RV-Archive.digest.vol-ia
February 23, 2000 - February 28, 2000
>on one wing. I can not match drill the new skin because of the bend, so do
>you think that back drilling through the rib flanges for one side would
work
>and then working the skin up and over the nose while removing the lower
>colecos would keep every thing tight>
>Doug Murray RV-6 And I thought I was getting close to being done!
>Southern Alberta
>
May I suggest consulting AC43-13 on patches and sketching an internal patch
to send to Van's for approval. A good glass job at the patch area and
nobody will know it is patched after painting. Drilling off the leading
edge skin and reriveting will cause considerable trauma to the structure!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
With the recent discussion on replacing the top skin, thought I would throw
in my $.02 on landing lights.
The thought of cutting my wing skin did not make me feel very comfortable.
While I know it has been done successfully thousands of times, I am sure
that Doug's case is not the first. I could only imagine that cut off wheel
catching the metal and tweaking it, or worse, slipping and ruining the skin
on my beautiful wing.
So I went with the RMD lights. The quality is absolutely excellent, and the
George Orndorff video explains it perfectly. To make them fit right, you
work with cutting fiberglass, and just sanding to fit, and the chance for
error is greatly reduced. And if you do slip, or cut too much, you can
always glass in more material. I think I have 10 12 hours in each wing tip
light, which includes covering the rivets and smoothing out the fiberglass.
Once it's done and you see it, it's a no brainer as to the right way to go.
They were also worth the $300. Oh yeah, the 50 watt bulbs are brighter too,
'cause they are halogens. There will be pictures available on my website
soon of the installation.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another surrendered soul |
You can see a list of tools that I use on my website at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/thetools.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Judd" <sjudd(at)ffd2.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 10:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Another surrendered soul
>
> Hola,
>
> Well, after my advice about being cautious and responsible I have decided
> to throw caution to the winds, responsibility to the dogs, financial
> acumen to the cats, and free time, well, somewhere, and I expect to order
> my RV-8 empennage within a week or so. I want to especially thank (?)
> Larry Pardue for flying all the way up from Carlsbad to give me a ride in
> his beautiful RV6 -- it wasn't the only thing that pushed me over the
> edge, but it sure gave a healthy shove.
>
> At the moment, however, I am pondering tools, and have several questions:
>
> 1) Would anyone in New Mexico/Colorado happen to have a set of RV tools
> they'd like to sell?
>
> 2) Failing that, what tools do I need? Just kidding... I've read the
> FAQ, numerous web pages, the Avery and Cleaveland catalogs, Van's web
> page, and the archives. The problem is that there is a lot of
> contradictory advice -- like, where one person will say "The Avery RV
> tool kit is great" and another guy will say "You don't need a lot of
> those tools and could best put your money elsewhere" and so on.
> Have I missed a website somewhere that explains what the tools are
> for, and _why_ you need/want (or don't need/want) a particular tool?
>
> Otherwise I'll probably just go with an Avery tool kit with appropriate
> additions/substitutions (based on vaguely educated guesses).
>
> Sometimes it seems silly to worry about saving a few hundred dollars
> on a $40,000 endeavor. It's almost as bad as having to pay $0.80 for a
> head of lettuce worth $0.49. But by golly, there's a principle
> involved!
>
> 3) The pneumatic rivet squeezer. On the one hand, it looks like it could
> save a lot of time and do a better job. On the other hand, $400-$500
> is an awful lot of scratch for just one tool. On the third hand, when
> I was examining a wing under construction, I didn't see a lot of places
> where a rivet squeezer could be used. Same with the fuselage. So my
> question is: on an RV-8, roughly what percentage of the rivets will a
> squeezer be used on?
>
> 4) Is there any place that has a list of the various 3rd party options
> available, or at least gives an idea of what is out there? I am
> talking about things that are handy to know when building/ordering
> different kits/kit options (lighting options, electric trim kits,
> etc.). If not, well, I guess I ought to put _something_ of value
> on my web page.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> -Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TOOLS again WAS:Another surrendered soul |
>1) Would anyone in New Mexico/Colorado happen to have a set of RV tools
> they'd like to sell?
Or anyone anywhere! Used RV tools are hard to come by. That means that
you can buy all the tools you can afford and easily sell them later.
>The problem is that there is a lot of contradictory advice --
Mostly because we are all different. One builder is an airline captain or
lawyer or physician and
can't understand why some of us need to scrimp. Another simply prizes the
best in everything and insists on professional tools that never wear
out. Giant manufacturing corporations buy some of their machinery, lease
some, and farm out work requiring other machinery. They make their
decisions based on many factors some of which are:
the cost of money - what it costs them to borrow or their return
on investments
decline in value of purchase - not much for our RV tools I guess
cost of labor - yours in this case - a file is nice but a power
tool saves time
useful life of purchase - one plane or many
If you can invest your money at 75% you might want to buy few tools and
borrow the rest! Or rent in exchange for time (unless you are earning big
bucks!) or beer. Or farm out the work - have the local FBO bleed your brakes.
> Sometimes it seems silly to worry about saving a few hundred dollars
> on a $40,000 endeavor. It's almost as bad as having to pay $0.80 for a
> head of lettuce worth $0.49. But by golly, there's a principle
> involved!
There sure is. It applies to money and to aircraft gross weight. That
principle is: IT ADDS UP
>3) The pneumatic rivet squeezer.
If I had known then what I know now, I would be gotten one with two yokes -
maybe three. I've never regretted having three pairs of cleco pliers and
five drill motors.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
> HAS ANYONE PLUMBED HEAT TO THE REAR SEAT AREA YET?
>
> IF SO, WHERE DID YOU RUN THE TUBING, AND WHAT SIZE TUBING DID YOU USE?
> THANKS FOR THE INPUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have pondered this since starting my project. After considerable thought,
and after talking at length with the guys in the Van's prototype shop (I
live near the factory), I have given up. The problem is that you'd need to
route a hose through both the F-802 gear leg towers and the F-804 main spar
carry-thru. Doing so would compromise the structural integrity of each to a
point that no one at Van's was comfortable with... these are both high
stress areas.
If you figure it out there are a lot of builders interested so please post
it. In the mean time I plan on keeping a small blanket in the back for my
wife (always cold). The good news is that Scott McDaniels, who flys the
factory 8's quite a bit, reports that the standard left-center firewall heat
duck tends to blow hot air right past the pilot's left side and into the
back seat. I don't think this would compare to a dedicated rear seat heat
outlet, but better than nothing.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, finish kit
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another surrendered soul |
I could not agree more. I started out with Avery's hand squeezer, but after
doing the 1/8" rivets in the empennage, I bought the pneumatic squeezer.
Easy on the wrist and does beautiful consistent shop heads.
Bill C. RV8A tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: Japundza, Bob <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 7:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Another surrendered soul
>
> My two cents on the pneumatic squeezer....
>
> GET ONE!
>
> I went through 75% of the construction of my RV-6 without it; and
magically
> Santa delivered one for me last Christmas...now it is my favorite tool to
> use.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 fuse done, painted, etc.
> Right wing almost finished, left one 40% done
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Carter [mailto:rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 12:39 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another surrendered soul
>
>
> >
> > Otherwise I'll probably just go with an Avery tool kit with
appropriate
> > additions/substitutions (based on vaguely educated guesses).
>
> Which is what I did. There's no way that you will know everything that
you
> want at first, but the kit is a good start. I've always used a good
> cordless drill instead of an air drill - keeps me from having to fire up
> that damn compressor all the time and lugging that hose around my shop.
> >
> > Sometimes it seems silly to worry about saving a few hundred dollars
> > on a $40,000 endeavor. It's almost as bad as having to pay $0.80 for
a
> > head of lettuce worth $0.49. But by golly, there's a principle
> > involved!
>
> I don't know - a thousand here, a thousand there, pretty soon you're
talking
> about some real money !
>
>
> > 3) The pneumatic rivet squeezer. On the one hand, it looks like it
could
> > save a lot of time and do a better job. On the other hand, $400-$500
> > is an awful lot of scratch for just one tool. On the third hand,
when
> > I was examining a wing under construction, I didn't see a lot of
places
> > where a rivet squeezer could be used. Same with the fuselage. So my
> > question is: on an RV-8, roughly what percentage of the rivets will a
> > squeezer be used on?
>
> I think I would spend a my money instead on a second, larger rivet
squeezer
> that you could use on the AN470 rivets on places like the spar of the HS.
> Having a smaller, rivet squeezer, especially one with an interchangeable
> "no-hole" head on it to get into tight places is nice as well. Having two
> squeezers will keep you from having to change out the fittings, for
example,
> to dimple one or two holes that you forgot to do.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Jerry Carter
> 8A, Installing platenuts for wing root fairings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
>
>HAS ANYONE PLUMBED HEAT TO THE REAR SEAT AREA YET?
>
>IF SO, WHERE DID YOU RUN THE TUBING, AND WHAT SIZE TUBING DID YOU USE?
> THANKS FOR THE INPUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> ED...............80127
Ed,
I wish I could have figured out how to do this. The main hurdle is the 804
bulkhead. Punching a 2" or larger hole through it for a length of duct
seems like a structural NO-NO to me. Then, the hose would have to be run
under the floor, around the foot wells, then to the rear stick area to an
eyeball vent. By the time the air got back there, It would cool down and
slow down, so the efficiency of the system is in question. It's been done
in the -4, I think.
I've been flying in some pretty cold temps up at altitude this winter and
I've found that if my passenger wears a jacket, and you make sure to get the
tightest seal around the canopy skirt, they will be OK with residual heat
from up front with a standard air box on the firewall. My wife's feet get
the coldest down in the footwells, but the rest of her does OK now that
those drafts are under control. (I used adhesive backed felt all the way
around the canopy skirt where it contacts the fuselage.) The hole where the
rear stick is also lets a lot leakage air come up into the passenger's face.
I made a reasonable attempt at a boot type of contraption out of
upholstery vinyl and taped it down over that hole. I'd like to see a better
pattern for this boot or another way to cover up that hole. I think Lyle
Hefel made a really nice cover for his.
If you can eventually figure out how to get heat directly routed back there,
please share your ideas!
Best of luck,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
46 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Wed, 23 Feb 2000 11:24:14.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Replacing top skin |
02/23/2000 11:29:02 AM
In a message dated 2/22/00 4:34:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bertrv(at)intellistar.net writes:
<< how can I, matchs the holes,, the skin, does not
come pre-drill,for a quick built....
I would appreciate suggestions, for all of you experts in sheet-
metal work etc.. >>
As one who has replaced all the skins on a wing, I clamped/duct taped the
skins in position, being very carefull
(this time) to make sure there was no bow in the spar and that the skins
were in position, then back drill
the skin through the holes in the ribs, clecoeing the skin to the ribs as
you go to hold the skin in position. Work from the top center out and down
to make sure the skin lays correctly.
Scott Fink
Getting ready to rivit the skins on the left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TOOLS again WAS:Another surrendered soul |
" If I had known then what I know now, I would be gotten one with two yokes -
maybe three. I've never regretted having three pairs of cleco pliers and
five drill motors. "
Second on that advice. I own 2 cheepie small air drills-=-one with a #30 dirll
bit and the other with a #40 in the chuck all the time. Sounds excessive but I
coulden't build my second RV with out em'. Dito for the 2 or three cleko pliers
& I own 3 battery drills ( Miketta ??) all take the same battery size..(one is
the angle drill) One drill has the #30, the other has the #40 and the third has
the unibit or phillips driver bit in it....Cleavland has a light weight air hose
with mini quick fittings. This is great because you aren't fighting the bigger
hose and the air tool is more comfortable to position & work with ......
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
Don't laugh but I have seen elect. quartz heaters used in such a application.
The fiberglass crowd has done this for years and the technology has advanced to
the point that the current(voltage) requirement and safety issues are all under
control. The Long-EZ and Cozy and others all have elect. cabin heat........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
Do you know of any sources for these heaters?
scot
>
>
>Don't laugh but I have seen elect. quartz heaters used in such a
application.
>The fiberglass crowd has done this for years and the technology has
advanced to
>the point that the current(voltage) requirement and safety issues are all
under
>control. The Long-EZ and Cozy and others all have elect. cabin heat........
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | rv6a tipup f-644 rib |
Scott , study the factory & will Cretsinger's notes. ( Gil's page & the
texas wing)
Your "pin" up front needs to be drilled through the 646, the pivot arms,
the spacers, then the 644. It is a short rib( I think you cut a piece
diaganlly to get both). I drilled to the 668 sub panel, then up in the
forward top skin. The 643 in the center was too short & did not show an
attachment point to the 601 firewall, so I built a splice to connect to.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
****************************************************************************
>
>dear listers
>can anyone explain the installation proceedures of the f- 644. the
>prints are
>vague. how do they attach, and what do they attach to?
>thanks
>scott
>tampa
>scratching my noggin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
IMO, I wouldn't bother. I had one in my Long-EZ. The heat output is not
voluminous enough to make a significant difference. The "plastic" folks put
them in the nose to keep their feet from freezing off. There is very little
airflow up there and still the heater was marginal at best. They are
expensive too. The last I looked AC$ carried them.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Final stages of painting"
-----Original Message-----
From: Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT
>
>Do you know of any sources for these heaters?
>
>scot
>
>
>>
>>
>>Don't laugh but I have seen elect. quartz heaters used in such a
>application.
>>The fiberglass crowd has done this for years and the technology has
>advanced to
>>the point that the current(voltage) requirement and safety issues are all
>under
>>control. The Long-EZ and Cozy and others all have elect. cabin
heat........
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
No direct data on quartz heaters other than hit the fiberglass-cannard airplanes
archive on the Matronics web page. I didn't pay any attention because I was
building a RV. I 've had rides in a Rutan LongEZ and had plenty of heat from the
elect heaters onboard.
stambaug(at)qualcomm.com on 02/23/2000 02:01:02 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT
Do you know of any sources for these heaters?
scot
>
>
>Don't laugh but I have seen elect. quartz heaters used in such a
application.
>The fiberglass crowd has done this for years and the technology has
advanced to
>the point that the current(voltage) requirement and safety issues are all
under
>control. The Long-EZ and Cozy and others all have elect. cabin heat........
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | ductworks landing lights |
For sale 2ea. ductwork landing lights both for $140.00
and you pay shipping as well. Call me at 817-577-9596
or my cell at 817-875-8468
Glenn Williams
8A wings
FT. WORTH, TX.
A&P MECH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Graham <gary(at)colonialmortgage.net> |
| Subject: | S-Tec Auto Pilot Install |
Has anyone any experience installing an S-Tec System 30 autopilot in an RV-8?
If you have let me know how and where you mounted the roll and pitch servos.
Thanks
Gary Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
Nice try. The lights are also halogen and just a bright. As to cutting over
cutting the wing would require some real effort if you follow the
instructions. I diagree with your simplicity of doing it with glass. There
are people out here that could die just touching fiberglass. Frankly I would
rather take an aluminium splinter.
I did both wings in less than 4 hours and am very happy with the results.
RV8
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
I originally bought the duckworks and hooked the duckworks up along with the
RMD. There is no question that the RMD is brighter. Maybe I was incorrect
in stating that the duckworks were not halogen, but nevertheless, the RMD is
brighter. Also, if someone were to die touching fiberglass, then they
should not build an RV, unless they are going to farm out the cowl, canopy
fairing, wingtips, elevator tips, HS tips, rudder tip and bottom, wheel
pants, intersection farings, etc Also, the only fiberglass to do is cut
the hole, and just do minor trimming and sanding. With regards to cutting
the hole in the aluminum, maybe you have been lucky that you have never had
a fast spinning cutting wheel catch the metal incorrectly and "pop" the
metal to where it was tweaked, or had the rotation of the wheel carry it off
of your line and onto the surface. I know I have.
I was not trying to state that builders who put in the Duckworks should have
gone with the RMD's by any means, because the Duckworks are a good quality
kit. I was simply trying to let new builders, or builders who have not yet
made the decision realize the difference in the two kits, from someone who
has had both.
The RMD lights installed on one of my wingtips can be seen at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/wing2.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDEggers(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights
>
> Nice try. The lights are also halogen and just a bright. As to cutting
over
> cutting the wing would require some real effort if you follow the
> instructions. I diagree with your simplicity of doing it with glass.
There
> are people out here that could die just touching fiberglass. Frankly I
would
> rather take an aluminium splinter.
> I did both wings in less than 4 hours and am very happy with the results.
>
> RV8
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cliffd(at)accesscom.net |
| Subject: | RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
Greetings -
Drawing 15 for the 8 wing kit shows the AN833-4D Ell installed in the
main spar flange. That's a 7/16th hole, right though that beautiful
spar. Is anybody else a little uneasy about this? Even my tech advisor
was a little surprised by it.
I suppose it is because that flange - especially that far outboard -
is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so much. Right?
Thanks
Cliff Dominey
8A wings (still)
cliffd(at)accesscom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
Folks,
I am also building a RV-8, and have pondered the wife-heat-rearseat problem.
The only info I ever got from Vans was ,'they're working on it'. I belive
they were thinking about runing the heat thru the big rectangular hole for
the control system.
I have more than enough to do just to get it flying, that I have not worked
on the problem. But one idea is to not use a round tube, but a rectangular
'tube'down the right side towards the rear. A metal workers nightmare at
first thought, but do-able.
In the mean time, back to painting.
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Prop Balance - correction |
Someone brought to my attention that my minimums was wrong. Vibration
levels below 0.2 or 0.1 is acceptable, not 0.02 or 0.02.
Again, mine came down from 0.25 to 0.06.
Anh
N985VU
-6
Maryland (2W6)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: TOOLS again WAS:Another surrendered soul |
On the subject of 1/8" rivets being tough to squeeze with a hand squeezer...
(and they are, unless you've got Popeye's forearms)...
The squeezer is strong enough to handle the 1/8" rivets (it says so on the
package, right?), it is the user who isn't up to the task. So, I took a 20"
piece of conduit and slippied over one handle, and inserted a long (20")
steel rod in the other handle, and voila... Cheater handles. Works great. A
$5.00 substitute for hours at the Gym...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
ERSF2B(at)aol.com wrote:
> \ But one idea is to not use a round tube, but a rectangular
> 'tube'down the right side towards the rear. A metal workers nightmare at
> first thought, but do-able.
> In the mean time, back to painting.
>
> Ed Storo RV-8
Ed--
One other approach is to borrpw a technique from the plastic airplane guys and
build a solid male plug of the duct out of blue styrofoam. The stuff from Home
Depot is cheap and very easy to work with. Once you have the shape you want,
wrap it in a couple of layers of bid cloth and epoxy. After the resin cures,
use a solvent to melt the foam. This is a little messy, but you can make some
very complex shapes without too much work. Of course, fiberglass is a morally
inferior chouce, but if you can still live with yourself afterwards.....
James Freeman
RV8Q fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
>From: cliffd(at)accesscom.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation
>Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 16:52:47 -0600
>
>
>Greetings -
> Drawing 15 for the 8 wing kit shows the AN833-4D Ell installed in the
>main spar flange. That's a 7/16th hole, right though that beautiful
>spar. Is anybody else a little uneasy about this? Even my tech advisor
>was a little surprised by it.
> I suppose it is because that flange - especially that far outboard -
>is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
> So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so much. Right?
>
>Thanks
>
>Cliff Dominey
>8A wings (still)
>cliffd(at)accesscom.net
>
Cliff,
Correct. Just drill it and move on. The wings are still on my airplane
after some 4g pulls (solo, under aerobatic gross weight) and bone jarring
turbulence at close to max gross weight. The vertical bending stress is
being mostly carried by the spar web anyway.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
46 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Devine Engines |
If you go further down the page he shows some outright pricing.
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
I was reading the February 2000 issue of Light Plane Maintenance and found
an article on "Keeping Warm". The article primarily talks about
maintaining heating systems on certified airplanes. They talk about this
unit at the end of the article as an option when you can't get the
airplane's heater to do the job.
http://www.therm-tech.com/ThermTech/roadproducts1.html
Scot
>
>
>ERSF2B(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>> \ But one idea is to not use a round tube, but a rectangular
>> 'tube'down the right side towards the rear. A metal workers nightmare at
>> first thought, but do-able.
>> In the mean time, back to painting.
>>
>> Ed Storo RV-8
>
>Ed--
>
>One other approach is to borrpw a technique from the plastic airplane guys and
>build a solid male plug of the duct out of blue styrofoam. The stuff from
Home
>Depot is cheap and very easy to work with. Once you have the shape you want,
>wrap it in a couple of layers of bid cloth and epoxy. After the resin cures,
>use a solvent to melt the foam. This is a little messy, but you can make some
>very complex shapes without too much work. Of course, fiberglass is a morally
>inferior chouce, but if you can still live with yourself afterwards.....
>
>James Freeman
>RV8Q fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <reece(at)rt66.com> |
| Subject: | ductworks landing lights |
Maybe be a dumb question, but has anyone thought about incorporating a
projection style light so that the hole in either the wing tip or leading
edge would be very small? I have been having some brain activity towards
looking into a way to use these and whether or not they would work. . .any
feedback?
http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=52363
Rob Reece
RV-3 s/n 45
Socorro, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
A gent from Canada mentioned heated seats a couple weeks ago: carbon fibers
built into the seats themselves -- just like car seats. My wife/copilot
likes this idea lot. Anyone else?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ERSF2B(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 6:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT
>
>
> Folks,
> I am also building a RV-8, and have pondered the
> wife-heat-rearseat problem.
> The only info I ever got from Vans was ,'they're working on it'. I belive
> they were thinking about runing the heat thru the big rectangular
> hole for
> the control system.
> I have more than enough to do just to get it flying, that I have
> not worked
> on the problem. But one idea is to not use a round tube, but a
> rectangular
> 'tube'down the right side towards the rear. A metal workers nightmare at
> first thought, but do-able.
> In the mean time, back to painting.
>
> Ed Storo RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
I have a set of engine instruments in my RV-6 made by DPS Instruments, Inc.,
of Chino California. They all work fine except for the digital EGT/CHT,
which has what appears to be a bad display. It has no usable numbers most of
the time, with all of the LCD lines appearing and disappearing more or less
randomly. And it has a funny response to being touched, different from the
other instruments. I can not find any reference to DPS online and the phone
number in the documentation is no longer working.
Anyone out there know what has happened to them, and perhaps who can repair
this instrument for me? Aside from the cost, I would hate to break up a nice
looking panel with a new type.
Thanks,
Jim Van Laak
N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
Right!
RV8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick or Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New engine temps |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New engine temps
>
> >I have an 0-360 that I am breaking in in my 6A. I have had some concerns
> >with
> >oil temps (firewall mounted cooler) but my CHTs have not been a problem
at
> >all.
Rick:
You may have already thought of this, but check to be sure the seals on the
top of the baffles are not getting rolled or blown backwards during or after
cowl installation. On my 4 this will occasionally occur during installtion
of the cowl.
On the 4 at least, most of the seals can be seen or felt through the oil
door or front openings and pushed back into place if need be.
Dick Sipp
N250DS
180 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Hmmm... I called the number on the web page and the gentleman I talked to
said they didn't have any engines to sell. Maybe that's the pricing when
they do have engines available.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com [SMTP:Lenleg(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 4:18 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Devine Engines
If you go further down the page he shows some outright pricing.
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another surrendered soul |
I've got a page on my website devoted to various tools that I use. While
not a complete list it shows most of what you'll need.
I would like to add my opinion that, if you can afford it, two squeezers
would be helpful. When doing the empennage I found changing the yolks
frequently. I also recommend the Avery squeezer over the Tatco type. It
seems like I change yolks frequently and with the Avery squeezer, I can
change it in about 15 seconds or so. I've got 4 different yolks and use all
of them. If you only get one yolk, then the 3" one is the way to go. Also,
several 2-3 at least cleco pliers are useful. You always leave one laying
around somewhere and if you have a helper then you'll need two. I can't
imagine using an electric or battery drill. As many times as you raise and
lower the drill the weight of the air drill is an advantage.
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/tools.htm
Mike & Beth Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Another surrendered soul
>
> You can see a list of tools that I use on my website at:
>
> http://members.home.net/rv8er/thetools.htm
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Judd" <sjudd(at)ffd2.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 10:00 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Another surrendered soul
>
>
> >
> > Hola,
> >
> > Well, after my advice about being cautious and responsible I have
decided
> > to throw caution to the winds, responsibility to the dogs, financial
> > acumen to the cats, and free time, well, somewhere, and I expect to
order
> > my RV-8 empennage within a week or so. I want to especially thank (?)
> > Larry Pardue for flying all the way up from Carlsbad to give me a ride
in
> > his beautiful RV6 -- it wasn't the only thing that pushed me over the
> > edge, but it sure gave a healthy shove.
> >
> > At the moment, however, I am pondering tools, and have several
questions:
> >
> > 1) Would anyone in New Mexico/Colorado happen to have a set of RV tools
> > they'd like to sell?
