RV-Archive.digest.vol-id
March 10, 2000 - March 16, 2000
>exist from the center along the bottom of the Fuse. (top when in jig) of
>F-605 to F-612? I have a 1/8" or more gap at F-608. When I check the top of
>the Fuse. (bottom when in jig) I have a nice straight line.
>Question:
>Does F-604 sit on top of the main longerons when in the jig? I believe it
>does but want to check for sure.
>
>John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop |
I'm assuming this is the standard 25% down, rest @ shipment?
Rick Jory
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Date: Thursday, March 09, 2000 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> Does anyone know how long it
>> takes to get a prop and governor?
>
>Tom;
>
>I talked to Bill B at Van's last Friday and he is saying four months for an
>engine and prop. I ordered an O-360 and Hartzell prop two days ago.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
A reminder there is a website http://www.equipped.com/basic.htm that lists
various items that could comprise a basic survival kit for pilots. FWIW, I
drew blood for the first time on my 8A when a #30 went perfectly through an
aluminum skin and into the thumb on my left hand. I wasn't wearing my
hearing protector or safety glasses (I wasn't riveting or using my cut-off
wheel), but I don't think either one would have helped.
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of broken bolt (long) |
Stephen:
1.drill into the bolt
2.insert your ez-out
3.use wrench on ez-out to remove broken bolt
note: snap on sells an ez-out kit which you can put a
socket on and grips better than a twirl type ez-out. I
would get that set and use it. any questions contact
me
and I will help you answer them
Glenn
--- "Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> I mis-read the torque for one of the bolts that hold
> the alternator bracket
> to the boss on the engine case. I read the
> "inch-pounds" as "foot pounds."
> Predictably I proceeded to break the head off the
> bolt. What did I think I
> was doing? Can't say, it seems so foolish now.
>
> The question of the day is how to use the "easy-out"
> to extract the bolt
> shank from the engine case. I have done this sort
> of thing only twice in my
> life, once after breaking off a spark plug in a
> cylinder head of my Dodge
> slant six when I was a 16 year-old and once breaking
> off a brake bleeder on
> a Datsun 240-Z.
>
> Here's how I think I should use one of these bolt
> and screw extractors.
>
> First, you pick the right size. Since this bolt is
> a 5/16 bolt, I will use
> my 1/8 inch extractor because it is about half the
> diameter of the bolt.
> Does this sound OK?
>
> Next you center punch the bolt shank to keep the
> drill from wandering.
>
> Next you select a drill bit that is about half the
> diameter of the bolt
> shank. This bolt seems to be 5/16, so I will use a
> 1/8 drill. Does this
> sound OK for the 1/8 easy out?
>
> Then you drill into the bolt for about 2/3 of the
> length of the threads.
>
> Then you get out a heat gun and blow hot air on the
> engine case until is
> gets too warm to touch if you can get it that hot
> using just hot air. You
> don't want to use a torch because that can cause
> your little annoying
> problem to become much worse very quickly.
>
> Then you insert the extractor into the hole in the
> bolt and use a wrench to
> turn the extractor and the bolt counterclockwise.
>
> This last part is the worst for me. Those darn easy
> out extractors are hard
> and brittle. The last thing I want to do is break
> one of them off! You
> experienced mechanics must have done this sort of
> thing more than once. Do
> you have any tips for me? Besides not being to
> stupid to begin with, I
> mean.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A FWF in distress
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - Installation |
Phil Smith,
I put in the Andair selector valve on a homemade brace that was wider
but similar to the supplied one. The filter went on the floor just
below the selector. After the S turn the get the fuel from the selector
to the filter the fuel has a straight run all the way through the pump
(fwd of the gear tower) to the firewall. At the firewall I have a 45
deg. fitting to connect to the hoses. Used full flow fittings where I
could to reduce turbulence.
The purge return comes back through the firewall just above the outgoing
fuel via a #4 line and tee's into the right tank supply line that runs
along the floor in front of the main spar carrythrough. Control of the
purge on-off is via a push-pull cable with a locking button that is in
front of the throttle quadrant on the gear tower. I got the red knob to
keep it in sync with the mixture color coding. Push forward is engine
run, rearward is stop. It doesn't have to be extremely convenient since
you should use it only at start up and shutdown. In fact make it
somewhat awkward to use and away from other controls to keep from
accidentally pulling it out in flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removal of broken bolt (short) |
In your case of a broken-off bolt head in the aircraft engine crankcase--- If
the torque was sufficient enough to snap the head off a bolt that large I would
worry about the stress and dammage to the casting & casting flange of the crank
case. Also the "breakloose" torque is sometimes 1.5 to 2 times the static
torque-in the case of using the easy-outs. Would a drill undersize and a
"heli-coil" insert be less tramatic on the aluminim casting(s)??.....these
castings aren't the steel castings the car engines are......
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com on 03/10/2000 09:04:53 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Removal of broken bolt (long)
I mis-read the torque for one of the bolts that hold the alternator bracket
to the boss on the engine case. I read the "inch-pounds" as "foot pounds."
Predictably I proceeded to break the head off the bolt. What did I think I
was doing? Can't say, it seems so foolish now.
The question of the day is how to use the "easy-out" to extract the bolt
shank from the engine case. I have done this sort of thing only twice in my
life, once after breaking off a spark plug in a cylinder head of my Dodge
slant six when I was a 16 year-old and once breaking off a brake bleeder on
a Datsun 240-Z.
Here's how I think I should use one of these bolt and screw extractors.
First, you pick the right size. Since this bolt is a 5/16 bolt, I will use
my 1/8 inch extractor because it is about half the diameter of the bolt.
Does this sound OK?
Next you center punch the bolt shank to keep the drill from wandering.
Next you select a drill bit that is about half the diameter of the bolt
shank. This bolt seems to be 5/16, so I will use a 1/8 drill. Does this
sound OK for the 1/8 easy out?
Then you drill into the bolt for about 2/3 of the length of the threads.
Then you get out a heat gun and blow hot air on the engine case until is
gets too warm to touch if you can get it that hot using just hot air. You
don't want to use a torch because that can cause your little annoying
problem to become much worse very quickly.
Then you insert the extractor into the hole in the bolt and use a wrench to
turn the extractor and the bolt counterclockwise.
This last part is the worst for me. Those darn easy out extractors are hard
and brittle. The last thing I want to do is break one of them off! You
experienced mechanics must have done this sort of thing more than once. Do
you have any tips for me? Besides not being to stupid to begin with, I
mean.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF in distress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt |
Hey Glenn,
Thanks for the tip about Snap-On tools. I have seen a number of references
to Snap-On tools on the list over the years. As I recall, they sold only to
professional mechanics, usually from Snap-On vans that traveled around. Do
you know of a source for Snap-On tools for non-professionals for whom the
Snap-On dealer doesn't visit? Is there a Sears Craftsman equivalent?
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Stephen:
1.drill into the bolt
2.insert your ez-out
3.use wrench on ez-out to remove broken bolt
note: snap on sells an ez-out kit which you can put a
socket on and grips better than a twirl type ez-out. I
would get that set and use it. any questions contact
me
and I will help you answer them
Glenn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid GPS Light |
My light is easily readable even in direct sunlight. Sounds like a
manufacturing problem.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 5:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Navaid GPS Light
>
> On my Navaid it is virtually impossible to see the green or yellow GPS
> course/heading light unless the plane is in the hanger with the door
> closed. Even when I cup my hand over the LED in flight, I can't tell
> that it is lit.
>
> Anybody else have the same problem?
>
> Tim
>
>
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Four Freshly Overhauled O-320 Engines For Sale... |
"Jeffrey A. Hawkins" wrote:
>
> ...
>
> These engines are perfect for RV's! Don is currently building my
> 0-320 E2D for my RV-8 and has built an 0-320 E2D for my fathers RV-6
> which runs very nice. Don does excellent work.
>
> If interested please call:
>
> Don Swords A&P, IA
> Don's Dream Machines
> Griffin, Georgia
> Phone: 770-412-8885
>
Shameless plug. Don also built my motor and I am *very* pleased with it.
He does thorough work on overhauls, even bead blasting the case. He match
balanced the reciprocating parts. I spent the better part of a day with
him when he had my motor apart and I learned alot. Don is an excellent
source of motors for RVs, certified or experimental, and a nice guy to
boot. He is at the Griffin-Spalding County Airport (6A2), just south of
Atlanta, where Aircraft Spruce and Atlanta Air Salvage are located.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Removal of broken bolt (short) |
I'm the first to admit that I don't know the answer here. I'd like to
remove the broken bolt. The boss for the alternator bolts is pretty beefy.
It appears to be a solid lump on the side of the engine case. Motorcycle
mechanics use these easy-outs to remove broken studs from aluminum cases all
the time, but I don't know exactly how they do it or if they have a rule of
thumb about when to do it an when to insert a helicoil. On the Lycoming,
the bolt doesn't actually go into the engine case, it goes into this beefy,
built-up boss.
I know what you mean about the "breakloose" torque. That's what breaks
those damn easy-outs. That's why I hoped that heating the general area
would help lower the torque needed to get the broken stud moving.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----In your case of a broken-off bolt
head in the aircraft engine crankcase--- If
the torque was sufficient enough to snap the head off a bolt
that large I would
worry about the stress and damage to the casting & casting
flange of the crank
case. Also the "breakloose" torque is sometimes 1.5 to 2
times the static
torque-in the case of using the easy-outs. Would a drill
undersize and a
"heli-coil" insert be less traumatic on the aluminum
casting(s)??.....these
castings aren't the steel castings the car engines are......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt |
Steve you may look in the yellow pages and find the
dealership headquarters for snap on in your area and
see if they have a truck that comes by your area or if
they sell directly to the public. As for sears NO I
dont think Sears comes close
Glenn
--- "Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> Hey Glenn,
>
> Thanks for the tip about Snap-On tools. I have seen
> a number of references
> to Snap-On tools on the list over the years. As I
> recall, they sold only to
> professional mechanics, usually from Snap-On vans
> that traveled around. Do
> you know of a source for Snap-On tools for
> non-professionals for whom the
> Snap-On dealer doesn't visit? Is there a Sears
> Craftsman equivalent?
>
> Steve Soule
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Stephen:
> 1.drill into the bolt
> 2.insert your ez-out
> 3.use wrench on ez-out to remove
> broken bolt
> note: snap on sells an ez-out kit
> which you can put a
> socket on and grips better than a
> twirl type ez-out. I
> would get that set and use it. any
> questions contact
> me
> and I will help you answer them
>
> Glenn
>
>
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Silly question -- Rotating Tires |
NO! What you want is to get the inside of the tire to be one the outside to
spread the wear area. Just swapping form side to side doesn't do this.
(inside remains inside)
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 1:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: Silly question -- Rotating Tires
>
> Seems silly but I don't know for sure -- when rotating the tires I can
just
> swap the wheels, and not actually take the tires off, right? Please say
> yes...
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt |
Steve in a worst case scenario if you cant get the
bolt out drill to the size of the bolt and retap the
threads so you can use another bolt of the same size
in the boss
Glenn
--- glenn williams wrote:
>
>
> Steve you may look in the yellow pages and find the
> dealership headquarters for snap on in your area and
> see if they have a truck that comes by your area or
> if
> they sell directly to the public. As for sears NO I
> dont think Sears comes close
>
> Glenn
>
> --- "Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hey Glenn,
> >
> > Thanks for the tip about Snap-On tools. I have
> seen
> > a number of references
> > to Snap-On tools on the list over the years. As I
> > recall, they sold only to
> > professional mechanics, usually from Snap-On vans
> > that traveled around. Do
> > you know of a source for Snap-On tools for
> > non-professionals for whom the
> > Snap-On dealer doesn't visit? Is there a Sears
> > Craftsman equivalent?
> >
> > Steve Soule
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Stephen:
> > 1.drill into the bolt
> > 2.insert your ez-out
> > 3.use wrench on ez-out to remove
> > broken bolt
> > note: snap on sells an ez-out kit
> > which you can put a
> > socket on and grips better than a
> > twirl type ez-out. I
> > would get that set and use it. any
> > questions contact
> > me
> > and I will help you answer them
> >
> > Glenn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of broken bolt (moderate) |
> Hi Steve,
There are two main ways to break off a bolt, bottoming it out in the hole
before it clamps down on what you are trying to attach (bad), and over
tightening (slightly better). You may be lucky and find that the portion of the
bolt left in the hole is actually loose. A bolt that has been bottomed out in
a
hole will be in so tightly that the only way to remove it is to drill it all the
way through so that you drill the bottom off the bolt and hopefully remove some
of the clamping force that is holding the bolt in. Since you broke the head off
the rest of the bolt there should be no clamping force holding in what's left.
First, hose the broken bolt with WD-40 a couple of times and let it soak in,
over night at least. I wouldn't bother trying heat, that is most effective when
you have a really rusted mess you are trying to disassemble...
If you have good access to the bolt, you may be able to use a small center
punch to make a punch mark, say where the number 3 on a clock face would be (not
just 90 degrees, but out near the edge) and then using a small hammer, tap with
the punch in this hole, trying to move that number 3 into number 2's spot.
Unless the aluminum has been distorted by the force of over tightening the bolt,
with a little fussing the (now stud) should unscrew out. The advantage of this
method is that you run no danger of damaging the threads in the casting.
If this technique is not working then it is time for the easy out. Take a
lot of care and drill a pilot hole (small hole) "exactly" through the center of
the stud. (I have never been able to accomplish this with much success) Then
evaluate how much larger you can enlarge this hole without damaging the threads.
I would suggest that you use the largest easy out you can get into the drilled
stud with out damaging the threads in the casting. When using an easy out, you
need to select one that will go at least half its length into the stud, the more
the better, up to about 85%.... Drive it in tightly using a hammer and then
try removing the stud. Don't expect this to work, and plan to take the easy out
back out and to completely drill out the stud and put a helicoil in. You will
have a miserable problem if you break that hardened easy out inside the stud.
Helicoils are a fast and efficient way of repairing a damaged threaded hole,
don't worry if you have to go that route.
I have removed hundreds of broken bolts, screws and studs from all kinds of
equipment (no, I'm not really that clumsy, I do that kind of thing as a part of
my profession) and the success rate is really high. Take your time and it
should go well, if not, put a helicoil in and press on!
Good luck,
Dave Burton
RV-6 Seattle
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of broken bolt (long) |
I would warm the case after center punching and use a LEFT hand drill bit.
Many times after breaking off the bolt, the tension on the bolt is gone and
it will not take much torque to removes o while drilling the bolt will turn
out.
In fact if there is a little bit of the bolt protruding, you might try
slotting with a hacksaw blade and turning out with screw driver. Eze-outs
are always the last resort.
Might when warming, aply some light oil to let it creep down into the
threads.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 8:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Removal of broken bolt (long)
>
> I mis-read the torque for one of the bolts that hold the alternator
bracket
> to the boss on the engine case. I read the "inch-pounds" as "foot
pounds."
> Predictably I proceeded to break the head off the bolt. What did I think
I
> was doing? Can't say, it seems so foolish now.
>
> The question of the day is how to use the "easy-out" to extract the bolt
> shank from the engine case. I have done this sort of thing only twice in
my
> life, once after breaking off a spark plug in a cylinder head of my Dodge
> slant six when I was a 16 year-old and once breaking off a brake bleeder
on
> a Datsun 240-Z.
>
> Here's how I think I should use one of these bolt and screw extractors.
>
> First, you pick the right size. Since this bolt is a 5/16 bolt, I will
use
> my 1/8 inch extractor because it is about half the diameter of the bolt.
> Does this sound OK?
>
> Next you center punch the bolt shank to keep the drill from wandering.
>
> Next you select a drill bit that is about half the diameter of the bolt
> shank. This bolt seems to be 5/16, so I will use a 1/8 drill. Does this
> sound OK for the 1/8 easy out?
>
> Then you drill into the bolt for about 2/3 of the length of the threads.
>
> Then you get out a heat gun and blow hot air on the engine case until is
> gets too warm to touch if you can get it that hot using just hot air. You
> don't want to use a torch because that can cause your little annoying
> problem to become much worse very quickly.
>
> Then you insert the extractor into the hole in the bolt and use a wrench
to
> turn the extractor and the bolt counterclockwise.
>
> This last part is the worst for me. Those darn easy out extractors are
hard
> and brittle. The last thing I want to do is break one of them off! You
> experienced mechanics must have done this sort of thing more than once.
Do
> you have any tips for me? Besides not being to stupid to begin with, I
> mean.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A FWF in distress
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt |
> . As for sears NO I
> dont think Sears comes close
IMHO Sears would be just fine. Just be sure you buy their lifetime
guaranteed line of tools, they also carry cheap Chinese stuff which
they don't guarantee. In my area Snap-On has a store, but all of their
drivers will sell to anyone. Their stuff is OK. It is really
expensive, and depending on who got the contract to manufacture their
tools this year, the same company may be making Sears tools as
well...neither company manufacturers tools.
I'm a fan of buying cheap tools when they will do the job, and
expensive ones when it's necessary. As Glen was suggesting, you don't
want to buy cheap easy-outs.
Dave Burton
RV-6A
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of broken bolt (long) |
yes and mouse milk works best for penetration of the
bolt threads
Glenn
--- Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> I would warm the case after center punching and use
> a LEFT hand drill bit.
> Many times after breaking off the bolt, the tension
> on the bolt is gone and
> it will not take much torque to removes o while
> drilling the bolt will turn
> out.
>
> In fact if there is a little bit of the bolt
> protruding, you might try
> slotting with a hacksaw blade and turning out with
> screw driver. Eze-outs
> are always the last resort.
>
> Might when warming, aply some light oil to let it
> creep down into the
> threads.
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at
> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
> Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 8:04 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Removal of broken bolt (long)
>
>
>
> >
> > I mis-read the torque for one of the bolts that
> hold the alternator
> bracket
> > to the boss on the engine case. I read the
> "inch-pounds" as "foot
> pounds."
> > Predictably I proceeded to break the head off the
> bolt. What did I think
> I
> > was doing? Can't say, it seems so foolish now.
> >
> > The question of the day is how to use the
> "easy-out" to extract the bolt
> > shank from the engine case. I have done this sort
> of thing only twice in
> my
> > life, once after breaking off a spark plug in a
> cylinder head of my Dodge
> > slant six when I was a 16 year-old and once
> breaking off a brake bleeder
> on
> > a Datsun 240-Z.
> >
> > Here's how I think I should use one of these bolt
> and screw extractors.
> >
> > First, you pick the right size. Since this bolt
> is a 5/16 bolt, I will
> use
> > my 1/8 inch extractor because it is about half the
> diameter of the bolt.
> > Does this sound OK?
> >
> > Next you center punch the bolt shank to keep the
> drill from wandering.
> >
> > Next you select a drill bit that is about half the
> diameter of the bolt
> > shank. This bolt seems to be 5/16, so I will use
> a 1/8 drill. Does this
> > sound OK for the 1/8 easy out?
> >
> > Then you drill into the bolt for about 2/3 of the
> length of the threads.
> >
> > Then you get out a heat gun and blow hot air on
> the engine case until is
> > gets too warm to touch if you can get it that hot
> using just hot air. You
> > don't want to use a torch because that can cause
> your little annoying
> > problem to become much worse very quickly.
> >
> > Then you insert the extractor into the hole in the
> bolt and use a wrench
> to
> > turn the extractor and the bolt counterclockwise.
> >
> > This last part is the worst for me. Those darn
> easy out extractors are
> hard
> > and brittle. The last thing I want to do is break
> one of them off! You
> > experienced mechanics must have done this sort of
> thing more than once.
> Do
> > you have any tips for me? Besides not being to
> stupid to begin with, I
> > mean.
> >
> > Steve Soule
> > Huntington, Vermont
> > RV-6A FWF in distress
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removal of broken bolt (long) |
Or try slotting the studd with a dremmel mini-cutoff wheel so a screwdriver can
be tried.
cgalley(at)accessus.net on 03/10/2000 10:59:19 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Removal of broken bolt (long)
I would warm the case after center punching and use a LEFT hand drill bit.
Many times after breaking off the bolt, the tension on the bolt is gone and
it will not take much torque to removes o while drilling the bolt will turn
out.
In fact if there is a little bit of the bolt protruding, you might try
slotting with a hacksaw blade and turning out with screw driver. Eze-outs
are always the last resort.
Might when warming, aply some light oil to let it creep down into the
threads.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 8:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Removal of broken bolt (long)
>
> I mis-read the torque for one of the bolts that hold the alternator
bracket
> to the boss on the engine case. I read the "inch-pounds" as "foot
pounds."
> Predictably I proceeded to break the head off the bolt. What did I think
I
> was doing? Can't say, it seems so foolish now.
>
> The question of the day is how to use the "easy-out" to extract the bolt
> shank from the engine case. I have done this sort of thing only twice in
my
> life, once after breaking off a spark plug in a cylinder head of my Dodge
> slant six when I was a 16 year-old and once breaking off a brake bleeder
on
> a Datsun 240-Z.
>
> Here's how I think I should use one of these bolt and screw extractors.
>
> First, you pick the right size. Since this bolt is a 5/16 bolt, I will
use
> my 1/8 inch extractor because it is about half the diameter of the bolt.
> Does this sound OK?
>
> Next you center punch the bolt shank to keep the drill from wandering.
>
> Next you select a drill bit that is about half the diameter of the bolt
> shank. This bolt seems to be 5/16, so I will use a 1/8 drill. Does this
> sound OK for the 1/8 easy out?
>
> Then you drill into the bolt for about 2/3 of the length of the threads.
>
> Then you get out a heat gun and blow hot air on the engine case until is
> gets too warm to touch if you can get it that hot using just hot air. You
> don't want to use a torch because that can cause your little annoying
> problem to become much worse very quickly.
>
> Then you insert the extractor into the hole in the bolt and use a wrench
to
> turn the extractor and the bolt counterclockwise.
>
> This last part is the worst for me. Those darn easy out extractors are
hard
> and brittle. The last thing I want to do is break one of them off! You
> experienced mechanics must have done this sort of thing more than once.
Do
> you have any tips for me? Besides not being to stupid to begin with, I
> mean.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A FWF in distress
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I have stalked..er....followed a MAC & SNAP-ON truck untill it pulled in to a
garage or some sort of business. Usually only a mile or two. Thats how I get my
unique tools...and real nice girlie calanders too......
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com on 03/10/2000 10:18:52 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt
Hey Glenn,
Thanks for the tip about Snap-On tools. I have seen a number of references
to Snap-On tools on the list over the years. As I recall, they sold only to
professional mechanics, usually from Snap-On vans that traveled around. Do
you know of a source for Snap-On tools for non-professionals for whom the
Snap-On dealer doesn't visit? Is there a Sears Craftsman equivalent?
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
Stephen:
1.drill into the bolt
2.insert your ez-out
3.use wrench on ez-out to remove broken bolt
note: snap on sells an ez-out kit which you can put a
socket on and grips better than a twirl type ez-out. I
would get that set and use it. any questions contact
me
and I will help you answer them
Glenn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt |
Go to most any garage, FBO, etc. and ask when the Snap-On man visits each
week, then stop in at that time. They also have district sales offices that
you can phone. They can put you in touch with a Snap-On route man.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 9:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt
>
> Hey Glenn,
>
> Thanks for the tip about Snap-On tools. I have seen a number of
references
> to Snap-On tools on the list over the years. As I recall, they sold only
to
> professional mechanics, usually from Snap-On vans that traveled around.
Do
> you know of a source for Snap-On tools for non-professionals for whom the
> Snap-On dealer doesn't visit? Is there a Sears Craftsman equivalent?
>
> Steve Soule
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Stephen:
> 1.drill into the bolt
> 2.insert your ez-out
> 3.use wrench on ez-out to remove broken bolt
> note: snap on sells an ez-out kit which you can put a
> socket on and grips better than a twirl type ez-out. I
> would get that set and use it. any questions contact
> me
> and I will help you answer them
>
> Glenn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 fuselage questions |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
> With the bulkheads centered and heights measured shouldn't a
> straight line exist from the center along the bottom of the Fuse.
(top when in
> jig) of F-605 to F-612? I have a 1/8" or more gap at F-608. When I
check the
> top of the Fuse. (bottom when in jig) I have a nice straight line.
*********************
John:
Make sure your top center line is normal to the 601 to the 612. Always
check from the center out. I ran a line from the 601 to the 612 on top
(bottom of fuselage) also.
Then used a plumb line to check them. I think you may want to check your
defintion on what is the centerline of each BH.
> Question:
> Does F-604 sit on top of the main longerons when in the jig? I
> believe it does but want to check for sure.
>
> John Danielson
*******************
Yes. the 604 uses splice channels to attach & it sets in NON plumb. All
the others get to sit plumb. Watch where the sides of the BH's fit the
longerons or you will get to shim alot like me. The skins need a good fit
or shims.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid Tweaking - Sucess! (Long & perhaps boring!) |
Thanks to all who helped me resolve me inability to lock on and/or track a
GPS flight plan.
Today I got it all together and it works fine! Adjustment of the "span" or
gain was fairly touchy. I had already set the range pot on the servo for
equal deflection of the ailerons, getting roughly 50% of maximum movement
without the servo hitting its stops. In-flight tweaking of the span control
for reasonable operation in wing leveler worked well. I got on course and
stayed there for perhaps a few miles (I was going about 180MPH TAS) and got
the plane flying level and steady on course, then switched on the coupler to
"course," immediately got the normal flashing routine, then a steady green
light. The system followed a zig-zag course with reasonable degree turns.
Some waypoints were only "missed" by less than a tenth of a mile, some up to
one mile at most. I did notice more cross coupling into the pitch than I
like...I connected the servo rod to the bottom of the co-pilot's
stick....but the cross coupling was easily handled with the elevator trim
control. I may change that in the future and connect it to the bottom of
the pilot's stick if I feel it is too much. FWIW I have the servo located as
far forward as possible...the aileron push tube just barely misses touching
the servo arm's most forward part when the stick is moved full forward.
Added comments....my problems stemmed from inadvertently turning off the
NMEA 0183 data at one point and not noticing it....also the gain or "span"
control is touchy enough to effect turns that are way too wide...some
experimentation is needed...also take extra screwdriver...I dropped mine and
it was so rough that I was afraid to open my seat and shoulder belt to reach
for it....landed....got three screwdrivers and went up again only to find
turb so hard I couldn't get the screwdriver into the slot. Landed and waited
until today and did the deed.
Used the "nearest airport" feature to return to base at end of the zig zag
flight plan....that took me directly over the airport....noted that I was
paralleling the desired direct route home a bit to the left, and used the
trim control to slightly correct....after than it stayed dead on.
