RV-Archive.digest.vol-hy
February 11, 2000 - February 17, 2000
> > > > about to change. S---
> > > > happens!"
> > > >
> > > > Jj
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com]
> > > > Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:16 PM
> > > > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 canopy latch
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Rion;'
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I'll try to take a photo for you. First,
> > several
> > > > egress considerations from a canopy aircraft
> are
> > > > presented in the RV4. I have been flying the
> > F-16
> > > > for
> > > > 12 years now and it's canopy is exactly like
> the
> > > -4
> > > > except it weighs 390 pounds! It hinges at the
> > rear
> > > > and
> > > > is electrically raised and lowered. It is
> > > > explosively
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Brakes |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
Has anybody tried to rig up brakes in the back seat of an RV-8??
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where is a good place to buy P60-R2 primer |
Matt,
Maybe dumb question here, but is the Sherwin Williams store you checked a
home paint store or one of their automotive stores. The self-etching primer
is only available through their automotive paint stores.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
The wiring is done!!...the wirng is
Done!!
>From: "Matthew Greenway" <rvbiulder(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Where is a good place to buy P60-R2 primer
>Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 16:31:20 EST
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
>Where can I buy Sherwinn Williams Self etching primer: P60-R2??
>The Sherwinn Williams store down the street doesn't sell it.
>
>Both the spray can and also if it comes in two part.
>
>Thanks guys
>
>-Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
>
>Chief sells them for 59.00.
Then they must be half that somewhere else!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil... was oil filters, etc. |
Marel makes a device called an Inverse Oiler. It meters a precise amount
of MMO into the mixture. The amount is variable.
I think this would be terrific on aircraft if you want to use he stuff.
BTW for years I used nothing but MMO as a 2 stroke oil in motorcycles.
It mixes with gas and burns very clean. Plugs lasted longer and never
had a seizure.
I think it is a great product
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <skydiven(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: prop me up! |
> Bottom line, the rear seat in an RV4 was
> designed for little people, ie..girls.
Perhaps. But I'm a 5'10" 180lb man and I was VERY comfortable in the back
of the RV-4. It did have the foot wells and I could see how without them
it would be considerably less comfy......but I was comfortable enough to
make the -4 my choice.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
Same thoughts I had before I went with the slider. Something else I
considered is abilty to slide the canopy back on short final if I ever have
to make an unscheduled off-airport landing. I don't know how viable that
course of action is and I hope I never get to find out. Perhaps someone who
has flown an RV-6 with the canopy unlocked might share their experience and
thoughts with us.
One more piece of info. Three of the four flying RV-6/6A's at our airport
have sliding canopies and the builder of the tip-up said that, if he had it
to do over again, he would go with the slider. He is not unhappy with the
tip-up, it is just a very close call.
I don't think there is a wrong choice.
> On a second note, I have never flown a taildragger before and have
>about 120hrs mostly in Cessnas- is it a reasonable assumption that this can
>be learned and mastered pretty easily?
My hangar mate was in about the same category as you when he flew his RV-4
for the first time last year. It is an easy tail dragger to fly but he made
IMHO a very wise choice to get a complete checkout from Mike Seager. He did
it when his aircraft was ready to fly, had to go to Oregon to do it. After
about five hours in three sorties, he came back really ready and confident.
A good thing. because on his first flight, his engine began to act up
causing him to return early and make a precautionary landing. Almost a
non-event because of his recent, previous training.
My advice is to get all the stick time you can beg, borrow or steal from
your RV friends and then go see Mike Seager when your airplane is ready to
fly. RV's are pussy cats but they can still bite if don't treat them right.
Standing down off soap box now.
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harrellace(at)aol.com |
Please take me off your list.
Thanks Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Power Chart |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>
> >v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP
> >
> >Give this a try for your % power calculations. Fuel flow v. HP is a
> >curved line so you can't just throw one one number multiplier at it.
> >PROCEDURE: Note your MAP and esp. your fuel flow in gal./hr. at full
> >power takeoff. Your Max. HP is the fuel flow in gal./hr. x 11.5. You
> >can then simply plot your fuel flow at any MAP/RPM setting and calculate
> >your HP. You can crosscheck this this if you any MAP/RPM formulas. A
> >variant of this procedure is used in "Benchmark" from Sequoia Aircraft
> >to graph an experimental aircraft's polar-drag chart. It is
> >self-correcting for rich/lean settings as changing the fuel/air mixture
> >changes your HP proportionately.
> >
> >Boyd.
>
> Boyd,
>
> There certainly is a good relationship between fuel flow and
> horsepower, but only if you are very particular to lean the same way
> every time. Changing mixture does not change your HP proportionally.
> For example, the following data is from Lycoming curve No. 12699A,
> "Part Throttle Fuel Consumption Lycoming IO-360-A,-C Series" (from a
> Lycoming operators handbook). It has curves for various rpm and
> mixture settings (best power or best economy). For 55% power (110
> hp), the fuel flows vary from 45.5 lb/hr (2000 rpm at best economy
> mixture) to 60 lb/hr (2700 rpm at best power mixture). Thus the hp
> per gal/hr varies from 11.0 to 14.5 between these two cases. There
> are two reasons for this: the engine wastes less power to overcome
> the internal friction at lower rpm, so that makes it more efficient.
> And, the engine is simply is more efficient at mixtures leaner than
> best power mixture.
>
> But, if you always lean to best power (or some other setting such as
> X degrees rich of peak EGT), you should have a pretty consistent
> relationship between fuel flow and power.
>
> See
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/leaning_lycoming_
> engines.html for some info from Lycoming.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
>
Kevin--
Thanks for the reminder to never put math up on the bulletin board--what
I meant to say was that you have to make three fuel flow curves--full
rich --best rich power--lean (you have to decide whether you want to
lean on the rich or the lean side of stoichiometric) and plot three
separate graphs--the leaning/richening in these graphs corrects the
power calc, tho you still need to add an air density equation to convert
to sea level, depending on your airport.
Once we all get voice transcription software on our machines this
problem will decrease.
I still don't understand it all but I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
Boyd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stick boots |
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/catsub1.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 very comfortably outfitted with DJ seats)
----------------------------
Rquinn1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Dwain
> You replied to a message from Wesley regarding boots for control sticks from
> D J Lauitsen. Do you have an address for Lauitsen?
> Thanks
> Rollie and Son
> 6A Finishing kit here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil... was oil filters, etc. |
>
>I plan on using MMO in my new 2000 model RV-6A. What kind on ratios are you
>guys mixing. I have heard that 4 oz in each tank (19 gallons) is enough.
>
>Gary Zilik
>
I've been adding 4 oz. to each 10 gallons of fuel as it says on the can.
I'm certainly not bothering to meter it out exactly, but that's a rough
estimate of what I'm adding. So far so good. No stuck valves, clean exhaust
pipes, engine fires up right away, and runs smooth....or at least as smooth
as a Lycosaur can be! Since I don't have any long term experience with MMO,
I'm just going on word of mouth from those who have. It does smell neat, and
goes great with tonic water on the rocks. ;) AKA "the aviator's cocktail".
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Flight to FMN today. HUGE fun, puffy clouds and a free breakfast courtesy of
another RV8 builder. Thanks Mike!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
Bob...
I have a friend with an RV-6A who had the tip up canopy open in flight.
That is another reason for the slider. He happened to have a passenger who
grabbed the canopy, but the airplane doesn't like to have the canopy open in
flight.
Dick White
RV-8QB systems
Newport, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: slider vs tilt canopy
>
> Same thoughts I had before I went with the slider. Something else I
> considered is abilty to slide the canopy back on short final if I ever
have
> to make an unscheduled off-airport landing. I don't know how viable that
> course of action is and I hope I never get to find out. Perhaps someone
who
> has flown an RV-6 with the canopy unlocked might share their experience
and
> thoughts with us.
>
> One more piece of info. Three of the four flying RV-6/6A's at our airport
> have sliding canopies and the builder of the tip-up said that, if he had
it
> to do over again, he would go with the slider. He is not unhappy with the
> tip-up, it is just a very close call.
>
> I don't think there is a wrong choice.
>
> > On a second note, I have never flown a taildragger before and have
> >about 120hrs mostly in Cessnas- is it a reasonable assumption that this
can
> >be learned and mastered pretty easily?
>
> My hangar mate was in about the same category as you when he flew his RV-4
> for the first time last year. It is an easy tail dragger to fly but he
made
> IMHO a very wise choice to get a complete checkout from Mike Seager. He
did
> it when his aircraft was ready to fly, had to go to Oregon to do it.
After
> about five hours in three sorties, he came back really ready and
confident.
> A good thing. because on his first flight, his engine began to act up
> causing him to return early and make a precautionary landing. Almost a
> non-event because of his recent, previous training.
>
> My advice is to get all the stick time you can beg, borrow or steal from
> your RV friends and then go see Mike Seager when your airplane is ready to
> fly. RV's are pussy cats but they can still bite if don't treat them
right.
> Standing down off soap box now.
>
>
> Bob Hall
> RV-6, Colorado Springs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
Why can't that happen with a slider?
Richard White wrote:
>
> Bob...
>
> I have a friend with an RV-6A who had the tip up canopy open in flight.
> That is another reason for the slider. He happened to have a passenger who
> grabbed the canopy, but the airplane doesn't like to have the canopy open in
> flight.
>
> Dick White
> RV-8QB systems
> Newport, OR
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 3:51 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: slider vs tilt canopy
>
> >
> > Same thoughts I had before I went with the slider. Something else I
> > considered is abilty to slide the canopy back on short final if I ever
> have
> > to make an unscheduled off-airport landing. I don't know how viable that
> > course of action is and I hope I never get to find out. Perhaps someone
> who
> > has flown an RV-6 with the canopy unlocked might share their experience
> and
> > thoughts with us.
> >
> > One more piece of info. Three of the four flying RV-6/6A's at our airport
> > have sliding canopies and the builder of the tip-up said that, if he had
> it
> > to do over again, he would go with the slider. He is not unhappy with the
> > tip-up, it is just a very close call.
> >
> > I don't think there is a wrong choice.
> >
> > > On a second note, I have never flown a taildragger before and have
> > >about 120hrs mostly in Cessnas- is it a reasonable assumption that this
> can
> > >be learned and mastered pretty easily?
> >
> > My hangar mate was in about the same category as you when he flew his RV-4
> > for the first time last year. It is an easy tail dragger to fly but he
> made
> > IMHO a very wise choice to get a complete checkout from Mike Seager. He
> did
> > it when his aircraft was ready to fly, had to go to Oregon to do it.
> After
> > about five hours in three sorties, he came back really ready and
> confident.
> > A good thing. because on his first flight, his engine began to act up
> > causing him to return early and make a precautionary landing. Almost a
> > non-event because of his recent, previous training.
> >
> > My advice is to get all the stick time you can beg, borrow or steal from
> > your RV friends and then go see Mike Seager when your airplane is ready to
> > fly. RV's are pussy cats but they can still bite if don't treat them
> right.
> > Standing down off soap box now.
> >
> >
> > Bob Hall
> > RV-6, Colorado Springs
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
>
>Bob...
>
>I have a friend with an RV-6A who had the tip up canopy open in flight.
>That is another reason for the slider. He happened to have a passenger who
>grabbed the canopy, but the airplane doesn't like to have the canopy open in
>flight.
>
>Dick White
>RV-8QB systems
>Newport, OR
The tip raises about 6" if pilot doesn't use both latches and flys fine.
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
Lebanon, OR
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning Taildraggers |
Hi Keith,
Prior to last summer, I had never flown a tail dragger, and had about 100 some
hours in Cessnas. I
decided that if I am going to learn to fly a RV6 that I had better find and learn
how to fly a
taildragger. My only option was a J-3 Cub. Took about 11 hours to get my endorsement,
now "I love
it". I'm glad I decided on the 6. Unfortunately, they put it in storage for the
winter so I am very
anxiously awaiting spring and again working with the Cub.
So, I can tell you it is very do-able, and enjoyable. Do it.
Sincerely,
David Wentzell
Racine, Wis. - RV6 - Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where is a good place to buy P60-R2 primer |
Subject: RV-List: Where is a good place to buy P60-R2 primer
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
>Where can I buy Sherwinn Williams Self etching primer: P60-R2??
>The Sherwinn Williams store down the street doesn't sell it.
>
>Both the spray can and also if it comes in two part.
If you are refering to the spray can self etch primer made by SW,it is sold
at Napa auto parts stores their No. 7220.[special order].
Look in the archives under 'Napa' for a start, you will get lots of info on
SW primer.
Derek Reed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
snips
> By the way, once the airplane is signed off, a prop
> change is a logbook entry. The sensy prop is
only if you have the 'new' paperwork on your plane (I just went through
this with the 'old' paperwork).
> experimental, but it depends on the FSDO as to the
> demo hours. I like the wood props ability to absorb
> vibration and not act like a flywheel during
> aerobatics. If I could have my druthers, I would save
> up and buy an MT composite or a hoffman auto-pitch and
> be done with it. (Hoffman and MT make composite props
> for airliners) Hoffmans US sales rep lives at the
> Marion, NC airport, a beautiful grass strip and worth
> a visit. The 2 blade Hoffman automatically advances
> the pitch with RPM and has been highly sucessful in
> Germany on motorgliders. It is wood covered with
> carbon graphite. The MT 3 blade is spendy, but the
> absolute best you can buy, in my opinion. Hoffman has
> a demo prop on a skybolt right now. The other option
> is to have Ed Sterba build you a custom prop with
> graphite tips.
snips
My experience which caused the above prop change was to lose the carbon
tip from a Warnke 'Q-tip' style prop. The carbon tip only extended about
6" and caused a stress riser in the wood where it ended. The entire tip
departed in flight, fortunately during a medium speed pass down the
runway. After landing, inspection showed the other tip about to break.
In the future, I will want to see for myself how a prop maker installs
carbon on wood.
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Power Chart |
>v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
>Kevin Horton wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > >v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP
> > >
> > >Give this a try for your % power calculations. Fuel flow v. HP is a
> > >curved line so you can't just throw one one number multiplier at it.
> > >PROCEDURE: Note your MAP and esp. your fuel flow in gal./hr. at full
> > >power takeoff. Your Max. HP is the fuel flow in gal./hr. x 11.5. You
> > >can then simply plot your fuel flow at any MAP/RPM setting and calculate
> > >your HP. You can crosscheck this this if you any MAP/RPM formulas. A
> > >variant of this procedure is used in "Benchmark" from Sequoia Aircraft
> > >to graph an experimental aircraft's polar-drag chart. It is
> > >self-correcting for rich/lean settings as changing the fuel/air mixture
> > >changes your HP proportionately.
> > >
> > >Boyd.
> >
> > Boyd,
> >
> > There certainly is a good relationship between fuel flow and
> > horsepower, but only if you are very particular to lean the same way
> > every time. Changing mixture does not change your HP proportionally.
> > For example, the following data is from Lycoming curve No. 12699A,
> > "Part Throttle Fuel Consumption Lycoming IO-360-A,-C Series" (from a
> > Lycoming operators handbook). It has curves for various rpm and
> > mixture settings (best power or best economy). For 55% power (110
> > hp), the fuel flows vary from 45.5 lb/hr (2000 rpm at best economy
> > mixture) to 60 lb/hr (2700 rpm at best power mixture). Thus the hp
> > per gal/hr varies from 11.0 to 14.5 between these two cases. There
> > are two reasons for this: the engine wastes less power to overcome
> > the internal friction at lower rpm, so that makes it more efficient.
> > And, the engine is simply is more efficient at mixtures leaner than
> > best power mixture.
> >
> > But, if you always lean to best power (or some other setting such as
> > X degrees rich of peak EGT), you should have a pretty consistent
> > relationship between fuel flow and power.
> >
> > See
> > http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/leaning_lycoming_
> > engines.html for some info from Lycoming.
> >
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
> >
>Kevin--
>
>Thanks for the reminder to never put math up on the bulletin board--what
>I meant to say was that you have to make three fuel flow curves--full
>rich --best rich power--lean (you have to decide whether you want to
>lean on the rich or the lean side of stoichiometric) and plot three
>separate graphs--the leaning/richening in these graphs corrects the
>power calc, tho you still need to add an air density equation to convert
>to sea level, depending on your airport.
>
>Once we all get voice transcription software on our machines this
>problem will decrease.
>
>I still don't understand it all but I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
>
>Boyd.
>
OK. That method probably works fine, but unless you've got the
Benchmark or a similar program, it would be simpler just to use
Lycoming's power charts. But of course all the ones I've seen are
only valid for best power mixture, which not many people use any way.
Although the more anal among us (and I guess I qualify) want to know
exactly how much power we are using, practically speaking all we need
to know is how much speed we get from a given rpm and MP, how much
fuel we will burn, and that the engine is happy. Once we figure all
that out in our flight test program, we can just use those numbers
for cross country planning, and not really worry about how much power
we are really using.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | A How To For Electrical Stuff |
Hello Listers:
A How To mount wires and cables to stop chafing. Another Secure Wires
"How To Page" http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page98.html
Best regards,
John AAMR/AirCore/Mari
neCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
--- Thomas McIntyre
wrote:
>
>
> Why can't that happen with a slider?
>
> Richard White wrote:
>
>
> > Bob...
> >
> > I have a friend with an RV-6A who had the tip up
> canopy open in flight.
> > That is another reason for the slider. He
> happened to have a passenger who
> > grabbed the canopy, but the airplane doesn't like
> to have the canopy open in
> > flight.
> >
> > Dick White
> > RV-8QB systems
> > Newport, OR
> >
Tom:
I took off last Sunday morning (6 Feb 2000) without
competing my checklist and the sliding canopy was
unlatched.
I was climbing out at 80 KIAS when I noticed that the
canopy was open about 1 inch. I removed my RIGHT hand
from the throttle at 300 AGL, closed the canopy and
latched it. Hand went back on the throttle as I
stared my turn to crosswind.
This was the first time that I have done this in over
503.8 flying hours in my RV-6.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
I had a tip up canopy on my last RV-6, I had it come open on the first
flight it was closed after opening about 4 inches. I don't think it would
have went much farther open. It is no big deal to close.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB - (N602RV reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: slider vs tilt canopy
>
> Why can't that happen with a slider?
>
> Richard White wrote:
>
> >
> > Bob...
> >
> > I have a friend with an RV-6A who had the tip up canopy open in flight.
> > That is another reason for the slider. He happened to have a passenger
who
> > grabbed the canopy, but the airplane doesn't like to have the canopy
open in
> > flight.
> >
> > Dick White
> > RV-8QB systems
> > Newport, OR
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 3:51 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: slider vs tilt canopy
> >
> > >
> > > Same thoughts I had before I went with the slider. Something else I
> > > considered is abilty to slide the canopy back on short final if I ever
> > have
> > > to make an unscheduled off-airport landing. I don't know how viable
that
> > > course of action is and I hope I never get to find out. Perhaps
someone
> > who
> > > has flown an RV-6 with the canopy unlocked might share their
experience
> > and
> > > thoughts with us.
> > >
> > > One more piece of info. Three of the four flying RV-6/6A's at our
airport
> > > have sliding canopies and the builder of the tip-up said that, if he
had
> > it
> > > to do over again, he would go with the slider. He is not unhappy with
the
> > > tip-up, it is just a very close call.
> > >
> > > I don't think there is a wrong choice.
> > >
> > > > On a second note, I have never flown a taildragger before and
have
> > > >about 120hrs mostly in Cessnas- is it a reasonable assumption that
this
> > can
> > > >be learned and mastered pretty easily?
> > >
> > > My hangar mate was in about the same category as you when he flew his
RV-4
> > > for the first time last year. It is an easy tail dragger to fly but
he
> > made
> > > IMHO a very wise choice to get a complete checkout from Mike Seager.
He
> > did
> > > it when his aircraft was ready to fly, had to go to Oregon to do it.
> > After
> > > about five hours in three sorties, he came back really ready and
> > confident.
> > > A good thing. because on his first flight, his engine began to act up
> > > causing him to return early and make a precautionary landing. Almost
a
> > > non-event because of his recent, previous training.
> > >
> > > My advice is to get all the stick time you can beg, borrow or steal
from
> > > your RV friends and then go see Mike Seager when your airplane is
ready to
> > > fly. RV's are pussy cats but they can still bite if don't treat them
> > right.
> > > Standing down off soap box now.
> > >
> > >
> > > Bob Hall
> > > RV-6, Colorado Springs
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
Hello Yall
Was working on the RV late tonight and had the television on MTV. They
were talking about some stunts then mentioned a plane trip thru the
Grand Canyon. The plane was an good looking RV4 flying low level thru
some tight turns in a narrow looking canyon. I just barely got upstairs
in time to get it on tape. The whole thing lasts about 3 minutes. The
pilot drops into the canyon, does a roll, then yanks and banks thru the
base of the twisting canyon, hooping and hollering along the way.
The guy was pretty young and obviously more than a little daredevilish.
Tomorrow the same guy will do some parachuting off a cliff.
At the end they state that: 99 out of the 100 pilots surveyed would not
attempt to perform the stunt. The guy doing it was the one pilot.
George Meketa
Rv8-QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
3.5 Hours today and 38 landings, sure is hard to get the RV6A slowed down.
Having some fun. No problems. Tomorrow another day. Its still hard to
believe that I reallly built this fabulous machine in my back yard shop. Wake
me up.
Commander Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Free Tool Bag With Order! |
We are giving away a nice Boeing tool bag with any $50.00 order until we run
out of bags.
Please go to our Home Page to link to the offer page.
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
Listers,
I've been reading this thread with interest. One note concerned me
because the person who wrote the note told of an incident where the
pilot obviously forgot to fly his airplane first. You and I know this is
bad and can get one killed. He managed to land without breaking
too much other than his pride, thank goodness.
I've forgotten to latch my canopy once. It was during my first few
flights in my RV. I guess I let something, or somebody, distract me
while I was prepping for the flight. Well, I was using the short runway
that day and didn't notice the canopy's being unlatched until I was
about to rotate. Since the runway was too short to stop, I took off
with the canopy open. I figured that was better than running off the
end of the runway and maybe tearing something up.
As I climbed out, I quickly noticed I could handle the canopy much
better if I slowed the airplane down. In fact, it would almost drop into
place. I tried to latch it, and couldn't. I tried several several times
and failed; so, I just decided to hold onto it until I could land. If I
knew it would drop in place at slower speeds, why did I decide to
hold it? I was afraid of breaking the canopy. I held on with one
hand to stabilize the canopy and flew the airplane at a slower speed
with the other. The landing was uneventful. I latched the canopy
and took off again.
All the while this incident was going on, I was flying the airplane.
That came first. I did notice the changes in the way the airplane
handled as I let the canopy up and down. It was fine. There was
some pitch changing; but, nothing was uncontrollable. Having flown
a Cheetah for over nine years, I knew an open canopy can change
things a little; so, the open canopy didn't really concern me too much.
I just didn't want to break the darned thing. I had already gotten a
small crack on the lower rear corner by not being careful during some
engine testing. I didn't want another one.
One thing I learned from this. There is a handle I grab every time I
close the canopy. It's the one in the middle of the bow. For some
reason, I forgot that the darned thing will turn. Had I thought about it,
I could have given the canopy a pull down and the handle a twist.
That would have held the canopy until I landed. A no brainer that I
simply forgot. Now, I twist the handle as I pull down the canopy. If
the canopy latch fails, or my brain fails, the handle will hold it until I
get down.
Oh, yeah. This was a slider vs tilt canopy thread. I like both. Both
have their virtues. I don't regret building mine with a tip up. The
airplane isn't too bad, either. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (22.1 on the tach)
AA-5A N26276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james small" <james(at)jsmall.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 02/10/00 |
Please unsubscribe me from the RV6-List Digest and subscribe me to RV-List
Digest
Regards
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
Richard White wrote:
>
>
> Thomas...
>
> There was a thread on the slider several months back. As I recall there was
> some question about being able to open the canopy in flight. Something
> about pressure from behind.
>
> Dick White
> RV-8QB systems
> Newport, OR
Most slider designs have a high pressure zone at the back side of the
canopy which won't allow the canopy to open more than a few inches in
flight. No experience with RV sliders but can confirm for T-18 & Globe
Swift with Nagle slider canopy.
Charlie
RV-4 tip-over (don't try it with these; don't ask how I know)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: slider vs tilt canopy |
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
This has been beat to death. In the archives, surely.
Plenty of evidence the canopies are flyable if left unlatched. The slider
is variable since it depends on whether you can get the rear pins to seat
properly in flight. Mine will not, so I have had to land with it unlatched.
how many times will be left to the conjecture of the reader. I have 850
landings and most have been with the canopy latched.
Whomsoever said fly the airplane speaks wisdom. Canopy and trim problems in
an RV-6 are fairly trivial challenges; however flying, much less landing,
with your vision and focus on the handle is an insurmountable challenge,
even for such a wizard as myself.
D L Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tilt vs. Sliding canopy |
| From: | Johnny Johnson <johnnypaj(at)juno.com> |
<<< RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hall"
<<< ... snip... is abilty to slide the canopy back on short final if I
ever have
<<< to make an unscheduled off-airport landing.
Amen! If I had a choice between tilt canopy and slider, I'd choose a
slider for that reason alone. A tilt canopy WILL trap you if the
airplane goes on it's back. A slider without a lock-back will do the
same, however... it'll slam shut during the rapid slowdown process unless
you've rigged up a lock to hold it back...
Take a look at films of Navy landings in the pre-ejection seat era--the
canopy is open, at the ship or on the beach.
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: prop me up! |
Hi Bill;
The RV4 is my choice too, and I have over 500 hours
in my -4, but I still take girls in the back above
guys any day. I left the footwells out and am planning
to retrofit soon....
Smokey
--- Bill Shook wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Bill Shook"
>
>
> > Bottom line, the rear seat in an RV4 was
> > designed for little people, ie..girls.
>
>
> Perhaps. But I'm a 5'10" 180lb man and I was VERY
> comfortable in the back
> of the RV-4. It did have the foot wells and I
> could see how without them
> it would be considerably less comfy......but I was
> comfortable enough to
> make the -4 my choice.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Lycoming O-360 Performance graph |
The Sea Level and Altitude Performance graph in the Lycoming Operator's
manual (pg. 3-51) has been shrunk down and re-copied to the point that it's
completely unreadable, and I'm wondering if anyone has an old manual or
something with a readable version. Lycoming tells me that's the only one
they have and the original, made over 30 years ago, is lost or unavailable.
I do have a nice *table* I received from them but would like to have a
readable version of the graph. Anyone?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs) (still painting)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DICK PITTENGER" <DICKPITTENGER(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV operators manual- POH |
Somewhere I saw a very nice Pilots Operating Handbook or Operators Manual
for an RV. It was loaded with statistics and methods for the 6.
Can someone tell me where to find this? My search of the archives did not
help.
Thanks,
Dick Pittenger RV6AQB on cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil...may void warranty |
From the way I read Lycoming's owners startup guide, a new engine's
warranty would be voided by the use of such additives. Has anyone asked
them point blank? I would think they would answer in a way to maximize
engine life and reputation.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV operators manual- POH |
>
>
>Somewhere I saw a very nice Pilots Operating Handbook or Operators Manual
>for an RV. It was loaded with statistics and methods for the 6.
>
>Can someone tell me where to find this? My search of the archives did not
>help.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dick Pittenger RV6AQB on cowling
Dick,
There are several POHs at http://www.aftershock.org/rv_builders_resources.htm
This link, and lots of other good ones, can be found on my RV Links
page, at http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
> Lastly, The rebuilt engines, such as the popular Bert of Canada,
> is $15,000 plus accesories...
> A new one from Van's is $20,000 I believe...the difference would be
> about $4,000? any comments..