> >
> > 2) Failing that, what tools do I need? Just kidding... I've read the
> > FAQ, numerous web pages, the Avery and Cleaveland catalogs, Van's web
> > page, and the archives. The problem is that there is a lot of
> > contradictory advice -- like, where one person will say "The Avery RV
> > tool kit is great" and another guy will say "You don't need a lot of
> > those tools and could best put your money elsewhere" and so on.
> > Have I missed a website somewhere that explains what the tools are
> > for, and _why_ you need/want (or don't need/want) a particular tool?
> >
> > Otherwise I'll probably just go with an Avery tool kit with
appropriate
> > additions/substitutions (based on vaguely educated guesses).
> >
> > Sometimes it seems silly to worry about saving a few hundred dollars
> > on a $40,000 endeavor. It's almost as bad as having to pay $0.80 for
a
> > head of lettuce worth $0.49. But by golly, there's a principle
> > involved!
> >
> > 3) The pneumatic rivet squeezer. On the one hand, it looks like it
could
> > save a lot of time and do a better job. On the other hand, $400-$500
> > is an awful lot of scratch for just one tool. On the third hand,
when
> > I was examining a wing under construction, I didn't see a lot of
places
> > where a rivet squeezer could be used. Same with the fuselage. So my
> > question is: on an RV-8, roughly what percentage of the rivets will a
> > squeezer be used on?
> >
> > 4) Is there any place that has a list of the various 3rd party options
> > available, or at least gives an idea of what is out there? I am
> > talking about things that are handy to know when building/ordering
> > different kits/kit options (lighting options, electric trim kits,
> > etc.). If not, well, I guess I ought to put _something_ of value
> > on my web page.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > -Steve
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
Concerning drilling hoes through the spar flange for the pitot tube,
previous comments included:
> > I suppose it is because that flange - especially that far outboard -
> >is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
> > So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so much. Right?
> >
The vertical bending stress is
> being mostly carried by the spar web anyway.
>
I disagree. The bending stresses are primarily resisted by the flanges.
The web is primarily resisting the shear stress. As for whether that
matters here, I can't say. Maybe Kevin could comment.
Terry Watson
8A tanks (almost done!)
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Winter flying in New Mexico |
Anyone on the list familiar with winter weather conditions in norhtwestern
New Mexico? I am going that way this weekend and wanted to speak with
someone who has knowledge of local weather trends in that part of the state.
Sorry for the intrusion on the list. Pleaser reply off-list.
Thanks
Ivan Haecker rv-4 650hrs baremetl(at)gvtc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
Most auto manufactures use just a thin layer of material, between the foam
and the leather, with the heating
element incorporated right in it, with a pig tail for 12VDC . I know Porsche
and BMW do. But I,m Checkin' with Chevy and Ford first. Some have
thermostatic controls.
J D Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT
>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT
> >
> >
> >
> > Folks,
> > I am also building a RV-8, and have pondered the
> > wife-heat-rearseat problem.
> > The only info I ever got from Vans was ,'they're working on it'. I
belive
> > they were thinking about runing the heat thru the big rectangular
> > hole for
> > the control system.
> > I have more than enough to do just to get it flying, that I have
> > not worked
> > on the problem. But one idea is to not use a round tube, but a
> > rectangular
> > 'tube'down the right side towards the rear. A metal workers nightmare at
> > first thought, but do-able.
> > In the mean time, back to painting.
> >
> > Ed Storo RV-8
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: DPS Instruments |
>
>I have a set of engine instruments in my RV-6 made by DPS Instruments, Inc.,
>of Chino California. They all work fine except for the digital EGT/CHT,
>which has what appears to be a bad display. It has no usable numbers most of
>the time, with all of the LCD lines appearing and disappearing more or less
>randomly. And it has a funny response to being touched, different from the
>other instruments. I can not find any reference to DPS online and the phone
>number in the documentation is no longer working.
>
>Anyone out there know what has happened to them, and perhaps who can repair
>this instrument for me? Aside from the cost, I would hate to break up a nice
>looking panel with a new type.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Van Laak
>N1KJ
>
>
No guarantees but this may help.
If you can open up the instrument remove the LCD from the circuit
board. You'll probably find a rubber like strip between the LCD and
the board. Using a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol clean all mating
surfaces. BTW, that rubber like strip is called a zebra strip; don't
ask me why. Be very careful reassembling the LCD and the strip to the
board. They have to be in perfect alignment to work.
DPS has disappeared, closed and isn't available. I had two DPS fuel
monitors in my RV-6 and was very pleased with them.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
| Subject: | Increased max weight for RV-6A |
Just another thought on this topic. The limiting factor may not only be the
flight structures, but also the landing gear and attachment points.
Consider the design and testing for landing loads was probably performed for
the rated gross weight of the aircraft. Hard landings (which none of us
ever do) may exceed design when at over design weights. I increased my
gross weight of my -6, but only for takeoff. I still follow a max landing
weight of 1600 lbs. This means that takeoffs at heavier weights anticipate
fuel burn down to 1600 lbs. You can get the fuel in for long X-country
work, but land within the designers limits.
Dan Morris
RV-6
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of AJ Yahya
> Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 9:20 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Increased max weight for RV-6A
>
>
> Thanks so much for all the input. I will be doing a full comprehensive
> flight test at the increased weight of 1800 lbs. Present
> calculations shows
> I am still within Van's recommended CG limits.
>
> AJ Yahya
> KL Malaysia
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 February, 2000 10:56 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Increased max weight for RV-6A
>
>
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >>I have a problem here. My recently completed RV-6A weighs
> 1164 lb empty
> > >and
> > >>with 2 x 170 lb pilots, full fuel (228 lb) and 80 lb baggage, the
> aircraft
> > >>max weight is now 1812 lb, exceeding the recommended weight of 1650 lb
> by
> > >>162 lb. My questions are:
> > >>
> > >>- is it safe to fly at this max weight?
> > >>- is there any operational limitation that need to be observed, maybe
> limit
> > >>to +4.4g utility category?
> > >>- any structural modification required?
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >AJ,
> > >
> > >I have no idea what the legal requirements are in Malaysia but as for
> safety
> > >it seems like the main issues are performance and strength.
> In the US we
> > >set our own maximum gross weights and I have set mine at 1700 pounds to
> be
> > >able to carry a good cross country load.
> > >
> > >You must already know how the airplane performs and I suspect
> it performs
> > >just fine. Structurally, although I know it is an oversimplication for
> some
> > >purposes, I like to look at 6g's times the maximum recomended aerobatic
> > >gross weight of 1375 pounds. This gives 8250 pounds effective weight.
> If
> > >you divide 8250 pounds by your weight of 1812 you get 4.55. So 4.4 g's
> > >would seems a reasonable limit for that weight.
> > >
> > >At anything over 1375 pounds, it is my opinion that you should
> limit the
> g
> > >loading to utility category anyway. My personal limit with
> two people in
> > >the airplane is 3.5 g's which is ample for many interesting maneuvers.
> In
> > >any case, the cg limits should be observed. By the way, it has been my
> > >observation that many prospective builders do not understand that our
> > >airplanes are not built to withstand 6 g's with more than one person in
> the
> > >airplane.
> > >
> > >I am the furthest thing from an engineer. This is just the process I
> used.
> > >Maybe an engineer will answer also.
> > >
> > >Larry Pardue
> >
> > Cavaet - I am an engineering graduate, but not a structures
> > specialist, and I haven't really ever been employed to do "hard"
> > engineering.
> >
> > Larry has got the big picture right - the main issues are
> > performance, handling qualities, and structural strength. The
> > calculation of the acceptable g loading at higher weights is not
> > straight forward though. Larry's number of 4.55g at 1812 lb would be
> > fine if all the extra weight was evenly distributed throughout the
> > airframe. But, normally most of the extra weight is in the fuselage,
> > so the wing bending moments tend to increase a bit more than this
> > simple calculation would indicate. You probably don't plan on doing
> > aerobatics with that 80 lb of baggage though. I would limit myself
> > to 6g at 1375 lb, decreasing to 4.4g at 1650 lb, and 3.5g if over
> > 1650 lb. These numbers are a complete SWAG (scientific wild assed
> > guess), so they are worth what you paid for them :-)
> >
> > Extra weight in the wings doesn't hurt nearly as much as extra weight
> > in the fuselage. If you have trouble with this idea, do a "thought
> > experiment". Consider two aircraft, each 1,000 lb gross weight -
> > aircraft #1 has wings that weigh 1,000 lbs, with the weight evenly
> > distributed along the wings, and the fuselage and tail have zero
> > weight. Aircraft #2 has a 1,000 lb fuselage, and the wings and tail
> > have zero weight. If you pull 6g, the wing spar in aircraft #1 has
> > to support the 6,000 effective weight of the fuselage, which puts a
> > large bending moment on the wing spars. All the lift is developed in
> > the wings, and the weight is in the fuselage, so that poor spar is
> > working hard. The wing spars in aircraft #2 have a much easier job
> > of it as the lift and effective weight are both evenly distributed
> > along the spar, so the bending moments are very low.
> >
> > You should also be careful when you explore the handling at both
> > forward and aft. Work your way back to the forward and aft CG limits
> > and heavy weight in several flights, going a bit more forward or aft
> > each flight. Van's recommended CG limits may not be valid at these
> > weights. I haven't flown an RV at extreme forward or aft CG, so the
> > following comments are general in nature. At aft CG the longitudinal
> > stability decreases, until it goes neutral, and then negative. With
> > positive stability, if you trim the aircraft at one speed, you have
> > to hold back pressure to fly at at a lower speed. With neutral
> > stability you don't have to hold any additional stick pressure to fly
> > at any speed you want. With negative stability, if you pitch the
> > nose up slightly to slow the aircraft down, it will continue to pitch
> > up all by itself, and you will have to hold more and more forward
> > pressure the slower you go. Not good.
> >
> > With extreme forward CG you might start to run out of elevator
> > authority at low speed, which could make landings interesting. All
> > this stuff on CG is rather over simplified, but it gives the flavour.
> >
> >
> > Have fun flying,
> >
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ductworks landing lights |
>
>Maybe be a dumb question, but has anyone thought about incorporating a
>projection style light so that the hole in either the wing tip or leading
>edge would be very small? I have been having some brain activity towards
>looking into a way to use these and whether or not they would work. . .any
>feedback?
>
I wonder about the advertised "razor sharp beam." Doesn't sound like what I
really want. I like lots of scatter so I can see things outside of one
small area. Maybe two would work pretty well.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | using 24v accessories |
Is it possible to use a 24 Volt accessory in a 12 volt system. I have
seen some cockpit lights advertised as 24 volt and was wondering if it would
be too much trouble to use these?
Ed Perry
80809
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Replacing top skin |
Listers, Out of six or seven replies I have come to the concenus that it
is easier to fill a small hole than a big one. I will manufacture a patch
and then move the light to the correct location. Since I have already
purchased a replacement non punched skin I will try to return it. If Vans'
doesn't want to make an exchange I will try to make a good deal for anyone
who may have had an unfortunate experience while building their outer
leading edge on the wing.
Thanks again for all the input fellows. I appreciate all the experience out
in RV land.
Doug Murray RV-6 fitting wheel pants tonight.
Southern Alberta
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Replacing top skin
>
>
>I agree with Dennis's conclusion that replacing the whole skin segment
without
>a jig will cause (possibly) a twist, warp, bend or otherwise to be
introduced to
>the wing structure. There is nothing wrong with a patch & a little
poly-filler.
>Remember the stress of the riveting process, droping the bucking bar,
yanking,
>pulling and otherwise manhandleing the wing to place the new skin on is
IMHO)
>greater than a patch. A little access hole near the patch or flush pull
rivets
>is a lot less stressful to the structure. Not to mention the days/weeks
saved
>in the process.
>Patch it, paint it then FLY it...
>
>
>dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net on 02/23/2000 11:00:17 AM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Replacing top skin
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: dgmurray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 11:24 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Replacing top skin
>
>
>>
>> Fellows - while you are all on the topic of match drilling the flat main
>>skin, could I ask a question? I need to replace the outer leading edge
>skin
>>on one wing. I can not match drill the new skin because of the bend, so do
>>you think that back drilling through the rib flanges for one side would
>work
>>and then working the skin up and over the nose while removing the lower
>>colecos would keep every thing tight>
>>Doug Murray RV-6 And I thought I was getting close to being done!
>>Southern Alberta
>>
>
>May I suggest consulting AC43-13 on patches and sketching an internal patch
>to send to Van's for approval. A good glass job at the patch area and
>nobody will know it is patched after painting. Drilling off the leading
>edge skin and reriveting will cause considerable trauma to the structure!
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another surrendered soul |
Steve, I found the pneumatic squeezer REALLY helpful for dimpling. Didn't use
it much for riveting.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Cliff,
I thought about this also. I side stepped the issue by installing a
heated pitot tube instead of the make-it-yourself tube. It's mounted aft of
the spar using a support bracket attached to a rib and a backer plate on the
skin (the Warren Gretz (sp?) kit).
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (fuselage)
Vienna, VA
----------
>From: cliffd(at)accesscom.net
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation
>Date: Wed, Feb 23, 2000, 6:52 PM
>
>
> Greetings -
> Drawing 15 for the 8 wing kit shows the AN833-4D Ell installed in the
> main spar flange. That's a 7/16th hole, right though that beautiful
> spar. Is anybody else a little uneasy about this? Even my tech advisor
> was a little surprised by it.
> I suppose it is because that flange - especially that far outboard -
> is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
> So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so much. Right?
>
> Thanks
>
> Cliff Dominey
> 8A wings (still)
> cliffd(at)accesscom.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: TOOLS again WAS:Another surrendered soul |
The "standard" Tatco squeezer is up to the task of squeezing 1/8" rivets, but
its a lot eaiser to control if you use a 2" or shorter yoke. The larger yokes
flex too much on the larger rivets and its easy to get a tipped shop head. I
started with the 31/2" yoke and now have a thin nose and 2". Some will tell
you that all you need is the 31/2" and a 1-1/2" yoke, but the 2" lets you get
in at an angle to palces the 1-1/2" won't. IMHO, YMMV. Andy Johnson, Wings
On the subject of 1/8" rivets being tough to squeeze with a hand squeezer...
(and they are, unless you've got Popeye's forearms)...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ductworks landing lights |
While at Oshkosh this last summer, I studied the landing lights on Terry
Jantzi's RV-6...it looked like he used halogen projection lights, but I
could be wrong...in any event, his landing lights were very nicely done
and i've always wondered how he did it...if Terry is out there, maybe he
can tell us (hint) or perhaps someone else knows how he did it...
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ductworks landing lights
>
>
> >
> >Maybe be a dumb question, but has anyone thought about incorporating
a
> >projection style light so that the hole in either the wing tip or
leading
> >edge would be very small? I have been having some brain activity
towards
> >looking into a way to use these and whether or not they would work. .
.any
> >feedback?
> >
>
>
> I wonder about the advertised "razor sharp beam." Doesn't sound like
what I
> really want. I like lots of scatter so I can see things outside of
one
> small area. Maybe two would work pretty well.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
In lieu of heat, how about a heated vest from a motorcycle shop if you ride with
the same person often?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rv-8 Left Aileron Skin |
Listers, I have a new, in-the-box, prepunched left aileron skin for an Rv-8
for sale. With shipping, crating, etc., I paid $81.00 for it. Will sell for
$40 or so if you will pay shipping or pick up. I live in Boca Raton, Florida.
Call me at 561-395-4179 and let's make a deal. Andy Johnson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronvandervort(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
Hello Paul,
I enjoyed your treitice on the RMD lights and sure would like to see them
some time if possible. Do I remember correctly that your airplane is not yet
at an airport.
I am based at Glendale with my RV-6, and fly to Falcon fairly often.
I have the RMDs at home waiting for my return. I will be cutting into my
finished wing tips so it would be nice to see how they fit etc.
Ron Vandervort
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
Come by Chandler on your way, and I'll pick you up and you can come by and
see them if you like..it will cost you though.... a ride in your -6!!!
(I'll buy gas!)
My number is 480-961-1085
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ronvandervort(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights
>
> Hello Paul,
>
> I enjoyed your treitice on the RMD lights and sure would like to see them
> some time if possible. Do I remember correctly that your airplane is not
yet
> at an airport.
>
> I am based at Glendale with my RV-6, and fly to Falcon fairly often.
>
> I have the RMDs at home waiting for my return. I will be cutting into my
> finished wing tips so it would be nice to see how they fit etc.
>
> Ron Vandervort
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: S-Tec Auto Pilot Install |
Gary, I just called the S-Tec factory today about this and they are sending
me the info. The pitch servo is straightforward and goes behind the luggage
compartment. I think he said that they use similar brackets to the -6(A).
For the roll, they don't have it drawn up yet but they have pictures of a
test installation in a Texas -8. Sounds similar to Van's trim scheme. The
bridle cable connects to either side of the control column via a pulley.
Give them a call. Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ
jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and
wiring.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Graham <gary(at)colonialmortgage.net>
>
> Has anyone any experience installing an S-Tec System 30 autopilot in an
RV-8?
> If you have let me know how and where you mounted the roll and pitch
servos.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gary Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
I was told that Ray Richter died this past weekend in the Caymen Islands,
cause unknown. He was also a active corporate pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
Hello Cliff and the RV List,
I have an option you may want to consider. Instead of drilling through
the spar flange, your may want to take a look at one of my products. It
is my heated pitot tube mounting bracket kit. It holds either a AN5814
ora PH502-12CR heated pitot tube. With my mountiong bracket kit you do
not need to drill through the spar flange! The bracket looks great on
any of the RVs and comes with very complete instructions and everything
you need for installation. If you are interested in my mounting bracket
kit, I also sell both of the above mentioned heated pitot tubes.
I would not want to drill through the spar flange either!
Take a look at these and all of my other products on my new webpage. The
address is: www.gretzaero.com
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 Cylinder CHT w/Rochester Gauges |
> ...can I rig 4 CHT probes and a 4 way switch and measure all 4 cylinders?
> I know that there are all sorts of dire warnings about changing the length
of
> thermocouple leads, but would this really be a problem if the only length
> change was a 6" piece of wire between the 4 way switch and the gauge?
Electronics International makes a switch for both EGT and CHT probes. I'm
pretty sure I've also seen 4 way EGT or CHT only switches (Wag-Aero?).
The manual that came with my EI system included a section on how to shorten
the wires if need be, and I did so. I suppose it depends on the type of
probes/wires used whether its OK to do or not.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs and holding)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"RV-List: DPS Instruments" (Feb 23, 6:32pm)
| Subject: | Re: DPS Instruments |
>--------------
>
>I have a set of engine instruments in my RV-6 made by DPS Instruments, Inc.,
>of Chino California. They all work fine except for the digital EGT/CHT,
>which has what appears to be a bad display. It has no usable numbers most of
>the time, with all of the LCD lines appearing and disappearing more or less
>randomly. And it has a funny response to being touched, different from the
>other instruments. I can not find any reference to DPS online and the phone
>number in the documentation is no longer working.
>
>Anyone out there know what has happened to them, and perhaps who can repair
>this instrument for me? Aside from the cost, I would hate to break up a nice
>looking panel with a new type.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Van Laak
>N1KJ
>--------------
DPS Instruments is now "DMA Instruments" out of Houston TX. Same gear,
different name. Their address is:
DMA Instruments
14902 Forest Lodge Drive
Houston, Texas 77070
281-379-5430
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Unfinished RV 3 |
Hi There,
anyone have a RV 3 for sale either not completed
or even started? or part thereof.
Please reply personally as I'm not subscribed to the
RV list.
Thanks
Bruce Stewart
Bruce Stewart
Triton Diving Equipment
www.triton-dive.com
Backplates & Harness, Lights 20 w to 250 w
Dive accessories etc only available on the Net.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
I would like to offer my two cents worth on the pitot
issue as I have just installed mine on my 8A. As most
of you know I am in the hangar with George Orndorff
and thanks to him he kept me from making a big mistake
on my system. Instead of drilling through the flange
on the spar bring the pitot elbow aft and drill the
hole for the union fitting in the aft skin. (I am
talking about a non heated system) of course if you
are using a heated pitot system you will need to beef
up the area you are going to install the heated probe.
But using just the pitot line that is unheated you
drill the skin and route your pitot line through your
ribs and terminate at the root (fuselage) end and best
of all no spar drilling. just thought you might want
to know
Glenn Williams
8A wings
--- Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
>
> Cliff,
>
> I thought about this also. I side stepped the
> issue by installing a
> heated pitot tube instead of the make-it-yourself
> tube. It's mounted aft of
> the spar using a support bracket attached to a rib
> and a backer plate on the
> skin (the Warren Gretz (sp?) kit).
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (fuselage)
> Vienna, VA
>
> ----------
> >From: cliffd(at)accesscom.net
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation
> >Date: Wed, Feb 23, 2000, 6:52 PM
> >
>
> cliffd(at)accesscom.net
> >
> > Greetings -
> > Drawing 15 for the 8 wing kit shows the
> AN833-4D Ell installed in the
> > main spar flange. That's a 7/16th hole, right
> though that beautiful
> > spar. Is anybody else a little uneasy about this?
> Even my tech advisor
> > was a little surprised by it.
> > I suppose it is because that flange -
> especially that far outboard -
> > is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
> > So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so
> much. Right?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Cliff Dominey
> > 8A wings (still)
> > cliffd(at)accesscom.net
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: using 24v accessories |
Lights maybe, but they'd be awfully dim if designed for 24V and you were
applying only 12V to them. As far as things such as avionics, it won't
work without a DC to DC converter that makes 24V out of 12V. It's much
easier to use 12V equipment on a 24V system by using a solid state
voltage regulator that takes 24V in and gives 12V out...the other 12V is
dropped across the regulator and dissipated (wasted) as heat.
Scott
edperry64 wrote:
>
>
> Is it possible to use a 24 Volt accessory in a 12 volt system. I have
> seen some cockpit lights advertised as 24 volt and was wondering if it would
> be too much trouble to use these?
>
> Ed Perry
> 80809
>
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another surrendered soul |
I would offer you a challenge. Go to sears and purchase their smallest hand
and portable drill (about 2 lbs). Use it for 1 - 8 hour session. If you
still believe that pulling that hose up/down/over/and around and listening to
the pump going on and off while wearing the ear protectors from the high
pitched sound is an advantage, I will buy the drill from you and pay the
freight. Having one on each end of the wing would have been fabulous and
saved me many steps.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
I want to order the RMD lights. Anyone have the #.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
RMD's phone number is 503-648-0331....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. RMD Lights |
I installed the RMD's because I didn't want to cut the wing metal. The F/G work
required was more than I planned for. There was more F/G work to fair them in &
cut the lens for a perfect fit. Great quality parts at typical aircraft prices.
I should say that the F/G work was more of a poly-fiber filler & sanding rather
than wet lay-ups of F/G. The time set-back was not being able to concentrate for
a full block of work/time . e.g. applying the poly-filler & waiting 24 hours to
sand/shape. Since I was at the hanger at this point, and life sometimes get in
the way, I found myself a week later at the airport continuing the work.....I
was able to install a set of Vans cut-the-wing lights on a rv-6 ...both wings..
in about 6 hrs. start to complete job.......
JDEggers(at)aol.com on 02/23/2000 05:19:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights
Nice try. The lights are also halogen and just a bright. As to cutting over
cutting the wing would require some real effort if you follow the
instructions. I diagree with your simplicity of doing it with glass. There
are people out here that could die just touching fiberglass. Frankly I would
rather take an aluminium splinter.
I did both wings in less than 4 hours and am very happy with the results.
RV8
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>as an A&P mechanic I rely on this aircraft circular
>alot and it is worth the 14.00 you pay at either a
>government bookstore or you can buy it at almost all
>pilot shops across the country. You may be able to
>acess the web and see this book in it,s entirety on
>the government web site that is the printing g.a.o.
>but I am not sure of the address you may have to
>search for it but it may not be accessible as the
>f.a.r.s are just my 2 cents worth.
You can download the .pdf presentation of AC 43.13-1B
from this site:
http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/acs/ac-idx.htm
It's about 14 megabytes in total. You may also have
this document along with FAR21, 23, 25, 43, 61, 67,
71 and 91 along with all of the downloadable articles,
and wirebook drawings, from our website by ordering
the CD rom from our website catalog.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)gci.net> |
Bob DeBorde
RMD Inc. Aircraft Lighting
3648 S.E. Roanoke CT.
Hillsboro, Oregon 97123
(503) 628-6056
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Lead Length |
>
>Bob,
>
>I posted this basic question to the RV-list and got no response...
Sorry, I must have missed it. I scan through about 300 pieces
of list-server traffic a day looking for items on which I can
be helpful . . . they slip by from time to time. . .
>I have a single cylinder CHT system. I'd like to buy 3 more thermocouples
>and run four thermocouples to a 4 way switch, then through a ~6" wire to the
>gauge.
>
>I usually see dire warnings about changing the length of the thermocouple
>leads. What's the scoop?