Final comments: "Technical support" from Navaid was FAR less than
expected...the person I talked to I asked (more or less) "Can this thing
(Navaid) follow a GPS flight plan with dog legs in it?" He turned to
someone else there and asked "Can this thing follow a dog leg?" I gave up
on that, and asked one more question, "Why can't I get the coupler light to
stop flashing?" He replied that "When I tried it it worked fine."
Miserable help.
Porcine Products, maker of the coupler, did respond to an e-mail request for
help, but couldn't offer much, but did try at least. Navaid never did
respond to an e-mail request for help.
Overall the problem centers on:
1. Be sure to turn on NMEA0183 data and select "2" sentences
2. Turn on RMB/RMC sentences.
3. Set the range for even deflection without hitting the servo stops.
4. Set the span or gain control to stop stick stick shaking, and expect
to readjust it in the air...it can be a bit higher there since aerodynamic
pressures help quell the overshoot.
5. Run the span up as high as you can in flight without undesirable
hunting while in wing leveler mode.
Thanks again for the help from 22 different folks on the rv list.
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 fuselage questions |
John: I had to shift both F-607 and F-609 forward almost 3/4 in. to
get a smooth line for the skins. This resulted later in having to buy a 4 x
4 sheet of 0.025 from Van's to make a new aft top skin because the one in the
kit turned out to be 3/4 in to short. I also made new bottom corners for
F-607 and F-608 in my probably ill advised attempt to get everything to line
up perfectly. Hmmmm! As someone has already said, you pays your money and
you take your chances.
Harry Crosby
-6 Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Williams <7ecapilot(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
I was previously endorsed for tailwheel A/C at another club, but the place
that I am renting from now didn't sign me off for solo until after about 10
hours of dual. All of my 85 some landings in that 10 hours, crosswind or
otherwise, were three pointers. Not a single wheel landing. I didn't
realize the value of that until yesterday.
I was out yesterday afternoon doing landings in a Citabria. I hadn't a
great many crosswind situations and yesterday at Reid-Hillview (rwys 31/13)
we had wind between 210 - 230 @ ~7-8kts. Great crosswind day. RHV normally
uses runway 31. Early calls for WX returned winds of 120@7, so rwy 13 was
in use. By the time I arrived the winds had changed and RHV had switched
directions to 31. I thought that this was a bit unusual. Basically, it set
us up for a left-quartering tailwind. I was a little tenative, but the wind
wasn't strong or gusty, so I went up for some pattern work. It was a great
workout. On one landing I decided to try a wheel landing and was setup
pretty well on final. Left wing slightly down, level in flare, speed OK.
When I touched down, I pressed the stick forward to "stick" the landing,
but I am not really sure why the airplane did what it did next. The
airplane started drifting right with the wind. I started walking on the
rudders to get it straightened out, but then the plane started to tip-toe.
Left wheel up, then the right. So now I am using rudder and aileron to keep
the airplane straight and to prevent a ground loop. I was still going fast
enough to keep the tail up, so, "enough" I said. I firewalled the throttle
and took off. The next two landings were 3 pointers. Just like all of the
next ones will be. All of my 3 pointers were slow enough to maintain good
directional control with the rudder and tailwheel steering, even if I had
to do the rudder dance. I think that I will try my next crosswind wheel
landings with an instructor in the back and won't do any more until I feel
more confident. Just goes to show ya. You don't stop flying until it's tied
down.
tw
52
>
>
>>I've always three pointed my RV-4. In any wind condition I use full flaps
>> not
>>to loose altitude but to quit flying when I get down to the runway ) and I
>>three
>>point land. If it's a stiff crosswind, I land on one main and the tail. I
>>hold it there
>>until the other main comes down.
>> I met an old man in St. Mary's Ohio that taught flying for years and
>>years at
>>Ohio State. I asked him what he thought about only three pointing my RV-4
>>and
>>not learning to be more proficient at wheel landings. He told me that he
>>taught in
>>Cessna 120's and 140's for years, and the reason why they taught wheel
>>landings back then was because when they landed in a crosswind, they didn't
>>have enough control over the airplane. He claimed that with an airplane like
>>the
>>RV-4 you had more than enough control and the idea of a safe landing was to
>>make the airplane quit flying as soon as you could. With a three point
>>landing you were going slower at touchdown and would be less likely to get
>>out of shape on rollout.
>> After 800 hrs. flying from coast to coast and in all kinds of weather,
>>I agree
>>with him.
>>Jim Nolan
>>N444JN
>>
>>Jim,
> What you are saying applies to me big time, as is pretty much the way I
>figure it. I land in private strips in the north of BC and never attempt a
>wheel landing as there is limited space, soft ground and a changing
>situation can be expected, so as you say the object is to land at the
>slowest speed.
>In my experiences with the different tail wheel aircraft I have flown, a
>wheel landing is reserved for the show where there is a concrete runway,
>lots of length and a final approch that requires somewhat less attention.
>WHoops! I'm sure this will get flack!
>But really, the piont is - when the landing really screws up, having that
>tail down and being at the slowest
>landing speed you may avoid a mishap.
>
>Ed Hobenshield - Eustace, your experiences would be gold on this topic!
>>
>
>
>Ed Hobenshield edhob(at)kermode.net
>Kitwanga, BC, Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Survival Kit |
It really only hurts when you have to deburr and dimple your thumb after
you drill it......Becki
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Landings |
That is strange. When I did my tailwheel sign off nearly every one of my
landings were wheel landings, and EVERY one of them was crosswind. The
instructor's viewpoint was, if you can wheel land every time, in any wind
condition....you can three point with your eyes closed and your favorite
girlfriend in your lap. Well, ok, maybe he didn't voice it exactly that
way.......or for those who know Bob Knapp in Z-hills Florida.....maybe he
did. :)
Bill
Shop is ready, tools are waiting....where is that damned emp kit? :)
>
> I was previously endorsed for tailwheel A/C at another club, but the place
> that I am renting from now didn't sign me off for solo until after about
10
> hours of dual. All of my 85 some landings in that 10 hours, crosswind or
> otherwise, were three pointers. Not a single wheel landing. I didn't
> realize the value of that until yesterday.
>
> I was out yesterday afternoon doing landings in a Citabria. I hadn't a
> great many crosswind situations and yesterday at Reid-Hillview (rwys
31/13)
> we had wind between 210 - 230 @ ~7-8kts. Great crosswind day. RHV normally
> uses runway 31. Early calls for WX returned winds of 120@7, so rwy 13 was
> in use. By the time I arrived the winds had changed and RHV had switched
> directions to 31. I thought that this was a bit unusual. Basically, it set
> us up for a left-quartering tailwind. I was a little tenative, but the
wind
> wasn't strong or gusty, so I went up for some pattern work. It was a great
> workout. On one landing I decided to try a wheel landing and was setup
> pretty well on final. Left wing slightly down, level in flare, speed OK.
> When I touched down, I pressed the stick forward to "stick" the landing,
> but I am not really sure why the airplane did what it did next. The
> airplane started drifting right with the wind. I started walking on the
> rudders to get it straightened out, but then the plane started to tip-toe.
> Left wheel up, then the right. So now I am using rudder and aileron to
keep
> the airplane straight and to prevent a ground loop. I was still going fast
> enough to keep the tail up, so, "enough" I said. I firewalled the throttle
> and took off. The next two landings were 3 pointers. Just like all of the
> next ones will be. All of my 3 pointers were slow enough to maintain good
> directional control with the rudder and tailwheel steering, even if I had
> to do the rudder dance. I think that I will try my next crosswind wheel
> landings with an instructor in the back and won't do any more until I feel
> more confident. Just goes to show ya. You don't stop flying until it's
tied
> down.
>
> tw
>
> 52
> >
> >
> >>I've always three pointed my RV-4. In any wind condition I use full
flaps
> >> not
> >>to loose altitude but to quit flying when I get down to the runway ) and
I
> >>three
> >>point land. If it's a stiff crosswind, I land on one main and the tail.
I
> >>hold it there
> >>until the other main comes down.
> >> I met an old man in St. Mary's Ohio that taught flying for years and
> >>years at
> >>Ohio State. I asked him what he thought about only three pointing my
RV-4
> >>and
> >>not learning to be more proficient at wheel landings. He told me that he
> >>taught in
> >>Cessna 120's and 140's for years, and the reason why they taught wheel
> >>landings back then was because when they landed in a crosswind, they
didn't
> >>have enough control over the airplane. He claimed that with an airplane
like
> >>the
> >>RV-4 you had more than enough control and the idea of a safe landing was
to
> >>make the airplane quit flying as soon as you could. With a three point
> >>landing you were going slower at touchdown and would be less likely to
get
> >>out of shape on rollout.
> >> After 800 hrs. flying from coast to coast and in all kinds of
weather,
> >>I agree
> >>with him.
> >>Jim Nolan
> >>N444JN
> >>
> >>Jim,
> > What you are saying applies to me big time, as is pretty much the way I
> >figure it. I land in private strips in the north of BC and never attempt
a
> >wheel landing as there is limited space, soft ground and a changing
> >situation can be expected, so as you say the object is to land at the
> >slowest speed.
> >In my experiences with the different tail wheel aircraft I have flown, a
> >wheel landing is reserved for the show where there is a concrete runway,
> >lots of length and a final approch that requires somewhat less attention.
> >WHoops! I'm sure this will get flack!
> >But really, the piont is - when the landing really screws up, having that
> >tail down and being at the slowest
> >landing speed you may avoid a mishap.
> >
> >Ed Hobenshield - Eustace, your experiences would be gold on this topic!
> >>
> >
> >
> >Ed Hobenshield edhob(at)kermode.net
> >Kitwanga, BC, Canada
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Chasnoff" <DChasnoff(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Removal of broken bolt (short) |
Steve,
The bolt broke because it was either stretched to far or it bottomed out in
the case. Either way it may not necessarily be seized in the case. The first
step I would try would be with a small center punch and a small hammer. I
would tap on the broken bolt at its outside diameter in the counter
clockwise direction. If the bolt will turn like this it will come out
easily. You must be very careful not to touch the case or you may damage the
exit path for the broken bolt. The concern for the not so easy out is that
they are not only brittle but tend to spread the bolt as they are inserted.
I try not to use them. Wire EDM would also be a good choice not to damage
the case any further. As for the case I would be leery of the treads ability
to hold after being stretched this much. If there is already a heli-coil in
the hole you will probably want a keen-sert or other oversized insert in its
place. I would look for a good machinist to help with this.
David
RV-4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 10:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Removal of broken bolt (short)
I'm the first to admit that I don't know the answer here. I'd like to
remove the broken bolt. The boss for the alternator bolts is pretty beefy.
It appears to be a solid lump on the side of the engine case. Motorcycle
mechanics use these easy-outs to remove broken studs from aluminum cases all
the time, but I don't know exactly how they do it or if they have a rule of
thumb about when to do it an when to insert a helicoil. On the Lycoming,
the bolt doesn't actually go into the engine case, it goes into this beefy,
built-up boss.
I know what you mean about the "breakloose" torque. That's what breaks
those damn easy-outs. That's why I hoped that heating the general area
would help lower the torque needed to get the broken stud moving.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----In your case of a broken-off bolt
head in the aircraft engine crankcase--- If
the torque was sufficient enough to snap the head off a bolt
that large I would
worry about the stress and damage to the casting & casting
flange of the crank
case. Also the "breakloose" torque is sometimes 1.5 to 2
times the static
torque-in the case of using the easy-outs. Would a drill
undersize and a
"heli-coil" insert be less traumatic on the aluminum
casting(s)??.....these
castings aren't the steel castings the car engines are......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Tweaking - Sucess! (Long & perhaps boring!) |
In a message dated 3/10/00 1:25:59 PM Central Standard Time,
JNice51355(at)aol.com writes:
<< I think that the folks at Navaid need to be informed about our perception
of
their lack of adequate support for their products. >>
Based upon my experience with them, I agree! Who among the various List, know
the Navaid people well enough to tactfully pass along our comments. I tried
about a year ago and did not receive a positive response.
Dale Ensing
Navaid servo mounted in the wing of 6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Removal of broken bolt (short) |
Hi David,
What you mean by "wire EDM?"
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
From: David The concern for the not so easy out is that
they are not only brittle but tend to spread the bolt as
they are inserted.
I try not to use them. Wire EDM would also be a good choice
not to damage
the case any further.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Need -8 Fusalage Jig in Colorado |
OK,
I was hoping my endless procrastination would pay off but I'm losing hope. I'm
priming and riveting my floor structure today and I'm going need a build the jig
soon. If I wanted to do wood working I would have built my own house or a Falco
or something :-)
Just thought I'd see if anyone nearby is getting close to pulling their -8 out
of the jig.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, Colorado
rv8er(at)concentric.net
puckett(at)ualfltctr.com
RV-8 80081 (see what I mean by procrastination)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Chasnoff" <DChasnoff(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Removal of broken bolt (short) |
Steven,
I'm no expert on this process but I have used it to remove broken studs from
CART champ car blocks and it worked very well with no damage to the block.
It involves sparking it out using a CNC controlled wire feeder. Check with a
good machine shop. They will probably have a source to have it done locally.
Someone also mentioned a left hand drill. Sometimes fasteners broken this
way will unscrew when drilled with a LH drill. If this doesn't work then I'd
go for the EDM. More damage can easily be done on these soft cases with an
easy out tool. The main thing is to proceed cautiously so as not to do any
further damage to the engine case. Good Luck. Feel free to contact me if you
need any further advice.
David
RV-4
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephen J. Soule
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 4:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Removal of broken bolt (short)
Hi David,
What you mean by "wire EDM?"
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
From: David The concern for the not so easy out is that
they are not only brittle but tend to spread the bolt as they are inserted.
I try not to use them. Wire EDM would also be a good choice
not to damage
the case any further.
Contributions of List members.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote Sensing Compass (was Compass For RV6-A) long |
>
> I have not seen this unit but gimbaling, such as is used in boats, would
not
> seem to be any help in an airplane. This makes me wonder about the
accuracy
> in turns. Does anybody know?
>
Larry, you are right. Now that I think about it, in a coordinated turn the
gimbals would not sense the bank angle. They would sense the pitch angle
for what that is worth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Hello Listers;
After 385 hours, my Val com radio began dropping out when it got warm.
After determining it was in the radio and not my power system, I called
and sent it to Val Avionics. Three days later, they called and said it
was done and told me it was a heat sensitive solid state relay that had
gone bad. They were putting it in the mail right away.
Great service at a great price. I would recommend this companies
equipment anytime.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | GPS/PDA and Navaid AP-1 wGPS coupler |
To the Lister computer gurus and all you other knowledgeable persons.....
I am planning to use a Windows CE PDA, probably the Compaq Aero 2150 with
Control Vision color moving map software and also the Navaid AP-1 auto pilot
with the GPS Smart Coupler II hooked to my Garmin GPS. Does anybody know if
there is a problem driving both the PDA and the Navaid unit at the same time
with the Garmin GPS?
Dale Ensing
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | taildragger landings |
If anyone would like to read an unusual article about wheels landings
from a rather surprising source, try:
http://www.skywagon.org/content/kbase/columns/wheellandings.htm
Boyd
RV Super6
Flying--next month with oxygen for altitude try
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
I had similar experience with Val. They not only fixed the problem, they
looked over the entire board and found a capacitor that was about to go bad
and also replaced it. The only thing I didn't realize was that they sent
mind by Pony Express. I think it took 2 weeks.
Anh
N985VU
-6
Maryland
>
>Hello Listers;
>After 385 hours, my Val com radio began dropping out when it got warm.
>After determining it was in the radio and not my power system, I called
>and sent it to Val Avionics. Three days later, they called and said it
>was done and told me it was a heat sensitive solid state relay that had
>gone bad. They were putting it in the mail right away.
>Great service at a great price. I would recommend this companies
>equipment anytime.
>John Kitz
>N721JK
>Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS/PDA and Navaid AP-1 wGPS coupler |
I don't know about your Garmin but my Lowarance back side has outputs and
inputs for RS232 data which should work with the computer.
Salida CO RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Remote Sensing Compass (was Compass For RV6-A) long |
The West Marine web site also listed a 'repeater' as a $100 accesory for the
Ritchie compass. What is it? Is it required?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
> Larry Pardue wrote:
> >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> > >My experience with remote sensing compass is limited to only
> three flights,
> > >so far. I am very pleased with the way it operates and its
> accuracy( less
> > >than 5 deg error). Although the compass is digital, the
> display is a DG
> > >type instrument connected by 20' of cable to a sensing unit.
> The display
> > is
> > >very steady like a DG, even in moderate turbulence. The
> sensing unit is
> > >approx 3"wide x 4" long x 2.5" . Its internal workings are
> gimbaled to
> > >provide accurate readings in up to 45 deg of pitch and roll.
> >
> > I have not seen this unit but gimbaling, such as is used in
> boats, would not
> > seem to be any help in an airplane. This makes me wonder about
> the accuracy
> > in turns. Does anybody know?
> >
> > Larry Pardue
> > Carlsbad, NM
> >
> The web page for the Ritchie compass line, including the electronic
> display and remote sensor, states that these compasses are designed for
> marine use. The digital remote sensor puts out NMEA0813 data
> to...navigation computers, chart plotters, GPS and Loran. They make no
> mention of any type of dip correction/compensation.
>
> I would wonder how much stress the gimbaled unit would undergo in flight
> maneuvers as it bangs around from stop to stop in its cage.
>
> Boyd
> RV Super6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Garrett" <garrett(at)thesocket.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder, V bock jig |
Just got back from the archive and had a question.
At what location on the rudder does the jig make contact. More specifically,
how close is the jig to the ribs that I'll be riveting. (1" , 2"...)? I
want to make sure I have enough room to work the rivet gun. I know Dwg 8pp
shows the dimensions for the jig but it seems to put one of the V blocks
right over the bottom rib, leaving no room to work.
I also had a difficult time hand sawing the fininshing cuts on the blocks
and I'm concerned about how critical this area of the block is.
Thanks
Matt Garrett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
| Subject: | [Fwd: taildragger landings] |
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 19:31:41 -0500
From: bcbraem(at)home.com
Subject: taildragger landings
If anyone would like to read an unusual article about wheels landings
from a rather surprising source, try:
http://www.skywagon.org/content/kbase/columns/wheellandings.htm
Boyd
RV Super6
Flying--next month with oxygen for altitude try
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Tweaking - Sucess! (Long & perhaps boring!) |
I have been "tweaking" my Navaid this week and can share a story here on
the RV-email list that hopefully may save somebody some aggravation.
Navaid has, as best I can determine, a fine reputation in the field for
providing a good unit at a reasonable price. Apparently many hundreds of
the units have been sold, so the company must be doing something right.
From the first day, my Navaid has done a credible job in wing leveler
mode but until a couple of days ago I had been unable to get it to track
in conjunction with a Lowrance 100. I tried every combination of GPS
settings, gain adjustments, and general tinkering I could find.
Still.........no tracking.
Last week, Bob Butler, of "Westward Ho" fame, completed the Navaid
installation in his RV-6A. This is the plane with the servo located on
the tip wing rib. A short test flight leads us to believe the wing tip
installation is a winner, but further testing will continue. What got my
attention was Bob's comment about the two jumpers on the back of the
control head connector.
"Huh? WHAT two jumpers?" I wailed.
"These two jumpers, right here on the wiring diagram. Sez you add the
jumpers if you are only using a handheld GPS......dummy...."
Since I had no recollection of any jumpers in my installation, I ran
back to the hangar, jerked out the wiring diagram (Navaid faxed it to me
six months after I received the control head and when I couldn't figure
out how the Smart Coupler worked since the diagram they sent me didn't
even mention the Smart Coupler! "Yeah...you SHOULD have received this
diagram with the control head.....") and noticed that there are NO
jumpers indicated on the diagram I received!
Yesterday I called Navaid to see if Bob and my Navaids were identical.
"Yes, they are, and oh yeah, you HAVE to have the jumpers if you don't
use the switch for two nav radios. I decided a while ago I better put
the jumpers on the diagram...........wish you had called earlier...."
Wish I had called earlier?????!!!!! Why should I call? I had the thing
wired according to their diagram!!
In short, after quickly adding the jumpers (another advantage of the
tip-up canopy :-) ) the Navaid locked on to the GPS like stink on a
skunk. I can make 90 degree waypoint changes and the unit swings 399SB
smoothly around to the new course. Neat!
Now, how do I feel about Navaid's service? I think they are building a
good unit (even though a peek inside the unit will reveal a bunch of low
cost generic components, but the engineering is pretty clever) that
works as advertised. I have no doubt about the integrity of the company
and the individuals therein.
However, I have a feeling that "Marketing" just isn't Navaid's strong
suit. Even though the folks I have talked to on a couple of occasions
were helpful, it was obvious they are more into building Navaids than
promoting Navaids. This carries over into putting somebody on the phone
that has good intentions but not great communications skills, and the
somewhat tortured prose of the slightly outdated manual. Matter of fact,
shortly after "The RV Journal" got to really rolling, I inquired as to
whether or not Navaid would be interested in some cost effective
internet exposure, and the individual with whom I spoke indicated that
the internet just wasn't a useful marketing tool! Thankfully, they have
recently seen the light in that regard.
So......if you are a new builder, and have had your confidence in Navaid
shaken by some of the posts here on the RV-List lately, let me assure
you that from my perspective, they produce a good unit, are honest
people, and are a little clunky when it comes to slick product support.
I am forwarding this post to Naviad because I believe in their product
and want to see their company continue to flourish in our custom plane
community. I believe if you have questions regarding the Navaid unit,
persistent, and I repeat, persistent communication will resolve most
issues.
Sam Buchanan (satisfied Navaid customer, RV-6, 115 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-------------------------
JNice51355(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 03/10/2000 12:34:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> DWENSING(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << Who among the various List, know
> the Navaid people well enough to tactfully pass along our comments. I tried
> about a year ago and did not receive a positive response. >>
> The above was Dale Ensing's comment on this. Maybe there is someone out
> there with the required knowledge and business savvy to form a start-up
> company that competes directly with Navaid. Seems to me that they are all by
> themselves in the
> uncertified single-axis market. Although I have not dealt with them yet, I'm
> not so sure that TACT is what is needed here.
> Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "et" <et(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | More questions on the Deft Primer |
Hi Scott and All,
Thanks for the info on the primers. I am about to primer my RV-8 tailkit,
and after reading the archives am more
confused than ever! ha
Here are a few questions...
1) Where do you purchase your Deft primer?
2) Can you use it on the outside skins also as an undercoat for you exterior
paint?
3) What color is it? What are you going to use in the cockpit? Primer only
or
primer and another topcoat?
Thanks in advance for any info.
Eric Tauch
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Kuebler <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 10:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Observations on priming (long)
>
> I have just completed priming my wing kit and would like to share my
experiences with my type of primer, spraying method, weight penalty and
general observations.
>
snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder, V bock jig |
In a message dated 3/10/00 9:47:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
garrett(at)thesocket.com writes:
<< At what location on the rudder does the jig make contact. More
specifically,
how close is the jig to the ribs that I'll be riveting. (1" , 2"...)? I
want to make sure I have enough room to work the rivet gun. I know Dwg 8pp
shows the dimensions for the jig but it seems to put one of the V blocks
right over the bottom rib, leaving no room to work.
I also had a difficult time hand sawing the fininshing cuts on the blocks
and I'm concerned about how critical this area of the block is.
Thanks
Matt Garrett >>
Matt,
Use the dimensions on the drawing for the relative placement of the v-blocks.
If anything is blocked, drill everything else first, cleco it all together,
then slide the rudder in the jig so the blocked holes are workable. Do the
same thing when it is time to rivet. The control surfaces are a great place
to use a squeezer (at least on the ribs) if you have access to one.
Regarding the cuts, the angle and alignment are important. Make sure you get
these right or you may end up with a warped surface. The "finish" on the jig
isn't that important. If your jig's finish is rough, apply a layer of duct
tape or similar to the jig to protect the skins.
Good luck,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt |
Subject: RE: RV-List: Snap-On tools, was Removal of broken bolt
>Thanks for the tip about Snap-On tools. I have seen a number of references
>to Snap-On tools on the list over the years. As I recall, they sold only
to
>professional mechanics, usually from Snap-On vans that traveled around. Do
>you know of a source for Snap-On tools for non-professionals for whom the
>Snap-On dealer doesn't visit? Is there a Sears Craftsman equivalent?
>
>Steve Soule
>
Steve - Snap-On- Tools will sell to any one with an interest in tools. They
do not have a chain of stores anywhere but do all their sales from the
trucks. Ask your local mechanic when the next trip by his shop is and plan
to meet the dealer at that time. If that isn't convienient then get the
dealers phone number and call him at home. Most dealers are very
accomodating. IMHO I feel that Snap-On-Tools make the best extractors, bar
none. I base this opinion on the last 30 years working on vehicles. There
are many styles of extractors but the best are the ones with the hex head
and a tight spiral. There is also a type that is a splined shaft that drives
into a special sized hole and then a hex nut slips over the spline so you
can turn out the stud. All the parts to the extractor come in a kit. You may
find that the remaining threads in the case are fairly loose. A lot of times
when a bolt is over torqued the head gets twisted off and when that happens
the tension is released on the remainder of the threads. Lots of times I
have even removed the broken stud by twisting it out with my thumb pressing
down on the broken stud. If all else fails you can carefully drill out the
entire stud and oversize the hole to fit a Heli-coil thread. This repair is
considered as strong as the original or even slightly stronger.
Hope this helps you get back on track.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank A. Reed" <fareed(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Kitfox Model IV Speedster for sale. |
Fellow Listers, If you know of anyone who would be interested in an
exceptional Kitfox Model IV Speedster please ask them to check the
following Web site: http://tappix.com/488923.
Many thanks.
Frank A. Reed
RV-6A N89PC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote Sensing Compass (was Compass For RV6-A) long |
>
> The West Marine web site also listed a 'repeater' as a $100 accesory for
the
> Ritchie compass. What is it? Is it required?
I think it is an additional display unit, so you could have one in the
cockpit and one below decks at the nav station or wherever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of broken bolt (long) |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
snip
> Here's how I think I should use one of these bolt and screw extractors.
>
> First, you pick the right size. Since this bolt is a 5/16 bolt, I will use
> my 1/8 inch extractor because it is about half the diameter of the bolt.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A FWF in distress
Steve,
Something that I haven't seen covered in answers to your post is
'picking the right size.'
