RV-Archive.digest.vol-ig

March 29, 2000 - April 06, 2000



      except for the trim tab. It looked good clecoed, but after riveting it had a
      3/8" twist. After exhausing everything I had learned in the 7th fleet, I
      ordered new parts from Van, built a new one the same way and it came out
      fine. I have since riveted both flaps and ailerons without jigs and they
      came out fine. I do use a new very sturdy, flat table to do this on.
      Bill Christie, RV8A Wings
      
      ----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 7:13 PM
Subject: Question on Stab and Fin Final Assembly...
> > > Hi Listers, > > Here's a question regarding the final assembly of the Horz. Stab and the > Fin. I jiged these baby's up nicely during the fabrication phase - > cutting skins, drilling holes, etc. - and everything is looking good. > I've had them out of the jig for priming and am now looking at Mr. Rivet > Gun with a gleam in my eye. So here's my question; while riveting > these, do I need to have them in the jig? The structure with clecos > seems pretty rigid and doesn't twist. > > Any insight would be appreciated. > > Matt Dralle > RV-4 #1763. > > > -- > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl>
"RV-List Digest List"
Subject: any RV( builders near Sun-n-Fun ??
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Hello listers, Im a Dutch RV8 builder, attendin S and F and being in Florida April 5-15. Is there anybody in that area wanting to show his (her) project and exchanging experiences? Arnold de Brie The Netherlands ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com>
Subject: Air Compressors?
Date: Mar 29, 2000
I've been using a 1 1/2 hp, 3 gal. Tank oiless compressor. It works just fine for riveting. I use electric tools for drilling, finishing, painting (HVLP system). My decision was based on no space, 110 volt power, and price. My recommendation is get an oil fed, 5hp, 10 gal compressor capable of riveting, drilling, and die grinding. I also recommend the HVLP system over a high pressure, air compressor driven spray gun. John Sheppard (RV8, 2nd tank) I'm not am RV builder yet! When and if I do, it will be a quickbuild. But I need to buy an air compressor for my hanger. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: clamping aluminum - steel bolt overkill
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Sorry, I didn't even mention "HOME DEPOT". I do have an industrial bolt supplier and can get what ever with any plating you wish on a class 5. The point is to be selective for the application. If you look back I originally suggested MS20003 internal wrenching bolts. They meet all AN requirements and a one of the replacements for the AN series that is being phased out. FYI, I been told that the McWhyte flying wires had cut threads and not rolled. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "scott gesele" <sgesele(at)usa.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 8:29 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: clamping aluminum - steel bolt overkill > > Cy, > > I take exception to the recommendation of using Home Depot hardware in > aircraft, especially in a structural location. AN hardware has rolled > threads, most hardware store bolts have cut threads. A cut thread leaves a > stress concentration at the end of the cut. This is a location where a crack > may start. You will not notice this until the crack has resulted in the > failure of the fastener. The rolled threads of AN hardware do not have this > stress concentration. AN hardware is cad plated, I have yet to see cad plated > bolts at Home Depot. > > AN hardware's origin is also much more traceable than the Chinese garbage in > the bins at Home Depot. Those bolts may be just fine for bolting an oil > burner back together, but when I have my RV up to 13,500', I feel real good > knowing that I took the extra time to ensure that the proper hardware was used > in the construction. > > We can get into the debate that Van's over engineered this joint. But if that > was the case, why not recommend leaving the bolts out all together? Also, > where in AC43-13 does it advocate using Class 5 bolts when the specified AN > hardware is not available? > > This isn't meant as a flame, just trying to pass on good info. > > My $.02 > > Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying > > > > I went back and looked. It was NOT about spar bolts, it was one of many, > many tank bolts into plate nuts. In this application, a good class 5 would > be more than adequate. > > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Subject: Re: any RV( builders near Sun-n-Fun ??
ARNOLD i live about 20 minutes from sun-n-fun in tampa. i'm building a rv6a at the finishing kit level, your welcome to by and check it out. scott tampa bleeding credit cards dry abayman(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: any RV( builders near Sun-n-Fun ??
Date: Mar 29, 2000
I'll be there also weather permitting. You can contact me at Van's booth during the show. Karl Schilling RV-8 N711KN see you there. -----Original Message----- From: Arnold de Brie [SMTP:ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl] Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 12:11 Subject: RV-List: any RV( builders near Sun-n-Fun ?? Hello listers, Im a Dutch RV8 builder, attendin S and F and being in Florida April 5-15. Is there anybody in that area wanting to show his (her) project and exchanging experiences? Arnold de Brie The Netherlands ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Subject: Alternator Kit
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Thanks pcondon: I will look for Mark in the EAA books. Does Mark have one of them Home Pages? I was planning on buying a new alternator from the shop down the street. Just needed info to know what to get. The starter you mentioned. I was planning on the Sky-Tech at like $375, but did your use one off a Toyoto tthat works good. ?? I was taking names on the project last night, & when Deb called me in to eat, I found out that the tornados took out Ft. Worth & the Bell hanger at Arlington airport. I live between the two & all I got was rain. Maybe I can find a used Transponer at the airport now. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** > > My regulator was 9.00$ from the NAPA auto parts store- from a > 1982-1994 Ford > (generic). I will get the model # from the box & post it on the > net.. Works > great. Mark Landrol (advertiser in EAA Sport Aviation) sells new & > rebuilt > tested alternators & starters( Toyota Starters) for Lycomings that > all of use > here in NJ use........nothing wrong with a junk yard one, but for > the same $$ > you can get one in a box from Mark and not get dirty pulling a real > used, dirty, > maybe not run in a while & the brushes are oxidised, maybe bearings > shot junk > yard unit...... (Mark also sells the ballance rings AKA harmonic > dampeners.... > & larger billet aluiminum pulleys for the alternators. All very > reasonably > priced. Also sells small ( very small ) adjustable regulators..I > purchaced one & > installed it but another builder needed a spare ( AOG) & I gave him > mine.....thats why I got the $9.00 Ford one now.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6captain(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Subject: Rv-6/6A TAIL KIT FOR SALE
I've got a 6 tail kit I need to sell because I just bought the RV-6 kit that was on the list A few days ago. Rudder is done everything else is still in the boxes. No dings dents or bondo. Also has the light in the bottom of the rudder. I think a new one is a little over $1000.00 so I'll sell this one for $850 and include the shipping in that price. Send replies to: southernaero(at)aol.com Thanks, Eli Lewis Venice, FL 941-408-1975 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2000
From: jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com>
Subject: Rocket Kit for sale
Gentlemen, I have a rocket QB kit ordered for some time with the initial payment made of 1000.00 to reserve a slot. Suffice it to say that with the death of my parents and the loss of a job, I have decided to hold off for my dream plane. I will continue to make IO-540 noises from my car in the interim, and will practice 4000+ fpm climbs by shooting myself from a cannon, which I've made from recovered 55 gallon barrels in my yard. If you are interested in the F-1 Rocket, quit waiting and take my slot. Fully anodized, titanium gear, beautiful design, hand made by former Daimler-Benz midgets specifically bread during the war to fit inside the fuselage for bucking rivets. (Ok the last one is a lie) You'll have a kit approximately 60-90 days from today, instead of a 6-8 month (or long) waiting period. Take my slot and pay me later, but contact me off list if your interested. Jason Baker P.S. If you haven't seen the latest on the kits, go to www.teamrocketaircraft.com for a real thrill. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: empennage fairing
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-List: empennage fairing > > << My fairing arrived yesterday , it fits like a glove and the quality of work is great. Scott Scott - You failed to mention the price of the fairings. Was it worth the savings in time than to just modify the factory part? ----------------------------------------------------- Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Southern Alberta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Empennage
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Well, here we go. Skin has been located, mapped, removed, drilled and relocated. Just sitting here taking a deep breath before I drill it to the skeleton. 30 minutes from now I'll need to know if I intend to dimple or countersink.....and I'll be sitting here taking another deep breath. Any strong opinions either way would be appreciated....but like I'm discovering on most of this project....I'll just have to make a choice and run with it. :-) Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2000
From: James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Empennage
Bill Shook wrote: > (snip) > 30 minutes from now I'll need to know if I intend to dimple or > countersink.....(snip)... Any > strong opinions either way would be appreciated....(snip) Bill-- the thickness of the empennage skins is marginal for machine countersinking for -3 rivets. There just isn't any margin for error. Also, the dimpling should be slightly stronger mechanically because of the interlocking dimples. I did countersink a handful of holes near the leading edges because they were difficult to dimple properly. Others have used the "pop-rivet" dimple dies or the modified vise grip dies in these spots. Still others have used sorcery (I know because I have seen some of these airplanes myself. there are places on the airframe where perfectly set rivets are impossible if you obey the physical laws of the universe). Two things that helped me at this point: (1) dimple harder than you think necessary. I had an accomplished sheet metal artist criticize my "wimpy" dimples after the stab was already back in the jig and clecoed together. It was a pain, but I disassembled and redimpled and now know he was right. (2) Use George O's tip and use the deburring tooll slightly to deepen each dimple. This really helps the rivets sit down better. James Freeman RV8Q Fuse (yeah, still....) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Empennage
DIMPLE. I learned early on to dimple whenever possible. Gary Zilik Bill Shook wrote: > > Well, here we go. Skin has been located, mapped, removed, drilled and > relocated. Just sitting here taking a deep breath before I drill it to the > skeleton. 30 minutes from now I'll need to know if I intend to dimple or > countersink.....and I'll be sitting here taking another deep breath. Any > strong opinions either way would be appreciated....but like I'm discovering > on most of this project....I'll just have to make a choice and run with it. > :-) > > Bill > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Subject: Re: Empennage
Don't even consider countersinking the skins. Not enough material for that. You could countersink the skeleton but I would dimple and just touch up the dimple with your deburring tool for holes. John Danielson Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Subject: tiedown question
Does anyone use nylon cargo straps (Like you use to hold stuff in your pickup) as aircraft tiedowns. If so do they stay on OK or do the hooks need to be modified, ie closed up a little. Thanks. Dave Beizer RV6A To the airport next week ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net>
Subject: Re: Mag switch orientation
> > The toggle switches we offer have a full compliment of > terminals on the back so that a switch can be "OFF" in > either the up or down position. You can also combine start > and mag switch functions by using a three position, momentary > switch for the left mag . . . OFF, ON, START and a two > pole switch for the right mag wired so that starter > contactor can be engaged ONLY if the right mag is OFF. Bob, forgive me if this is a repeat. Is there a suitable momentary pushbutton switch readily avialable to be used as a starter button that can be wired to ground the right mag when pressed to start? As in, toggle both mags hot and mash a button to go. I prefer the symmetry of identical mag switches and don't want to have to remember or care which is which when starting. Thanks - Mike hartmann(at)sound.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: scott gesele <sgesele(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Kit
Brian, I have no experience with Air-Tech, but do have first hand experience with Van's and the 40 amp B&C. The issue is reliability, not getting an additional 5 or 10 amps out of the unit. From this list, I had heard that Van's alternators were failing at around 200 hrs. After passing the 210 hr mark, I was quite happy that my Van's alternator was working perfectly, no problems at all. Then at 220 hrs, 3 hours from home, wife and 10 week old puppy on board, it went T.U. These things have a habit of failing at the worst time. I guarantee you that I wasn't saying, "Boy am I glad I saved $250 by installing the Van's alternator." It was replaced with a 40 amp B&C. IMHO, the B&C is a vastly superior product. It is smaller, lighter, looks great, puts out more amps and has a much better service record. I'm based on Long Island and have had the plane all over the county (Wyoming, Oshkosh, Florida, etc). Reliability is VERY important to me. Just some things to consider. Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying $350 for an alternator kit? Ouch. Unless you truly will need very bit of the 45 amps, Van's alternator kit works great. It's small, simple and bolts right on without any hassles. It looks good too. I'm very pleased with mine so far. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com>
Subject: Re: Empennage
Date: Mar 30, 2000
> (snip) > > 30 minutes from now I'll need to know if I intend to dimple or > countersink.....(snip)... Any > strong opinions either way would be appreciated....(snip) Take some small pieces of scrap of varying thickness, rivet them together with various combinations of rivets, countersinks, dimples etc., and then tear them apart with a couple of pairs of pliers. It will answer a lot of the questions you are going to have in regard to riveting this plane together. You will be shocked at how easy it is to tear a contersunk rivet out, even with adequate skin thickness. Scott Sawby ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Jeff Hawkins <jah(at)abraxis.com>
Subject: Lycomings For Sale...
Hi Listers... I'm posting this for my friend Don. He has the two 0-320's and one 0-360 for sale. These are freshly overhauled. He is asking $13,500 for the 0-320's. Please call Don for the price on the 0-360. The 0-360 is fuel injected and has a prop governor. His engines come with all accessories. You can reach Don at: Don Swords Don's Dream Machines 770-412-8885 donsdream(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Garmin 295
I have been told that a Garmin 295 portable color GPS unit will wash out easily in direct light such as might be seen through a bubble canopy on an rv. Does anyone have experience flying with one in an rv. How did you mount/shade it? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Jeff Hawkins <jah(at)abraxis.com>
Subject: Re: Lycomings For Sale...