Thermocouple lead length is critical only for the old, self-powered
termocouple instruments of WWII vintage. Many of these instruments
had accessory resistors mounted external to the instrument so that
the installer could change the lead length and then recompensate
using the external resistor. ANY electronic instrument that reads
thermocouples is not so crippled. You can get a short tutorial
on thermocouples at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
>Also, IF I can't do it that way, could I determine a baseline with a CHT
>probe installed per plans, write down those readings, then hook up the
>(innacurate?) 4 cht system with the switch to see relative differences for
>the purpose of balancing CHT's through baffle mod's? After balancing the
>temps, I could go back to the one CHT system.
It's both practical and not too difficult to put a two pole,
4 position switch in your thermocouple pathways following the
guidlines in the above article. To make the termocouple wires
solderable with ordinary tin-lead solder for switch connections
you need to first "tin" the ends with silver solder. The silver
solder will make the thermocouple alloy solderable with ordinary
materials at more benign temperatures friendly to the rotary
switch.
There are commercial, off the shelf thermocouple switches that
allow you to simply strip the wire and capture it under a screw
driven clamp. Most of these are bulky ol' hogs . . . not terribly
friendly to a modern, tightly spaced lightplane panel.
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi guys,
Boy, that is certainly bad news about Ray. Thank you for the heads up.
Will be watching all the aviation news papers for the details. Thank you.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
Debonairs and I presume, Bonanzas mount a heavy brass heated pitot tube
directly on the skin. My Deb's has been there for 35 years! Maybe the
aerobatic Bonanzas do it differently.
Still, it does look as tho one might get by without cutting into the spar.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
> In lieu of heat, how about a heated vest from a motorcycle shop if you
ride with
> the same person often?
Great idea!! I already have BMW motorcycle heated vests I bought years ago
for my wife and I. And I've already wired in a cigarette lighter plug for
both front and back seats... I'm already there and didn't even realize it.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, fwf plumbing
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 02/24/2000 10:46:29 AM Central Standard Time, MRawls3896
writes:
<<
I just purchased a Rorto-Zip Spiral saw and was wondering if any one else
may have found a good use for it for there project. It looks like it would be
good for Plexi glass aluminum and for cutting those oblong holes.
Mike Rawls (wings) >>
From: MRawls3896(at)aol.com
Full-name: MRawls3896
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:46:29 EST
Subject: Roto Zip
I just purchased a Rorto-Zip Spiral saw and was wondering if any one else
may have found a good use for it for there project. It looks like it would be
good for Plexi glass aluminum and for cutting those oblong holes.
Mike Rawls (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New engine temps |
In a message dated 2/24/00 11:20:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
racaldwell(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I am just eager for the CHT's to
drop after break in so I can climb steeper & longer >>
Rick,
I agree that the volume above the cylinders does not represent any resistance
relative to the flow by the cylinder fins and out the small holes in the
bottom. There seems to be a correlation here locally that folks with high oil
temperatures have low CHT's and vice versa. If I remember correctly your oil
cooler is firewall mounted at an angle to present the minimum airflow turning
angle. My thought is if oil is cool and CHT's are high, then put some
restiction in the oil cooler path so that more air will be diverted to the
cylinders. What is your stable oil temp at 65% cruise?
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: using 24v accessories |
Ed:
I have 4 DC3 eyebrows that are 28 volt. YOU can put GE-330(12v) in if
they are changable.
Page 375 of ASS.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
****************************************************************************
writes:
>
>Lights maybe, but they'd be awfully dim if designed for 24V and you
>were
>applying only 12V to them. As far as things such as avionics, it
>won't
>work without a DC to DC converter that makes 24V out of 12V. It's
>much
>easier to use 12V equipment on a 24V system by using a solid state
>voltage regulator that takes 24V in and gives 12V out...the other 12V
>is
>dropped across the regulator and dissipated (wasted) as heat.
>Scott
>
>
>edperry64 wrote:
>>
>>
>> Is it possible to use a 24 Volt accessory in a 12 volt system. I
>have
>> seen some cockpit lights advertised as 24 volt and was wondering if
>it would
>> be too much trouble to use these?
>>
>> Ed Perry
>> 80809
>>
>> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>>
>
>--
>--Scott--
>1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
>RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
>Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one for
each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you pay
shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone at
817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer to
sell both units as a set as they are brand new. COME
Glenn williams
8A wings
FT. WORTH, TEXAS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Roto Zip |
I got one and love it. Its a big Dremmel. I use the 3-M rol-lock adapter and
spin on the 3-M abrasive & sanding disks. Also ,the cutting disk is used for
everything. I haven't used a hacksaw in years after I discovered the cutting
disk. The handle on the Roto-Zip makes for easy use. The Informercial on the
Roto-zip is a hoot...........I normally don't buy anything that has to resort to
that kind of thing but the tool is really that useful. Home Depo for $70.00 I
think. It has a special spirial cut drills that work too. All in all a great
tool.
MRawls3896(at)aol.com on 02/24/2000 12:17:56 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: Roto Zip
In a message dated 02/24/2000 10:46:29 AM Central Standard Time, MRawls3896
writes:
<<
I just purchased a Rorto-Zip Spiral saw and was wondering if any one else
may have found a good use for it for there project. It looks like it would be
good for Plexi glass aluminum and for cutting those oblong holes.
Mike Rawls (wings) >>
From: MRawls3896(at)aol.com
Full-name: MRawls3896
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:46:29 EST
Subject: Roto Zip
I just purchased a Rorto-Zip Spiral saw and was wondering if any one else
may have found a good use for it for there project. It looks like it would be
good for Plexi glass aluminum and for cutting those oblong holes.
Mike Rawls (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | C/S Prop Spinner Template |
Does anyone have a template for the spinner cutout for a Hartzel C/S prop?
I recall that Sensenich has one on their web site for the fixed pitch but
I've not seen one for the C/S.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New engine temps |
Bernie, That was the first thing I did. I have a fiberglass duct leading
to my firewall (vertical flow) mounted oil cooler. I blocked off 75% at 75%
power and get 90-94C oil temps (105C is redline.) I also blocked some of
the opening under the heads as you pointed out when you visited. Don't know
much else to do except open up the carb jet to get a richer mixture. I only
have 110F EGT rise when leaning to peak.
Rick
>From: Kerrjb(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: New engine temps
>Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:41:05 EST
>
>
>In a message dated 2/24/00 11:20:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>racaldwell(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
><< I am just eager for the CHT's to
> drop after break in so I can climb steeper & longer >>
>
>
>Rick,
>
>I agree that the volume above the cylinders does not represent any
>resistance
>relative to the flow by the cylinder fins and out the small holes in the
>bottom. There seems to be a correlation here locally that folks with high
>oil
>temperatures have low CHT's and vice versa. If I remember correctly your
>oil
>cooler is firewall mounted at an angle to present the minimum airflow
>turning
>angle. My thought is if oil is cool and CHT's are high, then put some
>restiction in the oil cooler path so that more air will be diverted to the
>cylinders. What is your stable oil temp at 65% cruise?
>
>Bernie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
>
>
> Great idea!! I already have BMW motorcycle heated vests I bought years
ago
> for my wife and I. And I've already wired in a cigarette lighter plug for
> both front and back seats... I'm already there and didn't even realize it.
>
> Randy Lervold
Randy:
Any idea how many amps such a vest draws?
Doug Weiler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.usyd.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Increased max weight for RV-6A |
Dan Morris wrote:
>
> Just another thought on this topic. The limiting factor may not only be the
> flight structures, but also the landing gear and attachment points.
> Consider the design and testing for landing loads was probably performed for
> the rated gross weight of the aircraft. Hard landings (which none of us
> ever do) may exceed design when at over design weights. I increased my
> gross weight of my -6, but only for takeoff. I still follow a max landing
> weight of 1600 lbs. This means that takeoffs at heavier weights anticipate
> fuel burn down to 1600 lbs. You can get the fuel in for long X-country
> work, but land within the designers limits.
>
> Dan Morris
> RV-6
Dan,
This was the gist of the reply I got fromVan. He said that he would approve a
MTOW of 1750 lb but that the max landing weight should remain at 1650 lb
Leo Davies
VH-LDX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/24/00 5:45:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, Rvmils(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I want to order the RMD lights. Anyone have the #. >>
Check the Yeller Pages.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central Standard Time,
willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one for
each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you pay
shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone at
817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer to
sell both units as a set as they are brand new. COME
Glenn williams
8A wings
FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>>
Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free shipping when I purchased
mine from team rocket last week.
Chris WIlcox
F-1 ROcket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
The Rocket folks have a nice pitot that installs on the skin (like the
Gretz), not through the flange -- about $95 for the non-heated one. I got
one, but haven't installed it yet.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Concerning drilling hoes through the spar flange for the pitot tube,
> previous comments included:
>
> > > I suppose it is because that flange - especially that far
> outboard -
> > >is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
> > > So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so much. Right?
> > >
> The vertical bending stress is
> > being mostly carried by the spar web anyway.
> >
> I disagree. The bending stresses are primarily resisted by the flanges.
> The web is primarily resisting the shear stress. As for whether that
> matters here, I can't say. Maybe Kevin could comment.
>
> Terry Watson
> 8A tanks (almost done!)
> Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
Correction: It totaled $160, not $95. -Larry
=========================
The Rocket folks have a nice pitot that installs on the skin (like the
Gretz), not through the flange -- about $95 for the non-heated one. I got
one, but haven't installed it yet.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Concerning drilling hoes through the spar flange for the pitot tube,
> previous comments included:
>
> > > I suppose it is because that flange - especially that far
> outboard -
> > >is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
> > > So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so much. Right?
> > >
> The vertical bending stress is
> > being mostly carried by the spar web anyway.
> >
> I disagree. The bending stresses are primarily resisted by the flanges.
> The web is primarily resisting the shear stress. As for whether that
> matters here, I can't say. Maybe Kevin could comment.
>
> Terry Watson
> 8A tanks (almost done!)
> Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
When I go there, all I get is the frontcover. When opening it with adobe
there seems to be a link to some other page but I only get error
messages.
What am i doing wrong here.
Gert
>
> You can download the .pdf presentation of AC 43.13-1B
> from this site:
>
> http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/acs/ac-idx.htm
>
> It's about 14 megabytes in total. You may also have
> this document along with FAR21, 23, 25, 43, 61, 67,
> 71 and 91 along with all of the downloadable articles,
> and wirebook drawings, from our website by ordering
> the CD rom from our website catalog.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> ( time you try something, and it works. )
> ( One fails forward toward success. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator |
Does anybody have a picture of the inline LED module for the LRI on their web
page? Would like to see one. Any comments about the inline LED unit would
also be appreciated.
Dale Ensing
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re:Rv8 pitot tube installation |
Cobra aircraft has the non-heated pitot for $89.50 and the heated one for
$125. The bracket cost me $49. Came with installation instructions that were
very easy to follow. Best deal i have found.
Paul
RV6 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dustin Norlund <dustin(at)busprod.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Kit On Ebay |
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=269061583
--
Dustin Norlund
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: C/S Prop Spinner Template |
> Does anyone have a template for the spinner cutout for a Hartzel C/S
prop?
> I recall that Sensenich has one on their web site for the fixed pitch but
> I've not seen one for the C/S.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
My spinner kit from Van's came with the template. Call Van's, I suspect
they'll send you one.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
If you don't have Adobe's Acrobat reader installed then you will get errors.
Get the reader FREE from www.adobe.com The down load button is down near
the bottom of the page.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Date: Thursday, February 24, 2000 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AC 43.13-1
>
>
>When I go there, all I get is the frontcover. When opening it with adobe
>there seems to be a link to some other page but I only get error
>messages.
>
>What am i doing wrong here.
>
>Gert
>
>>
>> You can download the .pdf presentation of AC 43.13-1B
>> from this site:
>>
>> http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/acs/ac-idx.htm
>>
>> It's about 14 megabytes in total. You may also have
>> this document along with FAR21, 23, 25, 43, 61, 67,
>> 71 and 91 along with all of the downloadable articles,
>> and wirebook drawings, from our website by ordering
>> the CD rom from our website catalog.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> --------------------------------------------
>> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
>> ( time you try something, and it works. )
>> ( One fails forward toward success. )
>> ( C.F. Kettering )
>> --------------------------------------------
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>>
>
>--
>
>Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
>any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: DPS Instruments |
Matt,
Outstanding! They can't be 20 miles away. Thanks much, and although I don't
jump in much I am a big admirer of your lists and a contributor to your
support fund.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top |
I am going to fasten the top S-cowl aft curved section with screws. I
would like to hear from those who have gone this route. In particular,
spacing and screw type. I'm thinking at the moment of 17 (about 3-inch
spacing) #8 round head screws; 2nd choice 17 flat head #8s in finishing
washers if my 0.150 thick cowl will handle that.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve Indicator |
check out http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 5:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lift Reserve Indicator
>
> Does anybody have a picture of the inline LED module for the LRI on their
web
> page? Would like to see one. Any comments about the inline LED unit
would
> also be appreciated.
> Dale Ensing
> 6A finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Ten Best Tools |
Vern & John,
I got this off the RV list service I watch for Lyle. I don't know about
you but I got a real good laugh from this.
Karl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-aerobatic ,
list-aviation ,
list-avionics ,
list-beech ,
list-cessna ,
list-engines ,
list-ez ,
list-glasair ,
list-homebuilt ,
list-lancair ,
list-piper ,
list-rocket ,
list-rvcanada ,
list-seaplane ,
list-tailwind ,
list-warbird ,
list-yak ,
list-zenith
| Subject: | New Gretz Aero website! |
Greetings to all,
I am glad to announce that my new webpage is up and running. If you
would like to see the aircraft products I offer, and the information I
provide on options for equipment installed on aircraft, you may want to
check out my website. Be sure to bookmark this site as it will continue
to grow.
The webpage address is:
http://www.gretzaero.com
I hope you find it interesting.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
>
>Concerning drilling hoes through the spar flange for the pitot tube,
>previous comments included:
>
>> > I suppose it is because that flange - especially that far outboard -
>> >is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
>> > So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so much. Right?
>> >
>The vertical bending stress is
>> being mostly carried by the spar web anyway.
>>
>I disagree. The bending stresses are primarily resisted by the flanges.
>The web is primarily resisting the shear stress. As for whether that
>matters here, I can't say. Maybe Kevin could comment.
>
>Terry Watson
For what its worth - most of the strength in bending comes from the flange,
so this hole does weaken the spar quite a bit in that location. But, the
amount of bending loads decreases significantly as you go outboard, which
is why the spar bars decrease in thickness as you go outboard, and why the
spar bar and waffle plate don't go all the way to the tips. The spar bars
decrease in thickness in discrete steps, but the bending stress decreases
linearly. The result is that the different spanwise locations are being
stressed to different levels. Some parts are working a bit harder than
others.
The wing is only as strong as the weakest point. As long as the spot with
the pitot tube hole is still not the weakest point it doesn't matter that
this point is not as strong as it otherwise would be. Van is a mechanical
engineer - he knows all this stuff, and he certainly would have calculated
the stresses in each part of the wing, and ensured that this pitot tube
hole was not an issue. Vans did several static load tests, and I would
assume that they used wings with pitot tube holes, as the tests would not
be valid otherwise.
I elected to put a Gretz mount for a heated pitot tube on my aircraft,
because I plan to fly some IFR. I would not hesitate to put a hole in the
spar for the pitot tube if I was building a VFR aircraft.
But, you need to be comfortable with this, otherwise it will bother you
every time you pull g, and decrease your enjoyment of the aircraft. So, if
you are not comfortable, by all means do something else. If you don't want
a Gretz mount, you could use the info on sheet metal repairs in AC43.13-1B
to design a doubler for the spar to return that area to its original
strength. You need to read AC43.13-1B carefully though, otherwise you
could end up building in a stress concentration where the doubler
terminates, which could reduce the fatigue life. You probably should
consult with a practicing structures engineer if you go down this road.
Take care,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation |
I agree. Investigate the heated pitot tube. If you are not sure whether or
not you will put instruments in the plane, this is a good contingency plan
for not much money. I will have a IFR rated plane, not necessarily for IFR,
but just for night flying. Check the records. The RV series is a very
responsive plane, and you don't have to loose visual reference over water or
a desert very long before you're in trouble.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Froehlich <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 8:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation
>
> Cliff,
>
> I thought about this also. I side stepped the issue by installing a
> heated pitot tube instead of the make-it-yourself tube. It's mounted aft
of
> the spar using a support bracket attached to a rib and a backer plate on
the
> skin (the Warren Gretz (sp?) kit).
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (fuselage)
> Vienna, VA
>
> ----------
> >From: cliffd(at)accesscom.net
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation
> >Date: Wed, Feb 23, 2000, 6:52 PM
> >
>
> >
> > Greetings -
> > Drawing 15 for the 8 wing kit shows the AN833-4D Ell installed in the
> > main spar flange. That's a 7/16th hole, right though that beautiful
> > spar. Is anybody else a little uneasy about this? Even my tech advisor
> > was a little surprised by it.
> > I suppose it is because that flange - especially that far outboard -
> > is not carrying any stresses to be concerned with.
> > So, just drill it and stop thinking about it so much. Right?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Cliff Dominey
> > 8A wings (still)
> > cliffd(at)accesscom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
Try this link http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/
JDHeath
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
----- Original Message -----
From: John D. Heath
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: Hole finder
----- Original Message -----
From: John D. Heath
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 8:42 PM
Subject: Hole finder
There is such a thing you know ! About any sheet metal man can show you one
!
But in lieu of that, I'll try to describe how to make one.
You will need about 2 feet of steel banding material, as is used to package
some boxes for shipping and the like, and a 1/2 inch piece of drill shaft,
Use your imagination here, the same size as the hole you're trying to
locate. A machine screw and nut,the proper size, might work better for you.
Cut about 3 or 4 inches off the end of the banding material, and cut the
remainder in half.
Stack the banding material with the short piece at one end, between the two
longer pieces. Drill and shoot 2 0r 3 rivets through all three pieces. You
DON'T want this to move like a pair of scissors.
Use your bench grinder to round and dress up the ends. Then in the end
opposite the riveted end, drill one hole through both pieces with a drill
the same size as the hole you are locating.
Insert the 1/2 inch piece of drill shaft just barely through ONE of the
banding material pieces, from the outside to the center and braze it in
place between the two blades Got tired of typing "Banding Material" Only
ONE blade has the pin brazed to it .
Again, this is where you might want to use a machine screw and nut.
The drill shaft is inserted into the existing rivet hole in the airframe
with the new sheet metal to be installed, between the blades.
That leaves the blade with the hole in it on top and aligned with the hole
in the airframe, Ready to be center punched and drilled.
Like any tool, how well it works depends on how well you make it and how
well you use it. Experiment first.Hope it helps someone.
J D Heath
Still RV-8 Dreaming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>
>When I go there, all I get is the frontcover. When opening it with adobe
>there seems to be a link to some other page but I only get error
>messages.
>
>What am i doing wrong here.
>
>Gert
Hmmm . . . that link is indeed to the first page
of the document with hyperlinks to the index which
will then make you download each section one at a time
and save it . . . there are 92 files! What a bummer.
Can I interest you in a CD?
I just picked up a new dialup account for use while
I'm on the road. I think it came with 20MB of drive
space I don't really need. I'll see if I can put the
entire AC43-13 document up as a single .zip file.
I'll post a new URL if I can get it up where everyone
can get at it.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: C/S Prop Spinner Template |
> > Does anyone have a template for the spinner cutout for a Hartzel C/S
> prop?
> > I recall that Sensenich has one on their web site for the fixed pitch
but
> > I've not seen one for the C/S.
> >
> > Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> > Hampshire, IL C38
>
> My spinner kit from Van's came with the template. Call Van's, I suspect
> they'll send you one.
>
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN 6A
I misunderstood the question with my first answer above (the original
question was clear, my thinking was not). There was no template for the
prop blade cutout, I was thinking of the spinner back plate. It was the
classic fit/grind/rotate blades/grind/etc. method that worked. Made a
couple of 2x2 clamps for the prop blade to help rotate it. I suppose I put
the spinner on and off around 20 times during this process.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-8 REAR SEAT HEAT |
> Any idea how many amps such a vest draws?
> Doug Weiler
Not at the moment, I'll have to research it. My guess is 8-12 amps though.
They come with a coiled cord on them with an inline switch. I can't imagine
that cord being designed for 20 amps. My cigarette lighter circuits are each
on their own 10 amp breaker. Since I haven't strung the wire I could easily
bump them to 15 with appropriate wire.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top |
Dennis,
We used 7 or 8, #6 flush screws along the top of the top cowl with
countersunk washers across the six cowl and got along fine. On the "S"
cowl, I laid up 3 or 4 layers of 3" wide fiberglass tape (ACS) along the
edge to build up thickness for machine countersinking but mainly to bring
the thinner cowl "up to grade" with the fuselage. I extended the tape to
lap onto the honeycomb area and trimmed the excess off in the green cure
state.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
>
>I am going to fasten the top S-cowl aft curved section with screws. I
>would like to hear from those who have gone this route. In particular,
>spacing and screw type. I'm thinking at the moment of 17 (about 3-inch
>spacing) #8 round head screws; 2nd choice 17 flat head #8s in finishing
>washers if my 0.150 thick cowl will handle that.
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage jig |
Hi Bob,
I just received and e-mail from Paul L. Stanczyk, in Aurora, CO. He has a jig
which he'll let me have. I will probably go down and get it next weekend (not
this one) if Kenny doesn't get back to me.
I have been working on fuselage parts. I have the firewall, and all bulkheads
completed, deburred and primed bagage and seat ribs, as well as other misc.
parts.
That should help us get a good start on the fuselage.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronvandervort(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
Thanks Harvey,
Coming from you is a good reference. Glad you enjoy the shirt. I hope it
fits OK.
Ron V.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
refuse hmmm
Glenn Williams
--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
> Standard Time,
> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
> for
> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
> pay
> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
> at
> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
> to
> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
> COME
>
> Glenn williams
> 8A wings
> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
> >>
>
> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
> shipping when I purchased
> mine from team rocket last week.
>
> Chris WIlcox
> F-1 ROcket
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Pitot Tube Installation Thanks Kevin for the cool |
head
For those of us who are purchaseing the QB wings, we have little choice when
it comes to the RV's. This hole is already cut. In-so, even if we don't use
the hole it must be repaired. I don't know which would be worst because I'm
not a structural engineer. I have ask Van's to comment on this because of
the commentary and believe him to be the single expert on the loads. I hope
he responds soon.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aligning Gear Leg fairings |
I found a method to align the gear leg fairings that is simple, quick,
and very, very accurate that involves just a plumb bob, chalk like, 3
foot steel ruler and a transit - level (Home Depot - $21.00 rental). It
only took me a few hours to do both fairings and that includes the head
scratching. (The second fairing only took about 10 minutes). This
method avoids strings everywhere, the tail does not have to be on the
plane, and only one easy measurement is required. If anyone is
interested, contact me offlist and I'll tell you how to do it.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Length |
t.au>
>I have a Rocky Mountains engine monitor and plan to set it up to monitor all
>four cht's and egt's. An electronics savvy friend of mine modified a video
>switching/sequencing kit which has 8 small relays so that I could take 8
>thermocouples and drive them through to the monitor and it would cycle
>through each one in turn (with adjustable delay set by a potentiometer).
>I'm just about to install it now. Would you anticipate any problems with
>this set-up?
Can't tell. I think there's a risk that it will not. Video is
generally carried on coaxial cable with all signals sharing
a common ground via chassis connections and shielding. Switching
in this product may well be carried out in manner I've depicted
in Figure 14-7A of the thermocouple article found at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
For error free switching of thermocouples, you need two pole
switching with resonable care to to exactly the same thing to
both sides of the thermocouple path to avoid introduction
of un-compensated new thermocouples that cause error.
>Can I mount it above the radio stack or should I put it
>further away from the panel to avoid any noise getting into the audio
>system?
Thermocouple wiring carries no noise . . . it may be routed
with other wires and close to potential noise victims.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top |
FWIW--I think the 100 countersunk flatheads with Tinnerman washers
can't be beat for looks. And it's probably a good idea to reinforce the
cowl edges with the fiberglass tape, anyway. I used #8 screws.
#2 FWIW I used #8's...the #6 seemed to small for me. Also, I located some brass
c/s screws (120 degree) to use because of the 100 or so times I needed to sinch
down the cowl for fitting other items. The S/S or steel screws take their toll
on the nutplates...the brass saves the nutplates and runs in & out easier withy
my angled Mikettta drill. With the angled drill it takes less than a minute to
remove all the screws.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Merl Raisbeck <raisbeck(at)uwyo.edu> |
| Subject: | Al cowling/fairings |
I'm toying with the idea of beating aluminum replacements for the
fiberglass parts on our -8. Aside from the obvious constraints of time
and difficulty (and keeping the thing polished) can anyone give me a
good reason why this is or isn't a good idea? None of the fairings are
structural and I don't think that it would be too difficult to
extrapolate the necessary strength for the cowl from something with
similar performance such as a Bonanza.
I've done a quick search of the archives and can't find anything.
--
Merl Raisbeck DVM, PhD
raisbeck(at)uwyo.edu Common sense isn't
ph (307) 742-6638 - Lazarus Long
fax (307) 721-2051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au> |
QUIT E_MAILING ME THIS STUFF. I NEVER AUTHORIZED THIS SO QUIT!!
