RV-Archive.digest.vol-ic
March 05, 2000 - March 10, 2000
actual in flight on an aircraft test. The co. is Team-38.com. Contact Len
Bechtold on its performance and prices, they didn't seem out of line as our
drive units have no provision for a governor and oil through the shaft.
Compared to a Hartzell we were quoted for a 50 Bonanza it is cheap.
Jess Meyers
Belted Air Power
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing wiring conduit |
> We just need to find some
> really light-weight (and cheap) material to use for this conduit (I'm
> wondering if we can find some cardboard tube like Estes uses for model
> rocket fuselages that would fill the bill - can't imagine that you could
> find the weight, and it would make running wires easy whenever we find a
> need...???)
I dug up this post from 1997:
United States Plastics, 1-800-537-9724 sells thin walled plastic tubing
perfect for wire chases in wings or fuselage. This tubing is much lighter
weight than the typical thin wall PVC tubing available at hardware stores.
The tubing is made from Tenite butyrate, is clear, and in the diameters of
interest is available with wall thicknesses of only 1/16" or 1/32". Their
stock no. 42122, for example, is 7/16" by 1/2", and is only $.23 per foot.
I have it through the wings, and will put one under the floor prior to
closing.
Alex Peterson
6A Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric M. Strandjord" <emstrand(at)isd.net> |
| Subject: | Follow up to HVLP, Sort of..... |
James, what number or specification did Sherwin Williams come up with
to match VAN's powdercoat?
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: source for lugs |
In a message dated 3/5/00 7:36:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I need a couple of terminals (lugs) for 2 AWG and 4 AWG wires, connecting
to
1/4" and 5/16" posts. i haven't been able to find the #2 X 1/4" anywhere
yet...
any recommended sources? >>
West Marine.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/4/00 8:37:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
tripod(at)oneimage.com writes:
<< How about an address, phone #, or e-mail address for Ace Seal>>
Okay, how about all three.
Ace Seal
2065 Martin Av #113 Santa Clara, CA 95050
800-ACE-SEAL
E-mail aceseal(at)aol.com.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | is conduit necessary? |
I'm using PVC type conduit from the local home supply store. One inch holes
in the ribs are needed. It's smooth and light. 98 cents per 8 foot piece.
Larry Bowen, RV-8 tanks/wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint quantity |
dgmurray wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
>
> The time has come to add some color to my life and my RV-6. I have chosen to
> use PPG Concept paint. I need to know if any one else has used this paint as
> I need to know the total quantity of unthinned paint to purchase for a one
> color paint job.
>
> Thanks in advance
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Doug Murray
> Southern Alberta
Check this:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/paint1.html
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http;//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Follow up to HVLP, Sort of..... |
"Eric M. Strandjord" wrote:
>
> James, what number or specification did Sherwin Williams come up with
> to match VAN's powdercoat?
>
It's the two part acrylic (I don't remember the exact name). I left a
powder-coated piece and he called me a few days later with the paint. It
was a custom match and isn't perfect.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
With all the talk about the MT Propeller, I wondered
if they had a web site. Guess what I found?
http://www.mt-propeller.com/
Please report back to the list with the price when you
find out how much one costs for the O-320 / O-360.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges |
I am getting ready to drill on the longitudinal hinges on my 6A S-cowl. I
plan on drilling on the lower half with the lower cowl supported by the side
and bottom clecoes and the hinge halves pinned together. I have the zipper
inclined per plans/RVAtor. When I put on the top cowl (all fitted), how do
I back up the hinge for drilling? I can reach in through the air intake for
about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back but after that I have no means of backing
up the hinge.
What have others done?
Thanks.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges |
Once I got the holes that you can reach that you mentioned, I took it off
and drilled one hole towards the back of the cowl. Just a random place to
hold the hinge on. Then I put it back on and finished the drilling. Fill
the original hole, and you are all set.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 804 BULKHEAD |
I HAVE 99% OF MY WIRING DONE, THE THROTTLE QUADRANT IS IN, THE MANUAL AILERON
TRIM IS IN, IS IT WISE TO CLOSE UP THE 804 BULKHEAD NOW OR WAIT UNTIL A LATER
DATE??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 ENGINE INSTALLATION |
I'M ABOUT TO MOUNT MY NEW AO360A1A ENGINE WITH AIR-FLOW PERFORMANCE INJECTION
AND LAZAR IGNITION TO MY RV-8. IS THERE ANY THING I SHOULD MOUNT TO THE
FIREWALL BEFORE I MOUNT THE ENGINE??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR |
HAVE ANY OF THE FINISHED RV-8'S INSTALLED AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE WITH FUEL
INJECTION. IF THE RAM AIR SOURCE WAS PLUGGED FOR SOME STRANGE REASON,
(BIRD, ICE ) WOULDN'T AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE BE NEEDED??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
Also, with the conduit you can slide it in from the tip after the wing is
completly finished and it won't get in the way of your riviting.
Dave Bristol
Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
> listers,
>
> for the wiring runs in the wings (to the landing lights, strobes, pitot
> heat, etc.) is it necessary to use conduits (split tubing, etc.) ? can you
> just run the wire bundle through snap bushings? what is the advantage of
> using conduit?
>
> if you do use conduit, can you just run it through the ribs, or do you
> still need to use the snap bushings to protect the conduit?
>
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a wiring
> mamaroneck, ny
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for... |
I've seen some trays in E-bay.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pickup Tube |
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
It is quite likely I am misinterpreting what you are saying; however if you
are putting electrician tape inside your gas tank, I think this is a bad
idea. 100LL will turn it to goo which will be harmfull to the Lycoming.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
----------
>From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ('rv-list(at)matronics.com')
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pickup Tube
>Date: Sun, Mar 5, 2000, 11:48
>
>
>I wrapped mine with about 6 or 8 turns of electricians tape where it contacts
>the anti-rotation tab.
>
>Harry Crosby
>-6 Finish Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Terry Coles RV Photo |
Lister:
I just put up a photo of Terry Cole's RV on our home page. WAY TO GO
TERRY...Great choice of colors!
Click the blue link below if you care to see it
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A performance, and other topics... |
>
>I haven't sent an update to the list recently on what we're learning in the
>flight test program for our RV-6A/O-360/Sensenich/1080 lb "fun machine".
>
>Did a little climb/descent testing yesterday. One of the most interesting
>results from it is that this airplane just isn't very sensitive to speed in
>terms of climb performance! Testing was done at various airspeeds, trying
>to hold constant speed from 6,500 ft to 9,500 ft (ground level around here
>is almost 5,000 MSL, and I'm a chicken when away from the runway - don't
>like to be really low with no more practice/experience than either me or the
>plane has had).
>
>What I found: at 80 kts indicated, it took 3:03 to climb 3,000 ft. At 90
>kts, 2:57. At 100 kts, 2:56. At 110 kts, 3:10. At 120kts, 3:40. So, Vy
>is probably right around 105 kts, although cyl temps run just a little
>higher than preferred (but not above limits) in an extended climb at that
>speed. In all cases, the first thousand feet was a little quicker than the
>last thousand, but not by a big difference (maybe 8-10 sec).
Thanks for the post Bill - that data sure gives a nice classic
looking plot of rate of climb vs speed. The way I read the graph,
the best rate of climb is a bit less than 100 kt, but as you noted,
there is little performance penalty to climbing faster, and you get
better cooling if you do.
One comment on doing climb or descent testing: The results you get
can be affected by the changing winds as you change altitudes. For
example, if you are climbing into an increasing headwind, every time
the wind speed increases your airspeed will increase a bit, and you
will pull the nose up a bit to get back on the desired speed. This
gives you a bit of extra climb every time that happens, and the
apparent climb rate will be a bit higher than it would be if the wind
speed was constant. The opposite thing happens if you are climbing
with a tail wind that increases as you climb. In the flight test
world, we account for this by doing two runs at each speed, on
headings 180 degrees apart, and averaging the results. For extra
points, you would do the runs at 90 degrees to the expected wind, so
the changes in wind speed will have less effect on the airspeed,
which makes it easier to fly the test point.
Keep up the good work Bill,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
I am considering a panel consisting of the appropriate radios, GPS for
navigation.
Here is the kicker for engine instruments the Rocky Mountain Monitor and the
MicroEncoder for Airspeed, VSI, Altitude, OAT. Is this asking to much from
these istruments for VFR flight. I believe Vans RV-8A uses only the
MicroEncoder for flight information.
Your thoughts please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
It is obviously a great unit, but I would not want to depend on it soley for
those functions...one problem with it, and all your instruments are gone. I
would at minimum have a back up altimeter and airspeed indicator. I would
not want to be flying at night and have that go out and not have an
altimeter.
In fact, RMI states that it is not intended to replace those instruments.
The only thing in my panel the uEncoder completely replaces is the VSI. And
then I get the OAT and others to boot.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
I have the standard 6 pack of instruments with the RMI
microEncoder replacing the VSI. After 510+ hours of
flying this way, I would not hesitate to use the RMI
microEncoder as my only pitot static instruments for a
VFR only aircraft.
I saw an RV-4 at Merced / Bakersfield set up this way
about 6 years back.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Zander" <dzan(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR |
----- Original Message -----
From: <SALNED71(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2000 5:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR
HAVE ANY OF THE FINISHED RV-8'S INSTALLED AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE WITH FUEL
INJECTION. IF THE RAM AIR SOURCE WAS PLUGGED FOR SOME STRANGE REASON,
(BIRD, ICE ) WOULDN'T AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE BE NEEDED??
Hi:
I plan on using Mooney's alternate air system just a friend of mine has on
his RV-6. Automatic
and in the center of air filter bottom of Van's air box. Check it out.
Dick Zander N747RZ finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
>
>I am considering a panel consisting of the appropriate radios, GPS
for
>navigation.
>Here is the kicker for engine instruments the Rocky Mountain Monitor
and the
>MicroEncoder for Airspeed, VSI, Altitude, OAT. Is this asking to much
from
>these istruments for VFR flight. I believe Vans RV-8A uses only the
>MicroEncoder for flight information.
>Your thoughts please.
>
I have been flying with a similar setup for almost three years (467
hrs):
MicroEncoder (flight instruments)
VM1000 (engine instruments)
Garmin GPS-195
Comm and Transponder
I am pleased with the instrumentation; I especially like the
MicroEncoder. Some people, however, do not like a digital
presentation for airspeed. (This is one of those personal preference
things.)
Just remember, with this setup you MUST remain VFR. I am currently
considering installing an electric turn coordinator -- just to give
myself a fighting chance in case I ever screw up and get in the soup.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
>
>Need some advise.....my NavAid is in and I thought working...wing leveler
>function is good, tracks a heading OK, but now I have an oddity when
>attempting to follow a GPS flight course.
>
>The NavAid follows a straight path to the first waypoint where I have tried
>various course direction changes: a 90-degree change resulted in a VERY wide
>arc with inability to get back on course. (Miles off course.)
>
>A 45-degree course change at the first waypoint resulted in the same.
>
>A 15-degree (or less) change at the first waypoint resulted in a quick turn
>to the WRONG direction, immediately followed by a change and bank to the
>correct direction, with approximate following of the new heading....but then
>the NavAid flew the plane completely past the next waypoint and its slight
>change of direction. All the while the coupler light showed GPS signals
>coming in. GPS showed satellite lock on also.
>
>My GPS seems to lock on well. I am using NMEA 0183-2 data with RMB and RMC
>sentences turned on.
>
>I have attempted to determine IF the NavAid course width is set too wide
>(it can be from about 1.25 -as I recall - to 10nm. The instruction book
>method of determining where it is set, and how to set it does not work even
>remotely.....I don't know if course width is the problem or not.
>
>I'd sure like some help...have e-mailed NavAid but no response
>yet...weekend effect likely.
>
>Any help out there?
the NavAid is a wing leveler with a yaw rate sensor (like that
found in your turn coordinator) to sense rate and direction
of turning only. It has no notion of heading.
The internal workings of the NavAid's electronics uses the
GPS/VOR course error to put a slight bias on what it believes
is a good way to steer . . . at some point on the horizon
which the somewhat myopic electronic eyes believe is moving a
tad.
When you cross a waypoint with a coupled wing leveler, you
have to uncouple the radio, get set up on a new heading toward
next waypoint, it wouldn't hurt to reset the GPS receiver to
make next waypoint good from present position to wash out
cross track error and only then do you re-couple the radio
to the wing leveler.
Unlike autopilots with directional gyros, the NavAid/Radio
combination cannot capture a new heading based only on
turning rate and some cross-track error. I.e. it won't
capture a new flight path - it will only do a nice job
of holding a flight path that you've already established.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source for lugs |
>
>
>>From: "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: source for lugs
>>Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 09:56:43 -0500
>>
>>
>>listers,
>>
>>i need a couple of terminals (lugs) for 2 AWG and 4 AWG wires, connecting
>>to
>>1/4" and 5/16" posts. i haven't been able to find the #2 X 1/4" anywhere
>>yet...
>>
>>any recommended sources?
>>
>>thanks,
>>louis cappucci
>>rv-6a wiring
>>mamaroneck, ny
>
>
>I found some copper lugs at the local automotive electrical supply store.
>You need a crimping tool that you beat to death with a hammer to crimp the
>lug. These aren't cheap, but maybe you could borrow one somewhere.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
I stock both of these sizes an sell them as a kit
with a piece of internal melting wall heatshrink to
dress up the installed terminals. Bash-em crimp tools
are pretty process sensitive - how calibrated is your
hammer blow? Suggest you solder them on using technique
described in . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
The terminals are $1 each.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Louis,
I got mine at a well-stocked auto parts store. It helped when I brought in
a piece of the heavy cable and the battery/starter relays that I was using.
When they saw what I had, they brought out a box full of terminal lugs and
we found the right ones.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF
-----Original Message-----i need a couple of terminals
(lugs) for 2 AWG and 4 AWG wires, connecting to
1/4" and 5/16" posts. i haven't been able to find the #2 X
1/4" anywhere
yet...
any recommended sources?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges |
In a message dated 3/6/2000 11:04:12 AM Tokyo Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> I am getting ready to drill on the longitudinal hinges on my 6A S-cowl. I
> plan on drilling on the lower half with the lower cowl supported by the
side
> and bottom clecoes and the hinge halves pinned together. I have the zipper
> inclined per plans/RVAtor. When I put on the top cowl (all fitted), how do
> I back up the hinge for drilling? I can reach in through the air intake
for
> about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back but after that I have no means of backing
> up the hinge.
Maybe get as far as you can, cleco what you have done, then remove the cowl
half and finish?
Dave Leonard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/6/2000 12:43:52 PM Tokyo Standard Time,
JDaniel343(at)aol.com writes:
>
> I am considering a panel consisting of the appropriate radios, GPS for
> navigation.
> Here is the kicker for engine instruments the Rocky Mountain Monitor and
the
>
> MicroEncoder for Airspeed, VSI, Altitude, OAT. Is this asking to much from
> these istruments for VFR flight. I believe Vans RV-8A uses only the
> MicroEncoder for flight information.
> Your thoughts please.
>
>
I haven't flown yet, but I am installing the same thing. I dont see any
reason why this wont work for VFR fligh. If you plan on being based in the
mountains, or on a short strip you might want to add a backup ASI or ALT.
Dave Leonard
Mazda 13B RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Gear Leg Supports (Thanks) |
Thanks for this advice. It makes me feel a lot better
after a frustrating weekend trying to get my gear leg
mount to line up. I too had drilled my gear mount with
the bottom off. Now I can't get it too line up!!! (at
this point I was wishing I had gone with the tail
dragger!)
--- Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> I've sent Tommy my instructions off line, which are
> also found in the
> archives.
> Just an added note: I drilled the gear mounts before
> the bottom forward skin
> was riveted on. When I mounted the wings, the
> mounts didn't line up!
> It turns out that the bottom skin was a tight fit
> where it wraps around the
> longerons and it actually squeezed the sides in a
> few thousandths! That was
> frustrating.
> Van's said this is a common problem and they
> suggested using a bottle jack
> to spread the sides apart. I chose instead to
> hammer on the weldment flange
> radii to squeeze them in a bit -- it helped.
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
> To: RV-List
> Date: Sunday, March 05, 2000 4:13 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Drilling Gear Leg Supports
>
>
>
> >
> >I will begin setting up for drilling my Gear leg
> supports (6A) tomorrow!
> Any
> >tips or "words of wisdom" from those of you who
> have gone before me?
> >
> >Tommy Walker
> >6A, Ridgetop, TN
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Splitting wheel rims -- how? |
DON'T USE A SCREWDRIVER. Try this : place in freezer overnight,,12 hrs..Then
place the rim on a large heatsink of some sort (turned over large frying pan).
The theory here is differiential expantion. One half will react to the warming
caused by the exit of heat energy (cooling) a little bit quicker than the half
not heatsunk......forcing a sharp non-serated knife into the split may force the
rim apart. It worked for me. I also re-ringed a starter ring to a flywheel and
did the ole heat the ring, freeze the pulley trick. When I went to place the
items together I was amazed at the space the temp. delta produced. As I watched
the space closed to nothing and the starter ring & pulley were one.....
I would not heat your rims because you may join the paint or goop that is
holding the rim........Or, on the otherhand, it might loosen up the goop and
allow a knife to upen up your rims....hmmmm...Thats what beer is for (to drink
-- not seperate wheel halves.)
frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz on 03/04/2000 01:04:46 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Splitting wheel rims -- how?
Hi,
I thought I'd put my tyres and wheels together this evening, but I can't
separate the rim halves.
According to the Orndorff video, they should just come apart after I've
removed the 3 bolts. But they are *very* firmly stuck together. I did
try to use a screwdriver to force them apart, but couldn't get it into
the joint between the halves. Even a knife wouldn't do it.
Is there some trick to this? Or have I just not forced it hard enough?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Injected vs Carb |
I have been looking at some engines for my 6a and have found a pretty good
deal on a Lycoming IO 320 B1A. My questions are, will the fuel injected
model cause me considerable modifications to the cowling? Will the engine
fit? What are the pros and cons of Fuel Injected vs Carberator?
Thanks,
Eric Newton (empennage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
>
> I am considering a panel consisting of the appropriate radios, GPS
> for navigation.
> Here is the kicker for engine instruments the Rocky Mountain Monitor
> and the
> MicroEncoder for Airspeed, VSI, Altitude, OAT. Is this asking to much
> from
> these istruments for VFR flight.
For day VFR, this would probably do fine.
I intend to do the same - except night flight for which I will add a
back up altimeter. If you lose the uEncoder at night, you should be
able to get back on the deck using backup altitude and engine RPM as
airspeed. Once you're familiar with the aircraft, you know what a
particular throttle setting will get you for speeds in the pattern.
YMMV.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: is conduit necessary? |
I have installed aluminum conduit after the wing was assembled. Not wanting to
wait or pay the overpriced price I used aluimun close-line pole holder-uppers.
At the hardware store for $1.98. I primed and cutoff the forkey thing and had
wire conduit done in a Saturday morning. I used adel clamps to secure the (now
aluminum tubing-was hardware store closeline poles) to the interior of the wing.
frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz on 03/05/2000 03:01:11 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: is conduit necessary?
Paul Besing wrote:
> If for whatever reason you need to add wire, repair or whatever, it sure
> would be easier. You can see a picture of the hose I used for conduit at:
Conduit isn't *necessary*, but I think it would be a good idea for the
reasons outlined above.
If you install conduit, it means that you don't need to actually install
the wiring and other electrical stuff until much later in the
construction sequence. That in turn means that you can postpone
decisions on what lighting options to install (strobes, wingtip landing
lights, nav lights) until later. Duckworks LE landing lights should
probably be installed at construction time, although that's not
*necessary* either. And therefore you can postpone purchase of these
expensive items until you've got your finish kit (or even after first
flight).
What you're buying with your conduit is (a) time, and (b) flexibility.
If you *know* what lighting you want to install, and have the money to
buy it, then conduit doesn't gain you the advantages I've suggested.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges |
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges
>>
>> I am getting ready to drill on the longitudinal hinges on my 6A S-cowl.
I plan on drilling on the lower half with the lower cowl supported by the
side and bottom clecoes and the hinge halves pinned together. I have the
zipper inclined per plans/RVAtor. When I put on the top cowl (all fitted),
how do I back up the hinge for drilling? I can reach in through the air
intake for about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back but after that I have no means
of backing up the hinge.
Some times the simplest chores seem the hardest. Predrill your upper hinge.
Put a trouble lamp inside the cowl and you will be able to "see" the holes.
Now you can drill through the fiberglass and hit the holes. Cleco the
drilled holes and you will be surprised at how fast the job will be
completed.
Have fun building.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 Buying radios
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: source for lugs |
In a pinch they can be made. I used soft copper tubing squashed with a vice &
some wood. You can get clever and make a squash die by drilling a med-hard wood
scrap with a step drill or unibit. Cut your coned-out cored scrap in half
lengthwise and use this as your squash die. Took 5 minutes in the garage. I made
a bunch of lugs this way. Not so much as scrimping but EVERYTHING I need I have
to wait for and pay shipping for-one thing at a time (it seems). This was a
enjoyable 5 minutes in the garage so I could continue with the task at hand with
my RV.
AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com on 03/05/2000 12:22:29 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: source for lugs
In a message dated 3/5/00 7:39:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> I haven't been able to find the #2 X 1/4" anywhere
Hi Louis: You can find Lugs on our page @ AAMR/AirCore/Lugs
or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectrr/Page28.html
Or AAMR/AirCore/8
GA. To 4/0 Connectors http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page18.html
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>
>
> the NavAid is a wing leveler with a yaw rate sensor (like that
> found in your turn coordinator) to sense rate and direction
> of turning only. It has no notion of heading.
>
> The internal workings of the NavAid's electronics uses the
> GPS/VOR course error to put a slight bias on what it believes
> is a good way to steer . . . at some point on the horizon
> which the somewhat myopic electronic eyes believe is moving a
> tad.
>
> When you cross a waypoint with a coupled wing leveler, you
> have to uncouple the radio, get set up on a new heading toward
> next waypoint, it wouldn't hurt to reset the GPS receiver to
> make next waypoint good from present position to wash out
> cross track error and only then do you re-couple the radio
> to the wing leveler.
>
FWIW,
My Navaid Devices autopilot does a beautiful job of turning corners when
my course has a jog in it. I have never had it turn more than 30 degrees
or so but on those turns it quickly and without any intervention
establishes itself on the new course line. It is coupled to a UPS panel
mount GPS360.
> Unlike autopilots with directional gyros, the NavAid/Radio
> combination cannot capture a new heading based only on
> turning rate and some cross-track error. I.e. it won't
> capture a new flight path - it will only do a nice job
> of holding a flight path that you've already established.
>
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges |
I drilled the hinge then put a light inside the cowl and placed the light source
dead-nuts opposite the hinge hole. The light cast a shadow thru the cowl & gel
coat & I drilled. Be careful of paralax error. Worked great for me . Cleko as
you go.
VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com on 03/06/2000 08:17:32 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges
In a message dated 3/6/2000 11:04:12 AM Tokyo Standard Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> I am getting ready to drill on the longitudinal hinges on my 6A S-cowl. I
> plan on drilling on the lower half with the lower cowl supported by the
side
> and bottom clecoes and the hinge halves pinned together. I have the zipper
> inclined per plans/RVAtor. When I put on the top cowl (all fitted), how do
> I back up the hinge for drilling? I can reach in through the air intake
for
> about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back but after that I have no means of backing
> up the hinge.
Maybe get as far as you can, cleco what you have done, then remove the cowl
half and finish?
Dave Leonard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
----- Original Message -----
From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2000 3:25 PM
Hi John----I have the nav-aid and it tracks very well;flew from Pit to
Tpa with several way points and it turned at all of them. I seem to remember
that the course width of the GPS has to be set to 1.25 mile or less.
>
> Any help out there?
>
> RV-6A
> Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Rocky Mountian Instruments microEncoder... |
I don't know if any of you are considering this instrument to save panel space
but I highly recommend it. I'm going for the glass cockpit look and decided to
include the microEncoder to my spartan instrument cluster. I decided to go for
the ( build it yourself ) kit and I'm glad I did. I have built my share of
Heath Kits in my youth but almost with out exception have been disappointed with
the end result ( always ended up spending a week trouble shooting before I could
get it to work ). I decided with the microEncoder to go with the kit option and
give myself a break from pounding on aluminum for a change. To make a long
story short, I finished the microEncoder in 1.5 days and it works like a champ.
The kit is easy. RMI puts almost all of the components into cardboard trays for
easy assembly. Even the integrated circuits are stuffed in the shipping tubs in
the order of assembly. If only the Heath Kits had been this well documented and
easy to assemble.
I give this kit two thumbs up.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse...
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
List Companions,
One of my just completed flaps is "touch sensitive." It looks as good as the
other flap, which is tight as a drum, but you can "pop" oilcan the top skin
slightly into one bay so that it bulges slightly in the next bay. It pops
again and returns with removal of the finger force. Should I: 1) Forget it;
2) Adhere a small light stiffener in the sensitive area; 3) Other? Any
chance I've built in a little stall warning drum? Appreciate either your
assurance or suggestion.
Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN
N8VZ (Reserved) -8 wings/bldg backshop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
I was looking at installing the brakes this weekend and have a couple of
questions.
1) The plans show the brake reservoir mounted on the engine side of the
firewall with a hole bored thru the firewall for the Tee and brake lines
to the master cylinders. Is there any reason (other than convenience when
refilling) why the reservoir couldnt be mounted on the cockpit side of the
firewall? Is it prone to leaking?
2) The manual says the brake cylinders are to be mounted with the bleed
nipple pointed down. Are there distinctly different right and left
cylinders? Mine are identical. Or can you remove the bleed nipple on one of
the cylinders and move it to the other side of the cylinder (swap with the
elbow that goes to the brake line)?
Mike Wills
RV4 brakes at the moment
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: source for lugs |
In a message dated 3/6/00 7:42:15 AM Pacific Standard Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
>
> In a pinch they can be made. I used soft copper tubing squashed with a
vice &
>
> some wood. You can get clever and make a squash die by drilling a
med-hard
> wood
> scrap with a step drill or unibit. Cut your coned-out cored scrap in half
> lengthwise and use this as your squash die. Took 5 minutes in the garage.
I
> made
> a bunch of lugs this way. Not so much as scrimping but EVERYTHING I need I
> have
> to wait for and pay shipping for-one thing at a time (it seems). This was a
> enjoyable 5 minutes in the garage so I could continue with the task at
hand
> with
> my RV.