>
> Thank you
>
> Bert Murillo
I am totally convinced AeroSport provides a outstanding quality engine. I
have one hanging on the front my of RV-4 and at least a half a dozen other
AeroSport engines are now installed in the RV projects of others here in the
Twin Cities.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Lycoming O-360 Performance graph |
Randall
Go out to your local airport and find a flight school that
has an airplane with an 0360/CS. The POH should have all
the graphs you want.
Tom
Flight School owner
>
> The Sea Level and Altitude Performance graph in the Lycoming Operator's
> manual (pg. 3-51) has been shrunk down and re-copied to the point that it's
> completely unreadable, and I'm wondering if anyone has an old manual or
> something with a readable version. Lycoming tells me that's the only one
> they have and the original, made over 30 years ago, is lost or unavailable.
> I do have a nice *table* I received from them but would like to have a
> readable version of the graph. Anyone?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs) (still painting)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
>***Bryan E. Files***
>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>Fat City Aircraft
>Palmer, Alaska
wrote:
>if it were me I will be rebuilding my own engine and putting the bucks in
>my pocket
Probably most professional mechanics getting dealer prices for components
would be wise to follow you advice on this, Bryan.
I've built over 200 engines for everything but aircraft and would still be
nervous if I built my own. Maybe not if I had someone like you looking
over my shoulder.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
In the January issue of AOPA pilot there is an article about flying in Baja,
and the author noted that they filled up at Loreto with 100 octane, and
there is no 100LL. What's the deal with that? Can we put "Mexican 100" in
our O-360s? The planes in the article were were certified types.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs) (still down for paint)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
I am planning to install Aeroflash nav/strobes, Duckworth landing lights,
and a Gretz heated pitot tube in the wings. Is there an accepted method
for attaching to the frame for the ground return. In other words, should I
do something like drilling and tapping a #4 or#6 screw to the spar and
attach the ground wires to that?
Vince
RV-8A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
Sorry Hal,
But they can't be had new for 1/2 that price. The manufacturer is WeMac, and using
my connections from work, I managed a group purchase at 38 or 39 bucks each.
So any body selling them has to mark them up from there.
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Feb 11, 2000 3:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents
>
>Chief sells them for 59.00.
Then they must be half that somewhere else!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello All,
I've been puttering around today with my right flap and have gotten to the
point where I need to fabricate the three FL-406 pieces. My question relates
to the FL406-A, which needs to be at an 88 degree angle. How does one squish
.125 angle together?
I thought I might be able to put it in the vise and squeeze it, but I thought
I'd see what others have done. Enquiring minds, etc.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
right wing in jig, right aileron done, right flap in progress, tanks going to
Evan J.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap question |
I took mine to the airport and found a large brake. You might be able to
bend it, but a brake is much more precise.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 3:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap question
>
> Hello All,
>
> I've been puttering around today with my right flap and have gotten to the
> point where I need to fabricate the three FL-406 pieces. My question
relates
> to the FL406-A, which needs to be at an 88 degree angle. How does one
squish
> .125 angle together?
>
> I thought I might be able to put it in the vise and squeeze it, but I
thought
> I'd see what others have done. Enquiring minds, etc.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> right wing in jig, right aileron done, right flap in progress, tanks going
to
> Evan J.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt vs. Sliding canopy |
In a message dated 02/12/2000 8:42:44 AM Pacific Standard Time,
johnnypaj(at)juno.com writes:
<< A tilt canopy WILL trap you if the
airplane goes on it's back. >>
I would not think that it would be that difficult to make modifications to
the design of the basic tip-up that preclude this from happening. It would
be a nice touch to be able to "shed" that canopy, be it a tip-up or a slider,
prior to touchdown during an off
airport landing. I plan a tip-up, with the ability to do this. Let's see,
"Canopy-Life,
Canopy-Life". Life sounds pretty good. If anybody has made modifications
like this,
feel free to squeak up.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator Pins |
>Quick question. About a voltage regulator. At first glance i thought i
>knew how to wire it up. But it has a couple of extra pins. With odd
>letters on them !!??! I can find some of them in the Tony B books but i
>can not find an exact replica of my voltage regulator. The pins are I,
>A+, S, F. Does anyone know what goes where. A couple are easy, but i
>lost the wire diagram for it. Please HELP....
Download Appendix Z of the book from our website at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/z8_0299.pdf
and check out Figure Z-2.
You connnect "A" and "S" together and wire through the
alternator field switch to the alternator field breaker
on the bus. "F" goes to the alternator field. Leave
"I" unconnected. Be sure case of regulator grounds to
airframe.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Question |
>I am planning to install Aeroflash nav/strobes, Duckworth landing lights,
>and a Gretz heated pitot tube in the wings. Is there an accepted method
>for attaching to the frame for the ground return. In other words, should I
>do something like drilling and tapping a #4 or#6 screw to the spar and
>attach the ground wires to that?
Would suggest #8 is smallest and #10 is better. Use PIDG terminal
with appropriate hole for the wire you're going to ground.
Buff area of contact between terminal and airframe with VERY
fine sandpaper. Fasten to the airframe and tighten a #8 screw
to 15 in-lb. The reason you want #8 or bigger is that the smaller
screws don't have enough "meat" in their cores to force a
gas tight joint between the airframe and the mating surface
of the terminal.
Ground failures are almost always traceable to inadequate
mate up force when the joint was fabricated. Moisture
gets into space between terminal and airframe . . . they
ARE dissimilar metals after all. Add the ravages of time
and electron flow and eventually the joint fails. Get
it tight enough the first time and it will still be good
the day your airplane gets scrapped.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap question |
>
>Hello All,
>
>I've been puttering around today with my right flap and have gotten to the
>point where I need to fabricate the three FL-406 pieces. My question relates
>to the FL406-A, which needs to be at an 88 degree angle. How does one squish
>.125 angle together?
>
>I thought I might be able to put it in the vise and squeeze it, but I thought
>I'd see what others have done. Enquiring minds, etc.
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
Ken,
I clamped one end in a vise, put a piece of 2 x 4 on the other end to
protect it, and beat it with a big hammer, measuring the angle
periodically. It worked reasonably well - I ended up with a very
slight curve in the end I was beating on, but it was close enough.
The angle is strongest in the radius, so it wants to bend just where
the radius stops, instead of at the vertex where you want it to bend.
I suspect this will be the case no matter how you bend it. Even the
angles in the fuselage kit that come prebent from Vans show this
effect.
Have fun,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Tank baffle: How To? |
I'm not sure how to procede with the tank baffle. The instructions say to
proseal and pop-rivet it on, but wait until the proseal cures to countersink
the skin and rivet the baffle flange to the skin. However, others seem to
have countersunk prior to prosealing and squeezed the flange/skin rivets at
the same time everything else is done. I'd rather do it the second way, but
have been bit before when I've strayed from the instructions. How did you
do it? Regrets? Lessons learned?
Thx,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks, end in site....
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Debi VonDane" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap question |
I put mine in the vice, placed 2x4 on it like Kevin, and hit it with a
5# sledge... It's only 2 degrees, so it doesn't take much
I just finished the left aileron, the right will be done tomorrow...
I didn't think it was any harder than the flaps, but bucking the top
row of rivets got me flustered a couple times... Hey, I'm on a roll!
I have at least 1 smiley on every piece I have made so far!
Later...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A N912V (res), Wings
http://vondane.tripod.com
Chat with me on-line: http://vondane.tripod.com/chat.htm
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>I've been puttering around today with my right flap and have gotten
to the
>point where I need to fabricate the three FL-406 pieces. My question
relates
>to the FL406-A, which needs to be at an 88 degree angle. How does
one squish
>.125 angle together?
>
>I thought I might be able to put it in the vise and squeeze it, but I
thought
>I'd see what others have done. Enquiring minds, etc.
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
complete rv6 kit for sale. fusealage, canopy done. Tail mounted. Fusealage on
landing gear. Wings done. tanks clecoed, ready for pro-seal.
10,000.00 or best
offer.
e-mail mcnu93945(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank baffle: How To? |
Larry, you can dimple the whole works with a die with a flat ground on the
side to allow getting in close to the radius. Your choice as to tank dies or
the regular ones. I used the tank dies on the first tank and found that the
rivets would not "center" and tipped in the larger dimple. Am going to use
the regular dies on the next tank. Andy Johnson, -8 wings, left completed.
I'm not sure how to procede with the tank baffle. The instructions say to
proseal and pop-rivet it on, but wait until the proseal cures to countersink
the skin and rivet the baffle flange to the skin. However, others seem to
have countersunk prior to prosealing and squeezed the flange/skin rivets at
the same time everything else is done. I'd rather do it the second way, but
have been bit before when I've strayed from the instructions. How did you
do it? Regrets? Lessons learned?
Thx,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks, end in site....
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)aol.com |
the plane is located in Newport, Vermont.No pictures available
yet.Workmanship is decent except on the canopy.Canopy is airworthybut very
rough. e-mail mcnu93945(at)aol.com
tel 603-598-4698 eastern time zone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
Probably most professional mechanics getting dealer prices for components
would be wise to follow you advice on this, Bryan.
I've built over 200 engines for everything but aircraft and would still be
nervous if I built my own. Maybe not if I had someone like you looking
over my shoulder.
hal
Hal,
I think that if you have built all those engines that you could build an
aircraft engine with little to know problem. If you ever try let me know how
easy it was for you.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
Green 100 is great stuff. I would rather run that than 100LL blue any
day.... I miss those days.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
In the January issue of AOPA pilot there is an article about flying in Baja,
and the author noted that they filled up at Loreto with 100 octane, and
there is no 100LL. What's the deal with that? Can we put "Mexican 100" in
our O-360s? The planes in the article were were certified types.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs) (still down for paint)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I'm not convinced the prop balance
constitutes a major change in our situation. Stay with me here...
Boyd said:
> Consult FAR 43, Appendix A..."major repair" includes " A repair to a
> component that if improperly done might affect weight, balance..."
> "Major alteration" includes alterations not listed in the propeller
> specs. that might appreciably affect weight, balance..."
Then Bill Noel pointed out that:
> The FAR's also say that FAR part 43 does not apply to experimental
> category.
And "Das Fed" came back with:
> What you say is partially true until you look in your Operating
Limitations
> issued with the Airworthiness Certificate. There are parts that
> apply(i.e., logbook entries). A major alteration is covered seperately by
> the Operating Limitations.
So we go look at the operating limitations, and they refer to part 21.93,
NOT part 43, for what constitutes a "major alteration". So we go read part
21.93(a), which says:
...changes in type design are classified as minor and
major. A "minor change" is one that has no appreciable effect on the
weight, balance, structural strength, reliability, operational
characteristics, or other characteristics affecting the airworthiness of
the product. All other changes are "major changes"...
So we're down to, as I see it, whether a change in the weight of the prop
has an "appreciable" effect on w/b, or whether reliability or operational
characteristics are effected. I suppose a smoother prop could be said to
affect the reliability and operational characteristics, but in that case
then changing the mag timing or idle mixture would also be "major
alterations". If we throw that out, then all we're left with is the FAA's
definition of "appreciable weight/balance change. And shoot, if adding or
removing a few ounces from the flywheel is what they're talking about, then
just about every change would constitute a "major alteration. Heck, I'm
right now painting my plane which will certainly have more of a w/b effect
than balancing the prop. Is that a major alteration? I've never heard of it
as such, but.... uh-oh, am I opening another can of worms here?
I know, I know, I'm just a-thinkin' too much...! Gotta do something while my
plane's down for paint!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Probynne" <robynne(at)harare.iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap question |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 2:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap question
>
I need to fabricate the three FL-406 pieces. My question s one squish
> .125 angle together?
>
> I thought I might be able to put it in the vise and squeeze it, but I
thought
> I'd see what others have done. Enquiring minds, etc.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> right wing in jig, right aileron done, right flap in progress, tanks going
to
> Evan J.
>
> Cut it on a milling machine !!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Probynne" <robynne(at)harare.iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap question |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 2:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap question
>
> Hello All,
>
> I've been puttering around today with my right flap and have gotten to the
> point where I need to fabricate the three FL-406 pieces. My question
relates
> to the FL406-A, which needs to be at an 88 degree angle. How does one
squish
> .125 angle together?
>
> I thought I might be able to put it in the vise and squeeze it, but I
thought
> I'd see what others have done. Enquiring minds, etc.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> right wing in jig, right aileron done, right flap in progress, tanks going
to
> Evan J.
>
> I cut mine on the milling machine !!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap question |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill & Debi VonDane" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com>
... Hey, I'm on a roll!
> I have at least 1 smiley on every piece I have made so far!
>
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>
Bill.....those aren't smiley's.....tell folks that it is a "signature" as
you are building a work of aluminum art.
Rob Baxter, Sarnia Ont.
RV-8 wings
'got more ribs on the table than a Chili's buffet'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: qb6 flap installation |
Based solely on you write up. If the wings are square etc and duplicates
than you are measuring the wrong area. Re- measure the airframe from the
centerline of the fuselage at the rear of the wing and remeasure the position
of the bolt holes for the spar to the centerline and to the outside of the
side panels. My feeling is that the problem is in the Fuselage, not the
wings.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Tank baffle: How To? |
I don't think this is an option for me. The rivet holes are too close to
the radius of the baffle flange - even if I ground the dimple die down.
(I've already discussed this with Van's. I'm closer than most, but still
acceptable)I guess that's why the plans say to CS this area instead of
dimple. Why were you compelled to dimple here?
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 9:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank baffle: How To?
>
>
> Larry, you can dimple the whole works with a die with a flat
> ground on the
> side to allow getting in close to the radius. Your choice as to
> tank dies or
> the regular ones. I used the tank dies on the first tank and
> found that the
> rivets would not "center" and tipped in the larger dimple. Am
> going to use
> the regular dies on the next tank. Andy Johnson, -8 wings, left completed.
>
>
> I'm not sure how to procede with the tank baffle. The instructions say to
> proseal and pop-rivet it on, but wait until the proseal cures to
> countersink
> the skin and rivet the baffle flange to the skin. However, others seem to
> have countersunk prior to prosealing and squeezed the flange/skin
> rivets at
> the same time everything else is done. I'd rather do it the
> second way, but
> have been bit before when I've strayed from the instructions. How did you
> do it? Regrets? Lessons learned?
>
> Thx,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 tanks, end in site....
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | speaking of tip-ups... |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
searched the archives, but couldn't find an answer to this one...how big
should the gap be between the front and rear portions of the tip-up canopy
to allow for thermal expansion?
i would hate to have a nice tight joint in the hanger, and then after
leaving the airplane in the hot sun for a few hours, find that the two
halves had melted together!
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
It warms my heart to see people researching the regs, you are right on the
statement about affecting the characteristics affecting airworthiness. That
is your tie in. The reason the mags etc.. you mentioned are NOT majors is
the manufacturer gives instructions in thier manuals on performing that
function. The manuals allow that function to be considered maintenance. Very
few airframe, engine or prop manuals contain information on ADDING weight to
the prop, flywheel or any engine part for purpose of dynamic balancing. The
catch is a major consists of ADDING anything to the item NOT approved
through some process. For us, a logbook entry and time restriction to prove
out is sufficient. Part 43 contains suggested GUIDELINES for us but has no
regulatory punch. The problem is the FAA cannot form consistant
interpritations of it's own FEDERAL law ( the FAR's are just a part of title
14 CFR which is federal law). A recent supreme court ruling was against the
FAA for changing it's interpritaion on law which is unconstitutional without
performing the same review process it would take to change the law itself
publish as a notice of proposed rulemaking and allow commet etc..). After
running into this same problem with my FSDO after following published
guidelines on approvals I was told federal guidelines are in the works. DO
NOT be afraid to question and request to see the requirement in writing from
a fed, it makes many of them quiet. If they are right, you now know why and
are informed.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Date: Sunday, February 13, 2000 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop balance
>
>Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I'm not convinced the prop balance
>constitutes a major change in our situation. Stay with me here...
>
>Boyd said:
>> Consult FAR 43, Appendix A..."major repair" includes " A repair to a
>> component that if improperly done might affect weight, balance..."
>> "Major alteration" includes alterations not listed in the propeller
>> specs. that might appreciably affect weight, balance..."
>
>Then Bill Noel pointed out that:
>> The FAR's also say that FAR part 43 does not apply to experimental
>> category.
>
>And "Das Fed" came back with:
>> What you say is partially true until you look in your Operating
>Limitations
>> issued with the Airworthiness Certificate. There are parts that
>> apply(i.e., logbook entries). A major alteration is covered seperately
by
>> the Operating Limitations.
>
>So we go look at the operating limitations, and they refer to part 21.93,
>NOT part 43, for what constitutes a "major alteration". So we go read part
>21.93(a), which says:
>
> ...changes in type design are classified as minor and
> major. A "minor change" is one that has no appreciable effect on the
> weight, balance, structural strength, reliability, operational
> characteristics, or other characteristics affecting the airworthiness of
> the product. All other changes are "major changes"...
>
>So we're down to, as I see it, whether a change in the weight of the prop
>has an "appreciable" effect on w/b, or whether reliability or operational
>characteristics are effected. I suppose a smoother prop could be said to
>affect the reliability and operational characteristics, but in that case
>then changing the mag timing or idle mixture would also be "major
>alterations". If we throw that out, then all we're left with is the FAA's
>definition of "appreciable weight/balance change. And shoot, if adding or
>removing a few ounces from the flywheel is what they're talking about, then
>just about every change would constitute a "major alteration. Heck, I'm
>right now painting my plane which will certainly have more of a w/b effect
>than balancing the prop. Is that a major alteration? I've never heard of it
>as such, but.... uh-oh, am I opening another can of worms here?
>
>I know, I know, I'm just a-thinkin' too much...! Gotta do something while
my
>plane's down for paint!
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where is a good place to buy P60-R2 primer |
Matt,
You won't find it at the regular (read home) SW store. Find out where the
automotive SW supply store is - they will have it.
You can buy the 2-part but the spray cans are much easier to deal with. You
can also buy the paint thinner they have ( 100 times better than anyt
Hardware store thinner.
We boought ours by the 12 can case with (2) gallon cans of thinner - worked
out good.
We have taken the hint from other members on the list and gone with "Sun
Fire" from SW. You don't need primer and we used it areas that get any wear.
The primer alone scrathes to easy, while the "Sun Fire" is really tough.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Engine Hung & on it's gear) (Looks great)
Niantic, CT
>From: "Matthew Greenway" <rvbiulder(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Where is a good place to buy P60-R2 primer
>Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 16:31:20 EST
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
>Where can I buy Sherwinn Williams Self etching primer: P60-R2??
>The Sherwinn Williams store down the street doesn't sell it.
>
>Both the spray can and also if it comes in two part.
>
>Thanks guys
>
>-Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for shielded wire |
George Orndorff sells MIL-SPEC wire of all types. Much less expensive, too.
I bought quite a bit of my wire from him.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 8:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Source for shielded wire
>
> Can someone recommend a source for two- and three-wire shielded cable. I
> hear that is what I need for wiring my headset and microphone jacks.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank baffle: How To? |
Hi Larry
How's yer rubbers working on the clecer pliers ;-) ??
I used tank dies on mine, found that there was ever such a slight gap
between the skin and the ribs, attacked the ribs with a countersink to
get them to lay down better.
I have seem croocked rivets in tanks which used normal dimples and tank
dimples and it appears to be more a function of how much proseal
squeezes out of the hole.
I countersunk the holes before prosealing the back baffle. I used the
spacers to prevent the back baffle from from bending as I was having no
luck whatsoever with the temp pull rivets. Got pictures somewhere of
these spacers on :
http://www.execpc.com/~gert
I am not sure ifthere is much room for dimples on the inboard top side
of the spar even if I could do dimples. I would have to look at my
finished one.
Gert
Happy proseal!!
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I don't think this is an option for me. The rivet holes are too close to
> the radius of the baffle flange - even if I ground the dimple die down.
> (I've already discussed this with Van's. I'm closer than most, but still
> acceptable)I guess that's why the plans say to CS this area instead of
> dimple. Why were you compelled to dimple here?
>
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
> > Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 9:20 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank baffle: How To?
> >
> >
> >
> > Larry, you can dimple the whole works with a die with a flat
> > ground on the
> > side to allow getting in close to the radius. Your choice as to
> > tank dies or
> > the regular ones. I used the tank dies on the first tank and
> > found that the
> > rivets would not "center" and tipped in the larger dimple. Am
> > going to use
> > the regular dies on the next tank. Andy Johnson, -8 wings, left completed.
> >
> >
> > I'm not sure how to procede with the tank baffle. The instructions say to
> > proseal and pop-rivet it on, but wait until the proseal cures to
> > countersink
> > the skin and rivet the baffle flange to the skin. However, others seem to
> > have countersunk prior to prosealing and squeezed the flange/skin
> > rivets at
> > the same time everything else is done. I'd rather do it the
> > second way, but
> > have been bit before when I've strayed from the instructions. How did you
> > do it? Regrets? Lessons learned?
> >
> > Thx,
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 tanks, end in site....
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | Engine "Time-ex" purchase advice |
Listers
I have been offered a choice of O-360-A4M engines and need some advice. The
engines have just reached 2000 Hrs TSN (12 years old), one a top overhaul
500 hours ago. The guy wants the price of the core charge (Approx
$6000-$8000). I actually know the aircraft/engines, they have been operated
in a flying school - a lot of cross country work, with no major problems.
All logs are available plus traceable history of all components.
Compressions are good and oil consumption well within limits, they have to
be replaced as they have reached their TBO for "Transport" certified
aircraft.
One of our club aircraft (similar engine) I ran with a concession to 2400
Hrs TSO until the local authority ruled that it had to be replaced, the
engine had no problems whatsoever.
Is this price justified?, I know that for UK Permit To Fly aircraft the
manufactures TBO's are not mandatory providing compression checks and oil
consumption monitoring is carried out.
Is it wise to simply put it in storage as is (I will inhibit the engine) and
fit and fly when ready, or overhaul it myself. I am an A & P - but on the
big birds.
As I live in the UAE any engine available in the USA would cost $500 to ship
plus 4% tax of the total!
What are listers experience in these matters?
Regards
RV6 Wings
David Roseblade
Persian Gulf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: qb6 flap installation |
Someone asked:
(snip)...I have the wings on the fuselage and am attempting to install
the >first (right) wing flap. I have attempted to trim the flap to fit
the
> fuselage, and find that the FL406B plate contacts the fuselage >significantly.
Jim in Zimbabwe wrote:
> > Suggest you remove the 470 rivets and subsistute with 426 wich will give you
alittle more clearance
My Question:
Would it be advisable to substitute 426's anyway to avoid this potential
problem? (riveting 606B to 406C tonight)- any word from Vans on this?
Also- any way to use solid rivets instead of pops for 406C to rib/skin?
Thanks for any advice and for the (timely) heads up!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A, flapping...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Intercom & radios |
I plan on using a basic intercom but would like to wire two com radios
through it.
Could I have both radios on at the same time without feedback or other
electrical problems? Is there a easier/less costly solution than an audio
panel?
Thanks,
Stan Blanton
RV-6
stanb(at)door.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine "Time-ex" purchase advice |
>
>Listers
>
>I have been offered a choice of O-360-A4M engines and need some advice. The
>engines have just reached 2000 Hrs TSN (12 years old), one a top overhaul
>500 hours ago. The guy wants the price of the core charge (Approx
>$6000-$8000). I actually know the aircraft/engines, they have been operated
>in a flying school - a lot of cross country work, with no major problems.
>All logs are available plus traceable history of all components.
>Compressions are good and oil consumption well within limits, they have to
>be replaced as they have reached their TBO for "Transport" certified
>aircraft.
>
>One of our club aircraft (similar engine) I ran with a concession to 2400
>Hrs TSO until the local authority ruled that it had to be replaced, the
>engine had no problems whatsoever.
>
>Is this price justified?, I know that for UK Permit To Fly aircraft the
>manufactures TBO's are not mandatory providing compression checks and oil
>consumption monitoring is carried out.
>
>Is it wise to simply put it in storage as is (I will inhibit the engine) and
>fit and fly when ready, or overhaul it myself. I am an A & P - but on the
>big birds.
>
>As I live in the UAE any engine available in the USA would cost $500 to ship
>plus 4% tax of the total!
>
>What are listers experience in these matters?
>
>Regards
>RV6 Wings
>David Roseblade
>Persian Gulf
>
A friend of mine bought an O-320 from a flight school in/near
Singapore. It was pretty much the same condition as what you're
describing; lots of time but nearly all on cross country's and
excellant care as well.
He put it into his RV-6, flew that aircraft for a year or so, damaged
the aircraft in an accident, and put the same into his new RV-6A and
kept flying. Haven't talked to him for a couple years now and he's
moved out of state, too. May still be flying it without overhaul, for
all I know.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lesliebwilliams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | QB6 Flap Question |
Gar,
I have built two RV-6As, one from a standard kit and one from a QB. I had
the same problem on both. For this reason, I would suggest builders do not
complete the flap assembly until the wings are fitted to the fuselage. For
a QB, there isn't a lot of choice as the flaps are already mostly assembled.
However, the alignment of the flap actuator pieces can be built to more
closely fit the actual curvature of the fuselage sides, which on my QB
resulted in the side piece being more perpendicular to the spar than angled
in toward the fuselage. If one is building from a standard kit, not
drilling the outboard flap rib or the hinge until the wings are fitted is
quite common for RV-4 builders, and I would suggest that RV-6(A) builders do
the same. This will allow one to adjust the position of the flap for
clearance from the fuselage side and achieve the 1/4" gap called out in the
plans without moving things around or drilling out and replacing hinges.
Following are possible fixes that I know of first hand.
1. Reverse the position of the spacers on the outboard hinge of the aileron
and change spacers of inboard aileron hinge to fit new position. This will
place the aileron approximately 3/32" further outboard. This will also
slightly change the aileron alignment with the chord line and the push-rod
hole shape. Adjust aileron push-rod length and hole shape as required.
2 Drill out the flap hinge on either the flap or wing, if it is already
drilled on. I did the wing section but I don't think it would matter.
Re-fit the flap to achieve the 1/4" gap from the aileron and the same fore
and aft position as before. Drill the new hinge section and reassemble.
If the rear portion of FL406B still contacts the side of fuselage even with
the above adjustment, then you may have to drill out the 3/4" modified angle
attaching the FL 406B to the flap skin and the FL406B plate from the rest of
the assembly. Remove some the bend in the FL406B plate (probably about 1/8"
max.) to clear the fuselage side. Re-fit, drill and countersink, a new
piece of angle to match existing flap skin holes. Reassemble.
Hope this helps.
Les Williams/RV-6A/Flight Test Period
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan&Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank baffle: How To? |
Larry, in my experience dimpling the rear baffle is begging for problems.
Often the holes are so close to the radius of the baffle that you will crack
or warp the baffle trying to dimple it. All of the tank skins I build get
machine counter sunk before installing the baffle. I paste a thin layer of
proseal on each baffle flange.....cover the enitire flange, not just at the
rivet line. The bigest mistake most people make as far as I can tell is on
the outside radius of the baffle. You want to build up a little corner or
proseal along this line. Essentially like squaring off the radius on the
inside of the tank. Be careful when doing this....too much is as bad as too
little. You dont want to fill the holes at the corners of ribs.(where the
ribs meet the baffle). I squeeze the rivets then go back to the pop rivets
after.....this is all one process and each tank will take a couple of hours.
For this reason I never try to do more than one at a time. As slow as
proseal sets, the working time where it is really creamy only last a couple
of hours at most. Hope this helps, feel free to call or e-mail me if you
like.Evan....(530) 945-9308
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 5:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tank baffle: How To?
>
> I don't think this is an option for me. The rivet holes are too close to
> the radius of the baffle flange - even if I ground the dimple die down.