It's been a while, but I could swear that the better ez outs tell you
what size hole to drill for a given bolt size, & which one to use. If I
can find my set, I'll look & repost. The last time I had to use one, the
recommended size looked way too big, but I followed the directions & it
worked well. If you think about it, it SHOULD be a lot harder to break
an ez out than the bolt. When I've broken one off, it was because I used
one that was too small for the bolt.
Patience is definitely a virtue here (spoken by someone who often lacks
it)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote Sensing Compass (was Compass For RV6-A) long |
> The West Marine web site also listed a 'repeater' as a $100 accesory for
the
> Ritchie compass. What is it? Is it required?
>
> Larry Bowen
Larry,
From my sailing days, I think I a repeater compass is just a second display,
like one you would put down in the cabin of a sailboat so you could monitor
the heading while you were down below. Before electronics came along, it
would be a little whiskey compass called a telltale.
Terry Watson
RV-8A #80729
My tanks are sealed!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 fuselage questions |
In a message dated 3/9/00 8:03:20 PM Pacific Standard Time,
JDaniel343(at)aol.com writes:
<< With the bulkheads centered and heights measured shouldn't a straight line
exist from the center along the bottom of the Fuse. (top when in jig) of
F-605 to F-612? I have a 1/8" or more gap at F-608. When I check the top of
the Fuse. (bottom when in jig) I have a nice straight line.
John,
I worried a lot about that too. I ended up cutting one of my bulkheads
down and patching it back together to get everything aligned. Then when I
drilled the fuselage skin on, it is evident that that amount of misalignment
is easilly resolved by simply moving or even just slightly tilting the
misaligned bulkhead a little to bring it in line. Since nothing is
prepunched on the 6 fuselage making that slight adjustment is of no
consequence.
Question:
Does F-604 sit on top of the main longerons when in the jig? I believe it
does but want to check for sure. >>
That is my recollection, but I don't have the plans in front of me and it's
been a while since I was there.
Regards,
Dale Wotring
RV6A Building inst. panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Flap trailing edge |
OK folks, help me out here...
I assume that the flap trailing edges are not bent to final angle so
they can be packaged with other components more easily. Dry-fitting
shows the edge must be bent to about half the angle they are delivered.
On the first skin I tried using the brake a made for my other control
sufaces which was only 4' wide 2x6's by working the skin end to end-
this .025 stuff is MUCH tougher than the other skins!) and proceeded to
get a pretty uneven bend which left some unsightly waves in the top of
the skin.
On the second flap, I made an "industrial strength" brake by welding
huge piano hinge along the edges of two pieces of 4" channel iron with
two 14" handles on it and could STILL barely bend it. No matter how I
pushed, the ends still bent more than the center. Even tried a monster
C-clamp in the middle which helped some.
Care to divulge any secrets here? It's too late for me, but those yet
to come may benefit from y'alls experience... I wish the manual would
provide some guidence here!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Circuit Breakers |
Does anyone know of a source for used circuit breakers?
Thanks
John Danielson
RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breakers |
JDaniel343(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of a source for used circuit breakers?
>
> Thanks
> John Danielson
> RV-6 Fuselage
>
a/c salvage yards. The 1st that comes to mind is in Mena AR. Search Web
Yellow Pages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge |
In a message dated 3/11/00 3:51:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
<< OK folks, help me out here...
I assume that the flap trailing edges are not bent to final angle so
they can be packaged with other components more easily. Dry-fitting
shows the edge must be bent to about half the angle they are delivered.
On the first skin I tried using the brake a made for my other control
sufaces which was only 4' wide 2x6's by working the skin end to end-
this .025 stuff is MUCH tougher than the other skins!) and proceeded to
get a pretty uneven bend which left some unsightly waves in the top of
the skin.
On the second flap, I made an "industrial strength" brake by welding
huge piano hinge along the edges of two pieces of 4" channel iron with
two 14" handles on it and could STILL barely bend it. No matter how I
pushed, the ends still bent more than the center. Even tried a monster
C-clamp in the middle which helped some.
Care to divulge any secrets here? It's too late for me, but those yet
to come may benefit from y'alls experience... I wish the manual would
provide some guidence here!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark >>
In my experience, the absolute WORST part of building the plane is any time I
have to bend something. I used the brake as described in the plans, and
eventually (after a lotta work) got the control surface trailing edges done
acceptably. The 2"x 6" wood brake has a lot of spring in it, which makes
getting an even bend tough. Used carefully, hand seamers can be used to
finish your trailing edge bends.
If I had it to do over, I'd pack all the drilled skins in the car and take
'em to the local FBO, which is homebuilder friendly, and will let you use
their equipment. Other places which work with sheet metal (such as HVAC
contractors) might be worth a shot if you don't have a helpful FBO.
Wait until you bend the main fuse longerons and the fuel tank attachment
angles. The longerons required me to darned near jump up and down on 'em
(not a technique to use if you need precision), and the fuel tank attachment
angles finally submitted to a big hammer...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Questions, questions |
Guys, any input you have on the following questions will be appreciated:
1. I'm using a power supply for each wingtip strobe - where and how did
you mount
yours?
2. How did you run the wiring from your push to talk switch to allow
for stick move-
ment without breaking the wires?
3. I'm thinking of painting my 8A prior to first flight - pros and cons
from those who
have done this?
4. In a recent Sportair Electrical seminar the need for ground straps
between
control surfaces & wing/stabalizers to dissipate static
electricity was mentioned.
Anyone doing this on RV'S?
Thanks, Walt Shipley RV8A QB N314TS (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: taildragger landings] |
Listers,
I have listened to this discussion. My .02 follows.
First my bias. I learned to fly tailwheel in a DC-3. Tailwheel landings,
while possible, are neither practical nor practiced in DC-3s. ( someone
will say, " Did them all the time." That is fine, but I have 3 different
DC-3 airline procedures manual and 3 points are prohibited in all 3.)
From the DC-3 I graduated to the Beech 18. I have 3 pointed the Beech. It
is doable, but also widely believed to be bad policy by most Beech
operators. These airplane have operational constraints that dictate using
Wheel Landings. An RV is not so constrained.
From these freighers I was able to fly more airplanes and when I checked
out in the T-6 my instructor sensed that I was #1 able to make wheel
landings. #2 scared to death of 3 poinnts. Guess what? He made me 3 point
the T-6 in every configuration. X-wind and all. I like wheel landings. 90
plus percent of my landings in the RV are wheel landings. But...........
Any competent RV pilot should be able to make both 3 points and wheel
landings. If you are unable to do both, you need some training. You
should be able to fly your airplane precisely enough to routinely do wheel
landings. You should be able to fly down the runway on one wheel in a huge
crosswind and decide whether or not to land or go around.
You should also know your airplane well enough to know when it will stall
and routinely practice "spot landings" 3 point with the power off, so when
the engine quits, you can get it into the shortest available space, hit
something soft and live to fly again. There is a time and a place for both.
Being able to do both will expand the envelope which you can operate your
airplane. Which ever one you choose to use normally is your business.
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
www.petroblend.com/dougr
dougr(at)petroblend.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank A. Reed" <fareed(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 09:38:57 -0500 |
Fellow Listers, If you know of anyone who would be interested in an
exceptional Kitfox Model IV Speedster please ask them to check the
following Web site: http://tappix.com/488923.
Many thanks.
Frank A. Reed
RV-6A N89PC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removal of broken bolt (long) |
Steve
The makers of Heli-Coil now have reversable drill bits with a built in
easyout and a hex for a wrench. I have not used one, but they look to be
well made and are affordable. They can be purchased from auto parts
stores which supply to repair shops and auto repair equipment suppliers.
When removing broken bolts I rarely use easy outs. If a notch for
screwdriver or a reversible drill bit do not work I find that a easy out
usually will not be of any help.
If the bolt is right at the surface a screw driver notch can be cut with
a dremil tool or hacksaw. If under the surface I would go right to the
reversable drill bit. First drill a small hole centered on the bolt. If
you are centered now it will pay off if completely drilling out the bolt
and retapping or a heli-coil is neccessary. If the small bit does not
pull out the broken piece go to the next size reversible bit and try
again with a little pressure on the drill. This will tend to dig the bit
into the hole you drilled and give a good bite to pull out the piece. If
this does not work a easyout will normally not work. The next step would
be to drill out the broken piece and retap the hole. If the threads are
not servicabe the hole would have to be drilled out and a helicoil
insert installed.
George Meketa
ASE Master Auto Mechanic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breakers |
B&B Aircraft..I bought my surplus Klixon breakers for $5-$7 a piece..they
are not used, just military surplus..these breakers cost $20 each new..their
number is in the yeller pages...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 11:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Circuit Breakers
>
> Does anyone know of a source for used circuit breakers?
>
> Thanks
> John Danielson
> RV-6 Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Questions, questions |
In a message dated 3/11/00 6:23:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
wshipley(at)esper.com writes:
<< 1. I'm using a power supply for each wingtip strobe - where and how did
you mount yours?>>
On the outboard rib with a doubler and some nutplates.
<< 2. How did you run the wiring from your push to talk switch to allow
for stick movement without breaking the wires?>>
The wires come out thru a rubber grommet near the pivot point so there is
limited movement. They are dressed in a stress decoupling loop and go to a
connector.
<< 3. I'm thinking of painting my 8A prior to first flight - pros and cons
from those who have done this?>>
If you built the plane straight then there is no reason IMO not to paint it
prior to final assy.
<< 4. In a recent Sportair Electrical seminar the need for ground straps
between control surfaces & wing/stabalizers to dissipate static electricity
was mentioned. Anyone doing this on RV'S? >>
Yes, but not for the reason you mentioned. The straps I have across my
control surfaces are lugged thin stainless steel cables that would allow
lightning strikes to not weld across the hinges. Tribocharging is more of an
issue in composite aircraft as it can affect your electronic toys'
performance.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More questions on the Deft Primer |
1) The only place I could find that would sell to me direct was Stoddard-Hamilton.
The have a corrosion proofing option for the aluminum parts on their planes.
http://www.stoddard-hamilton.com/Glastar/gsoptions.htm#Corrosion Protection Options
2) All of the priming I have done has been interior. I didn't look into compatible
exterior systems, I will find matching products when that time comes (whether
it be Deft or not)
3) The color I used was green like Zinc Chromate, but you can buy it in other
colors. I haven't thought about cockpit priming/paint yet, I'll cross that bridge
when it comes.
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
RV-6a (wings)
>>> "et" 03/10 10:54 PM >>>
Hi Scott and All,
Thanks for the info on the primers. I am about to primer my RV-8 tailkit,
and after reading the archives am more
confused than ever! ha
Here are a few questions...
1) Where do you purchase your Deft primer?
2) Can you use it on the outside skins also as an undercoat for you exterior
paint?
3) What color is it? What are you going to use in the cockpit? Primer only
or
primer and another topcoat?
Thanks in advance for any info.
Eric Tauch
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge |
Hi Mark,
Maybe I missed something, but I didn't bend the trailing edges of my flaps at
all. They aligned perfectly without doing so, and neither the manual nor the
Orndorff tapes make any mention of doing this to the flaps. All other
control surfaces, yes, but not the flaps.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
In a message dated 3/11/2000 3:48:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
> OK folks, help me out here...
>
> I assume that the flap trailing edges are not bent to final angle so
> they can be packaged with other components more easily. Dry-fitting
> shows the edge must be bent to about half the angle they are delivered.
> On the first skin I tried using the brake a made for my other control
> sufaces which was only 4' wide 2x6's by working the skin end to end-
> this .025 stuff is MUCH tougher than the other skins!) and proceeded to
> get a pretty uneven bend which left some unsightly waves in the top of
> the skin.
>
> On the second flap, I made an "industrial strength" brake by welding
> huge piano hinge along the edges of two pieces of 4" channel iron with
> two 14" handles on it and could STILL barely bend it. No matter how I
> pushed, the ends still bent more than the center. Even tried a monster
> C-clamp in the middle which helped some.
>
> Care to divulge any secrets here? It's too late for me, but those yet
> to come may benefit from y'alls experience... I wish the manual would
> provide some guidence here!
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge |
Mark the manual tells you to install the components
inside the flap and then rivet the them together. No
bending is required. I think this keeps them from oil
canning during deployment. hope you didnt mess up your
flap skin
Glenn
--- Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Mark,
>
> Maybe I missed something, but I didn't bend the
> trailing edges of my flaps at
> all. They aligned perfectly without doing so, and
> neither the manual nor the
> Orndorff tapes make any mention of doing this to the
> flaps. All other
> control surfaces, yes, but not the flaps.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
>
> In a message dated 3/11/2000 3:48:35 AM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> ripsteel(at)edge.net writes:
>
> > OK folks, help me out here...
> >
> > I assume that the flap trailing edges are not
> bent to final angle so
> > they can be packaged with other components more
> easily. Dry-fitting
> > shows the edge must be bent to about half the
> angle they are delivered.
> > On the first skin I tried using the brake a made
> for my other control
> > sufaces which was only 4' wide 2x6's by working
> the skin end to end-
> > this .025 stuff is MUCH tougher than the other
> skins!) and proceeded to
> > get a pretty uneven bend which left some
> unsightly waves in the top of
> > the skin.
> >
> > On the second flap, I made an "industrial
> strength" brake by welding
> > huge piano hinge along the edges of two pieces of
> 4" channel iron with
> > two 14" handles on it and could STILL barely bend
> it. No matter how I
> > pushed, the ends still bent more than the center.
> Even tried a monster
> > C-clamp in the middle which helped some.
> >
> > Care to divulge any secrets here? It's too late
> for me, but those yet
> > to come may benefit from y'alls experience... I
> wish the manual would
> > provide some guidence here!
> >
> > From the PossumWorks in TN
> > Mark
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions, questions |
Walt:
On my -8, I mounted the power supplies (Aeroflash) on the spar itself with
four bolts & nuts (approved by Van's when I asked). Part of the reason I did
this was to accommodate the wingtip VOR antenna & the Rocket sheared tips
with landing lights, nav and strobe lights inside the wingtips. Since my
wingtip is removable & there are large lightening holes in the end ribs,
servicing shouldn't be a problem.
As far as electrical systems go, I'd recommend Bob Nuckolls book & seminars
over any of the others I've seen.
check out http://www.aeroelectric.com/index.html if you haven't seen his
stuff.
Phil, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | Flaps & Aileron Attachments |
Hi all,
Does anyone have an online photo (or 2) of a correctly mounted set of
aileron brackets? (on wing rear-spar?) possibly with the aileron
swinging free attached?
I never realized how many placement considerations have to be made AHEAD
of time when doing this crucial alignment setup, and I rivetted the main
(inboard) aileron bracket on the rear spar before the aileron was
assembled.. uuugh! Used the 56.5" plans measurement, but just now found
out that it should be "fudge factored" on while actually lining up the
aileron.
Scary thing is that it appears to be dead-nuts perfect (by accident!).
Even the flap slipped in, perfect alignment, with 1/4" space, perfect!~
This stuff just don't happen for me, and I'm sure that SOMETHING has to
be wrong. A photo would be very helpful and appreciated..
Thanks much,
RJ in CT~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions, questions |
Thanks Phil. Appreciate the input. Yes, I am aware of Bob Nuckolls, I have
his book on order.
Thanks again! Walt
----------
> From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Questions, questions
> Date: Saturday, March 11, 2000 2:09 PM
>
>
> Walt:
>
> On my -8, I mounted the power supplies (Aeroflash) on the spar itself
with
> four bolts & nuts (approved by Van's when I asked). Part of the reason I
did
> this was to accommodate the wingtip VOR antenna & the Rocket sheared tips
> with landing lights, nav and strobe lights inside the wingtips. Since my
> wingtip is removable & there are large lightening holes in the end ribs,
> servicing shouldn't be a problem.
>
> As far as electrical systems go, I'd recommend Bob Nuckolls book &
seminars
> over any of the others I've seen.
> check out http://www.aeroelectric.com/index.html if you haven't seen his
> stuff.
>
> Phil, 80691
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaps & Aileron Attachments |
Sorry, should've mentioned it previous.
It's an RV6a..
Thanks,
RJ
====================================================================
> >Hi all,
> >Does anyone have an online photo (or 2) of a correctly mounted set of
> >aileron brackets? (on wing rear-spar?) possibly with the aileron
> >swinging free attached?
>
> What type RV are you building?
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Boxes)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More questions on the Deft Primer |
Try this URL for Deft Paint and Finishes.
http://www.deftfinishes.com/industrl.html
----- Original Message -----
From: et <et(at)airmail.net>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 9:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: More questions on the Deft Primer
>
> Hi Scott and All,
>
> Thanks for the info on the primers. I am about to primer my RV-8 tailkit,
> and after reading the archives am more
> confused than ever! ha
>
> Here are a few questions...
>
> 1) Where do you purchase your Deft primer?
>
> 2) Can you use it on the outside skins also as an undercoat for you
exterior
> paint?
>
> 3) What color is it? What are you going to use in the cockpit? Primer
only
> or
> primer and another topcoat?
>
> Thanks in advance for any info.
>
>
> Eric Tauch
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Kuebler <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 10:58 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Observations on priming (long)
>
>
> >
> > I have just completed priming my wing kit and would like to share my
> experiences with my type of primer, spraying method, weight penalty and
> general observations.
> >
> snip
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | 6A Step Installation |
The instructions for the step kit from Van's indicate using AN-470 rivits.
Is there any reason not to countersink the steel plate and use AN-426's?
Tommy
6A Fuselage
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge |
Mark,
I just completed my flaps and did not have to bend the skins!
Don't know why you did.
Peter
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> OK folks, help me out here...
>
> I assume that the flap trailing edges are not bent to final angle so
> they can be packaged with other components more easily. Dry-fitting
> shows the edge must be bent to about half the angle they are delivered.
> On the first skin I tried using the brake a made for my other control
> sufaces which was only 4' wide 2x6's by working the skin end to end-
> this .025 stuff is MUCH tougher than the other skins!) and proceeded to
> get a pretty uneven bend which left some unsightly waves in the top of
> the skin.
>
> On the second flap, I made an "industrial strength" brake by welding
> huge piano hinge along the edges of two pieces of 4" channel iron with
> two 14" handles on it and could STILL barely bend it. No matter how I
> pushed, the ends still bent more than the center. Even tried a monster
> C-clamp in the middle which helped some.
>
> Care to divulge any secrets here? It's too late for me, but those yet
> to come may benefit from y'alls experience... I wish the manual would
> provide some guidence here!
>
> >From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Step Installation |
Tommy : I used the AN-470 Rivets as called for on my RV6-A-QB but as
strong as it is considering the nylon block and bolt setup.
I doubt there would be any horizontal pull that would cause the counter
sunk rivets to pull through the step plate. Sure would look better but i am
not an engineer.
A call to Vans may be in order for piece of mind.
Tom in
Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 6:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6A Step Installation
>
> The instructions for the step kit from Van's indicate using AN-470 rivits.
> Is there any reason not to countersink the steel plate and use AN-426's?
>
> Tommy
> 6A Fuselage
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Step Installation |
Tommy Walker wrote:
>... any reason not to countersink the steel plate and use AN-426's?
If you install the steel plate out on the skin, you have a bump, so why
bother with flush rivets. If you have not installed you side skin, you
can put the steel plate inside, and use flush rivets outside for a
smooooothe look!
Richard reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, cowl/spinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | New RV Pics & Ideas |
EAA chapter 15 Member Paul Golias moved his RV-6 out to the hanger at Lewis
University airport (LOT) last week. I had the chance to stop by and
photograph a couple of new tricks and ideas he performed. The new pictures
show a little of his exquisite clear coat paint job as well as a VS strobe
idea and cowl and trim hinge pin ideas.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/paul_golias_ideas.htm
Mike & Beth Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A Step Installation |
I used the an 470 on mine , a friend used the 426 , I think he used 2more
then I did. Looks real good. He even tapered the edges and I must admit
that it lookes real good. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | What happened to the cookie sheets? |
Hehehe, ok....so my emp kit hasn't arrived yet (but it is in UPS hands as we
speak) and all my tools are here, and the new air compressor is bolted down,
220 run to it and it's plumbed with 3 air outlets. The workbench has been
done for a while now (18 feet long X 2 feet wide), the sander unit, grinder
with scotchbrite, and drill press are waiting. So there I stood, looking at
all my new tools and wondering when that kit would show up ..... when it
occured to me. I need some practice. :)
Ok, so I haven't even read what the shop head is supposed to look like
yet...haven't seen the plans or have any idea what a good rivet looks like,
but I do know how to turn on the air compressor and I do know how to drill.
So....into the kitchen and out came the cookie sheets, and the new die
grinder went to work making strips for me to make into stacked up strips
with mashed pancake like rivets holding them together (well the first few
anyway). I used the pneumatic squeezers Denny was nice enough to sell me
(nice...I think I like those), I back rivetted until I think I can hear the
difference between 'that looks nice' and 'whoa....made in taiwan?'.
Well, Melissa was all smiles about my butchering the cookie sheets, and she
even used the pneumatic sqeezer to get the feel, but only this list could
appreciate the fun I'm having...smashing the crap out of some of the oops
rivets I bought from avery. I can't wait to read how I'm supposed to be
doing it. The rivets do seem to fit in the drilled holes a bit looser than
I thought they would...but they seem ok once properly abused. :) Ok,
back to the garage..... Woohooo
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 6A Step Installation |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
> The instructions for the step kit from Van's indicate using AN-470
> rivits. Is there any reason not to countersink the steel plate and use
> AN-426's?
>
> Tommy
> 6A Fuselage
> Ridgetop, TN
Check the archives but I remember some one that put the flange on the
inside.
I went with the round heads. I would think you need to get Van's to bless
the flush ones.
After I got them on, I think they would handle even the fat girls.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Step Installation |
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Step Installation
>
> Tommy Walker wrote:
> >... any reason not to countersink the steel plate and use AN-426's?
>
> If you install the steel plate out on the skin, you have a bump, so why
> bother with flush rivets. If you have not installed you side skin, you
> can put the steel plate inside, and use flush rivets outside for a
> smooooothe look!
>
> Richard reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, cowl/spinner
>
I agree with Richard. I placed the steel plate on the inside of the skin.
I did have to bevel the edges of the steel plate as I recall to get it to
lay smooth against the skin. Only have a little over a year on it, but no
indication of any problem with mounting it inside.
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Step Installation |
Hi Tommy,
The RV-6a I saw done as you suggest looked great, made me think of doing the
same. I'm no expert, but it seems to me that the rivet load in this case is
for the most part in shear. I think there are enough of them there to carry
the load in shear. Of coarse calling Van's never hurts, that is if your not
having to give them the credit card number again. :~)
jim - Kelowna BC.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 3:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6A Step Installation
>
> The instructions for the step kit from Van's indicate using AN-470 rivits.
> Is there any reason not to countersink the steel plate and use AN-426's?
>
> Tommy
> 6A Fuselage
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Aircraft for Sale |
Something to build tail wheel time.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <VicRicLowe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 7:00 AM
Subject: Aircraft for Sale
> Cy-
>
> If you get a chance, can you put this out to your undisclosed rec net?
Thanks
>
> Richard Lowe
>
>
> The following aircraft located in Davenport Iowa is for sale.
>
> 1967 Citabria, 7ECA, lyc 0235, TT 3400, SMOH 1400, Ky97A Com, KT76A
w/mode
> C, Apollo Flybuddy 800 Loran, Intercom, DG, Attitude. Wheel Pants, Tanis
> heater, Auto gas STC, White and Gold starburst paint, Excellent Paint,
> Interior redone since new, Always Hangared. Richard Lowe 319 355-3424
> vicriclowe(at)aol.com $25,000
>
> Reason for Sale...upgrade to more crosscountry capable aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What happened to the cookie sheets? |
Bill:
With that unbridled enthusiasm you're going to pop a vein when you get your
kit!!!!! you sound much like I did a few years back. Good idea to get the wife
out early so she doesn't feel like an RV widow.
Dave Aronson
RV4
N504RV
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> Hehehe, ok....so my emp kit hasn't arrived yet (but it is in UPS hands as we
> speak) and all my tools are here, and the new air compressor is bolted down,
> 220 run to it and it's plumbed with 3 air outlets. The workbench has been
> done for a while now (18 feet long X 2 feet wide), the sander unit, grinder
> with scotchbrite, and drill press are waiting. So there I stood, looking at
> all my new tools and wondering when that kit would show up ..... when it
> occured to me. I need some practice. :)
>
> Ok, so I haven't even read what the shop head is supposed to look like
> yet...haven't seen the plans or have any idea what a good rivet looks like,
> but I do know how to turn on the air compressor and I do know how to drill.
> So....into the kitchen and out came the cookie sheets, and the new die
> grinder went to work making strips for me to make into stacked up strips
> with mashed pancake like rivets holding them together (well the first few
> anyway). I used the pneumatic squeezers Denny was nice enough to sell me
> (nice...I think I like those), I back rivetted until I think I can hear the
> difference between 'that looks nice' and 'whoa....made in taiwan?'.
>
> Well, Melissa was all smiles about my butchering the cookie sheets, and she
> even used the pneumatic sqeezer to get the feel, but only this list could
> appreciate the fun I'm having...smashing the crap out of some of the oops
> rivets I bought from avery. I can't wait to read how I'm supposed to be
> doing it. The rivets do seem to fit in the drilled holes a bit looser than
> I thought they would...but they seem ok once properly abused. :) Ok,
> back to the garage..... Woohooo
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What happened to the cookie sheets? |
Try grinding the tops of coke cans off. Makes nice little containers, for
all kinds of little stuff. Dont throw away any scrap, can recycle the alum
cookie sheets to help purchase Widgets. Terry E. Cole, flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions, questions |
|this was to accommodate the wingtip VOR antenna & the Rocket
sheared tips
|with landing lights, nav and strobe lights inside the wingtips.
Since my
|wingtip is removable & there are large lightening holes in the
end ribs,
|servicing shouldn't be a problem.
What are the rocket sheared tips? Any URL?
Ronen.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Step Installation |
Tommy Walker wrote:
>
>
> The instructions for the step kit from Van's indicate using AN-470 rivits.
> Is there any reason not to countersink the steel plate and use AN-426's?
>
> Tommy
> 6A Fuselage
> Ridgetop, TN
If you plan properly you can install the steel plate on the inside of
the skin. Countersink the steel plate, dimple the skin and use AN426
rivets.
This gives a much nicer finished appearance.
George McNutt, Langley B.C.
6A - Inst Pnl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Frisby" <whamo(at)gci.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming 0320-H2AD |
I have a line on an 0320-H2AD . Does anyone have any experience with this
engine. It has 1300 hrs on rechromed cylinders. The carb looks like its
hasn't ever been run since overhaul. I believe the carb is a MA-4. I can buy
it for 2800 dollars and it includes a flyweight starter and delco
alternator. It has a distinctive magneto in that both mags are integrated
into one unit. I hadn't seen that before.
