RV-Archive.digest.vol-hx
February 05, 2000 - February 11, 2000
Mark,
I didn't find it difficult to fly my 6 with left hand on stick, right on
throttle. Hadn't flown for 6 years while building, and with no taildragger
time, it took me 12 hours of dual to get checked out in my RV. Previous
experience was with 150, 172 and ultralites. You fly spam cans with left hand
all the time.
Gary Bray
Carmel, Maine
RV-6 60 hours so far.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fire, exhaustleak detection |
Tom,
International Electronics engine analyzer allows you to put temp probes on
the unused channels. We've used this for years within our halon fire
estinguisher system. This setup will also give you a red light warning that
can be set at any temp limitations.
TOM rv-8, IO540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
Glenn,
Boy, am I glad you made this post. Were in the same boat. I'm left handed
and I'm just finishing the wings on my 8AQ. I have spent more than a few
sleepless
nights trying to decide what to do about that left vs right hand throttle
question.
The old comfort vs resale value conundrum.
I too have decided to put the throttle on the right hand side. My
rationalization was the
same as yours. When I reflected on all the planes I have flown and how I have
always piloted the plane with my left ( good ) hand anyway it seemed like a
no-brainer.
If you run into any problems doing this I would be glad to hear about it.
Please keep us posted.
- Jim Andrews Austin, TX.
RV-8AQ Wings ( almost done )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Electrical Ideas anyone??? |
Hello Listers:
This is from AAMR/AirCo
re/MarineCore http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html
Got a great IDEA how to use an item we sell...Send it in.
If I use it you'll get a discount on your first order of 10%.
You'll find a E-mail link on our pages or send it to aamrelectr(at)aol.com.
Such an IDEA can be seen at AAMR/AirCore Wire Marker<
/A> htp://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page94.html
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Gyros
Joe,
I was doing a little hard drive house cleaning this afternoon. I stumbled upon
your post from last November regarding your Whelen power supplies (see below).
I
would like to know the model number and Joules rating of your power supply. I
ask this because this idea has been mentioned before. However, Gil (full of
great info) Alexander replied that the power supplies suggested were of inferior
power.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
>
> I bought my wing tip lights and power pack at sun and fun a few years ago.
> The power pack is the large whelen unit that powers both wingtip strobes
> from the one unit. I have it mounted under the floor in my four. About a
> year after I had bought it, I was in the basement of our headquarters
> building in the shop where the installed all the police equipment in new
> vehiles and I was looking at a light bar for the roof that someone was
> repairing and the power unit for the strobes was exactly the same unit I
> had. Same part number and everything. I checked their catalog, and the
> price was less that half what the Whelen aircraft catalog listed, and not
> much more than I paid for my unit used.
>
> The company in Yarmouth N.S. that made the light bar was a dealer and repair
> shop for the Whelen equipment, one of the owners of which was a pilot and
> offered to repair my power unit if I needed it in the future. I think if
> you used aircraft wingtip units and a power unit from one of these sources I
> think you would be ok.
>
> Joe Hine
> RV4 C-FYTQ
> >
> >Lately I have been posting about after market strobes that are for
> emergency
> >vehicles. There are numerous companies making strobe systems for Ploice,
> >Fire, and Ambulance vehicles for around 1/3 the cost of an approved Whelen
> >two strobe system. This list of Regs confirms what I had suspected, we are
> >being forced to use an approved system. What is bright enough for a few
> >hundred yards on a road is not bright enough to be seen from a few miles in
> >the sky. It would seem that we must use the expensive aviation strobes.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Norman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Debi VonDane" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate sources for Whelen strobe power supplies was Re: RV-List:Gyros |
Charlie...
I found an alternative PS for my Whelen strobes from Kuntzleman
electronics - http://www.kestrobes.com/page1/double12.htm. It's
output falls between the Whelen and AeroFlash units at 14 joules.
They quoted me $140 for the unit...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), Flaps
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Joe,
I was doing a little hard drive house cleaning this afternoon. I
stumbled upon
your post from last November regarding your Whelen power
supplies......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Salvage Aircraft |
I have an O320-E2D that came out of a cessna and it had no fuel pump.
Had to change the rear housing to add the fuel pump; however a machine
shop could mill the opening for a fuel pump.
"InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111" wrote:
>
>
> I have a 0-320E2D converted to 160HP and came stock with a mechanical
> fuel pump. Great engine for RV's. The Cessna engine that normally
> doesn't have a fuel pump and needs the engine mount modified is the
> 0-320H2AD. Some builders have used this engine and use two electric
> fuel pumps with a small emergency backup battery for the extra fuel
> pump. You also have to build little bumps on the cowl to clear
> portrusions on top of the engine. Vans carries the modified engine
> mount. Sometimes you can get a good buy on these used engines since
> they are not quite as desirable as other engines.
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok RV6
>
> Frank and Dorothy wrote:
> >
> >
> > czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> > > Several problems that come to mind are transporting the wreck from
> > > wherever it's located; where to put it when it arrives ( I have limited
> > > workspace); and where to acquire a wreck in the first place.
> >
> > One additional problem... you need to know what you're buying and
> > whether its going to be useful. For example, I was told that the
> > O320-E2D was commonly fitted to 172s, consequently has no fuel pump,
> > can't (easily) be upgraded from 150hp to 160hp, and would be difficult
> > to fit to an RV-6. (I don't know how true any of this is -- I just
> > mention it as an example). You really need to check the specific parts
> > out with someone knowledgeable before buying any wreck.
> >
> > Frank.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: selling rv aircraft |
In a message dated 2/5/2000 1:52:40 PM Central Standard Time,
willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< speaking of selling our rv,s, my question is why would
anyone in their right mind (not saying I am) go and
spend thousands of hours building their dream
airplane, fly it for 40 hours or so, and sell it? I
just don't see the logic in that. This airplane has
been my dream for years, and is now just coming to
fruition. And believe me when I say. When that magical
day comes, that the FAA has signed the a/c off, and it
is flying. I plan on doing just that, to fly the
airplane for a long time. It took years to build,(not
to mention the blood sweat and tears) and by God I am
gonna fly it for years to come. God willing. I've got
plans to see this great country from the "airborne
perspective" in my airplane, that I built, from pieces
of aluminum, that were just pieces of a puzzle, and
someday will be my masterpiece. Kinda like Vangough I
consider this an art, although it is my artwork. I am
proud of this piece of "art" and it is mine, and mine
alone, and although it is mine I want to share it with
other people in the form of rides, and give a little
back to the aviation community that I so proudly am a
member of. As you all may have guessed by now I am ate
up with aviation (it is my life after all.) I can
honestly say that everything that I have achieved in
this field has not come easy to me. And I have had to
fight for everything that I have accomplished. I envy
you guys who just slid into aviation as if it were
your birthright, I am sorry for the rambling but as
you can see this is my dream coming to light and it
pains me that people sell their dream. as for myself I
just can't do it. Forgive me if I have stepped on toes
I surely did not mean to but I just had to say what
was on my mind. Now to get back to the aileron see ya
later
Glenn Williams
8A wings
FT. WORTH, TEXAS
A&P MECH. >>
hmm,
maybe becasue some people like building more then flying. Or, just to get a
rise out of some pople i have to say this. They are envious of us F-1
rockets builders and want to be like this.
Seriously though people run into finacial problems and other thingslike that
and it can cause you to sell your airplane regards less of the kind
Chris Wilcox
Oshkosh, WI
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
>
>"I agree that anyone who's got real stick time, would likely
>prefer the throttle in his left hand."
>
>A question for RV-6/-6A pilots--
>
>Did it take a long time to get used to flying with the stick in your
>left hand? Does it feel that different from the traditional yoke in
>most spam cans?
>
Before my RV-6 all my stick time was in gliders, right hand, 800 hours. The
THOUGHT of the stick in the left hand was awkward but the first time I flew
a six, with Mike Seager, I didn't have time to give it a thought and haven't
given it a thought since. It is easy to adjust!
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
Nope, nothing on my plans (1997 vintage) shows any notches for the cutout.
Also, there is no mention, at this point, on what the maximum deflection up
on down should be.
I'll check around the archieves for some more comments.
Thanks
Mike Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
> Mike: I think if you check again you will find that the plans show
notches
> filed in the HS spar bottom flange to allow the elevator horns to go full
> travel. It's been a couple of years since I finished my empennage and I
> don't have perfect recall but that's what I did.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 ready for finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jordan Grant <Jordan.Grant(at)att.worldnet.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Ribs Backwards |
RV Listers -
I think that I have actually figured out an entirely new way to
screw up building the ailerons. After rivetting the first set of skins
on my
first wing, I went to start mounting up my aileron and discovered that I
had put the ribs in backwards, i.e. the inboard rib on the outboard side
and vice versa. It was quite obvious because the tooling holes did not
line up with the chord line on the wing. After searching the
archives, I decided I must have been the first to make this particular
goof. (fortunately, the left side aileron is OK)
I have been wavering back and forth on whether or not to
re-build the aileron, or try to mount it up as-is. Any thoughts from you
all?
-Jordan Grant
Finished with UPT and now have more time to build!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
My case was similar with Larry's. Most of my time was in Cessna's prior to
my -6. I also had some time in gliders and some in Military jets. It was
easy to get used to. I was too busy to even think twice about it.
N985VU
Maryland
>
>
>>
>>"I agree that anyone who's got real stick time, would likely
>>prefer the throttle in his left hand."
>>
>>A question for RV-6/-6A pilots--
>>
>>Did it take a long time to get used to flying with the stick in your
>>left hand? Does it feel that different from the traditional yoke in
>>most spam cans?
>>
>
>
>Before my RV-6 all my stick time was in gliders, right hand, 800 hours. The
>THOUGHT of the stick in the left hand was awkward but the first time I flew
>a six, with Mike Seager, I didn't have time to give it a thought and haven't
>given it a thought since. It is easy to adjust!
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
Mike Nellis wrote:
> Also, there is no mention, at this point, on what the maximum deflection up
> on down should be.
The fuselage notes give this information (35 down and 25 up, perhaps? --
I don't have my notes with me here) under the Emp. Attachment section.
Note that the L & R horns probably don't align exactly with each other,
so you may need to cut out more flange in one place than the other.
I haven't figured out an easy and cheap way to measure the deflection
angle yet (easy way would be to use a smart level or similar, but
they're not cheap).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Dude;
Flew mine out to the coast the other day and saw a
bunch of whales, landed at a couple of cool beachfront
airports and generally made a nuisance of myself.
NoCal has alot to see and do especially if you have an
airplane. Every airport it seems has a cafe with
decent grub. Alot of RV's out there too. I'm in Bama
this weekend flying the viper...
BJRB
--- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> Maj, AF/XOOT"
>
> Not yet Dude. I haven't even been down to my
> beloved -4 in four weeks.
> I've been stuck up here, mostly stuck in SNOW. Keep
> it flying Smokey...I'm
> jealous!
>
> Jj
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 1:53 PM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> It's a small hole, not too expensive....Just don't
> use
> the word Nee. How's life at the puzzle palace? I
> have
> been digging Southwest and flying up and down the
> Northen Cal coast. Alot of neat places to go out
> here.
> I still go back to Bama to fly the viper, but that's
> getting old real fast. I guess I'm spoiled. You get
> your cowling fixed?
>
> Smokey
>
> --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > Another question one could ask is what happens to
> > the structural integrity
> > of the roll bar with a rather large hole drilled
> > through it supporting the
> > pin?
> >
> > Of course, as my old instructor used to say, "At
> > this point your luck has
> > been quite miserable. What makes you think it's
> > about to change. S---
> > happens!"
> >
> > Jj
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:16 PM
> > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> >
> >
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> >
> > Rion;'
> >
> >
> > I'll try to take a photo for you. First, several
> > egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
> > presented in the RV4. I have been flying the F-16
> > for
> > 12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the
> -4
> > except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the rear
> > and
> > is electrically raised and lowered. It is
> > explosively
> > jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
> > automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
> > recommends ejection over "riding out" an off
> runway
> > excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main gear
> > failure and flipped over, trapping him for three
> > hours
> > until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the
> > THREE
> > inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and
> free
> > him. A fire would have made a different ending to
> > the
> > story.
> > As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary
> RV3
> > pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff
> putting
> > him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a
> sliding
> > canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted
> the
> > airplane. He was so humbled by the experience that
> > he
> > redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable,
> installed
> > a
> > BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield again.
> > With
> > 500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say that
> if
> > anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
> > otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up, I
> > am
> > jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
> > locking pin, you simply reach over your left
> > shoulder,
> > pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the canopy.
> > In
> > normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply
> pull
> > the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and slide
> > the
> > pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a tear
> > away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel with
> > aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I
> need
> > to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when
> > it's
> > shut, it won't blow open.
> >
> > Rob
> >
> > --- RION BOURGEOIS wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION BOURGEOIS"
> > >
> > >
> > > Sounds neat and simple. However, if the pin
> > slides
> > > backwards over the
> > > canopy bulkhead, how do rescuers open the canopy
> > to
> > > get you out? Got
> > > pictures? Rion
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:45 PM
> > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi J;
> > > >
> > > > I used a pin from the nautilus weight room
> > that
> > > > holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a
> hole
> > > in my
> > > > roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a
> point
> > on
> > > the
> > > > entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches
> > > "above
> > > > the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic
> > bushings
> > > in
> > > > the hole in the roll bar just like the ones
> for
> > > the
> > > > rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could
> put
> > a
> > > > small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the
> > end.
> > > Now
> > > > I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy
> > > bulkhead
> > > > on the ground and pull it back when I shut the
> > > canopy.
> > > > It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The
> cool
> > > part
> > > > is when the canopy is down, the pin slides
> > > backwards
> > > > OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing
> opening
> > if
> > > the
> > > > canopy lock should fail. See ya.
> > > >
> > > > Rob Ray
> > > > smokyray(at)yahoo.com
> > > > --- "J. Rion Bourgeois"
>
> > > wrote:
> > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion
> > > Bourgeois"
> > > > >
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket exhaust systems was Re: Engines-List: RE: (I)O-360 |
Overhaul;
Possibilities
Vaso
Thanks for the quick reply. I just did a search for Sky Dynamics. They have a
new web site at:
http://www.skydynamics.com/
I'd like to comment on Power Flow Systems horsepower increase claims. They
claim 15-25%, with the Cessna 172 showing the most impressive gains. Using a 150
HP O-320 Lycoming, the dyno shows that the Cessna exhaust (mostly the muffler)
is so restrictive, that stock horsepower is reduced to 133 HP. This is a
reduction of 17 HP over the Lycoming with a neutral (or whatever exhaust system
Lycoming did THEIR tests with) exhaust system.
The PFS exhaust increased HP to 157 HP. They are using a glass packed straight
through muffler. This has MUCH less internal resistance than the conventional
muffler that Cessna uses. This is how they gain back most of the lost HP. The
TRUE horsepower gain is the additional 7 HP gained over the stock Lycoming.
Seven horsepower gain on a 150 horsepower engine is nothing to sneeze at, mind
you. It is ~5% gain.
An RV with a High Country exhaust system will not lose 17 HP like the Cessna
system does. Your TRUE gain will be a more realistic 7 HP. I noticed in PFS's
literature that they charge almost $2,800 for an exhaust system for those
certified ships. Have you asked them for a price quote for your GlaStar? Sky
Dynamics 4 into 1 systems seem to range from $920-$1250. The Sky Dynamics
exhaust for my RV sells for $1,024.
You have to read the articles carefully to be sure you are comparing apples to
apples.
Charlie Kuss
> Charlie:
>
> I've repeated my original posting below. The company claiming large
> horsepower increases with their exhaust is Power Flow Systems
> http://www.powerflowsystems.com/. See especially the page on dyno testing.
> I understand Sky Dynamics actually makes the exhaust for Power Flow Systems,
> but don't quote me on that...
>
> -Vaso
>
> _______________________________________________________
>
> >Vaso
> I've deleted your repost of the questions you had regarding how to rebuild
> your
> engine. Could you please tell me the name of the exhaust system company you
> referred to in that post? Do you have any more info (web site??) on this
> company
> or their products?
> snipped
> *31 Install Maxi-Sump ? SkyDynamics sells this low-weight
> (magnesium) sump and cold air induction system that claims to
> reduce weight by 10lb+, and increases horsepower on an IO-360.
> Cost is $2K+.
> *32 Tuned exhaust ? Power Flow Systems (PFS) claims an
> eyebrow-raising 10-15% increase in effective power output from a
> Lycoming O-320. Lycon says they verified this power increase on
> their test cell. The PFS exhaust is expensive - ~$2K+.
> snipped
> Comments on any of the above points welcomed.
> Vaso
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Ribs Backwards |
>
>RV Listers -
> I think that I have actually figured out an entirely new way to
>screw up building the ailerons. After rivetting the first set of skins
>on my
>first wing, I went to start mounting up my aileron and discovered that I
>had put the ribs in backwards, i.e. the inboard rib on the outboard side
>and vice versa. It was quite obvious because the tooling holes did not
>line up with the chord line on the wing. After searching the
>archives, I decided I must have been the first to make this particular
>goof. (fortunately, the left side aileron is OK)
> I have been wavering back and forth on whether or not to
>re-build the aileron, or try to mount it up as-is. Any thoughts from you
>all?
>
>-Jordan Grant
Jordan,
This is a tough one. Your left and right ailerons now have a
different shape. This will likely degrade the lateral handling
qualities somewhat, although it is hard to predict how much, and in
what way.
Possible effects include:
lateral trim that changes with speed and angle of attack',
different left and right roll rates for the same stick force,
different left and right roll rates (prop aircraft have this problem
anyway), and
slightly different flutter modes and flutter speed (I'm guessing on this one).
The excellent handling of the RV series is probably one of the big
reasons why you chose to build one. If it was me, I wouldn't want to
take the risk that I may have degraded the handling. I would figure
out which parts can be salvaged, order some new parts, and plan on
rebuilding the offending aileron. If you are too bummed out to face
working on it now, you could easily save it for something to do if
you ever get stuck between kits, or waiting for an engine, etc. You
will find that your skill level improves such that this task will
take you less time the later in the project that you do it.
Hang in there,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
Hmmmmmmm.... I plan on doing a little formation (i.e. A LOT) of formation, and
I am somewhat concerned about this issue. If I'm flying single-ship I would
agree with the statement below, but in a close formation, the finesse required
can be quite high. I personnaly don't worry about the dexterity required to
change the radio, but in fingertip or eschelon, pulling G's, or heaven forbid,
in the weather, I'd like not to be bobbling about out there. Plus, there's the
added aspect of not wanting to look like a "ham fist" on the wing. So are there
any -6 drivers out there that regularly do a little formating, that have spent
most of their time prior to the RV with the stick in their right hand? And if
so, am I being a little too anal about this aspect of the building too?
Thanks,
Keith Hughes
RV-6, Flaps
Parker, CO
lucky macy wrote:
> Usually you are not
> doing much which requires a lot of dexterity with the stick itself and the
> left hand can handle that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
>
>
> "I agree that anyone who's got real stick time,
> would likely
> prefer the throttle in his left hand."
>
> A question for RV-6/-6A pilots--
>
> Did it take a long time to get used to flying with
> the stick in your
> left hand? Does it feel that different from the
> traditional yoke in
> most spam cans?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Irvine, CA
> RV-9A tail kit
Well I disagree. I consider my 50+ hours Citabria
time as real stick time.
No problem hoping in the RV-6. Felt very natural
right from the start. I have my throttle in the
middle on my RV-6. I can and have flown my RV-6 from
the right seat with throttle in the middle of the
aircraft and throttle, prop, mixture in the left hand.
I am not as smooth in that position but have about
10-15 hours in the right seat of my RV-6.
The stick in the LEFT hand feels more natural than the
yoke in the left hand.
If someone wants the throttle on the opposite side
from what everyone else wants, it can always be moved
if the aircraft is sold. Should not be a big deal to
install in such a way that it could be relocated
later.
I encourage everyone to put their throttle, prop,
mixture, alternate air (carb heat) controls all for
use with the same hand. (the one that is not on the
stick)
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Ribs Backwards |
Jordan,
I can't help you with the aileron problem, but as a former T-38 IP, let me say
that I am impressed as hell that you are able to complete UPT AND work on a
project of this magnitude!! I was barely able to feed myself! Congrats on
graduation. Fly Safe.
Keith Hughes
RV-6, Flaps
Parker, CO
PS. If you want to feel better about your ailerons, I'll send you a picture of
the wonderful dent I put on the TOP of my left aileron, where I back-riveted a
stiffener off the plate!!!!!! Ouch!
Jordan Grant wrote:
> -Jordan Grant
> Finished with UPT and now have more time to build!!!
>
> _-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
An easy and inexpensive way to measure elevator, flap and aileron deflection
angles is to get a Craftsman (or other brand) angle measuring device...they
have a "floating" indicator...you can place it on any surface, note the
indicated angle, then move the surface to its stops, again note the angle
indication. Subtract the smaller from the larger indication, and instant
answer! I think Wal-Mart has them for around $9 and Craftsman for a bit
more...I used tape, folded back on itself so two sides were sticky to
temporarily stick it on the surfaces I was measureing....double sided carpet
tape would work well also. FWIW
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
In hopes of shaving off a-couple of pounds I was thinking of using a
Odyssey PC-680 (available locally) battery. My original plan was to use the
Concorde RG-25XC. Did not really get a clear answer in the archives:
Question anyone with practical experience with both batteries? My man
concern is cranking power for a IO-360 (200hp) engine especially when hot.
My electric loads are modest...VHF comm, high pressure fuel boost pump,
digital tach......and 10' of tefzel #2 wire to the starter (Skytec 149-LS).
Before I go spend my $100 and modify the tray I would like to know if this
small batt is up to the job and if flown regularly last two years?
THX
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftermarket exhaust systems was Re: Engines-List: RE: (I)O-360 |
Overhaul; Possibilities
I just put on my SkyDynamics 4-1. It fit perfect....and they built it from
some rough drawings I sent them. Do not have to worry about loss of power
from the mufflers as there are none...and 4-1 is quieter then a X-over. I
highly recommend the SkyDynamics products however order well ahead of time.
They are busy and it takes awhile to get your exhaust.
Chris
----------
> From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
> To: vaso(at)bovan.com; engines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Aftermarket exhaust systems was Re: Engines-List: RE:
(I)O-360 Overhaul; Possibilities
> Date: Saturday, February 05, 2000 5:15 PM
>
>
> Vaso
> Thanks for the quick reply. I just did a search for Sky Dynamics. They
have a
> new web site at:
> http://www.skydynamics.com/
> I'd like to comment on Power Flow Systems horsepower increase claims.
They
> claim 15-25%, with the Cessna 172 showing the most impressive gains.
Using a 150
> HP O-320 Lycoming, the dyno shows that the Cessna exhaust (mostly the
muffler)
> is so restrictive, that stock horsepower is reduced to 133 HP. This is a
> reduction of 17 HP over the Lycoming with a neutral (or whatever exhaust
system
> Lycoming did THEIR tests with) exhaust system.
> The PFS exhaust increased HP to 157 HP. They are using a glass packed
straight
> through muffler. This has MUCH less internal resistance than the
conventional
> muffler that Cessna uses. This is how they gain back most of the lost HP.
The
> TRUE horsepower gain is the additional 7 HP gained over the stock
Lycoming.
> Seven horsepower gain on a 150 horsepower engine is nothing to sneeze at,
mind
> you. It is ~5% gain.
> An RV with a High Country exhaust system will not lose 17 HP like the
Cessna
> system does. Your TRUE gain will be a more realistic 7 HP. I noticed in
PFS's
> literature that they charge almost $2,800 for an exhaust system for those
> certified ships. Have you asked them for a price quote for your GlaStar?
Sky
> Dynamics 4 into 1 systems seem to range from $920-$1250. The Sky Dynamics
> exhaust for my RV sells for $1,024.
> You have to read the articles carefully to be sure you are comparing
apples to
> apples.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> > Charlie:
> >
> > I've repeated my original posting below. The company claiming large
> > horsepower increases with their exhaust is Power Flow Systems
> > http://www.powerflowsystems.com/. See especially the page on dyno
testing.
> > I understand Sky Dynamics actually makes the exhaust for Power Flow
Systems,
> > but don't quote me on that...
> >
> > -Vaso
> >
> > _______________________________________________________
> >
> > >Vaso
> > I've deleted your repost of the questions you had regarding how to
rebuild
> > your
> > engine. Could you please tell me the name of the exhaust system company
you
> > referred to in that post? Do you have any more info (web site??) on
this
> > company
> > or their products?
> > snipped
> > *31 Install Maxi-Sump ? SkyDynamics sells this low-weight
> > (magnesium) sump and cold air induction system that claims to
> > reduce weight by 10lb+, and increases horsepower on an IO-360.
> > Cost is $2K+.
> > *32 Tuned exhaust ? Power Flow Systems (PFS) claims an
> > eyebrow-raising 10-15% increase in effective power output from a
> > Lycoming O-320. Lycon says they verified this power increase on
> > their test cell. The PFS exhaust is expensive - ~$2K+.
> > snipped
> > Comments on any of the above points welcomed.
> > Vaso
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Texas Independence Day |
Listers,
This is for the Texas listers, but anyone else who would like to
participate are welcomed to join us.
Stu McCurdy
--------------------------------
Celebrate Texas Logo
Our Purpose: To encourage and promote the education of the general
public regarding Texas Independence Day and the history of Texas and its
people.
Celebrate Texas Aviation Flyover
So that Texas aviation is represented during Texas Independence Day,
there will be a flyover of the Texas Capital to accompany the land
parade up Congress Avenue on Thursday, March 2, 2000. Aircraft will be
grouped by speed capability and separated by altitude. All types of
aircraft are invited to participate.
0800, Mar 2, Pancake Breakfast at the CAF Hangar, San Marcos Muni
0930, Mar 2, Briefing at CAF Hangar. Must attend to participate
1100-1130, Sequenced takeoffs from San Marcos Muni
Approx 1200 Flyover
Land at Georgetown Muni for debriefing and lunch at Currey Aviation
Sign up with Stu McCurdy at 512-388-7399 or sturdy(at)att.net
Celebrate Texas Aviation Trail Ride
As a lead-in to the Flyover and to provide Texas Independence Day
publicity, there will be a 4-day Aviation Trail Ride around the State of
Texas from Feb 27 to Mar 1, 2000.
Feb 26, Marshall at Lone Star Flight Museum, Scholes Field, Galveston
Feb 27, Depart Galveston, arrive Addison, lunch at Cavanaugh Flight
Museum, depart Addison, arrive Abilene Regional for RON.
Feb 28, Depart Abilene, arrive Midland Intl, lunch at CAF Museum,
depart Midland, arrive Marfa Muni for RON.
Feb 29, Depart Marfa for Big Bend, arrive Del Rio for lunch, depart
Del Rio for Corpus Christi Intl for RON.
Mar 1, Depart Corpus Christi, flyover Washington-on-the-Brazos, arrive
San Marcos Muni for RON.
Mar 2, Join Flyover breakfast and briefing
Sign up with Stu McCurdy at 512-388-7399 or sturdy(at)att.net
For additional info, see website at www.celebratetexas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
An RV-4 and I (-6) rountinely fly formation - just about every chance we
have. I've flown formation with others also - C-140's and planes flying at
more leisure speeds. I feel comfortable flying with my left hand. I think
humans have a great ability to adapt. Now there were days where I don't
feel quite up to snuff so I don't come too close. There are also days where
I could tell if your nose is clean.
I'm assuming you're talking about flying formation as a wingman. A lot of
times the lead dictates how well the wingman will fly. I think the thing
about formation flying is making sure your mental readiness is there. Be
familiar with your lead's flying style. Formation flying can be hynotic.
Your left hand can't help but follow your mind naturally. Also, there's a
few guidelines to follow when flying lead. So don't forget.
N985VU
RV-6
Maryland
>
>Hmmmmmmm.... I plan on doing a little formation (i.e. A LOT) of formation, and
>I am somewhat concerned about this issue. If I'm flying single-ship I would
>agree with the statement below, but in a close formation, the finesse required
>can be quite high. I personnaly don't worry about the dexterity required to
>change the radio, but in fingertip or eschelon, pulling G's, or heaven forbid,
>in the weather, I'd like not to be bobbling about out there. Plus, there's the
>added aspect of not wanting to look like a "ham fist" on the wing. So are
there
>any -6 drivers out there that regularly do a little formating, that have spent
>most of their time prior to the RV with the stick in their right hand? And if
>so, am I being a little too anal about this aspect of the building too?