> (I've already discussed this with Van's. I'm closer than most, but still
> acceptable)I guess that's why the plans say to CS this area instead of
> dimple. Why were you compelled to dimple here?
>
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
> > Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 9:20 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank baffle: How To?
> >
> >
> >
> > Larry, you can dimple the whole works with a die with a flat
> > ground on the
> > side to allow getting in close to the radius. Your choice as to
> > tank dies or
> > the regular ones. I used the tank dies on the first tank and
> > found that the
> > rivets would not "center" and tipped in the larger dimple. Am
> > going to use
> > the regular dies on the next tank. Andy Johnson, -8 wings, left
completed.
> >
> >
> > I'm not sure how to procede with the tank baffle. The instructions say
to
> > proseal and pop-rivet it on, but wait until the proseal cures to
> > countersink
> > the skin and rivet the baffle flange to the skin. However, others seem
to
> > have countersunk prior to prosealing and squeezed the flange/skin
> > rivets at
> > the same time everything else is done. I'd rather do it the
> > second way, but
> > have been bit before when I've strayed from the instructions. How did
you
> > do it? Regrets? Lessons learned?
> >
> > Thx,
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 tanks, end in site....
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom & radios |
>
>I plan on using a basic intercom but would like to wire two com radios
>through it.
>
>Could I have both radios on at the same time without feedback or other
>electrical problems? Is there a easier/less costly solution than an audio
>panel?
>
The RST intercom/audio panel is very inexpensive and works well. It is
cheaper than just about any factory built intercom alone and will handle
your two radios as well as auxillary audio inputs and any alarms or other
audio you may need. There was much discussion on this a few months ago.
Yes, you have to build the kit, but then you are doing that anyway with your
airplane.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV-6 KIT FOR SALE |
>
>
> Hey guys am I out of range on these prices? If so what is a reasonable
>price?
>
>> RV-6 Empenage and Wing kit for sale. Empenage kit is 95% complete. The
>wing
>> kit which has the Phlogiston spar has been uncrated but not touched
since.
>> Both kits are the pre-punched era. I am located in east central Alabama,
>120
>> miles southwest of Atlanta. I bought a Stearman. $900.00 for the empenage
>,
>> $4000.00 for the wing.
The right price is the one where someone will give that amount. It is
higher than I would be willing to pay, and apparently that applies to many
others.
I think most people would prefer to build their own kit and receive the
education and satisfaction that entails, as well as knowing exactly what
workmanship is in that part, unless there is quite a large price break.
You can find out what the right price point is by reducing the price until
someone takes you up on it. Please don't feel like you are being taken
advantage of. Partially completed kits do not generally bring what an
unstarted kit does.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Batt contactor and "spike catchers" |
>Bob, you forgot to tell him what the diode DOES with that inductive spike
;-)
>-Bill
The "spike" begins when the switch controlling
the contactor opens . . . if no catch diode is present,
the circuit will "ring" like an electrical bell.
An oscilloscope will let you watch the voltage wave
to and fro (+ and -) with each excursion becoming
smaller than the last.
The first swing is a very large negative pulse which
will drive a diode into conduction. At this time, the
same current that was used to charge the inductor
(approx 1A for our battery contactors and 4A for
our starter contactors) will flow in the diode.
This is why the diode doesn't need to be rated
for a very high current because the spike's
current cannot exceed the current that was flowing
in the inductor before the switch opened.
While a diode is conducting, its voltage drop is
1v or less so even on the "killer" starter contactor
with a current of 4A, disipation in the diode
is 4 watts for perhaps 20 milliseconds . . . won't
even warm it up. The lion's share of spike
energy is disipated harmlessly as heat in the
resistance of the contactor's coil.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
"
\"Randy Griffin\"" ,
"Jeff Jasinsky"
| Subject: | Canopy skirt solution |
Fellow 8ers,
I have now won the war with my canopy skirt. With some help from a local
guru I finally got it on straight. The procedure was to cut it in the back,
get the fwd holes drilled, pull the back up to get the rear sides tucked in,
then drill the back. Of course then the fitting/sanding process starts. I
then glassed the rear back together, filled the gap between the skirt and
the plexi that was in the back area, and thought I was done.
Last weekend I went to our local chapter fly-in breakfast and looked at four
other RV-8 skirts and how they fit in the rear around the track. Didn't like
any of them, and all builders who have flown report this is a great source
of wind getting into the cockpit. So I went back and did MORE fiberglassing
and sanding, but I am glad I did. I've added pics of the final result to my
canopy page at http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgCanopy.htm.
This should fit closely enough that I will only need a little UHMW tape on
the inside edge of the skirt and no foam or anything around the track. Check
it out and see what you think.
Many thanks to those who have helped with this especially problematic phase
(at least for me) including Jon Ross, Brian Denk, and Scott McDaniels.
I can hardly wait for the cowling (yea, right!)
Randy Lervold
#80500, about to shoot the interior
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing, VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine "Time-ex" purchase advice |
The price sounds very reasonable. Here first run 0-360's are hard to find
and a good core will bring $8,500. These engines have a deserved reputation
for long life and are a popular choice for the RV's. I purchased one for my
RV6 10 years ago with 2300hrs TT. When it went in for overhaul it turned
out to be in excellent shape and I am confident it could have run on longer
than that but then you may be faced with a more expensive overhaul.
Martin Sutter N868CM
----- Original Message -----
From: David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: RV-List: Engine "Time-ex" purchase advice
> I have been offered a choice of O-360-A4M engines and need some advice.
The
> engines have just reached 2000 Hrs TSN (12 years old), one a top overhaul
> 500 hours ago. The guy wants the price of the core charge (Approx
> $6000-$8000). I actually know the aircraft/engines, they have been
operated
> in a flying school - a lot of cross country work, with no major problems.
> All logs are available plus traceable history of all components.
> Compressions are good and oil consumption well within limits, they have to
> be replaced as they have reached their TBO for "Transport" certified
> aircraft.
>
> Regards
> RV6 Wings
> David Roseblade
> Persian Gulf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
RV Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
RV-4 Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
RV-6 Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
RV-8 Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glang007(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | De-gaussing, Roll bars and Compasses |
Dear List,
This is a note about a problem solved. It seems nobody else has had the
problem but I am so please with solving it that I felt like leaving a
note in the archives.
I had a problem with my compass correction card. It had things written
on it like,
"For 360 degrees steer 240 degrees" I could see that IFR renewals were
going to be a problem. Can't you just see the examiner being pleased
with a 110 degree difference between the DG and the compass.
The problem was clearly the roll-over bar in my RV6A with sliding
canopy. How it got turned into a big bar magnet I don't know but small
tool could be left parked on its underside.
An electronics qualified person (thanks Karl) suggested degaussing the
roll bar and loaned me a thing like a magic wand used for de-gaussing
electronic bits. I waved it at the roll bar and it reduced my deviation
to about 60 degrees. Still not good.
One day...... I noticed a man in a hanger testing the armature from a
generator (alternator... who knows). He was using a "Snap-On Tools"
armature tester but he called it a "growler" because of the impressive
50 hz hum it made (On your side of the big pond this would be a 60 hz
hum). After studying this thing for a while I determined that it was
putting out a rapidle alternating magnetic field like Karl's wand but on
steroids. It also had attractive open jaws that could be slid along a
roll bar.
After determining that the roll bar needed protecting with masking tape
(the growler also bites anything paramagnetic) I moved the growler along
the roll bar (after removing the compass....hemm hemm).
Problem solved ... just like that. My compass now reads withing 2
degrees of heading all round the rose.
So...... if'n your local magnetic field is stronger than the Earths may
I recommend (shameless plug) borrowing a "Snap-On" armature tester.
Sorry for the long post.
Cheers,
Leo Davies.
(26 hours tach time on VH-LDX)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell and Cowling wanted |
Does anyone want to sell a new Hartzell cs prop for the 180hp Lyc
(HC-C2YK)? I am also looking for a RV6 upper and lower cowling to fit the
cs prop. Must be the old fiberglass type, do not need the scoop.
Please respond off list to hmsutter(at)flash.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Help on wiring radio |
Listers,
I just got my RV-4 certified for IFR but I'm having problems with my
radio.
I've got a Terra TXN920 ( I know, but it was cheap and everything works
but the Nav Audio ) and I'm having trouble wiring up the nav audio. I
connected
Pin 13 of the nav connector to Pin 9 of the com connector and I don't get
any
audio. I took it to an avionics shop and I think all they wanted to do was
sell
me another radio.
If someone out there knows what I'm doing wrong ( other than having a
Terra ) please let me know. The vor, glideslope, loc, and com work
beautiful.
After putting enough antennas ( two coms, one loran, one marker, one
transponder and a vor/loc/glideslope ) on my airplane to make it look like a
porcupine, I ain't quitting now. Thanks
Jim Nolan
Warsaw In.
PS. If you've got a deal on a radio that works, I'm all ears.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: De-gaussing, Roll bars and Compasses |
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
This was my experience almost exactly, although not as much degauss required
it was a really big help.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
----------
>From: Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: De-gaussing, Roll bars and Compasses
>Date: Sun, Feb 13, 2000, 14:59
>
>
>Dear List,
>
>This is a note about a problem solved. It seems nobody else has had the
>problem but I am so please with solving it that I felt like leaving a
>note in the archives.
>
>I had a problem with my compass correction card. It had things written
>on it like,
>"For 360 degrees steer 240 degrees" I could see that IFR renewals were
>going to be a problem. Can't you just see the examiner being pleased
>with a 110 degree difference between the DG and the compass.
>
>The problem was clearly the roll-over bar in my RV6A with sliding
>canopy. How it got turned into a big bar magnet I don't know but small
>tool could be left parked on its underside.
>
>An electronics qualified person (thanks Karl) suggested degaussing the
>roll bar and loaned me a thing like a magic wand used for de-gaussing
>electronic bits. I waved it at the roll bar and it reduced my deviation
>to about 60 degrees. Still not good.
>
>One day...... I noticed a man in a hanger testing the armature from a
>generator (alternator... who knows). He was using a "Snap-On Tools"
>armature tester but he called it a "growler" because of the impressive
>50 hz hum it made (On your side of the big pond this would be a 60 hz
>hum). After studying this thing for a while I determined that it was
>putting out a rapidle alternating magnetic field like Karl's wand but on
>steroids. It also had attractive open jaws that could be slid along a
>roll bar.
>
>After determining that the roll bar needed protecting with masking tape
>(the growler also bites anything paramagnetic) I moved the growler along
>the roll bar (after removing the compass....hemm hemm).
>
>Problem solved ... just like that. My compass now reads withing 2
>degrees of heading all round the rose.
>
>So...... if'n your local magnetic field is stronger than the Earths may
>I recommend (shameless plug) borrowing a "Snap-On" armature tester.
>
>Sorry for the long post.
>
>
>Cheers,
>
>Leo Davies.
>
>(26 hours tach time on VH-LDX)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap question |
>From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Flap question
>Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 17:07:42 EST
>
>
>Hello All,
SNIP...
How does one squish .125 angle together?
SNIP...
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
Gang,
My very satisfactory method was to use my heaviest vise plus a short length
of 1/8" X 1" steel flat bar stock having a radius edge. I tightly clamped
the #406C (with one angle facing away and above the fixed vise jaw) together
with the flat bar, with the bar radius edge holding the angle in the corner
radius about a 1/16" above the fixed jaw. Applying the end grain of a short
two by four with a small sledge, I carefully drove the free flange downward,
removed the #406C a few times to check for the desired 88 degrees along its
length. If you should slightly over-bend the angle (don't ask me how I know
it can be done) it is rather easy to reverse by laying the bar on top of the
vise jaw and under the far edge of a more lightly clamped #406C. Carefully
hammer downward along the angle intersection. (Don't ever overdo this
reverse bending act! It work-hardens the part.)
Best Regards,
Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
RV-8 #80815 flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: What's a PIDG terminal |
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: Grant Corriveau
>
>> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>...
>> Would suggest #8 is smallest and #10 is better. Use PIDG terminal
>> with appropriate hole for the wire you're going to ground.
>> Buff area of contact between terminal and airframe with VERY
>
>... What is a PIDG terminal?
That's an acronym for PreInsulated Diamon Grip, an AMP,
Incorporated trade name. When I speak of PIDG style
terminals, I'm talking about the better grade of terminal
with the metal liners inside the plastic insulation
grips. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wiring Question |
>Thank you for your reply. Is it permissible to put more than one PIDG
>terminal under a grounding screw? Or perhaps several wires crimped in one
>terminal?
Yes and Yes . . . you can stack perhaps up to half dozen
terminals on a stud. No problems from an electrical perspective
but take care lest you stack multiple critical systems on the
same stud which becomes single point of failure for all.
You can fill up the wire grip volume of a terminal with more
than one strand of wire. For example, a red PIDG terminal
will accept two 22AWG wires. A blue PIDG will take three
22AWG wires or two 20AWG wires.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | N94BD emerg. landing |
Listers,
First off, I'm fine, the plane is fine, and so is my wife (passenger). On
our way to Laughlin for our anniversary, we had an unexpected engine problem
while passing the Grant's, NM airport. I must be living right because the
problem became evident with the airport in sight and plenty of altitude to
get there.
Symptoms: loss of rpm, could not get more than 1500 rpm at any throttle or
mixture setting. Response: carb heat, check mags, check fuel pressure, oil
pressure, temps, etc. All normal, but the EGT is at ZERO. NOT good. It was
as if the throttle cable had broken at half throttle and the engine was
still firing smoothly but evidently with LOTS of gas or something that would
drop the EGT so drastically.
"Deb, we have a problem" I told my wife. The rpm was beginning to drop, but
I had the airport made. Fly the plane! Fly the plane! That was constantly
playing in my mind. I trimmed for 85mph, announced the emergency on unicom
and down we came. Some radical slips were needed to get rid of excess
altitude down final. Then, the prop stopped for good. The sight of that
blade poised motionless I will never forget. A healthy flare and we were
down on runway 31. Either I'm pretty good at flying this machine or the
winds, God and the cosmos were all in alignment this day.
We had enough energy to coast off the runway and right onto the ramp. Upon
exiting, I saw gas pouring out of the cowling bottom. With the fine help of
the local A&P, we found the airbox saturated with fuel and the carb was
flooded. We pulled the carb apart and found nothing obvious. He suggested a
bit of junk got wedged in the little poppet valve and flooded the carb.
After a thorough inspection and reassembly, the engine fired up just fine as
if nothing had happened. Crap! Well, it runs, but WHY did it fail in the
first place?
I took it up and beat up the pattern for a while by myself and it ran
perfectly. The day was growing short, as was my energy so we headed back
home which only took 20 minutes...with landing fields and roads under us at
all times.
Any ideas as to what may have caused this? The carb is a Marvel-Schebler
MA4-5 on a Lycoming O-360A4J. The carb was installed on the engine to
modify it when Central Air Parts put an updraft sump on it so it would fit
the RV. It has the float and venturi AD's complied with. It has run
perfectly for over 40 hours.
The only thing I can think of to do is to send it off for overhaul.
Otherwise, I'm at a loss. The finger screen showed no contamination. There
was some old, white goo on the threads of the screen nut, however. We
scraped all traces of this stuff off.
I'm going to have a beer...or twelve.
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
I have about a dozen left over from a previous project order and will sell
them for $20.00 each if anyone is interested ...
Greg Schmidt GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM
Phoenix DVT
RV6S N250GS
Finishing wiring and Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
n a message dated 2/12/00 9:02:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gfcorriv(at)total.net writes:
> ... What is a PIDG terminal?
>
> Thanks,
> Grant Corriveau
Hi Grant PIDG stands for Pre-insulated Diamond Grip. It's an AMP term for a
double crimp terminal that has a diamond pattern inside the barrel where it
crimps onto the bare strands of wire. We carry the AMP and Molex ( Molex uses
ovals and dots instead of diamonds and is of equal quality to AMP). If you
are interested in seeing why double crimps are the best to use click here How to-Why Not.
This pages shows the make up of a double crimp connector and how to crimp
them.
Best regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
Best regards,
John @AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jnchodge(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle quad Knobs |
Does anyone know where I can get a set of knobs(throttle, prop, mix) like
the ones on Van's quadrants? thanks Jack jnchodge(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing |
Brian
Did you fill your fuel tanks, engage the electric fuel pump and pump all/most
of the fuel out of each tank and into a container BEFORE flying the plane??
Often, debris in the tank or a skeived piece of rubber from a flexible fuel line
will work it's way down the fuel system and lodge in between the float needle
and seat.
This may well be a one time incident. If you have not done as suggested above,
I would suggest you do it to each tank before flying again.
> Any ideas as to what may have caused this?
If nothing was found amiss inside the carb, I think you'd be wasting your
money. Debris in the fuel is much more likely.
> It has run perfectly for over 40 hours. The only thing I can think of to do
> is to send it off for overhaul.
> Otherwise,
Err on the side of caution, drink the 12!! :-)
Charlie Kuss
> I'm going to have a beer...or twelve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: De-gaussing, Roll bars and Compasses |
Radio Shack sells a bulk tape eraser that will do the degaussing!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A QB Kit For Sale |
RV-6A QB Kit For Sale
The kit was bought in 1998 with the following
options :
1. Sliding Canopy.
2. Elevator Electric Trim Kit.
3. Rudder bottom without provision for tail light.
4. Leading Edge Landing Light kit both wings.
5. Electric Flap option.
6. Firewall Recess Kit.
7. Manual Aileron Trim Kit.
8.Fresh Air Vent System.
9. External Step kit both sides.
10. Static Air Kit.
11. Dual Brake Kit.
The Empennage is done except for the fiberglass work..
The floor boards, left arm rest and window sill have been installed.
The rear top cover has been positioned and drilled.
The kit does not include the finishing kit.
I am selling this kit because I bought another kit that was 90% finished.
Asking $15,000.00. Please respond off list.
My phone number is (925) 829-4680 and my E-mail
address is
pjbodie(at)home.com
The kit is located in Dublin, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike1769(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: De-gaussing, Roll bars and Compasses |
Thanks Leo,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
Wouldn't mind taking a look at them. I have the black ones now.
Larry Olson
DVT
>
>I have about a dozen left over from a previous project order and will sell
>them for $20.00 each if anyone is interested ...
>
>
>Greg Schmidt GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM
>Phoenix DVT
>RV6S N250GS
>Finishing wiring and Canopy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Save me some eyeball vents |
Greg. set aside two of them for me if you would. I'll come by the airport
this weekend and pick them up.
Thanks..
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents
>
> I have about a dozen left over from a previous project order and will sell
> them for $20.00 each if anyone is interested ...
>
>
> Greg Schmidt GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM
> Phoenix DVT
> RV6S N250GS
> Finishing wiring and Canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
I'll take two.
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> GRGSCHMIDT(at)aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 6:31 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents
>
>
>
> I have about a dozen left over from a previous project order and
> will sell
> them for $20.00 each if anyone is interested ...
>
>
> Greg Schmidt GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM
> Phoenix DVT
> RV6S N250GS
> Finishing wiring and Canopy
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing |
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> First off, I'm fine, the plane is fine, and so is my
> wife (passenger). On
> our way to Laughlin for our anniversary, we had an
> unexpected engine problem
> while passing the Grant's, NM airport. I must be
> living right because the
> problem became evident with the airport in sight and
> plenty of altitude to
> get there.
>
> Symptoms: loss of rpm, could not get more than 1500
> rpm at any throttle or
> mixture setting. Response: carb heat, check mags,
> check fuel pressure, oil
> pressure, temps, etc. All normal, but the EGT is at
> ZERO. NOT good. It was
> as if the throttle cable had broken at half throttle
> and the engine was
> still firing smoothly but evidently with LOTS of gas
> or something that would
> drop the EGT so drastically.
>
> "Deb, we have a problem" I told my wife. The rpm
> was beginning to drop, but
> I had the airport made. Fly the plane! Fly the
> plane! That was constantly
> playing in my mind. I trimmed for 85mph, announced
> the emergency on unicom
> and down we came. Some radical slips were needed to
> get rid of excess
> altitude down final. Then, the prop stopped for
> good. The sight of that
> blade poised motionless I will never forget. A
> healthy flare and we were
> down on runway 31. Either I'm pretty good at flying
> this machine or the
> winds, God and the cosmos were all in alignment this
> day.
Your training paid off. FLY the Airplane. You did
GREAT!.
> We had enough energy to coast off the runway and
> right onto the ramp. Upon
> exiting, I saw gas pouring out of the cowling
> bottom. With the fine help of
> the local A&P, we found the airbox saturated with
> fuel and the carb was
> flooded. We pulled the carb apart and found nothing
> obvious. He suggested a
> bit of junk got wedged in the little poppet valve
> and flooded the carb.
> After a thorough inspection and reassembly, the
> engine fired up just fine as
> if nothing had happened. Crap! Well, it runs, but
> WHY did it fail in the
> first place?
Did you flush the tank out before you flew the
airplane. It is possible that you picked up junk that
got into the tank and caught in the needle valve.
A new RV-6A (first flight 2 or 3 weeks ago) at Cable
airport did a lot of running on the ground. He found
pieces of green leaves in the carb screen. (At least
it looked like a leaf to me.)
>
>
> Any ideas as to what may have caused this? The carb
> is a Marvel-Schebler
> MA4-5 on a Lycoming O-360A4J. The carb was
> installed on the engine to
> modify it when Central Air Parts put an updraft sump
> on it so it would fit
> the RV. It has the float and venturi AD's complied
> with. It has run
> perfectly for over 40 hours.
>
> The only thing I can think of to do is to send it
> off for overhaul.
> Otherwise, I'm at a loss. The finger screen showed
> no contamination. There
> was some old, white goo on the threads of the screen
> nut, however. We
> scraped all traces of this stuff off.
>
> I'm going to have a beer...or twelve.
Better to error on the safe side. Drink the twelve.
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | Engine "Time-ex" purchase advice |
David,
A 1st run engine at 2000 hrs. is worth the money. I think that $8000.00 is
a little high but $6000.00 to $7000.00 range is not to bad. Also see what
he would take in cash. When I try to buy a used aircraft part I think of
what price I want to pay for it and put that money in a shoe box, then I
take it down to the seller and say this is how much I have and am willing to
spend and then I open the shoe box and 99.9% of the time when people see
that much cash something changes inside them... they usually say OKO I'll
take it.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Roseblade
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 7:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine "Time-ex" purchase advice
Listers
I have been offered a choice of O-360-A4M engines and need some advice. The
engines have just reached 2000 Hrs TSN (12 years old), one a top overhaul
500 hours ago. The guy wants the price of the core charge (Approx
$6000-$8000). I actually know the aircraft/engines, they have been operated
in a flying school - a lot of cross country work, with no major problems.
All logs are available plus traceable history of all components.
Compressions are good and oil consumption well within limits, they have to
be replaced as they have reached their TBO for "Transport" certified
aircraft.
One of our club aircraft (similar engine) I ran with a concession to 2400
Hrs TSO until the local authority ruled that it had to be replaced, the
engine had no problems whatsoever.
Is this price justified?, I know that for UK Permit To Fly aircraft the
manufactures TBO's are not mandatory providing compression checks and oil
consumption monitoring is carried out.
Is it wise to simply put it in storage as is (I will inhibit the engine) and
fit and fly when ready, or overhaul it myself. I am an A & P - but on the
big birds.
As I live in the UAE any engine available in the USA would cost $500 to ship
plus 4% tax of the total!
What are listers experience in these matters?
Regards
RV6 Wings
David Roseblade
Persian Gulf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-6 Rear Baffle Question |
My baffle kit fits pretty well... EXCEPT... The top left dynofocal mount
pushes the back left baffle way out of place. Probably 1/2 inch or so. The
plans mention a 1/8" finger spacer between the baffle and the crankcase, but
this isn't gonna cut it. The only solution I see is to make a cut out that
goes around the dynofocal doughnut, so the baffle can fit as planned. If I
cut it for a tight fit, it'll chafe the dynofocal mount. If I cut it for a
loose fit, I'll have a big air leak.
This is on an 0-320D2J (fuel pump added).
Anyone else seen this? Want to share a good solution?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Blake" <danblake(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in the Left or Right Hand |
IMNSHO, a well rounded pilot should not feel uncomfortable flying with
either hand. If a change in aircraft requires one to fly from an
unfamiliar side, should that not be a welcome challenge of being a complete
pilot? I can think of many situations when you might find yourself flying
from the side less traveled by. Why get hung up on right or left? I'd like
to feel that I was competent at both. Some will undoughtedly say that this
is a macho way of looking at the issue, but I don't want to limit my joy of
aviation by choosing a side.
I'm building an -8, and although 90% of my time is flying a right-handed
throttle, I look forward to the day that I am comfortable flying with my
right hand. It will probably take all of about 5 minutes.
Come to think of it, when flying a friends -4 the other day, my only memory
of the controls was how light and balanced they were, not that it was my
right hand on the stick.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)corecom.net> |
| Subject: | N94BD emerg. landing |
Brian,
Did the idle mixture screw fall out? Did the economizer valve get stuck? Do
you have a 1 piece ventrui and is that in tact? These are the only things I
can think of right now. Let me know what you find.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 2:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: N94BD emerg. landing
Listers,
First off, I'm fine, the plane is fine, and so is my wife (passenger). On
our way to Laughlin for our anniversary, we had an unexpected engine problem
while passing the Grant's, NM airport. I must be living right because the
problem became evident with the airport in sight and plenty of altitude to
get there.
Symptoms: loss of rpm, could not get more than 1500 rpm at any throttle or
mixture setting. Response: carb heat, check mags, check fuel pressure, oil
pressure, temps, etc. All normal, but the EGT is at ZERO. NOT good. It was
as if the throttle cable had broken at half throttle and the engine was
still firing smoothly but evidently with LOTS of gas or something that would
drop the EGT so drastically.
"Deb, we have a problem" I told my wife. The rpm was beginning to drop, but
I had the airport made. Fly the plane! Fly the plane! That was constantly
playing in my mind. I trimmed for 85mph, announced the emergency on unicom
and down we came. Some radical slips were needed to get rid of excess
altitude down final. Then, the prop stopped for good. The sight of that
blade poised motionless I will never forget. A healthy flare and we were
down on runway 31. Either I'm pretty good at flying this machine or the
winds, God and the cosmos were all in alignment this day.
We had enough energy to coast off the runway and right onto the ramp. Upon
exiting, I saw gas pouring out of the cowling bottom. With the fine help of
the local A&P, we found the airbox saturated with fuel and the carb was
flooded. We pulled the carb apart and found nothing obvious. He suggested a
bit of junk got wedged in the little poppet valve and flooded the carb.
After a thorough inspection and reassembly, the engine fired up just fine as
if nothing had happened. Crap! Well, it runs, but WHY did it fail in the
first place?
I took it up and beat up the pattern for a while by myself and it ran
perfectly. The day was growing short, as was my energy so we headed back
home which only took 20 minutes...with landing fields and roads under us at
all times.
Any ideas as to what may have caused this? The carb is a Marvel-Schebler
MA4-5 on a Lycoming O-360A4J. The carb was installed on the engine to
modify it when Central Air Parts put an updraft sump on it so it would fit
the RV. It has the float and venturi AD's complied with. It has run
perfectly for over 40 hours.
The only thing I can think of to do is to send it off for overhaul.
Otherwise, I'm at a loss. The finger screen showed no contamination. There
was some old, white goo on the threads of the screen nut, however. We
scraped all traces of this stuff off.
I'm going to have a beer...or twelve.
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of tip-ups... |
Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
>
> listers,
>
> searched the archives, but couldn't find an answer to this one...how big
> should the gap be between the front and rear portions of the tip-up canopy
> to allow for thermal expansion?
