RV-Archive.digest.vol-ib
February 28, 2000 - March 05, 2000
them. Or, do I just forget it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
| Subject: | Engine Start Problem |
Listers,
I have been living with an engine starting problem which has recently
starting to become a nuisance. I have an O-320E3D 160hp which has no
problem starting up from a cold start. Two blades and she fires every time,
even in cool weather (teens). The problem comes only when the engine is
warm, like stopping some place to get fuel. Some times I can only get it to
turn one blade at a time then it acts like I'm out of juice. But if I wait
for at least 30 minutes, which happens at most pit stops, she fires up just
as reliable. I've been using this trick thinking that the compression is
just too high on a warm engine. Now I just have to ask for your opinions.
Some facts: I have a wood prop, Gil G-30 battery (1.5 years old), Light
weight starter from Van's, One-month old annual inspection showed
compression at 75, 76, 77, and 78/80. What else?....
What could it be? Could starter performance degrade due to the heat under
the cowls? All comments/opinions are welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Anh
N985VU
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot hardware |
I ran the standard pitot tubing and purchased the Gretz mount. My heated
pitot is a AN5812 without the static line but it was delivered months after
I closed up the left wing. Upon arrivar of this pitot I discovered that the
tube for the dynamic pressure will not reach through to the top of the mount
and I will need to have an extension adapter extending the tubing to
connect it to the pitot line. My line is AL tubing per plans and I flared
the end with flare nut installed. This means that I will need to put a
flare on an end of a short piece of AL tubing with a flare nut to connect to
the pitot but at the other end where it connects to the pitot line I'm not
sure what sort of fitting I need. The pitot line has a flare and nut on the
end which will need to connect to a male fitting with threads of some sort.
Can anyone (or everyone) tell me what part number fitting I need?
By the way, my pitot tube from Gretz included 4 screws and washers, I assume
are the correct threads 6x40 as someone else asked. Maybe Mr. Gretz can
advise more on how to get these screws if you need them.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)usa.net>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: [RV-List: Pitot hardware]
>
> Ken,
> I recently installed that pitot tube in my -6 and was happy with the
> way it came out. I ran the pitot/static lines per the plans, using snap
> bushings everywhere it penetrated wing ribs. On the rib just inboard
> of the bay where the pitot tube was mounted, I installed two unions
> through the rib and attached the pitot/static lines to them. In the bay
> with the pitot tube, I used two small pieces of aluminum tube to tie
> the pitot tube to the union in the rib. The bend on the short pieces
> of tubing were kinda funky to allow the pitot tube to be installed and
> removed and took a couple of hours to get just right. I plan on using
> unions or elbows on the fuse pentration.
>
> If you opt to try something like this, cleco all the wing skins on
> before final closure and make sure you can install and remove the pitot
> tube - it's easy to get into trouble there. I also painted one line
> and labeled all lines to aid in matching the pitot->pitot/static->static.
>
> Can't help you with the electical, not there yet. All I've done so far
> is install a grounding point on one of the ribs..
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Tom Gesele
> RV-6 #25465 - Finishing up wings
>
> Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I've obtained an AN5814 heated pitot tube (with static source), along with
a
> Gretz mount for it and am now wondering how to hook this all together.
>
> --snip--
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings getting there, fuselage coming in early April
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Oil Filter |
>
>I would like to hear more about this..... What brand of filter and what
>number. Something is not right here. (Application or plumbing problem) An
>automotive filter, even a very poor quality one, should have a burst
>pressure of 250 to 300 psi. .
>
A local flying buddy (who is on this list) also had an automotive filter
burst. The filter was installed on a homemade adapter on a modified C85
engine installed on a Dragonfly. Pressure at the filter is unknown but
pressure at the sender is normal. He has changed to an aircraft filter,
with no other changes, and has had no further problem. The aircraft oil
filter is made of much heavier material.
His filter burst on start-up on a moderately cool morning; maybe 35 or 40
degrees F. He found out about it shortly after takeoff when the oil
pressure went to zero. He made a safe landing but had to rebuild the
damaged engine.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MICROSOFT FLIGHT SIMULATOR RV FIXES |
Hey fellow Rver's,
I got Microsoft Flight Simulator 2000 Professional Edition for Christmas.
I used to have MFS 98. MSFS2000 allows you to modify the aircraft with a
program that comes with the software instead of buying it. Its called
aircraft editor. I got all the RV's on it (RV4, RV6, RV6a*,RV8)(Too bad not a
RV3 yet) and the RV4 ran perfect with its 160HP. The RV6 with a 160HP engine
ran good to about 130kts then started wobbling. The RV6a with its 160HP
engine did the same. The RV8 with a whooping 200HP engine and cruises at
about 210kts and tops out around 225kts.
So I left the RV4 alone. The RV6, RV6a, RV8 I did some modifications to. Now
they both have an IO-360 180HP(Except RV8). I somehow got the wobbling to
stop by modifying some stuff and now they cruise nice and they both do great
aerobatics'. There is an Extra 300 on this game too and I must say the RV6,
RV6a run right along with it except the climb rate. The RV6, RV6a climb at
about 1700-2000fpm. Also along with that I was sick of those old Cessna 182
panel's so I found a PIC of the net and made my own panel"s". I made one for
the RV6a and the RV8. Both seem to be running smooth. I hope to take pic's at
our next Young eagles to make them Phone Realistic.Anyways if you want these
e-mail me and ill be glad to send them. Here are the specs on these aircraft.
RV4 RV6a
O-320 160 HP IO-360 180HP
Max speed 160kts (182mph) Max speed 185kts (211mph)
Cruise speed 140kts (160mph) Cruise speed 175kts(200mph)
RV8
IO-360 200HP
Max Speed 230kts(262mph)
Cruise speed 215kts(245mph)
Have panel's for RV6a, RV8. The others share for now but I hope to make them
one if anyone working on them has pic's of thier panels that would help
alot.I didn't make these RV's I just modified them and made the panel"s"
Justin
RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MICROSOFT FLIGHT SIMULATOR RV FIXES |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MICROSOFT FLIGHT SIMULATOR RV FIXES |
i would like the rv8 one since that will be close to my f1 rocket
thanks
chris wilcox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Listers,
Recent posts by both Brian Denk and Bill Pagan have indicated that the
standard Van's 9" heat muff is only good down to about 35 degrees. All the
tricks with ss pads or spings don't seem to help at that point.
What have you already-flying folks done to stay warm?
Does the Robbins heat muff put out more heat in the same space?
Wanting to be toasty up there...
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, plumbing and wiring
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)gci.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Start Problem |
Check for a high ground resistance. Problems like that usually turn up a
bad ground.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 7:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Start Problem
Listers,
I have been living with an engine starting problem which has recently
starting to become a nuisance. I have an O-320E3D 160hp which has no
problem starting up from a cold start. Two blades and she fires every time,
even in cool weather (teens). The problem comes only when the engine is
warm, like stopping some place to get fuel. Some times I can only get it to
turn one blade at a time then it acts like I'm out of juice. But if I wait
for at least 30 minutes, which happens at most pit stops, she fires up just
as reliable. I've been using this trick thinking that the compression is
just too high on a warm engine. Now I just have to ask for your opinions.
Some facts: I have a wood prop, Gil G-30 battery (1.5 years old), Light
weight starter from Van's, One-month old annual inspection showed
compression at 75, 76, 77, and 78/80. What else?....
What could it be? Could starter performance degrade due to the heat under
the cowls? All comments/opinions are welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Anh
N985VU
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | lightspeed headsets |
I bought a Lightspeed headset last year. The people at Lightspeed have
been quite accommodating in helping me find the model that suits my plane.
They have exchanged headsets which I've been using for several months with
no questions other than what would work best. If only all the avionics
manufacturers would follow suit.("ya, but it sat on my shelf for 6 months")
Lightspeed also donated a set of 20K's which was given as an attendance
prize at the Scappoose Fly-in '99. I think this type of personal service
is disappearing in a climate of mega-mergers and wanted to let others know.
Kevin -6A 550+hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | fuel drain valves |
Should fuel lube be used on the threads of the fuel tank drain valves to
help seal that connection, or are they left bare?
Looking in the Aircraft Spruce catalog, there is a product called seal lube
shown right above the fuel lube. It is a little cheaper and the description
sounds like it would work well on these threads. Anybody used this stuff,
and does it work?
Thanks for any input,
Chris Hand
RV-6A, ready to seal tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy aileron, rigging , heavy wing |
Question why are we squeezing the aileron? why don,t
you just turn your turnbuckle and bring the heavy wing
up? Why mess with a oretty aileron or let me guess I,m
missing something, right? or are we just lazy? cause
it is work to get to the misrigged turnbuckle? sure
would like to know
Glenn Williams
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I fixed my heavy wing problem by using the old
> tried and true squeezing of
> > the light aileron. I tweaked it very lightly over
> several sessions until
> > it was right. The plane now flys hands and feet
> off.
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
Folks
I fly with temp a lot below 35 and heat is NOT an issue. If there is any
sun at all cooling will be more of a concern.
I use the shorter of the 2 heat muffs (6" I think) on my RV6A. I have light
insulation on the cockpit walls. Most of the time I just crack the heat
valve open to keep my feet warm. The rest of me is just fine!
regards
allen
Allen Duberstein
allen.duberstein(at)intel.com
Phone: 412-831-7302
Fax: 412-831-5742
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Lervold [mailto:randyl(at)pacifier.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 1:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Heat muffs
Listers,
Recent posts by both Brian Denk and Bill Pagan have indicated that the
standard Van's 9" heat muff is only good down to about 35 degrees. All the
tricks with ss pads or spings don't seem to help at that point.
What have you already-flying folks done to stay warm?
Does the Robbins heat muff put out more heat in the same space?
Wanting to be toasty up there...
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, plumbing and wiring
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy aileron, rigging , heavy wing |
>
>Question why are we squeezing the aileron? why don,t
>you just turn your turnbuckle and bring the heavy wing
>up? Why mess with a oretty aileron or let me guess I,m
>missing something, right? or are we just lazy? cause
>it is work to get to the misrigged turnbuckle? sure
>would like to know
>Glenn Williams
>
Glenn,
Changing the aileron pushrod lengths would change neutral stick position and
how the ailerons line up with the wing tips and would also affect
differential action but would not help the heavy wing problem. That is an
aerodynamic problem and squeezing the aileron changes the aerodynamics of it
such that it helps that problem. It works very well.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Oil Filter |
>
> A local flying buddy (who is on this list) also had an automotive filter
> burst. The filter was installed on a homemade adapter on a modified C85
> engine installed on a Dragonfly. Pressure at the filter is unknown but
> pressure at the sender is normal. He has changed to an aircraft filter,
> with no other changes, and has had no further problem. The aircraft oil
> filter is made of much heavier material.
>
> His filter burst on start-up on a moderately cool morning; maybe 35 or 40
> degrees F. He found out about it shortly after takeoff when the oil
> pressure went to zero. He made a safe landing but had to rebuild the
> damaged engine.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
Larry,
This too sounds like an application problem. Spin on oil filters may or may
not have internal bypass valves. Some engines have the bypass in the filter
base and some depend on internal bypass valves in the filter. Aircraft oil
pumps are positive displacement. They can generate astronomical pressures.
At 30 degrees, SAE 50 oil will not pass through a filter. Typically filters
rupture the gasket. If the gasket holds the can may rupture. If the filter
had a stronger can it would strip the threads out of the base plate and fire
the filter through the cowling.
Many aftermarket filter bases are by-pass types. If you put a bypass filter
in a full flow application and put too much cold oil through it will blow a
gasket.
If you install a aftermarket base, make sure the filter you use has the
internal features you need for a functional installation. Just because it
screws on does not mean it fits. There are full flow and by-pass filters,
hi and low pressure by-pass valves, or no by-pass valve at all.
anti-drainback valves, stand-pipes, single and two stage filters. Not to
mention all the different medias, (papers) hydraulic, fuel, bypass. full
flow, dual flow.
The point of all this is the only thing special about aircraft oil filters
is the safety wire nut, and the price. Numerous automotive filters will
work very well on experimental aircraft "IF" the application and
installation is correct. Big IF. If you don't know which auto filter to
use, use an aircraft filter.
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
www.petroblend.com/dougr
dougr(at)petroblend.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Start Problem |
I had the same problem with my NON fuel injected Comanche.
After replacing everything (SkyTek starter, cables, battery)
and it still did it I adopted the fuel injected, hot start method.
Fuel firewalled and mixture full lean. As soon as it starts, switch
fuel and mixture. Takes some coordination, but you'll get it.
Worked for me...
Larry Olson
>
>Listers,
>I have been living with an engine starting problem which has recently
>starting to become a nuisance. I have an O-320E3D 160hp which has no
>problem starting up from a cold start. Two blades and she fires every time,
>even in cool weather (teens). The problem comes only when the engine is
>warm, like stopping some place to get fuel. Some times I can only get it to
>turn one blade at a time then it acts like I'm out of juice. But if I wait
>for at least 30 minutes, which happens at most pit stops, she fires up just
>as reliable. I've been using this trick thinking that the compression is
>just too high on a warm engine. Now I just have to ask for your opinions.
>
>Some facts: I have a wood prop, Gil G-30 battery (1.5 years old), Light
>weight starter from Van's, One-month old annual inspection showed
>compression at 75, 76, 77, and 78/80. What else?....
>
>What could it be? Could starter performance degrade due to the heat under
>the cowls? All comments/opinions are welcome.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Anh
>N985VU
>Maryland
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lights/power supplies |
You missed my point. I installed my strobes in the conventional location..Not
inside the RMD's. Many folks here in PA, NY & NJ area mount their strobes
interior to a housing that limits the visibility of the strobe/position light.
Many FAA inspections miss this. Nontheless it is a safety issue.
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net on 02/28/2000 07:39:00 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: lights/power supplies
>
> Be advised that the local (Philadelphia) FAA did not approve a faired
(behind
> the RMD plexi housing) combo position & strobe light because the angle
of light
> it gave out did not meat the FAR's. I think it failed at the rear..i.e.
whatever
> the viewing angle or plane of light that is required for rear viewing was
not
> there...presumably blocked by where the strobe/position light was
> mounted....Wheather all FAA inspecters look this real close is anyone's
> guess...
>
It shouldn't be about whether or not the FAA inspector "catches" it, but
instead should be about whether the guy flying up your tail can see the
strobe/position light combo. If you plan to spend the bucks to have
strobes, why not have them where they can be seen? I suspect the speed
loss is hundredths of a knot.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A with RMD landing lights, but with tip mounted strobes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel drain valves |
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I use it on my drain valves and it works great. An ideal application, since
I remove them annually to flush out any residue in the tank and to drain the
tank when required.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
----------
>From: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: fuel drain valves
>Date: Tue, Feb 29, 2000, 0:30
>
>
>Should fuel lube be used on the threads of the fuel tank drain valves to
>help seal that connection, or are they left bare?
>
>Looking in the Aircraft Spruce catalog, there is a product called seal lube
>shown right above the fuel lube. It is a little cheaper and the description
>sounds like it would work well on these threads. Anybody used this stuff,
>and does it work?
>
>Thanks for any input,
>Chris Hand
>RV-6A, ready to seal tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: #6-40 screws for gretz pitot |
I re-tapped the hole. I can't recall what size because the taps are mighty small
and the size stamp is even smaller !!!. 5 minutes routing thru the tap/die box
&
some small screws & a piece of scrap metal to test ( screw & thread ) did the
trick. Actually, the tap put out very little metal & the standard screw I found
ran in .......
jlane(at)crosscountybank.com on 02/28/2000 08:31:34 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: #6-40 screws for gretz pitot
Anyone have a source for the #6-40 countersunk screws that attach the AN5812
(P.H. 502-12) heated pitot tube to the Gretz mount? I have not found anyone who
supplies them. Jim
Most #6 screws are 6-32. I know they have to be out there somewhere, but no luck
so far. The rest of you better start looking. Always waiting for some special
part!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware |
In a message dated 2/28/2000 8:21:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com writes:
> Ken, what type tubing are you using, alum. or plastic for your pitot lines?
> You should use snap bushings either way (7/16" od x 1/4" id). I used the
> hard
> polyethelene (polyflo?) tubing to keep the weight down a little since I
have
>
> the tube with the static source also and the two lines. Gretz recommends a
> length of alum tubing between the tube and the plastic lines due to the
heat.
>
> I used about 8" or so. We'll see if thats enough. Wicks Aircraft Supply
> catalog has a good selection of both alum and plastic fittings to make up
> the
> connection. I used a plastic bulkhead fitting at the root rib for
> convenience. Andy Johnson, -8, right (simple) wing
>
Hi Andy,
I'm planning on using plastic tubing (Nylo-Seal) for the pitot and static
lines. The part that is confusing me is how to fabricate and install the
aluminum tube extensions between the pitot tube stubs and the bulkhead
fittings in the first rib inboard of the pitot tube. If I use aluminum for
those extensions (due to the proximity of the heating element), how do I
provide for enough 'slack' to be able to install and remove the pitot tube
from the completed wing? Isn't the aluminum tubing too rigid to allow the
pitot tube to be drawn down from its mount enough to detach it?
Also, I'm having difficulty visualizing the exact parts that I need to order.
I've never done this sort of thing before and all the fittings in the
catalog look the same to me. :-) Not really, but I'm still having trouble
identifying the correct ones. What I'd like to do is have a pair of bulkhead
fittings (one pitot & one static) in the first rib inboard of the pitot tube,
followed by simple snap bushings in the remaining interior ribs, followed by
another pair of bulkhead fittings in the root rib. I figure that'll make it
simple to eventually connect the tubing to the panel. Am I missing anything
here (obvious or otherwise)?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 rudder cable question |
Since there seems to be a flurry of RV-4 questions lately, I have one. Do
the rudder cables go through F-404 or around it? Mine just barely rub the
edges of F-404. Do I need to cut some of the sides of F-404 away? I cut
the holes for the rudder cable bushing in F-402 per plans but it looked like
if I had moved them inboard slightly that the cables would have cleared
F-404 altogether. Any suggestions?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>Listers,
>
>Recent posts by both Brian Denk and Bill Pagan have indicated that the
>standard Van's 9" heat muff is only good down to about 35 degrees. All the
>tricks with ss pads or spings don't seem to help at that point.
>
>What have you already-flying folks done to stay warm?
>
>Does the Robbins heat muff put out more heat in the same space?
>
>Wanting to be toasty up there...
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500, plumbing and wiring
>www.pacifier.com/~randyl
>Home Wing VAF
>
Randy,
I think my Van's heat muff is basically OK, but I'm just not getting enough
airflow through it. I do get some definite heat from it, but it takes a few
minutes for it to significantly change the cabin temperature. I don't notice
it until maybe two minutes after pulling the heat selector open, and it
takes longer to get the heat back behind me to the rear seat. After five
minutes of being full open, it actually does get too warm, at least for me.
If the sun is out, the solar heating through the canopy does help a lot,
even if the air temp is below freezing. I have a small LCD clock with
temperature readout mounted down next to my fuel selector handle. I looked
at it last weekend while at 10,000' and it showed about 35 degrees, but I
felt quite comfortable with my leather jacket on and the heat off. The sun
was shining bright and that made all the difference in the world. Under an
overcast with the same air temp, it would be much cooler inside.
A local RV4 pilot who I took my first RV ride with has a killer cabin
heater. When he pulled it open, I felt this rush of hot air...like a wall of
heat coming out of an opened oven door! I gotta get in touch with him and
find out how he did it. I suspect he has a much more direct ram air intake
to the muff than I do. I don't have any more room on my rear engine baffle
for the 2" flange/scat hose, so I might have to install a NACA inlet in the
side of the cowl or somewhere else with similar high velocity airflow. The
air would likely not be as hot, but it would get to the back seat sooner.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)gci.net> |
| Subject: | fuel drain valves |
I would use the fuel lube. I really like that stuff.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)corecom.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris & Kellie
Hand
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel drain valves
Should fuel lube be used on the threads of the fuel tank drain valves to
help seal that connection, or are they left bare?
Looking in the Aircraft Spruce catalog, there is a product called seal lube
shown right above the fuel lube. It is a little cheaper and the description
sounds like it would work well on these threads. Anybody used this stuff,
and does it work?
Thanks for any input,
Chris Hand
RV-6A, ready to seal tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy aileron, rigging , heavy wing |
>Question why are we squeezing the aileron? why don,t
>you just turn your turnbuckle and bring the heavy wing
>up? Why mess with a oretty aileron or let me guess I,m
>missing something, right? or are we just lazy? cause
>it is work to get to the misrigged turnbuckle? sure
>would like to know
>Glenn Williams
>
Glenn,
I initially tried to adjust the pushrod lengths to change the neutral
position of the ailerons. It didn't change anything, just made the stick
ride about an inch to the left in neutral flight. The aerodynamic pressures
on the ailerons, which are NOT identical no matter how well you think you
build them, make them find a path of least resistance and ride in a certain
position behind the wing. I reset the pushrod lengths so both are
symmetrical and flush with the flaps and wing tips, AND the stick is
centered. By squeezing the aileron trailing edge on the light wing, this
makes the entire aileron system ride in a different position in flight. The
stick is now centered in flight, on the ground, and the trim is centered
when the tanks have equal fuel in them.
It's quite a balancing act to get the whole system looking and flying right
with stick and trim in the center. I didn't like squeezing that thin
aileron skin, but it made a world of difference. But, it validated my
reasoning behind not painting the plane before flying it. I would be more
uncomfortable squeezing that aileron after it was painted.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Possibly Casa Grande Fly-in bound on Friday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture and Throttle Springs |
Bmaynard507(at)cs.com wrote:
>
>
> I have just installed my control cables to the Mixture and Throttle. I seem
> to recall individuals adding springs to each, thus to return them to a fail
> safe position if the cable breaks. Where do you obtain these springs? How
> big and/or strong should they be? And what is the correct way to install
> them. Or, do I just forget it.
I elected to install a return spring for the mixture since I used the
solid core cable. The spring was procured in the aviation department of
a local auto parts store and was installed per the following link
(scroll down for photo):
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/engine4.html
This is not necessarily the "correct" way to handle this issue, just
this builder's method. The spring only needs to be strong enough to
return the mixture control to full rich. The carb should already have an
internal spring for the throttle which returns the butterfly to wide
open.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 107 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | MICROSOFT FLIGHT SIMULATOR RV FIXES |
Justin,
I'd love the RV-8 info. I just got FS 2000 pro and this will give me
the excuse I need to sit and play!
Thanks,
Bob
RV-8A Control Surfaces
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RV6aJMW(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: MICROSOFT FLIGHT SIMULATOR RV FIXES
Hey fellow Rver's,
I got Microsoft Flight Simulator 2000 Professional Edition for
Christmas.
I used to have MFS 98. MSFS2000 allows you to modify the aircraft with a
program that comes with the software instead of buying it. Its called
aircraft editor. I got all the RV's on it (RV4, RV6, RV6a*,RV8)(Too bad
not a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel drain valves |
Chris, I did. This was worked on the fuel drain valves, no leaks. I've
had problems with other pipe thread fittings leaking because they need to be
very tight to seal. Usually the 90 deg. fittings don't point where you want
when they get tight. I found out just being snug with seal lube is not good
enough. I now have only one fitting weeping. It is the 1/8" NPT fitting
for the oil pressure. Tighter than hell & still weeps oil. Guess the
threads are not right & have to buy new fittings. Also have a fuel weep
from the gasket on the float bowl of my new carb. I don't know what to use
to seal it. Why does new stuff not work like it should?
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 23.0 hrs.
Melbourne, FL
>From: "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: fuel drain valves
>Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 23:30:33 -0800
>
>
>Should fuel lube be used on the threads of the fuel tank drain valves to
>help seal that connection, or are they left bare?
>
>Looking in the Aircraft Spruce catalog, there is a product called seal lube
>shown right above the fuel lube. It is a little cheaper and the
>description
>sounds like it would work well on these threads. Anybody used this stuff,
>and does it work?
>
>Thanks for any input,
>Chris Hand
>RV-6A, ready to seal tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 rudder cable question |
Scott:
You want to thread the rudder cables through the bulkheads to get them out of the
way. Otherwise you would be getting caught up in them. They would go from the
rudder pedals straight back to the exit point in the tail if you didn't need to
sit in the fuselage. They do rub the plastic inserts and the feel is one of cable
agianst plastic. It would be much more refined to have a pulley setting up the
alignment through the bulkheads so no rubbing occurs but that would ad weight and
complexity. The cable travel is so small and the friction is not really a
factor. Drill the holes in the 404 bulkhead and run the cable through and it will
work.
Dave Aronson
N504RV
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> Since there seems to be a flurry of RV-4 questions lately, I have one. Do
> the rudder cables go through F-404 or around it? Mine just barely rub the
> edges of F-404. Do I need to cut some of the sides of F-404 away? I cut
> the holes for the rudder cable bushing in F-402 per plans but it looked like
> if I had moved them inboard slightly that the cables would have cleared
> F-404 altogether. Any suggestions?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lights/power supplies |
I may have missed your point also, but if you install the strobes inside the
RMD tips (like I plan on doing), it goes without saying that you'll also
need the rudder or VS strobe/light installed.
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 08:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: lights/power supplies
>
>
> You missed my point. I installed my strobes in the conventional
location..Not
> inside the RMD's. Many folks here in PA, NY & NJ area mount their strobes
> interior to a housing that limits the visibility of the strobe/position
light.
> Many FAA inspections miss this. Nontheless it is a safety issue.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>What have you already-flying folks done to stay warm?
>
>Does the Robbins heat muff put out more heat in the same space?
Randy: I have the Robbins single muff (muff?) placed on the down pipes from
the right side of the engine. My air source is a 2" flange on the baffle,
2"scatt to the muff (muff?), then a 2" scat to the square Van's heat box.
It comes through the firewall above my right knee (just above the rudder
well). It puts out HEAT!! I can rarely have it on full. No springs or steel
wool in the muff (?). My cockpit is pretty well sealed, which helps, and I
have a 2" hole in the upper bulkhead of the baggage compartment for air to
ESCAPE. If air coming in has no where to go, it won't come in as fast. I
usually don't wear a winter jacket unless it is really cold/cloudy. My back
seaters have never complained about the cold. Also, I almost never close my
fresh air vents all the way, even in the winter. They are two eyeball vents
on the panel.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Toasty in the Rockies
(Muff?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Electric trim for RV-4? |
I'm ordering tomorrow.... (hehe). Anyone have any reason not to use
electric trim?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HinkleyC(at)fca.gov |
Hi All,
I have a friend that recently moved from the East Coast to Camarillo, CA.
He was a member of our flying club in FDK, MD and was very interested in my
RV8 project. A job change required him to move before I could finish my
RV8, (I'm about 6 weeks away from final inspection) and give him a ride.
So I was wondering if any of you on the RV-List are based at Camarillo or
near there and would be willing to offer him a ride in you RV sometime.
With any luck maybe you could infect him with the RV building bug.
If you can help out please email me off list so I can introduce you via
email. I can be reached at the following email address:
Hinkleyc(at)fca.gov
N815RV(at)aol.com
Thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Hi Chris,
I did, no problem at all. It took me four hours. I modidfied the pedals itself
with a rubber surface. The rest remained the same. Plans and parts are good, as
usual. Until today the aeroplane is not yet airborne, so we can't give any
comment regarding handling in flight.
Sincerely
Chris Santschi schrieb:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Chris Santschi"
>
> Builders:
>
> Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
>
> Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time.
> Festus,MO.
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture and Throttle Springs |
Just curious,,
what material did you elect to use for the spring bracket? 4130??
Nice photos BTW,
Thanks,
Derrick Aubuchon
(RV-4 N184DA,, Finally complete!! Signed off last week,,,, now I am
just waiting for a checkout with Mike Seager.)
>
>I elected to install a return spring for the mixture since I used the
>solid core cable. The spring was procured in the aviation department of
>a local auto parts store and was installed per the following link
>(scroll down for photo):
>
>http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/engine4.html
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
Hi,
I'm be going to Florida on holidays between may 22nd and june 5th.
Are there any builders around the Sarasota area who would like to meet?
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Probynne" <robynne(at)harare.iafrica.com> |
| Subject: | Re: #6-40 screws for gretz pitot |
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Lane <jlane(at)CROSSCOUNTYBANK.COM>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 5:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: #6-40 screws for gretz pitot
>
> Anyone have a source for the #6-40 countersunk screws that attach the
AN5812 (P.H. 502-12) heated pitot tube to the Gretz mount? I have not found
anyone who supplies them. Jim
>
> Most #6 screws are 6-32. I know they have to be out there somewhere, but
no luck so far. The rest of you better start looking. Always waiting for
some special part!
>
> Check with gunsmith suppliers BROWNELLS ph 515-623-5401
Jan Rijkers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
Chris--
I might as well give you the other side of the coin...