>
>Thanks,
>Keith Hughes
>RV-6, Flaps
>Parker, CO
>
>lucky macy wrote:
>
>> Usually you are not
>> doing much which requires a lot of dexterity with the stick itself and the
>> left hand can handle that.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring Shielded Radios etc... |
Lister's,
I am wiring the following UPS Aviation Technolgy products into my 8A.
SL30 Nav Com
MD 200 CDI
SL70 Transponder
SL50 GPS
I bought some real good quality electrical products from
AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore. Check them out at
http://hometown.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html, I really like the shielded
grounding pigtails.
Much of the wiring called out for these radios is shielded and per the
wiring diagrams is to be grounded both at the chassis of the unit & the
terminal end.
I would like to build the harnesses in 18inch pigtails & spice longer runs
into such as the mic's & headsets.
With shielded wire can one splice or does it have to be a continues run?
Thanks.....Mark
Mark Steffensen
Dallas, TX 8A
Getting Close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring EGT &CHT |
>
>
>Get it from RMI $36
Thanks, but I have one. I'm looking the PRE-WIRED switch someone post a
while back.
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
Lebanon, OR
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
> > Hmmmmmmm.... I plan on doing a little formation
> (i.e. A LOT) of formation, and
> > I am somewhat concerned about this issue.
----- snip -----
So are there
> > any -6 drivers out there that regularly do a
> little formating, that have spent
> > most of their time prior to the RV with the stick
> in their right hand? And if
> > so, am I being a little too anal about this aspect
> of the building too?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Keith Hughes
> > RV-6, Flaps
> > Parker, CO
Keith:
The SoCAL Wing of Van's Air Force "6-Pack" fly
formation weekly.
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/album_2.html
We are not drivers but FLYERS that try for the highest
level of professionalism. :-)
We all have throttle in the center of the aircraft
(right hand) and stick in our left hand. We are all
RIGHT handed.
The four shown in the photo fly weekly. There are
several other RV-6(A)s, RV-4's, RV-3A, Lancair(s),
C-210, and Arrow(s) show up for our weekly flyouts.
This Sunday we are flying out to Rosamond (L00) for
the Sunday Brunch weather permitting.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Batt selection |
christopher huey wrote:
>
> In hopes of shaving off a-couple of pounds I was thinking of using a
> Odyssey PC-680 (available locally) battery. My original plan was to use the
> Concorde RG-25XC. Did not really get a clear answer in the archives:
> Question anyone with practical experience with both batteries? My man
> concern is cranking power for a IO-360 (200hp) engine especially when hot.
> My electric loads are modest...VHF comm, high pressure fuel boost pump,
> digital tach......and 10' of tefzel #2 wire to the starter (Skytec 149-LS).
> Before I go spend my $100 and modify the tray I would like to know if this
> small batt is up to the job and if flown regularly last two years?
I can only attest to the Odyssey as I have no experience with a Concorde. My
odyssey has test run my electrical system, sat idle for months, test run the
electrical system again with landing, nav and strobes running, pumped a couple
of gallons of avgas with the boost pump and finally started the engine without
ever being charged. All present marveled at how fast it spun my O-360-A1A with
high compression pistons. I think mine is the 680 (manual is at the airport)
and was 159 bucks locally. So if you can get one for 100, go for it
Gary Zilik - Final inspection on Monday morning
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William J. Oke" <Jim_Oke(at)mbnet.mb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
For Mike
My horizontal stab drawing - "3PP" - is dated 3/7/96 and should be the one
issued in 1997. However "R2" - revision 2 - apparently made in 6/98, adds a
note with arrow pointing to the lower spar flange which says quote "TRIM
REAR SPAR TO ALLOW FOR ELEVATOR CONTROL HORNS TO PIVOT FORWARD AND CONTACT
ELEVATOT DOWN STOP". The isometric of the horizontal stab shows cross
hatching with dimensions given aprox 1" each side of center line and aprox
.6" forward of the aft edge to show the area to be trimmed.
Sounds like a change to dwg. 3PP post-1997.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Canada
RV-6A, muddling about with wing bits-n-pieces.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Sent: February 5, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator attachment
>
> Nope, nothing on my plans (1997 vintage) shows any notches for the cutout.
> Also, there is no mention, at this point, on what the maximum deflection
up
> on down should be.
>
> I'll check around the archieves for some more comments.
> Thanks
> Mike Nellis
> RV6 N699BM (res)
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
> >
> > Mike: I think if you check again you will find that the plans show
> notches
> > filed in the HS spar bottom flange to allow the elevator horns to go
full
> > travel. It's been a couple of years since I finished my empennage and I
> > don't have perfect recall but that's what I did.
> >
> > Harry Crosby
> > RV-6 ready for finish kit
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Batt selection |
Thx, I am going to order the alum angle Mon.
Chris
----------
> From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Batt selection
> Date: Saturday, February 05, 2000 10:31 PM
>
>
>
> christopher huey wrote:
>
> >
> > In hopes of shaving off a-couple of pounds I was thinking of using a
> > Odyssey PC-680 (available locally) battery. My original plan was to use
the
> > Concorde RG-25XC. Did not really get a clear answer in the archives:
> > Question anyone with practical experience with both batteries? My man
> > concern is cranking power for a IO-360 (200hp) engine especially when
hot.
> > My electric loads are modest...VHF comm, high pressure fuel boost pump,
> > digital tach......and 10' of tefzel #2 wire to the starter (Skytec
149-LS).
> > Before I go spend my $100 and modify the tray I would like to know if
this
> > small batt is up to the job and if flown regularly last two years?
>
> I can only attest to the Odyssey as I have no experience with a
Concorde. My
> odyssey has test run my electrical system, sat idle for months, test run
the
> electrical system again with landing, nav and strobes running, pumped a
couple
> of gallons of avgas with the boost pump and finally started the engine
without
> ever being charged. All present marveled at how fast it spun my O-360-A1A
with
> high compression pistons. I think mine is the 680 (manual is at the
airport)
> and was 159 bucks locally. So if you can get one for 100, go for it
>
> Gary Zilik - Final inspection on Monday morning
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Batt selection |
Why do aircraft batteries cost so much more than auto batteries? Is
their internal construction different or do they just have different
posts?
A good quality auto battery is only $40 around here.
Thanks
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RAINPOOF(at)aol.com |
I just bought an RV-6A on the east coast and flew it to the west coast.
Arrived yesterday and have a few questions. The flaps are manual, can they be
converted to electric without to much work? Can a Navaid wing leveler be
added at this point? What is the size of the front nose wheel tire and can it
be purchased from Aircraft Spruce or Van's? Cruise speed loked to be about
167 mph at 2450, 160hp fixed pitch. Does this seem to be about the norm?
N4188J 322 hrs SMOH
22 hours since purchase last week.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | selling rv aircraft |
A person might decide to sell so as to build another.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A wiring and panel
-----Original Message
Seriously though people run into finacial problems and other
thingslike that
and it can cause you to sell your airplane regards less of
the kind
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
> ON THE "OTHER HAND", IF one is allowed to have the PIC location be in the
> right seat instead of the left then make the right side have all the
> instruments the PIC needs and have the left side have the radios and then
> you could have your stick in the right hand and have your left hand free
> to move between the throttle controls and the comm/nav instruments, maps,
> flaps, etc.
>
> anything in the FARS agains having the PIC in the right seat? I couldn't
> imagine why if you designed for it.
>
> any thoughts other than "i'm not used to the right seat?"
I saw a nice -6 at OSH this year which had the whole panel deigned to be flown
from the right seat, ie flight instruments on the right, radios/ engine gauges
on left.. I even took a pic, but forgot to write down the tail #. It seems
like a very workable idea, and I plan to go that route myself when I get that
far. It would feel more natural, left hand throttle, right hand stick.
Visiblity would be the same. And as a CFI I have far more right seat time
anyway. If you do this, PLEASE get some right seat dual first- it takes a bit
of getting used to, but becomes 2nd nature quickly.
PS if anyone knows the -6 I'm refering to, I would like to get in touch with the
owner. It is a -6 slider, white with blue and red stripes, with a nice IFR
panel. That's all I can tell from my pic. It was at OSH in 99.
Jeff Point
jpoint(at)execpc.com
-6 tail fiber&*%#$@!!glass, waiting on wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | SourceRV, was: Elevator attachment |
This plans revision is available on the SourceRV web site, if you are
a subsriber. They are only up to sheet 11 on the RV-4, and sheet 4
for the -6 and -8 for so far, but instant access to plans revisions
looks to be one of the best reasons to subscribe.
It is taking Jeremy longer to get all the material up than he hoped,
so if you subscribe now, you get access, but he won't actually take
your money until March. He has already delayed that date twice, so I
am confident that he will delay it again unless he can deliver the
rest of the goods by March.
Here is the list of things he currently shows in the site index:
Builder's Shop
Support Expert System - your question might have already been
answered; look here
Technical Articles - a collection of technical support articles,
builder's hints, and more
Collective Knowledge - helpful information from your fellow builders
Plans Revisions - ensure your plans contain all the revisions
published (done 3-0,4-11,6-4,8-4,9-all)
Alternative Manuals - several builders have written construction
manual supplements
Custom Order Forms - specify what you want and have a Van's order
form generated
Pilot's Hangar
Safety Articles - safety cannot be emphasized enough; read these
and fly safe!
Flight Instructor - hints and tips to refine your RV flying skills
Fly-In Schedule - a comprehensive list of all fly-ins where RVs are
expected to attend
CG Calculate - do your preliminary/planning CG calculations easily
and simply here!
Information Center
On-line Builders - database of RV builders who are on-line
Builder Group Listings - detailed listing of RV builder groups and activities
Builder Group News - learn what's happening with RV builder groups
around the world
RV of the Day - pictures and descriptions of RVs; updated every business day
Van's Skunkworks - get a sneak peak at what's happening in the shop at Van's
Fly-In Cams/News - live photos and articles of RV nature from
selected fly-ins around the country
Letters to the Webmaster - SourceRV users' comments and questions (answered)
RV Aviation News - selected aviation news stories of interest to RV
builder/pilots
New Products for RVs - listing of new products suited to use in RVs
New Products from Van's - the latest offering from Van's Aircraft
News from Van's - what's happening at Van's Aircraft
First Flight Announcements - congrats to those who have flown their RVs
Builder Profiles - read about your friend and neighbors who are
building/flying RVs
Image Gallery
Completed Aircraft Collection - largest collection of RVs in
existence; 1000+ photos
Instrument Panels/Interiors - helpful in laying out your panel and
selecting an interior (done: 16)
Construction Photos - our limited collection of RVs under construction
Web Wide Construction - most known RV construction photos on the
web are indexed here
The Archives
Van's RVator - official publication of Van's Aircraft; (done: 1-4
1995 ; all 1996-97; 3-6 1998; text)
First Flights - listings of first flight announcements from
1990-1999 (done: 1997)
Fly-In Cams/News - archived photos and articles of RV activity from
past fly-ins
==================
Most of those items are not yet available. The available items are:
Plans Revisions - ensure your plans contain all the revisions
published (done 3-0,4-11,6-4,8-4,9-all)
Fly-In Cams/News - live photos and articles of RV nature from
selected fly-ins around the country
Instrument Panels/Interiors - helpful in laying out your panel and
selecting an interior (done: 16)
Van's RVator - official publication of Van's Aircraft; (done: 1-4
1995 ; all 1996-97; 3-6 1998; text)
First Flights - listings of first flight announcements from
1990-1999 (done: 1997)
Fly-In Cams/News - archived photos and articles of RV activity from
past fly-ins
Take care,
Kevin Horton
>
>For Mike
>
>My horizontal stab drawing - "3PP" - is dated 3/7/96 and should be the one
>issued in 1997. However "R2" - revision 2 - apparently made in 6/98, adds a
>note with arrow pointing to the lower spar flange which says quote "TRIM
>REAR SPAR TO ALLOW FOR ELEVATOR CONTROL HORNS TO PIVOT FORWARD AND CONTACT
>ELEVATOT DOWN STOP". The isometric of the horizontal stab shows cross
>hatching with dimensions given aprox 1" each side of center line and aprox
>.6" forward of the aft edge to show the area to be trimmed.
>
>Sounds like a change to dwg. 3PP post-1997.
>
>Jim Oke
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
I used a JOHNSON magnetic angle locator I purchased at home depot. Paid
less than $10. Just level the fuse and measure the angles. Altho the
magnetic base is useless you will have no trouble determining the angle
of deflection.
Earl RV4
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
>
> Mike Nellis wrote:
> > Also, there is no mention, at this point, on what the maximum deflection up
> > on down should be.
>
> The fuselage notes give this information (35 down and 25 up, perhaps? --
> I don't have my notes with me here) under the Emp. Attachment section.
>
> Note that the L & R horns probably don't align exactly with each other,
> so you may need to cut out more flange in one place than the other.
>
> I haven't figured out an easy and cheap way to measure the deflection
> angle yet (easy way would be to use a smart level or similar, but
> they're not cheap).
>
> Frank.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Heat Muff Fit-Up |
Just a little forewarning for you RV-6 builders who have not installed your
exhaust system/heat muff yet. The 9" muff sold by Van's is too long to fit
on the right exhaust pipe on the Vetterman cross over system. An 8" or
shorter muff would probably work.
The 9" muff fits perfectly on the left pipe. However, some short sighted
cretin installed the heat box on the right side of my airplane....
As an aside, the Vetterman exhaust bolted on in about an hour. A perfect fit.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harris" <johnh(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | re: selling rv aircraft |
>speaking of selling our rv,s, my question is why would
anyone <
My sentiments exactly, Glenn...
John Harris
Cary, NC
RV9A N901RV (Reserved)
Building elevators after stewing for years about getting started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RAINPOOF(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New purchase Questions |
Just bought an RV-6A on the east coast and brought it out to the west coast
this week. It had a total time of 310 hours and now has 332. during this trip
I realized I would prefer electric flaps over the manual, can this be done
without to much trouble? Also is it possible to put in a Navaid wing leveler
at this time? What is the size of the front tire? A cruise of 167 mph at
2450 on 160 hp fixed pitch/two steps hanging down, is this the norm.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Muff Fit-Up |
I had the same problem. I sent mine back to Van's for credit. I called
Larry Vetterman on it, and he is also aware of the problem. He highly
recommended buying a Robbin's heat muff. I attempted to contact Rick on
several occasions, but can not get a response. I don't know what I am going
to do. If one of you gets a hold of him, please order one for me while you
have him on the phone!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 7:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Heat Muff Fit-Up
>
>
> Just a little forewarning for you RV-6 builders who have not installed
your
> exhaust system/heat muff yet. The 9" muff sold by Van's is too long to
fit
> on the right exhaust pipe on the Vetterman cross over system. An 8" or
> shorter muff would probably work.
>
> The 9" muff fits perfectly on the left pipe. However, some short sighted
> cretin installed the heat box on the right side of my airplane....
>
> As an aside, the Vetterman exhaust bolted on in about an hour. A perfect
fit.
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
In a message dated 1/25/00 7:13:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> Does anyone have a template available for the cutouts around the valve
> covers for a 200hp
> IO-360 angle valve engine? I have a fiberglass plenum chamber from Sam
James
> that I only want
> to cut once!
>
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A
>
>
Please post responses to the list. I'm planning on purchasing the baffle kit
from Van's just to get a good starting point. Any comments?
Brian Eckstein
waiting for IO-360 from Bart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Batt selection |
I can tell you that when we changed our turbine helicopter fleet to the RG
series concordes from the SAFT nicads we noticed a substantial decrease in
time it took for starts. A battery with weak reserve will not even start
some of our turbines in winter.
-----Original Message-----
From: christopher huey <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
Date: Saturday, February 05, 2000 7:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Batt selection
>
>In hopes of shaving off a-couple of pounds I was thinking of using a
>Odyssey PC-680 (available locally) battery. My original plan was to use the
>Concorde RG-25XC. Did not really get a clear answer in the archives:
>Question anyone with practical experience with both batteries? My man
>concern is cranking power for a IO-360 (200hp) engine especially when hot.
>My electric loads are modest...VHF comm, high pressure fuel boost pump,
>digital tach......and 10' of tefzel #2 wire to the starter (Skytec 149-LS).
>Before I go spend my $100 and modify the tray I would like to know if this
>small batt is up to the job and if flown regularly last two years?
>
>THX
>
>Chris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
By all means, buy it. The baffles are a pain in the rear with the kit, but
could not imagine doing it without the kit. With out the right forming
tools I can't see making the baffles yourself.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <BSEckstein(at)cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: BAFFLE TEMPLATES
>
> In a message dated 1/25/00 7:13:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> emcole(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> >
> > Does anyone have a template available for the cutouts around the valve
> > covers for a 200hp
> > IO-360 angle valve engine? I have a fiberglass plenum chamber from Sam
> James
> > that I only want
> > to cut once!
> >
> >
> > Ed Cole
> > RV6A
> >
> >
> Please post responses to the list. I'm planning on purchasing the baffle
kit
> from Van's just to get a good starting point. Any comments?
>
> Brian Eckstein
> waiting for IO-360 from Bart
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Stick in the Left or Right Hand |
Keith,
I flew formation in the Air Force fighters for 30 years with the stick
in the right hand. When considering buying a side-by-side experimental
I wondered about the stick in the left hand. It turned out to be a
non-problem. The mind controls the hand eye coordination and which hand
the stick is in seems to have no effect on the finesse for formation.
I presently own an RV-3 and a Mustang II, both of which I fly regularly
in formation, sometimes both in the same day. This is serious formation
with high angles of pitch and bank in fingertip, echelon, trail,
extended trail, pitchouts, rejoins, and aerobatics. Although I prefer
flying the RV-3 because of the maneuverability, it makes no difference
so far as precision as to which hand is on the stick or throttle. If
you fly solid formation, it will be good using either hand.
Stu McCurdy
Formation Flying, Inc (FFI)
RV-3, 74TX
Round Rock, TX
Hmmmmmmm.... I plan on doing a little formation (i.e. A LOT) of
formation, and
I am somewhat concerned about this issue. If I'm flying single-ship I
would
agree with the statement below, but in a close formation, the finesse
required
can be quite high. I personnaly don't worry about the dexterity
required to
change the radio, but in fingertip or eschelon, pulling G's, or heaven
forbid,
in the weather, I'd like not to be bobbling about out there. Plus,
there's the
added aspect of not wanting to look like a "ham fist" on the wing. So
are there
any -6 drivers out there that regularly do a little formating, that have
spent
most of their time prior to the RV with the stick in their right hand?
And if
so, am I being a little too anal about this aspect of the building too?
Thanks,
Keith Hughes
RV-6, Flaps
Parker, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Melby <pmelby(at)midwestinfo.com> |
| Subject: | fire, exhaustleak detection |
tom,
i think that you might detect a serious problem, ie, large exhaust leak or fuel
fed fire using a temp sensor
in the cowl outlet. you might need to use rate of temp rise to trigger the warning.
the DC-10-30 has nacelle temp sensors, mainly used to detect bleed air leaks.
Peter J. Melby
pmelby(at)midwestinfo.com
RV8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Metalplane(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Ribs Backwards |
You're hardly the first! I did the same thing years ago. The shapes are
different, so I built a new one. I may rebuild the defective aileron some day
and use it to experiment with a trim tab installed.
Good Luck!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dustin Norlund <dustin(at)busprod.com> |
UPDATE.
A few days ago there was alot of talk of how to sell things on the
list. Just for kicks i sent Ebay www.ebay.com an email asking them to
setup the following catagories:
Aviation:
Cessna:
Piper:
Other:
Homebuilt:
Engine:
Avionics:
Tools:
Pilot Accessories:
They responded with a few of the catagories. Good enough for me, I was
surprized they did what i asked them to do anyway. 1 email was all it
took. You can look at the new catagories from the following link. The
catagories are under Aviation, directly below the ADULT section......
hmmm
http://pages.ebay.com/misc-index.html
By the way I am still looking for a prop for a 150 hp RV6, and exhaust
for the same.
--
Dustin Norlund
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Debi VonDane" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Left flap done... |
Well... George O. says the flaps are the easiest of the control
surfaces to build, but this baby tested me... Besides! What's this
about I HAVE TO MAKE PARTS? ha, ha, ha...
Anyway, the only trouble I ran into was bucking on the inside of the
flap. What I did was use the side of my Tatco no-hole yoke ( I got
the idea from Jerry Calvert, RV-6A builder ). It worked great. I
also made a small bucking bar for the inboard tip rib rivets at the
bottom... I have a Tatco squeezer, and a 3" yoke is the biggest you
can get. You need a 4" to do those rivets...
BTW... Has anyone with a Tatco yoke entertained the possibility of
using those removable pins instead of the roll pins for the different
yokes?
I will publish pictures of the flap const. on my web site tomorrow...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), Wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | C/Sinking for #8 screws, RV-8 LG Box |
Hi guys,
I have been studiously studying the plans and instructions, trying to
make sure I got the tools, etc I needed well in advance of each
construction phase. Well, I missed the #8 countersink for the bunch
of screws in the RV-8 landing gear boxes. For the moment, I have
only drilled the holes #30, so I am thinking about using a big (1/2
inch body) #30 piloted countersink I've got to countersink the
underlying longerons, etc. Then I would put the outer skin back on,
and final drill for the #8 screws, and then dimple the skin. Of
course I will try this out on some scrap first. Does this sound like
it might work, or am I wasting my time (and precious scrap) to even
try?
I'm not worried about the cost of the C/S, but rather the time - it
takes quite a while to get stuff up here to Canada, and I don't think
I have any hope of finding a #8 piloted C/S locally. I should be in
Wichita on Wednesday next week, so I could get Avery to ship one to a
friend there, but it doesn't seem likely that it would get to Wichita
by Tuesday, so he could bring it to work on Wednesday. I could
probably find one at the Boeing surplus place in Wichita, as they had
all kinds of new looking countersinks in various sizes last time I
was there, but I don't think I'll be able to fit that into the
schedule.
Are there any other C/Sinks, or other oddball tools I should order
now to make sure I don't get stuck again on the RV-8?
Oh well, I've got lots of other stuff I can work on, if I have to
stop for this.
Thanks for your advice,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F-421 instrument flange |
I just mounted my instrument panel and don't seem to have enough skin laying
around for the underlying strip (F-421A). This strip protrudes aft to form a
shelf for the lip of the canopy. Do I trim that 1 1/4 strip from the F-421
skin or should I order some more skin?
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harris" <johnh(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV9 elevator skin to spar |
Anyone who's gotten this far got any suggestions on how to rivet elevator
top skin to spar ? I wanted to back rivet woth the Avery Back-rivet set, but
doesn't seem like that will work.
Thanks for help
John Harris
Cary, NC
RV9A N901RV (Reserved) Momentarily stuck on elevator skin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Lessons learned in early flight testing |
Kathy and I have a little over 4 hrs on our -6A(Q) now. It's flying very
well, and I think that we're going to have everything dialed in pretty soon.
We have learned a couple of things, though, that I thought I'd share. These
are observations and comments, not particularly issues deserving major
debate/discussion.
First - a brand new engine (that is a little tight and needs lots of
cooling) and a brand new (unfamiliar) airplane make for an interesting
conflict. To really do justice to the plane on those very early (first)
flights, recommended procedure would be to take off and climb out at about
(estimated) Vy, to get altitude (and choices) as quickly as possible. At
the same time, however, that brand new engine would appreciate having the
nose held down to get speed up for more cooling airflow (to say nothing of a
little power reduction as soon as practical). On my first flight, climb-out
was at about 90-100 kts indicated, and the cylinder temps were heading
uphill nearly as fast as the altimeter. Leveled off, they came back in
line, but it certainly raised my attention level for a while. On subsequent
flights, I had enough confidence that things were working well that I've
held the nose down to let it climb out at 110-120 kts. That has made a big
difference in cooling! I also have seen that as the engine has gained a
couple of hours of run time, it doesn't seem to heat up as quickly - my
hypothesis is that it's normal break-in and loosening up going on. My
comment - for those of you with new engines, plan your climb-out airspeed
before that first takeoff. If I did it again, I'd probably split the
difference, and try for 100-110 kts as a compromise.
Second (and this was a contributing factor to the previous note) - I'm
finding about a 20 degree difference in CHT readings for a given cylinder
based on where the temperature is measured. I made the first flight with
the (cheaper) temp probes under the bottom spark plugs. After seeing the
high temps, I bought a set of probes for the bayonet wells. I hooked up
both probes on the #1 and #4 cylinders (ignoring #2 & #3 for the moment -
all four were similar on the first flight). At any given time, the bayonet
style probes show 10-25 deg cooler readings than the ones under the plugs.
Lycoming's literature defines temp limits based on the bayonet location...
If you have sensors under the plugs, my opinion is that you could run at
least 10 degrees, if not 20, higher than recommended numbers and still have
equivalent real internal temperatures. Also - I'm seeing a little more
variation in temperatures with time - the #1 cyl is showing about 30 deg
lower in cruise than #4. Looks like the little blocking baffle in front of
#1 is going to be appropriate... (may have been "masked" by the overall
high temps from being tight on the first couple flights).
Third - make sure you plan time for your building partner/copilot/wife to
get some stick time in, too (assuming they're licensed) - it's too much fun
not to share, and the "phase 1" time can get flown off much quicker with two
pilots working on learning all the quirks and fixing the squawks!
Bill & Kathy Peck - N110KB flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV List: "Poker Run" |
Our EAA Chapter meets twice a month for a Breakfast
and a cookout starting in April. The sad thing is we
don't use our airplanes for a fun activity.
I am trying to come up with a fun activity like a
"Poker Run" or something like that. Does anybody have
something fun their club does or did?
Thanks,
Dan DeNeal
RV6a finish kit coming next week!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Lessons learned in early flight testing |
Dad,
Note that 3rd observation :-)
Love,
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Sun, Feb 6, 2000 2:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lessons learned in early flight testing
Kathy and I have a little over 4 hrs on our -6A(Q) now. It's flying very
well, and I think that we're going to have everything dialed in pretty soon.
We have learned a couple of things, though, that I thought I'd share. These
are observations and comments, not particularly issues deserving major
debate/discussion.
First - a brand new engine (that is a little tight and needs lots of
cooling) and a brand new (unfamiliar) airplane make for an interesting
conflict. To really do justice to the plane on those very early (first)
flights, recommended procedure would be to take off and climb out at about
(estimated) Vy, to get altitude (and choices) as quickly as possible. At
the same time, however, that brand new engine would appreciate having the
nose held down to get speed up for more cooling airflow (to say nothing of a
little power reduction as soon as practical). On my first flight, climb-out
was at about 90-100 kts indicated, and the cylinder temps were heading
uphill nearly as fast as the altimeter. Leveled off, they came back in
line, but it certainly raised my attention level for a while. On subsequent
flights, I had enough confidence that things were working well that I've
held the nose down to let it climb out at 110-120 kts. That has made a big
difference in cooling! I also have seen that as the engine has gained a
couple of hours of run time, it doesn't seem to heat up as quickly - my
hypothesis is that it's normal break-in and loosening up going on. My
comment - for those of you with new engines, plan your climb-out airspeed
before that first takeoff. If I did it again, I'd probably split the
difference, and try for 100-110 kts as a compromise.
Second (and this was a contributing factor to the previous note) - I'm
finding about a 20 degree difference in CHT readings for a given cylinder
based on where the temperature is measured. I made the first flight with
the (cheaper) temp probes under the bottom spark plugs. After seeing the
high temps, I bought a set of probes for the bayonet wells. I hooked up
both probes on the #1 and #4 cylinders (ignoring #2 & #3 for the moment -
all four were similar on the first flight). At any given time, the bayonet
style probes show 10-25 deg cooler readings than the ones under the plugs.
Lycoming's literature defines temp limits based on the bayonet location...
If you have sensors under the plugs, my opinion is that you could run at
least 10 degrees, if not 20, higher than recommended numbers and still have
equivalent real internal temperatures. Also - I'm seeing a little more
variation in temperatures with time - the #1 cyl is showing about 30 deg
lower in cruise than #4. Looks like the little blocking baffle in front of
#1 is going to be appropriate... (may have been "masked" by the overall
high temps from being tight on the first couple flights).
Third - make sure you plan time for your building partner/copilot/wife to
get some stick time in, too (assuming they're licensed) - it's too much fun
not to share, and the "phase 1" time can get flown off much quicker with two
pilots working on learning all the quirks and fixing the squawks!