I goofed... The 0-360 I listed below is NOT fuel injected. Please call Don for the specifiecs on these engines. Thanks, -Jeff Jeff Hawkins wrote: > > > Hi Listers... > > I'm posting this for my friend Don. He has the two 0-320's > and one 0-360 for sale. > > These are freshly overhauled. He is asking $13,500 for the > 0-320's. Please call Don for the price on the 0-360. The > 0-360 is fuel injected and has a prop governor. His engines > come with all accessories. > > You can reach Don at: > > Don Swords > Don's Dream Machines > 770-412-8885 > donsdream(at)aol.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Empennage
>Well, here we go. Skin has been located, mapped, removed, drilled and >relocated. Just sitting here taking a deep breath before I drill it to the >skeleton. 30 minutes from now I'll need to know if I intend to dimple or >countersink.....and I'll be sitting here taking another deep breath. Any >strong opinions either way would be appreciated....but like I'm discovering >on most of this project....I'll just have to make a choice and run with it. >:-) > >Bill Bill, I'd vote for dimpling where ever you can. There may be some areas on the h.s. where you won't be able to dimple. For instance, on the rear spar in the flange strip area. There have been some problems with smoking rivets on the forward belly skins on RVs. I had a few smoking rivets on the .040 belly skin on the stiffner angles and at the 604 bulkhead. I believe they now call for these skins to be dimpled into machine countersunk angles (firewall) or 604. I never had good luck with consistant depth with the micro stop countersink. It seemed that, what little machine countersinking I did, that the rivet would vary in depth. I generally set the countersink "short" and finish it up with a hand deburr tool. This takes more time IMO than dimpling. The other advantage to dimpling is that the skins/substructure are self-aligning due to the dimples nesting in dimples. With machine countersinking, you must often times insert an awl point into the hole in th underlying rib to be able to insert a rivet. This can really take some time. One other thing. It seems to me that a dimpled structure would take some of the shear load off the rivet and transfer the load to the sheets through the dimple. WARNING--- I'm not an engineer, that's just my gut feeling. To sum up: dimpling is more uniform and, I think, makes for a faster build. Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA Tech Counselor # 3726 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Francis Malczynski <ebafm(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: WD616 Welds Breaking
Thanks for all the responses on my WD616 welding break dilemma. After consideration of my options I think I'll try and get it welded locally, hopefully with someone that has experience with thin aluminum welding. The breaks may not have been all bad news since the inital alignment of the pivot arms was not exactly square with the tubing and this gives me the opportunity to get the alignment right. This list is great Thanks everyone Fran Malczynski RV6(fuse) Olcott, NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein(at)intel.com>
Subject: Garmin 295
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Hello! I mounted mine under the dash right in front of the stick. Sunlight is an issue but it's not serious. Even with the sun high and behind the 295 is very readable. Be certain to have the backlight on max and it will work. allen Allen Duberstein allen.duberstein(at)intel.com Phone: 412-831-7302 Fax: 412-831-5742 -----Original Message----- From: Arthur Glaser [mailto:airplane(at)megsinet.net] Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 9:32 AM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 295 I have been told that a Garmin 295 portable color GPS unit will wash out easily in direct light such as might be seen through a bubble canopy on an rv. Does anyone have experience flying with one in an rv. How did you mount/shade it? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv660wm(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Garmin 295
In a message dated 3/30/00 10:37:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, airplane(at)megsinet.net writes: << I have been told that a Garmin 295 portable color GPS unit will wash out easily in direct light such as might be seen through a bubble canopy on an rv. Does anyone have experience flying with one in an rv. How did you mount/shade it? >> I spoke to the av web tester/reporter and he said it works fine if you shade it. If I decide to buy one at SnF, it will be mounted on the glare shield with it's own F/G dog house to shade it. The report sez it works fine in direct sunlight when you shade it with a paper. I am going to try to take one outside at SnF and try it. Will let you know. Bernie Kerr,6A on the verge of initial crank, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 295
Date: Mar 30, 2000
I have the Compaq Aero 2100 Color and it looks great in direct sunlight. Unfortunately is doesn't look so good at night or in poor light. I think the Casio E-100 looks the best overall, but it does washout in direct sunlight. I think I would buy the Casio and use a hood if I were choosing now and I flew much at night. I'm using the Anywhere Map software with a Garmin GPS35. <http://www.controlvision.com/map.htm> Greg ><< I have been told that a Garmin 295 portable color GPS unit will wash out > easily in direct light >> >A related question....sorry not directly RV stuff....does anybody have >experience with the Compaq 2180 color PDA in direct sunlight? Trying to >decide which way to go-Garmin 295 or PDA with one of the new programs. >Dale Ensing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com>
Subject: Rocket QB for sale
All (who have asked or toss at night wondering) I think I am Kit number 26, but Mark will probably respond and give me the number. I let somebody who wanted to "move up" take my number, which was originally 24. JB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: empennage fairing
Is that Bob at IMFAIRINGS(at)AOL.COM ? If so Ive emailed him twice trying to get further info from him regarding an emp fairing for my RV4 and havent received any reply. Bob, if your on the list I'd like some info about how the fairings are made, cost, etc... Mike Wills RV4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B) willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil > >About a month ago, Bob Adams posted a message about an empennage fairing he >bought for his RV-6. The guy that makes these is Bob Snedaker , his company >is Fairings Etc. He is located in Arlington, Wa., phone # is 360-659-5055. >My fairing arrived yesterday , it fits like a glove and the quality of work >is great. > >Scott Baldwin >N728P >RV-6 ( finishing panel wiring ) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Switches...
Can anyone tell me if the standard toggle switches that AeroElectric sells comes with the "ON / OFF" name plate included? I can seem to reach Bob and I'm sure that there are more that a few folks out there that are using his product. Many thanks in advance, - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ ( panel ) N89JA ( reserved ) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: SkyForce IIIC
Anyone have experience with the SkyForce IIIC at night? Is the display readable? Good/bad? Larry Olson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Switches...
Jim, I just received my switches from Bob, they do not come with plates of any kind. I am also having a hard time getting in touch with him!!! Cash Copeland RV6QB 60075 Systems and wiring In a message dated 3/30/00 6:56:55 PM GMT Daylight Time, Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes: << Can anyone tell me if the standard toggle switches that AeroElectric sells comes with the "ON / OFF" name plate included? I can seem to reach Bob and I'm sure that there are more that a few folks out there that are using his product. Many thanks in advance, - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ ( panel ) N89JA ( reserved ) >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Pacific Aero Harness
Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). Just thought I throw out a product review for everybody. Verry nice quality work. I haven't installed them yet, but I'm sure it'll go well. Price was $125 per seat, and delivery was about 4 weeks. You might tell, I'm very satisfied, and another nice RV builder/business to work with. Thanks Rob. Laird RV-6 22923 (no I don't work for him....) SoCal finishing, finishing, finishing...... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Switches...
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Jim" I just got mine. Redesigning the panel through Rev 28, laying them out. They are 3/4 x 1 3/8 approx. They came with 2 nuts & a "hold em up washer with a tit". No star lock washers. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** > Can anyone tell me if the standard toggle switches that AeroElectric > sells comes > with the "ON / OFF" name plate included? > > I can seem to reach Bob and I'm sure that there are more that a few > folks out there that are using his product. > - Jim Andrews > RV-8AQ ( panel ) > N89JA ( reserved ) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Mag switch relay (was) orientation
Mike, I had exactly the same concerns you do. I wanted a single push to start button, and 2 similar toggles for mag switches, but I didn't want to have to remember to turn on off the right to start the engine (for a couple of different reasons). I came up with a relay the grounds the right mag when the starter is engaged. The relay I found had .25" fast on connectors, which is what I used though out my airplane as well. I think it was about 10 bucks. I also ran the starter button power through the left mag switch so a least 2 switches (master and L mag) have to be thrown before the prop will spin. I can dig up the relay part # and a schematic if you like. Email me direct. Laird RV-6 22923 SoCal finishing http://www.planes-wings-things.com/rv-6_panel.htm for a picture of the panel and switches. The web page contains some sales content, so don't let your children view it without parental supervision :-) > > The toggle switches we offer have a full compliment of > terminals on the back so that a switch can be "OFF" in > either the up or down position. You can also combine start > and mag switch functions by using a three position, momentary > switch for the left mag . . . OFF, ON, START and a two > pole switch for the right mag wired so that starter > contactor can be engaged ONLY if the right mag is OFF. Bob, forgive me if this is a repeat. Is there a suitable momentary pushbutton switch readily avialable to be used as a starter button that can be wired to ground the right mag when pressed to start? As in, toggle both mags hot and mash a button to go. I prefer the symmetry of identical mag switches and don't want to have to remember or care which is which when starting. Thanks - Mike hartmann(at)sound.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: control surface mounting
I've finally gotten to the point where I'm ready to mount the aileron and flap to my right wing. At first glance, the aileron mounts right up and fits where it's supposed to, which is a great relief to me. My question pertains to establishing the correct neutral position. My wing chord template is mostly rubbed out and barely dicernable on the bottom of my wing crate, so I've either got to derive one or do without. I'd rather do without and I'm wondering if anyone has mounted their control surfaces in this fashion and how it was accomplished. Also, George O. uses a scrap of bent aluminum to pin the bellcrank in the correct position, but it appears that he clecos it to the spar and I'm reluctant to drill another hole in the spar. This all can't be that difficult, as well over 2000 guys have done it! I just wish I knew how... :-) Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 finishing right wing, left wing skeleton completed, fuse arrives Tuesday... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 1982
From: Gordon Giger <giger(at)bmi.net>
Subject: rudder control cable
I routed the rudder control cable as the plans dictate.the cable when hooked up to the rudder and run to and fro,rubs the rudder stop.because of course the exit cable and the control horn are in line.is there something i'm missing?? have any idea's ? gordon, ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Re: SkyForce IIIC
I have the SkyForce IIIC Installed in my plane. I used it at night in my auto Texas to Arizona and back. went to Copperstate , Works great,is very well lighted Unfortunatly haven't had an oppurtunity to use it in the plane yet . Installed it after I returned home.Sure had fun playing with it on the trip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6captain(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Propeller Choices
Does anyone have any good or bad things to say about these two propellers? Ivo Prop or Prince P-Tip. Is a composite propeller smoother than metal or wood? What about resale value? Trying to decide on a propeller for a 6. Will probably buy a Lycoming 0-320H2AD that is for sale here locally. Thanks, Eli Lewis Venice, FL Just bought Bruce Stobbe's RV-6 Project. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: control surface mounting
Date: Mar 30, 2000
> I've finally gotten to the point where I'm ready to mount the aileron and > flap to my right wing. At first glance, the aileron mounts right up and fits > where it's supposed to, which is a great relief to me. My question pertains > to establishing the correct neutral position. > > My wing chord template is mostly rubbed out and barely dicernable on the > bottom of my wing crate, so I've either got to derive one or do without. I'd > rather do without and I'm wondering if anyone has mounted their control > surfaces in this fashion and how it was accomplished. > > Also, George O. uses a scrap of bent aluminum to pin the bellcrank in the > correct position, but it appears that he clecos it to the spar and I'm > reluctant to drill another hole in the spar. This all can't be that > difficult, as well over 2000 guys have done it! I just wish I knew how... > :-) > > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 > finishing right wing, left wing skeleton completed, fuse arrives Tuesday... Ken, In essence you will do this twice: once now, and again when you mate the wings to the fuse and line up four things... wingtips, ailerons, flaps, and flap fairings. After having done this let me pass along two bits of advice... 1) In doing the initial mounting now, don't use any of the methods you've mentioned. Instead use the tooling holes in both of the wing's end ribs to align the tooling holes in the aileron spar. Just use about a 5 foot straightedge of any sort. You may have to un-jig the wing to access the end. Tom Green at Van's told me that trick and in my opinion it's the only way to go. You will especially appreciate this when you are aligning everything later. 2) When mating everything to the fuse later on (save this tip for later), use the aileron as the reference as aligned using the tooling holes. Then align the wingtip to it and the flap to it. Finally the flap fairing will be adjusted to the flap which was referenced to the aileron. Hope that helps, Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, plumbing & wiring & a million other things. www.pacifier.com/~randyl Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: rudder control cable
Date: Mar 30, 2000
> I routed the rudder control cable as the plans dictate.the > cable when hooked up to the rudder and run to and fro,rubs the rudder > stop.because of course the exit cable and the control horn are in line.is > there something i'm missing?? > have any idea's ? I noticed this too when mounting my rudder stops. Scott McDaniels told me to mount the rudder stops slightly high so the cable goes underneath when the rudder is deflected all the way. Personally, I lined it up the flange on the stop with the flange on the horn because it seemed more durable that way when slamming the stop. Besides, the cable in question will always be slack. Your mileage may vary, Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, hoping to fly by the end of the year ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Propeller Choices
In a message dated 3/30/00 4:45:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, RV6captain(at)aol.com writes: << Does anyone have any good or bad things to say about these two propellers? Ivo Prop or Prince P-Tip. Is a composite propeller smoother than metal or wood? What about resale value? Trying to decide on a propeller for a 6. Will probably buy a Lycoming 0-320H2AD that is for sale here locally. >> Check the archives on this one. Lots of back and forth on the Ivo, with highly polarized answers. On the P-tip, several local builders used them and seem very happy. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Mag switch relay (was) orientation
>I had exactly the same concerns you do. I wanted a >single push to start button, and 2 similar toggles >for mag switches, but I didn't want to have to remember >to turn on off the right to start the engine (for a couple >of different reasons). I came up with a relay the >grounds the right mag when the starter is engaged. The >relay I found had .25" fast on connectors, which is >what I used though out my airplane as well. I think it was about 10 bucks. This configuration duplicates the problem we were trying to cure when the key-type ignition switch was replaced with toggles in our diagrams some years ago. With the advent of bettery batteries (RG) and starters (the modern lightweights) it becomes more likely that an advanced magneto (usually the right one if it doesn't have an impulse coupler) can get a spark off at cranking speeds. Years ago we began looking into starter kickbacks with B*C battery/starter combinations. The only scenario that yielded plausible cause was a situation were the pilot was having a hard time getting the engine started and after extended or multiple cranking operations just happens to release the key-switch back to BOTH just as the right mag's points open. The wrong spark at the right time could light off a cylinder before top dead center and produce the dreaded kick-back. The combination of switches and push button we publish addresses that issue directly. The right mag switch was OFF in order to crank the engine. It was not moved to ON until after the engine was running. The auto-kill relay described above is capable of producing the very action we set out to prevent. >Bob, forgive me if this is a repeat. Is there a suitable momentary >pushbutton switch readily avialable to be used as a starter button that can >be wired to ground the right mag when pressed to start? As in, toggle both >mags hot and mash a button to go. I prefer the symmetry of identical mag >switches . . . . No problem. Use two of the 2-5 switches, on-off-(on), spring loaded to mid position when both mags are ON and wire the starter through closed-when-down contacts of right mag and closed-when-full-up on left mag. Both switches rest in mid position when mags are on for flight. >and don't want to have to remember or care which is which when >starting. Can't help with this one . . . A pair of 2-3 switches combined with a push button will do it too . . . both of these techniques are described in power distribution diagrams downloadable from our website. I prefer the first as it requires fewer panel controls. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( The only time you don't fail is the last ) ( time you try something, and it works. ) ( One fails forward toward success. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: rudder control cable
Gordon, this is a common problem. Common solution is to move the rudder stop upwards enough to clear the cable. Gary Zilik Gordon Giger wrote: > > I routed the rudder control cable as the plans dictate.the > cable when hooked up to the rudder and run to and fro,rubs the rudder > stop.because of course the exit cable and the control horn are in line.is > there something i'm missing?? > have any idea's ? > > gordon, > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Switches...
