RV-Archive.digest.vol-hw
January 30, 2000 - February 05, 2000
I have a question for the group. I just took all of the distance
measurements needed for my W&B calculations,, axle centerlines, tail
wheel center (I have a RV-4), accessories, oil, seats, etc.
My question is,, have most of you just used the numbers provided for
the basic distances,, such as oil, pilot, passenger, baggage?
The reason I ask is that I seem to have a disparity between what is
provided as an example, versus what I have actually measured. For
example,, the book suggests 40" aft of datum for the oil where my
number is more like 32". The book 40" would place the CG of the oil
near the accessory case. My number is (more or less) at the center of
the oil sump.
Both of the numbers for the pilot and passenger place the center of
mass pretty much in the lap, forward of the belt,, and the way I look
at it, they should be moved aft.
Book numbers for the pilot and passenger are 82.5' and 107" aft of
datum,, my numbers are 86 and 112 respectively.
Now the book numbers for the fuel and baggage appear to be right on the money.
These numbers are all based on a datum that is 60" fwd of the wing LE.
Just curious. Am I sweating the "small stuff" here?
Thanks
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Malfunctioning contactor? |
>Does anyone know if low battery voltage will cause either the master or
>starter contactor (solenoid) to stick? That is, remain engaged when power
>is shut off. BOTH contactors appeared to stick during an engine start
>attempt. Seems like too much of a coincidence for both to malfunction at
>the same time. My battery voltage was low. I cannot see why this would
>happen, but did experience it in a system that has been working with no
>apparent previous problems. Thanks. Ivan Kaiser
>
Yes. In fact this is the most likely scenario for sticking.
Continuous duty contactors have two springs that must be
overcome by battery voltage. The first is a low tension
spring that provides about 0.1" of lift to open the contacts.
A second spring is much higher force and becomes compressed
only after the contactor's solenoid core has seated the
contacts but about 0.03" short of bottoming out. The magnetic
pull produced by the solenoid core rises sharply as it bottoms
out providing the force needed to compress the second stage
spring and insure a low resistance contact.
If the battery voltage is too low, the contactor will close
but the second stage spring won't get compressed. The resulting
loss of contact pressure is conducive to burning and/or
welding of the contacts.
Many builders use the same class of contactor (Continuous
Duty) for starting and with fair success . . . intermittant
duty contactors have much higher initial and final actuation
forces and are much less likely to weld under low battery
conditions.
Those of you interested in seeing the internal workings of
a continuous duty contactor up close are invited to peek
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/c1.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/c2.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/c3.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/c4.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
On 29 Jan 00, at 7:16, Cy Galley wrote:
> I would think a switch would do just fine in 3 out of your 4 examples!!!!
> Fuses or CB being accessible or not have nothing to do with every problem
> in your 6A! Read it again.
My point is perfectly illustrated by Cy's response. AFTER Cy knows
what happened he can pontificate about an alternative (using
switches that aren't there, in this case). But a priori there is was no
reason to have a switch on any of the "3 out of 4 example" circuits, so
I didn't install the unforseen switches. This is precisely why
accessible fuses or circuit breakers are handy - for handling unforseen
events.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Numbers |
--- "Derrick L. Aubuchon" wrote:
>
>
> Greetings everyone,,
>
> I have a question for the group. I just took all of
> the distance
> measurements needed for my W&B calculations,, axle
> centerlines, tail
> wheel center (I have a RV-4), accessories, oil,
> seats, etc.
>
> My question is,, have most of you just used the
> numbers provided for
> the basic distances,, such as oil, pilot, passenger,
> baggage?
--------- snip --------
> Now the book numbers for the fuel and baggage appear
> to be right on the money.
>
> These numbers are all based on a datum that is 60"
> fwd of the wing LE.
>
> Just curious. Am I sweating the "small stuff" here?
> Thanks
> Derrick L. Aubuchon
> n184da(at)pacbell.net
Derrick:
GOOD work. The aircraft does need to be level when
taking the measurements. The only number that I used
was the baggage location. All the other numbers on my
-6 were numbers that I came up with. To find the
pilot location, I put a pilot in the seat with the
aircraft on the scales and then calculated the
station. Same with the fuel and oil. BTW, the
aircraft empty weight should be with all unusable
fluids and the normal amount of oil. I used the
minimum amount of oil (5 qts) in my weight and balance
calculations since that contributes to an aft CG. I
never fill the oil to 8 quarts as it just blows
everything out above 7 on my airplane.
As an old FAA inspector once said: "In God we trust.
Everything else we check."
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Starter engage light |
I want to install a starter engage light in my airplane but I am not sure of the
best way to hook it up. I have a Sky-Tec starter (model 122-12PM) that has two
large threaded studs on the solenoid. The top stud is also has a sheet metal
strap that connects it to a small side terminal were it is sodered on. The
bottom stud has a wire strap that runs to the motor and also a sheet metal strap
that connects to a small side terminal on the opposite side from the first were
it is sodered on. I see my options as follows:
1. Connect a wire from the starter switch to the light. This will tell me if
the switch is stuck on but not if the starter contactor is stuck on.
2. Connect light to output side of starter contactor (same as top starter
terminal). This will tell me if the starter contactor is still connected. Will
it also tell me if the starter is still engaged if the starter contactor is
disconnected and the starter gear has not retracted by sensing electricity
generated by the starter?
3. Connect light to the bottom terminal of the starter. This should also sense
if the starter contactor is disconnected and maybe better sense if electricity
is being generated by the starter. If this is the case would the generated load
overpower the engage warning light?
Why I'm on the subject of starters, I was also trying to determine how to wire
it to stop the momentary permanent magnet starter run on after starting the
engine as descriped in the RVator and by Robert Nuckolls. With no threaded
small terminols on the solenoid mounted on the motor I don't know if it can be
done with this starter.
Thanks for your help.
Frank Smidler
RV-6 work in slow motion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | in-line fuel filters |
I have been running two in-line filters for 2 1/2 years now. Originally I
had the inexpensive paper element ones. After a year I discovered a lump
of very fine fibers in the carb screen. They were translucent and
practically invisible. I then changed to the plastic screen type with a
glass body which can be viewed. Mine are upstream of the selector valve
and electric pump. I have no gascolator. I drain each tank a bit before
each flight and have to taxi a good five minutes before take-off. My setup
passed the FAA inspection(as did a missing rudder bolt!) They are on the
fuse floor ahead of the spar. When removed they can drain the entire tank
so that aspect probably is not the best location for servicing. My pickup
lines are as per plans, slots sawed in the side of the rigid tube. Kevin
-6A 550+hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter engage light |
>
>I want to install a starter engage light in my airplane but I am not sure
of the
>best way to hook it up. I have a Sky-Tec starter (model 122-12PM) that
has two
>large threaded studs on the solenoid. The top stud is also has a sheet metal
>strap that connects it to a small side terminal were it is sodered on. The
>bottom stud has a wire strap that runs to the motor and also a sheet metal
strap
>that connects to a small side terminal on the opposite side from the first
were
>it is sodered on. I see my options as follows:
>
>1. Connect a wire from the starter switch to the light. This will tell
me if
>the switch is stuck on but not if the starter contactor is stuck on.
Not recommended . . .
>2. Connect light to output side of starter contactor (same as top starter
>terminal). This will tell me if the starter contactor is still connected.
Will
>it also tell me if the starter is still engaged if the starter contactor is
>disconnected and the starter gear has not retracted by sensing electricity
>generated by the starter?
The starter has an over-running clutch and won't "generate" if the
pinion doesn't retract . . it just spins the pinion gear at a very
high speed. Does your starter contactor have an "I" terminal? If so,
I'd hook the light up there. This is an excellent place to sense
a stuck starter contactor.
>3. Connect light to the bottom terminal of the starter. This should also
sense
>if the starter contactor is disconnected and maybe better sense if
electricity
>is being generated by the starter. If this is the case would the
generated load
>overpower the engage warning light?
If the starter spins under drive of a runing engine,
the voltage measured there would be on the order of 100 volts or so.
Certainly death to any lamp you would hook up there. Won't happen unless
the over-run clutch has failed too . . . in any case, connecting
the lamp to either an "I" terminal on the starter contactor or to the
starter contactor's output feed is a good way. Be sure to include a fusible
link or other in-line fuse at the source end of the lamp's feedwire.
>Why I'm on the subject of starters, I was also trying to determine how to
wire
>it to stop the momentary permanent magnet starter run on after starting the
>engine as descriped in the RVator and by Robert Nuckolls. With no threaded
>small terminols on the solenoid mounted on the motor I don't know if it
can be
>done with this starter.
Since it is a PM motor, you could rig a contactor to apply a momentary
short across the motors power terminals after the starter contactor
dis-engages. Does the Skytec starter have a small contactor terminal
adjacent to the main power terminal? If so, is it jumpered to the main
power terminal? If so, you could use an auxiliary relay to break this
lead when starter power is removed thus disconnecting the solenoid from
the starter and causing immediate drop out.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Numbers |
All the computations in the world will not replace an actual accurate
weighing. If you want, you can weigh the plane will out oil, then reweigh
with oil, then you can tell the real moment arm. Seat in the plane and
re-weigh and you will know the moment arm for the pilot. You will have to do
some calculation, but from the changes, this will be simple arithmetic.
You are not sweating the "small" stuff. You need to know the actual weight
and balance before you fly and know it changes as you add passengers and
baggage. Don't believe the numbers you se stamped as empty weight on the
data plate. Some of these are and have been as phony as $3 bill.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Derrick L. Aubuchon <n184da(at)pacbell.net>
Date: Sunday, January 30, 2000 10:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Weight and Balance Numbers
>
>Greetings everyone,,
>
>I have a question for the group. I just took all of the distance
>measurements needed for my W&B calculations,, axle centerlines, tail
>wheel center (I have a RV-4), accessories, oil, seats, etc.
>
>My question is,, have most of you just used the numbers provided for
>the basic distances,, such as oil, pilot, passenger, baggage?
>The reason I ask is that I seem to have a disparity between what is
>provided as an example, versus what I have actually measured. For
>example,, the book suggests 40" aft of datum for the oil where my
>number is more like 32". The book 40" would place the CG of the oil
>near the accessory case. My number is (more or less) at the center of
>the oil sump.
>Both of the numbers for the pilot and passenger place the center of
>mass pretty much in the lap, forward of the belt,, and the way I look
>at it, they should be moved aft.
>Book numbers for the pilot and passenger are 82.5' and 107" aft of
>datum,, my numbers are 86 and 112 respectively.
>Now the book numbers for the fuel and baggage appear to be right on the
money.
>
>These numbers are all based on a datum that is 60" fwd of the wing LE.
>
>Just curious. Am I sweating the "small stuff" here?
>Thanks
>Derrick L. Aubuchon
>n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
No, I wouldn't have done what he did. I would never have reset that breaker
twice. I might have reset it once if it was another circuit but not that
one. He doesn't understand much about electricity and has next to no
ability for diagnosing problems. My point, I guess was people do things
like this. I think the solidstate protection devices protect people from
their own actions.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 9:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses
>
>
>>>This is another advantage of the solidstate protection devices. They
won't
>>>>reset unless the short is removed so you don't have to worry about
welded
>>>>contacts(circuit breaker) or inflight fires from putting in a fuse that
is
>>>>over rated by accident.
>>>
>>> . . . hazards that are more fiction than fact . . .
>>
>> what part are you saying is fiction?
>>
>
> Circuit breaker contacts don't weld. Fuses that are not fiddled
> with in flight don't suffer mis-sizing accidents.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> ( time you try something, and it works. )
> ( One fails forward toward success. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: breaker welding |
I'll try to get ahold of him and ask. I can't remember if it happened when
he turned the master on or started the engine.
I'll try to find out. I'll also ask the A&P. He's still here.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 2:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: breaker welding
>
>
>>It came from an alternator circuit and a shorted battery. A friend of
mine
>>who was in the aircraft at the time reset the breaker twice when it failed
>>'on' and then ate the alternator. Luckly he was on the skirt when it
>>happened and just shut down and got towed back to the hanger.
>
> On further reflection, I'm thinking perhaps the alternator
> was already bad . . . shorted diodes. The breaker popped
> because of a very high backfeed fault into the alternator
> while the battery was providing the energy necessary to
> weld things.
>
> Appreciate your additional data on this phenomenon. I'm going
> to include some discussion on it in Rev 9 of the book . . .
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> ( time you try something, and it works. )
> ( One fails forward toward success. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV 6A F-672 bottom front skin |
I dimpled the bottom of the F-672, Question is should the sides be dimpled
also or can they be counter sunk?
Tommy
6A Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | 0320 Engine for sale |
I'm probably too late but... is the engine still available? Where are you
located?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Tremsc(at)aol.com [SMTP:Tremsc(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2000 4:43 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: 0320 Engine for sale
FOR SALE -
0320 E2D ENGINE
TT - 2000
-0- - SMOH including millinium cylinders
CERTIFIED INCLUDING LOGS
$12500.00
Tremsc(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | 0320 Engine for sale |
Van Artsdalen, Scott would like to recall the message, "RV-List: 0320 Engine
for sale".
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Wheels |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
bruce,
i don't know what the "standard" ones are, but the ones that vans supplies
with the finish kits are, i believe, made of an aluminum and magnesium alloy
which does not require corrosion protection. (i assume that is why you want
to paint them, because the wheel pants will cover them up.) in fact, i have
been told that magnesium should NOT be etched (not sure why, maybe someone
can explain). so i don't think this is a case where you want to go for the
belt and suspenders treatment.
i am no expert, and i hope the information i am passing on is correct. but
before you do any etching, check with someone who knows better.
louis cappucci
rv-6a finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
>
>Are "standard" Cleveland wheels made of magnesium or aluminum. In the
>ACS catalog, they list conversion kits as magnesium for general use and
>aluminum for "Ag" use.
>
>If they are magnesium, do they need to be etched and alodined before
>paining?
>
>Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
This is for the relatively new builders....
There are a few jobs on the RV's that are legendary for being difficult
tasks. ie the Fuel Tanks, the Canopy
and the Cowl. We who read the list daily are left with an aura of the
difficulty surrounding these jobs to the
point where the challange seems overwhelming. I, like others have fallen
into this trap, but upon completeing
the task, look back and see that it wasn't as big a deal as I thought it
would be.
Prosealing the tanks is one of these fears. Let me assure you, that it is no
big deal. The mixture is not as critcal
as you are made to believe, and it is only as messy as you let it be.
If you dig through the archives from a few years ago, you can get some great
tips on how to meter out the correct
quantities with measuring spoons. It worked for me and others as well.
If you cut up a stack of 2-3" squares made from heavy paper shop type
towels and have a short stack of them
soaking in laquer thinner, you can reach for them at will and keep things
clean. Do a couple of ribs only per session
and the job will be done before you know it. A large supply of cheap
surgical gloves worn in two layers will keep
the proseal off of you.
There is very litte difference in building the tanks and the leading edge
section that it butts up against.
Don't let the "urban folklore" keep you from building. Remember....2500
other guys have done it before you !
Ed Cole
RV6A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Numbers |
I agree that the actual station point(s) for items ( pilot, passenger,
baggage,oil) need to be dead-nuts on & accurate as far as inches to the
datum....I am at a loss to understand by weighing you can determine these values
(datum).....?? help
cgalley(at)accessus.net on 01/29/2000 09:53:45 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight and Balance Numbers
All the computations in the world will not replace an actual accurate
weighing. If you want, you can weigh the plane will out oil, then reweigh
with oil, then you can tell the real moment arm. Seat in the plane and
re-weigh and you will know the moment arm for the pilot. You will have to do
some calculation, but from the changes, this will be simple arithmetic.
You are not sweating the "small" stuff. You need to know the actual weight
and balance before you fly and know it changes as you add passengers and
baggage. Don't believe the numbers you se stamped as empty weight on the
data plate. Some of these are and have been as phony as $3 bill.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Derrick L. Aubuchon <n184da(at)pacbell.net>
Date: Sunday, January 30, 2000 10:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Weight and Balance Numbers
>
>Greetings everyone,,
>
>I have a question for the group. I just took all of the distance
>measurements needed for my W&B calculations,, axle centerlines, tail
>wheel center (I have a RV-4), accessories, oil, seats, etc.
>
>My question is,, have most of you just used the numbers provided for
>the basic distances,, such as oil, pilot, passenger, baggage?
>The reason I ask is that I seem to have a disparity between what is
>provided as an example, versus what I have actually measured. For
>example,, the book suggests 40" aft of datum for the oil where my
>number is more like 32". The book 40" would place the CG of the oil
>near the accessory case. My number is (more or less) at the center of
>the oil sump.
>Both of the numbers for the pilot and passenger place the center of
>mass pretty much in the lap, forward of the belt,, and the way I look
>at it, they should be moved aft.
>Book numbers for the pilot and passenger are 82.5' and 107" aft of
>datum,, my numbers are 86 and 112 respectively.
>Now the book numbers for the fuel and baggage appear to be right on the
money.
>
>These numbers are all based on a datum that is 60" fwd of the wing LE.
>
>Just curious. Am I sweating the "small stuff" here?
>Thanks
>Derrick L. Aubuchon
>n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Malfunctioning contactor? |
Thanks for the pictures Bob. Now that I have looked at them, what is a
3 contact solenoid for?
How do I wire an idiot light to tell me the starter is powered? Can I
take a wire from the starter side of the contactor to the light and then
ground or will that fry the light? Same question for a boost pump on
light. I don't have a noisy Facet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Source for fuse blocks that take auto fuses |
Why not make the fuses accessible if for no other reason than easy mx on
the ground? If you can't then so be it. Let's give the pilot as many
options as possible. It's should be up to the pilot whether to exercise
them or not, not the designer. Of course we just happen to be both.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Numbers |
I think there is some inconsistency between using whatever moment arms were used
by Van's to establish safe CG limits and those you believe are more accurate by
your own measurements. In other words, if there were mistakes made originally
in
establishing the CG limits because of inaccurate moment arms, shouldn't the CG
limits be changed when you determine the "accurate" moment arms? IMHO, using one
set of CG limits with the other set of moment arms seems logically inconsistent.
Thus, if you are able to estimate the CG perfectly with respect to all of the
non-empty-weight items using moment arms that differ from Van's, won't you then
need to conduct a comprehensive test flight program to determine the "correct"
CG
limits? (BTW, oil should be included in the aircraft empty weight.)
One might illuminate the importance of these issues by calculating the CG twice,
once with each set of moment arms, and observe the total effect. As Gary and Cy
suggest, accurate moment arms are best estimated empirically, rather than by
measurement alone. For example, when you decided that the CG of the pilot should
not be forward of the lap belt, did you account for leg weight and length? For
the angle of the seat back? For shoe size and weight? For a flat vs. protruding
belly? :
)
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
"Derrick L. Aubuchon" wrote:
>
> Greetings everyone,,
>
> I have a question for the group. I just took all of the distance
> measurements needed for my W&B calculations,, axle centerlines, tail
> wheel center (I have a RV-4), accessories, oil, seats, etc.
>
> My question is,, have most of you just used the numbers provided for
> the basic distances,, such as oil, pilot, passenger, baggage?
> The reason I ask is that I seem to have a disparity between what is
> provided as an example, versus what I have actually measured. For
> example,, the book suggests 40" aft of datum for the oil where my
> number is more like 32". The book 40" would place the CG of the oil
> near the accessory case. My number is (more or less) at the center of
> the oil sump.
> Both of the numbers for the pilot and passenger place the center of
> mass pretty much in the lap, forward of the belt,, and the way I look
> at it, they should be moved aft.
> Book numbers for the pilot and passenger are 82.5' and 107" aft of
> datum,, my numbers are 86 and 112 respectively.
> Now the book numbers for the fuel and baggage appear to be right on the money.
>
> These numbers are all based on a datum that is 60" fwd of the wing LE.
>
> Just curious. Am I sweating the "small stuff" here?
> Thanks
> Derrick L. Aubuchon
> n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: in-line fuel filters |
>practically invisible. I then changed to the plastic screen type with a
>glass body which can be viewed. Mine are upstream of the selector valve
>and electric pump. I have no gascolator. I drain each tank a bit before
Thanks Kevin for the input! This is exactly what some of the builders did
here (mostly promoted by Larry Vetterman of the exaust manufacturer).
Can you remenber where you bought yours? Would you do the same again?
By the way, how is your host/help list coming? You should have my data.
And be sure to stop by when you are in the Denver area.
Happy landings,
Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
Lakewood/ Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Numbers |
Derrick,
Unless you use Gary's method of weighing with and without a pilot, Tony
Bingelis Book (The Sportplane Builder - page 301) states that the CG
location for a seated person is his/her belly button. As this is a rule
of thumb, it looks like it would produce numbers much smaller or forward
than you would guess. But remember, when seated, the weigh of your legs and
feet are far forward of our trunk. Anyway, it gives you a place to start.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: Derrick L. Aubuchon <n184da(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2000 8:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Weight and Balance Numbers
>
> Greetings everyone,,
>
> I have a question for the group. I just took all of the distance
> measurements needed for my W&B calculations,, axle centerlines, tail
> wheel center (I have a RV-4), accessories, oil, seats, etc.
>
> My question is,, have most of you just used the numbers provided for
> the basic distances,, such as oil, pilot, passenger, baggage?
> The reason I ask is that I seem to have a disparity between what is
> provided as an example, versus what I have actually measured. For
> example,, the book suggests 40" aft of datum for the oil where my
> number is more like 32". The book 40" would place the CG of the oil
> near the accessory case. My number is (more or less) at the center of
> the oil sump.
> Both of the numbers for the pilot and passenger place the center of
> mass pretty much in the lap, forward of the belt,, and the way I look
> at it, they should be moved aft.
> Book numbers for the pilot and passenger are 82.5' and 107" aft of
> datum,, my numbers are 86 and 112 respectively.
> Now the book numbers for the fuel and baggage appear to be right on the
money.
>
> These numbers are all based on a datum that is 60" fwd of the wing LE.
>
> Just curious. Am I sweating the "small stuff" here?
> Thanks
> Derrick L. Aubuchon
> n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Starter engage light |
Now I've read Bob's reply to Frank and have my answer (I think). I just
checked out my starter and I have a Sky-Tec 122-12LS. In Frank's case I
guess the PM in his type means permanent magnet. What would LS stand
for?
I too have 2 big studs, L&R. The left one is where I attach my #2 wire.
It is jumpered to a small stud below it with a wire. The right stud is
jumpered with a strap to the motor case. What is going on here? I
haven't torn one apart to figure out the mechanics.
On the topic of idiot lights, what would the group recommend as the set
pressure to turn on a low oil press. light and a fuel low press. I have
an IO-360 with Airflow Perf. injector. My operators book lists a few
different nos. is why I ask. i.e.:
Oil press: Max -100, Min - 55, idle - 25 and from the Sky Ranch manual
if a rapid drop to below 30 then shutdown. So do I pick 55, 30 or
25psi?
Fuel press: inlet to pump 35 to -4
inlet to injector 45 to 14
I want to sense a poor performing eng. pump so that the elec. can be
turned on to back it up before the engine dies or a poor performing
engine can be better diagnosed. What is normal for the eng. pump? Will
10 psi work or will the engine poop out first?
I got the Hobb's catalog (thanks to previous listers) and the 5000
series switches can be field set to 8-13 or 14-24 or 25-50 or ....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: in-line fuel filters |
Morosso, car speciality prodicts company has filters that are about the size of
two D cell battries end to end with a # 6 fitting at both ends. A number of RV
builders have used these filters on each tank output prior to the selector.
Performance Aviation Fuel Injector company (see archives) also has filters.....
a bit pricey but nice items also.
lothark(at)worldnet.att.net on 01/31/2000 12:36:37 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: in-line fuel filters
>practically invisible. I then changed to the plastic screen type with a
>glass body which can be viewed. Mine are upstream of the selector valve
>and electric pump. I have no gascolator. I drain each tank a bit before
Thanks Kevin for the input! This is exactly what some of the builders did
here (mostly promoted by Larry Vetterman of the exaust manufacturer).
Can you remenber where you bought yours? Would you do the same again?
By the way, how is your host/help list coming? You should have my data.
And be sure to stop by when you are in the Denver area.
Happy landings,
Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
Lakewood/ Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Numbers |
You know the original weight moment are product. You know your new weight
and therefore the weight that you added. You will have a new moment arm
product. The sum of the old moment arm product plus the added weight times
its arm has to total the new moment arm total. It then becomes simple to
divide the weight into the difference of the two products which will be the
moment arm for the weight you added.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! and Old Math and Physics Teacher.
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Date: Monday, January 31, 2000 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight and Balance Numbers
>
>
>I agree that the actual station point(s) for items ( pilot, passenger,
>baggage,oil) need to be dead-nuts on & accurate as far as inches to the
>datum....I am at a loss to understand by weighing you can determine these
values
>(datum).....?? help
>
>
>cgalley(at)accessus.net on 01/29/2000 09:53:45 AM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight and Balance Numbers
>
>
>All the computations in the world will not replace an actual accurate
>weighing. If you want, you can weigh the plane will out oil, then reweigh
>with oil, then you can tell the real moment arm. Seat in the plane and
>re-weigh and you will know the moment arm for the pilot. You will have to
do
>some calculation, but from the changes, this will be simple arithmetic.
>
>You are not sweating the "small" stuff. You need to know the actual weight
>and balance before you fly and know it changes as you add passengers and
>baggage. Don't believe the numbers you se stamped as empty weight on the
>data plate. Some of these are and have been as phony as $3 bill.
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Derrick L. Aubuchon <n184da(at)pacbell.net>
>To: RV-List
>Date: Sunday, January 30, 2000 10:57 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Weight and Balance Numbers
>
>
>>
>>Greetings everyone,,
>>
>>I have a question for the group. I just took all of the distance
>>measurements needed for my W&B calculations,, axle centerlines, tail
>>wheel center (I have a RV-4), accessories, oil, seats, etc.
>>
>>My question is,, have most of you just used the numbers provided for
>>the basic distances,, such as oil, pilot, passenger, baggage?
>>The reason I ask is that I seem to have a disparity between what is
>>provided as an example, versus what I have actually measured. For
>>example,, the book suggests 40" aft of datum for the oil where my
>>number is more like 32". The book 40" would place the CG of the oil
>>near the accessory case. My number is (more or less) at the center of
>>the oil sump.
>>Both of the numbers for the pilot and passenger place the center of
>>mass pretty much in the lap, forward of the belt,, and the way I look
>>at it, they should be moved aft.
>>Book numbers for the pilot and passenger are 82.5' and 107" aft of
>>datum,, my numbers are 86 and 112 respectively.
>>Now the book numbers for the fuel and baggage appear to be right on the
>money.
>>
>>These numbers are all based on a datum that is 60" fwd of the wing LE.
>>
>>Just curious. Am I sweating the "small stuff" here?