Steven Frisby
whamo(at)gci.net
Palmer Alaska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SMOKIN222(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: PLEASE READ - Matronics Systems Upgrades... |
Matt--Will you please delete me from all matronic e-mail except the RV 6, 6-A
,* and 8-A. I would appreciate it. I'm getting flooded with matronics
e-mail--apparently because I filled the initial information out wrong. Thank
you. Sid Van landingham, Smokin 222(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Removing stubborn plastic |
Thanks to all who responded to my plea for help. I solved my problem and
want to help others that may have a hard time with the plastic.
I started my kit in 1995 so have removed lots of plastic from the
aluminum sheets by various methods. Just slow peeling, heating with a
heat gun, rolling it off slowly with a PVC pipe, etc.
This time I had to remove the white plastic from the last four bottom
skins, to finish covering the wings that were basically finished over two
years ago. Of the eight sides, five cleaned up as usual. One cleaned up
90%. The last 10% and two complete sides were impossible. The plastic had
became brittle and would only chip off veeeery slowly. I was about ready
to order new skins to start over. I finally solved the problem by using
JASCO Paint and Graffiti remover, water rinse able. Follow directions and
cautions on product. After a half hour, the plastic bubbled off and was
removed in about two minutes. I got a quart from Home Depot for about
eight dollars. Again be careful using this product, its bad stuff.
I hope this helps others that run up against this problem.
Cecil Hatfield
Thousands Oaks, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip VOR Antennae |
RE: Wingtip strobes with wingtip VOR antenae.
I have mounted wingtip strobe power supplies and strobe lights on my
RV6-A and have subsequently decided to install a VOR radio. My next
question is where to mount the VOR antennae.
My question is; can I mount a wingtip VOR antennae without encountering
interfearance from the strobe light system, or would I have better VOR
reception with the VOR antennae on the vertical stabilizer.
Would someone with a flying RV with a wingtip combination please report
on VOR reception performance and check the VOR audio to see if they have
a "tick" "tick" noise when the strobe lights fire, if so turn the strobe
light off and see if the noise goes away.
FWIW I know from experience that the wingtip strobe lights on Boeing 747
& 767 are audible on the HF Radios that have wingtip mounted HF
antennaes however it does not seem to affect performance of the HF very
much.
George McNutt, Langley B.C
6A - Inst pnl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0320-H2AD |
If not modified from the AD it is crap. Once modded it is as good as rest.
by now most should be but do not assume).
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Frisby <whamo(at)gci.net>
Date: Sunday, March 12, 2000 1:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming 0320-H2AD
>
>I have a line on an 0320-H2AD . Does anyone have any experience with this
>engine. It has 1300 hrs on rechromed cylinders. The carb looks like its
>hasn't ever been run since overhaul. I believe the carb is a MA-4. I can
buy
>it for 2800 dollars and it includes a flyweight starter and delco
>alternator. It has a distinctive magneto in that both mags are integrated
>into one unit. I hadn't seen that before.
>Steven Frisby
>whamo(at)gci.net
>Palmer Alaska
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CobraAircraft(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New Business for RVers |
RVers,
I am writing to the list to let you know that I am no longer with Team
Rocket. I have desided to venture out into other projects of interest, one of
which is to start a new company call Cobra Aircraft. I am focusing this new
company on the needs of RVers by providing accessories and parts at
tremendous prices. I will have my wesite up soon with an online catalog for
you all to browse through. When it is finalized I will let everyone know.
As you know, when I was with Team Rocket, I focused on trying to get the best
quality products at the best prices. My goal with Cobra Aircraft is to
surpass all companies by providing the best quality products at the best
prices, with the best service.
My inventory is growing all the time, so if I do not have what you need in
stock, I will have it very quickly for you. Please give me a call if you need
some parts for your RV. My number is 561-748-9929.
Thanks, and I look forward to talking to you.
Scott Brown
Cobra Aircraft
Website Coming Soon!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip VOR Antennae |
> My question is; can I mount a wingtip VOR antennae without encountering
> interfearance from the strobe light system, or would I have better VOR
> reception with the VOR antennae on the vertical stabilizer.
I have wingtip mounted VOR antenna with wingtip mounted strobe
power supplies and strobes. No bleedover noted.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0320-H2AD |
Respectfully ......hanger queen rust is the enemy of any cam/lifter. If a
0320H2AD was run frequently it will go like the rest. Mine is 1500SMOH, no
AD mods except AeroShell oil.
By AD you mean there are 2 improvements known of...T mod for bigger lifter
heads and perhaps the NEY nozzles. (Ney nozzles popular upgrade on any
Lycoming).
Or do you mean AD for oil additive? which is on Aeroshell, which the
lubricating porperties...staying thin film clung ..if I understand
it....would help any engine. Anyways if AD additive was always used TBO
wasn't unheard of either......
I wouldn't shy away from the H motor if is was running frequently, dry arid
area....has good logs and all...
I didn't and have yet to regret it....other than the extra modifications
required to fit it in the RV6
Respectfully
David McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip VOR Antennae |
--- George McNutt wrote:
> RE: Wingtip strobes with wingtip VOR antenae.
>
> My question is; can I mount a wingtip VOR antennae
> without encountering
> interfearance from the strobe light system, or would
> I have better VOR
> reception with the VOR antennae on the vertical
> stabilizer.
>
George:
I have Bob Archer's Sprotscraft VOR antennae in both
of my wing tips. One is used for my AM FM stereo. The
other for my KX-125 VOR. I am using the Whelen
strobes with the power supplies mounted on the front
side of the spar just inside the outboard most rib.
Yes a power supply under each wing tip, with RMD wing
tip lights that have the nav/strobe enclosed with the
landing light. I also have the wing strobes arranged
master / slave so that the flash in sync.
Using the RST intercom, B&C 60A alternator, and B&C
regulator; I have NO strobe noise in my DC 10-40
headsets from ANY of the radios while in flight. I
also can hook my handheld up so that the audio from it
will play through the AUX Audio 1 input on the King
radio.
The bottom line is that my setup of VOR antennae and
wing tip strobes works great for the last 519.4 flight
hours.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclops(at)ecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 40 |
Does anybody know where and when chapter 40 meets? I haven't been to one of
their meetings for a long while and now I can't find them.
I'm working on a 6 tail and I need a visit from a tech counselor in
Northridge.
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Sailer <mwsailer(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A Step Installation |
I spoke to a -6A builder from Tx. at OSH last summer who also used 426 rivets
on the steps. I forget what he told me he weighed (about 220-240lb) but he has
had no trouble in 3 years of flying
name="mwsailer.vcf"
filename="mwsailer.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Sailer;Marty
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:mwsailer(at)erols.com
note:Marty RV-6A- Plumbing Fuselage
fn:Marty Sailer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0320-H2AD |
I believe this engine has one gear that drives both
mags, if the gear fails the mags fail and your prop
stops. I may be wrong as I am quoting from memory hope
this helps
Glenn
--- Steven Frisby wrote:
>
>
> I have a line on an 0320-H2AD . Does anyone have any
> experience with this
> engine. It has 1300 hrs on rechromed cylinders. The
> carb looks like its
> hasn't ever been run since overhaul. I believe the
> carb is a MA-4. I can buy
> it for 2800 dollars and it includes a flyweight
> starter and delco
> alternator. It has a distinctive magneto in that
> both mags are integrated
> into one unit. I hadn't seen that before.
> Steven Frisby
> whamo(at)gci.net
> Palmer Alaska
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip VOR Antennae |
>My question is; can I mount a wingtip VOR antennae without encountering
>interfearance from the strobe light system, or would I have better VOR
>reception with the VOR antennae on the vertical stabilizer.
You will probably hear a "pop" in the VOR receiver's
audio when the nearby tube fires . . . but it won't affect
VOR navigation accuracy, only the quality of your received
signal if you're listening to a VOR transmitter as a
communications remote . . .
>FWIW I know from experience that the wingtip strobe lights on Boeing 747
>& 767 are audible on the HF Radios that have wingtip mounted HF
>antennaes however it does not seem to affect performance of the HF very
>much.
I'd expect similar results with VOR as well . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJaerosports(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 40 |
Hi Ed
Chapter 40 pres. is Charles Ducat ( 818) 705-2744
at Congregation Church in northridge on the 3rd Fri at 8:00 pm . Good Luck on
your adventure .
Dwain Harris
RV-6 164DH
Whiteman Hgr # 34
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
Listers,
Planning my fwf fuel plumbing, questions on my Marvel Schebler MA-4-5
carb...
1. There is a hole with a plug in it on the boss where the main fuel line
goes into the carburetor; is this a good place to connect a line for the
fuel pressure transducer? (Van's fwf diagram shows a T or Y coming out of
the engine-driven fuel pump, one of which goes to the carb and the other to
the fuel pressure transducer. Would coming off the input boss be
preferrable?)
2. In locating the fuel flow transducer for my Electronics International
FP-5 (small Floscan unit); can one connect it via an L fitting directly to
the output of the gascolator (Andair), then run the flex line to the input
of the engine driven fuel pump?
3. I've heard that there is a tapped hole for the carb temp sensor; is it on
the front of the carb at near the same level as the throttle butterfly
pivot?
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, plumbing & wiring
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Contactor orientation |
Listers,
More fwf questions, wiring this time. Can the main battery contactor be
oriented upside down? I have no performance theory on this, just that the
cable routing would make a cleaner install where I have it if I could invert
it.
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, wiring & plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
I'm looking at the "RV" tool kits available from Avery's, Aircraft Spruce,
and Aircraft Tool Supply. Obviously the kits are not exactly alike but any
comments on helping me choose the best one.
Avery's $1205 for RV-A and RV-B kit
Aircraft Spruce $795 for Master Builders Kit
Aircraft Tool Supply $1235.50 for RV6 kit
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
Future RV-6A builder
CF-SND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb questions |
> 1. There is a hole with a plug in it on the boss where the main fuel line
> goes into the carburetor; is this a good place to connect a line for the
> fuel pressure transducer?
Yes either there or the tee will work fine, just depends on which way works
best for you. I took mine off carb, because in my set-up, the routing of the
main fuel line from the pump to the carb worked better with a 45 degree from
the fuel pump, and the 45 degree fitting doesn't have a tee.
> 2. In locating the fuel flow transducer for my Electronics International
> FP-5 (small Floscan unit); can one connect it via an L fitting directly to
> the output of the gascolator (Andair), then run the flex line to the input
> of the engine driven fuel pump?
Should be ok, although I'd use as few angle fittings as possible, as the
more you have the more restricted the flow will be. And of course make sure
it's well supported -- you probably should have a supplemental support like
an adel clamp off the firewall as opposed to just hanging it from the
gascolator.
> 3. I've heard that there is a tapped hole for the carb temp sensor; is it
on
> the front of the carb at near the same level as the throttle butterfly
> pivot?
Yes, that's it. Probably has a slotted head plug in it now...?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Steve,
You missed one. Check out Cleaveland Aircraft tools. I picked them and am
very happy with quality and price. I've also bought from Avery and Brown
when I needed tools not carried by Cleaveland.
Regards,
Bob RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Steve Hurlbut
> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 01:20 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV Tool Kits
>
>
> I'm looking at the "RV" tool kits available from Avery's, Aircraft Spruce,
> and Aircraft Tool Supply. Obviously the kits are not exactly alike but any
> comments on helping me choose the best one.
>
> Avery's $1205 for RV-A and RV-B kit
> Aircraft Spruce $795 for Master Builders Kit
> Aircraft Tool Supply $1235.50 for RV6 kit
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> Future RV-6A builder
> CF-SND
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming 0320-H2AD |
I have 450hrs on mine in an RV6A....no problems so far. The first run was
in a Skyhawk and it got to 2300hrs before overhaul.
The engine needs the correct oil or additive (Shell 15W-50 or equiv). I
always preheat below about 35 degrees F.
The major issue for me is that it has no governor pad and can't take a
constant speed prop.
There is only one mag. It's a Bendix 2000 series and is actually dual mags
mounted on a common drive.
Good buys are getting scarce as folks find out the engine is really pretty
good.
allen
Allen Duberstein
allen.duberstein(at)intel.com
Phone: 412-831-7302
Fax: 412-831-5742
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams [mailto:willig10(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2000 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming 0320-H2AD
I believe this engine has one gear that drives both
mags, if the gear fails the mags fail and your prop
stops. I may be wrong as I am quoting from memory hope
this helps
Glenn
--- Steven Frisby wrote:
>
>
> I have a line on an 0320-H2AD . Does anyone have any
> experience with this
> engine. It has 1300 hrs on rechromed cylinders. The
> carb looks like its
> hasn't ever been run since overhaul. I believe the
> carb is a MA-4. I can buy
> it for 2800 dollars and it includes a flyweight
> starter and delco
> alternator. It has a distinctive magneto in that
> both mags are integrated
> into one unit. I hadn't seen that before.
> Steven Frisby
> whamo(at)gci.net
> Palmer Alaska
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Tool Kits |
I ending up sourcing my tools through Cleaveland, Avery, Brown Tool Co,
and Home Depot. This was more trouble than simply buying a kit, but I
used the kit listings from both Avery and Cleaveland as a guide, and
ending up saving money on some things that way. For example, the snips,
dead blow hammer, C clamps, etc. were cheaper at HD than they were in
the catalogs. The "riveter's tape" is simple 3M Magic tape available at
Office Depot, etc. In some areas (drill and rivet gun), I ending up
spending more money for some very good equipment (Sioux) and have been
very happy with those selections...you probably spend more time with
your drill and rivet gun than anything else. I do recommend buying the
hand squeezer from Avery since it uses the same yokes as the pneumatic
squeezer (another great tool, if you can afford it).
Good Luck
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Hurlbut <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 12:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV Tool Kits
>
> I'm looking at the "RV" tool kits available from Avery's, Aircraft
Spruce,
> and Aircraft Tool Supply. Obviously the kits are not exactly alike but
any
> comments on helping me choose the best one.
>
> Avery's $1205 for RV-A and RV-B kit
> Aircraft Spruce $795 for Master Builders Kit
> Aircraft Tool Supply $1235.50 for RV6 kit
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> Future RV-6A builder
> CF-SND
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Broken bolt, the final installment |
Many, many thanks for all those who supplied information about the theory
behind removal of broken studs and bolts from the engine case. There is a
wealth of experience out there. That is why this is a great resource for
all of us. I removed the stud yesterday morning without any trouble and
felt like I had a dozen or so experienced wrench turners looking over my
shoulder.
That actual removal was a non-event. The bolt had broken off about 1/8 inch
below the surface of the mounting boss on the engine case, so I could not
slot it and use a screwdriver. For that reason, I tried the least invasive
procedure of using the center punch to tap the broken stud counterclockwise.
It would not budge.
The next step was to get out the drill. As several listers pointed out, the
EZ-out is embossed with the correct size drill to use. That answered one of
my questions! I drilled a 1/16 inch pilot hole clear through the bolt/stud
from end to end. The bolt was a good half inch from bottoming out in its
hole. I shot some WD-40 into the hole and used the center punch to
(lightly) tap on the end. I opened up the pilot hole with the correct
drill, then I (lightly) tapped the EZ-out into the hole. I put an
adjustable wrench to the EZ-out and the broken stud came right out.
I posted a similar thank-you and report yesterday, but I think it got
bounced in the upgrade of the RV-List. My apologies if any of you got my
earlier posting and had to read this twice.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | essential bus wiring |
| From: | "Louis Cappucci" <N32LC(at)worldnet.att.net> |
listers,
thanks to those of you who pointed out the obvious flaw in my last wiring
scheme! now i have another question...
let's assume that i will be using a diode between the main bus and the
e-bus. electric bob's diagrams show two short, unprotected wires from each
bus to the diode. however, for various installation reasons, want to put the
two fuse blocks about three feet apart. what would be the best way to do
this? cb, fuse or fusible link? do i need them on both ends or just one?
thanks,
louis cappucci
rv-6a wiring
mamaroneck, ny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Flap trailing edge |
Listers,
Can't speak for the your kit flap trailing edge status, but of the two
sets I've built, both required final radius bending of the trailing edge. No
special bending breaks were needed. Just put the ready to rivet skin on the
edge of a straight bench, and with a 1" x 3" fir strip and "C" clamps,
squeeze the edge to the proper radius. Real simple, and it does a nice neat
job......
____
From: Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap trailing edge
Mark,
I just completed my flaps and did not have to bend the skins!
Don't know why you did.
Peter
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> OK folks, help me out here...
>
> I assume that the flap trailing edges are not bent to final angle
so
> they can be packaged with other components more easily.
Dry-fitting
> shows the edge must be bent to about half the angle they are
delivered.
> On the first skin I tried using the brake a made for my other
control
> sufaces which was only 4' wide 2x6's by working the skin end to
end-
> this .025 stuff is MUCH tougher than the other skins!) and
proceeded to
> get a pretty uneven bend which left some unsightly waves in the
top of
> the skin.
>
> On the second flap, I made an "industrial strength" brake by
welding
> huge piano hinge along the edges of two pieces of 4" channel iron
with
> two 14" handles on it and could STILL barely bend it. No matter
how I
> pushed, the ends still bent more than the center. Even tried a
monster
> C-clamp in the middle which helped some.
>
> Care to divulge any secrets here? It's too late for me, but those
yet
> to come may benefit from y'alls experience... I wish the manual
would
> provide some guidence here!
>
> >From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Hays <jshays(at)interaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: essential bus wiring |
Louis -
I have essentially the same circuit in my plane, and have about 18"
between the main and ess. bus. I did deviate from Bob's plan and added a
relay in the circuit between the main and ess. bus as I don't feel that
switches are really designed for these kinds of loads. I also used a large
Schottky Diode (rated at 40A) and mounted it on a heatsink. The main bus
feed and the ess. bus feed are already protected via the fusible link/fuse
at the alternator and master relay's. A fuse inline between the two buses
would really not be necesary. I used a fuse directly off the battery for
feeding the ess. bus. alternate feed. I don't think a fusible link is a
good idea here, because if you are already on your essential bus alternate
feed, and you've got a short in the circuit... You already have some
pretty extensive problems, so I think a properly sized fast blowing fuse
is the best choice.
Note: My ess. bus feed relay from the main is set to energize ON,
the ess. bus alternate feed relay is wired to deenergize on. This is done
since in the event I lose the main bus, or have a problem on it I don't
want the circuit to the alternate feed bus closed in failure mode. The
alternate feed is of course the opposite situation, I want it as available
as possible.
Ess. Bus circuitry:
Bat>-----{ess. bus alternate feed}-------> (ess. bus)
Main bus>-----{ess. bus main feed}-------> (ess. bus)
Main bus circuitry:
Bat>-------> (main bus)
Regards, Jeff Hays
On Mon, 13 Mar 2000, Louis Cappucci wrote:
>
> listers,
>
> thanks to those of you who pointed out the obvious flaw in my last wiring
> scheme! now i have another question...
>
> let's assume that i will be using a diode between the main bus and the
> e-bus. electric bob's diagrams show two short, unprotected wires from each
> bus to the diode. however, for various installation reasons, want to put the
> two fuse blocks about three feet apart. what would be the best way to do
> this? cb, fuse or fusible link? do i need them on both ends or just one?
>
> thanks,
> louis cappucci
> rv-6a wiring
> mamaroneck, ny
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | torque for engine bolts/mount |
Does anyone know the torq spec for the engine bolts(conical) and the bolts
that mount the engine mount to the firewall(RV4)?
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: torque for engine bolts/mount |
I couldn't find anything on this, and referred to the Orndorff video, and he
says "tighten until the mounts are compressed"
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Crud in spark plugs |
Listers,
I'm doing some firewall forward inspections and maintenance on my
O-360 after 60 hours of more flying fun than words can describe.
I decided to pull the plugs and rotate them to hopefully prolong their
lives. I found some deeply impacted bits of hard crud in a few of the plugs
that looked like metal. Ack! The little chunks are about the size of a
broken pencil lead, look almost like little stones or bits of crystallized
metal. They are NOT magnetic. They crumble with screwdriver blade pressure
in the palm of my hand. I read in John Schwaner's "Skyranch Engineering
manual" that these bits of debris that are brittle like this are most likely
fused carbon deposits. He suggests placing the debris on a hard surface and
smacking them with a hammer. Metal will deform to some extent whereas carbon
will shatter. I would think this test might be highly dependent on how much
hammer force is applied so I'm not sure how valid this approach is.
Compressions on all cylinders are very good, in the middle to low 70's, oil
consumption is about a quart in 8 hours, and the plugs themselves show a
nice, even tan coloration with no signs of oil or
any globules of lead. I've been running on the smooth side of max lean at
all altitudes above 5,000' density, and using Marvel mystery oil in the
fuel. The engine has about 400 hours on it SMOH and is running great in all
other regards.
My main question is this: have other RV'ers found this kind of crud in their
plugs at any time? I do plan to change the oil and inspect the filter in a
few days. If I find the same kind of chunks in the filter media, I reckon
I've got a serious problem brewing. If not, and the stuff is only found in
the plugs, then....well...who knows?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
>My main question is this: have other RV'ers found this kind of crud in
>their
>plugs at any time? I do plan to change the oil and inspect the filter in a
>few days. If I find the same kind of chunks in the filter media, I reckon
>I've got a serious problem brewing. If not, and the stuff is only found in
>the plugs, then....well...who knows?
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
Brian, Don't sweat it. This is normal. Years ago when I worked on other
peoples airplanes I had to use a special vibrating tool to clean out that
hard crap out of plugs. Believe its lead deposits, but not sure. I do know
that this is common.
Rick Caldwell
-6 31.6 hrs
Melbourne, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lycoming 0320-H2AD Issues |
Yes they have a single drive....
So when the time comes a Flywheel mounted Electronic Ignition is the way to go.
And a single drive mag fits in the hols givine you true back up. Many continentials
have this unit the H2AD's get loads of bad press for it, though.
The Electronics international digital p lead driven tach is the only one I found
to work. The UMA one per facxtory engineers would not/did not work.
Issues in my RV6 were:
Tough Baffles to fabricate (from a Van's kit), mechanical fuel pump pad machined?,
fuel line routings, Different engine mount (Van's has now), addition of cowl
bumps, different alternator mounting, have to make your own throttle cable
brackets. Cam lock top cowl along rear edge.
I can explain if asked
David McManmon
demcmanmon(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | Crud in spark plugs |
What you've got my man is LEAD!
the plugs are running too cold or you are running too rich at idle.
Comanches with O-540's are notorious for this with 100LL. I had to take my
plugs out every 25 hours and clean them or they would be fouled. Here's what
you want to do.
First, start using TCP. It's a lead scavenger. You add it to the fuel.
Second, lean the engine on the ground and run the rpm at 1000 if you can
without overheating. If you can't keep the rpm at 1000 at least lean the
engine. (don't forget to go to full rich for takeoff!)
This solved my problem and I now go the who year without a problem. I find
only a few small little balls of lead during annual and the plugs stay
happy.
Happy flying!
Bob
RV8#423 Wings in basement in NH, I'm in Australia!
> ----------
> From: Brian Denk
> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 01:51 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)onelist.com
> Subject: RV-List: Crud in spark plugs
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm doing some firewall forward inspections and maintenance on my
> O-360 after 60 hours of more flying fun than words can describe.
>
> I decided to pull the plugs and rotate them to hopefully prolong their
> lives. I found some deeply impacted bits of hard crud in a few of the
> plugs
> that looked like metal. Ack! The little chunks are about the size of a
> broken pencil lead, look almost like little stones or bits of crystallized
>
> metal. They are NOT magnetic. They crumble with screwdriver blade
> pressure
> in the palm of my hand. I read in John Schwaner's "Skyranch Engineering
> manual" that these bits of debris that are brittle like this are most
> likely
> fused carbon deposits. He suggests placing the debris on a hard surface
> and
> smacking them with a hammer. Metal will deform to some extent whereas
> carbon
> will shatter. I would think this test might be highly dependent on how
> much
> hammer force is applied so I'm not sure how valid this approach is.
>
> Compressions on all cylinders are very good, in the middle to low 70's,
> oil
> consumption is about a quart in 8 hours, and the plugs themselves show a
> nice, even tan coloration with no signs of oil or
> any globules of lead. I've been running on the smooth side of max lean at
>
> all altitudes above 5,000' density, and using Marvel mystery oil in the
> fuel. The engine has about 400 hours on it SMOH and is running great in
> all
> other regards.
>
> My main question is this: have other RV'ers found this kind of crud in
> their
> plugs at any time? I do plan to change the oil and inspect the filter in a
>
> few days. If I find the same kind of chunks in the filter media, I reckon
>
> I've got a serious problem brewing. If not, and the stuff is only found in
>
> the plugs, then....well...who knows?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
STEVE,
Well, I gave it my best shot to set up transition training in the rv6,
unfortunately Mike Seager is booked all the way to the fall. Jerry
Vansgrusven will not be giving transition training for a while, so he is out
of the question. Bill Benedict (from Van's) suggested if you want to get
transition training, start contacting Mike Seager in the fall, to set up time
for Oshkosh. I may try to do his schedule at the sun-n-fun next year, but
i'll have to talk to Mike Seager about that 1st.
scott reviere
tampa
rv6a waiting on finishing kit
abayman(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: torque for engine bolts/mount |
Tony Bingelis says "I simply torque the bolt heads until the unyielding
resistance encountered indicates that the steel spacers in the shock mounts
have definitely bottomed out." TB on Engines page 43.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
>From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111)
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Crud in spark plugs
>Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 15:14:23 -0500
>
>201-229-111) with ESMTP
>
>Brian Denk wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > I'm doing some firewall forward inspections and maintenance on my
> > O-360 after 60 hours of more flying fun than words can describe.
> My main question is this: have other RV'ers found this kind of crud in
>their
> > plugs at any time? I do plan to change the oil and inspect the filter in
>a
> > few days. If I find the same kind of chunks in the filter media, I
>reckon
> > I've got a serious problem brewing. If not, and the stuff is only found
>in
> > the plugs, then....well...who knows?
> >
> > Brian Denk
> > RV8 N94BD
> >
>Brian--
>
>From this side of the monitor it sounds like lead, given the overall
>color of your spark plugs and if you're using 100LL, that's normal. Of
>course, if you're using unleaded mogas, hit the delete key now. Did you
>happen to notice if the fouled ones were top or bottom plugs? I'm not a
>mechanic but I've never heard of metallic fragments in the oil showing
>up adhering to the spark plug. There's supposed to be a standard of 2.0
>milliliters of TEL per gal of 100LL, but not all refineries adhere to
>that.