>Can anyone tell me if the standard toggle switches that AeroElectric sells comes >with the "ON / OFF" name plate included? > >I can seem to reach Bob and I'm sure that there are more that a few folks out >there that are using his product. Thanks for the heads up. I thought I'd updated that photo and text some time ago. I just uploaded a new photo and fixed the catalog description to give more details about the switches. We've also added two new switch functions . . . 1-1 and 2-70 Our switches do not come with the ON/OFF legend plates as that's not how they're usually marked in airplanes. The down position is generally OFF but the up position gets marked with the function . . . such as LDG LT/OFF and BOOST PUMP/OFF. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( The only time you don't fail is the last ) ( time you try something, and it works. ) ( One fails forward toward success. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8 front seat and floor
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Listers, Just a quick comment on a couple things. After 67 hours in my plane. I'm getting shorter! Well, the seat cushion is settling a bit, and I'm now sitting a bit lower than originally planned. So, you might want to consider making your seat cushion an inch higher or so. It will compress over time. The big hole that has to be filled behind the wing spar could be filled with a much firmer spacer, which I'm considering doing. When pulling G's...you start sinking down as you pull with just the foam cushion there. I had my seat guy use extra firm foam, but it still squishes down. The front floor skin...right under the pedals, tends to oilcan. At least mine does. This changes the tone of the exhaust note during flight as it flexes. Yes, it's a wee bit annoying. An additional stiffener here should help take care of that. I plan to add one soon. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: rudder control cable
> > > I noticed this too when mounting my rudder stops. Scott McDaniels told me to > mount the rudder stops slightly high so the cable goes underneath when the > rudder is deflected all the way. Personally, I lined it up the flange on the > stop with the flange on the horn because it seemed more durable that way > when slamming the stop. Besides, the cable in question will always be slack. Any DAR or FAA inspector worth his salt will not issue an airworthiness cert if the rudder control cables are rubbing on the stops. The cables are only slack when the AC is sitting on the ground. Move the stops and stop the rubbing. Just my $0.02 Gary Zilik > > > Your mileage may vary, > Randy Lervold > RV-8, #80500, hoping to fly by the end of the year > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Propeller Choices
Date: Mar 30, 2000
> > Does anyone have any good or bad things to say about these two propellers? > Ivo Prop or Prince P-Tip. Is a composite propeller smoother than metal or > wood? What about resale value? Trying to decide on a propeller for a 6. Will > probably buy a Lycoming 0-320H2AD that is for sale here locally. Just to comment on props. A friend recently changed the prop on his RV-6 from a wood Aymar-Demuth to a new Sensenich metal prop (180 hp). I went along as data collector on all the test flights. We did a careful comparison before and after installation of the metal prop (I don't have the pitch dimensions, but the goal was to replicate the power output of the Aymar prop). The climb rates were within 40 fpm of each other and the top end speed was virtually identical (179K TAS, full power at 7500'). The metal prop had a different sound to it and of course the flywheel action during starting and shutdown was very desirable. The Aymar is an exceptionally efficient and smooth prop and in my opinion is far superior to any other brand that I am familiar with. The most notable aspect of the metal Sensenich was its weight (51 total vs 21 for the wood... prop, spinner, backplate, bolts). The pitch stability of the aircraft was vastly improved and changed an airplane that was an annoyance in turbulence to a much more comfortable and less "labor-intensive" aircraft. Doug Weiler MN Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com>
Subject: SkyForce IIIC
Date: Mar 30, 200
Larry, I've installed the Skyforce IIIC and it looks great at night (in my garage with the lights out). I'm not flying with it yet, but I think my night simulation in the garage is an effective test. The brightness is adjusted by the on/off dial and is very effective. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, Getting Closer! Indiana > ** Original Subject: RV-List: SkyForce IIIC > ** Original Sender: Larry Olson > ** Original Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 10:56:00 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > > Anyone have experience with the SkyForce IIIC at night? > Is the display readable? Good/bad? > > Larry Olson > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111)
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Garmin 295/Vertigo
"Duberstein, Allen" wrote: > > > Hello! > > I mounted mine under the dash right in front of the stick. > > Sunlight is an issue but it's not serious. Even with the sun high and > behind the 295 is very readable. Be certain to have the backlight on max > and it will work. > > allen > > Allen Duberstein > allen.duberstein(at)intel.com > Phone: 412-831-7302 > Fax: 412-831-5742 > Allen-- From a safety point-of-view it would be best if you did not mount your GPS below the dash. Having to continuously monitor the GPS means moving your head downwards and your semi-circular canals in your inner ear may very readily misinterpret this motion. During certain maneuvers and esp. during IMC/night conditions/busy VFR/or even a simple turn, this type of head motion can induce severe vertigo. A moving map GPS unit should be up or close to eye level so you don't have to tilt your down to view it (or any other flight info device). Read some of the NTSB reports on pilot induced error or the the physiology section of your basic pilots' text. Make a hood or sunshade for the GPS. This is not a trivial matter. Boyd (M.D./Flight Surgeon) Archive this one ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Need tools
Date: Mar 30, 2000
> I am considering adding a Matronics Fuel Scan LT to my Rv6A...have never > used one, and would appreciate comments about its utility, value vs costs, > installation difficulty, etc. (No, Matt, you don't have to respond!) I have one of those pieces of cra... er, one of those fine devices in my plane. JUST KIDDING -- it IS a fine device! I don't have anything to compare it with but I do like having it, its a real neat device. The manual is very complete, and comes with a nice laminated quick reference card. It looks nice too -- The original units were fine but he improved on that with a protruding bezel that fits into the hole, so it makes a good looking addition to your panel. I find I use it for leaning/setting power as well as double checking my fuel remaining. I REALLY like the "reminder" function -- this is a programmable feature that makes it start blinking/scrolling once user programmed amount of fuel has been burned. Switch tanks, press any button, and it resets the counter. Very nice. No need to tell it to start, once set its always on unless you disable it. I do have a few minor issues with it -- the main one is not really the fault of the unit, has to do with the placement of the sensor relative to the boost pump, resulting in high readings when its on. I'm going to try a pulse dampener bulb, but the moral is, do your best to follow the instructions for where to put the sensor (I couldn't due to how I plumbed my system). The only other thing to watch out for is that the body of the unit is a little oversized when compared to "standard" instruments -- 2.6"x2.65" including the protruding screws. This was a bit of an issue with me since I packed my instruments REALLY tight; as long as you are aware of this when laying out your panel it shouldn't be a problem. I initially was kind of bothered by having to always wait for the rather lengthy power-on self test, until I found out that there is a way to disable the copyright/code version part of it, and also to abort the self-test (hit any key -- DOH). In fact there were a few things that I wanted out of it that I didn't realize were already addressed until I read the manual. RTFM! Overall a very nice unit, I recommend it. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Propeller Choices
> > Does anyone have any good or bad things to say about > these two propellers? > Ivo Prop or Prince P-Tip. Is a composite propeller > smoother than metal or > wood? What about resale value? Trying to decide on a > propeller for a 6. Will > probably buy a Lycoming 0-320H2AD that is for sale > here locally. > Thanks, > Eli Lewis > Venice, FL > Just bought Bruce Stobbe's RV-6 Project. The service history of Ivo Props on Lycoming engines is VERY BAD. Check the archives. I personally will not fly behind (or in front of) an Ivo Prop on a Lycoming engine. The best props (safest and best value) that I have seen for RVs are available from Van's. There may be better but they are a LOT more money. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: How to not forget your master on??
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Last weekend I forgot the master on and now my new battery is completely dead. Does anyone have ideas on how to revive discharged batteries? Also, any ideas on anti "forget-your-master-at-end-of-flight" mechanisms? I've always wondered why aircrafts don't just have a car-like key switch instead of the master-switch combo. I realize there may be situations where you'd like to have your magnetos off and your radio on. This can probably be handled with another key-stage (like cars' radio only). Any other reasons before I look for a solution like this? Thanks, Moshe Lichtman RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Engine Ground
Listers, I'd like to mount the ground strap to my engine to a bolt inserted through a hole located near the bottom right dynofocal mount on my 0-320. The only problem is that I can't find a bolt which fits the factory drilled hole. A 1/4" bolt rattles around, and a 5/16" bolt simply won't fit. I'm sure others have used this hole for this purpose, so what'd ya do? Find a 9/32" bolt ;-)? Drill the hole out to 5/16"? What disasters will I face in the future if I drill the hole out to 5/16? Is there anything that uses this hole? Thanks, Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lkyswede(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2000
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Moshe See previous. If you did not receive E again. Art ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: rudder control cable
Date: Mar 30, 2000
> Any DAR or FAA inspector worth his salt will not issue an airworthiness cert if > the rudder control cables are rubbing on the stops. The cables are only slack > when the AC is sitting on the ground. Move the stops and stop the rubbing. > Just my $0.02 Yikes, sure didn't think that would be an issue, or that an inspector would even spot it. What bothered me was the stop hitting the horn above the flange and denting it... doesn't make a very positive stop. I'll raise it, was going to put flush head rivets in it anyway. Thanks Gary, Randy Lervold ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Matronics Fuel Scan
Date: Mar 30, 2000
(Sorry for the duplicate, but I just sent this with the wrong Subject line. For those who delete by subject, here it is again -- rh) > I am considering adding a Matronics Fuel Scan LT to my Rv6A...have never > used one, and would appreciate comments about its utility, value vs costs, > installation difficulty, etc. (No, Matt, you don't have to respond!) I have one of those pieces of cra... er, one of those fine devices in my plane. JUST KIDDING -- it IS a fine device! I don't have anything to compare it with but I do like having it, its a real neat device. The manual is very complete, and comes with a nice laminated quick reference card. It looks nice too -- The original units were fine but he improved on that with a protruding bezel that fits into the hole, so it makes a good looking addition to your panel. I find I use it for leaning/setting power as well as double checking my fuel remaining. I REALLY like the "reminder" function -- this is a programmable feature that makes it start blinking/scrolling once user programmed amount of fuel has been burned. Switch tanks, press any button, and it resets the counter. Very nice. No need to tell it to start, once set its always on unless you disable it. I do have a few minor issues with it -- the main one is not really the fault of the unit, has to do with the placement of the sensor relative to the boost pump, resulting in high readings when its on. I'm going to try a pulse dampener bulb, but the moral is, do your best to follow the instructions for where to put the sensor (I couldn't due to how I plumbed my system). The only other thing to watch out for is that the body of the unit is a little oversized when compared to "standard" instruments -- 2.6"x2.65" including the protruding screws. This was a bit of an issue with me since I packed my instruments REALLY tight; as long as you are aware of this when laying out your panel it shouldn't be a problem. I initially was kind of bothered by having to always wait for the rather lengthy power-on self test, until I found out that there is a way to disable the copyright/code version part of it, and also to abort the self-test (hit any key -- DOH). In fact there were a few things that I wanted out of it that I didn't realize were already addressed until I read the manual. RTFM! Overall a very nice unit, I recommend it. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gusndale(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: SkyForce IIIC
In a message dated 3/30/00 10:11:51 AM Pacific Standard Time, lolson(at)doitnow.com writes: << Anyone have experience with the SkyForce IIIC at night? Is the display readable? Good/bad? >> Larry, I have a Skyforce IIIC. I just got it and haven't used it in the air yet, but from playing around with it at home I would say it is very easy to read at night. The color is great and you can adjust the brightness to your needs. Hope this helps, Dale Wotring RV6A (finishing, finishing, finishing, finishing.......) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Date: Mar 30, 2000
[snip] > any ideas on anti "forget-your-master-at-end-of-flight" mechanisms? [snip] Probably the most common is an oil pressure switch/light. Plumb the switch into your oil pressure line, wired to a red light on the panel, and you've killed two birds with one stone -- low oil pressure "idiot light", which will always be on when the engine is off and the master is on. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 30, 2000
On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth attachment? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont Just installed those short belts last week, no seat cushions yet -----Original Message----- Whoopeeeee! I just got my RV-6 5 point harnesses from Rob Huntsinger at Pacific Aero Harness (http://home.att.net/~robh/). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Subject: Re: control surface mounting
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote: > Also, George O. uses a scrap of bent aluminum to pin the bellcrank in the > correct position, but it appears that he clecos it to the spar and I'm > reluctant to drill another hole in the spar. I built a -4 and the way I did this was to bend a small tab on a peice of .032 90deg. and drill a hole in it and place it over the 3/16 bolt on the bellcrank. There was a measurement on the prints showing how far it was to be away from the rib. I fastened it with a 1" C clamp. When you place the wings on the fuselage This can be done thru the inspection hole. Just save the little jig. I had to make two. (I lost the first one) Carroll Bird ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
> > Last weekend I forgot the master on and now my new > battery is completely > dead. > Also, any > ideas on anti "forget-your-master-at-end-of-flight" > mechanisms? > > Thanks, > Moshe Lichtman > RV-6A > Moshe: I have my tail strobe on a different switch than my wing strobes. I NEVER shut the tail strobe off. If the master is left on, the blinking tail strobe reminds me that I left the master on. Before engine start, the strobe will let ground personal know that the engine will be running soon. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Listers, For aileron jigging purposes, I clamped my aileron bellcranks in the proper position defined in the plans, then drilled a #40 hole thru the upper & lower braces, including thru the belcrank, and inserted a long #40 drill bit to hold the bellcrank in the proper position. This allowed setting up the aileron pushrod to the proper length....and sets up the proper range of deflection in both directions..... If, after installing the wings, re-jigging is necessary, just insert the #40 drill bits into the holes to hole everything in the neutral position.... Fred Stucklen N925RV RV-6A E. Windsor, Ct ____ From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: control surface mounting I've finally gotten to the point where I'm ready to mount the aileron and flap to my right wing. At first glance, the aileron mounts right up and fits where it's supposed to, which is a great relief to me. My question pertains to establishing the correct neutral position. My wing chord template is mostly rubbed out and barely dicernable on the bottom of my wing crate, so I've either got to derive one or do without. I'd rather do without and I'm wondering if anyone has mounted their control surfaces in this fashion and how it was accomplished. Also, George O. uses a scrap of bent aluminum to pin the bellcrank in the correct position, but it appears that he clecos it to the spar and I'm reluctant to drill another hole in the spar. This all can't be that difficult, as well over 2000 guys have done it! I just wish I knew how... :-) Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 finishing right wing, left wing skeleton completed, fuse arrives Tuesday... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harness
Steve, If you let me know you are using 5 point harnesses, I build your seats to accomodate that. Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Propeller Choices
I have the same opinion on IVO on Lycomings.......I would not go that route. Vans sensenich props aren't that more expensive when you consider they come with extentions,bolts & factory support. Final prop tweaking at the factory or a certified prop shop is available too for about 100.00$...by this I meas adding or taking a inch or two of bite out of the pitch to suit the airframe/engine/prop/weight combo. of aircraft. Check the archives there is data on Whirlwind, MT, Sensenich, Hardsell (misspelled on porpoise )....and other wood props. rv6flier(at)yahoo.com on 03/31/2000 12:08:46 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Propeller Choices > > Does anyone have any good or bad things to say about > these two propellers? > Ivo Prop or Prince P-Tip. Is a composite propeller > smoother than metal or > wood? What about resale value? Trying to decide on a > propeller for a 6. Will > probably buy a Lycoming 0-320H2AD that is for sale > here locally. > Thanks, > Eli Lewis > Venice, FL > Just bought Bruce Stobbe's RV-6 Project. The service history of Ivo Props on Lycoming engines is VERY BAD. Check the archives. I personally will not fly behind (or in front of) an Ivo Prop on a Lycoming engine. The best props (safest and best value) that I have seen for RVs are available from Van's. There may be better but they are a LOT more money. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
> I have my tail strobe on a different switch than my > wing strobes. I NEVER shut the tail strobe off. If > the master is left on, the blinking tail strobe > reminds me that I left the master on. Before engine > start, the strobe will let ground personal know that > the engine will be running soon. > > > ==== > Gary A. Sobek Gary - WHAT A GREAT IDEA!! I was pondering methods of addressing the problem after reading the original post. All I came up with is a keyed master switch instead of a rocker switch, and keeping your car keys and master key on the same key ring. You may forget, but you won't get far! Figured it wasn't worth posting... But your idea of a hard-wired strobe to the master is very good. I'll implement that. Thanks. Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Closing Wings!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
--- "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote: > > For aileron jigging purposes, I clamped my aileron bellcranks in > the > proper position defined in the plans, then drilled a #40 hole thru > the upper > & lower braces, including thru the belcrank, Seems like the neutral position favors using the bottom part of the bellcrank for this. You can, of course, still reach to place the pin through the access hatch (after the wings are closed?) Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Closing Wings! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Date: Mar 31, 2000
I was trying to solve a different problem and the solution solves the master switch problem too. I wired a microswitch onto the manual flap handle support so that a panel light illuminated whenever the flaps are not fully up. My idea was not to forget the flaps on the occasional partial flap takeoff. It works great for that, but on my 6A I always leave the flaps down for ease of entry/exit - so the light also doubles as a master-on light. Ed Bundy > Does anyone have ideas on how to revive discharged batteries? Also, any > ideas on anti "forget-your-master-at-end-of-flight" > mechanisms? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Date: Mar 31, 2000
> > Does anyone have ideas on how to revive discharged batteries? Also, any > ideas on anti "forget-your-master-at-end-of-flight" The Beacon is AKA the "master warning idiot light" Never turn it off. (except for maintenance) If you have strobes, it is not politically correct to be taxiing around on the ground with the strobes on, but batteries are expensive so I leave mine on all the time. Ever try to get out of the hanger with the strobes running???? Not likely. An additional benefit to this program is if you are working on, or near, an airplane and the beacon starts flashing, someone is in the cockpit fooling around and you may want to stay clear of the propellor arc. Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal dougr(at)petroblend.com www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
I am wiring the collision light on the belly to the master relay. Searce the archives for aero electric & battery for the charging procedures. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** > Last weekend I forgot the master on and now my new battery is > completely dead. > > Thanks, > Moshe Lichtman > RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: SkyForce IIIC
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
What did you do to mount it ? I understand you buy high $ bracket so it will unhook if you wnat to take it to the motel. Can I build one? or how much did the bracket run? Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** > I have the SkyForce IIIC Installed in my plane. I used it at night > in my auto Texas to Arizona and back. went to Copperstate , Works great,is very well lighted ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 295/Vertigo
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Boyd (M.D./Flight Surgeon), Thanks for the flight physiology, aero-medical stuff. Sharing your knowledge and expertise could well save a life or two. Thank you for your input (even if it's not directly "RV"). Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Lycoming burn-in period?