Russell King
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 11:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au>
>
>>I have a Rocky Mountains engine monitor and plan to set it up to monitor
all
>>four cht's and egt's. An electronics savvy friend of mine modified a
video
>>switching/sequencing kit which has 8 small relays so that I could take 8
>>thermocouples and drive them through to the monitor and it would cycle
>>through each one in turn (with adjustable delay set by a potentiometer).
>>I'm just about to install it now. Would you anticipate any problems with
>>this set-up?
>
> Can't tell. I think there's a risk that it will not. Video is
> generally carried on coaxial cable with all signals sharing
> a common ground via chassis connections and shielding. Switching
> in this product may well be carried out in manner I've depicted
> in Figure 14-7A of the thermocouple article found at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
>
> For error free switching of thermocouples, you need two pole
> switching with resonable care to to exactly the same thing to
> both sides of the thermocouple path to avoid introduction
> of un-compensated new thermocouples that cause error.
>
>>Can I mount it above the radio stack or should I put it
>>further away from the panel to avoid any noise getting into the audio
>>system?
>
> Thermocouple wiring carries no noise . . . it may be routed
> with other wires and close to potential noise victims.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> ( time you try something, and it works. )
> ( One fails forward toward success. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top |
QUIT MAILING THIS STUFF TO! QUIT IT NOW!!!!
Russell King
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top
>
>
>FWIW--I think the 100 countersunk flatheads with Tinnerman washers
>can't be beat for looks. And it's probably a good idea to reinforce the
>cowl edges with the fiberglass tape, anyway. I used #8 screws.
>
>#2 FWIW I used #8's...the #6 seemed to small for me. Also, I located some
brass
>c/s screws (120 degree) to use because of the 100 or so times I needed to
sinch
>down the cowl for fitting other items. The S/S or steel screws take their
toll
>on the nutplates...the brass saves the nutplates and runs in & out easier
withy
>my angled Mikettta drill. With the angled drill it takes less than a minute
to
>remove all the screws.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Al cowling/fairings |
Merl Raisbeck wrote:
>
> I'm toying with the idea of beating aluminum replacements for the
> fiberglass parts on our -8. (snip)
>
> I've done a quick search of the archives and can't find anything.
> --
> Merl Raisbeck DVM, PhD
> raisbeck(at)uwyo.edu Common sense isn't
> ph (307) 742-6638 - Lazarus Long
>
Merl-
I don't remember who it was, but there was an -8 at Oshkosh last year with
aluminum tips on the tail feathers. I definitely remember a couple of
comments that should be in the archives. The builder answered a question
that started something like "whose RV-8 was that that looked like it was
machined out of billet aluminum.." maybe a search under some of those
words would pull it up.
I did take some pictures of the tail feathers that I could probably locate
and scan in if you're interested.
FWIW, the sheet metal artists I know feel that they could make the
fairings much more quickly out of aluminum, but I think this is totally
skill dependent. I think fiberglass is easier for us amateurs.
Jame Freeman
RV8QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum System Plumbing |
Fellow builders,
Would anyone care to enlighten me regarding how they plumbed their vacuum system?
Specifically, I only have one vacuum instrument, the artificial horizon. So I
need to go from
the regulator (-6 connection) to the artificial horizon (3/8" pipe thread), to
the filter ( slip on
tube) .... and somewhere in there I need to branch off to the vacuum gauge.
On page 314 of the ACS manual they show a diagram of the RAPCO vacuum system.
Here
they have a neat little 3/8" fitting on the back of the artificial horizon that
has a 1/4" Tee fitting,
which goes to the vacuum gauge. I'd love to get my hands on a couple of those
little gems,
but the ACS technical guru says the don't sell that gizmo separately. (I already
have a
vacuum pump, regulator and filter, so I'm not sending them a check for $635 for
the RAPCO
kit.) He suggested I come up with the plumbing using Nylo-seal fittings (pg 113).
Well, I
don't see how it is done with those fittings.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, getting closer!
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | AeroElectric East Coast Seminar - March 11/12 |
All,
Time is fast approaching.
Now is the time to contact Bob Nuckolls to make your reservation.
He can be reached at: WWW.Aeroelectric.com
We (EAA# 334) have contacted the following motels:
Motel 6 @ (800) 466-8356 $42/night (in East Lyme) (exit 74 off RT 95)
Howard Johnson Express Inn @ (860) 445-0220 $40/night (1/4 mile from Groton
airport).
Don't miss Aeroelectric's East Coast Seminar.
Hope to see you there.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (installing systems)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Al cowling/fairings |
Dick Martin owns the -8 that I think you're talking about. He's got all
sorts of modifications done to that thing. I've got a couple of pictures of
his plane on my web site. I took a picture of his wingtips and you can see
the aluminum tail tips but they are not close up. The cowl picture his
modified Sam James cowl with camlocks.
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/Dick%20Martin.htm
Mike & Beth Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 01:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Al cowling/fairings
>
>
> Merl Raisbeck wrote:
>
> >
> > I'm toying with the idea of beating aluminum replacements for the
> > fiberglass parts on our -8. (snip)
> >
> > I've done a quick search of the archives and can't find anything.
> > --
> > Merl Raisbeck DVM, PhD
> > raisbeck(at)uwyo.edu Common sense isn't
> > ph (307) 742-6638 - Lazarus Long
> >
>
> Merl-
>
> I don't remember who it was, but there was an -8 at Oshkosh last year with
> aluminum tips on the tail feathers. I definitely remember a couple of
> comments that should be in the archives. The builder answered a question
> that started something like "whose RV-8 was that that looked like it was
> machined out of billet aluminum.." maybe a search under some of those
> words would pull it up.
>
> I did take some pictures of the tail feathers that I could probably locate
> and scan in if you're interested.
>
> FWIW, the sheet metal artists I know feel that they could make the
> fairings much more quickly out of aluminum, but I think this is totally
> skill dependent. I think fiberglass is easier for us amateurs.
>
> Jame Freeman
> RV8QB fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Vacuum System Plumbing |
Clay:
The air movement should start with the filter. Then feed the AI. From the
Ai you go to the regulator, then to the pump that is sucking the air. You
can Tee off to a gauge if you want. I assume you will be VFR.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
****************************************************************************
>
>Fellow builders,
>Would anyone care to enlighten me regarding how they plumbed their
>vacuum system?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
You may need to upgrade your version of Acrobat to see the links.
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gert
> Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 7:42 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: AC 43.13-1
>
>
>
>
> When I go there, all I get is the frontcover. When opening it with adobe
> there seems to be a link to some other page but I only get error
> messages.
>
> What am i doing wrong here.
>
> Gert
>
> >
> > You can download the .pdf presentation of AC 43.13-1B
> > from this site:
> >
> > http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/acs/ac-idx.htm
> >
> > It's about 14 megabytes in total. You may also have
> > this document along with FAR21, 23, 25, 43, 61, 67,
> > 71 and 91 along with all of the downloadable articles,
> > and wirebook drawings, from our website by ordering
> > the CD rom from our website catalog.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> > --------------------------------------------
> > ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> > ( time you try something, and it works. )
> > ( One fails forward toward success. )
> > ( C.F. Kettering )
> > --------------------------------------------
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com
> >
>
> --
>
> Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
> any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AC 43.13-1 cant read. |
Actually, sometimes you need to down rev your acrobat reader. Try opening
the acrobat program first and then select the file. The auto start sometimes
gets confused...
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mkraus01(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-4 Wing Question |
I purchased a RV-4 wing from a 3rd party and am trying to piece it all
together (it is unstarted). I have a couple of questions.
1) What parts compromise the F404 fuselage pieces?? I cannot find any of
them and I believe Vans ships these with the wing kit. I see F404A-R (2),
F404A-L (2), F404C, and F404D. Am I missing something here???
2) I assume that the left wing and right wing are a mirror image. Therefore
drawing 9 will be mirrored for the other wing (as far as which way the rib
flanges point). Is this correct??
3) I have come up with extra ribs, I have found from the prints that I should
have the following (I'm talking ribs at the leading edge only):
Left Wing:
W409R (1), W409L (6), W408L (1), T403L (1), T404L (2), T404R (1), T403R (1)
Right Wing (mirror of above):
W409L (1), W409R (6), W408R (1), T403R (1), T404R (2), T404l (1), T403L (1)
I have some others left over after this, is what I have above correct and do
I indeed have extra ribs, or are there ribs used in other places that I am
missing???
Thanks for the advice
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
Anybody going to Fla-Bob on Saturday? That's Riverside CA. for those who
don't know about it.
Ed Perry
80809
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com> |
Hi Rick,
My engine came with the vacuum pump and I found a used regulator and filter (clean)
for
next to nothing, so I went that way. If you are just going to have one gyro as
I have (in case I
stumble into a cloud at night) then I would go with the electric gyro. Electric
saves weight
and time.
Clay
>> ** Original Message follows...
>
> Clay . . . this is probably not relevant . . . have you thought of skipping
> vacuum and going with an electric artificial horizon? Yes, they are
> expensive . . . but when it is all said and done, particularly when you only
> have one instrument needing vacuum, the cost differential isn't too terribly
> bad. You don't need to respond . . . I'm just mulling this over. I've seen
> the RAPCO kit and you already have the major components. In my case I'd
> have to invest in the RAPCO, plus plumb all of it.
> Rick Jory (RV8A)
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum System Plumbing |
Thanks for the responses guys. Let me refine my questions a little bit.
1) I have a two hole vacuum gauge. According to Tony B. (pg. 288 of Sportplane
Construction Techniques) a two-holer is designed to measure the pressure differential
across
a gyro instrument. As such, I need to "Tee" off of both the inflow and outflow
of the artificial
horizon. The "Tee" needs to split each 3/8" hose with a 1/4" hose connection (which
will go
to the vacuum gauge). Got any idea where I could find such a "Tee" fitting (3/8
x 1/4 x 3/8)?
Part number?
2) On pg. 286 of Tony B's book, he says "Nylo-seal plastic fittings are adequate
for simple
VFR (that's me) installations but the Airborne Low-Loss fittings (expensive) are
considered
the best in the business." Well, in addition to my "Tee" problem mentioned above,
I need to
go from a -8 size pipe fitting at the regulator to a -6 size pipe fitting at the
artificial horizon.
Any suggestions on how I step my hose down using a Nylo-seal or an Airborn fitting?
Heck,
I would even use Aeroquip hose fittings if I could find the appropriate "Tee" (problem
1) and
use an AN919 reducer to step down the hose size.
Thanks. It does help me think through the problems when I have to put them in
writing. Any
ideas?
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, Vacuum systems suck
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Wing Question |
Hi Mike,
See comments below:
> ** Original Message follows...
> 1) What parts compromise the F404 fuselage pieces?? I cannot find any of
> them and I believe Vans ships these with the wing kit. I see F404A-R (2),
> F404A-L (2), F404C, and F404D. Am I missing something here???
--- To my recollection, everything you see on drawing 13 should have come with
the wings.
These were pre-drilled with your particular set of wing spars.
> 2) I assume that the left wing and right wing are a mirror image. Therefore
> drawing 9 will be mirrored for the other wing (as far as which way the rib
> flanges point). Is this correct??
--- Yep. Drawing 9 gets it all done --- mirror image for the right wing. To my
recollection,
the only difference will be that the left wing will also have the pitot tube plumbed
through it
and a doubler plate on the top inboard few ribs so you don't crush the aluminum
when you
get in and out of the airplane.
>
> 3) I have come up with extra ribs, I have found from the prints that I should
> have the following (I'm talking ribs at the leading edge only):
>
> Left Wing:
> W409R (1), W409L (6), W408L (1), T403L (1), T404L (2), T404R (1), T403R (1)
>
> Right Wing (mirror of above):
> W409L (1), W409R (6), W408R (1), T403R (1), T404R (2), T404l (1), T403L (1)
>
> I have some others left over after this, is what I have above correct and do
> I indeed have extra ribs, or are there ribs used in other places that I am
> missing???
>
---- Hmm. Weird. Maybe you do have extras. Mine came labelled --- are your's
labelled?
If so, you can track down exactly which ones you have too many of --- or maybe
in the
process of checking each rib label you'll discover some other explanation.
Good luck!
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, still work'n on it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
Ed, weather permitting there are a bunch of us going on Sat. Look for a
Cessna 210 with 5 or 6 RVs in formation!
Walt RV-6A N79WH
6-Pack Air Group
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum System Plumbing |
In a message dated 2/25/00 12:02:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
clayfly(at)libertybay.com writes:
<< On page 314 of the ACS manual they show a diagram of the RAPCO vacuum
system. Here
they have a neat little 3/8" fitting on the back of the artificial horizon
that has a 1/4" Tee fitting,
which goes to the vacuum gauge. I'd love to get my hands on a couple of
those little gems,
but the ACS technical guru says the don't sell that gizmo separately. >>
If Rapco wants to be that way then get the Airborne (P/N 1K31-4-6-4)
equivalent from WagAero P/N G-681-000 ($8.50 ea). <http://www.wagaero.com>
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan & Patty Krueger <pndkrueg(at)gulfsurf.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum System Plumbing |
Clay Smith wrote:
>
> they have a neat little 3/8" fitting on the back of the artificial horizon that
has a 1/4" Tee fitting,
> which goes to the vacuum gauge. I'd love to get my hands on a couple of those
little gems,
>
>
> -Clay - Give Wag-Aero a call. I bought two of the tees that you are looking for
from them a while back.
> They are not in the current catalog - but they still may have some.
Dan Krueger
RV-6A Panel & elec next
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au> |
-----Original Message-----
From: rking(at)dbworldnet.com <rking(at)dbworldnet.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au>
>
>QUIT E_MAILING ME THIS STUFF. I NEVER AUTHORIZED THIS SO QUIT!!
>
>Russell King
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>To: aaaron(at)tvp.com.au
>Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 11:03 AM
>Subject: RV-List: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au>
>
>
>
>>
>>>I have a Rocky Mountains engine monitor and plan to set it up to monitor
>all
>>>four cht's and egt's. An electronics savvy friend of mine modified a
>video
>>>switching/sequencing kit which has 8 small relays so that I could take 8
>>>thermocouples and drive them through to the monitor and it would cycle
>>>through each one in turn (with adjustable delay set by a potentiometer).
>>>I'm just about to install it now. Would you anticipate any problems with
>>>this set-up?
>>
>> Can't tell. I think there's a risk that it will not. Video is
>> generally carried on coaxial cable with all signals sharing
>> a common ground via chassis connections and shielding. Switching
>> in this product may well be carried out in manner I've depicted
>> in Figure 14-7A of the thermocouple article found at:
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
>>
>> For error free switching of thermocouples, you need two pole
>> switching with resonable care to to exactly the same thing to
>> both sides of the thermocouple path to avoid introduction
>> of un-compensated new thermocouples that cause error.
>>
>>>Can I mount it above the radio stack or should I put it
>>>further away from the panel to avoid any noise getting into the audio
>>>system?
>>
>> Thermocouple wiring carries no noise . . . it may be routed
>> with other wires and close to potential noise victims.
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> --------------------------------------------
>> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
>> ( time you try something, and it works. )
>> ( One fails forward toward success. )
>> ( C.F. Kettering )
>> --------------------------------------------
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top |
-----Original Message-----
From: rking(at)dbworldnet.com <rking(at)dbworldnet.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top
>
>QUIT MAILING THIS STUFF TO! QUIT IT NOW!!!!
>
>Russell King
>-----Original Message-----
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 12:46 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top
>
>
>>
>>
>>FWIW--I think the 100 countersunk flatheads with Tinnerman washers
>>can't be beat for looks. And it's probably a good idea to reinforce the
>>cowl edges with the fiberglass tape, anyway. I used #8 screws.
>>
>>#2 FWIW I used #8's...the #6 seemed to small for me. Also, I located some
>brass
>>c/s screws (120 degree) to use because of the 100 or so times I needed to
>sinch
>>down the cowl for fitting other items. The S/S or steel screws take their
>toll
>>on the nutplates...the brass saves the nutplates and runs in & out easier
>withy
>>my angled Mikettta drill. With the angled drill it takes less than a
minute
>to
>>remove all the screws.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Scott, how ya doin down there???? have you nailed mike down to a specific
date yet? i'm coming to the south coast for snf 2000 just trying to figure
out a schedule. hows your project??? I'm wrestling with this fiberglass dash
(did i mention how i hate fiberglass......) anyway its movin a little slower
than i would like... i'm thinkin that i would already be flying a
quickbuild. ......
can you believe we got a week of 50 degree weather. shoveling snow kept
cutting into my building time, now its all gone, whew!!
keep in touch...
steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RClayp5888(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | An Oil Cooler Question |
Hi Folks,
I am installing a Sam James Cowl on my 6A. After placing the baffling, the
guys who are helping with the install of the oil cooler feel that it is to
close to the cylinder if placed on the back of the engine baffle. They
installed an oil cooler on a Glassair on the Cowl itself and placed a NACA
air inlet so air would go directly on the oil cooler.
They think this would work well on my 6A. Has anyone done this? If so, has it
worked? Does anyone have any other suggestions as to where the oil cooler
could be placed? Many thanks in advance. The engine I have installed is an
IO-360.
Bob Claypool 428BC (reserved), Fresno, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Try this link http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/
>
> JDHeath
>
This link does a better job than the FAA . . . at least you only
have to download individual chapters and not the 90+ files
that make up the FAA's version!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FOR SALE
>
>perhaps that is why I said make me an offer I can't
>refuse hmmm
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/24/2000 11:54:55 AM Central
>> Standard Time,
>> willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> << listers I have two brand new ductworks lights one
>> for
>> each wing at $70.00 apiece or both for $139.95 you
>> pay
>> shipping on these as well call me on my cell phone
>> at
>> 817-875-8468 or at home 817-577-9596 I would prefer
>
>> to
>> sell both units as a set as they are brand new.
>> COME
>>
>> Glenn williams
>> 8A wings
>> FT. WORTH, TEXAS
>> >>
>>
>> Here the problem. I paid 69.95 a piece and free
>> shipping when I purchased
>> mine from team rocket last week.
>>
>> Chris WIlcox
>> F-1 ROcket
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronvandervort(at)aol.com <Ronvandervort(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights
>
>
>Thanks Harvey,
>
>Coming from you is a good reference. Glad you enjoy the shirt. I hope it
>fits OK.
>
>Ron V.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronvandervort(at)aol.com <Ronvandervort(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights
>
>
>Thanks Harvey,
>
>Coming from you is a good reference. Glad you enjoy the shirt. I hope it
>fits OK.
>
>Ron V.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronvandervort(at)aol.com <Ronvandervort(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights
>
>
>Thanks Harvey,
>
>Coming from you is a good reference. Glad you enjoy the shirt. I hope it
>fits OK.
>
>Ron V.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronvandervort(at)aol.com <Ronvandervort(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights
>
>
>Thanks Harvey,
>
>Coming from you is a good reference. Glad you enjoy the shirt. I hope it
>fits OK.
>
>Ron V.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronvandervort(at)aol.com <Ronvandervort(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RMD Vs. Duckworks Lights
>
>
>Thanks Harvey,
>
>Coming from you is a good reference. Glad you enjoy the shirt. I hope it
>fits OK.
>
>Ron V.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 11:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au>
>
>>I have a Rocky Mountains engine monitor and plan to set it up to monitor
all
>>four cht's and egt's. An electronics savvy friend of mine modified a
video
>>switching/sequencing kit which has 8 small relays so that I could take 8
>>thermocouples and drive them through to the monitor and it would cycle
>>through each one in turn (with adjustable delay set by a potentiometer).
>>I'm just about to install it now. Would you anticipate any problems with
>>this set-up?
>
> Can't tell. I think there's a risk that it will not. Video is
> generally carried on coaxial cable with all signals sharing
> a common ground via chassis connections and shielding. Switching
> in this product may well be carried out in manner I've depicted
> in Figure 14-7A of the thermocouple article found at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
>
> For error free switching of thermocouples, you need two pole
> switching with resonable care to to exactly the same thing to
> both sides of the thermocouple path to avoid introduction
> of un-compensated new thermocouples that cause error.
>
>>Can I mount it above the radio stack or should I put it
>>further away from the panel to avoid any noise getting into the audio
>>system?
>
> Thermocouple wiring carries no noise . . . it may be routed
> with other wires and close to potential noise victims.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> ( time you try something, and it works. )
> ( One fails forward toward success. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 11:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au>
>
>>I have a Rocky Mountains engine monitor and plan to set it up to monitor
all
>>four cht's and egt's. An electronics savvy friend of mine modified a
video
>>switching/sequencing kit which has 8 small relays so that I could take 8
>>thermocouples and drive them through to the monitor and it would cycle
>>through each one in turn (with adjustable delay set by a potentiometer).
>>I'm just about to install it now. Would you anticipate any problems with
>>this set-up?
>
> Can't tell. I think there's a risk that it will not. Video is
> generally carried on coaxial cable with all signals sharing
> a common ground via chassis connections and shielding. Switching
> in this product may well be carried out in manner I've depicted
> in Figure 14-7A of the thermocouple article found at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
>
> For error free switching of thermocouples, you need two pole
> switching with resonable care to to exactly the same thing to
> both sides of the thermocouple path to avoid introduction
> of un-compensated new thermocouples that cause error.
>
>>Can I mount it above the radio stack or should I put it
>>further away from the panel to avoid any noise getting into the audio
>>system?
>
> Thermocouple wiring carries no noise . . . it may be routed
> with other wires and close to potential noise victims.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
> ( time you try something, and it works. )
> ( One fails forward toward success. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au> |
-----Original Message-----
From: rking(at)dbworldnet.com <rking(at)dbworldnet.com>
Date: Saturday, February 26, 2000 1:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: rking(at)dbworldnet.com <rking(at)dbworldnet.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 1:55 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au>
>
>
>>
>>QUIT E_MAILING ME THIS STUFF. I NEVER AUTHORIZED THIS SO QUIT!!
>>
>>Russell King
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>To: aaaron(at)tvp.com.au
>>Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 11:03 AM
>>Subject: RV-List: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Lengtht.au>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>>I have a Rocky Mountains engine monitor and plan to set it up to monitor
>>all
>>>>four cht's and egt's. An electronics savvy friend of mine modified a
>>video
>>>>switching/sequencing kit which has 8 small relays so that I could take 8
>>>>thermocouples and drive them through to the monitor and it would cycle
>>>>through each one in turn (with adjustable delay set by a potentiometer).
>>>>I'm just about to install it now. Would you anticipate any problems
with
>>>>this set-up?
>>>
>>> Can't tell. I think there's a risk that it will not. Video is
>>> generally carried on coaxial cable with all signals sharing
>>> a common ground via chassis connections and shielding. Switching
>>> in this product may well be carried out in manner I've depicted
>>> in Figure 14-7A of the thermocouple article found at:
>>>
>>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
>>>
>>> For error free switching of thermocouples, you need two pole
>>> switching with resonable care to to exactly the same thing to
>>> both sides of the thermocouple path to avoid introduction
>>> of un-compensated new thermocouples that cause error.
>>>
>>>>Can I mount it above the radio stack or should I put it
>>>>further away from the panel to avoid any noise getting into the audio
>>>>system?
>>>
>>> Thermocouple wiring carries no noise . . . it may be routed
>>> with other wires and close to potential noise victims.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------
>>> ( The only time you don't fail is the last )
>>> ( time you try something, and it works. )
>>> ( One fails forward toward success. )
>>> ( C.F. Kettering )
>>> --------------------------------------------
>>> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top |
-----Original Message-----
From: rking(at)dbworldnet.com <rking(at)dbworldnet.com>
Date: Saturday, February 26, 2000 1:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: rking(at)dbworldnet.com <rking(at)dbworldnet.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 1:53 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top
>
>
>>
>>QUIT MAILING THIS STUFF TO! QUIT IT NOW!!!!
>>
>>Russell King
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: pcondon(at)csc.com <pcondon(at)csc.com>
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Friday, February 25, 2000 12:46 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Top S-Cowl Screws on Top
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>FWIW--I think the 100 countersunk flatheads with Tinnerman washers
>>>can't be beat for looks. And it's probably a good idea to reinforce the
>>>cowl edges with the fiberglass tape, anyway. I used #8 screws.
>>>
>>>#2 FWIW I used #8's...the #6 seemed to small for me. Also, I located some
>>brass
>>>c/s screws (120 degree) to use because of the 100 or so times I needed to
>>sinch
>>>down the cowl for fitting other items. The S/S or steel screws take their
>>toll
>>>on the nutplates...the brass saves the nutplates and runs in & out easier
>>withy
>>>my angled Mikettta drill. With the angled drill it takes less than a
>minute
>>to
>>>remove all the screws.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rking(at)dbworldnet.com |
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven DiNieri <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Date: Saturday, February 26, 2000 1:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MIKE SEAGER
>
>Scott, how ya doin down there???? have you nailed mike down to a specific
>date yet? i'm coming to the south coast for snf 2000 just trying to figure
>out a schedule. hows your project??? I'm wrestling with this fiberglass
dash
>(did i mention how i hate fiberglass......) anyway its movin a little
slower
>than i would like... i'm thinkin that i would already be flying a
>quickbuild. ......