I ordered the rear seat rudder pedals and have decided not to install them. I
think they look kinda hokey, and my wife has long legs (whew! I almost said "big
feet"!) and wants to stretch them. I have an obligation to keep my rear passenger
happy. It's in my best interest, or so she reminds me.
Besides, I decided to make the right midcabin brace area into a storage space,
and
the pedals would get in the way. The installation looks to be straightforward,
however.
That should help confuse you.
--Don
N8RV
> Chris Santschi schrieb:
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Chris Santschi"
> >
> > Builders:
> >
> > Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> > installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture and Throttle Springs |
"Derrick L. Aubuchon" wrote:
>
>
> Just curious,,
>
> what material did you elect to use for the spring bracket? 4130??
>
> Nice photos BTW,
>
> Thanks,
> Derrick Aubuchon
> (RV-4 N184DA,, Finally complete!! Signed off last week,,,, now I am
> just waiting for a checkout with Mike Seager.)
Seems like it was 4130........I think.......
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Lead Times |
>
> Just a heads up . . . I just ordered a Navaid for my 8A . . . the lead
time
> is 16 weeks. So . . . if you are planning on installing one of these
nifty
> things, I'd think about getting your order placed, now that mine has been
> turned in ;-)
>
However, they will send you the servo for your installation right away,
which means you can put the thing in, and just do the panel installation
later.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMarkert(at)vul.com (Michael Markert) |
| Subject: | AOA probe / pitot tube installation |
I am finishing up my -6A wings. I intend on installing an AOA gauge (probably
LRI) in final assembly. What provisions such as extra tubing and fittings
should be made in advance? Do most people put the pitot tube and LRI probe on
the same wing?
Mike Markert
Fuselage on order
BTR, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 rudder cable question |
I cut a hole and put a plastic grommet in mine.
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> Since there seems to be a flurry of RV-4 questions lately, I have one. Do
> the rudder cables go through F-404 or around it? Mine just barely rub the
> edges of F-404. Do I need to cut some of the sides of F-404 away? I cut
> the holes for the rudder cable bushing in F-402 per plans but it looked like
> if I had moved them inboard slightly that the cables would have cleared
> F-404 altogether. Any suggestions?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Lead Times |
I ordered my NavAid a day or so before Christmas, and received it last
Wednesday. Just finished installing it today, and weather permitting, will
make the first flight with it tomorrow. Everything came in good shape, and
was exactly as advertised. All stuff needed was there.
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel drain valves |
In a message dated 2/28/00 11:56:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ckhand(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< There is a product called seal lube
shown right above the fuel lube. It is a little cheaper and the description
sounds like it would work well on these threads. Anybody used this stuff,
and does it work? >>
Yes and yes.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Auto Oil Filter |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>>
>> A local flying buddy (who is on this list) also had an automotive filter
>> burst. The filter was installed on a homemade adapter on a modified C85
>> engine installed on a Dragonfly. Pressure at the filter is unknown but
>> pressure at the sender is normal. He has changed to an aircraft filter,
>> with no other changes, and has had no further problem. The aircraft oil
>> filter is made of much heavier material.
>>
>> His filter burst on start-up on a moderately cool morning; maybe 35 or 40
>> degrees F. He found out about it shortly after takeoff when the oil
>> pressure went to zero. He made a safe landing but had to rebuild the
>> damaged engine.
>>
>> Larry Pardue
>> Carlsbad, NM
>
>Larry,
>
>This too sounds like an application problem. Spin on oil filters may or may
>not have internal bypass valves. Some engines have the bypass in the filter
>base and some depend on internal bypass valves in the filter. Aircraft oil
>pumps are positive displacement. They can generate astronomical pressures.
Doug, in this case it may be a combination. I called the fellow in
question to be sure, and this is what I found out. Originally he was
using an AC Delco PH8 which does have an internal bypass, but the problem
is he suspects his non-factory plumbing subjects the oil filter, and oil
cooler to very high pressures even though maximum pressure at the sender
is about 65 psi. The gasket had blown out twice previous to the filter
itself blowing out.
He is still running the same plumbing, but has put a cold temperature
bypass valve on the oil cooler and is using a Champion CH48108, which a
Champion engineer told him has been tested to 400 psi. The filter is of
much heavier construction than the particular automotive filter he was
using. FWIW an AC Delco representative told him the only purpose of the
bypass valve in the AC filter he was using was to bypass in case of a
clogged filter.
>At 30 degrees, SAE 50 oil will not pass through a filter. Typically filters
>rupture the gasket. If the gasket holds the can may rupture. If the filter
>had a stronger can it would strip the threads out of the base plate and fire
>the filter through the cowling.
>
>Many aftermarket filter bases are by-pass types. If you put a bypass filter
>in a full flow application and put too much cold oil through it will blow a
>gasket.
>
>If you install a aftermarket base, make sure the filter you use has the
>internal features you need for a functional installation. Just because it
>screws on does not mean it fits. There are full flow and by-pass filters,
>hi and low pressure by-pass valves, or no by-pass valve at all.
>anti-drainback valves, stand-pipes, single and two stage filters. Not to
>mention all the different medias, (papers) hydraulic, fuel, bypass. full
>flow, dual flow.
>
>The point of all this is the only thing special about aircraft oil filters
>is the safety wire nut, and the price. Numerous automotive filters will
>work very well on experimental aircraft "IF" the application and
>installation is correct. Big IF. If you don't know which auto filter to
>use, use an aircraft filter.
My buddy wanted to emphasize that he does not disagree that there may be
a suitable automotive filter out there, but, in his case, he was able to
get facts on the aircraft filter that made him change to that. He is
still not real satisfied with his installation, and he watches it
carefully.
Myself, I use the aircraft filter recommended for my O-360.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oh I like the responces |
Thanx for trying my stuff and ill be sending them now. The panel only
works with FS2000. Remember that! GIOt to get sending
Justin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Oil Filter |
>
>Doug, in this case it may be a combination. I called the fellow in
>question to be sure, and this is what I found out. Originally he was
>using an AC Delco PH8 which does have an internal bypass, but the problem
>is he suspects his non-factory plumbing subjects the oil filter, and oil
>cooler to very high pressures even though maximum pressure at the sender
>is about 65 psi. The gasket had blown out twice previous to the filter
>itself blowing out.
>
>He is still running the same plumbing, but has put a cold temperature
>bypass valve on the oil cooler and is using a Champion CH48108, which a
>Champion engineer told him has been tested to 400 psi. The filter is of
>much heavier construction than the particular automotive filter he was
>using. FWIW an AC Delco representative told him the only purpose of the
>bypass valve in the AC filter he was using was to bypass in case of a
>clogged filter.
>
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP
Larry,
I think the PH8 is a Fram part number. I used to run remote filters on my
last hot rod and the filter mount took the PH8. Fram has a high performance
filter, the HP1 that is used by many racers and is interchangeable with the
PH8. I think the HP1 is good to 200 psi. If your friend is seeing that kind
of oil pressure something is probably wrong.
The HP1 is available from most auto parts stores and from Summit Racing
(price via their web site is $8.95).
Mike Wills
RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Start Problem |
Ignition timing. Do you have dual mags' ? Does one have an "impulse
coupling" ? Is the impulse coupling working ? Is the engine starting ONLY on
the mag' with the impulse coupling ? Ignition/Starter switch should have a
jumper, built in or otherwise, to short out the straight mag for starting.
J
D Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 11:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Start Problem
>
> Listers,
> I have been living with an engine starting problem which has recently
> starting to become a nuisance.........................................
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Anh
> N985VU
> Maryland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutters (was Tool Quest II) |
Only used mine maybe 3 or 4 times.
Made my own from an old pair of AMP connector crimpers, the cheap kind
which also cuts threaded rod and screws.
Drilled some extra holes (#40 and #30), works great and cuts a nice
perpendicular surface. The only drawback is that you have to pre-measure
the lenght as there is no gauge on it (yet).
Gert
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> Gary has a good point. You would be surprised at how much simpler it is to
> have rivet cutter (even the cheap one). Because of the selection of rivets
> that Van's supplies, I have found that I needed to cut dozens of rivets at
> one time for a particular task. I found that being able to set a length
> that you want, and then cut all the rivets you need to the same size, was
> necessary.
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA probe / pitot tube installation |
> I am finishing up my -6A wings. I intend on installing an AOA gauge
> (probably LRI) in final assembly. What provisions such as extra tubing
> and fittings should be made in advance? Do most people put the pitot
> tube and LRI probe on the same wing?
Back in October several questions about the operation and
performance of the LRI surfaced. Specifically:
- Are the LRI indications accurate and consistent at G loadings
significantly greater than 1 G? (analysis of LRI's mathematics
indicated the unit errs on the dangerous side at higher g loadings)
- As you get farther away from critical AoA, how does the calibration
of the LRI hold up?
Mr Huntington, the owner of LRI, indicated he would supply answers.
As far as I know, he has not. He has acknowledged that the LRI is
not an AoA gauge.
Let me suggest a couple of alternatives: A simple stall warning
tab/switch can be constructed and mounted on the leading edge of
the wing for under $50 (see photos and drawings on my web page).
Alternatively, the last RVator described a real AoA that is flying on
Van's RV-6A.
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender & wiring |
Had a funny problem with mine. They would not ground reliably.
Found this luckily during testing. somehow the sealant left enough of a
film to isolate the sender body from the tank body. there was also a
thin enough film under the rivetheads to isolate the nutplates !!
Drilled & threaded a small hole in the sender body for a bonding strap.
all is well now.
Gert
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hanger Break-in's |
Last night, my hanger was broken into, as were about 25 others at my field.
The good news is that neither my wings (finished and painted), or the
airplane which is occupying my hanger were damaged, nor was anything stolen
from my hanger. Unfortunately, several others were not so lucky. A similar
break-in spree happened at another local field two nights ago.
The thieves used a crowbar and broke the locks off of the hanger doors. In
some cases, they ripped the hasp out of the hangar door, in some cases, the
lock broke.
No aircraft were badly damaged, but some doors were pried open, and one flap
was crunched. Primarily, the sorry &$!!&rds were looking for high dollar
headsets, portable GPS units, etc. For the most part, tools, even expensive
ones, were left alone.
Getting to the point...
1) Anyone got suggestions to better secure a hanger? I can't think of
anything. This is at a field with little night activity, no security, and no
fence.
2) Don't leave expensive, portable stuff in your airplane/hanger.
3) Lock your hanger, don't lock your airplane. It is cheaper (and far
easier) to replace a headset, radio, or other off-the-shelf item than it is
to replace said item(s) AND your canopy or a fuselage skin. If someone can
break in to your hanger, they can get through that .032 aluminum or 3/16" of
plexi.
4) You should be able to find some good deals on slightly used flight gear at
SNF...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
I have now experienced the nuisance fuse blowing that promted 'Lectric Bob
to change his schematic to show a fusible link from the main bus to master
switch instead of the 15A fuse. Well, I built mine to the older version &
used a fuse. Yesterday at sunset, I was yanking & banking around the
practice area when the low voltage lights started flashing. I had nav,
strobe & both wingtip landing lights (50W halogen) burning. I turned off
the lights & headed in. Checked everything over & found the alt pulley
about chewed through the cowl and a blown alt. field fuse. Replaced the
fuse & repeated the flying & el. load after work. All is well, so far. Can
I just put in a slightly larger fuse to prevent future trips? I have 14 AWG
going to the master switch & then 20 AWG going from there to the 5A CB &
then to the B&C LR-3 regulator. Don't really want to stop flying & put in a
fusible link.
Guess some point in time I will have to work on the cowl becasue of the
pulley rubbing. Wish B&C had send the right belt size.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 24.0 hrs
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid Lead Times |
When is payment due?
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Carter
> Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 3:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid Lead Times
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Just a heads up . . . I just ordered a Navaid for my 8A . . . the lead
> time
> > is 16 weeks. So . . . if you are planning on installing one of these
> nifty
> > things, I'd think about getting your order placed, now that
> mine has been
> > turned in ;-)
> >
>
> However, they will send you the servo for your installation right away,
> which means you can put the thing in, and just do the panel installation
> later.
>
> Jerry Carter
> RV-8A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger Break-in's |
We had a similar experience here. My hanger, as several others, was broken
into. They used bolt cutters on my side door lock. The big doors are lock
from the inside. They didn't take anything from my hanger or airplane.
They did take several radios from other hangers. The equipment they seemed
to want was King. One fellows C210 was gone that night. They returned a
week later and took his King equipment. The strange thing was that this
fellow had in open hanger for all but the last three months for the seven
years I have been there. He never lost a thing until he put hanger doors
on the hanger.
I found out later that several other airports were hit the same night as
the first raid. Those that I heard from said they had King equipment stolen.
I am putting a solid side door with a dead bolt. That should at least
delay them. Those hangers at our field that had dead bolts with no out
side locks were left untouched.
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6, Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Oil Filter |
>
> Doug, in this case it may be a combination. I called the fellow in
> question to be sure, and this is what I found out. Originally he was
> using an AC Delco PH8 which does have an internal bypass, but the problem
> is he suspects his non-factory plumbing subjects the oil filter, and oil
> cooler to very high pressures even though maximum pressure at the sender
> is about 65 psi. The gasket had blown out twice previous to the filter
> itself blowing out.
>
> He is still running the same plumbing, but has put a cold temperature
> bypass valve on the oil cooler and is using a Champion CH48108, which a
> Champion engineer told him has been tested to 400 psi. The filter is of
> much heavier construction than the particular automotive filter he was
> using. FWIW an AC Delco representative told him the only purpose of the
> bypass valve in the AC filter he was using was to bypass in case of a
> clogged filter.
Larry
If your friend is blowing out a PH8 (PH8A which is a Fram number BTW) even
though the Champion is holding, he has a problem and sooner or later he will
have a problem with the Champion filter, or the oil pump. Even the Fram
probably has a 200 or 250 psi burst. That is far beyond what you engine oil
pump should ever see. He is putting an unnecessary load on the engine and
the entire oil system. Sooner or later he will have a failure of some
system. I would strongly suggest you encourage your friend to take another
look at this system.
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
www.petroblend.com/dougr
dougr(at)petroblend.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger Break-in's |
On a related topic. Check the local pawnshops immediately after being
burglarized. About a year ago my car was broken into in the daytime in
front of my workplace. That day I had brought some very expensive camera
gear with me and left it in the car. I came out for lunch and it was
gone. I immediately went the closest pawnshop and there was the thief
selling my stuff. I confronted him and he ran out. Later was caught and
sent to prison on parole violation.
I did some checking after this and what these guys do is hock the
merchandise before a police report is ever filed. The pawn shop owner
claims that he is not buying stolen merchandise.
Believe it or not I actually had to buy back my stuff from the shop. In
California the law allows this. It may in your state too. Pawnshops are
really just fronts for thieves and this is how they get around it. They
cannot lose.
Mark your property.
Tell your buddies to visit the pawn shops
and they will probably find their stuff.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dustin Norlund <dustin(at)busprod.com> |
| Subject: | Aft Light Wire Routing |
I am at a loss, help. I am trying (key word here) to install my aft
light in the rudder. The light is installed no problem but the
wires.... I have got the wires ran through the aft spar of the
vertical, and into the halfround of the rudder. They cross just above
the lowest hinge point on the rudder. Now... I need to either put a
hole in the leading spar of the rudder and the lower rib to get the
wires to the light or route them around the hiem joint to the lower edge
of the rudder. Has anyone put a hole in the spar of the rudder to pass
wires through? What methods are people using to hold the wires away
from the lower hinge to avoid jamming the rudder? I had to put my hole
above the lower hinge because the tail dragger spring mount is below the
hinge, did not want to drill through it... Any comments welcome.
--
Dustin Norlund
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hanger Break-in's |
be sure to report your avionics to your insurance company (before they are
stolen..) Most participate in the ID program, where your avionics SN# is
listed in the national database. When someone takes a stolen radio in for
repairs or service...or instalation, the technician looks the SN# up first,
then presto....up pops a red flag, and the feds must be notified....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger Break-in's |
> Last night, my hanger was broken into, as were about 25 others at my
> field.
[snip]
> was crunched. Primarily, the sorry &$!!&rds were looking for high dollar
> headsets, portable GPS units, etc. For the most part, tools, even
> expensive ones, were left alone.
[snip]
I suggest making up a list of items/serial #s/ and posting it to the list
(and other matronics lists), and also submit to GA Flyer -- they'll post
stolen items in the classifieds for free. Sure, the best you can hope for is
to recover a few items, but if it helps get the people caught it could take
them out of circulation for a while anyway.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ski2001a(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Start Problem |
I had the same problem with the same engine and the problem was a bad engine
ground! Run a ground cable from the engine case to the airframe and you will
be surprised how fast the engine will turnover!
Tom Clark RV 80525
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ALT Field Fuse |
>
>I have now experienced the nuisance fuse blowing that promted 'Lectric Bob
>to change his schematic to show a fusible link from the main bus to master
>switch instead of the 15A fuse. Well, I built mine to the older version &
>used a fuse. Yesterday at sunset, I was yanking & banking around the
>practice area when the low voltage lights started flashing. I had nav,
>strobe & both wingtip landing lights (50W halogen) burning. I turned off
>the lights & headed in. Checked everything over & found the alt pulley
>about chewed through the cowl and a blown alt. field fuse. Replaced the
>fuse & repeated the flying & el. load after work.
Hmmmm . . . not clear how the pulley rubbing would have anything
to do with nuisance tripping.
> . . . . . All is well, so far. Can
>I just put in a slightly larger fuse to prevent future trips? I have 14 AWG
>going to the master switch & then 20 AWG going from there to the 5A CB &
>then to the B&C LR-3 regulator. Don't really want to stop flying & put in a
>fusible link.
You can put a 20A fuse in. What kind of breaker do you have? When
we did the original tests with a 15A fuse, the breakers we were
using were miniature Klixons . . . have you been having much problem
with this? If the ov module is tripping, there may be some underlying
cause.
>Guess some point in time I will have to work on the cowl becasue of the
>pulley rubbing. Wish B&C had send the right belt size.
As far as I know, there has only been one belt size offered with
the B&C alternators. I'd call them at 316.283.8000 and ask
Bill about it.
If you're getting nuisance trips of the ov system, you may have
a skittish regulator (LR3?) or the ov module's time constant may
have drifted downward. I might swap your ov module out for a new
one so that I can test yours.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy aileron, rigging , heavy wing |
In a message dated 2/29/00 8:01:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I didn't like squeezing that thin
aileron skin, but it made a world of difference. But, it validated my
reasoning behind not painting the plane before flying it. I would be more
uncomfortable squeezing that aileron after it was painted. >>
I wouldn't. It was quite easily done after paint using a seaming pliers with
a little ducky tape on the jaws.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MICROSOFT FLIGHT SIMULATOR RV FIXES |
I would like the RV8 one as I also got the same present and I'm building an
RV8A.
Bill C.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6aJMW(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: MICROSOFT FLIGHT SIMULATOR RV FIXES
>
> Hey fellow Rver's,
> I got Microsoft Flight Simulator 2000 Professional Edition for
Christmas.
> I used to have MFS 98. MSFS2000 allows you to modify the aircraft with a
> program that comes with the software instead of buying it. Its called
> aircraft editor. I got all the RV's on it (RV4, RV6, RV6a*,RV8)(Too bad
not a
> RV3 yet) and the RV4 ran perfect with its 160HP. The RV6 with a 160HP
engine
> ran good to about 130kts then started wobbling. The RV6a with its 160HP
> engine did the same. The RV8 with a whooping 200HP engine and cruises at
> about 210kts and tops out around 225kts.
> So I left the RV4 alone. The RV6, RV6a, RV8 I did some modifications to.
Now
> they both have an IO-360 180HP(Except RV8). I somehow got the wobbling to
> stop by modifying some stuff and now they cruise nice and they both do
great
> aerobatics'. There is an Extra 300 on this game too and I must say the
RV6,
> RV6a run right along with it except the climb rate. The RV6, RV6a climb at
> about 1700-2000fpm. Also along with that I was sick of those old Cessna
182
> panel's so I found a PIC of the net and made my own panel"s". I made one
for
> the RV6a and the RV8. Both seem to be running smooth. I hope to take pic's
at
> our next Young eagles to make them Phone Realistic.Anyways if you want
these
> e-mail me and ill be glad to send them. Here are the specs on these
aircraft.
>
> RV4 RV6a
> O-320 160 HP IO-360 180HP
> Max speed 160kts (182mph) Max speed 185kts (211mph)
> Cruise speed 140kts (160mph) Cruise speed 175kts(200mph)
>
> RV8
> IO-360 200HP
> Max Speed 230kts(262mph)
> Cruise speed 215kts(245mph)
>
> Have panel's for RV6a, RV8. The others share for now but I hope to make
them
> one if anyone working on them has pic's of thier panels that would help
> alot.I didn't make these RV's I just modified them and made the panel"s"
>
> Justin
> RV6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel drain valves |
I believe on the seal lube can it says not to use it on fuel fittings but to
use fuel lube on fuel fittings - same company I guess.
Dave Beizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Gretz Aero pitot tube hardware |
Greetings to all on the list,
The type of connector Marty Emrath is looking for is a AN815-4D Union.
It is male on both ends and is a short barrell type of fitting. A short
piece of aluminum tube is needed (as per my instructions with the pitot
tube mounting braket) to get out of the mounting bracket after
attachment to the pitot tube.Use a AN818-4D Nut and a AN819-4D Sleeve to
connect the short aluminum line to the pitot tube. Use another AN818-4D
Nut and another AN819-4D to attach to the end opposite the pitot tube
end. Both ends of this short aluminum tube are flarred. To the end
opposite the pitot tube on the short tube, connect the AN815-4D Union.
On the other side of the union attach your long length of aluminum tube
which goes to the cockpit. This long line will have another AN818-4D Nut
and flare to attach to the union. If you are using plastic line for your
plumbing, the spot where you will want to connect to the plastic is at
the cockpit side of the union. I do not know what connector works best
here. I used all aluminum line in my installation.
You may purchase these AN fittings at most local Automotive Speed Shops,
ACS, or other aircraft suppliers. They are cheap.
I hope this helps.
Check out my new website to see my products. The address is:
www.gretzaero.com
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot tube 6-40 screws |
There has been alot of traffic on this list as to where to get the 6-40
screws for attachment of the pitot to the mounting bracket. The screws
are packaged is a very small plastic pouch and are inside the box with
the pitot tube. It is very easy to overlook this screw package. I may be
inside of the packing material around the pitot tube. If you are sure
you did not get these screws, contact the business that sold you the
pitot tube. It may be that the pitot tube manufacture is not getting the
screw packet in all of the boxes. If you have purchased the pitot tube
from me, I do have a small supply of extra screw packets.
I would like to know how many purchasers of heated pitot tubes have
received pitot tubes without screws. Even if you did not get the package
from me, let me know. If there is a trend here, I will talk to the
manufacture to see if the problem can get fixed. If you just lost the
screws, maybe I can help. Call me.
Check out my new website. The address is: www.gretzaero.com
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Aero pitot tube hardware |
Thanks for the help Warren, I appreciate you and your fine products.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 10:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gretz Aero pitot tube hardware
>
> Greetings to all on the list,
> The type of connector Marty Emrath is looking for is a AN815-4D Union.
> It is male on both ends and is a short barrell type of fitting. A short
> piece of aluminum tube is needed (as per my instructions with the pitot
> tube mounting braket) to get out of the mounting bracket after
> attachment to the pitot tube.Use a AN818-4D Nut and a AN819-4D Sleeve to
> connect the short aluminum line to the pitot tube. Use another AN818-4D
> Nut and another AN819-4D to attach to the end opposite the pitot tube
> end. Both ends of this short aluminum tube are flarred. To the end
> opposite the pitot tube on the short tube, connect the AN815-4D Union.
> On the other side of the union attach your long length of aluminum tube
> which goes to the cockpit. This long line will have another AN818-4D Nut
> and flare to attach to the union. If you are using plastic line for your
> plumbing, the spot where you will want to connect to the plastic is at
> the cockpit side of the union. I do not know what connector works best
> here. I used all aluminum line in my installation.
>
> You may purchase these AN fittings at most local Automotive Speed Shops,
> ACS, or other aircraft suppliers. They are cheap.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> Check out my new website to see my products. The address is:
> www.gretzaero.com
>
> Warren Gretz
> Gretz Aero
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
To get warm air to flow into the cockpit, the cold air has to have a place to
get out. The cockpit has to be vented to a low pressure area. Also, if you have
a canopy leak in a high pressure area that allows airflow INTO the cockpit, you
can't expect much heat. I regularly fly a Mustang II (my wife's) that is a good
example of this problem. Even the fresh air vents put out very little air.
Dave Bristol, RV6, paint finished (finally) getting ready to go to the airport!
KostaLewis wrote:
>
> >What have you already-flying folks done to stay warm?
> >
> >Does the Robbins heat muff put out more heat in the same space?
>
> Randy: I have the Robbins single muff (muff?) placed on the down pipes from
> the right side of the engine. My air source is a 2" flange on the baffle,
> 2"scatt to the muff (muff?), then a 2" scat to the square Van's heat box.
> It comes through the firewall above my right knee (just above the rudder
> well). It puts out HEAT!! I can rarely have it on full. No springs or steel
> wool in the muff (?). My cockpit is pretty well sealed, which helps, and I
> have a 2" hole in the upper bulkhead of the baggage compartment for air to
> ESCAPE. If air coming in has no where to go, it won't come in as fast. I
> usually don't wear a winter jacket unless it is really cold/cloudy. My back
> seaters have never complained about the cold. Also, I almost never close my
> fresh air vents all the way, even in the winter. They are two eyeball vents
> on the panel.
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> Toasty in the Rockies
> (Muff?)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid Lead Times |
My experience with the Navaid guys has been excellent.
I ordered the A/P on December 6th & was told that delivery would be 12
weeks. On Feb 1st I called to see if they were still on track - they said
they were - & asked them to send the servo ASAP. The servo, manual,
connector etc. arrived about 10 days later, & they took 50% payment from my
credit card, $650. The rest of the parts, T/C head & Porcine coupler,
arrived today. I guess they were one day late as 12 weeks was yesterday :-)
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.slinger.net/rv-6a/
West Bend, WI
RV6A-QB N-86CG, final details before moving to the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | fixed pitch prop has reverse thrust! |
The Columbia River Gorge is legendary with it's east winds. Often during
the winter at Troutdale(TTD) it's 32 with gusts to 35. The other day I
tried something in my -6A that had worked with the T-craft I learned in.
Over Crown Point which sticks out into the gorge I got my GPS to show a 2
kt ground speed. That wasn't correct because it showed a tracking of 250
degrees and I was pointed east, doing a negative 2 kts actually. After
raising the flaps and an about face I was able to show 240 kts, which of
course, plays hell with the poor controller shuffling Cessnas around. I
would guess though that an RV'r out of Laramie could top that having once
faced 70mph winds over the Medicine Bow mtn range. Kevin -6A do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 rudder cable question |
Scott,
I ran into the same thing about a month ago. I dug out some pictures of
other RV-4 interiors and noticed all of them had the cables through the 404
bulkhead. Vans must have missed this on the drawing since its not shown.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse almost done
Engine being rebuilt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware |
In a message dated 02/28/2000 10:31:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
randyl(at)pacifier.com writes:
<< Andy,
How to connect the aluminum tubing to the plastic has come many many times.
For the parts-challenged among us would you wouldn't mind posting the exact
part numbers and sources for the archives? Warren has had a million
questions on this, I'm surprised he doesn't post the data also. Perhaps if
you'd be so kind as to make the list he would post it on his web site.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, a wiring and a plumbin
>>
Randy, Warren, et al, Here's the list of materials from Wicks catalog to
adapt 1/4" nyloseal tubing to 1/4" aluminum tubing (and vice versa):
1. p/n 268N-04X02 nylon male connector (1/4" tubing to 1/8" pipe thread)
2. p/n AN910-1D 1/8" pipe coupling alum. (1/8" female pipe threads both ends)
3. p/n AN816-4D nipple (1/8" pipe thread x 1/4" flare tube)
4. p/n AN818-4D nut (to go on the flare end of the AN816 nipple)
5. p/n MS20819-4D sleeve (to go inside the AN818 nut & over the alum tubing)
Thats all thats needed to go tube-to-tube, however, there are no AN818-4D
nuts or MS20819-4D sleeves provided with the Gretz pitot tube so you'll need
a set of those for each connnection. If you are using the pitot tube with the
static source you will need two of everthing listed above (items 1 thru 5)
I also used a bulkhead fitting on the root rib for each line which is p/n
282N-04. I used 7/16" (drill size) x 1/4" (tubing size) snap bushings in each
rib, p/n 2038.
Hope this is of help. Andy Johnson, -8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot hardware |
In a message dated 02/29/2000 12:13:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Emrath(at)home.com writes:
"snip" My line is AL tubing per plans and I flared
the end with flare nut installed. This means that I will need to put a
flare on an end of a short piece of AL tubing with a flare nut to connect to
the pitot but at the other end where it connects to the pitot line I'm not
sure what sort of fitting I need. The pitot line has a flare and nut on the
end which will need to connect to a male fitting with threads of some sort.