Can anyone tell me what the skinny is on your first few hours on your brand new Lycoming? I understand from friends that I need to run it FULL THROTTLE for the first few hours to get it to seat properly. This is going to make initial checkout rather painful, and windy to say the least : ) - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ ( Fuselage - panel ) N89JA (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Developed a good checklist, many people think that after takeoff you can throw the list in the back seat. A before landing and engine shutdown checklist can save you from a very embarrassing situation. Blue Skies, Carey Mills ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Sure can, but can you accommodate individual variation in where the fifth belt comes through? In other words, if I give you the measurements, can you build to that specification? I'll bet everyone is putting these damn fifth belts in slightly different spots. I got the belt from Van's but no instructions and no advice except that lots of others had done it lots of different ways. Steve Soule -----Original Message----- From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com [mailto:OrndorffG(at)aol.com] Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 8:54 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harness Steve, If you let me know you are using 5 point harnesses, I build your seats to accomodate that. Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
In a message dated 3/31/2000 9:21:40 AM Central Standard Time, grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes: << But your idea of a hard-wired strobe to the master is very good. I'll implement that. >> If you ever plan to fly IMC you should not hard wire the strobe to the master, you want the option to turn the strobe off and still maintain ele power. With the strobe running in the clouds you can encounter flicker vertigo. Lights that flicker at a rate of 4 to 20 cycles per second can cause nausea and vomiting and in severe cases convulsions and unconsciousness may be experienced. This can be caused by rotating beacons and strobes reflecting against an overcast sky. Carey Mills ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Lycoming burn-in period?
Date: Mar 31, 2000
everyone has there own ideas on the matter however I would follow Lycomings break in directions. Who knows their eng's better than the manufacter. -----Original Message----- From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [SMTP:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com] Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 11:09 Subject: RV-List: Lycoming burn-in period? Can anyone tell me what the skinny is on your first few hours on your brand new Lycoming? I understand from friends that I need to run it FULL THROTTLE for the first few hours to get it to seat properly. This is going to make initial checkout rather painful, and windy to say the least : ) - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ ( Fuselage - panel ) N89JA (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6captain(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Archives?
Everyone keeps telling me to check the archives. Where are they? Thanks, Eli Lewis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Date: Mar 31, 2000
That's a slick idea. Wish I had a strobe in my tail. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 'At the airport - final prep" > Moshe: > > I have my tail strobe on a different switch than my > wing strobes. I NEVER shut the tail strobe off. If > the master is left on, the blinking tail strobe > reminds me that I left the master on. Before engine > start, the strobe will let ground personal know that > the engine will be running soon. > > > ==== > Gary A. Sobek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Archives?
ALL this chatter you see on a daily basis x 365 days a year x 5 or more years X all the classes of RV's + more ......lots-o-data to review by subject and title. Our host of this thread group (matt) has a search engine that can retreive all hits of a key word, phrase, title or what have you. You can request a "batch" report from Matts' system & you can read a custom file tailored to your request (takes a whole 5 to 8 seconds). Its like white-out, wire ties & drywall screws & post-it sticky note paper.........once you use em' you wonder how life was possible before..... Go to Matts home and follow links to the search engine....there a couple of versions of it...each sclices the database a little differently.....ya gotta use it.....its great. RV6captain(at)aol.com on 03/31/2000 01:01:03 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Archives? Everyone keeps telling me to check the archives. Where are they? Thanks, Eli Lewis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Mag switch relay
Laird wrote: >I had exactly the same concerns you do. I wanted a >single push to start button, and 2 similar toggles >for mag switches, but I didn't want to have to remember >to turn on off the right to start the engine (for a couple >of different reasons). I came up with a relay the >grounds the right mag when the starter is engaged. The >relay I found had .25" fast on connectors, which is >what I used though out my airplane as well. I think it was about 10 bucks. Bob responded: This configuration duplicates the problem we were trying to cure when the key-type ignition switch was replaced with toggles in our diagrams some years ago. With the advent of bettery batteries (RG) and starters (the modern lightweights) it becomes more likely that an advanced magneto (usually the right one if it doesn't have an impulse coupler) can get a spark off at cranking speeds. Years ago we began looking into starter kickbacks with B*C battery/starter combinations. The only scenario that yielded plausible cause was a situation were the pilot was having a hard time getting the engine started and after extended or multiple cranking operations just happens to release the key-switch back to BOTH just as the right mag's points open. The wrong spark at the right time could light off a cylinder before top dead center and produce the dreaded kick-back. The combination of switches and push button we publish addresses that issue directly. The right mag switch was OFF in order to crank the engine. It was not moved to ON until after the engine was running. The auto-kill relay described above is capable of producing the very action we set out to prevent. snip Laird replies: Bob, You teach fault tolerance in the aeroelectric connection. In the case of your two toggle mag switch scheme, what happens if someone forgets (I know this never happens) to follow the "Start Checklist" and throws both switches up and pushes the starter button. Probably a healthy kick back that could cost $$$ to replace the starter ring. That doesn't seem very fault tolerant. You could solve the problem by wiring the starter to not start if it right mag is up (on). But, if you ever encounter a condition in flight where you need to restart the engine, you would have to remember to turn the r mag off. I bet I'd forget during the "urgent desire" to get the engine started. By wiring a relay to ground the r mag during starter operation, I've eliminated the possibility of an inadvertent r mag switch on during start up. You did make a good point that there is a condition where you MIGHT get a cylinder to light off after you remove the current from the starter button, but I think that would be really rare. How many airplane have the key start switch where this could happen. Thousands, I'd bet. So...I will leave my grounding relay in my airplane, but change the Start Checklist to leave the right mag off during start. But in the case I forget, I'll still be protecting the starter ring. Thanks for the dialog, Laird RV-6 22923 SoCal finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: Jeff Hawkins <jah(at)abraxis.com>
Subject: 0-320 B2D For Sale
Hi Listers, I have an 0-320 B2D for sale. The engine is experimental and has approx. 445 hours (via log book ) on it. Included is an Ellison EFS-4 Throttle Body Injector. I'm asking $6500. Please call or email if interested. Thanks, Jeff Hawkins 770 777-7431 (Atlanta, Georgia) jah(at)abraxis.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: SkyForce IIIC
How did I mount it: I took off the back cover off and used the two center holes to attach it to a piece of 032 aluminum that bent at 90 degree angle at each side, and used a 032 angle on each end of that making a bracket that I back drilled through the panel. Counter sunk the panel and attached a plate nut on the bracket. The strip of aluminum at the back had to have relief holes drilled for the two outside screws and the plug receptacle. turned out to be a neat installation, got this Idea from a friend building a 6A slider. I have a tip up. by unscrewing two screws in the front of the panel and turning the Skyforce sideways a little it will pull through the hole in the panel. Bracket and all. Works real well for me. I ordered all three mounts. (1) panel, (2) Gimbal, (3) Rack mount. I had been waiting for over 6 Months for them to get here,. and what I was going to do was see which one I liked best and return the other two. Got real tired of waiting so Opted to install it with home made mount. Took a couple of hours to manufacture with parts readily available from scrap box. The plug from the Skyforce hanges down from under the panel and plugs into the aux power outlet. but will cut it off when I have time and crimp a couple of terminals to the ends that I got from AAMR/AirCore and perminately attach to subpanel. Hope this helps Terry E. Cole N468TC flying. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Thanks...
Thanks to all who responded, both on the list and personally, to my request for tips on mounting my control surfaces. Using an amalgam of the different techniques described to me, I successfully mounted the aileron and flap to my right wing this afternoon. Now I just have to sweet-talk my wife into helping me rivet the two bottom skins on tomorrow. Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 finally finishing the wings... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Electric Attitude Gyro - $995
I used a vacuum driven attitude gyro, but I know many folks are considering an electric attitude gyro. Here's a note I just received from ACS: A new product in our line of instruments are factory new import Electric Attitude Gyros. These electric gyros fit the standard gyro instrument cut-out and features a push-to-cage knob, low power/power failure flag and longer life and reliability due to lower operating temperature. Comes with a standard black casing and adjustment knob, bright yellow/green airplane marker and sky blue/brown ground dial. 6.4" Depth. Wt: 2.4 lbs. Power: 14VDC. Requires MS3116E8 connector (not included). Import Electric Attitude Gyro P/N 10-00013 $995.00 MS3116E8-4S Connector $19.10 ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: where can I get a push to talk switch?
Date: Mar 31, 2000
I want to put a simple hardware store cap in my control stick and drill and fit a push to talk switch. I can't seem to find a PTT switch in either the ACS or Wicks catalogs. Avery used to carry one, but just discontinued it. Anyone know where I can get a simple PTT switch? Radio Shack? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A panel and FWF stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Help with RV-6/6A F-6111 Stiffener Installation
-6/6A builders: Since I can't find anything in the archives, I assume that I must be the only one who has had trouble getting that darn funny curved stiffener that is supposed to go in the overhang of the top skin forward of the F-606 bulkhead to fit. George O says in his video to just play with it and twist it. Well, I've tried that 'till I'm blue in the face and I still can't find a way to get it to fit anywhere near where the SC drawings show it without forcing the skin to match it, which seems to me to defeat the purpose of holding the skin in a natural curve. Any and all suggestions will be most appreciated. Harry Crosby -6 SB Finish Kit (forever at this rate) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Date: Mar 31, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Moshe Lichtman <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 11:23 PM Subject: RV-List: How to not forget your master on?? > If you have a rotating beacon or strobe lites,NEVER TURN THEM OFF and someone will always remind you that your master is on. Ollie 6A Tampa > Last weekend I forgot the master on and now my new battery is completely > > Any other reasons before I look for a solution like this? > > Thanks, > Moshe Lichtman > RV-6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Re: where can I get a push to talk switch?
Hello, I buy from Radio Shack only as a last resort...a quality issue. Some electronics outfits to check though be prepared for minimum order hassles... http://www.alliedelec.com/ (owns Radio Shack I believe) www.newark.com www.digikey.com www.jameco.com www.switchcraft.com http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/products/switches/ There are many, many more, but this will get you started. Oh, have you checked Van's catalog? That's my first stop. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 Wings bottom skins Moscow, ID USA At 3/31/00 05:08 PM, you wrote: > >I want to put a simple hardware store cap in my control stick and drill and >fit a push to talk switch. I can't seem to find a PTT switch in either the >ACS or Wicks catalogs. Avery used to carry one, but just discontinued it. >Anyone know where I can get a simple PTT switch? Radio Shack? > >Steve Soule >Huntington, Vermont >RV-6A panel and FWF stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
Subject: Re: control surface mounting
Date: Mar 31, 2000
I'm rigging my left aileron now. I did have the templates and made up the little piece like George did. My problem is the plans and george both say the length shown on the plan for the pushrod is good. When I put everything together, my pushrod comes out about 1/8th inch too long to just drop in. So, what is critical, the length of the pushrod or the 2.5" from the spar? Needless to say, I have rechecked everything several times. Opinions?? Bill Christie, RV8A Phoenix ----- Original Message ----- From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 12:16 PM Subject: RV-List: control surface mounting > > I've finally gotten to the point where I'm ready to mount the aileron and > flap to my right wing. At first glance, the aileron mounts right up and fits > where it's supposed to, which is a great relief to me. My question pertains > to establishing the correct neutral position. > > My wing chord template is mostly rubbed out and barely dicernable on the > bottom of my wing crate, so I've either got to derive one or do without. I'd > rather do without and I'm wondering if anyone has mounted their control > surfaces in this fashion and how it was accomplished. > > Also, George O. uses a scrap of bent aluminum to pin the bellcrank in the > correct position, but it appears that he clecos it to the spar and I'm > reluctant to drill another hole in the spar. This all can't be that > difficult, as well over 2000 guys have done it! I just wish I knew how... > :-) > > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 > finishing right wing, left wing skeleton completed, fuse arrives Tuesday... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
> any > ideas on anti "forget-your-master-at-end-of-flight" > mechanisms? My Precise Flight standby vacuum warning light is on whenever the master is on but the engine is not running (no vacuum). I mounted the light atop the center of the panel, so it gets my attention every time. tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Uh, you may not want to hard-wire the strobe to the master. If you need to turn off the strobes in fog or mist, you'd be S.O.L. I believe what Gary is using is that he has a seperate switch for the tail strobe and just leaves it in the on position 24/7. Scott Mike Thompson wrote: > > > > I have my tail strobe on a different switch than my > > wing strobes. I NEVER shut the tail strobe off. If > > the master is left on, the blinking tail strobe > > reminds me that I left the master on. Before engine > > start, the strobe will let ground personal know that > > the engine will be running soon. > > > > > > ==== > > Gary A. Sobek > > Gary - WHAT A GREAT IDEA!! > > I was pondering methods of addressing the problem after reading the > original post. All I came up with is a keyed master switch instead of > a rocker switch, and keeping your car keys and master key on the same > key ring. You may forget, but you won't get far! Figured it wasn't > worth posting... > > But your idea of a hard-wired strobe to the master is very good. I'll > implement that. > > Thanks. > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > Closing Wings!! > -- --Scott-- 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642 RV-4 under construction (tail feathers) Gotta Fly or Gonna Die! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com>
Subject: SkyForce IIIC
Date: Mar 31, 200
Don, I've mounted the SkyForce IIIC in the bottom center of my panel. The bracket cost $125. It's well engineered. It has a quick release function to allow you to remove it so you can take it home to plan your next trip (you'll need a wall-plug adapter), or plug it in your car to find local airports when you're driving around. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, Still putt'n it t'gether Indiana > ** Original Message follows... > > What did you do to mount it ? I understand you buy high $ bracket so it > will unhook if you wnat to take it to the motel. Can I build one? or how > much did the bracket run? > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming burn-in period?
