6 nut plates). Of
course, I have to remember to carry the proper screw driver to be able to
remove the floor. Then I mounted the ELT under the floor. The ant. comes
out through the floor of the fuselage too. Theory, if I land upright I
shouldn't need the ELT, however, if I turn upside down, the ELT ant. will be
pointed up. If the crash is bad enought that I don't survive, I don't care
which way the ant. is pointed.
Tom Gummo
90% done with 90% to go
----- Original Message -----
From: J. Farrar <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 4:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: ELT mount
>
> Need some opinions. I am looking for a mounting location for an ACK EL-01
> elt, the one that is portable and uses d-cell batteries. It needs to be
> accessible for portable use. The only place I can see to mount it is in
the
> rear baggage compartment in my -8A. On the hat shelf with a .025 doubler
> for added stiffness. Does anyone see a problem with this. Is the hat
shelf
> sufficiently stiff for this use? I don't want it tearing out in a crash.
> Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
> Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters |
Here is my question, concern, and thinking:
Has anybody thought of installing or flying with two (yes 2 !) in-line
fuel filters.?? The filters would be loccated on each tank line prior to
reaching the fuel selector. That means a total of 4 in-line filters!
The reason I want to use two filters is screening, e. g. the first is coarse
(in the 60 mesh = 250 um) and the second fine ( in the 200 mesh = 60-80 um
range). The method of reducing screen sizes is currently used in most AC
(see also below). The fine filters are commonly used in racing cars.
I am afraid to use the fine filter only because of rapid plugging in case
there is crudd in the fuel. I have not been able to locate a coarse e. g.
60 mesh in-line filter. Does anybody know of a source a for coarse in-line
see-through fuel filter??
For background information:
In-line filters are used in VariEze, Quicki etc ( according to Aircraft
Spruce) and by some local (Denver area) flying RVs.
The great references of Toni Bingelis (on Engines, mostly RV !) shows a
schematics of fuel system filters (Fig. 2, p. 161). His screen sizes are
1]16 (=1.24mm) mesh in the fuel tank,
2] 60 (=250 um) mesh in the cascolator,
3] 200 (=80 um) mesh in the carburator.
However, Bingelis has the electric fuel pump located AFTER the gascolator in
the engine compartment. Vans shows no fuel filters prior to the FACET
electric fuel pump located inside the cockpit. The FACET pump states to keep
it in a cool place (<140F). That means NOT in the fire-wall foreward location.
I do not want to re-invent the wheel but are concerned that there is a
filter (NOT a fine only) prior to the electric fuel pump. The FACET pump
should be in the cockpit.
Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
Lakewood/ Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Time to get an Engine? |
In a message dated 1/29/2000 12:11:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
> If you know which engine you're going to use (easy if you're buying new
from
> Van's), there is no need to purchase it until after the finish kit
arrives.
>
>
> Kyle Boatright
FWIW, Aero Sport is currently running 5 to 6 months out, at least on the
IO-360 I had quoted. I'm currently working on my first wing and am planning
to place engine and fuselage orders when I start on the second wing. Also, I
understand that Van's is running a good six months out on new Hartzell props.
I'll probably order the prop when I start on the fuselage. YMMV, of course.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
>>People will make arguments about a "proper" design eliminating the
>>need for an accessible fuse/breaker in any given situation. They'll
>>make these arguments AFTER knowing all the circumstances that
>>made the accessible breaker/fuse useful. But it is not possible to
>>anticipate every fault/problem/circumstance that may occur, so I say
>>give the pilot in command maximum control over his aircraft's electrical
>>system. The decision to reset a circuit belongs with the PIC. The
>>decision to power down a circuit belongs with the PIC. I will not hide
>>my breakers/fuses and rob myself of the option of turning off or
>>resetting a circuit in flight, based on my needs and my judgment
>>during the flight.
Suppose you're flying a Cessna or Piper with push-to-reset
only breakers? Do you refuse to rent such a machine because
it lacks important controls?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: breaker welding |
>It came from an alternator circuit and a shorted battery. A friend of mine
>who was in the aircraft at the time reset the breaker twice when it failed
>'on' and then ate the alternator. Luckly he was on the skirt when it
>happened and just shut down and got towed back to the hanger.
On further reflection, I'm thinking perhaps the alternator
was already bad . . . shorted diodes. The breaker popped
because of a very high backfeed fault into the alternator
while the battery was providing the energy necessary to
weld things.
Appreciate your additional data on this phenomenon. I'm going
to include some discussion on it in Rev 9 of the book . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator/Voltage meters |
>
>>
>> the ripple voltage left on a 3-phase alternator's rectified output
>> is about 5% of the average DC . . . for a 14v alternator this is
>> on the order of 700 mV peak to peak. Normally, this isn't a problem
>> for avionics or other accessories designed to run in vehicles
>> of any kind having an alternator/battery power system.
>
>
>Is that 5% with a battery in the circuit? Or just a small DC source for
>field excitation? I went and checked the alternator in my Mazda (car) and
>it had at least 1.8 V peak to peak according to the scope.
No, that's the theoretical value of ripple when you rectify
3-phase ac into a purely resistive load. You can overlap
three sine-waves displaced 120 degrees from each other, take
only the waveform above the overlapped envelope of the three
waveforms and you get the 5% value.
In an alernator, you'll get some additional little spikey
noises due to ringing of the alternator windings as the diodes
switch into and out of conduction. Depending on alternator
loads, switching speed of diodes, inductance of widings,
these lower energy components may well exceed the basic
AC ripple left over for rectified 3-phase.
Given that they are lower energy and short duration (higher
frequency) these are the components that benefit from
filtering at the rear of the alternator (Fat capacitor).
Local filtering is suggested when you have an ADF or Loran
that fusses about alternator noise.