>
>If you're really worried about the deposits, there's two things you can
>try as an experiment: 1. replace the MMO in your gas with TCP for a
>few weeks. You should notice that the inside of you exhaust pipes may
>become a little lighter in color from excess lead being scavenged. And
>when you pull your spark plugs the "crud" will be more crumbly. 2.
>Swish/soak one of your fouled plugs or put some of the crud fragments in
>Hoppes #9 gun cleaning solvent (it's supposed to dissolve and remove
>lead particles from gun barrels) and watch it crumble apart on its own.
>
>Boyd.
Boyd and all you cool cats,
Thanks! I've heard of lead deposits gumming up the plugs, but didn't think
it would be quite as obvious as those chunks were. I am using 100LL
exclusively, and have a real battle going on with the whole avgas/mogas
debate. I would really like to just run mogas, but that adds such a
logistics issue to flying. Where to get it? Not a single airport I've been
to in this state has it on the field. I think the plugs in question were on
the bottom, but can't recall for sure. I have some Hoppe's no. 9. Doesn't
every rootin' tootin' shootin' RV drivin' gunslinger? ;)
I talked with John Schwaner from Skyranch about it and he recommends placing
the bits of debris in a solution of Drano and water. If the pieces are
aluminum, they will turn black and dissolve. This would indeed indicate that
something serious is going on. The stuff ain't magnetic, so that rules out
steel. He says that lead deposits would be malleable, and take a form with
mere pressure from a thumb nail. These bits of crud would not, but crumbled
into pieces.
I'll be changing the oil this weekend, and will cut the filter apart to
inspect the media. No chunks=I go flying and live happily ever after.
Chunks=find nearest watering hole and drown sorrows in 1,000 octane brew.
>Put those plugs back in and go flying.
I'm gonna do just that! But first, I'm installing a new lightweight starter
to get rid of that boat anchor Prestolite on Wednesday. Gotta reduce the
"bubba factor" of my airplane. It's the "three hundred fifty dollar starter
diet plan", soon to be hyped on pay-per-view.
Thanks again folks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
> My main question is this: have other RV'ers found this kind of crud in
their
> plugs at any time? I do plan to change the oil and inspect the filter in a
> few days. If I find the same kind of chunks in the filter media, I reckon
> I've got a serious problem brewing. If not, and the stuff is only found in
> the plugs, then....well...who knows?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
Brian,
As others have indicated the stuff on the spark plugs is most likely
lead/carbon, and a combination of TCP and leaning should deal with this
nicely. I wanted to encourage you however to get on an oil analysis program.
If the motor is starting to self-destruct internally you want to know about
it before you have to dead stick it in again (even though you are an ace at
it!). There are several known labs around that you could go with. My choice
would be (will be, and was when I owned my Cessna) Howard Fenton. I forget
the company's name right now, I think it's simply "Oil Analysis" and he's in
Oklahoma. Perhaps someone else on the list can provide his contact
information. He has developed quite a reputation with the Cessna Pilots
Association and other aviation groups.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, plumbing and wiring
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
Listers,
I tried out the racheting cables Van sells for cabin heat, carb heat, etc.,
and HATED the racheting action. First, because the racheting causes the
whole panel to shake. Also, these cables require far too much force to move.
Aircraft Spruce sells basically the same cables, minus the ratcheting action.
Is there any reason I don't want to use a smooth acting cable for carb
and/or cabin heat?
By the way, Van's is improving its customer service. I put in an order for a
widget the other day and requested 3 day shipping. They called back, said
the part was out of stock, but would be back in stock in 2 days. Would I
mind if they shipped it for free, via a one day service? Lemme see.. I get
the part I need, when I need it, and with zero shipping cost... That's the
kind of service I like.
I wish I could say the same for Skybolt. I've been waiting on hoses and ends
for 3 weeks...
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0320-H2AD Issues |
>The Electronics international digital p lead driven tach is the only one I
found to work. The UMA one per facxtory >engineers would not/did not work.
My hangar mate and I are both flying H2AD's in our RVs. The RMI
microMonitor tachometer did not function properly in either of our aircraft
until we put an electronic filter (less than $5 worth of parts) our
tachometer pickup line. Lots of electronic noise on the p-leads.
> Issues in my RV6 were:
> Tough Baffles to fabricate (from a Van's kit), mechanical fuel pump pad
machined?, fuel line routings, Different >engine mount (Van's has now),
addition of cowl bumps, different alternator mounting,
I second the above
>....have to make your own throttle cable brackets.
On my RV-6, a Cessna 172 bracket worked, no modification required. Got mine
($25) from Bobby's Planes 'N Parts, see Yeller pages.
>...Cam lock top cowl along rear edge.
??? My cowl is attached per plans with the addition of a small access door
at the aft edge to allow access to cowl pins. The oil filler access door,
located more toward the top of the cowling than in other engine
installations, does not allow convenient access to them.
Bob Hall
150 TTAF, 2125 TTE and running strong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tax payment in Oregon |
Could someone in Oregon please tell me what the tax payment (if any) is on an
RV? This would have to do with the completed machine, ready to fly. Thanks
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torque for engine bolts/mount |
Why wouldn't the torque be that which is appropriate for those size bolts?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
> Tony Bingelis says "I simply torque the bolt heads until the unyielding
> resistance encountered indicates that the steel spacers in the shock
mounts
> have definitely bottomed out." TB on Engines page 43.
> Dale Ensing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
As others have indicated the stuff on the spark plugs is most likely
lead/carbon, and a combination of TCP and leaning should deal with this
nicely. I wanted to encourage you however to get on an oil analysis program.
If the motor is starting to self-destruct internally you want to know about
it before you have to dead stick it in again (even though you are an ace at
it!). There are several known labs around that you could go with. My choice
would be (will be, and was when I owned my Cessna) Howard Fenton. I forget
the company's name right now, I think it's simply "Oil Analysis" and he's in
Oklahoma. Perhaps someone else on the list can provide his contact
information. He has developed quite a reputation with the Cessna Pilots
Association and other aviation groups.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, pl<<
Randy and others, I pulled up a website under "oilanalysis.com" that is from
a company called Noria. Does anyone know if this is the same one Randy is
referring to? No location given so I don't know if they are in OK. Andy
Johnson, -8 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV Rubber Stamps |
Listers
I have done a few Rubber Stamps and was woundering if anybody had gotten
their stamps yet. If you have, let everyone know what you think. If you
missed the post you can go to my web site and look at different layouts.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
http://members.aol.com/panelcut
panelcut(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bart Stone" <bart(at)smipc.net> |
Help!
I'm trying to learn how to use my spray gun!!
What is the normal pressure to operate the gun?
How thin do I thin paint if I have no thinning directions on the can? Is
primmer and paint thinned the same?
An old timer told me to thin so that there is only a 2 second run of paint
off a stirring stick until it turned to a drip. I tried this and paint
seems to be too thin, it just runs off the metal. It is not a run like to
much paint in one spot, but like the paint runs off in sheets.
My Setup:
Sears gun @40 psi w/ dryer
Sears 5hp compressor
S&W epoxy primmer(spray can) -- wet sanded
RustOleum Paint (steel parts--testing)
Thanks
Bart
RV-6a 609PS Reserved
bart(at)smipc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
What you have in your plugs is carbon deposits.I would think you are not
leaning your mixture enough as a rich mixture creates more carbon.Use a thin
pick to clean the carbon out of the plugs.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 1:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Crud in spark plugs
>
> Listers,
>
> >
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0320-H2AD |
T mod.
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com <RV6160hp(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, March 12, 2000 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming 0320-H2AD
>
>Respectfully ......hanger queen rust is the enemy of any cam/lifter. If a
>0320H2AD was run frequently it will go like the rest. Mine is 1500SMOH, no
>AD mods except AeroShell oil.
>
>By AD you mean there are 2 improvements known of...T mod for bigger lifter
>heads and perhaps the NEY nozzles. (Ney nozzles popular upgrade on any
>Lycoming).
>
>Or do you mean AD for oil additive? which is on Aeroshell, which the
>lubricating porperties...staying thin film clung ..if I understand
>it....would help any engine. Anyways if AD additive was always used TBO
>wasn't unheard of either......
>
>I wouldn't shy away from the H motor if is was running frequently, dry arid
>area....has good logs and all...
>
>I didn't and have yet to regret it....other than the extra modifications
>required to fit it in the RV6
>
>Respectfully
>David McManmon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
Lead. One of the reasons autogas is great on low compression motors, no lead
fouling.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, March 13, 2000 1:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Crud in spark plugs
>
>Listers,
>
>I'm doing some firewall forward inspections and maintenance on my
>O-360 after 60 hours of more flying fun than words can describe.
>
>I decided to pull the plugs and rotate them to hopefully prolong their
>lives. I found some deeply impacted bits of hard crud in a few of the
plugs
>that looked like metal. Ack! The little chunks are about the size of a
>broken pencil lead, look almost like little stones or bits of crystallized
>metal. They are NOT magnetic. They crumble with screwdriver blade pressure
>in the palm of my hand. I read in John Schwaner's "Skyranch Engineering
>manual" that these bits of debris that are brittle like this are most
likely
>fused carbon deposits. He suggests placing the debris on a hard surface and
>smacking them with a hammer. Metal will deform to some extent whereas
carbon
>will shatter. I would think this test might be highly dependent on how much
>hammer force is applied so I'm not sure how valid this approach is.
>
>Compressions on all cylinders are very good, in the middle to low 70's, oil
>consumption is about a quart in 8 hours, and the plugs themselves show a
>nice, even tan coloration with no signs of oil or
>any globules of lead. I've been running on the smooth side of max lean at
>all altitudes above 5,000' density, and using Marvel mystery oil in the
>fuel. The engine has about 400 hours on it SMOH and is running great in all
>other regards.
>
>My main question is this: have other RV'ers found this kind of crud in
their
>plugs at any time? I do plan to change the oil and inspect the filter in a
>few days. If I find the same kind of chunks in the filter media, I reckon
>I've got a serious problem brewing. If not, and the stuff is only found in
>the plugs, then....well...who knows?
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 6/6A project-wanted |
| From: | Joe L Cabe <jsaecabe(at)juno.com> |
I'm looking for a tail and wing kit for a 6 or 6A.
Joe in Ohio.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Navaid Autopilot |
Fellow RV'ers,
I have a brand new Navaid Autopilot for sale that's never been out of the
box.
I was planning to do a full IFR upgrade on my 6A and wanted to include an
autopilot as well. For a number of reasons I decided not to do the upgrade,
so I won't be needing the autopilot after all.
This particular one includes the "Smart Coupler" already factory-installed.
That's the circuitry that converts the digital signal from a GPS to analog so
the autopilot can track it (like it does a VOR signal). Based on a review of
the installation instructions it appears to be pretty easy to set the Navaid
up to track either a VOR signal or a GPS signal (Smart Coupler circuitry
mandatory though).
I'm asking $1,450, exactly what I paid for it. Navaid's warranty doesn't
start until your aircraft is actually flying, so you will have all the
advantages normally associated with a brand new unit. I'll be happy to
include the original sales slip so you'll have proof of purchase
documentation. I haven't checked lately, but there was about a 3 month
backlog on any new orders.
Please let me know if you're interested via return E-mail (cteater(at)aol.com)
or give me a call at work at 714-674-8412 (California). I'll be out of town
on business and unable to check E mail again until this Thursday evening but
will answer any replies as soon as I can.
Chuck Teater
Flying RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
--- Brian Denk wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I'm doing ...cut... inspections and
> maintenance on my
> O-360 after 60 hours of more flying ...cut...
> I found some deeply impacted bits of hard
> crud in a few of the plugs
> that looked like metal. Ack! The little chunks are
> about the size of a
> broken pencil lead, look almost like little stones
> or bits of crystallized
> metal. They are NOT magnetic. They crumble with
> screwdriver blade pressure
> in the palm of my hand.
>
> .....cut.....and the
> plugs themselves show a
> nice, even tan coloration with no signs of oil or
> any globules of lead. I've been running on the
> smooth side of max lean at
> all altitudes above 5,000' density, and using Marvel
> mystery oil in the
> fuel. The engine has about 400 hours on it SMOH and
> is running great in all
> other regards.
>
> My main question is this: have other RV'ers found
> this kind of crud in their
> plugs at any time? I do plan to change the oil and
> inspect the filter in a
> few days. ......cut.....
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
Brian:
The little round hard glass or porcelain like beads or
globules are lead. I get the same thing. My plugs
have been cleaned twice in 500+ hours. I lean all the
time everywhere except when I want max power. Plugs
only get cleaned once a year (apx 200 hours).
I send an oil sample out for analysis every other oil
change. (change oil and filter = 50 hours, oil,
filter , and analysis every 100 hours.)
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Killion <ckillion(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | MT Propeller prices |
RV Listers,
Perhaps the following email I received is an idication of a price
reduction for MT props through
Van's accessory catalog.
Clay
starting RV6 (soon)
Dear Mr. Clay Killion,
thank you for your e-mail.
We are aware of the 2500+ Aircraft and we are just setting up with VAN'S
Aircraft the option catalog.
Best Regards.
MT Propeller Entwicklung GmbH
Eric Greindl
"Eric Greindl" <Eric.Greindl@mt-propeller.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Frisby" <whamo(at)gci.net> |
I have been blown away by all the emails I received from the list members
concerning the 0320-H2AD I considered buying. I haven't even ordered my tail
kit yet (building a 28 by 30 workshop in may/june). But I am very encouraged
by all the support offered so far by everyone. It makes a huge endeavor
like building an airplane seem even more achievable. Thanks to all who
responded already and those that will be called upon for advice in the
future.
Steven Frisby
whamo(at)gci.net
Palmer Alaska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Cables |
In a message dated 3/13/00 4:44:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< I tried out the racheting cables Van sells for cabin heat, carb heat,
etc.,
and HATED the racheting action. First, because the racheting causes the
whole panel to shake. Also, these cables require far too much force to
move.
Aircraft Spruce sells basically the same cables, minus the ratcheting
action.
Is there any reason I don't want to use a smooth acting cable for carb
and/or cabin heat? >>
The ratchet equipped cables stay where you put them. A small but persistent
force will eventually cause the mechanism you are controlling via an
unratcheted cable to creep. As a control freak I wouldn't want an
uncommanded motion.
I don't know why your panel would shake unless it is oil canning due to lack
of support. On the ratchet equipped cables you can adjust the spring that
provides the ratcheting action if you are careful or remove it entirely if
you decide you really want to go that way.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
In a message dated 3/13/00 5:19:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com writes:
<< My choice
would be (will be, and was when I owned my Cessna) Howard Fenton. I forget
the company's name right now, I think it's simply "Oil Analysis" and he's in
Oklahoma. Perhaps someone else on the list can provide his contact
information. He has developed quite a reputation with the Cessna Pilots
Association and other aviation groups.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, pl<<
Randy and others, I pulled up a website under "oilanalysis.com" that is from
a company called Noria. Does anyone know if this is the same one Randy is
referring to? >>
No, this is not Howard Fenton's company (Engine Oil Analysis). Howard's
contact info is in the Yeller Pages, always has been. Howard has been in the
biz forever and only does aircraft oil analysis. He is the only one IMO to
evaluate aircraft oil contaminants. Everyone else is a wannabe.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: essential bus wiring |
>> let's assume that i will be using a diode between the main bus and the
>> e-bus. electric bob's diagrams show two short, unprotected wires from each
>> bus to the diode. however, for various installation reasons, want to put
the
>> two fuse blocks about three feet apart. what would be the best way to do
>> this? cb, fuse or fusible link? do i need them on both ends or just one?
I'd like to see the essential bus within a foot of the main bus
and 6-inch leads to the diode assembly don't need to be protected.
If you separate them this far, put the diode right at the e-bus
and drive the feeder from one of the main bus fuse slots with
about a 7.5A fuse in it.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Contactor orientation |
>
>Listers,
>
>More fwf questions, wiring this time. Can the main battery contactor be
>oriented upside down? I have no performance theory on this, just that the
>cable routing would make a cleaner install where I have it if I could invert
>it.
Yes . . . all the tales about contactors opening and
closing in flight due to g-loads are unverifiable
both as to source and the physics of the event. It
will be fine oriented as you propose.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Propeller prices |
team rocket aircraft is already set up with MT props.
www.teamrocketaircraft.com I know they dont have the right prop in their
catalog for an RV, but i am sure you could call mark and he can get if for
you. Also team rocket has whirlwind props.
CHris WIlcox
F-1 ROcket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 0320-H2AD |
Steven, I have added 160 hours to my H2AD for a total of 2020 hours. It
came from a C172 and has never had any work done on it...continues to
run flowlessly if a little lean. This means I don't have to worry with
leaning often at low altitudes but I have no problem with overtemp
either.
My engine has a pad for a prop governor but I like my Sensenich fixed
pitch prop. I paid $3500 for this first run high time engine without
starter or alternator.
Blisters must be installed on the cowl to avoid contact with the fuel
pump and the governor pad. Special engine mount can be requested from
Vans for a small surcharge. To simplify the plumbing I am using two
Facet pumps mounted on the firewall (no engine driven pump). The engine
driven fuel pump, if used, requires fuel lines to the left forward
corner of the engine. I sometimes use mogas and have had no problem
with vapor lock.
The location of the oil door may not agree with the indicated location
on the new S cowl. I don't know if the blisters would be more difficult
to install on the new cowl. I have the standard cowl.
Ney nozzles or other mods have not been done to my engine. My oil guru
recommended the use of Phillips XC 10W50 oil with Lycoming additive and
that is what I use. Oil analysis is obtained each 50 hours. Compression
and oil analysis results are currently excellent.
I am pleased with this first run H2AD engine. What does Brian Files
have to say? Isn't he your neighbor in the North country?
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying through 160 hours
Steven Frisby wrote:
>
>
> I have a line on an 0320-H2AD . Does anyone have any experience with this
> engine. It has 1300 hrs on rechromed cylinders. The carb looks like its
> hasn't ever been run since overhaul. I believe the carb is a MA-4. I can buy
> it for 2800 dollars and it includes a flyweight starter and delco
> alternator. It has a distinctive magneto in that both mags are integrated
> into one unit. I hadn't seen that before.
> Steven Frisby
> whamo(at)gci.net
> Palmer Alaska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: torque for engine bolts/mount |
In a message dated 3/13/00 6:38:00 PM Central Standard Time,
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
<< Why wouldn't the torque be that which is appropriate for those size bolts?
>>
The torque for the size bolt would be appropriate except you cannot get a
torque wrench on to the nuts to do the job and using the torque wrench on the
bolts would be meaningless with all the friction caused by the assembly.
Dale Ensing
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Cables |
Stick with the ratcheting cables. I initially had a smooth one on my carb
heat, and the force of the air just pushed the door back open. I'd pull the
knob out and it would just suck back in.
If your panel is vibrating from the ratchet you may need some sort of extra
support. If you don't have the center console (maybe even if you do) you
should have a brace near the center of the panel, pref. close to the center
of the "action" of your controls, fwd to the firewall. Also once all your
instruments and radios are in, the panel will overall have more mass and be
less likely to vibrate.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Torque of engine mounts |
| From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
This is a respond to the question about engine mount torque for the
conical mounts. I believe the correct specifications are 350 to 450 inch
pounds for the J 6230-1 mounts. I also need help on a engine/propeller
question. What is the recommended positioning of the propeller on the
engine flange? I have a 0-320 with a Sensenich prop. David Ahrens
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Killion <ckillion(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | re: ready to buy some tools |
Scot wrote:
I found a source on the web at a place called Tools Plus
(http://www.tools-plus.com/toolsplus/ )
The prices are significantly better than Home Depot special order but I
was wondering if anybody knows of a cheaper source for Delta.
Scot
They're not Delta brand but look at http://www.toolcenter.com
. Their prices seem too low for me not to mention them to you - or
anyone else power tool shopping.
Clay - RV6
(tool shopping)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Tool Kits |
If you buy the riveter's tape from Office Despot or Staples as the poster
suggested, make sure you get the 3M magic removable tape. It says
"removable" on the label. The regular magic tape is quite a different
product & will leave residue on your job.
Good building,
Phil, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Ritchie Electronic Compas |
Regarding:
<<>>
I am a low time pilot and generally just listen, but this seems to be an
example of not trusting anything that is not "made for airplanes" While I
may be a rookie as a pilot, I've been running boats of one kind or another
for 20 yrs, and NO airplane can bang you around the way a small (20 ft or
less) boat bangs in a confused sea. We're not talking about sustained Gs,
but sharp, impact driven, high peak G load bangs. In addition, the marine
environment is far more harsh from a temperature and humidity standpoint.
If this thing can survive in a boat, it can survive in an airplane. Seems
like a hell of a good item. Just gotta figure out how to get rid of that
blue card.
Humbly,
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | how do I changed my N# |
I think I want to change my N#, I have paid the 10$ and reserved one, but now
I want a different one. Does anyone know the process and address or # to
call.
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I'll bet you get lots of responses. I am using a conventional spray gun
that I bought at Wal*Mart. I have sprayed my steel pieces with Rustoleum,
using both the primer (white) and the top coat (black). I found that I had
to turn the pressure at the regulator way down past 40 pounds and I had to
thin the paint with mineral spirits 1:1 (that is, one part mineral spirits
to one part paint.) Basically I shot the thinned paint against a plywood
sheet and kept turning the air pressure down until I felt I could control
the resulting pattern. This worked just fine for the steel parts, but I
don't think I'll paint the whole airplane this way. I did get runs, but
thought that was OK on the engine mount and other steel bits. It's hard to
paint those tubular structures without getting runs.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF
-----Original Message-----Help!
I'm trying to learn how to use my spray gun!!
What is the normal pressure to operate the gun?
How thin do I thin paint if I have no thinning directions on
the can? Is
primmer and paint thinned the same?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Tool Kits |
pdsmith wrote:
>
> If you buy the riveter's tape from Office Despot or Staples as the poster
> suggested, make sure you get the 3M magic removable tape.
When I built my -4, I had excellent results with Scotch 35 tape it comes
in several different colors. You can use one peice for a whole elevator
side. This is the tape that electricians use for color coding wires.
Carroll Bird --- got medical back to flying now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do I changed my N# |
Rvmils(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I think I want to change my N#, I have paid the 10$ and reserved one, but now
> I want a different one. Does anyone know the process and address or # to
> call.
> Thanks,
> Carey Mills
Try 405-954-4206
Carroll,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
I can't say for sure without seeing the paint, but my guess is that you're
thinning the paint too much. Your best bet is to get yourself a Zahn cup.
It is basically a cup at the end of a long handle and it has a hole in the
bottom of it. You dip it in the paint and then measure the time it takes
for the cup to empty. A time of around 20 seconds should be good for spray
application.
I also use much higher pressure at the gun, but I am using a HVLP gun to
deliver the paint (which requires air volume to do its job). When you paint
the outside of your airplane, your paint manufacturer usually can supply you
with a spec sheet which describes air pressure, gun settings, Zahn number,
etc. for applying their product.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting last part - at the airport in 16 days"
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Help
>
>I'll bet you get lots of responses. I am using a conventional spray gun
>that I bought at Wal*Mart. I have sprayed my steel pieces with Rustoleum,
>using both the primer (white) and the top coat (black). I found that I had
>to turn the pressure at the regulator way down past 40 pounds and I had to
>thin the paint with mineral spirits 1:1 (that is, one part mineral spirits
>to one part paint.) Basically I shot the thinned paint against a plywood
>sheet and kept turning the air pressure down until I felt I could control
>the resulting pattern. This worked just fine for the steel parts, but I
>don't think I'll paint the whole airplane this way. I did get runs, but
>thought that was OK on the engine mount and other steel bits. It's hard to
>paint those tubular structures without getting runs.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vermont
>RV-6A FWF
>
> -----Original Message-----Help!
> I'm trying to learn how to use my spray gun!!
> What is the normal pressure to operate the gun?
> How thin do I thin paint if I have no thinning directions
on
>the can? Is
> primmer and paint thinned the same?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AV8R" <jhth(at)email.msn.com> |
I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was wondering about thread
lubrication, is anything recommended or required?
John Hall
RV-8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was wondering about thread
>lubrication, is anything recommended or required?
No
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
>I also use much higher pressure at the gun, but I am using a HVLP gun
Doesn't the HVLP use less pressure? Is pressure measured while spraying?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Rubber Stamps |
--- PANELCUT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers
>
> I have done a few Rubber Stamps and was woundering if anybody had
> gotten
> their stamps yet. If you have, let everyone know what you think.
I have my stamp and like it. The only problem is size - one can barely
read the "Van's RV-6" part as the font is so small. Perhaps it will
get sharper as I use it and the excess ink is used.
Would be better to forego the N-number option, strike the word "Van's"
and enlarge the model number in that space.
All in all, however, a nice job which will add distinction to our
Christmas cards!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flaps & Aileron Attachments |
Your tips can go on after you finalize your aileron neutral positions. There is
a little fudge factor on mounting the trailing edge of the wing tip so that
allignment of tip & aileron looks nice when in trailing neutral (flying)
position......or at least gets you closer to a more even fit............
vtx(at)ntplx.net on 03/11/2000 02:53:43 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Flaps & Aileron Attachments
Hi all,
Does anyone have an online photo (or 2) of a correctly mounted set of
aileron brackets? (on wing rear-spar?) possibly with the aileron
swinging free attached?
I never realized how many placement considerations have to be made AHEAD
of time when doing this crucial alignment setup, and I rivetted the main
(inboard) aileron bracket on the rear spar before the aileron was
assembled.. uuugh! Used the 56.5" plans measurement, but just now found
out that it should be "fudge factored" on while actually lining up the
aileron.
Scary thing is that it appears to be dead-nuts perfect (by accident!).
Even the flap slipped in, perfect alignment, with 1/4" space, perfect!~
This stuff just don't happen for me, and I'm sure that SOMETHING has to
be wrong. A photo would be very helpful and appreciated..
Thanks much,
RJ in CT~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thread Lube / Sealant |
Is Permatex 2 (non-hardening) the right sealant?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
>
>
>>I also use much higher pressure at the gun, but I am using a HVLP gun
>
>Doesn't the HVLP use less pressure? Is pressure measured while spraying?
>
>hal
Yes and no. The pressure at the tank is set to 70 lbs. When it is measured
at the gun with the trigger held down, the pressure is between 5 and 15 lbs.