Bill & Kathy Peck - N110KB flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4th RV-ator? |
>
>I'm not sure I ever received the 4th RV-ator in 1999. I was cleaning
>up around the office, and can't find it, nor can I remember it. I
>had heard of a problem with some Canadian deliveries of that issue,
>so maybe I got bit.
Kevin,
The fourth has an article about how to interpret all the data in the Cafe
Reports. The cover has an English RV-6 flown by once Fleet Air Arm
aerobatic champion, Ray Harper.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Lessons learned - whoops |
To all,
Sorry about that. It was supposed to go to my dad I forgot to change the address.
I wanted to point out to him that he needs to get ready to help me fly off
the time.
But since I've mentioned it, I might as well tell you about it. After an absence
from flying for 27 years, I finally convinced him to get his medical (it didn't
hurt that he just came back from Van's 50K ride). Well, he did, got his
BFR and is now working on our (it used to be mine, but now he call it his) RV-6.
I humor him because he bought a new engine for it 2 years ago.
Actually, it's been real fun having him work on the airplane. He'd only help if
I really needed it (like driving rivets I couldn't do by myself) but he really
kept his distance. Something about not wanting to get involved. Now I can't
keep him out of the hangar. I asked what changed. He said "it's just starting
to get interesting". He's helped with the wiring and a bunch of other stuff.
If really reminds me of the times we spent together in the garage with him teaching
me how to build models when I was young. Now, I get to tell him what to
work on next :-) He keeps moving my tools around just for fun. I ask why he
does that and he says he doesn't know where to put them. I think he doing it
on purpose because that's what I used to do to him 20 years ago. Paybacks are
a bitch.
Sorry for the bandwidth,
Laird (used to have a silent partner)
RV-6 22923 working towards the final assy
SoCal
Dad,
Note that 3rd observation :-)
Love,
Laird
Third - make sure you plan time for your building partner/copilot/wife to
get some stick time in, too (assuming they're licensed) - it's too much fun
not to share, and the "phase 1" time can get flown off much quicker with two
pilots working on learning all the quirks and fixing the squawks!
Bill & Kathy Peck - N110KB flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
Have been reading this thread with interest. New to the list, and not
sure how to find archived posts.
Interested in using a throttle quadrant (RV-8 type) on the left cabin
wall in order to fly right handed. Would like to mount a second throttle
quadrant either in the center or on the right cabin wall. I haven't come
up with a good way to connect them together. Has there been a thread
about connecting dual throttle quadrants together, or is there anyone
out there who has built such a rig?
Charlie Brame
San Antonio, TX
RV-6A QB, Wings finished, back on fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Oil filler door, RV8/8A |
RV8 folks, (and maybe other RV model drivers),
If you plan to not use the camlock fasteners to hold your oil filler door
down, you may have to do some reinforcement to the door so it does not
pucker up in flight. I installed a Cessna type latch (Hartzell? Hartman?
whatever) which is a clean and nice looking setup, but the door almost
popped up out of engagement with the lip of the cowl cutout in flight.
Whoa...lots of air pressure in there!
So, to use the flush type of latch, you may have to stiffen the door with
carbon fiber or make a reinforcement rib to keep it from distorting. I
ended up just installing the Camlocks in addition to the original latch and
it stays down flat now...even at 200mph. :) In typical Van's fashion, it may
not look the best, but it works.
Oh well, live and learn.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
phase one test period done! Let the traveling begin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
I have a new Flightcom 403MC intercom for sale if anyone is interested.
These are good little units and I have used three of them previously.
Bought this one for my 8 but decided to go uptown this time and get one
with seperate mike circuits and stereo capabilities. Van lists these @
$115.24, will sell it for $100 and I will pay the shipping.
Best regards. Bill
RV-8 Windshield fairing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil filler door, RV8/8A |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> RV8 folks, (and maybe other RV model drivers),
>
> If you plan to not use the camlock fasteners to hold your oil filler door
> down, you may have to do some reinforcement to the door so it does not
> pucker up in flight. I installed a Cessna type latch (Hartzell? Hartman?
> whatever) which is a clean and nice looking setup, but the door almost
> popped up out of engagement with the lip of the cowl cutout in flight.
> Whoa...lots of air pressure in there!
>
> So, to use the flush type of latch, you may have to stiffen the door with
> carbon fiber or make a reinforcement rib to keep it from distorting. I
> ended up just installing the Camlocks in addition to the original latch and
> it stays down flat now...even at 200mph. :) In typical Van's fashion, it may
> not look the best, but it works.
>
Brian;
I made a 1 1/2" wide reinforcement around the opening with 1/2" of it sticking
into the opening. The 0.032 piece was rivited and glassed to the cowling like
the hinges. The door itself was made of 0.032 alum. It all stays very flat and
tight with the camlock holding it closed. One of the advantages of putting
0.032 one piece top skins on your -4 is the extra metal you have available for
many little projects.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | 1250 Mile Range Mod |
Listers,
So many flights turn out to be interesting. I had another one today. This
mission was simple, pick up my buddy who needed to leave his Cessna 150 over
in Odessa for an annual. I decided to fly over with him. It turned out
that I came in contact with some of those unusual corners of the flight
envelope that I would not have otherwise explored.
He was trying to help me out in flying with him so he gave it all he had all
the time. On the climb out he was climbing about 70 knots IAS, probably
fast for him, but very odd for me. I had to thottle way back and a bit of
flaps made it more comfortable. We were climbing at about 200 to 300 fpm.
What was so odd was climbing, real slow, with the throttle just barely more
than cracked.
When we leveled off he was able to make about 100 knots TAS, a very
comfortable speed for me to fly. I was running 1730 RPM with my fixed pitch
Sensenich/O360 combo, and the fuel flow seemed to be averaging about 3.5 GPH
(the 150 was burning at least 4.5). When you run these figures out you get
about 33 statute mpg with a 10.8 hour absolute range and 1250 absolute
statute mile still air range. As I said, it was comfortable, although the
angle of attack is noticably greater, and it is strange to be able to see
the individual propeller blades in cruise flight. After a while I did start
to wonder if this might be harming my engine, but there was no such
indication. I had it leaned way out, and the CHT's were about 335F and oil
was 170F. After about 40 minutes I did go on and speed up.
This example is a little extreme, but it does give one food for thought for
what might be a wise thing to do on a long downwind flight. By getting
high, the economy would be even greater, and by avoiding a fuel stop it
would be easy to beat the overall speed one might get by using normal power
settings.
I would be interested in any theories of possible engine problems that may
be caused by extended low power operations.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> By all means, buy it. The baffles are a pain in the rear with the kit, but
> could not imagine doing it without the kit. With out the right forming
> tools I can't see making the baffles yourself.
I made my baffles myself and would do it again after seeing the fitting
problems my hangar mate had with his baffle kit. Mine fit just fine. The
baffles were easy to make, I did need to get the baffle instructions to figure
out how all the little pieces fit. The hard part was fabricating the aluminum
plenum cover, this can be seen at http://www.geocities.com/zilik
Gary Zilik RV-6A final inspection in the morning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 IO-360 cowl with O-360/Airflow Perf FI |
I am getting to the stage of my RV-8 project where I need to make
some engine decisions, and make a phone call to Bart Lalonde.
I love the look of the latest RV-8 cowl for the IO-360, with the air
induction taken from the front of the left cooling inlet. But, I'm
not sure I am going to have an IO-360A for price and weight reasons.
I am toying with the thought of an O-360 with an Airflow Performance
fuel injection unit added, which would sort of make it an IO-360B. I
know the IO-360A and the O-360A are very different engines. Is there
a sump available for the O-360A that would put the Airflow
Performance FI unit in the right place to mate up with Van's intake
"snake" for the IO-360, without having to do any radical fibreglas
surgery?
If anyone out there has made this work, please give me details -
engine model, any engine parts you had to change or modify, mods to
Van's air induction "snake", etc. Would you do it again?
If someone else has looked at this idea, and decided it is not
possible, I would also like to hear from you.
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 elevator skin to spar |
John, It sounds like you don't have a 3" squeezer, but even if you did you
could only reach about half of the top (or bottom) elevator/spar rivets. I
just bucked them with a 3x gun, flush rivet set and around 35 psi. They are
easy to reach and if you have the elevator in the jig it's not tough to do.
Mike Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res)
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: John Harris <johnh(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 03:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV9 elevator skin to spar
>
> Anyone who's gotten this far got any suggestions on how to rivet elevator
> top skin to spar ? I wanted to back rivet woth the Avery Back-rivet set,
but
> doesn't seem like that will work.
>
> Thanks for help
>
> John Harris
> Cary, NC
> RV9A N901RV (Reserved) Momentarily stuck on elevator skin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in left hand |
Two right-seated 6's at DWH in Houston, TX.
Skip Bonner: 281-448-1489
Doug Knab: 713-468-5517
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-421 instrument flange |
The F-421A strip came with my fuselage kit. It is 36 inches long, .032,
1.25. And I think it was labeled F-421A or I might have thought it was trim
scrap.
jb
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rvmils(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 12:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: F-421 instrument flange
>
> I just mounted my instrument panel and don't seem to have enough skin
laying
> around for the underlying strip (F-421A). This strip protrudes aft to form
a
> shelf for the lip of the canopy. Do I trim that 1 1/4 strip from the
F-421
> skin or should I order some more skin?
> Carey Mills
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sacramento Sky Ranch/BOOK |
What is cost? and S&H?
Builder's Bookstore wrote:
>
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > John Schemmer has published a book on aircraft engine and accessories called
> > the Sacramento Skyranch Engineering Manual. In its fourth or fifth printing.
> > Highly recommended reading...........
>
> Agreed! It is the best engine engine maintenance book we've seen for Lycoming
and
> Continentals. It is not really a "how to; step-by-step book, but gives an
> excellent understanding of the hows and whys unlike anything else published.
>
> Andy Gold
> Builder's Bookstore
> http://www.buildersbooks.com
>
> (within the "engine maintenance" section)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
Brian,
I didn't get any responses to the post with the exception of one who said
just trace around
the valve cover. I thought about buying the dwgs from Van's to get an idea
on how to start.
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <BSEckstein(at)cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: BAFFLE TEMPLATES
>
> In a message dated 1/25/00 7:13:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> emcole(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> >
> > Does anyone have a template available for the cutouts around the valve
> > covers for a 200hp
> > IO-360 angle valve engine? I have a fiberglass plenum chamber from Sam
> James
> > that I only want
> > to cut once!
> >
> >
> > Ed Cole
> > RV6A
> >
> >
> Please post responses to the list. I'm planning on purchasing the baffle
kit
> from Van's just to get a good starting point. Any comments?
>
> Brian Eckstein
> waiting for IO-360 from Bart
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Detecting rising engine compartment temps |
Over a year ago in Kitplanes, there was an article but a "homemade" fire
detection system. I wish I knew which issue. I may have saved it but it
will take a while to look for it. It uses fuses which melt at given temps.
Then it had a electrical circuit which detected the fuse and would self test
to insure it was working properly.
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Panel page updated |
Guys,
I made some progress on my panel this weekend and updated my site. If you're
interested you can check it out at...
http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgPanel.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, N558RL, battle with canopy skirt almost won
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Collins <collins(at)pali.com> |
| Subject: | South SF Bay RV-8 builders? |
Hi all,
I am looking into a plane to build and would like to
check out the RV-8. Are there any flying examples based
anywhere near Silicon Valley? How about any builders?
Thanks
Bob Collins
Sunnyvale CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Batt selection |
Chris,
I had two RG-25XC batteries installed in my RV-6A (Mazda Rotary
Powered, so all critical systems require reliable source of electric power)
at roughly 22 lbs each. One of them shorted a cell within 9 months, so I
swap in an Odyssey PC -680 which was cheaper, weighed only 14 lbs and spins
the engine as fast as the remaining RG-25XC. When the second RG-25XC starts
to fail, I will replace it with another PC-680. I've had my PC-680 in the
aircraft for about 1 1/2 years and its still going strong.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews NC
>
> christopher huey wrote:
> >
> >
> > In hopes of shaving off a-couple of pounds I was thinking of using a
> > Odyssey PC-680 (available locally) battery. My original plan was to use
the
> > Concorde RG-25XC. Did not really get a clear answer in the archives:
> > Question anyone with practical experience with both batteries? My man
> > concern is cranking power for a IO-360 (200hp) engine especially when
hot.
> > My electric loads are modest...VHF comm, high pressure fuel boost pump,
> > digital tach......and 10' of tefzel #2 wire to the starter (Skytec
149-LS).
> > Before I go spend my $100 and modify the tray I would like to know if
this
> > small batt is up to the job and if flown regularly last two years?
> >
> > THX
> >
> > Chris
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" <James.Johnson(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Awesome. Anyone help here: Currently I have a Sterba prop on my RV-4. It
has been excellent and provides consistent 1900 fpm climb and 192 mph
cruise. Following my flight yesterday, I was noticing that the wood prop is
developing some hair line cracks midway up the blade on one side toward the
leading edge. Long story short, I'm debating switching to a metal Sensinich
(Sp?) propeller on my O-320 150hp RV-4. Anyone out there done the switch?
What is involved (paper work and hand work) and is the metal prop BETTER
performing than the wood prop? I do use my RV for acro but seem to (so far)
have the discipline to NOT over RPM the engine!!!
Jj
-----Original Message-----
From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2000 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
--> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
Dude;
Flew mine out to the coast the other day and saw a
bunch of whales, landed at a couple of cool beachfront
airports and generally made a nuisance of myself.
NoCal has alot to see and do especially if you have an
airplane. Every airport it seems has a cafe with
decent grub. Alot of RV's out there too. I'm in Bama
this weekend flying the viper...
BJRB
--- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> Maj, AF/XOOT"
>
> Not yet Dude. I haven't even been down to my
> beloved -4 in four weeks.
> I've been stuck up here, mostly stuck in SNOW. Keep
> it flying Smokey...I'm
> jealous!
>
> Jj
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 1:53 PM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> It's a small hole, not too expensive....Just don't
> use
> the word Nee. How's life at the puzzle palace? I
> have
> been digging Southwest and flying up and down the
> Northen Cal coast. Alot of neat places to go out
> here.
> I still go back to Bama to fly the viper, but that's
> getting old real fast. I guess I'm spoiled. You get
> your cowling fixed?
>
> Smokey
>
> --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > Another question one could ask is what happens to
> > the structural integrity
> > of the roll bar with a rather large hole drilled
> > through it supporting the
> > pin?
> >
> > Of course, as my old instructor used to say, "At
> > this point your luck has
> > been quite miserable. What makes you think it's
> > about to change. S---
> > happens!"
> >
> > Jj
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:16 PM
> > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> >
> >
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> >
> > Rion;'
> >
> >
> > I'll try to take a photo for you. First, several
> > egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
> > presented in the RV4. I have been flying the F-16
> > for
> > 12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the
> -4
> > except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the rear
> > and
> > is electrically raised and lowered. It is
> > explosively
> > jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
> > automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
> > recommends ejection over "riding out" an off
> runway
> > excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main gear
> > failure and flipped over, trapping him for three
> > hours
> > until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the
> > THREE
> > inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and
> free
> > him. A fire would have made a different ending to
> > the
> > story.
> > As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary
> RV3
> > pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff
> putting
> > him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a
> sliding
> > canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted
> the
> > airplane. He was so humbled by the experience that
> > he
> > redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable,
> installed
> > a
> > BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield again.
> > With
> > 500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say that
> if
> > anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
> > otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up, I
> > am
> > jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
> > locking pin, you simply reach over your left
> > shoulder,
> > pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the canopy.
> > In
> > normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply
> pull
> > the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and slide
> > the
> > pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a tear
> > away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel with
> > aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I
> need
> > to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when
> > it's
> > shut, it won't blow open.
> >
> > Rob
> >
> > --- RION BOURGEOIS wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION BOURGEOIS"
> > >
> > >
> > > Sounds neat and simple. However, if the pin
> > slides
> > > backwards over the
> > > canopy bulkhead, how do rescuers open the canopy
> > to
> > > get you out? Got
> > > pictures? Rion
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:45 PM
> > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi J;
> > > >
> > > > I used a pin from the nautilus weight room
> > that
> > > > holds the weights in the stack. I drilled a
> hole
> > > in my
> > > > roll bar through the canopy bulkhead at a
> point
> > on
> > > the
> > > > entry side that left the canopy about 3 inches
> > > "above
> > > > the rim" with the pin in. I used plastic
> > bushings
> > > in
> > > > the hole in the roll bar just like the ones
> for
> > > the
> > > > rudder cables and drilled the pin so I could
> put
> > a
> > > > small cotter key and washer 2 inches from the
> > end.
> > > Now
> > > > I simply slide it into the hole in the canopy
> > > bulkhead
> > > > on the ground and pull it back when I shut the
> > > canopy.
> > > > It slides about 3 inches stop to stop. The
> cool
> > > part
> > > > is when the canopy is down, the pin slides
> > > backwards
> > > > OVER the top of the bulkhead preventing
> opening
> > if
> > > the
> > > > canopy lock should fail. See ya.
> > > >
> > > > Rob Ray
> > > > smokyray(at)yahoo.com
> > > > --- "J. Rion Bourgeois"
>
> > > wrote:
> > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "J. Rion
> > > Bourgeois"
> > > > >
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1250 Mile Range Mod |
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
<< I would be interested in any theories of possible engine problems that may
be caused by extended low power operations.
>>
Me, too, since I often bore holes in the sky alongside my friend in his
Maule, which cruises about 140 mph flat out. I carry 19 to 20 inches MAP for
these ops, and wonder if it's good to run a Lyc that low for hours on end.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | freshed up home page |
Listers,
I have re-breathed on my home page and put up lots of new pictures. The
old ones have been re-scanned and are much clearer.
As well, I have Van's Airforce-Ontario Wing up and running. Old
newsleters and a growing list of our members airplanes are available.
Terry
RV-6 C-GZRV
Kitchener
--
<http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/> Home Page
<http://www.ontariorvators.org> VAFOW
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil filler door, RV8/8A |
I simply made a aluimum door ( 0.40) & used my wife's rolling pin with the door
suspended over two small pieces of soft pine 1 x 2 's....5 minutes of carefull
rolling made a perfect door. I moved the cutout up a bit on the cowl so I would
not have compound curves to deal with. The hartwell fits flush & I made the
stiffner 3/4 inch wide so if I needed to add flush camlocks I would have enough
meat to mount the recepticals on.......ALLWAYS RETURN ANY KITCHEN ITEMS
IMMEDIATELY & IN THE SAME PLACE
akroguy(at)hotmail.com on 02/06/2000 07:43:38 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Oil filler door, RV8/8A
RV8 folks, (and maybe other RV model drivers),
If you plan to not use the camlock fasteners to hold your oil filler door
down, you may have to do some reinforcement to the door so it does not
pucker up in flight. I installed a Cessna type latch (Hartzell? Hartman?
whatever) which is a clean and nice looking setup, but the door almost
popped up out of engagement with the lip of the cowl cutout in flight.
Whoa...lots of air pressure in there!
So, to use the flush type of latch, you may have to stiffen the door with
carbon fiber or make a reinforcement rib to keep it from distorting. I
ended up just installing the Camlocks in addition to the original latch and
it stays down flat now...even at 200mph. :) In typical Van's fashion, it may
not look the best, but it works.
Oh well, live and learn.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
phase one test period done! Let the traveling begin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 1250 Mile Range Mod |
I heard a urban ledgend where a guy purchaced a hi qualitity inflatable life
size girl doll,made the appropiate plumbing mods, strapped the doll into the
passanger seat & filled the doll up with gas. Plumed the gas line to his
selector & was able to have this "aux. tank" extend his range too..........
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net on 02/06/2000 08:49:54 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: 1250 Mile Range Mod
Listers,
So many flights turn out to be interesting. I had another one today. This
mission was simple, pick up my buddy who needed to leave his Cessna 150 over
in Odessa for an annual. I decided to fly over with him. It turned out
that I came in contact with some of those unusual corners of the flight
envelope that I would not have otherwise explored.
He was trying to help me out in flying with him so he gave it all he had all
the time. On the climb out he was climbing about 70 knots IAS, probably
fast for him, but very odd for me. I had to thottle way back and a bit of
flaps made it more comfortable. We were climbing at about 200 to 300 fpm.
What was so odd was climbing, real slow, with the throttle just barely more
than cracked.
When we leveled off he was able to make about 100 knots TAS, a very
comfortable speed for me to fly. I was running 1730 RPM with my fixed pitch
Sensenich/O360 combo, and the fuel flow seemed to be averaging about 3.5 GPH
(the 150 was burning at least 4.5). When you run these figures out you get
about 33 statute mpg with a 10.8 hour absolute range and 1250 absolute
statute mile still air range. As I said, it was comfortable, although the
angle of attack is noticably greater, and it is strange to be able to see
the individual propeller blades in cruise flight. After a while I did start
to wonder if this might be harming my engine, but there was no such
indication. I had it leaned way out, and the CHT's were about 335F and oil
was 170F. After about 40 minutes I did go on and speed up.
This example is a little extreme, but it does give one food for thought for
what might be a wise thing to do on a long downwind flight. By getting
high, the economy would be even greater, and by avoiding a fuel stop it
would be easy to beat the overall speed one might get by using normal power
settings.
I would be interested in any theories of possible engine problems that may
be caused by extended low power operations.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | 1250 Mile Range Mod |
If it is a new engine that you are running at low power settings the engine
will not break in correctly and you will have a high oil consumption. I
have found in the field that Lycoming makes these engines to run to TBO wide
open (although we don't do that). I hardly ever run an engine below 75%.
The problems that I see from low power settings are: Increased oil
consumption, Fouled plugs, Sticking valves, and cylinders that rarely make
it to TBO without having to be pulled off and gone thru.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
<< I would be interested in any theories of possible engine problems that
may
be caused by extended low power operations.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:23:34.-0700(at)matronics.com |
02/07/2000 09:27:49 AM
My mechanic has the following engine for sale if anyone can use it, a bit
much for an RV, but maybe someone wants to make a super rocket:
The I0-470 D engine is in my hanger covered and preserved., Has
360 smoh with a TT of 1600 hrs, logbooks and all accessories included.
Asking $16,000 but will accept offers of reasonable levels.
Excellent
engine for homebuilt or modifiying to bigger engine for 260 hp. A
beautiful
3 bladed McCauley prop is available for it.
You can reply directly to him at jettec(at)aol.com
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Countersink cutters |
I ordered a #40 size countersink cutter from Avery, but the pilot is
slightly wider than the holes I've been drilling with a #40 bit. A
3/32" rivet will fit in these holes just fine, but I have to force
the countersink cutter into the hole. As you'd expect, when I'm done
countersinking, the hole is quite a bit wider than the original #40
hole. Is this normal, or did I somehow get a countersink with an
enlarged pilot? (No, I'm not using a #30 countersink. I also have one
of those and it is definitely larger than my #40.)
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
RV-9A tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | 1250 Mile Range Mod |
The O-290G (GPU) engines were designed to run at a constant RPM (something
around 1750 or so) at a rating of about 80-85 HP. As you may know, these
engines had many of the same parts in them as the O-290D engines, but some
parts were not aircraft standard and had to be replaced for use as aircraft
engines and at higher/less constant RPM's. If these engines could be run at
lower RPM with sub-substandard parts for hundreds of hours, I think that
there would be no worries about what lower power settings your engine could
run at for the these time periods with aircraft quality parts desired for
much higher loads and power requirements. My $.02.
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN 45 re-skinning wings
Socorro, NM
>>
Me, too, since I often bore holes in the sky alongside my friend in his
Maule, which cruises about 140 mph flat out. I carry 19 to 20 inches MAP
for
these ops, and wonder if it's good to run a Lyc that low for hours on end.
Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Purchased RV-6A |
>
>I just bought an RV-6A on the east coast and flew it to the west
>coast.
>Arrived yesterday and have a few questions. The flaps are manual, can
>they be
>converted to electric without to much work?
====================
The weldment needs to be removed & the handle & the two arms shorten.
then mount it aft of the f605 BH with new blocks. Install the switch.
Build a cover box around it.
Can a Navaid wing leveler be added at this point?
==========================
Yes.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Snap-in replacements for engine monitors |
I had a thought this weekend and I just knew that you guys could help me
think this thing through. I have been trying to decide whether to go with
traditional engine instruments or go with Rocky Mountain's MicroMonitor or
Grand Rapids' EIS. I've been reading though the archives and one of the
arguments against using these units is that if they break, you don't have
the required instrumentation to fly. So what I was wondering is, how
feasible would it be to create a small panel with a tach, oil pres/temp, and
fuel gauge on it that would plug into the empty be left by the broken
MicroMonitor? The idea being that I could still fly while the box was
being repaired. I figured I'd probably have to buy a separate Hobbs meter
to keep track of engine time. If I buy electrical versions of these gauges
will they work with the sending units that the MicroMonitor uses? Would the
FAA bless this unholy arrangement? Just an idea I was kicking around.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | F1Rocket(at)aol.com |
Stan,
Thanks for inquiring about the AK-450 ELT by Ameri-King. This ELT is powered
by regular "D" size DURACELL Alkaline bateries, utilizing 6 cells. This ELT
has voice transmission capability. The size is 4.27" W x 2.95" H x 5.64" L.
The weight is 2 lbs 10 oz. All the mounting brackets, antenna, and hardware
is included. It also has a 4 year extended warranty. Price is $182.50. Please
see our website at www.teamrocketaircraft.com if you are interested in
ordering.
Thanks!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Hi all...
I finished the left elevator over the weekend, and got new pictures posted
to my web site. I also added another paint scheme. It is the top picture
on the paint schemes page... I really like this one, and will probably go
with it... You can use the link below to get to my site...
-Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Purchased RV-6A |
did you buy that RV6 in New York ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1250 Mile Range Mod |
Bryan, would these type of problems be remedied by using an adjustable cowl
vent to retain engine heat in the proper range? Andy Johnson, -8 wings.
>If it is a new engine that you are running at low power settings the engine
will not break in correctly and you will have a high oil consumption. I
have found in the field that Lycoming makes these engines to run to TBO wide
open (although we don't do that). I hardly ever run an engine below 75%.
The problems that I see from low power settings are: Increased oil
consumption, Fouled plugs, Sticking valves, and cylinders that rarely make
it to TBO without having to be pulled off and gone thru.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Westward Ho! |
Sam, If you can get a little extra fuel on board I can guarantee a place to
stay out here in lovely downtown Hawaii. And there are no critters on the
runway either, just a few lost Gooney Birds every once in a while.
Have a good trip!
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
DO NOT ARCHIEVE!!
> >
> >Well, yes, I do have word!
> >
> >This evening (Sat) we are holding a pow wow at the Pow Wow Best Western
> >in Tucumcari, NM. First stop out of Decatur, AL was Russellville, AR
> >(2.4 hrs) then to Clinton, OK (2.3 hrs) then 2.0 hours against a 30 mph
> >headwind to Tucumcari. We had hoped to meet up with Brian Denk in
> >Albuquerque but we ran out of daylight and inspiration at the same time.
> >
> >Tomorrow looks like a short leg to Albuquerque, then probably on to AZ,
> >maybe a stop in Winslow. We then will determine if we can make it up to
> >the Page, AZ area, or maybe head on down to Sedona.
> >
> >Interesting tipdbit from today; We decided to not stop at an airport
> >after the facility directory advised to look out for gopher holes in the
> >runway. This was a paved runway! We resisted the temptation to stop
> >anyway to check out the gophers with carbide-tipped incisors.....
> >
> >The RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8 are proving to be fine travellers. One of the
> >passengers is a QB RV-6 builder who is threatening to jump ship in
> >Pheonix so he can fly Southwest back home and get right back to work on
> >his plane. Needless to say, he is very impressed with the way the RV can
> >gobble up territory.
> >
> >Brian, sorry we will probably miss you at Double Eagle...maybe next
> >trip.
> >
> >Sam Buchanan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Product Review - Seat Belts |
Product - 5 point harness
Manufacturer - Pacific Aero Harness
Web Page - http://home.att.net/~robh/
Product Description - Harness for RV-6 including crotch strap, leather buckle
pad, complete directions for crotch strap installation.
Cost - $125 per seat
Weight - 3.5 lb/side
Installation Time - Took me approx 5 hours
Delivery Time - Approx 2 weeks
Ratings
Service - excellant
Product Appearance - excellant
Instructions - excellant
Value - Excellant
Strong points - Excellent service, directions. Appears very sturdy.