The lower frequency component (true ripple from rectification
of AC) is VERY difficult to filter and is generally mitigated
>>
>> It's true that some digital meters are sensitive to this kind of
>> noise and will benefit from some filtering. The DC meter modules
>> I use the most have a 10 to 100 Megohm input impedance so adding
>> 10K of series resistance in the meter's sense lead doesn't upset
>> the calibration much . . less than 0.1%. After the resistor
>> is added, you put a capacitor across the meter's input terminals,
>> anything 0.1 uF up to 10 uF is fine . . . 1.0 uF and larger tend
>> to be electrolytics so observe polarity.
>>
>> This simple R/C filter will calm the little fellers down so that
>> their readings are accurate.
>
>
>The R/C filter is a good recommendation. I should have said that also. I
>have mine in a small plastic box with lead jacks for my meter. I used a 22K
>in series with the positive lead and a 10uF tantilum capacitor and a 0.1uF
>ceramic. It had been so long I had to open the box to remember.
That would do it . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters |
The reason that in-line filters were used in VariEzes was Burt lived in the
desert and didn't have moisture problems. If I remember right this was
quickly changed to a gascolator as water can be a big problem. With the
composite planes, there was an awful lot of junk that washed out of the
tank in the first couple hours. This would quickly plug the fine mesh of an
inline. Since yours is metal airplane, you should have the problem, but why
not go with the proven Gascolator system? If you filter what goes in the
tank, then there should not be a problem.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 2:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters
>
>Here is my question, concern, and thinking:
>Has anybody thought of installing or flying with two (yes 2 !) in-line
>fuel filters.?? The filters would be loccated on each tank line prior to
>reaching the fuel selector. That means a total of 4 in-line filters!
>The reason I want to use two filters is screening, e. g. the first is
coarse
>(in the 60 mesh = 250 um) and the second fine ( in the 200 mesh = 60-80 um
>range). The method of reducing screen sizes is currently used in most AC
>(see also below). The fine filters are commonly used in racing cars.
>I am afraid to use the fine filter only because of rapid plugging in case
>there is crudd in the fuel. I have not been able to locate a coarse e. g.
>60 mesh in-line filter. Does anybody know of a source a for coarse in-line
>see-through fuel filter??
>
>For background information:
>In-line filters are used in VariEze, Quicki etc ( according to Aircraft
>Spruce) and by some local (Denver area) flying RVs.
>
>The great references of Toni Bingelis (on Engines, mostly RV !) shows a
>schematics of fuel system filters (Fig. 2, p. 161). His screen sizes are
>1]16 (=1.24mm) mesh in the fuel tank,
>2] 60 (=250 um) mesh in the cascolator,
>3] 200 (=80 um) mesh in the carburator.
>However, Bingelis has the electric fuel pump located AFTER the gascolator
in
>the engine compartment. Vans shows no fuel filters prior to the FACET
>electric fuel pump located inside the cockpit. The FACET pump states to
keep
>it in a cool place (<140F). That means NOT in the fire-wall foreward
location.
>
>I do not want to re-invent the wheel but are concerned that there is a
>filter (NOT a fine only) prior to the electric fuel pump. The FACET pump
>should be in the cockpit.
>
>
> Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
>Lakewood/ Denver, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Zaloom" <czaloom(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters |
Curious, has anyone seen in-line filters on any certified aircraft?
I'm very leery of them -- they'll protect the engine to the point of
starving it. That's fine for a car or boat, but they don't separate large
quantities of junk at high flow rates the way a gascolator does, nor is
there a drain or reasonable inspection access.
It may be just as well to let anything small enough to get through Bingelis'
3 screens to go through the engine. It'll probably be an infrequent event
and I guess I'd accept status quo (imperfect filtration/shorter engine life)
over stoppage and a forced landing. It may be significant that TB doesn't
mention in-lines...
-Z
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lothar Klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2000 2:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters
>
> Here is my question, concern, and thinking:
> Has anybody thought of installing or flying with two (yes 2 !) in-line
> fuel filters.?? The filters would be loccated on each tank line prior to
> reaching the fuel selector. That means a total of 4 in-line filters!
> The reason I want to use two filters is screening, e. g. the first is
coarse
> (in the 60 mesh = 250 um) and the second fine ( in the 200 mesh = 60-80 um
> range). The method of reducing screen sizes is currently used in most AC
> (see also below). The fine filters are commonly used in racing cars.
> I am afraid to use the fine filter only because of rapid plugging in case
> there is crudd in the fuel. I have not been able to locate a coarse e. g.
> 60 mesh in-line filter. Does anybody know of a source a for coarse
in-line
> see-through fuel filter??
>
> For background information:
> In-line filters are used in VariEze, Quicki etc ( according to Aircraft
> Spruce) and by some local (Denver area) flying RVs.
>
> The great references of Toni Bingelis (on Engines, mostly RV !) shows a
> schematics of fuel system filters (Fig. 2, p. 161). His screen sizes are
> 1]16 (=1.24mm) mesh in the fuel tank,
> 2] 60 (=250 um) mesh in the cascolator,
> 3] 200 (=80 um) mesh in the carburator.
> However, Bingelis has the electric fuel pump located AFTER the gascolator
in
> the engine compartment. Vans shows no fuel filters prior to the FACET
> electric fuel pump located inside the cockpit. The FACET pump states to
keep
> it in a cool place (<140F). That means NOT in the fire-wall foreward
location.
>
> I do not want to re-invent the wheel but are concerned that there is a
> filter (NOT a fine only) prior to the electric fuel pump. The FACET pump
> should be in the cockpit.
>
>
> Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
> Lakewood/ Denver, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Jeff,
Dave & I placed our ACK ELT behind the baggage compartment,as follows:
We placed the rear battery shelf per plans and attached two pieces of angle
(cross wise) to the battery tray. The battery tray is bolted to the floor
lonerons (pre plans and the cross members' end to the side lonerons. Looking
aft our Powersonic 19 amp battery is secured to the battery tray. The ELT
mount is bolted to scrap of .125 AL (that is riveted to the two pieces of
angle) on the right of the battery. We mounted our Whelen power supply to
the left of the battery, by bolting it directly to the angles.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A ( will be riveting the canopy tomorrow)
Niantic, CT
>From: "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: , "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: ELT mount
>Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 17:38:56 -0700
>
>
>Need some opinions. I am looking for a mounting location for an ACK EL-01
>elt, the one that is portable and uses d-cell batteries. It needs to be
>accessible for portable use. The only place I can see to mount it is in
>the
>rear baggage compartment in my -8A. On the hat shelf with a .025 doubler
>for added stiffness. Does anyone see a problem with this. Is the hat
>shelf
>sufficiently stiff for this use? I don't want it tearing out in a crash.
>Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
>Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Standardized List Sales/apology |
Charlie,
Thanks for the consideration. I must admit that I was surprised by that
post. I have always considered your posts very relevant to the issue and
well stated. We all have a flyer once in a while. ;-) I know I do.
Thanks for responding so positively, now let's let it die. Al
>Al (and the rest of the list),
>
>My apologies.
>
>Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters |
It should have said NOT have the problem with metal tanks. By the way,
There aren't any inline filters in the gas supply of certified airplanes.
FAA won't certify it any other way.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters
>
>The reason that in-line filters were used in VariEzes was Burt lived in the
>desert and didn't have moisture problems. If I remember right this was
>quickly changed to a gascolator as water can be a big problem. With the
>composite planes, there was an awful lot of junk that washed out of the
>tank in the first couple hours. This would quickly plug the fine mesh of
an
>inline. Since yours is metal airplane, you should have the problem, but
why
>not go with the proven Gascolator system? If you filter what goes in the
>tank, then there should not be a problem.
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 2:10 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters
>
>
>
>>
>>Here is my question, concern, and thinking:
>>Has anybody thought of installing or flying with two (yes 2 !) in-line
>>fuel filters.?? The filters would be loccated on each tank line prior to
>>reaching the fuel selector. That means a total of 4 in-line filters!
>>The reason I want to use two filters is screening, e. g. the first is
>coarse
>>(in the 60 mesh = 250 um) and the second fine ( in the 200 mesh = 60-80 um
>>range). The method of reducing screen sizes is currently used in most AC
>>(see also below). The fine filters are commonly used in racing cars.
>>I am afraid to use the fine filter only because of rapid plugging in case
>>there is crudd in the fuel. I have not been able to locate a coarse e. g.
>>60 mesh in-line filter. Does anybody know of a source a for coarse
in-line
>>see-through fuel filter??
>>
>>For background information:
>>In-line filters are used in VariEze, Quicki etc ( according to Aircraft
>>Spruce) and by some local (Denver area) flying RVs.
>>
>>The great references of Toni Bingelis (on Engines, mostly RV !) shows a
>>schematics of fuel system filters (Fig. 2, p. 161). His screen sizes are
>>1]16 (=1.24mm) mesh in the fuel tank,
>>2] 60 (=250 um) mesh in the cascolator,
>>3] 200 (=80 um) mesh in the carburator.
>>However, Bingelis has the electric fuel pump located AFTER the gascolator
>in
>>the engine compartment. Vans shows no fuel filters prior to the FACET
>>electric fuel pump located inside the cockpit. The FACET pump states to
>keep
>>it in a cool place (<140F). That means NOT in the fire-wall foreward
>location.
>>
>>I do not want to re-invent the wheel but are concerned that there is a
>>filter (NOT a fine only) prior to the electric fuel pump. The FACET pump
>>should be in the cockpit.
>>
>>
>> Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
>>Lakewood/ Denver, CO
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 639 & 640 forward seat skins |
After fitting the 639 & 640 forward seat skins the 639 does not overlap
the 640 enough to have the screws that hold them have enough room without
being to close to the edge of 639. The 640 is ok. I did not remove any more
material than was necessary to fit them to the side of the fuselage and the
ribs are straight. Has anybody got an answer as to why this is?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Flap Retrofit to RV-4 |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)juno.com> |
Don,
By all means, retrofit to electric flaps. The stock flap arangement on
the RV-4 is the only miserable part on a terrific airplane. I retrofitted
my original RV-4 and installed electric from the get go on the new one.
The manual flaps can be made to work by "pre-twisting" the flap lever so
that the twist that is imparted by pulling the flaps on is cancelled out,
but it still requires a lot of muscle.
Regards, Bill N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Edmondson" <tazman(at)lakemartin.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV-6 Kit Forsale |
----- Original Message -----
RV-6 Empenage and Wing kit for sale. The empenage kit is 95% complete. The
wing kit which has the Phlogiston spar has been uncrated but not touched
since. Both kits are before the pre-punched era. Does not have electric trim
or any other options. I am located in east central Alabama, 120 miles
southwest of Atlanta. Will sell both kits for $4900.00. Bought a Stearman.
If you need more info, e-mail or call me.
Joe Edmondson
256-825-8929
tazman(at)lakemartin.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Component Safetying |
>From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine Component Safetying
>Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 21:22:10 EST
>
>
>I've got 3 things to safety wire, but can only find two places to tie off
>the
>safety wire...
>
>Items to safety:
>
>1) Oil filter (on a spin-on adapter). It looks like this safety's through
>a
>hole near the top of the spin on adapter.
>
>2) Vernatherm. Looks like this safety's through a hole near the bottom of
>the spin on adapter.
>
>3) Oil temperature sensor. Could safety through the same hole as the oil
>filter, but I doubt it... What gives??
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kyle Boatright
Kyle,
It just so happens that I'm doing the same thing today. I'm changing out the
oil screen housing for a spin on adapter. Safety the temp sensor to the
little hole right where it screws into the housing. Safety the filter and
the vernatherm to the lower hole. It really doesn't matter where you wire
the stuff, as long as the parts absolutely cannot loosen. It doesn't have
to be pretty, just effective.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
More mountain flying today. Can you say...tur..bu lence??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | More flight comments, RV8 N94BD |
Greetings all,
After 27 hours of RV grins, I thought I'd share a few more flight testing
comments. First of all, I'm really not doing any serious, scientific data
acquisition, but just getting a good feel for what this planes likes and
does not like.