> can you believe we got a week of 50 degree weather. shoveling snow kept
>cutting into my building time, now its all gone, whew!!
> keep in touch...
>steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Wing Question |
By any chance are the "ribs" kind of short?
JIm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum System Plumbing Just a suggestion |
Have you tried Home Depot and root through their plumbing fixtures. Baring
threads, I have had success on some wierd needs.
Jim
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Cable and Hose Lengths |
What are the rules of thumb on determining hose and push pull cable lengths?
For instance, what bend radius should I shoot for when running the throttle
and mixture cables? What's the minimum acceptable radius? On hose, the
minimum bend radius is usually published, but what radius should I shoot for,
and how much extra length and/or sag should I build into the hoses to allow
for flex?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | C/S Spinner Length Caution |
A caution when fitting the S601-1 Fiberglass Spinner for C/S Prop: It comes
with a sharply scribed line (or at least mine did) about 1/8 up from the
bottom edge. My bottom edge was pretty ragged and not planar, so I
carefully trimmed it to the line with a 3" Roloc sanding disc. Yeah, I
should know better by now.
Six man-hours later the spinner is trimmed for the blades and fits like a
glove -- except it is 3/32 too short!
A new spinner is $58.67 and currently out of stock. Press on.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cable and Hose Lengths |
For hose we make up one end with a foot or two extra length. We connect the
one end and position the hose different ways until we are satisfied, holding
the unterminated end as close to the final fitting as possible. Then we
mark where to cut, allowing for fitting length, and terminate the other end.
Often times we've changed the termination from a 45 to a 90 because in the
trial fitting it just works out better.
Be sure to allow for added stiffness introduced by firesleeving if you are
going that route.
I have been very happy with Earl's Autoflex hose and Autofit fittings.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, February 26, 2000 9:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cable and Hose Lengths
>
>What are the rules of thumb on determining hose and push pull cable
lengths?
>
>For instance, what bend radius should I shoot for when running the throttle
>and mixture cables? What's the minimum acceptable radius? On hose, the
>minimum bend radius is usually published, but what radius should I shoot
for,
>and how much extra length and/or sag should I build into the hoses to allow
>for flex?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)shuswap.net> |
| Subject: | Re: airflow performance - purge valve |
I have been watching but haven't seen any replies on this subject. I have
just recently installed one on my Bendix injected 0360.
For those who are not completely familiar with the AFP purge valve it was
designed to allow you to pump fuel with the boost pump through the entire
fuel injection system excluding the flow divider on top of the engine. It is
connected to the flow divider and has a lever when pulled shuts of the fuel
to the flow divider and diverts all the fuel through a return line back to a
tank.
I use it on every start cold or hot using the following procedure.
1 Purge valve on
2 Mixture full rich
3 Throttle wide
4 Boost pump on for 15-20 seconds
( When you get used to it at this point you could close the purge valve
set the throttle and start .)
5 Boost pump off
6 Mixture closed
7 Throttle closed
8 Purge valve off
Then start in the normal manner.
What you have done is pump a quantity of fuel through the whole system
without injecting any into the cylinders.If the the aircraft has not been
flown for some time you now have the system purged and full of fuel. On a
hot start the system is purged of all vapor and is full of cool fuel.
Have added some answers to the questions below.
-----Original Message-----
From: Louis Cappucci <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 6:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: airflow performance - purge valve
>
>listers,
>
>for those of you with the airflow performance fuel injection with purge
>valve, i have a series of questions:
>
> what kind of cable are you using to control the purge valve? where did you
>put it? (i am thinking friction lock, next to a vernier mixture control...)
I used a button lock control installed on my sub panel beside my heat
controls. Felt the button type would prevent acidentally pulling it. The
control is part # A-700 from ACS. Could also install a spring on the purge
valve that will keep it off in the event of a control failure.
>how did you plumb the return line from the purge valve? what size hose? (i
>am thinking of using one of the vent lines...)
Plumbed it back to the left hand tank using # 4 line to the firewall.
>how often do you use the purge valve? is it effective on hot starts? do
you
>shutdown with mixture or purge? is it worth installing?
You can use either one to shut down. By using the purge valve to shut down
this prevents any pressure build up in the system.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
>thanks,
>louis cappucci
>rv-6a qb finish kit
>mamaroneck, ny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Wing Question |
Mike there are some differences between the -4 & -6, the -6 has larger fuel
tanks.
The F-404 bulkhead pieces you listed are correct but you also need w-420 splice
plates and F-404E side plates to complete the bulkhead.
You need RV-4 drawing 13 for bulkhead parts & drawing 9 to show wing parts.
The main thing is the wing is now shipped from the factory pre drilled with the
F-404 bulkhead parts, if you didn't get the bulkhead you have a problem, you
need to talk to the factory and get new complete drawings and advice.
Wayne
RV-4 FAA paperwork.
>
> I purchased a RV-4 wing from a 3rd party and am trying to piece it all
> together (it is unstarted). I have a couple of questions.
>
> 1) What parts compromise the F404 fuselage pieces?? I cannot find any of
> them and I believe Vans ships these with the wing kit. I see F404A-R (2),
> F404A-L (2), F404C, and F404D. Am I missing something here???
>
> 2) I assume that the left wing and right wing are a mirror image. Therefore
> drawing 9 will be mirrored for the other wing (as far as which way the rib
> flanges point). Is this correct??
>
> 3) I have come up with extra ribs, I have found from the prints that I should
> have the following (I'm talking ribs at the leading edge only):
>
> Left Wing:
> W409R (1), W409L (6), W408L (1), T403L (1), T404L (2), T404R (1), T403R (1)
>
> Right Wing (mirror of above):
> W409L (1), W409R (6), W408R (1), T403R (1), T404R (2), T404l (1), T403L (1)
>
> I have some others left over after this, is what I have above correct and do
> I indeed have extra ribs, or are there ribs used in other places that I am
> missing???
>
> Thanks for the advice
> -Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum System Plumbing |
> 1) I have a two hole vacuum gauge. According to Tony B. (pg. 288 of
> Sportplane Construction Techniques) a two-holer is designed to measure the
> pressure differential across a gyro instrument. As such, I need to "Tee"
> off of both the inflow and outflow of the artificial horizon. The "Tee"
> needs to split each 3/8" hose with a 1/4" hose connection (which will go
> to the vacuum gauge). Got any idea where I could find such a "Tee"
> fitting (3/8 x 1/4 x 3/8)? Part number?
I found "T" fittings that worked at the local auto parts store. They're
made for auto vacuume systems. Lightweight plastic.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A Gear Weldment Caution |
8A builders . . . make sure you drill the hole for the wiring and battery
cable (if aft mounted battery) if F804A BEFORE you install the gear
weldment. I didn't do this, and spent two hours today taking the gear
weldment back out so I could get to F804A to drill the holes!
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Avionics Installation |
Lister's,
I am installing the trays for the radios in my 8A. UPS Aviation Technology
SL30, SL70 & SL50. I didn't receive the radios yet, but I want to
permanently install the trays.
My question: Do the trays mount flush to the rear of the panel, or does the
tray stick though the panel & lie flush with the face of the panel. The
installation manual does not address this. I am leaning towards having the
tray stick through the panel & lie flush with the face for additional
support, but not having the radios I am not sure if it will work. Any advice
would be appreciated.......Mark
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support |
Listers:
I have finished the canopy, looking like an airplane instead of a canoe at last!!!.
Has anyone information on the use of a gas filled strut instead of the lanyard.
I have
seen them at flyins but if someone knows of one that worked and could supply the
information about supplier or even part number at the autosupply it will same me
a
bunch of time going down and measuring. I am also concerned about the strength
of the
strut causing a bending force on the canopy assembly each time it is closed. I
have
had the experience of changing the gas strut on our chrysler town&country. Whew,
what
a monster. Quite a strong charge, requiring a good deal of weight (auto door)
to
collapse it. If anyone has used one successfully and has anything to say please
reply.
Dave Aronson
N504RV Engine Mount next.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glang007(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Installation |
I mounted mine with angle to the rear of the panel. Check out:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/panel2.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2000 4:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Avionics Installation
>
> Lister's,
>
> I am installing the trays for the radios in my 8A. UPS Aviation Technology
> SL30, SL70 & SL50. I didn't receive the radios yet, but I want to
> permanently install the trays.
>
> My question: Do the trays mount flush to the rear of the panel, or does
the
> tray stick though the panel & lie flush with the face of the panel. The
> installation manual does not address this. I am leaning towards having the
> tray stick through the panel & lie flush with the face for additional
> support, but not having the radios I am not sure if it will work. Any
advice
> would be appreciated.......Mark
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8A Dallas, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support |
Dave.
I have a gas strut to hold open my 4 canopy. I selected the one I have by
measuring and trial and error. The length is not all that critical, any
number of lengths can be used. I made a bracked out of angle and bolted it
to the gusset on the bottem of the left side of the roll bar and attached
one end of the strut to that, and the other end was attached the socket that
was secured in a hole through the structure in the middle of the canopy.
The various length of strut can be accomodated by where you drill this hole.
You are wise to worry about the strenth of this attachment point. Mine works
as the canopy is opened and closed, I intend to put a doubler in the area
the bolt goes through to strengthen it. The strut I am using now is not
quite strong enough, I would like one that would support the weight of the
canopy when it is more that half open but mine will not.
Hope this helps, I wish I had some jpg's to send you of the instulation but
I don't have access to a digital camera right now.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> Listers:
>
> I have finished the canopy, looking like an airplane instead of a canoe at
last!!!.
> Has anyone information on the use of a gas filled strut instead of the
lanyard. I have
> seen them at flyins but if someone knows of one that worked and could
supply the
> information about supplier or even part number at the autosupply it will
same me a
> bunch of time going down and measuring. I am also concerned about the
strength of the
> strut causing a bending force on the canopy assembly each time it is
closed. I have
> had the experience of changing the gas strut on our chrysler town&country.
Whew, what
> a monster. Quite a strong charge, requiring a good deal of weight (auto
door) to
> collapse it. If anyone has used one successfully and has anything to say
please reply.
>
> Dave Aronson
> N504RV Engine Mount next.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support |
>
> I have finished the canopy, looking like an airplane instead of a canoe at
last!!!.
> Has anyone information on the use of a gas filled strut instead of the
lanyard. I have
> seen them at flyins but if someone knows of one that worked and could
supply the
> information about supplier or even part number at the autosupply it will
same me a
> bunch of time going down and measuring. I am also concerned about the
strength of the
> strut causing a bending force on the canopy assembly each time it is
closed. I have
> had the experience of changing the gas strut on our chrysler town&country.
Whew, what
> a monster. Quite a strong charge, requiring a good deal of weight (auto
door) to
> collapse it. If anyone has used one successfully and has anything to say
please reply.
>
> Dave Aronson
> N504RV Engine Mount next.
Dave. I considered a gas strut arrangement for my RV-4 until a local
builder showed me his very clever canopy locking and hold-open mechanism
using two pieces of 1/8" angle. It's a little hard to explain, but I do
have photos I can send and I'd be glad to provide dimensions. I installed
it, works perfect and probably cost about two bucks.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Yep, we should have 3 or 4 RV's as a group.
Hope to see you there.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6
>
>Ed, weather permitting there are a bunch of us going on Sat. Look for a
>Cessna 210 with 5 or 6 RVs in formation!
>
>Walt RV-6A N79WH
>
>6-Pack Air Group
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: C/S Spinner Length Caution |
Dennis , I have a spinner never used as I chose to use one from Sensenich .
make me a offer. N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support |
Hey Doug,
I to have see this on 4's at S&F, I would love to see your pic's because this
is the route I'm taking.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Avionics Installation |
Mark,
I think you could go either way, but having the edge of the tray flush with
the pilot side of the panel is probably safer without the radios to check
the fit. I've got an SL30, SL70, GX65 and SL15 and all the faceplates are
just slightly wider than the outside of the trays, only 5-10 thousanths, but
enough to cause a problem if you don't allow for it. FWIW the faceplates are
about 1/2" thick.
If you got the backplates for the trays, you'll know, but if you didn't then
heed the 1/8" spacing between radios. The faceplates don't need it but the
backplates are mounted with round head screws that protrude above and below
the tray. You also need some clearance for the locking mechanism to rotate.
Speaking of that, one of my locking mechanisms is on top and the others are
on the bottom... so I labeled the trays with radio type and top/bottom so I
won't install them upside down.
One other note. My trial fit with the backplates and connectors showed that
each radio seats to a slightly different depth, about 1/8" total variance.
If that holds after I get the wiring done (they're still on my avionics
bench, i.e dining room table), I'll likely joggle the tray positions to get
all faceplates even.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Steffensen
> Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2000 5:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Avionics Installation
>
>
> Lister's,
>
> I am installing the trays for the radios in my 8A. UPS Aviation Technology
> SL30, SL70 & SL50. I didn't receive the radios yet, but I want to
> permanently install the trays.
>
> My question: Do the trays mount flush to the rear of the panel,
> or does the
> tray stick though the panel & lie flush with the face of the panel. The
> installation manual does not address this. I am leaning towards having the
> tray stick through the panel & lie flush with the face for additional
> support, but not having the radios I am not sure if it will work.
> Any advice
> would be appreciated.......Mark
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8A Dallas, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Cardboard Panel Planner |
Does any one know a link where I can get life size flight instrument
pictures to add to my cardboard instrument panel? I have already done the
radio stack.
What is the minimum recommended instrument spacing for 0.063 sheet? Can they
be closer if 0.090 sheet is used?
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta, BC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 6A Section 12 Update for S-cowl? |
Dennis,
Since you've already started on the top this may not be much help. I started
with the lower cowl and just got it fitted today. I didn't have anything
other that the drawing but it went surprisingly easy considering all the
horror stories I've heard about the old cowl. The process was simple:
1. Installed the side hinges and bottom attach plate (I'm using screws here)
2. Marked a 2" reference line on the sides and bottom
3. Clamped the lower cowl to the spinner backplate using a 1/4" spacer and
used duct tape to hold the aft end in position
4. Marked the cut line on the sides and bottom using the 2" reference line
5. Removed and cut sides and bottom
6. Reinstalled with clamps, spacer and duct tape
7. repeat 5 & 6 (only had to do one additonal trim)
8. Mark holes, drill and cleko bottom and sides
You might be able to do this if you mark the top cowl's position on the
backplate and then align the lower cowl to that mark. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
>
> Does anyone have a recent Section 12 of the 6/6A instructions
> that addresses
> the S-cowl? I'm about to mount the bottom cowl (top almost done)
> and would
> like to see some kind of instructions if they exist. The Ormdorf tapes
> treat only the old cowl. My instructions are vintage 1/3/97 S612.doc.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support |
Doug:
Thanks for the reply. Would like to see your pics of mechanism. Send me a
photo or e-mail a jpeg if youve got one. Thanks
Dave Aronson
N504RV
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> >
> > I have finished the canopy, looking like an airplane instead of a canoe at
> last!!!.
> > Has anyone information on the use of a gas filled strut instead of the
> lanyard. I have
> > seen them at flyins but if someone knows of one that worked and could
> supply the
> > information about supplier or even part number at the autosupply it will
> same me a
> > bunch of time going down and measuring. I am also concerned about the
> strength of the
> > strut causing a bending force on the canopy assembly each time it is
> closed. I have
> > had the experience of changing the gas strut on our chrysler town&country.
> Whew, what
> > a monster. Quite a strong charge, requiring a good deal of weight (auto
> door) to
> > collapse it. If anyone has used one successfully and has anything to say
> please reply.
> >
> > Dave Aronson
> > N504RV Engine Mount next.
>
> Dave. I considered a gas strut arrangement for my RV-4 until a local
> builder showed me his very clever canopy locking and hold-open mechanism
> using two pieces of 1/8" angle. It's a little hard to explain, but I do
> have photos I can send and I'd be glad to provide dimensions. I installed
> it, works perfect and probably cost about two bucks.
>
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
See me/my RV6 at:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/FirstFlt.htm
25 hours over now, free to roam the country side!!!
Anyways I'm going to be back in CARY NC. Tuesday 2/29 and Wednesday 3/1 night
this week....
Anybody got free time? Got a desire to give a Yankee a ride since I shall be
frequent visitor in the area, in my RV soon.......so show me the ropes?
or
Who wants what...need advise on your project? A hand bucking?
Want me to plug the RV forum in Oswego, NY?
Please reply to:
demcmanmon(at)syrplas.com
Respectfully
David McManmon
Cicero NY
N58DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Who makes the better electric DG's and Attitude indicators, Sigma Tek or RC
Allen?
Thank-you,
Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft/Engine Logs |
Hi All,
What entries should I be making in the aircraft and engine logs? Should I
be logging each flight in the aircraft log? Only maintenance items in the
engine log? Should I be entering test data in the aircraft and/or engine
log?
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Test Data RV-8A (Long) |
Hi All,
Couple of numbers for those interested.
So far I've seen a Speed of 175 mph (GS) at 2400 rpm and 6k ft with
0-320-D2A and Sensenich FP prop. This was measured by GPS runs and
averaging although the speed in opposite direction on this particular day
were only 3 knots different. This is without wheel pants and gear leg
fairings. If Van's estimate is accurate I should get another 10 kts with
these installed. So it looks like cruise will be about 185 mph (GS) or so
with the 0-320.
I'm getting climb rates at over 1500fpm (solo) at 90-100 mph but the CHT
makes a beeline for redline at that angle. I can easily get 1000 fpm at
110-120 mph and the CHT is much happier. The plane will lift off at
slightly over 60 mph but if I hold it on the runway until I get to 75-80 it
literally leaps off the ground and can climb out at a ridiculous angle.
Just nice to know if I ever need it. I opted not to put the door on the
firewall mounted oil cooler and now wish I had. I had to cover the oil
cooler with duct tape to get an acceptable oil temp in cold weather (below
30 f). The door would have simply made this much easier and I'm sure I'll
be installing it. Also, I have the 9" heat muff and it is not adequate. I
have it stuffed with some stainless steel scrubbing pads now and have
blocked off half the airflow through it trying to slow down the air thus
giving it more time to heat. At 34-35 degrees and higher it is ok but
below freezing and especially below 25 degrees f it is just blowing cold
air. Gotta work on that problem. The airplane is also pretty drafty
around the rear stick hole in the floor and around the slider track on the
rear of the canopy.
I fixed my heavy wing problem by using the old tried and true squeezing of
the light aileron. I tweaked it very lightly over several sessions until
it was right. The plane now flys hands and feet off.
I've done some stability tests on all axis and haven't discovered any
problems. The plane has displayed neutral to positive stability on all
axis although to me the pitch stability seems slow in coming. I have no
real idea of what to expect, so it may not really be slow.
Controls are very light and the plane is a joy to fly. I'm still trying to
get used to the view over the nose as I have a tendancy to bring the nose
too high on the horizon and climb. Just not used to all that visibility.
Stalls are straight forward with a moderate pre-stall buffet. Power must
be pulled waaaaaay back to get down to pattern speed and I usually pull
back to 1200 abeam the numbers and 1000 on base. I hold 1000 (adjusting as
needed of course) and hold 80 on final, pulling power to idle over the
numbers. One thing I have noticed is that if I'm high on final that full
flaps (40 degrees) and idle power creates a sink rate like a rock. It's
better to hold in a little power (1000rpm) and use flaps and side-slip to
drop the altitude.
I used .063 aluminum and platenuts all around the cowl and it makes it
really easy to remove/install the cowl. Only a couple minutes to remove
and maybe 5 to reinstall. The drawback is that its already starting to
take a beating around the screws.
On comfort, I have seats from D.J. Lauretsen(sp) at Cleaveland Tool with
conforfoam inserts. They are incredibly comfortable. My longest flight
has been 2.5 hours. I'm no midget (6'1" 250lbs) and I'm completely
comfortable in this airplane.
Don't know what else to tell ya except that, as many have said
before....You're gonna love this airplane!
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Seat Back Spacing RV6-A-QB |
List: I am moving right along on my kit ( Just under 2 mo.) and have run
into a small bone of contention. I see via my manual and the plans that no
specific distance is called out for spacing between the seats?
My George Orndorf Tapes call for 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 in. between
seats. I assume to allow for the the electric flap assembly.
Allowing for 1/8 in. spacing from my armrests i can only get a
Max. of 3 7/8 in.? What gives,or am i ok?
Ready to start skinning fuselage ! It is 70 degrees in Ohio and
i can primer in the driveway.
Tom in Ohio (362CT)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl |
The 4th issue 1999 RVator p 13 talks about inclining the longitudinal hinge
line upwards towards the aft to create a "zipper" effect. I sure can't
visualize how this works, but I guess I'm going to have to decide real soon
if I'm going to use it. Jim Sears has used it -- can others comment on how
it works and IF it works?
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Data RV-8A (Long) |
>My comments below...
>
>
>Hi All,
>Couple of numbers for those interested.
>So far I've seen a Speed of 175 mph (GS) at 2400 rpm and 6k ft with
>0-320-D2A and Sensenich FP prop. This was measured by GPS runs and
>averaging although the speed in opposite direction on this particular day
>were only 3 knots different. This is without wheel pants and gear leg
>fairings. If Van's estimate is accurate I should get another 10 kts with
>these installed. So it looks like cruise will be about 185 mph (GS) or so
>with the 0-320.
I'd say you're right on the money. When I added the wheel pants, I got
10mph and the cleaner airframe lets the plane get to max speed a bit faster.
I just started fitting the gear leg fairings. Maybe another 3-5mph? We'll
soon see. My flight yesterday up to visit Bill Von Dane really showed just
how much ground these planes can cover. Approximately two hours, with one
stop for fuel and bladder relief, from Albuquerque to Colorado Springs. I
had to go around the east side of the Rockies to avoid nosebleeds and blue
fingers. ;) Average ground speed both up and back: 190mph. I can't operate
at full throttle below 10,000' and stay below 2700 rpm. So, I like 9,000'
for terrain clearance and ease of engine operation. It just seems to work
best for my O-360/Sensenich 83" combo.
>
>I'm getting climb rates at over 1500fpm (solo) at 90-100 mph but the CHT
>makes a beeline for redline at that angle. I can easily get 1000 fpm at
>110-120 mph and the CHT is much happier. The plane will lift off at
>slightly over 60 mph but if I hold it on the runway until I get to 75-80 it
>literally leaps off the ground and can climb out at a ridiculous angle.
>Just nice to know if I ever need it. I opted not to put the door on the
>firewall mounted oil cooler and now wish I had. I had to cover the oil
>cooler with duct tape to get an acceptable oil temp in cold weather (below
>30 f). The door would have simply made this much easier and I'm sure I'll
>be installing it. Also, I have the 9" heat muff and it is not adequate. I
>have it stuffed with some stainless steel scrubbing pads now and have
>blocked off half the airflow through it trying to slow down the air thus
>giving it more time to heat. At 34-35 degrees and higher it is ok but
>below freezing and especially below 25 degrees f it is just blowing cold
>air. Gotta work on that problem. The airplane is also pretty drafty
>around the rear stick hole in the floor and around the slider track on the
>rear of the canopy.
I've also found the CHT to go ballistic at the steeper climb angle. Once the
airspeed goes below 100mph, up goes the temp, visibility over the nose is
nil, and climb rate really isn't much better than holding 110mph or so, with
better view forward and a less critical CHT reading. I think Scott
McDaniels pretty much confirmed this in a recent private post to me. Keep
the speed up over 100mph on climbs, and everything just seems to work
better.
I've been keeping a piece of duct tape over 1/2 of the inlet of the 3" scat
hose to my oil cooler for most of the winter so far. Now that temps are
going up outside, I removed it and during my cruise yesterday, oil temp was
constant at 180 degrees. It was still pretty cold at altitude, so, with a
linear oil temp response to outside air temp, when it gets hot this summer,
that Positech may not cut it. I still have a brand new Niagara from Van's
waiting on my bench just in case.
My heat muff does OK as far as thermal transfer is concerned. I have the
inlet to the muff on the left baffle inlet ramp. I'm not getting much
airflow there, as I think the air is taking the path of least resistance and
going past the inlet and into the plenum. So, I might install a NACA inlet
on the lower cowl and connect the scat hose to that. Then, I'll have more
airflow, but less time for it to heat up. Hmm. And ounce of this, a pound of
that, mix thoroughly and hope for the best.
I placed adhesive backed felt the entire way around the skirt where it
contacts the fuselage. That took care of some major drafts. The big hole
where the rear stick resides needs to be covered as well. The structure down
there with the front seat belt anchors, eyeball vent and the stick itself
make fitting a boot quite a pain. I slapped one together from some seat
upholstery and stuck it down with duct tape. It looks sorta OK, not pretty,
but has really helped. I still feel an occasional cold draft coming from
somewhere up front, maybe around the canopy bow.