Hi Paul: That's a really good idea. The only thing I would add it is to
solder the seam in the end of the tube after you squash it and drill the
hole. Doing that will stop any corrosion/moisture from wicking up into the
connector and into your cable.
Regards,
John @ AAMR/AirCore/Mar
ineCore
(Chick the blue link to go there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges |
>
>I am getting ready to drill on the longitudinal hinges on my 6A S-cowl. I
>plan on drilling on the lower half with the lower cowl supported by the side
>and bottom clecoes and the hinge halves pinned together. I have the zipper
>inclined per plans/RVAtor. When I put on the top cowl (all fitted), how do
>I back up the hinge for drilling? I can reach in through the air intake for
>about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back but after that I have no means of backing
>up the hinge.
>What have others done?
>Thanks.
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL C38
Dennis,
Besides reaching through the inlets, you may be able to use a stick
inserted from the lower cowl scoop exit to bear down on the hinge while
someone else drills the hinge. If you're working by yourself, you could
use double sided carpet tape on the back of the top hinge, stick it down
with pressure from a stick inserted from below and then drill. I would not
remove the top cowl to finish drilling the hinge. Too much chance for
error. Also, if you drill each hole as you progress aft and insert a
cleco, the hinge will deflect very little as you drill the new hole. This
is probably a good place to use a new bit.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocky Mountian Instruments microEncoder... |
Jim,
I agree completely!
Finished their MicroMonitor - Thanks Scott G - for the original
recommendation. It wasn't hard (but I did have a lighted magnafing lamp) and
it works like a champ (I'm still super impressed with all it's
finctionality).
Just finished the MicroEncoder Display board, last night.
Both products - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
>From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Rocky Mountian Instruments microEncoder...
>Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 09:35:27 -0600
>
>
>I don't know if any of you are considering this instrument to save panel
>space
>but I highly recommend it. I'm going for the glass cockpit look and
>decided to
>include the microEncoder to my spartan instrument cluster. I decided to go
>for
>the ( build it yourself ) kit and I'm glad I did. I have built my share of
>Heath Kits in my youth but almost with out exception have been disappointed
>with
>the end result ( always ended up spending a week trouble shooting before I
>could
>get it to work ). I decided with the microEncoder to go with the kit
>option and
>give myself a break from pounding on aluminum for a change. To make a long
>story short, I finished the microEncoder in 1.5 days and it works like a
>champ.
>The kit is easy. RMI puts almost all of the components into cardboard
>trays for
>easy assembly. Even the integrated circuits are stuffed in the shipping
>tubs in
>the order of assembly. If only the Heath Kits had been this well
>documented and
>easy to assemble.
>
>I give this kit two thumbs up.
>
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse...
>N89JA ( reserved )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller |
Alternative to the MT is a Whirl Wind prop.....made in the USA and although
I did not get a prop from them I did buy a gov. Very nice people and they
provided good service. Cheaper than the MT also. They have a website.
C.H.
----------
> From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: MT Propeller
> Date: Sunday, March 05, 2000 6:53 PM
>
>
> With all the talk about the MT Propeller, I wondered
> if they had a web site. Guess what I found?
>
> http://www.mt-propeller.com/
>
> Please report back to the list with the price when you
> find out how much one costs for the O-320 / O-360.
>
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> Flying So. CA, USA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
You answered the problem your self. The inlets and outlet holes are
identical and you can swap to place in the proper location.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Wills <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Date: Monday, March 06, 2000 10:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV4 brakes
>
> I was looking at installing the brakes this weekend and have a couple of
>questions.
>
>1) The plans show the brake reservoir mounted on the engine side of the
>firewall with a hole bored thru the firewall for the Tee and brake lines
>to the master cylinders. Is there any reason (other than convenience when
>refilling) why the reservoir couldnt be mounted on the cockpit side of the
>firewall? Is it prone to leaking?
>
>2) The manual says the brake cylinders are to be mounted with the bleed
>nipple pointed down. Are there distinctly different right and left
>cylinders? Mine are identical. Or can you remove the bleed nipple on one of
>the cylinders and move it to the other side of the cylinder (swap with the
>elbow that goes to the brake line)?
>
>Mike Wills
>RV4 brakes at the moment
>willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Observations on priming (long) |
I have just completed priming my wing kit and would like to share my experiences
with my type of primer, spraying method, weight penalty and general observations.
In the past for my tail kit I used Marhyde single stage, self-etching primer in
a rattle can. I loved it. It went on quickly and evenly, dried fast (two minutes),
was very clean and convenient (no mixing or cleaning) and was very tough
when dry. I would probably still be using this brand if it wasn't for the
price, $15.00 for a 17oz can. If I remember correctly I used four cans on the
tail kit.
When it came time to prime the wing kit I calculated that it would probably take
me fifteen cans to cover everything. $225.00 was a little more than I would
like to spend on a process that many builders say is unnecessary (but we won't
get into that). I knew with the Marhyde that I was paying for packaging and
propellant, so I started looking into mixing my own and shooting it with a spray
gun. After MUCH research into primers I decided on Deft two-part water based
epoxy primer.
Deft developed their primer for the military to replace zinc-chromate. The government
wanted a non-chromate, corrosion inhibiting, chemical resistant primer.
I think the Deft passed every test except the resistance to hydraulic fluids,
but don't quote me on this. I do know for sure that this stuff is TOUGH.
It mixes like this: 12.5% catalyst - 25% base - 62.5% water, by volume.
I purchased the HVLP spray gun from harbor freight for $39.99. This was the first
time I had ever used a spray gun before. My first spray session was almost
my last, I never knew I could come up with so many four letter words! After
I calmed down and before the second session I took the time to read the instructions
and adjust the controls on the gun. What I found out was that all those
knobs are there for a reason (and not just to make the gun look 'cool'). So
I apologized to the gun for insulting it's capabilities and went on to my second,
third and fourth priming sessions and everything was flawless. Well, not
exactly flawless, I wish I had checked my e-mail a day earlier so that I could
take advantage of Gary Zilik's advice on spaying small parts on a mesh screen
to prevent blowing them all over the place.
So after priming EVERY piece of the wing kit (minus the main spar and tank pieces)
I went through three quarters of a gallon of mixed primer. The kit that I
bought for $125.00 is able to provide four gallons of mixed primer. So I spent
a total of $23.50 to prime my entire wing kit. Not bad compared to $225.00
the old way. Calculating the weight penalty is a little tricky and I have made
some assumptions:
3/4 gallon of primer @ 8.34 lb/gallon = 6.25 lb
6.25 lb - 15% for overspray = 5.31 lb
since the mix is 62.5% water I have assumed that most of that will evaporate while
the primer cures.
5.31 - 50% = 2.66 lb
So I think it is safe to say that the weight penalty is 3-5 lbs for priming everything
(structure and skins) in the wing kit.
In conclusion, I like the water based Deft primer. If cleaned up before drying
it wipes up with water, it covers well, and after drying it is rock hard. I
would also like to note that I chemically etched (alodine) some pieces and mechanically
etched (scotch-brite) other pieces, but I left one rib un-etched just
to test the adhesion of the Deft primer. The primer bonded to the un-etched
just as well as it did to the etched areas. When I say 'bonded well' I mean
'there is nothing I can do, short of filing, to get this stuff to come off'.
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (finally going to put these wings together for the last time!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller/Whirlwind Prop |
Can anyone supply a URL for the other Whirlwind prop....anyone have any thoughts
on it?
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com on 03/05/2000 07:53:43 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: MT Propeller
With all the talk about the MT Propeller, I wondered
if they had a web site. Guess what I found?
http://www.mt-propeller.com/
Please report back to the list with the price when you
find out how much one costs for the O-320 / O-360.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop & Propellers |
Search on "Speed Breaks" for more data on props. ( For future searching of
archives)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Alert] |
You would think they would have to tell you that they had a landing fee
before you landed.
scot
>
>This thread re landing fees.....it was mentioned that KPUB Pueblo, CO has a
>landing fee....not so...I was was just there and there is no landing
>fee...at least not for non commercial folks like us....for air carriers,
>certainly.
>RV6A Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injected vs Carb |
Check with Vans. The IO320 B1A is off a twin Comanchee and has a aft
induction system. Will not work on 8.
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop |
I am finding it difficult to get the Hartzell C/S prop torqued to the 60-70
ft-lb value. I have tried two different crow's feet and still can't get
even a small-headed Snap-On torque wrench to clear the prop hub. Just to
get calibrated, I set my Craftsman torque wrench to 70 ft-lbs and restrained
the 1/2 drive end in a vise. The arm is 18 inches, so I need only exert 47
lbs of force to achieve the 70 ft lbs. If I tighten with a 3/4 open-end
wrench with an effective 8 inch arm, I have to exert 105 lbs of force -- way
more than I can muster up!
So how do others torque the prop? Is there a super-long crow's foot (1/2
drive) that I don't know about?
Thanks!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller |
In a message dated 3/6/2000 10:27:24 AM Central Standard Time,
clhuey(at)sprynet.com writes:
<< Alternative to the MT is a Whirl Wind prop.....made in the USA and although
I did not get a prop from them I did buy a gov. Very nice people and they
provided good service. Cheaper than the MT also. They have a website.
C.H. >>
I am looking for a prop for my f1 rocket and when i requested info from
whirlwind all i got was basically them saying its the best prop put there.
No real reasons why. Mt props are similair in price. I cant remember off
hand but if you buy from team rocket the price of the MT is within a few
hundred dollars of the Whirlwind prop. I just wish i could afford a hartzel
3 blade composite.
chris wilcox
f-1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injected vs Carb |
You can swap the sump & risers and get around your problem and keep the engine
for your project.. Be sure to check with the exhaust vender but I don't see any
problems if you convert your sump to something commonplace. I think this is a
conical mount.....still I see no problems here either .. ... Phil C. RV-4 with
O-320-B2C
N188sm(at)cs.com on 03/06/2000 12:28:03 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Injected vs Carb
Check with Vans. The IO320 B1A is off a twin Comanchee and has a aft
induction system. Will not work on 8.
Stan Mehrhoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
Dennis,
There are two ways that I have used. I have a "special" wrench which is
two 3/4" wrenches welded together to be 1.3' in length. I put a spring
scale in the end and pull the appropriate amount. For a while I was the
only one on the airport that could actually torque Hartzell prop.
The other method involves a Snap-On Torque wrench. There is a model that
you can remove the rachet on the end and put a crows foot straight in.
Last time I did it we used this method and it works easier than pulling
on the spring scale, but I am sure it is more expensive.
Bruce Green
writes:
>
>
> I am finding it difficult to get the Hartzell C/S prop torqued to
> the 60-70
> ft-lb value. I have tried two different crow's feet and still can't
> get
> even a small-headed Snap-On torque wrench to clear the prop hub.
> Just to
> get calibrated, I set my Craftsman torque wrench to 70 ft-lbs and
> restrained
> the 1/2 drive end in a vise. The arm is 18 inches, so I need only
> exert 47
> lbs of force to achieve the 70 ft lbs. If I tighten with a 3/4
> open-end
> wrench with an effective 8 inch arm, I have to exert 105 lbs of
> force -- way
> more than I can muster up!
> So how do others torque the prop? Is there a super-long crow's foot
> (1/2
> drive) that I don't know about?
> Thanks!
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop |
If you place an extension on the torque wrench that fits in the location
that extends the length, it will be even less than the real 47# of the 18"
torque wrench. I have a similar problem with my Aeromatic prop hub. I use
a combination wrench that fits both on the Bolt head and can be driven with
the 1/2" torque wrench drive. I re-figured the effective lever arm so I
could tell how much the indication would be for my desired torque. Since I
was trying for about 30 foot-pounds, I put my adapter on at right angles so
the indicator was very close. If I extended it out the effective length
would be much greater so the indication would be much smaller.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Monday, March 06, 2000 12:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop
>
>I am finding it difficult to get the Hartzell C/S prop torqued to the 60-70
>ft-lb value. I have tried two different crow's feet and still can't get
>even a small-headed Snap-On torque wrench to clear the prop hub. Just to
>get calibrated, I set my Craftsman torque wrench to 70 ft-lbs and
restrained
>the 1/2 drive end in a vise. The arm is 18 inches, so I need only exert 47
>lbs of force to achieve the 70 ft lbs. If I tighten with a 3/4 open-end
>wrench with an effective 8 inch arm, I have to exert 105 lbs of force --
way
>more than I can muster up!
>So how do others torque the prop? Is there a super-long crow's foot (1/2
>drive) that I don't know about?
>Thanks!
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Turn & Bank Coordinator |
A= 12volts
B= grd
C= not used
This is from lelectric bob's diagram.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
****************************************************************************
writes:
>
>
>Lister's,
>
>I bought a T&B from Century Instruments of Wichita KS. The unit has a
>3 pin
>connector, MS3106A10S-3S. I don't have a wiring diagram. Does anyone
>know
>what pin is + & -. Any advise would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks.....Mark
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Dallas, TX
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Splitting wheel rims -- how? |
Try a leather hammer. or wood.
I would not pry.
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
****************************************************************************
writes:
>
>Hi,
>
>I thought I'd put my tyres and wheels together this evening, but I
>can't
>separate the rim halves.
>
>According to the Orndorff video, they should just come apart after
>I've
>removed the 3 bolts. But they are *very* firmly stuck together. I did
>try to use a screwdriver to force them apart, but couldn't get it into
>the joint between the halves. Even a knife wouldn't do it.
>
>Is there some trick to this? Or have I just not forced it hard enough?
>
>Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Whirl Wind Propellers URL |
http://whirlwindpropellers.com/ is the URL , below is the URL for MT.
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com on 03/05/2000 07:53:43 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: MT Propeller
With all the talk about the MT Propeller, I wondered
if they had a web site. Guess what I found?
http://www.mt-propeller.com/
Please report back to the list with the price when you
find out how much one costs for the O-320 / O-360.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Thank you to all that have helped me in the past. Good luck to all that I have
helped. I have out-grown the need, nor do I have time, to participate on the list.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Observations on priming (long) |
Scott Kuebler wrote:
> I have just completed priming my wing kit. In the past for my tail kit >I used
Marhyde single stage, self-etching primer in a rattle can. I >loved it.
Me too!
> When it came time to prime the wing kit I calculated that it would >probably
take me fifteen cans to cover everything. $225.00 was a little >more than I would
like to spend on a process that many builders say is >unnecessary (but we
won't get into that). I knew with the Marhyde that >I was paying for packaging
and propellant(snip)
I buy Marhyde in 1 qt. cans (#5112 I think) at the local auto body
supply for about $18, shoot it with the same gun you're using- ain't it
great?!
> Scott Kuebler
> Buffalo, NY
> RV-6a (finally going to put these wings together for the last time!)
Yeah, right! I've been saying THAT for about 3 months now!!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A -gotta take skins off again to rig aileron pushrod...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 Battery Cabling - Aft Mounted Battery |
Van's recommendations for the battery cable routing for the aft mounted
battery seems a bit clunky. Anyone come up with a better way of running the
cable? Where did you go thorough the spar?
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR |
Definitely, look to the Mooney 201, they have the same system to copy. I
installed an IO360 with RAM and alternate air.
Stephan
SALNED71(at)aol.com schrieb:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: SALNED71(at)aol.com
>
> HAVE ANY OF THE FINISHED RV-8'S INSTALLED AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE WITH FUEL
> INJECTION. IF THE RAM AIR SOURCE WAS PLUGGED FOR SOME STRANGE REASON,
> (BIRD, ICE ) WOULDN'T AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE BE NEEDED??
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Gary,
Sorry to see you go and I know about how much of a time sink
reading just the articles one is interested in becomes.
Good luck with your flying and hope to see you again perhaps
over the summer.
Thanks for your help in answering my questions and a ride in
your RV.
Paul Bilodeau
----------
> From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Final Post
> Date: Monday, March 06, 2000 3:06 PM
>
>
> Thank you to all that have helped me in the past. Good luck to all that I
have helped. I have out-grown the need, nor do I have time, to participate
on the list.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Battery Cabling - Aft Mounted Battery |
Don,
We didn't go through the spar. We ran the cable just under the Left canopy
channel and right into the Left side of the forward baggage compartment.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
>From: Rv8don(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8list(at)onelist.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 Battery Cabling - Aft Mounted Battery
>Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 15:53:50 EST
>
>
>Van's recommendations for the battery cable routing for the aft mounted
>battery seems a bit clunky. Anyone come up with a better way of running
>the
>cable? Where did you go thorough the spar?
>
>-Don
>RV8 NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirl Wind Propellers URL |
> With all the talk about the MT Propeller, I wondered
> if they had a web site. Guess what I found?
>
> http://www.mt-propeller.com/
>
> Please report back to the list with the price when you
> find out how much one costs for the O-320 / O-360.
Oooooo..... I like that MTV-17.
No contact yet.
I'll guess $4K USD.
:(
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR |
My Mooney M20-E had a spring loaded alt air door. The theory was if impact air
was blocked a suction would pull open a spring loaded trap door and not let the
engine air-starve.
romeo.victor@t-online.de on 03/06/2000 04:08:22 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 ALTERNATE AIR
Definitely, look to the Mooney 201, they have the same system to copy. I
installed an IO360 with RAM and alternate air.
Stephan
SALNED71(at)aol.com schrieb:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: SALNED71(at)aol.com
>
> HAVE ANY OF THE FINISHED RV-8'S INSTALLED AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE WITH FUEL
> INJECTION. IF THE RAM AIR SOURCE WAS PLUGGED FOR SOME STRANGE REASON,
> (BIRD, ICE ) WOULDN'T AN ALTERNATE AIR SOURCE BE NEEDED??
>
>
Stephan Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
>
>FWIW,
>
>My Navaid Devices autopilot does a beautiful job of turning corners when
>my course has a jog in it. I have never had it turn more than 30 degrees
>or so but on those turns it quickly and without any intervention
>establishes itself on the new course line. It is coupled to a UPS panel
>mount GPS360.
>
>> Unlike autopilots with directional gyros, the NavAid/Radio
>> combination cannot capture a new heading based only on
>> turning rate and some cross-track error. I.e. it won't
>> capture a new flight path - it will only do a nice job
>> of holding a flight path that you've already established.
>>
>
>Larry Pardue
Larry,
Just out of curiousity, do you happen to know what CDI scaling the
GPS was set to?
Currently available, IFR capable GPS units should have three
different CDI scalings: 5 nm full scale, 1 nm full scale, and 0.3 nm
full scale. Generally speaking, IFR units default to the 5 nm
setting for enroute, then switch to 1 nm in the terminal area (often
defined as within 30 nm of the destination), and then switch to 0.3
nm approaching the Final Approach Fix (if you are doing an approach).
I've bought a Navaid unit, but it looks to be at least a couple of
years before I get to see how it works.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ok, now >I'VE< gone and done it |
> After all the research and dreaming, preparation and
> planning, all I feel now is a sort of emptiness -- a mix of trepidation
> and curiosity, of uncertainty and resolve. It is no longer a theoretical
> concept. I don't know where this will lead, only that I am now committed;
> I am going to build an airplane.
>
> -Steve
>
I'm right there with you brother......I know EXACTLY what you mean.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> I am finding it difficult to get the Hartzell C/S prop torqued to the 60-70
> ft-lb value. I have tried two different crow's feet and still can't get
> even a small-headed Snap-On torque wrench to clear the prop hub. Just to
> get calibrated, I set my Craftsman torque wrench to 70 ft-lbs and restrained
> the 1/2 drive end in a vise. The arm is 18 inches, so I need only exert 47
> lbs of force to achieve the 70 ft lbs. If I tighten with a 3/4 open-end
> wrench with an effective 8 inch arm, I have to exert 105 lbs of force -- way
> more than I can muster up!
> So how do others torque the prop? Is there a super-long crow's foot (1/2
> drive) that I don't know about?
> Thanks!
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
>
Dennis, you'll need to get the crows foot from MAC tools. They have an
"extended" crows foot that works perfectly. No other source I've looked at can
do the trick.
Chuck Brietigam--RV-3
name="brietigam.vcf"
filename="brietigam.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Chuck Brietigam;Chuck
tel;home:502-254-5079
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:brietigam(at)earthlink.net
fn:Chuck Brietigam
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>>
>>FWIW,
>>
>>My Navaid Devices autopilot does a beautiful job of turning corners when
>>my course has a jog in it. I have never had it turn more than 30 degrees
>>or so but on those turns it quickly and without any intervention
>>establishes itself on the new course line. It is coupled to a UPS panel
>>mount GPS360.
>>
>>> Unlike autopilots with directional gyros, the NavAid/Radio
>>> combination cannot capture a new heading based only on
>>> turning rate and some cross-track error. I.e. it won't
>>> capture a new flight path - it will only do a nice job
>>> of holding a flight path that you've already established.
>>>
>>
>>Larry Pardue
>
>Larry,
>
>Just out of curiousity, do you happen to know what CDI scaling the
>GPS was set to?
>
My GPS is set to 1 nautical mile CDI scaling.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
> When you cross a waypoint with a coupled wing leveler, you
> have to uncouple the radio, get set up on a new heading toward
> next waypoint, it wouldn't hurt to reset the GPS receiver to
> make next waypoint good from present position to wash out
> cross track error and only then do you re-couple the radio
> to the wing leveler.
Not true, in my experience. My Navaid handles waypoints (with
heading changes) with little overshoot. It can't anticipate turns, but it
follows the needle off-course signal around the corner pretty well. It's
a pleasure to watch.
I've also set up a course in the GPS, flown a bit off course, and let the
Navaid capture the the desired course and track it dead on.
Last night I tried a GPS course set up at 180 degrees from current
heading. That was beyond the Navaid's capability. Navaid flew a
huge circle, but since it has no internal heading reference it just kept
turning in a circle.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilotrv6a(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop |
Mac Tools have one that will work I'm pretty sure that is what I used.
Sherman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
I guess I started this NavAid thread, and appreciate ALL comments...NavAid
was of no help whatever when I call them asking for help in getting my
Lowarnce GPS and NavAid to track a programmed flight course.
Lowrance doesn't have a controllable output for course width, and the NavAid
instructions of how to determine and to set its course width are vague, and
the "technical support" was non-existent when I asked them why it didn't
follow the instruction book. The man said, "I just copied that from them
(Porcine)"
Did any of you happy owners of NavAid have difficulty in adjusting the
'SPAN' and 'Range' controls which seem to interact a lot? Mine adjusted OK
for wing leveler and the thing does work in heading mode, and does track a
GPS course right up until the first dog leg...then all bets are off.
Also does the HEADING/COURSE switch on the coupler react as called
out in the instruction book for setting course width? (That described
holding the switch one way or the other, turning on the unit, counting the
blinks after the start up blinking has quit) Mine is so vague and all I
can get is continuous blinking of the green bulb....the NavAid "technical"
person just said, "When I tried it it worked fine" boy does that help!
RV6A Salida, C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | airflow performance - purge valve |
What size is the return line and can it plumb to the tank breather (WHERE TO
TIE IN).
thanks, MikeW
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay [mailto:ebowhay(at)shuswap.net]
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: airflow performance - purge valve
I have been watching but haven't seen any replies on this subject. I have
just recently installed one on my Bendix injected 0360.
For those who are not completely familiar with the AFP purge valve it was
designed to allow you to pump fuel with the boost pump through the entire
fuel injection system excluding the flow divider on top of the engine. It is
connected to the flow divider and has a lever when pulled shuts of the fuel
to the flow divider and diverts all the fuel through a return line back to a
tank.
I use it on every start cold or hot using the following procedure.
1 Purge valve on
2 Mixture full rich
3 Throttle wide
4 Boost pump on for 15-20 seconds
( When you get used to it at this point you could close the purge valve
set the throttle and start .)
5 Boost pump off
6 Mixture closed
7 Throttle closed
8 Purge valve off
Then start in the normal manner.
What you have done is pump a quantity of fuel through the whole system
without injecting any into the cylinders.If the the aircraft has not been
flown for some time you now have the system purged and full of fuel. On a
hot start the system is purged of all vapor and is full of cool fuel.
Have added some answers to the questions below.
-----Original Message-----
From: Louis Cappucci <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 6:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: airflow performance - purge valve
>
>listers,
>
>for those of you with the airflow performance fuel injection with purge
>valve, i have a series of questions:
>
> what kind of cable are you using to control the purge valve? where did you
>put it? (i am thinking friction lock, next to a vernier mixture control...)
I used a button lock control installed on my sub panel beside my heat
controls. Felt the button type would prevent acidentally pulling it. The
control is part # A-700 from ACS. Could also install a spring on the purge
valve that will keep it off in the event of a control failure.
>how did you plumb the return line from the purge valve? what size hose? (i
>am thinking of using one of the vent lines...)
Plumbed it back to the left hand tank using # 4 line to the firewall.
>how often do you use the purge valve? is it effective on hot starts? do
you
>shutdown with mixture or purge? is it worth installing?
You can use either one to shut down. By using the purge valve to shut down
this prevents any pressure build up in the system.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
>thanks,
>louis cappucci
>rv-6a qb finish kit
>mamaroneck, ny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | How to Pass 3 Cables Thru 1 Hole |
Listers,
I asked how to pass 3 bowden cables through one hole a couple of days ago.
Thanks to the two responders (one public, one off-list)...
In any case, here's how you do it (in the end, I figured it out myself):
1) Buy one of the $25 eyeball fittings from Aircraft Spruce or equivalent.
These fittings come with a center hole for common cable sizes. The hole size
in the one for my 3/16" OD cable was 0.188". This fitting is shown on Page
150 of the new ACS catalog.
2) Drill two additional 3/16" holes in the eyeball fitting. The holes need
to be drilled in the split between the two eyeball halves, and should be
parallel to the center hole. If you're carefull, you will be able to achieve
a 9/32 dimension between hole centers and have both of the new holes in the
flat face of the eyeball. This leaves 3/32" wall thickness between holes.
It is skinny, but this isn't a structural application.
The eyeball fitting allows you to angle your cables through the firewall, as
opposed to traditional grommet and shield installations which "like"
perpendicular penetrations. Finally, one eyeball fitting isn't much more
expensive than 3 grommet shields, requires fewer holes through the firewall,
and takes up less real estate.
My contribution for the day...
Kyle Boatright
Slogging through systems installation....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
>>
>>
>>>
>>>FWIW,
>>>
>>>My Navaid Devices autopilot does a beautiful job of turning corners when
>>>my course has a jog in it. I have never had it turn more than 30 degrees
>>>or so but on those turns it quickly and without any intervention
>>>establishes itself on the new course line. It is coupled to a UPS panel
> >>mount GPS360.