1. Landing: 75mph indicated (in my plane, your mph may vary) at solo weight
on final works well. The time spent in the flare is just about right so you
don't burn up a lot of runway. I was using 80mph for quite a while and just
kept sailing down the runway waiting for it to quit flying. Amazing what
5mph can do. Still, start out at 80 in your plane and see how it feels.
If you put it on straight, it will roll straight. Put it on in a crab, and
you'll be fighting it down the runway. So, kick that nose straight...not
sorta straight....but STRAIGHT! Nuff said.
2. Spins. Whoa...be careful here. I tried spins to the left today. I went
waaaay up to 10,000' and did the usual clearing turns with a couple G's on
it to kill off speed. Then, power back to idle, nose up, hold it, feel the
shudder....then full left rudder....ok...I'm waiting...there it goes! It
felt more like a wingover entry and the nose was much too low, or at least
it looked that way. I didn't let if fully develop because I had a feeling
in my gut that I was entering a spiral and the wing wasn't fully stalled.
So, after about one and a half turns, stick forward and opposite rudder
followed by a GENTLE pullout registering 3G on the meter had me back in the
realm of straight and level flight. The speed never got critical, but
certainly could have if I spent more time with the nose pointed straight
down..as in a competition spin exit downline. To future new RV pilots: When
thy nose is pointed earthward, you shall approach warp drive speed in a
hurry!
Something that REALLY got my attention was a loud bang type of noise during
the spin rotation...I mean an oil canning type of noise. I think it was that
flimsy feeling belly skin between the 808 and 809 bulkheads. All checks of
the tail structure after the flight were normal. That belly skin does pop
and flex a lot though. I might proseal a stiffener angle down there. The -8
really makes a racket when it's stalling, or spinning. So, rest assured, you
will KNOW when it's ready to quit flying! The whole plane shakes, shudders
and rattles. Not having this type of experience in other RV's, I cannot say
if it's solely an RV8 behaviour or not.
Oh and YES, I was wearing my parachute, and YES I've done spins before. I
was also within gliding distance of a runway in case the Lycosaur decided
to take a nap.
3. Cross country ground speeds at my typical cruise altitudes of nine to
eleven thousand feet at full throttle (2650rpm is all I can get) have
averaged 190mph. Fastest groundspeed to date: 235mph. Yes, it does get
windy here. I still don't have the wheel pants on. OK OK! I'll get to
it...someday.
4. Climb rates with the Sensenich -83" pitch on the O-360 180hp have been
about 1200fpm with a moderate deck angle so I can (hopefully) see traffic
ahead before we swap paint....er, well I get paint on my UNPAINTED plane
from another plane. You get my meaning. I haven't nailed down the climb
speeds exactly. 100mph indicated gives me this rate and steeper climb
angles push temps up rather quickly. When my CHT is pushing 500 degrees,
it's time to lower the nose. Simple as that. The engine seems happier with
100mph or more showing, and really lugs down at slower climb speeds.
5. Rolls: Easy! At full throttle, pitch up well above the horizon, lock
that pitch angle, then full aileron. It's not on par with a Pitt's, but is
over in a couple of seconds. As long as the pitchup is sufficient and no
elevator is added during the roll, the nose will end up right on the
horizon. With an inverted oil and fuel system, you could clean up the roll
and keep the nose on the horizon throughout the maneuver....as long as the
pilot does his job. I did notice the stick pulsing at full aileron
deflection. It's not alarming at all, just a subtle vibration felt in the
stick and you really have to put it against the stops to feel it.
6. Mechanical trims: The vernier elevator trim cable works GREAT. It's very
smooth and you soon get a feel for it. Placing it per plans on the left
panel, it's just a short reach from the throttle so pitch and power
adjustments are easily accomplished. I put the flap switch right under the
trim knob so all three can be manipulated without reaching. The aileron
trim works well, but is rather stiff and has a lot of preload on the cable.
The springs that attach to the control column could be a bit stiffer to give
a more solid feel. As it is, I have to fiddle with it a bit to get the
desired tension on the column. It just feels "soft". Those springs are a
bear to get attached, and stiffer ones would be even more work, but I think
it would be a better system in the end.
7. Fun factor: It just gets better every flight! These airplanes show you
things that you may never have experienced before: Climb rates that take you
up and over things right NOW, and not after a long, labored climb from miles
away. Speed that gets you there TODAY, refreshed and in comfort.
Maneuverability that just begs to be explored. No more twisting and heaving
on a yoke and stomping on the pedals to turn...you just think of where you
want to go, and the plane goes there. It's truly being "in tune" with the
airplane. If there aren't any RV's at your airport, you will soon become a
celebrity. Everyone wants to see it, and you might have to lock the hangar
doors to get any work done. Press on, build it right and do quality work.
The end result will be more than you ever imagined.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV grins 'o plenty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on TWO In-line Fuel Filters |
>
>Here is my question, concern, and thinking:
>Has anybody thought of installing or flying with two (yes 2 !) in-line
>fuel filters.?? The filters would be loccated on each tank line prior to
>reaching the fuel selector. That means a total of 4 in-line filters!
I tried something similar in my 'other RV', that is to say, my motorhome,
and would NOT do anything of the kind in an aircraft. I think it is a
reasonable test bed for this installation since it burns 8 to 10 Gallons
per hour under load. Other similarities are dual fuel tanks, selected
independently, a single, inline electric fuel pump, and a single
engine-driven fuel pump.
I got carried away with fuel filters because the documentation for the
electric boost pump I installed required filters prior to the pump. I'd
had a problem with the electrically controlled tank selection valve being
full of rust and decided that a filter needed to be inline prior to the
valve as well.
Long story short, you can have too many filters in a line. If you do try
the filter to filter setup, be very sure you do good flow testing before
you fly. I had problems with fuel starvation after sustained full-throttle
operation (climbing long grades) and frequent partial vapor-locks.
Really not worth the trouble.