Can anyone (or everyone) tell me what part number fitting I need? >>
The part you need is the AN815-4D (for 1/4") union. You will also need two
flare nuts, AN818-04 and two MS20819-4D sleeves. Andy Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware |
In a message dated 02/29/2000 10:23:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Kbalch1(at)aol.com writes:
<< Hi Andy,
I'm planning on using plastic tubing (Nylo-Seal) for the pitot and static
lines. The part that is confusing me is how to fabricate and install the
aluminum tube extensions between the pitot tube stubs and the bulkhead
fittings in the first rib inboard of the pitot tube. If I use aluminum for
those extensions (due to the proximity of the heating element), how do I
provide for enough 'slack' to be able to install and remove the pitot tube
from the completed wing? Isn't the aluminum tubing too rigid to allow the
pitot tube to be drawn down from its mount enough to detach it?
Also, I'm having difficulty visualizing the exact parts that I need to
order.
I've never done this sort of thing before and all the fittings in the
catalog look the same to me. :-) Not really, but I'm still having trouble
identifying the correct ones. What I'd like to do is have a pair of
bulkhead
fittings (one pitot & one static) in the first rib inboard of the pitot
tube,
followed by simple snap bushings in the remaining interior ribs, followed by
another pair of bulkhead fittings in the root rib. I figure that'll make it
simple to eventually connect the tubing to the panel. Am I missing anything
here (obvious or otherwise)?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
>>
Ken, now that I bothered to look, I used nyloseeal also due to its strength.
I did not terminate the aluminum lines at the next inboard rib but used about
8" or so of alum line as a heat sink, coupling directly to the nyloseal. See
my earlier post tonight on a materials list for the connection. I left a loop
of tubing inside the wing between the ribs somewhat smaller in diameter than
the space between the ribs. This allows the tubing to be withdrawn relatively
easily through the pitot mount I didn't feel that the alum was flexible
enough to do this more than once or twice without problems. But, I could be
wrong. The aluminum tubing exits the pitot at right angles pointing toward
the wing root, more or less. You will probably have to play around with the
bends and directions of the tubing to get it to work easily. Regards, Andy
Johnson, -8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Guys,
I'm here in Sydney for the next four to six months. That puts the RV on
hold.
I've gotten a Microlight pilot interested in RVs. He's expressed an
interest in finding out more about building RVs here.
So!
Who's in the Sydney area and what are they building? Heck, if there's
somebody here who wants an extra hand on weekends from time to time, I've
got plenty of time on my hands.
Let me know.
Bob
RV8 #423 will be ordering the fuselage when I get back.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <doug.gray(at)hlos.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Data RV-8A (Long) |
>This was measured by GPS runs and
>averaging although the speed in opposite direction on this particular day
>were only 3 knots different.
The good news is that you almost certainly have understated your true
airspeed by this method.
The bad news is that your are almost certainly in error with your
calculation of True Airspeed. The only time when your calculation would
be correct is if your runs were exactly aligned with the wind
direction.
With a 3 knot difference in GS between the runs it sounds like you were
more likely to be flying reciprocal headings at right angles to the
wind, this is worst case error condition.
I have a neat spreadsheet to do a good calculation using GPS headings
and groundspeeds, three runs required in any direction (no DG
required). Give it a try you may even get another 5 knots without
adding wheelpants.
go to "http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html" and download the pdf
file.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Lead Times |
<<<< However, they will send you the servo for
your installation right away,
> which means you can put the thing in, and just
do the panel installation
> later.
>
> Jerry Carter
> RV-8A>>>>
Roger to that info Jerry. Below is NavAid's e-mail
reply to me to-day.......
<<<<>>>>
I did request that they ship the servo ASAP, but
can wait the 16 weeks for the rest.
I seem to think they are giving rv-list members
special treatment and their customer service is
excellent.
Ken Glover RV6A Hunter Valley Aust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
> > >Funny how simple it is for people to trash God and
> > >then wonder why the world's going to hell.
> > >
> > >
> > >Funny how we believe what the newspapers say, but
> > >question what the Bible says.
> > >
> > >
> > >Funny how everyone wants to go to heaven provided
> > >they do not have to believe, think, say, or do anything
> > >the Bible says.
> > >
> > >
> > >Or is it scary?
> > >Funny how someone can say "I believe in God" but still
> > >follow Satan (who, by the way, also "believes" in God).
> > >
> > >
> > >Funny how you can send a thousand 'jokes' through
> > >e-mail and they spread like wildfire, but when you start
> > >sending messages regarding the Lord, people think twice
> > >about sharing.
> > >
> > >
> > >Funny how the lewd, crude, vulgar and obscene pass
> > >freely through cyberspace, but the public discussion of
> > >Jesus is suppressed in the school and workplace.
> > >
> > >
> > >FUNNY, ISN'T IT?
> > >
> > >
> > >Funny how someone can be so fired up for Christ on
> > >Sunday, but be an invisible Christian the rest of the week.
> > >
> > >
> > >Are you laughing?
> > >
> > >
> > >Funny how when you go to forward this message,
> > >you will not sent it to many on your address list because
> > >you're not sure what they believe, or what they will
> > >think of you for sending it to them.
> > >
> > >
> > >Funny how I can be more worried about what other
> > >people think of me than what God thinks of me.
> > >
> > >
> > >Are you thinking?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)boernenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger Break-in's |
dann mann wrote:
> Believe it or not I actually had to buy back my stuff from the shop. In
> California the law allows this. It may in your state too. Pawnshops are
> really just fronts for thieves
The real thieves are in the California legislature taxing the bejeebers out
of aircraft owners...
Jim San Antonio, TEXAS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Lead Times |
Payment is only due at shipment. By the way, I also ordered two of Garmin's
new toys from Southeast Aerospace. These items are on back order (the new
420 combination GPS/Comm and the new all-bells-and-even-a-whistle GTX327
transponder. Southeast has contacted Garmin and is trying to move me up on
the waiting list. The point is, this seems like a great company with great
pricing. The price they quoted me on the 327 was BELOW what they show on
their website. If you order from them ask for Jenny and mention my name
(thanks). Their number is 321-255-9877.
Rick Jory
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 6:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Navaid Lead Times
>
>When is payment due?
>
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Carter
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 3:54 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid Lead Times
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Just a heads up . . . I just ordered a Navaid for my 8A . . . the lead
>> time
>> > is 16 weeks. So . . . if you are planning on installing one of these
>> nifty
>> > things, I'd think about getting your order placed, now that
>> mine has been
>> > turned in ;-)
>> >
>>
>> However, they will send you the servo for your installation right away,
>> which means you can put the thing in, and just do the panel installation
>> later.
>>
>> Jerry Carter
>> RV-8A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | builder assistance in NY/NJ/CT |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
i am looking for someone to help me complete my 6a. the airframe is
basically complete. the major tasks remaining are attaching wings and gear,
electrical/panel, and firewall forward.
ideally, i would find someone with rv experience and a suitable shop within
a few hours drive from my home in westchester, ny. if it is further away
than that, i would consider that too. i would like to work on this full-time
until completion, beginning as soon as possible.
if you are interested or can recommend anyone, please let me know.
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a finish kit
mamaroneck, ny
mailto: N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ALT Field Fuse |
A fuseable link is a fuse (piece of wire) burried in the wire bundle........how
would this be any better than the fuse that blew ???
racaldwell(at)hotmail.com on 02/29/2000 08:27:32 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: ALT Field Fuse
I have now experienced the nuisance fuse blowing that promted 'Lectric Bob
to change his schematic to show a fusible link from the main bus to master
switch instead of the 15A fuse. Well, I built mine to the older version &
used a fuse. Yesterday at sunset, I was yanking & banking around the
practice area when the low voltage lights started flashing. I had nav,
strobe & both wingtip landing lights (50W halogen) burning. I turned off
the lights & headed in. Checked everything over & found the alt pulley
about chewed through the cowl and a blown alt. field fuse. Replaced the
fuse & repeated the flying & el. load after work. All is well, so far. Can
I just put in a slightly larger fuse to prevent future trips? I have 14 AWG
going to the master switch & then 20 AWG going from there to the 5A CB &
then to the B&C LR-3 regulator. Don't really want to stop flying & put in a
fusible link.
Guess some point in time I will have to work on the cowl becasue of the
pulley rubbing. Wish B&C had send the right belt size.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 24.0 hrs
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ALT Field Fuse |
My understanding is the fusible link has a slower response than a fuse to
current surges. A fuse will blow immediately while the wire requires some
amount of time to heat sufficiently before melting. This is why the
schematics were changed recently. as seen, 'Lectric Bob suggested I install
a 20A fuse. I will.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 24.0 hrs. 1st x-c this weekend to Shady Bend RV fly in.
Melbourne, FL
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ALT Field Fuse
>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 09:57:10 -0500
>
>
>A fuseable link is a fuse (piece of wire) burried in the wire
>bundle........how
>would this be any better than the fuse that blew ???
>
>
>racaldwell(at)hotmail.com on 02/29/2000 08:27:32 PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: RV-List: ALT Field Fuse
>
>
>I have now experienced the nuisance fuse blowing that promted 'Lectric Bob
>to change his schematic to show a fusible link from the main bus to master
>switch instead of the 15A fuse. Well, I built mine to the older version &
>used a fuse. Yesterday at sunset, I was yanking & banking around the
>practice area when the low voltage lights started flashing. I had nav,
>strobe & both wingtip landing lights (50W halogen) burning. I turned off
>the lights & headed in. Checked everything over & found the alt pulley
>about chewed through the cowl and a blown alt. field fuse. Replaced the
>fuse & repeated the flying & el. load after work. All is well, so far.
>Can
>I just put in a slightly larger fuse to prevent future trips? I have 14
>AWG
>going to the master switch & then 20 AWG going from there to the 5A CB &
>then to the B&C LR-3 regulator. Don't really want to stop flying & put in
>a
>fusible link.
>
>Guess some point in time I will have to work on the cowl becasue of the
>pulley rubbing. Wish B&C had send the right belt size.
>
>Rick Caldwell
>RV-6 24.0 hrs
>Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware |
All this pitot hardware stuff is overwhelming to this shade-tree
aircraft fabricator!
I used a two inch long piece of clear plastic hose that I found in the
aviation department of AutoZone to join the aluminum and nyloseal
tubing. Since the OD's of the pitot tubing is slightly larger than the
10 seconds to install and is easily cut away for disassembly if
necessary.
Let's not make this more complex than necessary....
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
----------------------
RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 02/28/2000 10:31:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> randyl(at)pacifier.com writes:
>
> << Andy,
> How to connect the aluminum tubing to the plastic has come many many times.
> For the parts-challenged among us would you wouldn't mind posting the exact
> part numbers and sources for the archives? Warren has had a million
> questions on this, I'm surprised he doesn't post the data also. Perhaps if
> you'd be so kind as to make the list he would post it on his web site.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, a wiring and a plumbin
> >>
> Randy, Warren, et al, Here's the list of materials from Wicks catalog to
> adapt 1/4" nyloseal tubing to 1/4" aluminum tubing (and vice versa):
> 1. p/n 268N-04X02 nylon male connector (1/4" tubing to 1/8" pipe thread)
> 2. p/n AN910-1D 1/8" pipe coupling alum. (1/8" female pipe threads both ends)
> 3. p/n AN816-4D nipple (1/8" pipe thread x 1/4" flare tube)
> 4. p/n AN818-4D nut (to go on the flare end of the AN816 nipple)
> 5. p/n MS20819-4D sleeve (to go inside the AN818 nut & over the alum tubing)
>
> Thats all thats needed to go tube-to-tube, however, there are no AN818-4D
> nuts or MS20819-4D sleeves provided with the Gretz pitot tube so you'll need
> a set of those for each connnection. If you are using the pitot tube with the
> static source you will need two of everthing listed above (items 1 thru 5)
>
> I also used a bulkhead fitting on the root rib for each line which is p/n
> 282N-04. I used 7/16" (drill size) x 1/4" (tubing size) snap bushings in each
> rib, p/n 2038.
> Hope this is of help. Andy Johnson, -8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: FuNnY... |
> > > >Funny how we believe what the newspapers say, but
> > > >question what the Bible says.
Marty,
With all due respect, I don't think this is an appropriate forum for this
sort of thing. It represents a fairly flagrant violation of the simple rules
of the list. Further, while I respect your right to whatever religious views
you prefer, I resent this attempt at imposing this on others.
I'm sure we've all hit the send key too soon at one time or another, have a
great day.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ALT Field Fuse |
Then isn't the proper solution a slo-blow 15 amp or a 20 amp fuse (that can
handle the current transient ??? I can not see the wisdom in a fuseable link.
Cost cannot be the issue....a piece of wire is almost certainly free but the
TIME needed to diagnosis the problem, find the now-burned, open fuseable link
and neatly install another one is most certainly out of line when compaired to
a fuse holder and fuse or a CB....(not even trying to get the ole thread of
pilot-accessable fuses vs. non-accessable fuses i.e. fly the plane...thing
going.....)
Is this the real reason why the fuseable link approach was chosen ???
racaldwell(at)hotmail.com on 03/01/2000 10:13:06 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: ALT Field Fuse
My understanding is the fusible link has a slower response than a fuse to
current surges. A fuse will blow immediately while the wire requires some
amount of time to heat sufficiently before melting. This is why the
schematics were changed recently. as seen, 'Lectric Bob suggested I install
a 20A fuse. I will.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 24.0 hrs. 1st x-c this weekend to Shady Bend RV fly in.
Melbourne, FL
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ALT Field Fuse
>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 09:57:10 -0500
>
>
>A fuseable link is a fuse (piece of wire) burried in the wire
>bundle........how
>would this be any better than the fuse that blew ???
>
>
>racaldwell(at)hotmail.com on 02/29/2000 08:27:32 PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: RV-List: ALT Field Fuse
>
>
>I have now experienced the nuisance fuse blowing that promted 'Lectric Bob
>to change his schematic to show a fusible link from the main bus to master
>switch instead of the 15A fuse. Well, I built mine to the older version &
>used a fuse. Yesterday at sunset, I was yanking & banking around the
>practice area when the low voltage lights started flashing. I had nav,
>strobe & both wingtip landing lights (50W halogen) burning. I turned off
>the lights & headed in. Checked everything over & found the alt pulley
>about chewed through the cowl and a blown alt. field fuse. Replaced the
>fuse & repeated the flying & el. load after work. All is well, so far.
>Can
>I just put in a slightly larger fuse to prevent future trips? I have 14
>AWG
>going to the master switch & then 20 AWG going from there to the 5A CB &
>then to the B&C LR-3 regulator. Don't really want to stop flying & put in
>a
>fusible link.
>
>Guess some point in time I will have to work on the cowl becasue of the
>pulley rubbing. Wish B&C had send the right belt size.
>
>Rick Caldwell
>RV-6 24.0 hrs
>Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Huntington <jimrhunt(at)wco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA/LRI (lengthy) |
List,
I would like to respond to several comments by Mr. Lewis concerning the
Lift Reserve Indicator.
I do not want to go over well plowed ground, but let me say that the LRI
has been tested by Cessna, Wichita State, Embry Riddle, NASA Langely and
was on Aviation Consumer's Mooney for over ten years. The LRI is far more
than a stall warning device.
As Mr. Lewis may remember, the LRI is currently being flight tested on the
EAA/FAA GlaStar project with results due out this summer. I requested that
questions be sent to me for inclusion on that project. Mr. Lewis may
recall that his questions were indeed submitted and the information will be
available when the project results are published. It is our intention, as
well, to submit the LRI to the CAFE Society. Of course, many folks on this
list know that the LRI is on Bruce Bohanon's Exxon Tiger.
The question of whether the LRI is a true AOA indicator is a technical one.
There is debate on both sides of the matter. It revoles around the
question of dynamic pressure input.
I am including below a product review by Howard Fried, aviation writer and
columnist for AVweb. If I have previously sent this to the list, apologies.
Jim Huntington
Not long ago I wrote a column for Avweb in which I pointed out that air
carrier aircraft, corporate jets, and military aircraft all have Angle of
Attack Indicators, and I forcefully stated that all aircraft, particularly
General Aviation light planes should also have them. When that column
appeared on Avweb I was contacted by one of the partners who produce the
LRI or Lift Reserve Indicator. He informed me that their product was an
angle of attack indicator, but not only that but much more and I was
invited to try a LRI and report on its effectiveness. After having the unit
installed and calibrated I went out yesterday to check out its performance
and see if it does everything the manufacturer claims.
I would say that it does more than claimed, but that's impossible because
the claims indicate that it does so much. It does, however, do everything
it is supposed to do, and it does it very well. It is extremely user
friendly, a necessity for a dummy like me. No fancy interpretation
required, one just glances at the indicator and learns whatever he is
seeking to know about the flight situation of his flyin' machine. As for
what it does, the name says it all. It tells you just how much lift is
being generated by the attitude and power of one's aircraft at any given
moment, and by that I mean to say that its response is immediate. The LRI
differs from the ordinary angle of attack indicator in that it becomes
effective as soon as the take-off roll is started. Thus it provides precise
information as to when the pilot should lift off for the best angle of
climb. Therefore, by using an LRI for your source of information, you can
get into the very tightest field your aircraft is capable of (and get out
as well).
I have repeatedly pointed out that the objective in landing an airplane
is
to be going just as slowly as you possibly can at the moment of touchdown.
Well, the LRI enables you to do just that safely with complete confidence.
A glance at the LRI lets the pilot know exactly where he stands with
respect to the critical (stall) angle of attack. Thus, he can safely
operate in the very slowest of slow flight regimes.
The critical angle is a fixed number of degrees, and it never changes.
However, that specific number is reached at a variety of airspeeds
depending on a number of external conditions, including weight, center of
gravity location, gustiness, flap position, landing gear position, and
others. The Lift Reserve Indicator is unaffected by these conditions
Whereas the airspeed indicator has a built-in lag in its response, the
response of the LRI is instantaneous.
In my column on Avweb, I pointed out that an angle of attack indicator
is
cheap. An ordinary angle of attack indicator is a rather primitive
instrument, and operates much like the stall warning device on our
airplanes. The stall warning device consists of a vane protruding forward
into the relative wind, aligned with the longitudinal axis of the airplane.
As the airplane pitches up, or banks, this vane moves upward until it
finally causes a contact, closing an electric circuit and sounding a buzzer
or flashing a light, advising the pilot that a stall is imminent. Somewhat
more sophisticated is the conventional angle of attack indicator, but it
works on the same principle, the difference being that the angle of attack
indicator powers an instrument, which gives the pilot a read-out telling
him just where he stands with respect to the critical angle of attack.
Unlike these devices which are electric-mechanical, the Lift Reserve
Indicator gets its information from the pneumatic differential between two
sources of air, the relative wind and still, undisturbed air. The only
electricity it uses is on the model that has a heated probe. Therefore, it
comes alive as soon as the take-off roll starts and it keeps giving useful
information as long as the aircraft is in motion. It tells the pilot just
how much lift is being generated at any given time, and more importantly,
just how much lift he has in the bank (the amount of his lift reserve).
When it gets to the point of zero lift reserve, the aircraft will no longer
be able to maintain altitude.
We all know that what keeps us up there in the sky is the excess of lift
over gravity. When we have either slowed down thus increasing the angle of
attack or increased the angle of attack with pitch to the point of zero
lift, the airplane will sink, perhaps imperceptibly, but increase the angle
of attack a bit more, and a stall will result. The LRI informs the pilot at
exactly what point he has "zero lift reserve." And it works under all
conditions of weight, center of gravity, flap position, density of the air,
angle of bank, and turbulence. Thus in wind shear conditions it
instantaneously advises the pilot of loss of lift and the immanence of a
stall condition and, most important, it tells the pilot what he must do to
recover...
I intend to equip my entire school fleet with them, and I urge every
aircraft owner to do likewise, or at the very least have some sort of angle
of attack indicator installed on his airplane.
Howard J. Fried
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AOA/LRI (lengthy) |
Howard Freid is quoted as saying:
<< We all know that what keeps us up there in the sky is the excess of lift
over gravity. When we have either slowed down thus increasing the angle of
attack or increased the angle of attack with pitch to the point of zero
lift, the airplane will sink, perhaps imperceptibly, but increase the angle
of attack a bit more, and a stall will result. >>
There are enough errors in these sentences alone to cause me to question this
man's credentials. Either he is vastly simplifying for his audience, or he
needs a refresher course from Wolfgang Langewesche (sp?) as in Stick and
Rudder.
It will be interesting to see how the CAFE and other trials turn out. Let us
know.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Van in Albuquerque |
Listers,
I received a phone message today from Ken Scott at Van's. Van himself, the
creator of our airplane dreams and associated maxed out credit cards, will
be in Albuquerque, New Mexico, March 16-18. I will be contacting Ken later
today (gotta go fly now!) for more details. Our city will also be hosting
the IAC national convention in association with the NAA at the Convention
center downtown that week. Many vendors, seminars and static displays will
be there. I suspect Van has originally planned his trip around this
convention, or perhaps to visit with his soaring buddy, George Applebay at
the Soaring museum up in Moriarty. (Hmmm...I can just see the start of an
"RV glider" thread). Pat Kirkpatrick (RV6A) will make some contacts with
the EAA folks and see if we can arrange for Van to give a talk at the
chapter meeting in Moriarty on the 18th.
So, if any of you RV'ers out there would like a festive weekend of RV chat
with Van, and lots of other cool aviation stuff at the convention, put it on
your calendar. I'll update the list as I learn more of his agenda.
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat Placement... |
I know Piper uses a small tab, you have to push this in completely to get
the mixture to Idle Cut Off. Maybe there's a way to fix something up for the
RV in a similar fashion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot hardware |
I agree with Sam (KISS) and did the same to connect mine.
Just my .02
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>All this pitot hardware stuff is overwhelming to this shade-tree
>aircraft fabricator!
>
>I used a two inch long piece of clear plastic hose that I found in the
>aviation department of AutoZone to join the aluminum and nyloseal
>tubing. Since the OD's of the pitot tubing is slightly larger than the
>10 seconds to install and is easily cut away for disassembly if
>necessary.
>
>Let's not make this more complex than necessary....
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: FuNnY... |
DID'NT STOP TO "THINK ABOUT IT" HUH RANDY MIKE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger Break-in's |
In a message dated 02/29/2000 5:14:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< 4) You should be able to find some good deals on slightly used flight gear
at
SNF... >>
This is true. Let's hope that nobody is buying their own stuff back. do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ALT Field Fuse |
>
>
>A fuseable link is a fuse (piece of wire) burried in the wire
bundle........how
>would this be any better than the fuse that blew ???
>
Fusible links are used in cases where the need to protect
the system is an extremely rare event. In the case cited,
there is a need to extend a bus structure from a fuseblock
remotely mounted from the panel to a 5A circuit breaker located
on the panel. The breaker is the device EXPECTED to react
to both downstream faults in wiring -and- trips of the
ov module that produce an artificial fault that opens the
breaker.
Our original concept used one of the fuseblock's feedpoints
with a 15A fuse in it to extend a leadwire to the 5A breaker
on the panel. The problem was that depending on the style
and brand of breaker, the fuse might open before the breaker
does . . .
Without putting controls on the breaker, it was an operationally
better design to use the fusible link . . . very reliable compared
to any kind of fuse/fuseholder combo yet provides the necessary
weak-link to protect a short length of small gage wire
that extends the bus up to the breaker.
We'll use fusible links in a few other places like ammeter shunt
leads to the instrument panel, e-bus alternate feed paths, single
always hot feeds like a hobbs meter, clock or perhaps a single
electronic ignition (if you have more than two always hot feeds
then a small fuse block for a battery bus is more appropriate).
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Guys, I'm sorry, I don't know what is going on. I did not send this
message, but it appears it went out to all of my stored addresses. I recall
how someone said you can only get a virus via attachments so I'm guess I got
hit by one. In fact, I received this at my office machine but it wasn't
even directed "TO" me.
Does anyone know anything about a virus along these lines, maybe with the
name "FuNnY"?
So Sorry, I realize this is not the forum for this.
Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: marcel de ruiter <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: FuNnY...
> I do not think that your funny at all. As a matter of fact I think that
you
> could be very offensive towards people who follow a particular religon.
>
> Also, your post on the RV-List has absolutely no RV-content.
> This is a contravention of the regulations of the RV-list.
>
> Do yourself and other listers a favour and do not post any such outings of
> your personal opinions on other people's religious believes on the
RV-list.
>
> Further, do read through the regulations of the RV-list and you will find
> some advice as to how to operate if you desire to make a posting.
> Your posting has now disappeared into the archives of the RV-list, do
really
> think anybody would possibly find the need to look up your post in the
> future?
> If you really think that you have to make these posts, at least ad the "do
> not archive" phrase.
>
> Marcel de Ruiter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
marty----it's ok---it's like if i said " orville- meet me at the bicycle
shop, i've got a great idea". most would laugh but some would complain.
big deal- lets get on with building these wonderful flying machines
mike[rv-4]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Start Problem |
wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> I have been living with an engine starting problem which has recently
> starting to become a nuisance. I have an O-320E3D 160hp which has no
> problem starting up from a cold start. Two blades and she fires every time,
> even in cool weather (teens). The problem comes only when the engine is
> warm, like stopping some place to get fuel. Some times I can only get it to
> turn one blade at a time then it acts like I'm out of juice. But if I wait
> for at least 30 minutes, which happens at most pit stops, she fires up just
> as reliable. I've been using this trick thinking that the compression is
> just too high on a warm engine. Now I just have to ask for your opinions.
>
> Some facts: I have a wood prop, Gil G-30 battery (1.5 years old), Light
> weight starter from Van's, One-month old annual inspection showed
> compression at 75, 76, 77, and 78/80. What else?....
>
> What could it be? Could starter performance degrade due to the heat under
> the cowls? All comments/opinions are welcome.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Anh
> N985VU
> Maryland
Anh,
The other replies I've seen to your post could each cause or at least
contribute to your problem, but in my opinion, your guess is the most
likely. I have the same problem with my -4. It's had both the old stock
Lyc starter and a Mark Landoll (automotive type) geared starter. While
it's possible that we both have bad engine grounds, I've checked mine &
it seems fine.
Heat causes resistance in a wire to rise, and a starter motor is
basically a big coil of wire.
If you fly the plane, land, shut down immediately, then attempt a
restart within a minute or 2, will it crank ok? Then if it sits 10 - 15
minutes it barely turns over, and 30 to 40 minutes later (without
recharging the battery) it will turn over ok again? These are my
symptoms. My belief is that cooling airflow keeps the starter cool while
flying; when you shut down it begins to absorb heat from the engine
without being able to shed the heat due the tight cowl, and after 30 -
40 minutes everything has cooled & the starter's resistance has dropped
to a normal level.
Good luck with yours; I've learned to live with mine. BTW, a fairly
fresh battery helps, and $20 garden tractor batteries work just as well
as $100 a/c batteries. They don't leak any worse doing pos G acro,
either.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 8A Rudder Cable Routing |
Listers:
I have run into a problem on my 804 center pass through where the 5/8" holes
are to be drilled for rudder cable routing. My plans are from Jan 99 which
did not include Revision 7 which changes the location of the hole.
I have already drilled the hole on the 804K angle per VIEW 1 looking forward.
Van's engineers say to leave the hole where it is and move on. My problem
lies in where to drill the hole for VIEW 2 looking aft. Vans told me to
leave the forward hole as drilled and put the aft hole per the plans but then
the holes don't line up??????
So why would I do that? If they didn't want the holes to line up why did
they come out with a revision? HELP !!!!
Len
RV-8A fuselage
North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy aileron, rigging , heavy wing |
> Question why are we squeezing the aileron? why don,t
> you just turn your turnbuckle and bring the heavy wing
> up? Why mess with a oretty aileron or let me guess I,m
> missing something, right?
The thing you are missing is that the root cause of the heavy wing is very
likely the fact that the aileron trailing edges aren't bent precisely the
same in the first place. Just a little bit off from one or the other is
enough to make for a heavy wing. More than a little will make for a REALLY
heavy wing.
I suggest going to the archives for more on this. I've posted a few messages
about it as have others, that describe in more detail what's going on. Not
that I'm an expert but I was coached in this by one (Jerry VanGrunsven).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morris" <morristec(at)icdc.com> |
I am headed to ABQ for the SSA convention. If anyone in that area wants to
meet up and chat, exchange stories, show me their airplane, etc. let me know
off line. I'll be there 3-15 PM until 3-20.
Dan Morris
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Blake" <danblake(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals |
I had the opportunity to fly the RV-8A demo from the back seat, and can say
with out reservation that they work very well in the air. Did not taxi the
aircraft, but will definitely order them with my QB kit.