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Jim, Read & do what lycoming says, not the rumors floating around the hangar. Lycoming says 75% power. Full power for extended periods will overheat the new engine, at least that was the case with me. Rick Caldwell -6 34 hrs on new o-320 Melbourne, FL >From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Lycoming burn-in period? >Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 10:09:16 -0600 > > >Can anyone tell me what the skinny is on your first few hours on your brand >new >Lycoming? > >I understand from friends that I need to run it FULL THROTTLE for the first >few >hours to get it to seat properly. This is going to make initial checkout >rather >painful, and windy to say the least : ) > >- Jim Andrews > >RV-8AQ ( Fuselage - panel ) >N89JA (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: where can I get a push to talk switch?
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote: > > > I want to put a simple hardware store cap in my control stick and drill and > fit a push to talk switch. I can't seem to find a PTT switch in either the > ACS or Wicks catalogs. Avery used to carry one, but just discontinued it. > Anyone know where I can get a simple PTT switch? Radio Shack? > > Steve Soule > Huntington, Vermont > RV-6A panel and FWF stuff Steve, I've had good service from a R S style switch for the ~6 yrs I've owned my -4. There isn't any real power being carried by the switch, so all you really need is resistance to corrosion & strong enough construction to be reliable. If you really want ultimate reliability, ask for one with 'double pole' contacts. Just wire the contacts in parallel, like portable PTT's. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Help with RV-6/6A F-6111 Stiffener Installation
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > > -6/6A builders: Since I can't find anything in the archives, I assume > that I must be the only one who has had trouble getting that darn funny > curved stiffener that is supposed to go in the overhang of the top skin > forward of the F-606 bulkhead to fit. George O says in his video to just > play with it and twist it. Oh how I remember this piece. My wife and I each took one and tried and tried to get them to fit. I twisted, cut, trimed, fluted and finally gave up after what seemed like hours. My wife's side was no better. The next morning I walked up to the fuselage and stuck them in place and they fit perfectly. Go figure. > Well, I've tried that 'till I'm blue in the face > and I still can't find a way to get it to fit anywhere near where the SC > drawings show it Placement is not critical. Their purpose is to keep the skin from caving in if some gomer leans on the plane with his elbows. They can be cut shorter, twisted and fluted. Gary Zilik RV-6A N99PZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: control surface mounting
In a message dated 3/31/2000 6:48:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, billc(at)dancris.com writes: > I'm rigging my left aileron now. I did have the templates and made up the > little piece like George did. My problem is the plans and george both say > the length shown on the plan for the pushrod is good. When I put everything > together, my pushrod comes out about 1/8th inch too long to just drop in. > So, what is critical, the length of the pushrod or the 2.5" from the spar? > Needless to say, I have rechecked everything several times. Opinions?? > Bill Christie, RV8A Phoenix I thought about this myself and concluded that, if the aileron is in the neutral position and the bellcrank is in the neutral position, then make the pushrod fit and everything will be OK. Mine came out alright the first time. Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: control surface mounting
> >I'm rigging my left aileron now. I did have the templates and made up the >little piece like George did. My problem is the plans and george both say >the length shown on the plan for the pushrod is good. When I put everything >together, my pushrod comes out about 1/8th inch too long to just drop in. >So, what is critical, the length of the pushrod or the 2.5" from the spar? >Needless to say, I have rechecked everything several times. Opinions?? >Bill Christie, RV8A Phoenix Bill, I haven't got my aircraft finished yet, so there is a chance what I have to say will be all screwed up. If so, I'm sure someone else will jump in and correct me. The pushrod length, and bellcrank distance from the spar are just approximate starting points. You will probably have to make small adjustments to both of these dimensions when you put the wings on, and are rigging the controls to get the correct up and down travel of the ailerons. The RV series are designed to have much more up aileron travel than down aileron travel. This helps minimize the adverse yaw from aileron deflection, and contributes to the good handling RVs are known for (if the ailerons had the same amount of up and down travel, there would be more drag from the down aileron than from the up aileron, and the aircraft would tend to yaw in the wrong direction when initiating a turn). The amount of difference between the up and down travel is fine tuned by adjusting all four pushrod lengths during the final assembly stage, which of course will also move the bellcrank neutral position (i.e. the 2.5" dimension may change). I would build the pushrod to the length on the latest plans revision. Rig the aileron to align with the wing. Rig the flap to align with the aileron. Sort out the exact pushrod lengths later during final assembly. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (riveting fuselage skins) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wesley T Robinson" <wesleyt(at)twave.net>
Subject: It really does fly!
Date: Mar 31, 2000
News Flash! N223WR took its maiden flight today. After much perspiration, preparation and engine testing the winds were calm, the day was sunny and the time was right. Rock solid, no trim adjustments needed, Chevy engine purring away, all was right on the numbers. Only a little right rudder needed to be held to keep it straight, nothing a little rudder tab won't fix. Now to take the cowl off and check things twice and do it again. ;-) Thanks to all of the helpful hints and tips from the list. You guys have been very helpful. N223WR .5 hrs. total time Wesley Robinson WR Consulting wesleyt(at)twave.net FAX: 828-459-1992 name="Wesley Thomas Robinson.vcf" filename="Wesley Thomas Robinson.vcf" BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Robinson;Wesley;Thomas;Mr. FN:Wesley Thomas Robinson NICKNAME:Wes ORG:WR Consulting TITLE:Owner TEL;WORK;VOICE:828-459-1992 TEL;HOME;VOICE:828-396-3383 TEL;PAGER;VOICE:828-345-4280 TEL;WORK;FAX:828-459-1994 TEL;HOME;FAX:828-459-1994 ADR;WORK:;;5787 Petra Mill Road;Granite Falls;NC;28630;USA Road0D0AGranite Falls, NC 286300D0AUSA ADR;HOME:;;5787 Petra Mill Road;Granite Falls;NC;28630;USA Road0D0AGranite Falls, NC 286300D0AUSA EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:wesleyt(at)twave.net REV:20000401T025213Z END:VCARD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net>
Subject: Re: center seat belt attachment
Date: Mar 31, 2000
> On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell "drop > in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth > attachment? > D. J. Lauritzen put a slot for the fifth belt in my seat pad at the location I specified. She can be contacted through Cleveland Tools. Stan Blanton RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Subject: Re: Help with RV-6/6A F-6111 Stiffener Installation
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Also, I found on mine that they fit better by swapping the left and right pieces to the opposing sides. It couldn't hurt to give it a shot... Ed Bundy > > -6/6A builders: Since I can't find anything in the archives, I assume > > that I must be the only one who has had trouble getting that darn funny > > curved stiffener that is supposed to go in the overhang of the top skin > > forward of the F-606 bulkhead to fit. George O says in his video to just > > play with it and twist it. > Placement is not critical. Their purpose is to keep the skin from caving in if > some gomer leans on the plane with his elbows. > They can be cut shorter, twisted and fluted. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net
Subject: Re: where can I get a push to talk switch?
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Charlie: I purchased a switch from Avery for $12.00 for left stick and right stick a 7/8" cap. Page 64. Seems to be good quality, as always from Avery. Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB -Wiring Panel > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Lycoming web site
Lycoming has a good web site with pretty precise break in procedures as well as a trouble shooting guide and the latest poop on oil recomendations, use of auto gas, use of 100 LL in low compression engines, leaning, recommended cold weather procedures, maximum recommended oil temps, and lots of other things. Some of the particulars differ from my Lycoming Manual, maybe due to being more recent. The trouble shooting guide seems especially useful. WWW.LYCOMING.TEXTRON.COM Dave Beizer RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Imfairings(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Subject: Re: empennage fairing
Scott Thanks for the vote and the check. Stay in touch, I should have more "stuff" by mid or end of summer. Got the check, thank you! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: where can I get a push to talk switch?
Date: Mar 31, 2000
Chief Aircraft offer 3......$3.75......$7.00 & $9.45. Page 28, their catalog . 1-800-447-3408 WWW.chiefaircraft.com Derek Reed 6A engine inst. -----Original Message----- From: flyhars(at)ibm.net <flyhars(at)ibm.net> Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 8:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: where can I get a push to talk switch? > >Charlie: I purchased a switch from Avery for $12.00 for left stick and >right stick a 7/8" cap. Page 64. Seems to be good quality, as always from >Avery. >Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB -Wiring Panel >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
--- Scott wrote: > > Uh, you may not want to hard-wire the strobe to the > master. If you need > to turn off the strobes in fog or mist, you'd be > S.O.L. I believe what > Gary is using is that he has a seperate switch for > the tail strobe and > just leaves it in the on position 24/7. > Scott Scott is correct. It is a separate switch. If I had it to do over, I would use a Circuit Breaker that could be Pulled OFF when needed. I am using a separate Whelen Power supply for the strobes. There are a total of 3 strobes and 3 power supplies. There are 2 switches. One switch for the wing strobes and one for the tail strobe. The wing stobes are set up in the master - sync mode so that the flashes are synchronized with each other. The tail strobe runs free and is not syncronized with the wing strobes. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
Date: Mar 29, 2000
Subject: Re: where can I get a push to talk switch?
I bought two from Radio Shack for about $1.50 each. They're mounted right on my plastic caps and seem to be doing fine. RV-6 N985VU Maryland > >I want to put a simple hardware store cap in my control stick and drill and >fit a push to talk switch. I can't seem to find a PTT switch in either the >ACS or Wicks catalogs. Avery used to carry one, but just discontinued it. >Anyone know where I can get a simple PTT switch? Radio Shack? > >Steve Soule >Huntington, Vermont >RV-6A panel and FWF stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Imfairings(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Re: empennage fairing
Mike Sorry I missed your message. I'm new at this web thing and am flailing along as best I can. The RV4 fairing fits and looks like the RV6 fairing only the 6 is wider. They both have larger radii than Van's and you should only have some minor trimming to do. It is a three piece set, the large upper part, and two small ones under the horizontal. They are made with vinalester resin and "s" glass. The RV4 weighs 1 & 1/4 pounds. The cost is $115 + shipping and tax [?] . Just looked at this and apoligize for the nonsense, you haven't seen the RV6 so not much to compare to. I hope to get a web site set up so people can see what they look like. My policy is, if it won't work send it back and tell me whats wrong. There are fairly simple ways to fix contour problems. JUST DON'T HEAT IT! Bob Fairings Etc. IMFAIRINGS(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: center seat belt attachment
Stan Blanton wrote: > > On a related note. Is anyone aware whether or not the folks who sell > "drop > > in" RV-6 seats supply models for those of us who have installed a fifth > > attachment? > > > D. J. Lauritzen put a slot for the fifth belt in my seat pad at the > location I specified. > > She can be contacted through Cleveland Tools. Seems to me that if you have enough of you on the seat in front of the crotch strap that it requires padding, well,... your cojones must be bigger than mine :-) Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Probynne" <robynne(at)harare.iafrica.com>
Subject: Re: pulling my hair out by the primers
Date: Apr 01, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 12:19 PM Subject: RV-List: pulling my hair out by the primers > > Alright, I'm getting frustrated here. I picked up PPG's mil spec epoxy > primer...and a tech sheet on it locally. I read on the tech sheet that it > is not a vapor barrier. A call to PPG varified that the primer needs to be > topcoated. I have no intention of putting a FINISH coat on the INTERIOR of > my plane so next step....call Vans. 'We use sherwin williams wash primer on > the quickbuilds. GREAT, I said.....is it a vapor barrier? 'Don't think > so' Says they.... Then why bother priming if it doesn't stop corrosion? > says a getting frustrated new builder. 'Um, call sherwin williams'. So I > did....it needs to be topcoated to prevent corrosion, says Mr Sherwin > Williams. > There seems to be a widespread lack of understanding of wich sort of primer is suiteble as a stand allone anticorrosion coating I have also been cought out on this. I at first bought Randalls epoxy primer in South Africa wich cost me an arm and a leg. When this set of gallon tins was finnished I bought a local SA washprimer at a 1/3 of the cost and wich gives a much better result. The essence of problem is that the first has a filler mixed in -wich is probably talcum- resulting in a rough surface wich collects dirt and is porous. The wash primer leaves a smooth surface , provides better corrosion protection, can be applied thinnerand is more pleasant to use. Hope this information is of some use Jan Rijkers Zimbabwe RV6A in progress > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Probynne" <robynne(at)harare.iafrica.com>
Subject: Re: pulling my hair out by the primers
Date: Apr 01, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 12:19 PM Subject: RV-List: pulling my hair out by the primers > > Alright, I'm getting frustrated here. I picked up PPG's mil spec epoxy > primer...and a tech sheet on it locally. I read on the tech sheet that it > is not a vapor barrier. A call to PPG varified that the primer needs to be > topcoated. I have no intention of putting a FINISH coat on the INTERIOR of > my plane so next step....call Vans. 'We use sherwin williams wash primer on > the quickbuilds. GREAT, I said.....is it a vapor barrier? 'Don't think > so' Says they.... Then why bother priming if it doesn't stop corrosion? > says a getting frustrated new builder. 'Um, call sherwin williams'. So I > did....it needs to be topcoated to prevent corrosion, says Mr Sherwin > Williams. > > Alright, now I was really getting confused. Call aircraft spruce....they > check all kinds of stuff and come back with.....nope, no primers that are > also vapor barriers, they need topcoats. > > SO, those in the know....please tell me. Why should I bother priming the > interior of my aircraft with a substance that doesn't prevent corrosion?? > The primers I've heard most about on this list have only one purpose > according to the people I've spoken to......to give the finish coat a better > surface to bond to. > > Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Douglas Kohser <dckoh(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: where can I get a push to talk switch?
Cleveland Aircraft Tool sells a nice machined aluminum plug with a switch already installed for about $11. (800-368-1822) Doug Kohser Atlanta, Ga RV-6A, wiring/instruments > >I want to put a simple hardware store cap in my control stick and drill and >fit a push to talk switch. I can't seem to find a PTT switch in either the >ACS or Wicks catalogs. Avery used to carry one, but just discontinued it. >Anyone know where I can get a simple PTT switch? Radio Shack? > >Steve Soule >Huntington, Vermont >RV-6A panel and FWF stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Last flap question...
OK, this is really the last control surface question: George O. mentions drilling a hole through the inboard aileron bracket to facilitate installing the flaps when the wing is mated to the fuselage. This seems to make sense, but I couldn't find any mention of it in the manual or on the plans. Are people doing this, or is there some other way to get the hinge pin in there when access to the root end is limited by the fuse? Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: It really does fly!
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Wesley, CONGRATULATIONS !!!! & WELL DONE !!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (installing Baffling) Niantic, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Last flap question...