>>Thanks
>>Derrick L. Aubuchon
>>n184da(at)pacbell.net
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Source for B&C alternator |
Does anyone know where or from whom I can buy a B&C alternator, model SD?
This is the little 8-10 amp guy that fits into the vacuum pump hole on the
back of a Lycoming that doesn't have a vacuum pump. Aircraft Spruce has it
in their catalog, but I would rather buy from someone else if I can.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A panel and engine controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | All Electric - IFR panel - gyro search |
Listers,
I'm trying to design an all electric ifr panel. I'm including an S-Tec
System 30 (Christmas present from my wife/copilot - even though I eventually
paid for it). With their optional GPSS system I can take heading info
off of my Garmin GPS to trak a course from the GPS.
Only problem so far is an electric DG with a heading bug for the AP,
in that I can't find one. This would provide the optimum redundancy
since I'm planning for a DG anyway - why not get one that fills multiple
roles.
One of the tech support guys at S-Tec faxed me a list of compatible
DG's. I cannot determine from that list the manufacturer of most of
them. The one that S-Tec sells is air operated. The SigmaTek folks only
make air operated ones according to the E-Mail response I got from
them.
Does anyone out there have any info on electric Gyros that may have
a heading channel similar to the S-Tec? The specs for the Autopilot
Pick-off as listed for their DG are:
"AC, Linear Transformer, 5kHz, 8Vac(pp) supplied by autopilot."
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
QB ordered while I work on EMP (HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime)!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:24:04 -0800 |
I have a question for you all. I'm putting my RV-4 fuselage together. In
several areas there are AN3 bolts and nylock (?) nuts used as fasteners.
For instance, the top longeron where it attaches to the engine mount
weldment, the center engine mount pads next to the rudder pedals, the
tailwheel. Are these nuts safetied in any way or are they fine just as is?
Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tire Mounting/Tire Balancing |
ALso, FWIW a brand new Michilen tire had a hi spot that rubbed thru my pant. A
second brand M tire was mounted, this time I spun it and also observed a very hi
spot. Another tire spun fine.......
bfiles(at)corecom.net on 01/28/2000 06:04:34 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tire Mounting
The red dot is the light spot on the tire. It should be lined up with the
yellow strip on the tube. If there is no yellow line on the tube then it
should be lined up with the valve stem.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
When mounting tires, does the red dot on the tire line up with the valve
stem or does it go opposite of the valve stem???
Bruce Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for B&C alternator |
I bought one from Bob Nuckolls along with a B&C L-40 without internal
regulator.
Jerry Carter
Wing tips
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2000 1:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Source for B&C alternator
>
> Does anyone know where or from whom I can buy a B&C alternator, model SD?
> This is the little 8-10 amp guy that fits into the vacuum pump hole on the
> back of a Lycoming that doesn't have a vacuum pump. Aircraft Spruce has
it
> in their catalog, but I would rather buy from someone else if I can.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A panel and engine controls
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Separator |
Plumed my oil return line into dip stick housing. The overboard vent (with
whistle cut-out) was positioned over a hot exhaust seqment at the cowl exit
area. This is what quite a few builders have done & seems to work very well. Buy
from Aircraft Spruce and go on with life......there are still more builder
opportunties in your future ...I know....
Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com on 01/28/2000 02:01:24 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Air-Oil Separator
I want to add an oil separator to my engine breather outlet. I am
considering the "Homebuilders Oil Breather/Separator" sold by Aircraft
Spruce (p. 233, 99/00 catalog). I would appreciate any comments on
how well this separator works.
Questions:
1. Where does the oil return line attach to the engine? I have a
carburated
O-320 D2J (160 hp) with Slick mags, no constant speed, no vacuum pump.
2. What is the diameter of the oil return line? (I may try to
fabricate my own separator.)
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 463 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lightspeed 20k headsets for $275 |
LightSPEED would like to extend a special "thank you" to the hundreds of
customers who participated in the 25XL Exchange Program. The program is
over and was a tremendous success. Most of the returned 20Ks were
refurbished and made available to CFIs, flight schools, and charitable
organizations. LightSPEED is now offering the remaining refurbished 20K
headsets for only $275, with a one-year parts and labor warranty. These
units are not sold through dealers and are on a first-come, first-serve
basis. Order a headset now at <http://www.avweb.com/sponsors/litspeed>.
Not sure if anyone on the list is interestd. But I was and I bought a pair.
Chris Wilcox
f-1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Malfunctioning contactor? |
>Thanks for the pictures Bob. Now that I have looked at them, what is a
>3 contact solenoid for?
It's a battery contactor only . . . I send out our CD contactors
already wired as a 3-terminal application . . . see:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/s701-1l.jpg
For crossfeed contactors, pump control contactors, etc. you
remove the jumper to use it as a 4-terminal device. The 3-terminal
device illustrated is suited only for battery master contactor
service.
>How do I wire an idiot light to tell me the starter is powered? Can I
>take a wire from the starter side of the contactor to the light and then
>ground or will that fry the light? Same question for a boost pump on
>light. I don't have a noisy Facet.
>
See my earlier post elsewhere on RV-list
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed 20k headsets for $275 |
SHHHHH... Your not supposed to tell everyone until we get ours!
ha ha ha! I sent in my order already...
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., waiting for wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of CW9371(at)aol.com
Sent: January 31, 2000 12:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed 20k headsets for $275
LightSPEED would like to extend a special "thank you" to the hundreds of
customers who participated in the 25XL Exchange Program. The program is
over and was a tremendous success. Most of the returned 20Ks were
refurbished and made available to CFIs, flight schools, and charitable
organizations. LightSPEED is now offering the remaining refurbished 20K
headsets for only $275, with a one-year parts and labor warranty. These
units are not sold through dealers and are on a first-come, first-serve
basis. Order a headset now at <http://www.avweb.com/sponsors/litspeed>.
Not sure if anyone on the list is interestd. But I was and I bought a pair.
Chris Wilcox
f-1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: breaker welding |
>
>I'll try to get ahold of him and ask. I can't remember if it happened when
>he turned the master on or started the engine.
>
>I'll try to find out. I'll also ask the A&P. He's still here.
>
>Greg
Thanks!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 2:46 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Re: breaker welding
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>>It came from an alternator circuit and a shorted battery. A friend of
>mine
>>>who was in the aircraft at the time reset the breaker twice when it failed
>>>'on' and then ate the alternator. Luckly he was on the skirt when it
>>>happened and just shut down and got towed back to the hanger.
>>
>> On further reflection, I'm thinking perhaps the alternator
>> was already bad . . . shorted diodes. The breaker popped
>> because of a very high backfeed fault into the alternator
>> while the battery was providing the energy necessary to
>> weld things.
>>
>> Appreciate your additional data on this phenomenon. I'm going
>> to include some discussion on it in Rev 9 of the book . . .
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> --------------------------------------------
>> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
>> ( time you try something, and it works. )
>> ( One fails forward toward success. )
>> ( C.F. Kettering )
>> --------------------------------------------
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>>
>>
>
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Numbers |
Actually, I haven't decided anything as of yet. That's why I posed
the question. I was curious as to why the numbers were so different.
My "guess" as to where the measurements should be are based solely
upon my "intuitive" look at where I feel they should be located.
Nothing scientific,, just my eyeballs at work here. When I look at
the seats, taking all of the factors you mentioned into account, it
still "appears" to me that the stations should be moved aft.
Naturally, I accept the fact that my "guess" is way off base and if
so, I have no problem using the published numbers.
I guess my original question was simply if the consensus was to use
the "book" numbers, or to use individual numbers. And as a follow
up,, how many people actually checked the given measurements,, like I
did. Sometimes I can get a little A.R. about things such as this.
The oil station is the one that has me really baffled. As I said in
my original post, my number is based upon a close "estimate" to the
center of the sump where as the book number is more in-line with the
accessory case. In actual practice however, I don't see this as a
problem as I will weigh the aircraft with a "normal" oil level of 7
qts, and go from there.
Given the responses so far to my original post, I think the best plan
would be to recalculate using actual weights of pilot & passenger
while on the scales.
Thanks for the input :)
>
>
>One might illuminate the importance of these issues by calculating
>the CG twice,
>once with each set of moment arms, and observe the total effect. As
>Gary and Cy
>suggest, accurate moment arms are best estimated empirically, rather than by
>measurement alone. For example, when you decided that the CG of the
>pilot should
>not be forward of the lap belt, did you account for leg weight and
>length? For
>the angle of the seat back? For shoe size and weight? For a flat
>vs. protruding
>belly? :
)
>
>Best wishes,
>
>Jack Abell
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: All Electric - IFR panel - gyro search |
Ralph,
Bite the bullet and put in an HSI. You will love it! If you consider the cost
differential with the instruments it replaces (electric DG - $1,200 and VOR/ILS
indicator - $1,200) it wouldn't be that much. Century makes an All electric
single box HSI (NDS-1000) that has a street price of between 5k and 6k. Deduct
out the $2,400 it replaces and your net cost is $2,500 to 3,500. And your STEC
30 will couple just fine.
Bruce
Glasair III builder
"Ralph E.Capen" wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm trying to design an all electric ifr panel. I'm including an S-Tec
> System 30 (Christmas present from my wife/copilot - even though I eventually
> paid for it). With their optional GPSS system I can take heading info
> off of my Garmin GPS to trak a course from the GPS.
>
> Only problem so far is an electric DG with a heading bug for the AP,
> in that I can't find one. This would provide the optimum redundancy
> since I'm planning for a DG anyway - why not get one that fills multiple
> roles.
>
> One of the tech support guys at S-Tec faxed me a list of compatible
> DG's. I cannot determine from that list the manufacturer of most of
> them. The one that S-Tec sells is air operated. The SigmaTek folks only
> make air operated ones according to the E-Mail response I got from
> them.
>
> Does anyone out there have any info on electric Gyros that may have
> a heading channel similar to the S-Tec? The specs for the Autopilot
> Pick-off as listed for their DG are:
> "AC, Linear Transformer, 5kHz, 8Vac(pp) supplied by autopilot."
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
> QB ordered while I work on EMP (HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime)!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: All Electric - IFR panel - gyro search |
In a message dated 1/31/2000 2:26:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com writes:
> Listers,
>
> I'm trying to design an all electric ifr panel. I'm including an S-Tec
> System 30 (Christmas present from my wife/copilot - even though I
eventually
> paid for it). With their optional GPSS system I can take heading info
> off of my Garmin GPS to trak a course from the GPS.
>
> Only problem so far is an electric DG with a heading bug for the AP,
> in that I can't find one. This would provide the optimum redundancy
> since I'm planning for a DG anyway - why not get one that fills multiple
> roles.
>
> One of the tech support guys at S-Tec faxed me a list of compatible
> DG's. I cannot determine from that list the manufacturer of most of
> them. The one that S-Tec sells is air operated. The SigmaTek folks only
> make air operated ones according to the E-Mail response I got from
> them.
>
> Does anyone out there have any info on electric Gyros that may have
> a heading channel similar to the S-Tec? The specs for the Autopilot
> Pick-off as listed for their DG are:
> "AC, Linear Transformer, 5kHz, 8Vac(pp) supplied by autopilot."
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
Hi Ralph,
I've been looking into the System 30 myself. The only DG I could locate that
meets your specs of electric with heading bug is the Century NSD-1000 HSI.
Not 'just' a DG, but the only one I could find that meets the specs. If
there's another alternative out there, I'd like to hear about it, too.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Numbers |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> I agree that the actual station point(s) for items ( pilot, passenger,
> baggage,oil) need to be dead-nuts on & accurate as far as inches to the
> datum....I am at a loss to understand by weighing you can determine these values
> (datum).....?? help
>
> cgalley(at)accessus.net on 01/29/2000 09:53:45 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Remember WAM: weight x arm = moment.
weight = moment/arm.
arm = moment/weight.
total moment/total weight = c.g. (arm)
weight moved/airplane weight = c.g. change (")/distance
between c.g.
arms (")
bcb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Garrett" <garrett(at)thesocket.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder |
Does anyone know when the new rudder design for the RV-6 started being
shipped? I'm referring to the new counterbalance design in the rudder that
fits into cutout of the vert stab.
Does anyone have an opinion as to which design is better, the old or the
new?
The reason I ask is that I ordered and received my tail kit in early August
'99 (just 6 months ago). I received the plans for the new tail and some of
the parts for the new design that hold the counterbalance. However I
received the old vert stab and rudder parts. I called Vans and they said
that they would be willing to ship me the old RV-6 vert stab and rudder
plans.
If the new vert stabs & rudders for the RV-6 were being shipped before my
August '99 order I want to know about it. Has anyone ordered the RV-6 tail
kit before me and received the new design? Please let me know.
Another note is that Vans said that when they make changes such as this it
is usually to improve on design. They said not so in this case. The reason
for the change was to reduce the number of parts. It seems that this
counter balance requires more parts and if it's not an improvement in
design, why add the lead weight to the tail?
I have already finished the Vert Stab and wondering if I should just stay
with the old design or start over with the new design if it's really that
much better.
Any comments appreciated.
Matt Garrett
Fresno, CA
RV-6 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Sacramento Sky Ranch |
Fellow Listers:
I would just like to recommend Sacramento Sky Ranch for any engine hoses
that you may need. I recently ordered some pretty high-tech noses from them
(Stratoflex Teflon with integral firesleeves and stainless steel fittings).
I goofed in my measurements and found that one of these was 3/4" too long.
I ordered another the correct length and returned the "bad" one not really
expecting much, if any, credit since the fittings are crimped and not
reusable. Just got a credit in the mail for the full amount. Great folks
and beautiful, FAA certified and tested hoses.
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: All Electric - IFR panel - gyro search |
BUT, when you send it out for repair you loose a DG & and a VOL/ILS ( and the
HSI)...all the functions you rolled into one display are lost when you send it
out for repair.........BUT then again HSI's are great. My cheap solution was to
go conventional DG & VOR/ILS & and GARMIN 295 with a LC HSI page...I get HSI
&
heading data (to go to my NAV-AID autopilot) for less that 1400.00$.....and all
the goodies the GPS has in it also....
brucegray(at)earthlink.net on 01/31/2000 03:41:23 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: All Electric - IFR panel - gyro search
Ralph,
Bite the bullet and put in an HSI. You will love it! If you consider the cost
differential with the instruments it replaces (electric DG - $1,200 and VOR/ILS
indicator - $1,200) it wouldn't be that much. Century makes an All electric
single box HSI (NDS-1000) that has a street price of between 5k and 6k. Deduct
out the $2,400 it replaces and your net cost is $2,500 to 3,500. And your STEC
30 will couple just fine.
Bruce
Glasair III builder
"Ralph E.Capen" wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm trying to design an all electric ifr panel. I'm including an S-Tec
> System 30 (Christmas present from my wife/copilot - even though I eventually
> paid for it). With their optional GPSS system I can take heading info
> off of my Garmin GPS to trak a course from the GPS.
>
> Only problem so far is an electric DG with a heading bug for the AP,
> in that I can't find one. This would provide the optimum redundancy
> since I'm planning for a DG anyway - why not get one that fills multiple
> roles.
>
> One of the tech support guys at S-Tec faxed me a list of compatible
> DG's. I cannot determine from that list the manufacturer of most of
> them. The one that S-Tec sells is air operated. The SigmaTek folks only
> make air operated ones according to the E-Mail response I got from
> them.
>
> Does anyone out there have any info on electric Gyros that may have
> a heading channel similar to the S-Tec? The specs for the Autopilot
> Pick-off as listed for their DG are:
> "AC, Linear Transformer, 5kHz, 8Vac(pp) supplied by autopilot."
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
> QB ordered while I work on EMP (HS and VS Rear Spars ready to Prime)!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:24:04 -0800 |
> I have a question for you all. I'm putting my RV-4 fuselage together. In
> several areas there are AN3 bolts and nylock (?) nuts used as fasteners.
> For instance, the top longeron where it attaches to the engine mount
> weldment, the center engine mount pads next to the rudder pedals, the
> tailwheel. Are these nuts safetied in any way or are they fine just as
is?
> Thanks!
>
I just torqued them to the recommended value for AN 3 bolts. I believe that
is all that Van's calls for.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for B&C alternator |
-From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-List: Source for B&C alternator
>Does anyone know where or from whom I can buy a B&C alternator, model SD?
>This is the little 8-10 amp guy that fits into the vacuum pump hole on the
>back of a Lycoming that doesn't have a vacuum pump. Aircraft Spruce has it
>in their catalog, but I would rather buy from someone else if I can.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>RV-6A panel and engine controls
Steve: Suggest you call B & C directly. Bill Bainbridge is a neat guy to
talk to.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV Grin |
I wish you guys and gals would quit rubbin it in. I still got a year to
go and can't hardly stand it when you come in with all the grins.
congratulations, Earl rv4
Kathy & Bill Peck wrote:
>
>
> Couldn't stand another day of Bill's grin.
>
> So, with 2 hours on the old tack-o-meter,
> N110KB and I consummated our relationship
> in .8 hour south of Pueblo airport in the practice
> area.
> After all, I did help build her, and I didn't want
> her to get too used to only Bill's touch in the air.
>
> We were compatible from the taxi all the way
> through the final flare. What an experience!
> Now Bill and I have matching RV grins, and a lot
> of thanks to everyone on the list for support.
> Kathy Peck
> N110KB FLYING!!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 01/30/00 |
Here is one for George Orndorff......Did you remove the three extra rivets
on each side at the rear of canopy frame???? I have your video and you
never say in it. Seems like if they are not removed the plexiglass is tied
down under he rear skirts. Less likely to allow movement during temp
changes etc....
What sa?
Larry, RV-6A finish stuff.....@3SY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 01/30/00 |
I sent in a question earlier and for some reason I specified George O....
Heck, is there anyone who has RV-6A advise on this one? ????????????????
Did you remove the three extra rivets on each side at the rear of canopy
frame???? I have your video and you never say in it. Seems like if they are
not removed the plexiglass is tied down under he rear skirts. Less likely
to allow movement during temp changes etc....
What sa?
Larry, RV-6A finish stuff.....@3SY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sacramento Sky Ranch |
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>I would just like to recommend Sacramento Sky Ranch for any engine hoses
>that you may need. I recently ordered some pretty high-tech noses from
>them
>(Stratoflex Teflon with integral firesleeves and stainless steel fittings).
>I goofed in my measurements and found that one of these was 3/4" too long.
>I ordered another the correct length and returned the "bad" one not really
>expecting much, if any, credit since the fittings are crimped and not
>reusable. Just got a credit in the mail for the full amount. Great folks
>and beautiful, FAA certified and tested hoses.
>
>Doug
>
>
>===========
>Doug Weiler
I'll second that. I've done business with John Schwaner a few times and he
was always patient, knowledgeable and willing to answer a ton of questions
about anything engine related. I just ordered some stuff from Skyranch
today and they immediately emailed me an invoice copy with shipping tracking
number. Great company.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for B&C alternator |
> Does anyone know where or from whom I can buy a B&C alternator, model SD?
> This is the little 8-10 amp guy that fits into the vacuum pump hole on the
> back of a Lycoming that doesn't have a vacuum pump. Aircraft Spruce has
it
> in their catalog, but I would rather buy from someone else if I can.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A panel and engine controls
Steve,
B&C will happily sell you direct. In fact they prefer it in a way because
they then know how to get ahold of you if they need to for any reason. Their
direct pricing is the same as through the Spruce catalog.
Contact the at (316) 283-8000, or at bcspec(at)southwind.net
I have the whole B starter, alternator, alternator control
module and am a fan of their technology and quality.
Regards,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel & canopy skirt
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Does anyone know when the new rudder design for the RV-6 started being
>shipped? I'm referring to the new counterbalance design in the rudder that
>fits into cutout of the vert stab.
>
>
>Another note is that Vans said that when they make changes such as this it
>is usually to improve on design. They said not so in this case. The reason
>for the change was to reduce the number of parts. It seems that this
>counter balance requires more parts and if it's not an improvement in
>design, why add the lead weight to the tail?
>
>I have already finished the Vert Stab and wondering if I should just stay
>with the old design or start over with the new design if it's really that
>much better.
>
>Any comments appreciated.
>
Matt,
My understanding of this, which is not authoratative, is that because of
the higher speed potential of the RV-8 Van's decided to go to the
balanced rudder design. By changing to these same parts for the six that
does make fewer total parts for Van's, not necessarily the individual
builder.
The builder gets the superior design for nothing if they use the balanced
rudder, if the builder does not have the balanced rudder they have a
design that is well proven on their airframe. No problem, either way.
Everyone wins?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance Numbers |
Just a quick comment on this thread. Measuring your own references on the
actual aircraft when leveled is good. Just remember that the real reference
for all measurements should be the leading edge of the wing. All C.G.
limits are referenced as % of MAC, then converted to inches. Dynamically
the MAC is what matters. So check your datum to the wing LE.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com |
| Subject: | ELT antenna location |
Tom (and listers),
FWIW, I have seen a number of wreckages where the impact was hard enough to
break the gear off and injure but not kill the occupants.....point being, IMHO
I
think the bottom of the fuselage is the very worst place you could possibly
mount an ELT antenna. Odds are in most cases an antenna mounted on the bottom
of the fuse will be either crushed, ripped off, or buried in the dirt by the
time the aircraft comes to rest. The tail cone or vertical fin are better
locations, even if you flip over.
Case in point, a few years ago three friends of mine flying in a Cherokee in
Colorado got caught in a mountain wave and were slammed into the side of the
mountain. The plane was torn to shreds except part of the tail and cabin, and
because it was concealed by trees at high elevation, they would have never been
found if it hadn't been for the ELT. In this case, all three of them survived
because the ELT enabled them to be rescued and get emergency medical attention
within 24 hours.
ELT's aren't just a dumb FAA requirement, they could save your life....but not
if the antenna is buried in the dirt 100 feet behind the wreckage. If you have
to lug one around, you might as well design the installation to be as
crashworthy as possible. No insults intended here, just some (hopefully
helpful) advice...
--Mark Navratil, A&P
RV-8A left wing in the jig
Cedar Rapids, IA
From: "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT mount
Jeff,
I made the floor of the baggage compartment come out (6 nut plates). Of
course, I have to remember to carry the proper screw driver to be able to
remove the floor. Then I mounted the ELT under the floor. The ant. comes
out through the floor of the fuselage too. Theory, if I land upright I
shouldn't need the ELT, however, if I turn upside down, the ELT ant. will be
pointed up. If the crash is bad enought that I don't survive, I don't care
which way the ant. is pointed.
Tom Gummo
90% done with 90% to go
----- Original Message -----
From: J. Farrar <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 4:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: ELT mount
>
> Need some opinions. I am looking for a mounting location for an ACK EL-01
> elt, the one that is portable and uses d-cell batteries. It needs to be
> accessible for portable use. The only place I can see to mount it is in
the
> rear baggage compartment in my -8A. On the hat shelf with a .025 doubler
> for added stiffness. Does anyone see a problem with this. Is the hat
shelf
> sufficiently stiff for this use? I don't want it tearing out in a crash.
> Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
> Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
Lister's,
I am in the process of installing the ELT in my 8A. I am planning in
installing the empenage fairing. If I was to install vetically in the VS,
would this work, in that would the ELT be able operate properly with the
antenna enclosed in the VS.
Mark Steffensen
Dallas 8A 90% done 90% to go....
>
>
> Tom (and listers),
>
> FWIW, I have seen a number of wreckages where the impact was hard enough
to
> break the gear off and injure but not kill the occupants.....point being,
IMHO I
> think the bottom of the fuselage is the very worst place you could
possibly
> mount an ELT antenna. Odds are in most cases an antenna mounted on the
bottom
> of the fuse will be either crushed, ripped off, or buried in the dirt by
the
> time the aircraft comes to rest. The tail cone or vertical fin are better
> locations, even if you flip over.
>
> Case in point, a few years ago three friends of mine flying in a Cherokee
in
> Colorado got caught in a mountain wave and were slammed into the side of
the
> mountain. The plane was torn to shreds except part of the tail and cabin,
and
> because it was concealed by trees at high elevation, they would have never
been
> found if it hadn't been for the ELT. In this case, all three of them
survived
> because the ELT enabled them to be rescued and get emergency medical
attention
> within 24 hours.
>
> ELT's aren't just a dumb FAA requirement, they could save your life....but
not
> if the antenna is buried in the dirt 100 feet behind the wreckage. If you
have
> to lug one around, you might as well design the installation to be as
> crashworthy as possible. No insults intended here, just some (hopefully
> helpful) advice...
>
> --Mark Navratil, A&P
> RV-8A left wing in the jig
> Cedar Rapids, IA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland Wheels |
Magnesium requires hot pickling to treat.
-----Original Message-----
From: Louis Cappucci <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Monday, January 31, 2000 10:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Cleveland Wheels
>
>
>bruce,
>
>i don't know what the "standard" ones are, but the ones that vans supplies
>with the finish kits are, i believe, made of an aluminum and magnesium
alloy
>which does not require corrosion protection. (i assume that is why you want
>to paint them, because the wheel pants will cover them up.) in fact, i have
>been told that magnesium should NOT be etched (not sure why, maybe someone
>can explain). so i don't think this is a case where you want to go for the
>belt and suspenders treatment.
>
>i am no expert, and i hope the information i am passing on is correct. but
>before you do any etching, check with someone who knows better.
>
>louis cappucci
>rv-6a finish kit
>mamaroneck, ny
>
>>
>>Are "standard" Cleveland wheels made of magnesium or aluminum. In the
>>ACS catalog, they list conversion kits as magnesium for general use and
>>aluminum for "Ag" use.
>>
>>If they are magnesium, do they need to be etched and alodined before
>>paining?
>>
>>Bruce Green
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Air/Oil Separator |
If looking for an air/oil separator suggest you go to www.m-20turbos.com.
I ordered one for a Hawk XP and it seems to work real well. I also got one
for my RV6 but that's a year away. It's pretty neat and compact. $159.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
-
>
>Lister's,
>
>I am in the process of installing the ELT in my 8A. I am planning in
>installing the empenage fairing. If I was to install vetically in the VS,
>would this work, in that would the ELT be able operate properly with the
>antenna enclosed in the VS.
>
No, the aluminum would be an efficient RF shield.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | ELT antenna location |
If the fiberglass bottom on the rudder were installed with nutplates, would the
ELT antenna function properly installed in that location?
Vince
RV-8A Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue [SMTP:n5lp(at)carlsbad.net]
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna location
-
>
>Lister's,
>
>I am in the process of installing the ELT in my 8A. I am planning in
>installing the empenage fairing. If I was to install vetically in the VS,
>would this work, in that would the ELT be able operate properly with the
>antenna enclosed in the VS.
>
No, the aluminum would be an efficient RF shield.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Sacramento Sky Ranch |
I would just like to recommend Sacramento Sky Ranch
I would also recommend Sac Sky Ranch. I used them when I worked in
California and they are great people.