I have a regulator in-line and attached to the gun handle where I can adjust
the pressure.
My compressor is a bit undersized for a HVLP unit. But I've been able to
get it to work just fine. I wasn't going to go out and buy a new compressor
just to paint.
This is probably clear as mud by now.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting last part - at the airport in 16 days"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
NO
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "AV8R" <jhth(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 8:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Thread Lube
>
> I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was wondering about thread
> lubrication, is anything recommended or required?
>
> John Hall
> RV-8QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tax payment in Oregon |
Randy and Dick,
I did not do avery good job of explaining my question. It is: Does Oregon
charge a tax of any sort ( pick any name you want) for a flying homebuilt?
Tenn. charges an 8% tax on the value, based on your not having paid sales
tax. There is no Tenn. tax on the airplane otherwise.
I am moving from TN to OR soon and do not want the greedy bastards to get tax
money because they can.
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod ? |
In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered that the AN490 threaded rod
end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are all oversized for the
pushrods. Should I ream out the pushrods, or polish the rod ends, or both?
If reaming the pushrod is correct, what size reamer should I use? My 3/8"
chucking reamer (the largest in Avery's catalog) is too small. Hmm...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings, wings, glorious wings...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tax payment of aircraft |
Check in with AOPA. NJ for example trys to extort money from aircraft owners in
the form of a tax where they rely on the aircraft owners ignorance of the tax
codes. In NJ's case, if I purchased an aircraft from a private owner there is no
tax owed. If I purchased out-of-state no tax is owed. If I purchased from a
licensed seller or broker in the business of selling aircraft then a tax is
owed. NJ sends all new owners a tax bill with no explanation of this fine
detail...just a dollar amount based on the blue book value of the aircraft. Most
all owners of privately purchased aircraft cave-in and remit the tax. Aircraft
registration is a Federal mil-stone. There is no state registration per-say.
Some states may levy a personal property tax, a use tax or whatever. Also try
your local chapter of the EAA....I am sure there is a legal eagle in the local
chapter that can steer you around the tax issue. There is a fine line between
tax avoidance and tax evasion...
ERSF2B(at)aol.com on 03/14/2000 02:08:13 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tax payment in Oregon
Randy and Dick,
I did not do avery good job of explaining my question. It is: Does Oregon
charge a tax of any sort ( pick any name you want) for a flying homebuilt?
Tenn. charges an 8% tax on the value, based on your not having paid sales
tax. There is no Tenn. tax on the airplane otherwise.
I am moving from TN to OR soon and do not want the greedy bastards to get tax
money because they can.
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? (Solved) |
In a message dated 3/14/2000 3:16:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Kbalch1(at)aol.com writes:
> In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered that the AN490 threaded rod
> end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are all oversized for the
> pushrods. Should I ream out the pushrods, or polish the rod ends, or
both?
>
> If reaming the pushrod is correct, what size reamer should I use? My 3/8"
> chucking reamer (the largest in Avery's catalog) is too small. Hmm...
All I needed to do was slightly file the interior lip of the pushrods and
slightly polish/bevel the exterior lip of the rod ends. A few taps with the
'ol persuader and everything went right together.
That's what I get for sitting at my keyboard looking for answers instead of
standing at my workbench solving problems. :-)
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod ? |
Ken,
I had the same problem and discovered it was because I had used a tubing
cutter to cut the tubes to length. If you use a hack saw it will not
reduce the ID during the cutting process. I hope this helps.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, wheel pants
Columbia, SC
In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered that the
AN490 threaded rod
end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are all
oversized for the
pushrods. Should I ream out the pushrods, or polish the
rod ends, or both?
If reaming the pushrod is correct, what size reamer
should I use? My 3/8"
chucking reamer (the largest in Avery's catalog) is too
small. Hmm...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
In a message dated 3/14/2000 4:45:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us writes:
> Ken,
>
> I had the same problem and discovered it was because I had used a tubing
> cutter to cut the tubes to length. If you use a hack saw it will not
> reduce the ID during the cutting process. I hope this helps.
>
> Ken Harrill
> RV-6, wheel pants
> Columbia, SC
Hi Ken,
Thanks for the info. Yes, I used a tubing cutter and suffered the
consequences. :-( I should've just slid them through the band saw. 20/20
hindsight...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
I cleaned mine in a lathe and the id was still slightly too small.
Used a hot air gun to heat the tubing till the ends slipped in. let them
cool down and drilled the holes for the riveting.
Forgot about internal priming so had to pour the primer through the
rivet hole
Gert
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 3/14/2000 4:45:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us writes:
>
> > Ken,
> >
> > I had the same problem and discovered it was because I had used a tubing
> > cutter to cut the tubes to length. If you use a hack saw it will not
> > reduce the ID during the cutting process. I hope this helps.
> >
> > Ken Harrill
> > RV-6, wheel pants
> > Columbia, SC
>
> Hi Ken,
>
> Thanks for the info. Yes, I used a tubing cutter and suffered the
> consequences. :-( I should've just slid them through the band saw. 20/20
> hindsight...
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> wings
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
--- Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered that the AN490
> threaded rod
> end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are all oversized for the
>
> pushrods. Should I ream out the pushrods, or polish the rod ends, or
> both?
Neither.
I just did this a few days ago - cut with a tube cutter and deburred on
the scotchbrite wheel, reamed with standard rivet-hole deburring tool.
They still did not fit into the tube.
Took the opportunity to teach my daughter a little physics.
Put the rod ends into the freezer for a few minutes. Take them out and
quick screw on a nut to protect the threads, whack them into the tube.
Mine slid right in with very little persuasion.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
--- Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered that the AN490
> threaded rod
> end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are all oversized for the
>
> pushrods. Should I ream out the pushrods, or polish the rod ends, or
> both?
Neither.
I just did this a few days ago - cut with a tube cutter and deburred on
the scotchbrite wheel, reamed with standard rivet-hole deburring tool.
They still did not fit into the tube.
Took the opportunity to teach my daughter a little physics.
Put the rod ends into the freezer for a few minutes. Take them out and
quick screw on a nut to protect the threads, whack them into the tube.
Mine slid right in with very little presuasion.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/14/00 8:07:11 AM Central Standard Time,
rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
<< Your best bet is to get yourself a Zahn cup.
It is basically a cup at the end of a long handle and it has a hole in the
bottom of it. You dip it in the paint and then measure the time it takes
for the cup to empty. A time of around 20 seconds should be good for spray
application. >>
There are different size Zahn cups. 20 seconds would be about right for a # 2
Zahn cup. 20 secs in #2 cup equates to 44 seconds in a #1 cup or 14 seconds
in a #4 Ford cup.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A finishing
Cary Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
Hello,
I had the same problem....
1. I deburred and cleaned the ends of the rods to eliminate any 'lip' from
the cutting process. Then I poured primer down the inside...which further
narrows the diameter of the rod hole. The threaded rod ends wouldn't fit
so back to the list for advice.
2. I read on the list of others heating the rod ends, but for whatever
reason, it did not work for me. Rod got real hot looking, I burned myself,
and I stunk up the place but it didn't work. I am not a welder...main
reason I bought the RV8.
So....
3. I used my portable drill as a lathe and held the counter rotating
oversized part of the threaded rod end against the spinning scotch brite
wheel for rough "sizing". Gentle and slow! careful with the threads in
the drill...check to see if the rod end will screw into something else that
will fit into the chuck of the drill. I think I used the AVERY deburring
tool extension but can't remember for sure.
4. Using various grades of scotch brite (green, red, and gray) pads, I
final sanded to fit (the piece still rotating in the portable drill)
5. The down sizing was uniform as I was always working with the rod end
spinning in the portable drill.
Spent roughly 10 minutes per rod end
The fit was still tight. I used the rivet attach method...again, I am not
a welder.
I thought about reaming each rods but decided against it as I didn't want
to compromise its strength and I wasn't mentioned in the plans.
Oh, I used this same method on the bushings for the bell crank assembly.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Tank #2 about done
At 3/14/00 , you wrote:
>
>In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered that the AN490 threaded rod
>end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are all oversized for the
>pushrods. Should I ream out the pushrods, or polish the rod ends, or both?
.......snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I cannot find anything that might be a VA131-D filter retainer in my FAB 360
kit. The parts list calls out one item and figure 5, p4, shows 6 of them
disposed in an oval pattern and attached to platenuts. The filter is round
so this is quite confusing! The archives refer to aluminum angles but I
don't see any in my parts. I have four metal locking tabs, or at least that
is what I think they are.
In George's video he refers to a circular plate that holds the filter up --
that seems like a superior design but is not a part of my FAB 360.
The filter does not seem to want to sit flat against the bottom of the
fiberglass VA131A airbox either, so even if I could find some retainers to
retain the filter, it seems that it would leak mightily at the bottom.
1) Does anyone show these details on their website? I have Sam's photos,
but they just show the filter magically suspended from the carb plate --
maybe if I had some retainers mine would do that too!
2) What does a VA131-D filter retainer look like and how many should I have?
3) What about the poor seal at the bottom?
4) Help!
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit -- I was doing so well, too, before the FAB!
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A FAB 360 |
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: RV6A FAB 360
>Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:38:41 -0600
>
>
>I cannot find anything that might be a VA131-D filter retainer in my FAB
>360
>kit. The parts list calls out one item and figure 5, p4, shows 6 of them
>disposed in an oval pattern and attached to platenuts. The filter is round
>so this is quite confusing! The archives refer to aluminum angles but I
>don't see any in my parts. I have four metal locking tabs, or at least
>that
>is what I think they are.
>In George's video he refers to a circular plate that holds the filter up --
>that seems like a superior design but is not a part of my FAB 360.
>The filter does not seem to want to sit flat against the bottom of the
>fiberglass VA131A airbox either, so even if I could find some retainers to
>retain the filter, it seems that it would leak mightily at the bottom.
>1) Does anyone show these details on their website? I have Sam's photos,
>but they just show the filter magically suspended from the carb plate --
>maybe if I had some retainers mine would do that too!
>2) What does a VA131-D filter retainer look like and how many should I
>have?
>3) What about the poor seal at the bottom?
>4) Help!
>
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit -- I was doing so well, too, before the FAB!
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
Dennis,
I made the retainer clips from small pieces of skin stiffener angle. I think
it's 3/4" x 3/4" stuff. I just riveted them on in the locations shown on the
plans and they hold the filter snugly in place up against the plate.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tach Cable Length |
Being a fan of things mechanical, I have a mechanical tachometer. Now I need
a cable to go with it. I've measured 28" from the "face" of the takeoff on
the engine to the face of the fitting on the back of the tach. Fine so far.
BUT, these cables are sold on length from tip of ferrule to tip of ferrule.
I assume this ferrule thing is the threaded fitting which screws onto the
engine or tach. Sadly, I don't have any idea how far the ferrule overlaps the
threaded fittings on the engine or tach, so I'm stumped.
Help please...
By the way, I think this is absolutely the LAST part I need to buy. My
checking account says this BETTER be the last part I buy, unless I want an
unhappy mortgage company.
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6A FAB 360 |
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
See my answers below for some of your questions. I will add that after a
few hundred hours, I epoxied in a bottom plate for the filter to seal
against. It helps with the seal but mainly it keeps the fiberglass bottom
of the FAB from being sanded away to nothing. I used .063. P S don't
forget to put two drain holes in the bottom of this baby!
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
>>I cannot find anything that might be a VA131-D filter retainer in my FAB
>>360
>>kit. The parts list calls out one item and figure 5, p4, shows 6 of them
>>disposed in an oval pattern and attached to platenuts. The filter is round
>>so this is quite confusing! The archives refer to aluminum angles but I
>>don't see any in my parts. I have four metal locking tabs, or at least
>>that
>>is what I think they are.
The tabs are for retaining the top plate's bolts to the carb bell bottom;
however I would recommend using some drilled bolts and safety wire, which is
easier to get right.
>>In George's video he refers to a circular plate that holds the filter up --
In my geo orndorff video he was showing the plate on a O-320 FAB which does
have such a plate, since the banjo box is deeper than the filter element on
the 320.
>>that seems like a superior design but is not a part of my FAB 360.
>>The filter does not seem to want to sit flat against the bottom of the
>>fiberglass VA131A airbox either, so even if I could find some retainers to
>>retain the filter, it seems that it would leak mightily at the bottom.
The secret is to locate the top section before you rivet it, so the filter
is shooshed down tightly against the bottom of the fiberglass box.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
I see you've already gotten a couple of "no" answers John but just thought
I'd tell ya that I used Fuel Lube on my aluminum fittings. I've got no
leaks but couldn't say if I'd have any without it.
Bill Pagan
RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was wondering about thread
>lubrication, is anything recommended or required?
>
>John Hall
>RV-8QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
In a message dated 3/14/2000 6:20:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gert(at)execpc.com writes:
> I cleaned mine in a lathe and the id was still slightly too small.
>
> Used a hot air gun to heat the tubing till the ends slipped in. let them
> cool down and drilled the holes for the riveting.
>
> Forgot about internal priming so had to pour the primer through the
> rivet hole
>
> Gert
Good idea about heating the tube (or cooling the rod ends) to facilitate
slipping the one into the other. That'll teach me to forget my basic physics.
It sounds like you did what I planned to do: mate the rod ends into the
tubes, then drill for the rivets. However, when I drilled my first hole, the
drill bit twisted (not snapped) off as soon as it bit into the rod end. In
other words, it went nicely through the tube and choked as soon as it
encountered the rod end. I was doing this on a drill press set for 2950 RPM.
This has worked fine for everything I've had to drill so far. Do I need to
lower the speed on the press?
I still don't know how I'm going to extract the piece of the bit caught in
the hole, since it twisted off flush with the tube. I can't get a needlenose
on it at all. I guess I'll sleep on it and see what comes to me.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Transpo voltage regulator |
Hello Listers;
Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my existing one and it has
on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind you see in electronic
devices that you are supposed to use a fiber screwdriver on. What is it
for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts and the radio failed
and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need of adjustment if
that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock it with nail polish
from Victoria's Secret!!!
Thanks in advance for any insight.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
John that pot in the back is exactly that. To bring
your voltage in phase, you need to have the alt/gen
running as on a test bench and using your multimeter
bring it in to adjustment and secure with varnish or
nail polish
Glenn
--- John Kitz wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers;
> Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my
> existing one and it has
> on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind
> you see in electronic
> devices that you are supposed to use a fiber
> screwdriver on. What is it
> for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts
> and the radio failed
> and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need
> of adjustment if
> that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock
> it with nail polish
> from Victoria's Secret!!!
> Thanks in advance for any insight.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HVLP pressure |
<>
Your Sharp HVLP gun seems to work differently than mine. I have found the
pressure setting is critical when applying base or clear to a vertical
surface. I am using a Sharp SGF98 HVLP with a 1.5 tip -- the manual says
50 psi at the gun gives the 10 psi at the tip that is specified for the AKZO
Sikkens base and clear which I am using. Switching from 60 to 50 made a big
difference. This is at the gun with the trigger pulled. To get fifty at the
gun regulator requires 85-90 psi at the input end of my 25 ft long diameter
inch hose.
I have painted 4 or 5 autos with a regular gun. HVLP has been a learning
experience for me, especially holding the gun 4-6 inches from the surface.
Unfortunately the experience was gained on the flaps. When I told the wife
of my required rework her comment was -- "Why didn't you practice on some
other surface? You wouldn't let me touch the rivet gun until I had worked on
some scrap metal." I told her -- "I am an experience painter why would I
practice."
Question for the list --
Should the slider rail mounted to top of the turtle deck be painted? I want
to do this if the paint will stay but if it wears I will just polish the
aluminum.
Ken
Burnsville, MN
N94KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
OIL ANALYSIS: Howard Fenton, Engine Oil Analysis, 7820 South 70th East
Avenue, Tulsa, Ok 74133, 918-492-5844, HFentonTUL(at)aol.com (or
compuserve.com).
RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com wrote:
> As others have indicated the stuff on the spark plugs is most likely
> lead/carbon, and a combination of TCP and leaning should deal with this
> nicely. I wanted to encourage you however to get on an oil analysis program.
> If the motor is starting to self-destruct internally you want to know about
> it before you have to dead stick it in again (even though you are an ace at
> it!). There are several known labs around that you could go with. My choice
> would be (will be, and was when I owned my Cessna) Howard Fenton. I forget
> the company's name right now, I think it's simply "Oil Analysis" and he's in
> Oklahoma. Perhaps someone else on the list can provide his contact
> information. He has developed quite a reputation with the Cessna Pilots
> Association and other aviation groups.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, pl<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
my rod ends when inserted went right in I just tapped
them in with a rubber mallet no problem
Glenn
--- Mike Thompson wrote:
>
>
> --- Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered
> that the AN490
> > threaded rod
> > end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are
> all oversized for the
> >
> > pushrods. Should I ream out the pushrods, or
> polish the rod ends, or
> > both?
>
>
> Neither.
>
> I just did this a few days ago - cut with a tube
> cutter and deburred on
> the scotchbrite wheel, reamed with standard
> rivet-hole deburring tool.
> They still did not fit into the tube.
>
> Took the opportunity to teach my daughter a little
> physics.
> Put the rod ends into the freezer for a few minutes.
> Take them out and
> quick screw on a nut to protect the threads, whack
> them into the tube.
>
> Mine slid right in with very little persuasion.
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Wings
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP pressure |
In a message dated 3/14/00 10:32:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, Kbeene(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Question for the list --
Should the slider rail mounted to top of the turtle deck be painted? I
want
to do this if the paint will stay but if it wears I will just polish the
aluminum.
Ken >>
Ken,
I'm sure there is someone out there who has painted one, but most of the ones
I see are in natural aluminum. (Including the one on the RV-6 that won grand
champion at Oshkosh last summer.).
Kyle Boatright
N46KB (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/14/00 7:06:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jhth(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was wondering about thread
lubrication, is anything recommended or required? >>
I realize that everyone else is saying NO, but I never did go along with the
crowd.
Anytime you are using the blue anodized aluminum AN fittings it is good
practice to use a lubricant IMO. If you assemble them dry the fittings can
gall during tightening and ultimately cold weld themselves together, making
future repairs more difficult (stainless steel fittings will also do this).
I use seal lube, but any light grease or antiseize compound is good to
prevent galling.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crud in spark plugs |
Brian you have to remember that the engine is also new
or overhauled and it is normal to see thing in the oil
and plugs you will not see after initial break in. I
would recommend you get on an oil analysis program so
they can initiate a trend analysis for your engine and
clean your plugs and use tcp and lean for best
efficiency also before you shut down for the day
perhaps do a leaning run on the ground
Glenn
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm doing some firewall forward inspections and
> maintenance on my
> O-360 after 60 hours of more flying fun than words
> can describe.
>
> I decided to pull the plugs and rotate them to
> hopefully prolong their
> lives. I found some deeply impacted bits of hard
> crud in a few of the plugs
> that looked like metal. Ack! The little chunks are
> about the size of a
> broken pencil lead, look almost like little stones
> or bits of crystallized
> metal. They are NOT magnetic. They crumble with
> screwdriver blade pressure
> in the palm of my hand. I read in John Schwaner's
> "Skyranch Engineering
> manual" that these bits of debris that are brittle
> like this are most likely
> fused carbon deposits. He suggests placing the
> debris on a hard surface and
> smacking them with a hammer. Metal will deform to
> some extent whereas carbon
> will shatter. I would think this test might be
> highly dependent on how much
> hammer force is applied so I'm not sure how valid
> this approach is.
>
> Compressions on all cylinders are very good, in the
> middle to low 70's, oil
> consumption is about a quart in 8 hours, and the
> plugs themselves show a
> nice, even tan coloration with no signs of oil or
> any globules of lead. I've been running on the
> smooth side of max lean at
> all altitudes above 5,000' density, and using Marvel
> mystery oil in the
> fuel. The engine has about 400 hours on it SMOH and
> is running great in all
> other regards.
>
> My main question is this: have other RV'ers found
> this kind of crud in their
> plugs at any time? I do plan to change the oil and
> inspect the filter in a
> few days. If I find the same kind of chunks in the
> filter media, I reckon
> I've got a serious problem brewing. If not, and the
> stuff is only found in
> the plugs, then....well...who knows?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
When you put the paint on, don't pay any attention to how well it covers. Look
at the reflection of the lights off the surface and just get it to look "wet".
Then let it tack up and do it again. If you try to get it to cover in 1 or 2
coats, it will run.
Remember the saying " If you think that one more pass will cover it STOP!"
Of course how easily the paint runs depends on the kind of paint you're using
and each kind (brand) will handle differently. Also, many paints do not need
thinning.
I use 25-30 lbs for solid colors and 35-40 lbs for metalics, using a regular
gun.
I had a professional painter ($10,000 show car jobs) tell me that he uses the
HVLP gun when he wants to duplicate the factory "orange peel".
Dave
Bart Stone wrote:
>
> Help!
> I'm trying to learn how to use my spray gun!!
> What is the normal pressure to operate the gun?
> How thin do I thin paint if I have no thinning directions on the can? Is
> primmer and paint thinned the same?
> An old timer told me to thin so that there is only a 2 second run of paint
> off a stirring stick until it turned to a drip. I tried this and paint
> seems to be too thin, it just runs off the metal. It is not a run like to
> much paint in one spot, but like the paint runs off in sheets.
>
> My Setup:
> Sears gun @40 psi w/ dryer
> Sears 5hp compressor
> S&W epoxy primmer(spray can) -- wet sanded
> RustOleum Paint (steel parts--testing)
>
> Thanks
> Bart
> RV-6a 609PS Reserved
> bart(at)smipc.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
here is what I do. if you are using 5606 "brake fluid"
lubricate the threads with it. Do no use any other
type of lube as this can and will contaminate your
system and can lead to rubber packing failure in your
brake system, also the aircraft style fittings "AN or
MS" are made to a standard that they do not require or
need prelube of the threads. the most common problem I
see in the field is mechanics that over tighten the
fitting and crack the fluted end or nut which causes
the leak. the mating ends are made to seal when
correctly tightened.
Glenn
--- Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/14/00 7:06:28 AM Pacific
> Standard Time,
> jhth(at)email.msn.com writes:
>
> << I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was
> wondering about thread
> lubrication, is anything recommended or required?
> >>
>
> I realize that everyone else is saying NO, but I
> never did go along with the
> crowd.
>
> Anytime you are using the blue anodized aluminum AN
> fittings it is good
> practice to use a lubricant IMO. If you assemble
> them dry the fittings can
> gall during tightening and ultimately cold weld
> themselves together, making
> future repairs more difficult (stainless steel
> fittings will also do this).
> I use seal lube, but any light grease or antiseize
> compound is good to
> prevent galling.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I will be in the Daytona Beach area March 25 through April 2 and would be
interested in viewing/ talking about someone's RV6 project in progress or
flying. Thanks in advance,
Dave Ford
RV6 wings, ordering fuse.
dford(at)michweb.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Can anyone tell me what size fuse/breaker should be used with the
Sky-Tec starter. I'm using the solenoid on the starter only. It trips
the 5A breaker after about 3-4 seconds of cranking. The info that came
with the starter doesn't address this.
Thanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
John Kitz wrote:
>
>
> devices that you are supposed to use a fiber screwdriver on. What is it
> for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts and the radio failed
> and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need of adjustment if
> that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock it with nail polish
> from Victoria's Secret!!!
> Thanks in advance for any insight.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
>
OK, I'm really sorry, but I can't resist.
Is the stuff from K-Mart just not aircraft quality?
Now, to give this post some redeeming construction value: If your
voltage only went to 15 volts, it's unlikely that's what killed the
radio. Odds are, either the regulator was passing spikes much higher
than that, or the failure was just a coincidence.
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod ? |
They're not oversized as such but a tight fit. If you've primed your rods
you've taken up any play. I used a plastic mallet to tap (well, OK it was
more like rap) the ends in. I then welded the rod ends to the pipe.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: glenn williams
> Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 10:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Pushrod ?
>
>
> my rod ends when inserted went right in I just tapped
> them in with a rubber mallet no problem
>
> Glenn
>
> --- Mike Thompson wrote:
> >
> >
> > --- Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered
> > that the AN490
> > > threaded rod
> > > end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are
> > all oversized for the
> > >
> > > pushrods. Should I ream out the pushrods, or
> > polish the rod ends, or
> > > both?
> >
> >
> > Neither.
> >
> > I just did this a few days ago - cut with a tube
> > cutter and deburred on
> > the scotchbrite wheel, reamed with standard
> > rivet-hole deburring tool.
> > They still did not fit into the tube.
> >
> > Took the opportunity to teach my daughter a little
> > physics.
> > Put the rod ends into the freezer for a few minutes.
> > Take them out and
> > quick screw on a nut to protect the threads, whack
> > them into the tube.
> >
> > Mine slid right in with very little persuasion.
> >
> > Mike Thompson
> > Austin, TX
> > -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> > Wings
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberlas questikon |
Fellow Listers,
Is it necessary to sand or grind off all the gelcoat on Van's polyester
fiberglas pieces to bond items like the wheel pant brake covers and the carb
air box inlet (O-360)?
Doug
RV-4 finishing
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberlas questikon |
Nope. Just rough it up real good with some 80 grit, and wipe down with
acetone, and the glass will stick very well.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberlas questikon |
> Nope. Just rough it up real good with some 80 grit, and wipe down with
> acetone, and the glass will stick very well.
On the other hand, gel-coat tends to form hairline cracks around inside
corners, particularly the front cowl inlet area where there's a lot of
vibration. For this reason some people just sand it down to the glass in
those areas.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do I changed my N# |
> I think I want to change my N#, I have paid the 10$ and reserved one, but
now
> I want a different one. Does anyone know the process and address or # to
> call.
If you've only reserved it you don't need to do anything except reserve a
different one and/or apply for a registration for the new one not the old.
The reservation will lapse once a year goes by. It only gets complicated if
you've already registered.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
If any RV3 drivers are interested in meeting at Sun & Fun
contact me off list.
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM
Do not archiev
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberlas questikon |
Yes - the best bond will be with polyester resin after you have sanded off
the gel coat and then wiped down the sanded parts with acetone. A three inch
sanding disc on a angle die grinder makes very short work of the gel coat.
Be sure to wear a respirator to keep that dust out of your system.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray
Southern Alberta
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 10:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberlas questikon
>
>Fellow Listers,
>
>Is it necessary to sand or grind off all the gelcoat on Van's polyester
>fiberglas pieces to bond items like the wheel pant brake covers and the
carb
>air box inlet (O-360)?