Excellant
price
Weak points - 3.5 lb each may be slightly heavier than some other
harnesses.
Dave Beizer RV-6
Waiting for hanger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Product Review - Seat Belts |
Belts
>Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 19:15:26 EST
>
>
>Product - 5 point harness
>Manufacturer - Pacific Aero Harness
>Web Page - http://home.att.net/~robh/
>Product Description - Harness for RV-6 including crotch strap, leather
>buckle
>pad, complete directions for crotch strap installation.
>Cost - $125 per seat
>Weight - 3.5 lb/side
>Installation Time - Took me approx 5 hours
>Delivery Time - Approx 2 weeks
>Ratings
> Service - excellant
> Product Appearance - excellant
> Instructions - excellant
> Value - Excellant
> Strong points - Excellent service, directions. Appears very sturdy.
>Excellant
> price
> Weak points - 3.5 lb each may be slightly heavier than some other
>harnesses.
>
>Dave Beizer RV-6
>Waiting for hanger
I fully agree. I'm very happy with my Pac Aero Harness belts. They have a
sturdy, and robust feel to them but don't really weigh all that much. MUCH
better than any belts with the cheesy airline type latches. When that latch
snaps down, you KNOW you're set to do some serious RV'ing!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Kits? |
John,
I just finished a complete installation in my RV-8A with an IFR panel and a
60 amp alternator. I started with Van's electrical installation kit and
went from there. There are I couple of things I would recommend. I liked
the c/b switches tht came with the kit but would have preferred the
push/pull type c/b's instead of the "pop" type. I would definitely have a
better terminal strip than the two nylon bars and bolts one that is in Van's
kit. I found that out too late. it is just too big and bulky. I could
have installed three 8 lug terminal strips in the room that one used. Have
a few basic options that one could order, i.e., front or rear mount battery,
up to 35 amp alternator or 35 to 60 amp alternator, etc.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>
>We get quite a few requests from builders asking "do you have a specific
>kit
>that will do my electrical for my ??? kit plane."
>
>We would like to say yes, but can't since everyone has a different way of
>doing their wiring and there are so many different types of planes being
>built.
------SNIP-------->
>Can you help me design such a kit by letting know what you like in it so it
>will work for you? We doing this for two reasons #1: we are trying real
>hard
>to provide a service to home builders and #2: Make a living at providing
>that
>service.
>
--------------SNIP------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Snap-in replacements for engine monitors |
Scott,
From what I have been reading in the Visions book, and having just finished
my installation, I don't think the transducers from visions will work with
any of the other ones available. I may be wrong but that is sure what I get
the feeling of in their book. I also have installed the EI fuel gage system
and it will definitely not work so that would support the others not working
either.
As far as the change out goes from the FAA stand point there is nothing from
our stand point that would have to be done except to make sure it is entered
in the logs.
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV-List: Snap-in replacements for engine monitors
>Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:23:09 -0800
>
>
>
>I had a thought this weekend and I just knew that you guys could help me
>think this thing through. I have been trying to decide whether to go with
>traditional engine instruments or go with Rocky Mountain's MicroMonitor or
>Grand Rapids' EIS. I've been reading though the archives and one of the
>arguments against using these units is that if they break, you don't have
>the required instrumentation to fly. So what I was wondering is, how
>feasible would it be to create a small panel with a tach, oil pres/temp,
>and
>fuel gauge on it that would plug into the empty be left by the broken
>MicroMonitor? The idea being that I could still fly while the box was
>being repaired. I figured I'd probably have to buy a separate Hobbs meter
>to keep track of engine time. If I buy electrical versions of these gauges
>will they work with the sending units that the MicroMonitor uses? Would
>the
>FAA bless this unholy arrangement? Just an idea I was kicking around.
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersink cutters |
Mark,
The same happened to me!
I had the three blade cutter and the pilot is too big. There is a single
blade cutter that seemed to work well.
Peter
> I ordered a #40 size countersink cutter from Avery, but the pilot is
> slightly wider than the holes I've been drilling with a #40 bit. A
> 3/32" rivet will fit in these holes just fine, but I have to force
> the countersink cutter into the hole. As you'd expect, when I'm done
> countersinking, the hole is quite a bit wider than the original #40
> hole. Is this normal, or did I somehow get a countersink with an
> enlarged pilot? (No, I'm not using a #30 countersink. I also have one
> of those and it is definitely larger than my #40.)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Irvine, CA
> RV-9A tail
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
Is prop dynamic balancing considered a major mod? I was going to take a
friend along on this trip to get it done, as a passenger. Would he be
able to fly back with me after the balancing job?
Thanks
RV-6
N985VU
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Aeroelectric.com |
Has any body else had a problem connecting to "Electric Bob's" website? I
printed off a document on it last week and haven't been able to connect
since.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (fuse)
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroelectric.com |
I just talked to Bob yesterday and asked him if his internet host/provider
has a problem. They do. He said he has not been able to do anything since
last Thursday. Today, Monday he was going to seek out a new provider that
hopefully will provide continous service. It may be a few more days, but he
will be back.
Warren Gretz
Fran Malczynski wrote:
>
> Has any body else had a problem connecting to "Electric Bob's" website? I
> printed off a document on it last week and haven't been able to connect
> since.
>
> Fran Malczynski
> RV6 (fuse)
> Olcott, NY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
I don't think so. They didn't even give me a 337 when I had my Bellanca
done.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
Date: Monday, February 07, 2000 8:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop balance
>
>Is prop dynamic balancing considered a major mod? I was going to take a
>friend along on this trip to get it done, as a passenger. Would he be
>able to fly back with me after the balancing job?
>
>Thanks
>
>RV-6
>N985VU
>Maryland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lessons learned in early flight testing |
>First - a brand new engine (that is a little tight and needs lots of
>cooling) and a brand new (unfamiliar) airplane make for an interesting
>conflict.
I had a day of instruction with Mike Seager Thursday. He wanted me to
lower the nose for a climb airspeed of about 110 to 120 mph. Visibility is
improved, cooling is improved, and the engine is not pressed so hard.
Lycoming says the brand new engine should be flown at 65% to 75% power for
the first 50 hours or until oil consumption stabilizes. This means backing
off appropriately below about 7500 and not going much above that altitude
since 75% can't be applied above.
Congratulations, do you call it the "Peck Bird"?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | populated areas (again) |
I got the bulletin about the "clarification" that in effect removes the
restricion on enroute flight over populated areas, but unfortunately it was
after I got my airworthiness certificate. The bulletin says in effect that
if you got your A/C before the date of the bulletin (May something 1998)
then you are "grandfathered in" and are authorized to fly over populated
areas without modification to your limitations. If it is after that date,
you can have your limitations written without the restriction. The
"in-between" folks, who got the limitations after that date but before
anyone at the FSDO or DAR or whatever found out about the change (e.g. me)
can have their limitations changed, just talk to the DAR or FSDO.
So I go to my DAR and he says he doesn't know about that, will check with
the FSDO. He does and comes back and says "theyre deciding what to do about
it". It seems pretty straigtforward to me but I keep quiet and wait. Don't
hear from my DAR but subsequently I'm in the FSDO for something else and ask
them about it, which promopts a dissertation on this and other things not
necessarily related, but the upshot is they've been waiting on instructions
from the "home office" about what to do and they finally got word back about
the specific 'i's that need to be dotted and 't's that need to be crossed,
so they can do it and here's an application for you to reapply for your
airworthiness certificate because of course if we change the operating
limitations your A/C will have to point to the new ones....!
Kind of burns me up -- anyone have similar or different experience? Sure
wish they'd extend the grandfather period since so few people evidently got
the word for a couple of years. I emailed this to EAA about a week ago but
didn't hear back.
The guy at the FSDO did say that really, no one cares whether you fly over
populated areas or not....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (60hrs, down for paint)(still)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | 1250 Mile Range Mod |
Not really you need to get the rings pushed hard out against the cylinder
walls. This is accomplished by high pressure in the cylinder.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 1250 Mile Range Mod
Bryan, would these type of problems be remedied by using an adjustable cowl
vent to retain engine heat in the proper range? Andy Johnson, -8 wings.
>If it is a new engine that you are running at low power settings the engine
will not break in correctly and you will have a high oil consumption. I
have found in the field that Lycoming makes these engines to run to TBO wide
open (although we don't do that). I hardly ever run an engine below 75%.
The problems that I see from low power settings are: Increased oil
consumption, Fouled plugs, Sticking valves, and cylinders that rarely make
it to TBO without having to be pulled off and gone thru.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Snap-in replacements for engine monitors |
I would think it would be easier and cheaper to just buy a second
MicroMonitor. That way you are assured it will just plug right in. Who
knows, if you tell a good story, maybe they will even loan you one until
yours is repaired.
Ted
RV-4
finishing kit
(going with Grand Rapids EIS4000)
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Date: Monday, February 07, 2000 11:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Snap-in replacements for engine monitors
>
>I had a thought this weekend and I just knew that you guys could help me
>think this thing through. I have been trying to decide whether to go with
>traditional engine instruments or go with Rocky Mountain's MicroMonitor or
>Grand Rapids' EIS. I've been reading though the archives and one of the
>arguments against using these units is that if they break, you don't have
>the required instrumentation to fly. So what I was wondering is, how
>feasible would it be to create a small panel with a tach, oil pres/temp,
and
>fuel gauge on it that would plug into the empty be left by the broken
>MicroMonitor? The idea being that I could still fly while the box was
>being repaired. I figured I'd probably have to buy a separate Hobbs meter
>to keep track of engine time. If I buy electrical versions of these gauges
>will they work with the sending units that the MicroMonitor uses? Would
the
>FAA bless this unholy arrangement? Just an idea I was kicking around.
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Ginn" <idavant(at)zip.com.au> |
| Subject: | Corrosion Proofing |
Hello Ted,
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Lemen, Ted Ce"
>
> I find it hard to believe that Van doesn't use a primer. I always heard
that
> he likes Veriprime.
Ken at Van's said to me that if you lived near the sea and had to leave the
plane outside, consider corrosion proofing, but did not specify what type.
I'm considering BMS 10-11 which is a Boeing product so it should be good.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Countersink cutters |
I ordered the #41 csink cutter from Avery. I'll let you know if I
experience a similar problem.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter laurence [SMTP:plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 5:33 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Countersink cutters
Mark,
The same happened to me!
I had the three blade cutter and the pilot is too big. There is a
single
blade cutter that seemed to work well.
Peter
> I ordered a #40 size countersink cutter from Avery, but the pilot
is
> slightly wider than the holes I've been drilling with a #40 bit. A
> 3/32" rivet will fit in these holes just fine, but I have to force
> the countersink cutter into the hole. As you'd expect, when I'm
done
> countersinking, the hole is quite a bit wider than the original
#40
> hole. Is this normal, or did I somehow get a countersink with an
> enlarged pilot? (No, I'm not using a #30 countersink. I also have
one
> of those and it is definitely larger than my #40.)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> Irvine, CA
> RV-9A tail
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
I've got an R.C. Allen electric turn & bank indicator for sale. It's in
perfect condition, I'm only selling it because I replaced it with an
autopilot. $300, shipping included. First reply OFF LIST to
ebundy(at)micron.net takes it.
Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | In-line filters(Long) |
Have been following the recent posts re gascolators, in-line filters and
different fuel systems and would like to pass on my personal experience on
this subject for what it is worth.
In the sixty years I have been flying I have never had a single instance of
fuel starvation due to water, or foreign material in fuel. My time is
probably in the area of half carb. and half fuel injected and includes most
types of horizontally opposed and radials up to the P&W R2800 as well as
around 700 hours behind the Packard Merlin in the P51.
Most of these aircraft had just the basic fuel systems. In the small high
wing nothing more than a wing tank drains and a gascolator and possibly a
screen in the carb. The low wings , tank drains , gascolator and carb.
screen.Those with fuel injection basically the same with a screen in the
throttle body.
My fuel delivery sources included everything from the best at major
airports to ten year old fuel out of barrels in the arctic. I think the
main reason for no trouble was a strict set of rules I have lived by,
before every flight drain tank drains(preferably in to a clear sight fuel
tester ) the presence of any water could indicate a contaminated source or
water getting by filler caps if parked outside, drain gascolator. Doing
this before every flight might seem like a pain but it only takes one shot
of bad fuel to cause a force landing and five minutes is ample time to do
it with the gascolator located at the wing root area. If I had not followed
this procedure I know of several instances where I would have had an engine
failure.
Refueling from barrels has to be done with a funnel and approved filter
such as a felt hat type or chamois. Some types of felt filters are not
approved for fuel injection.
Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6 and 6A
as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect both
tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator installed in
the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side ahead of
the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator in the
same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the bottom
fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved the
gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
handy to drain and to have it low enough that it can be drained without the
boost pump on. All that is required is to have the fuel selector on.
I have since converted the RV6 to Bendix fuel injection and am currently
working on a Air Fow performance system for the 6A substituting the Facet
pump for the Air Flow Pump. Ahead of the firewall the only other filtering
is the screens in the carb. or throttle body wichever is the case. The Air
Flow Performance throttle body has no screen but uses a specially designed
inline filter in its place.
Will post my reasons for going fuel injected in another post in the next
few days.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. 6A coming out of the jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey A. Hawkins" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
Hmmm... Your web page says you would buy the Baffle Kit next time... ;
)
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
>
> >
> > By all means, buy it. The baffles are a pain in the rear with the kit, but
> > could not imagine doing it without the kit. With out the right forming
> > tools I can't see making the baffles yourself.
>
> I made my baffles myself and would do it again after seeing the fitting
> problems my hangar mate had with his baffle kit. Mine fit just fine. The
> baffles were easy to make, I did need to get the baffle instructions to figure
> out how all the little pieces fit. The hard part was fabricating the aluminum
> plenum cover, this can be seen at http://www.geocities.com/zilik
>
> Gary Zilik RV-6A final inspection in the morning
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Joy Mosley" <mosley(at)sedona.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Corrosion Proofing |
Bill,
Maybe we are confusing the priming of steel parts with priming under
exterior finish . In the Rviator back in '91 there is a reference to self
etching primers for steel parts before assembling, Marhyde #5111 work great,
but is no longer available from Avery, I found SEM brand at my automotive
paint center.
There is a article in '92 about Bill Brown using Veriprime, personally, I
prefer phosphatizing ( tri-sodium works well) and paint on bare metel unless
you need a filler.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | F/S RV6 C/S Spinner Kit |
For Sale complete, and unused Vans spinner kit for RV6 with C/S prop.
Includes fiberglass dome, bulkheads, hardware, and instructions. Vans
price is $110, I will take $90 and pay shipping UPS Ground, with no
crateing charges. E-mail me off- list if interested.
Chris Brooks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler overhaul |
Can anybody recommend a shop that overhauls oil coolers?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler overhaul |
Pacific Oil Cooler Service
El Monte, CA 1-800-866-7665
Ed Cole
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete & Delee Bodie <pjbodie(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 9:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler overhaul
Can anybody recommend a shop that overhauls oil coolers?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
Hi Ed,
I have some of my baffles back off and I have complete kit
instructions. You can borrow either tho I hope to reinstall and fly *VERY*
soon!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Evan Johnson tanks |
Listers,
Just wanted say that I had Evan Johnson build my fuel tanks and he did an
excellent job. The tanks fit perfectly on my wing and the workmanship is
outstanding.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RV-6 fuse done and finished, doing wings right now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
Hal,
I need them for the 200hp angle valve io-360
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: BAFFLE TEMPLATES
Hi Ed,
I have some of my baffles back off and I have complete kit
instructions. You can borrow either tho I hope to reinstall and fly *VERY*
soon!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
Re-post of "In Line Filters"
ebowhay(at)shuswap.net on 02/07/2000 11:20:59 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: In-line filters(Long)
Have been following the recent posts re gascolators, in-line filters and
different fuel systems and would like to pass on my personal experience on
this subject for what it is worth.
In the sixty years I have been flying I have never had a single instance of
fuel starvation due to water, or foreign material in fuel. My time is
probably in the area of half carb. and half fuel injected and includes most
types of horizontally opposed and radials up to the P&W R2800 as well as
around 700 hours behind the Packard Merlin in the P51.
Most of these aircraft had just the basic fuel systems. In the small high
wing nothing more than a wing tank drains and a gascolator and possibly a
screen in the carb. The low wings , tank drains , gascolator and carb.
screen.Those with fuel injection basically the same with a screen in the
throttle body.
My fuel delivery sources included everything from the best at major
airports to ten year old fuel out of barrels in the arctic. I think the
main reason for no trouble was a strict set of rules I have lived by,
before every flight drain tank drains(preferably in to a clear sight fuel
tester ) the presence of any water could indicate a contaminated source or
water getting by filler caps if parked outside, drain gascolator. Doing
this before every flight might seem like a pain but it only takes one shot
of bad fuel to cause a force landing and five minutes is ample time to do
it with the gascolator located at the wing root area. If I had not followed
this procedure I know of several instances where I would have had an engine
failure.
Refueling from barrels has to be done with a funnel and approved filter
such as a felt hat type or chamois. Some types of felt filters are not
approved for fuel injection.
Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6 and 6A
as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect both
tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator installed in
the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side ahead of
the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator in the
same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the bottom
fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved the
gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
handy to drain and to have it low enough that it can be drained without the
boost pump on. All that is required is to have the fuel selector on.
I have since converted the RV6 to Bendix fuel injection and am currently
working on a Air Fow performance system for the 6A substituting the Facet
pump for the Air Flow Pump. Ahead of the firewall the only other filtering
is the screens in the carb. or throttle body wichever is the case. The Air
Flow Performance throttle body has no screen but uses a specially designed
inline filter in its place.
Will post my reasons for going fuel injected in another post in the next
few days.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. 6A coming out of the jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
YES!
>From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Prop balance
>Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 20:42:09 -0500
>
>
>Is prop dynamic balancing considered a major mod? I was going to take a
>friend along on this trip to get it done, as a passenger. Would he be
>able to fly back with me after the balancing job?
>
>Thanks
>
>RV-6
>N985VU
>Maryland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BAFFLE TEMPLATES |
Jeffrey A. Hawkins wrote:
>
> Hmmm... Your web page says you would buy the Baffle Kit next time... ;
)
>
Yes it does. That statement was made before I saw the fitting problems my hangar
mate had with Van's kit. I had even talked him into buying the kit.
Gary Zilik RV-6A N99PZ First flight made this morning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
Soorry, Hit the send button a bit fast. This is not a major alteration or
repair and YES, take your friend along.
Mike
>From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop balance
>Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 12:08:33 HST
>
>
>YES!
>
>
> >From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Prop balance
> >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 20:42:09 -0500
> >
> >
> >Is prop dynamic balancing considered a major mod? I was going to take a
> >friend along on this trip to get it done, as a passenger. Would he be
> >able to fly back with me after the balancing job?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >RV-6
> >N985VU
> >Maryland
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler overhaul |
I heartily recommend Pacific Oil Coolers in El Monte Ca. Ask for Sked.
He's a wealth of knowledge and they have some of the best prices. I ordered
a refurbished S&W 8406R I had it overnight for no extra charge.
Phone # 800 866-7665
Ed Perry RV-8 80809
edperry64(at)netzero.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete & Delee Bodie <pjbodie(at)home.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler overhaul
>
>Can anybody recommend a shop that overhauls oil coolers?
>
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
Yes and no. It is a major alteration unless the prop or engine manufacturer
gives data (instructions) on how to do it(on standard category aircraft).
Good news is that you are experimental so the 337 that would be required
does not apply.
-----Original Message-----
From: wvu(at)ameritel.net <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Date: Monday, February 07, 2000 7:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop balance
>
>Is prop dynamic balancing considered a major mod? I was going to take a
>friend along on this trip to get it done, as a passenger. Would he be
>able to fly back with me after the balancing job?
>
>Thanks
>
>RV-6
>N985VU
>Maryland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
Should have.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Date: Monday, February 07, 2000 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop balance
>
>I don't think so. They didn't even give me a 337 when I had my Bellanca
>done.
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, February 07, 2000 8:38 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Prop balance
>
>
>>
>>Is prop dynamic balancing considered a major mod? I was going to take a
>>friend along on this trip to get it done, as a passenger. Would he be
>>able to fly back with me after the balancing job?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>RV-6
>>N985VU
>>Maryland
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | N99PZ First Flight |
--- Gary Zilik wrote:
---------- snip ---------
>
> Gary Zilik RV-6A N99PZ First flight made this
> morning
>
Gary:
Congratulations!
I guess I must be the only one to see your signature
file in the baffles template response.
Hope to see you at Oshkosh again but this time with
your plane.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Edmondson" <tazman(at)lakemartin.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV-6 Kit Forsale |
> RV-6 Empenage and Wing kit for sale. The empenage kit is 95% complete. The
> wing kit which has the Phlogiston spar has been uncrated but not touched
> since. Both kits are before the pre-punched era. Does not have electric
trim
> or any other options. I am located in east central Alabama, 120 miles
> southwest of Atlanta. Will sell both kits for $4900.00. Bought a Stearman.
> If you need more info, e-mail or call me.
> Joe Edmondson
> 256-825-8929
> tazman(at)lakemartin.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 Oil screen |
Hi gang,
After loosing 8ZZ on Christmas day, I have looked at quite a few RV-4's
that are for sale. I recently saw a nice candidate Air Flow injected
IO-360. This is an expertly built aircraft with a beautifully finished
interior and exterior. She was built with a Christen inverted oil system,
but has no Oil Filter or Gascolater. Instead, there is the Air Flow
Performance in-line fuel filter and only a stock Lycoming oil screen on the
back of the engine. Do people still use only oil screens? I usually change
oil every 25 hrs. Is this OK with an Oil Screen? Does anyone have other
recommendations? It looks awfully crowded to put a remote filter...But I
would if necessary.
Louis
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Electrical panel |
Check out this site.
I don't believe I have seen it before.
Control Vision has PC integrated boards with breaker/switches installed. Seem
like simple installation.
Let me know what you think as I am not the expert on these things.
Web site: http://www.controlvision.com/frame.cfm?link=avionics.htm
John Danielson
Finishing wing/ starting fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Keith Hughes , Lew Dennis ,
"William S. Blair" ,
Roy & Elaine Zilik , Mad Dog ,
Jim & Vicki Baker ,
Frank and Gail Hancock ,
Gary Zilik ,
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | It Flies, It Flies, N99PZ flies |
Just a quick note to keep you up to date. 99PZ passed muster and
received a Special Airworthiness Certificate on Monday. I ended up
using Terry Edwards (long story) for the inspection which took about 3
hours. It took the rest of the day to put the airframe back together.
If I ever find the guy who put all the screws in, I'll wring his neck.
Dawn arrived this morning and I had not slept a single minute. I kept
thinking, "Good, I wont have to fly today because I'm to tired". No
such luck. Denis Walsh was gracious enough to let me sit in the left
seat of his 6A N133DW and rehearse the flight plan for 99PZ I had run
out of excuses to stay on the ground and taxied over to the fuel pumps
and added enough 100LL to get a half load of fuel. After again going
over the prescribe flight I buckled in and taxied to the run-up area
at the end of 26. The run-up was normal so I took the active and did
a high speed taxi test. No shimmy and I could raise the nose so it was
now time for the real thing. I taxied back to the end of 26, lined up
on the center line and smoothly fed in the power. I was nearing
rotation speed and I looked at the tach only to see about 1800 rpm.
Not enough, so I aborted the takeoff.
I'm using the Sensenich 72FM fixed pitch prop on an O-360-A1A and
expected to see a little more rpm than 1800 on takeoff. I taxied back
to the bewildered crowd and explained my dilemma. Is 1800 enough?
What should we/I do? Finally a good reason to stay on the ground (can
you say nervous?) Someone said "Call Van's" and a Cell phone was
handed to me.
I explained my problem to Scott Risen. He wanted to know what the
manifold pressure was. I never looked and didn't know. He said if I
could get full MP (25" at FTG") during a static run-up and 1800-2100
rpm it would fly.
Back to the end of the runway for a full power static run. I could get
2200 rpm and 25" MP. Guess I have to fly. (I'm still nervous) I took
the active and firewalled the throttled, 25" of MP and about 2000 rpm
this time. I held back pressure on the stick to raise the nose wheel a
bit (I could hear Mike Seager's voice in the background) and noted 60
mph indicated at liftoff.
I climbed out at 120 planning to orbit the field at 6900' or 100 '
below Class B. This would give me 400' separation for the 172's in the
pattern below. I was at 6900' when I turned downwind and kept it
firewalled as I leveled off. With no wheel pants, gear leg or
intersection fairings 99PZ accelerated to 170 mph indicated at 2650
rpm and 23" MP. I flew a wide pattern and at 170 it sure gobbles up
the real estate in a hurry.
After a few circuits of the field it was time to land. Slowing down
the FP prop from 170 to 100 seemed to take for ever. I was going to do
a no flap 1st landing but the idle was set a little fast and the FP
prop just kept pulling me along at a slow sink rate. I dropped the
first notch of flaps at 100 and when still a little high on turning
final I decided I needed all 40 degrees. Full flaps helped the sink
rate and I made a pretty good 1st landing if I may say so myself. I
made the first intersection and turned off and waved at my loving wife
(and chief riviter) and then the whole thrill of the moment set in.
Now I know what the RV Grin is all about. Keep building boys and
girls.
A post flight inspection showed some oil on the belly and a little
near the left cowl inlet. After removing the cowl and plenum cover the
culprit was found. The plug replacing the constant speed prop oil
feed was only slightly tighter than finger tight. The amount of oil
lost was imperceptible on the dip stick and none dripped on the ramp
so it was not a bad leak, but it could have gotten worse had I flown
longer. Another good reason first flights should be limited to 15-20
minutes. Mine was 15 minutes.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ - or the RV formerly known as s/n 22993 - First flight
Feb. 8, 2000 - .25 hr total time
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | first flight N17325 |
Hi listers.
Frank Hoover is not on the list, but I thought I'd pass on a first flight last
week of his RV-8, N17325. His instrument panel is featured on Steve Davis'
(PanelCut) website.
Some particulars (IIRC):
kit #80009
Aero Sport O-360 with "h" pistons and CS prop
Control Visions electrical system
Dual Jeff Rose electronic ignition (with standby battery behind the right gear
tower)
15 gallon aux tank in the rear baggage compartment, plumbed through the fuel
selector
Grand Rapids EIS
Aluminum gear (I forget the vendor, but they are a claimed 17# lighter)
"yellow peril" paint job like the factory demonstrators
"sheared" wingtips with integral nav/landing lights
Empty weight approx 1080#
Early indications are approx 160 knots at 23"/2300 rpm without wheel pants
Frank noted that yellow paint doesn't cover well, and he wishes somebody had
told him to paint it white first, then yellow. He has 6 (!) coats on most of
the airplane.
Oh yeah, and he's grinning
James Freeman
RV-8Q fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Jim;
I mulled over the same question recently too. My
Sterba has given 4 years of great service but is aging
quickly. A friend of mine in PHX removed his wood prop
recently in favor of heavy metal, and sent it back
after one flight. VIBRATION was noticeably higher. So
back to the wood. However, Mark Spry, a -4 driver in
AL has a fixed pitch Sensy metal and had it balanced
at a prop shop prior to installation with good
results. Your call. I am holding out for the Global
QCS caron fiber prop out of MS. See ya.
Smokey
--- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> Maj, AF/XOOT"
>
> Awesome. Anyone help here: Currently I have a
> Sterba prop on my RV-4. It
> has been excellent and provides consistent 1900 fpm
> climb and 192 mph
> cruise. Following my flight yesterday, I was
> noticing that the wood prop is
> developing some hair line cracks midway up the blade
> on one side toward the
> leading edge. Long story short, I'm debating
> switching to a metal Sensinich
> (Sp?) propeller on my O-320 150hp RV-4. Anyone out
> there done the switch?
> What is involved (paper work and hand work) and is
> the metal prop BETTER
> performing than the wood prop? I do use my RV for
> acro but seem to (so far)
> have the discipline to NOT over RPM the engine!!!
>
> Jj
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2000 5:47 PM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> Dude;
>
> Flew mine out to the coast the other day and saw a
> bunch of whales, landed at a couple of cool
> beachfront
> airports and generally made a nuisance of myself.
> NoCal has alot to see and do especially if you have
> an
> airplane. Every airport it seems has a cafe with
> decent grub. Alot of RV's out there too. I'm in Bama
> this weekend flying the viper...