Even if the flow had been acceptable, there were other problems to
consider. I tried several different kinds of filters. Some, notably the
translucent filters with what appears to be paper elements from NAPA would
not pass water. That is, when even a small amount of water in the system
reached the filter it would partially block the filter and significantly
reduce the flow rate.
The clear glass filters with replaceable fine mesh plastic elements were
more tolerant of water, but needed to be changed very freqently. The
documentation suggests they be replaced every 5000 miles when used in an
automobile. In a motorhome that translates to about every 1000 miles -
probably about every 10 hours in an airplane.
Really not worth the trouble.
I haven't finalized my plans for the fuel system in my RV-6A, but I am sure
that if it doesn't look exactly like the one designed by Van it will look
exactly like one in a Cherokee. Without any automotive style inline fuel
filters (or marine filters, although they might be more suitable).
Did I mention I take a bath in gas every time I have to change those filters?
- Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pro-Seal substitute? |
Can anyone offer a reason why I shouldn't use Aircraft Spruce's Pro-Seal
'type' tank sealant? It comes in cartridges (to be dispensed by either hand
or air powered guns) and seems to be a simpler, neater means of attacking
this necessary evil than dixie cups and popsicle sticks with goo everywhere.
The listed Milspec is: MIL-S-8802E, Type II, Class B-2
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
George O. shows, in his -8 wing video, a part number W-423 which attachs to
the inboard leading edge rib to serve as a mounting point for the tank attach
platenuts. I haven't been able to find this part in my kit, plans or manual.
Am I crazy or was it deleted from the kit since the video was made? What,
if anything, took its place? FWIW, I may very well be crazy, anyway. :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal substitute? |
> Can anyone offer a reason why I shouldn't use Aircraft Spruce's Pro-Seal
> 'type' tank sealant? It comes in cartridges (to be dispensed by either
hand
> or air powered guns) and seems to be a simpler, neater means of attacking
> this necessary evil than dixie cups and popsicle sticks with goo
everywhere.
> The listed Milspec is: MIL-S-8802E, Type II, Class B-2
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
Ken,
I used it, works fine. And a lot let messier. I'm told it is exactly the
same stuff. The only problem is that the dispenser is kind of expensive.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel, canopy skirt
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Pro-Seal substitute? |
The applicator gun for the ProSeal works great...hhhmmmm..wondering what
life would be like with out one>>
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2000 6:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: Pro-Seal substitute?
Can anyone offer a reason why I shouldn't use Aircraft Spruce's Pro-Seal
'type' tank sealant? It comes in cartridges (to be dispensed by either
hand
or air powered guns) and seems to be a simpler, neater means of attacking
this necessary evil than dixie cups and popsicle sticks with goo everywhere.
The listed Milspec is: MIL-S-8802E, Type II, Class B-2
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal substitute? |
In a message dated 1/30/2000 11:08:45 AM Eastern Standard Time,
randyl(at)pacifier.com writes:
> Ken,
> I used it, works fine. And a lot let messier. I'm told it is exactly the
> same stuff. The only problem is that the dispenser is kind of expensive.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, panel, canopy skirt
> www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Hi Randy,
Sounds good to me! For myself, I prefer the expense to the mess. I'm pretty
sure that it's similar, if not the same. The Milspecs listed in Van's
catalog & Aicraft Spruce's are different. That aside, I'm going to go ahead
with it. The order goes in tomorrow morning.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal substitute? |
In a message dated 1/30/2000 11:58:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bfiles(at)corecom.net writes:
> The applicator gun for the ProSeal works great...hhhmmmm..wondering what
> life would be like with out one>>
> ***Bryan E. Files***
> A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> Fat City Aircraft
> Palmer, Alaska
> mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
Hi Bryan,
Are you using the hand or air powered gun? I'm inclined toward the air
powered...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cleveland Wheels |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
Are "standard" Cleveland wheels made of magnesium or aluminum. In the
ACS catalog, they list conversion kits as magnesium for general use and
aluminum for "Ag" use.
If they are magnesium, do they need to be etched and alodined before
paining?
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
The W-423 is shown on the packing list as the two strips of aluminum
which are 36.5" long (they are not shown as W-423 except in the
explanation). Look for them under the "AS032...36 1/2" part number...
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2000 9:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: W-423?
>
> George O. shows, in his -8 wing video, a part number W-423 which
attachs to
> the inboard leading edge rib to serve as a mounting point for the tank
attach
> platenuts. I haven't been able to find this part in my kit, plans or
manual.
> Am I crazy or was it deleted from the kit since the video was made?
What,
> if anything, took its place? FWIW, I may very well be crazy, anyway.
:-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
Ken, the w-423 is a 2" wide by 36" (approx) strip that is buried in the
bottom of your wing kit box along with some very similar strips that are
included as practice materials as in the empennage kit. I had a hard time
finding these and other parts on the bottom of the box as I did not inventory
the full wing kit due to a lack of storage space. the W-423 is definitely
needed to connect the fuel tank with the leading edge section. Andy Johnson,
-8, left wing done, started right.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Wheels |
Are you not going to use wheel pants? You can't see the wheels with pants
on, so why paint them?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "b green" <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2000 1:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cleveland Wheels
>
> Are "standard" Cleveland wheels made of magnesium or aluminum. In the
> ACS catalog, they list conversion kits as magnesium for general use and
> aluminum for "Ag" use.
>
> If they are magnesium, do they need to be etched and alodined before
> paining?
>
> Bruce Green
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal substitute? |
->
>
>
>Can anyone offer a reason why I shouldn't use Aircraft Spruce's Pro-Seal
>'type' tank sealant? It comes in cartridges (to be dispensed by either
>hand
>or air powered guns) and seems to be a simpler, neater means of attacking
>this necessary evil than dixie cups and popsicle sticks with goo
>everywhere.
>The listed Milspec is: MIL-S-8802E, Type II, Class B-2
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>wings
>
Ken,
I used one of these to do the stiffeners on the bottom of both tanks. I
worked well and seemed to be exactly the same stuff as you get in the cans
from Van's. For what it's worth, the only leaks I've had have been on those
stiffeners. I really don't think it was the sealant, but the guy using it!