>>>
>
> >>Larry Pardue
>>
>>Larry,
>>
>>Just out of curiousity, do you happen to know what CDI scaling the
>>GPS was set to?
>>
>
>My GPS is set to 1 nautical mile CDI scaling.
>
>Larry Pardue
Larry,
It might be interesting next time you are flying to try a little
science experiment. Set your CDI scaling to 5 nm, and see how the
Navaid turns corners at waypoints. I suspect many GPS units default
to 5 nm scaling, and that may greatly affect how it does. All the
Navaid sees is CDI deviation, and yaw rate. If the CDI starts to
deviate, it should make an aileron input to achieve a yaw rate
proportional to the amount of CDI deviation. The only feedback it
gets as to how it is doing is when the CDI scaling starts to decrease
again. This creates a feedback loop type control system. But, with
different CDI scalings, you have greatly changed the gain in the
feedback loop. So, maybe it works good at one CDI scaling, but not
another. Just a thought.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Compass For RV6-A |
List: I am going to mount my compass on the glare shield as the panel (IFR)
will be full.
My question is has anyone to date found a compass that can handle the
magnetic interference inside the slider and be of operational use?
Anyone tried a Mooney Compass ? As we know the canopy frame work
seems to mimic the Bermuda Triangle !
Thanks Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 804 BULKHEAD |
Closing up the 804 I assume you mean pop riveting on the inside cover. I
waited until the bitter end to do this part although hindsight says I could
have done it once my wiring etc. was done. Just make sure you're done with
everything you need to do in there. Don't forget that if you haven't
riveted on the forward topskin yet that you have to get in there to buck a
couple rivets.
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>I HAVE 99% OF MY WIRING DONE, THE THROTTLE QUADRANT IS IN, THE MANUAL AILERON
>TRIM IS IN, IS IT WISE TO CLOSE UP THE 804 BULKHEAD NOW OR WAIT UNTIL A LATER
>DATE??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 ENGINE INSTALLATION |
You should probably have a good idea of how you're going to lay things
out. There is plenty of room between the engine and firewall on the 8 to
be able to work in there. I did cut the hole for the cabin heat and had my
battery tray mounted prior to installing the engine.
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>I'M ABOUT TO MOUNT MY NEW AO360A1A ENGINE WITH AIR-FLOW PERFORMANCE INJECTION
>AND LAZAR IGNITION TO MY RV-8. IS THERE ANY THING I SHOULD MOUNT TO THE
>FIREWALL BEFORE I MOUNT THE ENGINE??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
>Larry/Kevin--
>
>There must be some confusion between Navaid Instruments and its sales
>force or the the way they are being wired to a directional unit (VOR,
>LORAN, GPS). I called the Navaid folks, today, and they said their unit
>is capable of following a waypoint direction change if coupled to a GPS.
> One RV6A owner who has a Navaid unit that's maybe two years old says he
>has to manually steer to each new course change and then reset the Navaid.
>
>Is there more than one model of Navaid?
I've been getting a lot of feedback on this topic and it seems
that most folk are getting satisfactory capture of a next
segment course . . . I'm getting a sense that the size of
cross-track error for full scale output from the radio to
the NavAid steering input is a big variable.
The Porcine adapter looks at raw digital data which is
calculated cross-track error and puts out a proportional
DC value. Some radios may have variable gains depending on
distance from waypoint or whether or not you're in the approach
mode.
This is a case where mix-n-match of radio/autopilot and even
airframe may produce unsatisfactory performance. I recall
a LOT of fussing with the early Cessna wing levelers to get
good VOR tracking performance. Many folk report statisfactory
performance with the Nav-Aid so I have to believe that it's
possible with all combinations once the proper gain is
deduced and incorporated.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More Prop Questions |
If anyone out there is still interested in an aerobatic prop I have one for
sale. It's a Hartzell pn # HC-C2YK-4CF/FC7666A-2, I also have a Hartzell
aerobatic governor pn# F6-3A and an all metal spinner assembly for the
counterweighted prop. All have only 115 hours since new and are in like new
condition. I will sell all for $6,900.
Contact me off list if interested or for more detail
gilthe1(at)aol.com or call 352-347-8113
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | oil cooler fittings-a0360a1a |
WHAT OIL COOLER FITTINGS DO I NEED FOR THIS ENGINE, SO I CAN GET THEM
INSTALLED BEFORE I MOUNT THE ENGINE???
THANKS
ED KOWALSKI ... #80127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Use of RTV impregnated fibreglas for engine baffling |
Some canard builders are using RTV impregnated fibreglas to make some
parts of the engine baffling. I had heard this awhile ago, but never
took much notice because I couldn't figure how it could be better
than plain old aluminum, and I couldn't stand the thought of that "F"
word. Well, I just ran into a description and lots of photos at:
http://www.geocities.com/snipyjo/pix/baffling/
Unfortunately he doesn't seem to have a web page pointing to this
stuff, so this link will just get you a listing of all the files in
that directory. You want the description at:
http://www.geocities.com/snipyjo/pix/baffling/how_to.txt
The more interesting pictures are:
http://www.geocities.com/snipyjo/pix/baffling/123jm_baffling_015.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/snipyjo/pix/baffling/123jm_baffling_004.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/snipyjo/pix/baffling/123jm_baffling_006.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/snipyjo/pix/baffling/123jm_baffling_013.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/snipyjo/pix/baffling/123jm_baffling_016.jpg
This looks like it would make sure that every molecule of air went
through the fins, giving the best cooling for the least amount of
airflow (and drag). Now I just have to figure a way to make it look
like aluminum :-)
I'm certainly no expert on engine baffling, since I don't even own an
engine yet. So, this could all be a real stupid idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop |
Dennis, I used the snap-on click type torque wrench. Worked fine but on
the last one, I accidently caught the hub without knowing & broke the open
end wrench part. So, as you know, be very careful not to catch the hub &
the snap on will work.
Rick Caldwell
29.9 hrs. -6
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop
>Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 11:33:50 -0600
>
>
>I am finding it difficult to get the Hartzell C/S prop torqued to the 60-70
>ft-lb value. I have tried two different crow's feet and still can't get
>even a small-headed Snap-On torque wrench to clear the prop hub. Just to
>get calibrated, I set my Craftsman torque wrench to 70 ft-lbs and
>restrained
>the 1/2 drive end in a vise. The arm is 18 inches, so I need only exert 47
>lbs of force to achieve the 70 ft lbs. If I tighten with a 3/4 open-end
>wrench with an effective 8 inch arm, I have to exert 105 lbs of force --
>way
>more than I can muster up!
>So how do others torque the prop? Is there a super-long crow's foot (1/2
>drive) that I don't know about?
>Thanks!
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
Tom,
You may want to check out the SIRS compass, available as a panel or
glareshield versions. We are panel mounting ours. There was a writeup on the
SIRS compass in Febuary 2000 issue of AOPAPilot.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
>From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 20:47:06 -0500
>
>
>List: I am going to mount my compass on the glare shield as the panel (IFR)
>will be full.
> My question is has anyone to date found a compass that can handle
>the
>magnetic interference inside the slider and be of operational use?
> Anyone tried a Mooney Compass ? As we know the canopy frame work
>seems to mimic the Bermuda Triangle !
> Thanks Tom in
>Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Observations on priming (long) |
Even cheaper by the gallon. Paid $60.00/gal. for the Marhyde
at the local auto paint supply.
Mike Mckenna RV-8
> I buy Marhyde in 1 qt. cans (#5112 I think) at the local auto body
> supply for about $18, shoot it with the same gun you're using- ain't it
> great?!
>
> > Scott Kuebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges |
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Longitudinal Cowl Hinges
>
>Once I got the holes that you can reach that you mentioned, I took it off
>and drilled one hole towards the back of the cowl. Just a random place to
>hold the hinge on. Then I put it back on and finished the drilling. Fill
>the original hole, and you are all set.
If you drill the remainder of the holes inline on the hinge , and do as
Paul suggests, you can then back drill the cowl thru the hinge holes.
Derek Reed 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | nav-aid/gpd tracking |
I have been using a lowrance 300/nav-aid for several years, six US
crossings. My nav-aid does that little stick joggle when it crosses a way
point. I haven't had the problem of loosing the course however. When I
first got it installed I tried various scenerios and found that it could
follow even a 90 degree intercept of the gps course, although that extreme
case took several oscillations before it tracked correctly. On a typical
cross-country trip you rarely have 90 degree waypoints, assuming you are
trying to get somewhere in the least amount of time. I have had the
autopilot loose the signal before(as indicated by a lack of the green light
being lit) and it just keeps on flying level, but who knows where. When
first telling the nav-aid to follow a new course I have experienced it
wanting to bank off heading. I believe it takes perhaps 10-20 seconds for
the gyro to settle down. Try using the wing leveler mode for 20 seconds
flying along the desired course. Switch to track mode to light the green
light. Then flip it from wing leveler to tracking mode mode. This should
result in no stick joggle.
For as many of these units that the RV'rs buy I'm surprised that the
Nav-aid people have so little experience using their own equipment. But
despite that I find the nav-aid the best option, along with the gps, that I
have bought. It paid for itself one night when I went IMC just two miles
from home(I have no other gyros). Kevin -6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric vs manual elevator trim |
Check out my website. I offer an electric elevator trim system installation kit
that is suitable for either a retrofit or new built electric trim system. The
address to the website is www.gretzaero.com
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
Leif Butler wrote:
>
> I am having a difficult time deciding whether to order my RV-6 tail with the
> electric or manual trim and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
>
> Leif Butler
> getting ready to begin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Observations on priming (long) |
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Kuebler [SMTP:skuebler(at)cannondesign.com]
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 11:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Observations on priming (long)
In the past for my tail kit I used Marhyde single stage, self-etching
primer in a rattle can. I loved it. It went on quickly and evenly, dried
fast (two minutes), was very clean and convenient (no mixing or cleaning)
and was very tough when dry. I would probably still be using this brand if
it wasn't for the price, $15.00 for a 17oz can. If I remember correctly I
used four cans on the tail kit.
When it came time to prime the wing kit I calculated that it would probably
take me fifteen cans to cover everything. $225.00 was a little more than I
would like to spend on a process that many builders say is unnecessary (but
we won't get into that). I knew with the Marhyde that I was paying for
packaging and propellant, so I started looking into mixing my own and
shooting it with a spray gun. After MUCH research into primers I decided
on Deft two-part water based epoxy primer.
Marhyde can be purchased in quarts and gallons for use in spray guns if you
like.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Forward Side Skins on 8 |
Listers:
After fitting and drilling the bottom skin and lower longerons I started on
the forward side skins tonight. But to my dismay, they didn't fit. If I
line up the bottom then the opposite top doesn't fit and vice versa.
Any suggestions or ideas on where I may have rigged wrong. The forward
bottom skin is drilled and fits fine.
Len
RV-8A, fuselage
North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
In a message dated 3/6/00 6:09:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
<< My question is has anyone to date found a compass that can handle the
magnetic interference inside the slider and be of operational use? >>
My Precision Vertical Card compass is hanging from the stainless steel center
tube on my 6A and works very well. Some of the builders that have had
problems have had to degauss their rollover bars.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler fittings-a0360a1a |
SALNED71(at)aol.com wrote:
> WHAT OIL COOLER FITTINGS DO I NEED FOR THIS ENGINE, SO I CAN GET THEM
> INSTALLED BEFORE I MOUNT THE ENGINE???
Van's website use to have a small drawing showing all the fuel/oil
fittings and hoses forward of the wire wall. It is a bunch and about
$500!
There is only one fitting for the oil pressure gage that is located on
the right upper rear end of the engine right adjacent to the mount that
need to be installed BEFORE you install the dynafocal mounts. All the
others can be installed later, but then I do not have a vacuum pump or
right mag. That sure cleans out some space.
The prop governor cable bracket VA-153 must be installled and safety
wired to the governor before mounting the engine to the firewall. BE
WARNED that the slot in the bracket must be enlarged about 3/16 on the
top side for the cable to work freely.
I mounted my engine to the fuselage with temporay hardware store quality
bolts. It's been off/on three times now!
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, cowl and spinner fitted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy latch direction |
>Van's RV-4 plans have the canopy release lever move FORWARD for release
>and REARWARD for latching. This seems backward to me......
I thought so too and set mine up to be FOREWARD to latch, back to unlatch.
That seemed to make more sense to me. Maybe it was because every other knob
is forward to go, that should be too. Just seemed more natural that way. I
was up flying yesterday and happened to look at the latch knob, wondering
if it would have been better the other way. I don't think so.
SInce it is your airplane, you can do anything you want. I LIKE having it
the "wrong" way.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren & Rhonda Johnson <wjrj(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: S-Tec Auto Pilot Install |
Gary,
I called S-tec and they sent me several drawings depicting perfered
mounting locations for the roll and pitch servo's. I will mount my roll
servo in the wing in the same bay as the aileron bell crank. S-Tec also
will sell you just the servos up front so you don't have to shell out funds
for the whole system. Also, S-Tec recommends not buying the gyro
instrument until instrument panel time. It isn't good to have gyro
instruments setting idle for long periods of time.
Finishing the first wing #80989
At 03:23 PM 2/23/00, you wrote:
>--> RV8-List message posted by: Gary Graham
>
>Has anyone any experience installing an S-Tec System 30 autopilot in an RV-8?
>If you have let me know how and where you mounted the roll and pitch servos.
>
>Thanks
>
>Gary Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
>Thank you to all that have helped me in the past. Good luck to all that I
have helped. I have out-grown the need, nor do I have time, to participate
on the list.
>
>Gary Corde
>RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Gary,
I've enjoyed your contributions to fellow rvers through the list. You've
certainly contributed a lot of helpful hints in the past and I'm sure a lot
of builder's have benefitted from your experience. I understand about
all of the time required to monitor the list and help other builders. It's
not hard to "run out of time" and you've certainly done your fair share.
Still, I sure hate to see the old timers fade away. But, the ones building
and nearing completion will be tommorows experts and many will stay on the
list for awhile to help out.
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Old RVers fading away-long |
Fellow RVers,
After visiting with some fellow RVers, off list, and seeing some of the
things that have been happening on the list over the past few months, I
decided to post what I hope will be some useful tips, hints, insights, etc.
Or, it could be just more wasted bandwidth:)
When I was building a Glasair, I'd go to OSH to visit Glasair builders.
Since I also intended to build a RV, I hung around the RV builders, as
well. I found the RVers to be almost the exact opposite of some of the
Glasair builders I met. Almost to a man, I found the RV builders to be
very helpful, patient and "neighborly". This has always been one of the
main drawing cards for me---the kind of people you get to associate with.
There is no group like RVers. This same spirit has, for the most part, has
been prevalent on the RV list for years. Yes, there are occasionally
lapses of courtesy, patience or judgment but, all in all, the rv list is
one of the best groups going.
I've been on the list for 5 years, now. I joined after I had my six
done. I wish I would have known about the list when I was building. I
thoroughly enjoyed interacting with fellow RVers and passing along any
helpful information that I thought might help them avoid mistakes and build
a better airplane. It was interesting to visit with so many builders from
all over. It's especially nice when you go to OSH or S&F and you already
have "instant friends" due to participation on the list. The list is just
like having an exclusive group of pen pals with the same interests and it's
been a lot of fun participating.
It's been kind of sad for me to see a lot of the guys I used to visit
with leave the list. There are several reasons for folks leaving and I
guess I can't blame them. Builders with flying airplanes do lose interest.
A lot of them continue to participate for while after completing their
airplanes. I imagine they have the same thoughts that I have. Sometimes,
it seems like you've answered the same question over and over. It's easy
to forget that there are "newbies" coming on line all of the time and they
have the same questions all new builders have.
There are other reasons folks drop their involvement and I'd like to pass
my ideas along for what they're worth. Most of the following is from my
perspective and from the thoughts of former listers that I've visited with.
I think one of the primary reasons the list looses valuable members is
due to the lack of courtesy and the feeling that the persons efforts in
trying to help fellow RVers are not appreciated. No one likes to be flamed
for their posts when all they are doing is trying to help. True, there may
be, at times, inaccurate information presented. But, these can be dealt
with "off list" or on list in a courteous manner. Remember, the builders
who have completed and are flying their airplanes don't have much, if
anything, to gain from list participation. It takes a lot of time to go
through all of the messages, think about questions and try to write a
helpful reply. I would encourage anyone that, when they have received a
helpful reply, to write to the person directly (that's off-list) with a
simple thanks. For run of the mill advice, this may not be necessary.
It's your call. But, if the responder has obviously spent a lot of time
and thought on helping you with a problem, it would seem a "thank you"
might be appropriate. It costs nothing and goes a long way towards making
a responder feel appreciated. In a lot of cases, the helpful responses
have saved builders from making expensive mistakes or resulted in a quicker
build, safer airplane, etc. What did the person who helped you out get out
of the exchange?
It does take a lot of time to monitor the list. There are several ways
to "clean things up" and to speed the exchange of information along. Matt
gives you a lot of these ideas when you sign up and there are periodic
reminders. Try to reduce clutter as much as possible. If you have a point
to make to one person and not the entire list, hit reply, erase the "to:"
field and paste in the person you want to respond to. There are a lot of
exchanges that are of no interest to the list and are of a personal matter.
Of course, we all mis-post to the list. (I've found that, if I don't
immediately erase "rv-list(at)matronics.com" from the to field that some of my
posts go to the wrong place:( ) "Way to go", "I agree" and "me too's" can
really clutter up the list, as well. If someone has something for sale,
re-do the "to" field and respond directly. The whole list doesn't have much
interest in your asking how much someone wants for his "widget".
All in all, I think the list works pretty darn good. Certainly, the list
is much more "flame free" than some of the newsgroups that I've seen.
Probably some of the problems with the list is due to "newbies" coming on
line who are used to interacting with newsgroups and have that "mind set".
I'll guarantee you that that type of nasty, flame based interaction will
not be tolerated on the RV-list and it's a really good way to make sure
that the "old hands" won't stick around. I guess this is the main thing
that has bothered me. I see so much talent leaving the list. People who
have contributed so much and been so helpful. The listers are the losers
when this happens. If I were a list member, I would try to make sure as
many of the old timers as possible stuck around and think of ways to make
this happen. I've harped to my 2 daughters since they were little kids
that the "Golden Rule" is something that will benefit them their whole
lives. It's something that can be put to good use here, as well.
Lastly, as my building career comes to and end (and eventually my
participation on the list), I'd like to say to the RVers that I've met on
the list and met at fly-ins that it's been one of the highlights of my
life. You are one of the greatest groups of people one could be associated
with and I enjoyed it every minute.
Regards,
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
PS For those friends who may be wondering about my ending "career". I've
been building since 1980. I've owned 7 planes since 1975. I've helped
several other builders with their projects. When I moved to Wyoming, I
left behind a wonderful shop and don't feel like investing the money
required to build another. I've also found some other fun things to do:
fly fishing for trout, hiking in the mountains and traveling in the "RV
substitue", my wife's silver Miata. My wife doesn't like to fly and my
priorities have changed a bit. The main factor in quitting RV building is
due to a problem that I've developed with fiberglass dust, even though I've
been wearing a mask. Prior asthma problems along with exposure to f.g.
dust have convinced me that I'm better off doing something else. I sold my
RV 6 knowing that I could always build another one but that doesn't seem to
be the case, now. When I get back from a visit to Nebraska, I'm going to
help a friend work on his fuselage for a few days and will then inventory
my tools and put them up for sale.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
In a message dated 3/6/00 4:28:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
<< Lowrance doesn't have a controllable output for course width, and the
NavAid
instructions of how to determine and to set its course width are vague, and
the "technical support" was non-existent when I asked them why it didn't
follow the instruction book. The man said, "I just copied that from them
(Porcine)" >>
I would recommend contacting Porcine Associates directly. I believe
their website is www.porcine.com. The website states that they will make the
wing leveler interface with your GPS properly; that they are not aware of any
GPS units that cannot be made to work properly with their coupler except the
older Magellan units (I think). I'm speaking from memory here since I
haven't contacted their site in several months, but I do remember that they
make a very clear committment that they will be able to assist you to get
your system to work properly.
Please report back to the list if you contact them and they are able to
help.
Good Luck,
Dale Wotring
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Gary,
Sorry to see you go.... May your flights be beautiful and may you
always enjoy a tailwind (except on final).
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | RV8A Quick Build Landing Gear |
HELP!
Is there anyone out there who has installed the landing gear weldments WD-821 L
& R on a quick build fuselage?
How did you do it? Specifically did you actually have to make the .040 shim
called for in the drawings but there is no mention of it in the plans. It looks
like you just slap the 821 in place and start drilling, yes? What about the
F-895 B spacer? It looks like the F895 doubler plate is already installed.
It's extremely hard to make heads or tails out of the drawings.
Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Fuse
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8A Quick Build Landing Gear |
Hiya Jim...
I drilled through the skins to gain access for drilling the spacers... To me...
it
looks like this spacer should have been done before the skin was installed... but
wasn't...
Larry
N248PL RV8 quick build kit #008
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>
> HELP!
>
> Is there anyone out there who has installed the landing gear weldments WD-821
L
> & R on a quick build fuselage?
>
> How did you do it? Specifically did you actually have to make the .040 shim
> called for in the drawings but there is no mention of it in the plans. It looks
> like you just slap the 821 in place and start drilling, yes? What about the
> F-895 B spacer? It looks like the F895 doubler plate is already installed.
> It's extremely hard to make heads or tails out of the drawings.
>
> Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ Fuse
> N89JA (reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Old RVers fading away-long |
I for one am going to miss Bob's expert advice offered to fellow RV builders.
I know he has helped many builders that he has never met.
I talked with him just today and he gave me advice in setting up the fuse.
jig, and drilling the skins to the bulkheads.
I've flown in Bob's RV-6 that he sold last summer and it was a "VERY NICE"
machine. I saw Charlie Tyrells's RV-6 fuselage in the canoe stage after
Charlie and Bob had worked for about 10 days. Great job (10 days!).
Bob informed me today that after he helps me with my fuselage he is getting
out of RV building. I feel very lucky that he is willing to help me. (By the
way Bob have a safe trip and I hope you get over your cold.)
I hope every one wishes Bob the best, and we should thank all the others out
there who have given their time and expertise.
Best of Luck to you and your wife Bob.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
Hi Greg,
Do you still have any alum. eye ball vents?
I dide-mail you after your post, but no reply.
Thanks
John Danielson
Casper, WY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum "eyeball" air vents |
Sorry about that, was suppose to be personal.
don not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | t-407 tank re. rv-6 |
i asume the hole in the 403 rib is cut to the same size as the inside dia. of
the 407 tank reinforcement flange. also the vent line fitting placement is
not shown on the plans at the inb.403 rib.can anyone help on these subjects.
tcrv6(at)aol.com left wing tank in hodge la.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tools - Shear / bending brake? |
> ... I'd like to buy
> a tool that would be good for making simple sheetmetal parts. One
> criteria is selecting a tool that would be useful on an RV project one
> day. At Harbor Freight I see several choices from a $370
> shear/press break down to a $16 bending break. Any experience
> with these tools? Is a shear useful? A bending break? What is
> recommended?
I could have used both during my project but they're much more of a luxury
than a necessity.
I do think that if you don't have a "real" brake, you should at least
consider getting one of those little 18" "hobbyist's" bending brakes (got
mine from ATS), just because for the cost (somewhere around $25) you at
least have SOME kind of brake, if not a very sophisticated one. Not worth
much for larger or more complicated parts, but it beats hell out of a hand
seamer for the small stuff. Be sure to get one that's made out of STEEL --
the one that Spruce sells is aluminum and really has no beef at all.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (60+ hours and PAINTED!)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
I wanted you to know that there is a DAR in Warsaw Indiana now. His
name is John Blosser and he's been an A&P for years. He also owns Air
Care ( a repair facility based at Warsaw Airport ). I don't know how much
he's going to charge but based on my knowledge of him, he will be reasonable
and also provide valuable information based on experience.
John's phone number is 219-269-5081
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
In a message dated 3/6/2000 3:59:05 PM Tokyo Standard Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
> >
> >Any help out there?
>
> the NavAid is a wing leveler with a yaw rate sensor (like that
> found in your turn coordinator) to sense rate and direction
> of turning only. It has no notion of heading.
>
> T
Hmmm, heading(track) info is as readily available from the GPS as is cross
track and bearing. I dont see why it wouldn't have been designed to take
advantage of that info. Perhaps your GPS is just not refreshing fast enough
for the Navaid to correlate the turns it is making with the GPS indicated
track. There was a report on this list several months ago where someone was
making great waypoint turns with the Navaid. I recommend checking the
archives and keep trying to get a hold of Navaid. You could also try
decluttering your GPS screen or using a GPS without a huge aviation database
to slow it down.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A QB Landing Gear Mounts |
Jim Andrews asked about installing the WD821's: Jim, the .040 spacers are
needed. If you look closely at Dwg 30A, section R-R, lower left, you'll see
that the 821's rest against the F804C, except for the inboard end, where
the 804C ends. You need the shim to fill the void between the 821 and the
gold anodized spar carry through.
As for the F895B spacer, I also have an 8A QB, and the spacer was already
installed (ya gotta use a mirror to see it).
I had lots of problems with the fit of the WD821R - finally had to send it
back to Van's and get a new one because it was not fabricated to the
correct dimensions. The new one fit perfectly! So, keep in mind this could
happen in your case.
Regarding the bolts that attach the 821's to the side of the fuselage (7
each side), I suggest you have the 821's snugly bolted to the spar carry
through BEFORE you drill these holes, otherwise the holes in the fuselage
may not be aligned w/the 821 holes.
It's also very helpful to make the drift pins called for in the plans, to
bring the 821's in alignment. Hope this stuff helps.........
Walt Shipley RV8A QB 314TS (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Listers,
During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings, I
believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly in & had to
turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed in
Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg. off the
runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept with the 3
pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got it down but
it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear that
springy to not even consider it?
Rick Caldwell
-6 29.9 hrs
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Quick Build Landing Gear |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 11:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8A Quick Build Landing Gear
>
>
> HELP!
>
> Is there anyone out there who has installed the landing gear weldments
WD-821 L
> & R on a quick build fuselage?
>
> How did you do it? Specifically did you actually have to make the .040
shim
> called for in the drawings but there is no mention of it in the plans.