1/4", according to either the manual, plans, or WC's notes.
> i would hate to have a nice tight joint in the hanger, and then after
> leaving the airplane in the hot sun for a few hours, find that the two
> halves had melted together!
Be even more embarrassing to find it when you arrive somewhere after a
flight in the hot sun!
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> (snip)
> Symptoms: loss of rpm, could not get more than 1500 rpm at any throttle or
> mixture setting. Response: carb heat, check mags, check fuel pressure, oil
> pressure, temps, etc. All normal, but the EGT is at ZERO. NOT good. It was
> as if the throttle cable had broken at half throttle and the engine was
> still firing smoothly but evidently with LOTS of gas or something that would
> drop the EGT so drastically.
I've not done much flying behind carburated engines in several years, but I
wonder if this is the situation that was discussed a while back WRT using the
primer to keep fuel going to the engine. Brian, I don't recall what you did
for a primer (or even if you did) although I have been following your progress
with interest. If you do have a primer installed, did you try using it?
Any comments from more knowledgable/experienced listers?
>
> (snip)
> I'm going to have a beer...or twelve.
Good plan. And thanks for the reports.
James Freeman
RV-8QB fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
Matt....
Tell them how to "snip"
Dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
I have been very happy with the latch system that has evolved with my
tilt-up -6A. I have electric flaps and lowered the seat pans 1 1/2" for
head clearance. This caused me to have to modify the plans since the
torque tube would have rubbed on the seat backs. I installed an arm rest
between the seats. The cushion is attached to a lever which replaces Van's
sidewall mounted lever assembly and operates a similar torque tube and
locks with a over-center type cam action. When I lift the cushion about 45
degrees it releases the canopy. With this cushion pointing up it is pretty
difficult to forget to batten the hatches before take-off. Now I just need
to figure out how to close the oil door from inside! (yes, it's happened
more than once- hey, even Van himself told me he has forgotten to switch
tanks and has run one dry just as he set it on the ground).
As I figure out my new digital camera I can send photos to anyone who is
interested. The arm rest makes it much easier getting in and out. Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rear Baffle Question |
Kyle Boatright said:
> My baffle kit fits pretty well... EXCEPT... The top left dynofocal
> mount pushes the back left baffle way out of place.
[snip]
> If I cut it for a tight fit, it'll chafe the dynofocal mount. If
> I cut it for a loose fit, I'll have a big air leak.
Mine is an O-360 but it doesn't sound too much different... I had to bend it
some and trim around the mount then just fill in the gap with RTV. In fact
its common practice to seal around the whole baffle with RTV. Or are you
saying that your gap is too big for that....?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Re: De-gaussing, Roll bars and Compasses |
DFaile(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Radio Shack sells a bulk tape eraser that will do the degaussing!
>
Maybe,
I did mention that I had made a previous attempt with an "electronics
grade" degausser without success. To realign the atoms in that big steel
roll bar you need something with serious field.
Many bulk tape erasers are designed to generate field inside a box
rather than externally. Without seeing the beast I wouldn't know .....
does it have a 15 amp 240 volt power line?
LD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Another Flap question |
OK, Uncle!
How in the world do you find a bucking bar that will fit inside the flap
to buck the ribs to the top skin? Even if I can pull the skin away far
enough to get in there (without creasing the skin) I"m still not sure
the bars will fit. What have others done?
Thanks,
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO, RV-6
Soaking may aching hands!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Flap question |
Just did that this weekend. From a suggestion I saw here on the list, I
used the side of one of the yokes for my Avery hand squeezer. It is narrow
enough to fit in that space and worked fine. Marred the black finish on
the yoke a little, but just in one spot and the yoke still works fine in the
squeezer.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, finishing up wing kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 11:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Another Flap question
>
> OK, Uncle!
>
> How in the world do you find a bucking bar that will fit inside the flap
> to buck the ribs to the top skin? Even if I can pull the skin away far
> enough to get in there (without creasing the skin) I"m still not sure
> the bars will fit. What have others done?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith Hughes
> Parker, CO, RV-6
> Soaking may aching hands!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing |
Do you have inline filters? Do you have a gascolator?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
Hey Greg,
I'll take two, just let me know check or money order.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Flap question |
Keith:
Make yourself a bucking bar about 1" X 2" X 5/8". The critical measurement
is the 5/8" which is the width of the flange you're dealing with here. Will
work fine.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 N17PH @ INT
RV-6 N44PH (reserved) Wing Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, February 14, 2000 2:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Another Flap question
>
>OK, Uncle!
>
>How in the world do you find a bucking bar that will fit inside the flap
>to buck the ribs to the top skin? Even if I can pull the skin away far
>enough to get in there (without creasing the skin) I"m still not sure
>the bars will fit. What have others done?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Keith Hughes
>Parker, CO, RV-6
>Soaking may aching hands!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
Sam, I am just about ready to start thinking about upholstery for my 4. Can
you please send me prices and perhaps a picture. Thanks, Ray Grenier, 22
Dublin Ave, Nashua, NH 03063
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tilt up/slider |
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Now I just need
>to figure out how to close the oil door from inside! (yes, it's happened
I can do this from the inside with my slider, by standing on the co pilot
seat..... but only after aborting, turning off the runway, etc.
The aerodynamics is tricky. The door opens at rotation. the canopy doesn't
start blowing the gale on the back of the neck until about a hundred miles
per.
Anon......
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: De-gaussing, Roll bars and Compasses |
One simple, inexpensive way to check for unknown magnetic fields can be
accomplished quite easily. A steel paper clip can be bent into an "L" shape
and taped to a thread. The single wire is taped to the thread with a small
piece of scotch tape. The thread can be held up and the paper clip moved near
any steel component in the cockpit, such as the canopy frame. The paper clip
will point to any magnetized object. Be cautious as this must be done in a
hangar with no drafts, and be certain that you do not magnetize the paper
clip by testing the process (practicing) near any magnet.
Hope this helps,
Jon Ross 80094
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rear Baffle Question |
>
>Kyle,
>My baffle kit fits pretty well... EXCEPT... The top left dynofocal mount
>pushes the back left baffle way out of place. Probably 1/2 inch or so.
You are lucky it fits so well! Cut and grind baffle parts filling gaps
with RTV or fabric.
The goal is to make the air go thru the fins. I think baffles are supposed
to be ugly! :-)
It really fit that well, huh?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: speaking of tip-ups... |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
actually, i am looking for the proper spacing between the two sections of
plexiglass. the manual says "a close, even fit" and WC says "a small gap,
uniform in width." drawing 51 shows the gap, but does not give a dimension.
measured from the drawing, it looks like 1/8". i am concerned that that may
not be enough, but of course i don't want to make it any bigger than it has
to be.
has anyone had problems with an 1/8" gap? anyone recommend using less? more?
i think the 1/4" referred to is the gap between the canopy bow and the cabin
frame.
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
>> searched the archives, but couldn't find an answer to this one...how big
>> should the gap be between the front and rear portions of the tip-up canopy
>> to allow for thermal expansion?
>
>1/4", according to either the manual, plans, or WC's notes.
>
>> i would hate to have a nice tight joint in the hanger, and then after
>> leaving the airplane in the hot sun for a few hours, find that the two
>> halves had melted together!
>
>Be even more embarrassing to find it when you arrive somewhere after a
>flight in the hot sun!
>
>Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom and radios |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
stan,
you might consider ps engineering's new product. it is very small (will fit
in 2.25" hole), will switch 2 coms and 2 navs, and of course has a nice
intercomm with music input (not stereo though) and automatic muting. i think
its the 4000 model, around $700 ??
if you already have the intercomm, or want to use a different one, talk to
bill at van's. he can set you up with what he calls "the poor man's audio
panel" for $10 (it's just a switch! but he can tell you how to wire it...)
i'm not sure what capabilities you will have with that set up.
good luck,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
>I plan on using a basic intercom but would like to wire two com radios
>through it.
>
>Could I have both radios on at the same time without feedback or other
>electrical problems? Is there a easier/less costly solution than an audio
>panel?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: qb6 flap installation |
On my QB6, the right wing was swept back. So, in the spirit of "make it
fit", I trimmed a bit off the rear spar bars on the right
side. ***BUMMER*** DON'T DO THIS! There is a tiny note on the plans but
I think this needs a big red warning in the front of the manual. I think
it may be the worst mistake one can make building the RV6a . Recovery from
this error is very difficult.
I suspect all these kits have this problem and bet most are either:
-- Rigged badly with a swept wing
-- No longer capable of the designed ultimate strength.
However, the rear spar connection may be much stronger than necessary.
I made my flap brackets up to fit the smaller space. First, use flush
rivets. Then, if necessary, mess with the flap. I see others have given
suggestions I wish I had seen a few months ago.
The way I checked for sweep:
1. Hang a plumb bob over the leading edge at each wing root and
each wing tip (tip of aluminum, not fiberglass). Four plumb bobs.
2. Run a string between two posts, I used chairs but not the
rocking kind.
3. The string passes in front of the plumb bob strings and should
be the same distance from each one.
hal
>I have the wings on the fuselage and am attempting to install the first
>(right) wing flap. I have attempted to trim the flap to fit the fuselage,
>and find that the FL406B plate contacts the fuselage significantly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Tip Up Gap (Long) (Was Speaking of Tip Ups) |
Making that gap uniform is very tough, because once you cut the canopy in
two, the back end of it shifts, and pressure is released. The back half
will now have further cutting to make it sit properly. Mine came out
uneven, and too wide in some places, so I trimmed it back even further to
allow a smooth edge all the way around, added a fiberglass targa strip on
the front piece. This turned out very nice, and was not that much work.
Not to mention, I have a tight seal where water or air can not enter.
The procedure for this was as follows:
1.Mask off the front portion of the canopy up to approximately 2 inches from
the trailing edge.
2. Rough up the exposed plexi with 80 grit.
3. TIGHTLY cover the rear window with wax paper, with some excess going
forward, and shut inside the cockpit. Press the wax paper into the groove
on the canopy roll bar. It is important that the paper is completely flat
and stuck tightly to the rear window.
4. Shut the canopy, using the latches as if you were shutting it to fly.
5. Lay up 3 layers of fiberglass up to the edge of the tape. The layers
should be covering the split between the two pieces of plexi. Make sure
that it is pressed down on the wax paper, too. Cover with Peel Ply.
6. When cured, fill and sand with a thin filler like Evercoat, and sand
down to the level of the tape. Sand the back edge of your new strip
straight with a long sanding block to make sure it is straight.
Hope this helps for those of you who didn't get a perfect gap!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stick in the Left or Right Hand/Cross Hand |
Quick comment on "cross hand operation". Right or left throttle is one point
of consideration but be sure your final setup contains no "cross hand"
operations. e.g. turning on landing light with one hand then swaping hands (on
stick) to reach flap switch then swaping hands (on stick) to reach & turn fuel
pump on.....this is more important on a RV-3, -8 or -4 but nontheless is
important when designing your airplane. The above examples may be lame but the
concept of operational layout needs some thought....
danblake(at)worldnet.att.net on 02/13/2000 11:46:29 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stick in the Left or Right Hand
IMNSHO, a well rounded pilot should not feel uncomfortable flying with
either hand. If a change in aircraft requires one to fly from an
unfamiliar side, should that not be a welcome challenge of being a complete
pilot? I can think of many situations when you might find yourself flying
from the side less traveled by. Why get hung up on right or left? I'd like
to feel that I was competent at both. Some will undoughtedly say that this
is a macho way of looking at the issue, but I don't want to limit my joy of
aviation by choosing a side.
I'm building an -8, and although 90% of my time is flying a right-handed
throttle, I look forward to the day that I am comfortable flying with my
right hand. It will probably take all of about 5 minutes.
Come to think of it, when flying a friends -4 the other day, my only memory
of the controls was how light and balanced they were, not that it was my
right hand on the stick.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in the Left or Right Hand/Cross Hand |
>Quick comment on "cross hand operation". Right or left throttle is one
point
>of consideration but be sure your final setup contains no "cross hand"
>operations. e.g. turning on landing light with one hand then swaping
hands (on
>stick) to reach flap switch then swaping hands (on stick) to reach & turn
fuel
>pump on.....
(SNIP)
Most important!
Have a Great Day!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6, Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen D. Metzger" <smetzger(at)ma.ultranet.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Canopy Blasphemy |
I am a long way from any hint of canopy work, but the recent email threads
got me wondering about the RV8 sliding canopy.
Has anyone ever considered leaving it intact with a tilt-to-the-side
arrangement like the RV4? Seems to me that it would simplify the cutting
and mounting tasks that have generated so many questions on this list.
The real benefit would be getting rid of that dividing bar between front
windshield and slider. The visibility would be (even more) phenomenal!
Nothing could compare except an F16, and of course an RV4. The price would
be 10 knots of ground-appeal and taxi ventilation.
Steve Metzger
RV8A
Still on the tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Flap question |
Thanks Pat and all who answered.
I found one bar that had a similar dimensions, specifically the 5/8". It is
actually a little more, but it fits. I had to polish a side or two, but I am
now finished with the left flap. Looks good, but I do not agree that this is
the easiest surface to build!!
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
RV-6 Wings
Fletcher Hatch wrote:
>
> Keith:
>
> Make yourself a bucking bar about 1" X 2" X 5/8". The critical measurement
> is the 5/8" which is the width of the flange you're dealing with here. Will
> work fine.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4 N17PH @ INT
> RV-6 N44PH (reserved) Wing Kit
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, February 14, 2000 2:21 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Another Flap question
>
> >
> >OK, Uncle!
> >
> >How in the world do you find a bucking bar that will fit inside the flap
> >to buck the ribs to the top skin? Even if I can pull the skin away far
> >enough to get in there (without creasing the skin) I"m still not sure
> >the bars will fit. What have others done?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Keith Hughes
> >Parker, CO, RV-6
> >Soaking may aching hands!
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: qb6 flap installation |
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, February 14, 2000 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: qb6 flap installation
>
>
>The way I checked for sweep:
>
> 1. Hang a plumb bob over the leading edge at each wing root and
>each wing tip (tip of aluminum, not fiberglass). Four plumb bobs.
>
> 2. Run a string between two posts, I used chairs but not the
>rocking kind.
>
> 3. The string passes in front of the plumb bob strings and should
>be the same distance from each one.
>
>
>hal
This is a good way to ensure that the wings are collinear -- in a straight
line. However, you need to accurately measure from a point on the tips to
the center at the tail to get the wing LE's perpendicular to the centerline.
Be sure to measure out from the spar ends because the wings are not of equal
lengths. I was fortunate to have help from two very experienced RV builders
who have done this a dozen times. The iterative steps to achieve collinear,
perpendicular and proper-incidence alignment were not intuitively obvious to
me!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy / Side Tilt |
Aside from the weight of the completed tilt over structure ( for ease of
operating it) & the roll bar clearance I too would be interested on thoughts on
a tilt RV-8. The HR-II has a raised sheetmetal turtle deck with a swing over
canopy...I thought of merging that design to a RV-8...Still collecting thoughts
myself on this too.......
You would need to design a skirt to merge with the fuse......I did 1/4 of a rv6
canopy & a whole Rv-4 canopy but any thoughts would be appreciated
smetzger(at)ma.ultranet.com on 02/14/2000 12:33:24 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Blasphemy
I am a long way from any hint of canopy work, but the recent email threads
got me wondering about the RV8 sliding canopy.
Has anyone ever considered leaving it intact with a tilt-to-the-side
arrangement like the RV4? Seems to me that it would simplify the cutting
and mounting tasks that have generated so many questions on this list.
The real benefit would be getting rid of that dividing bar between front
windshield and slider. The visibility would be (even more) phenomenal!
Nothing could compare except an F16, and of course an RV4. The price would
be 10 knots of ground-appeal and taxi ventilation.
Steve Metzger
RV8A
Still on the tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Del Schneider" <del(at)deltech.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
Good Morning, (It is still morning here)
I am building an RV-6A. I intend to do the interior in leather or possibly
leather & cloth. I am somewhat decided on color being a light tan to go with
an beige and red exterior. Things may change????. Would you kindly e-mail
whatever you have available electronically or if you wish
use the other mail system to;
Del Schneider
7650 St. Patrick Avenue #108
Prince George, BC V2N 4E8
Canada
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Knight
> Sent: February 13, 2000 12:07 PM
> To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV6-List: Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices
>
>
> --> RV6-List message posted by: Sam Knight
>
> RV-6 Builders:
>
> I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
> upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
> available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
> other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for
> several kitplane
> manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
> request.
>
> For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
> 207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
> information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
> reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
> available upon request.
>
> Sincerely,
> KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
> "Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
>
> Sam Knight
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tilt vs. Sliding canopy |
In a message dated 2/12/00 5:16:42 PM Central Standard Time,
JNice51355(at)aol.com writes:
<< < A tilt canopy WILL trap you if the
airplane goes on it's back. >>
I would not think that it would be that difficult to make modifications to
the design of the basic tip-up that preclude this from happening. It would
be a nice touch to be able to "shed" that canopy, be it a tip-up or a
slider,
prior to touchdown during an off
airport landing. I plan a tip-up, with the ability to do this. Let's see,
"Ca >>
If you feel the need to "shed" the canopy, there is a reference to that in
the RV6/6a construction manual, section 9 "canopy release (jettison)
mechanism", page 9-2 with an illustration on page P(9-1) and drawing 52.
This may be of interest to you. Bud
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
>
>Brian,
>Did the idle mixture screw fall out? Did the economizer valve get stuck?
>Do
>you have a 1 piece ventrui and is that in tact? These are the only things
>I
>can think of right now. Let me know what you find.
>***Bryan E. Files***
>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>Fat City Aircraft
>Palmer, Alaska
>mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
Bryan,
Mixture screw was in place. Economizer valve? Well, I must confess to not
knowing what that is. Everything inside the carb was intact, freely moving,
and not binding or chafing on anything. The metal float had no gas in it,
one piece venturi in good shape, all cotter pins were found in place, bowl
to body gasket intact, finger screen looked very good, but what about......
(drum roll)...
The A&P that helped me with the whole process pointed out a potential issue.
I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the finger
screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up and
gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I figured
it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
alive and well and still love my airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing |
>
>
>Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >
> > (snip)
> > Symptoms: loss of rpm, could not get more than 1500 rpm at any throttle
>or
> > mixture setting. Response: carb heat, check mags, check fuel pressure,
>oil
> > pressure, temps, etc. All normal, but the EGT is at ZERO. NOT good. It
>was
> > as if the throttle cable had broken at half throttle and the engine was
> > still firing smoothly but evidently with LOTS of gas or something that
>would
> > drop the EGT so drastically.
>
>I've not done much flying behind carburated engines in several years, but I
>wonder if this is the situation that was discussed a while back WRT using
>the
>primer to keep fuel going to the engine. Brian, I don't recall what you
>did
>for a primer (or even if you did) although I have been following your
>progress
>with interest. If you do have a primer installed, did you try using it?
>
>Any comments from more knowledgable/experienced listers?
James,
I have a manual primer pump that goes to three cylinders. I didn't use it
nor did I even think of doing so! I think I went into brain lock after the
previous checks were done. I recall the last gauge I looked at before
locking onto the airspeed indicator was the fuel pressure gauge. It had 4psi
showing, so I thought the engine had fuel o'plenty. The winds were over
30mph up at that altitude so I committed myself to maintaining controllable
airspeed and getting it on that runway. My whole existence, as well as my
wife's, was riding on what I did in the next minute or so. (Although it
seemed like an eternity).
THANK YOU for bringing this up.
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing |
>
>
>Do you have inline filters? Do you have a gascolator?
The fuel system has the coarse mesh finger screens on the fuel pickups, then
the next step is the screen in the gascolator, then on to the finger screen
at the carb inlet. I recently checked the gascolator screen and found just
a couple of tiny bits of crud, but nothing major.
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
Hello All,
For What It's Worth - Sam Knight did my seats, stick boots and canopy cover
for my RV-6A and they were great. Excellent workmanship and VERY
comfortable.
Regards - Rob Greener - RV-3B N418RL (reserved).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Knight
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 1:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices
RV Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Blasphemy |
>I am a long way from any hint of canopy work, but the recent email
threads
>got me wondering about the RV8 sliding canopy.
>Has anyone ever considered leaving it intact with a tilt-to-the-side
>arrangement like the RV4? Seems to me that it would simplify the cutting
>and mounting tasks that have generated so many questions on this list.
There was a mention in a RV-ator of a RV-8 tip up canopy that would
be lighter and easier to build. Haven't heard anything of it since.
I would be willing to sacrifice slider looks for lighter and easier.
Maybe if Van's knew there was an interest?
>The real benefit would be getting rid of that dividing bar between front
>windshield and slider. The visibility would be (even more) phenomenal!
>Nothing could compare except an F16, and of course an RV4. The price
would
>be 10 knots of ground-appeal and taxi ventilation.
As others have mentioned, this is the overturn protection, so you would
have to keep it there or design a new one. Always liked the idea of some
sort of pole right behind my head that could be a headrest, and be right
where it is needed.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Drilling 2nd fuel tank
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stick in the Left or Right Hand/Cross Hand |
>Quick comment on "cross hand operation". Right or left throttle is one
point
>of consideration but be sure your final setup contains no "cross hand"
>operations. e.g. turning on landing light with one hand then swaping
hands (on
>stick) to reach flap switch then swaping hands (on stick) to reach & turn
fuel
>pump on.....this is more important on a RV-3, -8 or -4 but nontheless is
>important when designing your airplane. The above examples may be lame
but the
>concept of operational layout needs some thought....
Second this. The trim in the Starduster is on the right side and
the throttle on the left. Have to reach across or switch hands to
use. End up not using it much, just living with the push or pull.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Drilling 2nd fuel tank
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
RTV and Teflon Tape are TWO NO-NOs in a fuel system.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, February 14, 2000 2:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?)
>
>
>>
>>Brian,
>>Did the idle mixture screw fall out? Did the economizer valve get stuck?
>>Do
>>you have a 1 piece ventrui and is that in tact? These are the only things
>>I
>>can think of right now. Let me know what you find.
>>***Bryan E. Files***
>>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>>Fat City Aircraft
>>Palmer, Alaska
>>mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
>Bryan,
>
>Mixture screw was in place. Economizer valve? Well, I must confess to not
>knowing what that is. Everything inside the carb was intact, freely
moving,
>and not binding or chafing on anything. The metal float had no gas in it,
>one piece venturi in good shape, all cotter pins were found in place, bowl
>to body gasket intact, finger screen looked very good, but what about......
>
>(drum roll)...
>
>The A&P that helped me with the whole process pointed out a potential
issue.
> I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the finger
>screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up
and
>gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
>first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
>innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I figured
>it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
>AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>alive and well and still love my airplane.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
>
snipped
> I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the finger
> screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up and
> gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
> first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
> innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I figured
> it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
> AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
Brian,
Homicide detectives refer to your situation as a "self inflicted gun shoot
wound"! NEVER use RTV anywhere there is fuel. Gas dissolves the stuff nicely.
As an auto and motorcycle mechanic, I wish I had a dollar for every time I had
to repair a fuel system where someone (usually the owner) applied RTV to an old
fuel system gasket rather than purchase a new gasket.
Consider yourself lucky.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of tip-ups... |
>
>listers,
>
>searched the archives, but couldn't find an answer to this one...how big
>should the gap be between the front and rear portions of the tip-up canopy
>to allow for thermal expansion?
Louis, went up to the airport today and measured the gap. I could get a
piece of .063 in easily but not a piece of .075. My gap is pretty uniform
in size all way around . I don't know what the expansion factor of plexiglas
is cold vs hot. It is about 25 degrees F. today, but I have not had any
problems during summer either and it gets over 90 here occassionally. 3/32
would probably be a good compromise and remember once everything is rivited
up it is very easy to trim more off if need be.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept. 8,1993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Blasphemy |
The sliding canopy on my 8A is the sexiest part besides me :-) Really,
cutting the canopy is not all that bad. I followed the instructions as if
being led by God and everything turned out OK. I really, really like the
sliding canopy!
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>I am a long way from any hint of canopy work, but the recent email threads
>got me wondering about the RV8 sliding canopy.
>
>Has anyone ever considered leaving it intact with a tilt-to-the-side
>arrangement like the RV4? Seems to me that it would simplify the cutting
>and mounting tasks that have generated so many questions on this list.
>
>The real benefit would be getting rid of that dividing bar between front
>windshield and slider. The visibility would be (even more) phenomenal!
>Nothing could compare except an F16, and of course an RV4. The price would
>be 10 knots of ground-appeal and taxi ventilation.
>
>Steve Metzger
>RV8A
>Still on the tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
You know, one of the tech counsils I spoke to mentioned he uses red rtv
everywhere, so i was just about to use it on my tank when i deceded to
read the small print on the package....it said specifiaclly to not use
it on, near,at any item which comes in contact with gasoline.
Hmmm great stuff for car use huh.
Gert
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Brian,
> >Did the idle mixture screw fall out? Did the economizer valve get stuck?
> >Do
> >you have a 1 piece ventrui and is that in tact? These are the only things
> >I
> >can think of right now. Let me know what you find.
> >***Bryan E. Files***
> >A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> >Fat City Aircraft
> >Palmer, Alaska
> >mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
> Bryan,
>
> Mixture screw was in place. Economizer valve? Well, I must confess to not
> knowing what that is. Everything inside the carb was intact, freely moving,
> and not binding or chafing on anything. The metal float had no gas in it,
> one piece venturi in good shape, all cotter pins were found in place, bowl
> to body gasket intact, finger screen looked very good, but what about......
>
> (drum roll)...
>
> The A&P that helped me with the whole process pointed out a potential issue.
> I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the finger
> screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up and
> gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
> first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
> innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I figured
> it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
> AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> alive and well and still love my airplane.
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilotrv6a(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Help on wiring radio |
Hi Jim!
Quit putting down Terra Radios. Mine is working fine now.
Sherman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing |
Brian Denk wrote:
> snip
>
> I committed myself to maintaining controllable
> airspeed and getting it on that runway. My whole existence, as well as my
> wife's, was riding on what I did in the next minute or so. (Although it
> seemed like an eternity).
snip
It's been said before but bears repeating: The bottom line is ALWAYS FLY THE
AIRPLANE. "brain lock" or not, you did exactly the right thing. Anything else
is gravy.
>
>
> THANK YOU for bringing this up.
>
> Brian Denk
Thank you--your reporting this in detail lets the 1000+ of the rest of us role
paly this in our heads, and even nitpick after the fact, thus making us all
safer
James
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti VanderSchuur" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
Team Rocket, Inc. has just delivered three F-1 kits to the state of CA, and
we have 006. What a wonderful Day!!
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rear Baffle Question |
Our Chapter Tech counselor is building a modified Longeze. He showed me is
cylinder baffling this weekend. It is one ply of bi-directional fiberglass
with RTV Ultra Blue squeegied into it from both sides. He slaps this right
up to the cylinder and puts saran wrap on the outside to smooth the surface.
There is also a connection between the cylinders of impregnated fiberglass
cloth. This is very neat installation. The opening and the top and bottom
of the cylinders is very critical to the cooling but all the air must flow
through the fins the why this is set up. Has anyone else seen or heard of
this? He made it sound as if this was well researched and yet I've not seen
any discussion on the list on this.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 12:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Rear Baffle Question
>
> Kyle Boatright said:
> > My baffle kit fits pretty well... EXCEPT... The top left dynofocal
> > mount pushes the back left baffle way out of place.
> [snip]
> > If I cut it for a tight fit, it'll chafe the dynofocal mount. If
> > I cut it for a loose fit, I'll have a big air leak.