A lot of other stuff too besides hoses.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Source for B&C Alternators |
Bill Bainbridge
B & C Specialty Products, Inc.
123 E. 4th Street
Newton, Kansas 67114
(316) 283-8662
And there you have it.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Rocket wingtips/Hot Tips & Lighting kit |
Hi:
Has anyone installed the lighting kit in their Harmon Rocket type wingtips?
I got the lighting kit from the Tracy Saylor (no instructions included) &
Tracy recommended the Whelen landing lights. They looked good until I called
Whelen & found out that their model 90195 is $333 (each). Ouch!
Wicks will give a discount on these items if you special order but it's
still going to be $500 for the pair excluding the bulbs themselves.
Does anyone have a better idea? Is there another product that will fit?
Many thanks,
Phil
RV8 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Check out Sam Buchanan's website:
>
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/
>
> He put it under the intersection fairing for the vertical stab and horizontal
> stab. That way, it's under fiberglass, which is transparent to the radio
> waves. Also, it's on the top of the airplane, and not in the airstream.
> Seems like a good compromise.
And here is the page where you can see the installation:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel.html
Thanks, Kyle,
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PSHIREMAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 01/31/00 |
I recently subscribed to the RV-6 digest list. I receive a message each day
but no information. It always says total messages posted ,day,date:0. In the
body of the message there is a notation "Digest Mode Message Key". What do I
do to get information?
Thanks
PSHIREMAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
The ELT,according to the install instuctions from Ameri King say the ELT
itself should be installed on a longeron, floor rib, etc. somewhere that will
allow it to withstand certain impact requiements listed in their book. It
also should be placed as far aft as practicle to get to for servicing. As far
as the antennae goes, it should be on top of the aircraft. It is unikely that
we will crash (god forbid) upside down. So placing this little, skinny
antenae inside something or under something does not seem like a good idea.
The idea is for people to find you and if you hide your antennae or put it in
some place where it may get damaged and not transmit defeats the purpose of
it. Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved) almost finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HAROLD1339(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air/Oil Separator |
I own a Cessna Hawk XP with the 210 HP engine. It seems to be slobbery and
messes up the belly with blow-by oil. Did the air-oil separator do the job
for you? Was it hard to linstall. Any info about this would be appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder |
> Another note is that Vans said that when they make changes such as this it
> is usually to improve on design. They said not so in this case. The reason
> for the change was to reduce the number of parts. It seems that this
> counter balance requires more parts and if it's not an improvement in
> design, why add the lead weight to the tail?
>
I'm not sure who you talked to, but the person I talked to (of course I forget
who) said that, while they switched mainly due to parts commonality, they said
the -6 did fly better with the new rudder. Got mine in sept 99, and it had all
parts for the new rudder and VS. I've only flown the old tail -6, so I have no
basis for comparison. Anybody flown both?
Jeff Point
jpoint(at)execpc.com
-6 emp. fiberglass (yuck) tips, waiting for wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder |
Matt,
You wrote
>>Does anyone know when the new rudder design for the RV-6 started being
shipped? I'm referring to the new counterbalance design in the rudder that
fits into cutout of the vert stab.<<
In the fourth issue of 1999 RVator, Ken Scott wrote that from August (no
precise time) RV-6/6A empennage kits were being shipped with the RV-8/8A
vertical stabilizer and rudder.
>>The reason I ask is that I ordered and received my tail kit in early
August '99 (just 6 months ago). I received the plans for the new tail and
some of the parts for the new design that hold the counterbalance. However
I received the old vert stab and rudder parts. I called Vans and they said
that they would be willing to ship me the old RV-6 vert stab and rudder
plans.<<
Sounds like the time of your order bridged the change over between the two
vertical surfaces, so it looks like you have the luxury of choosing between
the two.
>>Another note is that Vans said that when they make changes such as this
it is usually to improve on design. They said not so in this case. The
reason for the change was to reduce the number of parts. It seems that this
counter balance requires more parts and if it's not an improvement in
design, why add the lead weight to the tail?<<
When Van's said the change was to reduce the number of parts, I think they
meant fewer different parts for them to manufacture and stock (helps to
keep the kit price down for us builders), not fewer parts for us to
assemble.
I'm not too keen on anything that places another lead weight so far back,
plus I had thought that the bigger -8 vertical surfaces on the -6 would
look out of proportion, then I realised I had been flying around in Van's
-6A demonstrator "ole blue" which has been so modified and I hadn't noticed
the difference visually. Actually, I quite like the new look.
>>I have already finished the Vert Stab and wondering if I should just stay
with the old design or start over with the new design if it's really that
much better.<<
Personally, as you've already done the Vert Stab, I'd stick with the old
design. Van's said the higher aspect ratio and increased vertical area of
the new tail improved yaw stability, especially in turbulence, but had very
little effect to spin recovery.
Best wishes,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB 60435 (that will get a new style fin and rudder)
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Split switches |
>> Here's a simple one for ya. I have been looking for listings on the split
>> Main Power switch (battery/altenator). I find it listed in Aircraft
>Spruce and Wicks catalog, says Cessna type. Bob's webb site doesn't list
any. Is
>> that what you guys have been using, or is there a better one, or way, and
>> available where?
The whole concept behind the "split rocker switch" for DC power
master was created at Cessna about 1965 when the switch from
generators to alternators was in full swing. Generators would
run self-excited and did not need a battery on line to be a useful
source of power. The battery master and generator switches
could be separate, unrelated controls.
Not so the alternator. Alternators would not come on line by
themselves nor were they particularly stable without a battery.
We needed a way to insure that the alternator would never be
on by itself but still allow the battery to be on by itself.
The style of switches used in Cessnas and most other singles
was evolving to rockers so the interlocked split rocker switch was
born. Over the decades, that switch has been endowed with some
sort of mystical properties. I've seen hundreds of airplanes
with every other kind of control switch where the red split
rocker holds court from a prominant place on the panel looking
like no other switch in the airplane.
I personally object to rocker switches because they need a
rectangular hole, they're style critical with respect to the
original manufacturer (you can only replace the thing with
exactly the same brand) and much more labor intensive to install.
Further, in decades since the split rocker was birthed, RG
battery performance for cranking engines has totally
overshadowed an earlier requirement for relieving as much
load on the battery as possible during cranking.
Hence, our present recommendations for battery and alternator
control is to use the simpler, less expensive and more widely
manufactured 2-pole rocker switch to bring battery and
alternator OFF and ON together. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/z8_0299.pdf
All of our power distribution concepts use crowbar ov
protection which suggests use of a breaker rather than
fuse for field supply. If this is a pullable breaker,
then the very rare cases where an alternator needs to
be off line while only the battery is on can be accomodated
by pulling the breaker. That's why we don't offer
this device from our website catalog.
For those interested in independent yet interlocked
toggle switch control of the alternator could consider
a switch like our S700-2-10 that can be wired so that
down is both OFF, mid position is battery only ON, and
upper position is both ON.
In any case, I cannot recommend the split rocker found
in almost everybody's electrical parts catalog unless
you're planning to use the same brand and style of
rocker switch for all other applications and you'd like
your panel to take on the look of a 1965 Cessna . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy Mounting |
Fellow Listers:
I would just like to recommend Sacramento Sky Ranch for any engine hoses
that you may need. I recently ordered some pretty high-tech noses from them
(Stratoflex Teflon with integral firesleeves and stainless steel fittings).
I goofed in my measurements and found that one of these was 3/4" too long.
I ordered another the correct length and returned the "bad" one not really
expecting much, if any, credit since the fittings are crimped and not
reusable. Just got a credit in the mail for the full amount. Great folks
and beautiful, FAA certified and tested hoses.
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
Doug,
I second the motion! I too bought the very same hoses from them and
your
are right, they are very nice people and very helpful. The hoses are not cheap,
but I
now have certified pressure tested hoses to go along with my certified, cell tested,
certified engine. One less thing to worry about.
Joe
RV-8 # 80125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Source for B&C alternator |
>
>I didn't see it on his web site. I'll look again.
Haven't had time to get all the pictures up and edit
the html files but we handle any and all B&C products.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Zenith-List: Aircraft wiring... got a cheap source! |
I thought some people on this list may be interested
by this...
> During the holiday season, I went shopping at
> MasterVox, a local electronic components surplus
> store.
> While being there and having a conversation with the
> owner (Denis Masse), I discovered that he had a lot
> of
> aircraft wires that he is selling at normal wire
> prices...
>
> After purchasing various sizes of MS22759 cables,
> and
> some 5-conductor, 22 awg cable for my electric
> aileron
> trim, I thought about sharing this with you.
>
> I want to mention that I have no interest in the
> store
> and I don't know the owner personally (I met him
> once
> for making my purchase), but he appears to be very
> friendly. I don't want to take any responsibility
> in
> any transaction that you may initiate.
>
> Go to
>
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby/ch601/aircraftwire.htm
> for more details.
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby/ch601/aircraftwire.htm
====
Michel Therrien
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby/ch601
-- updated on Jan. 8, 2000
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
When our new shopping cart software goes on line,
we'll feature many of B&C's fine products for
aircraft. In the mean time, you may download
B&C's price list through our present website
catalog at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | ELT antenna location |
How about making some small brackets that will allow you to mount and the
antenna to the roll bar, and route it around the arc of the bar? It could
be mounted in such a way that it is forward of the bar so it would be
somewhat out of site while flying, but would most likely survive a crash...
Maybe? Maybe no?
-Bill Von Dane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Sent: February 01, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna location
I would think transmissions would be shielded or blocked in most all
directions.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Source for shielded wire |
Can someone recommend a source for two- and three-wire shielded cable. I
hear that is what I need for wiring my headset and microphone jacks.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | jettisonable canopies and rollbars |
As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary RV3
pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff putting
him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a sliding
canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted the
airplane. He was so humbled by the experience that he
redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable, installed a
BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield again. With
500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say that if
anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up, I am
jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
locking pin, you simply reach over your left shoulder,
pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the canopy. In
normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply pull
the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and slide the
pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a tear
away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel with
aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I need
to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when it's
shut, it won't blow open.
I've mentioned this before but this seems like a good time to revisit it. I
also have personally rescued someone from a flipped RV. An engine failure
forced an RV-4 down in a muddy wheat field. The roll bar kept the pilot
from breaking his neck or suffocating. I believe jettisoning the canopy
would have helped but the pilot still likely would be trapped....depends on
the severity of the crash and soil conditions...this particular RV sank in
the soft soil about 4". Nonetheless the rollbar worked! IMHO, if you
modify, or delete the rollbar (like the Rocket guys) you are making a
possibly fatal mistake. You Rocket builders need to reread that again. My
Rocket absolutely will have a rollbar.
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
I sent an e-mail to Garmin regarding this GPS receiver, and here is the
response I got from the sales department:
Thank you for contacting GARMIN.
The eMap cannot have the Jeppesen database added to it. You must have an
aviation unit to get the Jeppesen database.
Best Regards,
Tamara Dorst
sales(at)garmin.com
BUT... I bet it would work, everything I have read says both the eMap and
GPS 195 can be updated by any of the MapSource CD-ROMs , so I would think
the aviation database would work too... maybe someone would like to call
their tech support dept and get some straight answers...
-Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
I placed mine under the tail fairing. Pictures I've seen of crashed
airplanes out in the boonies often show them with the tail sticking up in
the air and the rest of it a crumpled mess. So, I think the odds of the
antenna being able to transmit a signal is pretty good. (As long as the RG
antenna cable survives intact.) I've checked mine out and it works fine,
but I seriously hope I NEVER have to rely on it!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
RClayp5888(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> The ELT,according to the install instuctions from Ameri King say the ELT
> itself should be installed on a longeron, floor rib, etc. somewhere that will
> allow it to withstand certain impact requiements listed in their book. It
> also should be placed as far aft as practicle to get to for servicing. As far
> as the antennae goes, it should be on top of the aircraft. It is unikely that
> we will crash (god forbid) upside down. So placing this little, skinny
> antenae inside something or under something does not seem like a good idea.
> The idea is for people to find you and if you hide your antennae or put it in
> some place where it may get damaged and not transmit defeats the purpose of
> it. Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved) almost finished.
Which part of the airplane is almost never damaged as a result of a
nasty crash?
The tail.
If we want to get really picky......the ELT antenna is vertically
polarized (EE's, please excuse my layman's explanation). The area of
weakest transmission is off the tip of the antenna, just where a passing
satellite might try to "see" it. Some would argue that having the
antenna in a less than vertical position might increase the coverage of
the transmission.
I agree that guessing where the antenna is going to be pointed following
a crash is a "pointless" argument. My point is that we probably
shouldn't get too torqued about the pros and cons of ELT antenna
locations. The thing probably isn't going to work properly anyway, and
if the plane really gets torn up, we may not see the rescuers arriving
at the crash site.....
Sam Buchanan (feeling particularly fatalistic this morning....)
"The RV Journal" http//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mbl10255(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
Hopefully, the ELT you are using has some arrangement, like a BNC connector
for the antenna coax. You can mount the antenna where it is easily
accessable and then run the coax to a mounting location near the tail.
Mark Lewis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sacramento Sky Ranch/BOOK |
John Schemmer has published a book on aircraft engine and accessories called
the Sacramento Skyranch Engineering Manual. In its fourth or fifth printing.
Highly recommended reading...........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator fuse location |
>I know you extroll the virtues of getting the main fuse/breaker off the
>panel to reduce noise in the system. I guess I don't understand how merely
>moving its location will do this.
>Looking at your wiring diagram the alternator output is connected to the hot
>side of the starter contactor and then through the master contactor. The
>feed then goes to the battery. Great except the main fuse block feed is
>connected at the same battery terminal. Isn't this the same electrically as
>running the feed to the main fuse block and then connecting to the battery?
Noises generated by the alternator are in form of an
AC ripple voltage that remains on the output after
power passes through the rectifier diode array. This
is a signeal with a voltage value of approx 700 mv peak to
peak but and a current capability equal to 5% of
the alternator's present load. . . 40A DC output
is accompanied by 2A of pk-pk ripple noise. This is
why ground-loop noise goes UP as loads on the alternator
are increased.
The best filter in the airplane is the battery. Especially
if it's an RG battery with a very low internal impedance
(on the order of 8 milliohms). The 2A pk-pk ripple
current impressed across 8 milliohms is only 16
pk-pk. Obviously, connecting the alternator directly
to the battery terminals is the way to go . . . indeed
that's what I show in the Electric Panel on a Budget
article on our website.
Any intervening wires between the battery and the
alternator increases the apparent impedance of the
battery and reduces its effectiveness as a filter.
So, the goal is to make the shortest possible, fatwire
connections between battery and alternator b-terminal
without taking it past the main bus!
The goal is to reduce the amount of wire shared by
both the alternator and mainbus feedline and to make
the connections between battery and alternator as
short and low a resistance as practical. Remember,
we're talking millohms here and every wire and joint
in the wire adds its little bit of ripple-noise amplifying
resistance.
The single point ground system we recommend is used to
get as much of the airframe's resistance out of crictical
systems power pathways. Moving the alternator b-lead
to the starter contactor on the firewall is doing the
same things for the hot side of the power system as
we do for the ground side.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder |
Listers,
Jeff Point wrote:
>>... while they switched mainly due to parts commonality, they said the -6
did fly better with the new rudder. Got mine in sept 99, and it had all
parts for the new rudder and VS. I've only flown the old tail -6, so I
have no basis for comparison. Anybody flown both?<<
I flew in "Ole blue", Van's demonstrator -6A with the RV-8 vert stab and
rudder with Ken Scott and noticed no difference, but then again I wasn't
looking. Plus it was in smooth evening air, and Van's say the difference in
improved yaw stability is most noticable in turbulence.
Another thing to consider- I don't know if there's the potential for a
problem, but I wonder how well the f-694 empennage fairing will fit an RV-8
fin that's attatched to an RV-6 rear fuselage/horizontal stabiliser?
Is the misfit going to be even worse?!
Maybe RV-6 builders with this new combination would be better off getting
an RV-8 emp-fairing (or is it exactly the same?). It would be nice if
someone can try this (if only Scott McDaniels was still on the list.....)
And I thought when I picked a -6, I'd get the benefit of following in the
footsteps of others who had solved problems a 1000 times over before me!
Bye,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6QB 60435
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
I heard once that no lives have yet been saved by an ELT tho bodies and
wreckage have been located.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for shielded wire |
> Can someone recommend a source for two- and three-wire shielded cable. I
> hear that is what I need for wiring my headset and microphone jacks.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
I just bought some from Pacific Coast Avionics along with the rest of my
avionics and instruments. I have also seen it in the Spruce catalog however.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, panel, canopy skirt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | S-Tec ST-180 HSI Specs |
Listers,
In my quest for all electric (thanx Bob), I'm getting a few things
narrowed down in my research.
Here's the next phase...Is anyone using (or knows anyone that has)
the S-Tec ST-180 HSI? I'm trying to determine space/weight requirements.
The S-Tec folks tell me that this info is only available in the install
manuals - $30 please. Gimme a break! All I need is l * w * h * d
and weight for the components to determine sizing. This fits in to
the panel planning deal also.
I've already got the same info on the Century NSD1000 HSI which is
documented to fit all my needs anyway. Plus the website had downloads...
Any info would help - offline is probably more appropriate for this.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
Waiting for warm weather to prime!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Freeman <notsofreeman(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: 01/28/00 |
Please take me off your e-mail list.
Thanks
Randy (6th request)
--- RV4-List Digest Server
wrote:
> *
>
>
> RV4-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri
> 01/28/00: 2
>
>
>
>
>
> From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> Rion;'
>
>
> I'll try to take a photo for you. First, several
> egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
> presented in the RV4. I have been flying the F-16
> for
> 12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the -4
> except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the rear
> and
> is electrically raised and lowered. It is
> explosively
> jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
> automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
> recommends ejection over "riding out" an off runway
> excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main gear
> failure and flipped over, trapping him for three
> hours
> until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the
> THREE
> inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and free
> him. A fire would have made a different ending to
> the
> story.
> As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary RV3
> pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff putting
> him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a sliding
> canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted the
> airplane. He was so humbled by the experience that
> he
> redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable, installed
> a
> BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield again.
> With
> 500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say that if
> anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
> otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up, I
> am
> jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
> locking pin, you simply reach over your left
> shoulder,
> pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the canopy.
> In
> normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply pull
> the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and slide
> the
> pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a tear
> away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel with
> aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I need
> to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when
> it's
> shut, it won't blow open.
>
> Rob
>
> --- RION BOURGEOIS wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION BOURGEOIS"
> >
> >
> > Sounds neat and simple. However, if the pin
> slides
> > backwards over the
> > canopy bulkhead, how do rescuers open the canopy
> to
> > get you out? Got
> > pictures? Rion
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> >
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi J;
> > >
> > > I used a pin from the nautilus weight room
> that
> > > holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a hole
> > in my
> > > roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a point
> on
> > the
> > > entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches
> > "above
> > > the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic
> bushings
> > in
> > > the hole in the roll bar just like the ones for
> > the
> > > rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could put
> a
> > > small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the
> end.
> > Now
> > > I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy
> > bulkhead
> > > on the ground and pull it back when I shut the
> > canopy.
> > > It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The cool
> > part
> > > is when the canopy is down, the pin slides
> > backwards
> > > OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing opening
> if
> > the
> > > canopy lock should fail. See ya.
> > >
> > > Rob Ray
> > > smokyray(at)yahoo.com
> > > --- "J. Rion Bourgeois"
> > wrote:
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion
> > Bourgeois"
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy
> > latch
> > > > mechanism. I would like
> > > > to use the standard latch mechanism in the
> > plans,
> > > > but it does not provide
> > > > for a partially open position for ground
> > operations.
> > > > I have heard a rumor
> > > > about a builder in the Seattle area who has
> > designed
> > > > a safety latch that
> > > > allows use of the standard canopy latch and
> has
> > a
> > > > partially open position.
> > > > Does anyone have his address and phone number
> or
> > any
> > > > suggested solutions?
> > > > Thanx, Rion
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > through
> > > >
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > > >
> > > > Matronics!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo!
> Messenger.
> > > http://im.yahoo.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=== message truncated ==
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
> As far
>as the antennae goes, it should be on top of the aircraft. It is unikely
that
>we will crash (god forbid) upside down. So placing this little, skinny
>antenae inside something or under something does not seem like a good idea.
>The idea is for people to find you and if you hide your antennae or put it
in
>some place where it may get damaged and not transmit defeats the purpose of
>it. Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved) almost finished.
I gave this subject a lot of thought when building my six (tip up). I
finally decided to put the antenna in the baggage compartment and
fabricated a bracket to locate the antenna where it had a "clear view". I
figured that the antenna would be protected and, even though not a great
location from an electrical point of view, that it would stay intact and
function. I don't feel that either top or bottom location are a good
choice. In an off-airport landing situation, I felt that the RV with it's
small tires would be more prone to flip over. That is certainly the case
out here where I live. Some of this country is rugged enough to flip a Cub
with tundra tires! I used to fly my six over to Gillette from here quite a
bit and traveled a straight line. I got to looking at the terrain below
and then decided to follow the curvy Interstate, instead.
As other posters have pointed out, ELT's don't have the best track
record. In fact, I probably wouldn't put one in an airplane if it wasn't
required. I think the odds of being found and rescued are increased by:
filing a flight plan, using flight following and/or telling friends &
family your travel plans. Also, the kind of terrain one is flying over
should be considered. When we lived in central Nebraska, I never worried
too much about off airport landings. There were hay fields everywhere and
a high population density. But, one badger hole in that hay field could be
the difference between a successful or not so successful landing.
BTW, my six that I sold, flipped over in a wheat field in Kansas. The
antenna was fine and the roll bar worked. Thank goodness the pilot was OK.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "InfoAv Corp - Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder |
--> RV-List message really posted by: Jeremy Benedict
> parts for the new rudder and VS. I've only flown the old tail -6, so I
> have no basis for comparison. Anybody flown both?<<
Yes. Unless you flew both AND were told the difference AND you flew in
turbulence, you would likely not know the difference.
> Another thing to consider- I don't know if there's the potential for a
> problem, but I wonder how well the f-694 empennage fairing will fit an
RV-8
> fin that's attatched to an RV-6 rear fuselage/horizontal stabiliser?
> Is the misfit going to be even worse?!
The bottom is the same for both the original and current vstabs. Both use
VS-404/5. No difference in that part of the vstab, so no change in the
fairing fit.
> And I thought when I picked a -6, I'd get the benefit of following in the
> footsteps of others who had solved problems a 1000 times over before me!
You still will...about 1000 people have built the new vstab and rudder (only
they were using it for the RV-8/8A). :-)
The change was made primarily for parts commonality, keeping the selling
price of the empennage kit as low as possible. Everything is a trade-off:
the new tail will result in increased yaw stability, but will take some
speed in exchange (likely only 0.x mph). Both performance changes will be
minimal and likely imperceptible to most pilots.
Van's will produce, as needed, replacement parts for the original RV-6/6A
vstab and rudder.
Bottom line...build the empennage with the parts you are holding in your
hands. :-)
Have a great day,
Jeremy Benedict jeremy(at)infoav.com
Speaking for myself and no one else (neither human nor corporate entity).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Maj Gary" <gary.fesenbek(at)mcguire.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: The fuel primer system that almost was. |
> I like you had it on good advice reasons against putting a primer in the
> airplane. Like you I had flown other Cessnas that I hardly ever needed to
> prime. These were flying club aircraft though and were probably started
> within the last 24 hours by other folks. My airplane was inspected and
> flying but I did have problems starting her on mornings when the temp was
> below 40. As was mentioned on the list, it is very easy to flood the
> engine trying to start just using the accelerator pump. Another thing
> that wasn't mentioned is that is is pretty hard on the starter if you
> don't get it the first time. After ten hours of flight time I ordered the
> pieces for the primer system and will soon install it on my airplane. I
> think it is true that you can start without a primer but your preheating
> requirements are more stringent. Also it takes a lot of technique to do
> it right and you can flood the engine very easily. I finally decided to
> put it on imagining that I was cross country somewhere unable to start and
> out of luck with a run down battery.
>
> In the end each builder must decide on their own what to do. I just
> wanted to give another opinioin.
>
> Gary Fesenbek
> RV6A
> Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Close, W. James" <jclose(at)mtl.marconi.ca> |
I am finally ready to paint my RV6 (after 11 years of construction - a
record in itself) and would like info. on a good paint. I have been told to
avoid automotive paints or Imron since it won't tolerate the flexing of the
aluminum. Is this true? Does anyone have any personal experience with
Air-Tech paints? Other recommendation?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | ELT Antenna location |
Listers,
My ELT is mounted behind the passenger seat on the baggage compartment
floor, with the antenna mounted on the floor next to it. My fire
extinguisher is also in the same area. The antenna is attached and insulated
from the seat-back bulkhead so that it doesn't whip around the baggage
compartment. I found this was a good place to put it for a couple of
reasons:
1. Proximity to pilot. If the airplane ever went in, it would be easy to
remove and carry with me if I was still alive and had to hike (or crawl)
some distance.
2. Serviceability. Can't get any easier.
3. No antenna in the breeze.
4. No long length of coax that would add a pound or two.
5. Took about 15 minutes to mount it there.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Survivors Was: ELT antenna location |
Sam,
I actually agree with everything you've said here. I always thought that if
I was in a crash bad enough to activate the ELT I probably wouldn't need it
anyway.
However, in the category of "those amazing RV's:" Before I had ever even
heard of an RV-4 or -6 a friend of mine told me about two friends of his
that had been involved in an accident and had in fact been located by the
ELT signal. The two friends were located on the side of a heavily wooded
mountain in either Montana or Idaho, I can't remember. At the crash site,
the tree tops were sheared off at an angle pointing to the wreckage. The
plane was totaled, everything except the passenger compartment came apart.
The plane came to rest inverted in some brush. The unconscious pilot came
to when he felt water dripping on his face, this actually turned out to be
blood from some pretty nasty cuts. Both he and his passenger survived
albeit with some pretty serious injuries.
The CAP homed in on the ELT signal and the two survivors were rescued. The
ELT antenna had been ripped off in the crash. The ELT was torn from its
mount but it was the type you can carry away and has the wrap around
antenna. The antenna unwrapped itself when the ELT was torn from it's
mount. When the pilot returned to his home town my friend asked him what had
happened. He said he couldn't remember, the last thing he remembered was
doing 180MPH through a mountain pass. By the way, the plane was an RV-6.
Ever since I heard that story I knew that if I ever built an airplane it
would be an RV. Could have been the stoutness of the airframe or it could
have been pure dumb luck - either way I don't care. I hope I never find out
if my -4 will be as tough (or as lucky) as that -6 was.