Dan Blake
Atlanta
8 tail
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Santschi <rv8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 6:03 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Rear Seat Rudder Pedals
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Chris Santschi"
>
> Builders:
>
> Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
>
> Chris Santschi RV8 80881 Pro-Seal Time.
> Festus,MO.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | AOA Probe/Pitot Tube Installation (long) |
I have been following this "mini-thread" with interest, as well as the
much larger thread last year, because I know I will eventually install
one of the AOA devices in my RV, I just haven't decided yet which one it
will be.
One of the oft-repeated criticisms I see about the LRI is that it is not
a vane-type or "true" AOA device. If the definition of a "true" AOA
system is that it be the protruding vane type system as used on military
jets, then it seems to me that you couldn't properly call the Propretary
Software Systems device a "true" AOA system, either.
There are some questions that come to mind. First of all, do we know
for sure that a vane-type system is inherently more accurate? Just
because it measures so-called "true" AOA, does that make it inherently
better?
Just today, I received in the mail a newsletter of sorts from
Proprietary Software Systems, apparently issue #1 of what will be a
monthly publication from now on. It is billed as a "clearinghouse for
ideas and opinions" about AOA. I'm sure it is intended to be somewhat
more self-serving than that, but it did contain some good information.
One of the topics in the newsletter was evaluating the accuracy of your
installed AOA system. This was done using a linear analysis in which
multiple observed IAS readings were compared to IAS that was computed by
the AOA device. The example used was a PSS AOA Professional installed
in an RV-6A. The 6A was owned by and the data provided by Jerry
VanGrunsven. If the speeds computed by the AOA device are close to the
observed speeds over the entire range of AOA, the device (and the
installation) is considered accurate. In this particular analysis, the
average difference, or error, at all angles of attack was less than 2%.
Here is the kicker - by comparison, according to the PSS people, the Air
Force's A-10 Thunderbolt "uses a vane based system and is reported to
have computed versus observed errors of over 15%".
I don't know if Navy jets would have this wide of an error margin or
not. Maybe they are dead-on accurate. But in any case, it also occurs
to me that their "mission profile" is somewhat different from ours.
First and foremost, their primary use for AOA is to fly a stabilized
power-on approach down the glideslope that is intended to culminate in a
controlled crash on a postage stamp of a deck that is moving away from
you and may also be rising and falling. As general aviation pilots, our
"mission profile" is to fly safely under a very wide and ever changing
variety of conditions and configurations. This includes, just to name a
few, avoiding stalls in the landing pattern, avoiding departure stalls,
being made instantly aware when factors such as weight, CG loading,
density altitude, turbulence, wind shear, etc are bringing you
dangerously close to a stall when you don't even realize it, getting in
and out of short and/or high density altitude fields as safely as
possible, and always being able to land at the slowest possible safe
speed.
If a device is accurate and reliable over the range of AOA, and if it
helps me fly safer as a result, I don't give a damn if it's not what the
military uses, or if it's not reading "true" AOA. If it's NOT accurate
over a wide speed range and throughout the AOA range, then that's a
different story. This is the one criticism of the LRI that, if proven,
might constitute a problem. After all, if you're going to bet your life
on one of these systems, it's reasonable to expect and even demand that
it be accurate under pretty much all circumstances. A few people have
alleged that the LRI may not be accurate throughout the entire
envelope. If this is true, I certainly want to know about it, but so
far I haven't seen any proof. If you're an LRI detractor, and you have
some proof that it's not accurate, then let's see it. If you don't have
any proof, then how do you know there's something wrong with it???
Hopefully, a reputable testing organization such as CAFE could put this
question to rest one way or the other.
Are there any ex-Navy/Marine/Air Force fighter jocks on the list who
would care to comment on their experiences flying the vane-type AOA, and
what the margin of error in those systems was? Did you find it to be
dead-accurate in all configurations, at all speeds, at all G's, at every
percentage of AOA? Or was there any way of you even knowing if there
was a certain amount of system or installation error?
George True, Phoenix AZ
picking up a partially-completed RV-8 project (kit #80250) in two
weeks...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan VanGrunsven" <stanvan(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Start Problem |
>> The problem comes only when the engine is
>> warm, like stopping some place to get fuel. Some times I can only get it
to
>> turn one blade at a time then it acts like I'm out of juice. But if I
wait
>> for at least 30 minutes, which happens at most pit stops, she fires up
just
>> as reliable. I've been using this trick thinking that the compression is
>> just too high on a warm engine. Now I just have to ask for your
opinions.
The problem sounds like pre-ignition. I've had the exact symptoms on 3
different engines, (auto). After hot running, crank the engine with no
ignition. Some jumper wires with alligator clips to ground the mags should
do the trick. Pre-ignition will act like a weak or dying starter.
Stan Van Grunsven
RV-6A.....350 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | Engine Start Problem |
Sounds like a starter motor problem to me. The indication is that it
feels like it's out of juice when hot but it turns the prop smartly when
it's cold. Try having the Starter motor checked for amp draw when hot and
you may find that that's the problem.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Charlie and Tupper England
> Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 09:42 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Start Problem
>
>
>
>
> wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers,
> > I have been living with an engine starting problem which has recently
> > starting to become a nuisance. I have an O-320E3D 160hp which has no
> > problem starting up from a cold start. Two blades and she fires every
> time,
> > even in cool weather (teens). The problem comes only when the engine is
> > warm, like stopping some place to get fuel. Some times I can only get
> it to
> > turn one blade at a time then it acts like I'm out of juice. But if I
> wait
> > for at least 30 minutes, which happens at most pit stops, she fires up
> just
> > as reliable. I've been using this trick thinking that the compression
> is
> > just too high on a warm engine. Now I just have to ask for your
> opinions.
> >
> > Some facts: I have a wood prop, Gil G-30 battery (1.5 years old), Light
> > weight starter from Van's, One-month old annual inspection showed
> > compression at 75, 76, 77, and 78/80. What else?....
> >
> > What could it be? Could starter performance degrade due to the heat
> under
> > the cowls? All comments/opinions are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Anh
> > N985VU
> > Maryland
> Anh,
>
> The other replies I've seen to your post could each cause or at least
> contribute to your problem, but in my opinion, your guess is the most
> likely. I have the same problem with my -4. It's had both the old stock
> Lyc starter and a Mark Landoll (automotive type) geared starter. While
> it's possible that we both have bad engine grounds, I've checked mine &
> it seems fine.
>
> Heat causes resistance in a wire to rise, and a starter motor is
> basically a big coil of wire.
>
> If you fly the plane, land, shut down immediately, then attempt a
> restart within a minute or 2, will it crank ok? Then if it sits 10 - 15
> minutes it barely turns over, and 30 to 40 minutes later (without
> recharging the battery) it will turn over ok again? These are my
> symptoms. My belief is that cooling airflow keeps the starter cool while
> flying; when you shut down it begins to absorb heat from the engine
> without being able to shed the heat due the tight cowl, and after 30 -
> 40 minutes everything has cooled & the starter's resistance has dropped
> to a normal level.
>
> Good luck with yours; I've learned to live with mine. BTW, a fairly
> fresh battery helps, and $20 garden tractor batteries work just as well
> as $100 a/c batteries. They don't leak any worse doing pos G acro,
> either.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy aileron, rigging , heavy wing |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Leaking Master Cylinder |
Upon first application of hydraulic fluid to my brake system one of my
Cleveland 10-30 master cylinders leaked. I installed new seals but it still
leaks just as much. Any ideas?
Dave Beizer
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Longmont CP. RV's |
I met a real nice couple who had finished their RV-6 last year (white with
purple trim) at the Longmont airport while I was waiting to get some
tailwheel time.
I have forgotten their names. Does anyone know who they are? They are based
at Longmont.
Are their any other RV's at Longmont?
Thanks
John Danielson
Casper WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6(A) engine controls |
> Hi all,
>
> I have a quick question for those who installed your engine controls below the
instrument panel in a horizontal bracket.
>
> What thickness material did you use, and was it sufficiently stiff?
I used the piece that Van's originally specified. The one that goes from the bottom
of the panel to the fuel selector mount. I think
it is .040". I cut this and used AN3-x bolts/nutplates to mount it to the bottom
of the panel. Is is stiff enough? NO. Without the
vertical brace for the controls, as in the plans, the center of the panel becomes
very flimsy. My bird is a slider so I installed
another angle from the bottom of the panel, to the sub panel, to the firewall and
attached it to the same location a the upper roll
bar angle.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ 11.4 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Probe/Pitot Tube Installation (long) |
> Are there any ex-Navy/Marine/Air Force fighter jocks on the list who
> would care to comment on their experiences flying the vane-type AOA, and
> what the margin of error in those systems was? Did you find it to be
> dead-accurate in all configurations, at all speeds, at all G's, at every
> percentage of AOA? Or was there any way of you even knowing if there
> was a certain amount of system or installation error?
HI Guys (VERY LONG),
Here I go again opening my big mouth. As most of you know by know, I ended
my Air Force career as an instructor pilot in the F-4G. The AOA probe on
the F-4 was not a vane but a cone shaped object which had one or more slits
in it. However, I think that it doesn't matter as the slits alined with the
airflow just like a vane would.
For final approach, we flew "on speed" or 19.2 units (NOTE NOT AN ANGLE). I
think there was a conversion factor but who cared. For each landing, we
calculated the approach speed based on the configuration, i.e., no flap, 1/2
flaps, full flaps plus 2 knots for each 1000 pounds of fuel or stores. We
would then crosscheck the AOA as we slowed to the approach speed. If they
agreed, I then stopped looking at the airspeed indicator and just used the
AOA lights which were mounted high enough to be in the field of view while
looking through the windscreeen. We also had a tone in the headset which
came on above 15 units which helped too. My best guess is that in 3000
hours that I never had a time when they didn't agree. By this I mean, I
have had airspeed indicator failures and AOA failures but not both at the
same time. So I think the error was much smaller than 15 percent. A 15
percent error of 155 knots basic speed would be about 23 knots. Just a WAG
(Wild Ass Guess), but I feel a 1 to 2 percent error would be normal in the
land pattern.
As for the higher G loadings, I just have to guess that the F-4 AOA system
worked there too. One of the things that was nice about the F-4 was that it
talked to you, if you paid attention. As you started to go above 15 units,
there was a very slight vibration as the airflow started to seperate from
the wing. As you got to 19.2, which was on speed for manuvering too, the
seperation increased until there was a gentle wing rock which gave a enough
warning to stop pulling on the pole. As AOA increased, the wing rock would
continue until direction control was almost impossible to maintain. If you
pulled any more, then control was lost. The delta wing doesn't really stall
like a straight wing does. Once control was lost, the plane had a mind of
its own and you were just along for the ride. However, if you reacted
before it started to spin, recovery was effected by going to 3 to 8 units of
AOA. This prevented the plane from stalling by going to ZERO G's. At zero
G, the F-4 wing doesn't not generate lift, NO LIFT - NO STALL - NO SPIN. I
have ended up with the nose pointed almost straight up while the airspeed
needle was flopping around below the first number on the dial - 80 knots.
And by following procedures, I got the plane flying again, however, the
backseaters were normally yelling four letter words about me and my flying
ability. At some point, the nose would end up going downhill and the
airspeed would quickly increase to above 200 knots where we were flying
again. As a side note, once a flat spin developed, ejection was the only
option left.(Another long story) :-)
I believe that the F-4 used units because the system was setup to operate
with the gear down as well as up. The gear effected the airflow around the
plane and effect the way the cone moved. Plus, that way, 19.2 was always
the "On Speed" AOA.
So I don't care what the AOA system "reads" as long as it does it the same
each time. I happen to have picked the PSS Sport AOA system for my plane.
Several months ago, Brian Lloyd reported to the list that this system worked
at the higher G's as well. As I wanted to do aerobatics, I liked this
feature. While other systems may provide the same info, they had not
reported that they could.
When I fly this summer (I HOPE, I HOPE, I HOPE), one of the things I want to
find out is if my plane will talk to me like the F-4 did. There is nothing
like being able to tell by the seat of our pants, what your plane is up to.
I have read several reports where pilots state that the plane warns them
before the stall but I have seen several where the pilots reported no clues
before the stall. In both cases, it would be wise to find out what your
plane has to say about stalls.
Anyway, please stop by Apple Valley, CA and I will talk your ears off about
flying and tell lies about being a Fighter Pilot.
Tom Gummo
flying by summer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: FuNnY... |
Well let me take a hit here or two. You know you
apologized for this being sent right? Why? Yes some
have a point that this may not be the place for this
but I would never apologize for or to anyone for
myself being a Christian on days that end in y I
believe that God has a place in all our lives be it in
church or working on the rv. So come on guys give the
guy a break or flame me for my belief your choice.
Either way God bless you
Glenn
--- Emrath wrote:
>
>
>
> > > >Funny how simple it is for people to trash God
> and
> > > >then wonder why the world's going to hell.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Funny how we believe what the newspapers say,
> but
> > > >question what the Bible says.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Funny how everyone wants to go to heaven
> provided
> > > >they do not have to believe, think, say, or do
> anything
> > > >the Bible says.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Or is it scary?
> > > >Funny how someone can say "I believe in God"
> but still
> > > >follow Satan (who, by the way, also "believes"
> in God).
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Funny how you can send a thousand 'jokes'
> through
> > > >e-mail and they spread like wildfire, but when
> you start
> > > >sending messages regarding the Lord, people
> think twice
> > > >about sharing.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Funny how the lewd, crude, vulgar and obscene
> pass
> > > >freely through cyberspace, but the public
> discussion of
> > > >Jesus is suppressed in the school and
> workplace.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >FUNNY, ISN'T IT?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Funny how someone can be so fired up for Christ
> on
> > > >Sunday, but be an invisible Christian the rest
> of the week.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Are you laughing?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Funny how when you go to forward this message,
> > > >you will not sent it to many on your address
> list because
> > > >you're not sure what they believe, or what they
> will
> > > >think of you for sending it to them.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Funny how I can be more worried about what
> other
> > > >people think of me than what God thinks of me.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Are you thinking?
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Probe/Pitot Tube Installation (long) |
>
>One of the oft-repeated criticisms I see about the LRI is that it is not
>a vane-type or "true" AOA device. If the definition of a "true" AOA
>system is that it be the protruding vane type system as used on military
>jets, then it seems to me that you couldn't properly call the Propretary
>Software Systems device a "true" AOA system, either.
>
>There are some questions that come to mind. First of all, do we know
>for sure that a vane-type system is inherently more accurate? Just
>because it measures so-called "true" AOA, does that make it inherently
>better?
>
>One of the topics in the newsletter was evaluating the accuracy of your
>installed AOA system. This was done using a linear analysis in which
>multiple observed IAS readings were compared to IAS that was computed by
>the AOA device.
This is an interesting test from an academic perspective, but I'm not
sure what relevance it has in the real world.
>Are there any ex-Navy/Marine/Air Force fighter jocks on the list who
>would care to comment on their experiences flying the vane-type AOA, and
>what the margin of error in those systems was? Did you find it to be
>dead-accurate in all configurations, at all speeds, at all G's, at every
>percentage of AOA? Or was there any way of you even knowing if there
>was a certain amount of system or installation error?
I'm not an ex-Navy/Marine/Air Force fighter jock, but I have used
vane-type AOA systems on many aircraft. The ones I flew appeared to
accurately give the desired approach speed at different weights (as
compared to the Flight Manual data), and they accurately showed how
close you were to the stall at all g-loadings (as evidenced by the
AOA indication when the aircraft stalled).
There are a lot of different types of ways that AOA type systems
could be useful. Some systems are good for some of these things, but
not others.
1. Approach speed - some units can give you an accurate approach
speed, no matter what the weight is. Some units will only do this at
one flap setting, others have inputs of flap angle and can do this at
all flap settings.
2. Best angle of glide speed - some units can help you go to the
angle of attack that gives the best glide, no matter what the weight.
This will be affected by flap angle - see above.
3. Best angle of climb speed - similar to above.
4. Stall warning at 1g- they can tell you (either visually or with an
aural warning) that you are close to the stall. The angle of attack
at stall may be affected by flap angle, so a flap input may be useful
here, although a unit without a flap input could be set up to give
accurate stall warning at one flap setting, and early stall warning
at other flap settings. Even if systems will give you a visual stall
warning, I wouldn't really consider it useful unless there was also
an aural stall warning (or stick shaker). Most stall happen because
the pilot is not paying attention to the airspeed. If he is not
paying attention to the airspeed, he will may miss a visual stall
warning too.
5. Stall warning at higher g loads - this can be useful if you do a
lot of hard manoeuvring, and your aircraft has poor natural stall
warning. Most vane type systems will do this. Some non-vane type
systems will do this (Brian Lloyd did testing with the PSS system and
confirmed that it worked up to 4.5 g, the highest g level that he
tested). Some will not.
You need to decide which of the above functions you want your AOA
system to do. Your needs will depend on the type of flying you do,
whether your aircraft has good natural stall warning or not, your
individual preferences, etc.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | O-ring for engine driven fuel pump |
Hey Listers,
The engine-driven fuel pump on my Lycoming O-320 has a brass fitting for the
fuel in and another for the fuel out. There is an O-ring on each fitting.
Do any of you know the designation for the O-ring on the engine-driven fuel
pump?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF (presently trying to puzzle out how to draw fuel pressure off the
fuel pump/carburetor connection)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Start Problem |
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
I should stay out of this since i am fairly ignorant on the subject; however
I solved my (very similar) start problems by replacing my two year old
concorde with a sealed garden tractor battery of the same size, and cleaning
all the connections.
Given all the options for trouble shooting, the cheapest and quickest first
step may be to spend $25.95 on a batt and see if it works. Mine spins
really fast now at all temps. The K mart battery is the same dimensions and
weight as the concorde 25 so the weight and balance is very close.
Unfortunatley the plus and minus posts on the batt are reversed! sigh
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
----------
>From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Start Problem
>Date: Wed, Mar 1, 2000, 19:42
>
>
>Good luck with yours; I've learned to live with mine. BTW, a fairly
>fresh battery helps, and $20 garden tractor batteries work just as well
>as $100 a/c batteries. They don't leak any worse doing pos G acro,
>either.
>
>Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ALT Field Fuse |
Thanks for the tech. update. One reason I used Aeroelectric's devices &
schematics was due to Bobs' willingness to add background and reason(s) to his
his printed ideas. Part of my building therapy is the learning (re-learning) of
things.....Now.....where in my under voltage module ??.........Just leaning on
ya....How is the progress on the module doing ?? Can I use a over-voltage
module-adjusted to trigger at 12 volts-----to pick a LED -- to warn of
lo-voltage ???
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com on 03/01/2000 07:25:43 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: ALT Field Fuse
>
>
>A fuseable link is a fuse (piece of wire) burried in the wire
bundle........how
>would this be any better than the fuse that blew ???
>
Fusible links are used in cases where the need to protect
the system is an extremely rare event. In the case cited,
there is a need to extend a bus structure from a fuseblock
remotely mounted from the panel to a 5A circuit breaker located
on the panel. The breaker is the device EXPECTED to react
to both downstream faults in wiring -and- trips of the
ov module that produce an artificial fault that opens the
breaker.
Our original concept used one of the fuseblock's feedpoints
with a 15A fuse in it to extend a leadwire to the 5A breaker
on the panel. The problem was that depending on the style
and brand of breaker, the fuse might open before the breaker
does . . .
Without putting controls on the breaker, it was an operationally
better design to use the fusible link . . . very reliable compared
to any kind of fuse/fuseholder combo yet provides the necessary
weak-link to protect a short length of small gage wire
that extends the bus up to the breaker.
We'll use fusible links in a few other places like ammeter shunt
leads to the instrument panel, e-bus alternate feed paths, single
always hot feeds like a hobbs meter, clock or perhaps a single
electronic ignition (if you have more than two always hot feeds
then a small fuse block for a battery bus is more appropriate).
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat Placement... |
Bill,
Nothing wrong with the carb heat knob on the quadrant idea but don't
reverse the movement. Conventional practice is to have forward movement
to the "Full Power" position. That means open throttle, mixture rich,
carb heat off and prop fine if used.
I would change the knobs though. Start whittling (Boy Scouts pays off)
or buy some aftermarket knobs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 03/01/00 |
I have been living with an engine starting problem
I have no opinion on exactly how to fix your problem. I do, however, know
how I eliminated my hot start problems on my RV-4. My symptoms were
identical to what you describe. Maybe you already know this simple trick...
immediately open the oil dipstick access door when you shutdown. The only
times I had problems were when I forgot...DOH!
Vince in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)gci.net> |
| Subject: | Goodbye to a great list. |
Hello people,
I am going to leave the list for a while. There are to things I don't enjoy
talking about or want to hear about when I am trying to have fun....yes I
enjoy the list and have fun here and working on my HRII. But, when the list
starts talking about religious beliefs....I'm gone.
If anyone needs my 2 cents on a problem please feel free to write..... Also
please drop me a line when the religious talk has stopped.
***Bryan E. Files***
A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Fat City Aircraft
Palmer, Alaska
mailto:BFiles(at)gci.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Goodbye to a great list. |
> I am going to leave the list for a while. There are to things I don't
enjoy
> talking about or want to hear about when I am trying to have fun....yes I
> enjoy the list and have fun here and working on my HRII. But, when the
list
> starts talking about religious beliefs....I'm gone.
> If anyone needs my 2 cents on a problem please feel free to write.....
Also
> please drop me a line when the religious talk has stopped.
> ***Bryan E. Files***
> A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
Folks,
I'm afraid this issue has drawn me to the same conclusion. Marty (the
original poster) did not send the message intentionally, and did publicly
explain and apologize (thanks Marty!). What distresses me are the follow-up
comments I received both on and off list actually supporting this sort of
thing. My tolerance for folks shoving any religious agenda at me is zero,
not to mention it being totally out of place in this venue.
Look at Bryan's credentials... you have lost yet another valuable list
participant. Also gone are Scott McDaniels, Mark Fredericks, Scott Brown,
and Bryan Lloyd (I'm sure there are more I'm forgetting)... all due to
irresponsible and inappropriate use of the list.
Good bye,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 03/01/00 |
| From: | <psmith(at)marin.org> |
Chris:
I'm installing this option right now on my QB & it's going OK so far. I
drilled the pedal/tubes for the rivet holes & have sent them out for powder
coating in the matching color to the rest of the interior. When they come
back I'll slip on the snap bushings & rivet the rod ends on last.
If you have a QB or a finished airplane, it can be tricky to drill the
second hole in the idler brackets, because of the lack of space at the foot
of the landing gear towers. One hole is already drilled for you, and you
match drill the second hole. My angle drill attachment wouldn't fit in the
space available, so I took a #12 angle drill bit (very short one) and put it
in the hole and twiddled it with my fingers. This marked the center spot for
drilling. Then I removed the bracket & progressively drilled it out to #12.
I found that you have to file the brackets down somewhat to obtain a snug
fit, and because of the slight inaccuracy of marking the drilling spot, I
had to enlarge the two drilled holes to #11. Now everything fits nicely.
For information on a rivet hole conflict with this kit, I'll refer you to
Chuck's page at:
http://www.cruzers.com/~chuckwn/
Good luck,
Phil, 80691
> Has anyone installed the rear seat rudder pedal option, if so was
> installation very difficult. Any comments about this option?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott D. Morgan" <sdmorgan(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Goodbye to a great list. |
God Bless you!
We hope to see you back.
I pray God will watch over you while your away!
----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan E. Files <bfiles(at)gci.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 8:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: Goodbye to a great list.
>
> Hello people,
>
> I am going to leave the list for a while. There are to things I don't
enjoy
> talking about or want to hear about when I am trying to have fun....yes I
> enjoy the list and have fun here and working on my HRII. But, when the
list
> starts talking about religious beliefs....I'm gone.
> If anyone needs my 2 cents on a problem please feel free to write.....
Also
> please drop me a line when the religious talk has stopped.
> ***Bryan E. Files***
> A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
> Fat City Aircraft
> Palmer, Alaska
> mailto:BFiles(at)gci.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking Master Cylinder |
Dave : Check the Clutch Piston Bore for any pits or roughness as this will
cause new seals not to expand against the bore and keep leaking.
If roughness is discovered a small Brake Hone run through the
bore will usually correct the problem.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 1:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Leaking Master Cylinder
>
> Upon first application of hydraulic fluid to my brake system one of my
> Cleveland 10-30 master cylinders leaked. I installed new seals but it
still
> leaks just as much. Any ideas?
>
> Dave Beizer
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 builder's tip; fuselage. |
One of the last items on the fuselage is drilling and riveting on the rear
top skin. To ensure that the rear canopy frame bow lines up with the rear
seat fuselage bulkhead, wait until your finishing kit arrives with the
canopy frame before you drill the rear top skin to the fuselage. Rion
Bourgeois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Goodbye to a great list. |
Amen!
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Bryan E. Files" <bfiles(at)gci.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 05:44:23 -0900
>
>Hello people,
>
>I am going to leave the list for a while. There are to things I don't enjoy
>talking about or want to hear about when I am trying to have fun....yes I
>enjoy the list and have fun here and working on my HRII. But, when the list
>starts talking about religious beliefs....I'm gone.
>If anyone needs my 2 cents on a problem please feel free to write..... Also
>please drop me a line when the religious talk has stopped.
>***Bryan E. Files***
>A&P, IA, FAA Safety Counselor
>Fat City Aircraft
>Palmer, Alaska
>mailto:BFiles(at)gci.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: FuNnY... |
>
>Well let me take a hit here or two. You know you
>apologized for this being sent right? Why? Yes some
>have a point that this may not be the place for this
>but I would never apologize for or to anyone for
>myself being a Christian on days that end in y I
>believe that God has a place in all our lives be it in
>church or working on the rv. So come on guys give the
>guy a break or flame me for my belief your choice.
>Either way God bless you
>
>Glenn
>
Glenn -
A big AMEN to your comments. I didn't join this list to recieve a religious
input but I sure will not complain about someone who acknowledges his/her
blessings and talent to a Supreme Being. I am ever thankfull for the
opportunity I have to learn more each day about this wonderful world of
aviation. I thank Van for the super aircraft he has allowed all of us to
build through his efforts.
Again ,I thank you Glenn for having the conviction to stand up for your
beliefs. More of us ought to.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 builder's tip; fuselage. |
Along the same line....Your rear seat pan and rear seat must fit the recess that
the bulkhead creates. The Rear seat and the canopy cross over tube determine
the angle and setback (rear seat upright-tilt) and where to position the
bulkhead and where to trim the top skin. Obviously, go with the plans but rough
fit the seat & canopy to ensure proper clearances. Another variation is a
Rocket or HR11 rear turtle deck option for the rv-4. Looks real sharp......wish
I thought of this option before I cut & riveted metal....oh well...
rion(at)worldnet.att.net on 03/02/2000 02:07:10 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 builder's tip; fuselage.
One of the last items on the fuselage is drilling and riveting on the rear
top skin. To ensure that the rear canopy frame bow lines up with the rear
seat fuselage bulkhead, wait until your finishing kit arrives with the
canopy frame before you drill the rear top skin to the fuselage. Rion
Bourgeois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Ok, now I've gone and done it |
I have now sent the check for my RV-4 empennage and wings, as well as the
check for the tool kits (those I don't already have that is). Oh man, what
have I started........ . I think I need a
beer, man I just emptied a bunch of my bank account.
Stefan, looks like I'm just a bit ahead of you now.....better get a move on.
:)
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Aft baggage area |
I see what you mean. It seems there's a cut out in the skin.
Does this mean that there's a little less strenght ?
If it is what it seems, does Van approve of this ?
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sandra Adams <sadams(at)pingobingo.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Start Problem |
Batteries: I went to K-Mart this morn, found only the Exide -300 garden
tractor battery, same size as the Concorde RG-25. It is available both
standard and with reversed terminals at $25.95, however it is not a
sealed recombinant gas type. Anybody know of a less expensive equal to
the Concorde that Van's sells? I am looking at Electric Bob's note on
the subject. Bob Adams, -6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ok, now I've gone and done it |
You only live once, and with the stress of raising a family and stress at
work, don't you think you need a little therapy. Congratulations for taking
the plunge.
Mike Rawls ( wings )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ok, now I've gone and done it |
You think you emptied your bank account a bunch now, just wait. It will cost
you more, but the expense is well worth it. Start saving. turn off lights
.share bath water. cut out the cokes and beer.never eat out until the project
is finished, unless aniversy. You will make it and be glad you did. 21 hrs.
Terry Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sandra Adams <sadams(at)pingobingo.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Start Problem |
Batteries: I should have said that the K-Mart tractor battery I found
was similar in size to the RG-25; not the same size. Apology. Bob Adams
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Engine starting problem |
Listers;
On autos, that type of a starting problem is also indicative of blow- by
on the rings. The cylinder walls get too hot and after you stop, it
turns over very hard. After cooling, it's ok.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
Anybody ever had any problem with JB Weld on aluminum? I was going to use
it on a mistake. (not structural)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leif Butler" <lb767(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | electric vs manual elevator trim |
I am having a difficult time deciding whether to order my RV-6 tail with the
electric or manual trim and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
Leif Butler
getting ready to begin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities RV Forum |
Fellow Listers:
The 6th Annual Twin Cities RV Forum is a month away. The date is Sat. April
1 in Red Wing, MN. Guest speakers include Bill Benedict from Van's, Geo
Orndorff, Larry Vetterman and others. Product info displays (including the
new PowerSport rotary engine, MT Props, RC Avionics, AOA angle of attack
instrumentation, and more), door prizes, and lots of RVs on display.