This is just a simple 5/8" X 3/4" piece of .040 which lies in the offset
created where the gear weldment lies up against the F-804C bulkhead. An
AN-13A bolt goes through the weldment and the spacer, so there is no gap
between the weldment and the bulkhead.
It looks
> like you just slap the 821 in place and start drilling, yes?
NOTHING is ever quite that simple (at least for me). My left weldment fit
fine, but the right one required some "coaxing." The forward-facing arm
required a slight bit of bending to rest up against the lower longeron.
Van's suggested I heat the forward tube to make it bend - so I heated it
with a propane torch on one side to get it to bend the other way ever so
slightly. Finally, there was the slightest mismatch in the holes. You MUST
NOT DRILL THROUGH THE WELDMENTS AND BULKHEAD TO GET THEM TO MATCH! (yes, I
am shouting :)). Take a file and file the holes on the weldment until they
will match. Put on some nice, soothing music and take your time. This is
tedious.
What about the
> F-895 B spacer? It looks like the F895 doubler plate is already
installed.
> It's extremely hard to make heads or tails out of the drawings.
Yep, the F-895B is already there. It's what you drill through when you make
the forward wing attachment when you attach the wings. The plans are also
very confusing here as this is markedly different than the RV-8 - I'll share
my experiance with you there and post pictures on my website if you like.
Hope this helps.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
Memphis, TN
My RV-8A Web Site:
http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
I am about to temporarily install the wing ribs (tip & main) in order to fit the
skins. I remember being told not to use the good AN365 Nylok nuts for the temporary
assembly. Is it O.K. to re-use the AN3 bolts for both temporary and
final assembly? (I think it would be alright but I just want to verify)
Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts and the smallest
I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to numbers (#10, #8, ...). Have
I overlooked something obvious or do I have to order the nuts directly from Van's
or a different supplier?
Thanks in advance,
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: nav-aid/gpd tracking |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I have been using a lowrance 300/nav-aid for several years, six US
>crossings. My nav-aid does that little stick joggle when it crosses a way
>point. I haven't had the problem of loosing the course however. When I
>first got it installed I tried various scenerios and found that it could
>follow even a 90 degree intercept of the gps course, although that extreme
>case took several oscillations before it tracked correctly. On a typical
>cross-country trip you rarely have 90 degree waypoints, assuming you are
>trying to get somewhere in the least amount of time. I have had the
>autopilot loose the signal before(as indicated by a lack of the green light
>being lit) and it just keeps on flying level, but who knows where. When
>first telling the nav-aid to follow a new course I have experienced it
>wanting to bank off heading. I believe it takes perhaps 10-20 seconds for
>the gyro to settle down. Try using the wing leveler mode for 20 seconds
>flying along the desired course.
In the Navaid Devices manual it states that one needs to wait about 30
seconds after recentering the CDI before engaging the autopilot. This
has nothing to do with the gyro, it allows time for "some capacitors ...
to stabilize." If you don't do this, the autopilot thinks you are still
off course and will make an aggressive correction. Quite startling to
passengers. How do I know?
By the way, my Navaid does that stick jiggle when I first engage it, but
normally quits after a short time. I think it could be tweaked out.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken" <kgray(at)tca.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
I wheel land mine about 25% of the time, just for fun. It does need to have
the right tire pressure. I use 6 ply tires and 35 lbs. is just about right.
As for high wind, wheel verses 3 point, it is my opinion, 3 point is the
safest. Please no flames, this is the way I do it.
About 1300 hours, Commercial ASEL, IFR rated and Private Glider.
800 hours in a Cessna 140
500 hours in the best airplane around, RV-6.
Ken
Bryan, TX
http://pages.tca.net/kgray
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 7:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Landings
>
> Listers,
>
> During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
> landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings, I
> believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly in & had
to
> turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed in
> Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg. off the
> runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept with the
3
> pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got it down
but
> it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear that
> springy to not even consider it?
>
> Rick Caldwell
> -6 29.9 hrs
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
>From: "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wing Ribs - RV-6a
>Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 10:01:55 -0500
>
>
>(snip)
>Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts and the
>smallest I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to numbers (#10, #8,
>...). Have I overlooked something obvious or do I have to order the nuts
>directly from Van's or a different supplier?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
Scott
>Buffalo, NY
>RV-6a (wings)
________________________________
Scott, The 10's are the 3/16". Just make sure you obtain the 10-32's (32
threads per inch), not the coarse threaded 10-24's.
Best Regards, Jack -8 #80815 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
http://www.sirsproducts.com/
Sam Buchanan
A20driver(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
> forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Listers,
>
>During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
>landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings, I
>believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly in & had to
>turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed in
>Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg. off the
>runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept with the 3
>pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got it down but
>it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear that
>springy to not even consider it?
>
I wheel land mine on occasion but don't know how it compares to other
taildraggers because I haven't flown many types. My Pacer was a bear to
wheel land and the six is easier than it but the gear is pretty springy
and you can't have much descent rate when you touch or it will bounce.
Don't Cessna 180's do that too though?
I couple of months ago I posted to the list about a wheel landing I made
in a very strong crosswind. It went very well. Lots of speed for
excellent control and with the low ground speed, it was very easy to make
a precise and under control landing. As I stated in that post I thought
a taildragger wheel landing under those conditions was easier than a
landing in a tri-gear plane would have been.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Irwin" <erici(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Compass For RV6-A |
Here it is: http://www.sirsproducts.com/
Eric Irwin
Coral Springs, FL
RV-6, empennage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> A20driver(at)aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 9:29 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>
>
> Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
> forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
Thanks Jack,
I thought it was something simple like that.
Scott
>>> "Jack Blomgren" 03/07 10:26 AM >>>
Scott, The 10's are the 3/16". Just make sure you obtain the 10-32's (32
threads per inch), not the coarse threaded 10-24's.
Best Regards, Jack -8 #80815 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | builders near Ft Rucker, AL (templates wing) |
I was wondering if any builders in this area still have there wood templates
for setting the ailerons laying around. I bought a half built project and
need those for my wings. I have a RV4 and I think a 6 or 4 would work.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
>landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings....
Oh, dear. I'm afraid you've stirred the hornet's nest. This is a much
debated subject and has been discussed (see archives). It seems to depend
on many factors. (I look at suspect upon most statements that begin with
never, except "Never say never").
Let me stir the nest a little harder:
After 350+ hours in Suzie Q (a -4) I have found I am wheel landing or sort
of tail low wheel landing 80% of the time, especially with someone in the
back seat (-4, -8) or in cross wind situations. It is cool to squeek her on
three point, but the arguement can be made that the gear is too springy to
three point. If you grease it on, yeah, no bounce. If you happen to drop it
in a little, the gear will chuck you back into the air, or at least bounce
you around a little, with those sideways glances from your passenger (-6
types). It is easier to three point with the "new" longer gear, which the
-6 already have. With the short -4 gear, it is easy to drag the tail wheel
before the mains plunk on.
Cross winds: I have always felt in better control carrying some speed and
planting the upwind gear on first (probably from my Cub days) until losing
enough speed to bring the downwind gear down, THEN, the tail. I know, "the
tail has to come down sometime" but it feels better to bring it down with
more weight (less lift) on the firmly planted main gear.
Short field: three point.
I think it depends on several things, what technique you use. What are you
used to? What makes for YOUR better landings? How were you trained to do
it? What is the current situation (wind, heavy back seater, etc). Do what
you have to do to get it on the ground. (I once landed the Cub ACROSS a
runway, on to a taxi way. In Casper Wyoming, I landed on the tiedown ramp
with the winds going 35 knots and didn't roll 5 feet. That was a wheel
landing.)
I like to go out every once in a while when the wind is blowing and work on
different techniques. It is better to find out what works and how you will
react close to home and fresh, rather than at the end of a 2.5 hour cross
country when your tired and have to pee really bad. Don't just fly calm
days at home.
Just some thoughts.............
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Fly a lot; that's the bottom line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>1) The plans show the brake reservoir mounted on the engine side of the
>firewall with a hole bored thru the firewall for the Tee and brake lines
>to the master cylinders. Is there any reason (other than convenience when
>refilling) why the reservoir couldnt be mounted on the cockpit side of the
>firewall? Is it prone to leaking?
If you look at the nut that plugs the fill hole, you'll see it is kind of
funky looking. It is designed to allow air in to let the brake fluid move
up and down. Which also means it will let the fluid out. And it does leak
occasionally out the nut. Brake fluid turns into this gooey sticky mess
after it "dries". The way the reservoir is made (if it is still the same as
the "old days"), it is set up to be mounted on the fire wall. It would be a
PITA (pain in the butt) to try to get to it to fill it if it was on the
cockpit side of the fire wall.
IMHO, I see no advantage to putting it in the cockpit. Except you wouldn't
have to poke another hole in the fire wall.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>> MicroEncoder for Airspeed, VSI, Altitude, OAT. Is this asking to much
>>from these istruments for VFR flight.
>I intend to do the same - except night flight for which I will add a
>back up altimeter. If you lose the uEncoder at night, you should be
>able to get back on the deck using backup altitude and engine RPM as
>airspeed. Once you're familiar with the aircraft, you know what a
>particular throttle setting will get you for speeds in the pattern.
Hmmmm. I think if I was to be redundant, I would choose, ASI. Seeing how
far from the ground you are may be easier, in most situations, than trying
to determine how fast/slow you are going. These airplanes we are putting
together fly really fast, and really slow. It can sometimes be disorienting
to come into the pattern after a fast cross country and try to determine
how slow you are going without the airspeed. I think I would rather lose
the altimeter than ASI
I have the uEncoder and love it. I also have analog ASI and altimeter (I
know: too much in the panel) and I use them all, depending on the situation.
My opinion only.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
can anyone find a price scheduel for the SIRS products. They have a nice
product !!
erici(at)bigfoot.com on 03/07/2000 10:40:16 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
Here it is: http://www.sirsproducts.com/
Eric Irwin
Coral Springs, FL
RV-6, empennage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> A20driver(at)aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 9:29 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>
>
> Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
> forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>
> List: I am going to mount my compass on the glare shield as the panel (IFR)
> will be full.
> My question is has anyone to date found a compass that can handle the
> magnetic interference inside the slider and be of operational use?
> Anyone tried a Mooney Compass ? As we know the canopy frame work
> seems to mimic the Bermuda Triangle !
> Thanks Tom in Ohio
>
I have the -6 with the slider and de-gaussed the metal frame with the
the Radio Shack Bulk Tape Eraser (#44-232) and my vertical card compass
is hanging from front brace with very little error.
Boyd
RV Super6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
Aircraft Spruce sells this compass.
Jeff Hays.
On Tue, 7 Mar 2000 pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> can anyone find a price scheduel for the SIRS products. They have a nice
> product !!
>
>
> erici(at)bigfoot.com on 03/07/2000 10:40:16 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>
>
>
> Here it is: http://www.sirsproducts.com/
>
> Eric Irwin
> Coral Springs, FL
> RV-6, empennage
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > A20driver(at)aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 9:29 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
> > forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
> I am about to temporarily install the wing ribs (tip & main) in
> order to fit the skins. I remember being told not to use the good
> AN365 Nylok nuts for the temporary assembly. Is it O.K. to re-use
> the AN3 bolts for both temporary and final assembly? (I think it
> would be alright but I just want to verify)
>
> Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts and
> the smallest I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to numbers
> (#10, #8, ...). Have I overlooked something obvious or do I have to
> order the nuts directly from Van's or a different supplier?
> Scott Kuebler> Buffalo, NY> RV-6a (wings)
***Scott:
I would get hardware nuts for the 6-32,8-32, & the An3 is a 10-32.
When you get finished "fitting" which takes for ever, then use the Nylocs
Don Jordan ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
*************************************************************************
***
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
Get 10-32 hardware store nuts. I used brass nuts just to make sure I didn't
damage the AN3 bolt threads but I don't think it is that critical.
Harry Crosby
-6 Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
I'm looking at this same compass. Their website is
http://www.sirsproducts.com What they have is pricey, but what isn't
pricey?
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: A20driver(at)aol.com <A20driver(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>
>Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
>forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
No flames here. This is the way I was taught to do it. The old Cub flyers
around my home base tutored me when I was flying my Champ. I asked them
about wheel landings. Their *opinion* was that you want to be going as slow
as you possibly can when your wheels touch down.
I think you should do whatever you feel safest doing. I have yet to
encounter a wind that I can't three point either landing on the centerline,
on an angle to the runway (corner to corner), or that short, really wide
runway. :-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken [SMTP:kgray(at)tca.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 7:20 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel Landings
I wheel land mine about 25% of the time, just for fun. It does need
to have
the right tire pressure. I use 6 ply tires and 35 lbs. is just
about right.
As for high wind, wheel verses 3 point, it is my opinion, 3 point
is the
safest. Please no flames, this is the way I do it.
About 1300 hours, Commercial ASEL, IFR rated and Private Glider.
800 hours in a Cessna 140
500 hours in the best airplane around, RV-6.
Ken
Bryan, TX
http://pages.tca.net/kgray
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 7:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Landings
>
> Listers,
>
> During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's
should be
> landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel
landings, I
> believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly
in & had
to
> turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed
in
> Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg.
off the
> runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept
with the
3
> pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got
it down
but
> it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear
that
> springy to not even consider it?
>
> Rick Caldwell
> -6 29.9 hrs
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org> |
| Subject: | AERO Aviation Engines |
Does anyone have any information re: A.E.R.O. Aviation in Granite City,
Illinois?
I'm thinking of getting an engine from them but since I'm not in that
area I was hoping to get some references from the list. Reply to me
off-list please.
Thanks, Doug Shenk RV-6A qb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: t-407 tank re. rv-6 |
Hi....Didn't catch your name...
The position of the vent line in the root rib of the tank is shown on plan
18A, the right side of the sheet. There is no dimension noted, however, for
its location. What I did was keep the fore/aft placement the same as the
internal ribs, again this is noted on the top drawing on plans sheet 18A.
Then to locate the vent line top to bottom, I measured the inside diameter
of the stiffening ring stamped into the rib. Then I measured 1/4 of this
distance from the inside top edge of the stiffening ring to locate the vent
line exit. Seemed to work for me.
As to the stiffening ring, yes, the inside diameter of the ring is the
dimension that you want to cut out from the root rib. I, however, cut mine
out about 1/16 inch smaller than the stiffening ring to make sure that the
ring was in contact at that inside edge all the way around the ring.
Probably not a big deal, but again, it worked for me.
Hope all this helps you out.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
right wing flap and aileron
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: TCRV6(at)aol.com <TCRV6(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 1:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: t-407 tank re. rv-6
>
>i asume the hole in the 403 rib is cut to the same size as the inside dia.
of
>the 407 tank reinforcement flange. also the vent line fitting placement is
>not shown on the plans at the inb.403 rib.can anyone help on these
subjects.
>
>
>tcrv6(at)aol.com left wing tank in hodge la.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8QB Aftermarket landing gear |
> I searched the archives and could not find mention of the aftermarket
> aluminum landing gear by Grove Aviation and hammerhead Aviation in San
> Diego. Is anybody using them and if so what are your comments? I went down
> to see them and they both appear to be high quality. They claim same or
> better performance as steel gear, less weight, internal brake lines, and no
> need to run the fiberglass fairings because they are aerodynamically cleaner
> than the steel.
>
> Ed Perry
> edperry64(at)netzero.net
>
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
Frank Hoover used them on his RV-8, now has about 30-40 hours. He does not
have gear leg fairings, and his performance is pretty much typical for a 180/CS
RV-8. He likes them "fine" but really has no basis for direct comparison.
Once we get some more RV8s flying in the area I think we'll get a better idea.
They are definitely lighter.
One thing that I worried about is the durability of these gear. I recall that
Van "drop tested" the RV-8 to FAR 23 standards, which is unusual for a
homebuilt. Frank doesn't think this was done with his gear. The gear have a
constant cross section rather than the taper in the normal gear, and appear (to
me anyway) to have much less cross sectional area at the fuselage than the
steel gear.
I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, an engineer. Maybe someone with
more background (Kevin?) could comment
James Freeman
RV8QB steel gear (for now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
>Listers,
>
>During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
>landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings, I
>believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly in & had
>to
>turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed in
>Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg. off the
>runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept with the 3
>pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got it down
>but
>it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear that
>springy to not even consider it?
>
>Rick Caldwell
>-6 29.9 hrs
>Melbourne, FL
For me in the -8, three pointers for calm conditions or with winds right
down the runway. In stiff crosswinds, I bring it in about 5mph faster, and
wheel it on. The gear structure is different between the two models, but it
seems to me that tying to really slow the plane down for a three point
attitude with gusty crosswinds is possibly a hazardous proposition. I've
done this once or twice so far, and it got to be a real handfull in a hurry!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
59 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
>Listers,
>
>During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
>landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings, I
>believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly in & had
>to
>turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed in
>Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg. off the
>runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept with the 3
>pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got it down
>but
>it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear that
>springy to not even consider it?
>
>Rick Caldwell
>-6 29.9 hrs
>Melbourne, FL
For me in the -8, three pointers for calm conditions or with winds right
down the runway. In stiff crosswinds, I bring it in about 5mph faster, and
wheel it on. The gear structure is different between the two models, but it
seems to me that tying to really slow the plane down for a three point
attitude with gusty crosswinds is possibly a hazardous proposition. I've
done this once or twice so far, and it got to be a real handfull in a hurry!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
59 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
I notice in Van's catalog there is some fuel tank sealant that
replaces ProSeal. The part number is MC-236-B2. Does anybody know
what this stuff is called and why Van's recommends it over ProSeal?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A empennage
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VM1000 Fuel Flow xducer plumbing - IO-360 |
Anyone who's put in the VM1000 fuel flow transducer between the servo and the
flow divider comment on your plumbing technique. I'm using the stock, Bendix
servo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
Scott, run over to true value and go through their nuts bolts bins till you
see the brass stuff. they have small brass nuts that work and they're not
that much even if you use the right price........
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Kuebler
> Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 10:02 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Ribs - RV-6a
>
>
> I am about to temporarily install the wing ribs (tip & main) in
> order to fit the skins. I remember being told not to use the
> good AN365 Nylok nuts for the temporary assembly. Is it O.K. to
> re-use the AN3 bolts for both temporary and final assembly? (I
> think it would be alright but I just want to verify)
>
> Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts
> and the smallest I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to
> numbers (#10, #8, ...). Have I overlooked something obvious or
> do I have to order the nuts directly from Van's or a different supplier?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Scott Kuebler
> Buffalo, NY
> RV-6a (wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
i am going to use a two-bus architecture as advocated by electric bob. i
have a question about the feed from the main bus to the essential bus.
electric bob's diagrams show a one-way diode allowing current to flow from
the main bus via short unportected wires to the essential bus under normal
ops. when the "e-bus alternate feed" switch is thrown, then the e-bus gets
power from the hot side of the battery, and the diode prevents the essential
bus from feeding the main bus.
my questions is the following. why not send both feeds through the e-bus
switch? in the normal position, power could flow from the main bus via a
fused feeder. in the alternate position, the e-bus would still get power
from the hot side of the battery, and there would be no electrical
connection between the e-bus and the main bus.
then the diode would not be needed. in addition, a longer, fused feeder
from the main bus would allow you to place to fuse panels further apart if
necessary.
am i overlooking something? any reason why this would not be just as
reliable and safe, if not more so, now that we have reduced the parts count
and used a protected circuit?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a
wiring (more headscratching than wiring...)
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
rue Value has a knurled brass 10-32 round double thick nut that can be fingered
tightened & griped easily. Buy a handfull of these and use the standard
aircraft bolts. Running the brass or S/S or regural steel up & down the
aircraft bolts are fine for the 100 or so times you do fit-up. at the end
replace with the real nylock or steel-loc nuts.This makes fit-up easy.....
capsteve(at)wzrd.com on 03/07/2000 02:32:55 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing Ribs - RV-6a
Scott, run over to true value and go through their nuts bolts bins till you
see the brass stuff. they have small brass nuts that work and they're not
that much even if you use the right price........
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Kuebler
> Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 10:02 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Ribs - RV-6a
>
>
> I am about to temporarily install the wing ribs (tip & main) in
> order to fit the skins. I remember being told not to use the
> good AN365 Nylok nuts for the temporary assembly. Is it O.K. to
> re-use the AN3 bolts for both temporary and final assembly? (I
> think it would be alright but I just want to verify)
>
> Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts
> and the smallest I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to
> numbers (#10, #8, ...). Have I overlooked something obvious or
> do I have to order the nuts directly from Van's or a different supplier?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Scott Kuebler
> Buffalo, NY
> RV-6a (wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring question |
Let's see, so what you're suggesting is essentially an essential bus
feed selector switch, correct? This does create a single point of failure
in the switch itself, which is also probably the most unreliable part
of the scheme.
Jeff.
On Tue, 7 Mar 2000, Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
> listers,
>
> i am going to use a two-bus architecture as advocated by electric bob. i
> have a question about the feed from the main bus to the essential bus.
>
> electric bob's diagrams show a one-way diode allowing current to flow from
> the main bus via short unportected wires to the essential bus under normal
> ops. when the "e-bus alternate feed" switch is thrown, then the e-bus gets
> power from the hot side of the battery, and the diode prevents the essential
> bus from feeding the main bus.
>
> my questions is the following. why not send both feeds through the e-bus
> switch? in the normal position, power could flow from the main bus via a
> fused feeder. in the alternate position, the e-bus would still get power
> from the hot side of the battery, and there would be no electrical
> connection between the e-bus and the main bus.
>
> then the diode would not be needed. in addition, a longer, fused feeder
> from the main bus would allow you to place to fuse panels further apart if
> necessary.
>
> am i overlooking something? any reason why this would not be just as
> reliable and safe, if not more so, now that we have reduced the parts count
> and used a protected circuit?
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a
> wiring (more headscratching than wiring...)
> mamaroneck, ny
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Old RVers fading away-long |
Great post Bob, I hope some people take it to heart. Best of luck on all of
your endeavors, and thanks for all of your help. If you ever get out around
Boise, let me know.
>Subject: RV-List: Old RVers fading away-long
> Fellow RVers,
Ed Bundy RV6a first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
Jim,
SIRS does have a web site > http://www.sirs.co.uk/
We ordered ours from Aircraft Spruce.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
>From: A20driver(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 09:28:42 EST
>
>
>Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
>forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Listers;
I have about 800 landings on my -4 ( only counting the best one when
there were more than one ) and an old friend how to do it. he
told me to not reset the trim after you set it at power down on
downwind. Keep the speed down and land on the rear of the mains,
almost with the tail wheel dragging. Release the stick backpressure and
let the trim setting put it in the wheel position.
Works well for me.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)aol.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0001365060@smtp-in.libertybay.com>;
Tue,
07 Mar 2000 10:30:56.-0800(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
Get 10-32 hardware store nuts. I used brass nuts just to make sure I didn't
damage the AN3 bolt threads but I don't think it is that critical.
Harry Crosby
-6 Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net> |
I notice in Van's catalog there is some fuel tank sealant that
replaces ProSeal. The part number is MC-236-B2. Does anybody know
what this stuff is called and why Van's recommends it over ProSeal?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A empennage
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rv8don(at)aol.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0001367388@smtp-in.libertybay.com>;
Tue,
07 Mar 2000 12:16:49.-0800(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | VM1000 Fuel Flow xducer plumbing - IO-360 |
Anyone who's put in the VM1000 fuel flow transducer between the servo and the
flow divider comment on your plumbing technique. I'm using the stock, Bendix
servo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
http://www.sirsproducts.com/
Sam Buchanan
A20driver(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
> forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvmils(at)aol.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0001363415@smtp-in.libertybay.com>;
Tue,
07 Mar 2000 09:14:09.-0800(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | builders near Ft Rucker, AL (templates wing) |
I was wondering if any builders in this area still have there wood templates
for setting the ailerons laying around. I bought a half built project and
need those for my wings. I have a RV4 and I think a 6 or 4 would work.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org> |
| Subject: | AERO Aviation Engines |
Does anyone have any information re: A.E.R.O. Aviation in Granite City,
Illinois?
I'm thinking of getting an engine from them but since I'm not in that
area I was hoping to get some references from the list. Reply to me
off-list please.
Thanks, Doug Shenk RV-6A qb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Old RVers fading away-long |
Great post Bob, I hope some people take it to heart. Best of luck on all of
your endeavors, and thanks for all of your help. If you ever get out around
Boise, let me know.
>Subject: RV-List: Old RVers fading away-long
> Fellow RVers,
Ed Bundy RV6a first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
Thanks Jack,
I thought it was something simple like that.
Scott
>>> "Jack Blomgren" 03/07 10:26 AM >>>
Scott, The 10's are the 3/16". Just make sure you obtain the 10-32's (32
threads per inch), not the coarse threaded 10-24's.
Best Regards, Jack -8 #80815 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
I'm looking at this same compass. Their website is
http://www.sirsproducts.com What they have is pricey, but what isn't
pricey?
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: A20driver(at)aol.com <A20driver(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>
>Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
>forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
I am about to temporarily install the wing ribs (tip & main) in order to fit the
skins. I remember being told not to use the good AN365 Nylok nuts for the temporary
assembly. Is it O.K. to re-use the AN3 bolts for both temporary and
final assembly? (I think it would be alright but I just want to verify)
Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts and the smallest
I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to numbers (#10, #8, ...). Have
I overlooked something obvious or do I have to order the nuts directly from Van's
or a different supplier?
Thanks in advance,
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Listers,
>
>During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
>landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings, I
>believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly in & had to
>turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed in
>Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg. off the
>runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept with the 3
>pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got it down but
>it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear that
>springy to not even consider it?
>
I wheel land mine on occasion but don't know how it compares to other
taildraggers because I haven't flown many types. My Pacer was a bear to
wheel land and the six is easier than it but the gear is pretty springy
and you can't have much descent rate when you touch or it will bounce.
Don't Cessna 180's do that too though?
I couple of months ago I posted to the list about a wheel landing I made
in a very strong crosswind. It went very well. Lots of speed for
excellent control and with the low ground speed, it was very easy to make
a precise and under control landing. As I stated in that post I thought
a taildragger wheel landing under those conditions was easier than a
landing in a tri-gear plane would have been.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>1) The plans show the brake reservoir mounted on the engine side of the
>firewall with a hole bored thru the firewall for the Tee and brake lines
>to the master cylinders. Is there any reason (other than convenience when
>refilling) why the reservoir couldnt be mounted on the cockpit side of the
>firewall? Is it prone to leaking?