I've never checked the accident statistics to see if this incident really
happened. I don't really care because it's a great story with a happy
ending. I'm no Buster but I do love to tell a good story every now and
then.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan [SMTP:sbuc(at)hiwaay.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 7:46 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna location
RClayp5888(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> The ELT,according to the install instuctions from Ameri King say
the ELT
> itself should be installed on a longeron, floor rib, etc.
somewhere that will
> allow it to withstand certain impact requiements listed in their
book. It
> also should be placed as far aft as practicle to get to for
servicing. As far
> as the antennae goes, it should be on top of the aircraft. It is
unikely that
> we will crash (god forbid) upside down. So placing this little,
skinny
> antenae inside something or under something does not seem like a
good idea.
> The idea is for people to find you and if you hide your antennae
or put it in
> some place where it may get damaged and not transmit defeats the
purpose of
> it. Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved) almost finished.
Which part of the airplane is almost never damaged as a result of a
nasty crash?
The tail.
If we want to get really picky......the ELT antenna is vertically
polarized (EE's, please excuse my layman's explanation). The area of
weakest transmission is off the tip of the antenna, just where a
passing
satellite might try to "see" it. Some would argue that having the
antenna in a less than vertical position might increase the coverage
of
the transmission.
I agree that guessing where the antenna is going to be pointed
following
a crash is a "pointless" argument. My point is that we probably
shouldn't get too torqued about the pros and cons of ELT antenna
locations. The thing probably isn't going to work properly anyway,
and
if the plane really gets torn up, we may not see the rescuers
arriving
at the crash site.....
Sam Buchanan (feeling particularly fatalistic this morning....)
"The RV Journal" http//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:24:04 -0800 |
Scott,
The nylon part of the "Nylock" nut is the safety. There is no other safty
required once you torque it down. Just make sure you use a "-A" bolt (one
without the hole in the threaded end) so there is maximum thread contact.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV-List: Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:24:04 -0800
>Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:24:18 -0800
>
>
>
>I have a question for you all. I'm putting my RV-4 fuselage together. In
>several areas there are AN3 bolts and nylock (?) nuts used as fasteners.
>For instance, the top longeron where it attaches to the engine mount
>weldment, the center engine mount pads next to the rudder pedals, the
>tailwheel. Are these nuts safetied in any way or are they fine just as is?
>Thanks!
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
It's a small hole, not too expensive....Just don't use
the word Nee. How's life at the puzzle palace? I have
been digging Southwest and flying up and down the
Northen Cal coast. Alot of neat places to go out here.
I still go back to Bama to fly the viper, but that's
getting old real fast. I guess I'm spoiled. You get
your cowling fixed?
Smokey
--- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> Maj, AF/XOOT"
>
> Rob,
>
> Another question one could ask is what happens to
> the structural integrity
> of the roll bar with a rather large hole drilled
> through it supporting the
> pin?
>
> Of course, as my old instructor used to say, "At
> this point your luck has
> been quite miserable. What makes you think it's
> about to change. S---
> happens!"
>
> Jj
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:16 PM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> Rion;'
>
>
> I'll try to take a photo for you. First, several
> egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
> presented in the RV4. I have been flying the F-16
> for
> 12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the -4
> except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the rear
> and
> is electrically raised and lowered. It is
> explosively
> jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
> automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
> recommends ejection over "riding out" an off runway
> excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main gear
> failure and flipped over, trapping him for three
> hours
> until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the
> THREE
> inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and free
> him. A fire would have made a different ending to
> the
> story.
> As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary RV3
> pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff putting
> him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a sliding
> canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted the
> airplane. He was so humbled by the experience that
> he
> redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable, installed
> a
> BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield again.
> With
> 500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say that if
> anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
> otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up, I
> am
> jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
> locking pin, you simply reach over your left
> shoulder,
> pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the canopy.
> In
> normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply pull
> the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and slide
> the
> pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a tear
> away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel with
> aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I need
> to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when
> it's
> shut, it won't blow open.
>
> Rob
>
> --- RION BOURGEOIS wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION BOURGEOIS"
> >
> >
> > Sounds neat and simple. However, if the pin
> slides
> > backwards over the
> > canopy bulkhead, how do rescuers open the canopy
> to
> > get you out? Got
> > pictures? Rion
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> >
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi J;
> > >
> > > I used a pin from the nautilus weight room
> that
> > > holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a hole
> > in my
> > > roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a point
> on
> > the
> > > entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches
> > "above
> > > the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic
> bushings
> > in
> > > the hole in the roll bar just like the ones for
> > the
> > > rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could put
> a
> > > small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the
> end.
> > Now
> > > I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy
> > bulkhead
> > > on the ground and pull it back when I shut the
> > canopy.
> > > It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The cool
> > part
> > > is when the canopy is down, the pin slides
> > backwards
> > > OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing opening
> if
> > the
> > > canopy lock should fail. See ya.
> > >
> > > Rob Ray
> > > smokyray(at)yahoo.com
> > > --- "J. Rion Bourgeois"
> > wrote:
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion
> > Bourgeois"
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy
> > latch
> > > > mechanism. I would like
> > > > to use the standard latch mechanism in the
> > plans,
> > > > but it does not provide
> > > > for a partially open position for ground
> > operations.
> > > > I have heard a rumor
> > > > about a builder in the Seattle area who has
> > designed
> > > > a safety latch that
> > > > allows use of the standard canopy latch and
> has
> > a
> > > > partially open position.
> > > > Does anyone have his address and phone number
> or
> > any
> > > > suggested solutions?
> > > > Thanx, Rion
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > through
> > > >
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > > >
> > > > Matronics!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> Messenger.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum Pump Wrench |
Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation. Can
the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hamilton, Thom" <Thom.Hamilton(at)usa.xerox.com> |
| Subject: | ELT Antenna location |
Well, on the subject of ELT's, I would like to recommend reading the related
materials at Equipped to Survive, Doug Ritter's Survival website.
http://www.equipped.com
He discusses some very important general and aviation-specific survival
topics and also gives the best explanations I have seen so far of WHY the
current 121.5/243 ELT's don't work well and HOW the new 406MHz ELT's (which
we can't have yet!) work so much better. Interesting reading.
Thom Hamilton
MCSE, CNE, PP-ASEL, etc.
RV-8: Wings
Baton Rouge, LA 225-753-9339
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Japundza, Bob [mailto:bjapundza(at)dowagro.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 12:38 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: ELT Antenna location
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> My ELT is mounted behind the passenger seat on the baggage compartment
> floor, with the antenna mounted on the floor next to it. My fire
> extinguisher is also in the same area. The antenna is
> attached and insulated
> from the seat-back bulkhead so that it doesn't whip around the baggage
> compartment. I found this was a good place to put it for a couple of
> reasons:
>
> 1. Proximity to pilot. If the airplane ever went in, it
> would be easy to
> remove and carry with me if I was still alive and had to hike
> (or crawl)
> some distance.
> 2. Serviceability. Can't get any easier.
> 3. No antenna in the breeze.
> 4. No long length of coax that would add a pound or two.
> 5. Took about 15 minutes to mount it there.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Pump Wrench |
You need a modified wrench but you can easily make one yourself. Take an
old open end wrench and bend it 90 degrees 1" from the end.
Martin Sutter RV6 N868CM
>
> Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation. Can
> the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
>
> Thanks..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum Pump Wrench |
Paul,
Depending on the engine/vacuum pump, sometimes it is impossible to reach one
of the nuts holding the pump on, even with the wrench. I had to
loosen/tighten the offending nut by tapping on the points of the nut with a
screwdriver and hammer. This is a common method to get the vacuum nuts
on/off. It is a pain in the ass to do. You could modify a cheap wrench to
do this if there's enough room for it to fit by heating and bending the ends
of it.
Bob Japundza
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing [mailto:rv8er(at)home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 2:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Pump Wrench
Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation. Can
the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
Thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Pump Wrench |
Paul,
I pretty much agree with the others. You do need a special wrench unless
you don't have a rear prop governor and right magneto. Then it is no
problem what-so-ever. If you make one yourself then I recommend you find
the thinnest walled wrench to use as there is not much side clearance around
the nuts.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Pump Wrench
>Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:42:45 -0700
>
>
>Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation. Can
>the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
James W. Close: They only make auto paint but it's used on aircraft.
Possibly the first Polyurethanes were developed for jet aircraft because any
cleaner strong enough to remove the soot was also strong enough to remove the
paint.
I use DuPont Imron. It's the cheapest of the polys and works real good.
Good luck on your paint job.
Jim RV6A 31hr.
________________________________________________________________________________
Also look at Sikins (sp)??
its used in the auto industry and by boeing et
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sacramento Sky Ranch/BOOK |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> John Schemmer has published a book on aircraft engine and accessories called
> the Sacramento Skyranch Engineering Manual. In its fourth or fifth printing.
> Highly recommended reading...........
Agreed! It is the best engine engine maintenance book we've seen for Lycoming and
Continentals. It is not really a "how to; step-by-step book, but gives an
excellent understanding of the hows and whys unlike anything else published.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
(within the "engine maintenance" section)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Pump Wrench |
Yes and No!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 3:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Pump Wrench
>
>Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation. Can
>the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Pump Wrench |
Damn! You gave away the "Trade Secret" How A&P's make lots of dollars.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Japundza, Bob <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 3:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Vacuum Pump Wrench
>
>Paul,
>
>Depending on the engine/vacuum pump, sometimes it is impossible to reach
one
>of the nuts holding the pump on, even with the wrench. I had to
>loosen/tighten the offending nut by tapping on the points of the nut with a
>screwdriver and hammer. This is a common method to get the vacuum nuts
>on/off. It is a pain in the ass to do. You could modify a cheap wrench to
>do this if there's enough room for it to fit by heating and bending the
ends
>of it.
>
>Bob Japundza
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Paul Besing [mailto:rv8er(at)home.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 2:43 PM
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Pump Wrench
>
>
>Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation. Can
>the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Sikkens is a Dutch paint used on (among others) Merceedes. It dries rock hard
and is a somewhat heaver paint then the other poly paints. Repairability is
great, I can mix a batch up & use my air brush and the blend is so good I cant
tell my repaired part. We have 2 rv-6's on the field with this paint & my rv-4
is soon to get Sikkens..........
CW9371(at)aol.com on 02/01/2000 04:09:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint
Also look at Sikins (sp)??
its used in the auto industry and by boeing et
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Pump Wrench |
Paul:
I would say no. I put the pump on my engine. ( it setting in the floor) &
could not find a wreach that would work. I think a cheap thin wreach & a
torch would build one. OR borrow one from them A&P's on the field.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
******************************************************************************
>
>Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation.
>Can
>the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/1/2000 4:47:45 PM Central Standard Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Sikkens is a Dutch paint used on (among others) Merceedes. It dries rock
hard
and is a somewhat heaver paint then the other poly paints. Repairability is
great, I can mix a batch up & use my air brush and the blend is so good I
cant
tell my repaired part. We have 2 rv-6's on the field with this paint & my
rv-4
is soon to get Sikkens.. >>
My car has it
My F-1 Rocket will have it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | khorton(at)cyberus.ca |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
>I heard once that no lives have yet been saved by an ELT tho bodies and
>wreckage have been located.
>
>hal
Hal,
You may have heard that, but it wasn't true. Thousands of lives have
been saved by ELTs (worldwide). See:
http://www.cospas-sarsat.org/overview/overview.htm
http://www.dnd.ca/menu/SAR/eng/sar/gicossar.htm
Kevin
Horton
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Panda Mail, a free POP3 email checking service.
http://bstar.net/panda/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
Jim Close
You can add a flex agent to the auto paints such as the polyurethanes but you
should not have to worry about that on aluminum. I have Sherwin-Williams
Sunfire polyurethane with the flex agent on a fabric covered homebuilt that
is 13 years old and is now showing some cracks on structural edges that get
rubbed when the plane is washed or dusted down. The polyurethanes do get very
hard and are very resistant to UV from the sun but are not as chemical
resistant as epoxies. Would not recommend them inside engine compartment.
Dale Ensing
6A in progress almost as long as yours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
I overheard some local faa'er complain that the only persons saved alive
were climmers who took an elt along and set it off when they got stuck
on the mountain.
go figure.
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Pump Wrench |
Yes!. I bought a cheap ignition wrench and ground it down till it fit. A
little challenging but not the worse thing I've encountered.
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 2:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Pump Wrench
>
>Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation. Can
>the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Not sure who would tell you that info. Imron is widely used to paint
aluminum aircraft, in fact it may be considered a standard. Now it might
not be the best for a fabric covered airplane like a Pitts, however with
flex agent added it might work out OK with that also...Lots of Christen
Eagles have been painted with Imron.
Now after alot of looking around I have decided on PPG "Delta" paint.....we
will see if it lives up to what they claim. PPG does make excellent
products.
C.H.
----------
> From: Close, W. James <jclose(at)mtl.marconi.ca>
> To: 'RV List'
> Subject: RV-List: Paint
> Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 12:34 PM
>
>
> I am finally ready to paint my RV6 (after 11 years of construction - a
> record in itself) and would like info. on a good paint. I have been told
to
> avoid automotive paints or Imron since it won't tolerate the flexing of
the
> aluminum. Is this true? Does anyone have any personal experience with
> Air-Tech paints? Other recommendation?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Request for trim switch recommendation . . . |
Sorry to bother everyone with this but the following message came
in through our website catalog order form. The individual who
sent it didn't fill out any return data like name and email
address:
> I have been looking for a "reasonable" source for a rocker switch to use
>for electric trim - momentary on-off-on . like Piper uses for its electric
>trim - mounted on the yoke. Do you have (or know) of how I can get ahold of
>a similar switch? Thank You in advance.
If anyone on this list is "guilty", I'd be pleased to advise . . .
fess up now . . . I won't tell . . . reply directly
to nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
I used PPG Concept paint over AZKO epoxy primer, with good results for this
first time painter. The primer was wet sanded and wiped down with MEK just
before painting. I used only two coats of yellow, got good coverage and a
light paint job. Only compliments from observers.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 N136RC 4.5 hrs
Melbourne, FL
>From: "Close, W. James" <jclose(at)mtl.marconi.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'RV List'"
>Subject: RV-List: Paint
>Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 13:34:35 -0500
>
>
>I am finally ready to paint my RV6 (after 11 years of construction - a
>record in itself) and would like info. on a good paint. I have been told
>to
>avoid automotive paints or Imron since it won't tolerate the flexing of the
>aluminum. Is this true? Does anyone have any personal experience with
>Air-Tech paints? Other recommendation?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
I used the Randolph version of "Imron". It is flexible and see no signs of
cracking at any locations.
Bruce Patton
RV-6A
a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
how many hours on paint job?
BPattonsoa(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I used the Randolph version of "Imron". It is flexible and see no signs of
> cracking at any locations.
>
> Bruce Patton
> RV-6A
> a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)starwon.com.au> |
Hi, has anybody got any information on using different seats from the Vans
ones. I was hoping something adjustable and decent from an aerobatic 2
seater (Robin, Grob, Beagle, Cap) etc might do the job. -Shirley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net> |
| Subject: | Carb problem solved |
> I recently did the annual on RV6 (flying 4 years) and found that the carburetor
> bowl was loose.
> I pulled it off smeared some fuel valve lube on the gasket to seal it and
> tightened every thing up.
> Prior to this it ran fine. Now it runs too lean. nearly 1400 deg. at cruise power
> settings, mixture full rich. This represents 100 deg. or more increase.
> Anyone have any ideas on this?
First of all thanks to all who replied.
Here's what I did. I took the carb back off disassembled it, cleaned it carefully,
blew out all the passages as suggested by Cy Galley.
I also trued up the mating surfaces as suggested by Bryan Files. On visual inspection
these surfaces looked fine but when I started sanding them it was obvious they
were
very uneven. Was it enough to cause a leak? I don't know.
I also checked the float level as suggested by Eustace Bowhay. It was OK.
Here's some temp readings I'm getting now.
Alt: 3000' 75% power OAT 17c.
Full rich: #1- 1260 #2- 1330 #3- 1300 #4- 1330
Lean till it runs rough: #1- 1440 #2- 1500 #3- 1440 #4- 1470
Any comments on these numbers?
Thanks,
Bud
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Carpet Burn Test |
I did a burn test on my Pep Boys automotive carpeting and it burned pretty
quick. I checked FAR 25.853 and the test for being fire retardant (which is
required) seems to indicate it shouldn't sustain a fire, but its pretty
technical about the conditions so I can't really tell. Has anyone tried
setting strips of their fire retardant carpet on fire? Any good sources for
light, fire retardant carpet?
Dave Beizer
RV-6A waiting for hanger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Prop Balance at Manassas |
Listers,
Has anyone experienced the prop balance service at Manassas, Va airfield?
I have talked to the owner of Jet Services there and also his only prop
balance person, Dave. Dave sounded confident. He came from balancing helo
rotor blades some 22 years ago. Their Chadwick is a 1988 model. Their
methodology agrees with the talks here not too long ago.
Any comment is appreciated,
N985VU
RV-6
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
Totaly Bogus! I have been on a ELT search and recsue team for many years. At
least here in Colorado we do find survisors and they are VERY glad to see us.
Warren Gretz
khorton(at)cyberus.ca wrote:
>
>
> >I heard once that no lives have yet been saved by an ELT tho bodies and
> >wreckage have been located.
> >
> >hal
>
> Hal,
>
> You may have heard that, but it wasn't true. Thousands of lives have
> been saved by ELTs (worldwide). See:
>
> http://www.cospas-sarsat.org/overview/overview.htm
> http://www.dnd.ca/menu/SAR/eng/sar/gicossar.htm
>
> Kevin
> Horton
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> This message was sent using Panda Mail, a free POP3 email checking service.
> http://bstar.net/panda/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: All Electric - IFR panel - gyro search |
Contact Century Instruments in Wichita.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Burn Test |
In a message dated 2/1/00 11:09:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com writes:
<< I did a burn test on my Pep Boys automotive carpeting and it burned pretty
quick. I checked FAR 25.853 and the test for being fire retardant (which is
required) seems to indicate it shouldn't sustain a fire, but its pretty
technical about the conditions so I can't really tell. Has anyone tried
setting strips of their fire retardant carpet on fire? Any good sources for
light, fire retardant carpet?
Dave Beizer
RV-6A waiting for hanger >>
HA... On this one, I AM an expert (I work for the world's largest carpet
manufacturer)...
Several things to consider here:
1) Fiber type. Wool is the best from a fire retardent perspective, but
you probably won't find wool carpet in a color you'd want in your airplane.
Nylon is second best. Anything else is going to burn too easily for this
application.
2) Face density. (I.E. how tightly spaced the yarn is). Higher density is
better. Increased density reduces the amount of air that could reach a
flame. Shag is BAD....
3) The use of fire retardent latex to attach the secondary backing. This
helps.
The best place to find something that meets these criteria is a Commercial
carpet dealer. Commercial carpets are those used in businesses - not in your
house. Ask for something with a Class 1 Fire rating. This is the industry's
toughtest (non FAA) specification for burn resistance. Virtually everything
with a Class 1 rating is going to have nylon as the fiber, be densely tufted
(or woven to you non carpet types ;-)), and will have a Fire Retardent latex
binding the whole mess together.
And no, I can't sell ya any at a discount...
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Burn Test |
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I did a burn test on my Pep Boys automotive carpeting and it burned pretty
> quick..... Any good sources for light, fire retardant carpet?
> Dave Beizer
Dave,
I spoke to J.D. Lauritsen (Cleavland Tool) yesterday. She said go to any
carpet store and buy a closed loop, commercial grade carpet. This will meet the
fire requirements of the FAA. She prefers a closed loop to shag - easier to
keep clean.
Marty Sailer, RV-6A
name="mwsailer.vcf"
filename="mwsailer.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Sailer;Marty
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:mwsailer(at)erols.com
note:Marty RV-6A- Plumbing Fuselage
fn:Marty Sailer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
I'm not sure what model RV you have, but on the -4's, Larry Vetterman and a
few others have used a helicopter (army scout I believe) seat and it looks
nice. I talked to another gentleman at Abilene TX fly in (rain out) in '98
and he was commenting to another -4 owner and said they are VERY comfortable
and convenient, and make it easier for flap handle movements, etc. They
also did a floorboard mod that deepened the floor in the -4.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shirley Harding
> Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 8:41 PM
> To: RV LIST
> Subject: RV-List: Seats
>
>
> Hi, has anybody got any information on using different seats from the Vans
> ones. I was hoping something adjustable and decent from an aerobatic 2
> seater (Robin, Grob, Beagle, Cap) etc might do the job. -Shirley
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Burn Test |
It is possible to add fire retardant to a piece of fabric.
I found some at a company that sells stage and lighting materials
Specifically San Diego Stage and Lighting.
Reasonably priced small quantities for fire proofing stage curtains and
costumes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Burn Test |
-----Original Message-----
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com <PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com>
Snip>
>Any good sources for
>light, fire retardant carpet?
>
>Dave Beizer
>RV-6A waiting for hanger
>
Dave,
Don't know where you are located but I got a nice piece almost big enough to
do two 6's at Boeing Surplus in Seattle for 5 bucks.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept. 8, 1993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:24:04 -0800 |
Scott:
I had the same question eighteen months ago. No wire tie needed is what I
learned.
Dave
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I have a question for you all. I'm putting my RV-4 fuselage together. In
> several areas there are AN3 bolts and nylock (?) nuts used as fasteners.
> For instance, the top longeron where it attaches to the engine mount
> weldment, the center engine mount pads next to the rudder pedals, the
> tailwheel. Are these nuts safetied in any way or are they fine just as is?
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Request for trim switch recommendation . . . |
I didn't send it. But I would like to know the answer to the question if
you have one. Also, does anybody know of a gear switch with the little
round doohicky on the end of the toggle?
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 8:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Request for trim switch recommendation . . .
>
>Sorry to bother everyone with this but the following message came
>in through our website catalog order form. The individual who
>sent it didn't fill out any return data like name and email
>address:
>
>> I have been looking for a "reasonable" source for a rocker switch to use
>>for electric trim - momentary on-off-on . like Piper uses for its electric
>>trim - mounted on the yoke. Do you have (or know) of how I can get ahold
of
>>a similar switch? Thank You in advance.
>
>If anyone on this list is "guilty", I'd be pleased to advise . . .
>fess up now . . . I won't tell . . . reply directly
>to nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> ( time you try something, and it works. )
> ( One fails forward toward success. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <idavant(at)zip.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00 |
Question:
Has anyone used BRS 10-11 two part epoxy primer on their RV? If so would
you please let me know what problems you had and what you think of it.
Thanks, Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N-NUMBER--UNBELIEVABLE |
Guys,
Would somone have the address in OAK City to reserve an N Number, I cant
seem to locate it.
Thmk you
BSivori(at)AOL.Com
N929RV ( Reserved )
N15035 Seneca 1
N442MM Cesn 421C Golden Eagle ( New Addition )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
02 Feb 2000 08:06:10.-0500(at)matronics.com
Whoever said Imron wasn't good for airplanes is nuts. More aluminum airplanes
have been painted with Imron than anything else. All polys are flexible enough
for the job before you. Flex agents, as most old body guys will tell you is good
just long enough to get the part on the car. Once it bakes in the sun its
effects disapear. Your paint will not remain more flexible from putting this in.
Unless you are a real ace painter, any of the current urethane paints will do
fine for you, you would not be able to tell the difference. I would be more
concerned with tech support from the manufacturer. Remember, a good paint job is
not about the paint, its about whats under the paint.
Eric
>I am finally ready to paint my RV6 (after 11 years of construction - a
> record in itself) and would like info. on a good paint. I have been told
to
> avoid automotive paints or Imron since it won't tolerate the flexing of
the
> aluminum. Is this true? Does anyone have any personal experience with
> Air-Tech paints? Other recommendation?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/2/2000 7:10:00 AM Central Standard Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Whoever said Imron wasn't good for airplanes is nuts. More aluminum
airplanes
have been painted with Imron than anything else. All polys are flexible
enough
for the job before you. Flex agents, as most old body guys will tell you is
good
just long enough to get the part on the car. Once it bakes in the sun its
effects disapear. Your paint will not remain more flexible from putting this
in.
Unless you are a real ace painter, any of the current urethane paints will do
fine for you, you would not be able to tell the difference. I would be more
concerned with tech support from the manufacturer. Remember, a good paint
job is
not about the paint, its about whats under the paint.
Eric
>>
well according to the regional paint supplier for my area of wisconsin
sikkins is the most used aircraft paint since boeing uses it. But then again
who really knows.
The other thing is your wrong on the flex aditive. I have painted a
convertable top and the paint never cracked. Worn in 2 spots where it rubbed
when opening and closing but that was all. ALso I have had friends paint
their snowmobile vinal seats and i have had a motorcyle custom painted.
Crotch rocket so thats all plastic parts and they do flex alot at 150 mph.
But hey its just my opionion and that of the owner of the body shops that
paints all my stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00 |
RV6-List Digest Server wrote:
> From: PSHIREMAN(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 01/31/00
>
> --> RV6-List message posted by: PSHIREMAN(at)aol.com
>
> I recently subscribed to the RV-6 digest list. I receive a message each day
> but no information. It always says total messages posted ,day,date:0. In the
> body of the message there is a notation "Digest Mode Message Key". What do I
> do to get information?
> Thanks
> PSHIREMAN
I did the same thing when I first signed up. Then I signed up for the RV-List Digest
and found that everyone uses that list, most of the time, rather than the RV6-List
Digest. You will find everone in The RV-List Digest, sign up to it and you will
get
about 40-80 messages a day in it!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/7373/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb problem solved |
EGT readings are relative and can tell you whether you are too rich or lean
via peak temperatures. The actual temperature of the probe is depends on so
many variables that the numbers mean almost nothing. The location of the
probe, make of the probe, altitude, temperature, engine baffles and cooling,
density, humidity, throttle setting, prop load all effect the reading.
Comparisons are almost useless as every one of the variables has to be
identical. Cylinder head temps on the other hand are a little more reliable
but very slow acting. Anything approaching about 380 is a concern. The fact
that your are experiencing higher EGTs than before might only mean that you
are getting more power from better fuel control.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bud Newhall <bud(at)softcom.net>
Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 10:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Carb problem solved
>
>
>> I recently did the annual on RV6 (flying 4 years) and found that the
carburetor
>> bowl was loose.
>> I pulled it off smeared some fuel valve lube on the gasket to seal it and
>> tightened every thing up.
>> Prior to this it ran fine. Now it runs too lean. nearly 1400 deg. at
cruise power
>> settings, mixture full rich. This represents 100 deg. or more increase.
>> Anyone have any ideas on this?
>
>First of all thanks to all who replied.
>
>Here's what I did. I took the carb back off disassembled it, cleaned it
carefully,
>blew out all the passages as suggested by Cy Galley.