>
> BJRB
>
> --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> >
> > Not yet Dude. I haven't even been down to my
> > beloved -4 in four weeks.
> > I've been stuck up here, mostly stuck in SNOW.
> Keep
> > it flying Smokey...I'm
> > jealous!
> >
> > Jj
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 1:53 PM
> > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> >
> >
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> >
> > It's a small hole, not too expensive....Just don't
> > use
> > the word Nee. How's life at the puzzle palace? I
> > have
> > been digging Southwest and flying up and down the
> > Northen Cal coast. Alot of neat places to go out
> > here.
> > I still go back to Bama to fly the viper, but
> that's
> > getting old real fast. I guess I'm spoiled. You
> get
> > your cowling fixed?
> >
> > Smokey
> >
> > --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> > wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> > > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> > >
> > > Rob,
> > >
> > > Another question one could ask is what happens
> to
> > > the structural integrity
> > > of the roll bar with a rather large hole drilled
> > > through it supporting the
> > > pin?
> > >
> > > Of course, as my old instructor used to say, "At
> > > this point your luck has
> > > been quite miserable. What makes you think it's
> > > about to change. S---
> > > happens!"
> > >
> > > Jj
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:16 PM
> > > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> > >
> > >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> > >
> > >
> > > Rion;'
> > >
> > >
> > > I'll try to take a photo for you. First,
> several
> > > egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
> > > presented in the RV4. I have been flying the
> F-16
> > > for
> > > 12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the
> > -4
> > > except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the
> rear
> > > and
> > > is electrically raised and lowered. It is
> > > explosively
> > > jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
> > > automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
> > > recommends ejection over "riding out" an off
> > runway
> > > excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main
> gear
> > > failure and flipped over, trapping him for three
> > > hours
> > > until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the
> > > THREE
> > > inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and
> > free
> > > him. A fire would have made a different ending
> to
> > > the
> > > story.
> > > As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary
> > RV3
> > > pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff
> > putting
> > > him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a
> > sliding
> > > canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted
> > the
> > > airplane. He was so humbled by the experience
> that
> > > he
> > > redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable,
> > installed
> > > a
> > > BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield
> again.
> > > With
> > > 500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say
> that
> > if
> > > anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
> > > otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up,
> I
> > > am
> > > jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
> > > locking pin, you simply reach over your left
> > > shoulder,
> > > pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the
> canopy.
> > > In
> > > normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply
> > pull
> > > the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and
> slide
> > > the
> > > pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a
> tear
> > > away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel
> with
> > > aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I
> > need
> > > to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when
> > > it's
> > > shut, it won't blow open.
> > >
> > > Rob
> > >
> > > --- RION BOURGEOIS
> wrote:
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION
> BOURGEOIS"
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler overhaul |
Pacific Oil Coolers
1430 Chico Ave.
So. ElMonte, Ca, 91733
800-866-7335
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pete & Delee
Bodie
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 8:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler overhaul
Can anybody recommend a shop that overhauls oil coolers?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | IO-360 Oil screen |
I prefer oil screens better. I think that 25 hours is plenty on oil before
a change is needed and I have seen many problems with oil filters...Keeps
less hoses to fail also.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Louis Willig
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 2:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 Oil screen
Hi gang,
After loosing 8ZZ on Christmas day, I have looked at quite a few RV-4's
that are for sale. I recently saw a nice candidate Air Flow injected
IO-360. This is an expertly built aircraft with a beautifully finished
interior and exterior. She was built with a Christen inverted oil system,
but has no Oil Filter or Gascolater. Instead, there is the Air Flow
Performance in-line fuel filter and only a stock Lycoming oil screen on the
back of the engine. Do people still use only oil screens? I usually change
oil every 25 hrs. Is this OK with an Oil Screen? Does anyone have other
recommendations? It looks awfully crowded to put a remote filter...But I
would if necessary.
Louis
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Oil screen |
>
>
>Hi gang,
>
>After loosing 8ZZ on Christmas day, I have looked at quite a few RV-4's
>that are for sale. I recently saw a nice candidate Air Flow injected
>IO-360. This is an expertly built aircraft with a beautifully finished
>interior and exterior. She was built with a Christen inverted oil system,
>but has no Oil Filter or Gascolater. Instead, there is the Air Flow
>Performance in-line fuel filter and only a stock Lycoming oil screen on the
>back of the engine. Do people still use only oil screens? I usually change
>oil every 25 hrs. Is this OK with an Oil Screen? Does anyone have other
>recommendations? It looks awfully crowded to put a remote filter...But I
>would if necessary.
>
>Louis
Louis,
I used the oil screen on my O-360 for the first 25 hours of my test period.
No complaints, except for the mess taking it off to inspect and clean the
screen! Yuck. I found a Lycoming spin on oil filter adapter at Copperstate
and bought it. Well, after pulling that screen housing off just that one
time, I decided to intall the adapter RIGHT NOW. It was an easy conversion
and the oil temp probe and vernatherm fit perfectly. Many folks use the oil
screens and a 25 hour oil change interval is recommended by Lycoming for
this setup. You can go 50 hours with a filter, but I personally plan to do
it sooner than that. An A&P at my airport recommended slipping a zip lock
bag over the filter as you remove it to catch most of the drips. Sounds
like a neat idea.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti VanderSchuur" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical panel |
Rebuilt my panel a year ago and installed the Controlvision integrated
board. Clean design, easy to install, works as advertised. After seeing
mine, two other builders on the field bot for their projects. During the
year the company has also updated the product line a couple times.
Progress.
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 5:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electrical panel
>
>Check out this site.
>I don't believe I have seen it before.
>Control Vision has PC integrated boards with breaker/switches
stalled. -snip-
>Web site: http://www.controlvision.com/frame.cfm?link=avionics.htm
===========================================================
>
>
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark delano <mdelano(at)mho.net> |
| Subject: | Re: It Flies, It Flies, N99PZ flies |
Gary: Congratulations I now how you feel it is almost better than the
wedding night.
Mark
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> Just a quick note to keep you up to date. 99PZ passed muster and
> received a Special Airworthiness Certificate on Monday. I ended up
> using Terry Edwards (long story) for the inspection which took about 3
> hours. It took the rest of the day to put the airframe back together.
> If I ever find the guy who put all the screws in, I'll wring his neck.
>
> Dawn arrived this morning and I had not slept a single minute. I kept
> thinking, "Good, I wont have to fly today because I'm to tired". No
> such luck. Denis Walsh was gracious enough to let me sit in the left
> seat of his 6A N133DW and rehearse the flight plan for 99PZ I had run
> out of excuses to stay on the ground and taxied over to the fuel pumps
> and added enough 100LL to get a half load of fuel. After again going
> over the prescribe flight I buckled in and taxied to the run-up area
> at the end of 26. The run-up was normal so I took the active and did
> a high speed taxi test. No shimmy and I could raise the nose so it was
> now time for the real thing. I taxied back to the end of 26, lined up
> on the center line and smoothly fed in the power. I was nearing
> rotation speed and I looked at the tach only to see about 1800 rpm.
> Not enough, so I aborted the takeoff.
>
> I'm using the Sensenich 72FM fixed pitch prop on an O-360-A1A and
> expected to see a little more rpm than 1800 on takeoff. I taxied back
> to the bewildered crowd and explained my dilemma. Is 1800 enough?
> What should we/I do? Finally a good reason to stay on the ground (can
> you say nervous?) Someone said "Call Van's" and a Cell phone was
> handed to me.
>
> I explained my problem to Scott Risen. He wanted to know what the
> manifold pressure was. I never looked and didn't know. He said if I
> could get full MP (25" at FTG") during a static run-up and 1800-2100
> rpm it would fly.
>
> Back to the end of the runway for a full power static run. I could get
> 2200 rpm and 25" MP. Guess I have to fly. (I'm still nervous) I took
> the active and firewalled the throttled, 25" of MP and about 2000 rpm
> this time. I held back pressure on the stick to raise the nose wheel a
> bit (I could hear Mike Seager's voice in the background) and noted 60
> mph indicated at liftoff.
>
> I climbed out at 120 planning to orbit the field at 6900' or 100 '
> below Class B. This would give me 400' separation for the 172's in the
> pattern below. I was at 6900' when I turned downwind and kept it
> firewalled as I leveled off. With no wheel pants, gear leg or
> intersection fairings 99PZ accelerated to 170 mph indicated at 2650
> rpm and 23" MP. I flew a wide pattern and at 170 it sure gobbles up
> the real estate in a hurry.
>
> After a few circuits of the field it was time to land. Slowing down
> the FP prop from 170 to 100 seemed to take for ever. I was going to do
> a no flap 1st landing but the idle was set a little fast and the FP
> prop just kept pulling me along at a slow sink rate. I dropped the
> first notch of flaps at 100 and when still a little high on turning
> final I decided I needed all 40 degrees. Full flaps helped the sink
> rate and I made a pretty good 1st landing if I may say so myself. I
> made the first intersection and turned off and waved at my loving wife
> (and chief riviter) and then the whole thrill of the moment set in.
>
> Now I know what the RV Grin is all about. Keep building boys and
> girls.
>
> A post flight inspection showed some oil on the belly and a little
> near the left cowl inlet. After removing the cowl and plenum cover the
> culprit was found. The plug replacing the constant speed prop oil
> feed was only slightly tighter than finger tight. The amount of oil
> lost was imperceptible on the dip stick and none dripped on the ramp
> so it was not a bad leak, but it could have gotten worse had I flown
> longer. Another good reason first flights should be limited to 15-20
> minutes. Mine was 15 minutes.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A N99PZ - or the RV formerly known as s/n 22993 - First flight
> Feb. 8, 2000 - .25 hr total time
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Oil screen |
I personally hate inspecting that oil screen every 25 Hrs. so the solution
is to call up B&C products and install their oil filter adapter..cost is
around $390. Absolutely no problems with it, because it is so simple and
takes around 30 min to install. It is not a remote filter but angles the
filter up so it is out of the way. B&C number is 316-283-8000.
C.H.
----------
> From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: IO-360 Oil screen
> Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 5:24 PM
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> After loosing 8ZZ on Christmas day, I have looked at quite a few RV-4's
> that are for sale. I recently saw a nice candidate Air Flow injected
> IO-360. This is an expertly built aircraft with a beautifully finished
> interior and exterior. She was built with a Christen inverted oil system,
> but has no Oil Filter or Gascolater. Instead, there is the Air Flow
> Performance in-line fuel filter and only a stock Lycoming oil screen on
the
> back of the engine. Do people still use only oil screens? I usually
change
> oil every 25 hrs. Is this OK with an Oil Screen? Does anyone have other
> recommendations? It looks awfully crowded to put a remote filter...But I
> would if necessary.
>
> Louis
>
> Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
> larywil(at)home.com
> (610) 668-4964
> Philadelphia, PA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft names (came from: Lessons learned in early flight testing) |
Hal (& list)
You asked: "do you call it the "Peck Bird"?
N110KB hasn't quite earned a nickname yet. I've seen Larry Pardue mention
in his posts that his -6 is working on earning "Trouble" for a name (hope
this is easing up, Larry!), and one of our local (Pueblo, CO) RV-4 pilots
claims his earned "Shims" for the nose art.
We're still letting our -6A convince us of an appropriate name. Past
experience with cars, etc. has me convinced that when the right one comes
along, we'll know it...! (Along these lines, I'm wondering if Randy
Pflanzer's might become "Michelangelo" or "Sistine" - it's sure been keeping
him in the painting process for quite a while! Hope you get to join us
aloft pretty soon, Randy!)
Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q) N110KB flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First Flight N468TC |
January 29 at 1400 full power and down the runway I went lifted off and
looked at radio and it is blank,circut breaker open . Closed throttle settled
back on the runway and taxied back to hanger. Put away the plane and went
home and sulked a couple of days, went back to the airport and started to
look for the problem. a small nut had fallen between the radio and strobe
connection. My friend (also a builder) Pulled it out, no more trouble in the
next 5 hours of taxi tests. Had to go to work. off until today 02 08 2000 So
this morning N468TC in the air for one hour and 20 min did not want to come
down. All went well. Too busy enjoying my self to get any real valid
specs. more to come. Commander Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler overhaul |
Here's a link for Pacific Oil Cooler:
http://www.oilcoolers.com/default.htm
Highly recommended.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling horizontal stabilizer to longerons |
I couldn't find anything in the archives on this, so maybe I'm the first
person to ever have a problem with this.
After aligning and levelling the HS, holes must be drilled through the HS814
into the longerons and the F-810C reinforcement angle. The holes are to be
located 15/32" from the forward edge of HS814. This places their center
about 1/4" aft of the front edge of the overlying HS610 angle. Looks like a
difficult place to get accurate 3/16" diameter holes drilled.
I'm thinking of using a #40 flexible aircraft drill to locate the centers,
then disassembling the empennage and shims from the fuselage and final
drilling all components on a bench, then reassembling and hoping that
everything still lines up.
Am I missing something? Is there an easier way to do this?
George Kilishek
#80006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
-thought I would throw out an idea to see what the more experienced types
say. After fooling around with my RLI imitation I decided I liked having a
very accurate ASI for the 40-80mph range. The real ASI has but 3/8" sweep
for the 40-60mph range and the needle jumps around enough to always want to
fly a bit faster just in case. The documentation with the new gauge says
it can handle being pegged after 80mph. Has anyone tried this? The Dwyer
pressure differential gauge has 90 degrees of sweep reading zero to 3" of
water column, with stall at the 0.5" mark. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling horizontal stabilizer to longerons |
They are difficult. Mine came out elongated. I did not have a 90 degree
drill attachment when I did it. That would solve the problem. Avery has an
inexpensive one that works great.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 11:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling horizontal stabilizer to longerons
>
> I couldn't find anything in the archives on this, so maybe I'm the first
> person to ever have a problem with this.
>
> After aligning and levelling the HS, holes must be drilled through the
HS814
> into the longerons and the F-810C reinforcement angle. The holes are to
be
> located 15/32" from the forward edge of HS814. This places their center
> about 1/4" aft of the front edge of the overlying HS610 angle. Looks like
a
> difficult place to get accurate 3/16" diameter holes drilled.
>
> I'm thinking of using a #40 flexible aircraft drill to locate the centers,
> then disassembling the empennage and shims from the fuselage and final
> drilling all components on a bench, then reassembling and hoping that
> everything still lines up.
>
> Am I missing something? Is there an easier way to do this?
>
> George Kilishek
> #80006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling horizontal stabilizer to longerons |
> I couldn't find anything in the archives on this, so maybe I'm the first
> person to ever have a problem with this.
>
> After aligning and levelling the HS, holes must be drilled through the
HS814
> into the longerons and the F-810C reinforcement angle. The holes are to
be
> located 15/32" from the forward edge of HS814. This places their center
> about 1/4" aft of the front edge of the overlying HS610 angle. Looks like
a
> difficult place to get accurate 3/16" diameter holes drilled.
>
> I'm thinking of using a #40 flexible aircraft drill to locate the centers,
> then disassembling the empennage and shims from the fuselage and final
> drilling all components on a bench, then reassembling and hoping that
> everything still lines up.
>
> Am I missing something? Is there an easier way to do this?
>
> George Kilishek
> #80006
George,
There are a couple of ways you can accomplish this. Perhaps the easiest is
just to also drill a hole through the HS-810 which is direction above the
814 that lays on the longerons. If you have an angle drill another way is to
draw a line on the plate along the fwd edge of the 814. Then remove the HS,
mark your hole the proper distance back from the edge, drill the holes
through the longerons etc., replace the HS, clamp in position, and use your
angle drill to backdrill the 814 from the inside. This is what I did...
worked great and was very quick. I just couldn't warm up to drilling the
extra holes in the 810 even though that's what Van's suggested.
Randy Lervold
#80500, won the battle with the canopy skirt :-)
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N468TC |
Congratulations Terry. I got mine in the air today. Great feeling to finally get
flying.
Gary Zilik
6A N99PZ .25 hr. total time
TColeE(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> January 29 at 1400 full power and down the runway I went lifted off and
> looked at radio and it is blank,circut breaker open . Closed throttle settled
> back on the runway and taxied back to hanger. Put away the plane and went
> home and sulked a couple of days, went back to the airport and started to
> look for the problem. a small nut had fallen between the radio and strobe
> connection. My friend (also a builder) Pulled it out, no more trouble in the
> next 5 hours of taxi tests. Had to go to work. off until today 02 08 2000 So
> this morning N468TC in the air for one hour and 20 min did not want to come
> down. All went well. Too busy enjoying my self to get any real valid
> specs. more to come. Commander Terry E. Cole N468TC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6bldr(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft names (came from: Lessons learned in early flight |
testing)
My wife calls my -6 project "Little Huzzy". When I come home from work,
she usually asks me if I'm going to spend time with that "Little Huzzy"
tonight out in the garage! So, I feel it's only appropriate that I put
her name on her nose.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
Kathy & Bill Peck wrote:
>
>
> Hal (& list)
>
> You asked: "do you call it the "Peck Bird"?
>
> N110KB hasn't quite earned a nickname yet. I've seen Larry Pardue mention
> in his posts that his -6 is working on earning "Trouble" for a name (hope
> this is easing up, Larry!), and one of our local (Pueblo, CO) RV-4 pilots
> claims his earned "Shims" for the nose art.
>
> We're still letting our -6A convince us of an appropriate name. Past
> experience with cars, etc. has me convinced that when the right one comes
> along, we'll know it...! (Along these lines, I'm wondering if Randy
> Pflanzer's might become "Michelangelo" or "Sistine" - it's sure been keeping
> him in the painting process for quite a while! Hope you get to join us
> aloft pretty soon, Randy!)
>
> Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q) N110KB flying!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)onramp.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Terra Transponder/Comm, ACK encoder |
Hey Gang;
I received this message from a good friend that lives in the DFW area. Give
it a couple of minutes of your time, it's self explanatory. Seems like a
great deal to me. Many of you know Juan and I'll attest that he is honest
as the day is long. If you can use the stuff please consider contacting
him. Thanks
AL
----- Original Message -----
From: Juan Jimenez <flybd5(at)hotmail.com>
; ;
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 12:04 AM
Subject: Terra Transponder/Comm, ACK encoder
> Folks,
>
> Circumstances force me to sell the avionics I had bought to upgrade my
BD-5.
>
> I have two nieces from Argentina visiting here in Texas, ages 20 and 18,
> whose father (my wife's only brother) only makes about $1000/mo after 25
> years working at a ceramics plant about 350km SW of Buenos Aires. I had
not
> seen the girls since they were small children. From the day they arrived
it
> was clear that they are in dire need of serious dental care (we're talking
> pretty bad gum bleeding and possible bone damage). Since my insurance
won't
> cover it, their dad can't possibly afford it, and it's a pity for two
> otherwise gorgeous girls to walk around with pitiful teeth, I'm going to
> send the wallet to the proverbial sacrificial table and make sure their
> dental problems are taken care of before they go home later on this month.
> That means the avionics go back into circulation until I can buy another
> set.
>
> So... as much as I hate to do this, because it took me a long time to find
> these...
>
> 1) One Terra TX720 720-channel analog comm transceiver with tray and
> harness
>
> 1) One Terra TRT250 analog transponder with tray and harness
>
> 1) One ACK-30 encoder, with tray and harness, wired for TRT 250
>
> All three units guaranteed to be in working condition by
> Nova Avionics out of Northwest Regional Airport here in TX.
>
> I will take the first $1500 (my cost) =and= I will pay shipping via FedEx
to
> anywhere in the world (international customs fees and duties are your
> responsibility).
>
> These units are a steal at this price, particularly the transponder, which
> is known for high reliability, low weight and low current draw.
>
> Regards,
> Juan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" <James.Johnson(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch |
Smokey,
Balancing is VERY important, especially on the light weight of our aircraft.
The prop on my Mooney was balanced and the difference was incredible! I'm
assuming you have to go through the FAA again and get another flight fly-off
restriction for the Airthworthiness Cert again etc. Anyone out there flying
with a metal Sensi on their RV-4?
Besides the obvious benefits of no rain damage and no bolt torqueing, the
weight up front would be helpful for bigger Bubba's in the back, like me
when my wife is flying!
Jj
-----Original Message-----
From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 9:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
--> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
Jim;
I mulled over the same question recently too. My
Sterba has given 4 years of great service but is aging
quickly. A friend of mine in PHX removed his wood prop
recently in favor of heavy metal, and sent it back
after one flight. VIBRATION was noticeably higher. So
back to the wood. However, Mark Spry, a -4 driver in
AL has a fixed pitch Sensy metal and had it balanced
at a prop shop prior to installation with good
results. Your call. I am holding out for the Global
QCS caron fiber prop out of MS. See ya.
Smokey
--- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> Maj, AF/XOOT"
>
> Awesome. Anyone help here: Currently I have a
> Sterba prop on my RV-4. It
> has been excellent and provides consistent 1900 fpm
> climb and 192 mph
> cruise. Following my flight yesterday, I was
> noticing that the wood prop is
> developing some hair line cracks midway up the blade
> on one side toward the
> leading edge. Long story short, I'm debating
> switching to a metal Sensinich
> (Sp?) propeller on my O-320 150hp RV-4. Anyone out
> there done the switch?
> What is involved (paper work and hand work) and is
> the metal prop BETTER
> performing than the wood prop? I do use my RV for
> acro but seem to (so far)
> have the discipline to NOT over RPM the engine!!!
>
> Jj
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2000 5:47 PM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> Dude;
>
> Flew mine out to the coast the other day and saw a
> bunch of whales, landed at a couple of cool
> beachfront
> airports and generally made a nuisance of myself.
> NoCal has alot to see and do especially if you have
> an
> airplane. Every airport it seems has a cafe with
> decent grub. Alot of RV's out there too. I'm in Bama
> this weekend flying the viper...
>
> BJRB
>
> --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> >
> > Not yet Dude. I haven't even been down to my
> > beloved -4 in four weeks.
> > I've been stuck up here, mostly stuck in SNOW.
> Keep
> > it flying Smokey...I'm
> > jealous!
> >
> > Jj
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 1:53 PM
> > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> >
> >
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> >
> > It's a small hole, not too expensive....Just don't
> > use
> > the word Nee. How's life at the puzzle palace? I
> > have
> > been digging Southwest and flying up and down the
> > Northen Cal coast. Alot of neat places to go out
> > here.
> > I still go back to Bama to fly the viper, but
> that's
> > getting old real fast. I guess I'm spoiled. You
> get
> > your cowling fixed?
> >
> > Smokey
> >
> > --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> > wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> > > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> > >
> > > Rob,
> > >
> > > Another question one could ask is what happens
> to
> > > the structural integrity
> > > of the roll bar with a rather large hole drilled
> > > through it supporting the
> > > pin?
> > >
> > > Of course, as my old instructor used to say, "At
> > > this point your luck has
> > > been quite miserable. What makes you think it's
> > > about to change. S---
> > > happens!"
> > >
> > > Jj
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:16 PM
> > > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> > >
> > >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> > >
> > >
> > > Rion;'
> > >
> > >
> > > I'll try to take a photo for you. First,
> several
> > > egress considerations from a canopy aircraft are
> > > presented in the RV4. I have been flying the
> F-16
> > > for
> > > 12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like the
> > -4
> > > except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the
> rear
> > > and
> > > is electrically raised and lowered. It is
> > > explosively
> > > jettisonable with the pull of a T handle, or
> > > automatically during ejection. Our owners manual
> > > recommends ejection over "riding out" an off
> > runway
> > > excursion. One pilot 15 years ago had a main
> gear
> > > failure and flipped over, trapping him for three
> > > hours
> > > until a fireman used a chainsaw to cut open the
> > > THREE
> > > inch thick (400 knot birdproof) plexiglass and
> > free
> > > him. A fire would have made a different ending
> to
> > > the
> > > story.
> > > As RV's go, I have personally rescued one wary
> > RV3
> > > pilot after his -3's engine quit on takeoff
> > putting
> > > him in a soft corfield on his back. He had a
> > sliding
> > > canopy and we couldn't move it until we righted
> > the
> > > airplane. He was so humbled by the experience
> that
> > > he
> > > redesigned his canopy to be jettisonable,
> > installed
> > > a
> > > BRS and vowed never to land in a cornfield
> again.
> > > With
> > > 500 safe hours on my -4 now I can safely say
> that
> > if
> > > anything requiring an off pavement, highway or
> > > otherwise non-prepared surface landing comes up,
> I
> > > am
> > > jettisoning my canopy prior to landing. With the
> > > locking pin, you simply reach over your left
> > > shoulder,
> > > pull the pin forward 2 inches and open the
> canopy.
> > > In
> > > normal circumstances in hot weather, you simply
> > pull
> > > the pin, raise the canopy about 6 inches and
> slide
> > > the
> > > pin aft into the taxi position hole. I have a
> tear
> > > away canopy "restraint" that is made of steel
> with
> > > aluminum bolts. 80 knots should rip it off if I
> > need
> > > to get rid of it. Thats why I like the pin, when
> > > it's
> > > shut, it won't blow open.
> > >
> > > Rob
> > >
> > > --- RION BOURGEOIS
> wrote:
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "RION
> BOURGEOIS"
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <fmalczy(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling horizontal stabilizer to longerons |
This is exactly how I did it on my 6. Used a flexible 12" #40 to pilot drill
the holes and then took the assembly off to a bench to drill holes to 3/16.
For an alternate method, in an old Rv'ator (1st issue 98) Ken talks about
cutting away part of the corners of the F610 angle just enough to get a 3/16
drillbit straight down in to the F614. Seemed to work for him.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (fuse)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: Sally and George <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 2:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling horizontal stabilizer to longerons
>
>I couldn't find anything in the archives on this, so maybe I'm the first
>person to ever have a problem with this.
>
>After aligning and levelling the HS, holes must be drilled through the
HS814
>into the longerons and the F-810C reinforcement angle. The holes are to be
>located 15/32" from the forward edge of HS814. This places their center
>about 1/4" aft of the front edge of the overlying HS610 angle. Looks like
a
>difficult place to get accurate 3/16" diameter holes drilled.
>
>I'm thinking of using a #40 flexible aircraft drill to locate the centers,
>then disassembling the empennage and shims from the fuselage and final
>drilling all components on a bench, then reassembling and hoping that
>everything still lines up.
>
>Am I missing something? Is there an easier way to do this?
>
>George Kilishek
>#80006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: It Flies, It Flies, N99PZ flies |
Congrates Larry, I got that feeling in the pit of my stomach the first time
I flew something I had built with my own hands...
The adrenaline rush afterwords is great though and I don't think I quit
smiling for two days.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Hughes ; Lew Dennis ; William S.
Blair ; Roy & Elaine Zilik ; Mad Dog
; Jim & Vicki Baker ; Frank and
Gail Hancock ; Gary Zilik ;
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 8:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: It Flies, It Flies, N99PZ flies
>
>Just a quick note to keep you up to date. 99PZ passed muster and
>received a Special Airworthiness Certificate on Monday. I ended up
>using Terry Edwards (long story) for the inspection which took about 3
>hours. It took the rest of the day to put the airframe back together.
>If I ever find the guy who put all the screws in, I'll wring his neck.
>
>Dawn arrived this morning and I had not slept a single minute. I kept
>thinking, "Good, I wont have to fly today because I'm to tired". No
>such luck. Denis Walsh was gracious enough to let me sit in the left
>seat of his 6A N133DW and rehearse the flight plan for 99PZ I had run
>out of excuses to stay on the ground and taxied over to the fuel pumps
>and added enough 100LL to get a half load of fuel. After again going
>over the prescribe flight I buckled in and taxied to the run-up area
>at the end of 26. The run-up was normal so I took the active and did
>a high speed taxi test. No shimmy and I could raise the nose so it was
>now time for the real thing. I taxied back to the end of 26, lined up
>on the center line and smoothly fed in the power. I was nearing
>rotation speed and I looked at the tach only to see about 1800 rpm.
>Not enough, so I aborted the takeoff.
>
>I'm using the Sensenich 72FM fixed pitch prop on an O-360-A1A and
>expected to see a little more rpm than 1800 on takeoff. I taxied back
>to the bewildered crowd and explained my dilemma. Is 1800 enough?
>What should we/I do? Finally a good reason to stay on the ground (can
>you say nervous?) Someone said "Call Van's" and a Cell phone was
>handed to me.