If you look at the nut that plugs the fill hole, you'll see it is kind of
funky looking. It is designed to allow air in to let the brake fluid move
up and down. Which also means it will let the fluid out. And it does leak
occasionally out the nut. Brake fluid turns into this gooey sticky mess
after it "dries". The way the reservoir is made (if it is still the same as
the "old days"), it is set up to be mounted on the fire wall. It would be a
PITA (pain in the butt) to try to get to it to fill it if it was on the
cockpit side of the fire wall.
IMHO, I see no advantage to putting it in the cockpit. Except you wouldn't
have to poke another hole in the fire wall.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
>landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings....
Oh, dear. I'm afraid you've stirred the hornet's nest. This is a much
debated subject and has been discussed (see archives). It seems to depend
on many factors. (I look at suspect upon most statements that begin with
never, except "Never say never").
Let me stir the nest a little harder:
After 350+ hours in Suzie Q (a -4) I have found I am wheel landing or sort
of tail low wheel landing 80% of the time, especially with someone in the
back seat (-4, -8) or in cross wind situations. It is cool to squeek her on
three point, but the arguement can be made that the gear is too springy to
three point. If you grease it on, yeah, no bounce. If you happen to drop it
in a little, the gear will chuck you back into the air, or at least bounce
you around a little, with those sideways glances from your passenger (-6
types). It is easier to three point with the "new" longer gear, which the
-6 already have. With the short -4 gear, it is easy to drag the tail wheel
before the mains plunk on.
Cross winds: I have always felt in better control carrying some speed and
planting the upwind gear on first (probably from my Cub days) until losing
enough speed to bring the downwind gear down, THEN, the tail. I know, "the
tail has to come down sometime" but it feels better to bring it down with
more weight (less lift) on the firmly planted main gear.
Short field: three point.
I think it depends on several things, what technique you use. What are you
used to? What makes for YOUR better landings? How were you trained to do
it? What is the current situation (wind, heavy back seater, etc). Do what
you have to do to get it on the ground. (I once landed the Cub ACROSS a
runway, on to a taxi way. In Casper Wyoming, I landed on the tiedown ramp
with the winds going 35 knots and didn't roll 5 feet. That was a wheel
landing.)
I like to go out every once in a while when the wind is blowing and work on
different techniques. It is better to find out what works and how you will
react close to home and fresh, rather than at the end of a 2.5 hour cross
country when your tired and have to pee really bad. Don't just fly calm
days at home.
Just some thoughts.............
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Fly a lot; that's the bottom line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>> MicroEncoder for Airspeed, VSI, Altitude, OAT. Is this asking to much
>>from these istruments for VFR flight.
>I intend to do the same - except night flight for which I will add a
>back up altimeter. If you lose the uEncoder at night, you should be
>able to get back on the deck using backup altitude and engine RPM as
>airspeed. Once you're familiar with the aircraft, you know what a
>particular throttle setting will get you for speeds in the pattern.
Hmmmm. I think if I was to be redundant, I would choose, ASI. Seeing how
far from the ground you are may be easier, in most situations, than trying
to determine how fast/slow you are going. These airplanes we are putting
together fly really fast, and really slow. It can sometimes be disorienting
to come into the pattern after a fast cross country and try to determine
how slow you are going without the airspeed. I think I would rather lose
the altimeter than ASI
I have the uEncoder and love it. I also have analog ASI and altimeter (I
know: too much in the panel) and I use them all, depending on the situation.
My opinion only.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcondon(at)csc.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0001364195@smtp-in.libertybay.com>;
Tue,
07 Mar 2000 09:50:09.-0800(at)matronics.com
can anyone find a price scheduel for the SIRS products. They have a nice
product !!
erici(at)bigfoot.com on 03/07/2000 10:40:16 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
Here it is: http://www.sirsproducts.com/
Eric Irwin
Coral Springs, FL
RV-6, empennage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> A20driver(at)aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 9:29 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>
>
> Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
> forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
Aircraft Spruce sells this compass.
Jeff Hays.
On Tue, 7 Mar 2000 pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> can anyone find a price scheduel for the SIRS products. They have a nice
> product !!
>
>
> erici(at)bigfoot.com on 03/07/2000 10:40:16 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
>
>
>
> Here it is: http://www.sirsproducts.com/
>
> Eric Irwin
> Coral Springs, FL
> RV-6, empennage
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > A20driver(at)aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 9:29 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass For RV6-A
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck: Does the SIRS compass people have a website??? If so please
> > forward...Thanks, Jim Brown, RV-3&4, NJ
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
No flames here. This is the way I was taught to do it. The old Cub flyers
around my home base tutored me when I was flying my Champ. I asked them
about wheel landings. Their *opinion* was that you want to be going as slow
as you possibly can when your wheels touch down.
I think you should do whatever you feel safest doing. I have yet to
encounter a wind that I can't three point either landing on the centerline,
on an angle to the runway (corner to corner), or that short, really wide
runway. :-)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken [SMTP:kgray(at)tca.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 7:20 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel Landings
I wheel land mine about 25% of the time, just for fun. It does need
to have
the right tire pressure. I use 6 ply tires and 35 lbs. is just
about right.
As for high wind, wheel verses 3 point, it is my opinion, 3 point
is the
safest. Please no flames, this is the way I do it.
About 1300 hours, Commercial ASEL, IFR rated and Private Glider.
800 hours in a Cessna 140
500 hours in the best airplane around, RV-6.
Ken
Bryan, TX
http://pages.tca.net/kgray
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Caldwell <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 7:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wheel Landings
>
> Listers,
>
> During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's
should be
> landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel
landings, I
> believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly
in & had
to
> turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed
in
> Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg.
off the
> runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept
with the
3
> pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got
it down
but
> it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear
that
> springy to not even consider it?
>
> Rick Caldwell
> -6 29.9 hrs
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: t-407 tank re. rv-6 |
Hi....Didn't catch your name...
The position of the vent line in the root rib of the tank is shown on plan
18A, the right side of the sheet. There is no dimension noted, however, for
its location. What I did was keep the fore/aft placement the same as the
internal ribs, again this is noted on the top drawing on plans sheet 18A.
Then to locate the vent line top to bottom, I measured the inside diameter
of the stiffening ring stamped into the rib. Then I measured 1/4 of this
distance from the inside top edge of the stiffening ring to locate the vent
line exit. Seemed to work for me.
As to the stiffening ring, yes, the inside diameter of the ring is the
dimension that you want to cut out from the root rib. I, however, cut mine
out about 1/16 inch smaller than the stiffening ring to make sure that the
ring was in contact at that inside edge all the way around the ring.
Probably not a big deal, but again, it worked for me.
Hope all this helps you out.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A 25171
right wing flap and aileron
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: TCRV6(at)aol.com <TCRV6(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 1:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: t-407 tank re. rv-6
>
>i asume the hole in the 403 rib is cut to the same size as the inside dia.
of
>the 407 tank reinforcement flange. also the vent line fitting placement is
>not shown on the plans at the inb.403 rib.can anyone help on these
subjects.
>
>
>tcrv6(at)aol.com left wing tank in hodge la.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8QB Aftermarket landing gear |
>
>
>> I searched the archives and could not find mention of the aftermarket
>> aluminum landing gear by Grove Aviation and hammerhead Aviation in San
>> Diego. Is anybody using them and if so what are your comments? I went down
>> to see them and they both appear to be high quality. They claim same or
>> better performance as steel gear, less weight, internal brake lines, and no
>> need to run the fiberglass fairings because they are aerodynamically cleaner
> > than the steel.
>>
>
>
>One thing that I worried about is the durability of these gear. I recall that
>Van "drop tested" the RV-8 to FAR 23 standards, which is unusual for a
>homebuilt. Frank doesn't think this was done with his gear. The gear have a
>constant cross section rather than the taper in the normal gear, and
>appear (to
>me anyway) to have much less cross sectional area at the fuselage than the
>steel gear.
>
>I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, an engineer. Maybe someone with
>more background (Kevin?) could comment
>
Cavaet - I've got a Mechanical Engineering degree, but I've never
been employed as an engineer. The following is what I've been told
by guys who should know, but I've never done the calculations myself.
If you want the gear to handle a certain load, steel is better than
aluminum or composites, as it will be lighter. You need a much
bigger piece of aluminum to handle the same load as the steel, so the
aluminum gear will be heavier. The only way to make it lighter is to
reduce the amount of load it has to handle. So, I suspect that the
aluminum gear mentioned is weaker than Van's steel gear. This might
be OK if you never do a hard landing, but I think we all do one of
those every once in a while. I'm sticking with the steel gear.
Now, I understand that titanium is even better than steel in this
application - i.e. it would be lighter than steel for the same
strength. But of course you would pay through the nose.
Kevin
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8QB Aftermarket landing gear |
> I searched the archives and could not find mention of the aftermarket
> aluminum landing gear by Grove Aviation and hammerhead Aviation in San
> Diego. Is anybody using them and if so what are your comments? I went down
> to see them and they both appear to be high quality. They claim same or
> better performance as steel gear, less weight, internal brake lines, and no
> need to run the fiberglass fairings because they are aerodynamically cleaner
> than the steel.
>
> Ed Perry
> edperry64(at)netzero.net
>
> NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
>
Frank Hoover used them on his RV-8, now has about 30-40 hours. He does not
have gear leg fairings, and his performance is pretty much typical for a 180/CS
RV-8. He likes them "fine" but really has no basis for direct comparison.
Once we get some more RV8s flying in the area I think we'll get a better idea.
They are definitely lighter.
One thing that I worried about is the durability of these gear. I recall that
Van "drop tested" the RV-8 to FAR 23 standards, which is unusual for a
homebuilt. Frank doesn't think this was done with his gear. The gear have a
constant cross section rather than the taper in the normal gear, and appear (to
me anyway) to have much less cross sectional area at the fuselage than the
steel gear.
I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, an engineer. Maybe someone with
more background (Kevin?) could comment
James Freeman
RV8QB steel gear (for now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
>Listers,
>
>During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
>landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings, I
>believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly in & had
>to
>turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed in
>Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg. off the
>runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept with the 3
>pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got it down
>but
>it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear that
>springy to not even consider it?
>
>Rick Caldwell
>-6 29.9 hrs
>Melbourne, FL
For me in the -8, three pointers for calm conditions or with winds right
down the runway. In stiff crosswinds, I bring it in about 5mph faster, and
wheel it on. The gear structure is different between the two models, but it
seems to me that tying to really slow the plane down for a three point
attitude with gusty crosswinds is possibly a hazardous proposition. I've
done this once or twice so far, and it got to be a real handfull in a hurry!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
59 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
>Listers,
>
>During my transition training w/ Mike Seager, he said the RV's should be
>landed 3 point. He said the gear was too springy for wheel landings, I
>believe. Well, Saturday, I tried to fly up to Shady Bend RV fly in & had
>to
>turn around because of rain. The winds picked up & when I landed in
>Titusville for fuel, winds were gusting to 30 kts, & about 20 deg. off the
>runway. Seems like the situation for a wheel landing but I kept with the 3
>pt. At flare, I balloned up, not once but 3 times. Finally got it down
>but
>it wasn't smooth. Have others wheel landed the -6? Is the gear that
>springy to not even consider it?
>
>Rick Caldwell
>-6 29.9 hrs
>Melbourne, FL
For me in the -8, three pointers for calm conditions or with winds right
down the runway. In stiff crosswinds, I bring it in about 5mph faster, and
wheel it on. The gear structure is different between the two models, but it
seems to me that tying to really slow the plane down for a three point
attitude with gusty crosswinds is possibly a hazardous proposition. I've
done this once or twice so far, and it got to be a real handfull in a hurry!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
59 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Mark:
Its just the stuff ya gotta use. Serioulsy, it is the same stuff that the
military uses. Showed it to a guy that just got out of the AF and his first
question was, "Does it smell like a sewer when you open up the can???" Of
course I said "uh huh!!!" Same stuff he was familiar with.
As to why Van's sells this over ProSeal, I have no idea. I will say that I
had no problems with it, although you must be organized when you use it and
very patient. Not bad stuff at all in my very humble opinion.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
right wing flap and aileron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 1:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: ProSeal
>
>I notice in Van's catalog there is some fuel tank sealant that
>replaces ProSeal. The part number is MC-236-B2. Does anybody know
>what this stuff is called and why Van's recommends it over ProSeal?
>
>Mark Schrimmer
>RV-9A empennage
>Irvine, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
Scott, run over to true value and go through their nuts bolts bins till you
see the brass stuff. they have small brass nuts that work and they're not
that much even if you use the right price........
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Kuebler
> Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 10:02 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Ribs - RV-6a
>
>
> I am about to temporarily install the wing ribs (tip & main) in
> order to fit the skins. I remember being told not to use the
> good AN365 Nylok nuts for the temporary assembly. Is it O.K. to
> re-use the AN3 bolts for both temporary and final assembly? (I
> think it would be alright but I just want to verify)
>
> Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts
> and the smallest I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to
> numbers (#10, #8, ...). Have I overlooked something obvious or
> do I have to order the nuts directly from Van's or a different supplier?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Scott Kuebler
> Buffalo, NY
> RV-6a (wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
i am going to use a two-bus architecture as advocated by electric bob. i
have a question about the feed from the main bus to the essential bus.
electric bob's diagrams show a one-way diode allowing current to flow from
the main bus via short unportected wires to the essential bus under normal
ops. when the "e-bus alternate feed" switch is thrown, then the e-bus gets
power from the hot side of the battery, and the diode prevents the essential
bus from feeding the main bus.
my questions is the following. why not send both feeds through the e-bus
switch? in the normal position, power could flow from the main bus via a
fused feeder. in the alternate position, the e-bus would still get power
from the hot side of the battery, and there would be no electrical
connection between the e-bus and the main bus.
then the diode would not be needed. in addition, a longer, fused feeder
from the main bus would allow you to place to fuse panels further apart if
necessary.
am i overlooking something? any reason why this would not be just as
reliable and safe, if not more so, now that we have reduced the parts count
and used a protected circuit?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a
wiring (more headscratching than wiring...)
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcondon(at)csc.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0001369156@smtp-in.libertybay.com>;
Tue,
07 Mar 2000 13:41:53.-0800(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
rue Value has a knurled brass 10-32 round double thick nut that can be fingered
tightened & griped easily. Buy a handfull of these and use the standard
aircraft bolts. Running the brass or S/S or regural steel up & down the
aircraft bolts are fine for the 100 or so times you do fit-up. at the end
replace with the real nylock or steel-loc nuts.This makes fit-up easy.....
capsteve(at)wzrd.com on 03/07/2000 02:32:55 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing Ribs - RV-6a
Scott, run over to true value and go through their nuts bolts bins till you
see the brass stuff. they have small brass nuts that work and they're not
that much even if you use the right price........
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Kuebler
> Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 10:02 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Ribs - RV-6a
>
>
> I am about to temporarily install the wing ribs (tip & main) in
> order to fit the skins. I remember being told not to use the
> good AN365 Nylok nuts for the temporary assembly. Is it O.K. to
> re-use the AN3 bolts for both temporary and final assembly? (I
> think it would be alright but I just want to verify)
>
> Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts
> and the smallest I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to
> numbers (#10, #8, ...). Have I overlooked something obvious or
> do I have to order the nuts directly from Van's or a different supplier?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Scott Kuebler
> Buffalo, NY
> RV-6a (wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring question |
Let's see, so what you're suggesting is essentially an essential bus
feed selector switch, correct? This does create a single point of failure
in the switch itself, which is also probably the most unreliable part
of the scheme.
Jeff.
On Tue, 7 Mar 2000, Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
> listers,
>
> i am going to use a two-bus architecture as advocated by electric bob. i
> have a question about the feed from the main bus to the essential bus.
>
> electric bob's diagrams show a one-way diode allowing current to flow from
> the main bus via short unportected wires to the essential bus under normal
> ops. when the "e-bus alternate feed" switch is thrown, then the e-bus gets
> power from the hot side of the battery, and the diode prevents the essential
> bus from feeding the main bus.
>
> my questions is the following. why not send both feeds through the e-bus
> switch? in the normal position, power could flow from the main bus via a
> fused feeder. in the alternate position, the e-bus would still get power
> from the hot side of the battery, and there would be no electrical
> connection between the e-bus and the main bus.
>
> then the diode would not be needed. in addition, a longer, fused feeder
> from the main bus would allow you to place to fuse panels further apart if
> necessary.
>
> am i overlooking something? any reason why this would not be just as
> reliable and safe, if not more so, now that we have reduced the parts count
> and used a protected circuit?
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a
> wiring (more headscratching than wiring...)
> mamaroneck, ny
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
My Airpath is mounted in the panel, on the top near the center. It was
possible to swing the compass so it had no more than about 5 degrees
of error, but turning on the landing light and taxi light causes 10-20
degrees of error, even though the switches and wiring runs are at the
bottom of the panel. I'd certainly consider an "above the panel"
location to maximize distance from the wiring runs. I believe there was
a discussion of degaussing the slider roll bar within the last 3 weeks.
The support rail that run forward from the center of the roll bar is
stainless steel on newer RV-6's, so it shouldn't cause a problem.
Tim
On 6 Mar 00, at 20:47, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
> List: I am going to mount my compass on the glare shield as the panel
> (IFR) will be full.
> My question is has anyone to date found a compass that can handle
> the
> magnetic interference inside the slider and be of operational use?
> Anyone tried a Mooney Compass ? As we know the canopy frame work
> seems to mimic the Bermuda Triangle !
> Thanks Tom in Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid GPS Light |
On my Navaid it is virtually impossible to see the green or yellow GPS
course/heading light unless the plane is in the hanger with the door
closed. Even when I cup my hand over the LED in flight, I can't tell
that it is lit.
Anybody else have the same problem?
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
I'm going to add my two cents on this one.
I've always three pointed my RV-4. In any wind condition I use full flaps
not
to loose altitude but to quit flying when I get down to the runway ) and I
three
point land. If it's a stiff crosswind, I land on one main and the tail. I
hold it there
until the other main comes down.
I met an old man in St. Mary's Ohio that taught flying for years and
years at
Ohio State. I asked him what he thought about only three pointing my RV-4
and
not learning to be more proficient at wheel landings. He told me that he
taught in
Cessna 120's and 140's for years, and the reason why they taught wheel
landings back then was because when they landed in a crosswind, they didn't
have enough control over the airplane. He claimed that with an airplane like
the
RV-4 you had more than enough control and the idea of a safe landing was to
make the airplane quit flying as soon as you could. With a three point
landing you were going slower at touchdown and would be less likely to get
out of shape on rollout.
After 800 hrs. flying from coast to coast and in all kinds of weather,
I agree
with him.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
Hey Bob, if you're going to tour the country in your wife's Miata you
should put a dependable engine in it, like a Lycoming :-) do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
>
>Also- I have checked every local hardware store for 3/16" nuts and the
smallest I can find is 1/4" before they switch over to numbers (#10, #8,
...). Have I overlooked something obvious or do I have to order the nuts
directly from Van's or a different supplier?
#10 is 3/16........10-32....UNF & 10-24....UNC
Derek Reed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: airflow performance - purge valve |
>
> What size is the return line and can it plumb to the tank breather (WHERE
TO
> TIE IN).
> thanks, MikeW
If you haven't bought the hardware yet, you can get a copy of the
recommended hook-up from Airflow Performance. The manual which comes with
the system has what you need to know. The return line is -4. Don't put it
to the tank vent, as you will simply pump fuel out onto the ground. Tee it
into one of the lines from the tank to the selector valve.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Is anyone else getting double postings? |
Today I got each posting to the list (at least) twice each. Is it my
system or the list system?
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is anyone else getting double postings? |
>
>Today I got each posting to the list (at least) twice each. Is it my
>system or the list system?
So did I.......
Have Great Day!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Fletcher" <fletch(at)ionsys.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 SST Firewall cracking (240 TTAF) |
Looking for other RV-4 or RV experience with cracks in the SST firewall
lower corners.
On my last two annuals at (190-240 hours TTAF) I have noted vertical cracks
(1.0 - 1.5" in length) in both lower corners of the SST firewall bulkhead
flange, extremely hard to see!. This is the flange where the fuselage side
skin and lower cowl attach hinge is. (These cracks are not in the lower
corner weldments that were strenghthened some years back by Van's). The
cracks appear or could have originated from the corner bend drilled relief
hole in the far bottom corner of the firewall. There are also some hairline
cracks appearing from the dimpled -4 rivet holes of the bottom firewall
flange that gets rivetted to the fuselage belly skin. I only operate out of
grass or rougher fields approx. 20% of flying time and the occasional "I
have arrived flare" !!!.........
When I raised the concern to Van's they commented that there is a lot of
movement (side to side) at the firewall and forward fuselage area during
ground operations with some airplanes showning cracking possibly in these
areas and others none. I was surprised when they didn't seem concerned, and
recommended sealing crack from cockpit. I recognize the firewall is
essentially non structural but for future builders a local beef up may be in
order. The fix to even stop drill this area is next to impossible (hidden by
engine mount tube) without removing engine and engine mount!!!
Any comments or experience on existing flying airplanes is most appreciated.
Keith Fletcher
C-FMYO (RV-4 #1219)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Listers,
I wanted you to know that there is a DAR in Warsaw Indiana now. His
name is John Blosser and he's been an A&P for years. He also owns Air
Care ( a repair facility based at Warsaw Airport ). I don't know how much
he's going to charge but based on my knowledge of him, he will be reasonable
and also provide valuable information based on experience.
John's phone number is 219-269-5081
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0001357597@smtp-in.libertybay.com>;
Tue,
07 Mar 2000 03:40:03.-0800(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
In a message dated 3/6/2000 3:59:05 PM Tokyo Standard Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
> >
> >Any help out there?
>
> the NavAid is a wing leveler with a yaw rate sensor (like that
> found in your turn coordinator) to sense rate and direction
> of turning only. It has no notion of heading.
>
> T
Hmmm, heading(track) info is as readily available from the GPS as is cross
track and bearing. I dont see why it wouldn't have been designed to take
advantage of that info. Perhaps your GPS is just not refreshing fast enough
for the Navaid to correlate the turns it is making with the GPS indicated
track. There was a report on this list several months ago where someone was
making great waypoint turns with the Navaid. I recommend checking the
archives and keep trying to get a hold of Navaid. You could also try
decluttering your GPS screen or using a GPS without a huge aviation database
to slow it down.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | RV8A QB Landing Gear Mounts |
Jim Andrews asked about installing the WD821's: Jim, the .040 spacers are
needed. If you look closely at Dwg 30A, section R-R, lower left, you'll see
that the 821's rest against the F804C, except for the inboard end, where
the 804C ends. You need the shim to fill the void between the 821 and the
gold anodized spar carry through.
As for the F895B spacer, I also have an 8A QB, and the spacer was already
installed (ya gotta use a mirror to see it).
I had lots of problems with the fit of the WD821R - finally had to send it
back to Van's and get a new one because it was not fabricated to the
correct dimensions. The new one fit perfectly! So, keep in mind this could
happen in your case.
Regarding the bolts that attach the 821's to the side of the fuselage (7
each side), I suggest you have the 821's snugly bolted to the spar carry
through BEFORE you drill these holes, otherwise the holes in the fuselage
may not be aligned w/the 821 holes.
It's also very helpful to make the drift pins called for in the plans, to
bring the 821's in alignment. Hope this stuff helps.........
Walt Shipley RV8A QB 314TS (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Old RVers fading away-short |
Brian Denk wrote:
>I have decided to remain on the list even though I am now one of those guys
>with a flying RV. (Hallelujah!). I feel it is the least I can do to repay
>all those folks who have been so patient in assisting me to achieve my dream
>of RV ownership.
Good for you Brian! The list lives on the contribution of others.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: airflow performance - purge valve |
>
> What size is the return line and can it plumb to the tank breather (WHERE
TO
> TIE IN).
> thanks, MikeW
If you haven't bought the hardware yet, you can get a copy of the
recommended hook-up from Airflow Performance. The manual which comes with
the system has what you need to know. The return line is -4. Don't put it
to the tank vent, as you will simply pump fuel out onto the ground. Tee it
into one of the lines from the tank to the selector valve.
Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Fletcher" <fletch(at)ionsys.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 SST Firewall cracking (240 TTAF) |
Looking for other RV-4 or RV experience with cracks in the SST firewall
lower corners.
On my last two annuals at (190-240 hours TTAF) I have noted vertical cracks
(1.0 - 1.5" in length) in both lower corners of the SST firewall bulkhead
flange, extremely hard to see!. This is the flange where the fuselage side
skin and lower cowl attach hinge is. (These cracks are not in the lower
corner weldments that were strenghthened some years back by Van's). The
cracks appear or could have originated from the corner bend drilled relief
hole in the far bottom corner of the firewall. There are also some hairline
cracks appearing from the dimpled -4 rivet holes of the bottom firewall
flange that gets rivetted to the fuselage belly skin. I only operate out of
grass or rougher fields approx. 20% of flying time and the occasional "I
have arrived flare" !!!.........
When I raised the concern to Van's they commented that there is a lot of
movement (side to side) at the firewall and forward fuselage area during
ground operations with some airplanes showning cracking possibly in these
areas and others none. I was surprised when they didn't seem concerned, and
recommended sealing crack from cockpit. I recognize the firewall is
essentially non structural but for future builders a local beef up may be in
order. The fix to even stop drill this area is next to impossible (hidden by
engine mount tube) without removing engine and engine mount!!!
Any comments or experience on existing flying airplanes is most appreciated.
Keith Fletcher
C-FMYO (RV-4 #1219)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Is anyone else getting double postings? |
>
>Today I got each posting to the list (at least) twice each. Is it my
>system or the list system?
So did I.......
Have Great Day!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Eastburn <jime(at)ci.hillsboro.or.us> |
| Subject: | Old RVers fading away-short |
And my thanks also for those who provided valuable information and those who
are staying around to guide us through the confusing parts .. Yes, I could
just walk down to Vans, but the information provided on the list has quality
and knowledge proven 100 times over. Thanks to you all. Jim Eastburn, North
Plains Oregon..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Ribs - RV-6a |
> Get 10-32 hardware store nuts. I used brass nuts just to make sure I
didn't
> damage the AN3 bolt threads but I don't think it is that critical.