>
> Mine is an O-360 but it doesn't sound too much different... I had to bend
it
> some and trim around the mount then just fill in the gap with RTV. In fact
> its common practice to seal around the whole baffle with RTV. Or are you
> saying that your gap is too big for that....?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Respirators for AKZO primer |
AKZO primer users, are you using a fresh air system like the
HobbyAire system, or is it OK to just use a high-quality respirator?
If you can't smell anything bad does that mean you aren't breathing
anything toxic or is some of the bad stuff odorless?
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A Tail
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Blasphemy |
>
>
>The sliding canopy on my 8A is the sexiest part besides me :-) Really,
>cutting the canopy is not all that bad. I followed the instructions as if
>being led by God and everything turned out OK. I really, really like the
>sliding canopy!
>
>Bill Pagan
>RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
Agreed! That canopy get's everyone's attention at the airport. It's the
closest to the F-86 Sabre jet that I've ever seen on a civilian aircraft.
Oh, and yes, Bill IS sexier...but shave your legs will ya?!!
Yes, I'm feeling better after earning my "RV8 glider rating".
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Respirators for AKZO primer |
I use a 3M Respirator with the organic cartridge. I clean up with MEK . . .
and it is the MEK that gets pretty strong. Having said this, inside my mask
I don't even get a whiff of MEK.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, February 14, 2000 6:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Respirators for AKZO primer
>
>AKZO primer users, are you using a fresh air system like the
>HobbyAire system, or is it OK to just use a high-quality respirator?
>If you can't smell anything bad does that mean you aren't breathing
>anything toxic or is some of the bad stuff odorless?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark Schrimmer
>RV-9A Tail
>Irvine, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
To me this doesn't mean you're thinking too much but dong your homework.
That type of thinking and homework keeps our planes in the air and people
alive. Keep it up. And balancing a prop by adding "bolt-on" weights is not
a "major" alteration in that not doing it could more adversely affect the
performance. If we look at helicopters they do it at a 100 hour/annual
inspection and change it as necessary. it is not considered a major
alteration but routine maintenance. Now if you were to start drilling holes
and filling them with lead, etc. then we are talking another matter.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
"Das Fed"
>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop balance
>Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 23:43:07 -0800
>
>
>Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I'm not convinced the prop balance
>constitutes a major change in our situation. Stay with me here...
>
>Boyd said:
> > Consult FAR 43, Appendix A..."major repair" includes " A repair to a
> > component that if improperly done might affect weight, balance..."
> > "Major alteration" includes alterations not listed in the propeller
> > specs. that might appreciably affect weight, balance..."
>
>Then Bill Noel pointed out that:
> > The FAR's also say that FAR part 43 does not apply to experimental
> > category.
>
>And "Das Fed" came back with:
> > What you say is partially true until you look in your Operating
>Limitations
> > issued with the Airworthiness Certificate. There are parts that
> > apply(i.e., logbook entries). A major alteration is covered seperately
>by
> > the Operating Limitations.
>
>So we go look at the operating limitations, and they refer to part 21.93,
>NOT part 43, for what constitutes a "major alteration". So we go read part
>21.93(a), which says:
>
> ...changes in type design are classified as minor and
> major. A "minor change" is one that has no appreciable effect on the
> weight, balance, structural strength, reliability, operational
> characteristics, or other characteristics affecting the airworthiness
>of
> the product. All other changes are "major changes"...
>
>So we're down to, as I see it, whether a change in the weight of the prop
>has an "appreciable" effect on w/b, or whether reliability or operational
>characteristics are effected. I suppose a smoother prop could be said to
>affect the reliability and operational characteristics, but in that case
>then changing the mag timing or idle mixture would also be "major
>alterations". If we throw that out, then all we're left with is the FAA's
>definition of "appreciable weight/balance change. And shoot, if adding or
>removing a few ounces from the flywheel is what they're talking about, then
>just about every change would constitute a "major alteration. Heck, I'm
>right now painting my plane which will certainly have more of a w/b effect
>than balancing the prop. Is that a major alteration? I've never heard of it
>as such, but.... uh-oh, am I opening another can of worms here?
>
>I know, I know, I'm just a-thinkin' too much...! Gotta do something while
>my
>plane's down for paint!
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oh, no. I did it again! Elevator |
Help! I was making good progress on my left elevator. After dinner tonight,
I went to the garage and proceded to rivet the skin on. While admiring what
I had done so far, I saw the control horn lying on the work bench! I failed
to drill and rivet it to the skeleton. If you knew me well that would be no
big surprise. Now what? Someone please tell me I don't have to drill the
elevator back apart. Can you substitute some type of pop rivet for
attachment of the control horn? I'll contact Van's tomorrow, but I thought
I'd plead to y'all first.
Thanks,
Troy Black
-8 emp.(was almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rear Baffle Question |
> My baffle kit fits pretty well... EXCEPT... The top left dynofocal mount
> pushes the back left baffle way out of place. Probably 1/2 inch or so.
The
> plans mention a 1/8" finger spacer between the baffle and the crankcase,
but
> this isn't gonna cut it. The only solution I see is to make a cut out
that
> goes around the dynofocal doughnut, so the baffle can fit as planned. If
I
> cut it for a tight fit, it'll chafe the dynofocal mount. If I cut it for
a
> loose fit, I'll have a big air leak.
I also had to carve a bit on the plate on my 360 dynafocal. Keep in mind
that the forward metal part of the mount is rigidly attached to the engine,
only the ballooning rubber part needs to be cut around loosely. BTW, I
didn't need the 1/8" spacer, as doing so would have caused interference of
the baffle with the cylinder fins. I did, however, add a length of angle
under that bolt extending outward, to stabilize the junction between the
inboard and outboard left rear baffles. They were very floppy fore and aft
before adding that angle.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oh, no. I did it again! Elevator |
Troy: don't fret. I did something similar when riveting the skins on my
horizontal stabilizer. I put the bucking bar down on the spar after
riveting the last internal rivet on the left side. A few days later, when
it came time to rivet the right skin on, I couldn't find the bucking bar. I
turned the shop upside down twice looking for the bar before shining a light
into the HS and finding the bar. I only had to drill out a few rivets in
the lower inside corner of the skin to get the bar out. Just drill out
enough rivets to get the bar or yoke in to rivet on the horn. Good luck,
Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: <TBRV(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 5:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oh, no. I did it again! Elevator
>
> Help! I was making good progress on my left elevator. After dinner
tonight,
> I went to the garage and proceded to rivet the skin on. While admiring
what
> I had done so far, I saw the control horn lying on the work bench! I
failed
> to drill and rivet it to the skeleton. If you knew me well that would be
no
> big surprise. Now what? Someone please tell me I don't have to drill the
> elevator back apart. Can you substitute some type of pop rivet for
> attachment of the control horn? I'll contact Van's tomorrow, but I
thought
> I'd plead to y'all first.
>
> Thanks,
> Troy Black
> -8 emp.(was almost done)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Versadek Product Report |
During my first condition inspection, I installed Versadek on the
cockpit floor and it looks great! I now have no reservation about
'kicking back' to get out of the seat. The previous carpeting was not
glued down and tended to push forward easily. Seems there is no
graceful way to enter or depart the RV.
Installation took some attention to proper trimming since I glued it
directly to the floor between the fore-and-aft angles. The 3M Super
Trim Adhesive #08090 was easy to work with.
Versadek is an attractive and practical floor covering for those who are
undecided as to what to how to cover the floor. It can later be
removed, if necessary, by using a heat gun. It is not plush to match a
leather interior but is practical and durable. This is a product worthy
of your consideration. For information on Versadek, contact Garry
Legare at versadek(at)earthlink.net.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 150 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of tip-ups... |
Louis, I suggest that you install a Targa strip over the top and then
the gap really doesn't make any difference! A uniform gap of 1/8" would
seem appropriate even if you didn't install the Targa however.
Hope you found my Tilt Canopy notes on the net and hope they helped you.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 150 hours
Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
>
> listers,
>
> searched the archives, but couldn't find an answer to this one...how big
> should the gap be between the front and rear portions of the tip-up canopy
> to allow for thermal expansion?
>
> i would hate to have a nice tight joint in the hanger, and then after
> leaving the airplane in the hot sun for a few hours, find that the two
> halves had melted together!
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a qb finish kit
> mamaroneck, ny
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Tip Up Gap (Long) |
Making that gap uniform is very tough, because once you cut the canopy in
two, the back end of it shifts, and pressure is released. The back half
will now have further cutting to make it sit properly. Mine came out
uneven, and too wide in some places, so I trimmed it back even further to
allow a smooth edge all the way around, added a fiberglass targa strip on
the front piece. This turned out very nice, and was not that much work.
Not to mention, I have a tight seal where water or air can not enter.
The procedure for this was as follows:
1.Mask off the front portion of the canopy up to approximately 2 inches from
the trailing edge.
2. Rough up the exposed plexi with 80 grit.
3. TIGHTLY cover the rear window with wax paper, with some excess going
forward, and shut inside the cockpit. Press the wax paper into the groove
on the canopy roll bar. It is important that the paper is completely flat
and stuck tightly to the rear window.
4. Shut the canopy, using the latches as if you were shutting it to fly.
5. Lay up 3 layers of fiberglass up to the edge of the tape. The layers
should be covering the split between the two pieces of plexi. Make sure
that it is pressed down on the wax paper, too. Cover with Peel Ply.
6. When cured, fill and sand with a thin filler like Evercoat, and sand
down to the level of the tape. Sand the back edge of your new strip
straight with a long sanding block to make sure it is straight.
Hope this helps for those of you who didn't get a perfect gap!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Rocky Mountain RVators; Mid winter meeting |
listers, and specifically Rocky Mountain RVator Members
For those of you who have nothing to do this weekend, come on out to
Front
Range Airport (FTG) for the mid-winter meeting of the Rocky Mountain
RVators.
coffee
will be hot and there should be donuts if I remember to buy them.
This is just a fun get to gether to shoot the stuff with other local
(and some
not so local) RV builders. We have 3 RV-6A's,; two under construction
and mine
which is flying as of last week. If you are interested in composite
construction we also have a Lancair 360 in the finishing stages for your
viewing enjoyment.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ Flying Since 2/8/00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
> The A&P that helped me with the whole process pointed out a potential
issue.
> I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the
finger
> screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up
and
> gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
> first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
> innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I figured
> it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
> AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
I think that is a valid possibility. It's important to be VERY careful with
foreign matter in the fuel system. There have been problems with Teflon
tape coming off of fittings and clogging thing up also. Conventional wisdom
is that you shouldn't use anything but Fuel Lube on any fittings, and then
only on pipe threads. You shouldn't need to use anything on the finger
screen nut, the copper gasket provides all of the sealing you need. It's a
real good idea to toss the old one and put a new one in whenever you check
the screen too. I know some A&P's don't have any problem reusing copper
gaskets for spark plugs, finger screens, and oil screens, but I for one
would rather spend a couple bucks than have a fire or engine failure.
BTW, excellent job on FLYING THE AIRPLANE first and foremost. That makes
this something we can all learn from rather than a tragedy.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank baffle: How To? |
Larry, the only reason to dimple the tank skins and the rear bulkhead was to
retain all the strength of the metal. Clearly, countersinking is ok, but you
do wind up with less material. Also, its easier. Andy Johnson
-------------------
I don't think this is an option for me. The rivet holes are too close to
the radius of the baffle flange - even if I ground the dimple die down.
(I've already discussed this with Van's. I'm closer than most, but still
acceptable)I guess that's why the plans say to CS this area instead of
dimple. Why were you compelled to dimple here?
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 9:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank baffle: How To?
>
>
> Larry, you can dimple the whole works with a die with a flat
> ground on the
> side to allow getting in close to the radius. Your choice as to
> tank dies or
> the regular ones. I used the tank dies on the first tank and
> found that the
> rivets would not "center" and tipped in the larger dimple. Am
> going to use
> the regular dies on the next tank. Andy Johnson, -8 wings, left completed.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
Somebody (Brian?) should probably forward the lesson learned to Van's for
the next RVator.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?)
>
> >
>
> snipped
>
> > I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the
finger
> > screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up
and
> > gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
> > first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
> > innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I
figured
> > it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
> > AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
>
> Brian,
> Homicide detectives refer to your situation as a "self inflicted gun
shoot
> wound"! NEVER use RTV anywhere there is fuel. Gas dissolves the stuff
nicely.
> As an auto and motorcycle mechanic, I wish I had a dollar for every time I
had
> to repair a fuel system where someone (usually the owner) applied RTV to
an old
> fuel system gasket rather than purchase a new gasket.
> Consider yourself lucky.
> Charlie Kuss
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oh, no. I did it again! Elevator |
Thanks for the reply, Rion. Chuckling about the bucking bar inside the HS
helped inspire me to get in the garage and do what had to be done. The horn
is now clecoed in place and I'll finish the job tomorrow. Luckily, I hadn't
riveted the inboard rib, yet. Thanks.
Troy Black
Angleton, TX
-8 emp(almost done!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balance |
Ah!, but helicopters have the process in the maintenance manual and the
balance provisions were designed into the aircraft from the beginning hence
they are part of the "type design". Maximum vibrations and detailed
instructions on how to perform are given. Northeast region would not have
approved chadwicks "smooth propellor" to be approved data for 337's if prop
balance was not a major. And do not confuse this as a flame, I love argueing
regs. "rotorhead"
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, February 14, 2000 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop balance
>
>To me this doesn't mean you're thinking too much but dong your homework.
>That type of thinking and homework keeps our planes in the air and people
>alive. Keep it up. And balancing a prop by adding "bolt-on" weights is
not
>a "major" alteration in that not doing it could more adversely affect the
>performance. If we look at helicopters they do it at a 100 hour/annual
>inspection and change it as necessary. it is not considered a major
>alteration but routine maintenance. Now if you were to start drilling
holes
>and filling them with lead, etc. then we are talking another matter.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>"Das Fed"
>
>
>>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop balance
>>Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 23:43:07 -0800
>>
>>
>>Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I'm not convinced the prop balance
>>constitutes a major change in our situation. Stay with me here...
>>
>>Boyd said:
>> > Consult FAR 43, Appendix A..."major repair" includes " A repair to a
>> > component that if improperly done might affect weight, balance..."
>> > "Major alteration" includes alterations not listed in the propeller
>> > specs. that might appreciably affect weight, balance..."
>>
>>Then Bill Noel pointed out that:
>> > The FAR's also say that FAR part 43 does not apply to experimental
>> > category.
>>
>>And "Das Fed" came back with:
>> > What you say is partially true until you look in your Operating
>>Limitations
>> > issued with the Airworthiness Certificate. There are parts that
>> > apply(i.e., logbook entries). A major alteration is covered seperately
>>by
>> > the Operating Limitations.
>>
>>So we go look at the operating limitations, and they refer to part 21.93,
>>NOT part 43, for what constitutes a "major alteration". So we go read part
>>21.93(a), which says:
>>
>> ...changes in type design are classified as minor and
>> major. A "minor change" is one that has no appreciable effect on the
>> weight, balance, structural strength, reliability, operational
>> characteristics, or other characteristics affecting the airworthiness
>>of
>> the product. All other changes are "major changes"...
>>
>>So we're down to, as I see it, whether a change in the weight of the prop
>>has an "appreciable" effect on w/b, or whether reliability or operational
>>characteristics are effected. I suppose a smoother prop could be said to
>>affect the reliability and operational characteristics, but in that case
>>then changing the mag timing or idle mixture would also be "major
>>alterations". If we throw that out, then all we're left with is the FAA's
>>definition of "appreciable weight/balance change. And shoot, if adding or
>>removing a few ounces from the flywheel is what they're talking about,
then
>>just about every change would constitute a "major alteration. Heck, I'm
>>right now painting my plane which will certainly have more of a w/b effect
>>than balancing the prop. Is that a major alteration? I've never heard of
it
>>as such, but.... uh-oh, am I opening another can of worms here?
>>
>>I know, I know, I'm just a-thinkin' too much...! Gotta do something while
>>my
>>plane's down for paint!
>>
>>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
>>Portland, OR
>>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Versadek Product Report |
During my first condition inspection, I installed Versadek on the
cockpit floor and it looks great! I now have no reservation about
'kicking back' to get out of the seat. The previous carpeting was not
glued down and tended to push forward easily. Seems there is no
graceful way to enter or depart the RV.
Installation took some attention to proper trimming since I glued it
directly to the floor between the fore-and-aft angles. The 3M Super
Trim Adhesive #08090 was easy to work with.
Versadek is an attractive and practical floor covering for those who are
undecided as to what to how to cover the floor. It can later be
removed, if necessary, by using a heat gun. It is not plush to match a
leather interior but is practical and durable. This is a product worthy
of your consideration. For informatX-Mozilla-Status: 0009ct Garry
Legare at versadek(at)earthlink.net.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 150 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of tip-ups... |
Louis, I suggest that you install a Targa strip over the top and then
the gap really doesn't make any difference! A uniform gap of 1/8" would
seem appropriate even if you didn't install the Targa however.
Hope you found my Tilt Canopy notes on the net and hope they helped you.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 150 hours
Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
>
> listers,
>
> searched the archives, but couldn't find an answer to this one...how big
> should the gap be between the front and rear portions of the tip-up canopy
> to allow for thermal expansion?
>
> i would hate to have a nice tight joint in the hanger, and then after
> leaving the airplane in the hot sun for a few hours, find that the two
> halves had melted together!
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a qb finish kit
> mamaroneck, ny
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6bldr(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: Respirators for AKZO primer |
I use a good respirator. I can't smell the AKZO at all and that's good
enough for me since AKZO is strong smell'n stuff!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
Mark Schrimmer wrote:
>
>
> AKZO primer users, are you using a fresh air system like the
> HobbyAire system, or is it OK to just use a high-quality respirator?
> If you can't smell anything bad does that mean you aren't breathing
> anything toxic or is some of the bad stuff odorless?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A Tail
> Irvine, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: qb6 flap installation |
Dennis,
You are right, there are three "degrees of freedom" for the wings - three
things to check out.
As I described, check for sweep. Someone told me this was most likely to
be off and most important.
Check for perpendicular with fuselage. Less important I was told but if
off, adds drag. As Van has said, "the fuselage is just along for the ride".
Check for incidence. If off, may require other adjustments.
Sweep error might cause unusual handling, I guess???
I certainly did not know the wings were of different lengths! I just
measured from center point on fuselage at rear to same point on each wing
at the spar. My friend and I discussed where this point is quite a
bit. We decided it is not on the empennage but on the fuselage equidistant
from the longerons.
hal
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, February 14, 2000 9:33 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: qb6 flap installation
>
>
> >
> >
> >The way I checked for sweep:
> >
> > 1. Hang a plumb bob over the leading edge at each wing root and
> >each wing tip (tip of aluminum, not fiberglass). Four plumb bobs.
> >
> > 2. Run a string between two posts, I used chairs but not the
> >rocking kind.
> >
> > 3. The string passes in front of the plumb bob strings and should
> >be the same distance from each one.
> >
> >
> >hal
>This is a good way to ensure that the wings are collinear -- in a straight
>line. However, you need to accurately measure from a point on the tips to
>the center at the tail to get the wing LE's perpendicular to the centerline.
>Be sure to measure out from the spar ends because the wings are not of equal
>lengths. I was fortunate to have help from two very experienced RV builders
>who have done this a dozen times. The iterative steps to achieve collinear,
>perpendicular and proper-incidence alignment were not intuitively obvious to
>me!
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
Guys,
I'm beginning to think that I need to either build an RV-9 (no drill
required) or just go buy something pre made. After two long days of
finishing my flaps, I sat back to admire work that is improving
aesthetically. I had the flaps sitting on the long workbench, and I
noticed the left flap's trailing edge was raised. I pushed it down and
the other side raised. Then the loud ringing in my ears began and I got
that neat tunnel vision, as I realized that the flap has a twist in it.
When consciousness returned, I measured and it seems like there is about
1/4 inch of a twist. The real pisser is that when I drilled the top
skin to the lower skin and ribs, I did it on the flat surface and I used
shot bags to hold it down flat. When I riveted it today, I had it in
the V-block jig, very much the same way George Orndorff does. So. How
many rivets would I have to drill out to induce a twist to straighten
this thing? Would it be easier to just build a new flap? Or should I
take up gardening?
Since I didn't have an Emergency Landing, I feel that a full 12 Beers
would be an over reaction, so for the moment I'll start with about six
and see how it feels.
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
The Learning Curve's flattening, too bad the flap isn't
PS. Seriously Brian, I'm glad you and the wife are OK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Tue,
15 Feb 2000 07:59:29.-0500(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Flap problem |
Drink the beer and build the next flap. It will probably be warped the other way
and offset the other, not that it really maters. I imagine a large percentage of
RV's have a flap just like yours. Move on with the project and soon it will just
not matter. Build as exact as you can then take what you get. Keep in mind, it
won't show up on radar, and at 200 MPH it will be real hard to see.
Eric Henson
Keith Hughes on 02/15/2000 12:06:32 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Flap problem
>>>>Guys,
as I realized that the flap has a twist in it.
When consciousness returned, I measured and it seems like there is about
1/4 inch of a twist. The real pisser is that when I drilled the top
skin to the lower skin and ribs, I did it on the flat surface and I used
shot bags to hold it down flat.
________________________________________________________________________________
This note is for all listers,
Sun n Fun is just around the corner! Show off your RV4, RV6, RV6A, RV8, or
RV8A and your paint scheme and n-number by proudly displayin them on your
shirt. I can embroider your paint scheme on a high quality Outer Banks shirt
(white, polo) with a pocket, with your plane proudly displayed over the
pocket. I can have them completed and returned to you in time for SNF. All
you need to do is send me a pic of your plane, size of shirt that you need,
how many you want, your n-number, your address and phone number, and $20 per
shirt. I will make them up especially for you and return them to you in
plenty of time for SNF. Please make checks payable to:
Paul Brown
11216 Monet Woods Rd.
Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33478
Thanks, and see you at SNF this year!!
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing |
(RESOLUTION?)
Ed & listers,
The advice below is good. That said; it is possible to safely re-use copper
sealing washers. When a fitting is tightened down on a copper washer, the copper
becomes work hardened when it is compressed. Copper is easily annealed
(softened) by heating it cherry red, then dropping the washer in cold water. A
scale (oxide layer) will form on the surface of the copper. This should be
cleaned off using your ScotchBrite pad or wheel before re-using the washer.
Copper gaskets (head gaskets) and washers are work hardened slightly at their
edges when they are made. Years ago I learned that a brand new copper head
gasket would seal better, if it was annealed before use. An annealed washer will
be softer than a brand new one, as the edges are no longer work hardened. You
can prove this to yourself by bending a copper washer in you hands. Anneal it,
then try bending it again. You can feel the difference.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
snipped
> You shouldn't need to use anything on the finger
> screen nut, the copper gasket provides all of the sealing you need. It's a
> real good idea to toss the old one and put a new one in whenever you check
> the screen too. I know some A&P's don't have any problem reusing copper
> gaskets for spark plugs, finger screens, and oil screens, but I for one
> would rather spend a couple bucks than have a fire or engine failure.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Slider vs. Tipup/Tipoff |
| From: | Johnny Johnson <johnnypaj(at)juno.com> |
Jim Sears opines:
<< Were I to do it again, I might buy a slider; but, I might also just
<< go ahead with another tip up. Safety wouldn't even come into the
<< picture. If I'm that afraid I'm going to crash, I'd carry an axe.
Better,
<< yet. I'd probably not even fly. I do carry a fire extinquisher that
could
<< be used to break the canopy, I guess.
Jim, you're either a real optimist or stronger than Hulk Hogan....
careful that thing doesn't squirt on you when pounding on the canopy....
:=))
Seriously, guys & gals--please... consider the importance of having a way
to get that canopy out of the way if you're ever caught in a situation
where the airplane might flip on it's back during landing. Slider: a
lock to hold it open or jettison capability. Tipup/Tipoff: jettison
capability. And... a "roll bar". Sure, it's very unlikely any of this
will ever be needed... but if it is, you'd give the family jewels to have
it... and somebody might inherit them if you don't... :=((
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3A flying
Old, not bold...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider vs. Tipup/Tipoff |
I'd probably not even fly. I do carry a fire extinquisher that
could
<< be used to break the canopy, I guess.
.............Be sure to double secure anything that heavy. If in aaccident
situation that bottle slamming loose and accelerating & banging around the
cockpil may be as lethal as the crash...
johnnypaj(at)juno.com on 02/15/2000 08:21:15 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Slider vs. Tipup/Tipoff
Jim Sears opines:
<< Were I to do it again, I might buy a slider; but, I might also just
<< go ahead with another tip up. Safety wouldn't even come into the
<< picture. If I'm that afraid I'm going to crash, I'd carry an axe.
Better,
<< yet. I'd probably not even fly. I do carry a fire extinquisher that
could
<< be used to break the canopy, I guess.
Jim, you're either a real optimist or stronger than Hulk Hogan....
careful that thing doesn't squirt on you when pounding on the canopy....
:=))
Seriously, guys & gals--please... consider the importance of having a way
to get that canopy out of the way if you're ever caught in a situation
where the airplane might flip on it's back during landing. Slider: a
lock to hold it open or jettison capability. Tipup/Tipoff: jettison
capability. And... a "roll bar". Sure, it's very unlikely any of this
will ever be needed... but if it is, you'd give the family jewels to have
it... and somebody might inherit them if you don't... :=((
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3A flying
Old, not bold...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap problem |
Were the v blocks secured ? I had to add .5 inch plywood backboards to my V
blocks for rigitity. Also ,I clamped the mess down with pony straps because I
noticed a little dancing of the assembly when I beat it with my rivet gun. The
pony or strap clamps really did the trick for me .... I think drill out &
re-rivet with pony clamps is only a few (2) hour drill for you......
rv6tc(at)earthlink.net on 02/15/2000 12:06:32 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Flap problem
Guys,
I'm beginning to think that I need to either build an RV-9 (no drill
required) or just go buy something pre made. After two long days of
finishing my flaps, I sat back to admire work that is improving
aesthetically. I had the flaps sitting on the long workbench, and I
noticed the left flap's trailing edge was raised. I pushed it down and
the other side raised. Then the loud ringing in my ears began and I got
that neat tunnel vision, as I realized that the flap has a twist in it.
When consciousness returned, I measured and it seems like there is about
1/4 inch of a twist. The real pisser is that when I drilled the top
skin to the lower skin and ribs, I did it on the flat surface and I used
shot bags to hold it down flat. When I riveted it today, I had it in
the V-block jig, very much the same way George Orndorff does. So. How
many rivets would I have to drill out to induce a twist to straighten
this thing? Would it be easier to just build a new flap? Or should I
take up gardening?
Since I didn't have an Emergency Landing, I feel that a full 12 Beers
would be an over reaction, so for the moment I'll start with about six
and see how it feels.
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
The Learning Curve's flattening, too bad the flap isn't
PS. Seriously Brian, I'm glad you and the wife are OK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:15:33.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Open/eject canopy was Slider vs. Tipup/Tipoff |
02/15/2000 09:20:05 AM
This topic has come up before, and has always kind of puzzled me. It seems
like having the canopy intact over your head during any kind of inversion
could very well provide some protection for your head (i.e. the rock would
first hit the canopy, maybe providing some protection for your head). And
if there was any motion, the canopy may wear away before your head would as
the plane slid along. I know it wouldn't be a lot of protection, but the
thought of my head sliding along the pavement hurts! Wouldn't it be
better to have some way to break it after the whole thing is over?
Scott Fink
Preparing to skin left wing.
Seriously, guys & gals--please... consider the importance of having a way
to get that canopy out of the way if you're ever caught in a situation
where the airplane might flip on it's back during landing.
Johnny Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
(SNIP) Wouldn't it be
>>better to have some way to break it after the whole thing is over?
>>
>>Scott Fink
>>Preparing to skin left wing.