>
>I explained my problem to Scott Risen. He wanted to know what the
>manifold pressure was. I never looked and didn't know. He said if I
>could get full MP (25" at FTG") during a static run-up and 1800-2100
>rpm it would fly.
>
>Back to the end of the runway for a full power static run. I could get
>2200 rpm and 25" MP. Guess I have to fly. (I'm still nervous) I took
>the active and firewalled the throttled, 25" of MP and about 2000 rpm
>this time. I held back pressure on the stick to raise the nose wheel a
>bit (I could hear Mike Seager's voice in the background) and noted 60
>mph indicated at liftoff.
>
>I climbed out at 120 planning to orbit the field at 6900' or 100 '
>below Class B. This would give me 400' separation for the 172's in the
>pattern below. I was at 6900' when I turned downwind and kept it
>firewalled as I leveled off. With no wheel pants, gear leg or
>intersection fairings 99PZ accelerated to 170 mph indicated at 2650
>rpm and 23" MP. I flew a wide pattern and at 170 it sure gobbles up
>the real estate in a hurry.
>
>After a few circuits of the field it was time to land. Slowing down
>the FP prop from 170 to 100 seemed to take for ever. I was going to do
>a no flap 1st landing but the idle was set a little fast and the FP
>prop just kept pulling me along at a slow sink rate. I dropped the
>first notch of flaps at 100 and when still a little high on turning
>final I decided I needed all 40 degrees. Full flaps helped the sink
>rate and I made a pretty good 1st landing if I may say so myself. I
>made the first intersection and turned off and waved at my loving wife
>(and chief riviter) and then the whole thrill of the moment set in.
>
>Now I know what the RV Grin is all about. Keep building boys and
>girls.
>
>A post flight inspection showed some oil on the belly and a little
>near the left cowl inlet. After removing the cowl and plenum cover the
>culprit was found. The plug replacing the constant speed prop oil
>feed was only slightly tighter than finger tight. The amount of oil
>lost was imperceptible on the dip stick and none dripped on the ramp
>so it was not a bad leak, but it could have gotten worse had I flown
>longer. Another good reason first flights should be limited to 15-20
>minutes. Mine was 15 minutes.
>
>Gary Zilik
>RV-6A N99PZ - or the RV formerly known as s/n 22993 - First flight
>Feb. 8, 2000 - .25 hr total time
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft names (came from: Lessons learned in early |
flight testing)
My wife says I'm going out to spend time with my "Mistress." I'm kind of
fond of the "Cleco Clipper" myself. Because I am forever putting in and
taking out clecos!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: rv6bldr(at)home.com.with.ESMTP
[SMTP:rv6bldr(at)home.com.with.ESMTP]
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 4:40 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft names (came from: Lessons
learned in early flight testing)
v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP
My wife calls my -6 project "Little Huzzy". When I come home from
work,
she usually asks me if I'm going to spend time with that "Little
Huzzy"
tonight out in the garage! So, I feel it's only appropriate that I
put
her name on her nose.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
Kathy & Bill Peck wrote:
>
>
> Hal (& list)
>
> You asked: "do you call it the "Peck Bird"?
>
> N110KB hasn't quite earned a nickname yet. I've seen Larry Pardue
mention
> in his posts that his -6 is working on earning "Trouble" for a
name (hope
> this is easing up, Larry!), and one of our local (Pueblo, CO) RV-4
pilots
> claims his earned "Shims" for the nose art.
>
> We're still letting our -6A convince us of an appropriate name.
Past
> experience with cars, etc. has me convinced that when the right
one comes
> along, we'll know it...! (Along these lines, I'm wondering if
Randy
> Pflanzer's might become "Michelangelo" or "Sistine" - it's sure
been keeping
> him in the painting process for quite a while! Hope you get to
join us
> aloft pretty soon, Randy!)
>
> Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q) N110KB flying!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Caps Shipping Today!!! |
Listers
I have finished the second batch of fuel caps today and are being shipped
as I type. I'm sorry it took so long on these, but the death in my family has
been a real set back. Things are going alot better now, Thanks for all the
kind words and understand from the group. I have one cap I needed to replace
for Dennis Persyk if anyone out there has his e-mail address I would
appericate it. I had it on my computer but it has vanished, and I know he
wants his cap.
Thanks
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Oil screen |
>Does anyone have other recommendations?
Louis, if it wouldn't fit anywhere else, I would put my oil filter on the
outside of the cowl!
Here is why.
I had an engine failure once. Not one where it suddenly got quiet but
where it slowly started getting rough and noisy. I reduced power to just
barely keep aloft and descending slowly to Red Bluff - over very flat farm
land. The rough was due to finely ground metal particles filling the
hydraulic lifters.
With an oil filter, I would have had low oil pressure and noise before
rough running. I believe a filter could be a life saver as slows the
deterioration of an engine that is breaking up by trapping the finer stuff.
Secondarily, I believe that engines just last longer if the grinding
compounds (worn off metal) can be kept out of circulation. The prime
benefit of screens is *CHEAP*. Strictly 1940's era antiquities.
Hoses, I don't like. However, good installation and rechecking and they do
seem to work ok. I do wonder why we freak out about safety wire in some
places and do nothing at all in others such as hoses, tube connections,
plugs etc.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Countersink cutters |
Mark-
I have a 3/32" countersink cutter I got from Airparts. I drill out to
3/32", countersink, then final drill with a #40 bit. Works great.
Rob Reece
RV-3 s/n45 reskinning wings
Socorro, NM
I ordered a #40 size countersink cutter from Avery, but the pilot is
slightly wider than the holes I've been drilling with a #40 bit. A
3/32" rivet will fit in these holes just fine, but I have to force
the countersink cutter into the hole. As you'd expect, when I'm done
countersinking, the hole is quite a bit wider than the original #40
hole. Is this normal, or did I somehow get a countersink with an
enlarged pilot? (No, I'm not using a #30 countersink. I also have one
of those and it is definitely larger than my #40.)
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
Irvine, CA
RV-9A tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling horizontal stabilizer to longerons |
On more thought on this... on all critical AN bolt holes such as this I
underdrilled slightly and used a reamer to get a truly round hole. I didn't
bother with it for places where perfect alignment isn't required, but I
figured it couldn't get more critical than mounting the empennage straight
so I did. Of course the main wing rear spar holes would be another such
location. Also, if you drill a pilot hole and then increase their size
separately it seems to me that you're asking for a minor misalignment.
Again, these are parts where alignment is critical -- I would drill them in
assembly with each other to make sure the holes are completely concentric.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Batt contactor |
Hi Bob, I notice on your wiring schematics the
inclusion of a diode between the large + and small
terminals on the contactor.
What is the reason for this and what type of diode is it.
John,
The solenoid coil that provides a force to close
the contactor is an "inductive" load capable of
storing electrical energy. The energy is dumped back
into the system in the form of a high voltage
spike when the switch that controls the contactor
is opened. You'll see a diode across the coil
terminals of all contactors in our diagrams. Take
a peek at the photograph on our website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/s701-1l.jpg
This shows how we install the diode on contactors we
sell that do not have them built in. The intermittant
duty starter contactors we sell have this diode
built in.
Just about any diode rectifier will work. 1N4000 series
devices are electrically capable of doing the job. The
diode you see in my photo is a 1N5400 series device
selected because it's mechanically more robust.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling horizontal stabilizer to longerons |
I wouldn't lose my mind over this - I wasted 6 weeks mounting the tail. Sure,
it needs to be as straight as possible, but this is *not* a close tolerance
bolt like the center section. The bolts are hardly loaded in shear, there are
4 bolts in this joint, and Tom at Vans explained that two extra bolts were
added to this joint as insurance because some folks had trouble with edge
distances on the outer bolts. Unless all of the bolt holes are really sloppy,
you are not going to introduce a worthwhile error into the alignment in the
horizontal plane. I found that when I mounted the tail, I had to compromise
in few places since *tiny* errors showed up in the fuse and the HS which are
amplified at the tips of the tail. There is an article in the R-vator about
drilling these holes which I heeded. About the holes required in the upper
angle, calculating any strength loss is an academic exercise, at best.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> On more thought on this... on all critical AN bolt holes such as this I
> underdrilled slightly and used a reamer to get a truly round hole. ...
> FWIW,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical panel |
My friend Dale Ensing has the original Exp Bus on his 6A and I was admiring
how neat the wiring looks on his panel. If I had it to do over, I'd get the
pull-out version of the Exp Bus and the load center. It would have saved me
a lot of time and would have resulted in a neater installation.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 7:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electrical panel
>
>Check out this site.
>I don't believe I have seen it before.
>Control Vision has PC integrated boards with breaker/switches installed.
Seem
>like simple installation.
>Let me know what you think as I am not the expert on these things.
>Web site: http://www.controlvision.com/frame.cfm?link=avionics.htm
>
>John Danielson
>Finishing wing/ starting fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical panel |
Actually I think the Indicater panel would tell you which circuit you had a
problem with and you could pull the load check with ohm meter and know if it
was the load or the unit. The same way you would determine if it was the
load, wiring, breaker, switch with the old way of doing it. Also with the
new tray, 4 screws and you can work on the system sitting up right in the
seat not with your head between rudder pedals. A friend and myself
installed the new tray system in his Murphy and it went great. Much easier
than the last RV-6 that I helped a friend wire the old fashion way. Also
there are blade fuse holders in the new system so if a load circuit didn't
have the right protection you can put a automotive blade fuse in. Would be
faster than unhooking bus bars and trying to remember which wire went
where....
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Oil screen |
Louis,
With the oil screen the oil has to be changed every 25 hours. The old term
for the oil screen is "gravel catcher" because it just does not catch as
much small particle as a spin-on filter. The other bad part is that
cleaning the screen is a mess. The good news is that it does not take much
to change to a spin-on filter. whether right on the case or remote. I
bought an engine with the oil screen and one of the first things I did was
get an ADC remote filter with a chip detector built in.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Finishing details of wiring
>From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: IO-360 Oil screen
>Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 18:24:16 -0500
>
>
>Hi gang,
>
>After loosing 8ZZ on Christmas day, I have looked at quite a few RV-4's
>that are for sale. I recently saw a nice candidate Air Flow injected
>IO-360. This is an expertly built aircraft with a beautifully finished
>interior and exterior. She was built with a Christen inverted oil system,
>but has no Oil Filter or Gascolater. Instead, there is the Air Flow
>Performance in-line fuel filter and only a stock Lycoming oil screen on the
>back of the engine. Do people still use only oil screens? I usually change
>oil every 25 hrs. Is this OK with an Oil Screen? Does anyone have other
>recommendations? It looks awfully crowded to put a remote filter...But I
>would if necessary.
>
>Louis
>
>Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
>larywil(at)home.com
>(610) 668-4964
>Philadelphia, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dalski, Dave" <dave.dalski(at)eds.com> |
| Subject: | RV 6 or 8 Empennage Construction Video Tapes for Sale |
George Orndoff RV6/8 pre-punched empennage construction video tape set (2
tapes) for sale. $30 including shipping within the continental United
States. Please reply off-line to dave.dalski(at)eds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | V Block jig for Elevator ? |
I just finished mounting the V block jig for the elevator on the bench. I put
in the elevator skin with the spare clecoed on, in the jig. The trailing edge
is pushed all the way to the bottom and found that the v cut in the jig is to
wide at the top. I did not have this problem with the rudder that fit nice
and snug. The v cut seems to be at a different angle than the shape of the
elevator. I have tripled checked the prints and my measures, IM stuck has any
one had this problem.
Thanks Bill
Pembroke MA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: V Block jig for Elevator ? |
> The trailing edge
> is pushed all the way to the bottom and found that the v cut in the
> jig is to
> wide at the top. I did not have this problem with the rudder that fit
> nice
> and snug. The v cut seems to be at a different angle than the shape
> of the
> elevator.
Make a few wedges from wood, cover them with duct tape. You'll need
them later as well.
Position them in the jig "V" so that they snug up against the skin and
tighten everything up.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: V Block jig for Elevator ? |
I didn't have a problem with the trailing edge on the elevator but remember
the elevator uses 3 V blocks. I didn't notice it until after I had
completed the elevator, but on the parts list that came with the Kit it
shows part numbers VB-3, VB-4 and VB-5 as being Elevator Wood Blocks.
Unfortunately they don't list the VB #'s on the wood blocks themselves so
your on your own to figure out which is which.
Mike Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <WHigg1170(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 04:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: V Block jig for Elevator ?
>
> I just finished mounting the V block jig for the elevator on the bench. I
put
> in the elevator skin with the spare clecoed on, in the jig. The trailing
edge
> is pushed all the way to the bottom and found that the v cut in the jig is
to
> wide at the top. I did not have this problem with the rudder that fit nice
> and snug. The v cut seems to be at a different angle than the shape of the
> elevator. I have tripled checked the prints and my measures, IM stuck has
any
> one had this problem.
> Thanks Bill
> Pembroke MA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
Does anyone have some knowledge on when to replace a nyloc nut? RV's
have a lot of them and some don't have torque limits. I keep track of
mine with "Torque Seal" or its equivalent. AC43.13-1B (Section 4,
paragraph 7-64, f.) says to replace nylocs "if the nut cannot meet the
minimum prevailing torque values (See table 7-2)." But in the process
of building, refitting, removal for painting, maintenance, etc.--how
many times can a nyloc nut be threaded-unthreaded-threaded before its
locking action becomes over worn?
Appreciate any input.
Boyd.
RV-Super Six, flying
160 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft names (came from: Lessons learned in early flight |
tes...
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
I really marvel at the creative juices that flow out there with the
naming of the planes. I have to rely on the better half though and as you
may guess, she has dubbed our RV6A "TUT". Yep, that's right, it stands
for "The Ultimate Toy". I guess I will have to agree since she keeps
telling me the only difference in men and boys is the price of their
toys. Of course I respond that we only need one adult in the family and I
am glad she volunteered for it. ;-)))).
Wes & Becky Hays
Rotan, Tx
Finishing hooking up the engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nyloc locknuts |
>
>
>Does anyone have some knowledge on when to replace a nyloc nut? RV's
>have a lot of them and some don't have torque limits. I keep track of
>mine with "Torque Seal" or its equivalent. AC43.13-1B (Section 4,
>paragraph 7-64, f.) says to replace nylocs "if the nut cannot meet the
>minimum prevailing torque values (See table 7-2)." But in the process
>of building, refitting, removal for painting, maintenance, etc.--how
>many times can a nyloc nut be threaded-unthreaded-threaded before its
>locking action becomes over worn?
>
>Appreciate any input.
>
>Boyd.
>RV-Super Six, flying
>160 hrs.
If the locknut can be turned by finger pressure alone, it's ready for the
trash. Still, I will only use a locknut once on control system fittings and
I follow the above test on all other attachments. Those nuts really don't
cost very much anyway.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
don't have 160 hrs, but working on it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Oil screen |
>
>
> >Does anyone have other recommendations?
>
>Louis, if it wouldn't fit anywhere else, I would put my oil filter on the
>outside of the cowl!
>
>Here is why...
Hal,
Thanks for the response. You are among the special group of listers whose
responses I usually save.
If and When I get this aircraft, I will be better able to determine where
to put a remote filter. I am also considering the merits of removing the
inverted oil system. The current Christen Inverted System is impeccably
installed. But talk about a zillion hoses!! You should know that I have
gotten a lot of responses from people who say that the screen is fine if
one keeps to the 25 hour schedule. But I tend to agree with your reasoning.
Thanks, again.
Louis
Louis I. Willig, RV-4 - N8ZZ
larywil(at)home.com
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: first flight N17325 |
James,
Please extend our CONGRATULATIONS to Frank on N17325's First Flight!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Main Gear - Installed
Niantic, CT
*****************
>From: James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: first flight N17325
>Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:03:10 -0600
>
>
>Hi listers.
>
>Frank Hoover is not on the list, but I thought I'd pass on a first flight
>last
>week of his RV-8, N17325. His instrument panel is featured on Steve Davis'
>(PanelCut) website.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Listers,
Now that I've got the top cowl on, I'm in a real fight with the bottom cowl.
Other than using 6 hands to position it for marking and cutting, are there
any better suggestions?
Also, there's gotta be a good way to hold the front of the top cowl in place
while fitting the bottom cowl. Somebody tell me what it is!! (Remember, if
you try to clamp it to the spinner backplate, the clamps' get in the way of
the bottom cowl).
By the way, I encountered absolutely no problems fitting up the top cowl with
the upper forward fuse skin just cleco'd in place...
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: It Flies, It Flies, N99PZ flies |
Gary,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Main Gear Installed)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N468TC |
Terry,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Main Gear Installed)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: V Block jig for Elevator ? |
I have checked to see if I mixed up the blocks and if Vans might of numbered
them wrong. I compared the angle cut for all the blocks and there all cut at
the same angle, which will fit the rudder fine but not the elevator. it
almost looks like they might of used the same cutting jig for the rudder when
they were supposed to switch jigs when they cut the elevator blocks. Its a
simple fix if that the case, my Maine reason for asking the ? is to make sure
IM not missing something I should be doing.
Thank for the help keep it coming
Bill
Pembroke Ma
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
I fitted my bottom cowl first, so I did not have to worry about having the
top held in place at the spinner. Maybe you could just do the bottom cowl
by itself, and put the top cowl on afterwards, and fit them up together. I
guess it could be done both ways. I managed to do my cowl with just one
other person (thanks Larry) and didn't find it very difficult with just two
sets of hands. FWIW, there is some helpful tips on my webpage under the
Cowl section.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 5:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Fit-up
>
> Listers,
>
> Now that I've got the top cowl on, I'm in a real fight with the bottom
cowl.
> Other than using 6 hands to position it for marking and cutting, are there
> any better suggestions?
>
> Also, there's gotta be a good way to hold the front of the top cowl in
place
> while fitting the bottom cowl. Somebody tell me what it is!! (Remember,
if
> you try to clamp it to the spinner backplate, the clamps' get in the way
of
> the bottom cowl).
>
> By the way, I encountered absolutely no problems fitting up the top cowl
with
> the upper forward fuse skin just cleco'd in place...
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright
> RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Terra Transponder/Comm, ACK encoder |
I am in Dallas and need a replacement for my TRT250. If you part them
seperate I will take the transponder. PLEAAASE!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)onramp.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 7:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Terra Transponder/Comm, ACK encoder
>
>Hey Gang;
>I received this message from a good friend that lives in the DFW area.
Give
>it a couple of minutes of your time, it's self explanatory. Seems like a
>great deal to me. Many of you know Juan and I'll attest that he is honest
>as the day is long. If you can use the stuff please consider contacting
>him. Thanks
>AL
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Juan Jimenez <flybd5(at)hotmail.com>
>To: ; ; ;
>; ;
>
>Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 12:04 AM
>Subject: Terra Transponder/Comm, ACK encoder
>
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Circumstances force me to sell the avionics I had bought to upgrade my
>BD-5.
>>
>> I have two nieces from Argentina visiting here in Texas, ages 20 and 18,
>> whose father (my wife's only brother) only makes about $1000/mo after 25
>> years working at a ceramics plant about 350km SW of Buenos Aires. I had
>not
>> seen the girls since they were small children. From the day they arrived
>it
>> was clear that they are in dire need of serious dental care (we're
talking
>> pretty bad gum bleeding and possible bone damage). Since my insurance
>won't
>> cover it, their dad can't possibly afford it, and it's a pity for two
>> otherwise gorgeous girls to walk around with pitiful teeth, I'm going to
>> send the wallet to the proverbial sacrificial table and make sure their
>> dental problems are taken care of before they go home later on this
month.
>> That means the avionics go back into circulation until I can buy another
>> set.
>>
>> So... as much as I hate to do this, because it took me a long time to
find
>> these...
>>
>> 1) One Terra TX720 720-channel analog comm transceiver with tray and
>> harness
>>
>> 1) One Terra TRT250 analog transponder with tray and harness
>>
>> 1) One ACK-30 encoder, with tray and harness, wired for TRT 250
>>
>> All three units guaranteed to be in working condition by
>> Nova Avionics out of Northwest Regional Airport here in TX.
>>
>> I will take the first $1500 (my cost) =and= I will pay shipping via FedEx
>to
>> anywhere in the world (international customs fees and duties are your
>> responsibility).
>>
>> These units are a steal at this price, particularly the transponder,
which
>> is known for high reliability, low weight and low current draw.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Juan
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Also, there's gotta be a good way to hold the front of the top cowl in
place
>while fitting the bottom cowl. Somebody tell me what it is!! (Remember,
if
>you try to clamp it to the spinner backplate, the clamps' get in the way of
>the bottom cowl).
>
I made liberal use of duct tape and blocks, either on the engine or
propeller extension to hold the upper cowl in position.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying "Trouble" name in suspension while I see if she
stops acting up
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Important - NorthEast AeroElectric Seminar |
All,
EAA Chapter # 334 is please to sponsor Bob Nuckoll's - North East 2000
Seminar.
March 11 (Saturday) 8am > 5pm
March 12 (Sunday) 8:30am > Noon
Location: Survival Systems (Groton Airport)
Groton, CT
If you haven't met Bob or bought his Outstanding book, I know you've seen
his regular responses to our frequent Electrical questions. If your as
impressed with his Electrical knowledge from his answers to our questions,
meeting him in person and receiving training from Bob will "Blow You Away".
The media uses words such as Guru and Expert very freely. This is your
opportunity to meet and be trained by a True Expert.
I was privileged to meet Bob in person and have him review my basic
electrical plan. The knowledge and suggestions he made (in just an hour) was
incredible and I had spent 4-years as an USAF A/C Radio Repairman. I also
bought his book and it is my Electrical Bible.
We expect to have a Group hotel rate confirmed by Friday - and will let the
List know the details.
To review the seminar plan and costs goto: www.AeroElectric.com
If you have any questions email me or call during the day @ (860)433-1488.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: nyloc locknuts |
I usually never re-use. Of course, I do this for a living so I do not have
to pay. But all joking aside, a fiberlock loses grip the more it is used.
-----Original Message-----
From: InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111 <bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP>
Date: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 6:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: nyloc locknuts
201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
>Does anyone have some knowledge on when to replace a nyloc nut? RV's
>have a lot of them and some don't have torque limits. I keep track of
>mine with "Torque Seal" or its equivalent. AC43.13-1B (Section 4,
>paragraph 7-64, f.) says to replace nylocs "if the nut cannot meet the
>minimum prevailing torque values (See table 7-2)." But in the process
>of building, refitting, removal for painting, maintenance, etc.--how
>many times can a nyloc nut be threaded-unthreaded-threaded before its
>locking action becomes over worn?
>
>Appreciate any input.
>
>Boyd.
>RV-Super Six, flying
>160 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Fit-up
>Listers,
>
>Now that I've got the top cowl on, I'm in a real fight with the bottom
cowl. >Other than using 6 hands to position it for marking and cutting, are
there >any better suggestions?
>
>Also, there's gotta be a good way to hold the front of the top cowl in
place >while fitting the bottom cowl. Somebody tell me what it is!!
(Remember, if >you try to clamp it to the spinner backplate, the clamps' get
in the way of >the bottom cowl).
>
>By the way, I encountered absolutely no problems fitting up the top cowl
with >the upper forward fuse skin just cleco'd in place...
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>RV-6
Kyle - It's easy man :-) To hold the top front cowl in place just cut a
little piece of wood 1x1x 3 approx. and tape it to the top of the engine
near the front. Place the top cowl on and the rear spinner bulkhead (make
SURE that the rear spinner bulkhead is where it belongs). With the spinner
bulkhead on you will be able to see how high the cowl needs to be and you
just lengthen or shorten the wood block as neccessary to get the height
you need. Measure the distance you need between the spinner & cowl and then
you can cut the rear of the cowl to fit. When the top is aligned, you then
use gray packing tape to suspend the lower cowl into position. You can move
the tape up or down on the lower cowl untill you have trimmed and aligned to
your hearts desire. I did the entire cowl assembly by myself so I know it
can be done. A bit of a pain though. But - hey - it worked out and looks
great now.
Hope this helps,
Doug Murray RV-6
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
My wives nickname has been Bunsie since we were married and for good
reason. My -4 carries it on the front. I went to a sign shop that has
the computer generated 3M tape cutter. He used the script font in MS
Word, made the B slightly larger, moved it downward some, and printed
it. It went on like the numbers you purchase. Didn't even charge for
it. You can get your numbers the same way.
The little woman of 38 years has been very happy. It pays off in the
long run.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Prop Blance - an experience |
First, thanks to all who responded on the subject of prop balancing & the FAA.
Short version:
I flew to Sensenich, Lancaster, Pa today to have it done. Well, it wasn't
done because they could not get the right reading. It came up as ERROR
after three tries in two hours and much head cratching on the test set up.
I offered them some money for their effort, they declined. I flew home in
beautiful 53deg blue sky east coast weather. I was a great day to get out
of the office.
Abreviated Long version-comments are welcome:
Here's what happened at Sensenich. Two guys, one young (2 months
experience), one not so young (30 years with the co.). I was skeptical
before going there. They were skeptical for not having ever done a balance
job on a plane with wooden prop. We both decided to give it a world. I was
quite surprise when I first saw the set up. Cowling off of plane.
Transducer and optical sensor were side by side and mounted on a stick (an L
shape metal stick). The stick was bolted to the first bolt on top fwd end
of engine. From top of engine to the sensors was approx. 8 inches. Sensors
to reflective tape on the back of the prop was approx. 8 inches also. It
was a tower. All clear, engine started. I gave them a thumbs up at full
throttle. They gave me a thumbs down. Engine shutdown. Re-aimed and
repositioned the reflective tape. Looked for a shorter stick - couldn't
find one. Stick rotated 45deg CW. Sensors were now closer to the engine
but transducer was not pointing up (they insisted that it had to point up).
Rotated transducer so it now pointed up. Reposition relective tape. Fired
up engine. Thumbs up, thumbs down.... you get the idea.
Their explanation - can't do it on a wood prop. I asked why. They said
wood flexes too much and pegged the scale. I know at this point that even
if we had a good reading that I probably woulnd't feel comfortable for them
to drill holes in the back plate to counterbalance the vibration.
So I buttoned her up and called it a day while they pulled the cart over to
a Bonaza to do the same for another customer. His cowl stayed on.
Transducer inside the cowl, bolted on the engine. Optical sensor taped on
top of cowling right behind spinner, approx 1.5 to 2 inches behind the very
root of the blade. Egine was fired up. Reading was 0.06. They told the
customer "good to go, she's within acceptable limits". And they were
convinced my wooden prop messed the whole thing up.
Lesson learned for me - (1) you can't measure vibration while having the
sensors on a stick that's 8 inches tall. You'd have a hard time figuring
out how much of the vibration is contributed by the engine/airframe and how
much is contributed by the flimpsy stick. (2) Can't rotate the stick so
that the sensors are closer to the engine either. You still have a long
stick swaying with the wind. (3) don't expect too much going into it and
you won't be disappointed when it's not successful.
What's next - I'll try it with they guys at Manassas, VA next week.
Anh
N985VU
-6
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical panel |
"One day your GPS won't power up. You turn of the power at the panel and
wait a
few minutes and
try again. You do this a few times an it becomes increasingly obvious that
one
of your solid
state current limiting devices has bit the dust. What now? Pull out the
logic
probe and O-scope and track
down the problem. Uninstall the entire panel and get out the soldering gun?
Worse yet,
pack the entire assembly off to the manufacture for repair while you take
your
ride off line."
i just recieved my exp bus and there are provisions on the circuit board
next to the current limiting devices for standard atc plastic fuses.
steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <WP2J(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Blance - an experience |
I read your e-mail on the RV-List about your prop balancing problems
at Sensenich. Doesn't it seem odd that nobody there has ever tried to
balance a wooden prop? I would think that Sensenich would have tried
it at least once in its' many years of operation.
I have no experience with prop balancing but I do have about 20 years
experience in the engineering field. As you mentioned in your e-mail
it sounds strange to be measuring vibration using an 8" stick. Have
you considered writing a letter to the top guy at Sensenich and
telling him the problems you encountered? I would really like to
hear what they have to say. Maybe the rest of the RV-List would like
to know also.
Bob Moore
Austin, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: nyloc locknuts |
Although not mentioned in your post, remember to not use any nyloc nuts in
the engine compartment. All nuts firewall foreword should be steel lock
nuts or cotter pinned metal nuts. I did find it interesting that the nuts
used to hold the gear leg to the mount in a RV-6, as supplied by Van's, are
nyloc nuts. (I replaced them.)