>
>I fixed my heavy wing problem by using the old tried and true squeezing of
>the light aileron. I tweaked it very lightly over several sessions until
>it was right. The plane now flys hands and feet off.
Same here. First I thought my control rod lengths weren't equal on both
sides. Wrong, they were fine. So, back to the way I had them. Still, I found
the stick would just pop over to the left about an inch in flight. The
ailerons find their own neutral point aerodynamically. Once I squeezed the
right (light wing) aileron, the stick went back to neutral position. Still,
the left aileron rides a bit high, while the right one is flush with the
flap and wingtip. They don't look like this on the ground for some wacky
reason. There must be enough accumulated linkage slop in the system to
allow this phenomena. The plane is flying neutral now, as long as I manage
fuel burn properly. I'm switching tanks every 30 minutes which seems to do
the job.
>
>I've done some stability tests on all axis and haven't discovered any
>problems. The plane has displayed neutral to positive stability on all
>axis although to me the pitch stability seems slow in coming. I have no
>real idea of what to expect, so it may not really be slow.
>
The pitch stability while solo is very solid. It takes many loooong,
shallow pitch oscillations to find it's trimmed speed. As the CG moves aft,
pitch diversion amplitude and frequency increases, but not all that much if
you don't load the plane close to max aft limit. I'm limiting my back seat
"bubba factor" to 220 pounds which will keep my CG two inches forward of aft
limit, with no baggage in the aft hold.
>Controls are very light and the plane is a joy to fly. I'm still trying to
>get used to the view over the nose as I have a tendancy to bring the nose
>too high on the horizon and climb.
Same here. I still find myself in a very shallow climb a lot of the time.
It's going to take some long hours in the cockpit to get it all figured out.
Tough job, but I'm up to it. ;)
>Stalls are straight forward with a moderate pre-stall buffet. Power must
>be pulled waaaaaay back to get down to pattern speed and I usually pull
>back to 1200 abeam the numbers and 1000 on base. I hold 1000 (adjusting as
>needed of course) and hold 80 on final, pulling power to idle over the
>numbers. One thing I have noticed is that if I'm high on final that full
>flaps (40 degrees) and idle power creates a sink rate like a rock. It's
>better to hold in a little power (1000rpm) and use flaps and side-slip to
>drop the altitude.
I'm using 75-80mph indicated down final while solo, and 80-85 dual. I just
starting doing some serious short field type approaches and you're right
about the full flap descent rate. WOW! I'm not comfortable with carrying
that down a long final, but use it on short final if I'm clearing trees
(yes, we have some in New Mexico) or trying to lose some altitude after a
botched pattern setup. Yes, It's been known to happen, like while dodging
&$
#%% gliders and tow planes. The back side of the power curve can really
bite you hard, so proceed with caution and make absolutely sure you can make
the runway before cranking the flaps all the way down and pulling power.
Ok, I'll stop preaching now.
>
>
>Don't know what else to tell ya except that, as many have said
>before....You're gonna love this airplane!
Oooooh yeah...in a BIG way.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
52 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LLOYD BENTLEY" <lloydb(at)intekom.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support |
Hi, I assisted a fellow RV4 with the fitting of a gas strut. What we worked
out is that the strut must work on an over-centre principle in other words,
the attach points need to be so, that the strut is fully extended when the
canopy is in both the open and closed position. This will result in there
not being a permanent pressure on the canopy structure thus preventing it
from cracking. A 20 pound strut will do, as for length aprox.11" fully
extended. This will be different for each builder.
LLOYD BENTLEY RV6 FUSE. SOUTH AFRICA.
> >
> > >
> > > I have finished the canopy, looking like an airplane instead of a
canoe at
> > last!!!.
> > > Has anyone information on the use of a gas filled strut instead of the
> > lanyard. I have
> > > seen them at flyins but if someone knows of one that worked and could
> > supply the
> > > information about supplier or even part number at the autosupply it
will
> > same me a
> > > bunch of time going down and measuring. I am also concerned about the
> > strength of the
> > > strut causing a bending force on the canopy assembly each time it is
> > closed. I have
> > > had the experience of changing the gas strut on our chrysler
town&country.
> > Whew, what
> > > a monster. Quite a strong charge, requiring a good deal of weight
(auto
> > door) to
> > > collapse it. If anyone has used one successfully and has anything to
say
> > please reply.
> > >
> > > Dave Aronson
> > > N504RV Engine Mount next.
> >
> > Dave. I considered a gas strut arrangement for my RV-4 until a local
> > builder showed me his very clever canopy locking and hold-open mechanism
> > using two pieces of 1/8" angle. It's a little hard to explain, but I do
> > have photos I can send and I'd be glad to provide dimensions. I
installed
> > it, works perfect and probably cost about two bucks.
> >
> > Doug Weiler
> > Hudson, WI
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | lights/power supplies |
I've searched the archives and felt like I wasted my time and just got more
confused.
I want to order my RV6 tail kit and don't seem to have the answer for which
fiberglass molds to get to support whichever light combo I end up deciding
to use.
I am going to order a RV6A QB and I want to know what the cheapest light
system is I can get away with (but not one that's hard to install or
maintain) in the QBs and be night legal and IFR legal some day.
The archives were full of miscellaneous data about single vs dual strobe
power supplies, Cleveland vs Vans, etc but not presented in a way that
resonated with me.
So let's hear it. What's a good way to go and not spend $800 on lights?
Or if you have to spend that much then what's really the best long term
design?
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl |
> The 4th issue 1999 RVator p 13 talks about inclining the longitudinal
hinge
> line upwards towards the aft to create a "zipper" effect. I sure can't
> visualize how this works, but I guess I'm going to have to decide real
soon
> if I'm going to use it. Jim Sears has used it -- can others comment on
how
> it works and IF it works?
> Thanks.
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
The D sized drawing which came with the S cowl also says to allow the hinge
to drift upward towards the aft end. This allows the top cowl to be spread
slightly BEFORE being lifted upward, something which will allow the hinges
along the top of the firewall to disengage. Don't know how the word zipper
applies, though.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: lights/power supplies |
lucky macy wrote:
>
>
> I've searched the archives and felt like I wasted my time and just got more
> confused.
>
> I want to order my RV6 tail kit and don't seem to have the answer for which
> fiberglass molds to get to support whichever light combo I end up deciding
> to use.
>
> I am going to order a RV6A QB and I want to know what the cheapest light
> system is I can get away with (but not one that's hard to install or
> maintain) in the QBs and be night legal and IFR legal some day.
>.
>
> So let's hear it. What's a good way to go and not spend $800 on lights?
> Or if you have to spend that much then what's really the best long term
> design?
>
> lucky
>
>
Lucky--
This may sound Catch-22, but your tail light w/wo strobe will depend on
your wingtip lights. You need to think about the whole system and the
position of your wingtip lights and their degree of coverage will
determine your tail light.
Boyd.
Do no archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lights/power supplies |
yeah, i know that now, that's the quandry.
Is there an overhwhelming preferred system? Sorry, don't have any flying
RVs around here that I know of to go look first hand. Mostly just going
from memory from RVs I've seen in the past and the catalogues
>From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111)
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: lights/power supplies
>Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 13:41:44 -0500
>
>201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
>lucky macy wrote:
> >
> >
> > I've searched the archives and felt like I wasted my time and just got
>more
> > confused.
> >
> > I want to order my RV6 tail kit and don't seem to have the answer for
>which
> > fiberglass molds to get to support whichever light combo I end up
>deciding
> > to use.
> >
> > I am going to order a RV6A QB and I want to know what the cheapest light
> > system is I can get away with (but not one that's hard to install or
> > maintain) in the QBs and be night legal and IFR legal some day.
> >.
> >
> > So let's hear it. What's a good way to go and not spend $800 on
>lights?
> > Or if you have to spend that much then what's really the best long term
> > design?
> >
> > lucky
> >
> >
>Lucky--
>
>This may sound Catch-22, but your tail light w/wo strobe will depend on
>your wingtip lights. You need to think about the whole system and the
>position of your wingtip lights and their degree of coverage will
>determine your tail light.
>
>Boyd.
>Do no archive.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl |
Basically the hinge pin in the front of the cowl will be split along the
split line of the cowl. Drill it at that end. Then shift the aft end of
the hing up, to where the bottom edge of the pin is flush with the edge of
the cowl. It does work pretty well for removal purposes, but my hinges
still have to be broken in I think.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 8:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl
>
> The 4th issue 1999 RVator p 13 talks about inclining the longitudinal
hinge
> line upwards towards the aft to create a "zipper" effect. I sure can't
> visualize how this works, but I guess I'm going to have to decide real
soon
> if I'm going to use it. Jim Sears has used it -- can others comment on
how
> it works and IF it works?
> Thanks.
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Avionics Installation |
I am not using UPS avionics, but my NARCO transponder and VALCOM radio trays
both fit flush with the finished panel. This gives the trays a great deal
of support. In fact they required user-fabricated brackets at the front to
fasten the trays to the panel.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A firewall forward bits and pieces
-----Original Message-----My question: Do the trays mount
flush to the rear of the panel, or does the
tray stick though the panel & lie flush with the face of the
panel. The
installation manual does not address this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lights/power supplies |
Boyd is correct - plan your wingtip set up, coverage & tail light system
first. I used the combo strobe tail light from Van's catalog & my wingtip
lights are contained within the lighting kit for the sheared wingtips made
by the guys in BFL. You can do the same thing with the RMD lighting kit for
the standard wingtips. By the way, you can buy the Aeroflash power supplies
& lights from Cleaveland or Team Rocket (as I did) for a good price, if you
want to avoid the Whelen sticker shock.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | In flight pics, RV8 N94BD |
Listers,
I added a page of in-flight pics taken from the back seat of my RV8. The
pics are HUGE, so go get another cup of coffee while you wait. Why? I'm too
lazy to resize them! Many show sizeable portions of the back of my head.
Such is life in a tandem airplane. If your wife or flying buddy wants to
know how the view will be back there, well, here ya go!
Enjoy.
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/flying1.html
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Machining Work Needed... |
Listers,
I am currently in need of some aluminum machining work that involves
milling the faceplate for the FuelScan instrument manufactured by
Matronics. I have done this work in-house on our own CNC vertical mill
in the past and this has proved cost affective and allowed for the
fine tuning of the design. I am now in need of a rather large lot of
units and would like to farm the work out if I can obtain a reasonable
cost point.
I have compiled a detailed set of files that include a DXF drawing of
the faceplate, the GCodes that I have used to create the piece, a number
of very clear photos of the finished unit, and a text file of general
notes on milling the faceplate. These are contained within the Zip
file below:
http://www.matronics.com/fuelscan/faceplate.zip
If you have the necessary CNC capability and would be interested quoting
on the job, please contact me via email at the following address:
dralle(at)matronics.com
I will provide you with quantities and needed delivery schedule.
Thank you for your assistance.
Matt Dralle
Matronics
Email List Admin.
RV-4 Builder
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lights/power supplies |
This answer is not a "which is better" solution, just the answer to your
question. Go with the Aeroflash. You get all three lights in the same unit
(ala whelen) for about half the price. No wires to run to the tail. Even
if you go with the wingtip lighting like I did, you can still install them
aft of the wingtips. They are available from Cleveland and Team Rocket for
the same price. They are only slightly less bright than the Whelens, and
are still legal for experimentals.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 11:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: lights/power supplies
>
> I've searched the archives and felt like I wasted my time and just got
more
> confused.
>
> I want to order my RV6 tail kit and don't seem to have the answer for
which
> fiberglass molds to get to support whichever light combo I end up deciding
> to use.
>
> I am going to order a RV6A QB and I want to know what the cheapest light
> system is I can get away with (but not one that's hard to install or
> maintain) in the QBs and be night legal and IFR legal some day.
>
> The archives were full of miscellaneous data about single vs dual strobe
> power supplies, Cleveland vs Vans, etc but not presented in a way that
> resonated with me.
>
> So let's hear it. What's a good way to go and not spend $800 on lights?
> Or if you have to spend that much then what's really the best long term
> design?
>
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Santschi" <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Builders:
Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time.
Festus,MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support |
if you are looking for a simple hold open (with out gas strut) take a look
at mine on my web page www.flash.net/~hsierra it was made out of two pieces
of .125 X .5 stock and a block of nylon vans supplies for the canopy rod
blocks. works great and when closed it is behind the canopy frame so you
cannot even see it when the canopy is closed.
Bob Burns
RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Date: Saturday, February 26, 2000 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Extra Instruments for sale |
I have a new accelerometer I bought from Van's, Unused and I have no room
for $178.00 includes shipping inwhere in the U.S.
I also have an Airspeed in knots on the outside scale and MPH on the inside
scale. with RV-4/6 face markings by Edo-Aire. Has been remanufactored and
yellow tagged by Century instruments. It has not been used since
remanufactoring. $73.00 including shipping anywhere in the U.S.
Contact me direct at harje(at)proaxis.com
Have a great day!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDEggers(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: In flight pics, RV8 N94BD |
""""SPECTACULAR!!!!!!! Thanks for the memories.
RV8
Empenage
Wings
Sub Assemblies (panel, floors, seats)
Tomorrow the Fuselage!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: lights/power supplies |
>
>I've searched the archives and felt like I wasted my time and just got more
>confused.
>
>I want to order my RV6 tail kit and don't seem to have the answer for which
>fiberglass molds to get to support whichever light combo I end up deciding
>to use.
>
As others have noted, there is no "right" answer. If you really
can't make a decision yet, why not ask Van's to not send you a rudder
bottom fairing now. You'll be making lots more orders to them, so
you can have them send the "right" rudder bottom fairing later, with
one of the other orders. This way you can get that tail kit now and
start building.
Start looking at other RVs, and some day you'll see the "perfect" setup.
Happy building,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel sender & wiring |
I have two questions, First is everyone using the Vans sending unit for
the fuel tanks, or what do you recommend? No inverted flight in this plane.
And also what location is recommended for the wiring tube through the wing?
I'm about ready to assemble the ribs onto the spar and want to drill the
holes for the tubing.
Mike Rawls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Data RV-8A (Long) |
>
>Just nice to know if I ever need it. I opted not to put the door on the
>firewall mounted oil cooler and now wish I had. I had to cover the oil
>cooler with duct tape to get an acceptable oil temp in cold weather (below
>30 f). The door would have simply made this much easier and I'm sure I'll
>be installing it.
FWIW, I put a door on the rear of my oil cooler, which is mounted in front
of the #2 cylinder. For this installation it was more trouble than it was
worth. In cruise I get a max of about 10F temperature increase. I suspect
something in front of the cooler is much more effective than something
behind it. I suppose the front door position is normal for firewall mounted
oil coolers.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Optional rear seat rudder pedals are very crud... I'm designing a new and
improved rear rudder pedals... Larry
Chris Santschi wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Chris Santschi"
>
> Builders:
>
> Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
>
> Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time.
> Festus,MO.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender & wiring |
This is kind of a Ford/Chevy thing as far as senders are concerned. Some
say float, some say capacitance. I personally have the float senders, and
so do most flying airplanes today.
For the tube in the wing, open your holes for wiring to 1". I got vinyl
tubing from the hardware store (the kind we made beer bongs in college with)
and just shove it through the holes. You can easily pass wires through it,
and the tubing wall is pretty thick, so wear is going to be a non issue.
You can see a picture of mine at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/wings.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <MRawls3896(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 5:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel sender & wiring
>
> I have two questions, First is everyone using the Vans sending unit
for
> the fuel tanks, or what do you recommend? No inverted flight in this
plane.
> And also what location is recommended for the wiring tube through the
wing?
> I'm about ready to assemble the ribs onto the spar and want to drill the
> holes for the tubing.
>
> Mike Rawls
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Stall Warning Switch Location |
Listers,
A few folks have been following my project of adjusting my stall
warning switch tab location. After a bit of trial and error, I found a
pretty good spot for the stall warning tab depicted on my web site at
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/stall.htm . Rather than the 21 1/4"
dimension shown in the picture, I found that 20 7/8" worked well.
Using the 20 7/8" location, the stall horn comes on about 5 - 8
kts above stall break. The 21 1/4" position resulted in the horn not
coming on until a couple of knots before the stall
break, and in the case of flaps-deployed configuration, the stall horn
didn't come on even when the stall broke.
I think the angle of the tab effects the stall horn speed. That may be
the cause of the variation in position between my aircraft and Mr
Richardson's.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | NavAid Wing Leveler Installation |
I am in the process of installing a NavAid wing leveler under the passenger
seat of in my RV6A, and have a question, or need the opinions of others who
have already done so.
The instructions provided by NavAid show installations by two different
builders. One used a 3/4 x 3/4 angle along the top of the cut-away seat rib
to reinforce it after it was modified to allow for placement of the servo
unit. The second builder was silent on the idea.
How have you folks done it? The more I look at it, the less benefit I can
see from using the angle...it really doesn't seem to do much for strength,
but probably makes you feel better about having cut away that metal on the
rib.
If you did not use the angle, have you had second thoughts or problems?
I have lost my objectivity by now...looked at it too long trying to decide
if it really reinforces anything!
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Data RV-8A (Long) |
EAA chapter member Paul Golias used an interesting system to control the
airflow (and subsequent temptures) on his RV6. I've posted a picture of
this idea and some of his paint both ideas.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/paul_golias_ideas.htm
Mike & Beth Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 06:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Test Data RV-8A (Long)
>
>
> >
>
>
> >Just nice to know if I ever need it. I opted not to put the door on the
> >firewall mounted oil cooler and now wish I had. I had to cover the oil
> >cooler with duct tape to get an acceptable oil temp in cold weather
(below
> >30 f). The door would have simply made this much easier and I'm sure
I'll
> >be installing it.
>
> FWIW, I put a door on the rear of my oil cooler, which is mounted in front
> of the #2 cylinder. For this installation it was more trouble than it was
> worth. In cruise I get a max of about 10F temperature increase. I
suspect
> something in front of the cooler is much more effective than something
> behind it. I suppose the front door position is normal for firewall
mounted
> oil coolers.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Wing Leveler Installation |
John,
I used 3/4 x 3/4 x .063 on the passenger side outer most rib.
Then a 3/4 x 1 x .063 on the next rib towards the center. The
one you cut to make room for the servo. The spacing is perfect
for mounting nut plates to secure the servo. Leave yourself some
room fore and aft so you can get the push rod in as strait a line as
possible.
Hope it helps...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, Az
RV6 - Panel
>
>I am in the process of installing a NavAid wing leveler under the passenger
>seat of in my RV6A, and have a question, or need the opinions of others who
>have already done so.
>
>The instructions provided by NavAid show installations by two different
>builders. One used a 3/4 x 3/4 angle along the top of the cut-away seat rib
>to reinforce it after it was modified to allow for placement of the servo
>unit. The second builder was silent on the idea.
>
>How have you folks done it? The more I look at it, the less benefit I can
>see from using the angle...it really doesn't seem to do much for strength,
>but probably makes you feel better about having cut away that metal on the
>rib.
>
>If you did not use the angle, have you had second thoughts or problems?
>
>I have lost my objectivity by now...looked at it too long trying to decide
>if it really reinforces anything!
>
>RV6A Flying
>Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Anyone know if the air-struts for the canopys, from Van's, adjustable in
tension? Mine suddenly quit holding up the canopy.
Thanks,
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl |
> The 4th issue 1999 RVator p 13 talks about inclining the longitudinal
hinge
> line upwards towards the aft to create a "zipper" effect. I sure can't
> visualize how this works, but I guess I'm going to have to decide real
soon
> if I'm going to use it. Jim Sears has used it -- can others comment on
how
> it works and IF it works?
Dennis,
By all means do this. I got the updated drawing just after I'd drilled and
riveted the hinges, without any tilt. Tried putting the cowl on and taking
it off once or twice, then looked at the new plans and drilled off the
hinges and re-drilled them tilted. MUCH better.
Here's the deal. With the hinges installed straight, the curve of the aft
hinges will keep them in place even with the hinge pins in, unless you can
spread the sides out. But the sides won't pull out if the bottom-to-top
hinge line is centered on the split, because half the hinge eyes from the
top cowl are below the level of the bottom cowl and vice versa. If you tilt
the hinge per the plans, then the top hinge eyes are free to pop out
laterally once the pins are pulled, then you can "zipper' off the rear
curved ones.
Hope this makes it clearer...?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs, in the paint shop)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruno's Mail Box" <fo320(at)sympatico.ca> |
"RVLIST" , "Ronald Page" ,
"Roger Provost" ,
"Robert March" ,
"Pierre Perreault" ,
"Microsoft" ,
"Michele and Chris Pulley" ,
"Michel Dionne" ,
"Michael Dion" ,
"Kevin Horton" ,
"Joe Oakley" <75441.117(at)compuserve.com>,
"Jacques Dorion" ,
"Gerard Chartray" ,
"Denis Claveau" ,
"Dave Inch" , "Daniel Dionne" ,
"Claude Vidal" ,
"Christian Lavoie" ,
"Alain Lemire"
| Subject: | FW: VIRUS warning |
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael E. Ronan [mailto:ronanair(at)accglobal.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 11:17 PM
Bruno's Mail Box
Subject: VIRUS warning
Hi everyone...... we got nailed by a virus tonight from Brad Muir. He
twigged a little too late and then sent this fix on to me, and I want to
pass this msg on to all of you. I guess it gets into your address book and
happily sends it onward to anybody in your 'sent' list. (not too sure
though exactly how it works)
We went thru the process here and it cleaned up the computer ok.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Muir/Melanie Stoughton <bradnmel(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Subject: I got suckered by a WORM Virus!!!
>
>
> My apologies to all of you I inadvertently sent the Pretty Park WORM Virus
> to. Seem I got suckered by opening an attachment.
>
> Special mention goes to Miki Pazcek for sending it to me!!!!
> mikigrant(at)home.com
>
> I am still trying to figure out why Norton Anti-virus 2000 did NOT catch
> it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> For instructions on cleaning your system:
>
> PrettyPark.Worm
>
> Aliases: Trojan Horse, W32.PrettyPark, Trojan.PSW.CHV, CHV
> Infection Length: 37,376
> Area of Infection: C:\Windows\System, Registry, Email Attachments
> Likelihood: Common
> Detected as of: June 1, 1999
> Characteristics: Worm, PrettyPark.EXE, Files32.VXD
>
>
> Description
>
> This is a worm program that behaves similar to Happy99 Worm. This worm
> program was originally spread by email spamming from a French email
address.
>
> The attached program file is named "PrettyPark.EXE". The original report
of
> this worm was submitted through our exclusive Scan&Deliver system on May
28,
> 1999 from France.
>
> When the attached program called "PrettyPark.EXE" is executed, it may
> display the 3D pipe screen saver. It will also create a file called
> FILES32.VXD in the WINDOWS\SYSTEM directory and modify the following
> registry entry value from "%1" %* to FILES32.VXD "%1" %* without your
> knowledge:
>
> HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Classes\exefile\shell\open\command
> Once the worm program is executed, it will try to email itself
automatically
> every 30 minutes (or 30 minutes after it is loaded) to email addresses
> registered in your Internet address book.
>
> It will also try to connect to an IRC server and join a specific IRC
> channel. The worm will send information to IRC every 30 seconds to keep
> itself connected, and to retrieve any commands from the IRC channel.
>
> Via IRC, the author or distributor of the worm can obtain system
information
> including the computer name, product name, product identifier, product
key,
> registered owner, registered organization, system root path, version,
> version number, ICQ identification numbers, ICQ nicknames, victims email
> address, and Dial Up Networking username and passwords. In addition, being
> connected to IRC opens a security hole in which the client can potentially
> be used to receive and execute files.
>
> Norton AntiVirus will detect PrettyPark.Worm as "Trojan Horse" with June
1,
> 1999 virus definitions. With the June 9, 1999 definitions or later, the
worm
> will be detected as "PrettyPark.Worm."
>
> Repair Information
>
> Removing this worm manually:
>
> Using REGEDIT, modify the Registry entry
>
> HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Classes\exefile\
> shell\open\command
>
> from
>
> FILES32.VXD "%1" %* to "%1" %*
>
>
> (You may launch REGEDIT through Windows Start-menu-RUN. Then search for
> "FILES32.VXD" in REGEDIT.)
>
>
> Delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\FILES32.VXD
> Delete the "Pretty Park.EXE" file.
> Reboot your computer.
> You need to do step #1 above; otherwise, executable files may not run
> properly if you simply delete FILES32.VXD
>
> IF YOU RE-BOOT and can NOT run any programs, re-bbot to DOS and change to
> the C:\windows directory, run SCANREG.EXE and restore a backup copy of
your
> registry, then re-boot!!!!!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael E. Ronan <ronanair(at)accglobal.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 8:26 PM
> Subject: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl |
Oops -- that should read:
> Here's the deal. With the hinges installed straight, the curve of the aft
> hinges will keep them in place even WITHOUT the hinge pins in...
>
Randall :-}
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Installation |
> I am installing the trays for the radios in my 8A. UPS Aviation Technology
> SL30, SL70 & SL50. I didn't receive the radios yet, but I want to
> permanently install the trays.