While you're at it, get a bunch of short (like 3/16" and 1/4") #6 and #8
c-sunk screws. Really handy for temporarily assembly. Saves time running
screws all the way in and out, and keeps from munging up your fancy AN
hardware before final assembly.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Is anyone else getting double postings? |
In a message dated 3/7/00 9:45:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com.Tue writes:
<< <<
Today I got each posting to the list (at least) twice each. Is it my
system or the list system? >>
I think I got some of 'em 3 times... >>
I'm getting two or three of each message also.
Dale Wotring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8QB Aftermarket landing gear |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >> I searched the archives and could not find mention of the aftermarket
> >> aluminum landing gear by Grove Aviation and hammerhead Aviation in San
> >> Diego. Is anybody using them and if so what are your comments? I went down
> >> to see them and they both appear to be high quality. They claim same or
> >> better performance as steel gear, less weight, internal brake lines, and
no
> >> need to run the fiberglass fairings because they are aerodynamically cleaner
> > > than the steel.
> >>
> >
> >
> >One thing that I worried about is the durability of these gear. I recall that
> >Van "drop tested" the RV-8 to FAR 23 standards, which is unusual for a
> >homebuilt. Frank doesn't think this was done with his gear. The gear have
a
> >constant cross section rather than the taper in the normal gear, and
> >appear (to
> >me anyway) to have much less cross sectional area at the fuselage than the
> >steel gear.
> >
> >I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, an engineer. Maybe someone with
> >more background (Kevin?) could comment
> >
>
> Cavaet - I've got a Mechanical Engineering degree, but I've never
> been employed as an engineer. The following is what I've been told
> by guys who should know, but I've never done the calculations myself.
>
> If you want the gear to handle a certain load, steel is better than
> aluminum or composites, as it will be lighter. You need a much
> bigger piece of aluminum to handle the same load as the steel, so the
> aluminum gear will be heavier. The only way to make it lighter is to
> reduce the amount of load it has to handle. So, I suspect that the
> aluminum gear mentioned is weaker than Van's steel gear. This might
> be OK if you never do a hard landing, but I think we all do one of
> those every once in a while. I'm sticking with the steel gear.
>
> Now, I understand that titanium is even better than steel in this
> application - i.e. it would be lighter than steel for the same
> strength. But of course you would pay through the nose.
>
> Kevin
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
It is my understanding that the Grove landing gear for the RV-8 (not 8A) is, in
fact, a titanium gear, and thus it is supposedly just as strong as the stock steel
gear while being about 12-15 lbs lighter weight. And yes, you do pay through the
nose for it, about an extra $1200 or $1400 if I recall correctly.
George True
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8QB Aftermarket landing gear |
I suggest those looking into titanium legs really, REALLY look into them. I
intended to build my cage out of titanium in my Porsche, but after speaking
to the titanium manufacturer about the properties and applications for
titanium, THEY talked me out of it. It is stronger BY WEIGHT than mild
steel, but in order to get the stiffness that 1.5" steel tubing offered, I
needed something like 5" titanium. Also, the engineer at Titanium
Industries (manufacturer) who went over my design with me said that titanium
is far to springy for that sort of application. I would need bars running
all over the place trying to stiffen up the design. He was quite honest
with me in saying that Titanium is not suitable for that application. Now
it seems to me titanium gear legs would suffer the same problems....bounce
bounce bounce.......but at least fatigue shouldn't be an issue.
I'm not offering engineering advice here, just passing on that which I
received......so like everything else in RV's - learn about it before you
buy it.
Bill
Rv-4 tools are here, empennage is 'in the mail'
----- Original Message -----
From: "George True" <true(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8QB Aftermarket landing gear
>
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >> I searched the archives and could not find mention of the
aftermarket
> > >> aluminum landing gear by Grove Aviation and hammerhead Aviation in
San
> > >> Diego. Is anybody using them and if so what are your comments? I
went down
> > >> to see them and they both appear to be high quality. They claim
same or
> > >> better performance as steel gear, less weight, internal brake lines,
and no
> > >> need to run the fiberglass fairings because they are aerodynamically
cleaner
> > > > than the steel.
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >One thing that I worried about is the durability of these gear. I
recall that
> > >Van "drop tested" the RV-8 to FAR 23 standards, which is unusual for a
> > >homebuilt. Frank doesn't think this was done with his gear. The gear
have a
> > >constant cross section rather than the taper in the normal gear, and
> > >appear (to
> > >me anyway) to have much less cross sectional area at the fuselage than
the
> > >steel gear.
> > >
> > >I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, an engineer. Maybe
someone with
> > >more background (Kevin?) could comment
> > >
> >
> > Cavaet - I've got a Mechanical Engineering degree, but I've never
> > been employed as an engineer. The following is what I've been told
> > by guys who should know, but I've never done the calculations myself.
> >
> > If you want the gear to handle a certain load, steel is better than
> > aluminum or composites, as it will be lighter. You need a much
> > bigger piece of aluminum to handle the same load as the steel, so the
> > aluminum gear will be heavier. The only way to make it lighter is to
> > reduce the amount of load it has to handle. So, I suspect that the
> > aluminum gear mentioned is weaker than Van's steel gear. This might
> > be OK if you never do a hard landing, but I think we all do one of
> > those every once in a while. I'm sticking with the steel gear.
> >
> > Now, I understand that titanium is even better than steel in this
> > application - i.e. it would be lighter than steel for the same
> > strength. But of course you would pay through the nose.
> >
> > Kevin
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
> >
> >
>
> It is my understanding that the Grove landing gear for the RV-8 (not 8A)
is, in
> fact, a titanium gear, and thus it is supposedly just as strong as the
stock steel
> gear while being about 12-15 lbs lighter weight. And yes, you do pay
through the
> nose for it, about an extra $1200 or $1400 if I recall correctly.
>
> George True
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>My Airpath is mounted in the panel, on the top near the center. It was
>possible to swing the compass so it had no more than about 5 degrees
>of error, but turning on the landing light and taxi light causes 10-20
>degrees of error......
I haven't been following this thread so delete this if it is redundant. Or
if you think it's stupid. This is opinion only:
I have noticed more and more, with the navigational aids we have, how
little I actually use the compass while flying. If you have a DG and/or
GPS, you don't really need an accurate compass. (Ouch!) (You still need a
compass to be legal.) It is really for reference anyway. You establish a
heading and hold that compass heading, what ever it is. Us "old guys"
remember the days when that was all there was: a compass and a line on the
map. It was/is your following the line on the map that had to be accurate.
I still have the line, even with GPS. It's nice to know where you are.
If your compass is within 5 degrees, that is close enough. You are not
going to be using the compass for critical navigation when the landing/taxi
light is on anyway. Mine is right upper panel (-4) and wound up pretty
accurate. Your inspector is not going to ask you how accurate your compass
is, only if you have one. You only have to have a compass correction card
displayed to be legal; it doesn't have to be filled out (which you may not
be able to do before you fly).
I have seen too many compasses stuck up on the glare shield, or worse, on
the canopy frame of a -4, which is a great instrument to poke your face
into should you stop when you weren't planning to. Not so much a problem in
a -6, but still sticking up there.
In my opinion only.............
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Electric props |
Gentlemen,
I offer the following for those of us who were hoping for an
inexpensive variable-pitch prop from the MT company:
--- Eric Greindl <Eric.Greindl@mt-propeller.com> wrote:
> From: "Eric Greindl" <Eric.Greindl@mt-propeller.com>
> To:
> Subject: Electric props
> Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 16:44:08 +0100
>
> Dear Mr. Mike Thompson,
>
> thank you for your e-mail dt. 07.03.2000.
>
> For the RV-6 with the Lyc. O-320 engine we will offer you our
> electric constant speed propeler in 2-bladed version with a diameter
> of 175cm (69").
>
> Type: MTV-17-C/175-17d
> + Spinner Assy P-470
> + Control Unit P-120-U/2700 (12VDC)
> + Manifold Pressure Gauge
> + Circuit Breaker
>
> package price US$ 9,090.00
>
> Packing is included by the two blade propeller. The price for the
> transportation of the prop to an Int. Airport in Texas is depending
> to many things, the exchange rate, the airfreighter we use, the time
> we have and the final destination. We guess that the price for
> shipping and handling will be by approx. US$ 400.00 .
>
> You can also use our 3-bladed constant speed propeller with a
> diameter of 170cm (67")
>
> Type: MTV-18-C/170-36a
> + Spinner Assy P-469-2
> + Control Unit P-120-U/2700 (12VDC)
> + Manifold Pressure Gauge
> + Circuit Breaker
>
> package price US$ 10,970.00
>
> Additional we charge you for the shipping box with US$ 200.00. The
> price for the transportation is approx. US$ 500.00 to an Int. Airport
> in Texas.
>
> The standard painting of our propellers is white with red tips or
> gray with white tips, the spinner assy is painted in white. Other
> colour schemes are possible but will be charged with additional US$
> 130.00.
>
> Prepayment and a written order is requested, our general terms of
> sale apply. Prices above are valid for the next 60 days.
>
> Please let us know if you need any further information.
> Your order is much appreciated.
>
> Best regards.
> MT Propeller Entwicklung GmbH
>
> Eric Greindl
>
Bummer!
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Whirlwind Propellers |
I've done a "cut and paste" re: a response I received from Whirlwind
concerning their three-bladed props. The response had excellent pictures,
but these can't go out to the rv-list . . . so I'll just give you the
verbage.
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO
--
Rick;
Thank you for your interest in our products. I would recommend our 150
Series, in development, or our 200 Series prop.
The development of the 150 Series is top priority at Whirl Wind. We are
hard at work building and testing production prototypes. You can expect to
see this propeller available early summer 2000.
Our 150 Series is a three blade hydraulic constant speed propeller designed
for the Lycoming O320 - O360 engines (150 - 200 hp).
The hub assembly is CNC machined from certified aerospace aluminum alloy,
shot peened and anodized. The propeller blades are similar in construction
to our successful and popular 100 Series propeller which uses advanced
thermoset composite materials and is equipped with a stainless steel
leading edge.
The 150 Series System will include: propeller, spinner, and all hardware
needed for installation.
Prices: TBD
The 200 Series is our most popular aerobatic two-blade propeller designed
for the Lycoming O360 engines (180-200 hp).
This propeller delivers exceptional performance for the modern day aerobatic
aircraft. The 200 Series propeller is a hydraulically controlled constant
speed propeller, counter-weighted for aerobatic aircraft. The propeller is
designed to go to coarse pitch in case of loss of oil pressure, decreasing
the possibility of engine overspeed.
Construction: The blades are constructed from compressed hardwood veneers
which are then covered with a structural graphite skin. All propeller
blades are equipped with a stainless steel leading edge for abrasion
protection.
The 200 Series is available in 76" to 78" diameters; weight is approximately
47 lbs. Pricing starts at $7500.00.
Regards,
Jim Rust
President of Engineering
Whirl Wind Propellers Corporation
1860 Joe Crosson Drive, Suite J
El Cajon, CA 92020
http://whirlwindpropellers.com
1-619-562-3725 ph
1-619-562-4475 fx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Removing plastic from sheets. |
I am having much difficulty removing the white plastic that covers the
wing skins. I have had these skins for several years and am now ready to
finish covering the wings. Some of it is coming off slowly but lots of it
is just brittle and won't peel off. I have tried heating it but no luck.
(Top and Bottom). I have also heated it to melting point, scraped with
wood stick and then MEK. (A mess). I am just about to the point of
reordering new bottom skins.
Any ideas out there?
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
I have been flying Cessnas and most recently a Maule. I am thinking
about getting checked out in a T-34 before I fly with Mike, thinking
that it might help "transition" to an RV (at least as far as handling is
concerned). Opinion from those who have flown both?
Chris Browne
-6A finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Infinity" <fmico(at)iaxs.net> |
| Subject: | Removing plastic from sheets. |
I am having much difficulty removing the white plastic that covers the
wing skins. I have had these skins for several years and am now ready to
finish covering the wings. Some of it is coming off slowly but lots of it
is just brittle and won't peel off.
I just went through the same scenario. What finally worked required two
people.
One to keep the heat gun (in this case an electric paint remover; a good
hair dryer
might work just as well) warming the metal just ahead of where it is being
removed.
The other person has to get a good grip on the edge of the plastic and pull
it evenly
down the skin. A little experimentation will give you the right combination
of heat
and muscle...
Jim Wittman
Mpls
wings (of course)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6/6A Seat Ribs |
Have any other 6/6A builder's found that the F-615 (outboard) seat floor ribs
are shallower by 1/8 inch than the rest of the inboard ribs? Mine are, and
being anal about straightness I installed 1/8 x 1/2 x about 8 in. shims
(drilled full of 3/8 holes for lightness) so that the floor panels would lay
flat. Just curious.
Harry Crosby
-6 Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Electric prop$ |
Regarding price......most manufacters quote retail pricing to protect their
distribution chains.( I know, I paid about 1/2 retail for my Sensenich fixed
pitch prop.) Does anyone have a relationship with a prop shop, wholesaler or
distributer that would offer us or Vans a more realistic pricing structure..???
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com on 03/08/2000 11:31:42 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: Electric props
Gentlemen,
I offer the following for those of us who were hoping for an
inexpensive variable-pitch prop from the MT company:
--- Eric Greindl <Eric.Greindl@mt-propeller.com> wrote:
> From: "Eric Greindl" <Eric.Greindl@mt-propeller.com>
> To:
> Subject: Electric props
> Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 16:44:08 +0100
>
> Dear Mr. Mike Thompson,
>
> thank you for your e-mail dt. 07.03.2000.
>
> For the RV-6 with the Lyc. O-320 engine we will offer you our
> electric constant speed propeler in 2-bladed version with a diameter
> of 175cm (69").
>
> Type: MTV-17-C/175-17d
> + Spinner Assy P-470
> + Control Unit P-120-U/2700 (12VDC)
> + Manifold Pressure Gauge
> + Circuit Breaker
>
> package price US$ 9,090.00
>
> Packing is included by the two blade propeller. The price for the
> transportation of the prop to an Int. Airport in Texas is depending
> to many things, the exchange rate, the airfreighter we use, the time
> we have and the final destination. We guess that the price for
> shipping and handling will be by approx. US$ 400.00 .
>
> You can also use our 3-bladed constant speed propeller with a
> diameter of 170cm (67")
>
> Type: MTV-18-C/170-36a
> + Spinner Assy P-469-2
> + Control Unit P-120-U/2700 (12VDC)
> + Manifold Pressure Gauge
> + Circuit Breaker
>
> package price US$ 10,970.00
>
> Additional we charge you for the shipping box with US$ 200.00. The
> price for the transportation is approx. US$ 500.00 to an Int. Airport
> in Texas.
>
> The standard painting of our propellers is white with red tips or
> gray with white tips, the spinner assy is painted in white. Other
> colour schemes are possible but will be charged with additional US$
> 130.00.
>
> Prepayment and a written order is requested, our general terms of
> sale apply. Prices above are valid for the next 60 days.
>
> Please let us know if you need any further information.
> Your order is much appreciated.
>
> Best regards.
> MT Propeller Entwicklung GmbH
>
> Eric Greindl
>
Bummer!
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Seat Ribs |
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>.. found that the F-615 (outboard) seat floor ribs are shallower by 1/8 inch than
the rest of the inboard ribs?
YES. I even bought new ones to fix the problem, but they were the same
as the old ones. They seem to match the drawing dimensions. Oh well, the
drawings and parts are "only for guidance" any way.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A Seat Ribs |
Harry,
This has been talked about quite a bit, and is in the archives.
My solution was to split the rib horizontally and rivet a .032 x 1" patch to reassemble/extend
them. Probabaly a little lighter the the 1/8 and maybe a little
less work. Than again, maybe not.....
Laird RV-6 22923 finishing details, details, details....
SoCal
Have any other 6/6A builder's found that the F-615 (outboard) seat floor ribs
are shallower by 1/8 inch than the rest of the inboard ribs? Mine are, and
being anal about straightness I installed 1/8 x 1/2 x about 8 in. shims
(drilled full of 3/8 holes for lightness) so that the floor panels would lay
flat. Just curious.
Harry Crosby
-6 Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
>Chris Browne wrote:
>
>I have been flying Cessnas and most recently a Maule. I am thinking
>about getting checked out in a T-34 before I fly with Mike, thinking
>that it might help "transition" to an RV .....
I probably shouldn't answer as I have never flown a T-34 but it does seem
to me that it would not be much different from my Debonair. Both are
straight tail Bonanza derivatives, no?
I flew with Mike for 3.5 hrs in an RV6a and found it totally different from
my Debonair. Easy to fly and to land but Mike had to keep after me to not
flare so high. I supposed I was still flying the Deb. Maybe flying a T-34
would do more harm than good.
Didn't someone suggest some time in a Grumman Tiger?
If I were you, I would plan my visit to Mike to take one day but have the
next day available. Spend your money on Mike and an RV6a.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A Seat Ribs |
I had the same problem and more or less the same fix. I put the 1/8 shims
only under the places where I was going to place a screw.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF
-----Original Message-----
Have any other 6/6A builder's found that the F-615
(outboard) seat floor ribs
are shallower by 1/8 inch than the rest of the inboard ribs?
Mine are, and
being anal about straightness I installed 1/8 x 1/2 x about
8 in. shims
(drilled full of 3/8 holes for lightness) so that the floor
panels would lay
flat. Just curious.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>I have been flying Cessnas and most recently a Maule. I am thinking
>about getting checked out in a T-34 before I fly with Mike, thinking
>that it might help "transition" to an RV (at least as far as handling is
>concerned). Opinion from those who have flown both?
RV's fly better. I wouldn't, however, pass up a chance to scoot around in a
-34. If you have a chance to fly the Ironhorse, the P-51, that may be more
like what you are building. Someone also mentioned the F-4U Corsair.
Seriously, a -34 may help give you the feel, but the RV is more responsive
(not sensitive) and has better control harmony. You will drop right in to
how the RV feels compaired to other mounts, no problem.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Drilling and speeds |
> Steve Judd asked:
>
>2) As a practical matter, how important are RPMs for drilling aluminum?
Someone suggested that aluminum likes high speed drills. More correctly
might be to say that small bits like high speeds. The cutting edge on #30
bit is making a much slower speed over the aluminum than a 1/2 inch
bit. The larger the bit the slower you need to turn it. Slow way down for
the fly cutter!
Generally, the harder the material, the slower the speed of the edge needs
to be.
Here are a few speed recommendations from an old handbook:
Annealed 4340 steel 60 feet/minute
Stainless 410 30 "
Aluminum alloys 250 "
So, aluminum likes the high speed drill. How fast does a #30 have to turn
(RPMs) to achieve this 250 fpm value? Cutting too slowly is not harmful
but too fast is. Slow drills only hurt productivity.
Also, the recommended coolant for aluminum is water based
solutions. Milk? I believe many who complain of non-round holes are
feeding too fast. Feed (pushing the drill into the work) is given in
inches per revolution. If one pushes a slow drill as hard as a fast one,
the feed will be faster. Feed for aluminum should be 0.007 ipr and steels
about one fourth that.
>8) Harbor Freight sells a DeVilbiss compressor
Are these the non piston super noisy screamers that drown out the jet traffic?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | ready to buy some tools |
I am about to buy the following Delta power tools:
Delta Model #
Bench Grinder 23-580 or 23-660
Bench top Bandsaw(10" reach) 28-160
Belt/Disc sanding station 31-280
Stand-up Drill Press 17-900
I am pretty set on using Delta because of the quality and longevity that my
father and
other family members have experienced with their woodworking equipment. I
found a source
on the web at a place called Tools Plus (
http://www.tools-plus.com/toolsplus/ ) The prices are significantly better
than Home Depot special order but I was wondering if anybody knows of a
cheaper source for Delta.
Thanks,
Scot
sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Chris Browne wrote:
>
> I have been flying Cessnas and most recently a Maule. I am thinking
> about getting checked out in a T-34 before I fly with Mike, thinking
> that it might help "transition" to an RV (at least as far as handling
> is
> concerned). Opinion from those who have flown both?
No comparison, IMO.
Any T-34 you fly as civilian has a series of bungees in the control
system to limit roll rate - at least that was the way the military
released them...
:)
I have flown both and the RV handles much better. But then we could
fly the -34 with the canopy slid back.
:)
Save the money and put it in your airplane!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Compass For RV6-A |
Bill: Where did Bob get his compass and what did it cost???Jim Brown,NJ,
RV-3&4
________________________________________________________________________________
I have owned both a Grumman Tiger (AA5-A) & a Bonanza (B-35). The ground
handling of the Tiger is most like the RV due to the free castering nose wheel
(
and you can turn your airplane around within its wingspan...) Control harmony
& ballance would be more akin to my B-35 Bonanza. All in all I would get time
in the Tiger/Cheetah/Traveler to get the most bang for the buck if cross
training is in your sights. Otherwise save your cash & join up with mike Seager
while he is in route somewhere & get the real thing. Sorta like virtural sex vs.
real sex.
kempthorne(at)earthlink.net on 03/08/2000 01:03:46 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: T-34
>Chris Browne wrote:
>
>I have been flying Cessnas and most recently a Maule. I am thinking
>about getting checked out in a T-34 before I fly with Mike, thinking
>that it might help "transition" to an RV .....
I probably shouldn't answer as I have never flown a T-34 but it does seem
to me that it would not be much different from my Debonair. Both are
straight tail Bonanza derivatives, no?
I flew with Mike for 3.5 hrs in an RV6a and found it totally different from
my Debonair. Easy to fly and to land but Mike had to keep after me to not
flare so high. I supposed I was still flying the Deb. Maybe flying a T-34
would do more harm than good.
Didn't someone suggest some time in a Grumman Tiger?
If I were you, I would plan my visit to Mike to take one day but have the
next day available. Spend your money on Mike and an RV6a.
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
Chris
I've got a little time in a 300hp T34. It's a great ride but it doesn't fly
anything like an RV. It's fast and aerobatic but the controls are heavy
compared to the RV. Like Hal said, I would get some time with Mike Seager.
Also some Citabria time might be helpful.
Cash Copeland
RV6 wiring and systems
In a message dated 3/8/00 5:16:20 PM GMT Standard Time,
cebrowne(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
I have been flying Cessnas and most recently a Maule. I am thinking
about getting checked out in a T-34 before I fly with Mike, thinking
that it might help "transition" to an RV (at least as far as handling is
concerned). Opinion from those who have flown both?
Chris Browne
-6A finish >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Chris,
IMHO, if you can fly an airplane, any airplane, you can fly (and will
love) an RV. *Legal disclaimer: Us mighty tail wheelers recommend any and
all tricyclers stay away from transitioning to tail wheeling. It is just
Too Dangerous, and requires super human skills beyond that of mere mortals.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LLOYD BENTLEY" <lloydb(at)intekom.co.za> |
| Subject: | aerobatic instruments |
Can anyone out there advise on which brand of electric turn co-ordenator and
A.H. instruments are best suited for aerobatics.
Many thanks LLOYD BENTLEY RV6 FUSE. SOUTH AFRICA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing plastic from sheets. |
CECIL:
HEAT THE PLASTIC WITH A HAIR DRYER & IT'LL PEEL RIGHT OFF.
GEORGE KILISHEK
RIGGING CONTROLS
----- Original Message -----
From: <cecilth(at)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 8:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Removing plastic from sheets.
>
> I am having much difficulty removing the white plastic that covers the
> wing skins. I have had these skins for several years and am now ready to
> finish covering the wings. Some of it is coming off slowly but lots of it
> is just brittle and won't peel off. I have tried heating it but no luck.
> (Top and Bottom). I have also heated it to melting point, scraped with
> wood stick and then MEK. (A mess). I am just about to the point of
> reordering new bottom skins.
> Any ideas out there?
> Cecil Hatfield
> Thousand Oaks, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve - Installation |
| From: | <psmith(at)marin.org> |
Hello Fellow Builders:
I'm about to install my shiny new Andair valve. Van's say they've never
installed one themselves & can't offer any help! I was wondering if anyone
had any tips? Did you install a doubler plate? It seems that the brace
that's included in the kit for Van's brass valve won't be needed. With a bit
of luck I can squeeze the Airflow performance pump into the same space...
Thanks,
Phil, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind Propellers |
>
>
>Prices: TBD
>The 200 Series is our most popular aerobatic two-blade propeller designed
>for the Lycoming O360 engines (180-200 hp).
>This propeller delivers exceptional performance for the modern day aerobatic
>aircraft. The 200 Series propeller is a hydraulically controlled constant
>speed propeller, counter-weighted for aerobatic aircraft. The propeller is
>designed to go to coarse pitch in case of loss of oil pressure, decreasing
>the possibility of engine overspeed.
>
One comment for those considering a Whirlwind prop: Based on the
above, it seems that the 200 series is designed as an aerobatic prop.
I'm not sure what mission the other models will be designed for.
Prop blades are twisted, because the angle of the relative wind
hitting the prop varies with the distance from the hub (the angle
being measured with respect to the plane of rotation of the prop.
Any particular distribution of twist along the blade is really only
the optinum at a small number of conditions. So, depending on what
mission the designer has in mind, he will chose the twist to give
best performance at that condition, and acceptable performance at
other conditions that he cares about. An aerobatic prop is probably
optimized for best performance at low speed, high rpm, and high
power. This would probably make it a very good take-off and climb
prop, but it may not be as efficient as some other props at high
speed, medium power, medium rpm cruise conditions. So, you might
spend more money, and end up losing a few knots cruise speed.
I would be tempted to stick with Van's recommended Hartzells, unless
someone else has already used a particular C/S prop, and you are
happy with the performance that he is reporting.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (dimpling fuse skins)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - Installation |
Phil, I installed my Andair valve in my -6 per plans. Used the same center
console parts from the kit & drilled three holes in the top for #10 screws
that mounts the valve. I also have the facet electric pump mounted
underneath on the inside wall of the console leg. Makes for a compact
installation.
Rick Caldwell
-6 29.9 hrs
Melbourne, FL
>I'm about to install my shiny new Andair valve. Van's say they've never
>installed one themselves & can't offer any help! I was wondering if anyone
>had any tips? Did you install a doubler plate? It seems that the brace
>that's included in the kit for Van's brass valve won't be needed. With a
>bit
>of luck I can squeeze the Airflow performance pump into the same space...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Phil, 80691
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling and speeds |
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 1:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drilling and speeds
>
>
>> Steve Judd asked:
>>
>>2) As a practical matter, how important are RPMs for drilling aluminum?