For that reason, one of the first things I did when I received my kit was
order a couple hundred metal lock nuts from Spruce of varying sizes. My
personal choice is to not use the nylocs. I will admit that it is sometimes
difficult to get a wrench on a small metal locknut though.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting the last three parts)
>Does anyone have some knowledge on when to replace a nyloc nut?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Blance - an experience |
Try someone else.
-----Original Message-----
From: wvu(at)ameritel.net <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 9:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Blance - an experience
>
>First, thanks to all who responded on the subject of prop balancing & the
FAA.
>
>Short version:
>I flew to Sensenich, Lancaster, Pa today to have it done. Well, it wasn't
>done because they could not get the right reading. It came up as ERROR
>after three tries in two hours and much head cratching on the test set up.
>I offered them some money for their effort, they declined. I flew home in
>beautiful 53deg blue sky east coast weather. I was a great day to get out
>of the office.
>
>Abreviated Long version-comments are welcome:
>Here's what happened at Sensenich. Two guys, one young (2 months
>experience), one not so young (30 years with the co.). I was skeptical
>before going there. They were skeptical for not having ever done a balance
>job on a plane with wooden prop. We both decided to give it a world. I
was
>quite surprise when I first saw the set up. Cowling off of plane.
>Transducer and optical sensor were side by side and mounted on a stick (an
L
>shape metal stick). The stick was bolted to the first bolt on top fwd end
>of engine. From top of engine to the sensors was approx. 8 inches.
Sensors
>to reflective tape on the back of the prop was approx. 8 inches also. It
>was a tower. All clear, engine started. I gave them a thumbs up at full
>throttle. They gave me a thumbs down. Engine shutdown. Re-aimed and
>repositioned the reflective tape. Looked for a shorter stick - couldn't
>find one. Stick rotated 45deg CW. Sensors were now closer to the engine
>but transducer was not pointing up (they insisted that it had to point up).
>Rotated transducer so it now pointed up. Reposition relective tape. Fired
>up engine. Thumbs up, thumbs down.... you get the idea.
>Their explanation - can't do it on a wood prop. I asked why. They said
>wood flexes too much and pegged the scale. I know at this point that even
>if we had a good reading that I probably woulnd't feel comfortable for them
>to drill holes in the back plate to counterbalance the vibration.
>
>So I buttoned her up and called it a day while they pulled the cart over to
>a Bonaza to do the same for another customer. His cowl stayed on.
>Transducer inside the cowl, bolted on the engine. Optical sensor taped on
>top of cowling right behind spinner, approx 1.5 to 2 inches behind the very
>root of the blade. Egine was fired up. Reading was 0.06. They told the
>customer "good to go, she's within acceptable limits". And they were
>convinced my wooden prop messed the whole thing up.
>
>Lesson learned for me - (1) you can't measure vibration while having the
>sensors on a stick that's 8 inches tall. You'd have a hard time figuring
>out how much of the vibration is contributed by the engine/airframe and
how
>much is contributed by the flimpsy stick. (2) Can't rotate the stick so
>that the sensors are closer to the engine either. You still have a long
>stick swaying with the wind. (3) don't expect too much going into it and
>you won't be disappointed when it's not successful.
>
>What's next - I'll try it with they guys at Manassas, VA next week.
>
>Anh
>N985VU
>-6
>Maryland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Simplified FAA Change |
Listers: Our local (MI) paper on Tuesday recounted a midair that took
several lives and destroyed a Questair and a Champion. The AVweb this
morning said that the Venture carried a man and a woman. If anyone on the
list has more detailed information about these losses, I would like very
much to know more about it.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Blance - an experience |
Funny. I had my wooden prop balanced. Actually it is a wooden bladed
Aeromatic prop that changes with air loads and weight... BUT we did balance
it.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Moore <WP2J(at)swbell.net>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 5:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Blance - an experience
>
>I read your e-mail on the RV-List about your prop balancing problems
>at Sensenich. Doesn't it seem odd that nobody there has ever tried to
>balance a wooden prop? I would think that Sensenich would have tried
>it at least once in its' many years of operation.
>
>I have no experience with prop balancing but I do have about 20 years
>experience in the engineering field. As you mentioned in your e-mail
>it sounds strange to be measuring vibration using an 8" stick. Have
>you considered writing a letter to the top guy at Sensenich and
>telling him the problems you encountered? I would really like to
>hear what they have to say. Maybe the rest of the RV-List would like
>to know also.
>
>Bob Moore
>Austin, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl removal Aid |
The only recommendation that I have regarding fitting
baffles to the engine, is to make a cardboard template
where the baffle goes against the engine and then use
the template as a guide to cut the baffle. IMHO, this
will save time in the long run.
The cardboard ( folders from work - donated with out consent) trick worked for
me too. I used the folders taped to my bafffles and cut the folder material with
scissors. Worked great. When completed, I cut my metal baffles once.
For the cowl removal aid I made a craddle made up from two sissors jacks bolted
onto a metal milk crate which I bolted to a mechanics creeper. The two scissor
jacks have a short run of 1 x 6 pine with pipe insulation installed on
top.......I roll the "science fair project" up to the RV, tweek the two sissor
jacks up to catch the botttom cowl, pull my pins & then tweek the sissor jacks
down with my fingers.....when clear of everything I roll the craddle away. Works
great & the three other RV builders at my airport have just about wore the
wheels off my craddle rolling it from their hangers to my hanger. This makes the
hundred or so cowl fitting attempts and regular maintenance a one man affair.
Cost- about 5 dollars & a well stocked junk filled garage. The jacks were from
Subaru's
but the only thing that matters is the jacks be small and of the same geometery
and thread pitch.
________________________________________________________________________________
See the post on my cowl removal aid...It was used as a fit-up aid also. I think
the cowl was installed & removed 500 times.....no kidding........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Kyle,
I have my prop and spinner on the engine. I drilled and clecoed a 1" X
2" piece of aluminum to the center of the cowl about 1" aft of the front
edge (at the spinner) so that it would rest on the spinner and support
the cowl. I put a spacer under it on the spinner to support the cowl
1/8" above the spinner per plans. I hope that is clear. I then trimmed
and fit the aft of the top cowl.
On the bottom cowl, I duct taped it in position and drilled and clecoed
one hole on the inside of the cooling inlet on each side, where there
will be screws later. With the top cowl fitted and in place and the
bottom cowl held in place at the front with the cleco's, I could then
more easily trim and fit the bottom cowl.
Ken Harrill
RV-6 cowl
Columbia, SC
Also, there's gotta be a good way to hold the front of
the top cowl in place
while fitting the bottom cowl. Somebody tell me what it
is!! (Remember, if
you try to clamp it to the spinner backplate, the
clamps' get in the way of
the bottom cowl).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
This is a false statement. Nylon locknuts are good up to 250 degrees.
There is a lot of places in your engine compartment that never see these
types of temperatures.
Also Cadmium plated metal locknuts are restricted to 450 degrees..so don't
use cadmium nuts on exhaust.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
All nuts firewall foreword should be steel lock
nuts or cotter pinned metal nuts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Rt. Hand vs. Left Hand Throttle |
It took me a while to write this but I have followed the right versus left
hand throttle discussion. We have heard from people with many hours and
fantastic experience mention that the transition is easy. Now its my turn
from the other end of the spectrum. I'm a 60 hr student pilot. 55 of those
hours are in the left seat of a 152. The remaining 5 are in my RV-4. I
have found the transition to be pretty easy. I don't know why. I guess it
is that when your eyes, butt and the instruments tell you you need to come
back on the elevator, it just happens. The much bigger issue, I think, is
the RVs much greater elevator sensitivity. This seems to become an issue in
the flare. But it is nothing I can't get a feel for.
As an aside, I am left handed and prefer the throttle on the left because it
leaves my left hand free to deal with all the housekeeping chores, including
writing ATIS info and clearances, while still flying with my right hand. My
right hand will learn to be sensitive. It just happens. When I started
racing motorcycles, someone told me that I was at disadvantage because my
right hand did not have the fine motor skill necessary to hold braking right
at the edge of lockup, and that my left hands fine motor control was wasted
on the clutch. YEAH UH HUH.
Just my 2 cents.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
(Check ride next 3 weeks!!!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rt. Hand vs. Left Hand Throttle |
In a message dated 2/10/2000 12:05:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
don_mei(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Don Mei
> RV-4 N92CT
> (Check ride next 3 weeks!!!!)
And I thought my CFI ride was a nightmare! Good luck.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Nutplates on Center Pass Through |
Listers:
The plans call for putting in the nutplates on the center pass through but
seem to be pretty vague as to where exactly they go. I am afraid to drill
holes in the pass through spars without mating up the other part.
Did you guys install the nutplates during initial pass through construction
or did you wait until later in fuselage construction?
Thanks!
Len
RV-8A fuselage
North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | tank nutplate edge distance |
Listers,
Does anyone know the minimum edge distance for the #8 flush nutplates/screws
for the forward row of tank attach screws?
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Dow AgroSciences Information Management
Broadwing IT Consulting
bob.japundza(at)broadwing.com
bjapundza(at)dowagro.com
317-337-5348
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Thu,
10 Feb 2000 15:39:44.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: nyloc locknuts |
Naval aviation specs say you throw em away once they've been removed. That was
bad ju ju to reuse one. Theyr'e cheap and you don't replace them often so why
get cheap on safety?
It bothers me that they don't come with safety wire holes. Those little pigtails
are so comforting to look at during inspections.
Eric Henson
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) on 02/09/2000
06:51:55 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: nyloc locknuts
201-229-111) with ESMTP
Does anyone have some knowledge on when to replace a nyloc nut? RV's
have a lot of them and some don't have torque limits. I keep track of
mine with "Torque Seal" or its equivalent. AC43.13-1B (Section 4,
paragraph 7-64, f.) says to replace nylocs "if the nut cannot meet the
minimum prevailing torque values (See table 7-2)." But in the process
of building, refitting, removal for painting, maintenance, etc.--how
many times can a nyloc nut be threaded-unthreaded-threaded before its
locking action becomes over worn?
Appreciate any input.
Boyd.
RV-Super Six, flying
160 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | O-360 Power Chart |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers,
I have been frustrated with my inability to determine, with any degree of
accuracy, what power percentage I am running. I was hoping to develop
some sort of chart for this, but have been unable to.
As a next best, I have made some charts, using Kevin Horton's
spreadsheet. I ended up with 6 separate charts. Each one is for a
particular RPM, from 2450 RPM through 2700 RPM, in 50 RPM increments.
They are for standard temperature, which is listed on the charts. The
effect of temperature is fairly minor but I have indicated some tentative
correction factors on the chart, which may be improved later. The RPM's
and MP's were selected for my typical use, and may not match yours, but
using Kevin's spreadsheet, anyone should be able to make any necessary
additions.
By photo reducing, I have been able to get all six charts on two sides of
a single, shirt pocket size, 4 1/2 by 5 1/2 inch card and retain good
legibility. For now I just have the spreadsheet data on my website but
should have a JPG of my card available by some time tonight.
Please fill free to use the charts, and advise me of any improvements you
think of.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Electric flaps... |
I'm curious...
How do you activate the electric flaps on the -8, or any other RV for that
matter? Do you get a switch of some kind with the kit? If not, I assume
you use a "bat" style switch of some kind, but how do you determine how far
down the flaps are? I would like to be able to drop the flaps in stages. I
don't need an indicator, but maybe three flap positions? How have other
builders dome this?
Thanks in advance...
-Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V res., wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps... |
The flap motor kit comes with a rocker switch, the flap motor once fully
deployed either way will slip at the end of the travel. mike seager tells
you to count to a certain number, so you know where the flaps are. i think i
will rig a mac indicator on my panel, and make tic marks at 10. 20. 30
degrees.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
mounting tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Blance - an experience |
Well, nah I wasn't going to gripe it to the top guy, especially when we
(Sensenich & I) both were skeptical before I ever showed up. We decided
that it was going to be a learning experience. I really didn't mind it.
They didn't charge me or anything. I figure it's probably enough already
that I'm spreading the words. I'll just let the Supply/Demand, or
Service/Demand work on their own.
One thing they did suggest to me is to put a metal prop on my plane and try
it again. If it works, it must be the wooden prop. Then the young guy
asked if anyone make metal props for RV's. I said "yah, Sensenich does".
He was embarrassed and I felt really bad. Now I have really bad mouthed
them. Let's just used this as good gouge for the group.
Anh
-6
N985VU
Maryland
>
>I read your e-mail on the RV-List about your prop balancing problems
>at Sensenich. Doesn't it seem odd that nobody there has ever tried to
>balance a wooden prop? I would think that Sensenich would have tried
>it at least once in its' many years of operation.
>
>I have no experience with prop balancing but I do have about 20 years
>experience in the engineering field. As you mentioned in your e-mail
>it sounds strange to be measuring vibration using an 8" stick. Have
>you considered writing a letter to the top guy at Sensenich and
>telling him the problems you encountered? I would really like to
>hear what they have to say. Maybe the rest of the RV-List would like
>to know also.
>
>Bob Moore
>Austin, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)canada.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps... |
Check this site for drawing....
http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/flaps.html
Ted French
Prince George BC
RV-6A flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 1:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electric flaps...
>
> I'm curious...
>
> How do you activate the electric flaps on the -8, or any other RV for that
> matter? Do you get a switch of some kind with the kit? If not, I assume
> you use a "bat" style switch of some kind, but how do you determine how
far
> down the flaps are? I would like to be able to drop the flaps in stages.
I
> don't need an indicator, but maybe three flap positions? How have other
> builders dome this?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> -Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V res., wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
> Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps... |
Peter
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> I'm curious...
>
>
> don't need an indicator, but maybe three flap positions? How have other
> builders dome this?
Bill, One way is to place marks on the inboard rib of the alieron.
>
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> -Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V res., wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
> Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps... |
Bill, One way is to place marks on the inboard rib of the alieron.
Peter
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> I'm curious...
>
> How do you activate the electric flaps on the -8, or any other RV for that
> matter? Do you get a switch of some kind with the kit? If not, I assume
> you use a "bat" style switch of some kind, but how do you determine how far
> down the flaps are? I would like to be able to drop the flaps in stages. I
> don't need an indicator, but maybe three flap positions? How have other
> builders dome this?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> -Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V res., wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
> Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Picture - Left Hand RV-6 Throttle |
Listers,
The link below will take you to an awesome website with lots of RV-related
stuff. I hear there is a neat mailing list...
Seriously, this picture:
http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Scans/RV/896pnl2.jpg
which has been hiding under our very noses for maybe 4 years, is a picture of
Tracy Saylor's left hand throttle quadrant installed in his RV-6. The
picture shows the 3 lever variety, while I have the 2 lever type. The unit
attaches to the F-604, and is retrofittable. Both are pretty skinny - my two
lever unit projects 1" from the F-604 at the base, and the 3 lever variety
projects 1.25". The pictured installation looks like it is gold anodized,
but mine is a very nice silver/grey anodized.
You can vary the installation height to meet your needs. As usual,
compromise is involved. Tracy's quadrant is mounted fairly high, while mine
is somewhat lower. If you have fat thighs (ahem), a low position might not
work well for you. It poses no problem for me.
I seem to remember a cost of $50 - $60, but that was a couple of years ago.
This is a kit, and takes an hour or so to assemble, so don't be surprised
when you get a bag o' levers, bolts, etc.
From the yeller pages, here's how you find Tracy (I assume he's still selling
these, but don't really know. First person to call him, post something back
to the list.):
TRACY SAYLOR 805-933-8225 tracysaylor(at)earthlink.net
No, I don't get a commission...
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Power output |
--- Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I have been frustrated with my inability to
> determine, with any degree of
> accuracy, what power percentage I am running. I was
> hoping to develop
> some sort of chart for this, but have been unable
> to.
>
> As a next best, I have made some charts, using Kevin
> Horton's
> spreadsheet. I ended up with 6 separate charts.
> Each one is for a
> particular RPM, from 2450 RPM through 2700 RPM, in
> 50 RPM increments.
> They are for standard temperature, which is listed
> on the charts. The
> effect of temperature is fairly minor but I have
> indicated some tentative
> correction factors on the chart, which may be
> improved later. The RPM's
> and MP's were selected for my typical use, and may
> not match yours, but
> using Kevin's spreadsheet, anyone should be able to
> make any necessary
> additions.
>
> By photo reducing, I have been able to get all six
> charts on two sides of
> a single, shirt pocket size, 4 1/2 by 5 1/2 inch
> card and retain good
> legibility. For now I just have the spreadsheet
> data on my website but
> should have a JPG of my card available by some time
> tonight.
>
> Please fill free to use the charts, and advise me of
> any improvements you
> think of.
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
I have been using the Old Wifes Tale for quick in
flight power estimates.
RPMs in 100 + Manifold Pressure in inches = Number for
power.
2,400 RPM + 24 inches = 24 + 24 = 48 = 75% power.
+3 = 10% increase
-3 = 10% decrease
49 = 85% power.
45 = 65% power.
42 = 55% power.
Some of this info was published in Van's RVator a
couple of years back. The + / - 3 is how I remember
it.
It is easy to remember this when flying. It can be a
couple of % off with temperature but this is close
enough. I do run my O-320 OVER SQUARE with but not
with more than 3 inches more MAP than hundred of RPM.
I also do run low power settings when flying just to
drill holes in the sky.
Some of my favorite power settings are:
2,100 22 inches (43 ~ 60%) for 138 KTAS and 6 GPH.
2,300 and 23" (46 ~ 70%) 7,500' for 160 KTAS and 7
GPH.
2,600 and 26" (52 ~ 95%) 2,500' for 175 KTAS 12.5 GPH.
KTAS is calibrated against GPS.
Fuel flow is calibrated +/- 3.5%
In 1999, I flew 178 hours with an average fuel burn of
7.6 GPH. (Based on actual fuel purchased) I use low
power settings and I also use high power settings. I
ran the Copperstate Dash 1 hour 51 minutes WIDE OPEN
everything except mixture full forward. Fuel burn was
11.5 GPH on that tankful.
Another quick estimate of horsepower if fuel flow.
Most gasoline engines will burn 0.5 pounds of fuel per
hour per horsepower produced. Actual burn is a little
less but will give you a good estimate of your
horsepower.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Electric flaps... |
One neat, simple flap position indicator is just to place labeling tape
(like from the Brother label makers) on the top of the flap such that the
tape is hidden when the flap is up. Put numbers on the tape that correspond
to your desired flap positions (ie. 10, 20, 30 deg.) As you lower the flaps
the tape becomes exposed and is placed such that the 10 is exposed when the
flaps reach 10 deg, 20 when they reach 20 deg, etc. I think I saw this on
someone's RV-6.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter laurence [SMTP:plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 4:00 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric flaps...
Peter
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> I'm curious...
>
>
> don't need an indicator, but maybe three flap positions? How have
other
> builders dome this?
Bill, One way is to place marks on the inboard rib of the alieron.
>
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> -Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V res., wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
> Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:SoCAL Midair was:Simplified FAA Change |
--- Gordon or Marge Comfort wrote:
> Comfort"
>
> Listers: Our local (MI) paper on Tuesday recounted
> a midair that took
> several lives and destroyed a Questair and a
> Champion. The AVweb this
> morning said that the Venture carried a man and a
> woman. If anyone on the
> list has more detailed information about these
> losses, I would like very
> much to know more about it.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
Gordon and lister:
A few members of the SoCAL Wing of Van's Air Force met
Charlie Oliver at Big Bear two weeks ago during one of
our Sunday Breakfast Fly-outs. Charlie was getting
ready to leave in his beautiful RED Venture when the
SoCAL WVAF arrived. We will all miss him.
Here are a few links to local news stories:
http://www.latimes.com/news/state/20000209/t000012904.html
http://www.latimes.com/news/palm/20000208/t000012610.html
http://www.channel2000.com/sh/news/stories/nat-news-20000207-190236.html
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Transition Training in Michigan |
Mike Seager will be in southwest Michigan on April 1,2,3. The training will
be in Three Rivers which is near the Indiana border, south of Kalamazoo.
Please contact me off list for available slots.
Brian Eckstein
bseckstein(at)cs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | airflow performance - purge valve |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
for those of you with the airflow performance fuel injection with purge
valve, i have a series of questions:
what kind of cable are you using to control the purge valve? where did you
put it? (i am thinking friction lock, next to a vernier mixture control...)
how did you plumb the return line from the purge valve? what size hose? (i
am thinking of using one of the vent lines...)
how often do you use the purge valve? is it effective on hot starts? do you
shutdown with mixture or purge? is it worth installing?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE:Bending Longerons |
What am I missing? It looks so simple when George does it on the tapes.
When I clamp the longerons together and put them into the vise they are
already separated at the end by 2 1/2" which means to measure I will have to
set up some type of center line to measure from.
Did you guys have to do this or am I missing something?
Len
RV-8A fuselage
North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps... |
MAC makes a position sensor (about $30) that works with their inexpensive
position gauges. That is the way that I will go. I plan on installing that
soon, and will post a report and pictures on my website.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Join AllAdvantage.com and get paid to surf the Web! Please use my ID#,
(JMP-778) when asked if someone referred you. Thanks!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE:Bending Longerons |
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Len,
The 2 1/2" measurement is wrong. I (and others) posted notes on this.
Look in the archives for details.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (fuselage)
Vienna, VA
----------
>From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
>To: rvlist(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RE:Bending Longerons
>Date: Thu, Feb 10, 2000, 10:17 PM
>
>
> What am I missing? It looks so simple when George does it on the tapes.
>
> When I clamp the longerons together and put them into the vise they are
> already separated at the end by 2 1/2" which means to measure I will have to
> set up some type of center line to measure from.
>
> Did you guys have to do this or am I missing something?
>
> Len
> RV-8A fuselage
> North Carolina
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airflow performance - purge valve |
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Louis,
ACS sells an nice electric "priming valve" for about $40. I intend to
use this on my Airflow Performance install instead of the manual purge
valve. Much easier than routing another control cable through the firewall.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (fuselage)
Vienna, VA
----------
>From: "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: airflow performance - purge valve
>Date: Thu, Feb 10, 2000, 10:02 PM
>
>
> listers,
>
> for those of you with the airflow performance fuel injection with purge
> valve, i have a series of questions:
>
> what kind of cable are you using to control the purge valve? where did you
> put it? (i am thinking friction lock, next to a vernier mixture control...)
>
> how did you plumb the return line from the purge valve? what size hose? (i
> am thinking of using one of the vent lines...)
>
> how often do you use the purge valve? is it effective on hot starts? do you
> shutdown with mixture or purge? is it worth installing?
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a qb finish kit
> mamaroneck, ny
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps... |
Best way is to put degree marks on flap.
Ollie---6A---Tampa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 4:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electric flaps...
>
> I'm curious...
>
> How do you activate the electric flaps on the -8, or any other RV for that
> matter? Do you get a switch of some kind with the kit? If not, I assume
> you use a "bat" style switch of some kind, but how do you determine how
far
> down the flaps are? I would like to be able to drop the flaps in stages.
I
> don't need an indicator, but maybe three flap positions? How have other
> builders dome this?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> -Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V res., wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
> Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control stick boots |
Hi Dwain
You replied to a message from Wesley regarding boots for control sticks from
D J Lauitsen. Do you have an address for Lauitsen?
Thanks
Rollie and Son
6A Finishing kit here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | Electric flaps... |
> Best way is to put degree marks on flap.
I have seen it were a RV-6 owner put an angled line marker on the top flap
skin. This served a dual purpose of showing the degree mark on the flap
skin, and giving a reference on the wing top skin. This allowed for two
reference lines for a redundant and very quick glance to verify position.
Crude example (hope it comes out right?):
wing skin (left shown)
40 25 10 0 Cockpit
|_____|_____|_____|
\
\
\
\ (line moves to
\ match line on wing,
\ full flaps shown)
\
\
\
angled line on flap skin
I am going to do this on my RV-3. What do you think?
Rob Reece
RV-3 s/n45
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airflow performance - purge valve |
Carl,
Check how the purge valve works in the system. And talk to air flow. Don
Riviera.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airflow performance - purge valve |
Carl,
Check how the purge valve works. Call Don Riviera at Air Flow Performance.
The tele number is 864-576-4512. You'll see the purge valve also feeds the
flow divider.
TOM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps |
In response to the question about flap indicators - we have installed a MAC
position indicator on our flap system (along with elevator and aileron trim
position indicators). The sensor was mounted on the upper part of the rear
flap motor box support structure, with a little wire pushrod down to an adel
clamp around the flap linkage. Slide the adel clamp closer/further from the
pivot point until you get full scale deflection through the travel range.
After 4 total hours of flying time (not much yet!), I'm finding that Mike
Seagar was right - you don't need an indicator! It's neat from an "ooh,
ahh" standpoint, but in flight you can feel where the flaps are (sensation
is interpreted in the posterior region), generally without even looking out
at the trailing edge...!
So - my $.02 - if you're wanting the "whizz-bang" value, go ahead and figure
out an indicator. Several suggestions have been posted that provide
effective ways to accomplish this. If you're dreading doing this job,
though, and are just planning to do it because the spam cans all have
indicators, I'd recommend waiting until you've flown for a couple hours to
see if you still think you need one...
Bill & Kathy Peck - N110KB flying (if I can find time away from work!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevin beaton" <beatonk(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
I was planning on using some small aluminum airline style "eyeball" air
vents, from Aircraft Spruce, instead of the larger plastic vents that van's
sales. Has anyone used these aluminum vents, and if so, what hose
configuration did you use to connect the vent to the nasa air inlet? I know
that the smaller aluminum air vents require a smaller vent hose than the
plastic vents.
Thanks,
Kevin Beaton
San Antonio, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Nutplates on Center Pass Through |
>
>Listers:
>
>The plans call for putting in the nutplates on the center pass through but
>seem to be pretty vague as to where exactly they go. I am afraid to drill
>holes in the pass through spars without mating up the other part.
>
>Did you guys install the nutplates during initial pass through construction
>or did you wait until later in fuselage construction?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Len
>RV-8A fuselage
Len,
Dwg 11 shows dimensions for two on the top, on View #3, near the top
right corner of the sheet. The dimensions for the four on the lower
part of the F-804A are shown on Dwg 11, View #2.
Note - these dimensions appear to have been added at Revision R1 to
Dwg 11. I'm home today, so I can scan and e-mail it to you if you
don't have that revision.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RE:Bending Longerons |
>
>What am I missing? It looks so simple when George does it on the tapes.
>
>When I clamp the longerons together and put them into the vise they are
>already separated at the end by 2 1/2" which means to measure I will have to
>set up some type of center line to measure from.
>
>Did you guys have to do this or am I missing something?
>
>Len
Yeah, mine did that too. Before making each bend, I just measured
how far apart they were and added that to the distance I wanted to
bend. Worked out fine.
There is an error in the plans though. The first bend in the F-887
upper longeron is given as 2 11/32 at 80 15/16 inches, or 3. I was
suspicious when 3 did not equal 2 11/32 (it comes out to about 4 1/4
inches), and by the recent RVator note about fuselages being too wide
at the F-802 bulkhead. So, I went back to first principles. The
longeron is straight between the F-807 and F-812 bulkheads. I
extrapolated that line to calculate how far apart the bulkheads would
be at the F-804 bulkhead, if there was no bend. I measured the width
of my F-804 bulkhead, calculated the difference, and extrapolated it
forward to the front end of the fuselage. I calculated that I needed
to bend it 4.4 inches. So, I bent mine 4.4 inches at 80 15/16, and
did the other bend as per the plans. My longerons fell into place
within 1/4 inch once I put the twist in.
I subsequently discussed this with Vans. They said they were
changing the dimension to 4 1/8 inches.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps... |
Van supplies a DPDT-center return switch that essentially reverses the dc so the
flap motor runs " to & fro".....You can't get a visual indication of the flap
setting because the switch returns to center after you " bump " it.......paint
marks on the flap skin and reference to wing skin is the simple way. I like
eyeballing the flaps anyway. God forbid if something in the connections were to
fail I would get differential flap deployment......but I guess I would feel it
about the same time I saw it......
ted_french(at)canada.com on 02/10/2000 06:34:42 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric flaps...
Check this site for drawing....
http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/flaps.html
Ted French
Prince George BC
RV-6A flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 1:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electric flaps...
>
> I'm curious...
>
> How do you activate the electric flaps on the -8, or any other RV for that
> matter? Do you get a switch of some kind with the kit? If not, I assume
> you use a "bat" style switch of some kind, but how do you determine how
far
> down the flaps are? I would like to be able to drop the flaps in stages.