Just wanted to offer my experiences with it. If I had to do it all over
again...(Ack!!)..I'd just use the kit from Van's. It's really not that bad
once you get used to it. I used paper plates and large craft sticks. I
never got a drop on me anywhere. I used a small postal scale found at
Walmart to meter out the white goo with the black goo. Place the paper
plate on the scale, zero the scale, then glop the goo on the plate. Mix
well, smear on toast, enjoy. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
flyin' n smilin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JhnstnIII(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hood-type respirator system |
Listers--Does anyone know where I can get one of those hood-type respirator
systems that fit over your head and down to your shoulders? Does anyone have
experience with such a type? Have been through my catalogs and don't see it.
Looks like it might do a better job of keeping paint out of hair and eyes,
plus I would like to compare price with Hobbyair. Thanks. --LeRoy Johnston,
Columbus, OH, RV-6 empennage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to get an Engine? |
Jeff Orear wrote:
> Being the planner that I am, I am wondering at what point is having the
> engine in house necessary? Can this hefty purchase wait until the finish
> kit, or do I need it during construction of the fuse?
Jeff,
You don't need the engine at all for fuselage construction.
You can even go some way into the finish kit without an engine.
However... if you don't know what engine you're going to use, you can't
buy your engine mount. And the gear legs are match-drilled to the mount,
so you can't get those either. Also, the airscoop is specific to O320 or
O360.
Frank.
(No engine decision made yet, fuselage about complete, starting canopy
work)
RV-6 #24692, Marton, NZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hood-type respirator system |
>
>Listers--Does anyone know where I can get one of those hood-type respirator
>systems that fit over your head and down to your shoulders?
Check the archives as there have been some emails about *MUCH* cheaper
alternatives to the Hobby Aire. Things like simply made hoods and shop
vacs to provide fresh air etc.
Try searching with 'hood' and 'safety'
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to get an Engine? |
>
>Jeff Orear wrote:
> > Being the planner that I am, I am wondering at what point is having the
> > engine in house necessary? Can this hefty purchase wait until the finish
> > kit, or do I need it during construction of the fuse?
I was just thinking about this the other day. I have had this new O360A
for a year now. Had I had the cash in Janus Mercury fund all that time my
engine would have been almost free!
You must have the engine to do cowl, baffles, filtered air box, and
connections - a few weeks. My problem is that poor planning (trying to
make it look as complete as possible) left me with much to do behind the
firewall.
Next time I will do everything - **EVERYTHING** possible firewall back
before getting the engine. Notice "getting" not ordering as they can have
a long lead time. Actually, I might get avionics last since they are so
much like lettuce.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Ken
It is shown on drawing 17 ( top left quarter ) at the tank/leading edge
intersection next to filler cap and is riveted between the inboard
leading edge rib and leading edge skin. It is also show on the same
drawing (17) in detail section E-E'.
Hope this helps.
Gert
8 wings too
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> George O. shows, in his -8 wing video, a part number W-423 which attachs to
> the inboard leading edge rib to serve as a mounting point for the tank attach
> platenuts. I haven't been able to find this part in my kit, plans or manual.
> Am I crazy or was it deleted from the kit since the video was made? What,
> if anything, took its place? FWIW, I may very well be crazy, anyway. :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | A short lecture on precision - was: Voltage meters |
>I was very surprised on the qualitity of the digital meters.
This remark prompts me to give a little lecture.
Two things to learn in today's sermon:
1. Many measurement products are of *VERY* poor quality.
2. Digital instruments are usually not any more accurate than
non-digital.
Here is an enlightening little lab experiment. Go to the hardware store
and check out the wall thermometers. See if you can find two that read the
same. This is most dramatic with the best known brand, Taylor - all their
stuff is awful. I've never check to see if the ones that are close at the
store temp are also same at some other temp. I've never checked them to
see if they are accurate either. They might be the same and off 5 degrees,
huh?
I wonder how the oil temp gauge does with the sender in boiling water?
I just measured one of those little plastic "air aids" you get each year
from AOPA. It is 5 31/32 inches from the 1 to the 6 !!! I haven't double
checked my steel rule, however.
Most electronic digital measurers get an analog value and convert it to
digital. In many of these, the ADC (analog to digital conversion circuit)
is probably pretty cheap but even the most accurate is just reading the
analog indication and converting it. If the analog value is wrong, the
digitization will not improve it.
I recently dismantled a nice little Skyway Precision Tools quarter inch
torque wrench of the click type. It has a little bar -- that is, inside it
is just like the cheap torque wrenches with one heavy bar and one light
one. We are told not to use them on airplanes because they are
inaccurate. Actually, they are quite accurate but very hard to read in
many positions. They get out of whack easily but are easily put back into
whack. The dial type use a dial indicator to measure the bend of the
little bar. You already know about the effects of grease and extreme cold.
Some digital things actually measure a digital type of thing - a discrete
event. For example, a tachometer *MIGHT* be a counter counting the flashes
of light from a tiny bulb that passes by a photocell but most are analog
converted to digital.
Class dismissed!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hood-type respirator system |
> Listers--Does anyone know where I can get one of those hood-type
respirator
> systems that fit over your head and down to your shoulders? Does anyone
have
> experience with such a type? Have been through my catalogs and don't see
it.
> Looks like it might do a better job of keeping paint out of hair and
eyes,
> plus I would like to compare price with Hobbyair.
I used a borrowed Hobbyair and got my own hood from a local safety supply
store (Sanderson's Safety Supply in Portland OR.) Worked well, cost was $65.
I was going to get a hose there too to go from the hood to the Hobbyair but
they wanted $80 for that plus they didn't have the fittings, so I ended up
going to a local hose supply place just a few blocks over (Associated Hose)
and had them put some fittings on the ends of some "food grade" vinyl hose
(that clear stuff with reinforcing webbing underneath, like you see in soda
machines) which cost less than half that.