>
>>Here are a few speed recommendations from an old handbook:
>
> Annealed 4340 steel 60 feet/minute
> Stainless 410 30 "
> Aluminum alloys 250 "
>
>So, aluminum likes the high speed drill. How fast does a #30 have to turn
>(RPMs) to achieve this 250 fpm value?
>hal
The #30 drill must turn at 7600 RPM to achieve a SFPM of 250.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6/6A Seat Ribs |
The problem occurs when you trim the front flange of the rib to fit it
between the front and rear spars. That slides the slope forward, opening
about a 1/8" gap. Since the rear flange is already bent the natural
inclination is to trim the front. I did it too, made a 1/8" spacer and moved
on.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 11:42 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: RV-6/6A Seat Ribs
>
>
> Have any other 6/6A builder's found that the F-615 (outboard)
> seat floor ribs
> are shallower by 1/8 inch than the rest of the inboard ribs?
> Mine are, and
> being anal about straightness I installed 1/8 x 1/2 x about 8 in. shims
> (drilled full of 3/8 holes for lightness) so that the floor
> panels would lay
> flat. Just curious.
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6 Finish kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Removing plastic from sheets. |
Cecil,
Until last week, I couldn't understand the grumbling about removing the
plastic covering. Now I feel your pain. My kits all had the clear plastic
and it peeled off relatively easily. That is until I tried to use some old
trim stock that had that gawd awful white plastic. I managed to gingerly
prod and cajole it from one side but the biggest piece I could get from the
other side was 1/4" square. I wound up grinding it off with a Scotchbrite
wheel. I hope someone has an aluminum-safe solvent to disolve it, otherwise
I'd consider them scrap. In your case it might be an excuse to pop for
1-piece skins.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
> I am having much difficulty removing the white plastic that covers the
> wing skins. I have had these skins for several years and am now ready to
> finish covering the wings. Some of it is coming off slowly but lots of it
> is just brittle and won't peel off. I have tried heating it but no luck.
> (Top and Bottom). I have also heated it to melting point, scraped with
> wood stick and then MEK. (A mess). I am just about to the point of
> reordering new bottom skins.
> Any ideas out there?
> Cecil Hatfield
> Thousand Oaks, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 6/6A tail and wing kit |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jsaecabe(at)juno.com> |
Looking for a 6/6A project. I'm in Ohio. Joe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Non-threaded angle drill? |
The subject line says it all. Does such a beast exist and, if so, where can
I get one? The collets that Avery's sells are only for two specific size
drill bits (3/32 & 1/8), but I want to use my Unibit in an angle drill. Is
this possible? I can't be the first guy to want to do this... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings, wings, wings...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey A. Hawkins" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Four Freshly Overhauled O-320 Engines For Sale... |
Hi Listers,
I'm posting this for my friend Don. He would like to sell the following
four Lycoming 0-320's which are fresh overhauls with accessories and
priced right...
1. O-320 E2A
2. O-320 E3D
3. O-320 D2G (160 H.P.)
4. O-320 B1A
These engines are perfect for RV's! Don is currently building my
0-320 E2D for my RV-8 and has built an 0-320 E2D for my fathers RV-6
which runs very nice. Don does excellent work.
If interested please call:
Don Swords A&P, IA
Don's Dream Machines
Griffin, Georgia
Phone: 770-412-8885
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Seat Ribs |
Gregory Young wrote:
>
> The problem occurs when you trim the front flange of the rib to fit it
> between the front and rear spars. That slides the slope forward, opening
> about a 1/8" gap. Since the rear flange is already bent the natural
> inclination is to trim the front. I did it too, made a 1/8" spacer and moved
> on.
Ah, but this is not so. No matter how much you trim the front of the rib, it's
placment for/aft is set by the aft flange and its position on the rear spar
carry through. The real reason is that the rib needs to be curved outward just
like the upper longeron and armrest rib. Most people miss this fact and put the
rib in straight. The curved rib would need no shims as it becomes shorter.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ - 15.7 hrs and climbing.
>
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go
>
> "Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
> Twain (1835-1910)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | microsoft flight simulator |
can some one tell me the web site that i can get the rv-6 for the flight
simulator
thanks Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - Installation |
Phil,
I fabricated a new bracket that is wide enough to handle the Andair fuel
valve. I made mine out of .040" material I think. Similar in appearance to
Van's original, just wider and a bit thicker.
Instead of riveting the bracket in place, I chose to make it removable with
the selector valve attached to it. Makes servicing and installation easier.
I fabricated and riveted a couple of tabs to where the original bracket would
normally go. These tabs were made from some .063 stock. I put some #6
nutplates behind them and countersunk the holes in the bracket. Now the
whole works it's fully removable and serviceable.
Lastly, with service in mind, I cut the hole in the sheet metal cover plate
that goes over the whole works the same size as the bezel on the Andair
selector so I can just remove the screws from the sheet metal and lift it off
to inspect/repair any plumbing problems. No need to remove the handle or
mounting screws on the Andair valve to get the cover off.
Hope this helps,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bdubsrv6a(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FACET electric fuel pump |
Listers:
A friend of mine, who doesn't have a PC or access to the internet and
building his 8th project from scratch (a sidewinder) asked me to seek an
answer to a question that has come up. He is installing a FACET electric
fuel pump between the fuel selector value and carburator which he is planning
to use as a boost pump for starting and during take offs and landings, etc.
and has been told that when turned off will cut off fuel flow when it is shut
off. If this is the case he is thinking of plumbing a by-pass for times when
the boost is shut off with a back flow preventer when the boost in on. Is
there anyone out there who can shed some light or advice on this that I can
pass on. Many thanks for your expertise.
Bud West
rv-6 tail feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop |
Another way is to use a 3/4 inch open end wrench with the torque wrench in
the other end 90 degrees to the handle of your wrench. This will torque to a
value very close to the setting you have set on your torque wrench.
I am uncomfortable using anything but a rigid frame click type and one that
has been calibrated recently for something as critical as the prop and
observe the correct pattern for tightening.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, March 06, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Torquing Hartzell C/S Prop
>
>Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>>
>> I am finding it difficult to get the Hartzell C/S prop torqued to the
60-70
>> ft-lb value. I have tried two different crow's feet and still can't get
>> even a small-headed Snap-On torque wrench to clear the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure Problem? |
Andy:
A bit late on this so you may have already solved the problem. A couple
more suggestions. If you can hook up a direct reading gauge this would
settle the possibility of an instrument problem.
Unhook your fuel line at the carb. and run a fuel flow test using your boost
pump.
It could easily be your engine driven pump. We have had some brand new pumps
act in a similar manner lately.
If it is actually putting out 9 lbs occasionally as you say the max pressure
for you carb is 8 lbs and min is 1/2 lb. Normally it should run steady at
somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 on your engine driven pump.
Let us know how you are making out.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Date: Saturday, March 04, 2000 2:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pressure Problem?
>
>Can someone help diagnose a fuel pressure problem on a 6A with an
carbureted
>0-360.
>
>The indicated pressure has always hovered smoothly right around 9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Remote Sensing Compass (was Compass For RV6-A) long |
>
> Bill: Where did Bob get his compass and what did it cost???Jim Brown,NJ,
> RV-3&4
Jim and all,
The compass that Bill Von Dane mentioned is a Ritchie M-2 remote sensing
compass designed for marine applications. I first saw one installed in an
RV on someone's web site last year and I am sorry I don't remember the man's
name or URL. I got the system to replace a PAI-700 vertical card compass
that I could not get to work properly where it was installed in my
instrument panel. I had done some testing with the instrument panel on the
work bench. It worked on the bench but not in the airplane, even with the
super-duper compensating balls.
My experience with remote sensing compass is limited to only three flights,
so far. I am very pleased with the way it operates and its accuracy( less
than 5 deg error). Although the compass is digital, the display is a DG
type instrument connected by 20' of cable to a sensing unit. The display is
very steady like a DG, even in moderate turbulence. The sensing unit is
approx 3"wide x 4" long x 2.5" . Its internal workings are gimbaled to
provide accurate readings in up to 45 deg of pitch and roll. The whole
system weighs 27 ounces, if I recall correctly.
I have the small display which at 2.125" inches is slightly smaller than
than the 2.25" stardard small instrument hole. The smallest increment on
the compass card is 5 degress. It takes 12v to operate and is internally
lit. A 3.375" display is also available.
Installation is simple. The sensing unit could easily fit into a wing tip
or behind a baggage compartment.
Mine is temporarily installed (read duct taped) in my RV-6 behind my seat,
forward of the flap actuator tube.
The only possble impediment I see to a "no-brainer" installation is the
cable fitting that plugs into the sensing unit. The plug, 1"+ wide, will
not fit through a "standard" wiring run grommet. So, there will be some
head scratching to do over that.
A downside to some may be that the display card is blue with white numerals.
Bill says he likes the way it looks while I am still getting used to it. It
is definitely not for purists. But, if you value function over form, it is
worth considering.
I bought mine from West Marine for $149.95 plus shipping. You can get info
and pictures at www.westmarine.com and www.ritchienavigation.com
The ultimate question, would I do it again? Yes, but I'm simple minded and
cheap.
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
(VFR, no-gyro panel except for turn coordinator)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: FACET electric fuel pump |
>
>Listers:
>
>A friend of mine, who doesn't have a PC or access to the internet and
>building his 8th project from scratch (a sidewinder) asked me to seek an
>answer to a question that has come up. He is installing a FACET electric
>fuel pump between the fuel selector value and carburator which he is planning
>to use as a boost pump for starting and during take offs and landings, etc.
>and has been told that when turned off will cut off fuel flow when it is shut
>off. If this is the case he is thinking of plumbing a by-pass for times when
>the boost is shut off with a back flow preventer when the boost in on. Is
>there anyone out there who can shed some light or advice on this that I can
>pass on. Many thanks for your expertise.
>
>Bud West
>rv-6 tail feathers
>
Not true. I had a Facet pump between the fuel selector valve and the
engine pump. Only used it on take off and landings. The rest of the
time it easily passed all the fuel needed.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
| Subject: | Re: ready to buy some tools |
Scot,
You might want to check out Toolcrib of the North. They seem to have the
cheapest tools that I can find. I believe that they are now sold through
Amazon.com.
http://www.toolcribofthenorth.com
Ray Murphy
Scot Stambaugh wrote:
>
> I am about to buy the following Delta power tools:
> Delta Model #
> Bench Grinder 23-580 or 23-660
> Bench top Bandsaw(10" reach) 28-160
> Belt/Disc sanding station 31-280
> Stand-up Drill Press 17-900
>
> I am pretty set on using Delta because of the quality and longevity that my
> father and
> other family members have experienced with their woodworking equipment. I
> found a source
> on the web at a place called Tools Plus (
> http://www.tools-plus.com/toolsplus/ ) The prices are significantly better
> than Home Depot special order but I was wondering if anybody knows of a
> cheaper source for Delta.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scot
> sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-threaded angle drill? |
In a message dated 3/8/00 7:00:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, Kbalch1(at)aol.com
writes:
<< The subject line says it all. Does such a beast exist and, if so, where
can
I get one? The collets that Avery's sells are only for two specific size
drill bits (3/32 & 1/8), but I want to use my Unibit in an angle drill. Is
this possible? I can't be the first guy to want to do this... :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch >>
YES!! I got mine last weekend at Northern Tools and Equipment for $28. It is
a "3/8" Angle Drill Attachment" Item number 153890. Northern has stores in
Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Florida, Texas, Tennesee, Virginia, South
Carolina, North Carolina, and Georgia. The only mailing address I have is PO
Box 1219, Burnsville Minnesota 55397. I don't have a URL or phone number.
The 90 degree angle attachment is 3.75 inches from the tip of the chuck to
the back of the assembly. It is a bit bigger than the plastic 90 degree unit
I got from Avery (the one that uses the threaded bits). The unit itself
looks sturdy, with a conventional chuck and all metal construction.
As an aside, I don't know what it is about those threaded bits, but I broke
several of them in no time. Worse, you've gotta call a specialty tool house
to get more...
Good luck locating a Northern outlet,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FACET electric fuel pump |
...
> Not true. I had a Facet pump between the fuel selector valve and the
> engine pump. Only used it on take off and landings. The rest of the
> time it easily passed all the fuel needed.
Well, it MIGHT be true.... he should make sure he's using the same model
pump that Vans sells for use on RVs. There may be some models that do in
fact have that characteristic.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FACET electric fuel pump |
Does the Facet fuel pump us AN fittings?
I see Napa auto stores sell the Facet elec. fuel pump. Is it different than
what Van sells?
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Electric prop$ |
In a message dated 3/8/2000 12:40:54 PM Central Standard Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com writes:
<< Regarding price......most manufacters quote retail pricing to protect
their
distribution chains.( I know, I paid about 1/2 retail for my Sensenich fixed
pitch prop.) Does anyone have a relationship with a prop shop, wholesaler or
distributer that would offer us or Vans a more realistic pricing
structure..??? >>
team rocket is a OEM for MT props. You might want to give mark fredricks a
call. They the 3 bladed areobatic prop for 9000 i believe. Its on their
website if anyone is interested.
www.teamrocketaircraft.com
chris WIlcox
f-1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatic instruments |
> Can anyone out there advise on which brand of electric turn co-ordenator and
> A.H. instruments are best suited for aerobatics.
>
> Many thanks LLOYD BENTLEY RV6 FUSE. SOUTH AFRICA.
Good question. I was planning on installing an eletric AI (AH) too. I had
been thinking that if I installed a switch, I could turn in off for
aeribatics and perhaps even most VFR flights to conserve its life. This may
not be the best solution, though. any comments out there?
Dave Leonard
RV-6, Mazda 13B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com |
> The T-34B
> is a dog, performance wise (if I remember right it has a 225 hp engine)
> and is Heavy. I trained in the T-34C and the two aircraft are light
> years apart.
>
I agree, the T34C is absolutely fantastic with light and crisp controls. It
of course easily outperforms even lancair 360's. On the other hand, it costs
1.3mil, burns 20+ gal/hr and requires a professional crew to keep it
maintained. I felt that it handled very similar (although slightly better
than) the RV-8A. There are a few of the 'Charlies' that are privately owned,
if you get a chance, fly one. Haven't flown the 'Bravo' yet.
Dave Leonard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SMOKIN222(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ok, now >I'VE< gone and done it |
Appreciate the feelings of the unknown. Took the first plunge like so many
others with emph delivery yesterday. May wife kept saying, c'mon to bed,
you've got to go to work in the morning. Good luck. We're probably gonna
need it.
Bldg 81220==Skid
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Non-threaded angle drill? |
In a message dated 3/8/2000 7:13:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
> US Industrial sells a 1/4"x28 threaded cone collet/chuck that will take
> your 1/4" Unibit shank. Part# TP57 $26.00
>
> Boyd
Thanks, that's exactly what I needed. It's ordered and on its way.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Non-threaded angle drill? |
In a message dated 3/9/2000 12:26:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
> YES!! I got mine last weekend at Northern Tools and Equipment for $28. It
is
> a "3/8" Angle Drill Attachment" Item number 153890. Northern has stores
in
> Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Florida, Texas, Tennesee, Virginia, South
> Carolina, North Carolina, and Georgia. The only mailing address I have is
> PO
> Box 1219, Burnsville Minnesota 55397. I don't have a URL or phone number.
>
> The 90 degree angle attachment is 3.75 inches from the tip of the chuck to
> the back of the assembly. It is a bit bigger than the plastic 90 degree
> unit
> I got from Avery (the one that uses the threaded bits). The unit itself
> looks sturdy, with a conventional chuck and all metal construction.
>
> As an aside, I don't know what it is about those threaded bits, but I
broke
> several of them in no time. Worse, you've gotta call a specialty tool
house
> to get more...
>
> Good luck locating a Northern outlet,
>
> Kyle Boatright
Thanks, Kyle. I just ordered something similar from US Tool. No delicate
little threaded bits for me! :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: microsoft flight simulator |
> can some one tell me the web site that i can get the rv-6 for the flight
> simulator
> thanks Bill
Bill,
Go to Hanger X, you can download the file from there. Go to
http://home.att.net/~david2.koelzer/hangarx/index.html
Charlie Kuss
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-threaded angle drill? |
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> The subject line says it all. Does such a beast exist and, if so, where can
> I get one? The collets that Avery's sells are only for two specific size
> drill bits (3/32 & 1/8), but I want to use my Unibit in an angle drill. Is
> this possible? I can't be the first guy to want to do this... :-)
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings, wings, wings...
>
Ken,
Cleaveland has chuck that will accept 1/16 - 1/4 inch bits, including the
smaller unibits. I use the heck out of mine - wish I had ordered it sooner.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jaugilas <jaugilas(at)allways.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-threaded angle drill? |
About using Unibits and big diameter drills.
I would like to suggest and alternative because the use of a Unibit in a
delicate angle drill might hasten the demise of that angle drill.
Unibits are unbalanced drills. they have only one cutting edge. The opposite
action is curtailed by the round body of the drill in the hole. This has much
friction and aluminum is very sticky.
Added to this is the increased diameter leverage. I takes a lot more to
rotate a 1/4" bit vs. a 1/8". I believe twice the dia. is the square of the
torque. Then go to 1/2" square again.
I been cheap so far. I've been using an angle grinder w/collets for 1/8" and
3/32". This sometimes has trouble turning the 1/8" when it is in the hole to
start. This will never rotate a Unibit doing any work. What it does do good,
it does it around 20,000rpm. What it does drill it does it fast.
A suggestion, I have used a burr to make all sorts of shaped holes. Either
with straight or angle drills. If you have only a few to do this might be the
way. I also use a burr to trim corners and edges in assembly when it is
impractical to remove the parts or just can't do it any other way.
Burrs are better than stones because they don't clog but work the same only
much faster.
Good Luck
Cheap suggestions are sometimes what they are worth.
Bill Jaugilas
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/8/2000 7:13:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
>
> > US Industrial sells a 1/4"x28 threaded cone collet/chuck that will take
> > your 1/4" Unibit shank. Part# TP57 $26.00
> >
> > Boyd
>
> Thanks, that's exactly what I needed. It's ordered and on its way.
>
> Ken
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Non-threaded angle drill? |
In a message dated 3/9/2000 8:44:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jaugilas(at)allways.net writes:
> About using Unibits and big diameter drills.
>
> I would like to suggest and alternative because the use of a Unibit in a
> delicate angle drill might hasten the demise of that angle drill.
>
> Unibits are unbalanced drills. they have only one cutting edge. The
opposite
> action is curtailed by the round body of the drill in the hole. This has
> much
> friction and aluminum is very sticky.
>
> Added to this is the increased diameter leverage. I takes a lot more to
> rotate a 1/4" bit vs. a 1/8". I believe twice the dia. is the square of the
> torque. Then go to 1/2" square again.
>
> I been cheap so far. I've been using an angle grinder w/collets for 1/8"
and
> 3/32". This sometimes has trouble turning the 1/8" when it is in the hole
to
> start. This will never rotate a Unibit doing any work. What it does do
good,
> it does it around 20,000rpm. What it does drill it does it fast.
>
> A suggestion, I have used a burr to make all sorts of shaped holes. Either
> with straight or angle drills. If you have only a few to do this might be
> the
> way. I also use a burr to trim corners and edges in assembly when it is
> impractical to remove the parts or just can't do it any other way.
> Burrs are better than stones because they don't clog but work the same only
> much faster.
>
> Good Luck
> Cheap suggestions are sometimes what they are worth.
>
> Bill Jaugilas
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the alternative idea. I ordered the collet chuck this morning and
will see how it works out. I only need to drill a few holes with this method
(angle drill w'unibit), so I'm hoping I can get away with it. Buying a few
burrs is probably a good idea anyway, since I'm sure I'll use them sooner or
later.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-threaded angle drill? |
<< Kbalch1(at)aol.com >>
Ken,
I made an adapter to do this. Give me a call 817-439-3280.....George
Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Jig Available for 6 |
I'm putting the fuselage on its tires today. Have a
wooden jig available to a good home. Located in
Hoopeston, Illinois, 150 miles south of Chicago along
the Illinois and Indiana borders.
The frame will split in the middle for easier
transportation.
Dan DeNeal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring of Flasher (Wig Wag) |
Recently someone posted their wiring for the Gall's flasher unit. I can't
seem to find this posting. Could you send this to me off line. Thanks in
advance. Also, where did you locate (install) this unit.
rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Can the NavAid be connected direct to a late model handheld GPS such as
Lowrance or is a coupler necessary?
Have a great day!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Morris RV Breakfast 3-5-00 |
Last Sunday a bunch of RV's the Chicago/Indianapolis area showed up for
breakfast at Morris, IL. We haven't heard much from the Midwest group
lately since those folks in the south/southwest and Denver have been
agressive in getting their planes in the air . Check out some pics of
the Morris gathering here:
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/morris.htm
Mike & Beth Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
name="Morris RV Breakfast 3-5-00.url"
filename="Morris RV Breakfast 3-5-00.url"
[DEFAULT]
BASEURL=http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/morris.htm
[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/morris.htm
Modified ECF9BCD889BF01E2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il> |
| Subject: | Newbe with ambitions... |
Hello, list and people.
Just joined today.
I have a question - I'm looking for as much information as
possible comparing the Zlin Aerobatic trainers with either the
RV-6A or the RV-8A (even though the side-by-side sitting of the
Zlin is more similar to the 6A than the 8A).
Another thing - did any of you people (are you all guys, or are
there some girls also among RV builders?) contemplate installing
the Dynacam engine, as it became certified now? Also, what a
prop will you fit to such a monster of an engine (525 ft - lbs,
200 HP @ 2000 rpm max, 650 ft - lbs, 175 HP @ 1600 rpm cruise)
for simple aerobatics?
Thank you all.
Ronen.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Jig Available for 6 |
Dan, I'm located here in Plainfield, IL and I'd be very interested in your
jig if it's still avaliable.
Mike & Beth Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 08:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Jig Available for 6
>
> I'm putting the fuselage on its tires today. Have a
> wooden jig available to a good home. Located in
> Hoopeston, Illinois, 150 miles south of Chicago along
> the Illinois and Indiana borders.
>
> The frame will split in the middle for easier
> transportation.
>
> Dan DeNeal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Attachment |
Hello RV listers, especially -8 builders,
I've been doing alot of research on the canopy attachment methods that
builders have used to attach the 801 canopy, and the WD819 frame
intersection. From what I hear the real problem comes from the "squeeze"
stress that pulled rivets cause, which tend to fracture the plexi,
especially when the 2 parts are not at an exact 90 deg fit. In Jeff Ludwigs
-8 he drilled and tapped most of the attachment points which allowed him to
control the setting pressure when fitted.
I'm at a decision point and looking for thoughts on using 6-32 or 8-32 bolts
w/ locknuts to secure the plexi and WD819 frame.
That currently calls for AACQ4-4, 48 times. (I sat in the fuselage and
closed the framework and could see that the extending washers and nuts would
not cause interference in the cockpit)
Anyone have any comments ?
Thanks,
Doug Gardner -8A 80717
Palm harbor Fla
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Right Angle Drill-Non Threaded |
Harbour Freight sells a right angle drill attachment with a standard Jacob's
chuck for about $13. I use it frequently when I need to put a unibit or
other sized bit that I dont have for my threaded angel attachment.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Attachment |
Doug, I have seen two rv-8 canopies cracked apparantly
by not following the recommended directions from
Van's. It appears that both of the cracks I have seen
are at the left aft side of the canopy and both guys
added a rivet where it says not to. I believe if you
take your time and do it "as per" you shouldnt have a
problem just a suggestion.
Glenn Williams
8A R/H WING
--- "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)"
wrote:
> (GA01)"
>
> Hello RV listers, especially -8 builders,
>
> I've been doing alot of research on the canopy
> attachment methods that
> builders have used to attach the 801 canopy, and the
> WD819 frame
> intersection. From what I hear the real problem
> comes from the "squeeze"
> stress that pulled rivets cause, which tend to
> fracture the plexi,
> especially when the 2 parts are not at an exact 90
> deg fit. In Jeff Ludwigs
> -8 he drilled and tapped most of the attachment
> points which allowed him to
> control the setting pressure when fitted.
>
> I'm at a decision point and looking for thoughts on
> using 6-32 or 8-32 bolts
> w/ locknuts to secure the plexi and WD819 frame.
> That currently calls for AACQ4-4, 48 times. (I sat
> in the fuselage and
> closed the framework and could see that the
> extending washers and nuts would
> not cause interference in the cockpit)
>
> Anyone have any comments ?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Gardner -8A 80717
> Palm harbor Fla
> Canopy
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry" <larryjenison(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Insterments For Sale |
Hi Fellow RVers,
Just finished rebuilding a 3. I have the following extra parts for sale.
1. cht/egt gage with probes for four cylinders and four position switch.
2.Edo-Aire 360 nav/com with built in vor,with tray.
3.combo gage/ oil pressure,oil temp,fuel pressure,oat.
4.dash mount wet compass.
If interested please contact off list.
Thanks Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Attachment |
I installed my RV-6A canopy with the AN equivalent of 6-32 flush screws,
think washers and lock nuts. I am building the tip-up canopy and found that
I could use them everywhere except into the roll bar. I agree with you that
it is easier by far to control the stress that you put on the assembly when
you use these threaded fasteners. It looked nice on the inside, too.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF
-----Original Message-----I've been doing alot of research
on the canopy attachment methods that
builders have used to attach the 801 canopy, and the WD819
frame
intersection. From what I hear the real problem comes from
the "squeeze"
stress that pulled rivets cause, which tend to fracture the
plexi,
especially when the 2 parts are not at an exact 90 deg fit.
In Jeff Ludwigs
-8 he drilled and tapped most of the attachment points which
allowed him to
control the setting pressure when fitted.
I'm at a decision point and looking for thoughts on using
6-32 or 8-32 bolts
w/ locknuts to secure the plexi and WD819 frame.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Attachment |
Doug and others: I finished my RV-8 in August of 1998. For the first year my
canopy was perfect. Then, the next summer, I left it outside in the HOT
Texas sun for an afternoon. I believe that caused some cracking that I
noticed afterward-all from rivets at the very rear of the canopy frame. This
past December, while sitting in my hanger, I got about a 3" crack also from a
rivet hole at the rear of my canopy/frame.
I have talked with several other builder who have not had this problem, and
one or two who have. I am sure it is due to the thermal
contraction/expansion differences in the plexi and steel.