Date: Apr 01, 2000
I drilled this hole as George suggested. However, I found that leaving the hinge pin full length made it almost impossible to get the thing in. I ended up cutting the pin in half and inserting the other half from the inboard end of the flap. Probably a better way is to cut out several hinge segments near the center of the hinge and insert the pins from there - this was mentioned in an article in 18 yrs of the RVator. Whatever you do, make sure you write down the sequence of how you did things and package separately all the bolts, nuts, etc. needed for the flap and aileron assembly. Otherwise, you will be doing all that head-scratching all over again at final assembly. Good luck, Jerry Carter My RV-8A Building Site http://www.rv8asite.Homestead.com/mainpage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 8:33 AM Subject: RV-List: Last flap question... > > OK, this is really the last control surface question: > > George O. mentions drilling a hole through the inboard aileron bracket to > facilitate installing the flaps when the wing is mated to the fuselage. > This seems to make sense, but I couldn't find any mention of it in the manual > or on the plans. > > Are people doing this, or is there some other way to get the hinge pin in > there when access to the root end is limited by the fuse? > > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 #81125 > wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Tilted Panel
This may seem like a dumb question, but I don't understand why the instrument panel is tilted. Does the 8 degree tilt that people refer to when ordering their gyros refer to all RV models, or just certain ones? Wouldn't the taildraggers have a different tilt than the tri-gears? In any case, when the aircraft is in level flight, wouldn't the panel be level, regardless of whether it is a taildragger or a tri-gear? If the panel is not level in level flight, shouldn't it be?? George True RV-8, studying plans & drawings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Engine baffling
Hi, RE: Tieing together the engine baffle cylinder wraps with safety wire. If I don't have a straight run between the two fastening points on the wraps, How should I fasten the two pieces together using safety wire and 1/4" tubing? Is a bend in the middle of the tubing acceptable? -Glenn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Re: where can I get a push to talk switch?
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
I think I saw them at our local hardware store last week. Look for the stores that carry all the trays of collections. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** writes: > > I want to put a simple hardware store cap in my control stick and > drill and > fit a push to talk switch. I can't seem to find a PTT switch in > either the > ACS or Wicks catalogs. Avery used to carry one, but just > discontinued it. > Anyone know where I can get a simple PTT switch? Radio Shack? > > Steve Soule > Huntington, Vermont > RV-6A panel and FWF stuff > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tilted Panel
Date: Apr 01, 2000
>From: George True <true(at)uswest.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: RV-List: Tilted Panel >Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 08:18:16 -0700 > > > This may seem like a dumb question, but I don't understand why the >instrument panel is tilted. Does the 8 degree tilt that people refer to >when ordering their gyros refer to all RV models, or just certain ones? >Wouldn't the taildraggers have a different tilt than the tri-gears? In >any case, when the aircraft is in level flight, wouldn't the panel be >level, regardless of whether it is a taildragger or a tri-gear? If the >panel is not level in level flight, shouldn't it be?? > >George True >RV-8, studying plans & drawings > > George, It does seem rather odd, huh? I have standard gyros in my -8, and they work fine. I simply adjust the little airplane in the attitude indicator to rest on the horizon line while in level flight. I haven't noticed any unusual behaviour from it at all....even after many rolls and loops. We'll see how well they hold up over time, however. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: hal kempthorne <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Last flap question...
I know of one RV6 that has over 400 hours in five years with pins inserted from the middle of the flap, so it seems to work ok. The other way is clever but unworkable. One piece of advice I learned the hard way: always store all hinges complete with pin and both halves. The eyes get out of place otherwise. In the QB, the flaps are not shipped this way and I didn't store them this way so later the pins are very hard to get in even when split. I noticed one of the production planes at SJC has flaps held on with three separate short pieces of hinge. Of course, it is not aerobatic. hal Jerry Carter wrote: > > I ended up cutting the pin in half and inserting the other half from the > inboard end of the flap. Probably a better way is to cut out several hinge > segments near the center of the hinge and insert the pins from there - this > was mentioned in an article in 18 yrs of the RVator. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: tank skins
Listers: have any of you building an rv-8 had any alignment problems when mounting the tank skins? Both of my skins overlap the outboard stiffener by at least 1/4 of an inch and have a gap on the lower side that is just UGLY can you help? Glenn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Last flap question...
In a message dated 4/1/00 6:59:37 AM Pacific Standard Time, Kbalch1(at)aol.com writes: << Are people doing this, or is there some other way to get the hinge pin in there when access to the root end is limited by the fuse? >> Ken: I'm a long way from finished (flying) but I used a tip from the RVator and snipped a couple of eyes out of the middle of the flap hinges so that I can insert the pins in two pieces from the middle. I've seen this on several RVs and it seems to work good. I bent the inside ends of the pins up and used a couple of hinge eyes held to the flap brace with #6 screws and nutplates to secure the pins. I think this is mentioned somewhere in Van's manual also. Harry Crosby -6 finish kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Tilted Panel
i'm wondering the same thing right now. i have a bf goodrich attitude gyro with a 5 degree stamp on it. what degree is the panel in flight? anyone flying maybe could answer this one scott tampa 6a instruments bought, now i'm broke, again..... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2000
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Help with RV-6/6A F-6111 Stiffener Installation
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > > > -6/6A builders: Since I can't find anything in the archives, I assume > that I must be the only one who has had trouble getting that darn funny > curved stiffener that is supposed to go in the overhang of the top skin > forward of the F-606 bulkhead to fit. George O says in his video to just > play with it and twist it. Well, I've tried that 'till I'm blue in the face > and I still can't find a way to get it to fit anywhere near where the SC > drawings show it without forcing the skin to match it, which seems to me to > defeat the purpose of holding the skin in a natural curve. Any and all > suggestions will be most appreciated. > > Harry Crosby > -6 SB Finish Kit (forever at this rate) > Hi Harry I puzzled over the F6111 myself and many of our local builders have not bothered to install them. In the end they went in quite easy for me. 1) Bottom end of my F6111 is about 1/2 inch forward of F624. 2) Twist the F6111 as required to make it conform to skin line. Top end did not lie flat against F606. 3) At the top end my F6111 sits forward of the F606 bulkhead by about one inch or slightly more. 4) I modified the top end. I cut back the side flanges on the F6111 and made the end into a tab that folds down, rearward, towards the F606 bulkhead. Then I made a L shaped bracket that rivets to the F606 bulkhead and to the tab on the end of the F6111. Looks OK and is strong. George McNutt Langley B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: Airtech wingtip lights
I am installing the Airtech wingtip light bracket- the $149 kit that Van sells, that insets the light into the wingtip and covers it with a lexan lens that's supposed to blend in with the shape of the wingtip. I have no experience with fiberglass, so I'm looking for direction on how to proceed. I have the hole in the wingtip cut for the fiberglass light bracket. The hole is large enough so that about 1/8" to 1/4" of the inner flange of the bracket is exposed. I understand that I'm supposed to fill that gap with microballoons or some such filler. That's OK. My problem is the outermost surface of the bracket that's supposed to match up with the wingtip shape. The bracket matches reasonably well with the top & bottom surfaces of the wing tip, but the leading edge and outboard edge don't match well. In otherwords, it needs to seat further out to match up with the wingtip shape. So, I guess, the outer surface of the bracket is going to have to be built up & sanded to match the curves of the wingtip. Or do I have to do some grinding on the bracket to make it extend further out & forward? Chopping away parts of the bracket's flange should allow it to seat further out. If I have to build it up, exactly how do I do that? In some areas it must be more than 1/8" below the wingtip shape. That's a lot of filling. Can that be done with microballoons or do I have to put some glass fabric on there? Also, if I build up the outer surface a lot, then the seating of the lexan lense will have to be built up too, because the shape of the lexan lense is supposed to match the wingtip shape also. Have I gone wrong somewhere, or is this just normal fiberglass fitting work? Gee, I like aluminum. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Looking for 200HP Engine
From: b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com>
I am looking for a 200HP engine, any condition is ok. With or without accessories Bruce Green RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John B. Holmgreen" <j32619(at)innova.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming burn-in period?
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Jim, The information you are looking for is in SI 1427B. If you can't find a copy, drop me a note and I will fax you a copy if you like. John Holmgreen Clinton, SC -6A flying ----- Original Message ----- From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 11:09 AM Subject: RV-List: Lycoming burn-in period? > > > Can anyone tell me what the skinny is on your first few hours on your brand new > Lycoming? > > I understand from friends that I need to run it FULL THROTTLE for the first few > hours to get it to seat properly. This is going to make initial checkout rather > painful, and windy to say the least : ) > > - Jim Andrews > > RV-8AQ ( Fuselage - panel ) > N89JA (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Subject: Re: Tilted Panel
Date: Apr 01, 2000
> This may seem like a dumb question, but I don't understand why the > instrument panel is tilted. Does the 8 degree tilt that people refer to > when ordering their gyros refer to all RV models, or just certain ones? > Wouldn't the taildraggers have a different tilt than the tri-gears? In > any case, when the aircraft is in level flight, wouldn't the panel be > level, regardless of whether it is a taildragger or a tri-gear? If the > panel is not level in level flight, shouldn't it be?? I believe 8 degrees is pretty standard for the RV series, but you'd want to confirm this for the particular model you're building. From your signature, I see you're building an -8, and it will indeed have an 8 degree tilt. The tilt is relative to level flight, so it's the same for either landing gear configuration. What happens if you use an uncompensated gyro? Good question. I called Kelly Manufacturing (the people who make RC Allen instruments) about the tilt in mine. They told me that if the panel was tilted, you absolutely needed the gyro to be compensated for it. That would good enough for me at the time, so I got the right instrument. If you haven't ordered them yet, it's an easy decision. BTW- only the Attitude gyro needs to be compensated (and maybe the turn coordinator???), and not the DG. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (I HATE Fiberglass) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Fwd: RV-8 for sale
I received the following info about an RV-8 for sale. Please reply directly to Robin, at blabrash(at)rockisland.com I don't know else about the aircraft. Kevin >From: "Barbara LaBrash" <blabrash(at)rockisland.com> >To: >Subject: RV-8 for sale >Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:14:08 -0800 >X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 > >Kevin, > >I have an RV-8, all metal work finished (99%), needs engine, prop, >instruments, avionics, upholstery, paint. Was fast built kit and >finished by AP/IA mechanic. Perfect workmanship. Set up for 0-360 >180 HP. $25,000 U.S. If you know of anyone who is looking, this >one is a gem. > >Thanks, > >Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 01, 2000
"Question on Stab and Fin Final Assembly..." (Mar 29, 8:51am)
Subject: Re: Question on Stab and Fin Final Assembly...
>-------------- >Hi Matt, >I too fully built (all of) my assemblies with clecoes, bolts and whatever; >then disassembled, primed and final assembled with rivets. I did place >everything back in the fixture, aligned it exactly (as best I could), and >riveted. I can say that my test for accuracy came when, after all riveting >was complete; I removed one corner attach point to the fixture and looked >for movement of the airplane part. On the tail pieces I had no discernible >movement; on the wings I had less that .020" movement (at one corner ... >that's total warp in the wing). My suggestion is to re-fixture for best >alignment. > >Cheers, >Larry E James >Bellevue, WA (Seattle) Harmon Rocket II -soon to start fuselage- >larryj(at)oz.net >-------------- Hi Larry, Thanks for the msg. Yup, it appears that even aside from the "straightness" affect of having the stabs in the jig during riveting, it is much easier to rivet the assemblies in the jig because you don't have to hold the bucking bar, rivet gun, AND the assembly all at one time. In any case, fin #2 (circa 2000) has turned out much nicer than fin #1 (circa 1988). Its amazing how much patience a person can learn in 12 years... ;-) Somebody wrote me in response to my question and asked to the affect, "Geeze Matt, you've been working on your RV-4 since 1988 and you're just now riveting your stabs...". :-) Hee hee, that's real funny, pal. I've got my wings done and fuse ready to wire the instruments and hang the engine too! A shiny new, non-dented tail just seemed like it needed to be constructed as part of the project. Heck, there just really isn't enough things for me to do on the firewall-forward to keep me busy! ;-) Matt Dralle RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be... -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: New RV-4 Cowlings For Sale - PRICE REDUCTION!
RV-4 Builders & Flyers, I got a couple of nibbles on the RV-4 cowlings I put up for sale last week but they are still available. I need the space and want them out of here so I've dropped the price on each of them by $100! It's a heck of a deal so snap these babys up!!! Please! Matt Dralle RV-4 #1763 ========================================================================== Circa 1988 RV-4 Cowling ----------------------- - New, Never Used, Van's Finish Kit Issue - Small Intake - Long-style, Requires Prop Extension - Polyester/fiberglass, Gellcoated - Includes misc. fiberglass pieces, but not hinges, etc. - O320 Only? - $250 + Shipping + Crating (was $350!) http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/88Cowl1.jpg http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/88Cowl2.jpg http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/88Cowl3.jpg Circa 1993 RV-4 Cowling ----------------------- - New, Never Used, Ordered Direct From Van's - Large Intake - Long-style, Requires Prop Extension - Polyester/fiberglass, Gellcoated - Includes misc. fiberglass pieces, but not hinges, etc. - O320 or O360 - $300 + Shipping + Crating (was $400!) http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/93Cowl1.jpg http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/93Cowl2.jpg http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/93Cowl3.jpg ========================================================================== > RV-4 Builders and Flyers, > > I recently purchased a Constant Speed Prop for my RV-4 project and no > longer need my old-style Cowlings. I would like to sell them and have > the information below on each and have also included pictures of > them. I'm willing to ship them where ever you'd like, but any costs > incurred will be your responsibility. I can accept Visa or M/C for a 3% > additional charge. > > Please respond via email to the address below if you have any questions > or would like to buy one or both: > > dralle(at)matronics.com > > > Thank you, > > Matt Dralle > RV-4 Builder, #1763 > -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Sandra Adams <sadams(at)pingobingo.com>
Subject: Tilted panel
I've been thinking about this question and also have been advised that most people add some additional shim (1/8 inch?) to the front of the stabilizer. My question: What is the optimum angle of attack of the fuselage? What angle are most people flying at? Bob Adams, finishing -6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath)
Subject: Re: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne
ss
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Hope you got this figured out before you drilled any holes. In a five point belt system, the job of the crotch strap is only hold the lap belt DOWN LOW on your pelvic. During impact with forward air speed the seat cushion will compress and allow the pelvic to rotate, much as it dose when you slouch down in your favorite chair. That rotation is what does the dirty deed. It's called compression fracture to the lower spine In the event of a crash a properly installed belt can mean the difference between walking away and never walking again. I'd do all I could to find out what the Manufacture has to say, but short of that I can testify that in a side view, the included angle between the crotch strap and the lap belt should be about 90 deg' . TWO CENTS............. Well maybe THREE... JDHeath Planing/Lurking ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 11:33 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne ss > > Sure can, but can you accommodate individual variation in where the fifth > belt comes through? In other words, if I give you the measurements, can you > build to that specification? I'll bet everyone is putting these damn fifth > belts in slightly different spots. I got the belt from Van's but no > instructions and no advice except that lots of others had done it lots of > different ways. > > Steve Soule > > > -----Original Message----- > From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com [mailto:OrndorffG(at)aol.com] > Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 8:54 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: center seat belt attachment, > was: Pacific Aero Harness > > > Steve, > If you let me know you are using 5 point harnesses, I > build your seats to > accomodate that. > > Becki Orndorff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Camille Hawthorne" <camillehawthorne(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: women building RVs?