Special "day-of-show" discounts from A/C Spruce, Wick's, Cleaveland Tool and
Avery Tool. We will also be running the Twin Cities RV Air Race. Last year
we hosted 12 RVs smoking around our 100 nm closed course.
Evening banquet at the St. James Hotel in Red Wing (a block of rooms has
been reserved plus there are other hotels are in town). For more details
see our website at http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/rvforum.html.
Question? Let me know.
Doug
MN Wing
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | f/pump w/bendix injector |
Is the elec aux fuel pump required with the bendix injector?
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | engine controls question-results |
Fellow Listers (whatever your faith) ;-)
Thanks to all the folks who responded to the question about the thickness of a
horizontal engine control bracket.
I've tabulated the results and have no firm answers. Not enough data points. (1000
people on the list and I only get 6 answers? Hummm).
.040 thick:
2 said it was fine
1 said it was OK, but a brace would help
1 said it was not sufficiently stiff and needed to be braced.
.063 thick:
1 said it was not sufficiently stiff and needed to be braced.
.125 thick:
1 said it was fine
So....there you have it. I've included the responses below, (names were withheld
to protect the innocent.
Thanks again,
Laird RV-6 22923 finishing up
-------------------------
I used a piece of left over angle which came with the kit. I think it was 2"
by 2" by 1/8". I trimmed it so the top flange mated with the bottom flange
on the instrument panel. I think its 12" long. I thought I would need to add
a reinforcing piece to the sub panel, but it turned out it was stiff enough
and wasn't required.
-------------------------
I used the piece that Van's originally specified. The one that goes from the bottom
of the panel to the fuel selector mount. I think
it is .040". I cut this and used AN3-x bolts/nutplates to mount it to the bottom
of the panel. Is is stiff enough? NO. Without the
vertical brace for the controls, as in the plans, the center of the panel becomes
very flimsy. My bird is a slider so I installed
another angle from the bottom of the panel, to the sub panel, to the firewall and
attached it to the same location a the upper roll
bar angle.
--------------------------
I ordered the electric flaps option. Because of that, the channel used
for additional support in the center of the cross member that supports
the seat backs was an extra piece. Not sure how thick it is (.040 - Laird) but,
it was about the right size. It worked out just fine. I might suggest a small
brace from the bottom of that to something a bit more solid; but, I
haven't done that to mine, yet. Seems to be OK, as is. Oh, yeah. I
also shortened my sticks about two inches to keep from cracking my
knuckles.
---------------------------
Laird, as others noted, the channel intended for the controls worked
great for me too. The fore and aft rigidity with the throttle/mixture
controls is fine...if you push down on the control knobs when they are
extended, there is vertical movement of the knobs. I do not do pushups
on them so I have left them as is.
---------------------------
Mounted engine controls beneath panel on my 6A (tipup) on Z-channel of 0.063 60601T6.
I required braces from Z-channel to sub-panel to keep it from bending
in too much when controls are exercised.
---------------------------
I have not installed them (throttle & mixture) in my RV 6 yet, but I have
started the panel and the controls (throt & mixture) will be installed in a
channel that is going under the panel. It is made of .040 aluminum. It runs
from side to side under the panel and hangs on the canopy deck aluminum. It
is two inches from top to bottom and the flanges are .750 inches deep. This
allow me room to install all switches and wiring in the channel.
With the U shape to the channel, .040 is plenty thick enough. My panel will
be in three sections. The left section will have flight instruments and be
removable with 4 or six screws. It will sit on the U channel. The center
section is the radio stack (a little right of center). and the right section
will have engine and other instruments and be removable the same way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Congratulations. |
Bill,
Congratulations on taking the plunge. You will not regret it. The RV
aircraft is one of the few if any that actually appreciates in value. You
will not loose money on it if you ever have to sell it. The friends and
comaraderie you will make during the building process is worth the price
itself. The satisfaction you will get in building this airplane is
indescribable. When it is finished and sitting on the ramp you will look at
it and hardly believe you built it with your two hands and that it is
actually yours. I still get a lump in my throat when I watch an RV take off
or do a fly past, and I have to remind myself that "Hey, I have one of those
too ".
One word of advise, Don't forget the loving spouse, it won't work without
her help. Some flowers, dinner out and something special she wants or
enjoys must be considered. If you can get her to bang a few rivits, hold a
few parts or involve her in some way, it will help her feel this is her
project too. This may not work for all spouses but it did with mine, but
then I consider myself a lucky guy.
After 38 years of putting up with me, I have two loves, but unfortunately
the RV6 takes second in this case
Good luck, have fun, enjoy the building and the friends, you have made an
excellent choice.
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C. ( temp 45 and snow is going fast)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelvin Rempel" <krempel(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for tools & empennage kit for RV-6 |
Hey Guys,
I'm looking to buy an empennage kit for an RV-6 from someone who has
lost interest in building. I'm also looking for tools to build an RV. If
anyone knows of anyone wanting to sell their empennage kit (preferably with
no work done to it) or their tools please e-mail.
Thanks.
Kelvin Rempel
krempel(at)telusplanet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Goodbye to a great list. |
Hello,
I try to limit my comments to strictly technical issues. So....
I use a email Program called Eudora Pro for my email. It has this
wonderful feature called filtering (Other programs have the same feature) .
With a filter you can tag any incoming email message and route it either to
a preferred mailbox or the trash based on sender and or content.
I could easily make a filter that sends religious content to either the
preferred folder or the trash (which one I would chose is my
business). That way when you opened your RVlist mail box you would not see
offensive(to you) material.
Naturally I assume that whatever I write is pure gold and goes to the
preferred! :))
My email filters are currently set up to do some of the following:
....Any content specifically related to the RV8 is marked 'red' and given a
special label.
....Any Sender marked Van's gets highlighted with a special label and sent
to a special mailbox.
....Messages from Scott McDaniel or other Van's personnel is highlited,
marked, sent to a special mailbox which automatically opens.
....All messages with RV-List get sent to a special mailbox after other
filters have been applied to it.
.....And yes, there are people and topics that I choose not to give
audience too.
There always has and will always be material on the list deemed by one and
or all inappropriate. It is the thorn in the side of free speech.
Your leaving won't do squat to change it. So...
get an email program with filters and stay on the list... I think you'll be
glad you did!
Respectfully,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Right Wing Tank and fuselage jig
Moscow, ID USA
At 3/2/00 , you wrote:
>
>Hello people,
>
>I am going to leave the list for a while. ....But, when the list
>starts talking about religious beliefs....I'm gone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: f/pump w/bendix injector |
With fuel injection you will not only need the aux pump, you will need a high
pressure one. I used the AirFlow Performance boost pump with there fuel
filter unit. If you decide to use a gas collator (I do not have one) it will
need to be a high pressure unit.
Rob Hickman
RV-4 IO-360
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking Master Cylinder |
RV-List message posted by: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
>
> Upon first application of hydraulic fluid to my brake system one of my
> Cleveland 10-30 master cylinders leaked. I installed new seals but it
still
> leaks just as much. Any ideas?
>
> Dave Beizer
> RV-6A
>
> >>
Dave-
As long as you have the Cleveland 10-30 master cylinders apart would you mind
measuring the outside diameter and thickness of all 'O'-rings and post such
info to the list. I'm trying to get a complete listing of all the 'O'-rings
required for the various systems on my plane so that I can procure them in
Viton for future replacement of the common buna-n ones.
thx
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: f/pump w/bendix injector |
You will need a high pressure electric pump. As many have recommended,
the Airflow Performance is a top choice. You will be hard pressed to
find a more economical choice. I looked into building my own unit with a
high pressure auto pump and associated plumbing (check valve, manifold,
regulator and fittings), but it would have cost as much or more than the
Airflow without the proven record.
George Meketa
RV-8QB fuselage (finally received all my instruments)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:RV Rubber Stamps (Ready to Order) |
Listers
I now have the Order form on my web site with all the info, pricing and
layouts ect. All you have to do is go to the RV Stamp Page and print the form
mail it with a check and in a few days you will have your stamp. Sorry about
the delay but have had some trouble getting the form to work. Thanks to Marty
for the drawings they look great!! and to Paul Besing for the help on the
page.
My Site: http://members.aol.com/panelcut
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual elevator trim |
I originally ordered my 6QB with the manual trim. I came to dislike the look
of the cable in front and between the seats. I have since ordered and
installed the electric trim. It was very easy to install and I'm glad I did
it. I'll be returning my cable to Van's.
Ken Cantrell
Lodi Ca -6 finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Leif Butler <lb767(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 3:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: electric vs manual elevator trim
>
> I am having a difficult time deciding whether to order my RV-6 tail with
the
> electric or manual trim and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
>
> Leif Butler
> getting ready to begin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual elevator trim |
In a message dated 3/3/00 1:27:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net writes:
<< I originally ordered my 6QB with the manual trim. I came to dislike the
look
of the cable in front and between the seats. I have since ordered and
installed the electric trim. It was very easy to install and I'm glad I did
it. I'll be returning my cable to Van's. >>
I did the same. Ordered manual because the manual works fine and will not
have a runaway servo when you are blowing by your friends with the high speed
runway pass. I worked very hard to make it as comfortable to work under the
panel as possible, by moving the fuel valve handle lower, eliminating the
throttle vertical console, small battery above rudder pedals on firewall, and
painting the underside of the forward top skin white. It may not be
comfortable, but sure is a lot less miserable than the stock arrangement.
Bernie Kerr, 6A not long as it used to be( sometime this summer), SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | airflow performance # |
In a message dated 3/2/2000 11:11:13 PM Central Standard Time, acgm(at)gvtc.com
writes:
<< Airflow Performance >>
Hey George,
Could you please give me the number and all the items that I need to order to
make this work with my Bendix injector.
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AN5814 pitot wiring? |
Well, I finally figured out my pitot plumbing, thanks to some help from the
list, but I still have to get the heating element wired. My question, as a
soldering newbie, is how to split the wire (which I haven't yet obtained)
between the terminals? I'm assuming (always a bad idea, I know) that I won't
need two individual wires, with one going to each contact. I'm sure I'm
missing something here...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone have any info on fitting a McCauley Black Mac prop to an -8?
I know that STC's exist for retrofitting Black Mac props to certified
aircraft with the engine I'll be using (IO-360), but I'm concerned that none
of those airplanes have the same speed range (particularly on the upper end)
as the -8.
I'm planning on speaking to McCauley next month at SnF, but thought I'd try
and get a jump on the info.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: f/pump w/bendix injector |
Carey,
We have an IO-360 and used the Airflow Performance boost pump - very well
made and easy to install. We also went with the Andair gascolator - Very
well made & well worth the money - has a very good internal filter.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV8A (installing wiring)
Niantic, CT
>From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: f/pump w/bendix injector
>Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 19:32:43 EST
>
>
>Is the elec aux fuel pump required with the bendix injector?
>Carey Mills
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Black Mac prop? |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
There is a local builder here in Nashville putting a three bladed McCauley
on a 6A with IO-360. He got both from Mod Works. I am not sure if it is a
black mac.
It is Bob Baggett - E-mail him at accuracy(at)earthlink.net
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Black Mac prop?
>Date: Fri, Mar 3, 2000, 7:10 AM
>
>
> Does anyone have any info on fitting a McCauley Black Mac prop to an -8?
>
> I know that STC's exist for retrofitting Black Mac props to certified
> aircraft with the engine I'll be using (IO-360), but I'm concerned that none
> of those airplanes have the same speed range (particularly on the upper end)
> as the -8.
>
> I'm planning on speaking to McCauley next month at SnF, but thought I'd try
> and get a jump on the info.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for tools & empennage kit for RV-6 |
Try e_BAY online auction site. No Kidding.....there is a -6 tail kit there. Try
the (this) archives for the exact hit or walk thru e-BAY to find it. The posting
in the archieve was about two weeks ago.....
krempel(at)telusplanet.net on 03/02/2000 09:27:33 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Looking for tools & empennage kit for RV-6
Hey Guys,
I'm looking to buy an empennage kit for an RV-6 from someone who has
lost interest in building. I'm also looking for tools to build an RV. If
anyone knows of anyone wanting to sell their empennage kit (preferably with
no work done to it) or their tools please e-mail.
Thanks.
Kelvin Rempel
krempel(at)telusplanet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual elevator trim |
It don't matter (at this point). Order the kit..there is plenty of time for the
final decision of this matter. I converted over from manual to electric 5 years
later........(for what its worth)
lb767(at)bellsouth.net on 03/02/2000 06:53:59 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: electric vs manual elevator trim
I am having a difficult time deciding whether to order my RV-6 tail with the
electric or manual trim and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
Leif Butler
getting ready to begin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Black Mac prop? |
In a message dated 3/3/2000 8:39:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com writes:
> There is a local builder here in Nashville putting a three bladed McCauley
> on a 6A with IO-360. He got both from Mod Works. I am not sure if it is a
> black mac.
>
> It is Bob Baggett - E-mail him at accuracy(at)earthlink.net
> --
> Shelby Smith
> shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
> RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
> N95EB - reserved
Hi Shelby,
Thanks for the reference. I sent Bob an email and am awaiting his reply.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual elevator trim |
> I am having a difficult time deciding whether to order my RV-6 tail
> with the
> electric or manual trim and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
Electric.
Do it.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN5814 pitot wiring? |
>
>Well, I finally figured out my pitot plumbing, thanks to some help from the
>list, but I still have to get the heating element wired. My question, as a
>soldering newbie, is how to split the wire (which I haven't yet obtained)
>between the terminals? I'm assuming (always a bad idea, I know) that I
won't
>need two individual wires, with one going to each contact. I'm sure I'm
>missing something here...
The heater in the pitot tube is like any other electrical
device in the airplane, it needs two power pathways completed
to make if function. One is from the airplane's power distribution
system off the bus through a breaker or fuse, then through a
switch, and finally enough wire to connect to one of the
heater's terminals. The other pathway is a ground return.
In a metal airplane, this is quite often a short connection
to the airframe. In a plastic airplane, it's a long wire
that comes all the way back into the cabin to a centralized
ground system.
Sometimes a device uses its own enclosure as a 'ground' such
that when it's mounted in a metal airplane, it get's grounded
by virtue of simply being attached. Light fixtures will
do this, electric fuel pumps often have a single power wire
with a case ground. Your pitot heater has two terminals
so you have to provide for ground to one of the terminals;
power to the other.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernard Banche" <bb8212(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual elevator trim |
I asked a friend who ha built a 6A the same question. He said the manual
trim worked well , although the electric looks like it may install easier.
He told me that the tail removes easier with the electric trim, which may be
a factor for painting. If you order with the empennage you also get a break
on the price.
B.Banche
Just ordered empennage for 8A (with electric trim)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: electric vs manual elevator trim
>
>
> > I am having a difficult time deciding whether to order my RV-6 tail
> > with the
> > electric or manual trim and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
>
> Electric.
> Do it.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine controls question-results |
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 7:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: engine controls question-results
>
>Thanks to all the folks who responded to the question about the thickness
of a horizontal engine control bracket.
>
>
>So....there you have it. I've included the responses below, (names were
withheld to protect the innocent.
>
>Thanks again,
>Laird RV-6 22923 finishing up
>
>
>I have not installed them (throttle & mixture) in my RV 6 yet, ....
>
>With the U shape to the channel, .040 is plenty thick enough. My panel will
>be in three sections. The left section will have flight instruments and be
>removable with 4 or six screws. It will sit on the U channel. The center
>section is the radio stack (a little right of center). and the right
section
>will have engine and other instruments and be removable the same way.
>
When I read this, I was amazed -- it exactly describes my layout! Moreover,
I had concluded before installing the controls, that it was rigid enough.
Wrong.
After the controls were installed and I could test things out I realized
that the geometry required more bracing.
When I exerted about three pounds of force (as in firewalling the throttle)
I could feel the lower Z-channel bending. I asked my helper what he
thought -- "Too flimsy!"
The problem is compounded by the angle of the extended (by about 5 inches
including knobs) controls: When seated with arm extended, the natural wrist
vector in pushing forward causes the controls to exert a bending moment on
their mount -- it is not easy to push the controls in perfectly along their
axes.
By the way, thickness has little to do with the problem. The bending is
caused by a long moment arm and it is the bottom flange of the panel that is
deforming under the bending force.
You can view my panel layout with controls installed (and tested for look
and feel) at
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/PersykRV6.htm
Thanks Mike, for displaying my project on your outstanding web site!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Probe/Pitot Tube Installation |
Hey guys,
I flew with both the Air Force and the Navy. The Navy AOA gauge was
standard in all Navy birds and was continued in Navy aircraft used by
the USAF (F-4 and A-7.) The gauges read in units, not degrees, and "ON
SPEED" was always at the 3 o'clock position on the gauge. The "ON SPEED"
index equated to Maximum Lift versus Drag or L/D Max, and thus gave you
the optimum approach speed for any weight, configuration, flap setting,
etc. Using the "ON SPEED" index for landing completely did away with the
requirement for weight calculations to obtain landing speeds. Only if
the gauge was inop did you have to calculate an approach speed. The "ON
SPEED" index also gave you the best (minimum) turn radius and best turn
rate at any given speed - regardless of weight, configuration, flap
setting, etc. (However, above a certain speed - usually in the vicinity
of 450 knots - you would reach the "G" limit of the airplane before you
reached the on speed angle of attack.) If you exceeded the "ON SPEED"
index you were flirting with a stall. Less than "ON SPEED" and you were
not turning at the optimum performance of the aircraft. The AOA gauge
was a great aid in a dogfight.
Associated with the AOA gauge, the Navy also used an INDEXER on the side
of the windscreen to show AOA. The indexer was a circle with a chevron
below it and an inverted chevron above it. When on speed, the circle was
lit. If faster than on speed, the lower chevron was lit. When fast, but
within a half unit or so of being on speed, both the circle and the
lower chevron were lit - showing "ON SPEED-FAST." A half unit slow would
give you the circle and the inverted chevron showing "ON SPEED-SLOW."
More than a half unit slow gave you the inverted chevron only. The
chevrons indicated the direction to push the stick in order to get to
"ON SPEED." The indexer gave a complete "heads up" carrier landing
capability. You didn't have to scan inside the cockpit for speed or AOA
info. Just watch the deck, and the "Meatball" or glide slope indicator,
and monitor the indexer with peripheral vision. The same indexer lights
were also displayed on the nose gear door for the benefit of the Landing
Safety Officer (LSO) and were colored for quick recognition.
Different airplanes had different AOA sensors. Some had a vane, most had
a cone with two parallel rows of slits in it. In both cases, the sensor
was always mounted on the side of the fuselage well forward of the wing
root. Once you have used the AOA system, it is hard to go back to using
airspeed for approaches and max maneuvering.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More prop questions |
I just spoke with a guy at McCauley who pointed out something interesting
about the Hartzell prop Vans has listed in their catalog for the IO-360
(HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4). According to McCauley's tech guy, this is not an
inverted prop and is not recommended for aerobatics. He says that Hartzell
makes a counterweighted prop that is approved for aerobatics
(HC-C2YK-1BF/FC7666A-4). McCauley doesn't make any aerobatic props, so there
doesn't appear to be any conflict concerns with the info he gave me, but I
wanted to get the opinion of the list.
Also, has anyone used the full 76" version of the Hartzell prop on an -8?
There shouldn't be any clearance problems on the -8, so why go with the
shorter prop? The longer prop may be slightly noiser (if imperceptibly so),
but the greater disc area should provide more thrust, no?
Additionally, are there any regulations (probably not for an experimental) or
concerns (probably regarding balance) involved in painting a propeller? How
does one go about this? I want a black prop to go with my paint scheme; grey
is just not going to do it.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for tools & empennage kit for RV-6 |
I've got a 6/6A kit that has been started. I got this with a wing kit and do
not need it. The vertical Stab. and rudder are finished. The horizontal stab
has the skeleton done and skin drilled and dimpled. One elevator has the
skeleton finished and the skin was drilled, but the previous owner ordered
new horiz. stab and elevator skins (still in crate). there are misc. small
parts missing but I would say it's 98% complete. Would like to get 400.00 for
all. I'm located in north central CA (Modesto area).
Thanks, Dave
Flap city
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
What is a inverted prop ? Are they reffering to the oil pickup for the prop
governer, or does the governer need this aerobatic capability (or both) or is
the prop especially designed to perform aerobatics ( how does the prop know if
it is upsidedown) ??
Kbalch1(at)aol.com on 03/03/2000 10:25:58 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: More prop questions
I just spoke with a guy at McCauley who pointed out something interesting
about the Hartzell prop Vans has listed in their catalog for the IO-360
(HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4). According to McCauley's tech guy, this is not an
inverted prop and is not recommended for aerobatics. He says that Hartzell
makes a counterweighted prop that is approved for aerobatics
(HC-C2YK-1BF/FC7666A-4). McCauley doesn't make any aerobatic props, so there
doesn't appear to be any conflict concerns with the info he gave me, but I
wanted to get the opinion of the list.
Also, has anyone used the full 76" version of the Hartzell prop on an -8?
There shouldn't be any clearance problems on the -8, so why go with the
shorter prop? The longer prop may be slightly noiser (if imperceptibly so),
but the greater disc area should provide more thrust, no?
Additionally, are there any regulations (probably not for an experimental) or
concerns (probably regarding balance) involved in painting a propeller? How
does one go about this? I want a black prop to go with my paint scheme; grey
is just not going to do it.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> Anybody ever had any problem with JB Weld on aluminum? I was going
to use it on a mistake. (not structural)
I've used it in several places and I know I'm not the only one. It seems to
be pretty common practice, on non-structural of course.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine controls question-results |
> I've tabulated the results and have no firm answers. Not enough data
points. (1000 people on the list and I only get 6 answers? Hummm).
Okay here's another. I used .063. I think you maybe could go .040 but that
would be minimal. No matter what you use you'll probably want a brace.
Pushing in and out on the bottom of the panel will flex the panel and if its
on a drop-down subpanel its just added leverage.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
GV wrote <<"I'm trying to get a complete listing of all the 'O'-rings
required for the various systems on my plane so that I can procure them in
Viton for future replacement of the common buna-n ones>>."
Gary: I have been thinking of using Viton instead of Buna N rubber seals in
my firewall feedthroughs for the higher temperature resistance. Please post
the source if you have found one. I'm also curious to know why you are
planning to switch all of your "O" rings to Viton. Thanks.
Harry Crosby
-6 Finish kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johnny Johnson <bbds(at)wiktel.com> |
Listers,
Please accept my apology for the ill-chosen comment I made about the phrase
"yanking and banking". I've written off-list to everyone that responded
either here or directly to me... this is to the rest of you that thought I
was out of line but chose to keep your thoughts to yourself. I need to say
to you that I meant no flames to anyone. The phrase does, IMHO, express an
erroneous--dare I say dangerous--idea... but, this is a free country--go
for it!
I was simply trying to convey--quite ineptly, obviously--that you can urge,
you can caress your RV thru most any maneuver you can imagine... you don't
need to yank it around. In the event you feel a powerful urge to yank
something, I suggest you rent a Citabria and wrestle with it for a while...
you'll RUN back to your RV and hug it... !
My humble apologies to all that took offence or felt somehow less
enthusiastic about the future prospect of flying their RV. Don't let an
opinionated old man mess things up for you. :=))
Johnny Johnson
49MM
Love my -3
Sample of comments... sorry, guys:
<<< If an RV can't take some yanking, then I'm ordering the wrong aircraft.
:)
<<< you are a certified old-fart. don't poo poo someone else's dream
here...
<<< [re: Fuddy-duddy] If you weren't one before, you are now...
<<< That would be fuddy-duddy, I am afraid to say
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-ring for engine driven fuel pump |
Hi Steve:
The O-ring you need is a MS 29512-06. On the fuel pressure connection I can
get you a special fitting that comes of the engine driven fuel pump allowing
you to hook up for the fuel pressure. Let me know and I will send you one
and also the o-rings if you like.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B. C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 6:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: O-ring for engine driven fuel pump
>
>Hey Listers,
>
>The engine-driven fuel pump on my Lycoming O-320 has a brass fitting for
the
>fuel in and another for the fuel out. There is an O-ring on each fitting.
>Do any of you know the designation for the O-ring on the engine-driven fuel
>pump?
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>RV-6A FWF (presently trying to puzzle out how to draw fuel pressure off the
>fuel pump/carburetor connection)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
<>
I could not agree more with Randy on this topic. So, it is farewell to the
RV-List for me as well.
Of course, I will remain available for any RV type related discussion to any
builder that would like to e-mail me off list.
Good-bye,
Jon Ross 80094
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
Good ridence!
JRoss10612(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> < I'm afraid this issue has drawn me to the same conclusion. Marty (the
> original poster) did not send the message intentionally, and did publicly
> explain and apologize (thanks Marty!). What distresses me are the follow-up
> comments I received both on and off list actually supporting this sort of
> thing. My tolerance for folks shoving any religious agenda at me is zero,
> not to mention it being totally out of place in this venue.
>
> Look at Bryan's credentials... you have lost yet another valuable list
> participant. Also gone are Scott McDaniels, Mark Fredericks, Scott Brown,
> and Bryan Lloyd (I'm sure there are more I'm forgetting)... all due to
> irresponsible and inappropriate use of the list.
>
> Good bye,
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500>>
>
> I could not agree more with Randy on this topic. So, it is farewell to the
> RV-List for me as well.
>
> Of course, I will remain available for any RV type related discussion to any
> builder that would like to e-mail me off list.
>
> Good-bye,
> Jon Ross 80094
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
In a message dated 3/3/2000 11:52:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
> What is a inverted prop ? Are they reffering to the oil pickup for the prop
> governer, or does the governer need this aerobatic capability (or both) or
> is
> the prop especially designed to perform aerobatics ( how does the prop
know
> if
> it is upsidedown) ??
My sense of what he (the McCauley guy) was trying to impart was that the
'inverted' prop (his word) was counterweighted to better resist the g loads
of aerobatic flight. The counterweighting was the only difference he
mentioned. Nothing was said about the governor or the prop hub.
I do know, however, that Hartzell has dedicated aerobatic props designed to
resist the increased forces produced by aerobatic g loads at the hub. Also,
at least some of those props are optimized to increase upline and 'hang'
time. Those last two particulars don't fit into my mission profile for the
-8 (maybe for the DR-109 that I hope will follow it), but the forces at the
prop hub at aerobatic g loads do concern me.
I'd like to talk to Hartzell about it directly, but I've been unable to bring
up their webpage today. I'll keep trying and let the list know what I find
out.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Easy Navaid installation |
I have posted a new page on my site detailing an installation of the
Navaid servo that appears to be the easiest method yet. The installation
is not yet complete but I will update the page as necessary.
We invite your comments on this installation, especially if you have
used the same technique. If it works as hoped, this may be a very good
option for pilots with flying RV's who wish to upgrade to a Navaid.
Here is the link:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
Thanks in advance,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
I swear by it. I used it to repair a trailing edge break on one of my elevators
and it worked great. Just be sure that your surface is clean and free of oil
and if you can ruff up the area with some 220 paper to insure that the epoxy has
a good surface to adhere to. In my case I used a piece of 032 to patch a crack.
Good stuff!
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ fuse and more fuse...
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/3/2000 11:52:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
>
> > What is a inverted prop ? Are they reffering to the oil pickup for the prop
> > governer, or does the governer need this aerobatic capability (or both) or
> > is
> > the prop especially designed to perform aerobatics ( how does the prop
> know
> > if
> > it is upsidedown) ??
>
> My sense of what he (the McCauley guy) was trying to impart was that the
> 'inverted' prop (his word) was counterweighted to better resist the g loads
> of aerobatic flight. The counterweighting was the only difference he
> mentioned. Nothing was said about the governor or the prop hub.
>
I could be wrong here (happens all the time ;-)), but my understanding of this
is
that in a CS prop intended for acro, you want the prop to move to the coarse (low
RPM) setting by default if the oil pressure drops. The counterweights serve only
to force the blades toward the coarse pitch setting (normally conteracted by the
governor). This reduces the likelihood of an engine overspeed if the oil
pressure drops, as might happen on an inverted downline.
Most CS props on single engine airplanes will go the the fine pitch stop if oil
pressure to the prop is lost while airborne. This in effect makes it a fixed
pitch prop (albeit a severe "climb prop"). This was explained to me as a safety
feature in case of a governor failure--you still have your max climb performance.