>I also trued up the mating surfaces as suggested by Bryan Files. On visual
inspection
>these surfaces looked fine but when I started sanding them it was obvious
they were
>very uneven. Was it enough to cause a leak? I don't know.
>I also checked the float level as suggested by Eustace Bowhay. It was OK.
>
>Here's some temp readings I'm getting now.
>Alt: 3000' 75% power OAT 17c.
>Full rich: #1- 1260 #2- 1330 #3- 1300 #4- 1330
>Lean till it runs rough: #1- 1440 #2- 1500 #3- 1440 #4- 1470
>Any comments on these numbers?
>
>Thanks,
>Bud
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Just for curiousity, why the MEK wipe down? I use MEK to clean up after
AZKO and never thought about doing a wipe down prior to painting?
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint
>
>I used PPG Concept paint over AZKO epoxy primer, with good results for this
>first time painter. The primer was wet sanded and wiped down with MEK just
>before painting. I used only two coats of yellow, got good coverage and a
>light paint job. Only compliments from observers.
>
>Rick Caldwell
>RV-6 N136RC 4.5 hrs
>Melbourne, FL
>
>
>>From: "Close, W. James" <jclose(at)mtl.marconi.ca>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: "'RV List'"
>>Subject: RV-List: Paint
>>Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 13:34:35 -0500
>>
>>
>>I am finally ready to paint my RV6 (after 11 years of construction - a
>>record in itself) and would like info. on a good paint. I have been told
>>to
>>avoid automotive paints or Imron since it won't tolerate the flexing of
the
>>aluminum. Is this true? Does anyone have any personal experience with
>>Air-Tech paints? Other recommendation?
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Debi VonDane" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N-NUMBER--UNBELIEVABLE |
Take a look at my web site: http://vondane.tripod.com/nnumber.htm
The VonDane's
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), Wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message ----- RV-List message posted by:
BSivori(at)aol.com
Guys,
Would somone have the address in OAK City to reserve an N Number, I
cant
seem to locate it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Split switches |
<3.0.6.32.20000201231924.008d04b0(at)aeroelectric.com>
>Bob, Regarding your idea that the switches should match. . . I would suggest
>that there are some switches in the cockpit that should not match, and I
>think the master/alt switch is one of them. When I look at the overhead
>panel of the MD80 I fly at work, I see a myriad of different switch types.
>Some twist, some toggle, some have round heads, some flat. A couple even
>have a little row of "landing lights" fixed to their toggle. All this is
>done for a reason. . . To help differentiate one from another at a glance.
>Now the Kitfox certainly has fewer switches to worry about, but I would
>argue that the MASTER switch should stand out (maybe this is why Cessna and
>Piper paint it red). Whether it's because I want to shut everything down
>quickly prior to a deadstick landing, or just to have it stand out in hopes
>that I don't walk off and leave it on (never happened to me personally, but
>I've heard. . . ), I see no reason, aesthetics aside, it should look like
>the others.
>
>Okay, I guess I could paint your switch red, but I still think mine looks
>pretty cool.
Inadvertent switch operation is a factor we'll be addressing
in the latest chapter to the book which I'm writing now. The
easiest way to deal with this is in panel layout. Consider
a single row of switches with a layout like l-mag, r-mag/start,
dc power master, alt field breaker, e-bus alt feed (or aux
dc power master, aux alt field breaker (if used) fuel boost/prime,
pitot heat, landing/taxi lts, nav lights, strobes.
When one is interested in killing everything in a hurry, the
ship is made cold with the switches at the far left. Switches
at the right are grouped in order of operation. Strobes on
first. If it's dark, nav lites next, other exterior lights
next. There's a buffer between power control switches and
appliance switches with controls where inadvertent selection
doesn't represent an immediate concern.
One can put little plastic booties over switches to color
code them. The recomendation for "sameness" is driven by
several considerations. Low cost, ease of replacment (one
nut and a few fast-ons), ease of initial fabrication,
mutliple suppliers for the same switch. I'm trying to
break the old paradigms where we EXPECT things on airplanes
to be expensive to buy (unique, unsubstitutable, type
certificated), expensive to replace (only your friendly $40/hr
certified wrench twister is allowed to do it), and carved
in stone by traditional-flyer-think that starts with
us as pilots and becomes more viscous as you move up the
ladder toward Jane Garvey's office.
One of the reasons that the future of single engine airplanes
is so bright is that amateur built aircraft already dominate
the modern fleet and will soon dominate the total fleet.
We can only improve on that by increasing people's comfort
level with application of critical review to their own airplane
based on how they plan to use it and without the "assistance"
of government or traditionalists. Split-second, bad decision
scenarios exaserbated by panel ergonomics has always been
a heavy tool wielded by doom-sayers amoungst us. In fact,
the vast majority of injury and death in airplanes comes from
poor pilotage followed by sudden onset of situations from
which there is no escape. The numbers of folk that met
their demise cause they hit the wrong switch while on
short final to a big rock are, I suggest, very tiny if
indeed they even exist.
Which brings up another point I've been pondering with
respect to crashworthiness. An engineer I work with at
Raytheon used to do accident investigations. He noted in
passing one day that airplanes in which the battery
was NOT ejected from the wreckage often caught fire.
Not once in his experiece did he see an airplane burn
if the battery was thrown out from the wreckage. We got
to talking about a g-switch in the battery master contactor
control circuit. Then I asked him, had the airplanes
NOT burned, was the crash such that anyone MIGHT have
gotten out. He thought for a time and said "no."
When you hit the mountainside, pull the wings off,
ice-up and stall, run out of gas, or hit another airplnae,
I'll suggest that the position of your switches when
you hit the ground is insignificant. We are in far
greater danger from failures of pilot judgment,
inattention and skills than from anything mechanical
or ergonomic.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Burn Test |
Dave,
We carry FAR certified carpet that is fairly light and wear very well.
Let me know if we can help you.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Wed,
02 Feb 2000 09:05:59.-0500(at)matronics.com
CW9371(at)aol.com on 02/02/2000 08:32:48 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint
In a message dated 2/2/2000 7:10:00 AM Central Standard Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
The other day I needed some scrap to make a fixture. I used some .020 off a
floorskin painted with Imron over ten years ago. I bent the skin to a 90 degree
bend with a 1/8th radius. I was amazed that the paint made the bend with no
signs of stress. Any properly aplied paint that results in a thin coat will
remain flexible. Everyones experiences are different.
As far as Imron goes, many a Marine and Navy Phantom went to sea with it and it
held up. Ten guys a day with boots on will not be walking on your paint job,
it's tough stuff. Personally I plan on SW AcryGlow because I like the support
I've received.
>>The other thing is your wrong on the flex aditive. I have painted a
convertable top and the paint never cracked. Worn in 2 spots where it rubbed
when opening and closing but that was all. ALso I have had friends paint
their snowmobile vinal seats and i have had a motorcyle custom painted.
Crotch rocket so thats all plastic parts and they do flex alot at 150 mph.
But hey its just my opionion and that of the owner of the body shops that
paints all my stuff.<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sticking contactors |
>It comes up again - the battery condition is "important" - if that is strong
>enough.
You bet it is . . .
>I have mentioned it before and would like to do so again.
>
>How do use simple fellows know that the battery is not up to it? Simply, the
>first most of us know is that the battery won't start the engine. By then I
>guess it's a bit late????
True. This is why the battery should be given the same
kind of attention in terms of preventative maintenance as
other things in the airplane. For example, we replace oil and
filters based on a schedule . . . not because the engine is at
risk of damage if the commodity is used a few hours longer
but because "it's time to renew it to INSURE ongoing airworthiness."
We replace tires not when they won't stay round any more but when
the tread wear falls below a certain point.
>Any plan to give "us" an article on battery care and covering vital signs as
>to health, and when it's at it's "use by" date? A discussion on voltmeters v
>ammeters might be helpful - I for one, as a layman, am confused by many
>learned comments.
It can be pretty simple. You have two choices:
(1) build and use the battery capacity tester described in an
article on my website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf
or
(2) do periodic replacment of a battery based on time just like
you do oil and air filters. Assuming that you plan to use
the best kind of battery you can buy (recombinant gas) then
every two years for the average day/vfr airplane is probably
a good benchmark. For airplanes flown long cross-country at
night or IFR might want to look at yearly replacment. I've
suggested that some airplanes which benefit from dual battery
installations get a new battery in the main slot and move the
main battery to the aux slot yearly. For most folk this is
a 60-75 dollar expense that is trivial compared to other
operating costs of the airplane. If one objects to the
"easy" methodology, then see suggestion (1).
Variations on the theme arise when the battery has been
inadvertently discharged . . . and sets for a long period
of time (left the master switch on). Then a capacity test
is in order. If the battery seems to be getting weaker in
terms of cranking the engine, then a capacity test is in order.
An accurate voltmeter that indicates an operating bus voltage
no less than 13.8 and no greater than 14.6 will assure you
that the battery is being maintained by ship's alternator.
RG batteries do not need attention for long term (over
winter storage). Put away charged, they're good for a year
or more with no attention. Put away discharged and they're
recycle material when you come back.
Pay just a little more attention to battery selection and
condition as described above and the problem of sticking
contactors will be a long way down on your list of concerns.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Joy Mosley" <mosley(at)sedona.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00 |
Why are you using primer, Van doesn't, either does Cessna?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N-NUMBER--UNBELIEVABLE |
Bill & Debi VonDane wrote:
>
> Take a look at my web site: http://vondane.tripod.com/nnumber.htm
>
> The VonDane's
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V (res), Wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
> Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> ----- Original Message ----- RV-List message posted by:
> BSivori(at)aol.com
>
> Guys,
>
> Would somone have the address in OAK City to reserve an N Number, I
> cant
> seem to locate it.
>
405-954-4206
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Most of us have been there & I (like a lot of others) decidsed to go with the
VANS solution because of cost , weight, fit & exrta time. There are options with
D.J. Laurstein (very bad spelling attempt) seats & the Ondorf seats that might
fit your need. Seat belt anchor(s) seat tiedown & fit all add to the complexity
of the issue.........
shirleyh(at)starwon.com.au on 02/01/2000 10:40:35 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Seats
Hi, has anybody got any information on using different seats from the Vans
ones. I was hoping something adjustable and decent from an aerobatic 2
seater (Robin, Grob, Beagle, Cap) etc might do the job. -Shirley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Pump Wrench |
FYI a friend just got the wrench from A/S and it doesn't fit! We ground off
about 0.005 from each flat of a nut and then the wrench just fit. The
broaching in the hex is very poor. I'd have returned it, but my friend was
in a hurry to get his new vacuum pump on so he just ground down the nuts.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 1:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Pump Wrench
>
>Spruce and others sell a special wrench for Vacuum pump installation. Can
>the installation be done without one, and without major frustration?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMarkert(at)vul.com (Michael Markert) |
| Subject: | Flap riveting bucking bar? |
I'm riveting the flaps skins but I cannot fit Avery's #620 or #625 bucking bars
down into the flap. I've already riveted the top and bottom skins to the ribs.
I'm using a V-Jig for alignment.
Does anyone have any suggestions about which bucking bar I should order.
Thanks,
Mike Markert
RV-6A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carb problem solved |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Cylinder head temps on the other hand are a little more reliable
>but very slow acting. Anything approaching about 380 is a concern.
Why?
The only time my CHTs get that low is downhill, throttled back, in cold
weather. Are we talking farenheit?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator fuse location |
'Lectric Bob,
Sorry about the nickname but I think it's starting to stick.
Your recent responses have been very helpful, as in the past, and we are
all grateful that you want to participate in the list as much as you do.
I want to question my design with your expert advise. (we already did
the consulting thing via snail-mail but I didn't ask this one). Hope
this applies to others on the list as well.
A recent post of yours talked about the connecting of the:
* alt. B lead directly to the batt. via the hot side of the starter
relay and
* the bus feed directly from the batt. relay.
So far, so good and it all makes great sense; for a fwd mounted batt. I
have an aft mount (c.g.) with the relay next to the batt. back there.
My un-installed design has a #2 AWG from the batt. relay up to a
firewall connector (race car stuff, Moroso) then #2 to the start relay
and #2/#4 ? to the alt. B output with the inline fuse.
How about the bus feed being a #4 from the cabin side of the firewall
connector rather than the batt. relay to keep the wire run shorter?
(Different ends of the same wire) Will the batt. still filter the alt.
output sufficiently?
Ques. #2: I'm taking your advice on the wiring of the starter relay
engaged light taping off of the output side of the starter relay. My
electronic inadequacies really show up here. I guess I don' t
understand elec. flow in a parallel circuit. Since the flow takes the
path of least resistance why doesn't all the juice go to ground out
through the light, till it burns up, and then to the starter
OR
why doesn't all the juice go down the easy #2AWG road to the starter and
bypass the light completely?
My guess is that the resistance somehow balances out but does it need
help in the form of any resistors in the light bulb line? I plan on
using LED's which come with various built-in resistances.
This quest. also applies to any other sensing circuit (i.e. fuel
pump-on). Should the light be tapped in parallel off of the ground post
of the unit?
Thanks again for all the help you provide.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT antenna location |
>It is unlikely that we will crash (god forbid) upside down.
Really?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00 |
Unofficial reply by other RV6 builder: I get that too. I saw yours so
I believe that means there is no current question or tip pending for
comment. I'm just guessing. If I can help you in any way, mine has 10
hours on it now. Good luck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johnny Johnson <johnnypaj(at)juno.com> |
<<< IMHO, if you modify, or delete the rollbar ..snip.. you are making a
possibly fatal mistake. >>>
Amen--witness when the Sea Fury flipped during TAXI at Sun n'Fun and took
the pilot's life--as I understand it, he suffocated before they could get
the airplane lifted up... he just couldn't breathe because his chin was
pushed down into his chest, no bad injuries. Try that posture at
home.... then go put a roll bar on your airplane.
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: S-Tec ST-180 HSI Specs |
Just looked up electric slaved HSI w/ bootstrap pricing in my Eastern
Avionics cat.
Collins PN-101 (reconditioned) - $4,800
King KCS-55A (recon) - $6,500
Century NSD-1000 - $7,900
S-Tec ST-180 - $7,900
Sandel SN-3308 - (call) ~$9,000
Seems that the Collins (good stuff) might do the trick a little cheaper
although you could carry the argument to the Sandel if you want IFR GPS.
Then their unit will suffice for the DG/CDI/ann. switching unit/moving
map.
Sure is easy to justify yourself into multi-dollar decisions. It scares
me that this doesn't scare me as much anymore.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap riveting bucking bar? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Markert <MMarkert(at)vul.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 9:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flap riveting bucking bar?
Mike, I took one of my bucking bars and polished a new surface on the flat
side. It worked out very well for the tight area in the flap. You might try
it!?
Tommy
6A fuselage
Ridgetop, TN
> I'm riveting the flaps skins but I cannot fit Avery's #620 or #625 bucking
bars
> down into the flap. I've already riveted the top and bottom skins to the
ribs.
> I'm using a V-Jig for alignment.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions about which bucking bar I should order.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Markert
> RV-6A wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Burn Test |
Check out our website at www.versadek.com the material is a highly textured
vinyl that looks like a level loop carpet. The big difference is that it won't
soak up water and is much easier to clean than carpet. It also has a class 1
fire rating and is very inexpensive (for RV builders). Will Crestinger is
putting some in his 6 on the floor and side walls, says it looks great.
Garry LeGare RV6 finishing,
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I did a burn test on my Pep Boys automotive carpeting and it burned pretty
> quick.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder |
Jeremy,
You wrote:
>> And I thought when I picked a -6, I'd get the benefit of following in
the footsteps of others who had solved problems a 1000 times over before
me!
You still will...about 1000 people have built the new vstab and rudder
(only they were using it for the RV-8/8A). :-)
Bottom line...build the empennage with the parts you are holding in your
hands. :-)<<
You're right of course. I am pleased that I get an improved kit at no extra
cost (plus I get to build a component from the fine RV-8 plans).
And if I ever get bored with the RV-6, I could build an RV-8 airframe and
swop the fin between the two aircraft! ;-)
Keep up the good work on the SourceRV website, I've already got good value
for money out of what's available so far.
Best wishes,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB 60435.
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Carb Heat, Vacuum Pump and EGT/CHT |
Hi Listers,
There are three things I could currently do with some builder feedback on,
either on or off list.
1. My -6 will have an O-320 requiring carb-heat. I will be fitting the High
Country exhaust. What components would builders recommend purchasing?
2. Aircraft Spruce have a Vacuum pump kit, which seems to include all the
components needed for an air-driven gyro installation at a reasonable
price. Has anyone used this, or are there any better suggestions.
3. My panel will have all analogue instruments. Any suggestions for good
egt/cht gauges to match the ISSPRO instruments in the Van's Accessories
Catalogue. Should I go with a system that can monitor all four cylinders,
or is one instrumented cylinder sufficient?
Many thanks,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB 60435
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator fuse location |
I have a related question and I'm sure Bob will comment. On Bob's diagrams
he calls for a 4 AWG wire running from the alternator through the fuselink
and up eventually to the bus (or fuse block). Van's wiring diagram and
electrical kit calls for 8 AWG which is considerably smaller and lighter.
Why the difference in this wire run??
Doug Weiler
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Battery crashworthiness (was split switches) |
Bob - I seems to me it would be possible to design a battery with an
internal fuse. A G-switch internal to the battery would be another
approach.
Regards,
Bob Newman
> Which brings up another point I've been pondering with
> respect to crashworthiness. An engineer I work with at
> Raytheon used to do accident investigations. He noted in
> passing one day that airplanes in which the battery
> was NOT ejected from the wreckage often caught fire.
> Not once in his experiece did he see an airplane burn
> if the battery was thrown out from the wreckage. We got
> to talking about a g-switch in the battery master contactor
> control circuit. Then I asked him, had the airplanes
> NOT burned, was the crash such that anyone MIGHT have
> gotten out. He thought for a time and said "no."
>
> When you hit the mountainside, pull the wings off,
> ice-up and stall, run out of gas, or hit another airplnae,
> I'll suggest that the position of your switches when
> you hit the ground is insignificant. We are in far
> greater danger from failures of pilot judgment,
> inattention and skills than from anything mechanical
> or ergonomic.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N-NUMBER--UNBELIEVABLE |
The instructions for registration can be found in FAR 47. The address
itself is in FAR 47.19. It is: FAA Aircraft Registry, Dept. of
Transportation, P.O. Box 25504, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma 73125.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
>From: BSivori(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: N-NUMBER--UNBELIEVABLE
>Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 07:05:47 EST
>
>
>Guys,
>
>Would somone have the address in OAK City to reserve an N Number, I cant
>seem to locate it.
>
>Thmk you
>
>BSivori(at)AOL.Com
>N929RV ( Reserved )
>N15035 Seneca 1
>N442MM Cesn 421C Golden Eagle ( New Addition )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | khorton(at)cyberus.ca |
| Subject: | Re: Flap riveting bucking bar? |
>
> I'm riveting the flaps skins but I cannot fit Avery's #620 or #625 bucking bars
> down into the flap. I've already riveted the top and bottom skins to the ribs.
> I'm using a V-Jig for alignment.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions about which bucking bar I should order.
>
> Mike Markert
Mike,
I picked up several pieces of scrap steel from a local scrap yard.
I have made several bucking bars from different thickness pieces.
It is easy to grind a smooth face, and then polish it up with a
Scotchbrite wheel. I recall I made one about 1/2 inch thick
that worked well in the flaps. The cost was a couple of bucks
and I didn't have to wait for UPS.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Box)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Panda Mail, a free POP3 email checking service.
http://bstar.net/panda/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat, Vacuum Pump and EGT/CHT |
Ed,
I used the Rapco Vacuum kit from Acft Spruce and found it to be quite
complete and easy to install.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB NO MORE WIRING!!!
>From: Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: Carb Heat, Vacuum Pump and EGT/CHT
>Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 11:38:17 -0500
>
>
>Hi Listers,
>
>There are three things I could currently do with some builder feedback on,
>either on or off list.
>
>1. My -6 will have an O-320 requiring carb-heat. I will be fitting the High
>Country exhaust. What components would builders recommend purchasing?
>
>2. Aircraft Spruce have a Vacuum pump kit, which seems to include all the
>components needed for an air-driven gyro installation at a reasonable
>price. Has anyone used this, or are there any better suggestions.
>
>3. My panel will have all analogue instruments. Any suggestions for good
>egt/cht gauges to match the ISSPRO instruments in the Van's Accessories
>Catalogue. Should I go with a system that can monitor all four cylinders,
>or is one instrumented cylinder sufficient?
>
>Many thanks,
>Ed Hicks.
>RV-6 QB 60435
>Bristol, UK.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap riveting bucking bar? |
Mike,
I used my back rivet plate, 1/4 inch thick, long enough to reach down in and it
is heavy so it does not move around much.
Worked for me,
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 Working on cowl, fiberglass sucks.
>
> Mike, I took one of my bucking bars and polished a new surface on the flat
> side. It worked out very well for the tight area in the flap. You might try
> it!?
>
> Tommy
> 6A fuselage
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
> > I'm riveting the flaps skins but I cannot fit Avery's #620 or #625 bucking
> bars
> > down into the flap. I've already riveted the top and bottom skins to the
> ribs.
> > I'm using a V-Jig for alignment.
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions about which bucking bar I should order.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mike Markert
> > RV-6A wings
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery crashworthiness (was split switches) |
>
>Bob - I seems to me it would be possible to design a battery with an
>internal fuse. A G-switch internal to the battery would be another
>approach.
>
>Regards,
we considered all those things. decided that the liklihood of
making any difference to the human condition was somewhere
between none and and miniscule. decided not the mention it to
the FAA lest it become a national mandate.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator fuse location |
>
>I have a related question and I'm sure Bob will comment. On Bob's diagrams
>he calls for a 4 AWG wire running from the alternator through the fuselink
>and up eventually to the bus (or fuse block). Van's wiring diagram and
>electrical kit calls for 8 AWG which is considerably smaller and lighter.
>Why the difference in this wire run??
Not a big deal. An 80A fuse (picked for transient current potential
for a cold 60A alternator) protects 4AWG wire. 8AWG is too small
for a 60A alternator but you could use 6AWG. 8AWG is okay for a
35 or 40A machine but you're still stuck with 70A as the minimum
size fuse available for convenient in-line protection which suggests
6AWG as an overall minimum. We picked 4AWG for the kit as it applied
universally to all alternators of 60A or below.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat, Vacuum Pump and EGT/CHT |
For egt/cht I would go with a Alegro or GEM 602 or 610 8 position (4 cht & 4
egt)....you can really monitor your expensive fan motor with a unit like these.
You can go further & for more money....... but for my money these are the least
I would go. The single analog cht/egt units are cheesie and waste pannel space
more so than provide any real benefit or data.
EdHicks(at)compuserve.com on 02/02/2000 11:38:17 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Carb Heat, Vacuum Pump and EGT/CHT
Hi Listers,
There are three things I could currently do with some builder feedback on,
either on or off list.
1. My -6 will have an O-320 requiring carb-heat. I will be fitting the High
Country exhaust. What components would builders recommend purchasing?
2. Aircraft Spruce have a Vacuum pump kit, which seems to include all the
components needed for an air-driven gyro installation at a reasonable
price. Has anyone used this, or are there any better suggestions.
3. My panel will have all analogue instruments. Any suggestions for good
egt/cht gauges to match the ISSPRO instruments in the Van's Accessories
Catalogue. Should I go with a system that can monitor all four cylinders,
or is one instrumented cylinder sufficient?
Many thanks,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB 60435
Bristol, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: landing lights |
After much soul & finance searching, with liberal helpings of mission
redefinition, I've decided to keep my -8 as a day VFR machine.
Consequently, I have for sale the Duckworks leading edge landing light kit
that I ordered with my wings. The box was opened for inventorying, but is
now packed as I found it. This kit will do both wings. I paid Van's $139.90
for the kit.
I'll take the first offer of $139.90 that I receive via email, with the buyer
paying the shipping costs of his choice. Conversely, for $150 I'll ship it
UPS Ground to anywhere in the lower 48 states. Buyer's choice.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A QB Builders Question |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
> Those of you who have built a 6/6A QB...what type of jig/table did you use
> to support the fuse while you worked on it? Is there a way to build one
>that
> facilitates putting the fuse on the gear??
A couple of short saw horses work fine. A narrow one for the aft
fuselage and a wide one for under the firewall area. Pad with pipe
insulation. The manual says a height such that the top longerons are at
about 45". If you want to get fancy and avoid back aches there are
suggestions for fancier, swiveling fixtures in the archives.
When the time comes it is easy to use a hoist of some kind on the engine
mount to raise the front fuselage enough to plug in the gear legs (on a
6). Gear installation on the 6 doesn't take more than 5 or 10 minutes;
6A appears to be different matter.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | FS: landing lights |
Ken,
You may want to rethink this. Even for day VFR it's always good to be as
visible as
possible in the pattern. It only takes a few hours per light to install.
Bob
RV8#423 working on wings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: FS: landing lights
After much soul & finance searching, with liberal helpings of mission
redefinition, I've decided to keep my -8 as a day VFR machine.
Consequently, I have for sale the Duckworks leading edge landing light kit
that I ordered with my wings. The box was opened for inventorying, but is
now packed as I found it. This kit will do both wings. I paid Van's
$139.90
for the kit.
I'll take the first offer of $139.90 that I receive via email, with the
buyer
paying the shipping costs of his choice. Conversely, for $150 I'll ship it
UPS Ground to anywhere in the lower 48 states. Buyer's choice.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Chandler <ylcrc(at)TTACS.TTU.EDU> |
| Subject: | Attitude indicatores |
After getting caught in the soup recently, I have been seriously thinking of
removing the electric turn cooridinator in my RV-3 and replacing it with an
AI. Problem is, I do a lot of aerobatics in my plane, although nothing over
3 or 3 and a half g's (not intentionally, anyway). Does anybody who does
basic aerobatics have experience with AI's in their plane? Does caging and
turning them off (if possible) help? I appreciate any advice on this.
Chuck
RV-3 N893FS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
In a message dated 2/2/2000 5:19:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bdimeo(at)mediaone.net writes:
> Ken,
>
> You may want to rethink this. Even for day VFR it's always good to be as
> visible as
> possible in the pattern. It only takes a few hours per light to install.
>
> Bob
> RV8#423 working on wings.
>
Bob,
It's certainly true that visibility to others in the pattern is important and
I do intend to install wingtip nav lights with strobes to address this issue.
As far as the landing lights go, I'll sleep on it tonight and see how I feel
about it tomorrow.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
He discusses some very important general and aviation-specific survival
topics and also gives the best explanations I have seen so far of WHY the
current 121.5/243 ELT's don't work well and HOW the new 406MHz ELT's (which
we can't have yet!) work so much better. Interesting reading.