>
> My question: Do the trays mount flush to the rear of the panel, or does
the
> tray stick though the panel & lie flush with the face of the panel. The
> installation manual does not address this. I am leaning towards having the
> tray stick through the panel & lie flush with the face for additional
> support, but not having the radios I am not sure if it will work. Any
advice
> would be appreciated.......Mark
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8A Dallas, TX
Mark,
I just finished mounting an SL-40 and SL-70 in my RV-8. You can see the
install at http://home.pacifier.com/~randyl/pgPanel.htm. To answer your
question, mount the front edge of the trays flush with the panel surface.
The electronics will then protrude forward another 5/8" or so. There are
mounting holes just inside the front sides of the trays designed to mount in
an "avionics rack". The pics on my site show this pretty clearly.
Have fun!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, fwf plumbing & wiring
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl |
I still don't see the advantage of the tilted hinge. Why not put the entire
hinge line for the longitudinal hinge above the lower cowl edge? Then the
upper cowl can be squeezed in to alignment for pin insertion and will splay
out upon pin removal. This sure is confusing to me!
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Date: Sunday, February 27, 2000 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl
>
>> The 4th issue 1999 RVator p 13 talks about inclining the longitudinal
>hinge
>> line upwards towards the aft to create a "zipper" effect. I sure can't
>> visualize how this works, but I guess I'm going to have to decide real
>soon
>> if I'm going to use it. Jim Sears has used it -- can others comment on
>how
>> it works and IF it works?
>
>Dennis,
>
>By all means do this. I got the updated drawing just after I'd drilled and
>riveted the hinges, without any tilt. Tried putting the cowl on and taking
>it off once or twice, then looked at the new plans and drilled off the
>hinges and re-drilled them tilted. MUCH better.
>
>Here's the deal. With the hinges installed straight, the curve of the aft
>hinges will keep them in place even with the hinge pins in, unless you can
>spread the sides out. But the sides won't pull out if the bottom-to-top
>hinge line is centered on the split, because half the hinge eyes from the
>top cowl are below the level of the bottom cowl and vice versa. If you tilt
>the hinge per the plans, then the top hinge eyes are free to pop out
>laterally once the pins are pulled, then you can "zipper' off the rear
>curved ones.
>
>Hope this makes it clearer...?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs, in the paint shop)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Larry, a few of us are interested in doing a rear-seat solo setup on the -8
and would appreciate seeing your rudder pedal design when you get it done.
Keep us posted here, ok?
Andy Johnson, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Back Spacing RV6-A-QB |
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> List: I am moving right along on my kit ( Just under 2 mo.) and have run
> into a small bone of contention. I see via my manual and the plans that no
> specific distance is called out for spacing between the seats?
> My George Orndorf Tapes call for 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 in. between
> seats. I assume to allow for the the electric flap assembly.
Tom,
I followed George and then had to move my seatbacks inboard 1/2" or so
-- the critical thing is that the back should miss the reinforcement
gusset on top of the F605.
I'm building a regular-build, with tip-up canopy and manual flaps, so
YMMV.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cable and Hose Lengths |
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
> What are the rules of thumb on determining hose and push pull cable lengths?
For instance, what bend radius should I shoot for when running the throttle and
mixture cables? What's the minimum acceptable radius?
Responce for control cables only.
ACS recommends 5 inch mimimum bend radius for all control cables. The
tighter the bend, the more force that is required and more wear. The
control will not be smooth. The cable end should be approximately 90
degrees to the lever arm when it is at mid stroke.
To ensure fair cable runs and to verify the lengths, I made a full scale
2D layout on a scrap of plywood. I drew a reference line for the
firewall and then located the throttle and mixture arms (full throttle,
full rich), and the bracket below the instrument panel. I used a .25
inch poly tube (like for the static pressure system) to fair the cables
and locate the holes in the firewall. Measure the poly tube from the
bracket to the full forward position and make allowance for the end
fitting and thread engagement.
I am building a RV-6A with an O-360-A1A and MA4-5 carb. The cables will
run "fair" if you drill holes 3.5 and 5 inches above the bottom edge of
the bottom angle of the firewall and 3.25 inches to the right side of
the centerline and run them to a horizontal subpanel mounted just below
the instrument panel.
I used Vans vernier cables. For the throttle, I ordered a CT BLUE VPROP
45.5 (45.5 inches) and painted the knob black. For the mixture, I
ordered a CT RED VMIXTURE 39.5 (39.5 inches).
For the MA4-5 carb, you must use the rod end bearings, CT BEARING MW-3M
with 5702-75-60 and 5702-475-48 Z3 washers, AN3-11A bolt and MS21042
nut. You will need a .25 X .1875 bushing to reduce the .25 inch hole in
the mixture lever arm.
I made a serious modification (rebuilt it entirely) to Vans
throttle/mixture cable bracket VA-149. Using centerline of the mounting
studs on the aft side of the carb as the reference, the throttle hole is
5.44 inches aft, 3.56 inches to the right and 1.00 inches below. The
face of the hole is twisted 5 degrees to the left. The mixture hole is
8.56 inches aft, 3.56 inches to the right and 1.00 inches below. The
face of the hole is twisted 17 degrees to the left.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, cowl, wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Installation |
Mark Steffensen wrote:
> I am installing the trays for UPS SL30, SL70 & SL50.
> Do the trays mount flush to the rear of the panel, or does the
> tray stick though the panel & lie flush with the face of the panel?
Mount the trays flush to the forward face of the panel.
When you get the connector mounting bracket installed in the rear of the
tray, and the radio (sorry, avionic unit) installed, you are supposed to
check the clearance between the aft side of the face plate and the
forward edge of the tray and then verifty it upon final installation.
This insures that the connectors are fully seated.
Mount the tray to angles screwed to the panel and do it in way that you
can fully remove the tray later and turn the tray right side up if you
installed the locking slot in the wrong position. (Don't ask how I
know!) Use 4-40 flat head screws (with the flat head inside) in the
holes provided in side of the tray to mount the trays to the angle.
For the SL30, SL50, and SL70, the locking slot is down.
You can down load the manuals at the UPS web site at
<http://www.upsat.com/> , but they don't show these "fine" points.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, cowling, wiring, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cardboard Panel Planner |
Norman Hunger wrote:
> What is the minimum recommended instrument spacing for 0.063 sheet?
> Can they be closer if 0.090 sheet is used?
I used 3.875 horizontal and 4.0 vertical for the 3.375 instruments in
the .063 panel. Most 2.25 instruments are really 2.6 behind the panel.
Be sure to allow for flanges (F645, etc) and angles (avionics).
On the RV-6A tip up, the panel really stiffens up when you get the
F645's installed and the avonics trays tied to both the instrument panel
and sub panel.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, cowl and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Struts? |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
... are the air-struts for the canopys adjustable in tension?
No. Did you install then with the big end up?
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV4 Fuselage Question |
My F450 angles (lower front longerons) do not mate with the F404 bulkhead as
well as I would like. It looks like the firewall bottom weldments should
point a little more outboard and upward. The error is only about 3/8 inch in
each direction and Van's said just pull it in place. If I had my choice
about it, I would prefer to build the fuselage without any built-in
stresses. Did any of you bend the F450's to make them fit or did you just
pull them into place? If I put a bend in them, will it cause me problems
with the skins?
Mark McGee
RV4 Fuselage
Upstate NY
Moving to Atlanta in May
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Wing Leveler Installation |
John,
We installed ours per the instructions using the angle to reinforce that
rib. You may create a weak spot on the floor if you do not use the angle.
It may or may not cause a problem in the future. We have been very pleased
with the performance of the NavAid unit.............George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cardboard Panel Planner |
Don't get to agressive to try to save some space. Someday you will need to
remove some instruments or otherwise need to visually inspect something up
there. You need tool-swing room. Also, replacing instruments...various
manfuacters have different housing sizes so if you squeeze out to much space you
may not be able to add/delete/update your instrument hole useage.
RVReynolds(at)macs.net on 02/27/2000 09:57:07 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cardboard Panel Planner
Norman Hunger wrote:
> What is the minimum recommended instrument spacing for 0.063 sheet?
> Can they be closer if 0.090 sheet is used?
I used 3.875 horizontal and 4.0 vertical for the 3.375 instruments in
the .063 panel. Most 2.25 instruments are really 2.6 behind the panel.
Be sure to allow for flanges (F645, etc) and angles (avionics).
On the RV-6A tip up, the panel really stiffens up when you get the
F645's installed and the avonics trays tied to both the instrument panel
and sub panel.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, cowl and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Vans Parking brake installation |
Does anyone have a picture available to see how you installed
Van's parking brake? (it is a Matco unit) Specifically, how you
ran the cable at the valve.
Thanks...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Galls Flasher Wiring |
To those of you scratching your heads over how to wire the Galls Traffic
Flasher, I hooked it up on a test circuit that seems to work. If you would
like to see my diagram, I have posted it on a web page at:
www.rv8asite.homestead.com/gallsflasher.html
This wiring gives me a switch with the down position=off, middle=both on,
up=flash.
Note that this uses a 2-10 DPDT switch (on-on-on), that I got from Bob
Nuckolls. Also, there is no relay in the wiring to protect the switch - Sam
Buchanon used a Radio Shack 275-226.
Finally, you may want to install a smaller fuse, perhaps a 2 amp fuse,
instead of the 5 amp that I show on the diagram going to position one on the
switch. E-mail me off list if you have trouble opening or downloading this
bmp file, and I will send it to you as an attachment.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
Playing with flashing lights
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Seat Back Spacing RV 6 A QB |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
tom,
are you building a tip-up or slider?
you have to be very careful here. yes, you have to leave some room in
between the seats for the electric flap assembly.
however, you also have to get clearance on the sides from the armrest, but
more importantly from your canopy roll bar (assuming a tip-up! if you're
building a slider you'll have to ask someone else if any of the canopy
components are an issue.) i think in the tapes george is building a slider.
anyway, on one of vans drawings, a 4" spacing is called out. well, if you
use a 4" gap between seats, you are guaranteed to have the
outboard top corner of the seat frame scratching against the canopy roll
bar.
here's the math... 42" between the longerons, seats are 16" wide, plus a 4"
gap leaves you with 6" of clearance, or just 3" per side... (42 - (2*16) -
4) / 2 = 3
guess what, the roll bar itself is a little over 3", plus the mounting
brackets are 1/8" thick. don't forget to leave a little room for paint and
vibration.
bottom line, i would not drill the hinges for the seat bottoms yet until i
had installed both the flap assembly and the canopy roll bar. i wish i had
waited...your hinges will probably end up overlapping onto the flanges of
the flap side covers.
if you absolutely can't wait (there's no good reason not to wait though...),
and you are building a tip-up, then i would use no more than 3.5" between
the seats, which will give you about 3.25" on the sides.
good luck,
louis cappucci
rv-6a qb tip-up
finish kit
>
>List: I am moving right along on my kit ( Just under 2 mo.) and have run
>into a small bone of contention. I see via my manual and the plans that no
>specific distance is called out for spacing between the seats?
> My George Orndorf Tapes call for 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 in. between
>seats. I assume to allow for the the electric flap assembly.
> Allowing for 1/8 in. spacing from my armrests i can only get a
>Max. of 3 7/8 in.? What gives,or am i ok?
> Ready to start skinning fuselage ! It is 70 degrees in Ohio and
>i can primer in the driveway.
>
> Tom in Ohio (362CT)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Struts? |
>
>Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>>
> ... are the air-struts for the canopys adjustable in tension?
>
>No. Did you install then with the big end up?
>
>Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
I'll take a look when I go to the airport. Is there 'this end up or down'
to them?
They did a fine job until a couple of days ago. Then the canopy slammed
down, cushioned by my hand
which had a grip on the roll-over bar. The hand is healing nicely.
I pushed the canopy back up and it would not stay there. ??
Have a great day!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Gas filled strut for canopy support |
Dave some of the -4 guy,s including myself use a folding 2 bar system that folds
like an elbow (similar to a briefcase retainer) it attaches to the roll bar and
the
cross brace of the canopy skirt and folds out of way between the roll bar and
the cross brace, could fax a sketch or e-mail an Autocad sketch.
hope this helps.
Wayne RV-4 weighed this weekend 947 lbs. no paint.
>
> Listers:
>
> . If anyone has used one successfully and has anything to say please reply.
>
> Dave Aronson
> N504RV Engine Mount next.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Frisby" <whamo(at)gci.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 02/27/00 |
I am looking for used RV building tools in good condition. Does anyone know
of some for sale?
Steve Frisby
Palmer Alaska
preview plans, RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Back Spacing RV 6 A QB |
You don't HAVE to leave room in the center for the electric flap assy. Mel
Jordon published a modification that moved his electric flap assembly. It
can be seen here:
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/flap_mod.htm
>
> are you building a tip-up or slider?
>
> you have to be very careful here. yes, you have to leave some room in
> between the seats for the electric flap assembly.
>
> >
> >List: I am moving right along on my kit ( Just under 2 mo.) and have run
> >into a small bone of contention. I see via my manual and the plans that
no
> >specific distance is called out for spacing between the seats?
> > My George Orndorf Tapes call for 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 in. between
> >seats. I assume to allow for the the electric flap assembly.
> > Allowing for 1/8 in. spacing from my armrests i can only get
a
> >Max. of 3 7/8 in.? What gives,or am i ok?
> > Ready to start skinning fuselage ! It is 70 degrees in Ohio
and
> >i can primer in the driveway.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Data RV-8A (Long) |
Bill,
I am building an RV8A also. Could you tell me what you had for an empty
weight and what you picked for gross?
Bill C. Phoenix, RV8A, wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 7:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Test Data RV-8A (Long)
>
>
> Hi All,
> Couple of numbers for those interested.
> So far I've seen a Speed of 175 mph (GS) at 2400 rpm and 6k ft with
> 0-320-D2A and Sensenich FP prop. This was measured by GPS runs and
> averaging although the speed in opposite direction on this particular day
> were only 3 knots different. This is without wheel pants and gear leg
> fairings. If Van's estimate is accurate I should get another 10 kts with
> these installed. So it looks like cruise will be about 185 mph (GS) or so
> with the 0-320.
>
> I'm getting climb rates at over 1500fpm (solo) at 90-100 mph but the CHT
> makes a beeline for redline at that angle. I can easily get 1000 fpm at
> 110-120 mph and the CHT is much happier. The plane will lift off at
> slightly over 60 mph but if I hold it on the runway until I get to 75-80
it
> literally leaps off the ground and can climb out at a ridiculous angle.
> Just nice to know if I ever need it. I opted not to put the door on the
> firewall mounted oil cooler and now wish I had. I had to cover the oil
> cooler with duct tape to get an acceptable oil temp in cold weather (below
> 30 f). The door would have simply made this much easier and I'm sure I'll
> be installing it. Also, I have the 9" heat muff and it is not adequate.
I
> have it stuffed with some stainless steel scrubbing pads now and have
> blocked off half the airflow through it trying to slow down the air thus
> giving it more time to heat. At 34-35 degrees and higher it is ok but
> below freezing and especially below 25 degrees f it is just blowing cold
> air. Gotta work on that problem. The airplane is also pretty drafty
> around the rear stick hole in the floor and around the slider track on the
> rear of the canopy.
>
> I fixed my heavy wing problem by using the old tried and true squeezing of
> the light aileron. I tweaked it very lightly over several sessions until
> it was right. The plane now flys hands and feet off.
>
> I've done some stability tests on all axis and haven't discovered any
> problems. The plane has displayed neutral to positive stability on all
> axis although to me the pitch stability seems slow in coming. I have no
> real idea of what to expect, so it may not really be slow.
>
> Controls are very light and the plane is a joy to fly. I'm still trying
to
> get used to the view over the nose as I have a tendancy to bring the nose
> too high on the horizon and climb. Just not used to all that visibility.
> Stalls are straight forward with a moderate pre-stall buffet. Power must
> be pulled waaaaaay back to get down to pattern speed and I usually pull
> back to 1200 abeam the numbers and 1000 on base. I hold 1000 (adjusting
as
> needed of course) and hold 80 on final, pulling power to idle over the
> numbers. One thing I have noticed is that if I'm high on final that full
> flaps (40 degrees) and idle power creates a sink rate like a rock. It's
> better to hold in a little power (1000rpm) and use flaps and side-slip to
> drop the altitude.
>
> I used .063 aluminum and platenuts all around the cowl and it makes it
> really easy to remove/install the cowl. Only a couple minutes to remove
> and maybe 5 to reinstall. The drawback is that its already starting to
> take a beating around the screws.
>
> On comfort, I have seats from D.J. Lauretsen(sp) at Cleaveland Tool with
> conforfoam inserts. They are incredibly comfortable. My longest flight
> has been 2.5 hours. I'm no midget (6'1" 250lbs) and I'm completely
> comfortable in this airplane.
>
> Don't know what else to tell ya except that, as many have said
> before....You're gonna love this airplane!
>
>
> Bill Pagan
> RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy aileron, rigging , heavy wing |
>
> I fixed my heavy wing problem by using the old tried and true squeezing of
> the light aileron. I tweaked it very lightly over several sessions until
> it was right. The plane now flys hands and feet off.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Tool Quest II: The Reality Check |
Hola,
Thanks to all for the helpful tool advice. Ever thankful for my total
lack of a life, I went through the useful excercise of listing all the
tools I thought would be useful, and their prices at Avery's and
Cleaveland's:
http://www.ffd2.com/rv/tools
(That is, btw, is the extent of my very exciting RV webpage.) I then
added up all the tools I wanted, using the cheapest prices, and came up
with about $3000.
At this point, it is helpful to think of me, not as "Steve Judd", but as
"Jack Benny". Other useful visualization aids are a 16-ton weight falling
on someone, and Charlie Brown being hit by a baseball, spinning in the air
going "AUUUUGH!" and landing on his back with all clothes mysteriously
lying around him.
Once I got my wits together and my clothes back on I did some more
research and analysis, and I have a few more questions on RV-8 tools
and understanding the issues.
Drills:
1) Does anyone have any experience with the Chicago Pneumatic air drill
sold by Harbor Freight for $68? (2100 RPM, ~ 2lbs.)
2) As a practical matter, how important are RPMs for drilling aluminum?
As in, what kind of differences will be observed between a 500 RPM
drill (cordless) and a 2500 RPM drill (air).
Rivet Squeezer:
3) After reading many archive listings and web pages, I came to the
conclusion that there are 3 basic yokes: the 3" yoke, the longeron
yoke, and the no-hole yoke. Yokes are doggone expensive chunks of
steel. 3a) Are all of the above yokes truly worthwhile? 3b) Would
it be possible to fabricate my own yokes?
4) Universal sets: The RV-list FAQ lists 1/8 and 3/32 sets. Van's lists
1/8 and 3/16 sets. Which is correct, 3/32 or 3/16?
5) Flat sets: FAQ says 1/8 and 3/32. Van says 1/2 and 3/8. Which is
accurate?
Rivet cutter:
6) Using some brilliant insight, I have deduced that a rivet cutter is
used for cutting rivets. As a practical matter, what is the difference
between the $20, $50, and $100 models? (I assume that the $20 model
doesn't always make a perpendicular cut, and the $100 model is mega
industrial-strength, and that the $50 model is a good compromise).
Quicksnip:
7) Cleaveland's lists a nifty-looking tool called a quicksnip. Is this
tool "better" than the Wiss snips/nibbler combo?
Air compressor:
8) Harbor Freight sells a DeVilbiss compressor, 7 cfm @ 90 psi, for $280.
This looks like a really good deal to me; the nearest Cambell-Hausfeld
if 5.9 cfm @ 90 psi for $350. On the other hand, I have exactly
zero experience and no real idea what I'm talking about. Does
anyone have any experience with this compressor? (There is no
indication that it might be e.g. an oil-free pump).
(P.S. I did not see the "genesis" compressor that some mentioned.)
Okee dokee then, a mere eight questions, and then I'm off to take the
plunge and get rid of that nasty positive cash flow that's been plaguing
me this last year.
Thanks,
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
I've obtained an AN5814 heated pitot tube (with static source), along with a
Gretz mount for it and am now wondering how to hook this all together.
What sort of line and fittings do I need to obtain for my pitot and static
lines? Do I need snap bushings or grommets of some sort for the holes in the
ribs, or can I just feed the tubing through? Do I need some sort of bulkhead
fitting for the root rib? What about the electrical connection for the
heating element? Will I need to do any soldering? I've never soldered
anything in my life and am worried that I'll screw up an expensive new pitot
tube.
I've got to admit that I've run right up against my own ignorance here. I
could tell you how all this stuff works, but not how it's put together.
Shameful, really.
Funny how, as this project goes along, I seem to be merely progressing from
one area of trepidation to another. It's periodically taken another
perspective, either my wife's or a friend's, to open my eyes to the progress
I'm making toward my goal of owning and flying this fabulous machine.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings getting there, fuselage coming in early April
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tool Quest II: The Reality Check |
> 1) Does anyone have any experience with the Chicago Pneumatic air drill
> sold by Harbor Freight for $68? (2100 RPM, ~ 2lbs.)
>
It is not a Chicago Pneumatic, it is a "Central Pneumatic", a knock off. I
had one for two years that made it through my kit without problems, although
it is rather loud.
> 2) As a practical matter, how important are RPMs for drilling aluminum?
IMHO, faster RPM's keep errors to a minimum, and will make a rounder hole.
> As in, what kind of differences will be observed between a 500 RPM
> drill (cordless) and a 2500 RPM drill (air).
About 2000 RPM's. Sorry for the smart ass answer..couldn't resist it.
>
> Rivet Squeezer:
>
> 3) After reading many archive listings and web pages, I came to the
> conclusion that there are 3 basic yokes: the 3" yoke, the longeron
> yoke, and the no-hole yoke. Yokes are doggone expensive chunks of
> steel. 3a) Are all of the above yokes truly worthwhile?
I built my quickbuild with a 3 inch yoke. I heard that the longeron yoke is
nice to have, but not necessary..you can buck those rivets. Don't know
about a no hole yoke.
3b) Would
> it be possible to fabricate my own yokes?
Not worth it. It would take some hefty machining on some expensive hard
materials.
>
> 4) Universal sets: The RV-list FAQ lists 1/8 and 3/32 sets. Van's lists
> 1/8 and 3/16 sets. Which is correct, 3/32 or 3/16?
3/16 for spar rivets....
> 5) Flat sets: FAQ says 1/8 and 3/32. Van says 1/2 and 3/8. Which is
> accurate?
3/32
>
> Rivet cutter:
I have the $20 job..works fine. Your shop head will be flattened by your
bucking bar anyway, so the shape of the cut wouldn't matter IMHO.
>
> Quicksnip:
>
> 7) Cleaveland's lists a nifty-looking tool called a quicksnip. Is this
> tool "better" than the Wiss snips/nibbler combo?
No experience..
>
> Air compressor:
>
> 8) Harbor Freight sells a DeVilbiss compressor, 7 cfm @ 90 psi, for $280.
> This looks like a really good deal to me; the nearest Cambell-Hausfeld
> if 5.9 cfm @ 90 psi for $350. On the other hand, I have exactly
> zero experience and no real idea what I'm talking about. Does
> anyone have any experience with this compressor? (There is no
> indication that it might be e.g. an oil-free pump).
Sounds like a good deal. IMHO, you need 10 SCFM, though for die grinders
and such..my Cambpell Hausfeld was $399. It is a 10.4 SCFM free standing,
two stage, 60 gallon monster...worth the few extra bucks, BELIEVE ME! (oh
yeah, its 220 volt, so make sure you are equipped)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware] |
Ken,
I recently installed that pitot tube in my -6 and was happy with the
way it came out. I ran the pitot/static lines per the plans, using snap
bushings everywhere it penetrated wing ribs. On the rib just inboard
of the bay where the pitot tube was mounted, I installed two unions
through the rib and attached the pitot/static lines to them. In the bay
with the pitot tube, I used two small pieces of aluminum tube to tie
the pitot tube to the union in the rib. The bend on the short pieces
of tubing were kinda funky to allow the pitot tube to be installed and
removed and took a couple of hours to get just right. I plan on using
unions or elbows on the fuse pentration.
If you opt to try something like this, cleco all the wing skins on
before final closure and make sure you can install and remove the pitot
tube - it's easy to get into trouble there. I also painted one line
and labeled all lines to aid in matching the pitot->pitot/static->static.
Can't help you with the electical, not there yet. All I've done so far
is install a grounding point on one of the ribs..
Hope this helps,
Tom Gesele
RV-6 #25465 - Finishing up wings
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
I've obtained an AN5814 heated pitot tube (with static source), along with a
Gretz mount for it and am now wondering how to hook this all together.
--snip--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings getting there, fuselage coming in early April
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Amps vs. Volts... |
Bill,
As Brian indicated, volts and amps each show different things. I'd recommend
you take the time to understand what they are each indicating before
deciding. BTW, the best way to do this is to get Bob Nuckoll's book, the
AeroElectric Connection. It's an entertaining read and very educational. As
Mike Robbins recommended to you, get the Electronics International VA-1 and
get both volt and amp indications. I have had this gauge on my last two
airplanes and wouldn't be without it. Also, the external shunt version is
much more flexible in providing options for what the amp portion is
reading... see further comments below.