>
>Doug
>RV-4 finishing
>
>===========
>Doug Weiler
>Hudson, WI
>715-386-1239
>dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tax payment in Oregon |
> I did not do avery good job of explaining my question. It is: Does Oregon
> charge a tax of any sort ( pick any name you want) for a flying homebuilt?
No there is no sales tax or property tax on homebuilts (or certified), parts
or flying, in OR. Pilots pay a registration fee every two years, that's
about it. Something like $20. Fuel taxes are the only other -- don't know
what that is but prices including tax are running anywhere from $1.85-2.20
including tax these days.
Nice not having a sales tax but we do pay em on property tax and income tax.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | Transpo voltage regulator |
John,
Aircraft radios are usually designed to handle +9-+18Volts. My Comanche
regularly runs +14.6 volts with occasional excursions to +14.8 and the
radios are happy. It sounds like a coincidence. What you don't want is to
boil away the electrolyte. Set the voltage for about +14.5 and you should
have a happy electrical system.
Regards,
Bob
> ----------
> From: John Kitz
> Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 12:40 AM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Transpo voltage regulator
>
>
> Hello Listers;
> Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my existing one and it has
> on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind you see in electronic
> devices that you are supposed to use a fiber screwdriver on. What is it
> for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts and the radio failed
> and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need of adjustment if
> that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock it with nail polish
> from Victoria's Secret!!!
> Thanks in advance for any insight.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
Nail polish is sometimes acetone based & maybe to "hot" for the potting compound
and/or the plastic mini-screw pot (potentiometer)...might melt something. Try
contact cement or a rtv. Also ,is the reason the radio blew over
voltage.??..there may be another culpret in the electrical system that caused
the voltage to spike, normally the mini-screw dosen't back out because there is
so little mass (weight) to the little screw.........Check with elect. Bob.......
willig10(at)yahoo.com on 03/14/2000 10:13:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transpo voltage regulator
John that pot in the back is exactly that. To bring
your voltage in phase, you need to have the alt/gen
running as on a test bench and using your multimeter
bring it in to adjustment and secure with varnish or
nail polish
Glenn
--- John Kitz wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers;
> Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my
> existing one and it has
> on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind
> you see in electronic
> devices that you are supposed to use a fiber
> screwdriver on. What is it
> for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts
> and the radio failed
> and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need
> of adjustment if
> that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock
> it with nail polish
> from Victoria's Secret!!!
> Thanks in advance for any insight.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A FAB 360 |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>... cannot find anything that might be a VA131-D filter retainer in my FAB 360
kit.
> 2) What does a VA131-D filter retainer look like and how many should I have?
There are 6, 3/4 X 3/8 x 1 long. Just use 3/4 x 3/4 unless you want to
save weight. They help hold the filter in the oval shape as it fits into
the oval hole in VA-131B and up against VA-131C.
They are fitted between the nut plates and VA-131B.
> 3) What about the poor seal at the bottom?
The seal at the bottom is effected (or affected) by a 1/16 inch
compression of the filter. See step 3, AirBox Assembly, page 4. I cut
two block 1/16 shorted than the height of the filter and placed them in
bottom of the VA-131A. I set the assembled VA-131B/C (bolted not
clecoed) on top of the blocks INSURING that the blocks touched only the
VA-131C. I then clamped and drilled the VA-131B to the VA-131A.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, Still using the detail plans for
"guidance"!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
Be sure the electrical jumpers on the starter are set so that you are picking
the starter relay only-and not the starter (proper.) & relay. The jumpers/studs
on mine from the manufacture were set like this. I don't think you fuse the
starter (proper)..that big #2 or #4 wire should not be fused. The inrush
current is upwards of 400 amps or so.........verify your wiring diagram and wire
bundles for proper hook-ups.
bj034(at)lafn.org on 03/14/2000 11:08:20 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Starter
Can anyone tell me what size fuse/breaker should be used with the
Sky-Tec starter. I'm using the solenoid on the starter only. It trips
the 5A breaker after about 3-4 seconds of cranking. The info that came
with the starter doesn't address this.
Thanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberlas questikon |
Yes, I had much beter results grinding off the gel coat. Abrasive disks that
feel like asphalt take the gel-coat off in 2 seconds......no kidding. Wipe with
acetone to remove dust,oil, whatever-- prior to next layup. Heat lamps help
....30 minutes to bring the item up to 90 degrees before fiberglass lay-up
seem to help in the bonding process.......(heat lamps to warm for theFiberglass
bonding/layup process NOT gel-coat stripping)
dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net on 03/15/2000 12:31:39 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberlas questikon
Yes - the best bond will be with polyester resin after you have sanded off
the gel coat and then wiped down the sanded parts with acetone. A three inch
sanding disc on a angle die grinder makes very short work of the gel coat.
Be sure to wear a respirator to keep that dust out of your system.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray
Southern Alberta
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 10:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberlas questikon
>
>Fellow Listers,
>
>Is it necessary to sand or grind off all the gelcoat on Van's polyester
>fiberglas pieces to bond items like the wheel pant brake covers and the
carb
>air box inlet (O-360)?
>
>Doug
>RV-4 finishing
>
>===========
>Doug Weiler
>Hudson, WI
>715-386-1239
>dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
Fellows - Am I supposed to seal the pot screw? Vans tells us to mount the
regulatoron the backside of the firewall and then to drill a small hole
through the firewall so the screw is accessable to adjust the voltage. The
access hole in the firewall has a bit of sealant over it when the voltage is
set but Van didn't mention sealling the screw also - did he?
Thanks for your response.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 working on electrical goodies
Southern Alberta
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transpo voltage regulator
>
>Nail polish is sometimes acetone based & maybe to "hot" for the potting
compound
>and/or the plastic mini-screw pot (potentiometer)...might melt something.
Try
>contact cement or a rtv. Also ,is the reason the radio blew over
>voltage.??..there may be another culpret in the electrical system that
caused
>the voltage to spike, normally the mini-screw dosen't back out because
there is
>so little mass (weight) to the little screw.........Check with elect.
Bob.......
>John that pot in the back is exactly that. To bring
>your voltage in phase, you need to have the alt/gen
>running as on a test bench and using your multimeter
>bring it in to adjustment and secure with varnish or
>nail polish
>
>Glenn
>
>--- John Kitz wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hello Listers;
>> Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my
>> existing one and it has
>> on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind
>> you see in electronic
>> devices that you are supposed to use a fiber
>> screwdriver on. What is it
>> for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts
>> and the radio failed
>> and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need
>> of adjustment if
>> that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock
>> it with nail polish
>> from Victoria's Secret!!!
>> Thanks in advance for any insight.
>> John Kitz
>> N721JK
>> Ohio
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Can anyone tell me what size fuse/breaker should be used with the
>Sky-Tec starter. I'm using the solenoid on the starter only. It trips
>the 5A breaker after about 3-4 seconds of cranking. The info that came
>with the starter doesn't address this.
>Thanks, Dave
The solenoid terminal on starters have an inrush current of its
own plus the possiblity for an extraordinary value of holding
current. It's explained in .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
This is why we generally recommend an outboard contactor
for starter control. Try upsizing to at 10A breaker
and 16AWG interconnect wire. Be sure to add a catch diode
across your starter pushbutton or switch as shown in our
wiring diagrams . . . poppa bear sized solenoids eat
starter switches for breakfast.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
>>Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my
>> existing one and it has
>> on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind
>> you see in electronic
>> devices that you are supposed to use a fiber
>> screwdriver on. What is it
>> for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts
>> and the radio failed
>> and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need
>> of adjustment if
>> that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock
>> it with nail polish
If the bus voltage went up gradually, I suspect
your battery was discharged and accepting all of
the alternator's output. As the battery became charged,
the voltage started to climb. When you see this event
start, you need to shut the system down before the
voltage gets above 15 volts . . . although I'm surprised
that radio failed at this low level . . . modern radios
should take 20 volts for 1 second and lower voltages
for much longer. What kind of voltmeter do you have
and can you attest to it's accuracy? Do you have
ov protection of any kind in the system? Our OVM-14
crowbar module will trip the alternator off line between
16 and 16.5 volts . . . the trip range for tens of
thousands of certified ships. If your radio smoked
at some indicated voltage below this value then I suspect a
badly calibrated voltmeter.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
On a flare fitting, the seal is made at the flare-not in the threads-so
sealing the threads won't do anything.
Dave
AV8R wrote:
>
> I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was wondering about thread
> lubrication, is anything recommended or required?
>
> John Hall
> RV-8QB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Fuel lube, YES great stuff and allows less galling on aluminum. HOWEVER
use on pipe threads only. DO NOT use on flared fittings, especially on fuel
lines.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
----------
>From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Thread Lube
>Date: Tue, Mar 14, 2000, 18:53
>
>
>I see you've already gotten a couple of "no" answers John but just thought
>I'd tell ya that I used Fuel Lube on my aluminum fittings. I've got no
>leaks but couldn't say if I'd have any without it.
>
>Bill Pagan
>RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
>>
>>I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was wondering about thread
>>lubrication, is anything recommended or required?
>>
>>John Hall
>>RV-8QB
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Transpo voltage regulator |
>Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my existing one and it has
>on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind you see in electronic
>devices that you are supposed to use a fiber screwdriver on. What is it
>for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts and the radio failed
>and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need of adjustment if
>that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock it with nail polish
>from Victoria's Secret!!!
A post script to earlier post . . . the "sealant" you
see on many adjustments in aviation are inspection
seals . . . they goop the screw after some official
adjustment has taken place to show later tampering.
It's unnecessary to goop a screw to prevent drift
of the adjustment.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
I personally would not "seal" the screw I would put
witness or torque seal on the screw after you have
brought your voltage in phase. That way you can see if
it has moved
Glenn
--- dgmurray wrote:
>
>
> Fellows - Am I supposed to seal the pot screw? Vans
> tells us to mount the
> regulatoron the backside of the firewall and then to
> drill a small hole
> through the firewall so the screw is accessable to
> adjust the voltage. The
> access hole in the firewall has a bit of sealant
> over it when the voltage is
> set but Van didn't mention sealling the screw also -
> did he?
>
> Thanks for your response.
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> Doug Murray RV-6 working on electrical goodies
> Southern Alberta
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Transpo voltage regulator
>
>
> >
> >Nail polish is sometimes acetone based & maybe to
> "hot" for the potting
> compound
> >and/or the plastic mini-screw pot
> (potentiometer)...might melt something.
> Try
> >contact cement or a rtv. Also ,is the reason the
> radio blew over
> >voltage.??..there may be another culpret in the
> electrical system that
> caused
> >the voltage to spike, normally the mini-screw
> dosen't back out because
> there is
> >so little mass (weight) to the little
> screw.........Check with elect.
> Bob.......
> >John that pot in the back is exactly that. To bring
> >your voltage in phase, you need to have the alt/gen
> >running as on a test bench and using your
> multimeter
> >bring it in to adjustment and secure with varnish
> or
> >nail polish
> >
> >Glenn
> >
> >--- John Kitz wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Hello Listers;
> >> Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my
> >> existing one and it has
> >> on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind
> >> you see in electronic
> >> devices that you are supposed to use a fiber
> >> screwdriver on. What is it
> >> for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts
> >> and the radio failed
> >> and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in
> need
> >> of adjustment if
> >> that is what that is. Either way I am going to
> lock
> >> it with nail polish
> >> from Victoria's Secret!!!
> >> Thanks in advance for any insight.
> >> John Kitz
> >> N721JK
> >> Ohio
> >>
> >>
> >> through
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >>
> >> Matronics!
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
The Fittings on my 1948 Bellanca are still dry, still seal, still remove at
annual. NO Galling!!!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "glenn williams" <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thread Lube
>
> here is what I do. if you are using 5606 "brake fluid"
> lubricate the threads with it. Do no use any other
> type of lube as this can and will contaminate your
> system and can lead to rubber packing failure in your
> brake system, also the aircraft style fittings "AN or
> MS" are made to a standard that they do not require or
> need prelube of the threads. the most common problem I
> see in the field is mechanics that over tighten the
> fitting and crack the fluted end or nut which causes
> the leak. the mating ends are made to seal when
> correctly tightened.
>
> Glenn
>
> --- Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 3/14/00 7:06:28 AM Pacific
> > Standard Time,
> > jhth(at)email.msn.com writes:
> >
> > << I'm about to start on brake line fittings and was
> > wondering about thread
> > lubrication, is anything recommended or required?
> > >>
> >
> > I realize that everyone else is saying NO, but I
> > never did go along with the
> > crowd.
> >
> > Anytime you are using the blue anodized aluminum AN
> > fittings it is good
> > practice to use a lubricant IMO. If you assemble
> > them dry the fittings can
> > gall during tightening and ultimately cold weld
> > themselves together, making
> > future repairs more difficult (stainless steel
> > fittings will also do this).
> > I use seal lube, but any light grease or antiseize
> > compound is good to
> > prevent galling.
> >
> > -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> > vanremog(at)aol.com
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
If you intend to use Navaid do you order from Van's the manual or electric
aileron kit?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/15/00 9:45:55 AM Central Standard Time,
luckymacy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< If you intend to use Navaid do you order from Van's the manual or electric
aileron kit? >>
You can use either one. The Navaid should not be used to "trim" the airplane.
You still have to do that as if you had no electronic wing leveler/auto pilot.
Dale Ensing
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Dennis,
I feel your pain!!! I thought the instructions for the FAB were very
inadequate. I ended up having to buy a new top plate. The filter
retainers are cut from a six inch piece of angle included in the kit.
The filter is forced by the retainers into the oval shape. To get the
filter to seal put washers between the top plate and the mounting plate
before drilling the fiberglass box to the top plate. When you remove
the washers, the top plate will compress the filter and seal it. Also,
be careful to position the top plate so the filter will miss the
protrusion on the bottom of the carb before drilling the top plate to
the mounting plate.
I hope this helps. After finishing the canopy I thought I could do
anything, then the FAB comes along and humbles this poor builder.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, wheel pants
Columbia, SC
I cannot find anything that might be a VA131-D filter
retainer in my FAB 360
kit. The parts list calls out one item and figure 5,
p4, shows 6 of them
disposed in an oval pattern and attached to platenuts.
The filter is round
so this is quite confusing! The archives refer to
aluminum angles but I
don't see any in my parts. I have four metal locking
tabs, or at least that
is what I think they are.
In George's video he refers to a circular plate that
holds the filter up --
that seems like a superior design but is not a part of
my FAB 360.
The filter does not seem to want to sit flat against the
bottom of the
fiberglass VA131A airbox either, so even if I could find
some retainers to
retain the filter, it seems that it would leak mightily
at the bottom.
1) Does anyone show these details on their website? I
have Sam's photos,
but they just show the filter magically suspended from
the carb plate --
maybe if I had some retainers mine would do that too!
2) What does a VA131-D filter retainer look like and how
many should I have?
3) What about the poor seal at the bottom?
4) Help!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tax payment in Oregon |
That's what I am looking for, the hidden fees. I do not think that a State
can require a pilot license fee. This was trie in the state of Maryland a
ways back and was thrown out of court. The license fee for the aircraft is
different. I would like to see a web page that would give all the
homebuilders a look at the extra fee/tax that will be coming. This could be
as much as $3000.
The state of TN receives information from the FAA, then TN sends you a bill.
This bill is the sales tax for all the pieces ( you provide info) that were
purchased out of state. Sales tax in TN runs about 8%. There is no other
fee-tax on airplane or pilot.
Ed Storo RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
Vans has a manual spring bias trim unit & Aero-Trim and Mac are the elect.
versions of trim. The NAVAID mentioned is a auto-pilot/tracker of sorts that
allows you to track a vor/gps signal. The two concepts are different & often
times confused.
luckymacy(at)hotmail.com on 03/15/2000 10:44:28 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Navaid
If you intend to use Navaid do you order from Van's the manual or electric
aileron kit?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
In a message dated 3/14/00 1:23:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, Kbalch1(at)aol.com
writes:
<< In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered that the AN490 threaded rod
end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are all oversized for the
pushrods. >>
I solved (?) the problem by dunking the AN490s in a cup of ice cubes until
well chilled and heating the pushrods with my propane torch (not red hot but
much to hot to touch with your bare hands). Three of the rod ends slid right
into the pushrods and one required a couple of firm whacks with my plastic
mallet to fully seat it. The secret is to work fast while you have the
greatest temperature difference between the aluminum rod ends and the steel
pushrods. My biggest concern with this was not getting the rod ends fully
seated before the temperature equalized because once it does neither part is
going to move. Do one end at a time and wear heavy leather gloves.
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello, I'm not confused about the difference between the electric and manual
trim at all when they are installed without Navaid. Just don't know how
Navaid ties in with them, if at all.
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid
>Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:36:39 -0500
>
>
>Vans has a manual spring bias trim unit & Aero-Trim and Mac are the elect.
>versions of trim. The NAVAID mentioned is a auto-pilot/tracker of sorts
>that
>allows you to track a vor/gps signal. The two concepts are different &
>often
>times confused.
>
>
>luckymacy(at)hotmail.com on 03/15/2000 10:44:28 AM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: RV-List: Navaid
>
>
>If you intend to use Navaid do you order from Van's the manual or electric
>aileron kit?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Safteying Hose Ends |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
Is there a way to safety the hose ends on say an oil cooler line?
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Lucky,
I wondered the same thing a while back and here's my two cents on the
subject:
With the spring-bias trim, there is spring tension on one spring or the
other, obviously on the side you want to put down trim on. I don't think
these forces are really that significant, but the Navaid will have to oppose
this additional force in the opposite direction, thus requiring more torque
to overcome the additional resistance.
With the electric trim, the only force that is applied is to the trim tab on
the aileron, and no force is being applied directly to the control system.
The system will "ride" to the center where both up and down aileron
aerodynamic pressures are equal.
I would have to say the electric trim if your going to have an autopilot in
your system is the better choice. Any time you can trim the airplane to fly
level before you engage the autopilot will reduce the workload on the
autopilot.
Bob Japundza
-6 gettin close to being done
-----Original Message-----
From: lucky macy [mailto:luckymacy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid
Hello, I'm not confused about the difference between the electric and manual
trim at all when they are installed without Navaid. Just don't know how
Navaid ties in with them, if at all.
>If you intend to use Navaid do you order from Van's the manual or electric
>aileron kit?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Digitized panel drawings |
Fellow Listers:
I am in desperate need of digitized or scanned images of the plans pages
showing the RV-6 and RV-8 instrument panels. One of the avionics vendors
who is attending the Twin Cities RV Forum would like them so they can layout
some potential RV instrument/avionics displays. He needs the actual plans
drawings
and not a photo of a finished panel.
Can anyone help. Time is of the essence!!!!!!!
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A QB Kit For Sale |
RV-6A QB Kit For Sale
The kit was bought in 1998 with the following
options :
1. Sliding Canopy.
2. Elevator Electric Trim Kit.
3. Rudder bottom without provision for tail light.
4. Leading Edge Landing Light kit both wings.
5. Electric Flap option.
6. Firewall Recess Kit.
7. Manual Aileron Trim Kit.
8.Fresh Air Vent System.
9. External Step kit both sides.
10. Static Air Kit.
11. Dual Brake Kit.
The Empennage is done except for the fiberglass work..
The floor boards, left arm rest and window sill have been installed.
The rear top cover has been positioned and drilled.
The kit does not include the finishing kit.
I am selling this kit because I bought another kit that was 90% finished.
Asking $15,000.00. Please respond off list.
My phone number is (925) 829-4680 and my E-mail
address is
pjbodie(at)home.com
The kit is located in Dublin, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Only when the autopilot is on. You're really in wing-leveler mode when your
doing this, so any control inputs you make will be countered by the servo.
All the trim control on the Navaid does is initiate a slow turn, and it
works just like the turn control but slower. So with the autopilot off, you
wouldn't have aileron trim. Either way the end result is the same but in my
airplane I considered this scenario so I elected to install the electric
aileron trim which to me seems a bit more flexible but also a bit more work
installing than using just the using the Navaid for trim and autopilot. I
don't have a Navaid installed in it yet, but have set everything up so that
when I get the Navaid its just plug-and-play.
>The Navaid has its own aileron trim control built in, so you really
>don't need a second unit, either mechanical or electric.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Digitized panel drawings |
Doug
I have a few different RV Panel drawings in AutoCAD 4's, 6's and 8's with
all measurements. I have used the factory drawings but they vary by airplane.
I would be glad to send you the drawings if you want or full size plots just
let me know.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Autopilot |
boyd
i'm the guy buying the navaid from chuck. what do you mean , i don't have to
install an aileron trim system if i have the navaid, please explain.
scott
tampa
abayman(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | avionics retailers |
The time has come to spend more money on dash candy for both my RV and
a
Cherokee project. I've paid close attention to posts about different sellers
of avionics and have contacted most of them that have been mentioned. To my
amazement a few of the retailers that were recommended on the list miserably
fell short of others on price and delivery times. I will refrain from
badmouthing anybody online but I will post a note on who I chose to purchase
from.
Before I actually place my order I do want to be fair and allow anyone who
is able to give me a quote be able to do so. So if you have purchased any
goodies recently from a fair retailer (experimental friendly) please contact
me personally and let me know .
From my experience most of these guys will work a better deal if you have
them prewire or actually assemble the components for you. But, like the
rest of the airplane, everything is best done yourself. Then at least you
know who to blame.....
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
________________________________________________________________________________
HELLO....ok......the NAVAID links right into the aileron bellcrank with a
push-tube of its own. The NAVAID has no link to any trim of any ilk. Sorry I
misinterepted your query.
luckymacy(at)hotmail.com on 03/15/2000 12:29:31 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid
Hello, I'm not confused about the difference between the electric and manual
trim at all when they are installed without Navaid. Just don't know how
Navaid ties in with them, if at all.
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid
>Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:36:39 -0500
>
>
>Vans has a manual spring bias trim unit & Aero-Trim and Mac are the elect.
>versions of trim. The NAVAID mentioned is a auto-pilot/tracker of sorts
>that
>allows you to track a vor/gps signal. The two concepts are different &
>often
>times confused.
>
>
>luckymacy(at)hotmail.com on 03/15/2000 10:44:28 AM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: RV-List: Navaid
>
>
>If you intend to use Navaid do you order from Van's the manual or electric
>aileron kit?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
> HVLP gun when he wants to duplicate the factory "orange peel".
Orange peel has nothing to do with any type of spraygun you use.
Just a wrong amount of paint at the wrong pressure.
Every manufactor of paint will give a specific viscosity for application.
They will also specify as to what type of viscosity-cup to use.
For american paint it is usually Zahn or Ford.
European paint uses BS-cups.
Marcel de Ruiter
Aircraft-spraypainter
________________________________________________________________________________
And in my Navaid manual, it explicitly says to have a separate aileron trim
mechanism and NOT to use the Navaid centering control as aileron trim.
>
> Only when the autopilot is on. You're really in wing-leveler
> mode when your
> doing this, so any control inputs you make will be countered by the servo.
> All the trim control on the Navaid does is initiate a slow turn, and it
> works just like the turn control but slower. So with the
> autopilot off, you
> wouldn't have aileron trim. Either way the end result is the
> same but in my
> airplane I considered this scenario so I elected to install the electric
> aileron trim which to me seems a bit more flexible but also a bit
> more work
> installing than using just the using the Navaid for trim and autopilot. I
> don't have a Navaid installed in it yet, but have set everything
> up so that
> when I get the Navaid its just plug-and-play.
>
>
> >The Navaid has its own aileron trim control built in, so you really
> >don't need a second unit, either mechanical or electric.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
Specifically with Sherwin Williams paints, I have found that exceeding the
recommended reducer ratio by one part works very well. After several
interior applications, I found that instead of the recommended 4-2-1
(paint, reducer, hardener) that 4-3-1 virtually eliminates orange peel,
without the paint being to thin. I can't speak for other manufacturer's
paints, but if you don't have access to the Zahn or Ford specs, then this
worked well for me.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Help
>
> > HVLP gun when he wants to duplicate the factory "orange peel".
>
> Orange peel has nothing to do with any type of spraygun you use.
> Just a wrong amount of paint at the wrong pressure.
>
> Every manufactor of paint will give a specific viscosity for application.
> They will also specify as to what type of viscosity-cup to use.
>
> For american paint it is usually Zahn or Ford.
>
> European paint uses BS-cups.
>
> Marcel de Ruiter
> Aircraft-spraypainter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid Autopilot |
Not really a good idea. You really should have some sort of trim so the
autopilot is working from a stable or trim condition. Plus the ap isn't
always on.
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
boyd
i'm the guy buying the navaid from chuck. what do you mean , i don't have
to
install an aileron trim system if i have the navaid, please explain.
scott
tampa
abayman(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
I am ready to paint the wings which are off the airplane. Should the wings be
painted with the tanks on or off? If painted off - will the paint chip around
and under the screw heads when the tanks are fastened?
Ken
N94KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
How does one bring DC into "phase"?
Enquiring electronics techs wants to know...
Maybe the pot just sets the output of the regulator to 13.8 VDC?
Scott
RV4
glenn williams wrote:
>
>
> John that pot in the back is exactly that. To bring
> your voltage in phase, you need to have the alt/gen
> running as on a test bench and using your multimeter
> bring it in to adjustment and secure with varnish or
> nail polish
>
> Glenn
>
> --- John Kitz wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello Listers;
> > Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my
> > existing one and it has
> > on the back side a small adjustable pot, the kind
> > you see in electronic
> > devices that you are supposed to use a fiber
> > screwdriver on. What is it
> > for? My voltage gradually went to about 15 volts
> > and the radio failed
> > and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in need
> > of adjustment if
> > that is what that is. Either way I am going to lock
> > it with nail polish
> > from Victoria's Secret!!!
> > Thanks in advance for any insight.
> > John Kitz
> > N721JK
> > Ohio
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Autopilot |
My 2 cents is if you don't have an aileron trim of some kind then the
autopilot is always under aload trying to keep the wings level.Also with the
a/p off you will have to hold stick press. as the fuel burnsdown on on
side.I have the manual aileron trim inmy 6A,works great and is very simple.
Ollie Tampa 6A N795LW
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid Autopilot
>
> boyd
> i'm the guy buying the navaid from chuck. what do you mean , i don't have
to
> install an aileron trim system if i have the navaid, please explain.
> scott
> tampa
> abayman(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "InfoAv Corp - Jeremy Benedict" <list(at)infoav.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Accessories Catalog 2000 & Web Store |
VAN'S ACCESSORIES CATALOG 2000 AND WEB STORE
It's finally here! You can browse Van's new Accessories Catalog, use the
integrated shopping cart, price and purchase kit parts, renew your RVator
subscription, and more! All from the convenience of your computer, 24 hours
a day, 7 days a week, anywhere in the world...no more long distance phone
calls, need for fax machines, or waiting for snail mail orders to arrive at
Van's.