I
> don't need an indicator, but maybe three flap positions? How have other
> builders dome this?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> -Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A N912V res., wings
> http://vondane.tripod.com
> Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil... was oil filters, etc. |
I plan on using MMO in my new 2000 model RV-6A. What kind on ratios are you
guys mixing. I have heard that 4 oz in each tank (19 gallons) is enough.
Gary Zilik
Johnny Johnson wrote:
>
> <<< I also add (don't laugh) Marvel Mystery Oil to my avgas >>>
>
> Boyd,
>
> No laughing here--that stuff works IMHO. I don't have any "scientific
> evidence" to back up why I would say that, but I've used it for years in
> various light planes and several guys I know also use & like it. ..
> especially when burning auto fuel. An old A&P got me started on it.
> Some swear their engine runs smoother, I think it keeps things cleaner...
> Maybe it's just the warm fuzzy feeling you get when you do something
> "special" for the Lycosaur, I don't know... but I'll keep on using it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps... |
> God forbid if something in the connections were to
> fail I would get differential flap deployment......but I guess I
> would feel it about the same time I saw it......
And it's not something to worry about, anyway.
I've had occasion to fly an RV with a split flap situation and other
than a "heavy" wing, it was fully controllable, all the way to landing
(which was made a little fast just to be sure).
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
I looked into this.. the 2" scat will fit around the small flange on the
alum vent. It will not have alot of grip but enough. The last time I
checked spruce was out of the vents...better get your order in.
C.H.
----------
> From: kevin beaton <beatonk(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents
> Date: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:31 AM
>
>
>
> I was planning on using some small aluminum airline style "eyeball" air
> vents, from Aircraft Spruce, instead of the larger plastic vents that
van's
> sales. Has anyone used these aluminum vents, and if so, what hose
> configuration did you use to connect the vent to the nasa air inlet? I
know
> that the smaller aluminum air vents require a smaller vent hose than the
> plastic vents.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Beaton
> San Antonio, Tx
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Power output |
>
>I have been using the Old Wifes Tale for quick in
>flight power estimates.
>
>RPMs in 100 + Manifold Pressure in inches = Number for
>power.
>
>2,400 RPM + 24 inches = 24 + 24 = 48 = 75% power.
>+3 = 10% increase
>-3 = 10% decrease
>
>49 = 85% power.
>45 = 65% power.
>42 = 55% power.
>
>Some of this info was published in Van's RVator a
>couple of years back. The + / - 3 is how I remember
>it.
>
>It is easy to remember this when flying. It can be a
>couple of % off with temperature but this is close
>enough. I do run my O-320 OVER SQUARE with but not
>with more than 3 inches more MAP than hundred of RPM.
This rule of thumb is also greatly affected by altitude. For
example, according to Lycoming's power charts for the O-360A, 2400
rpm & 24 inches = about 75% power at sea level, but 2400 rpm & 24
inches is about 82% power at 5,000 ft. At 5,000 ft, you would want
2400 rpm and 22.5 inches to give 75% power.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil... was oil filters, etc. |
Pure-ists will tell you that adding a top oil like MMO will reduce the octain a
bit...but that is of no matter for us RV-ers. Also, adding anything thats not
STC'ed, TSO-ed, 337-ed, Approvred, Blessed or otherwise FAA-ed anointed is
probably not allowed......be that as it may, I ran 4 ozs. to 20 gallons with
success (what ever that was/is). Important......I allways added the MMO during
the fueling process or mixed a gallon of fuel with the MMO and pored the gallon
in...the point being not to glug in the MMO & letting it fall to the tank
bottom as a slug of oil and thereby get sucked into the fuel pickup. ( I don't
imagine a light top oil doing this so being annal in the mixing probably me feel
good more so than be of any real value add......)
zilik(at)bewellnet.com on 02/11/2000 10:54:08 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Marvel Mystery Oil... was oil filters, etc.
I plan on using MMO in my new 2000 model RV-6A. What kind on ratios are you
guys mixing. I have heard that 4 oz in each tank (19 gallons) is enough.
Gary Zilik
Johnny Johnson wrote:
>
> <<< I also add (don't laugh) Marvel Mystery Oil to my avgas >>>
>
> Boyd,
>
> No laughing here--that stuff works IMHO. I don't have any "scientific
> evidence" to back up why I would say that, but I've used it for years in
> various light planes and several guys I know also use & like it. ..
> especially when burning auto fuel. An old A&P got me started on it.
> Some swear their engine runs smoother, I think it keeps things cleaner...
> Maybe it's just the warm fuzzy feeling you get when you do something
> "special" for the Lycosaur, I don't know... but I'll keep on using it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Picture - Left Hand RV-6 Throttle |
To all,
Here's my solutions for flying with the stick in my right hand. It worked out
pretty well. Seems to be a natural position for my left hand, and out of the
way of my leg.
http://www.planes-wings-things.com/images/Owens_RV-6.jpg
Laird RV-6 22923 (working on a kit for the panel)
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
>I was planning on using some small aluminum airline style "eyeball" air
>vents, from Aircraft Spruce, instead of the larger plastic vents that van's
>sales. Has anyone used these aluminum vents, and if so, what hose
>configuration did you use to connect the vent to the nasa air inlet? I know
>that the smaller aluminum air vents require a smaller vent hose than the
>plastic vents.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Beaton
>San Antonio, Tx
Kevin,
I believe the vents that Spruce sells will work with a 2" hose. You do
not want to use vents similar to those found on a lot of passenger jets.
The hole is too small and won't give you enough air. The Spruce vents do
have a large opening and work well.
To adapt the 2" hose to the rear of the eyeball vents I used in my six, I
molded some out of fiberglass using one of the aluminum, 2" flanges I
bought for use on the FAB box and rear baffle. I polished it up on a lathe
and waxed it. Then, while doing another fiberglass project, I used some
extra resin and scraps of glass to lay up 2-3 layers on the aluminum
flange. Everytime I had a little extra goop, I'd make another flange.
They were lightweight and almost free. I glued the fiberglass flanges to
the rear of the eyeball vents. Proseal, J-B weld, RTV or 5 minute epoxy
with mill fibers should work well for this.
I used Van's molded plastic NACA vent, prosealed to the fuselage sides.
Don't forget to put some screen over the hose end of the NACA thingy to
keep bugs out of the cockpit.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil... was oil filters, etc. |
I talked to an old timer who has been rebuilding engines for eons. He sent
some MMO out for analasys. Turns out it is the most refined oil on the face
of the earth. It has potassium in it for lubrication, another type of
cleaner, Wintergreen for the aroma. MMO has all the carbon removed. This
gentleman said it will keep your valve guides clean. (Most important).
He recommended 4oz per 10 gallons for fuel, and what is on the can for oil.
I.e. use it both in the fuel, and the oil. One problem with getting to rich
in the fuel is lowering of the octana reading, so stay on the lean mixture
side.
These observations were taken from my notes. Based on the gentlemans
credentials I would have to lean towards beliving him.
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Training with Mike Seagar |
> Hi,
>
> Mike Seager will be giving RV training in Columbia, SC April
6,7, and 8.
> Please email off list for time slots available.
>
> Thanks
> Patty Gillies
> RV-6 Finish kit
> gillies-patty(at)sc.edu
> work (803) 777-5269
> home (803) 787-7506
> hangar (803) 254-2997
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
John Harmon sells the large aluminum eyeball vents for $88.00 each. If you
use the smaller ones (as I did) you will need to make an adapter so that a
2" scat tube will fit. I made my adapters on a lathe out of aluminum which
press-fit onto the flange on the back of my vent.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Dow AgroSciences Information Management
Broadwing IT Consulting
bob.japundza(at)broadwing.com
bjapundza(at)dowagro.com
317-337-5348
-----Original Message-----
From: christopher huey [mailto:clhuey(at)sprynet.com]
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents
I looked into this.. the 2" scat will fit around the small flange on the
alum vent. It will not have alot of grip but enough. The last time I
checked spruce was out of the vents...better get your order in.
C.H.
----------
> From: kevin beaton <beatonk(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents
> Date: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:31 AM
>
>
>
> I was planning on using some small aluminum airline style "eyeball" air
> vents, from Aircraft Spruce, instead of the larger plastic vents that
van's
> sales. Has anyone used these aluminum vents, and if so, what hose
> configuration did you use to connect the vent to the nasa air inlet? I
know
> that the smaller aluminum air vents require a smaller vent hose than the
> plastic vents.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Beaton
> San Antonio, Tx
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Power Chart |
Larry--
Give this a try for your % power calculations. Fuel flow v. HP is a
curved line so you can't just throw one one number multiplier at it.
PROCEDURE: Note your MAP and esp. your fuel flow in gal./hr. at full
power takeoff. Your Max. HP is the fuel flow in gal./hr. x 11.5. You
can then simply plot your fuel flow at any MAP/RPM setting and calculate
your HP. You can crosscheck this this if you any MAP/RPM formulas. A
variant of this procedure is used in "Benchmark" from Sequoia Aircraft
to graph an experimental aircraft's polar-drag chart. It is
self-correcting for rich/lean settings as changing the fuel/air mixture
changes your HP proportionately.
Boyd.
RV-Super Six
Flying
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I have been frustrated with my inability to determine, with any degree of
> accuracy, what power percentage I am running. I was hoping to develop
> some sort of chart for this, but have been unable to.
>
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KRUETZFELDT,KEITH (HP-SanJose,ex1)" <keith_kruetzfeldt(at)agilent.com> |
| Subject: | slider vs tilt canopy |
I plan on ordering the fuselage kit for the RV-6 very soon but can
decide on the slider or tilt up canopy. I figure the tilt up had better
foward visibilty and the slider is better for taxiing (cooling). Would
appreciate any insights builders/owners have as to the pro's and con's of
each of the canopy styles so I can make an "informed" decision.
On a second note, I have never flown a taildragger before and have
about 120hrs mostly in Cessnas- is it a reasonable assumption that this can
be learned and mastered pretty easily?
Keith Kruetzfeldt
RV-6 (tailkit, wingkit)
San Jose, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
Chief sells them for 59.00. That's what I used, but I'm not flying yet so I have
no performance report.
Laird RV-6 (system installation)
SoCal
Bob Japundza wrote:
John Harmon sells the large aluminum eyeball vents for $88.00 each. If you
use the smaller ones (as I did) you will need to make an adapter so that a
2" scat tube will fit. I made my adapters on a lathe out of aluminum which
press-fit onto the flange on the back of my vent.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil... was oil filters, etc. |
>
> I talked to an old timer who has been rebuilding engines for eons. He sent
> some MMO out for analasys. Turns out it is the most refined oil on the
face
> of the earth. It has potassium in it for lubrication, another type of
> cleaner, Wintergreen for the aroma. MMO has all the carbon removed. This
> gentleman said it will keep your valve guides clean. (Most important).
> He recommended 4oz per 10 gallons for fuel, and what is on the can for
oil.
> I.e. use it both in the fuel, and the oil. One problem with getting to
rich
> in the fuel is lowering of the octana reading, so stay on the lean mixture
> side.
> These observations were taken from my notes. Based on the gentlemans
> credentials I would have to lean towards beliving him.
>
> Ed Storo RV-8
>
Ed,
Refining is the process of physical seperation of a feedstock (crude) into
various boiling point ranges. Natural gas comes off under ambient pressure
and temperature, some heat is required to separate gasoline and jet fuel,
then lower pressures (vacuum distillation) to pull off the heaver oils.
From this distillation fractions further processing can occur to remove
other bad actors like sulfur. This is done with various reactions and
catalyst. One thing that cannot be removed is carbon. Oil is a
hydrocarbon. If you remove the carbon, what is left is not oil. The basic
building block of all oil molecules is CH4 That is a carbon atom with 4
hydrogens attached to it. It is methane. This is natural gas and doesn't
smell at all unless you add something to it. When you start glueing this
methane molecules togather in strings you get heavier molecules like
gasoline, jet fuel and then oil. For easy visualization think of Gasoline
as being roughly a 8 Carbon molecule, Jet fuel and diesel is about 10 to 11
Carbons, and oil runs form 18 into the hundreds when you are talking about
SAE 50.
Marvel Mystery oil has LOTS of carbon in it.
As to whether or not to use it, No Comment...
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
You pretty much got it. Visibility (tip up) verses cooling. The visibility
in the tip up is better, but the slider visibility is still far better than
anything you have ever flown. Some say the tip up is "easier". While I
have not constructed a slider, I don't know how it could be any harder.
They are both difficult, and the most challenging portion of the airplane.
I say, see which one "looks" better to you, as that is what you will see
everytime you open that hanger door. For me, it was the tip up.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
----- Original Message -----
From: "KRUETZFELDT,KEITH (HP-SanJose,ex1)" <keith_kruetzfeldt(at)agilent.com>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: slider vs tilt canopy
>
>
> I plan on ordering the fuselage kit for the RV-6 very soon but can
> decide on the slider or tilt up canopy. I figure the tilt up had better
> foward visibilty and the slider is better for taxiing (cooling). Would
> appreciate any insights builders/owners have as to the pro's and con's of
> each of the canopy styles so I can make an "informed" decision.
> On a second note, I have never flown a taildragger before and have
> about 120hrs mostly in Cessnas- is it a reasonable assumption that this
can
> be learned and mastered pretty easily?
>
> Keith Kruetzfeldt
> RV-6 (tailkit, wingkit)
> San Jose, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE:Bending Longerons |
In addition to getting the correct specs as Kevin points out below, my
advice is to not even consider bending them both in the vice at the same
time as George does. A better approach is to put them first on your flat
concrete floor. Draw a centerline the entire length with a Sharpie. Then
mark the bend points, and the correct points of deflection at the ends. Then
put one longeron at a time in the vice, bend it, put it back on the floor,
and see if you've bent it enough relative to the known and precisely
measured marks on the floor. Also, beware that when you attempt to bend the
longeron in one plane it will displace slightly 90 degrees to it also. You
will end up bending it at an angle to avoid this. You'll see once you get
into it. The manual is actually pretty good on this step.
It is important to get the longerons right as they form the foundation for
much of the fuselage. PLEASE don't ask me how I know. Trust me when I say
that if you don't get the longerons right you'll have all sorts of problems
down the road.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500,
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE:Bending Longerons
>
>
> >
> >What am I missing? It looks so simple when George does it on the tapes.
> >
> >When I clamp the longerons together and put them into the vise they are
> >already separated at the end by 2 1/2" which means to measure I will have
to
> >set up some type of center line to measure from.
> >
> >Did you guys have to do this or am I missing something?
> >
> >Len
>
>
> Yeah, mine did that too. Before making each bend, I just measured
> how far apart they were and added that to the distance I wanted to
> bend. Worked out fine.
>
> There is an error in the plans though. The first bend in the F-887
> upper longeron is given as 2 11/32 at 80 15/16 inches, or 3. I was
> suspicious when 3 did not equal 2 11/32 (it comes out to about 4 1/4
> inches), and by the recent RVator note about fuselages being too wide
> at the F-802 bulkhead. So, I went back to first principles. The
> longeron is straight between the F-807 and F-812 bulkheads. I
> extrapolated that line to calculate how far apart the bulkheads would
> be at the F-804 bulkhead, if there was no bend. I measured the width
> of my F-804 bulkhead, calculated the difference, and extrapolated it
> forward to the front end of the fuselage. I calculated that I needed
> to bend it 4.4 inches. So, I bent mine 4.4 inches at 80 15/16, and
> did the other bend as per the plans. My longerons fell into place
> within 1/4 inch once I put the twist in.
>
> I subsequently discussed this with Vans. They said they were
> changing the dimension to 4 1/8 inches.
>
> Take care,
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Wieght and balance |
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 8:29 PM
Subject: Fw: Wieght and balance
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 6:43 PM
Subject: Wieght and balance
For those concerned about getting to much weight forward on the RV 6 this
is my experience.
My RV 6 is bit on the heavy side,1120 lbs with a full IFR panel,
upholstery,battery
in standard location, fuel injected 180 HP 0360 with a constant speed prop.
In level flight with full tanks,two people on board at 65% power the
elevator trim tab is in dead neutral.
Persons of different weights has little effect on the trim. With two people
and 100 lbs in the baggage compartment at the same power setting in cruise
the elevator trim is only deflected around 3/8 of an inch nose down trim.
It seems that the RV 6 doesn't have a problem with the weight forward.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Picture - Left Hand RV-6 Throttle |
> To all,
>
> Here's my solutions for flying with the stick in my right hand. It
> worked out pretty well. Seems to be a natural position for my left
> hand, and out of the way of my leg.
>
> http://www.planes-wings-things.com/images/Owens_RV-6.jpg
>
> Laird RV-6 22923 (working on a kit for the panel)
Nice panel, Laird. You must be the fellow who planted the seed of that
throttle placement in my little mind.
A quadrant seems a little intrusive, but the left-side panel mount
seems perfect!
Now for the flap switch just above the throttle to operate with
forefinger while holding throttle...
And that switch on the right side - Master Arm?
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil... was oil filters, etc. |
Doug,
I realize that anything coming out of the ground is carbon based. What I am
doing is relating to you what Al Ball (master engine builder) told me. e has
way more experience than both of us put together. So take this and all info
for what is worth. So far I am happy with it because it smells good.
Ed
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Power Chart |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
>Larry--
>
>Give this a try for your % power calculations. Fuel flow v. HP is a
>curved line so you can't just throw one one number multiplier at it.
>PROCEDURE: Note your MAP and esp. your fuel flow in gal./hr. at full
>power takeoff. Your Max. HP is the fuel flow in gal./hr. x 11.5. You
>can then simply plot your fuel flow at any MAP/RPM setting and calculate
>your HP. You can crosscheck this this if you any MAP/RPM formulas. A
>variant of this procedure is used in "Benchmark" from Sequoia Aircraft
>to graph an experimental aircraft's polar-drag chart. It is
>self-correcting for rich/lean settings as changing the fuel/air mixture
>changes your HP proportionately.
>
>Boyd.
Boyd,
I think this is a good idea, and for a long time I figured it was the
only way I would have of determining power. It does rely on an accurate
fuel flow meter, and leaning to best power.
One of my problems is that my fuel flow meter is intermittent (Vision,
I'm working on it) and when it does work it doesn't give a steady
indication, although it is accurate over long periods. My other problem
is that I like to cruise at mixture settings just rich of rough (per
Lycoming) and I believe one would have to lean to best power to make your
idea work. I am not willing to run my engine that rich.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Power Chart |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
>Larry--
>
>Give this a try for your % power calculations. Fuel flow v. HP is a
>curved line so you can't just throw one one number multiplier at it.
>PROCEDURE: Note your MAP and esp. your fuel flow in gal./hr. at full
>power takeoff. Your Max. HP is the fuel flow in gal./hr. x 11.5. You
>can then simply plot your fuel flow at any MAP/RPM setting and calculate
>your HP. You can crosscheck this this if you any MAP/RPM formulas. A
>variant of this procedure is used in "Benchmark" from Sequoia Aircraft
>to graph an experimental aircraft's polar-drag chart. It is
>self-correcting for rich/lean settings as changing the fuel/air mixture
>changes your HP proportionately.
>
I don't know much about this, but there does not appear to be much change
in power from around 16 GPH to 11 GPH. Maybe it works well at mixtures
closer to the optimum.
For anyone interested in using my charts, Kevin Horton sent me some much
smaller PDF files, that may easily sized if you have Acrobat Reader.
They are available for download on my site.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | cowl removal -6A |
After breaking an exhaust mount and warping the lower cowl a bit I replaced
the narrow gear leg slot with a large triangular cut out from aluminum,
pretty much the entire horizontal surface below the carb. This helps
immensely when removing the lower cowl and avoiding rubbing the top of the
front gear leg. The cut out is split front/back and held in with nutplated
screws. Except to those guys crawling underneath at air shows, it doesn't
show. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Power Chart |
>v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
>Give this a try for your % power calculations. Fuel flow v. HP is a
>curved line so you can't just throw one one number multiplier at it.
>PROCEDURE: Note your MAP and esp. your fuel flow in gal./hr. at full
>power takeoff. Your Max. HP is the fuel flow in gal./hr. x 11.5. You
>can then simply plot your fuel flow at any MAP/RPM setting and calculate
>your HP. You can crosscheck this this if you any MAP/RPM formulas. A
>variant of this procedure is used in "Benchmark" from Sequoia Aircraft
>to graph an experimental aircraft's polar-drag chart. It is
>self-correcting for rich/lean settings as changing the fuel/air mixture
>changes your HP proportionately.
>
>Boyd.
Boyd,
There certainly is a good relationship between fuel flow and
horsepower, but only if you are very particular to lean the same way
every time. Changing mixture does not change your HP proportionally.
For example, the following data is from Lycoming curve No. 12699A,
"Part Throttle Fuel Consumption Lycoming IO-360-A,-C Series" (from a
Lycoming operators handbook). It has curves for various rpm and
mixture settings (best power or best economy). For 55% power (110
hp), the fuel flows vary from 45.5 lb/hr (2000 rpm at best economy
mixture) to 60 lb/hr (2700 rpm at best power mixture). Thus the hp
per gal/hr varies from 11.0 to 14.5 between these two cases. There
are two reasons for this: the engine wastes less power to overcome
the internal friction at lower rpm, so that makes it more efficient.
And, the engine is simply is more efficient at mixtures leaner than
best power mixture.
But, if you always lean to best power (or some other setting such as
X degrees rich of peak EGT), you should have a pretty consistent
relationship between fuel flow and power.
See
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/leaning_lycoming_
engines.html for some info from Lycoming.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Greenway" <rvbiulder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Where is a good place to buy P60-R2 primer |
Hey guys,
Where can I buy Sherwinn Williams Self etching primer: P60-R2??
The Sherwinn Williams store down the street doesn't sell it.
Both the spray can and also if it comes in two part.
Thanks guys
-Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Picture - Left Hand RV-6 Throttle |
Thanks Mike,
I appreicate it. The way I layed it out, the flap switch is just right of the
mixture. You can still operate it with your hand on the throttle, and it away
from the other switches. The primer button is just left of the throttle.
The guarded switch is the essential bus switch. If I were to do it again I would
use a smaller "lift/lock" type switch. That guard take up a lot of space and
looks a little out of place, for a switch that (I hope) will never be used.
I have 4 (IMO) critical C/B's on the right panel that I can try to reset once.
All other circuits are on a blade fuse block (from E Bob) behind the engine gauges.
If I have to replace a fuse, I need to remove that panel, but I'll probably
be back there touble shooting anyway.
Thanks again,
Laird RV-6 22923 (95% done, 50% to go ;-)
SoCal
Nice panel, Laird. You must be the fellow who planted the seed of that
throttle placement in my little mind.
A quadrant seems a little intrusive, but the left-side panel mount
seems perfect!
Now for the flap switch just above the throttle to operate with
forefinger while holding throttle...
And that switch on the right side - Master Arm?
:)
Mike Thompson
> To all,
>
> Here's my solutions for flying with the stick in my right hand. It
> worked out pretty well. Seems to be a natural position for my left
> hand, and out of the way of my leg.
>
> http://www.planes-wings-things.com/images/Owens_RV-6.jpg
>
> Laird RV-6 22923 (working on a kit for the panel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
JJ;
I agree. I balanced my 0-320's internal parts when I
rebuilt it, installed a Jeff Rose ignition and the
difference was AMAZING. My "balanced" Sterba will turn
2850 in military power now at 5000' with incredible
smoothness. I also have a Mark Landoll harmonic
balancer up front which helps the CG and smoothness.
It weighs 14 lbs. The metal sensy is a good prop and
with a visit from Steve at good vibrations balancing,
it can be fairly smooth I'm told. However, I could buy
alot of gas with 2 grand.
By the way, once the airplane is signed off, a prop
change is a logbook entry. The sensy prop is
experimental, but it depends on the FSDO as to the
demo hours. I like the wood props ability to absorb
vibration and not act like a flywheel during
aerobatics. If I could have my druthers, I would save
up and buy an MT composite or a hoffman auto-pitch and
be done with it. (Hoffman and MT make composite props
for airliners) Hoffmans US sales rep lives at the
Marion, NC airport, a beautiful grass strip and worth
a visit. The 2 blade Hoffman automatically advances
the pitch with RPM and has been highly sucessful in
Germany on motorgliders. It is wood covered with
carbon graphite. The MT 3 blade is spendy, but the
absolute best you can buy, in my opinion. Hoffman has
a demo prop on a skybolt right now. The other option
is to have Ed Sterba build you a custom prop with
graphite tips.
On Flying Pax, be sure your tanks are full as that
helps alot. Bottom line, the rear seat in an RV4 was
designed for little people, ie..girls. Unless of
course you'd rather haul guys.....ha.
Smokey
--- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> Maj, AF/XOOT"
>
> Smokey,
>
> Balancing is VERY important, especially on the light
> weight of our aircraft.
> The prop on my Mooney was balanced and the
> difference was incredible! I'm
> assuming you have to go through the FAA again and
> get another flight fly-off
> restriction for the Airthworthiness Cert again etc.
> Anyone out there flying
> with a metal Sensi on their RV-4?
>
> Besides the obvious benefits of no rain damage and
> no bolt torqueing, the
> weight up front would be helpful for bigger Bubba's
> in the back, like me
> when my wife is flying!
>
> Jj
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 9:24 PM
> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
>
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
>
> Jim;
>
> I mulled over the same question recently too. My
> Sterba has given 4 years of great service but is
> aging
> quickly. A friend of mine in PHX removed his wood
> prop
> recently in favor of heavy metal, and sent it back
> after one flight. VIBRATION was noticeably higher.
> So
> back to the wood. However, Mark Spry, a -4 driver in
> AL has a fixed pitch Sensy metal and had it balanced
> at a prop shop prior to installation with good
> results. Your call. I am holding out for the Global
> QCS caron fiber prop out of MS. See ya.
>
> Smokey
>
> --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> >
> > Awesome. Anyone help here: Currently I have a
> > Sterba prop on my RV-4. It
> > has been excellent and provides consistent 1900
> fpm
> > climb and 192 mph
> > cruise. Following my flight yesterday, I was
> > noticing that the wood prop is
> > developing some hair line cracks midway up the
> blade
> > on one side toward the
> > leading edge. Long story short, I'm debating
> > switching to a metal Sensinich
> > (Sp?) propeller on my O-320 150hp RV-4. Anyone
> out
> > there done the switch?
> > What is involved (paper work and hand work) and is
> > the metal prop BETTER
> > performing than the wood prop? I do use my RV for
> > acro but seem to (so far)
> > have the discipline to NOT over RPM the engine!!!
> >
> > Jj
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2000 5:47 PM
> > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> >
> >
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> >
> > Dude;
> >
> > Flew mine out to the coast the other day and saw
> a
> > bunch of whales, landed at a couple of cool
> > beachfront
> > airports and generally made a nuisance of myself.
> > NoCal has alot to see and do especially if you
> have
> > an
> > airplane. Every airport it seems has a cafe with
> > decent grub. Alot of RV's out there too. I'm in
> Bama
> > this weekend flying the viper...
> >
> > BJRB
> >
> > --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> > wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James,
> > > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> > >
> > > Not yet Dude. I haven't even been down to my
> > > beloved -4 in four weeks.
> > > I've been stuck up here, mostly stuck in SNOW.
> > Keep
> > > it flying Smokey...I'm
> > > jealous!
> > >
> > > Jj
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 1:53 PM
> > > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> > >
> > >
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> > >
> > >
> > > It's a small hole, not too expensive....Just
> don't
> > > use
> > > the word Nee. How's life at the puzzle palace? I
> > > have
> > > been digging Southwest and flying up and down
> the
> > > Northen Cal coast. Alot of neat places to go out
> > > here.
> > > I still go back to Bama to fly the viper, but
> > that's
> > > getting old real fast. I guess I'm spoiled. You
> > get
> > > your cowling fixed?
> > >
> > > Smokey
> > >
> > > --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT"
> > > wrote:
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson,
> James,
> > > > Maj, AF/XOOT"
> > > >
> > > > Rob,
> > > >
> > > > Another question one could ask is what happens
> > to
> > > > the structural integrity
> > > > of the roll bar with a rather large hole
> drilled
> > > > through it supporting the
> > > > pin?
> > > >
> > > > Of course, as my old instructor used to say,
> "At
> > > > this point your luck has
> > > > been quite miserable. What makes you think
> it's
February 05, 2000 - February 11, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hx