While, we as aviators can not have the 406 mhz ELTs, they are readily
available through other sources. In the boating world they are called
EPIRBs. A 406 mhz EPIRB is readily available for under $500, maybe way
under 500. If I were flying somewhere where search and rescue might hinge
on the search part, I would definitely carry a 406mhz epirb. Of course it
would not have an impact trigger, a weakness, but not too big a weakness.
Obviously you would still have to have the ineffective old 123.5 mhz elt on
board for legalities.
On another front, cheap GPS receivers have created an even better EPIRB.
This one uses the gps receiver to transmit an EXACT location to the
satellites. Maybe someday we'll get this technology after the FAA approves
it. Of course, it will cost $5000 for the first 10 yrs.
Regards,
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Carb problem solved |
These #'s are fine you want about 100 to 150 degree rise.
I would say that you are right on.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
Here's some temp readings I'm getting now.
>Alt: 3000' 75% power OAT 17c.
>Full rich: #1- 1260 #2- 1330 #3- 1300 #4- 1330
>Lean till it runs rough: #1- 1440 #2- 1500 #3- 1440 #4- 1470
>Any comments on these numbers?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder |
Matt,I received the enpennage kit in May and got the old vertical fin, I
heard somewhere that it helps stability in bumpy air
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Garrett" <garrett(at)thesocket.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2000 3:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Vert Stab & Rudder
>
> Does anyone know when the new rudder design for the RV-6 started being
> shipped? I'm referring to the new counterbalance design in the rudder
that
> fits into cutout of the vert stab.
>
> Does anyone have an opinion as to which design is better, the old or the
> new?
>
> The reason I ask is that I ordered and received my tail kit in early
August
> '99 (just 6 months ago). I received the plans for the new tail and some of
> the parts for the new design that hold the counterbalance. However I
> received the old vert stab and rudder parts. I called Vans and they said
> that they would be willing to ship me the old RV-6 vert stab and rudder
> plans.
>
> If the new vert stabs & rudders for the RV-6 were being shipped before my
> August '99 order I want to know about it. Has anyone ordered the RV-6 tail
> kit before me and received the new design? Please let me know.
>
> Another note is that Vans said that when they make changes such as this it
> is usually to improve on design. They said not so in this case. The reason
> for the change was to reduce the number of parts. It seems that this
> counter balance requires more parts and if it's not an improvement in
> design, why add the lead weight to the tail?
>
> I have already finished the Vert Stab and wondering if I should just stay
> with the old design or start over with the new design if it's really that
> much better.
>
> Any comments appreciated.
>
> Matt Garrett
> Fresno, CA
> RV-6 Tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
In a message dated 2/2/00 3:12:30 PM Central Standard Time, Kbalch1(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I have for sale the Duckworks leading edge landing light kit
that I ordered with my wings >>
Ken, have you considered keeping the leading edge lights as recognition
lights with a flasher unit when your in or near the pattern?
Dale Ensing
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Simplified FAA Change |
> YES, this is in effect. The newest change to the
> FAA Certification Order
> 8130.2D authorizes this to happen. A complete copy
> of this new order is
> available on the web at:
> http:\\www.gov.pub.faa.oai/8130-2d.pdf
> The new limitation is found on page 113, paragraph
> (17). But be reminded
> that you must follow your operating limitations
> current for your aircraft.
> If you want this, and other, new limitation for your
> aircraft then you need
> to contact your local FSDO for new limitations.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A QB
> "Das Fed"
I was unable to access the above link. I was able to
access the info at:
http://www.mmac.jccbi.gov/afs/afs600//fdr/8130-2d.pdf
The page number is correct in the document but it is
page 129 in the PDF file.
Just want the info in the archives so when I need it
in the future, I can find it.
Thanks for the help Mike. Last month when I was
looking for it, I could not find it.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
| Subject: | S-Tec ST-180 HSI Specs |
What about the cost of installation? My guess is $1-2K for a valid warranty.
John Sheppard (RV8 tanks)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe Waltz
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: S-Tec ST-180 HSI Specs
Just looked up electric slaved HSI w/ bootstrap pricing in my Eastern
Avionics cat.
Collins PN-101 (reconditioned) - $4,800
King KCS-55A (recon) - $6,500
Century NSD-1000 - $7,900
S-Tec ST-180 - $7,900
Sandel SN-3308 - (call) ~$9,000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Williams" <kandjwilliams(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat, Vacuum Pump and EGT/CHT |
Ed Hicks wrote:
> >3. My panel will have all analogue instruments. Any suggestions for good
> >egt/cht gauges to match the ISSPRO instruments in the Van's Accessories
> >Catalogue. Should I go with a system that can monitor all four cylinders,
> >or is one instrumented cylinder sufficient?
Ed, I have one experience to report. I'm no expert so just take this as one
experience.
I am using the KS Avionics Tetra II in my RV6 and I like it a lot.
I bought it because I wanted an analogue gauge that would show all four
cylinders at one time. It has a toggle between CHT and EGT and an alarm to
monitor CHT for shock cooling. It was easy to install and has given me no
problems. They advertise in Sport Aviation each month and I have stopped by
their booth at Oshkosh each year for years..
A few comments about using it:
I have not taken the time to learn the fine points of using it. But it is
very interesting to watch the EGT temps move relative to one another with
different mixtures and power settings. I conclude that people are right
when the say distribution is less than perfect with a carb on the Lycoming..
For me, the gauge has been most helpful in following CHT - especially in the
test flying last summer. In hot weather CHTs limit my ability to climb max
angle or max rate. The gauge was a big help in improving the baffles and
helping me learn the time and temp limits for steep climbs with the set-up
in my RV.
As for the multi cylinder EGT, I sometimes wonder if it is worth the money.
It seems that when I lean "by ear" I get about to where the gauge says I
should be. But I have a lot to learn (still under 60 hours with it) and
expect I will learn to take better advantage of the info it offers. I have
learned that I would not be happy with a unit that required switching from
cylinder to cylinder to get the readings.
Keith Williams
RV6 - Moline IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Simplified FAA Change |
Well...ok..I screwed up the address a little bit. Here is the correct one
although yours is also perfectly good.
http://www.fedworld.gov/pub/faa-oai/8130-2d.pdf
It was early in the hour...bleary eyes...more excuses...etc.
Mike Robertson
"Das Fed"
>From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Simplified FAA Change
>Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:02:05 -0800 (PST)
>
>
> > YES, this is in effect. The newest change to the
> > FAA Certification Order
> > 8130.2D authorizes this to happen. A complete copy
> > of this new order is
> > available on the web at:
> > http:\\www.gov.pub.faa.oai/8130-2d.pdf
> > The new limitation is found on page 113, paragraph
> > (17). But be reminded
> > that you must follow your operating limitations
> > current for your aircraft.
> > If you want this, and other, new limitation for your
> > aircraft then you need
> > to contact your local FSDO for new limitations.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A QB
> > "Das Fed"
>
>I was unable to access the above link. I was able to
>access the info at:
>http://www.mmac.jccbi.gov/afs/afs600//fdr/8130-2d.pdf
>
>The page number is correct in the document but it is
>page 129 in the PDF file.
>
>Just want the info in the archives so when I need it
>in the future, I can find it.
>
>Thanks for the help Mike. Last month when I was
>looking for it, I could not find it.
>
>
>====
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>Flying So. CA, USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A QB Builders Question |
If you look, you may still find several jigs for sale. Solid, square in
3-dimensions. An overhead track with pulley to turn fuse over is also
helpfull (esp. for the gear part).
bcb
KAKlewin(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Fellow Listers,
>
> Ive run out of things to do on my tail kit...and I think it will be
> 5-6
> weeks before the 6A quickbuild makes it out to Oklahoma....so my question
> is:
> Those of you who have built a 6/6A QB...what type of jig/table did you use
> to support the fuse while you worked on it? Is there a way to build one
> that
> facilitates putting the fuse on the gear?? Looking for any ideas or links
> to
> pictures that would help out. Thanks!!! (didn't find much in the
> archives..=(...)
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
> 6A Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
I fly out of a non-tower field and landing lights are always on coming
in, day or night.
bcb.
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/2/2000 5:19:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bdimeo(at)mediaone.net writes:
>
> > Ken,
> >
> > You may want to rethink this. Even for day VFR it's always good to be as
> > visible as
> > possible in the pattern. It only takes a few hours per light to install.
> >
> > Bob
> > RV8#423 working on wings.
> >
>
> Bob,
>
> It's certainly true that visibility to others in the pattern is important and
> I do intend to install wingtip nav lights with strobes to address this issue.
> As far as the landing lights go, I'll sleep on it tonight and see how I feel
> about it tomorrow.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | More RV8 flight info (long) |
Greetings,
More flying today. This calm, sunny New Mexico weather is really getting
annoying...so annoying I might have to go fly in it AGAIN tomorrow. ;)
Maybe if I bore some more holes in the sky some rain might fall out of it.
Anyway, I thought I'd comment on my findings with rudder trim or lack
thereof in my case. Any of you -8 builders contemplating offsetting the
VS...don't! Put it on straight down the centerline of the fuselage. The
fiberglass fairing fit's pretty well, although not as well as one you make
yourself. Offsetting the fin will pretty much require you to make a new
one. Yuck! In cruise flight, I need absolutely no rudder input to keep the
ball centered. In climb or descent profiles, the ball displaces less than
one ball width in all but really steep pitch angles. Rudder pedal pressure
is very light to center the ball so use those feet and don't bother with an
operable rudder trim mechanism. The engine offset in the engine mount seems
to be right on the ball (pun intended) and the plane tracks straight as long
as YOU build the airplane straight. After seeing so many RV's with rudder
tabs of various designs, I wonder if Van just got it perfect this time or
I'm just lucky? Hmm.
The flight today was a short hop up to Moriarty to visit friends at their
hangar. They were also being visited by two guys, each with a Pitt's...one
an S-1S and the other an S-2B. We flew back home in formation into the
setting sun...a turquoise, pink and red expanse of grandeur that can only be
appreciated properly in an RV. The Pitt's guys had to look through a forrest
of struts and wires. Pity the poor Pitt's driver. I only wish I had that
climb and roll rate! OK, so I want one...I admit it. After crossing the
jagged peak of the 10,000' Sandia mountains, I said "adios" to the Pitts
drivers as they dropped down into their airport pattern. I continued on into
the syrupy smooth evening air, engine droning along with fresh oil in it's
veins, courtesy of Aeroshell and a couple hours of my time this morning.
Entering the pattern at Double Eagle, my home roost (roost? eagle?
coincidence?), I marveled at the way the RV handled in the smooth air. Not a
bump or even a hint that I was actually flying....as smooth as sitting on
the couch. I had to keep checking the airspeed indicator to remind myself
that I was still moving! Now, onto the downwind with flaps to 10...smooth
and easy she slows to 85mph. The turn to base is effortless, no traffic on
final, 80mph indicated, this is too easy! On final, speed goes down to 75,
power back to idle, a little more back pressure...more...hold it..hold
it...chirp! We're down and rolling straight as an arrow..the best three
pointer yet!
Back at the FBO office, while sipping some old yet free coffee, the local
police chopper pilot stops by to chat. Nice fellow, and LOVES the way the RV
looks. He says to me, "You know, it would be almost impossible NOT to look
cool in that airplane". Yeah, I have to agree. "Ya know, that gyro
stabilized camera we have on the Jet Ranger would take GREAT aerial shots of
your plane". Woohoo! Where do I sign?!
After finishing that cup of java the consistency of the oil I had drained
out of the RV that morning, we bid farewell and off I went to join the
traffic on I-40 on my way home. Another day filled with RV fun, aerobatics,
great people, and smiles. It doesn't get any better. Where to tomorrow? What
part of the New Mexico sky haven't I touched yet? Where's that chart...
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More RV8 flight info (long) |
Brian
You using fixed pitch or constant speed prop?
Tom
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> More flying today. This calm, sunny New Mexico weather is really getting
> annoying...so annoying I might have to go fly in it AGAIN tomorrow. ;)
> Maybe if I bore some more holes in the sky some rain might fall out of it.
>
> Anyway, I thought I'd comment on my findings with rudder trim or lack
> thereof in my case. Any of you -8 builders contemplating offsetting the
> VS...don't! Put it on straight down the centerline of the fuselage. The
> fiberglass fairing fit's pretty well, although not as well as one you make
> yourself. Offsetting the fin will pretty much require you to make a new
> one. Yuck! In cruise flight, I need absolutely no rudder input to keep the
> ball centered. In climb or descent profiles, the ball displaces less than
> one ball width in all but really steep pitch angles. Rudder pedal pressure
> is very light to center the ball so use those feet and don't bother with an
> operable rudder trim mechanism. The engine offset in the engine mount seems
> to be right on the ball (pun intended) and the plane tracks straight as long
> as YOU build the airplane straight. After seeing so many RV's with rudder
> tabs of various designs, I wonder if Van just got it perfect this time or
> I'm just lucky? Hmm.
>
> The flight today was a short hop up to Moriarty to visit friends at their
> hangar. They were also being visited by two guys, each with a Pitt's...one
> an S-1S and the other an S-2B. We flew back home in formation into the
> setting sun...a turquoise, pink and red expanse of grandeur that can only be
> appreciated properly in an RV. The Pitt's guys had to look through a forrest
> of struts and wires. Pity the poor Pitt's driver. I only wish I had that
> climb and roll rate! OK, so I want one...I admit it. After crossing the
> jagged peak of the 10,000' Sandia mountains, I said "adios" to the Pitts
> drivers as they dropped down into their airport pattern. I continued on into
> the syrupy smooth evening air, engine droning along with fresh oil in it's
> veins, courtesy of Aeroshell and a couple hours of my time this morning.
>
> Entering the pattern at Double Eagle, my home roost (roost? eagle?
> coincidence?), I marveled at the way the RV handled in the smooth air. Not a
> bump or even a hint that I was actually flying....as smooth as sitting on
> the couch. I had to keep checking the airspeed indicator to remind myself
> that I was still moving! Now, onto the downwind with flaps to 10...smooth
> and easy she slows to 85mph. The turn to base is effortless, no traffic on
> final, 80mph indicated, this is too easy! On final, speed goes down to 75,
> power back to idle, a little more back pressure...more...hold it..hold
> it...chirp! We're down and rolling straight as an arrow..the best three
> pointer yet!
>
> Back at the FBO office, while sipping some old yet free coffee, the local
> police chopper pilot stops by to chat. Nice fellow, and LOVES the way the RV
> looks. He says to me, "You know, it would be almost impossible NOT to look
> cool in that airplane". Yeah, I have to agree. "Ya know, that gyro
> stabilized camera we have on the Jet Ranger would take GREAT aerial shots of
> your plane". Woohoo! Where do I sign?!
>
> After finishing that cup of java the consistency of the oil I had drained
> out of the RV that morning, we bid farewell and off I went to join the
> traffic on I-40 on my way home. Another day filled with RV fun, aerobatics,
> great people, and smiles. It doesn't get any better. Where to tomorrow? What
> part of the New Mexico sky haven't I touched yet? Where's that chart...
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass empennage tips |
> Listers, I'm finally at the point where I've decided to bite the bullet
and
> tackle installation of the dreaded fiberglass empennage fairings. I'm
> leaning towards using #6 screws & nutplates, but I'm also considering the
> #4 screw kit available from Cleveland Tool.
>
> My only problem with the #4's is that I don't have a nutplate jig for
them
> and I do for #6's and I really like the way the screwholes line up with
the
> nutplates underneath when the jigs are used.
>
> Any feedback on the pro's and con's of 4's versus 6's ?
To each their own, but I used the same c'sunk screws, #8's, for everything
on the outside of the plane. When it comes inspection time, I'll get a
coffee can and go to it. Tanks, wingtips, various fairings, wheel
fairings, etc.. I believe the carmakers do just the opposite - every bolt
and screw under the hood is a slightly different size, drives one nuts.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panasonic Batteries |
>This is a question for Bob Nuckolls. Are the Panasonic sealed lead acid
>batteries that are for sale in the Digi Key catalogue suitable for aircraft
>use, and are these RG batteries?
Yes and yes. For engine cranking you need to pick a product that will
allow you to draw hundreds of amps from the battery . . . fast-on tabs
are just too small. There are gobs of places to buy batteries perfectly
suited to light aircraft. Here are just a few:
Powersonic: PS-12180
http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html
Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . .
http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
Panasonic: particularly the LCRD1271P
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-rd
1217p.pdf
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.htm
Yuasa-Exide: Check out the NP18-12B at this site . . .
http://www.yuasa-exide.com/np-prod.html
Handle these like any other lead-acid battery. Bus volts no
less than 13.8 - 14.2 is about ideal - no more than 14.6
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator fuse location |
>
>'Lectric Bob,
>
>Sorry about the nickname but I think it's starting to stick.
>
>Your recent responses have been very helpful, as in the past, and we are
>all grateful that you want to participate in the list as much as you do.
>
>I want to question my design with your expert advise. (we already did
>the consulting thing via snail-mail but I didn't ask this one). Hope
>this applies to others on the list as well.
>
>A recent post of yours talked about the connecting of the:
>* alt. B lead directly to the batt. via the hot side of the starter
>relay and
>* the bus feed directly from the batt. relay.
>So far, so good and it all makes great sense; for a fwd mounted batt. I
>have an aft mount (c.g.) with the relay next to the batt. back there.
>My un-installed design has a #2 AWG from the batt. relay up to a
>firewall connector (race car stuff, Moroso) then #2 to the start relay
>and #2/#4 ? to the alt. B output with the inline fuse.
>
>How about the bus feed being a #4 from the cabin side of the firewall
>connector rather than the batt. relay to keep the wire run shorter?
>(Different ends of the same wire) Will the batt. still filter the alt.
>output sufficiently?
It's standard practice to reduce wire length were possible.
For most rear mounted batteries, you feed the main bus from
the hot side of the starter contactor right where the alternator
b-lead feed attaches. In this case, 2AWG battery feed to tail
is elecrically desirable.
>Ques. #2: I'm taking your advice on the wiring of the starter relay
>engaged light taping off of the output side of the starter relay. My
>electronic inadequacies really show up here. I guess I don' t
>understand elec. flow in a parallel circuit. Since the flow takes the
>path of least resistance why doesn't all the juice go to ground out
>through the light, till it burns up, and then to the starter
>OR
>why doesn't all the juice go down the easy #2AWG road to the starter and
>bypass the light completely?
No, the light bulb is simply an additional powered device on the
starter side of the contactor. The starter gets fed from the downstream
side of the contactor and grounds to the engine. The warning light
also feeds from the downstream side of the contactor and grounds
behind the instrument panel. It's sort of like the nav lights,
three bulbs fed by a single switched power source. In this case,
one device is much smaller than the other but it comes out the same.
>My guess is that the resistance somehow balances out but does it need
>help in the form of any resistors in the light bulb line? I plan on
>using LED's which come with various built-in resistances.
LEDs do need a series resistance because they are 1.8 volt devices
that require some current limiting. A 470 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor
from Radio Shack works. See my article on LED's on the website.
If you were using a 12v incandescent lamp, you wouldn't need the
resistor.
>This quest. also applies to any other sensing circuit (i.e. fuel
>pump-on). Should the light be tapped in parallel off of the ground post
>of the unit?
You got it.
>Thanks again for all the help you provide.
>
Pleased to be helpful.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass empennage tips |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> First, I used pop rivets there, which most I have seen have done. I can see
> no reason why you would need to get in there.
>
> Second, you don't need a platenut jig tool for any platenut really. The
> easiest thing to do is drill a #40 hole where you want the screw, then stick
> a cleco through it and the platenut on the outside of your hole. Then use
> the platenut as a drill jig. For a #8 platenut, use a #30. I have put in
> all of my platenuts throughout the kit without a platenut jig.
Yes you can do it this way but a platenut jig makes the job must faster and is
more accurate. I made a platenut jig as I was to cheap to buy the real thing.
I timed myself when installing the platenuts for the wingtips and wing root
fairings; 1 minute per platenut. You really get good installing these things
after the 400th one.
Gary Zilik - RV-6A N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICKN106(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: 02/01/00 |
UNSUBSRIBE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Request for trim switch recommendation . . . |
>
>I didn't send it. But I would like to know the answer to the question if
>you have one. Also, does anybody know of a gear switch with the little
>round doohicky on the end of the toggle?
You don't want to know what the spam-can guys pay for those
switches. You can make your own by cutting a piece of
rod stock to form a "biscuit" of aluminum for the doohicky.
Finish the cut surfaces nice an smooth. Get a husky
toggle switch that uses a pin through the toggle's
pivot point . . . i.e. the toggle cannot be rotated
about its long axis. Microswitch is a good brand.
Use belt sander to sculpt the taper in the toggle such
that you have at least 1/4" length of parallel side
cylinder at the end of the toggle. Drill a radial hole
in your biscuit to just accept the modified toggle. Drill and
tap two set screw holes to attach the doohicky to the
toggle after it's mounted on the panel.
You can do a similar thing with flap-hickeys too.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator fuse location |
In a message dated 2/2/00 9:51:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
<< On Bob's diagrams
he calls for a 4 AWG wire running from the alternator through the fuselink
and up eventually to the bus (or fuse block). Van's wiring diagram and
electrical kit calls for 8 AWG which is considerably smaller and lighter.
Why the difference in this wire run?? >>
I won't presume to speak for Bob, but it's possible he is
derating/overkilling to ensure that his kit works across the broadest
spectrum of different aircraft regardless of wire run distance. Per the
curves in AC 43.13-1B pg 11-23, a single 8 AWG wire in free air will support
60 Amps at 14V in a run not exceeding 12 ft with a 0.5V drop.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Request for trim switch recommendation . . . |
>
>I didn't send it. But I would like to know the answer to the question if
>you have one. Also, does anybody know of a gear switch with the little
>round doohicky on the end of the toggle?
Oh yeah, the guilty party fessed up. I sent him a
minature 2-pole, (on)-off-(on) rocker that I
used in another trim system a few years ago. It
was a CW Industries product. I belive DigiKey
still stocks them.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap riveting bucking bar? |
I have several dollars invested in bucking bars but the one I use the most is
a very simple piece of steel 1/2"X1"X2". Buff the edges so that none are
sharp and put duct tape on sides you are not using. You will be amazed at
how well it works on -3 rivets with a 3X gun and 35psi of air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New How To Page!!!!! |
Hello Listers:
A new How To Page. AA
MR/AirCore-Bob Haan's Fuse Set up. Or
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page89.html
Shows Bob Haan's method of mounting his fuse block (from Electric Bob) to
make it easier to service.
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panasonic Batteries |
>This is a question for Bob Nuckolls. Are the Panasonic sealed lead acid
>batteries that are for sale in the Digi Key catalogue suitable for aircraft
>use, and are these RG batteries?
Yes and yes. For engine cranking you need to pick a product that will
allow you to draw hundreds of amps from the battery . . . fast-on tabs
are just too small. There are gobs of places to buy batteries perfectly
suited to light aircraft. Here are just a few:
Powersonic: PS-12180
http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html
Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . .
http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
Panasonic: particularly the LCRD1271P
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-rd
1217p.pdf
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.htm
Yuasa-Exide: Check out the NP18-12B at this site . . .
http://www.yuasa-exide.com/np-prod.html
Handle these like any other lead-acid battery. Bus volts no
less than 13.8 - 14.2 is about ideal - no more than 14.6
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New How To Page!!!!! |
THANKS JOHN FOR THE NEW INFO. WE LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING YOU AT OUR EAA
CHAPTER 326 MEETING NEXT TUESDAY NITE AT 7:00PM AT THUN FIELD IN PUYALLUP, WA
BILL BRUTON
RV-8 WINGS ALLLLL MOOOOOST DONE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cmcgough <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00 |
That is not correct, they both do!!
Chris RV6 Fuse
Bill and Joy Mosley wrote:
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Bill and Joy Mosley"
>
> Why are you using primer, Van doesn't, either does Cessna?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gerti Vander Schuur" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude indicatores |
same thing with me. pushed the weather once and vowed never again without
an AI. I rebuilt my panel with an electric ai from RC Allen. Behind the
panel within easy reach while flying I installed an on/off toggle dedicated
to the ai. The switch is off unless I am entering possible IMC. Todate
after 150 hours and much much akro the attitude gyro works fine. Some ideas
I have seen since is a tandem mount of the ai and dg on a special subpanel
at the expected position on the instrument panel. during akro work the
whole unit is pulled right out of the airplane. Although the panel
fasteners appeared to be dzus fittings, I don't know how the rear panel
worked. I like this idea even better. the ai and dg are two of the
heaviest bricks on the panel and probably would last a long time if left in
the hanger until x-country time.
Paul 250 hrs in a -4
F-1 #6 almost here
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Chandler <ylcrc(at)TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Date: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 2:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Attitude indicatores
>
>After getting caught in the soup recently, I have been seriously thinking
of
>removing the electric turn cooridinator in my RV-3 and replacing it with an
>AI. Problem is, I do a lot of aerobatics in my plane, although nothing
over
>3 or 3 and a half g's (not intentionally, anyway). Does anybody who does
>basic aerobatics have experience with AI's in their plane? Does caging and
>turning them off (if possible) help? I appreciate any advice on this.
>
>Chuck
>RV-3 N893FS
>
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builders Question / Fuse Jig |
I used a 10 foot extention ladder (two 10' or 12' section ladder that slides
into its' self) for the base of the jig. The legs were the home depo heavy duty
folding adjustable leg length folding saw horses ( you could park a truck on
these guys---there great) anyway the ladder was/still is dead nuts accurate. I
built the entire wing & fuse on the ladder jig. The construction of "I" or eye
beam and aluminium made for zero movement. When I was done the ladder went back
on the wall & the folding saw horses folded up & I got em' in the garage for
other (normal) uses......... Quick, easy,light, cheap, useful & cleans up nice
...i.e. hangs on the garage wall when finished.
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.esmtp on 02/02/2000 09:43:07 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6/6A QB Builders Question
201-229-111) with ESMTP
If you look, you may still find several jigs for sale. Solid, square in
3-dimensions. An overhead track with pulley to turn fuse over is also
helpfull (esp. for the gear part).
bcb
KAKlewin(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Fellow Listers,
>
> Ive run out of things to do on my tail kit...and I think it will be
> 5-6
> weeks before the 6A quickbuild makes it out to Oklahoma....so my question
> is:
> Those of you who have built a 6/6A QB...what type of jig/table did you use
> to support the fuse while you worked on it? Is there a way to build one
> that
> facilitates putting the fuse on the gear?? Looking for any ideas or links
> to
> pictures that would help out. Thanks!!! (didn't find much in the
> archives..=(...)