In RVs, it seems to me that the counterwieghted prop would be the way to go for
three reasons:
1. see above (acro)
2. I think most RVs would still climb safely, if not well, even with the prop
against the coarse pitch stop.
3. If the engine goes "tango uniform" and oil pressure is lost, glide performance
will be -much- better with the prop in coarse pitch
Anyone with more knowledge/expertise?
James Freeman
RV8QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
This is a shame.
We should not allow a few inappropriate posts or posters destroy what has always
been such an exceptional venue.
I for one will stick by the list, but with my right finger near the delete
button if needed.
Perhaps an alternative to this problem (if the majority of the list agrees) is
to ask Matt to remove any flagrant offenders from our roster. Then maybe we can
get back to building and flying RVs, instead of spending it saying goodbye to
our friends.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
In a message dated 3/3/2000 2:32:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cd005677(at)mindspring.com writes:
> In RVs, it seems to me that the counterwieghted prop would be the way to go
> for
> three reasons:
> 1. see above (acro)
> 2. I think most RVs would still climb safely, if not well, even with the
> prop against the coarse pitch stop.
> 3. If the engine goes "tango uniform" and oil pressure is lost, glide
> performance will be -much- better with the prop in coarse pitch
That all makes sense to me. Does anyone know if Van can or will supply the
counterweighted prop at his OEM prices? Just on principle, I'd hate to have
to pay retail. :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
Ken Balch,
Yes, Hartzell makes a counterweighted Aerobatic prop. It weighs more
and goes into coarse pitch with loss of oil pressure by virtue of the
centrifugal force on the counterweights. Why? In extreme G transients
(with an inverted oil system) or sustained negative G's (without), you
can loose oil pressure to the point that the prop will not govern any
more and goes to its relaxed state.
* If it goes to fine pitch
(non-counterweighted) the engine could overspeed. This is controlled by
pulling back on the throttle.
* If it goes to coarse pitch (counterweighted) the engine will lug but
not overspeed.
So, how do you choose? I want to do fun aero but not competition and
have an inverted oil system for sustained (more than 5 sec.) neg-G.
Also want to go cross country.
* If I have an acro prop and loose the governor or enough oil pressure
to stop moving the prop but not the engine AND I'm close to an airport
(competition / airshow people) then I go land with low RPM.
* If I'm out in the boonies on a X-country and have a non-counterwighted
prop and loose it then I can limp a few more miles with more thrust at
normal RPM's and my new fixed pitch prop.
* If I have a non-counterweighted prop then I have less of a CG problem
and the standard spinner fits.
I chose the standard prop.
Your quest. on the 76" prop. See the previous weeks posts on. Yes its
being used.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
> What is a inverted prop ? Are they reffering to the
> oil pickup for the prop
> governer, or does the governer need this aerobatic
> capability (or both) or is
> the prop especially designed to perform aerobatics (
> how does the prop know if
> it is upsidedown) ??
>
>
> I just spoke with a guy at McCauley who pointed out
> something interesting
> about the Hartzell prop Vans has listed in their
> catalog for the IO-360
> (HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4). According to McCauley's
> tech guy, this is not an
> inverted prop and is not recommended for aerobatics.
> He says that Hartzell
> makes a counterweighted prop that is approved for
> aerobatics
> (HC-C2YK-1BF/FC7666A-4).
Do not know what an inverted prop is. I also would
not listen to McCauley with regard to Hartzell props.
I would not use a Hartzell counterweighted prop on an
RV. There are too many ADs. I could have purchased
one 4 years ago for $1,200 USD. To bring in in
compliance with all ADs would have cost over $4,000.
At that time a new prop from Van was less money. The
counterweighted prop will go to HIGH pitch (LOW RPM)
when you lose oil pressure. This is great for glide
distance but NOT good for aerobatics.
The Compact Hub Hartzell does not have any aerobatic
restrictions unless you purchase the one with the
entended hub. It has a 3.8 G limitation. The Compact
Hub Hartzell will go to LOW pitch (HIGH RPM) when you
lose oil pressure. It is a VERY good brake and will
slow you down in a hurry. Great for botched aerobatic
maneuvers when you are going straight down. If I
point the nose down, I can do 180 KIAS (Vne = 183
KIAS) and get 4,000 FPM decent. This has been test
verified on TWO occasions. It is now reserved for
EMERGENCY use only.
Again, the Hartzell Compact Hub Constant Speed prop
does not have any aerobatic restrictions unless it has
the extended hub. Check the TC that can be found on
the Web. There is a link in the archives that will
show where it is at.
EAA Tech Counselor
FAA A & P
510+ Flight Hours in my RV-6
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Easy Navaid installation |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I have posted a new page on my site detailing an installation of the
>Navaid servo that appears to be the easiest method yet. The installation
>is not yet complete but I will update the page as necessary.
>
>We invite your comments on this installation, especially if you have
>used the same technique. If it works as hoped, this may be a very good
>option for pilots with flying RV's who wish to upgrade to a Navaid.
>
Sam,
I have no problems servo installation method detailed on your page. It
looks like a good system.
I would like to clarify the pitch input problem though. You mention that
you assured Bob that there would not be such a problem but some newcomers
may be led to the conclusion there IS a pitch input problem because it is
mentioned here. I used the Martin Sutter, under the right sight servo
mounting method. This method makes it look like there could be such a
problem because of the angle of the actuating rod, but there is no such
problem in my airplane and I have never heard of that problem in anyone's
airplane.
All that happens is that the airplane holds course, and in smooth air it
holds altitude pretty well too.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Easy Navaid installation |
Sam,
Thanks for taking the time to add this project to your already great web
site! Keep us updated.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
> I have posted a new page on my site detailing an installation of the
> Navaid servo that appears to be the easiest method yet. The installation
> is not yet complete but I will update the page as necessary.
>
> We invite your comments on this installation, especially if you have
> used the same technique. If it works as hoped, this may be a very good
> option for pilots with flying RV's who wish to upgrade to a Navaid.
>
> Here is the link:
>
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
In a message dated 3/3/2000 3:24:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
> I would not use a Hartzell counterweighted prop on an
> RV. There are too many ADs. I could have purchased
> one 4 years ago for $1,200 USD. To bring in in
> compliance with all ADs would have cost over $4,000.
> At that time a new prop from Van was less money. The
> counterweighted prop will go to HIGH pitch (LOW RPM)
> when you lose oil pressure. This is great for glide
> distance but NOT good for aerobatics.
>
> The Compact Hub Hartzell does not have any aerobatic
> restrictions unless you purchase the one with the
> entended hub. It has a 3.8 G limitation. The Compact
> Hub Hartzell will go to LOW pitch (HIGH RPM) when you
> lose oil pressure. It is a VERY good brake and will
> slow you down in a hurry. Great for botched aerobatic
> maneuvers when you are going straight down. If I
> point the nose down, I can do 180 KIAS (Vne = 183
> KIAS) and get 4,000 FPM decent. This has been test
> verified on TWO occasions. It is now reserved for
> EMERGENCY use only.
>
> Again, the Hartzell Compact Hub Constant Speed prop
> does not have any aerobatic restrictions unless it has
> the extended hub. Check the TC that can be found on
> the Web. There is a link in the archives that will
> show where it is at.
>
> EAA Tech Counselor
> FAA A & P
> 510+ Flight Hours in my RV-6
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> Flying So. CA, USA
Hi Gary,
Thanks for a lot of good information. I was totally unaware of the AD
situation with the counterweighted props and, while I would've researched
this area before making a purchase, you've saved me some legwork on that
score.
My main concern with the Compact Hub Hartzell as you described it is with the
3.8G limitation. Based on my non-RV aerobatic experience, I'd consider 3.8G
to be rather limiting. I'm regularly pulling between 4 and 4.5G in the
Decathlon, with occasional excursions to 5. G forces can be well above this
in the Extra, but that is clearly not relevant to RV-style aerobatics. Can
sportsman type aerobatics be comfortably performed in the RV-8 while keeping
the G's under 3.8? Obviously related directly to entry speeds (and reactions
to botched maneuvers), but generally speaking?
I really need to do some aerobatics in an RV. Anyone volunteering to take me
for a ride at SnF next month will be gratefully treated to gas and lunch,
though possibly not in that order. :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Easy Navaid installation |
Got a dumb question regarding control input reversal.......If some folks are
mounting the servo inside the aircraft and others are mounting the servo near
the bell crank and one person ( very cleverly) mounted the servo in the wing
tip......the fact that control input to the bellcrank is comming from two
different directions from from two differenf installers...does there need to be
any input sence reversal in the tip installation ????
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net on 03/03/2000 01:46:51 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Easy Navaid installation
I have posted a new page on my site detailing an installation of the
Navaid servo that appears to be the easiest method yet. The installation
is not yet complete but I will update the page as necessary.
We invite your comments on this installation, especially if you have
used the same technique. If it works as hoped, this may be a very good
option for pilots with flying RV's who wish to upgrade to a Navaid.
Here is the link:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
Thanks in advance,
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
Has anybody seen the need to install speed brakes on an RV? I will start
building a F1 Rocket in June and so lately I spend a lot of time dreaming
about stuff in my office ( not getting much real work done ). I was just
thinking that the Rocket will cruise at about 235, but it has a MAX.
Flaps-Deploy speed of about 100 to 110 mph. It appears that descents from
cruise at 235 could get long and fast without some lift/speed defeating
assistance of some kind. What have you guys seen?
scot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Easy Navaid installation |
Sense reversal will depend on the mechanical orientation of the servo. The
typical underseat installation in an RV is probably going to have it. The
instruction manual clearly points out that you simply reverse the two leads
to the servo motor, and two to a pot and the reversed movement is corrected.
I have just completed an underseat installation of a Navaid in my RV6A. On
initial use I did indeed find lots of cross-coupling to the vertical
controls. BUT that was because my gain was set way too high and the servo
oscillated. The overshoots pushed the control assembly forward, resulting
in a nose down pitch, then the servo tried to get back to neutral, again
overshooting, and pulling the control assembly into a nose up pitch. A
simple reduction (while in flight) of the SPAN control on the indicator
corrected all this and the unit is working like a charm!
RV-6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 3/3/2000 3:24:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> > I would not use a Hartzell counterweighted prop on an
> > RV. There are too many ADs. I could have purchased
> > one 4 years ago for $1,200 USD. To bring in in
> > compliance with all ADs would have cost over $4,000.
> > At that time a new prop from Van was less money. The
> > counterweighted prop will go to HIGH pitch (LOW RPM)
> > when you lose oil pressure. This is great for glide
> > distance but NOT good for aerobatics.
> >
> > The Compact Hub Hartzell does not have any aerobatic
> > restrictions unless you purchase the one with the
> > entended hub. It has a 3.8 G limitation. The Compact
> > Hub Hartzell will go to LOW pitch (HIGH RPM) when you
> > lose oil pressure. It is a VERY good brake and will
> > slow you down in a hurry. Great for botched aerobatic
> > maneuvers when you are going straight down. If I
> > point the nose down, I can do 180 KIAS (Vne = 183
> > KIAS) and get 4,000 FPM decent. This has been test
> > verified on TWO occasions. It is now reserved for
> > EMERGENCY use only.
> >
> > Again, the Hartzell Compact Hub Constant Speed prop
> > does not have any aerobatic restrictions unless it has
> > the extended hub.
> >
> > EAA Tech Counselor
> > FAA A & P
> > 510+ Flight Hours in my RV-6
> >
> > ====
> > Gary A. Sobek
> > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> > Flying So. CA, USA
>
> Hi Gary,
>
> Thanks for a lot of good information. I was totally unaware of the AD
> situation with the counterweighted props and, while I would've researched
> this area before making a purchase, you've saved me some legwork on that
> score.
>
> My main concern with the Compact Hub Hartzell as you described it is with the
> 3.8G limitation. Based on my non-RV aerobatic experience, I'd consider 3.8G
> to be rather limiting. I'm regularly pulling between 4 and 4.5G in the
> Decathlon, with occasional excursions to 5. G forces can be well above this
> in the Extra, but that is clearly not relevant to RV-style aerobatics. Can
> sportsman type aerobatics be comfortably performed in the RV-8 while keeping
> the G's under 3.8? Obviously related directly to entry speeds (and reactions
> to botched maneuvers), but generally speaking?
>
> I really need to do some aerobatics in an RV. Anyone volunteering to take me
> for a ride at SnF next month will be gratefully treated to gas and lunch,
> though possibly not in that order. :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
>
Basically, you don't want to do aerobatics, esp. in an RV with a prop
extension--or your asking for serious crankshaft problems if you
overpull--esp. short-coupled and gyroscopic maneuvers (i.e., Pitts,
Giles, One Design, Extra)--the normally constructed RV is more at home
in broader, sweeping "jet type" maneuvers because you pick up speed REAL
FAST going downhill. In my airplane the minimum turn radius/max.
rate/6g turn is at 137 KIAS. Any faster than this without proper
controlling can and will bend the airplane and/or prop
extension/crankshaft coupling. It is a bear doing aerobatics in the RV,
at times, because it has the slow stall speed along with the highspeed
top end and very little drag.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | RV List concerns |
Fellow RVer's:
I have considered adding this post several times during the past few weeks
and in good conscience can't put it off any longer.
Although I am a two time RV builder and have spent my entire lifetime in
aviation, I joined the RV List while building the second RV because I felt
that I could still learn something that would add to my last RV project.
Also I felt that with my past experience I could possibly contribute
something to the list especially as related to safety and engine handling. I
am not one to say much about my past but have flown more or less
continuously since 1948 and have accumulated some 27000 hrs accident free.
When I first joined the list it was just as I expected it would be, lots of
good info and ideas from builders with far more building experience than I.
We had a factory rep. (Scott McDaniels) looking over our shoulder as well as
a number of long time RVer's and many professional people, some of which we
still have. The list was fairly disciplined and stayed pretty much to a
solid building format as outlined by Matte in his subscription instructions.
There was the odd welcome break as posted by a guy named "Buster". All in
all it gave one a good feeling and made me feel that this RV bunch were a
special group of people and on top of that it was free.
For some reason this started to change some weeks ago and for me reached a
peak with the criticism's of Van's Aircraft. Was hard for me to understand
why one would decide on building an RV then turn around and participate in
this discussion knowing full well he is building what is probably the best
all around aircraft available at about half the price of any comparable kit.
For me one of the biggest problems is the volume of posts to the list and
the time it takes to properly view it.
What concerns me the most is we are blowing a great resource for the current
builders and especially the ones just starting. The RV List is the answer to
those who feel that the building manual is not detailed enough or having
problems with the drawings.
If we would all make a commitment to cleaning the list up and being a bit
more professional I am sure we can get some of those we have lost back. Then
again maybe due to my age I am not in tune and this is not really what the
group wants.
Respectfully,
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
For those who would like to comment of the list please note my E-mail
address change this week to
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
In a message dated 3/3/2000 5:45:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
> Basically, you don't want to do aerobatics, esp. in an RV with a prop
> extension--or your asking for serious crankshaft problems if you
> overpull--esp. short-coupled and gyroscopic maneuvers (i.e., Pitts,
> Giles, One Design, Extra)--the normally constructed RV is more at home
> in broader, sweeping "jet type" maneuvers because you pick up speed REAL
> FAST going downhill. In my airplane the minimum turn radius/max.
> rate/6g turn is at 137 KIAS. Any faster than this without proper
> controlling can and will bend the airplane and/or prop
> extension/crankshaft coupling. It is a bear doing aerobatics in the RV,
> at times, because it has the slow stall speed along with the highspeed
> top end and very little drag.
What entry airspeeds and g loadings do you use for some of the basic
maneuvers? Loop, half Cuban, reverse half Cuban, hammerhead, etc.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Easy Navaid installation |
If you tell Navaid where you intend to mount the servo, they'll configure
the travel in the right direction. They also give you instructions in the
manual on how to reverse the wiring yourself, if need be.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
>
>
> Got a dumb question regarding control input reversal.......If
> some folks are
> mounting the servo inside the aircraft and others are mounting
> the servo near
> the bell crank and one person ( very cleverly) mounted the servo
> in the wing
> tip......the fact that control input to the bellcrank is comming from two
> different directions from from two differenf installers...does
> there need to be
> any input sence reversal in the tip installation ????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Aerotronics Experience |
Just to pass on a note to builders who have not yet purchased their
avionics. I purchased my GPS/COMM, Transponder from Aerotronics. I paid
them to wire a harness for me, and now that it is time to wire all the stuff
in the airplane, I naturally had a few questions for the experts. They are
indeed experts. If you have ever noticed their booth at a fly in and seen
their panels, you know what I mean.
I called to ask to speak with one of their techs who does nothing but wire
experimental panels. Keep in mind that his position is not tech support. I
spent 20 minutes on the phone regarding several issues with my electrical
system. He was very polite, patient, and thorough. He even offered to
provide a diagram what he was talking about and fax it to me. After we
resolved the issues, he was very kind and polite, and made sure that all of
my questions were answered, and told me to be sure and call if I had any
more questions.
These guys are great to work with, and they have a "no haggle" policy when
it comes to pricing. My GPS/COMM was $300 lower than anyone else, and the
price was non-negotiable (which was fine by me). So if you are planning on
Garmin, King, Terra, or whatever, be sure and give Martin (the president) a
call and let him know of the products you are looking for. They will
support you until the cows come home.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 F-806 Question |
Hello Everyone,
I'm preparing the rear spar carry-thru and I'm not sure whether to drill the
3/16" hole in the F806 C, D and E pieces at this time. Drawing 23 (upper left
area) says "AN3-10A Bolt IN ASSY" for that hole. I see no reason not to drill it
now and George's video shows it drilled but I thought I'd make sure there was
not something I'm missing. Just don't know why they would say IN ASSY.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
rv8er(at)concentric.net
RV-8 80081 (Floor Structure)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 3/3/2000 5:45:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
>
> > Basically, you don't want to do aerobatics, esp. in an RV with a prop
> > extension--or your asking for serious crankshaft problems if you
> > overpull--esp. short-coupled and gyroscopic maneuvers (i.e., Pitts,
> > Giles, One Design, Extra)--the normally constructed RV is more at home
> > in broader, sweeping "jet type" maneuvers because you pick up speed REAL
> > FAST going downhill. In my airplane the minimum turn radius/max.
> > rate/6g turn is at 137 KIAS. Any faster than this without proper
> > controlling can and will bend the airplane and/or prop
> > extension/crankshaft coupling.
>
> What entry airspeeds and g loadings do you use for some of the basic
> maneuvers? Loop, half Cuban, reverse half Cuban, hammerhead, etc.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
>
Ken--
Start off with the last chapter in "18 Years of the Aviator" written by
Van and then read The last chapter of the RV Construction Book/Plans set
where Van talks about aerobatics and low-level flying (he says"15 ft off
the the ground!"--I say let's see tree leaves in your pitot tube). Then
find an aero instructor who may or may not want to fly in your plane
(most of them don't fly low hour experimentals, even for big bucks).
My plane is different from the IO-360/RV-8 in that it puts out 325 hp at
2800 and gives 5 lb/hp loading at aerobatic weight--the same as a really
tweaked out Pitts--so I fly differently.
Start out slow and safe and work up to where you are comfortable--if
you're uncomfortable, give the instructor one more call and always
remember you can get parachutes and helmets.
Boyd.
RV's rule unless you're taxing behind a Stearman.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
Scott,
To add to Boyd's remarks: develop a descent ratio as a rule of thumb once
you start flying. My example following is stretching it a bit, but you
should be to determine numbers that work out for your F1. I fly a 737 and
even though it has a flight management computer to compute descents, we use
a 3:1 descent ratio as backup. This means that for every 3 miles traveled at
idle power, the a/c descends 1000 feet, i.e. we need 30 miles to descend
10,000 feet. This also results in a descent rate of 1500-2000 feet per
minute, which might be a bit uncomfortable in your Rocket. Using this
example, at a descent rate of 500 fpm, your ratio rule of thumb might work
out to be 7:1 or 8:1. Flying RV'ers could give you more exact numbers. Hope
this helps.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N4GB (Reserved)
Medina, OH
201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
> Scot Stambaugh wrote:
> >
> >
> > Has anybody seen the need to install speed brakes on an RV? I will
start
> > building a F1 Rocket in June and so lately I spend a lot of time
dreaming
> > about stuff in my office ( not getting much real work done ). I was
just
> > thinking that the Rocket will cruise at about 235, but it has a MAX.
> > Flaps-Deploy speed of about 100 to 110 mph. It appears that descents
from
> > cruise at 235 could get long and fast without some lift/speed defeating
> > assistance of some kind. What have you guys seen?
> >
> > scot
> >
> >
> Scot--
>
> Plan ahead--way ahead. #1
> Most GPS units, including handhelds, give you a descent profile so many
> miles out from the airport. Use it.
> --along this line Lycoming suggests maintaining 15" MAP, is against more
> than a 1,000 f/m descent and a CHT limit of more than 50 degrees/min.
> You can use the whole airplane as an airbrake--if going to fast within
> 10 miles of the numbers, pull your throttle back below that needed for
> level flight, gradually pull the nose up and try to gauge it so that
> you're losing airspeed more than gaining altitude, as you get close to
> 120-130 mph start dropping the nose and adding level flight power. This
> should have you coming into the pattern at 120 mph, on altitude and
> still in the way of the Lear jet.
>
> by the was, I cruise at 240 mph :)
>
> Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie paint question |
Well, as you will hear from many painters (professional and amateur) the
quality of your paint job is more relative to your gun, and the substrate
that you are painting on. Most paints are fine. The better you prep your
project, the better it will come out. With reference to these types of
paints, I have shot enamels and lacquers...didn't like them as much..they
seemed to be pretty unforgiving...the best paint I have shot with as far as
quality, ease of application, and durability is actually an acrylic
urethane. Personally I believe in Sherwin Williams paints, (specifically
Sunfire or Acrylid).
Painting is not a science. It takes just a little practice and quality
materials. Don't skimp on a paint gun. Many have done acceptable paint
jobs with a Harbour Freight special, but you would not believe the
difference when you get a quality gun from Sharpe, Devilbiss, or Binks.
Obviously the better job that comes out of the gun, the less you have to do
afterwards like wetsanding and buffing. You can see my painting section
where I talk about this topic at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/paint.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV rides-inspiration (Long) |
After a very short take off roll (even
>with two, well lets say not tiny guys) the wings provided the lift that we
>oh so long for.
Make me puke...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie paint question |
>You can see my painting section
>where I talk about this topic at:
>
>http://members.home.net/rv8er/paint.htm
>
>Or call me at 1-800-RV PAINT
>
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
>http://members.home.net/rv8er
>Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Jim
Does that mean it "works great" sitting in the shop while
waiting to fly or does it mean it " works great" after hundreds
of flight hours?
Tom
RV3 978TM
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> I swear by it. I used it to repair a trailing edge break on one of my elevators
> and it worked great. Just be sure that your surface is clean and free of oil
> and if you can ruff up the area with some 220 paper to insure that the epoxy
has
> a good surface to adhere to. In my case I used a piece of 032 to patch a crack.
>
> Good stuff!
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ fuse and more fuse...
> N89JA ( reserved )
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
> Thanks for a lot of good information. I was totally
> unaware of the AD
> situation with the counterweighted props and, while
> I would've researched
> this area before making a purchase, you've saved me
> some legwork on that
> score.
>
> My main concern with the Compact Hub Hartzell as you
> described it is with the
> 3.8G limitation. Based on my non-RV aerobatic
> experience, I'd consider 3.8G
> to be rather limiting. I'm regularly pulling
> between 4 and 4.5G in the
> Decathlon, with occasional excursions to 5. G
> forces can be well above this
> in the Extra, but that is clearly not relevant to
> RV-style aerobatics. Can
> sportsman type aerobatics be comfortably performed
> in the RV-8 while keeping
> the G's under 3.8? Obviously related directly to
> entry speeds (and reactions
> to botched maneuvers), but generally speaking?
>
> I really need to do some aerobatics in an RV.
> Anyone volunteering to take me
> for a ride at SnF next month will be gratefully
> treated to gas and lunch,
> though possibly not in that order. :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
Ken:
The counterweighted Hartzell props that I refur to are
the Steel Hub ones. I am not familiar with any other
ones. I do not know Hartzell's entire line but I do
not believe that they make them (steel hub) anymore.
http://www.hartzellprop.com/index2.htm
It is the HC-F2YL hub that has the 3.8 G limitation.
This would have been used with the OLD cowl that Van
use to supply. This prop is listed in Van's 1998
Catalog on page 4. The HC-C2YL that does not have the
restriction. See the TCDS at:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/regulatory_and_guidance_library/rgMakeModel.nsf/c098618b86dfb29d85256792005877df/049af0a4847bb68b852567120043adb2/$FILE/p-920.pdf
You may need to paste the multiple lines together.
You can do aerobatics with the extended hub prop if
you do not pull a lot of Gs. I know an RV-3 and RV-4
that both have extended hubs and do light aerobatics.
They just do not have as large a margin for errors.
The Constant Speed props that Van sells are the best
ones suited for the RV. You may find something better
but it will be a LOT more money.
I do not have inverted oil and only do mild sport
aerobatics. The most I have seen is 5.5 G. I do 4 G
turns frequently. The last one was with Paul Rosales'
wife as a passenger while I was in a formation turn
following Dwain Harris. :-) Walt Hastings was also in
the flight and had a passenger. There are six witness
to this 4 G climbing formation turn.
Hope the links help bring more info. Like I said, I
am not into serious aerobatics in an RV. The O-320
with HC-2YL-1BF/F7663A-4 is a great combinaiton in my
RV-6. It does everything better than Van says it
will.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
The Constant Speed Prop is a great speed brake.
When cruising, plan a let down of 500 FPM. You know
the pattern altitude of the airport you are going to,
and you know your altitude. It takes two minutes for
every thousand feet. Your GPS will tell you time to
station. Reduce RPM by 200 and keep manifold pressure
constant. (100 RPM and 1" also works maintaining MP
while going down) Maintaining manifold pressure means
that you keep pulling the throttle back. You will be
going down hill at 500 FPM. From 10,000 to sea level,
it takes 20 minutes. You are going over the ground at
cruise of three miles a minutes. You are about 60
miles out.
Hope this helps.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
I have a feeling we're being trolled. The IAC email exploder got seriously
fouled up from one or more of these malcontents. Don't let them push any of
you away. The delete key is a powerful thing. USE it, ignore the nonsense,
and they'll go away in time.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
59 hours
Thanks to Paul, Blake, and the droves of RV builders and fans at the Cactus
Fly-In!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV6(6A) kit & tools wanted |
I'm looking for a RV6A kit and building tools that are relatively close to
Philadelphia Pennsylvania.
I'll consider a RV6 if we can figure out how to convert to a 6A.
Phlogiston spar only.
A couple of folks had written me earlier with kit offers but I deleted the
emails.
Contact me privately.
thanks,
Lucky Macy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 F-806 Question |
>
>I'm preparing the rear spar carry-thru and I'm not sure whether to drill the
>3/16" hole in the F806 C, D and E pieces at this time. Drawing 23 (upper left
>area) says "AN3-10A Bolt IN ASSY" for that hole. I see no reason not
>to drill it
>now and George's video shows it drilled but I thought I'd make sure there was
>not something I'm missing. Just don't know why they would say IN ASSY.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Greg Puckett
Greg,
For what its worth, I drilled the holes at the stage you are at now.
I haven't finished the plane yet, but I can't see any reason to wait.
I've drilled the skins to the fuselage skeleton, and am now busy
deburring and dimpling a gazillion holes.
I also haven't figured out what the IN ASSY meant, except maybe it is
a hint that the hole location is defined by the prepunched hole in
the F-806B, so you have to cleco the F-806C & D to it before drilling.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Viton "O" rings |
www.mcmaster.com Great company. Super fast delivery.
> Gary: I have been thinking of using Viton instead of Buna N rubber
> seals in my firewall feedthroughs for the higher temperature resistance.
> Please post the source if you have found one. I'm also curious to know
> why you are planning to switch all of your "O" rings to Viton. Thanks.
Bob Newman
Warrenton, VA
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV List concerns |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Eustace,
Once again, you have taken the time to contribute constructively to the
list. I know when I see your name on a post it is a message worth reading.
I can almost put a standing instruction in my e-mail program to copy your
post to my good RV-list message file.
So, first, thanks for that.
Secondly, I have been on this list pretty much consistently since the early
nineties and was on AOL and Compuserve discussing RVs before that. There
have been so many that have made and expended effort to help others. It was
almost like duty as a member of the group. I know for some it increasingly
was a burden. Scott McDaniels, Jerry Springer(sp), Mark Frederick, you, and
lots others were/are a tremendous encouragement to me. It is a shame there
is a protocal that would not be appropriate in any other venue but behind
the anonymity of a computer screen sometimes takes over. I remember
responding with profanity to someone who posted an offensive gesture to the
list. I doubt I would have responded in person that way, but boom with a tap
of a button blam. Anyway, I don't know what the answer is to addressing
this, but I hope the keepers of the flame will not be discouraged.