As I said I used a Hobbyair but there are lots of posts in the archives
about homemade air supply systems.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (in the paint shop)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to get an Engine? |
One thing about buying the engine early on, or first, you will get it
cheaper as the cost increase each year for new at least is more than you can
get for your money at the bank. Who knows where the next lawyer will
strike, increasing the cost of all new engines??
Had a friend that bought an O-360 for his Eagle. Sent it back to the
factory for not one but two AD repairs while he was building.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Date: Sunday, January 30, 2000 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Time to get an Engine?
>
>Jeff Orear wrote:
>> Being the planner that I am, I am wondering at what point is having the
>> engine in house necessary? Can this hefty purchase wait until the finish
>> kit, or do I need it during construction of the fuse?
>
>Jeff,
>
>You don't need the engine at all for fuselage construction.
>
>You can even go some way into the finish kit without an engine.
>However... if you don't know what engine you're going to use, you can't
>buy your engine mount. And the gear legs are match-drilled to the mount,
>so you can't get those either. Also, the airscoop is specific to O320 or
>O360.
>
>Frank.
>(No engine decision made yet, fuselage about complete, starting canopy
>work)
>RV-6 #24692, Marton, NZ)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Time to get an Engine? |
> You must have the engine to do cowl, baffles, filtered air box, and
> connections - a few weeks.
A few weeks?!? Hal, you must be a full timer - we non-retired guys aren't
so fast. I think it took a week just to get the cowl trimmed, and a few
more to get it drilled in.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Airshow downunder |
Hi,
Just a note to let interested parties (who may happen to be in New Zealand
in a fortnight's time) know that the annual airshow (for sport fliers!) is
to be held February 11-13 with the main show day being the Saturday 12.
L.Coats RV6 ZK-RVL 357.5hr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: J Stringer Add-ons - RV6 |
Dave,
I just finished riveting the bottom fuselage skins on my 6A. The bottom
aft fuse skin came out tight with no tendancy to oil can. I can't see
any reason to add J stringers between the 606 and 608 bulkheads. Also,
I have not heard of any builders doing this.
Steve Allison
Fitting the gear.
San Jose, CA
David Wentzell wrote:
>
>
> Greetings
> I have heard that some builders have added two J Stringers to the
> bottom of the fuse between bulkheads 606 & 608 , and then one centered
> between the
> 608 & 610.
> Has anyone done this? and / or, would recomend it??
> I can certainly see that it would be real easy to get carried away with
> this sort of thing and I am constantly holding myself back from doing exactly
> that.
>
> So ... comments??
>
> David Wentzell
> RV6 Fuse (starting to take shape)
> Racine Wisconsin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Lane" <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM> |
| Subject: | pitot tube rourting |
for rv-8 builders. where have you found to be the best route for the pitot tube
from the wing to the instrument panel? forward through the spar box, or up to
the top longeron and then forward with the static line? Comments on this appreciated,
because unlike the 3 or 6, the pitot tube runs behind aft of the wing
spar. J Lane
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/30/2000 12:34:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com writes:
> Ken, the w-423 is a 2" wide by 36" (approx) strip that is buried in the
> bottom of your wing kit box along with some very similar strips that are
> included as practice materials as in the empennage kit. I had a hard time
> finding these and other parts on the bottom of the box as I did not
> inventory
> the full wing kit due to a lack of storage space. the W-423 is definitely
> needed to connect the fuel tank with the leading edge section. Andy
Johnson,
>
> -8, left wing done, started right.
OK, I'm an idiot. I'd even looked through those parts on the bottom of the
box when I inventoried the kit, then promptly forgot about them. They're
down there, alright.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/30/2000 1:58:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gert(at)execpc.com writes:
> Ken
>
> It is shown on drawing 17 ( top left quarter ) at the tank/leading edge
> intersection next to filler cap and is riveted between the inboard
> leading edge rib and leading edge skin. It is also show on the same
> drawing (17) in detail section E-E'.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Gert
>
> 8 wings too
It sure is shown on Drawing 17 right where you say it is. I jumped the gun
and my 'thorough' look through the plans, the manual & the kit was anything
but. Consider it a lesson learned... :-) Thanks for pointing me in the
right direction.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/30/2000 12:28:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mddickens(at)mindspring.com writes:
> The W-423 is shown on the packing list as the two strips of aluminum
> which are 36.5" long (they are not shown as W-423 except in the
> explanation). Look for them under the "AS032...36 1/2" part number...
Found 'em. Thanks for the hint.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal substitute? |
In a message dated 1/30/2000 12:41:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Ken,
>
> I used one of these to do the stiffeners on the bottom of both tanks. I
> worked well and seemed to be exactly the same stuff as you get in the cans
> from Van's. For what it's worth, the only leaks I've had have been on
those
> stiffeners. I really don't think it was the sealant, but the guy using it!
> Just wanted to offer my experiences with it. If I had to do it all over
> again...(Ack!!)..I'd just use the kit from Van's. It's really not that bad
> once you get used to it. I used paper plates and large craft sticks. I
> never got a drop on me anywhere. I used a small postal scale found at
> Walmart to meter out the white goo with the black goo. Place the paper
> plate on the scale, zero the scale, then glop the goo on the plate. Mix
> well, smear on toast, enjoy. :)
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> flyin' n smilin'
Hi Brian,
Just curious, but why would you use Van's sealant kit if you had to do it
over? Even if the measuring, mixing & glopping is not too stressful, why
bother with it at all if the cartridges make it unnecessary? Assuming that
your leaks were really the fault of the applicator, not the applicant, as it
were... :-) Am I missing something?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal substitute? |
>
>Hi Brian,
>
>Just curious, but why would you use Van's sealant kit if you had to do it
>over? Even if the measuring, mixing & glopping is not too stressful, why
>bother with it at all if the cartridges make it unnecessary? Assuming that
>your leaks were really the fault of the applicator, not the applicant, as
>it
>were... :-) Am I missing something?