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
> 6A Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Request for trim switch recommendation . . . |
Thanks, Bob.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
In a message dated 2/3/2000 9:36:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
> Hell, even in the pattern the lights will help. Its a matter of safety. For
> 20 dollars you can add the wing-wag blinker and have a strobe effect that
will
> prove a safety matter for BOTH you and the poor fellow pilot up there with
> you..The RV's have a small profile in the air and anything to improve visual
> recognition is important. At least paint it som VAN aircraft company color
> so I can see it if I ever share the sky with you. BTW this is VAN paints
his
> planes the way he does......You can see 'em........
OK, I read this and took a deep breath, counted to ten, then reread it and
decided that I wasn't over-reacting.
You seem to be implying that I'm not concerned with safety. I can assure
you, as a pilot and a CFI (not to mention someone who likes to go home each
night in the same condition in which I left the house that morning), that no
one is more concerned with preaching and practicing aviation safety than I.
The "...poor fellow pilot up there with [me]..." has a safer aerial companion
in me than he otherwise might.
You know nothing about me, as a pilot or as a person, but you see fit to
impugn my character (and that's what such a comment amounts to in my book)
based on my decision to do without landing lights in a day VFR airplane. I'm
all for civil discourse and the right of good-intentioned people to disagree,
but no one should presume to lecture to a stranger.
While landing lights can contribute to visibility from the head-on position,
their efficacy during daylight operations ranges (in my opinion) from fair
down to barely marginal. By the time I see another plane's light (in
daylight), I have already seen the plane itself. I cannot recall one
instance of spotting someone's light (in daylight) before spotting the plane
itself. Your mileage, of course, may vary.
The wing-wag blinker is something I hadn't considered. I believe (with no
first-hand empirical evidence) that it would increase the likelihood of
seeing and being seen over an airplane with steadily shining lights (or none
at all). That said, I withdraw my offer to sell the Duckworks light kit.
Next time, perhaps include just the useful suggestion without the snippy
comments.
Respectfully,
Ken Balch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude indicatores |
Chuck..
I looked into this pretty extensively. Get an electric horizon and put it
on its own switch. If you want to get upside down...switch off the
horizon...let it run down....and cage. The guys at RC Allen said caging
once it had run down did little good though.
Chat Daniel
RV8 N678RV(reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Chandler <ylcrc(at)TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Date: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 5:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Attitude indicatores
>
>After getting caught in the soup recently, I have been seriously thinking
of
>removing the electric turn cooridinator in my RV-3 and replacing it with an
>AI. Problem is, I do a lot of aerobatics in my plane, although nothing
over
>3 or 3 and a half g's (not intentionally, anyway). Does anybody who does
>basic aerobatics have experience with AI's in their plane? Does caging and
>turning them off (if possible) help? I appreciate any advice on this.
>
>Chuck
>RV-3 N893FS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More RV8 flight info (long) |
Brian I think I speak for everyone on "The List" when I say, I hate you. Keep
sharing these great stories their motivational value is immense. Hope to meet
one day and share some of mine and buy you a cup of good coffee.
Garry LeGare, RV6 finishing.
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> More flying today. This calm, sunny New Mexico weather is really getting
> annoying...so annoying I might have to go fly in it AGAIN tomorrow. ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harris" <johnh(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrants |
I have seen some postings in archives re: Throttle Quadrants, thread seems
to have died last spring. Has anyone been successful with a quadrant on the
R V6?
Any help would be appreciated.
John Harris
Cary, NC
RV9A N901RV (Reserved)
Completing Tail (BTW, 110 hours in the log with about 10 to go on the
elevators.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Deffner" <deffner(at)glade.net> |
Looking for an RV-3. Would give it a gooodd home here in Texas. David
Deffner
deffner(at)glade.net day 903-8742211 eve 254-562-7137 or if busy 7330.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
Every other reply to your post hinted that if you were on the fence about
installing the lights ....go ahead and do it. Character assignation was not the
intent of the post. I, like the other posters, seem to think that its a good
idea too include them. I am following your reasoning why not to include the
lights so that I might learn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator fuse location |
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Alternator fuse location
>
>In a message dated 2/2/00 9:51:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
>
><< On Bob's diagrams
> he calls for a 4 AWG wire running from the alternator through the fuselink
> and up eventually to the bus (or fuse block). Van's wiring diagram and
> electrical kit calls for 8 AWG which is considerably smaller and lighter.
> Why the difference in this wire run?? >>
>
>I won't presume to speak for Bob, but it's possible he is
>derating/overkilling to ensure that his kit works across the broadest
>spectrum of different aircraft regardless of wire run distance. Per the
>curves in AC 43.13-1B pg 11-23, a single 8 AWG wire in free air will
support
>60 Amps at 14V in a run not exceeding 12 ft with a 0.5V drop.
>
>-GV
My local RV4 builder friend questioned my use of #8 with my 60A alternator
because his Aeroelectric Connection book calls out #4. He was less concerned
after viewing the above reference and my C172 Model M parts service manual,
drawing 0500062, Wiring Diagram, Alternator System 60A, which has #8 wire
for its 60A alternator feed. If its good enough for Cessna, it good enough
for me.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Canopy Latch |
I located the name of the person in California who either designed or has
forwarded a version of a clever safety canopy latch for a RV-4 ( also -3 &
-8). I have faxed blueprints that are just barley readable--but useable.
(Another few faxes of faxes may resolve these blueprints to mush) . If Someone
has a site to post the images on-I can fax to that location.....Contact person
is Jeff Sharman, 707-448-1103 & -2041. I think these numbers are his work
numbers so .........if the boss answers.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Del Schneider" <del(at)deltech.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00 |
Subject: Primer.
Are we talking about primer on the parts and pieces or on the exterior? As
we all know all the parts are primed before assembly. If we are talking
about the exterior this depends on the finish coat one entends to use. In
most every case the paint manufacture will lay out the procedure necessary
for a successful job. I would suggest you follow the manufactures
recomendation.
Del Schneider
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of cmcgough
> Sent: February 3, 1998 11:55 PM
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00
>
>
> --> RV6-List message posted by: cmcgough
>
> That is not correct, they both do!!
>
> Chris RV6 Fuse
>
> Bill and Joy Mosley wrote:
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Bill and Joy Mosley"
>
> >
> > Why are you using primer, Van doesn't, either does Cessna?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Grounding Mag P Leads "How To" |
New page showing Solder Seals Grounding out Mag P Leads at the switch. AAMR/ Solder Seal Photo or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page93.html
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude indicatores |
Charles Chandler wrote:
>
>
> After getting caught in the soup recently, I have been seriously thinking of
> removing the electric turn cooridinator in my RV-3 and replacing it with an
> AI. Problem is, I do a lot of aerobatics in my plane, although nothing over
> 3 or 3 and a half g's (not intentionally, anyway). Does anybody who does
> basic aerobatics have experience with AI's in their plane? Does caging and
> turning them off (if possible) help? I appreciate any advice on this.
>
> Chuck
> RV-3 N893FS
>
>Chuck--
I was interested in this before I got my RV airborne.
General concensus: electric RC Allen.
1. Most foolproof: mounted on removable subpanel (like the Extra's AI/DG)
2. 2nd best: separate on/off switch (obviously "off" when not straight/level)
3. The newer RC Allen units don't have caging knobs (at least that I
can see)
--but the guy who overhauls gyros at the local avionics shop says
that caging won't help, anyway
and if I do acro with the gyro in, he'll just put my credit card
number on his Roladex
4. I tried to find a used military fighter unit like the Navy AJN-3,
but way too expensive and very heavy
5. Look at the RV Archives under "attitude indicator & aerobatics"
bcb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Arzflyer(at)aol.com <Arzflyer(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, February 03, 2000 8:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: re:Question
Snip>
>. I installed a small dam in
>front of number 1 and now all temps are within 5-10 degrees in the mid-360
Al, How wide and how high is the dam?
Thanks
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept. 8,1993
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" <James.Johnson(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Not yet Dude. I haven't even been down to my beloved -4 in four weeks.
I've been stuck up here, mostly stuck in SNOW. Keep it flying Smokey...I'm
jealous!
Jj
-----Original Message-----
From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
--> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
It's a small hole, not too expensive....Just don't use
the word Nee. How's life at the puzzle palace? I have
been digging Southwest and flying up and down the
Northen Cal coast. Alot of neat places to go out here.
I still go back to Bama to fly the viper, but that's
getting old real fast. I guess I'm spoiled. You get
your cowling fixed?
Smokey
--- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> Maj, AF/XOOT"
>
> Rob,
>
> Another question one could ask is what happens to
> the structural integrity
> of the roll bar with a rather large hole drilled
> through it supporting the
> pin?
>
> Of course, as my old instructor used to say, "At
> this point your luck has
> been quite miserable. What makes you think it's
> about to change. S---
> happens!"
>
> Jj
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:16 PM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> Rion;'
>
>
> I'll try to take a photo for you. First, several
> egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
> presented in the RV4. I have been flying the F-16
> for
> 12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the -4
> except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the rear
> and
> is electrically raised and lowered. It is
> explosively
> jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
> automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
> recommends ejection over "riding out" an off runway
> excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main gear
> failure and flipped over, trapping him for three
> hours
> until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the
> THREE
> inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and free
> him. A fire would have made a different ending to
> the
> story.
> As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary RV3
> pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff putting
> him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a sliding
> canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted the
> airplane. He was so humbled by the experience that
> he
> redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable, installed
> a
> BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield again.
> With
> 500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say that if
> anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
> otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up, I
> am
> jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
> locking pin, you simply reach over your left
> shoulder,
> pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the canopy.
> In
> normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply pull
> the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and slide
> the
> pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a tear
> away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel with
> aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I need
> to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when
> it's
> shut, it won't blow open.
>
> Rob
>
> --- RION BOURGEOIS wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION BOURGEOIS"
> >
> >
> > Sounds neat and simple. However, if the pin
> slides
> > backwards over the
> > canopy bulkhead, how do rescuers open the canopy
> to
> > get you out? Got
> > pictures? Rion
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> >
> >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi J;
> > >
> > > I used a pin from the nautilus weight room
> that
> > > holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a hole
> > in my
> > > roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a point
> on
> > the
> > > entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches
> > "above
> > > the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic
> bushings
> > in
> > > the hole in the roll bar just like the ones for
> > the
> > > rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could put
> a
> > > small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the
> end.
> > Now
> > > I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy
> > bulkhead
> > > on the ground and pull it back when I shut the
> > canopy.
> > > It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The cool
> > part
> > > is when the canopy is down, the pin slides
> > backwards
> > > OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing opening
> if
> > the
> > > canopy lock should fail. See ya.
> > >
> > > Rob Ray
> > > smokyray(at)yahoo.com
> > > --- "J. Rion Bourgeois"
> > wrote:
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion
> > Bourgeois"
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I am at the decision point for my RV-4 canopy
> > latch
> > > > mechanism. I would like
> > > > to use the standard latch mechanism in the
> > plans,
> > > > but it does not provide
> > > > for a partially open position for ground
> > operations.
> > > > I have heard a rumor
> > > > about a builder in the Seattle area who has
> > designed
> > > > a safety latch that
> > > > allows use of the standard canopy latch and
> has
> > a
> > > > partially open position.
> > > > Does anyone have his address and phone number
> or
> > any
> > > > suggested solutions?
> > > > Thanx, Rion
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > through
> > > >
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > > >
> > > > Matronics!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> Messenger.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude indicators |
How about diverting the vacuum on a vacuum AI, in essence, turning
it off? Would that save the gyro?
Larry Olson
>I looked into this pretty extensively. Get an electric horizon and put it
>on its own switch. If you want to get upside down...switch off the
>horizon...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attitude indicators |
Don't know BUT it takes 10 to 15 minutes for the gyro noise in my Bonanza to
stop...Caging locks the gymbals and the gyro can't spin or tumble. An inop gyro
(turned vac. off) still is able to roll and tumble...does this cause dammage ???
lolson(at)doitnow.com on 02/03/2000 02:48:11 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Attitude indicators
How about diverting the vacuum on a vacuum AI, in essence, turning
it off? Would that save the gyro?
Larry Olson
>I looked into this pretty extensively. Get an electric horizon and put it
>on its own switch. If you want to get upside down...switch off the
>horizon...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
In a message dated 2/3/2000 11:57:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
> Every other reply to your post hinted that if you were on the fence about
> installing the lights ....go ahead and do it. Character assignation was
not
> the
> intent of the post. I, like the other posters, seem to think that its a
good
> idea too include them. I am following your reasoning why not to include the
> lights so that I might learn.
I've got to apologize for leaping to the negative conclusion about your
earlier post. That'll teach me to answer email after a spousal argument
(about the project, no less!). While you're certainly correct that the other
responses hinted (or stated) that I should keep the lights, I guess I got a
little riled about the tone I perceived in your post. Probably should've
kept my mouth shut until I'd cooled off from my phone call with my wife.
Again, my apologies for being overly sensitive earlier today.
With regards to my reasoning on excluding the landing lights, my thinking
went like this: 1) My personal experience is that I've always seen other
aircraft before seeing their landing light in daylight operations; 2) I
believe that wingtip strobes (which I intend to install) are more
attention-getting than landing lights, as well as being visible from almost
any direction, as opposed to the landing light only being visible from
directly head-on. Granted, when you are head-on you can use all the
opportunites for increased visibility possible. That said, I asked myself
how often that head-on situation actually develops in practice and was it
worth the weight and expense (albeit minor on both counts) to install landing
lights. My conclusion, for myself, was that it wasn't worth it. The
flashing light option might push me over the fence toward feeling that the
installation is worth it, though how often it would actually come into play
still weighs heavily against it, in my opinion.
As builders and pilots of experimental aircraft it is both our unique
opportunity to choose those components which will equip our aircraft and our
weighty responsibility to choose wisely. All of the opinions I've gathered
on this issue and others are collectively contributing to my ability to make
those wise choices as I look forward to the day when I can put their results
to the test.
Best Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
right wing skins drilled on & leading edge strapped down
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A QB Kit For Sale |
RV-6A QB Kit For Sale
The kit was bought in 1998 with the following
options :
1. Sliding Canopy.
2. Elevator Electric Trim Kit.
3. Rudder bottom without provision for tail light.
4. Leading Edge Landing Light kit both wings.
5. Electric Flap option.
6. Firewall Recess Kit.
7. Manual Aileron Trim Kit.
8.Fresh Air Vent System.
9. External Step kit both sides.
10. Static Air Kit.
11. Dual Brake Kit.
The Empennage is done except for the fiberglass work..
The floor boards, left arm rest and window sill have been installed.
The rear top cover has been positioned and drilled.
The kit does not include the finishing kit.
I am selling this kit because I bought another kit that was 90% finished.
Asking $15,000.00. Please respond off list.
My phone number is (925) 829-4680 and my E-mail
address is
pjbodie(at)home.com
The kit is located in Dublin, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Pin/ Front Secure Option |
Of the many ways to secure the left & right main cowl pins I came up with a
variation that worked great & looks nice. At Oshgosh there were many clever
methods of hiding the front pin area while securing the pin from forward motion
& into the prop arc. Some needed F/G work that is beyond me (like imbeding the
pin doors even with the cowl) or making 1 inch tear drop shaped pieces to hide
the bent pin end).
I wanted the end to be straight so I could spin in the pins with my battery
opt. drill (effectivly ruleing out any variation of bent pin end)
I took 3.5 inches ( or so) of #4 stainless hinge, took out the pin &
seperated the hinge halves. I then knocked off the eyes with a disk cutter all
save the last eye so I had basically a strip of SS with one eye at the end. I
then took the camlock from the oil door and installed the thumb/wing end onto
the end of my SS strip-opposite the remaining eye. I placed the camlock
recptical inside just off the cowl center on the inside of the cowl such that
the SS eye stuck out of the front of the cowl at the air inlet opening at the
extreem right / left (you do the same thing on both right & left because you
have two pins) about a inch or so. Insert the pin so that about 1 inch or so
extending (depending on how far the single eye sticks out) and the hinge eye
captures the pin. You need to twist the SS piece about 1 inch from the wing end
90 degrees. When all closed up & the SS piece polished, it looks quite nice. A
quick reach inside the air inlet allows you to unlock the camlock/SS piece and
remove the pin retainer. If anyone who is interested can arrange a external
picture post I could send in a picture..............cheers. Oh yea, I also took
a #40 screw tap and threaded the first 3/32 or so on the eye & forced in a SS
mini allen screw. When polished off you can't see the allen & the allen keeps
the cowlpin from comming thru the eye.............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <idavant(at)zip.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/02/00 |
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Bill and Joy Mosley"
>
> Why are you using primer, Van doesn't, either does Cessna?
I live near the sea and everything corrodes here.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
In a message dated 2/3/00 11:31:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
johnh(at)bellsouth.net writes:
<< I have seen some postings in archives re: Throttle Quadrants, thread seems
to have died last spring. Has anyone been successful with a quadrant on the
R V6?
Any help would be appreciated.
John Harris
Cary, NC
RV9A N901RV (Reserved)
Completing Tail (BTW, 110 hours in the log with about 10 to go on the
elevators.) >>
The answer is yes. Tracy Saylor, who is listed in the Yeller Pages sells
one. I have a picture of it (as installed in his very fast RV-6) which I can
scan. Anyone wanna post it on their website?
In the not too distant future I'm gonna create a site of my own, simply
showing a few things I did differently, but I'm a little busy these days with
engine installation. My installation of one of Tracy's quadrants in my plane
is something I plan to include in the site.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DWAIN L. HARRIS" <102617.2606(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Stick boot pattern |
Hi Wesley
I ordered 2 from D J Lauritsen , They were cheap ( considering the time I
had in my
goofy looking ones ) And did'nt take long to get .Just pick the color.
Good Luck
Dwain Harris
N164DH
RV-6
293 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Inverted fuel pickup - RV8-QB |
Anyone out there whose done the conversion of a RV-8 quick build fuel tank to
include the inverted pick-up, flapper door, etc. have any suggestion on how
to proceed with this?
-Don
RV-8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap riveting bucking bar? |
I second this and also slant back one bucking edge to 80 Degrees, sometimes
even put a wedge of wood between it and the frame member to be riveted.
Works great for Ailerons, skin to top rear spar flange and many, many other
places. I think I first saw this on Sam Buchannan's site.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: <Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap riveting bucking bar?
>
> I have several dollars invested in bucking bars but the one I use the most
is
> a very simple piece of steel 1/2"X1"X2". Buff the edges so that none are
> sharp and put duct tape on sides you are not using. You will be amazed at
> how well it works on -3 rivets with a 3X gun and 35psi of air.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: re:forgot the question |
In a message dated 2/3/00 8:21:15 AM Pacific Standard Time, Arzflyer(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Does
anyone have good info on insurance. >>
Liability & $60K hull from AIG thru Falcon for me was $1124 last year.
Contact info in the Yellers.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
Ken, FWIW, I too have the Duckworks lights, one for landing, one for taxi,
and without the glass lens and plastic housing they are very light. Since you
are cutting out a large piece of .025" al. I don't really think there is much
net increase, not including the wiring, relays/switches/breakers in this line
of thought obviously. I do agree with all the other posts that advocate
maximum visibility in the pattern, especially for that clown that likes to
make straight-in approches without regard for the rest of us. maybe the
wig-wags will make him think I'm a "heavy" closing on him. Andy Johnson, -8
right wing in the jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Ammeter Sensor Location |
I have the uMonitor ammeter sensor that a 2 gauge wire goes through. Is
there a preferred location for this sensor? Does it matter where in the
stream of electrons that this goes?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Salvage Aircraft |
Listers,
Has anyone out there purchased a salvage aircraft (like a wind-damaged
172, Warrior, Mooney, etc.) to use for parts for an RV? I am thinking if
I could get something for a good price, and use the engine, most
instruments, radios, antennas, strobes, N-number, etc, etc....then sell
the remaining airframe for scrap, it might be an inexpensive way to get a
lot of good equipment.
Several problems that come to mind are transporting the wreck from
wherever it's located; where to put it when it arrives ( I have limited
workspace); and where to acquire a wreck in the first place. Anybody
know where to buy something like this and have any idea how much it would
cost (ballpark figure) to buy something like a wrecked 20-year old
Warrior with good mid-time O-320 in it?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
RV-8A Left Wing Tank
Cedar Rapids, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage Aircraft |
you can call all the aircraft insurance companies and
get on their salvage aircraft bidding list. Some
charge a nominal fee. And yes this is a good resource
for equiping an rv however be advised that the sealed
bid that you will eventually bid for a good mid to low
time engine (most will have prop strikes) will be
quite high example: piper warrior crashed with wing
and fuselage damage good avionics and bent prop you
will probably want to bid in the high sixes to nines
and even then you still may not win the bid fwiw
Glenn Williams
8A WINGS
FT. WORTH TEXAS
A&P MECH
--- czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Has anyone out there purchased a salvage aircraft
> (like a wind-damaged
> 172, Warrior, Mooney, etc.) to use for parts for an
> RV? I am thinking if
> I could get something for a good price, and use the
> engine, most
> instruments, radios, antennas, strobes, N-number,
> etc, etc....then sell
> the remaining airframe for scrap, it might be an
> inexpensive way to get a
> lot of good equipment.
>
> Several problems that come to mind are transporting
> the wreck from
> wherever it's located; where to put it when it
> arrives ( I have limited
> workspace); and where to acquire a wreck in the
> first place. Anybody
> know where to buy something like this and have any
> idea how much it would
> cost (ballpark figure) to buy something like a
> wrecked 20-year old
> Warrior with good mid-time O-320 in it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> RV-8A Left Wing Tank
> Cedar Rapids, IA
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage Aircraft |
Mark,
I would definitely recommend it. Although I didn't do it for my -6 (I
wanted zero time engine and instruments), I did do it for my Long-EZ. I
bought a Piper Tomahawk for $7500 and flew the heck out of it for two years.
I then dismantled it and used the engine, instruments, switches, etc. I got
the local flight school to buy my prop and windshield and I sold the rest to
a guy who was repairing a ground looped Tomahawk. My overall cost? About
$1700 when it was all said and done. Heck, that's not even mentioning the
good will of removing a Tomacoffin from the active flight roster. :>)
I think the real trick is finding one. Most of the salvage folks really
pounce on the disaster areas looking for wind damaged planes. They know the
ins and outs and they can buy in bulk with cash on hand. The insurance
companies are also used to dealing with them. I'd maybe look around for a
real beat up used plane with a reasonably maintained engine. With the
homebuilt market booming, used spam cans get picked over pretty quickly.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Final stages of painting.......Yea, I've been saying that for months now"
-----Original Message-----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 6:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Salvage Aircraft
>
>Listers,
>
>Has anyone out there purchased a salvage aircraft (like a wind-damaged
>172, Warrior, Mooney, etc.) to use for parts for an RV? I am thinking if
>I could get something for a good price, and use the engine, most
>instruments, radios, antennas, strobes, N-number, etc, etc....then sell
>the remaining airframe for scrap, it might be an inexpensive way to get a
>lot of good equipment.
>
>Several problems that come to mind are transporting the wreck from
>wherever it's located; where to put it when it arrives ( I have limited
>workspace); and where to acquire a wreck in the first place. Anybody
>know where to buy something like this and have any idea how much it would
>cost (ballpark figure) to buy something like a wrecked 20-year old
>Warrior with good mid-time O-320 in it?
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>RV-8A Left Wing Tank
>Cedar Rapids, IA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lemen, Ted Ce" <ted.ce.lemen(at)lmco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00 |
I find it hard to believe that Van doesn't use a primer. I always heard that
he likes Veriprime.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill and Joy Mosley [SMTP:mosley(at)sedona.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2094 7:38 AM
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/01/00
>
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Bill and Joy Mosley"
>
> Why are you using primer, Van doesn't, either does Cessna?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Salvage Aircraft |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I've purchased two salvaged aircraft. Each salvage(aircraft or parts) is
different so you have to go through an evaluation process on each. One thing
you can count on is a fairly competitive market. Research out the value of
the individual parts and determine what your utilization will be compared to
what you can buy those parts as you need them and make an offer.
I recently bid on a Bonanza and am thanking my lucky stars I didn't get it,
but even if I had paid the winning bid price, it probably wouldn't have been
a huge loser. It was a 1947 hail damaged with very nice avionics and almost
run out engine. Brought 22500+-. Well, you can buy a pretty nice non hail
damaged one for just a little more. Storage and transportation are factors
you should include in your evaluation. I rented a ryder truck(22ft and
think) loaded it up and brouoght it home. Cost about $700 + time.
Here is a website which lists salvage aircraft -
http://www.aviation-salvage.com/default.htm
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: czechsix(at)juno.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Salvage Aircraft
>Date: Fri, Feb 4, 2000, 5:05 AM
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Has anyone out there purchased a salvage aircraft (like a wind-damaged
> 172, Warrior, Mooney, etc.) to use for parts for an RV? I am thinking if
> I could get something for a good price, and use the engine, most
> instruments, radios, antennas, strobes, N-number, etc, etc....then sell
> the remaining airframe for scrap, it might be an inexpensive way to get a
> lot of good equipment.
>
> Several problems that come to mind are transporting the wreck from
> wherever it's located; where to put it when it arrives ( I have limited
> workspace); and where to acquire a wreck in the first place. Anybody
> know where to buy something like this and have any idea how much it would
> cost (ballpark figure) to buy something like a wrecked 20-year old
> Warrior with good mid-time O-320 in it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> RV-8A Left Wing Tank
> Cedar Rapids, IA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Di Meo" <bdimeo(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | FS: landing lights |
e
Ken,
Let me make this one observation.
I do a lot of training at the Nashua airport. It's arguably the busiest GA
airport in the Northeast. On a busy day we can have a pattern that has both
right and left traffic simultaneously with a mix of trainers, high
performance singles, twins (I usually am training in one of these) and jet
traffic. There are days where the final stretches four miles and with six
planes. One of the things I try to do is stay ahead of the controller in
anticipating when I can get onto the runway for take off so we don't add to
the already long delays.
Trying to find aircraft on final is the toughest part of this because they
provide the smallest visual signature. (Remember that runway incursions is a
hot button for the FAA? That's due in some part in not seeing the incoming
traffic on final.) When they have their landing lights on, I can immediately
pick the traffic up. Without the lights I sometimes have to search. The
smaller the plane the harder to find. Strobes don't help as much in the
daytime as you might suspect. The Landing lights are a bigger spot to look
at. When I'm in the pattern it's always "lights on on final" as well as
"Cabin heater off" and GUMPS.
Enough, I've got to get to work or this thing will never get built!
Bob
RV8#423
TRYING to get the wings finished this month.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FS: landing lights
In a message dated 2/3/2000 11:57:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
> Every other reply to your post hinted that if you were on the fence about
> installing the lights ....go ahead and do it. Character assignation was
not
> the
> intent of the post. I, like the other posters, seem to think that its a
good
> idea too include them. I am following your reasoning why not to include
the
> lights so that I might learn.