Couple of other thoughts... if I did HAVE to choose I would personally
choose a volt meter. I'm sure others will have other opinions, but knowing
your bus voltage can tell you a lot about everything in your electrical
system. Regarding amp meters, there are several ways to wire them so that
they tell you different things. The traditional amp meter that Brian
referenced that shows both charge and discharge requires that the alternator
output penetrate the firewall and connect to the bus. Electric Bob suggests
routing the alternator output to the always-hot side of the starter
contactor thereby eliminating a firewall penetration. With this setup you
can't wire the amp meter to show both charge and discharge, but there are
many other useful possibilities.
Get out your Van's wiring diagram, and then get out Bob Nuckoll's diagrams
which are in his book. Bob has put some very fresh and useful thinking into
these plans while Van's is very traditional. I designed my system as a bit
of a hybrid taking what I consider to be the best of both. I actually
enjoyed this process very much and would be happy to discuss it further with
you.
Randy Lervold
#80500, a plumbing and a wirin
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Fuselage Question |
I had no problem with the bottom as they fit OK. The top longerons
required a slight twist.
Earl RV4 finishing kit
Mark McGee wrote:
>
>
> My F450 angles (lower front longerons) do not mate with the F404 bulkhead as
> well as I would like. It looks like the firewall bottom weldments should
> point a little more outboard and upward. The error is only about 3/8 inch in
> each direction and Van's said just pull it in place. If I had my choice
> about it, I would prefer to build the fuselage without any built-in
> stresses. Did any of you bend the F450's to make them fit or did you just
> pull them into place? If I put a bend in them, will it cause me problems
> with the skins?
>
> Mark McGee
> RV4 Fuselage
> Upstate NY
> Moving to Atlanta in May
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Data RV-8A (Long) |
I came in at 1031 lbs. with a no gyro panel. I'm using 1800 as my gross.
You can see my W & B spreadsheet at the Airport 2 link on my website.
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>Bill,
>I am building an RV8A also. Could you tell me what you had for an empty
>weight and what you picked for gross?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Struts? |
Denny, one of my Vans struts failed shortly after installation. I am
sure it was simply a defective strut. I talked with Vans and was given
a return number...I then sent both struts back and Vans was very nice to
replace them. I suspect you have a defective strut regardless of which
end is up!
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A out of first annual
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> Anyone know if the air-struts for the canopys, from Van's, adjustable in
> tension? Mine suddenly quit holding up the canopy.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Denny
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Oil Filter |
>
> A couple of weeks ago, there was a posting about an RV accident caused by
an
> auto oil filter bursting. Evidently this was not archived. If someone
saved
> that item, would you please repost it or forward it to me off list.
Thanks.
>
> John Brick
I think that was in the last RVator.
Scott Sawby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 Fuselage Question |
>Mark McGee wrote:
> >
> >
> > My F450 angles (lower front longerons) do not mate with the F404
> bulkhead as
> > well as I would like. It looks like the firewall bottom weldments should
> > point a little more outboard and upward. The error is only about 3/8
> inch in
> > each direction and Van's said just pull it in place. If I had my choice
> > about it, I would prefer to build the fuselage without any built-in
> > stresses. Did any of you bend the F450's to make them fit or did you just
> > pull them into place? If I put a bend in them, will it cause me problems
> > with the skins?
> >
> > Mark McGee
> > RV4 Fuselage
> > Upstate NY
> > Moving to Atlanta in May
> >
I had the same problem with the top longerons. The bottoms fit fine. Tom
at Vans told me to just tweak the longeron to make it fit. Like you I didnt
want to do that and mine was off just a slight amount so I was able to bend
the angles enough to make it work.
I notice this problem on a lot of RV4s. You have to really look for it
because the cowl cheeks hide it. That wont work for me with the Mazda
engine because I'm going with a cheekless cowl.
Mike Wills
RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Installation |
| From: | "William R. Davis Jr" <rvpilot(at)juno.com> |
writes:
>
>
> Lister's,
>
> I am installing the trays for the radios in my 8A. UPS Aviation
> Technology
> SL30, SL70 & SL50. I didn't receive the radios yet, but I want to
> permanently install the trays.
>
> My question: Do the trays mount flush to the rear of the panel, or
> does the
> tray stick though the panel & lie flush with the face of the panel.
> The
> installation manual does not address this. I am leaning towards
> having the
> tray stick through the panel & lie flush with the face for
> additional
> support, but not having the radios I am not sure if it will work.
> Any advice
> would be appreciated.......Mark
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8A Dallas, TX
> Mark,
I cant vouch for the SL-30 & the SL-50 but I can tell you that the SL-70
and the SL-40 trays need to mount flush with the front face of the panel.
I suspect that the SL-30 & 50 would be the same since they all are of the
new generation of UPS Avionics. The GX-55 is another animal & it needs to
be flush with the back face of the panel.
Regards, Bill N66WD
N48WD almost done
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tool Quest II: The Reality Check |
>
>
> 2) As a practical matter, how important are RPMs for drilling aluminum?
> As in, what kind of differences will be observed between a 500 RPM
> drill (cordless) and a 2500 RPM drill (air).
>
> ***You will get much cleaner and rounder holes with a higher RPM drill. I
> would not use an elec. drill on my RV...
Please tell me why you would not use an electric drill? My cordless has drilled
many a hole in my RV
>
>
> 4) Universal sets: The RV-list FAQ lists 1/8 and 3/32 sets. Van's lists
> 1/8 and 3/16 sets. Which is correct, 3/32 or 3/16?
>
> ***3/32
I have seen 3/32 listed in a couple of replies and this is not correct. There
is little need for 3/32 dies in building an RV. If you are building your own
wing spar then you need the 3/16 dies as Van's recomends. The few 3/32 rivets
that need to be squeezed can be done with flat sets.
>
>
> 5) Flat sets: FAQ says 1/8 and 3/32. Van says 1/2 and 3/8. Which is
> accurate?
It is nice to have both diameters of flats. 3/8 and 1/2
>
>
> ***You will need the Avery swivel head flush set...
>
> Rivet cutter:
>
> 6) Using some brilliant insight, I have deduced that a rivet cutter is
> used for cutting rivets. As a practical matter, what is the difference
> between the $20, $50, and $100 models? (I assume that the $20 model
> doesn't always make a perpendicular cut, and the $100 model is mega
> industrial-strength, and that the $50 model is a good compromise).
>
> ***I don't have one, and haven't needed one yet... IMO, you could use
> dikes, and clean up the shop head with a wheel before use...
Not a good idea. Get a rivet cutter. Granted there are not many times you need
a shorter rivet but when you do a rivet cutter is indispensable. I have used
the $20 model and find it works OK.
Gary Zilik
N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | instrument panel angle for gyros |
Question:
Has anyone had trouble adjusting the "little airplane" in the attitude
gyro in their RV-6/6A to compensate for the the 7-8 forward instrument
panel tilt? I just saw one RV-6A where the owner had to install washers
between the inst. panel and the bottom mounting screws to be able to
"level" his instrument. I don't know the gyro make/model but it was an
older type without the blue-above/brown-below color scheme.
I've been flying my plane without the AI/DI gyros so I don't smoke 'em
as I practice aerobatics.
Appreciate any comments.
Boyd.
RV Super 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Back Spacing RV6-A-QB |
Thanks Frank it looks like i am probably ok. ( So to speak) Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Seat Back Spacing RV6-A-QB
>
> Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> > List: I am moving right along on my kit ( Just under 2 mo.) and have run
> > into a small bone of contention. I see via my manual and the plans that
no
> > specific distance is called out for spacing between the seats?
> > My George Orndorf Tapes call for 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 in. between
> > seats. I assume to allow for the the electric flap assembly.
>
> Tom,
>
> I followed George and then had to move my seatbacks inboard 1/2" or so
> -- the critical thing is that the back should miss the reinforcement
> gusset on top of the F605.
>
> I'm building a regular-build, with tip-up canopy and manual flaps, so
> YMMV.
>
> Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware] |
In a message dated 2/28/2000 4:55:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tgesele(at)usa.net writes:
> Ken,
> I recently installed that pitot tube in my -6 and was happy with the
> way it came out. I ran the pitot/static lines per the plans, using snap
> bushings everywhere it penetrated wing ribs. On the rib just inboard
> of the bay where the pitot tube was mounted, I installed two unions
> through the rib and attached the pitot/static lines to them. In the bay
> with the pitot tube, I used two small pieces of aluminum tube to tie
> the pitot tube to the union in the rib. The bend on the short pieces
> of tubing were kinda funky to allow the pitot tube to be installed and
> removed and took a couple of hours to get just right. I plan on using
> unions or elbows on the fuse pentration.
>
> If you opt to try something like this, cleco all the wing skins on
> before final closure and make sure you can install and remove the pitot
> tube - it's easy to get into trouble there. I also painted one line
> and labeled all lines to aid in matching the pitot->pitot/static->static.
>
> Can't help you with the electical, not there yet. All I've done so far
> is install a grounding point on one of the ribs..
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Tom Gesele
> RV-6 #25465 - Finishing up wings
Hi Tom,
Yes, that actually helps quite a bit. What sort of tubing (type & diameter)
did you use for the pitot & static runs through the wings? I'm looking at
using Nylo-Seal tubing and fittings from the Aircraft Spruce catalog.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lights/power supplies |
>
> Be advised that the local (Philadelphia) FAA did not approve a faired
(behind
> the RMD plexi housing) combo position & strobe light because the angle
of light
> it gave out did not meat the FAR's. I think it failed at the rear..i.e.
whatever
> the viewing angle or plane of light that is required for rear viewing was
not
> there...presumably blocked by where the strobe/position light was
> mounted....Wheather all FAA inspecters look this real close is anyone's
> guess...
>
It shouldn't be about whether or not the FAA inspector "catches" it, but
instead should be about whether the guy flying up your tail can see the
strobe/position light combo. If you plan to spend the bucks to have
strobes, why not have them where they can be seen? I suspect the speed
loss is hundredths of a knot.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A with RMD landing lights, but with tip mounted strobes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilted Hinge for 6A S-Cowl |
>
> I still don't see the advantage of the tilted hinge. Why not put the
entire
> hinge line for the longitudinal hinge above the lower cowl edge? Then
the
> upper cowl can be squeezed in to alignment for pin insertion and will
splay
> out upon pin removal. This sure is confusing to me!
> Dennis
If the hinge is up from vertical center in the front, it will make it
difficult to put the pin in without hogging a big slot in the upper cowl.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Back Spacing RV 6 A QB |
Louis : I am building a slider and do to this list and help like yours i am
going with 3 1/2 in. between the seats as this seems to be the best all
around distance do to the clearence problems mentioned. Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Louis Cappucci <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:32 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Seat Back Spacing RV 6 A QB
>
>
> tom,
>
> are you building a tip-up or slider?
>
> you have to be very careful here. yes, you have to leave some room in
> between the seats for the electric flap assembly.
>
> however, you also have to get clearance on the sides from the armrest, but
> more importantly from your canopy roll bar (assuming a tip-up! if you're
> building a slider you'll have to ask someone else if any of the canopy
> components are an issue.) i think in the tapes george is building a
slider.
> anyway, on one of vans drawings, a 4" spacing is called out. well, if you
> use a 4" gap between seats, you are guaranteed to have the
> outboard top corner of the seat frame scratching against the canopy roll
> bar.
>
> here's the math... 42" between the longerons, seats are 16" wide, plus a
4"
> gap leaves you with 6" of clearance, or just 3" per side... (42 - (2*16) -
> 4) / 2 = 3
>
> guess what, the roll bar itself is a little over 3", plus the mounting
> brackets are 1/8" thick. don't forget to leave a little room for paint and
> vibration.
>
> bottom line, i would not drill the hinges for the seat bottoms yet until i
> had installed both the flap assembly and the canopy roll bar. i wish i had
> waited...your hinges will probably end up overlapping onto the flanges of
> the flap side covers.
>
> if you absolutely can't wait (there's no good reason not to wait
though...),
> and you are building a tip-up, then i would use no more than 3.5" between
> the seats, which will give you about 3.25" on the sides.
>
> good luck,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a qb tip-up
> finish kit
>
>
> >
> >List: I am moving right along on my kit ( Just under 2 mo.) and have run
> >into a small bone of contention. I see via my manual and the plans that
no
> >specific distance is called out for spacing between the seats?
> > My George Orndorf Tapes call for 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 in. between
> >seats. I assume to allow for the the electric flap assembly.
> > Allowing for 1/8 in. spacing from my armrests i can only get
a
> >Max. of 3 7/8 in.? What gives,or am i ok?
> > Ready to start skinning fuselage ! It is 70 degrees in Ohio
and
> >i can primer in the driveway.
> >
> > Tom in Ohio (362CT)
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat Back Spacing RV 6 A QB |
Mike : A slider and thanks for the info on Mel's sight ! Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Seat Back Spacing RV 6 A QB
>
> You don't HAVE to leave room in the center for the electric flap assy.
Mel
> Jordon published a modification that moved his electric flap assembly. It
> can be seen here:
> http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/flap_mod.htm
>
> >
> > are you building a tip-up or slider?
> >
> > you have to be very careful here. yes, you have to leave some room in
> > between the seats for the electric flap assembly.
> >
> > >
> > >List: I am moving right along on my kit ( Just under 2 mo.) and have
run
> > >into a small bone of contention. I see via my manual and the plans that
> no
> > >specific distance is called out for spacing between the seats?
> > > My George Orndorf Tapes call for 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 in.
between
> > >seats. I assume to allow for the the electric flap assembly.
> > > Allowing for 1/8 in. spacing from my armrests i can only
get
> a
> > >Max. of 3 7/8 in.? What gives,or am i ok?
> > > Ready to start skinning fuselage ! It is 70 degrees in Ohio
> and
> > >i can primer in the driveway.
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel angle for gyros |
Sigma Tek has an 8 Degree tilted gyro for this reason exactly. If you don't
want to purchase one, a quality rebuild person can modify yours to an 8
degree model.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111" <bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 5:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: instrument panel angle for gyros
201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
> Question:
>
> Has anyone had trouble adjusting the "little airplane" in the attitude
> gyro in their RV-6/6A to compensate for the the 7-8 forward instrument
> panel tilt? I just saw one RV-6A where the owner had to install washers
> between the inst. panel and the bottom mounting screws to be able to
> "level" his instrument. I don't know the gyro make/model but it was an
> older type without the blue-above/brown-below color scheme.
>
> I've been flying my plane without the AI/DI gyros so I don't smoke 'em
> as I practice aerobatics.
>
> Appreciate any comments.
>
> Boyd.
> RV Super 6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware |
Ken, what type tubing are you using, alum. or plastic for your pitot lines?
You should use snap bushings either way (7/16" od x 1/4" id). I used the hard
polyethelene (polyflo?) tubing to keep the weight down a little since I have
the tube with the static source also and the two lines. Gretz recommends a
length of alum tubing between the tube and the plastic lines due to the heat.
I used about 8" or so. We'll see if thats enough. Wicks Aircraft Supply
catalog has a good selection of both alum and plastic fittings to make up the
connection. I used a plastic bulkhead fitting at the root rib for
convenience. Andy Johnson, -8, right (simple) wing
I've obtained an AN5814 heated pitot tube (with static source), along with a
Gretz mount for it and am now wondering how to hook this all together.
What sort of line and fittings do I need to obtain for my pitot and static
lines? Do I need snap bushings or grommets of some sort for the holes in the
ribs, or can I just feed the tubing through? Do I need some sort of bulkhead
fitting for the root rib? What about the electrical connection for the
heating element? Will I need to do any soldering? I've never soldered
anything in my life and am worried that I'll screw up an expensive new pitot
tube.<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Tool Quest II: The Reality Check |
*** My 2 cents below...
Larry Bowen
RV-8 tanks nearly done...
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message----- (some deletions....)
> Drills:
>
> 1) Does anyone have any experience with the Chicago Pneumatic air drill
> sold by Harbor Freight for $68? (2100 RPM, ~ 2lbs.)
*** No. I have the std issue Avery drill. It's ok.
>
> 2) As a practical matter, how important are RPMs for drilling aluminum?
> As in, what kind of differences will be observed between a 500 RPM
> drill (cordless) and a 2500 RPM drill (air).
*** Faster is better, but I do use my Makita on occasion.
>
> Rivet Squeezer:
>
> 3) After reading many archive listings and web pages, I came to the
> conclusion that there are 3 basic yokes: the 3" yoke, the longeron
> yoke, and the no-hole yoke. Yokes are doggone expensive chunks of
> steel. 3a) Are all of the above yokes truly worthwhile? 3b) Would
> it be possible to fabricate my own yokes?
*** I have a 2.5 or 3" and a 4" no-hole, both from Avery. The 4" was
expensive, and took months to get, bit it's been worth it.
> Rivet cutter:
*** I haven't cut a rivet yet.
> Air compressor:
>
*** Do not get the oil-less ones. Too noisy.
*** You forgot to ask about band saws. I bought the $139 Harbor Frieght
metal-cutting band saw, and didn't like it. I replaced it with a Craftsman
variable speed bench-top model; more versatile and worth the extra
investment. If you want the H.F. saw, come and get it for 1/2 what it cost
me.
THE RIGHT TOOLS MAKE A TASK MORE ENJOYABLE AND THE RESULTS OF A HIGHER
QUALITY. AND, THERE IS NOTHING MORE EXPENSIVE THAN SOMETHING CHEAP. Amen.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet Cutters (was Tool Quest II) |
Gary has a good point. You would be surprised at how much simpler it is to
have rivet cutter (even the cheap one). Because of the selection of rivets
that Van's supplies, I have found that I needed to cut dozens of rivets at
one time for a particular task. I found that being able to set a length
that you want, and then cut all the rivets you need to the same size, was
necessary.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
Get paid to surf the Web!
http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=JMP778
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel angle for gyros |
> Question:
>
> Has anyone had trouble adjusting the "little airplane" in the attitude
> gyro in their RV-6/6A to compensate for the the 7-8 forward instrument
> panel tilt? \
Nope, The simple fix is to have the 8 degree tilt shimed internally in the gyro.
I ordered mine
and specified that I needed the tilt. This only needs to be done on the AI and
maybe the T&B.
The DG doesnt seem to mind
Gary Zilik
N99PZ
> I just saw one RV-6A where the owner had to install washers
> between the inst. panel and the bottom mounting screws to be able to
> "level" his instrument. I don't know the gyro make/model but it was an
> older type without the blue-above/brown-below color scheme.
>
> I've been flying my plane without the AI/DI gyros so I don't smoke 'em
> as I practice aerobatics.
>
> Appreciate any comments.
>
> Boyd.
> RV Super 6
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Lane" <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM> |
| Subject: | #6-40 screws for gretz pitot |
Anyone have a source for the #6-40 countersunk screws that attach the AN5812 (P.H.
502-12) heated pitot tube to the Gretz mount? I have not found anyone who
supplies them. Jim
Most #6 screws are 6-32. I know they have to be out there somewhere, but no luck
so far. The rest of you better start looking. Always waiting for some special
part!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Parking brake installation |
Larry Olson
I do not have a picture of my installation but FWIW, I can tell you I riveted
an additional arm at a right angle on to the Matco arm (forming an "L") to
allow the cable to be routed the way I wanted. It works will. If you would
like additional info on the installation please let me know and I can give
more detail.
One other note. I used 90 degree AN fittings to hook up the lines from the
pedals. Turns out the hole spacing on the Matco unit is too close to allow
the second 90 AN fitting to be turned in. Used a 90 elbow-internal/external
pipe thread fitting from EARL's (part #9914) and then a straight pipe thread
to AN adapter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Oil Filter |
I would like to hear more about this..... What brand of filter and what
number. Something is not right here. (Application or plumbing problem) An
automotive filter, even a very poor quality one, should have a burst
pressure of 250 to 300 psi. .
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal (I sell oil and filters)
www.petroblend.com/dougr
dougr(at)petroblend.com
>
> Dont recall seeing it posted here. It was a written up in the most recent
> RVator though.
>
> Mike Wills
> RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
> willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>
> >
> >A couple of weeks ago, there was a posting about an RV accident caused by
an
> >auto oil filter bursting. Evidently this was not archived. If someone
saved
> >that item, would you please repost it or forward it to me off list.
Thanks.
> >
> >John Brick
> >jbrick(at)wolfenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Orr <morr(at)vt.edu> |
| Subject: | Flying/Project RV-3 Wanted |
Hello,
I'm interested in purchasing an RV-3 or project with a lower horsepower
engine.(0-235,0-290, or ???) My goal would be a very simple light airplane
that could be flown economically.
Something in the vicinity of $10,000 would be interesting. I'm not sure
if this is a reasonable range but I'm trying to find out what is out there.
I'd be willing to consider a little wider range of prices and aircraft
depending on the situation.
I've been looking passively for a while but haven't come across anything
interesting (or much at all) in RV-3's.
Aircraft without the latest spar mods would be acceptable if the price
is right. I would fly the aircraft sedately until a -3B wing or appropriate
mods. could be put on. If you have a project on the eastern third of the US
or a flying aircraft just about anywhere for sale let me know, I might be
interested.
I've helped a friend a bit with an RV-8 horizontal and vertical tail so
I have a basic idea of what to expect in a project. (lots of deburring,
measuring, drilling, priming, dimpling, and a little fun riviting and that
it takes longer then you think) A nice kit but a little more then the
budget can handle at the moment.
I was considering a flatwing Pitts for a while but the -3 seems like a
better choice as hangar space is non-existent in my area and protected
aluminum fares better in the elements then fabric.
Advice from Rv-3 gurus would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt Orr
Blacksburg, Virginia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tools - Shear / bending brake? |
I once had access to a metal shop, and I used the shear and
bending brake frequently. That's no longer an option so I'd like to buy
a tool that would be good for making simple sheetmetal parts. One
criteria is selecting a tool that would be useful on an RV project one
day. At Harbor Freight I see several choices from a $370
shear/press break down to a $16 bending break. Any experience
with these tools? Is a shear useful? A bending break? What is
recommended? Thanks,
Bob Newman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender & wiring |
>
> I have two questions, First is everyone using the Vans sending unit
for
> the fuel tanks, or what do you recommend? No inverted flight in this
plane.
> And also what location is recommended for the wiring tube through the
wing?
> I'm about ready to assemble the ribs onto the spar and want to drill the
> holes for the tubing.
>
> Mike Rawls
Mike,
Seven of eight flying RV's at our airport use Van's senders and gauges with
no complaints.
I installed mine per the plans, just aft of the main spar and on the bottom
side of the rib. Since I riveted my bottom skin on last, the tubing tended
to get in the way of bucking rivets. Think about routing your tubing
opposite of the skin you plan to rivet last.
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware |
> Gretz recommends a
> length of alum tubing between the tube and the plastic lines due to the
heat.
> I used about 8" or so. We'll see if thats enough. Wicks Aircraft Supply
> catalog has a good selection of both alum and plastic fittings to make up
the
> connection. I used a plastic bulkhead fitting at the root rib for
> convenience. Andy Johnson, -8, right (simple) wing
Andy,
How to connect the aluminum tubing to the plastic has come many many times.
For the parts-challenged among us would you wouldn't mind posting the exact
part numbers and sources for the archives? Warren has had a million
questions on this, I'm surprised he doesn't post the data also. Perhaps if
you'd be so kind as to make the list he would post it on his web site.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, a wiring and a plumbin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Oil Filter |
It was a plumbing problem. Remote oil filter mount plumbed
backwards. The previously used aviation filters had been OK, as the
bypass in the filter opened, allowing the oil to flow, although it
wasn't being filter. The automotive filter didn't have a bypass, so
the pressure built up and blew the filter. Engine failure, forced
landing, wrecked RV-4, no injuries, expensive lessons learned. There
is a lot more to the story, but this is the gist of it.
Kevin
>
>I would like to hear more about this..... What brand of filter and what
>number. Something is not right here. (Application or plumbing problem) An
>automotive filter, even a very poor quality one, should have a burst
>pressure of 250 to 300 psi. .
>
>Tailwinds
>Doug Rozendaal (I sell oil and filters)
>www.petroblend.com/dougr
>dougr(at)petroblend.com
>
>
>>
>> Dont recall seeing it posted here. It was a written up in the most recent
>> RVator though.
>>
>> Mike Wills
>> RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
>> willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>>
>>
>> >
>> >A couple of weeks ago, there was a posting about an RV accident caused by
>an
>> >auto oil filter bursting. Evidently this was not archived. If someone
>saved
>> >that item, would you please repost it or forward it to me off list.
>Thanks.
>> >
>> >John Brick
>> >jbrick(at)wolfenet.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bmaynard507(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Mixture and Throttle Springs |
I have just installed my control cables to the Mixture and Throttle. I seem
to recall individuals adding springs to each, thus to return them to a fail
safe position if the cable breaks. Where do you obtain these springs? How
big and/or strong should they be? And what is the correct way to install
February 23, 2000 - February 28, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ia