Third, I just tuned out to the criticism of Van's. There were, I'm sure, all
sorts of emotions on that one, and I doubt anyone was going to change
there/someone elses mind on that. My experience is Van does an exellent job.
I can't point to one instance where my trust in him has be compromised. It
is not a charity either, if he doesn't/couldn't make a profit we wouldn't
have RV-8s, 9s, and whatever. How about the improvements he doesn't have to
offer, but is conciencious and has the financial resources to make
available. Bottom line it's more than a fair deal, if anything I've gotten
more than I paid for.
Finally, I am not going to let the guys/gals who have a chip on their
shoulder detract from the list or my participation, I just move on to
another subject more commensurate with what we are all here to enjoy. I
hope you'll stay on and maybe encourage others to too. It's a burden I am
sure, but I am very appreciative of your and many others efforts. The
occasional stray note isn't going result in a tyrade on my part, in fact who
cares. There are guys that advertise - that's okay, different perspectives
- the more the better. I guess there will always be good and not so good.
The hardest to tolerate is the personal afronts, but even those have a way
of working themselves out. No one likes a bully. Anyway that my .02 worth.
Hope you stay aboard.
BTY, still trying to keep my options open for floats.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
Scot,
I had only one ride in a HR-II with John Harmon. Several things happened so
fast that I missed them. The takeoff was one. John added power and I
looked over his right shoulder to find the airspeed indicator and didn't see
it. I looked over his left shoulder and didn't see it. I looked out the
window and the world had turned 30 to 40 degrees as we climbed out. The
other was the landing pattern.
Several miles form the airport we were still above the pattern altitude and
John dived to downwind. I guess that we were doing 200 plus when he pushed
the prop full forward and we just stopped. O.K., we just slowed down.
Not trying to talk for John but his normal one word e-mails sometimes don't
have enough info. With a CS prop the plane slows down enough without adding
the weight and effort to install a speedbrake.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 1:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Speed Brakes
>
> Has anybody seen the need to install speed brakes on an RV? I will start
> building a F1 Rocket in June and so lately I spend a lot of time dreaming
> about stuff in my office ( not getting much real work done ). I was just
> thinking that the Rocket will cruise at about 235, but it has a MAX.
> Flaps-Deploy speed of about 100 to 110 mph. It appears that descents from
> cruise at 235 could get long and fast without some lift/speed defeating
> assistance of some kind. What have you guys seen?
>
> scot
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 F-806 Question |
Greg
Drill it when you are drilling the 815A and F815B ribs to the F806 REAR
SPAR ATTACH BULKHEAD.
The "IN ASSY" note means when you are assembling the SEAT RIB ASSEMBLY.
I'm a little bit ahead
of you now- finishing up the jig with all the bulkheads finished, and this
has worked fine for me.
Sam Ray
>
>I'm preparing the rear spar carry-thru and I'm not sure whether to drill
the
>3/16" hole in the F806 C, D and E pieces at this time. Drawing 23 (upper
left
>area) says "AN3-10A Bolt IN ASSY" for that hole. I see no reason not
>to drill it
>now and George's video shows it drilled but I thought I'd make sure there
was
>not something I'm missing. Just don't know why they would say IN ASSY.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Greg Puckett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Viton "O" rings |
In a message dated 3/3/00 10:04:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I have been thinking of using Viton instead of Buna N rubber seals in
my firewall feedthroughs for the higher temperature resistance. Please post
the source if you have found one. I'm also curious to know why you are
planning to switch all of your "O" rings to Viton. >>
I get brown Viton 'O'-rings from Ace Seal in Santa Clara, CA. I have seen
problems with the original buna-n seals on my brake calipers. I developed a
leak on the right side that appears to have been caused by the seal taking a
flat set, probably due to heat soak. Buna-n is only good for 107 degrees C
and Viton is good for 232 degrees C in fluid service. Further, I might want
to try DOT 5 fluid in the future.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 275 hrs TTAE since 2/98)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Viton "O" rings |
McMaster also has those hard to find 6-40 taps that someone was looking
for to mount their pitot tube.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Visiting Tampa area - like to visit, exchange ideas etc. |
I am visiting the Tampa area from now through 3/10.
I would enjoy visiting an RV project and trading ideas regarding building
tips, methods, options, etc.
I am building an RV6A, IO360, Constant Speed Prop and sliding canopy. I am
currently finishing the wiring. My project can be seen at:-
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
I can be reached at bhaan(at)easystreet.com or my mobile phone 503-720-1132.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
Using the constant speed prop for a speed brake is extremely hard on the engine.
The thrust bearing is NOT designed to take loading in this direction. You also
unload the pistons/rings and that can lead to cylinder wall and piston scuffing.
Bruce
Glasair III with speed brakes.
Gummos wrote:
>
>
> Several miles form the airport we were still above the pattern altitude and
> John dived to downwind. I guess that we were doing 200 plus when he pushed
> the prop full forward and we just stopped. O.K., we just slowed down.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
>With a CS prop the plane slows down enough without adding
> the weight and effort to install a speedbrake.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
How do RV's do in slips? Anyone have some numbers to share?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Turn & Bank Coordinator |
Lister's,
I bought a T&B from Century Instruments of Wichita KS. The unit has a 3 pin
connector, MS3106A10S-3S. I don't have a wiring diagram. Does anyone know
what pin is + & -. Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks.....Mark
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Ok, the kit is on the way which means time for primer considerations. I've
pretty much settled on Azko or is it Akzo.....in any event...my previous
painting experience with conventional guns (I have quite a bit) tells me I
don't want to do that in my garage on any kind of regular basis. So I am
looking at the HVLP units to save mess and materials. Anyone have
experience with the versions sold by harbor freight? I'm looking at the $69
gravity fed as well as the $120 gun with seperate 2 quart cup. Any advice
from those in the know would be greatly appreciated whether it is
recommending a different model or praising the ones I'm considering.
Thanks RV'ers
Bill Shook
RV-4 gearing up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Splitting wheel rims -- how? |
Hi,
I thought I'd put my tyres and wheels together this evening, but I can't
separate the rim halves.
According to the Orndorff video, they should just come apart after I've
removed the 3 bolts. But they are *very* firmly stuck together. I did
try to use a screwdriver to force them apart, but couldn't get it into
the joint between the halves. Even a knife wouldn't do it.
Is there some trick to this? Or have I just not forced it hard enough?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP advice? |
For priming those are fine..If I were to paint my plane myself, I would
probably buy one for that purpose exactly, and use my Sharpe for the paint.
Many builders have had great success with them..the primers will mess up the
gun pretty bad if you don't clean them very well after each use...Sherwin
Williams sells a gallon of spray gun cleaner that will clean the pipes of
everything....
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 10:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: HVLP advice?
>
> Ok, the kit is on the way which means time for primer considerations.
I've
> pretty much settled on Azko or is it Akzo.....in any event...my previous
> painting experience with conventional guns (I have quite a bit) tells me I
> don't want to do that in my garage on any kind of regular basis. So I am
> looking at the HVLP units to save mess and materials. Anyone have
> experience with the versions sold by harbor freight? I'm looking at the
$69
> gravity fed as well as the $120 gun with seperate 2 quart cup. Any advice
> from those in the know would be greatly appreciated whether it is
> recommending a different model or praising the ones I'm considering.
>
> Thanks RV'ers
>
> Bill Shook
> RV-4 gearing up
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Splitting wheel rims -- how? |
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I thought I'd put my tyres and wheels together this evening, but I can't
> separate the rim halves.
>
> According to the Orndorff video, they should just come apart after I've
> removed the 3 bolts. But they are *very* firmly stuck together. I did
> try to use a screwdriver to force them apart, but couldn't get it into
> the joint between the halves. Even a knife wouldn't do it.
First off we never use screw drivers to pry things apart on airplanes. What
we use is hammers. A soft face hammer (rubber mallet) tapped on the inside
of one wheel half while holding the other should convince the halves to
part.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ 12.8 hr.
>
>
> Is there some trick to this? Or have I just not forced it hard enough?
>
> Frank.
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP advice? |
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> Ok, the kit is on the way which means time for primer considerations. I've
> pretty much settled on Azko or is it Akzo.....in any event...my previous
> painting experience with conventional guns (I have quite a bit) tells me I
> don't want to do that in my garage on any kind of regular basis. So I am
> looking at the HVLP units to save mess and materials. Anyone have
> experience with the versions sold by harbor freight? I'm looking at the $69
> gravity fed as well as the $120 gun with seperate 2 quart cup. Any advice
> from those in the know would be greatly appreciated whether it is
> recommending a different model or praising the ones I'm considering.
>
Bill the HF gun will work just fine for spraying your primer. One trick for
spraying the smaller pieces is to get some small mesh (1/4-1/2 inch) screen and
place this over an open trash can. The parts wont blow away and the trash can
catches 90% of the overspray.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV List concerns |
In a message dated 3/3/00 3:08:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ebowhay(at)jetstream.net writes:
<< Then
again maybe due to my age I am not in tune and this is not really what the
group wants. >>
Eustace,
My take is that 'due to your age' and also how you took the journey you
know a lot about airplanes and you have also become very wise. I have been
trying to compose a post on the same subject, but you just said it better
than I could. It's a priviledge to have you in this group.
Regards,
Dale Wotring
RV6A Working on panel
Vancouver, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Turn & Bank Coordinator |
In a message dated 3/3/00 9:52:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
steffco1(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< I bought a T&B from Century Instruments of Wichita KS. The unit has a 3 pin
connector, MS3106A10S-3S. I don't have a wiring diagram. Does anyone know
what pin is + & -. Any advise would be appreciated. >>
They should be marked but if memory serves pin 1(A) is +12V and pin 2 (B) is
ground. Pin 3 (C) is unused.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | O-ring for engine driven fuel pump |
Eustace,
It turns out that Van's has a 90 degree fitting that is tapped for a 1/8 NPT
fitting to go to the fuel pressure transducer. I ordered one this week.
I'll drop you a line if it doesn't work. Thanks for the spec on the O-ring.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF
-----Original Message-----The O-ring you need is a MS
29512-06. On the fuel pressure connection I can
get you a special fitting that comes of the engine driven
fuel pump allowing
you to hook up for the fuel pressure. Let me know and I will
send you one
and also the o-rings if you like.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Splitting wheel rims -- how? |
I tapped them with a soft plastic-face mallet. You don't want to be too
aggressive. Just light taps around the edge where the bead sets and they
will pop apart.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF
-----Original Message-----I thought I'd put my tyres and
wheels together this evening, but I can't
separate the rim halves.
According to the Orndorff video, they should just come apart
after I've
removed the 3 bolts. But they are *very* firmly stuck
together. I did
try to use a screwdriver to force them apart, but couldn't
get it into
the joint between the halves. Even a knife wouldn't do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slips was Speed Brakes |
>
>
>
> >With a CS prop the plane slows down enough without
> adding
> > the weight and effort to install a speedbrake.
> >
> > Tom Gummo
> > Apple Valley, CA
>
>
> How do RV's do in slips? Anyone have some numbers to
> share?
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN 6A
Slips GREAT. Unfortunately I do not have any numbers.
Rudder pedal is heavy and I have done slips at
airspeeds as high as 170 Kts and as low as 65 Kts.
The airplane can be turned (changed course) in cruise
with rudder only but the rudders are heavier than a
C172 or Citabria.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP advice? |
We use DeVilbiss GTI guns in work with a lot of problems.
The most common one is fluctuation in the paintflow when the cup is 3/4
empty. I prefer to use the old fashion JGA with the pressure set at 60PSI,
this supplies with enough air for my airfed mask and the gun.
I then adjust the presure on the gun with the air regulator, so that I still
get a maximum fan-width. I paint B737X rudderskins with this set up on a
Daily basis. (2 a day keeps the manager at bay).
If you do insist on HVLP, make sure you use a big diameter airline.
This enables you to carry Volume instead of pressure.
In response to Paul Bessing ; I believe that the make of the Gun has got
influence but not to that extent. Sort of "it's the photographer that takes
the picture". The only thing that will make a good sprayer is regular
practise.
For the Beginners : stick an old newspaper up the wall and spray it.
Keep the Gun at 90 angle with your object at all times, the distance should
be 6 - 8 " and your overlap 50%. The overlap is important, this will stop
the "stripy effect".
Keep practising untill you have no more runs. If you speed up your passes
you'll get a thinner coat on your object as well as less runs.
Several thin coats are better than 1 thick coat. It saves paint, runs and
rubbing down. Also, if you get big surface imperfections you let the paint
dry and rework before you continue.
Hope this helps, if anybody has any further questions email me direct :
marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com
Also have a look at the English RV-site about the paintservice I offer to
RV-builders
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
Spraypainter at Bombardier Aerospace
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> >With a CS prop the plane slows down enough without adding
> > the weight and effort to install a speedbrake.
> >
> > Tom Gummo
> > Apple Valley, CA
>
> How do RV's do in slips? Anyone have some numbers to share?
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN 6A
Alex,
With a c/s prop, you probably don't need to worry about it, but with
fixed pitch, it's a different story. My -4 slips without any bad habits,
but it's so clean that it doesn't get very impressive results compared
to 'traditional' a/c like a Luscombe. The one thing I really wish for is
broader control of sink rate without having to fly close to stall while
close to the ground. Has anyone flown a -4 or -6 with both the original
tail & the larger -8 tail? Does the new tail have more rudder area?
Does it help with sink rate control?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
I find your comment about the thrust bearing amusing. After all the same
engine, same thrust bearing is used in several pusher type installations.
As for the pistons, etc. Since it is a high vacuum, low manifold pressure
situation, more oil will be sucked by the valve guides, reducing wear.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Speed Brakes
>
>Using the constant speed prop for a speed brake is extremely hard on the
engine.
>The thrust bearing is NOT designed to take loading in this direction. You
also
>unload the pistons/rings and that can lead to cylinder wall and piston
scuffing.
>
>Bruce
>Glasair III with speed brakes.
>
>Gummos wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Several miles form the airport we were still above the pattern altitude
and
>> John dived to downwind. I guess that we were doing 200 plus when he
pushed
>> the prop full forward and we just stopped. O.K., we just slowed down.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More prop questions |
Gary,
Thanks for the link to the TCDS. It appears that the prop from Van (C2YK)
does not have the 3.8G limit. I'll probably wind up going with this prop.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie paint question |
A quick drying epoxy. The quicker a paint is tackfree the easier it is to
apply. In case it dries to quick you can you some thinners.
Use the same supplier(make) of thinners as paint. Never mix different makes
together.
Marcel de Ruiter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP advice? |
Bill Shook wrote:
> Anyone have
> experience with the versions sold by harbor freight? I'm looking at the $69
> gravity fed as well as the $120 gun with seperate 2 quart cup. Any advice
> from those in the know would be greatly appreciated whether it is
> recommending a different model or praising the ones I'm considering.
>
Bill-
I'm certainly no expert, but I recently bought the cheapie HF gravity fed HVLP
gun. my only previous experience is with a cheap "conventional" gun painting a
few trailers and lawn furniture, etc. I really like the HVLP gun and am
getting a great finish with the two part Sherwin-Williams epoxy primer. There
is almost no overspray. My next project is to paint the interior with Sherwin
Williams acrylic--I had them match Van's powder-coated parts for me. If I get
a good finish on the removable parts first, I'll kep using the cheap gun.
I'll echo the advice about chicken wire--painting on scrap plywood (from the
crates) on the ground was a miserable idea b/c of dust and bugs. I'm using the
crate scraps to build a box supporting a 3x5 piece of chicken wire, with a fan
exhausting the fumes outside my hangar. Hopefully this will solve the problem
of lingering fumes which chase me out of the hangar for 30 minutes every time I
spray something
James Freeman
RV8Q fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turn & Bank Coordinator |
>
>In a message dated 3/3/00 9:52:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>steffco1(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
><< I bought a T&B from Century Instruments of Wichita KS. The unit has a 3
pin
> connector, MS3106A10S-3S. I don't have a wiring diagram. Does anyone know
> what pin is + & -. Any advise would be appreciated. >>
>
>They should be marked but if memory serves pin 1(A) is +12V and pin 2 (B) is
>ground. Pin 3 (C) is unused.
My recollection agrees with Gary . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
Glad I could give you a chuckle Cy. Talk to some of the acro guys about their
engine wear and problems caused by piston unloading.
WRT the thrust bearing, constant aft loading on a pusher is different than the
cyclic fore/aft condition encountered by using the prop as a speed brake. And
the loads would be much higher.
Bruce
Cy Galley wrote:
>
> I find your comment about the thrust bearing amusing. After all the same
> engine, same thrust bearing is used in several pusher type installations.
>
> As for the pistons, etc. Since it is a high vacuum, low manifold pressure
> situation, more oil will be sucked by the valve guides, reducing wear.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 11:13 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Speed Brakes
>
> >
> >Using the constant speed prop for a speed brake is extremely hard on the
> engine.
> >The thrust bearing is NOT designed to take loading in this direction. You
> also
> >unload the pistons/rings and that can lead to cylinder wall and piston
> scuffing.
> >
> >Bruce
> >Glasair III with speed brakes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mel Jordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb for sale |
For Sale, brand new carb and fuel pump off new Lyc O-360-A1A. Test run at
the factory two hours in November, in box since. Carb is a Precision
Airmotive MA-4-5. Pump is Lyc. LW15472. $975 for both, shipping
included. If interested, please contact me off list.
Mel Jordan
Tucson, AZ
520 575 0738
tmjordan(at)flash.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Splitting wheel rims -- how? |
Frank,
Sometimes the rim halves do get stuck. Keep tapping them with a rubber
mallet to loosen them. Do not use a metal object to pry them apart - it can
damage them. As with many other tasks in building the RVs, patience and
persistance are needed.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
I just got my engine back from the shop and started to check the fit of the
other components that have to fit in behind it on the firewall. I'm having
some difficulty nailing down a good position for the gascolator and oil
cooler.
Does anyone know of a good web source with images of an RV-4 engine
installation or have any suggestions/descriptions of things that have worked
well for them.
Any help will be appriciated.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse done
Engine being fit to mount
PPERRYRV(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Engine Installation Questions |
I just got my engine back from the shop and started to check the fit of the
other components that have to fit in behind it on the firewall. I'm having
some difficulty nailing down a good position for the gascolator and oil
cooler.
Does anyone know of a good web source with images of an RV-4 engine
installation or have any suggestions/descriptions of things that have worked
well for them.
Any help will be appriciated.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse done
Engine being fit to mount
PPERRYRV(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP advice? |
Bill, Gary is right about the wire mesh to set the parts on. Until I
figured this out the parts would blow all over the place even with the HVLP
gun. BTW, I've got the $69 gun from HF and it works just great. It uses a
quarter of the paint that I had been using with a conventional type suction
gun.
I've got some pictures of a small paint booth and a table that I built with
the mesh screen.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/paint_booth.htm
Mike & Beth Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 01:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP advice?
>
>
> Bill Shook wrote:
>
> >
> > Ok, the kit is on the way which means time for primer considerations.
I've
> > pretty much settled on Azko or is it Akzo.....in any event...my previous
> > painting experience with conventional guns (I have quite a bit) tells me
I
> > don't want to do that in my garage on any kind of regular basis. So I
am
> > looking at the HVLP units to save mess and materials. Anyone have
> > experience with the versions sold by harbor freight? I'm looking at the
$69
> > gravity fed as well as the $120 gun with seperate 2 quart cup. Any
advice
> > from those in the know would be greatly appreciated whether it is
> > recommending a different model or praising the ones I'm considering.
> >
>
> Bill the HF gun will work just fine for spraying your primer. One trick
for
> spraying the smaller pieces is to get some small mesh (1/4-1/2 inch)
screen and
> place this over an open trash can. The parts wont blow away and the trash
can
> catches 90% of the overspray.
>
> Gary Zilik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Just saw this on the (gasp) Mustang list. Haven't tried to confirm.
Charlie
Mailing-List: contact mustang-list-help(at)n9.org; run by ezmlm
list-help:
list-unsubscribe:
list-post:
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 09:34:14 -0800
From: Billie Lamb <BLlamb(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Alert
To Chris and all Mustangers coming to Sun-N-Fun:
Two Florida Airports (owned by the same person) have instituted a $4.00
landing fee. They are Crystal River and Inverness. Might want to avoid
them when planning your stops. We wouldn't this to become a trend.
Bill Lamb
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More Prop Questions |
<>
Question: What is your opinion, based on your experience, of the concern
raised by several listers about engine overspeed as a result of loss of oil
pressure with the compact hub Hartzell? Thanks.
Harry Crosby
-6 Flying someday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Alert] |
This thread re landing fees.....it was mentioned that KPUB Pueblo, CO has a
landing fee....not so...I was was just there and there is no landing
fee...at least not for non commercial folks like us....for air carriers,
certainly.
RV6A Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com> |
-------------Forwarded Message-----------------
From: Scott A. Jordan, 71341,3505
Date: 03/03/2000 9:39 PM
RE: Prop for Sale
I've been gone all week without a computer and just came back to all the
prop talk. I've been looking into the same. I have a
HC-C2YK-4CF/FC7666A-2 aerobatic prop. 65 hours since zero timed and cut to
72". This prop wieghs about five pounds more than the "standard" prop. I
talked with Brad Huelsman at Hartzell. He is a marketing type but also
does some test flying for the company in his Christian Eagle. The
aerobatics I plan on doing with my -8 do not require the aerobatic prop,
I'll just have to watch the power / RPM a bit more closly.
In an attempt to save five pounds I would like to sell this prop. A prop
shop told me that these are more expensive and it is worth about $5000. I
would be willing to sell it for the price af a new prop from Vans. If you
want the aded feature of an aerobatic prop this is a great deal!!!
Incidently, Brad suggested that I get the HC-C2yk-1BF/F7666A-2 which is the
74" version of what Vans sells. As has been pointed out, ground clearance
is not a problem and this extra 2" will provide a bit more static thrust
and acceleration. It also has the capability of being cut down to 72" if
you suffer any tip damage. The prop Vans sells (72") can't be cut anymore
so any damage turns the prop to junk.
Brad said to simply order the longer prop from Vans and it is drop shipped
from Hartzell. I didn't ask if there is any price differnce but I don't
inmagine there is much.
Scott A. Jordan
914-297-2692
SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Pressure Problem? |
Can someone help diagnose a fuel pressure problem on a 6A with an carbureted
0-360.
The indicated pressure has always hovered smoothly right around 9 lbs at most
rpms, perhaps 5-6 lbs at a 800 rpm idle. The boost pump always gave it an
extra 2-3 lbs at all rpms. Suddenly, not anymore. Now I get zero pressure up
until about 2100 rpm where it will go up to about 6-7 lbs. With the engine
off, the boost pump will raise the pressure to about 5 lbs. With the engine
running, the boost pump seems to have no effect. The current fuel pressure
numbers at various rpms are below.
The engine has also seemed to run a little rougher than usual over the past
couple of hours, and stuttered on the last flight while at a low rpm for
landing. (I know a lot of engines do that, but mine never did.) This may or
may not have anything to do with the low fuel pressure. During my runups this
morning to record the numbers below, it did not stutter, although still seemed
to be a little rougher than I am accustomed to.
What I have checked so far:
1] Readings are the same from each tank.
2] The Gascolator screen is clean. There were 5-6 very small grains of
sediment in the bowl of the gascolator. Nowhere near enough to cause a problem
(in my opinion). The gascolator was full when it was removed.
3] Drained a pint of fuel from each tank; no debris, no water
4] Checked engine, line fittings, carb, fuel pump for leaks while running up
to 2100 rpm, with boost pump on, and with electric primer on. Everything is
dry.
Fuel Pressure readings from this morning's tests, throttling up, then coming
down:
engine off, boost pump on - rise to 5lbs over 15 seconds and holds
start engine, boost off, 1000 rpm - <0 lbs
1500 rpm - <0 lbs
1750 rpm - <0 lbs
1850 rpm - increase to 2.5 lbs, then back down to 0 lbs
2000 rpm - increase to 1 lb, then back down to 0 lbs
2100 rpm - increase to fluctuating between 6-7 lbs
starting down to 2000 rpm - 6-7 lbs unsteady
1900 rpm - 2-3.5 lbs unsteady, then rise to 6 lbs
1800 rpm - drop to 5 lbs
1700 rpm - drop to 4 lbs, then drop to 0 lbs
1600 rpm - fluctuates between 0-3 lbs
1500 rpm - drops to 2 lbs, then drops to <0 lbs
below 1500 rpm - <0 lbs
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
Acro loading and unloading is much different than the occasional landing
braking. Negative Gs and attendant oiling problems aren't encountered
during landing either. Much of the acro problem stem from asymmetrical and
torque loading and unloading the prop and crank. Seldom do you dive straight
down to a landing or do a lomshevok on approach. I cannot see much
difference between a pusher application and the drag from a flat pitched
prop. In either case the forces are gravity in opposition to the push of
the prop. In the case of the pusher, there should be higher forces as the
engine generates thrust. In the braking drag, there is little if any thrust
being generated by the engine, just the friction and compression against the
turning prop.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Saturday, March 04, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Speed Brakes
>
>Glad I could give you a chuckle Cy. Talk to some of the acro guys about
their
>engine wear and problems caused by piston unloading.
>
>WRT the thrust bearing, constant aft loading on a pusher is different than
the
>cyclic fore/aft condition encountered by using the prop as a speed brake.
And
>the loads would be much higher.
>
>Bruce
>
>Cy Galley wrote:
>
>>
>> I find your comment about the thrust bearing amusing. After all the same
>> engine, same thrust bearing is used in several pusher type installations.
>>
>> As for the pistons, etc. Since it is a high vacuum, low manifold pressure
>> situation, more oil will be sucked by the valve guides, reducing wear.
>>
>> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 11:13 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Speed Brakes
>>
>> >
>> >Using the constant speed prop for a speed brake is extremely hard on the
>> engine.
>> >The thrust bearing is NOT designed to take loading in this direction.
You
>> also
>> >unload the pistons/rings and that can lead to cylinder wall and piston
>> scuffing.
>> >
>> >Bruce
>> >Glasair III with speed brakes.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb for sale |
Would you split the two? I just need the carb. If you will not I still may be
interested.
Frank Smidler
Lafayette, IN
Mel Jordan wrote:
>
> For Sale, brand new carb and fuel pump off new Lyc O-360-A1A. Test run at
> the factory two hours in November, in box since. Carb is a Precision
> Airmotive MA-4-5. Pump is Lyc. LW15472. $975 for both, shipping
> included. If interested, please contact me off list.
>
> Mel Jordan
> Tucson, AZ
> 520 575 0738
> tmjordan(at)flash.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
I just mounted my 320-E2D and noticed the rubber mounts all seem to be
stressed out away from the center of the rings in the mount frame.
Is this normal? One looks like it could use a quarter inch or more of
relief. They are all crushed down tight against the spacing sleeve inside
the mount.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 fuse done
Engine being mounted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | THINKING OF LEAVING THE LIST ?? |
I have followed the many postings of folks leaving the List from Corsair to
Scott M to the recent flock.
Without the effort of many of you (to ask questions and offer your
expertist/opinions) Dave and I would not be close to finishing our RV-8A and
I suspect that goes for many others.
While Dave & I are first time builders, we vividly remember drilling our
first hole and driving the first rivet in the horizontal stabilizer - it was
scary. But we knew we had the collective experience and support of the
RV-List behind us (it helped a great deal).
My point is that all of us should not FORGET what we owe to many on the
list. There will always be times when we say the wrong think or it's phased
incorrectly (happen only a few months ago - remember re: drilling). It is
also true that there will always be folks who don't always handle the day to
day pressures well. The DELETE key is always available for those situations.
But what we owe the folks who were there when we needed them is to be there
for the new builders - who need our input as they progress, from "whats the
right primer to use" to "I need to find the right engine" to "should I use
hinges or screws on the cowl".
With that said I know that there are a few people such as "Scott McDaniels
and others" who have already given so much of there time and effort that
don't owe anyone. But when they leave the list a large vacumm exists.
Please consider before you leave - There are new folks joining the list that
are hungry for your knowledge and need your support.
Again, Thanks to all for your help so far and in the future.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | is conduit necessary? |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
for the wiring runs in the wings (to the landing lights, strobes, pitot
heat, etc.) is it necessary to use conduits (split tubing, etc.) ? can you
just run the wire bundle through snap bushings? what is the advantage of
using conduit?
if you do use conduit, can you just run it through the ribs, or do you
still need to use the snap bushings to protect the conduit?
louis cappucci
rv-6a wiring
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kent ashton <kjashton(at)vnet.net> |
I converted from red mil-spec hyd fluid (flammable) to DOT3/4 brake fluid. I
found some pretty good web pages showing that EPDM O-rings were a good choice
for this kind of brake fluid. I think if found this on a web page for Parker
(brakes and hydraulic products).
--Kent A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for... |
Thanks Chuck, i'll do that monday.