Van's Accessories Catalog 2000 features more than 1500 items from new
Lycoming engines to individual bolts, nuts, and rivets. The catalog is
organized in browsable sections, plus a handy search function is available
to find just the part you want. Although Catalog 2000 was developed around
the conveniences of the web, we will still offer a printed version,
available by Sun 'n Fun 2000. Of course, you'll still be able to download
the printed version in Acrobat format once available...
Van's Web Store features an easy to use shopping cart system with a quick
and simple checkout procedure. Using secure SSL technology, your transaction
will be safe and secure. The Web Store is integrated in Van's web site,
allowing you to take your shopping cart anywhere in the site, picking up any
item you need.
Question or Comments should be directed to webmaster(at)vansaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WHigg1170(at)aol.com |
I was wondering if any one else has had this problem with the space between
the elevator horn and the HS 411pp assembly (The bearing) I have a 1/4 inch
space in between the bearing and the horn. That goes for both sides of the
bearing. A 1/4 on each side. I called vans on it and they said to use washers
to fill the spaces. Not big deal but now I need a longer bolt. Just wondering
what others have come across.
Thanks Bill
Pembroke Ma
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod ? |
I used a trick learned on the farm with hoes and rakes. Start the threaded
insert into the tube, turn it vertical (insert up) and tap the opposite end
on a piece of wood. Put a nut on the insert, to protect the threads, and
repeat for the other end. Worked for me.
John Sheppard (one ?X*$% tank done, RV8)
>In making up my aileron pushrods, I discovered that the AN490 threaded rod
>end(s) that should go in the W-818 pushrods are all oversized for the
>pushrods.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Throttle Quadrant |
Hello RV Builders..
I'm sitting here tonight looking at my beautiful -8A which I now have over
900 hours invested over a 2 year period.
I have tried to work on this machine every day that I'm home from my
traveling job, and almost all weekends.
After taking Henry Gorgas 3 day workshop, and visiting Van's 3 times, I knew
I was ready to tackle this project.
From day one, this airplane has gone together so well, especially with the
assistance of the RV list to forewarn
me of potential problems and of course great service from Van's.
I'm now at the canopy cutting stage, and ready to order the 0-360 A1A/CS w/
74 " spending a good part of my
life's savings. But I keep looking at that throttle quadrant that Van's
supplies, 3 lever, 2 black and one red knobs.
There has got to be a better alternative, but not that $400.00 one I've
seen. I'm really amazed at the third party
equipment that is designed for the RV's. How about some cool looking knobs
that can fit this factory mount ?
BTW, here is my -8A, and most of the equipment purchased or soon to have :
Perfectly smooth wing and fuselage skins, (all backrivited)
Powder coated steel parts, all light Grey
Infinity Grips, both seats, using most all switch positions
Minimal use of Pop rivets, I hate em !!
Bright Yellow SW primer on all parts, (done at AC paint shop)
Fuel tanks by Don London
NAVAID A/P w/ wing tip servo mount
Remote mounted elevator servo on rear deck
P.O.S. AOA
Van's Engine gauges
Garmin GNS 430
King X ponder
Access cover to rear of instrument panel
Rocket wing tips
Andair fuel selector
Aeroflash strobes
My sisters Sarah's leather seats
Hooker 5 point belts
GEM engine monitor
T-34 NAVY paint scheme orange/yellow late "C" version like Bill Pagan's
I'm rambling now, but I'm real proud of this 8. But that throttle quadrant
has got to change.
Come see this plane if you are in the area...
Doug Gardner -8a #80717
Palm Harbor, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
In a message dated 3/15/00 7:43:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I personally would not "seal" the screw I would put
witness or torque seal on the screw after you have
brought your voltage in phase. >>
In phase? Most aircraft electrical systems are DC. Is yours AC?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Two Navaid-related items:
1) The manual aileron trim is sometimes useful for putting a "load" on
the Navaid servo. Our RV's have much less friction in the aileron
circuit than the composite aircraft for which the Navaid was first
designed. Consequently, it is not unusual for our installations to have
some "stick jitter" when the Navaid is engaged due to the servo
overshooting center. This can often be adjusted out of the system, but
some installations apparently work best if a slight amount of trim is
applied against the servo to keep it under load. I guess the same "load"
could be applied with the electric trim, but I do know that the
technique works well with the manual system. The servo is far stronger
than necessary to over-ride the trim and will not harm the servo. The
manual aileron trim works so well in the RV-6 that I can't see any
advantage to the electric system (except for putting a bigger dent in
your charge card and taking much longer to install...).
2) The wing-tip servo installation I posted about recently is airborne
and working like a charm. Folks, this is the absolute easiest
installation I have seen for the Navaid servo. If you missed the
previous post, you can get more info here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
Even though this installation was used for a flying aircraft, I really
like it for a plane that is still under construction. The servo is
easily accessed by just removing a wingtip, and the servo cover can be
removed quickly for servo tweaking. The small diameter pushrod is
working flawlessly, but I would probably use a 5/8" tube for the pushrod
if it was going into my plane.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 115 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
-------------------------------
"Japundza, Bob" wrote:
>
>
> Lucky,
>
> I wondered the same thing a while back and here's my two cents on the
> subject:
>
> With the spring-bias trim, there is spring tension on one spring or the
> other, obviously on the side you want to put down trim on. I don't think
> these forces are really that significant, but the Navaid will have to oppose
> this additional force in the opposite direction, thus requiring more torque
> to overcome the additional resistance.
>
> With the electric trim, the only force that is applied is to the trim tab on
> the aileron, and no force is being applied directly to the control system.
> The system will "ride" to the center where both up and down aileron
> aerodynamic pressures are equal.
>
> I would have to say the electric trim if your going to have an autopilot in
> your system is the better choice. Any time you can trim the airplane to fly
> level before you engage the autopilot will reduce the workload on the
> autopilot.
>
> Bob Japundza
> -6 gettin close to being done
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lucky macy [mailto:luckymacy(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 12:30 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid
>
>
> Hello, I'm not confused about the difference between the electric and manual
>
> trim at all when they are installed without Navaid. Just don't know how
> Navaid ties in with them, if at all.
>
> >If you intend to use Navaid do you order from Van's the manual or electric
> >aileron kit?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SALNED71(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX |
HAS ANYONE DETERMINED THE BEST LOCATION AND ORIENTATION FOR THE CABIN HEAT
BOX IN THE RV-8. I HAVE THE SMALLER ROBBINS TRIANGULAR SHAPED BOX AND AM
WONDERING IF I SHOULD INSTALL IT BEFORE OR AFTER MOUNTING THE ENGINE (0 360
A1A). IT SEEMS THAT IT WOULD BE MUCH EASIER NOW THAN AFTER THE ENGINE IS ON.
THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..........ED.80127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Horn |
Hello Bill, Jack and others,
I Had the same problem with mine as have others before us.
Instead of washers:
I made two spacers approximately 1 3/8' x 1/2' from some 1/4' aluminum 6061
stock, 2024 would also do.
If your fit requires a different thickness file, grind or use appropriate
thickness material.
I drilled one end to fit the required 1/4" hole. I tapered the other end to
about 1/4" to reduce weight.
I then fit the spacer with a 1/4" bolt to it's position. I oriented the
tapered end toward the center of the circular weld that holds the horn to
it's tubular shaft. Surrounded by welded material this area should be safe
structurally.
I drilled two 1/8" holes through the Spacer and the horn into the area in
the center of the round welded area. Two 1/8" pop rivets hold the spacer in
place for assembly eliminating the need to try to fit washers in a very
restricted blind area later on.
If this is unclear I will make an effort to explain further on request. I do
have pictures but no means of converting them to electronic media.
jim in Kelowna BC. RV6a finish kit.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WHigg1170(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 5:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Horn
>
> I was wondering if any one else has had this problem with the space
between elevator horns
> Thanks Bill
> Pembroke Ma
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick or Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Throttle Quadrant |
Gardner was looking for better throttle quadrant knobs for his 8.
I bought Piper twin engine plastic knobs. These are the conventional color
and shape for throttle, prop, and mixture and are narrow. With minor
modification they can be screwed on to Van's quadrant.
Sorry, I don't remember the cost but they did not break the bank.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS 180 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Throttle Quadrant |
George:
Good post about the throttle quadrant - my sentiments exactly! Here's what
I've come to - the Beechurst quadrant is too big without modifying the
surrounding metalwork on the airplane (also it's very pricey). They do have
a new smaller one which may fit - but their bezel won't fit it. I like their
bezel plate - it has all the labels silk screened on.
Steen Aero Labs make an excellent looking throttle quadrant (check the
archives). They are copies of world war two quadrants and the warbird guys
love them. A couple of EAA members told me that they are good quality. Up
until now they've only had reversing action quadrants available. This month
they're taking delivery of some direct action models. The two lever is $225
and the three lever is $250. The big question is whether it could be made to
fit. From the photos I have it appears that the unit mounts the on the left
side (looking forward) whereas we want the right side to be the mounting
surface.There's a lot of ingenuity on this list & perhaps someone could
figure it out.
Someone suggested fitting Piper or Cessna knobs to Van's quadrant. This
would improve matters, but a handsome bezel plate would dress it up even
more. Perhaps Steve Davis at Panel Pilot would be willing to make something
we could use.
Phil, 80691
Throttle quadrant, fuel valve, baggae bin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Throttle Quadrant |
>I'm rambling now, but I'm real proud of this 8. But that throttle quadrant
>has got to change.
I bot my -4 ready to go but never liked the standard quadrant. Rebuilt the
panel to include the prop and mixture on the lower left. That move left the
throttle by itself on the quadrant. Later moved the manual trim also to the
quadrant left of the throttle. Would not trade with anyone. Fine tuning of
mixture and prop with the venier (sp) controls, throttle where I want it AND
trim where I simply push pull with my two left fingers while my hand is on
the throttle. Looks good, works better.
Later at an IAC event I noticed that the Giles G-300 has the same throttle,
prop, mixture setup
Paul
hard at work on my F-1, one of the three mentioned on an earlier post
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transpo voltage regulator |
what I was trying to say was to bring your voltage at
the desired value, not phase but it sounded better to
use the word "phase" sorry
Glenn
--- Scott wrote:
>
>
> How does one bring DC into "phase"?
>
> Enquiring electronics techs wants to know...
>
> Maybe the pot just sets the output of the regulator
> to 13.8 VDC?
>
> Scott
> RV4
>
>
> glenn williams wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > John that pot in the back is exactly that. To
> bring
> > your voltage in phase, you need to have the
> alt/gen
> > running as on a test bench and using your
> multimeter
> > bring it in to adjustment and secure with varnish
> or
> > nail polish
> >
> > Glenn
> >
> > --- John Kitz wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello Listers;
> > > Just got a new voltage regulator to replace my
> > > existing one and it has
> > > on the back side a small adjustable pot, the
> kind
> > > you see in electronic
> > > devices that you are supposed to use a fiber
> > > screwdriver on. What is it
> > > for? My voltage gradually went to about 15
> volts
> > > and the radio failed
> > > and now I wonder if the one I have is simply in
> need
> > > of adjustment if
> > > that is what that is. Either way I am going to
> lock
> > > it with nail polish
> > > from Victoria's Secret!!!
> > > Thanks in advance for any insight.
> > > John Kitz
> > > N721JK
> > > Ohio
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > through
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > > Matronics!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> --
> --Scott--
> 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
> RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Ken,
I've seen it done every which way. I just finished my wings. What I did
was remove the screws but left the tank on the wing. The dimpling basically
held the tank in place while I turned the wings over (many times).
Once the paint dried, in went the stainless screws. Looks perfect.
I took this approach because I have striping that flowed over both parts.
It was easier to match up the stripes and it was also less masking for me
because I masked off all the internal, primered areas to avoid all
overspray.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Painting last part - to the airport in 14 days"
-----Original Message-----
From: Kbeene(at)aol.com <Kbeene(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wing paint
>
>I am ready to paint the wings which are off the airplane. Should the wings
be painted with the tanks on or off? If painted off - will the paint chip
around and under the screw heads when the tanks are fastened?
>
>Ken
>N94KB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrant |
I just received a Wag-Aero catalog and they show "military style" throttle
quadrants on page 57. It is hard to tell from the picture whether these are
an improvement over Van's . . . they run $46.50 for the three level. Anyone
out there use one of these on an 8 / 8A?
Rick Jory
Highlands Ranch, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I had exactly the same situation. I made .25 inch spacers out of scrap 2024
aluminum plate that I had on hand. I cut it so that they looked like very
big washers which made them easier to handle in the confined space. I did
also need to buy a longer bolt, so I opted for a drilled bolt so that I can
fasten the nut with a cotter pin.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A FWF
-----Original Message-----
I was wondering if any one else has had this problem with
the space between
the elevator horn and the HS 411pp assembly (The bearing) I
have a 1/4 inch
space in between the bearing and the horn. That goes for
both sides of the
bearing. A 1/4 on each side. I called vans on it and they
said to use washers
to fill the spaces. Not big deal but now I need a longer
bolt. Just wondering
what others have come across.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Throttle Quadrant |
>life's savings. But I keep looking at that throttle quadrant that Van's
>supplies, 3 lever, 2 black and one red knobs.
>
>There has got to be a better alternative, but not that $400.00 one I've
>seen.
Sounds like your RV is gonna be awesome! It won't be long now.
I simply chopped off a few inches of my mountain bike handle bar to make a
handle for the throttle. I left the mixture knob alone since it doesn't
spend any real time with my hand on it. I mounted the piece of handlebar to
the aluminum lever arm with two nutplates riveted to the top of the arm. I
countersunk the piece of aluminum handlebar on the bottom for flush screws
and simply bolted it on. I ran my push to talk switch to it as well, but
that's just my way of doing things. The handle is now more substantial
feeling than just a wooden knob. Oh, yes I did replace the handle bar on the
bike!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
new Skytec starter in place. Man that thing cranks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX |
>From: SALNED71(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX
>Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 23:40:13 EST
>
>
>HAS ANYONE DETERMINED THE BEST LOCATION AND ORIENTATION FOR THE CABIN HEAT
>BOX IN THE RV-8. I HAVE THE SMALLER ROBBINS TRIANGULAR SHAPED BOX AND AM
>WONDERING IF I SHOULD INSTALL IT BEFORE OR AFTER MOUNTING THE ENGINE (0 360
>A1A). IT SEEMS THAT IT WOULD BE MUCH EASIER NOW THAN AFTER THE ENGINE IS
>ON.
>
> THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..........ED.80127
>
I don't think there is any such thing as a "best" location, but I put it
right about dead center on the bottom so the heat comes out right by my
feet. The heat makes it back into the cabin pretty well. I still don't have
quite enough flow coming through it, but that's simply an issue of where I'm
getting the air from in the first place. I'll fix that one of these days.
There are pics on my web page that show where I put it. Yes, it is much
easier to make that big hole now without the engine or anything else in the
way.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
I put in the elec. elev. trim with the Navaid wing leveler (can't bring
myself to call it an autopilot). The trim function on the Navaid is for
use when it is engaged and flying the ailerons, not fro overall
trimming.
BTW I finally got the Navaid servo to fit behind the right footwell with
a floor mount. Write for details if you need them.
Joe "Traash" Waltz
RV-8, DWH (Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) |
lucky macy wrote:
>
>
> Is there a "list" of hand held GPSs which are compatible with Navaid and do
> some GPS brands work better than others with Navaid?
>
> >From: "Ted French" <ted_french(at)canada.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid
> >Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 14:51:34 -0800
> >
> >
> >The Navaid aileron trim control is only effective when the unit is being
> >used as a wing leveller. If the unit is not turned on, e.g., only being
> >used as a t&B indicator, then you need aileron trim independent of the Navaid.
> >
Lucky--
The Navaid unit handles GPS data thru a coupler ("Smart Coupler II, made
by Porcine, Inc.). Porcine claims that any hand held or panel mount GPS
unit that transmits NMEA 0183-2 or ARGUS data will work with the Navaid.
Which is basically all of them.
The coupler con be built into the Navaid unit for an extra $150. For
more info see: http://www.porcine.com or http://www.navaid-devices.com
Boyd.
RV Super6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> I've seen it done every which way. I just finished my wings. What I did
> was remove the screws but left the tank on the wing. The dimpling
basically
> held the tank in place while I turned the wings over (many times).
Grind the diameter of a few screw heads down so they're just big enough to
still hold on, and use those to make SURE the tanks stay on.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~60 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 CABIN HEAT BOX |
> HAS ANYONE DETERMINED THE BEST LOCATION AND ORIENTATION FOR THE CABIN HEAT
> BOX IN THE RV-8. I HAVE THE SMALLER ROBBINS TRIANGULAR SHAPED BOX AND AM
> WONDERING IF I SHOULD INSTALL IT BEFORE OR AFTER MOUNTING THE ENGINE (0
360
> A1A). IT SEEMS THAT IT WOULD BE MUCH EASIER NOW THAN AFTER THE ENGINE IS
ON.
>
> THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..........ED.80127
Ed,
I just mounted mine last week, also have the triangular box. Where you put
it will depend to a large extent on where you put everything else. I'm
learning that one's "firewall plan" is almost as complex and important as
one's "panel plan". In my case I located it sideways with the 2" hole dead
center and low on the firewall. This should do a good job heating me, but
probably not so good for my backseater. That's why I have a power plug back
there for the electric vest.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, plumbing & wiring
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
Hi Listers,
I haven't flown much cross country since the 1980's. My question is - has
GPS advanced enough that it can be used in place of VOR's for VFR navigation.
I am thinking of going with a GPS/COM unit and leaving out the NAV-COM
stuff. Big wieght and cost savings. I'm happy as a clam just tooling around
in good weather and I don't plan on doing any IFR flying.
Thanks,
Eric RV-6a Long Beach, MS (empennage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod ? |
>I solved (?) the problem by dunking the AN490s in a cup of ice cubes until
>well chilled and heating the pushrods with my propane torch (not red hot but
>much to hot to touch with your bare hands).
Does this affect the temper of the aluminum or is this of no concern with
the alloy used in the tubes?
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <kempthorne(at)earthlink.net> |
ABOUT mounting the fuel tank:
>Once the paint dried, in went the stainless screws. Looks perfect.
Are there structural stainless steel screws????
Hal Kempthorne - SJC
RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
Debonair N6134V for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VFR navigation |
In a message dated 3/16/00 11:09:36 AM Central Standard Time,
ENewton57(at)aol.com writes:
<< has
GPS advanced enough that it can be used in place of VOR's for VFR
navigation. >>
Eric, the answer is a definite Yes! But, you can still use the VOR
transmitter locations for navigation with the GPS if you buy a GPS that
includes the VOR's in the data base. GPS does everything the VOR did and much
more. You will love it. Hardest thing is to discipline yourself to maintain
your position on the sectional so you are legal and have a backup should the
GPS stop functioning for whatever reason.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
I am not sure that you would need structural stainless
screw (but yes they do make them) as most of the load
bearing structure is internal to the a/c and is hidden
if you need a manufacturer vendor let me know
Glenn
--- Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
>
> ABOUT mounting the fuel tank:
>
> >Once the paint dried, in went the stainless screws.
> Looks perfect.
>
> Are there structural stainless steel screws????
>
>
> Hal Kempthorne - SJC
> RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
> Debonair N6134V for sale
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VFR navigation |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
> Hi Listers,
> I haven't flown much cross country since the 1980's. My question is - has
> GPS advanced enough that it can be used in place of VOR's for VFR navigation.
> I am thinking of going with a GPS/COM unit and leaving out the NAV-COM
> stuff. Big wieght and cost savings. I'm happy as a clam just tooling around
> in good weather and I don't plan on doing any IFR flying.
> Thanks,
I can think of only one minor drawback of not having a VOR for VFR flight
and that is that there are places where the VOR is the only means of
communication with flight service for opening and closing flight plans.
This is not a common problem and can normally be worked around.
In general, there is no way the trouble and expense of installing VOR in
a VFR airplane is worth it.
I recently tried to talk a guy out of installing TWO VORS in a KR2. I
would have to say he is a little out of touch.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: treasure coast flyin (ART ?) |
does anyone know the guy that flew into the tresure coast flyin in a mooroon
& white rv6 a couple of months ago. I know his first name was Art. i would
like to get in touch with him.
thanks
scott
tampa
6a looking at seat foam and scratchin my noggin
btw. does it need to be fireproof?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Throttle Quadrant |
Des anybody have a web address for Steen Aero? the Yeller pages show only
a phone number. I'll call them if nobody on the list can help.
scot
>
>George:
>
>Good post about the throttle quadrant - my sentiments exactly! Here's what
>I've come to - the Beechurst quadrant is too big without modifying the
>surrounding metalwork on the airplane (also it's very pricey). They do have
>a new smaller one which may fit - but their bezel won't fit it. I like their
>bezel plate - it has all the labels silk screened on.
>
>Steen Aero Labs make an excellent looking throttle quadrant (check the
>archives). They are copies of world war two quadrants and the warbird guys
>love them. A couple of EAA members told me that they are good quality. Up
>until now they've only had reversing action quadrants available. This month
>they're taking delivery of some direct action models. The two lever is $225
>and the three lever is $250. The big question is whether it could be made to
>fit. From the photos I have it appears that the unit mounts the on the left
>side (looking forward) whereas we want the right side to be the mounting
>surface.There's a lot of ingenuity on this list & perhaps someone could
>figure it out.
>
>Someone suggested fitting Piper or Cessna knobs to Van's quadrant. This
>would improve matters, but a handsome bezel plate would dress it up even
>more. Perhaps Steve Davis at Panel Pilot would be willing to make something
>we could use.
>
>Phil, 80691
>Throttle quadrant, fuel valve, baggae bin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
The screws specified by Van's are AN509-8R8, known to the rest of the world
as MS24694-S4. They have a 125,000 PSI minimum tensile strength. The
stainless equivalent is MS24693C having a tensile of only 80,000 PSI. Given
Van's tendency towards cost savings I'd bet there is good engineering cause
for using the more expensive structural screws in the stated application. I
would not recommend substitution of non-structural stainless screws and
attendant 36% decrease in tensile strength without consultation with Van's,
preferably an engineer at Van's.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wing paint
>
>I am not sure that you would need structural stainless
>screw (but yes they do make them) as most of the load
>bearing structure is internal to the a/c and is hidden
>if you need a manufacturer vendor let me know
>
>Glenn
>
>--- Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> ABOUT mounting the fuel tank:
>>
>> >Once the paint dried, in went the stainless screws.
>> Looks perfect.
>>
>> Are there structural stainless steel screws????
>>
>>
>> Hal Kempthorne - SJC
>> RV6a N7HK at SCK Hangar K3
>> Debonair N6134V for sale
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <stambaug(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Throttle Quadrant |
I was looking into the cockpit of a Extra 300 that was on the flight line
the other day and they had the same setup with the Mixture and Prop vernier
knobs mounted on a bulkhead panel in the side of the fuselage, accessible
to the left hand. The had a rather large throttle lever that pivoted down
low and had a long arm for what seemed like very precise and not too
sensitive power control. I plan to mimic this arrangement in my F1 Rocket.
scot
>
>
>
>>I'm rambling now, but I'm real proud of this 8. But that throttle quadrant
>>has got to change.
>
>
>I bot my -4 ready to go but never liked the standard quadrant. Rebuilt the
>panel to include the prop and mixture on the lower left. That move left the
>throttle by itself on the quadrant. Later moved the manual trim also to the
>quadrant left of the throttle. Would not trade with anyone. Fine tuning of
>mixture and prop with the venier (sp) controls, throttle where I want it AND
>trim where I simply push pull with my two left fingers while my hand is on
>the throttle. Looks good, works better.
>
>Later at an IAC event I noticed that the Giles G-300 has the same throttle,
>prop, mixture setup
>
>Paul
>hard at work on my F-1, one of the three mentioned on an earlier post
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)avidyne.com> |
>...
>ICS Plus NAV/COM/Glidescope/Localizer/Intercom for less than $1400...
>
>What do you all think?
Bill, I guess "stay away" seems to be the answer here. Look what I found on
the ICS Plus:
"I have an ICS Plus nav-com sold by a well know Aircraft parts house in
Wisconsin. It has gone bad and I am looking for someone to repair it. The
selling party says to just throw it away since the FAA has put a stop order
on any shop fixing it, although the well know parts house is are still
selling the ICS Plus. I have spoke to three shops and the response is the
same, they won't be involved in the repair of this radio. If you can or know
of anyone that may fix this radio Please let me know. Thank You"
- by Perry Testory (ptestory(at)soltec.net)
I found this on the starduster bulletin board which can be found at
http://www.starduster.com/bbarchives.html
Mitch Faatz RV6A - Finish Kit, Setting up new shop
Bedford, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy and Walter Shipley" <wshipley(at)esper.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VFR navigation |
Eric, I mirror the comments that GPS is great. But, having said that, I've
experienced times (very occasional) when the GPS failed to work and I had
to revert to VOR & "finger on the map" navigation.
I plan to put a used Loran in the RV8A I'm building and use it as a backup
nav system. You can get them rather cheap now ($500 or so for a Flybuddy).
You may want to consider that.
Walt Shipley RV8A (Fuselage)
----------
> From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: VFR navigation
> Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 12:47 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 3/16/00 11:09:36 AM Central Standard Time,
> ENewton57(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << has
> GPS advanced enough that it can be used in place of VOR's for VFR
> navigation. >>
>
> Eric, the answer is a definite Yes! But, you can still use the VOR
> transmitter locations for navigation with the GPS if you buy a GPS that
> includes the VOR's in the data base. GPS does everything the VOR did and
much
> more. You will love it. Hardest thing is to discipline yourself to
maintain
> your position on the sectional so you are legal and have a backup should
the
> GPS stop functioning for whatever reason.
> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Throttle Quadrant |
I used Vans quadrant with HomeDepo colorerd "rosette" knobs. They are about
silver dollarsized in diameter, come in 5 or 6 colors, and are about .25 inch
thick. I used two, back to back, screwed onto the quadrant lever..... the
result looks impressive & costs 3 dollars or so for the entire quadrant (two
red, two black & two blue ones). I posted the solution some months ago...check
the archives. The knobs are sized as described above and have scollops around
the perimeter. Placing the quadrant lever between two of these knobs allows for
a nice grip and the plastic is injected moulded with the color so the color will
not go away if worn or scratched.
douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com on 03/15/2000 10:20:25 PM
March 10, 2000 - March 16, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-id