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Well, the garage has been cleaned out and the -6A empennage is on its way. I've been watching the list for over a year now, and my husband has given in and ordered the first section. I know nothing about rivets, but I have reserved my N number and have a hundred paint schemes already planned. (anyone ever seen a purple RV?) I've always been the type to seek challenges that are way over my head, but so far most things have turned out well, and have been just a matter of gathering the right information. I'm wondering though if anyone knows of any other women building RVs? I'm lucky to have a very patient and talented husband who supports me in my latest endeavor, along with many friends who work in the aviation maintenace and modification field who are willing to help out where they can. But I know that I will be very grateful for the help that I anticipate receiving from the list. So, Bill Shook, have you tried rivetting insulated cookie sheets? Camille Hawthorne Learning to spell empennage N5YR reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Tilted panel
I'll chime in a little bit more on my own original question. Right now, I am looking at the 1/4 scale fuselage cutaway drawing for the RV-8 (drawing #19). With the fuselage level, the panel is indeed tilted forward about 8 degrees. It's very obvious when looking at this drawing. My question again is, why? The only reason I can see is perhaps for better visibility of the panel. In most pictures I see of RV-8's in flight, it appears that the top of the panel is about even with the pilot's neck or chin. From this angle, maybe it would be harder to read instruments on the lower half of the panel, and maybe a slight forward tilt would improve this quite a bit. I am sure a quick phone call to Van's would net me a definitive answer, but it's the weekend, and inquiring minds just want to know... right now!! :-) George True RV-8, studying plans Sandra Adams wrote: > > I've been thinking about this question and also have been advised that > most people add some additional shim (1/8 inch?) to the front of the > stabilizer. My question: What is the optimum angle of attack of the > fuselage? What angle are most people flying at? > Bob Adams, finishing -6A > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: Tilted Panel
George, The reason the panel is tilted is so the forward top skin will lay flat. The top of your firewall is tilted forward too. If you notice when the fuselage is level, the forward top skin slopes down. Since the tailwheel and the tri-gear use the same fuselage, the tilt is the same in both. Larry Olson Cave Creek, AZ RV6 - installing instruments (Sigma-Tek 8 degree AH on 30 week back order) > This may seem like a dumb question, but I don't understand why the >instrument panel is tilted. Does the 8 degree tilt that people refer to >when ordering their gyros refer to all RV models, or just certain ones? >Wouldn't the taildraggers have a different tilt than the tri-gears? In >any case, when the aircraft is in level flight, wouldn't the panel be >level, regardless of whether it is a taildragger or a tri-gear? If the >panel is not level in level flight, shouldn't it be?? > >George True >RV-8, studying plans & drawings > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: where can I get a push to talk switch?
>> I want to put a simple hardware store cap in my control stick and >> drill and >> fit a push to talk switch. I can't seem to find a PTT switch in >> either the >> ACS or Wicks catalogs. Avery used to carry one, but just >> discontinued it. >> Anyone know where I can get a simple PTT switch? Radio Shack? Any push button will work. We have some really tiny ones you can see at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/switch.html#s708-1 Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( The only time you don't fail is the last ) ( time you try something, and it works. ) ( One fails forward toward success. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
>> Uh, you may not want to hard-wire the strobe to the >> master. If you need >> to turn off the strobes in fog or mist, you'd be >> S.O.L. I believe what >> Gary is using is that he has a seperate switch for >> the tail strobe and >> just leaves it in the on position 24/7. >> Scott How about a single pole, double throw oil pressure switch? Ground the common terminal. Use the normally open contact (closes while engine is running) to energize the hour meter from the battery bus (hour meter runs even if master switch is off. use normally closed terminal to illuminate a "LOW OIL PRESSURE" warning light . . . some folk hook a small buzzer onto this light as well. Power this circuit from the essential bus so that it will give you ground warning for either alternate feed switch -/or/- the battery master switch being left on after engine shutdown . . . doesn't need to be a really loud thing, just enough to be noticed with the engine not running. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( The only time you don't fail is the last ) ( time you try something, and it works. ) ( One fails forward toward success. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: alternator belt tension
Hi, How do I know when the alternator belt is tensioned properly? Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Airtech wingtip lights
In a message dated 4/1/00 2:16:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com writes: << I am installing the Airtech wingtip light bracket- the $149 kit that Van sells, that insets the light into the wingtip and covers it with a lexan lens that's supposed to blend in with the shape of the wingtip. I have no experience with fiberglass, so I'm looking for direction on how to proceed. I have the hole in the wingtip cut for the fiberglass light bracket. The hole is large enough so that about 1/8" to 1/4" of the inner flange of the bracket is exposed. I understand that I'm supposed to fill that gap with microballoons or some such filler. That's OK. My problem is the outermost surface of the bracket that's supposed to match up with the wingtip shape. The bracket matches reasonably well with the top & bottom surfaces of the wing tip, but the leading edge and outboard edge don't match well. In otherwords, it needs to seat further out to match up with the wingtip shape. So, I guess, the outer surface of the bracket is going to have to be built up & sanded to match the curves of the wingtip. Or do I have to do some grinding on the bracket to make it extend further out & forward? Chopping away parts of the bracket's flange should allow it to seat further out. If I have to build it up, exactly how do I do that? In some areas it must be more than 1/8" below the wingtip shape. That's a lot of filling. Can that be done with microballoons or do I have to put some glass fabric on there? Also, if I build up the outer surface a lot, then the seating of the lexan lense will have to be built up too, because the shape of the lexan lense is supposed to match the wingtip shape also. Have I gone wrong somewhere, or is this just normal fiberglass fitting work? Gee, I like aluminum. >> I think you're better off massaging it to fit from the start, as opposed to building it up. On mine, I ground the inner radius of the wingtip as supplied by Van and the outer radius of the drop-in light kit to take care of the fit problem you are encountering. Then I attached the fairings with a flox/epoxy mix and added a layer of glass on the inside (probably overkill). Finally, I filled the gap you mentioned with flox/epoxy and added one layer of the thinnest fiberglass I could find over the seam. A little fill and sand, and you're done. Then you get to fit the lexan lens... KB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John B. Holmgreen" <j32619(at)innova.net>
Subject: Re: alternator belt tension
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Glenn, Service Instruction 1129A gives the methods: 1. Torque method for 3/8 " belt; 11 to 13 ft. lbs. torque at the nut that holds the pulley on the alternator for a new belt and 7-9 ft. lbs for a used belt. 2. Deflection method; attach a small spring scale to the belt 1/2 way between the ring gear and alternator pulley and pull 14 lbs for a new belt and 10 lbs for a used belt. The deflection should be 5/16". If less your belt it too tight. Hope you can find a copy, if not, reply and I'll get you a copy John Holmgreen Clinton, SC -6A flying > > Hi, > > How do I know when the alternator belt is tensioned properly? > > Thanks, > Glenn Gordon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
Date: Apr 01, 2000
> >Well, the garage has been cleaned out and the -6A empennage is on its way. >I've been watching the list for over a year now, and my husband has given >in >and ordered the first section. I know nothing about rivets, but I have >reserved my N number and have a hundred paint schemes already planned. >(anyone ever seen a purple RV?) > >I've always been the type to seek challenges that are way over my head, but >so far most things have turned out well, and have been just a matter of >gathering the right information. I'm wondering though if anyone knows of >any >other women building RVs? I'm lucky to have a very patient and talented >husband who supports me in my latest endeavor, along with many friends who >work in the aviation maintenace and modification field who are willing to >help out where they can. But I know that I will be very grateful for the >help that I anticipate receiving from the list. > >So, Bill Shook, have you tried rivetting insulated cookie sheets? > >Camille Hawthorne >Learning to spell empennage >N5YR reserved > Camille, Yes, there are other women RV'ers. Sue Rodin here in Albuquerque built an RV4 and even flew it in IAC competition. I'm sure there are others! Oh and yes, there is one VERY purple RV4 that I know of. I often fly formation for $30,000 breakfasts with my buddy Dan Boudro. His machine is 100% purple, complete with an airbrushed Roadrunner on the tail. So, you could stick with the purple idea, but put the Coyote on the tail and chase Dan around the sky. If you live in Canada, you could also change your registration number to "ACME". HAH! Have fun, and welcome to our wacky world. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 67 hours & working on paint schemes too! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
In a message dated 4/1/00 2:22:48 PM Pacific Standard Time, camillehawthorne(at)hotmail.com writes: << I know nothing about rivets, but I have reserved my N number and have a hundred paint schemes already planned. (anyone ever seen a purple RV?)>> No, but at Livermore, CA one of our guys has a lavender Glasair IIS (but we razz him about it being "titty pink") <> We just had an impromptu lunch last weekend at the Spirit of San Luis (Obispo) restaurant with Alan Tolle and his wife. She was very much involved in the building of half a dozen RVs and was really jazzed telling us about the projects they had done over the years. While anyone building an aircraft can lay claim to being unique, regardless of gender, you are just extra special. I think it's great. -GV (RV-6A N1GV 290 hrs TTAE) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
Hi!!Camille:: Sure have seen purple RVs...The AP has a rather well known RV-4...."Purple Passion" owned by Claudio Tonnini...It has flown to the Cape of Good Hope(bottom of South America) twice and came in third in class in the last Kitty Hawk to Osk. race(got beat by a couple of high powered Long -EZs)...Best on your new project, Jim Brown, NJ, 2-RV-3s and 1-RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Wing Tip VOR Antenna
Date: Apr 01, 2000
List: Are there any RV-Sites that show Wing Tip VOR Antenna installation? Tom in Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: RE: Mag switch relay
snip > The combination of switches and push button we > publish addresses that issue directly. The > right mag switch was OFF in order to crank the > engine. It was not moved to ON until after the > engine was running. The auto-kill relay described > above is capable of producing the very action we > set out to prevent. > > snip > >Laird replies: > >Bob, > >You teach fault tolerance in the aeroelectric connection. In the case of your two toggle mag switch scheme, what happens if someone forgets (I know this never happens) to follow the "Start Checklist" and throws both switches up and pushes the starter button. Probably a healthy kick back that could cost $$$ to replace the starter ring. That doesn't seem very fault tolerant. >You could solve the problem by wiring the starter to not start if it right mag is up (on). But, if you ever encounter a condition in flight where you need to restart the engine, you would have to remember to turn the r mag off. I bet I'd forget during the "urgent desire" to get the engine started. This is exactly how we wire 'em . . . starter is cannot be energized while the right mag is on. I've heard the "urgent" desire argument many, many times before. Consider this: Most engine stopage in flight is due to fuel starvation . . . loosing one ignition doesn't stop the engine, breaking a crank or rod stops if for good. Assuming that one looses power in flight, there is genrally plenty of time to get things going again . . . the prop windmills on every airplane I've flown and all I needed to do was restore fuel flow. For cases where the prop does stop, you still have plenty of time to do a leasurely restoration of fuel flow and get the starter working. However, if you're low and slow and the engine stops, and depending on how long it takes to resolve the fuel flow problem, one might be better advised to be looking for the softest rocks as opposed to concentrating on a fuel problem . . . It generally takes longer to resolve the flow problem than it takes to flip some switches. If you're THAT close to the ground, taking off your pilot's hat to replace it with a mechanic's hat may be a poorer choice than concentrating on a graceful arrival with the earth. >By wiring a relay to ground the r mag during starter operation, I've eliminated the possibility of an inadvertent r mag switch on during start up. You did make a good point that there is a condition where you MIGHT get a cylinder to light off after you remove the current from the starter button, but I think that would be really rare. How many airplane have the key start switch where this could happen. Thousands, I'd bet. We'd seen enough broken castings at B&C to begin working a solution . . . accidents due to mechanical failure are small compared to pilot inattention or distraction. We were seeing plenty of broken starters and I've yet to hear of someone who bent his airplane because of a failed attempt to engage a starter after properly diagnosing and fixing the original problem. >So...I will leave my grounding relay in my airplane, but change the Start Checklist to leave the right mag off during start. But in the case I forget, I'll still be protecting the starter ring. That works too. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( The only time you don't fail is the last ) ( time you try something, and it works. ) ( One fails forward toward success. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Well, as the newly appointed RV-list cookie sheet expert, I can tell you that the plastic coated type don't work nearly as well as the plain jane cheapo type. I can also tell you that beer cans rivet a bit 'oil canny' whereas stainless steel rulers make for wonderfully solid rivet joints. Since my empennage arrived two weeks ago, I must admit I mostly rivet alclad aluminum now. Sometimes I get to rivet the same hole twice (or thrice) though. I now am proudly looking at my finish horizontal stab and vertical stab sitting up here in my home office. Airplane parts leaning up against the wall in my house.....I like that, I like it alot. As to women building RV's, Van's told me there is one in Australia who built what was said to be a very very nice plane. Melissa (my sig other) is helping me out, so I guess you could call her a builder too...though she's only helped a bit due to work schedule. So, I only have one request....please, please don't build yours to much better than mine.....I'm just not sure my male ego could take the shot. :-) > > So, Bill Shook, have you tried rivetting insulated cookie sheets? > > Camille Hawthorne > Learning to spell empennage > N5YR reserved > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Engine problem
My O-320 has a little over 10 hrs. on it. It will stumble/misses after it has been thoroughly warmed, a half an hour or more. It will do it occasionally, not continuously, just now and again. It is most noticable when changing power on approach. If I put on quiet a bit of power it straightens up. A mag was suspected and one did not test out. I replaced it. But the problem has reappeared after a couple of hours of flying it yesterday. Another mechanic suggested the carburetor. I would think that would be a very consistent problem as a opposed to one that appears to be intermittent. Could the mags being heated up cause the coil to break down and miss fire? Any suggestion are very welcome... This is taking the fun out of this otherwise fun machine... Have Great Day! Denny ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
Judy Stocks in Lubbock, Tx built a 6 or 6a. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Engine baffling
Glenn & Judi wrote: > > Hi, > RE: Tieing together the engine baffle cylinder wraps with safety wire. > > If I don't have a straight run between the two fastening points on the > wraps, How should I fasten the two pieces together using safety wire and > 1/4" tubing? Is a bend in the middle of the tubing acceptable? > > -Glenn > > _ Glenn, I used the plastic tubing and safety wire. Was never real happy with the fit and was worried that the tube would rub against the oil return tubes. A local builder/flyer told me to loose the wires and install threaded rod instead. This is what I did. The rod can be bent to miss the inter cylinder baffles and the rocker box drain tubes. IMHO a far superior way to go. Gary Zilik N99PZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: RV- WING REFLEX