Dick
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
In a message dated 3/4/00 8:53:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< listers,
for the wiring runs in the wings (to the landing lights, strobes, pitot
heat, etc.) is it necessary to use conduits (split tubing, etc.) ? >>
Nope, conduit isn't necessary. Some people like it and the neatness it
provides, some people (like me) just use the snap bushings. Your choice.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV List concerns |
Any more info on the float kits for the RVs, Eustace?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Throttle & Mixture Cables & Bulkhead Fittings |
I'm using a throttle quadrant on my -6, and need the quadrant style cables.
First, do the cables Van's sells have the threaded bulkhead fittings so you
can easily secure the cable casing at both ends? If not, what's a good way
to secure the casing?
Second, how long is the non-flexible portion of the sleeve on these cables?
Third, has anyone come up with a good solution for passing several cables
through the firewall at a sharp angle? On my installation (remember, I've
got a left hand throttle quadrant on a -6), I need to pass all three cables
(throttle, mixture, and carb heat) through basically the same area. Is there
a way to bundle these cables, shoot them through the firewall at an angle,
and still seal the firewall. Those little eyeball fittings are neat, but at
$25 each, the cost hurts.
By the way, I was at the local Northern Tools location today and found a
fairly heavy duty 90 degree drill adaptor that holds conventional bits. Not
as small as the plastic one I got from Avery, but much sturdier and I don't
have to special order those threaded drill bits (which I break with alarming
frequency). The cost was $24..
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
Spinning my wheels on systems installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed Brakes |
snips
> > The one thing I really wish for is
> > broader control of sink rate without having to fly close to stall while
> > close to the ground. Has anyone flown a -4 or -6 with both the original
> > tail & the larger -8 tail? Does the new tail have more rudder area?
> > Does it help with sink rate control?
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> Charlie--
>
> I don't understand your comment about not being able to get a good sink
> rate unless you're approaching stall speeds, or am I misreading that.
> All the planes I've flown have been C/S prop or jet, except for a
> Stinson Voyager, and that sucker dropped like a rock with very easy
> pedal effort--in fact once you got the Stinson trimmed you could turn
> circles and reverse course and not touch the yoke. With my modified RV6
> I can forward slip at any reasonable speed, though I like to keep it
> close to or at flap speed in the pattern, and maintain that speed
> throughout the slip. I've hit just around 2,000ft/min descent with the
> prop control full forward and minimum power. Does a FP prop make that
> much of a difference? Also, interesting is how people "feel" things--I
> think my RV6 rudder pedals are extremely light to the touch.(I have the
> dual rudder/brake set up)
>
> Boyd
Hi Boyd,
You're right, it's hard to sort the subjective from the facts. My
reference points are Luscombe 8A, 160 hp f/p Thorpe T-18, & 200 hp c/s
Globe Swift, all flown from the same airport. For me at least, the f/p
makes a big difference. The only way I've been able to get the kind of
sink rate I used to get with the Swift or Luscombe on final is to fly @
around 5 or 6 knots above stall in the RV. I wouldn't try to tell anyone
else how to fly, but I'm not comfortable making a habit of this. Have
you tried setting your prop for just a little flatter than normal cruise
pitch & then flying the pattern to landing w/o touching the prop
control? I'd like to hear how that turns out. Matter of fact, I'd be
glad to ride with you when you try it (hint , hint).
BTW, rudder pressure feels very 'normal' to me in my -4; very well
balanced.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
If for whatever reason you need to add wire, repair or whatever, it sure
would be easier. You can see a picture of the hose I used for conduit at:
http://members.home.net/rv8er/wings.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: is conduit necessary?
>
> listers,
>
> for the wiring runs in the wings (to the landing lights, strobes, pitot
> heat, etc.) is it necessary to use conduits (split tubing, etc.) ? can you
> just run the wire bundle through snap bushings? what is the advantage of
> using conduit?
>
> if you do use conduit, can you just run it through the ribs, or do you
> still need to use the snap bushings to protect the conduit?
>
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a wiring
> mamaroneck, ny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure Problem? |
Your original 9 lbs is above spec so says lycoming. The boost pump seems to
register properly. Engine off, boost on 5-6 psi. My first thought was bad pressure
sender (if electric) or bad instrument (electric or mechanical). But it all seems
to work just right without the engine running. So, I would check the sender, and
instrument then if everything is ok check the engine driven mechanical pump.
My system has the following specs
5-6 psi boost pump only
5-6 psi Idle (cold) no boost
5-7 psi idle (cold) with boost
4-5 psi at cruise, no boost
Now when things get hot after a couple of full stops with taxi back it's different
2-3 psi Idle (hot) no boost
5-6 psi Idle (hot) with boost
So things change as under cowl temps rise.
My transducer is VDO and there was a thread a few months back about how the VDO
could not distinguish between 0 and 1.5 psi.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ 14.5 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP advice? |
BILL--- NOT THAT I'M ANY GREAT PAINTER, BUT I HAVE THE HAR-FR $120 GUN WITH
SEP 2-QT CUP AND IT WORKS GREAT. I DON'T THINK IT WOULD LAST A LONG TIME [
PRODUCTION WORK] BUT FOR A COUPLE OF FIVE OR SIX PLANES IT WOULD DO FINE. A
FRIEND OF MINE[RV-R] WHO IS A GREAT PAINTER SAYS THE SAME. ALSO--- WAIT AND
HAR-FR PUTS THEM ON SALE ALL THE TIME FOR $85-89, AND THEN IT'S REALY A DEAL.
MIKE [RV-4]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | fuel pickup tubes |
I can't find anything about this in the written part of the construction
manual or on the fuel tank plans drawing, but on the last page of pictures
in the wing kit section of the manual there is a picture of the access cover
plate with the fuel pickup tube secured in place by running it through an
aluminum tab riveted to the cover plate. It says this is so the pick-up
tube does not rotate up when tightening the attach fitting to the tank.
Have others installed this extra tab and if so, did you use anything to keep
the fuel pick-up tube from chaffing on the edge of the hole in the tab?
It seems like painting small alignment marks on the fitting and rib would be
a good idea here so a quick look can verify the tube is still on the bottom
of the tank.
Thanks,
Chris Hand
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | ElectroStatic Spray Painting |
Does anyone have any experience with electrostatic spray painting on an
airplane? What sort of equipment is required? I understand it avoids
overspray and saves on paint, but I haven't heard anything about quality
or cost.
Charlie Brame
-6A QB, Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz> |
Just a question to any of you running an MT prop on an RV6 - I would like
to find out how the performance is with the three bladed prop. Please
contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Louise Coats RV6 362hr
"L. Coats"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantity |
Listers:
The time has come to add some color to my life and my RV-6. I have chosen to
use PPG Concept paint. I need to know if any one else has used this paint as
I need to know the total quantity of unthinned paint to purchase for a one
color paint job.
Thanks in advance
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
--- Louis Cappucci wrote:
> listers,
>
> for the wiring runs in the wings (to the landing
> lights, strobes, pitot
> heat, etc.) is it necessary to use conduits (split
> tubing, etc.) ? can you
> just run the wire bundle through snap bushings? what
> is the advantage of
> using conduit?
>
> if you do use conduit, can you just run it through
> the ribs, or do you
> still need to use the snap bushings to protect the
> conduit?
>
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a wiring
> mamaroneck, ny
>
It is not necessary. The snap bushing are lighter and
you can use the wire that is in there to pull new ones
through if you ever need it.
The use of Snap Bushings was recommend to me by Van at
the 1989 Merced fly-in. He said that the conduit was
not necessary and was TOO HEAVY for him. I followed
Van's advice and used snap bushings.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Prop Questions |
> Question: What is your opinion, based on your
> experience, of the concern
> raised by several listers about engine overspeed as
> a result of loss of oil
> pressure with the compact hub Hartzell? Thanks.
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6 Flying someday
When inverted on a botched roll, I have had my engine
miss but never over speed. I do not have inverted oil
so do not intentionally pull negative Gs. The only
kind of Overspeed I have seen on the engine is maybe
10 or 20 RPM on my digital tach.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
Louis,
I used ,what was then called, schedule A pvc pipe (1/2") - used for
sprinkler systems etc.(I'm not sure what it's designation is in the new
numbering system) It's very light and easy to install if you havn't closed the
wings yet. I just opened up the tooling holes in the ribs to the proper size
and slid the pipe through. It's smooth inside so its very easy to push wires
through (yes, push!).
You WILL wish you had a conduit the first time you realize that you forgot a
wire or just want to add one later. Its worth the time.
Dave
Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
> listers,
>
> for the wiring runs in the wings (to the landing lights, strobes, pitot
> heat, etc.) is it necessary to use conduits (split tubing, etc.) ? can you
> just run the wire bundle through snap bushings? what is the advantage of
> using conduit?
>
> if you do use conduit, can you just run it through the ribs, or do you
> still need to use the snap bushings to protect the conduit?
>
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a wiring
> mamaroneck, ny
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
In a message dated 3/5/2000 11:13:29 AM Tokyo Standard Time,
N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> for the wiring runs in the wings (to the landing lights, strobes, pitot
> heat, etc.) is it necessary to use conduits (split tubing, etc.) ? can you
> just run the wire bundle through snap bushings? what is the advantage of
> using conduit?
>
> if you do use conduit, can you just run it through the ribs, or do you
> still need to use the snap bushings to protect the conduit?
I plan on using just the snap bushings (lower weight and easeof installation
- you have to enlargen the holes if you want to use conduit) with some small
pieces of foam wedged in to keep the movement down. I dont think running
conduit through the lightening holes is a good idea, but it you do, make sure
that you secure the conduit at each rib and place some sort of a protector
against chafing.
Dave Leonard.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
Paul Besing wrote:
> If for whatever reason you need to add wire, repair or whatever, it sure
> would be easier. You can see a picture of the hose I used for conduit at:
Conduit isn't *necessary*, but I think it would be a good idea for the
reasons outlined above.
If you install conduit, it means that you don't need to actually install
the wiring and other electrical stuff until much later in the
construction sequence. That in turn means that you can postpone
decisions on what lighting options to install (strobes, wingtip landing
lights, nav lights) until later. Duckworks LE landing lights should
probably be installed at construction time, although that's not
*necessary* either. And therefore you can postpone purchase of these
expensive items until you've got your finish kit (or even after first
flight).
What you're buying with your conduit is (a) time, and (b) flexibility.
If you *know* what lighting you want to install, and have the money to
buy it, then conduit doesn't gain you the advantages I've suggested.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ElectroStatic Spray Painting |
I'm afraid that does not work that well ; Aluminium is a non-ferro metal,
and that is not to suitable for this type of process.
This type of process can be a great help in obtaining specific thickness in
paint.
It is sometimes uncomfortable, you can get a good static discharge on your
body, this can be rather painful at times.
Your question has been asked many times before, it doesn't require the same
skills as normal spray-application, is more paint efficient and takes less
time.
These are all points that are high on every managers wishlist.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle & Mixture Cables & Bulkhead Fittings |
Kyle,
We went with the eyeballs - yes they are significantly more expensive, but
we considered them a safety (long term) issue and in the total cost they
were not significant. With them we have a solid penetration, resolved the
bend radiius issue and sleep better.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
>From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Throttle & Mixture Cables & Bulkhead Fittings
>Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 21:52:36 EST
>
>
>I'm using a throttle quadrant on my -6, and need the quadrant style cables.
>
>Third, has anyone come up with a good solution for passing several cables
>through the firewall at a sharp angle? On my installation (remember, I've
>got a left hand throttle quadrant on a -6), I need to pass all three cables
>(throttle, mixture, and carb heat) through basically the same area. Is
>there
>a way to bundle these cables, shoot them through the firewall at an angle,
>and still seal the firewall. Those little eyeball fittings are neat, but
>at
>$25 each, the cost hurts.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kyle Boatright
>Spinning my wheels on systems installation.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Brock" <bradb(at)digitalpassage.com> |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
Why not install the bushings, run heavy nylon string through them and tie
the string off at both ends until your ready to install wiring?? Anything to
make your plane lighter without compromising strength would be proper IMO.
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2000 2:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: is conduit necessary?
>
> Paul Besing wrote:
> > If for whatever reason you need to add wire, repair or whatever, it sure
> > would be easier. You can see a picture of the hose I used for conduit
at:
>
> Conduit isn't *necessary*, but I think it would be a good idea for the
> reasons outlined above.
>
> If you install conduit, it means that you don't need to actually install
> the wiring and other electrical stuff until much later in the
> construction sequence. That in turn means that you can postpone
> decisions on what lighting options to install (strobes, wingtip landing
> lights, nav lights) until later. Duckworks LE landing lights should
> probably be installed at construction time, although that's not
> *necessary* either. And therefore you can postpone purchase of these
> expensive items until you've got your finish kit (or even after first
> flight).
>
> What you're buying with your conduit is (a) time, and (b) flexibility.
> If you *know* what lighting you want to install, and have the money to
> buy it, then conduit doesn't gain you the advantages I've suggested.
>
> Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
i need a couple of terminals (lugs) for 2 AWG and 4 AWG wires, connecting to
1/4" and 5/16" posts. i haven't been able to find the #2 X 1/4" anywhere
yet...
any recommended sources?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a wiring
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel pickup tubes |
Chris:
Yes, I did use a little tab to keep my pickup tube from rotating while
tightening it. I made mine so that it was touching the tube in the area of
the fitting, so that the tab was touching the fitting. That, and gobbing on
plenty of tank sealant in this area was my solution. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
finishing second flap
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris & Kellie Hand <ckhand(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Saturday, March 04, 2000 10:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel pickup tubes
>
>I can't find anything about this in the written part of the construction
>manual or on the fuel tank plans drawing, but on the last page of pictures
>in the wing kit section of the manual there is a picture of the access
cover
>plate with the fuel pickup tube secured in place by running it through an
>aluminum tab riveted to the cover plate. It says this is so the pick-up
>tube does not rotate up when tightening the attach fitting to the tank.
>Have others installed this extra tab and if so, did you use anything to
keep
>the fuel pick-up tube from chaffing on the edge of the hole in the tab?
>
>It seems like painting small alignment marks on the fitting and rib would
be
>a good idea here so a quick look can verify the tube is still on the bottom
>of the tank.
>Thanks,
>Chris Hand
>RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source for lugs |
Try George Orndorff.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Actually, I think some of the rest of us would be interested in the
information also. This sounds like something that should be in the
archives.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
Wondering about 3 bladed props
-----Original Message-----
From: L. Coats [SMTP:lcoats(at)wave.co.nz]
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 11:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: MT prop on RV6
Just a question to any of you running an MT prop on an RV6 - I would like
to find out how the performance is with the three bladed prop. Please
contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Louise Coats RV6 362hr
"L. Coats"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel pickup tubes |
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris & Kellie Hand <ckhand(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Saturday, March 04, 2000 10:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: fuel pickup tubes
>
>Have others installed this extra tab and if so, did you use anything to
keep
>the fuel pick-up tube from chaffing on the edge of the hole in the tab?
I formed the tab by bending a 1/2 x 0.025 strip over a 1/4 drill shank. The
finished article looks like a half-circle cable clamp. When riveted down,
the tab was very tight so there could be no fretting corrosion. A dab of
ProSeal will also keep the pick up from chaffing.
>
>It seems like painting small alignment marks on the fitting and rib would
be
>a good idea here so a quick look can verify the tube is still on the bottom
>of the tank.
The end of the finger screen on the pickup should terminate just above the
quick drain. When you take unscrew the QD at your condition inspection you
can see that the pickup is in place and also inspect the screen for
clogging.
>Thanks,
>Chris Hand
>RV-6A
>
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source for lugs |
>From: "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: source for lugs
>Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 09:56:43 -0500
>
>
>listers,
>
>i need a couple of terminals (lugs) for 2 AWG and 4 AWG wires, connecting
>to
>1/4" and 5/16" posts. i haven't been able to find the #2 X 1/4" anywhere
>yet...
>
>any recommended sources?
>
>thanks,
>louis cappucci
>rv-6a wiring
>mamaroneck, ny
I found some copper lugs at the local automotive electrical supply store.
You need a crimping tool that you beat to death with a hammer to crimp the
lug. These aren't cheap, but maybe you could borrow one somewhere.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: source for lugs |
In a message dated 3/5/00 7:39:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> I haven't been able to find the #2 X 1/4" anywhere
Hi Louis: You can find Lugs on our page @ AAMR/AirCore/Lugs
or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectrr/Page28.html
Or AAMR/AirCore/8
GA. To 4/0 Connectors http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page18.html
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
That is exactly what I did- used string through the bushings until I was
ready to install the lights and run the wire. The string stayed taped to the
wings for about 3 years and the day I ran the wire through the bushings
starting from the outboard going inboard. The wire started in just fine.
Phone rang, answered it, resumed my task and low and behold the weight of the
bundle of wire pulled itself out along with my string. Now what? after
worrying about it. And a pot of coffee, took apart a hing, used the pin and
started it through the bushings. layed under the wing and through the
inspection hole fed the hingh to the fuselage , taped the string to the hinge
and pulled it back through No big deal. Terry Cole N468TC 21 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Pressure Problem |
Andy: Just a guess but what you describe would lead me to suspect the
fuel pressure sender (transducer) or the gauge itself if no sender in between
has gone belly up.
Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Pickup Tube |
I wrapped mine with about 6 or 8 turns of electricians tape where it contacts
the anti-rotation tab.
Harry Crosby
-6 Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
I used the conduit sold by Vans and plan to secure it at each rib with a
little dab of RTV or something similar. The location I put it in looks like
the conduit will interfere a bit with bucking a couple rivets at each rib
when I go to close the wing. I put the conduit too close to the rib
flanges. I'm sure I'll figure out a way to get those done, but if you
decide to go with the conduit, consider access for bucking rivets when
choosing the location.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, nearly done w/wing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AN5814 pitot wiring? |
Ken:
You don't have to split any wires. Simply run two wires into the detachable
pitot electrical connector. One will be your power wire, the other goes to a
ground stud. See the AC 43 whatever circular for diagrams of ground studs -
also some people have a pic on their web pages, and so does Bob N. in his
book I beleive.
As for soldering it - get some help if you've never done it, but take heart.
You can't ruin your pitot tube - the worst that would happen is that you'd
have to replace the $10 electrical connector. You can get desoldering braid
cheaply too & its a no-brainer to use. Use either 63/37 or the similar
solder that has 2% silver in it from Radio Shack - about $2.29 a roll. I
found that a 30W iron was the smallest that will do the job nicely - a 25W
might be OK.
If you get TOTALLY stuck you can mail the connector & the wires to me & I'll
solder it for you!
Phil, 80691
>
> Well, I finally figured out my pitot plumbing, thanks to some help from
the
> list, but I still have to get the heating element wired. My question, as
a
> soldering newbie, is how to split the wire (which I haven't yet obtained)
> between the terminals? I'm assuming (always a bad idea, I know) that I
won't
> need two individual wires, with one going to each contact. I'm sure I'm
> missing something here...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wanted - RV-6/6A project |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jsaecabe(at)juno.com> |
Wanted - Looking for an RV-6/6A tail and wing kit that needs a home.
Joe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT prop on RV6 |
Louise,
No fair... if you get to find out about the 3 blade MT prop, we all
want the same info. (not a flame, just a tease)
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Need some advise.....my NavAid is in and I thought working...wing leveler
function is good, tracks a heading OK, but now I have an oddity when
attempting to follow a GPS flight course.
The NavAid follows a straight path to the first waypoint where I have tried
various course direction changes: a 90-degree change resulted in a VERY wide
arc with inability to get back on course. (Miles off course.)
A 45-degree course change at the first waypoint resulted in the same.
A 15-degree (or less) change at the first waypoint resulted in a quick turn
to the WRONG direction, immediately followed by a change and bank to the
correct direction, with approximate following of the new heading....but then
the NavAid flew the plane completely past the next waypoint and its slight
change of direction. All the while the coupler light showed GPS signals
coming in. GPS showed satellite lock on also.
My GPS seems to lock on well. I am using NMEA 0183-2 data with RMB and RMC
sentences turned on.
I have attempted to determine IF the NavAid course width is set too wide
(it can be from about 1.25 -as I recall - to 10nm. The instruction book
method of determining where it is set, and how to set it does not work even
remotely.....I don't know if course width is the problem or not.
I'd sure like some help...have e-mailed NavAid but no response
yet...weekend effect likely.
Any help out there?
RV-6A
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
I looked into the MT a short while ago. Particularly I need an electric
prop since my engine has no gov. pad. I was kind of shocked by the price.
It was a whole lot more than a Hertzell.
allen
Allen Duberstein
allen.duberstein(at)intel.com
Phone: 412-831-7302
Fax: 412-831-5742
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Welch [mailto:vwelch(at)knownet.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: MT prop on RV6
Actually, I think some of the rest of us would be interested in the
information also. This sounds like something that should be in the
archives.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
Wondering about 3 bladed props
-----Original Message-----
From: L. Coats [SMTP:lcoats(at)wave.co.nz]
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 11:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: MT prop on RV6
Just a question to any of you running an MT prop on an RV6 - I would like
to find out how the performance is with the three bladed prop. Please
contact me off the list.
Thanks.
Louise Coats RV6 362hr
"L. Coats"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A performance, and other topics... |
I haven't sent an update to the list recently on what we're learning in the
flight test program for our RV-6A/O-360/Sensenich/1080 lb "fun machine".
Did a little climb/descent testing yesterday. One of the most interesting
results from it is that this airplane just isn't very sensitive to speed in
terms of climb performance! Testing was done at various airspeeds, trying
to hold constant speed from 6,500 ft to 9,500 ft (ground level around here
is almost 5,000 MSL, and I'm a chicken when away from the runway - don't
like to be really low with no more practice/experience than either me or the
plane has had).
What I found: at 80 kts indicated, it took 3:03 to climb 3,000 ft. At 90
kts, 2:57. At 100 kts, 2:56. At 110 kts, 3:10. At 120kts, 3:40. So, Vy
is probably right around 105 kts, although cyl temps run just a little
higher than preferred (but not above limits) in an extended climb at that
speed. In all cases, the first thousand feet was a little quicker than the
last thousand, but not by a big difference (maybe 8-10 sec).
Editorializing a little from this data, I'm pleased with the wide speed
range and minimal sensitivity of climb performance to speed - it implies to
me that as long as I'm within reason of a little over 100 kts, I'll be doing
well - don't HAVE to be terribly precise to coax maximum performance from
this bird! I suspect that a constant speed prop would change this
significantly - with the 83" pitch Sensenich, the engine RPM lugs down
enough as the climb angle goes up that I suspect I'm losing a lot of
horsepower (to say nothing of starting at 6,500 MSL!). FWIW, I can get to
redline RPM in level flight at any altitude less than 10,000 ft - below
this, I need to pull the throttle back a little at cruise. Above 10,000
MSL, can stay wide open with no problem (and see about 145+ kt IAS, figures
close to 165 kt TAS!).
Coming downhill, I found more difference (and am not finished with the
testing yet). Here, losing that same 3,000 ft of altitude, I found the
following (all with throttle fully closed, but engine still running): At
120 kts (lots of nose down!), 1:48 (almost 2,000 ft/min). At 110 kts, 2:32.
At 100 kts, 2:38. At 90 kts, 2:55. At 80 kts, it took 3:11 to lose that
3,000 ft - already below 1,000 ft/min - getting better. I still need to
extend the bottom of this range, to see what best glide speed really will
be. I'm guessing that it will be pretty close to 70 kts - will let the list
know when we verify it. More editorializing - as wonderful as this plane is
to fly, I can understand why Van and those of you who are buying/building
the RV-9A's can see some reasons to build airplanes with higher aspect ratio
wings (and lighter loading) - this is not stellar glide performance, but
then again that's not what my primary mission is expected to be. Too bad we
can't build a perfect airplane that doesn't need any compromises!
On other subjects - thanks to John Fasching for "sticking up" for Pueblo,
CO's airport (my home base) - he's right, we don't normally charge "landing
fees" as such. Unfortunately, the FBO here that has been willing to waive
overnight tie-down fees for those people buying fuel has recently pretty
much gotten out of the fuel business - the "other guys" that are still
pursuing fuel sales are also more unlikely to pass up a tie-down fee. Aside
from that bit of "unfriendliness", we do have a good runway system,
relatively low traffic (for a class D airport), instrument approaches
(ILS/NDB/GPS), and generally decent weather. If you need a place to stop
and check the weather before or after tackling the Rockies just west of us,
please stop in.
Also - there have been a couple of comments about the relative merits of
wiring "conduit" in the wings vs. using snap bushings per the plans. All
have been correct factually that I've seen. We built our QB using the snap
bushings. I already wish that I'd used conduit - the strobe wires and
landing/nav light wires alone will more than fill the snap bushings
recommended, and adding an antenna, or Nav-Aid servo per Sam Buchanon's
recent advice, or... will be pretty difficult. We just need to find some
really light-weight (and cheap) material to use for this conduit (I'm
wondering if we can find some cardboard tube like Estes uses for model
rocket fuselages that would fill the bill - can't imagine that you could
find the weight, and it would make running wires easy whenever we find a
need...???)
Last subject (and apologies for this post getting so long) - I went out
today to finish up the glide testing. On start-up, alternator voltage went
to almost 16V and it was charging at 20A. Checked it out, and sure enough
the regulator isn't - it's just passing through whatever is applied to the
input terminal. Has anyone else had any trouble with Van's adjustable
regulator (Van's p/n ES M5-150A)? I hate to replace it with the same thing
if it's a common trouble point - I'll look for something else so I don't
have to fight it (like a dummy, I didn't make it easy to get to for service
purposes - it's up under the dash to keep it in a "nice" environment. If
I'm going to play with it often, I'll put it out in the engine compartment
and let the heat give it an excuse to give me trouble!)
Thanks for the patience, for those of you who made it through this entire
message without exercising that delete key -
Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q) N110KB - 14 hrs already!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: fuel pickup tubes |
Chris & Kellie-
One thing I did to simplify this part was to combine the spacer required
where the fitting attaches to the tank end rib, with the anti-rotate
tab. I made a strip of .040 about 1-1/4" wide and about 3" long with a
hole for the fitting in one end, and a fork in the other end, bent 90
deg. to hold the pickup tube. (look at the photo in the manual and
imagine the bend in the tab going UP towards and through the fitting)
One -4 rivet between the fitting and the bend to hold it in place (one
less hole in the tank). Also, be sure to position the end of the
pick-up tube close enough to the drain so you can look through it to see
if the tube is still in place (and check for debris around the screen).
I've got a photo around here somewhere if you're interested- let me know
off-list.
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A (ALMOST ready to start rivetting wing skins)
Chris & Kellie Hand wrote:
>
>
> I can't find anything about this in the written part of the construction
> manual or on the fuel tank plans drawing, but on the last page of pictures
> in the wing kit section of the manual there is a picture of the access cover
> plate with the fuel pickup tube secured in place(snip)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel pickup tubes |
Thanks to all for the suggestions. I went ahead and made tabs as shown in
the manual, but used u-shaped notches in the tab rather than running the
tube through a hole in the tab. Looks like it will work fine and I don't
think I can put off mixing the proseal any longer. Time to start sealing
those tanks :)
Chris Hand
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 rudder cable question |
| From: | "Don Diehl" <ddiehl(at)silverlink.net> |
I used Nylon tube conduits to run my rudder cables through the cockpit
bulkheads ( F-402, 404, 405, 406, 407). The cables can't snag on anything,it
looks sanitary, it's light and it's cheap at the local hardware store.
I used two 5 foot pieces, 7/16" I.D, 5/8" O.D.
It comes on a roll so is tightly coiled.
Poke a rod through each piece to straighten it, put a plug in the end then
pour in near boiling water. Let it set a few minutes, drain, allow to cool,
pull out the rod. Behold, a straight condutit.
Don Diehl
N28EW
Bremerton WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling Gear Leg Supports |
I will begin setting up for drilling my Gear leg supports (6A) tomorrow! Any
tips or "words of wisdom" from those of you who have gone before me?
Tommy Walker
6A, Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Gear Leg Supports |
I've sent Tommy my instructions off line, which are also found in the
archives.
Just an added note: I drilled the gear mounts before the bottom forward skin
was riveted on. When I mounted the wings, the mounts didn't line up!
It turns out that the bottom skin was a tight fit where it wraps around the
longerons and it actually squeezed the sides in a few thousandths! That was
frustrating.
Van's said this is a common problem and they suggested using a bottle jack
to spread the sides apart. I chose instead to hammer on the weldment flange
radii to squeeze them in a bit -- it helped.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Sunday, March 05, 2000 4:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling Gear Leg Supports
>
>I will begin setting up for drilling my Gear leg supports (6A) tomorrow!
Any
>tips or "words of wisdom" from those of you who have gone before me?
>
>Tommy Walker
>6A, Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MT prop on RV6 |
Hello, one of our customer, testers is using a 3 blade hoffman on one of the
350 Chevy units. So far all is working well in a test cell next comes an
February 28, 2000 - March 05, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ib