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>wings
The main reason I abandoned the cartridges was due to cost, and the stuff is
so thick that it pretty much destroyed the caulking gun I was using. Using a
super heavy duty gun would be the way to go for sure. Or, isn't there a
pneumatic applicator? Even better yet, but I didn't want to spend more
money to do something that I can do myself with a couple dollar's worth of
paper plates and mixing sticks. By using the "black death in a can", you
can also custom mix exactly the amount you need. Once you charge the
cartridge and get it all mixed up, you'd better use it up because the clock
is running. I found two hours to be the maximum working time during the
summer.
If you use the cartridges, you will save yourself the weighing of the two
parts and get a very accurate mix every time. You will still have to smear
the goo around where you need it on your tank parts. So, you will still get
your hands, riveting tools and clecos messy. The cartridges don't save you
from this....only the sheer grace of God and living a clean life devoid of
frivolous fun and debauchery will save you from this. OK, maybe not. Either
way, you'll get it done and have a flying airplane. Believe it or not, I
developed a fondness for the sealant. I actually started to ENJOY playing
with it! Yes, I'm not well. Not well at all. *twitch*
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
at work but wanna fly! Superbowl?? Who cares when you have an RV?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal substitute? |
I have a friend in the Air Nat Guard that gave me some Sealant they used
on C-130 that came from Lockheed. It is MIL-S-8802, type II, Class B2.
Looks just like proseal after mixing. It comes with a Dasher Rod that
does the mixing in the cartridge. I mixed it and used latex gloves and
popsicle sticks to apply. It was made by Piedmont Adhesive & Sealant
Systems, Inc. , 84 Patterson Road, Lawrenceville, Ga. 30244.
404-563-3653. Could be the same stuff Aircraft Spruce is selling.
Earl, RV-4 finish kit
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone offer a reason why I shouldn't use Aircraft Spruce's Pro-Seal
> 'type' tank sealant? It comes in cartridges (to be dispensed by either hand
> or air powered guns) and seems to be a simpler, neater means of attacking
> this necessary evil than dixie cups and popsicle sticks with goo everywhere.
> The listed Milspec is: MIL-S-8802E, Type II, Class B-2
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
INTERESTED IN PURCHASING QUALITY BUILT RV6A WITHOUT ENGINE
Tremsc(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 0320 Engine for sale |
FOR SALE -
0320 E2D ENGINE
TT - 2000
-0- - SMOH including millinium cylinders
CERTIFIED INCLUDING LOGS
$12500.00
Tremsc(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: J Stringer Add-ons - RV6 |
Yes, I did that on the two RV-6 aircraft I'm building because every RV 6 I
flew in formation with had severe oil can deflection in that area. This can
only lead to premature cracking and this way the problem can be fixed before
a crack can begin. We are not talking about much weight at all and it is a
simple addition during the construction process.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S N250GS Canopy and wiring
Phoenix DVT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
Couldn't stand another day of Bill's grin.
So, with 2 hours on the old tack-o-meter,
N110KB and I consummated our relationship
in .8 hour south of Pueblo airport in the practice
area.
After all, I did help build her, and I didn't want
her to get too used to only Bill's touch in the air.
We were compatible from the taxi all the way
through the final flare. What an experience!
Now Bill and I have matching RV grins, and a lot
of thanks to everyone on the list for support.
Kathy Peck
N110KB FLYING!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for RV-6 project. Good workmanship a must. Without engine,
instruments, or interior is OK.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV3 Performance Enhancements |
The two easiest and possibly most effective performance
enhancements you should do is get a set of two piece
wheel fairings and fit them them with minimal clearance
to the tires. Next is try to eliminate trim drag. Be careful
in aligning your wheel pants and gearleg fairings. Are your
elevators in perfect trail at your normal high speed cruise
speed? If not re-shim the horizontal. If you've got a BUTT
(big ugly trim tab) on your rudder, reposition your vertical
stabilizer for 'feet off' at your cruise speed. I don't think
the fancy wing to fuselage fairings do much for you except
in high angle of attack situations. At least that's my experience.
Now that you've got a straight airframe you can start to spend
$ on engine enhancements. It'll never end.
Good Luck
Tom
RV3 978TM
Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> Has anyone made any minor airframe modifications to a stock RV3 like
> additional fairings, gap seals, etc. (unless they are keeping them secret)
> and noticed performance improvements.
>
> My RV3 flies as advertised which is great. However, I see nifty wing root
> fairings on some planes and Mooneys have nice tight aileron and elevator
> seals. If anyone has tried a mod and found it of questionable benefit or
> that it came with some undesirable side effect I'll know not to try it.
>
> Gray
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Seal substitute? |
In a message dated 01/30/2000 7:36:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Kbalch1(at)aol.com writes:
> Can anyone offer a reason why I shouldn't use Aircraft Spruce's Pro-Seal
> 'type' tank sealant? It comes in cartridges (to be dispensed by either
> hand
> or air powered guns) and seems to be a simpler, neater means of attacking
> this necessary evil than dixie cups and popsicle sticks with goo
everywhere.
>
> The listed Milspec is: MIL-S-8802E, Type II, Class B-2
Ken,
I have used this with good results. The one disadvantage is that you have
to use the whole cartridge at once. Cant mix up just a little bit.
Dale Wotring
RV6A
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Pro-Seal substitute? |
Hi Ken,
I use the pneumatic gun. Spendy buy you will be happy. When you get
finished with it and want to sell it give me a call I can always use
another.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2000 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pro-Seal substitute?
In a message dated 1/30/2000 11:58:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bfiles(at)corecom.net writes:
> The applicator gun for the ProSeal works great...hhhmmmm..wondering what
> life would be like with out one>>
> ***Bryan E. Files***
> A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> Fat City Aircraft
> Palmer, Alaska
> mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
Hi Bryan,
Are you using the hand or air powered gun? I'm inclined toward the air
powered...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance Numbers |
Greetings everyone,,
January 25, 2000 - January 30, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hv