>>
>>
Harbour Freight.com....seels a neat little do all Emegency Hammer
W/mounting bracket for $9.99.
Item 40610-0JFA.
Have a Great Day!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6, Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floor Carpet |
Repost
cretsinger(at)arlington.net on 02/14/2000 05:57:16 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Versadek Product Report
During my first condition inspection, I installed Versadek on the
cockpit floor and it looks great! I now have no reservation about
'kicking back' to get out of the seat. The previous carpeting was not
glued down and tended to push forward easily. Seems there is no
graceful way to enter or depart the RV.
Installation took some attention to proper trimming since I glued it
directly to the floor between the fore-and-aft angles. The 3M Super
Trim Adhesive #08090 was easy to work with.
Versadek is an attractive and practical floor covering for those who are
undecided as to what to how to cover the floor. It can later be
removed, if necessary, by using a heat gun. It is not plush to match a
leather interior but is practical and durable. This is a product worthy
of your consideration. For information on Versadek, contact Garry
Legare at versadek(at)earthlink.net.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 150 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: R T V emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
Vans FAB installation recommends RTV, I chose to find some other filler on the
carb base-to-filter-cutout...any suggestions ?? Even though there isn't supposed
to be fuel there its rather close.... Anyone else drill fuel exit holes in the
FAB ??
gert(at)execpc.com on 02/14/2000 07:04:15 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?)
You know, one of the tech counsils I spoke to mentioned he uses red rtv
everywhere, so i was just about to use it on my tank when i deceded to
read the small print on the package....it said specifiaclly to not use
it on, near,at any item which comes in contact with gasoline.
Hmmm great stuff for car use huh.
Gert
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Brian,
> >Did the idle mixture screw fall out? Did the economizer valve get stuck?
> >Do
> >you have a 1 piece ventrui and is that in tact? These are the only things
> >I
> >can think of right now. Let me know what you find.
> >***Bryan E. Files***
> >A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> >Fat City Aircraft
> >Palmer, Alaska
> >mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
>
> Bryan,
>
> Mixture screw was in place. Economizer valve? Well, I must confess to not
> knowing what that is. Everything inside the carb was intact, freely moving,
> and not binding or chafing on anything. The metal float had no gas in it,
> one piece venturi in good shape, all cotter pins were found in place, bowl
> to body gasket intact, finger screen looked very good, but what about......
>
> (drum roll)...
>
> The A&P that helped me with the whole process pointed out a potential issue.
> I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the finger
> screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up and
> gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
> first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
> innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I figured
> it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
> AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> alive and well and still love my airplane.
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KRUETZFELDT,KEITH (HP-SanJose,ex1)" <keith_kruetzfeldt(at)agilent.com> |
| Subject: | slider and tilt -more?s |
Thanks to everyone for the first responses to my questions on the canopy
styles and my subtly phrased questions as to tail vs nosewheel. This of
course has generated some more questions I would appreciate insight on:
1) I hear a lot of people are putting gas struts on the tilt canopy
thereby defeating the jettison feature- wouldnt this make it illegal
to fly
aerobatics?
2) Can the slider be made so that it can be slide back say an inch or
two in
flight for ventilation (like on T-6's and other slider canopy
planes). This
would be a nice way to ventilate the cabin after a lot of aerobatics
and
one turned "green". Is there a limitation to opening the canopy in
flight?
3) If the plane flips over on the ground, how does one exit the aircraft
in
the tilt and slider canopy versions?
4) Are there any aerobatic limitations to the -6A vs' the -6?
5) Is insurance for the -6 typically higher than the -6A? (I have about
120 hrs nosewheel time, would of course get my tailwheel endoresment
for 6)
6) Have the issues with the failures in the nosegear of the 6A been
resolved. I also heard of failures of the rudder control cables on the
6A- any clarifications?
Thanks
Keith Kruetzfeldt
6/6A tail- rudder
San Jose, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: It Flies, It Flies, N99PZ flies |
Gary,
Congratulations on the completion of you RV. I've enjoyed watching your
progress via the list and look forward to seeing your airplane. Charlie
was talking about flying down for the Longmont fly-in. Maybe we'll see you
there.
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem... |
Listers,
I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's
Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem
*ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are
*not* affected by the issue. Users of Internet Explorer should
use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be
developed.
IMPORTANT:
If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the
following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of
the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly
received and you should resubmit the request using the Netscape
Browser, or wait until a solution for the problem with Internet Explorer
is completed. The Lists affected by the Internet Explorer issue are:
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Please note that the Netscape Browser *IS NOT* affected by this problem
and all lists can be subscribed to and unsubscribed from without a
problem.
I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution
to this problem.
Sorry for the inconvenience,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: R T V emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Vans FAB installation recommends RTV, I chose to find some other filler on
>the
>carb base-to-filter-cutout...any suggestions ?? Even though there isn't
>supposed
>to be fuel there its rather close.... Anyone else drill fuel exit holes
>in the
>FAB ??
>
>
I have the red RTV there and am considering changing to Proseal, although
the RTV seems to be standing up fine so far. Fuel can drip down the
throat and into the crack between the FAB top plate and the carb. I'm
not sure what would happen if a bit of RTV came loose and went through
the engine.
Yes, I have the fuel exit hole in the FAB, per plans.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Tyrrel" <charliet(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocky Mountain RVators; Mid winter meeting |
Gary
Sorry I can't make the fly-in this weekend, I have to work. Perhaps Skinner
and I can get down some other weekend to see N99PZ and show you guys N191XC.
65 hours and still grinning!
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Gascolator Question |
>Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6 and 6A
>as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect both
>tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator installed in
>the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side ahead of
>the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator in the
>same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
>short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the bottom
>fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved the
>gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
Hallo Eustace,
Thanks for your post (above). I originally posted the question to the
RV-list re in-line vs gascolator fuel filtering system. I am still trying
to figure out how you placed your gascolator between the tank and the
fuselage (from your photo which appeared in the RVator 4th issue, 1996). In
the photo it seem that the Facet pump is on the inside of the fuselage. If
I understand your latest post correctly (above), BOTH gascolator & Facet
pump are on the outside of the fuselage. Now I have specific questions:
1)What is the best method to mount both gascolator and Facet pump in an
RV6A. Remember, the 6A has the main landing gear mount bracked inside the
cabin. If you have additional photos abailable I will be glad to send you
some $ for postage/copying.
2) With the ACS- type gascolator ('96 photo, I also have one in my hand) it
seems to be almost IMPOSSIBLE to take the sediment bowl out, change gasket
or inspect/replace the filter. Is there a gascolator with easieer acces to
the screen?
3)Would a drain hole in the wind root fairing let a lot of cold air into
the cabin?
(I made some booties for the aileron pushrod to reduce/eliminate cold air
coming into that area).
>Will post my reasons for going fuel injected in another post in the next
>few days.
Now you got me really curious!
I for one really apprciate your input intothe RV-list.
Happy landings,
Lothar |||-6A tip up; fuel and brake lines before starting canopy |||
Lakewood/ Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig, Norman" <ncraig(at)co.fillmore.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Get me off this list |
Somehow I got put on this list and I'd like to have my address removed so I
don't keep gettilng these messages. thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Gang!
With such excellent discussions going on here, I hate to bother with these following
questions from a newbie, but here it goes.....
Am considering diving in. In fact, I almost hit the "send" button to order my study
plans just before sending this message.
However I have 2 concerns. Size and Financial. I believe I am too big for an RV-4.
I am 6'5" and 230 lbs. Any comments here?
I know a -8 will fit well, but I am a bit concerned with paying for an o-360 and
a CS prop. I am a bit concerned that an o-320 with a fixed prop in a -8 would
be dissapointing at best.
Then there is the -6, but I just have this thing for tandem seating. But could
it be that the -6 is really my best option at the end of the day?
I know there are a few RV'ers around with a $150,000 :-) archangle efis, 3 axis
autopilot, TSIO lyc equiped RV flying around, but is it realistically possible
to construct the aircraft at a reasonable cost? (ie less than $30,000)
Are there any of you that would like to brag to me not about how much you have
invested in to your aircraft, but how successfull you were in cost control?
Lastly, There were a few of you kind folks in the Leesburg / Washing Dulles area
who invited me over to "take a look". Unfortunately, this was before the holidays
roared through. Now that I am back to a stable life pattern, I would like
to take up those offers. Could you please let me know who you are again?
I live in Purcelleville, VA, and my office is right at the Dulles fuel farm on
route 28.
Many thanks, and look forward to your assisting me in making the hardest decision....WHICH
ONE?!!!??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Anyone familar with the O-320-A3A? I got the pressure switch from
AeroElectric for low pressure/master on light. The switch looks like a -6
male thread. On the accessory case to the right of the prop govenor pad is
hex plug that looks like a -6 female. Is this in the oil pressure side of
the oil pump? Could that hole be used for this type of switch?
Thanks!
Have a great day!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
There are no such things as dumb questions !!
What about a -8 with a O-360/fixed prop ?
marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Respirators for AKZO primer |
If you get colourcoded filters get the ones with a brown and white band as a
minimum.
Brown/yellow/white/green is more expensive but gives you much better
protection.
Realise that some paints/solvents absorb oxygen, do ventilate extremely well
if you're using a non-airfed mask.
Marcel de Ruiter
spraypainter/Bombardier Aerospace
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. |
landing (R...
Ah, sounds like an ol' Triumph sickle mechanic talkin'.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
First of all I will give you the best advice I every received. "There are
no Dumb questions in this ball game". Some of them can save your life.
I spent 5 years looking, talking, listening, feeling like an outsider etc. I
did that because someone I respect a lot told me to do it. I am not a kid
(58) and have made my share of dumb moves. Going through all of the
decisions you are going through it appears that you have not ask enough
questions. When you decide to do it it will be because you know what you
want and want to do it, and will have little to do with the cost although
cost will keep you from looking at the "expensive rich man's machines".
A good rule of thumb is 1/3 for the aircraft, 1/3 for the engine, and 1/3rd
for the avonics.
Can it be done for less? - absolutely. It all depends on Luck, persistence
in following bargain opportunities (of course you need to be able to
recognize them).
With all do respect to the owners, there is a lot of junk out there for sale.
There is a big difference between buying someone else's junk and building
your own junk.
Good luck in your hunt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
Many thanks for the quick response guys!
Maybe I should clarify / add.....
I have all but ruled out the -4. I love the -8, and am uncertain about the -6.
(the cessna 152 seating thing, but seems to give good performance without having
to buy the O-360 & CSP)
I plan to slow build, kit by kit, using my work bonus to finance also.
I plan to have a bare bones vfr bird, with cutouts for future avionics / gyros.
I do not count tools into the cost. I am a real gearhed, and after several Mopar
restorations, I have a sizeable collection....Just no riviting equipement, Cleco's
etc. In fact, I am looking forward more to building than flying.
I am a Comm, Me, Inst, ex corporate (BE-E90) now flying a desk in the Finance industry.
I have about 600 TW, mostly Pitts S-2A. Bellanca 8KCAB, so the conventional
geared aircraft are where my heart is.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
I think you are looking at a 7000 to 9000 dollar savings by going that route. I
intend to go that way.............( cost incurred with a hi pressure fuel pump,
prop govener, C/S prop & Fuel Injection will not be incurred )
marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com on 02/15/2000 03:54:50 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: dumb questions
There are no such things as dumb questions !!
What about a -8 with a O-360/fixed prop ?
marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
> I know a -8 will fit well, but I am a bit concerned with paying for an o-360
and a CS prop. I am a bit concerned that an o-320 with a fixed prop in a -8 would
be dissapointing at best.
A 360 with a fixed pitch prop should work well in an 8. Its price difference over
a 320 is really not enough to matter. I agree, a 320 would be rather anemic.
>
> Then there is the -6, but I just have this thing for tandem seating. But could
it be that the -6 is really my best option at the end of the day?
I'm 6'2". The top of my headset comes within 1/2" of the roof in my 6A. If you
have long legs and a short body it might help. Otherwise it is likely that with
a 6 you will have to either settle for a very thin seat cushion, or customize
the belly ribs so you sit lower in the fuselage. Van's once had an RV-6
derivitive with a taller canopy and larger rudder. You might want to see if that
is still a possibility.
>
> but is it realistically possible to construct the aircraft at a reasonable cost?
(ie less than $30,000)
> Are there any of you that would like to brag to me not about how much you have
invested in to your aircraft, but how successfull you were in cost control?
I've got around 35K in my 6A with a $10,000, 1000 hr 0-360 engine, wood prop, simple
VFR panel, and a paint job that was done for a case of scotch. Since then,
I've put another couple thousand into the panel and about 12K into a shared
hangar. I don't believe that you could do it much cheaper than that.
> Many thanks, and look forward to your assisting me in making the hardest decision....WHICH
ONE?!!!??
I picked a 6 because of the passenger's comfort and superior cross country ability.
When the RV-10 comes out I'll build another. (4 place, pressurized, retract,
turbine). Then I'd probably trade in the 6 for a 4. Wouldn't that be a nice
combination?
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
Nothing wrong with a -8 with a O-320 or O-360 fixed prop & carb. 1,5 or 10 years
down the road you can put a mooney engine & prop on if the bug bit....but the
bug might not bite & you would still have a mighty fine airplane.
Shrike(at)aol.com on 02/15/2000 02:30:45 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: dumb questions
Hi Gang!
With such excellent discussions going on here, I hate to bother with these
following questions from a newbie, but here it goes.....
Am considering diving in. In fact, I almost hit the "send" button to order my
study plans just before sending this message.
However I have 2 concerns. Size and Financial. I believe I am too big for an
RV-4. I am 6'5" and 230 lbs. Any comments here?
I know a -8 will fit well, but I am a bit concerned with paying for an o-360 and
a CS prop. I am a bit concerned that an o-320 with a fixed prop in a -8 would be
dissapointing at best.
Then there is the -6, but I just have this thing for tandem seating. But could
it be that the -6 is really my best option at the end of the day?
I know there are a few RV'ers around with a $150,000 :-) archangle efis, 3 axis
autopilot, TSIO lyc equiped RV flying around, but is it realistically possible
to construct the aircraft at a reasonable cost? (ie less than $30,000)
Are there any of you that would like to brag to me not about how much you have
invested in to your aircraft, but how successfull you were in cost control?
Lastly, There were a few of you kind folks in the Leesburg / Washing Dulles area
who invited me over to "take a look". Unfortunately, this was before the
holidays roared through. Now that I am back to a stable life pattern, I would
like to take up those offers. Could you please let me know who you are again?
I live in Purcelleville, VA, and my office is right at the Dulles fuel farm on
route 28.
Many thanks, and look forward to your assisting me in making the hardest
decision....WHICH ONE?!!!??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
>However I have 2 concerns. Size and Financial. I believe I am too big for
an
RV-4. I am 6'5" and 230 lbs. Any comments here?
6'4" and 250# myself, have been told I won't fit in a four, haven't
actually tried to squeeze in one.
>I know a -8 will fit well, but I am a bit concerned with paying for an
o-360
>and a CS prop. I am a bit concerned that an o-320 with a fixed prop in a
-8
>would be dissapointing at best.
Various RV-ator articles have describe the -8 as having the same drag as
a four, so performance on a o-320 with fixed prop should be the same as a
four of the same weight (as close to the same as performance ever gets
anyway). From reading reports of completed 8's, it seems that a light 8
and a heavy 4 are within 50lbs of each other, plus the 8 has a higher
acro weight limit.
Planning on going with a O-320 and fixed pitch on my 8, but will just
take whatever I find I can afford. Going to start engine shopping once I
start the fuse kit (hopefully this spring).
>Then there is the -6, but I just have this thing for tandem seating. But
could
>it be that the -6 is really my best option at the end of the day?
The -6 is pretty much the same weight as an 8, there are lots of fixed
pitch o-320 -6's out there, and the 6 has higher drag. Only benifit of
the 6 is smaller CG changes with passanger wieght.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Drilling 2nd fuel tank
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD emerg. landing (RESOLUTION?) |
Fellow Listers:
Just a follow up comment on Brian's excellent handling of his in-flight
emergency. At NWA, at the top of our Emergency checklists, in big letters,
and bold type: FLY THE AIRPLANE. DO NOT HURRY.
'nuff said... good job Brian.
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: slider and tilt -more?s |
> 1) I hear a lot of people are putting gas struts on the tilt canopy
> thereby defeating the jettison feature- wouldnt this make it
> illegal
> to fly
> aerobatics?
>
Keith: Van changed from straight hinges to goose-neck hinges and thereby
eliminated any chance you could jetison a tip-up canopy in flight; it won't
open far enough to get the hinges clear of the bulkhead. With or without the
gas struts, IMO the "canopy jettison handle" is nothing more than a
fancy-looking latch for ground service removal of the canopy structure. Some
tip-up builders have opted to save the weight of the spring and handle
weldment and simply reach up under the panel and activate the bell crank by
hand when the canopy needs top come completely off. I would do it this way
if I were doing it over again, but for now I have that sexy yellow and black
striped handle in my panel with the ominous warning placard about not pulling
in flight. It REALLY impresses the passengers.
Having never tried to jettison in flight, I may be wrong, but I continue to
preach that MY canopy cannot be shed in flight, and wouldn't want anyone else
to kid themselves, either.
Bill B
RV-6A 90 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Mueller" <JJM(at)foothill.net> |
Congratulations, I am # 25 on the list and am starting to think the wait may
be the worst part. I am in Auburn CA. and would love to see the kit and
visit if you are open to this please let me know. I would be glad to pay
for lunch or dinner.
Joe Mueller F1 #25
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul & Gerti VanderSchuur <gertivs(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 4:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: F-1
>
> Team Rocket, Inc. has just delivered three F-1 kits to the state of CA,
and
> we have 006. What a wonderful Day!!
>
>
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/15/2000 5:50:52 PM Central Standard Time,
JJM(at)foothill.net writes:
<< Congratulations, I am # 25 on the list and am starting to think the wait
may
be the worst part. I am in Auburn CA. and would love to see the kit and
visit if you are open to this please let me know. I would be glad to pay
for lunch or dinner.
Joe Mueller F1 #25 >>
Well atleast your not in the last since there in the 40's now.
Chris Wilcox
f1 #001
ok so it was the prototype
lol
________________________________________________________________________________
Follow your heart. Sounds like you really want a tandem taildragger, so go
with the -8. You are going to be building it for a long time so it needs to
be what you truly want, not what you rationalize. Seems the only issue with
an O-320/FP in the -8 is the macho factor. You should get comparable
performance to the -4. Just because Van sanctioned the IO-360 for the -8
doesn't mean anything less is sub-standard. Any 150hp RV is a wonderful
machine.
Regarding cost, you just have to have the right mindset. Get a used engine.
Use what's in the kit rather than upgrade to flop tubes, stainless pitot and
Andair fuel valve. Forego the $100/gal primer, electric trim, strobes,
leather, inverted systems, gyros, engine monitoring and all the other
geegaws. I've flown the last 10 years in my Citabria with minimal guages,
comm, loran and xponder. I've had a blast and been all over the country, but
I'd trade it in a heartbeat for a similarly equipped RV. My -6 is going to
be at the other end of the scale, but I'd rather have a minimalist RV than
none at all. Go for it.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (reserved) 90%done, 90% to go
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
>>
>>Hi Gang!
>>
>>With such excellent discussions going on here, I hate to bother with these
following questions from a newbie, but here it goes.....
>>Many thanks, and look forward to your assisting me in making the hardest
decision....WHICH ONE?!!!??
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
BILL VONDANE,
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR 0-340 LYC? DID YOU HAVE IT CUSTOM BUILT? JUST JOKING
BILL.
BB
TACOMA
RV-8 FUSELAGE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
>Any -8's out there flying with O-320's and FP props? Give us some
>performance reports...
I've got some numbers that may help...
As I'm slooooooowly getting more hours on my RV-8A with 0-320 D2A and
Sensenich FP aluminum prop I've seen 175 mph ground speed at 4.5k and 2200
rpm. This really wasn't a speed test, just an observation. I'm
anticipating higher speed when I actually do the speed tests at a more
reasonable altitude and an actual test. At 100 mph I've been able to
climb out at over 1500 fpm. I usually climb out at 120 and 1000 or so fpm
since my CHT starts heading for the redline at higher angles of attack. My
testing is going very slowly. Brian Denk first flew 4 days after my first
flight and has over 40 hours already but he gets to live in NM and I'm
stuck here in the wintery north. By the way, GREAT JOB Brian. I'll post
more info on my testing numbers when I have more available. Oh yea, by the
way.....I really really really love this airplane!!!!!!
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | toggle switch cover |
I an looking for colored boots to put over the toggle on the toggle switches.
I have tried the web, radiohovel, digi-key, -mouser, and a few others. They
have to exist. I want to use them to color code the ele. panel on the Rv-8.
(The switches are the Potter Brumfield that come in the Vans ele. kit.
PLEASE HELP.
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 pp Rudder stiffener bundle?? |
I believe that my rudder stiffener bundle may have been mispacked.
I think I got 6 total strips with 2 of one type and 4 of another, I thought
this was odd (so many identical pieces, I thought I should have had 3 pairs),
but didn't think too much of it. After I cut all of them where they were
clearly marked I noticed I had four of some of the stiffeners and none of
some others. I was able to cut some of the extra ones to make everything but
the "D" stiffeners. All the ones I cut ended up longer than the "D"'s, so I
didn't cut my "D"'s
Has anyone found this, or did I manage to screw up one of the easier parts of
construction??
Is there enough extra in the non prepunched elevator stiffener bundle to
fabricate two "D"'s? Any other Ideas??
Anyone need 2 extra "B"'s ? :)
Thanks,
Greg
BTW: I originally had 4 B's, F's, and H's. And I had no D's, G's, or E's
I cut 2 of the H's to G's and 2 F's to E's.
Unfortunately I Can't stretch the B's to D's :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on wiring radio |
Sherman,
Couldn't get the Nav Audio to work. Broke down and ordered a KN53
and a KI 209A head. The tri-nav C worked OK but couldn't get the radio
to work. Radio's will be here at end of week I hope. Wait till you see my
plane. Doubt if it will fly over 120 knots now. Jim
RV-List message posted by: Pilotrv6a(at)aol.com
>
> Hi Jim!
> Quit putting down Terra Radios. Mine is working fine now.
> Sherman
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | O-340-A1A; was dumb questions |
Here is the type data sheet for the O-340-A1A
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/4d907b6bbf514ccd85256761007c0e66/26b8a32d6046980c8525670e00514b24/$FILE/E-277.pdf
Gary Zilik
>
>
> WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR 0-340 LYC? DID YOU HAVE IT CUSTOM BUILT?
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 02/14/00 |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
ken,
thanks for the info. probably will end up with 3/32" and add the targa strip
too.
take care,
louis
----------
>From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>To: RV-List Digest List
>Subject: RV-List Digest: 02/14/00
>Date: Tue, Feb 15, 2000, 2:57 AM
>
>Louis, went up to the airport today and measured the gap. I could get a
>piece of .063 in easily but not a piece of .075. My gap is pretty uniform
>in size all way around . I don't know what the expansion factor of plexiglas
>is cold vs hot. It is about 25 degrees F. today, but I have not had any
>problems during summer either and it gets over 90 here occassionally. 3/32
>would probably be a good compromise and remember once everything is rivited
>up it is very easy to trim more off if need be.
>
>Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
>Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept. 8,1993
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 02/14/00 |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
sorry listers, this was meant to go direct to ken.
----------
>From: "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 02/14/00
>Date: Tue, Feb 15, 2000, 9:49 PM
>
>ken,
>
>thanks for the info. probably will end up with 3/32" and add the targa strip
>too.
>
>take care,
>louis
>
>----------
>>From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>>To: RV-List Digest List
>>Subject: RV-List Digest: 02/14/00
>>Date: Tue, Feb 15, 2000, 2:57 AM
>>
>
>>Louis, went up to the airport today and measured the gap. I could get a
>>piece of .063 in easily but not a piece of .075. My gap is pretty uniform
>>in size all way around . I don't know what the expansion factor of plexiglas
>>is cold vs hot. It is about 25 degrees F. today, but I have not had any
>>problems during summer either and it gets over 90 here occassionally. 3/32
>>would probably be a good compromise and remember once everything is rivited
>>up it is very easy to trim more off if need be.
>>
>>Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
>>Salmon Arm B.C. First flight Sept. 8,1993
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 02/14/00 |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
charlie and others,
what about using "permatex 14 thread sealant with teflon" ??
is it ok to use this stuff on the fuel system? i was told that it is a
substitute for fuel-lube, which seems to be hard to find these days.
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
>
>>
>
>snipped
>
>> I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the finger
>> screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up and
>> gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
>> first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
>> innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I figured
>> it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
>> AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
>
>Brian,
> Homicide detectives refer to your situation as a "self inflicted gun shoot
>wound"! NEVER use RTV anywhere there is fuel. Gas dissolves the stuff nicely.
>As an auto and motorcycle mechanic, I wish I had a dollar for every time I had
>to repair a fuel system where someone (usually the owner) applied RTV to an old
>fuel system gasket rather than purchase a new gasket.
> Consider yourself lucky.
>Charlie Kuss
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
These are questions that all of us have beat around in one form or another
before making the leap (of faith?). I think you will be pretty big for a -6
unless you plan to fly alone. The cabin width will likely be snug for a guy
your size, let alone with a friend (IMHO) Van's RV-8, N58RV that crashed I
believe had a 175 hp O-320, and its performance was very good. My building
partner and I went with the -8 because we are both over 6 ft (but skinny) and
the -6 was too tight a fit. Go with the -8, the kit is easier to build and
you will be a lot more comfortable in either seat. Andy Johnson, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-340-A1A; was dumb questions |
I saw an O-340 once in an RV Art Chard was building. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 6:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: O-340-A1A; was dumb questions
>
> Here is the type data sheet for the O-340-A1A
>
>
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/4d
907b6bbf514ccd85256761007c0e66/26b8a32d6046980c8525670e00514b24/$FILE/E-277.
pdf
>
>
> Gary Zilik
>
> >
> >
> > WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR 0-340 LYC? DID YOU HAVE IT CUSTOM BUILT?
> >
> > _
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Yesterday had a great day at the airport doing touch and goes (58) Controller
friend of mine Called me to confirm the count, that was in 3.8 hours. I think
I've got the landings down. And nothing has fallen off. Today just flew
around for 2.5 sure is fun. Number 3 cylinder gets a little hot. Goes fast
down wind. And yesterday was my anniversary. Still grinning. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Respirators for AKZO primer |
The last time I talked to Jerry Scott (Chino) he advised STRONGLY that I use
a fresh air system. (He was trying to recover the use of his liver after
painting with AKZO for a number of years. He had always used a quality
respirator.) Check the archives for a simple, inexpensive fresh air system
that you can build in a weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 02/14/00 |
That's good stuff. The Teflon is in powder form and will wash through and
not plug things up.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Louis Cappucci <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 9:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 02/14/00
>
>charlie and others,
>
>what about using "permatex 14 thread sealant with teflon" ??
>
>is it ok to use this stuff on the fuel system? i was told that it is a
>substitute for fuel-lube, which seems to be hard to find these days.
>
>thanks,
>louis cappucci
>rv-6a qb finish kit
>mamaroneck, ny
>
>>
>>>
>>
>>snipped
>>
>>> I had used red rtv as a sealant on the steel threaded nut that the
finger
>>> screen is attached to. This stuff was kinda gooey and may have broken up
and
>>> gone past the finger screen and up into the carb. Problem solved? When I
>>> first took the carb apart when I received the engine to inspect it's
>>> innards, I did not know of any issue with sealant of this type. I
figured
>>> it's a standard automotive gasket sealant, why would gas hurt it? NEVER
>>> AGAIN! Lesson learned? Problem solved? What do you think?