I don't want to make everyone building an -8 scared, because the problem I
encountered is NOT widespread or we would all be hearing about it. I plan on
drilling out the rear-most 20 rivets or so, and replacing them with #6 screws
with rubber "bushings" around them into oversize holes secured with AN364
lock nuts. For the rubber, I will use R/C model rubber fuel lines that seem
about the right size. (This is how my windshield is attached). In the
windshield frame I tapped it. I don't feel the canopy frame is thick enough
to tap, so I will run the screws all the way through the tube.I have been
waiting for the daytime temps to warm up a bit before doing this work. Hope
no one else has the same problem as me.
I might suggest using this technique only at the rear of the canopy/frame
where the problem seems to be localized. Mark Goldberg RV-8 N982RV 90 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Medical certification help |
Sorry to be a little off the subject guys but I just had to pass this on...
I'm an insulin dependent diabetic pilot and I had to jump through flaming hoops
to get approval for my special issuance medical. At the time I applied for it
there were only 19 insulin dependent diabetic pilots in the entire U.S.
The Doc I used has a special talent for packaging your medical info just the way
the FAA likes to see it. I received my approval in record time. In my case it
was a long distance consult since I live in Texas and his practice is in
California.
He can be reached at his website http://www.flightsurgeon.com or email at
skydoc(at)sprintmail.com if anyone else can use his services.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Attachment |
Check the archives on this one. I posted a long story on how I did mine.
Basically I used riv-nuts or "collared nuts" . You normally use a setting tool
to pull these riv-nuts...I let them float in holes I drilled in my canopy tubing
& used #6 screws thru the plexi to the collared nuts. I also oversized the plexi
holes so the #6 screws would float. The Riv-nuts have a collar at the end which-
-when pulled snug with the #6 screw-- snug upto the canopy tubing. I finished up
with .016 angle as vanity strips inside to hide the screw/rivnut/frame attach
area. The vanity pieces also were the fabric hold-down thingies--my canopy has
a
rat skin material running around the inside of the canopy. Exterior---- I used
poly-fill and a credit card (as a applicator) ...you can flex the credit card to
a "bow" shape and drag it along the seam of the plexi & aluminum to give a
great looking fillet/juncture. Finish up with pipe insulation as your sand paper
"shapper" or form to sand the fillet contour.....I am very pleased with the
results. My hanger mate used the Vans method as outlined in the plans and his
turned out very nice also.
douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com on 03/09/2000 10:18:32 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy Attachment
Hello RV listers, especially -8 builders,
I've been doing alot of research on the canopy attachment methods that
builders have used to attach the 801 canopy, and the WD819 frame
intersection. From what I hear the real problem comes from the "squeeze"
stress that pulled rivets cause, which tend to fracture the plexi,
especially when the 2 parts are not at an exact 90 deg fit. In Jeff Ludwigs
-8 he drilled and tapped most of the attachment points which allowed him to
control the setting pressure when fitted.
I'm at a decision point and looking for thoughts on using 6-32 or 8-32 bolts
w/ locknuts to secure the plexi and WD819 frame.
That currently calls for AACQ4-4, 48 times. (I sat in the fuselage and
closed the framework and could see that the extending washers and nuts would
not cause interference in the cockpit)
Anyone have any comments ?
Thanks,
Doug Gardner -8A 80717
Palm harbor Fla
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-threaded angle drill? |
In a message dated 3/8/00 11:19:38 PM Central Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< YES!! I got mine last weekend at Northern Tools and Equipment for $28. It
is
a "3/8" Angle Drill Attachment" >>
Home Depot also sells a tool like this. Not sure of the price.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Attachment |
I should have added to my previous post that I used Tinnerman countersink
washers under the heads of each of the screws and I did not tighten them to
the nth degree! I wanted to leave a little room for the screws to "rock" as
the assembly heated and contracted.
Steve Soule
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Fuselage jig available/Tampa Bay |
Listers..
I have a -8 fuselage jig available in the Tampa Bay area. It's one p.c.,
very straight, w/ tapcons.
$85.00 Also have factory wing tips, fuel valve, assorted jigs.
Doug Gardner -8A #80717
Palm Harbor Fla (727 784 2600)
Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Removing plastic from sheets. |
Next plane I build, I will take it off immediately before it gets
brittle.
Cecil
writes:
>
>Cecil,
>Until last week, I couldn't understand the grumbling about removing
>the
>plastic covering. Now I feel your pain. My kits all had the clear
>plastic
>and it peeled off relatively easily. That is until I tried to use some
>old
>trim stock that had that gawd awful white plastic. I managed to
>gingerly
>prod and cajole it from one side but the biggest piece I could get
>from the
>other side was 1/4" square. I wound up grinding it off with a
>Scotchbrite
>wheel. I hope someone has an aluminum-safe solvent to disolve it,
>otherwise
>I'd consider them scrap. In your case it might be an excuse to pop for
>1-piece skins.
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
>RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go
>
>"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." -
>Mark
>Twain (1835-1910)
>
>> I am having much difficulty removing the white plastic that covers
>the
>> wing skins. I have had these skins for several years and am now
>ready to
>> finish covering the wings. Some of it is coming off slowly but lots
>of it
>> is just brittle and won't peel off. I have tried heating it but no
>luck.
>> (Top and Bottom). I have also heated it to melting point, scraped
>with
>> wood stick and then MEK. (A mess). I am just about to the point of
>> reordering new bottom skins.
>> Any ideas out there?
>> Cecil Hatfield
>> Thousand Oaks, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Fuselage Jig |
RV-4 Fuselage jig available soon in Modesto, California.
$100 or best offer.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List Perspective |
Randy,
Glad to have you back!!
Remember the "Delete Key"
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - Installation |
Steve,
We installed a doubler plate and it worked great.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | Re: NavAid Tweaking |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> Can the NavAid be connected direct to a late model handheld GPS such as
> Lowrance or is a coupler necessary?
>
> Have a great day!
> Denny
>
Denny--
For a hand help GPS you the 5-pin DIN (PC) cable supplied by the
manufacturer. This transmits the NMEA/Argus data to a coupler, like
their "Smart Coupler II" that translates for the Navaid unit.
Boyd
RV Super6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Quick" <paulq(at)global.co.za> |
anyone know if van's have changed their address or moved ,i get no answer
from support any longer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E.Capen" <Ralph.E.Capen(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Leaving the list - but I'll be back |
Due to a change in jobs.
Be Back as soon as I'm settled.
Ralph Capen
RV6A Richardson, TX N822AR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List Perspective *Hit Delete Key Now!* |
Randy,
Glad to see you back! (and not just because I'm one of them "California
Liberal")
Chuck
P.S. I refrained from entering the RV religious discussions because most
who have "The Answer"... simply misunderstood the question and don't realize
that their truth wasn't meant to share with others.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pressure Problem solved |
>
> Let us know how you are making out.
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
>
Problem solved!
After inspecting all the fuel lines and boost pump input (everything was clean)
the low and fluctuating fuel pressure problem was narrowed down to either the
engine driven pump or the gauge/sender.
I placed a call to Mitchell, the maker of the instrument, who promptly told me
that the indicated numbers sound like a bad sender. They asked for the sender to
be returned. Less then 2 days after dropping it in the mail, Mitchell called
back saying that the sender was faulty and that the way it was bad was
indicative of the readings I was recieving (zero psi until around 2000 rpm, and
then 3-4 lbs lower than usual)
Without question and without charge Mitchell is sending me a new sender, even
though the old one was over 3 years old.
Kudos to Mitchell Instruments for exceptional customer service and support.
Also, thank you to all those on the list who answered my queries and suggested
solutions.
More praise for Mitchell and Pacific Coast Avionics: To get Mitchell's phone
number, I called Pacific Coast Avionics. In addition to asking for the number,
I
asked about the quality of the Mitchell line, and if I should be upgrading to a
"better" (meaning more expensive) gauge. At that point, they probably could have
easily sold me any $3-400 FP gauge they wanted. Instead, they told me that there
are not any more accurate or reliable gauges to be bought, that the Mitchell
products are first class, and that if needed, I could get a replacement sender
from them for a paltry $28. Once again, I am impressed at their honesty and
customer service. So many other companies would have seen this as nothing more
than an opportunity to purge the balance of my credit limit.
Once again, thanks to everyone who helped.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I emailed them as recently as Tuesday and got a reply from Scott Risan.
Address is support(at)vansaircraft.com It
did take a day or so for them to respond.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Quick [SMTP:paulq(at)global.co.za]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 10:47 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: van's support
anyone know if van's have changed their address or moved ,i get no
answer
from support any longer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Attachment |
>
>Hello RV listers, especially -8 builders,
>
>I've been doing alot of research on the canopy attachment methods that
>builders have used to attach the 801 canopy, and the WD819 frame
>intersection. From what I hear the real problem comes from the "squeeze"
>stress that pulled rivets cause, which tend to fracture the plexi,
>especially when the 2 parts are not at an exact 90 deg fit. In Jeff Ludwigs
>-8 he drilled and tapped most of the attachment points which allowed him to
>control the setting pressure when fitted.
>
>I'm at a decision point and looking for thoughts on using 6-32 or 8-32
>bolts
>w/ locknuts to secure the plexi and WD819 frame.
>That currently calls for AACQ4-4, 48 times. (I sat in the fuselage and
>closed the framework and could see that the extending washers and nuts
>would
>not cause interference in the cockpit)
>
>Anyone have any comments ?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Gardner -8A 80717
>Palm harbor Fla
>Canopy
Doug,
I can see why a guy would want to copy Jeff's machine to the nth degree!
GORGEOUS machine. The five hours I spent with him in it showed that it flies
as good as it looks.
I went with the pop rivets on my canopy and have NO cracks anywhere. I have
61 hours on it now, including a couple of not-gentle canopy openings and
closings. Yes, it does send the pucker factor to "10" when each rivet is
pulled, but nothing at all happened. I did all of my canopy work in the
heart of the summer. It was VERY hot and I would not have done it during the
winter. Down in Florida, you should be fine most any time of the year. I
even managed to knock the canopy off the sawhorses while I was trimming it
with the cutoff disc. Thwop!! Down it went onto the floor. Ack!!! After
considering putting the rivet gun to my head and ending it all, I checked
the canopy. No problems. It flexed all the way closed at the front end
(windshield had already been cut away) momentarily as it hit the floor. The
stuff is pretty forgiving as long as it's WARM. I think that's the secret
right there. Dress the edges to a very smooth finish and keep the plexi
warm. You should be fine with rivets per the instructions. The screws and
nuts will allow you to easily remove the entire bubble should you ever have
to. That does have a lot of appeal. If you just feel better with Jeff's
method, then by all means use it. This is supposed to be fun!
Best of luck to you.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
61 hours. 2.8 hours today at 200mph.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SNF Meeting Place |
Listers
I have talked to Ed Cole about an idea of some badges for the group, maybe
I can come up with a logo and put names and the email name as well, so we
know who's who when we meet. I will put together something this week if I get
a response or some more ideas.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: van's support |
I used the e-mail support link on their web page earlier this week and got a
response within a day and a half. That has been the typical response time
for me, pretty good considering the volume they probably get.
Address is support(at)vansaircraft.com
Good luck,
Chris Hand
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Constant Speed Prop |
List: After getting my complete RV6-A-QB with Vans new 0-360-A1A set up for
the fixed pitch prop I have changed my mind !
The good news is I have the latest cowl and the firewall mod was
ordered but I believe the spinner and backing plate will need changed.
I hope Van's will give me a credit on the spinner and backing plate
exchange ? Should everything else be OK ? Does anyone know how long it
takes to get a prop and governor? My AP insists the Woodward Governors show
up less with problems in his shop?
Thanks
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mel Jordan" <tmjordan(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Web Store |
I notice that nobody has commented on Van's new Web Store. You can now
order every part you can imagine directly on the net from Van's. Go to the
Van's web site, go to the "Web Store" and click on the underlined words
"the list". This brings up a text file (that you can download if you want)
of every part in you plane plus everything in the accessory catalog with the
part number, description and price. Since nobody has mentioned it, I
wondered if others knew it was there.
Regards,
Mel Jordan, RV6A
Tucson, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List Perspective |
>In life, in career and most recently on the RV-List I've gotten lots of
>guidance and mentoring from those who have more experience, clearer
>perspective and maybe just more common sense. All the people who have
>helped me never asked for anything in return although I feel compelled to
>repay them.
About 47 years ago, a kindly gentleman who ran a radio
and TV repair shop put up with a lot of stupid questions
and interruptions from a kid who dropped into his shop
on the way home from school most days. He even asked
the kid to have his mom drive over to the house some
evening whereupon he loaded the trunk with a veritable
treasure trove of electronic goodies.
I distinctly recall a note I found amongst the stuff
as I unpacked the box. He allowed as how there was
very little he needed or could use from me but asked
that I repay the debt with a sharing of my own resources
with others at an appropriate time in the future.
For the worse, better or indifference, we are all products
of the lives who have touched us in the past. Those
of us who have benefitted the most have the greatest
debts to repay. Institutions like amateur built airplanes
demonstrate some of the finest opportunities to
make good on past promises.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Embroidered RV's |
I really want to thank all of you that ordered shirts from me. The response
from the RV list was incredible. I have been swamped. I hope that you all
liked them. I am finally finishing up the orders from my first posting, and
would like to know if there are any other RVers out there that would like to
have their RV paint scheme embroidered on a very nice polo shirt. I do not
charge a setup fee for designs, however I have to have at least a 4 shirt
order. Prices for the RV-List is only $20 per shirt plus $4 shipping. I
really want to thank everyone who responded the first time I posted. You guys
are really great.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
>I've always three pointed my RV-4. In any wind condition I use full flaps
> not
>to loose altitude but to quit flying when I get down to the runway ) and I
>three
>point land. If it's a stiff crosswind, I land on one main and the tail. I
>hold it there
>until the other main comes down.
> I met an old man in St. Mary's Ohio that taught flying for years and
>years at
>Ohio State. I asked him what he thought about only three pointing my RV-4
>and
>not learning to be more proficient at wheel landings. He told me that he
>taught in
>Cessna 120's and 140's for years, and the reason why they taught wheel
>landings back then was because when they landed in a crosswind, they didn't
>have enough control over the airplane. He claimed that with an airplane like
>the
>RV-4 you had more than enough control and the idea of a safe landing was to
>make the airplane quit flying as soon as you could. With a three point
>landing you were going slower at touchdown and would be less likely to get
>out of shape on rollout.
> After 800 hrs. flying from coast to coast and in all kinds of weather,
>I agree
>with him.
>Jim Nolan
>N444JN
>
>Jim,
What you are saying applies to me big time, as is pretty much the way I
figure it. I land in private strips in the north of BC and never attempt a
wheel landing as there is limited space, soft ground and a changing
situation can be expected, so as you say the object is to land at the
slowest speed.
In my experiences with the different tail wheel aircraft I have flown, a
wheel landing is reserved for the show where there is a concrete runway,
lots of length and a final approch that requires somewhat less attention.
WHoops! I'm sure this will get flack!
But really, the piont is - when the landing really screws up, having that
tail down and being at the slowest
landing speed you may avoid a mishap.
Ed Hobenshield - Eustace, your experiences would be gold on this topic!
>
Ed Hobenshield edhob(at)kermode.net
Kitwanga, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-6 fuselage questions |
I am in the process of clamping the bulkheads to the jig. The main longerons
are bent (not fun getting those right on).
Question:
With the bulkheads centered and heights measured shouldn't a straight line
exist from the center along the bottom of the Fuse. (top when in jig) of
F-605 to F-612? I have a 1/8" or more gap at F-608. When I check the top of
the Fuse. (bottom when in jig) I have a nice straight line.
Question:
Does F-604 sit on top of the main longerons when in the jig? I believe it
does but want to check for sure.
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Book status and Groton Seminar Info |
Got shipped to Charlottesville VA early this week and didn't
get as much done on R9 book as I'd planned but I've got the
work in the laptop and we're making good use of the 6 mile
high office. Leaving again in the morning for Groton CT for
our second weekend seminar of the year. If anyone not already
registered chooses to attend you're welcome to just show up.
We're doing something a little different this trip. We've got
a suitcase full of tools that will be used for some real time
demonstrations. Attendee names will be drawn for taking some
of them home.
>The directions to Survival Systems at the Groton, CT airport are as follows:
>From the North ( Providence, RI): RT 95 South > take Exit 88 > Left onto RT
>117 > follow to end > at "T" turn right onto US 1 South > (follow signs to
>Groton Airport) > turn Left onto Tower Ave.
>
> Survival Systems is the large Blue Bldg across from the terminal.
>
>
>>From the South (New York): RT 95 North > take Exit 88 > at the bottom of
the
>exit ramp take a Right > follow to end > at "T" turn right onto US 1 South >
>(follow signs to Groton Airport) > turn Left onto Tower Ave.
>
> Survival Systems is the large Blue Bldg across from the terminal.
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring question |
>> i am going to use a two-bus architecture as advocated by electric bob. i
>> have a question about the feed from the main bus to the essential bus.
>>
>> electric bob's diagrams show a one-way diode allowing current to flow from
>> the main bus via short unportected wires to the essential bus under normal
>> ops. when the "e-bus alternate feed" switch is thrown, then the e-bus gets
>> power from the hot side of the battery, and the diode prevents the
essential
>> bus from feeding the main bus.
>>
>> my questions is the following. why not send both feeds through the e-bus
>> switch? in the normal position, power could flow from the main bus via a
>> fused feeder. in the alternate position, the e-bus would still get power
>> from the hot side of the battery, and there would be no electrical
>> connection between the e-bus and the main bus.
>>
>> then the diode would not be needed. in addition, a longer, fused feeder
>> from the main bus would allow you to place to fuse panels further apart if
>> necessary.
>>
>> am i overlooking something? any reason why this would not be just as
>> reliable and safe, if not more so, now that we have reduced the parts count
>> and used a protected circuit?
The goal is to have a dual supply path to the e-bus with nothing
in common between the two. A single switch as you propose could
leave you with no essential bus if the switch craps.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aerobatic instruments |
. I had
> been thinking that if I installed a switch, I could turn in off for
> aeribatics and perhaps even most VFR flights to conserve its life. This
may
> not be the best solution, though. any comments out there?
>
> Dave Leonard
At OSH 98 I talked to the Sigma Tek guys about this, and their response was
buy the cagable horizon (if going pneumatic, which I am) and put a valve on
the air line for both the horizon and DG. Cage the horizon and shut off the
air supplies (or "not" air) before starting the engine prior to an aerobatic
flight. This should prevent damage to the bearings. Not to the point of
ordering instruments yet, so can't confirm if this works or not.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop |
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Does anyone know how long it
> takes to get a prop and governor?
Tom;
I talked to Bill B at Van's last Friday and he is saying four months for an
engine and prop. I ordered an O-360 and Hartzell prop two days ago.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 fuselage questions |
Hello John,
If you go to Sam Buchanan's
site,<http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse3.html> called The RV
Journal.
Then go to his section called Building The Fuselage, on page three down near
the bottom you will find the solution to your question.
I did it and I'm glad!
Pictures are worth thousands of words!
Thanks Sam B.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 fuselage questions
>
> I am in the process of clamping the bulkheads to the jig.
>on top of the main longerons when in the jig? I believe it
> does but want to check for sure.
>
> John Danielson
>
===========================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bdubsrv6a(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FACET electric fuel pump |
To all responding listers;
Thanks so much for your feedback. I've printed all of your responses for
delivery to my friend Ray. He has helped me so much, I just could refuse to
help him.
For all of you folks out there who are gracious enough to help, thank you and
keep doing what you do best and that is giving help and assistance to we who
are less knowledgeable on a subject that we all love or we wouldn't be
envolved in a project that so complex or expensive. Especially since I'm
just getting started and need your expertise!! I hope to reciprocate when
get to the place where many of you are.
Kindest regards,
Bud West
RV-6a tail feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Silly question -- Rotating Tires |
Seems silly but I don't know for sure -- when rotating the tires I can just
swap the wheels, and not actually take the tires off, right? Please say
yes...
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question -- Rotating Tires |
Randall:
No...
You have to remove the tires from the wheels and swap ends...this way you
get even wear on the inside and outside tread. This is the way to maximize
tire life, by the way. Tires tend to wear on the outside because you always
touch down on the outside until weight is on the wheels, so it doesn't do
any good to just exchange wheels from right to left. If you do this, the
outside will still be the outside.
This is not difficult once you figure out a good way to break the bead on
your tires...a large vice helps (and a couple of pieces of 2 x 4).
Pat Hatch
RV-4 N17PH @ INT
RV-6 N44PH (reserved) Wing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 2:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: Silly question -- Rotating Tires
>
> Seems silly but I don't know for sure -- when rotating the tires I can
just
> swap the wheels, and not actually take the tires off, right? Please say
> yes...
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cmcgough <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question -- Rotating Tires |
yes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question -- Rotating Tires |
In a message dated 3/9/00 10:51:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
randallh(at)home.com writes:
<< Seems silly but I don't know for sure -- when rotating the tires I can just
swap the wheels, and not actually take the tires off, right? >>
IMO it depends on how the tires are wearing. Isn't the only point of
rotating tires to get maximum life out of them? So, if the wheel swap
without tire removal puts the worn spot in the same place as the wheel you
just removed you haven't accomplished much. It would then require tire
removal to optimize the wear pattern. I wouldn't think that rolling
direction makes much difference on non-radial tires.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
-thru a co-worker at my wife's new job I have been talking with Greg
Davenport who teaches survival skills. He is a former air force survival
instructor, has written the book "Wilderness Survival" and been featured on
"48 Hours" and "BBC" during the Gulf war. He has offered to teach a class
directed towards survival skills for pilots and the situations applicable
to flying. His web site is www.ssurvival.com.
Reply to me off-line if you would be interested in attending a class for
pilots. Kevin N3773(at)mciworld.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Silly question -- Rotating Tires |
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
no
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
----------
>From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Silly question -- Rotating Tires
>Date: Thu, Mar 9, 2000, 0:23
>
>
>Seems silly but I don't know for sure -- when rotating the tires I can just
>swap the wheels, and not actually take the tires off, right? Please say
>yes...
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
>Portland, OR
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote Sensing Compass (was Compass For RV6-A) long |
>
>
>My experience with remote sensing compass is limited to only three flights,
>so far. I am very pleased with the way it operates and its accuracy( less
>than 5 deg error). Although the compass is digital, the display is a DG
>type instrument connected by 20' of cable to a sensing unit. The display
is
>very steady like a DG, even in moderate turbulence. The sensing unit is
>approx 3"wide x 4" long x 2.5" . Its internal workings are gimbaled to
>provide accurate readings in up to 45 deg of pitch and roll.
I have not seen this unit but gimbaling, such as is used in boats, would not
seem to be any help in an airplane. This makes me wonder about the accuracy
in turns. Does anybody know?
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Fuselage Jig |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> RV-4 Fuselage jig available soon in Modesto, California.
> $100 or best offer.
>
> --
RV-4 jig available in Ailene TX. Just come and get it. Two RV's built from
this jig.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Attachment |
"Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" wrote:
>
> Hello RV listers, especially -8 builders,
>
>
> I'm at a decision point and looking for thoughts on using 6-32 or 8-32 bolts
> w/ locknuts to secure the plexi and WD819 frame.
Doug, I am not a -8 builder but I attached my canopy on the -4 that I built
with 6/32
screws and some acorn stop nuts that I found at Skybolt fastner in Florida. Looks
real nice,
and I know of at least three -4's that have been built this way.
These stop nuts have a red plastic insert that work just like a regular stop nut
except they
completely cover the hole, real neat.
Carroll Bird, Buffalo Gap TX RV-4 60 hours no canopy cracks yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: survival skills |
In regard to the survival training, wheree would it be taught?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Removal of broken bolt (long) |
I mis-read the torque for one of the bolts that hold the alternator bracket
to the boss on the engine case. I read the "inch-pounds" as "foot pounds."
Predictably I proceeded to break the head off the bolt. What did I think I
was doing? Can't say, it seems so foolish now.
The question of the day is how to use the "easy-out" to extract the bolt
shank from the engine case. I have done this sort of thing only twice in my
life, once after breaking off a spark plug in a cylinder head of my Dodge
slant six when I was a 16 year-old and once breaking off a brake bleeder on
a Datsun 240-Z.
Here's how I think I should use one of these bolt and screw extractors.
First, you pick the right size. Since this bolt is a 5/16 bolt, I will use
my 1/8 inch extractor because it is about half the diameter of the bolt.
Does this sound OK?
Next you center punch the bolt shank to keep the drill from wandering.
Next you select a drill bit that is about half the diameter of the bolt
shank. This bolt seems to be 5/16, so I will use a 1/8 drill. Does this
sound OK for the 1/8 easy out?
Then you drill into the bolt for about 2/3 of the length of the threads.
Then you get out a heat gun and blow hot air on the engine case until is
gets too warm to touch if you can get it that hot using just hot air. You
don't want to use a torch because that can cause your little annoying
problem to become much worse very quickly.
Then you insert the extractor into the hole in the bolt and use a wrench to
turn the extractor and the bolt counterclockwise.
This last part is the worst for me. Those darn easy out extractors are hard
and brittle. The last thing I want to do is break one of them off! You
experienced mechanics must have done this sort of thing more than once. Do
you have any tips for me? Besides not being to stupid to begin with, I
mean.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF in distress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
Chris Browne,
I fly T-34s at Texas Air Aces here in Houston am building an 8 and have
flown with quite a few freinds in their 6's.
Depending on your HP / prop combination you will probably get better
performance out of your RV than the T-34 provides. If the T-34 is
tweaked then the control forces will be similar although control
movement will be greater on the T-34. All in all it should be a good
transition except for having to put the wheels up and down. Do take
advantage of the aerobatic qualities of the T-34 to get some training
there if you have not done much of that. The RV will out-turn and
out-accelerate the T-34 but it's not too far off. Of course if you are
building an taildragger RV then the landings / T.O. won't be similar.
Can't wait top kick some 34 butt with my 8.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 fuselage questions |
John, Yes, this should be a straight line. Mine was straight in the center
but not straight at the lower corners (top corner in the jig.)When I drilled
the skin on, the rib (believe 608?) corner moved forward to get itself
inline with the skin. I drilled from the inside out so I just followed the
bulkhead when drilling. All is well, the -6 flys straight & true, and no
one has ever noticed that curved rivet line on that bulkhead.
I don't remember about the 604, so better check the plans.
Rick Caldwell
-6 29.9 hrs
Melbourne, FL
>With the bulkheads centered and heights measured shouldn't a straight line
March 05, 2000 - March 10, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ic