I've got to apologize for leaping to the negative conclusion about your
earlier post. That'll teach me to answer email after a spousal argument
(about the project, no less!). While you're certainly correct that the
other
responses hinted (or stated) that I should keep the lights, I guess I got a
little riled about the tone I perceived in your post. Probably should've
kept my mouth shut until I'd cooled off from my phone call with my wife.
Again, my apologies for being overly sensitive earlier today.
With regards to my reasoning on excluding the landing lights, my thinking
went like this: 1) My personal experience is that I've always seen other
aircraft before seeing their landing light in daylight operations; 2) I
believe that wingtip strobes (which I intend to install) are more
attention-getting than landing lights, as well as being visible from almost
any direction, as opposed to the landing light only being visible from
directly head-on. Granted, when you are head-on you can use all the
opportunites for increased visibility possible. That said, I asked myself
how often that head-on situation actually develops in practice and was it
worth the weight and expense (albeit minor on both counts) to install
landing
lights. My conclusion, for myself, was that it wasn't worth it. The
flashing light option might push me over the fence toward feeling that the
installation is worth it, though how often it would actually come into play
still weighs heavily against it, in my opinion.
As builders and pilots of experimental aircraft it is both our unique
opportunity to choose those components which will equip our aircraft and our
weighty responsibility to choose wisely. All of the opinions I've gathered
on this issue and others are collectively contributing to my ability to make
those wise choices as I look forward to the day when I can put their results
to the test.
Best Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
right wing skins drilled on & leading edge strapped down
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
>
> I have seen some postings in archives re: Throttle Quadrants, thread
> seems
> to have died last spring. Has anyone been successful with a quadrant
> on the R V6?
There's a fellow in our chapter who mounted a quadrant in his -six, got
it from Van's IIRC.
He is a smaller man, though, and I think it would be a problem for us
6-footers.
Another fellow on the list has mounted his throttle on a sub-panel on
the left - sounds like a good way to go, and trying on local -sixes
confirms that placement is handy for the left hand yet unobtrusive.
Something to consider.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Attitude indicators |
Yes to the idea of shuting off the vacuum. A shutoff valve reachable
under the panel has been used successfully.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
I think the wig-wags really call attention to you for aircraft on the
ground too. Great to let them know you are on short final when they
want to pull out and takeoff. Runway incursion problems can end up
serious. I can't tell you how many times tower has said to hold short
for the traffic on a mile final and I couldn't see them vs. the wagger
that really stands out when 5 miles out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ammeter Sensor Location |
In a message dated 2/3/00 10:36:08 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv8er(at)home.com
writes:
<< I have the uMonitor ammeter sensor that a 2 gauge wire goes through. Is
there a preferred location for this sensor? Does it matter where in the
stream of electrons that this goes? >>
IMO put it in the B lead coming from the alternator and it will measure total
current draw of battery (plus anything on the battery bus) and all other
consumers on the main bus. My inductive pickup (for VM1000) is on the cabin
side of the firewall and has this 8 AWG B lead going thru a grommet and s/s
shield equipped hole in the f/w.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Salvage Aircraft |
Mark you might want to check up here in Alaska. Three nights ago we had 136
MPH winds. The losses were as follows. 12 aircraft destroyed Lake Hood
(PALH), 7 Aircraft destroyed Merrill Field (PAMR), 17 Aircraft destroyed at
Birchwood (PABV).
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2000 2:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Salvage Aircraft
Listers,
Has anyone out there purchased a salvage aircraft (like a wind-damaged
172, Warrior, Mooney, etc.) to use for parts for an RV? I am thinking if
I could get something for a good price, and use the engine, most
instruments, radios, antennas, strobes, N-number, etc, etc....then sell
the remaining airframe for scrap, it might be an inexpensive way to get a
lot of good equipment.
Several problems that come to mind are transporting the wreck from
wherever it's located; where to put it when it arrives ( I have limited
workspace); and where to acquire a wreck in the first place. Anybody
know where to buy something like this and have any idea how much it would
cost (ballpark figure) to buy something like a wrecked 20-year old
Warrior with good mid-time O-320 in it?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
RV-8A Left Wing Tank
Cedar Rapids, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
Some instructors on out field won't instruct in a side-be-side aircraft (rv-6)
with a left mounted throttle quadrant...they can't reach the throttle. The
Ralley I flew had a set of small bellcranks that accepted inputs from two
throttle quadrants and one output to the engine area. Sorta like the bellcrank
on the aileron(s)...I also saw a rv-6 at Oshgosh two years ago that had two
throttle quadrants & I assume one bellcrank(s) assembly to feed control to the
engine area.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
Hi John:
Have a quadrant mounted on the left side of my RV 6 and a picture is
available.
Eustace Bowhay
----------
> From: John Harris <johnh(at)bellsouth.net>
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Throttle Quadrants
> Date: Thursday, February 03, 2000 7:58 AM
>
>
> I have seen some postings in archives re: Throttle Quadrants
>
> John Harris>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
> snipped
> 2) I believe that wingtip strobes (which I intend to install) are more
> attention-getting than landing lights, as well as being visible from almost
> any direction, as opposed to the landing light only being visible from
> directly head-on. Granted, when you are head-on you can use all the
> opportunites for increased visibility possible.
Ken,
A You can omit cutting holes in your leading edges, yet still add landing
lights. Another option is to place your landing lights in the wing tips. RMD is
very popular.
RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING (BOB DEBORDE) 503-628-6056
These lights combined with the wig-wag option, will give you increased visibility
to the sides as well as the front. They also streamline the wing tips as all
lighting is internally contained, if desired.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
In a message dated 2/4/2000 12:21:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com writes:
> Ken, FWIW, I too have the Duckworks lights, one for landing, one for taxi,
> and without the glass lens and plastic housing they are very light. Since
> you
> are cutting out a large piece of .025" al. I don't really think there is
> much
> net increase, not including the wiring, relays/switches/breakers in this
> line
> of thought obviously. I do agree with all the other posts that advocate
> maximum visibility in the pattern, especially for that clown that likes to
> make straight-in approches without regard for the rest of us. maybe the
> wig-wags will make him think I'm a "heavy" closing on him. Andy Johnson,
-8
> right wing in the jig.
Hi Andy,
I am giving serious consideration to retaining the lights and adding the
wig-wag flasher to increase their effect. I'll let you know what I finally
decide.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mbl10255(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
I am in favor of flashing landing lights. They work. I fly a Cessna 182RG
in circles doing law enforcement work. We have the flashing landing lights
in the nose. After many (more than 3000) hours of dodging airliners in high
density areas and experimenting with the lights on, off, and on flashing, it
is my experience that the other guy sees you much better with the flashing
lights.
Besides, if you ever get caught out at night and have an engine failure, you
can alway wait till you are on short final, turn on the landing lights, and
if you don't like what you see, turn them off.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Landing lights in the pattern |
| From: | Johnny Johnson <johnnypaj(at)juno.com> |
My 2-cents worth: IMHO the main reason for landing lites in the pattern
is for the benefit of those on the ground--controllers, someone waiting
for takeoff, etc.--because of the limited "cone of visibility" a light
buried in the wing has. Around the airport it can't hurt and if you have
'em, sure--turn them on... but to install them for that purpose... well,
I think that's getting a little carried away.
FWIW, I would rather have a D-section with no cut in it than to have
landing lights on a day VFR plane, even if I did think an occasional
night landing would occur. Eyes out of the cockpit are the best safety
measure--even tho we're convinced our RV's go the speed of heat, closure
rates are low enough (even head-on) for see-and-avoid. And you CAN land
an RV without landing lites on a dark night if necessary... please don't
ask...
Just one guy's opinion--at odds with most responses so far, but that's
how life is sometimes... I have my asbestos shorts on, so flame away...
:=))
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
In a message dated 2/4/2000 8:52:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bdimeo(at)mediaone.net writes:
> Ken,
>
>
> Let me make this one observation.
>
> I do a lot of training at the Nashua airport. It's arguably the busiest
GA
> airport in the Northeast. On a busy day we can have a pattern that has both
> right and left traffic simultaneously with a mix of trainers, high
> performance singles, twins (I usually am training in one of these) and jet
> traffic. There are days where the final stretches four miles and with six
> planes. One of the things I try to do is stay ahead of the controller in
> anticipating when I can get onto the runway for take off so we don't add to
> the already long delays.
>
> Trying to find aircraft on final is the toughest part of this because
they
> provide the smallest visual signature. (Remember that runway incursions is
a
> hot button for the FAA? That's due in some part in not seeing the incoming
> traffic on final.) When they have their landing lights on, I can
immediately
> pick the traffic up. Without the lights I sometimes have to search. The
> smaller the plane the harder to find. Strobes don't help as much in the
> daytime as you might suspect. The Landing lights are a bigger spot to look
> at. When I'm in the pattern it's always "lights on on final" as well as
> "Cabin heater off" and GUMPS.
>
> Enough, I've got to get to work or this thing will never get built!
>
> Bob
> RV8#423
> TRYING to get the wings finished this month.
Hi Bob,
Thanks for your thoughts on the matter. I've been flying for years out of
BED, which gets my vote for busiest GA airport in the Northeast, though I
certainly agree that ASH can have its exciting moments. :-)
Your point about landing lights on final helping to avoid runway incursions
is very well taken and is probably the single most convincing argument I've
so far heard in favor of my retaining the lights. In fact, I've decided to
keep them, though it's still up for grabs whether it'll be the Duckworks
leading edge kit or one of the faired in wingtip varieties. Perhaps the RMD?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
right wing skins all drilled on, beginning the dreaded tank...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
In a message dated 2/4/2000 1:49:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net writes:
> Ken,
> A You can omit cutting holes in your leading edges, yet still add
landing
> lights. Another option is to place your landing lights in the wing tips.
RMD
> is
> very popular.
> RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING (BOB DEBORDE) 503-628-6056
> These lights combined with the wig-wag option, will give you increased
> visibility
> to the sides as well as the front. They also streamline the wing tips as
all
> lighting is internally contained, if desired.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8
Hi Charlie,
The faired-in wingtip lights are beginning to look very attractive to me.
With the lights in the wingtips, will I need to put the aft-facing white
light in the tail? I was planning on putting the Whelen A600 (which include
an aft-facing white light) lights on the exterior of the wingtips and made no
provision for wiring in my empennage.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
Not sure if you guys who are propagating the thread on throttle quads are
interested in just getting the throttle in a more "conventional" place for
the left seater for a stick-flown airplane, or just prefer the look/feel of
it over the push-pull, panel mounted throttle.
Regardless, here are a few comments. First of all, it's your airplane so
have at it. I would personally consider standardization in my plans but
that's me. I agree that anyone who's got real stick time, would likely
prefer the throttle in his left hand. The last time I flew a side-by-side
with a stick, it felt much better sitting in the right seat! As a CFI, I
spend most of my time in the right seat anyway, so I didn't have any of the
other "adjustments" to get used to. Bottom line is however, you can get used
to anything. I personally never really cared much for the push-pull throttle
knobs. I've always thought the Piper-type throttle quadrant has a nice look
and a good feel (from either seat!) Haven't seen one in a -6, but you might
consider it.
Regards,
-Don
RV-8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
Ken, with the RMD's & the A600's there is no legal requirement to have a light
in the tail. The white light on the rear of the A600 accomplishes
that....(twice-on left & right). I have cut off the cheesy rear rudder F/G light
spot & glassed it smooth. My only negative comment is on the finish work
required to fit the RMD's. They are very nice units but it took tripple the time
I guesstimated. Hell, everything takes/took tripple the time I estimated so on
reconsideration the RMD's took no exrta work ( follow that logic ?)
Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 02/04/2000 02:29:51 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: FS: landing lights
In a message dated 2/4/2000 1:49:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net writes:
> Ken,
> A You can omit cutting holes in your leading edges, yet still add
landing
> lights. Another option is to place your landing lights in the wing tips.
RMD
> is
> very popular.
> RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING (BOB DEBORDE) 503-628-6056
> These lights combined with the wig-wag option, will give you increased
> visibility
> to the sides as well as the front. They also streamline the wing tips as
all
> lighting is internally contained, if desired.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8
Hi Charlie,
The faired-in wingtip lights are beginning to look very attractive to me.
With the lights in the wingtips, will I need to put the aft-facing white
light in the tail? I was planning on putting the Whelen A600 (which include
an aft-facing white light) lights on the exterior of the wingtips and made no
provision for wiring in my empennage.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage Aircraft |
> > Has anyone out there purchased a salvage aircraft
> (like a wind-damaged
> > 172, Warrior, Mooney, etc.) to use for parts for
> an RV?
In 1989, I purchased a wrecked Tri-Pacer fuselage
(minus wings and avionics) for $2,600 U.S. Sold
instrumets and misc for $300 cash. Traced everything
I did not want for $900 worth of engine parts.
I then REBUILT the engine to new specs. Only other
parts I used was vacuum regulator and tail light.
When I purchased the engine, I knew it had a prop
strike and may not be worth anything. Was a risk I
was willing to take.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FS: landing lights |
Pictures of the RMD kit and installation on an RV4 can be seen here:
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/ideas.htm#RMD
Mike Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
> Ken,
> A You can omit cutting holes in your leading edges, yet still add
landing
> lights. Another option is to place your landing lights in the wing tips.
RMD is
> very popular.
> RMD AIRCRAFT LIGHTING (BOB DEBORDE) 503-628-6056
> These lights combined with the wig-wag option, will give you increased
visibility
> to the sides as well as the front. They also streamline the wing tips as
all
> lighting is internally contained, if desired.
> Charlie Kuss
> RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator attachment |
I did a trial fit of the left elevator but have not drilled or attached the
elevator horn to the center bearing on the HS. I only get about 18 deg
of "down elevator" travel before the horn makes contact with the HS spar.
Is this what others are getting? The manual and plans,at this point, oesn't
give much information on this.
Can anyone share the technique they used to drill and attach the elevator
horns to the middle HS 411 bearing? At what point do you drill and attach
these pieces and how do you measure and drill this piece accurately.
Mike Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing lights in the pattern |
In a message dated 2/4/00 1:25:39 PM Central Standard Time,
johnnypaj(at)juno.com writes:
<< I would rather have a D-section with no cut in it than to have
landing lights on a day VFR plane, >>
Johnny Johnson, please explain your concern for installing in the leading
edge......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dustin Norlund <dustin(at)busprod.com> |
| Subject: | Autopilot in place of attitude indicators |
>From: "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Attitude indicators
> Ive had several RVers recommend the installation of a Navaid single
axis
>A/P for my day VFR RV. If you find yourself needing to make the 180
turn,
>engage the A/P, hands off the controls and dial the turn in on the A/P.
I
>havent tried it but it makes sense and sounds safer than attempting to
do
>it using a T and B or turn coordinator. Probably also would get more
>utility out of the A/P .
>Mike Wills
Just a thought from the part 121 operations engineering side. Using the
autopilot may be a good idea if you need to make a turn out of bad wxr,
if the AP works properly. I know we (RVers) do not operate under part
121 regs but 121 has some good LLM (lower landing minima) regulations.
One of the things stated by AC120-28D is that any system critical to a
CAT II or CAT II approaches must be exercised on a set basis. This is
basically a functional test to find latent faults. If you are going to
stick with VFR instruments and use an autopilot for a low visibility
turn to safety you might want to add a test of the AP to each flight,
preferably at the start of the flight. Thus you have a better chance of
catching a problem with it before you are turning?? in poor visibility.
Just a thought for safety, not a crack at the idea.
Dustin Norlund
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Another neat idea and How To. |
They're coming fast and furious...Another easy to do idea!
AAMR/AirCore Wire
Marker http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page94.html
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage Aircraft |
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> Several problems that come to mind are transporting the wreck from
> wherever it's located; where to put it when it arrives ( I have limited
> workspace); and where to acquire a wreck in the first place.
One additional problem... you need to know what you're buying and
whether its going to be useful. For example, I was told that the
O320-E2D was commonly fitted to 172s, consequently has no fuel pump,
can't (easily) be upgraded from 150hp to 160hp, and would be difficult
to fit to an RV-6. (I don't know how true any of this is -- I just
mention it as an example). You really need to check the specific parts
out with someone knowledgeable before buying any wreck.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More RV8 flight info (long) |
Nice write-up Brian. You're getting as eloquent as Buster. Thanks for
taking it easy on those 'poor' Pitts drivers. Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZF
reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost,
fuselage interior and wiring.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: More RV8 flight info (long)
> The flight today was a short hop up to Moriarty to visit friends at their
> hangar. They were also being visited by two guys, each with a Pitt's...one
> an S-1S and the other an S-2B. We flew back home in formation into the
> setting sun...a turquoise, pink and red expanse of grandeur that can only
be
> appreciated properly in an RV. The Pitt's guys had to look through a
forrest
> of struts and wires. Pity the poor Pitt's driver. I only wish I had that
> climb and roll rate! OK, so I want one...I admit it. After crossing the
> jagged peak of the 10,000' Sandia mountains, I said "adios" to the Pitts
> drivers as they dropped down into their airport pattern. I continued on
into
> the syrupy smooth evening air, engine droning along with fresh oil in it's
> veins, courtesy of Aeroshell and a couple hours of my time this morning.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6bldr(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage Aircraft |
I have a 0-320E2D converted to 160HP and came stock with a mechanical
fuel pump. Great engine for RV's. The Cessna engine that normally
doesn't have a fuel pump and needs the engine mount modified is the
0-320H2AD. Some builders have used this engine and use two electric
fuel pumps with a small emergency backup battery for the extra fuel
pump. You also have to build little bumps on the cowl to clear
portrusions on top of the engine. Vans carries the modified engine
mount. Sometimes you can get a good buy on these used engines since
they are not quite as desirable as other engines.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok RV6
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
>
> czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> > Several problems that come to mind are transporting the wreck from
> > wherever it's located; where to put it when it arrives ( I have limited
> > workspace); and where to acquire a wreck in the first place.
>
> One additional problem... you need to know what you're buying and
> whether its going to be useful. For example, I was told that the
> O320-E2D was commonly fitted to 172s, consequently has no fuel pump,
> can't (easily) be upgraded from 150hp to 160hp, and would be difficult
> to fit to an RV-6. (I don't know how true any of this is -- I just
> mention it as an example). You really need to check the specific parts
> out with someone knowledgeable before buying any wreck.
>
> Frank.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Landing/Taxi light aiming |
I have just bought a couple of high beam sealed halagen headlights for taxi
and landing lights. Before deciding how I am going to install them I have a
couple of questions.
1. With sealed halagen head lights (from standard US automobiles) do I need a
resistor in the circuit? If so what size for 55 watts?
2. With a tail dragging RV-6 what is the best angle to aim the taxi and
landing lights relative to flight level? Should the taxi light be aimed to
shine out a certain distance when in taxi stance? Should the landing light be
aimed higher (level?) for better approach visability? How well do they work
for you at night?
Thanks for the help.
Frank Smidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ammeter Sensor Location |
On 3 Feb 00, at 22:42, Paul Besing wrote:
> I have the uMonitor ammeter sensor that a 2 gauge wire goes through. Is
> there a preferred location for this sensor? Does it matter where in the
> stream of electrons that this goes?
My ammeter shunt is installed, as I recall, on the battery ouput (+)
circuit, after the master contactor. Positive ammeter indication means
battery is charging, negative indication means battery is discharging.
I think battery net charge/discharge is important information, more
important than total system current consumption for day to day
operations.
Bob Nuckolls discusses alternative locations in Aeroelectric
Connection.
Tim Lewis
25.1 hours
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing/Taxi light aiming |
>
>
>1. With sealed halagen head lights (from standard US automobiles) do I
need a
>resistor in the circuit? If so what size for 55 watts?
>
Assuming your airplane has a 12 volt system, you do not need a resistor as
automobiles are also 12 volt.
>2. With a tail dragging RV-6 what is the best angle to aim the taxi and
>landing lights relative to flight level? Should the taxi light be aimed to
>shine out a certain distance when in taxi stance? Should the landing light
be
>aimed higher (level?) for better approach visability? How well do they
work
>for you at night?
>
I have a light only on the left side of my RV-6, the reasoning being I can't
see to the right side anyway. I have it aimed for the taxi stance as that
is basically the landing stance. Until you get close to the ground not much
light is shining on the runway anyway and you are far enough away that the
beam width is pretty wide.
I was out a couple of nights ago and was noticing it works fine, considering
I can't see ahead very well, lights or no lights. It does have enough
scattered light to help with depth perception in the flare, and it does help
to keep you from hitting things while taxiing. My nightmare is a deer on
the runway. Don't think I would be able to see it in time.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
>
> I did a trial fit of the left elevator but have not drilled or attached
the
> elevator horn to the center bearing on the HS. I only get about 18
deg
> of "down elevator" travel before the horn makes contact with the HS
spar.
Mike, this is very typical. Many have to remove the sheet metal flange of
the hstab spar to allow enough down elevator. Be careful to not knick the
heavy spar bar.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ammeter Sensor Location |
...
>My ammeter shunt is installed, as I recall, on the battery ouput (+)
>circuit, after the master contactor. Positive ammeter indication means
>battery is charging, negative indication means battery is discharging.
Tim,
I know that you're using the Grand Rapids EIS-4000, as am I. Do you have a
separate ammeter, or have you found a way to get the EIS-4000 to measure
current? I've thought about trying a shunt connected to an aux input - is
this what you've done?
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.slinger.net/rv-6a/
West Bend, WI
RV6A-QB N-86CG, O-360 installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing/Taxi light aiming |
I agree with Larry. No resistor if 12v system.
You want the light to illuminate in front of the aircraft during normal
landing attitudes and taxi attitudes.
If the two are different on your plane then you need two lights with
different aims.
Incidentally, I design elkectronic headlamp aim equipment for cars both
after market and factory. Never thought about one for airplanes.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Friday, February 04, 2000 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing/Taxi light aiming
>
>
>>
>
>
>>
>>1. With sealed halagen head lights (from standard US automobiles) do I
>need a
>>resistor in the circuit? If so what size for 55 watts?
>>
>
>Assuming your airplane has a 12 volt system, you do not need a resistor as
>automobiles are also 12 volt.
>
>
>>2. With a tail dragging RV-6 what is the best angle to aim the taxi and
>>landing lights relative to flight level? Should the taxi light be aimed
to
>>shine out a certain distance when in taxi stance? Should the landing
light
>be
>>aimed higher (level?) for better approach visability? How well do they
>work
>>for you at night?
>>
>
>
>I have a light only on the left side of my RV-6, the reasoning being I
can't
>see to the right side anyway. I have it aimed for the taxi stance as that
>is basically the landing stance. Until you get close to the ground not
much
>light is shining on the runway anyway and you are far enough away that the
>beam width is pretty wide.
>
>I was out a couple of nights ago and was noticing it works fine,
considering
>I can't see ahead very well, lights or no lights. It does have enough
>scattered light to help with depth perception in the flare, and it does
help
>to keep you from hitting things while taxiing. My nightmare is a deer on
>the runway. Don't think I would be able to see it in time.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
Mike: I think if you check again you will find that the plans show notches
filed in the HS spar bottom flange to allow the elevator horns to go full
travel. It's been a couple of years since I finished my empennage and I
don't have perfect recall but that's what I did.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 ready for finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: D-section cutout--was Landing lights in the |
pattern
Bending moment is not the only issue. The D-section also provides a
lot of torsional stiffness, and a cutout reduces the torsional
stiffness of the wing somewhat. If I was intending to do unlimited
type acro I wouldn't want the landing light cutouts, but then I
wouldn't be building an RV-8 either.
I concluded that the RV service history has shown that landing light
cutouts in the outboard bays are acceptable, and I'm putting two in
my RV-8.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>The outboard bay of the wing has virtually NO bending moment on it. But
>the skin is still
>the same thickness isn't it? If this was a jetliner, the skin would
>(probably) be milled or
>chemically etched to a thinner thickness as you move progressively
>further outboard,
>primarily in order to save weight, and not squander it where not needed.
>But with a skin thickness
>as thin as W-601 that's hardly practical, is it?
>
>Chris
>
>Johnny Johnson wrote:
>>
>>
>> >
>> > In a message dated 2/4/00 1:25:39 PM Central Standard Time,
>> > johnnypaj(at)juno.com writes:
>> >
>> > << I would rather have a D-section with no cut in it than to have
>> > landing lights on a day VFR plane, >>
>> >
>> > Johnny Johnson, please explain your concern for installing in the
> > > leading edge......
>> >
>> The D-section of the wing is a major part of the wing's structure and is
>> responsible for a lot of the wing's rigidity--there are folks on this
>> list that can explain this much better than I. Cutting a big hole in
>> this member without fully replacing the strength thus removed gives me
>> pause when watching the G-meter climb... I understand that Van wants
>> landing lights installed in the outboard bay only (though many airplanes,
>> including mine, violate this). In essence, I guess you could say "if
>> you're gonna make it weaker, do it where it's least likely to cause a
> > failure".
>>
>
Kevin Horton RV-8 (working on landing gear boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Davis" <jd(at)lri.stjosephs.london.on.ca> |
| Subject: | looking for Telex TC-200 pinout |
Just wondering if anyone has documentation for the Telex
TC-200 intercom which I have "inherited", and would be
willing to photocopy/fax pertinent pages.
Regards, J.
CH701 C-IGGY: Flying, but usually snowed in...
| J. Davis | email: jd(at)uwo.ca |
| SysMgr, research programmer | voice: (519) 646 6100 x64166 |
| Lawson Research Institute | fax: (519) 646 6135 |
| London, Ontario | lriweb.stjosephs.london.on.ca/~jd |
I went to a restaurant that serves "breakfast at any time". So I ordered
French Toast during the Renaissance.
--- Steven Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring EGT &CHT |
Get it from RMI $36
>
>Someone posted, some time back, that he bought a prewired switch that could
>be used with the RMI Monitor for selecting CHT & EGT of each cylinder. Who
>put that out? Did it come with a quick connect of some kind between the
>panel wires and the engine wires?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (tom sargent) |
| Subject: | fire, exhaustleak detection |
An idea occurred to me the other day about detecting a fire or a
significant oil leak under the cowling. Granted, either one would make
itself known in various obvious ways pretty quickly, but even 15 seconds
early warning might be useful.
If there was hot oil spraying around, an exhaust leak, or a fire
under the cowling, the temperature of the cooling air exiting from the
cowling would have to rise, although, exactly how much is debatable. Using
thermocouples it would be pretty easy to rig a digital volt meter to show
the temperature differential between the OAT and the exit air temperature.
Even under normal operating conditions, this number might provide useful
info about overall engine efficiency.
Is this sort of thing ever done on commercial aircraft? Does any
one with more engineering knowledge than I have any sage advice on the
suggestion?
---
Tom Sargent, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbirdman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
January 30, 2000 - February 05, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hw