>>
>>Brian,
>> Homicide detectives refer to your situation as a "self inflicted gun
shoot
>>wound"! NEVER use RTV anywhere there is fuel. Gas dissolves the stuff
nicely.
>>As an auto and motorcycle mechanic, I wish I had a dollar for every time I
had
>>to repair a fuel system where someone (usually the owner) applied RTV to
an old
>>fuel system gasket rather than purchase a new gasket.
>> Consider yourself lucky.
>>Charlie Kuss
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | RTV in fuel lines/problems |
Just because someone erroneously used RTV on their fuel system doesn't
positively mean the problem has been solved. When assembling your own fuel
lines be sure that the ends don't cut into the center rubber lining and
create an internal flap which can block fuel flow. I have had in-line fuel
filters shed fibers and create a small plug in the carb screen that was
invisible when wet with fuel, although that screen design requires a huge
amount of particles to block it totally. While you're debugging, check the
mixture screw. I found that despite the spring on it that it can loosen
over time. Kevin -6A 600 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
Hi there,
I'm like you: thinking about building a plane. I started thinking about
it seriously in January. Here are a few thoughts/suggestions; maybe
you've already considered them.
Ask yourself why you want to build a plane, and what you plan on using it
for (your "mission profile", if you like). $50,000 will buy an awful lot
of time in a 172. It'll buy a 172, for that matter.
Although finances are important -- and I really doubt you'll be able to
build an RV for $30,000 -- I think time, and its close partner
dedication, are much more important. Let's say you work a few hours each
evening during the week -- 8 hours total -- and put in a full weekend of
maybe 12 hours. 20 hours per week is 1000 hours per year. So, if you
stop everything else, and spend every single day working on your plane,
you can maybe finish in two years.
At that point you have to honestly ask yourself how dedicated you are.
That is, after the initial enthusiasm wears off, and it's down to the
dirty, wearying, everyday grunt work with few visible signs of progress,
how likely is it that you'll put in 20 hours every week, working every day
and every weekend? Moreover, what will happen to the things you used to
do during the week and on the weekends?
Finally, it seems very important to me to Do Your Homework. There is a
lot of information on the web, including builder websites (and Van's
website as well). There are many other kitplanes available, too. There
are numerous books, and organizations such as EAA, with lots of
information. Van's will send you an info pack, which has useful
information too.
Finally, please don't take this as an insult, but I think if you're asking
the question, "I'm thinking of spending $30,000-$50,000 and a few years
building an RV. Which one should I buy?" you need to do a little more
research and thinking on the issue. Especially when the list FAQ says to
not ask "which RV should I buy!"
Anyways, I'm still thinking about these things. Here's what I've decided
so far: I very much don't need a plane. But there is something very
appealing to me about flying an airplane I built myself. I'd like to do
some cross-country flying, but I expect most of my flying to be more or
less local, and I don't need room for more than two people. I looked at
several kitplanes. I live in northern New Mexico, at high altitude and
where relatively high crosswinds are common, which effectively eliminated
planes like a Kitfox (10-15 kts max xwind) or a canard (very long takeoff
roll at high density altitude). I think I'd rather do riveting, too.
I'm young and single, which means I have time and money, and the
opportunity to build. I haven't decided on the dedication factor yet -- I
think I could stay focused for several years, but I haven't decided how
easily I can give my other hobbies up (the ones that currently take place
on weekends/evenings) -- in particular, I wonder how it will affect
flying. I think I can deal with the people who think I'm insane for
building a plane.
I've recently purchased several books. I also joined the EAA. I've given
myself several months before making any decision, to see if this is, shall
we say, love or infatuation. And sometime I'm going to try and talk
someone in NM into giving me a ride.
So, there are some thoughts from another inexperienced amateur. I guess
I'm posting them to the list because maybe there are some other people,
thinking about building, and maybe the above will be helpful. If not,
sorry!
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N94BD followup thoughts (long) |
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>Just a follow up comment on Brian's excellent handling of his in-flight
>emergency. At NWA, at the top of our Emergency checklists, in big letters,
>and bold type: FLY THE AIRPLANE. DO NOT HURRY.
>
>'nuff said... good job Brian.
>
>Doug Weiler, MN Wing
>
Doug, and all you great RV folks,
THANK YOU for your kind support! I've learned a lot about what NOT to put
in a carburetor in the past couple of days, that's for sure. As for how I
handled the RV8 in "glider mode", well, I owe it to strict procedures that
were drilled into my noggin from my first flight lesson a mere four years
ago. I learned the military way, in the Air Force Aero Club. I flew with
active duty and retired military instructors who were insistent upon strict
compliance with safety procedures. I think my second or third flight, the
CFI pulled the power off on climbout and said, "where are you going to land
it?" Well, I replied something to the effect of, "that field over
there....waaaay over there looks pretty clear". WRONG! "What about the
empty field RIGHT UNDER US AT THIS VERY MOMENT? was his reply.
I learned right there to not assume that you can make it to a really good
looking spot some distance away, with no airspeed or altitude left if
conditions don't go in your favor. What if the wind speed or direction
changes? So, I now believe that the best place to consider for an emergency
landing is the closest point to you at the time, even though it may not be
as good looking as that clearing off in the distance. Power lines are pretty
much invisible until you're headed right for them and by then, it's too
late!
So, by sheer grace of the allmighty, Grants airport was under my left wing.
The approach to the landing was really quite straight forward. Moral of this
story to all of us: learn to work altitude and airspeed to put your RV
EXACTLY where you want it in ALL wind conditions. The winds on Sunday were
gusty, variable and thoroughly unpredictable. I orbited midfield in a
constant speed descent and when at pattern altitude, I turned base sooner
than I would normally with power applied. I still had excess altitude but
that's a GOOD thing. My wife was holding on for dear life while I cranked
it into a slip. Floating down the runway and off into the weeds is NOT good
form and tends to prang airplanes. On short final, that's when the prop
stopped but I had the runway made, and Debbie assuringly reminded me of
that. "There's the runway baby! You made it!".
So, we all owe it to ourselves and our valued passengers, to be thoroughly
competent in dealing with power failures. KNOW your airplane, and plan your
routes to give you the best chance of success if the Lycosaur let's you
down. That straight line GPS course over those scenic, majestic mountains
may look awesome, but Kodak moments seldom make good emergency landing
fields. Are you prepared, both emotionally and tactically, to put it down
RIGHT NOW? Where? Into the tree tops? That river bed? What speed? Flaps now
or after you get there? HMMM?? The more rugged and unfriendly the terrain,
the higher I want to go. Altitude is your friend. Unfortunately for those
of us in the Rocky Mountains, going much higher than the terrain can require
an astronauts rating! Man, it gets COLD up there. We crossed a ridgeline
just before the RV became a sailplane and had to be at 11,000' to do so
comfortably.
I received a most inspiring and reassuring note from Sam Buchanan. He
related the engine failure to having a trusted friend let you down or betray
you. So very true this is. I went flying today. Me and my RV went off to
the practice area to "have a heart to heart talk". We came to terms, upside
down, going fast, going slow, high, low, lots of G's, and no G's. My trust
has not completely returned, but who can be mad at an RV? It's like trying
to stay mad at your new puppy after it chews up your new shoes! I checked
the fuel system, and all is clean and clear. I wouldn't be overly concerned
about the RTV Van's recommends to use around the airbox plate where it mates
to the carb body. It's only an issue when it's submerged in gas all the
time. Don't go into ANTI RTV mode guys, just know it's limitations and
learn from my mistake.
Go do some pattern work this weekend. Get it on downwind then pull the
power. If you normally make power off approaches, then you should be well
versed. If you like to carry power all the way down, you may be in for
quite a surprise. I have to admit I normally use power. I'm now changing my
procedures but will stay competent and SAFE in the use of both techniques.
Fly safe,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: toggle switch cover |
In a message dated 2/15/00 6:27:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, ERSF2B(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I am looking for colored boots to put over the toggle on the toggle
switches.
I have tried the web, radiohovel, digi-key, -mouser, and a few others. They
have to exist. I want to use them to color code the ele. panel on the Rv-8.
(The switches are the Potter Brumfield that come in the Vans ele. kit. >>
The only ones I know of that fit the large toggle (bat) switches are
extensions made by Cole Hersee. There are only six different colors listed
in my catalog (red, yel, blk, grn, blu and wht). Check with your local
trucker's store or call Cole Hersee direct at 617-268-2100. I'll keep
looking in my catalogs.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: slider and tilt -more?s |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
> Keith: Van changed from straight hinges to goose-neck hinges and thereby
> eliminated any chance you could jetison a tip-up canopy in flight; it won't
> open far enough to get the hinges clear of the bulkhead.
Are you sure???? I was under the impression (after reading the manual
and Will Cretsinger's notes) that the gooseneck hinges are jettisonable.
> With or without the
> gas struts, IMO the "canopy jettison handle" is nothing more than a
> fancy-looking latch for ground service removal of the canopy structure.
Or perhaps to release the canopy after you've stopped sliding along on
the canopy?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
> Harbour Freight.com....seels a neat little do all Emegency Hammer
> W/mounting bracket for $9.99.
> Item 40610-0JFA.
> Have a Great Day!
> Denny Harjehausen
> RV-6, Lebanon, OR
Don't waste your $9.99 on the Life Hammer. I ordered one and calling it
a toy would be overly kind. It is only about six inches long and weighs
just a few ounces. I don't think it would be very effective at breaking
a plastic canopy.
I have designated the passenger stick as the breakout tool in my RV-6. I
intend to add a steel slug to the bottom end of it to assist the egress
process.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | A How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
Would you like to see a way to convert an ATC Fuse Block with Push On Tabs,
to use RINGS? AAMR/A
irCore Fuse Block With Rings Or
http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page101.html
Best regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
Best regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
>However I have 2 concerns. Size and Financial. I believe I am too big for
>an RV-4. I am 6'5" and 230 lbs. Any comments here?
I'm just getting to the point on my RV-4 fuse where I can sit in the seat
and try it on for size. I'm an average 5-10 180# frame and its more than
big enough for me. I attended an RV forum in Oswego NY in Sept. and saw a
nice RV-4 (N17PO) with a very large framed pilot. I took a look in the
cockpit to see how he fit and noticed a very thin seat back and a piece of
carpet for a seat. In my guess he was 6-4 and 250#. I'd try one on to see
how you fit,you can make small mods to help out the leg room. Don't exclude
the 4 too soon, but make sure you build something you can sit in for a few
hours without cramping-up.
>I know a -8 will fit well, but I am a bit concerned with paying for an
>o-360 and a CS prop. I am a bit concerned that an o-320 with a fixed prop
>in a -8 would be dissapointing at best.
>
>Then there is the -6, but I just have this thing for tandem seating. But
>could it be that the -6 is really my best option at the end of the day?
I don't like side by side seating either. IMHO there is more room in a
tandem since you are not competing for shoulder space.
>I know there are a few RV'ers around with a $150,000 :-) archangle efis, 3
>axis autopilot, TSIO lyc equiped RV flying around, but is it realistically
>possible to construct the aircraft at a reasonable cost? (ie less than
>$30,000)
>
>Are there any of you that would like to brag to me not about how much you
>have invested in to your aircraft, but how successfull you were in cost
>control?
Sure!
My method for cost control is simply luck. Although its not always on my
side.
I waited for the right deal to come along. Trade a plane issues web ads
prior to printed. I watched the ads religiously and waited. I was actually
waiting for a good restoration project not an RV since I had decided an RV
would be too much money, although I liked the idea of building one. After
looking at a few bad deals on tripacers I stumbled on an ad for a full RV-4
kit with 320-e2d core, oil cooler, steel jigs, metal prop and assorted
instruments. I noticed the price seemed low at $12500 so checked up on the
kit. After a brief phone call with the owner and one to a good friend who
knew more about used kit prices I decided to take the risk and buy.
I knew I took a risk on the engine and the prop, some of the instruments
were tagged and others that weren't, field tested good. The jigs were good
and I figured could be sold later to offset other costs.
What I got in the end was -
-A good start on an engine - $7500 invested so far and I expect $4000 more
before the rebuild is complete.
-a bad prop, unusable by anyone according to Sensenich.
-about $700 worth of instruments, ROC, T&B, AS, Alt, and a fuel meter (astro
FT-2) of unknown value. Probably worthless. I won't use it.
-good oil cooler
-nice set of Wing and Fuse jigs made of 4" sq. steel tube.
-a Full rv-4 kit from 1989 minus the cowl and a few bits and pieces
My cost so far (est=estimate, not yet purchased)
$12500 for that stuff
$11500 for complete overhaul with new cylinders, mags, carb on the 320
$1200 (est)for prop and installation hardware (wood)
$500 (est)for additional engine instruments
$2000 (est)for radios (1 com, and transponder)
$2000 (est) for additional engine installation parts (exhaust, mounts etc.)
$800 (est) for cowl
$???? paint
$???? final inspection and insurance costs
The total will be in the $30 - $35K range and I hope to get a few bucks back
from the jigs to finance a nice handheld GPS and some gas money. :)
All in all, I could have done better if I had more luck with some of the
parts in the original kit purchase but I'm still happy I bought it!
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 canopy almost done
Engine being rebuilt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem..." (Feb 15, 10:19am)
| Subject: | Re: Web Subscription Page Operation for Internet Explorer Restored... |
Dear Listers,
I have rewritten the web page and CGI code for processing List
Subscription Requests to now be more compatible with command line
limitations of Microsoft's Internet Explorer and some very
old versions of Netscape. The page seems to be working fine
now on whatever browser I try. Please feel free to resume
your normal List Subscription habits.
The URL is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
>--------------
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's
>Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at
>http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem
>*ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are
>*not* affected by the issue. Users of Internet Explorer should
>use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be
>developed.
>
>IMPORTANT:
>
>If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the
>following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of
>the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly
>received and you should resubmit the request using the Netscape
>Browser, or wait until a solution for the problem with Internet Explorer
>is completed. The Lists affected by the Internet Explorer issue are:
>
> RVCanada-List
> RVEurope-List
> Sailplane-List
> Seaplane-List
> Skymaster-List
> SmithMini-List
> Sonerai-List
> Tailwind-List
> Ultralight-List
> Warbird-List
> Yak-List
> Zenith-List
>
>
>Please note that the Netscape Browser *IS NOT* affected by this problem
>and all lists can be subscribed to and unsubscribed from without a
>problem.
>
>I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution
>to this problem.
>
>Sorry for the inconvenience,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Admin.
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Collins <collins(at)pali.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8(A) Wing Removal Question |
Hi everyone,
I have been wrestling with the choice of an aircraft to
build and I am currently investigating the RV-8 or RV-8A.
A big constraint I have here in Silicon Valley is very
expensive hangers. I have investigated folding/removable
wings for trailering and found the choices limiting.
My next choice would be to use a tiedown (also expensive,
but less so). The problem with this option is that I
would have no place to do major work on the plane.
My question is, for the RV-8 or RV-8A, how time consuming
would it be to remove the wings if I need to take it
home? Would it be different for the -8 or the -8A?
The RV-8(A) has a true centersection. Does that mean that
it will stand on its gear while removing the wings? I
understand the RV-6A has the gear bolted to the wing spars,
making the process messy.
Thanks
Bob Collins
Sunnyvale CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8(A) Wing Removal Question |
I bought the RV8 for many of the reasons you are expressing. If the Wings
need to be removed, it's not an easy or recommended procedure procedure
either way, but can be done.
I'm not sure that it is practical however, since the re-alignment
requirements would require a secure place at the airport to do it.
RV8
JD
Do no archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Nutplates on Center Pass Through |
Len:
>You wrote:
> The plans call for putting in the nutplates on the center pass through but
> seem to be pretty vague as to where exactly they go. I am afraid to drill
> holes in the pass through spars without mating up the other part.
>
> Did you guys install the nutplates during initial pass through
construction
> or did you wait until later in fuselage construction?
----------------------
You won't be able to install these nutplates later...you won't have access
to the inside of the spar carry-through structure when it's time to mate to
the parts being screwed to that structure.
Check the drawings carefully and you should find diminsions for locating
these nutplates.
George
#80006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack K. Holley" <jkholley(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 8-8A Builders in Chicago Area? |
Are there any RV8/8A builders in the Chicago area who would be willing to
show off their project?
I'm getting ready to get started and would like to see an 8 project before I
make the final decision on the 8A vs. 6A project.
You can reply directly at jkholley(at)earthlink.net
Thanks!
Jack Holley
jkholley(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 8-8A Builders in Chicago Area? |
In a message dated 2/16/2000 8:02:51 AM Central Standard Time,
jkholley(at)earthlink.net writes:
Are there any RV8/8A builders in the Chicago area who would be willing to
show off their project?
I'm getting ready to get started and would like to see an 8 project before I
make the final decision on the 8A vs. 6A project.
You can reply directly at jkholley(at)earthlink.net
Thanks!
Jack Holley
jkholley(at)earthlink.net
>>
if you come up to oshkosh wi i will show of my f1 rocket
chris wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
> AKZO primer users, are you using a fresh air system like the
> HobbyAire system, or is it OK to just use a high-quality respirator?
> If you can't smell anything bad does that mean you aren't breathing
> anything toxic or is some of the bad stuff odorless?
I use a good respirator. I can't smell the AKZO at all and that's good
enough for me since AKZO is strong smell'n stuff!
NOT SO! Your respirator will remove only the substances listed on the side
of the cartridge. Various cartridges are good for dusts, others are meant
for acids, etc. Typical painting respirator cartridges are designed to
remove organic vapors. Organic vapors would typically be the solvents in
the paint. Those cartridges won't get all, if any, of the isocyanates used
in two part epoxy paints. Isocyanates are also in the hardeners used for
enamel paints. Isocyanates are cumulative poisons and are odorless. You
should use a HobbyAir type forced air system to paint something as big as a
plane. Your health may be at stake.
Also, just because you can't smell anything doesn't mean you're safe. Your
nose will quickly be overwhelmed by even very strong odors and will ignore
them after a few minutes. If you don't believe it then explain to me how
anyone can smoke cigarettes, be a hog farmer, not smell their own body odor
or flatulence, or work in a chemical plant or refinery! The best example is
an old, blue haired, lard butt woman with 3 gallons of cheap perfume...she
thinks she smells good while those around are throwing up from the stench.
It's because her nose is acclimated to the odor. Better not trust your
nose.
Of course you're also not supposed to get the nasty epoxy paints on your
skin either....and, of course, never use lacquer thinner to clean your hands
off. Well, you get the picture. Do what you can to reduce your exposure
and you'll live longer.
Vince in Indiana
(Yes, I am guilty of not doing what I preach. But I did buy a Hobby Air, so
I'm trying harder now. BTW, I bought it because the fumes coming THROUGH my
respirator were making my head throb!!! Not good!)
17 years in the chemical industry...still learning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: respirator use |
I could have used one of those outside air source respirators yesterday.
Some woman sent me a Valentine card soaked in Chanel #5 perfume. I could
smell it coming u the driveway. That stuff makes me wretch but 2 stroke
castor is heavenly (in small doses, from a distance,)
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8(A) Wing Removal Question |
>A big constraint I have here in Silicon Valley is very expensive hangers.
Where did you find a hangar in Silicon Valley?? There were some up in San
Carlos, new, for $695 a month but they are all taken already. I heard they
stopped putting people on the Reid Hillview waiting list as dying is the
only way the list shortens.
Forget removing wings. I was once trying to get further up in a canyon in
the Cascade mountains in Washington. I got my truck up thru a dry wash /
log road far enough to come to a bunch of horse packers. I asked an old
guy if I could get thru. He said I could. (Spit tobaccy chaw) If I would
just rent a few of his mules I could take the truck apart and pack it
over. I'd druther do that than R & R wings on a 6a. It would be faster
for you to keep your RV in Nevada and drive back and forth!
I have a tie down for my Debonair at SJC - $121 a month. They are less at
RHV. Build as far as you can at home then move to SCK, One hour and a
quarter from Santa Clara. Three months there would be enough if carefully
planned and you are retired. Then you can fly off a first rate airport
(SCK) in nice flat country with a very long runway. Hangars for $110 and up.
Come visit mine someday. K3 - call first 408.230.0891
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LONG Two Piece Wheel Pants |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers:
I first flew my RV-6 with one-piece wheel pants, but had to change to
two-piece pants because of an interference problem. That gave me an
opportunity to evaluate the speed difference of the two styles.
These tests were run by reading TAS off my RMI Microencoder. Before the
first set of tests I calibrated this instrument at 6,000 feet by
comparing the indication to a two way (upwind and downwind) GPS
groundspeed check and found no discernable error.
For my tests yesterday under somewhat bumpy conditions I again checked it
at 6,000 feet and found the Microencoder reading, perhaps, 1 knot fast.
I did another check at 12,500 and the Microencoder seemed to be reading
about 3 knots fast, perhaps because I was running some cabin heat that
may have caused the temperature sensor, which is inside the air vent on
the left side, to see too high a temperature.
The engine instrumentation is Vision Microsystems VM1000. I have
previously written that the MP on this set-up reads in minimum increments
of .3 inches. That is the smallest change I have observed when I moved
the throttle and was watching it, but I see in my data there are smaller
increments than that, so I'm not sure what the minimum increment is.
Vision's advertising seems to say .1 inch.
My set-up is RV-6 with a box stock Aerosport Power O-360A1A with a
carburetor and fixed pitch Sensenich 72FM8 prop pitched at 83 inches.
The gear leg fairings are Van's fiberglass. Everything is completely
stock.
For the tests yesterday, my takeoff weight was about 1400 pounds. Since
the first tests the airplane has been painted. That and the different
wheel pants are the only changes since the first tests. Altimeter
setting yesterday was 29.93, I reset to 29.92. MP reading on the ground
at 3,270 feet was 26.6 prior to engine start. ASOS temperature was 26C
and my Microencoder read 78F (the same within 1 degree). I tried to keep
the engine leaned to best power.
I thought yesterday would be a good test day, after work. There were no
weather systems nearby and there was very little wind, even at altitude
(about 10 knots), but it turned out to be choppy at all altitudes. The
90F high yesterday may have had something to do with that, but I did not
take off until about sunset.
Flying these kinds of tests is difficult at best, and very difficult,
especially with a fixed pitch prop, when it is not completely smooth. It
is like balancing on the head of a pin. The slightest disturbance either
lugs the engine down, or over speeds it, which causes a big speed change
(easily 5 knots) and it takes a lot of small adjustments and patience for
things to stabilize again. Yesterday there were times that there were
obvious up and down drafts. I just tried to get the data between those.
One reason my data is a bit odd, is that the prop is pitched such that I
am never using full throttle, except for one check at 8,500, because full
throttle runs the engine rpm over readline at all altitudes that I have
flown at. Accordingly, my procedure is to run the engine at 2700 RPM.
Things seems to offset, such that my TAS at that RPM is essentially the
same at all normal cruising altitudes. Weird!
Here's what I got. Fixed pitch font is required for the columns to line
up.
6/11/99
Pres Alt Temp F MP RPM TAS(KTS) %Pwr
6000 81 22.0 2700 171 75
7000 80 21.7 2700 171 75
8000 76 21.0 2700 172 73
8500 71 20.5 2700 171 71
9500 67 20.3 2700 171 71
10500 62 19.3 2700 171 68
11500 56 18.6 2700 172 65
12500 51 18.1 2700 171 64
13500 47 18.1 2700 170 65
14500 42 17.4 2700 170 63
15500 37 16.7 2700 171 60
2/15/00
Pres Alt Temp F MP RPM TAS(KTS) %Pwr
6500 73 21.7 2700 175 75
7500 71 21.3 2700 175 74
8500 64 20.8 2700 174 73
8500 62 21.8 2780 181 78 (Full Throttle)
9500 58 20.0 2700 176 70
10500 53 19.6 2700 175 70
11500 47 18.9 2700 173 67
12500 42 18.2 2700 174 65
I sure don't understand everything that is going on here, and the
absolute numbers are somewhat suspect, but I am confident there is a
significant speed difference in the two different style wheel pants. The
apparent 3 or 4 knot difference is about what I thought it would be from
general flying.
I don't think anyone would want to go around all the time at 2700 RPM,
but the numbers are impressive to me and I think they show a good fixed
pitch prop is a very viable choice, and a slight underpitch may be a good
thing.
It is my practice to fly, normally, at around 165 kts TAS. With my
present pants that is usually around 2550 RPM, which is real comfortable
for me. I could fly this same cruise speed with no pants at all, but it
was kind of a struggle, and fuel consumption was at least .5 GPH higher
(9.0 vs 8.5).
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LONG Two Piece Wheel Pants |
Larry,
Thanks for taking the time to post some "real world" data. I appreciate it.
I'll leave it to the experts to decipher for me. Thanks again.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting - down to two pieces"
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 11:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: LONG Two Piece Wheel Pants
>
>Listers:
>
>I first flew my RV-6 with one-piece wheel pants, but had to change to
>two-piece pants because of an interference problem. That gave me an
>opportunity to evaluate the speed difference of the two styles.
>
>These tests were run by reading TAS off my RMI Microencoder. Before the
>first set of tests I calibrated this instrument at 6,000 feet by
>comparing the indication to a two way (upwind and downwind) GPS
>groundspeed check and found no discernable error.
>
>For my tests yesterday under somewhat bumpy conditions I again checked it
>at 6,000 feet and found the Microencoder reading, perhaps, 1 knot fast.
>I did another check at 12,500 and the Microencoder seemed to be reading
>about 3 knots fast, perhaps because I was running some cabin heat that
>may have caused the temperature sensor, which is inside the air vent on
>the left side, to see too high a temperature.
>
>The engine instrumentation is Vision Microsystems VM1000. I have
>previously written that the MP on this set-up reads in minimum increments
>of .3 inches. That is the smallest change I have observed when I moved
>the throttle and was watching it, but I see in my data there are smaller
>increments than that, so I'm not sure what the minimum increment is.
>Vision's advertising seems to say .1 inch.
>
>My set-up is RV-6 with a box stock Aerosport Power O-360A1A with a
>carburetor and fixed pitch Sensenich 72FM8 prop pitched at 83 inches.
>The gear leg fairings are Van's fiberglass. Everything is completely
>stock.
>
>For the tests yesterday, my takeoff weight was about 1400 pounds. Since
>the first tests the airplane has been painted. That and the different
>wheel pants are the only changes since the first tests. Altimeter
>setting yesterday was 29.93, I reset to 29.92. MP reading on the ground
>at 3,270 feet was 26.6 prior to engine start. ASOS temperature was 26C
>and my Microencoder read 78F (the same within 1 degree). I tried to keep
>the engine leaned to best power.
>
>I thought yesterday would be a good test day, after work. There were no
>weather systems nearby and there was very little wind, even at altitude
>(about 10 knots), but it turned out to be choppy at all altitudes. The
>90F high yesterday may have had something to do with that, but I did not
>take off until about sunset.
>
>Flying these kinds of tests is difficult at best, and very difficult,
>especially with a fixed pitch prop, when it is not completely smooth. It
>is like balancing on the head of a pin. The slightest disturbance either
>lugs the engine down, or over speeds it, which causes a big speed change
>(easily 5 knots) and it takes a lot of small adjustments and patience for
>things to stabilize again. Yesterday there were times that there were
>obvious up and down drafts. I just tried to get the data between those.
>
>One reason my data is a bit odd, is that the prop is pitched such that I
>am never using full throttle, except for one check at 8,500, because full
>throttle runs the engine rpm over readline at all altitudes that I have
>flown at. Accordingly, my procedure is to run the engine at 2700 RPM.
>Things seems to offset, such that my TAS at that RPM is essentially the
>same at all normal cruising altitudes. Weird!
>
>Here's what I got. Fixed pitch font is required for the columns to line
>up.
>
>
>6/11/99
>
>Pres Alt Temp F MP RPM TAS(KTS) %Pwr
> 6000 81 22.0 2700 171 75
> 7000 80 21.7 2700 171 75
> 8000 76 21.0 2700 172 73
> 8500 71 20.5 2700 171 71
> 9500 67 20.3 2700 171 71
> 10500 62 19.3 2700 171 68
> 11500 56 18.6 2700 172 65
> 12500 51 18.1 2700 171 64
> 13500 47 18.1 2700 170 65
> 14500 42 17.4 2700 170 63
> 15500 37 16.7 2700 171 60
>
>2/15/00
>Pres Alt Temp F MP RPM TAS(KTS) %Pwr
> 6500 73 21.7 2700 175 75
> 7500 71 21.3 2700 175 74
> 8500 64 20.8 2700 174 73
> 8500 62 21.8 2780 181 78 (Full Throttle)
> 9500 58 20.0 2700 176 70
> 10500 53 19.6 2700 175 70
> 11500 47 18.9 2700 173 67
> 12500 42 18.2 2700 174 65
>
>I sure don't understand everything that is going on here, and the
>absolute numbers are somewhat suspect, but I am confident there is a
>significant speed difference in the two different style wheel pants. The
>apparent 3 or 4 knot difference is about what I thought it would be from
>general flying.
>
>I don't think anyone would want to go around all the time at 2700 RPM,
>but the numbers are impressive to me and I think they show a good fixed
>pitch prop is a very viable choice, and a slight underpitch may be a good
>thing.
>
>It is my practice to fly, normally, at around 165 kts TAS. With my
>present pants that is usually around 2550 RPM, which is real comfortable
>for me. I could fly this same cruise speed with no pants at all, but it
>was kind of a struggle, and fuel consumption was at least .5 GPH higher
>(9.0 vs 8.5).
>
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP
>http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Pressure |
Hi Denny:
I have a installation drawing, rear view for the 0320 that gives all the
info for all the connections. If you can give me a fax number would be happy
to send it to you. This drawing is part of the 0320 operator's manual. If
you don't have one they are available from Lycoming.
Eustace
-----Original Message-----
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 11:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Pressure
>
>Anyone familar with the O-320-A3A? I got the pressure switch from
>AeroElectric for low pressure/master on light. The switch looks like a -6
>male thread. On the accessory case to the right of the prop govenor pad is
>hex plug that looks like a -6 female. Is this in the oil pressure side of
>the oil pump? Could that hole be used for this type of switch?
>
>Thanks!
>Have a great day!
>Denny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Tilt up canopy frame |
This message is aimed at the builders who have completed their tip up canopy
frame on a -6/-6A.....
I'm trying to get the fit on the forward portion of the tip up frame with
the goose neck
hinges (wd-616). In order for the goose neck hinge holes to be barely below
the webs
of the sub panel bulkheads, and the rear of the frame to be in the same
plane as the forward
skin, the rear of the wd616 is approx 5/8" above the longeron, with the
forward end sitting on top of the longeron. I've checked the archives and
have
seen this problem mentioned, but no real fix.
Is this a normal situation?? Any ideas?
Sam B, Paul B.............???
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Re: Web Subscription Page Operation for Internet |
Explorer Restored...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
>
>
>Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>> Harbour Freight.com....seels a neat little do all Emegency Hammer
>> W/mounting bracket for $9.99.
(SNIP)
(SNIP)
>Don't waste your $9.99 on the Life Hammer. I ordered one and calling it
>a toy would be overly kind. It is only about six inches long and weighs
>just a few ounces. I don't think it would be very effective at breaking
>a plastic canopy.
(SNIP)
Sorry listners, A fellow builder locally bought one and told our group
what a grest little item it was. I will personally check from now on
before post.
I hope I didn't mislead anyone.
Thanks Sam, I'll take your word on it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stefan King <seking(at)xoommail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dumb questions |
Steve Judd wrote:
>
> Finally, it seems very important to me to Do Your Homework. There is a
> lot of information on the web, including builder websites (and Van's
> website as well). There are many other kitplanes available, too. There
> are numerous books, and organizations such as EAA, with lots of
> information. Van's will send you an info pack, which has useful
> information too.
>
I'd also suggest that you find someone in your local area that is building
one of these RV-x's. Give Van's a call and they will send you the builder's
list for your state. That way you can visit a working project and maybe help
them a little. I was driving 85 miles one-way on several weekends to help a
guy do some of his final tasks. Even at 'the end' of his project, when he
was really trying to get done and flying, he took the time to show me his
project, show me how to use a rivet gun and squeezer, etc. But, more
importantly, he was actually helping ME with the questions like,
"Can I really do this?" (yes, you can!)
"What's the difference between back-riveting and bucking rivets?"
"How much time from your 'regular' life does this REALLY require?" (Lots)
"Why are you using using XYZ method of corrorsion protection?" (Don't get a
primer war started!)
And all of those really (what you and I call), 'dumb' questions.
I think you'll find there are a lot of people out there who are more than
willing to help you make a well-informed decision.
Good Luck,
Stefan
RV-6 (building on hold at the moment, I'm taking more flying lessons!)
Sanford, FL
PS: Thanks to Rick Caldwell, Charlie Kuss, and Jim Sears for helping me with
the 'dumb' questions!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >Denny Harjehausen wrote:
> >
> >> Harbour Freight.com....seels a neat little do all Emegency Hammer
> >> W/mounting bracket for $9.99.
> (SNIP)
>
> (SNIP)
> >Don't waste your $9.99 on the Life Hammer. I ordered one and calling it
> >a toy would be overly kind. It is only about six inches long and weighs
> >just a few ounces. I don't think it would be very effective at breaking
> >a plastic canopy.
> (SNIP)
>
> Sorry listners, A fellow builder locally bought one and told our group
> what a grest little item it was. I will personally check from now on
> before post.
>
> I hope I didn't mislead anyone.
>
> Thanks Sam, I'll take your word on it!
Denny, I probably need to clarify my statement. The Life Hammer will
probably work great for its intended purpose of shattering a car window.
I have heard that an automatic punch like we use on our projects will
bust the living daylights out of auto glass. However, breaking a plastic
canopy is another matter. I think we will need something more massive to
break out the flexible plexi.
The hammer may very well be a good item to carry in the car. I just
didn't think it was robust enough for breaking out of an RV.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
>
> Denny Harjehausen wrote:
> > Harbour Freight.com....seels a neat little do all Emegency
Hammer
> > W/mounting bracket for $9.99.
> >
> Don't waste your $9.99 on the Life Hammer. I ordered one and calling it
> a toy would be overly kind. It is only about six inches long and weighs
> just a few ounces. I don't think it would be very effective at breaking
> a plastic canopy.
IMHO I think that a "hammer approach" may not work very well. With the
weight of the plane compressing the canopy I think (who knows??) that an
impact tool will do a poor job of smashing the canopy for egressing - it's
not glass.
I have seen a tool that I think (here I go again??) will work - by SLICING
through the canopy. It is a special type of survival knife. Folded it's
less than 4" long and it is all stainless - including the handle.
Indestructable, small and light! The blade is "sort of" triangular. It's
width is very thick at the heal and tapers to a very sharp point. The blade
is slightly curved with a wavy (not cerated) cutting edge. A key point is
that there is a hole about the size of a quarter at the heal of the blade -
for inserting your forefinger!!!. Regardless of oil, fuel or blood this
thing would never slip in your hand. You could make hard jabbing blows to
penetrate and slice through plexi, aluminum or even thin sheet steel. It is
designed for rough survival chores and is not practical as a regular knife.
Unless a better solution comes along (or I'm missing something here) I will
store this type of knife with the blade open in a permanent sheath beween
the seats. It will be a safety item on my preflight so that it will be there
if I ever land with the oily side up.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Empenage EAA: #430137
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email: ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Knight Upholstery New Lower Prices |
Ray;
I used Becky Orndorff in Dallas and she made me very
nice seat covers for my -4 for a reasonable price.
Cleveland Tool in Iowa also has nice interiors. I
didn't use any other upolstery in the airplane ala'
military and weight.
Rob Ray
--- GRENIER(at)aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: GRENIER(at)aol.com
>
> Sam, I am just about ready to start thinking about
> upholstery for my 4. Can
> you please send me prices and perhaps a picture.
> Thanks, Ray Grenier, 22
> Dublin Ave, Nashua, NH 03063
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | remove from e-mail list |
please remove me from your e-mail list immediately. thank you asb52(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt up canopy frame |
Mine was not quite 5/8" too high if I recall, but what I did was grind that
portion down to where it was below the skin and would not contact. There
was sufficient material to take away, and leave enough there to provide
ample support. Another area you can lower that is where that piece rivets
to the channel of the frame. Just cut off some of the flat piece that
contacts the bottom edge of that channel, and shift the hole gooseneck hinge
down.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 10:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tilt up canopy frame
>
> This message is aimed at the builders who have completed their tip up
canopy
> frame on a -6/-6A.....
>
> I'm trying to get the fit on the forward portion of the tip up frame with
> the goose neck
> hinges (wd-616). In order for the goose neck hinge holes to be barely
below
> the webs
> of the sub panel bulkheads, and the rear of the frame to be in the same
> plane as the forward
> skin, the rear of the wd616 is approx 5/8" above the longeron, with the
> forward end sitting on top of the longeron. I've checked the archives and
> have
> seen this problem mentioned, but no real fix.
> Is this a normal situation?? Any ideas?
> Sam B, Paul B.............???
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt up canopy frame |
Thanks Paul,
I know we spoke on this a few months ago, and I'm back struggling with it
again!
Good ideas here, thanks
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tilt up canopy frame
Mine was not quite 5/8" too high if I recall, but what I did was grind that
portion down to where it was below the skin and would not contact. There
was sufficient material to take away, and leave enough there to provide
ample support. Another area you can lower that is where that piece rivets
to the channel of the frame. Just cut off some of the flat piece that
contacts the bottom edge of that channel, and shift the hole gooseneck hinge
down.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 10:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tilt up canopy frame
>
> This message is aimed at the builders who have completed their tip up
canopy
> frame on a -6/-6A.....
>
> I'm trying to get the fit on the forward portion of the tip up frame with
> the goose neck
> hinges (wd-616). In order for the goose neck hinge holes to be barely
below
> the webs
> of the sub panel bulkheads, and the rear of the frame to be in the same
> plane as the forward
> skin, the rear of the wd616 is approx 5/8" above the longeron, with the
> forward end sitting on top of the longeron. I've checked the archives and
> have
> seen this problem mentioned, but no real fix.
> Is this a normal situation?? Any ideas?
> Sam B, Paul B.............???
>
> Ed Cole
> RV6A Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Strandjord" <emstrand(at)isd.net> |
| Subject: | Tip-up or slider..... Getting out after a crash. |
When I finish my -8, I plan to carry a 1/4 inch drill bit with me at all
times. From what I hear and have read on this list, the canopy with
instantly split in two whenever a drill bit gets near it! :-)
To fulfill my obligation to contribute something useful when posting an
off-topic
message, here is a good tip.
The cheap laser pointers make great alignment tools. Most have a flat side.
(glue it to a small block or sand a flat edge on it if not) (the edge
doesn't have to be perfectly parallel to the beam since you will make a
RELATIVE measurement to a fixed line in space. -- I calibrated mine, and now
can make ABSOLUTE measurements.)
I used one to align my HS810 and HS814 to the front spar
Here is how I did it.
1. First, another handy tip....
Make a block of wood exactly 1.5 inches across (about 6x1.5x.5) this will
keep the HS814 and HS810 (61x for you -6 guys) parallel. Now they will move
as a perfectly aligned unit removing 1 variable from the tricky alignment
process.
(A 1 inch angle, plus 1.5 inch block, plus 3/4 inch angle = 3.25 inches, the
desired
thickness of the assembly)
2. After marking the center (left to right) of the HS81x virtual assembly,
hold the laser pointer horizontally on one of the vertical angles of the
HS81x virtual assembly.
Clamp the assembly in place with enough pressure to allow controlled
movement. Point the dot at the vertical post of the tail jig.
3. Note the position of the red dot on the jig. (vertical position is not
important, just the distance from the centerline you drew months ago.)
4. Rotate the pointer around its axis to point to the other side. note the
distance from the jig center line. Adjust the dot to split the difference.
go back and forth until they are the same.
The reason for doing this is to get a measurement over a long distance (1/2
the width of the HS) rather than trying to measure with a ruler (like George
O does). Even a 1/32 error over the 8 inch arm of the HS810 makes for a BIG
miss-alignment of the HS later. Getting the HS814 on straight will make
your HS site on the end of the fuselage without mismatched shims later....
assuming the fuselage is straight too :-) !
I know this will only help the new guys, but I was one a month ago!
Eric M. Strandjord
N586RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: respirator use |
I have the MSDS for Akzo and there are no isocynates listed in either
the converter or the primer. My understanding is that isocyanates are
found primarily in polyurethane paints. The real nasty stuff in Akzo is
all the MEK, xylene, etc. If I'm missing something here, someone please
tell me. I've only used Akzo twice so far and love it. Yes, you have
to waer gloves and eye protection...the respirator is only one step.
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Wings Jigged
----- Original Message -----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 9:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: respirator use
>
>
> > AKZO primer users, are you using a fresh air system like the
> > HobbyAire system, or is it OK to just use a high-quality respirator?
> > If you can't smell anything bad does that mean you aren't breathing
> > anything toxic or is some of the bad stuff odorless?
>
> I use a good respirator. I can't smell the AKZO at all and that's
good
> enough for me since AKZO is strong smell'n stuff!
>
> NOT SO! Your respirator will remove only the substances listed on the
side
> of the cartridge. Various cartridges are good for dusts, others are
meant
> for acids, etc. Typical painting respirator cartridges are designed
to
> remove organic vapors. Organic vapors would typically be the solvents
in
> the paint. Those cartridges won't get all, if any, of the isocyanates
used
> in two part epoxy paints. Isocyanates are also in the hardeners used
for
> enamel paints. Isocyanates are cumulative poisons and are odorless.
You
> should use a HobbyAir type forced air system to paint something as big
as a
> plane. Your health may be at stake.
>
> Also, just because you can't smell anything doesn't mean you're safe.
Your
> nose will quickly be overwhelmed by even very strong odors and will
ignore
> them after a few minutes. If you don't believe it then explain to me
how
> anyone can smoke cigarettes, be a hog farmer, not smell their own body
odor
> or flatulence, or work in a chemical plant or refinery! The best
example is
> an old, blue haired, lard butt woman with 3 gallons of cheap
perfume...she
> thinks she smells good while those around are throwing up from the
stench.
> It's because her nose is acclimated to the odor. Better not trust
your
> nose.
>
> Of course you're also not supposed to get the nasty epoxy paints on
your
> skin either....and, of course, never use lacquer thinner to clean your
hands
> off. Well, you get the picture. Do what you can to reduce your
exposure
> and you'll live longer.
>
> Vince in Indiana
>
> (Yes, I am guilty of not doing what I preach. But I did buy a Hobby
Air, so
> I'm trying harder now. BTW, I bought it because the fumes coming
THROUGH my
> respirator were making my head throb!!! Not good!)
>
> 17 years in the chemical industry...still learning
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ernest Kells <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 2:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: tipup or slider, getting out
>
>>
>> Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>> > Harbour Freight.com....seels a neat little do all Emegency
>Hammer
>> > W/mounting bracket for $9.99.
>> >
>> Don't waste your $9.99 on the Life Hammer. I ordered one and calling it
>> a toy would be overly kind. It is only about six inches long and weighs
>> just a few ounces. I don't think it would be very effective at breaking
>> a plastic canopy.
>
>IMHO I think that a "hammer approach" may not work very well. With the
>weight of the plane compressing the canopy I think (who knows??) that an
>impact tool will do a poor job of smashing the canopy for egressing - it's
>not glass.
>
>I have seen a tool that I think (here I go again??) will work - by SLICING
>through the canopy. It is a special type of survival knife. Folded it's
>less than 4" long and it is all stainless - including the handle.
>Indestructable, small and light! The blade is "sort of" triangular. It's
>width is very thick at the heal and tapers to a very sharp point. The blade
>is slightly curved with a wavy (not cerated) cutting edge. A key point is
>that there is a hole about the size of a quarter at the heal of the blade -
>for inserting your forefinger!!!. Regardless of oil, fuel or blood this
>thing would never slip in your hand. You could make hard jabbing blows to
>penetrate and slice through plexi, aluminum or even thin sheet steel. It
is
>designed for rough survival chores and is not practical as a regular knife.
>
>Unless a better solution comes along (or I'm missing something here) I will
>store this type of knife with the blade open in a permanent sheath beween
>the seats. It will be a safety item on my preflight so that it will be
there
>if I ever land with the oily side up.
>
>Ernest Kells
>RV-9A - Building Empenage EAA: #430137
>Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email: ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca
>
>
I quote from the Cirrus SR20 POH, section 7-21:
"An eight-ounce ball-peen type hammer is located in the center armrest
accessible to either front seat occupant. In the event of a mishap where the
cabin doors are jammed or inoperable, the hammer may be used to break
through the acrylic window to provide an escape for the cabin occupants."
That's how they do it in a newly certificated (FAR 23 no less!) airplane!
Happy smashing.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Width of angle stock, was: Tip-up or slider..... Getting |
out after a crash.
using a laser pointer:
>
>Make a block of wood exactly 1.5 inches across (about 6x1.5x.5) this will
>keep the HS814 and HS810 (61x for you -6 guys) parallel. Now they will move
>as a perfectly aligned unit removing 1 variable from the tricky alignment
>process.
>(A 1 inch angle, plus 1.5 inch block, plus 3/4 inch angle = 3.25 inches, the
>desired
>thickness of the assembly)
>
Eric,
One cautionary note: I have recently discovered that all angle stock
is not exactly the nominal dimensions. I am working with two
different sizes of angle stock right now for my RV-8 landing gear
boxes, and both sizes are about 1/32 undersize on both legs of the
angle. So, if a measurement is given from one face of the angle, and
you need to go at the problem from the other face, you had better
measure to see what the width of that angle really is. Of course,
this is not necessary everytime, only on the critcal dimensions.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: toggle switch cover |
The only source I have found for these is American Champion Aircraft. They
use them on the Citabrias. I bought all my toggle switches and toggle
covers from them (they had white, blue, and red). They must have a source
somewhere for other colors so you might give their parts department a call
(414)-534-6315)
Doug Weiler
>
> I an looking for colored boots to put over the toggle on the toggle
switches.
> I have tried the web, radiohovel, digi-key, -mouser, and a few others.
They
> have to exist. I want to use them to color code the ele. panel on the
Rv-8.
> (The switches are the Potter Brumfield that come in the Vans ele. kit.
> PLEASE HELP.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8-8A Builders in Chicago Area? |
I,m in the milwaukee area
Gert
CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/16/2000 8:02:51 AM Central Standard Time,
> jkholley(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> Are there any RV8/8A builders in the Chicago area who would be willing to
> show off their project?
>
> I'm getting ready to get started and would like to see an 8 project before I
> make the final decision on the 8A vs. 6A project.
>
> You can reply directly at jkholley(at)earthlink.net
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jack Holley
> jkholley(at)earthlink.net
> >>
>
> if you come up to oshkosh wi i will show of my f1 rocket
>
> chris wilcox
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
In a message dated 02/15/2000 9:06:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
<< I
intend to add a steel slug to the bottom end of it to assist the egress
process. >>
Sam and friends. I would think that a good long blast with a CO2
extinguisher would help the canopy to shatter due to the fast cooling. What
do others think?
Jim Nice
RV6A(Wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
>
>In a message dated 02/15/2000 9:06:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
>
><< I
> intend to add a steel slug to the bottom end of it to assist the egress
> process. >>
>Sam and friends. I would think that a good long blast with a CO2
>extinguisher would help the canopy to shatter due to the fast cooling. What
>do others think?
>Jim Nice
>RV6A(Wings)
>
And if it does not shatter what will you breath???
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tipup or slider, getting out |
Hola,
> In a message dated 02/15/2000 9:06:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
>
> << I
> intend to add a steel slug to the bottom end of it to assist the egress
> process. >>
> Sam and friends. I would think that a good long blast with a CO2
> extinguisher would help the canopy to shatter due to the fast cooling. What
> do others think?
> Jim Nice
> RV6A(Wings)
Just carry a stick or two of dynamite. That will take care of the canopy,
no problem.
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: toggle switch cover |
Look in the Allied Electronics catalog as well. I saw them there today.
Ed Cole
RV6A Fisnish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: toggle switch cover
>
> The only source I have found for these is American Champion Aircraft.
They
> use them on the Citabrias. I bought all my toggle switches and toggle
> covers from them (they had white, blue, and red). They must have a source
> somewhere for other colors so you might give their parts department a call
> (414)-534-6315)
>
> Doug Weiler
>
>
> >
> > I an looking for colored boots to put over the toggle on the toggle
> switches.
> > I have tried the web, radiohovel, digi-key, -mouser, and a few others.
> They
> > have to exist. I want to use them to color code the ele. panel on the
> Rv-8.
> > (The switches are the Potter Brumfield that come in the Vans ele. kit.
> > PLEASE HELP.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 02/16/00 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal Kempthorne" <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8(A) Wing Removal Question
>
>
> >A big constraint I have here in Silicon Valley is very expensive hangers.
>
> Where did you find a hangar in Silicon Valley?? There were some up in San
> Carlos, new, for $695 a month but they are all taken already. I heard they
> stopped putting people on the Reid Hillview waiting list as dying is the
> only way the list shortens.
C'mon down to the SC Lowcountry. Tiedowns at my GA airport (Beaufort County
Airport, also known as "Frogmore Intranational - just a hop, skip and a jump from
everywhere)" are $40/month. And it's short-sleeve weather. :-)
John Lawson
Only used three HS-610s and two HS-614s to get one good one of each
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Edmondson" <tazman(at)lakemartin.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: RV-6 KIT FOR SALE |
RV-6 Empenage and Wing kit for sale. Empenage kit is 95% complete. The
wing kit which has the Phlogiston spar has been uncrated but not touched
since. Both kits are the pre-punched era. I am located in east central
Alabama,
120 miles southwest of Atlanta. I bought a Stearman. $700.00 for the
empenage $3500.00 for the wing. Both kits would be $5356.00 from Vans plus
shipping, plus cost of Phlogiston spar. Will deliver within 300 miles
of my home. If you need more info, e-mail me off the list or call. Do not
archive.
Joe Edmondson
256-825-8929
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
is this kit stil for sale and is it a 6 or a 6A.
is the finishing kit included?
>From: Mcnu93945(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 21:44:26 EST
>
>
>the plane is located in Newport, Vermont.No pictures available
>yet.Workmanship is decent except on the canopy.Canopy is airworthybut very
>rough. e-mail
>mcnu93945(at)aol.com
> tel 603-598-4698 eastern time zone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Have I done something wrong? |
Listers,
I received this direct e-mail after I posted a response to "dumb question" a
few days ago.
snip-
>"I have another dumb question
>At 5'10'' and 180lbs and never having flown your own
>RV4 what qualifies you to give advice to someone 6'5"
>and 230 lbs about size?
>Tom McIntyre
>San Carlos, Cal
>RV3 976TM"
snip-
I have to apologize, he is right. I can't speak for anyone taller than
myself on how an RV-4 or any other plane will fit them. They just have to
try it themselves.
One other Dumb Question for Tom-
Who are you to ask? I didn't realize I had to meet minimum qualifications
to give an OPINION on this list. I, myself, am always grateful for any
advise from anyone regardless of their background. Some of the best advise
I've ever received came from people with no idea what they were talking
about. Their "outside of the problem" objective is sometimes clearer and
more practical.
To everyone else,
If I post a question, please answer it. I will be happy for any opinions.
Don't be discouraged by anyone who may call you "unqualified".
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse almost done
Engine being rebuilt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: toggle switch cover |
FWIW, I used the Home Depo colored rubber caps that fit the switch levers
perfect. Colors are white, blue,yellow & red....Also, HELP blister packages at
the local Pep Boys had some rubber like caps that I used for various things on
the RV. Finally, the LAN geek at my work location had fiber optic rubber like
caps that they use to protect the polished end of a fiber optic
cable......different sizes. I got a handful of different sizes from him...
Vanremog(at)aol.com on 02/15/2000 11:37:01 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: toggle switch cover
In a message dated 2/15/00 6:27:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, ERSF2B(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I am looking for colored boots to put over the toggle on the toggle
switches.
I have tried the web, radiohovel, digi-key, -mouser, and a few others. They
have to exist. I want to use them to color code the ele. panel on the Rv-8.
(The switches are the Potter Brumfield that come in the Vans ele. kit. >>
The only ones I know of that fit the large toggle (bat) switches are
extensions made by Cole Hersee. There are only six different colors listed
in my catalog (red, yel, blk, grn, blu and wht). Check with your local
trucker's store or call Cole Hersee direct at 617-268-2100. I'll keep
looking in my catalogs.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Harmon Rocket II |
As a general interest item, does anyone have a count on the number of HR-II 's
activly being built and under construction ? How many kits are out there ? How
many finished ?
or a contact list of HR-II builders. The Matronic HR-II page is sparce & I
wonder if the HR-II builders are on the RV pages or what ??
JJM(at)foothill.net on 02/15/2000 06:49:04 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: F-1
Congratulations, I am # 25 on the list and am starting to think the wait may
be the worst part. I am in Auburn CA. and would love to see the kit and
visit if you are open to this please let me know. I would be glad to pay
for lunch or dinner.
Joe Mueller F1 #25
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul & Gerti VanderSchuur <gertivs(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 4:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: F-1
>
> Team Rocket, Inc. has just delivered three F-1 kits to the state of CA,
and
> we have 006. What a wonderful Day!!
>
>
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Have I done something wrong? |
You are absolutely right Pat. Why do people ask questions if they are going
to be rude about the answers they receive? If I ask a question, please
answer with what ever you feel like. I'm adult enough to listen to what I
like and ignore what I don't like. I don't feel the need to flame people
about email and I don't flip people off on the highway when they do
something I don't like.....
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8(A) Wing Removal Question |
Don't even think about it......If this is a perceived requirement then the RV is
NOT for you. Don't mean to be a ass hole here but Don't go there with this type
of aircraft.....
collins(at)pali.com on 02/16/2000 02:35:05 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8(A) Wing Removal Question
Hi everyone,
I have been wrestling with the choice of an aircraft to
build and I am currently investigating the RV-8 or RV-8A.
A big constraint I have here in Silicon Valley is very
expensive hangers. I have investigated folding/removable
wings for trailering and found the choices limiting.
My next choice would be to use a tiedown (also expensive,
but less so). The problem with this option is that I
would have no place to do major work on the plane.
My question is, for the RV-8 or RV-8A, how time consuming
would it be to remove the wings if I need to take it
home? Would it be different for the -8 or the -8A?
The RV-8(A) has a true centersection. Does that mean that
it will stand on its gear while removing the wings? I
understand the RV-6A has the gear bolted to the wing spars,
making the process messy.
Thanks
Bob Collins
Sunnyvale CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | tipup or slider, getting out |
> >> Denny Harjehausen wrote:
> >> > Harbour Freight.com....seels a neat little do all Emegency Hammer
> >> > W/mounting bracket for $9.99.
> >
> > Ernest Kells wrote:
> >IMHO I think that a "hammer approach" may not work very well. With the
> >weight of the plane compressing the canopy I think (who knows??) that an
> >impact tool will do a poor job of smashing the canopy for egressing -
it's
> >not glass.
> >
> >I have seen a tool that I think (here I go again??) will work - by
February 11, 2000 - February 17, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-hy