ANYONE KNOW IF REFLEX HAS BEEN TRIED ON RV-WINGS AND IF IT GAVE MORE SPEED OR WHAT? THE KITFOX THAT I USED TO OWN WAS A LITTLE FASTER USING REFLEX OF A COUPLE OF DEGREES. THANKS MIKE [RV-4] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine problem
Date: Apr 01, 2000
>My O-320 has a little over 10 hrs. on it. It will stumble/misses after it >has been thoroughly warmed, a half an hour or more. It will do it >occasionally, not continuously, just now and again. It is most noticable >when changing power on approach. If I put on quiet a bit of power it >straightens up. > >A mag was suspected and one did not test out. I replaced it. But the >problem has reappeared after a couple of hours of flying it yesterday. >Another mechanic suggested the carburetor. I would think that would be a >very consistent problem as a opposed to one that appears to be >intermittent. > >Could the mags being heated up cause the coil to break down and miss fire? >Any suggestion are very welcome... This is taking the fun out of this >otherwise fun machine... > > >Have Great Day! >Denny Denny, Pat Kirkpatrick's O-320 does this sometimes, but I've only experienced it while flying with him when the power is pulled back, and it's hot. Hmmm...sound familiar? It has never stopped completely, but certainly does get one's attention. Things I would check if it were my engine: 1. Are blast cooling tubes putting cold plenum air onto both mags? Sure, this isn't absolutely required, but those things get HOT and anything that can be done to lesson the thermal stress seems like a good idea. I used some corrugated plastic conduit, bent and formed while hot and RTV'd to the back of the baffles. 2. Is the gascolator getting too hot? Perhaps you're just getting some fuel vapor in the lines. Are all the firewall forward fuel lines protected/insulated with firesleeve? 3. Pull the plugs and look for any obvious issues such as uneven coloring, excessive lead fouling (I KNOW about that one), oil contamination, etc. 4. Are all plug wires secure and not chafing on anything? Inspect each plug lead for cracks, signs of arcing or burning. 5. Check torque on the exhaust nuts. Also check security of the carb bowl to the carb body and all induction tubes, couplings and clamps. An induction leak can lead to erratic mixture control. 6. If/when it happens again, turn the boost pump on pronto, and see what the fuel pressure does. My engine has stumbled like this only once, upon startup, when the engine was heat soaked from a previous flight about 30 minutes earlier. Once I turned on the boost pump, the fuel pressure stabilized and all was well. That's about all I can think of right now. I'm sure there will be other ideas out there. Good luck! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2000
From: n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com>
Subject: SNF2K
It's time to unsubscribe from the list and start getting packed for SNF. I plan to first fly from Portland, OR to Chicago (Palwaukee) to pick up my brother. He works for Navtech (auto GPS) and will bring a laptop and equipment for some airborn test gathering ("turn right next exit..."!). So perhaps we will actually fly "IFR" in my VFR equipped -6A. In the spirit of my third trip to SNF in N3773 I picked up on that new Globe Swift and wrote a message on my underwing (in the words of Smokey Ray) "RV's RULE". Look me up if you're there, the only one, I'm sure, with the peeling checkerboard stripes. Kevin -6A 450+hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
Date: Apr 02, 2000
I saw Judy's -6A last November at a fly-in. She did an excellent job of building and it's definitely a show winner. She flew in with several other RV's from the Lubbock Tx area. Says "Judy in Deskies" across the nose which is a play off the song "Judy in Disguise". Very Nice lady. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 10:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: women building RVs? > > > Judy Stocks in Lubbock, Tx built a 6 or 6a. > > Gary Zilik > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2000
From: Larry & Karen Gooding <GOODING(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
Camille - Welcome! What a wonderful introduction! Though I am more of a "low and slow with the door open" type flier, and have pretty much determined that the 88 mph cruise of my PA-17 is about as fast as I can think, I'm thrilled to be helping Larry build his RV-6. I will be looking forward to your postings! Everywhere I have gone in aviation men have encouraged and helped me every step of the way, and I'm sure this list will be no exception to you. Karen Gooding PZA-17 PJ-3 The Bucking Bar Queen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: RE: new birth
Date: Apr 02, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Karl Schilling [SMTP:k_schilling(at)iquest.net] Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 08:06 Subject: new birth I have been told by a friend of mine that people were asking for info on a RV-8 w/a0320. I have a recent completion,first flight 1-15 00. It's has a conical mount 0-320 w/a pacesetter 200 68/69 prop, 160 H.P. Empty weight 1019 lbs. Basic VFR insts.,w/garmin250XL,EIS engine insts.,Navaid wing leveler. Numbers so far w/about 45+hrs.are as follows. Static rpm 2150, 2500 rpm at 3000 msl 24" mp 175 mph. At 2600 rpm just under 190. Measured fuel burn at 2500 rpm 9.3 gal per hr. Engine is still quite tight and I think it will be a while longer for it to come in. If you would like to see what it looks like go to www.globeswift.com, scroll down to Karl's RV-8. I plan on being at Sun& Fun with the airplane, N711KN. Hope to see a bunch of you there. Still smiling MP reading is off some, I am still calabrating the inst. Karl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: RE: new birth
Date: Apr 02, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Karl Schilling [SMTP:k_schilling(at)iquest.net] Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 08:06 Subject: new birth I have been told by a friend of mine that people were asking for info on a RV-8 w/a0320. I have a recent completion,first flight 1-15 00. It's has a conical mount 0-320 w/a pacesetter 200 68/69 prop, 160 H.P. Empty weight 1019 lbs. Basic VFR insts.,w/garmin250XL,EIS engine insts.,Navaid wing leveler. Numbers so far w/about 45+hrs.are as follows. Static rpm 2150, 2500 rpm at 3000 msl 24" mp 175 mph. At 2600 rpm just under 190. Measured fuel burn at 2500 rpm 9.3 gal per hr. Engine is still quite tight and I think it will be a while longer for it to come in. If you would like to see what it looks like go to www.globeswift.com, scroll down to Karl's RV-8. I plan on being at Sun& Fun with the airplane, N711KN. Hope to see a bunch of you there. Still smiling MP reading is off some, I am still calabrating the inst. Karl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RE: new birth
Karl, Congratulations! You must be very proud. I am almost there. Did an engine run to check for leaks. Painting is next. See you at SUN-N-FUN! Joe #80125 Karl Schilling wrote: > I have a recent completion,first flight 1-15 00. It's has a > conical mount 0-320 w/a pacesetter 200 68/69 prop, 160 H.P. > > I plan on being at Sun& Fun with the airplane, N711KN. > Hope to see a bunch of you there. Still smiling > MP reading is off some, I am still calabrating the inst. > Karl > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Hi Camille! This is my first message to the list...I usually just read over Tom's shoulder. I have been working with Tom in the "Hangar", organizing, sorting, bucking...holding that little wooden block when he back drills (got drilled once...owe!), etc... I designed some panels for Becki Orndorf to insert into our seat back cushions...(Becki does excellent work). I am also in charge of the picture taking and album organizing. We work with a short "to do" list so I feel like we are getting alot accomplished since we got our kit Dec 27th, 1999. We are working on the right wing right now. It's feels good to accomplish each step....can't wait till we're flying! Good Luck! Cathy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV- WING REFLEX
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Mike, While straightening and deburring the main wing ribs for my RV-9A, I noticed that the top of the wing from about mid-cord on back has a slightly concave shape. Is this considered reflex or does it just refer to control surface rigging? Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Wings -----Original Message----- ANYONE KNOW IF REFLEX HAS BEEN TRIED ON RV-WINGS AND IF IT GAVE MORE SPEED OR WHAT? THE KITFOX THAT I USED TO OWN WAS A LITTLE FASTER USING REFLEX OF A COUPLE OF DEGREES. THANKS MIKE [RV-4] ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2000
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Engine Problem
Brian, I have a plenum on the engine. I have not installed blast tubes on the Mags. I have had a series of ignition problems. I had a mag on the left and a timing unit for the electronic ignition in the right mag postion. The left mag was an older mag and it failed.....even though old it may have failed due to heat as I think of it now. I replaced the mag and installed a new harness. Run-up and a a short flight were fine. On the second flight it studdered again. With the help of a friend and the cowl off we did a series of runs. Around 2400 rpm it would back fire and almost quit while running on the electronic ignition. The electronic timing unit was leaking oil around the shaft. Not willing to have the electronic timing unit reworked, I replaced it with a mag and a new harness. Test flight was fine. Friday I flew it 2 hours straight without landing. Every thing was smooth except for the no. 3 CHT was considerably higher then the others, but within limits. Saturday is our local pilots breakfast. I took off about 6 am after a fellow -6 builder flying his Cherokee. We had about 20 miles to fly. I made 2 wide 360s around him, flew a little formation and then landed before him. That was to give him some idea what he had to look forward to. Great fun! It ran like it should. It was a short and sweet flight. After breakfast I flew back home and all went well. After landing I decided to takeoff again and go to another airport. As I leveled off it started its shuddering again. AS I headed back to the airport I did a mag check, other then loss of rpm on each mag, I couldn't isolate it to a mag. The boost pump was on all the time during this flight. On down wind as I reduced power for flaps, it sounded like it was going to quit. I advanced power and it picked up again. All the way down it studdered with me doing the power on, power retard thing. Gasolator is mounted in the wing root, so ther should be no problem there. All lines are firesleeved. Harnesses are new. Carburetor was rebuilt with the engine with the engine rebuild by Hatch Engines of Powersport fame. The breathing was modified by Hatch. It was put on a dyno and run in. They reported it produced 170 hp plus. As I said before it has a little over 10 hrs on it. My boost pump does not seem to change the pressure reading normally. On the ground, engine pump runs 3 - 4 psi, with the boost pump on or off. I was at 6000 ft. (good flying )Friday when I noticed the fuel pressure at zero. Putting the boost pump on brought it went back to 2 psi. No engine studdering problem during this period or this flight. This next week I will check all the things you suggested, Brian. I will check anything others have to suggest also. All help is welcome. This has taken most of the fun of flying it. I can just imagine dead sticking into one of Oregon's soft fields or worse! I will install the blast tubes on the mags and on the engine fuel pump this next week. Thanks for the help! Have Great Day! Denny ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Panel Tilt
Date: Apr 02, 2000
After reading the posts to the list and a call from a friend building a RV 8 QB regarding the tilt question I called Van's and was advised that the RV 4-6-6A-8-8A all have the 8 degree tilt. When I built my RV 6 in 90-92, to my knowledge the question never came up so I have a standard Sigma-Tek A/H. It has performed well except for a small glitch during the first fifty hours which was corrected on warranty. It does however take maximum adjustment for the pictorial airplane. I know of several other builders who are also flying with the standard gyro. The difference in cost for the 8 degree Sigma-Tek is approx 65.00 so I guess the bottom line is considering the money we are spending for a IFR panel we should go with the correct gyro. I will have one in my 6A. The question on proper break-in for our new or overhauled engines has come up again. This has been covered many times and is in the achieves. As it is so critical to the long term health of the engine here again are some guide lines that I have used over the years. Be sure you have straight mineral oil for break-in. Avoid ground running as much as possible. ( a real tough one when preparing for initial flight.) Reduce to 75 % as soon as practical after take-off climbing at 120 mph indicated. Stay at lower altitudes in cruise on short flights to avoid long reduced power decants. Try to keep the power up as close to 75% as practical in cruise. ( Another tough one as this will give indicated speeds up to 185mph with a 180 constant speed combination, a bit swift for the first flight.) Fly at 75% up to fifty hours or until oil consumption has stabilized. This is the last sentence in Lycomings instructions on break-in. As a suggestion if we all put WWW.LYCOMING.TEXTRON.COM into our address books and refer to it for any related engine questions we could save a lot of space on this list. Bye the way many thanks to those who responded to my query on the trim indicator and I apologize for not being more detailed on the type which again added to the space on the list. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Problem
Date: Apr 02, 2000
> > >Brian, I have a plenum on the engine. I have not installed blast tubes on >the Mags. I have had a series of ignition problems. I had a mag on the >left and a timing unit for the electronic ignition in the right mag >postion. The left mag was an older mag and it failed.....even though old it >may have failed due to heat as I think of it now. I replaced the mag and >installed a new harness. Run-up and a a short flight were fine. > >On the second flight it studdered again. With the help of a friend and the >cowl off we did a series of runs. Around 2400 rpm it would back fire and >almost quit while running on the electronic ignition. The electronic timing >unit was leaking oil around the shaft. Not willing to have the electronic >timing unit reworked, I replaced it with a mag and a new harness. Test >flight was fine. > >Friday I flew it 2 hours straight without landing. Every thing was smooth >except for the no. 3 CHT was considerably higher then the others, but >within limits. > >Saturday is our local pilots breakfast. I took off about 6 am after a >fellow -6 builder flying his Cherokee. We had about 20 miles to fly. I >made 2 wide 360s around him, flew a little formation and then landed before >him. That was to give him some idea what he had to look forward to. Great >fun! It ran like it should. It was a short and sweet flight. > >After breakfast I flew back home and all went well. After landing I decided >to takeoff again and go to another airport. As I leveled off it started >its shuddering again. AS I headed back to the airport I did a mag check, >other then loss of rpm on each mag, I couldn't isolate it to a mag. The >boost pump was on all the time during this flight. On down wind as I >reduced power for flaps, it sounded like it was going to quit. I advanced >power and it picked up again. All the way down it studdered with me doing >the power on, power retard thing. > > Gasolator is mounted in the wing root, so ther should be no problem >there. >All lines are firesleeved. Harnesses are new. Carburetor was rebuilt with >the engine with the engine rebuild by Hatch Engines of Powersport fame. The >breathing was modified by Hatch. It was put on a dyno and run in. They >reported it produced 170 hp plus. As I said before it has a little over 10 >hrs on it. > >My boost pump does not seem to change the pressure reading normally. On the >ground, engine pump runs 3 - 4 psi, with the boost pump on or off. I was at >6000 ft. (good flying )Friday when I noticed the fuel pressure at zero. >Putting the boost pump on brought it went back to 2 psi. No engine >studdering problem during this period or this flight. > >This next week I will check all the things you suggested, Brian. I will >check anything others have to suggest also. All help is welcome. This has >taken most of the fun of flying it. I can just imagine dead sticking into >one of Oregon's soft fields or worse! > > I will install the blast tubes on the mags and on the engine fuel pump >this next week. > >Thanks for the help! > >Have Great Day! >Denny It would appear that the systems external to the core engine are doing OK, but that loss of fuel pressure you noted just ain't right. I get about 4psi from the engine pump, and it goes to 7psi with the boost pump on. You shouldn't have any major internal engine issues with a newly overhauled powerplant, but it certainly cannot be dismissed as a remote possibility. Pulling the oil filter or screen to check for any signs of premature component failure. A sticky valve or fouled valve stem and guide can do weird things which often occur only at certain engine temps and power settings. Toss in some Marvel Mystery oil with your next load of gas. Who knows? Maybe a cheap cure. How about the idle mixture setting on the carb? Do you get a slight rise in rpm just before idle cutoff? If it's set too lean, then this combined with a possible fuel pressure problem, could certainly make the engine stumble. A compression test while cold, then again immediately after flying might show something as well. A buddy of mine had two brand new Millenium cylinders go south on him in his Extra 300. Good thing it was under warranty! Man, these Lycosaurs are fickle beasts. Either they run great forever, or misbehave all the time. Press on, fly high and do some tests with varying power settings, pitch attitudes, boost pump on/off, G's, no G's, left tank, right tank, slow, fast, etc. Take a note pad and jot down CHT data, fuel pressure, EGT, etc. I'm certainly not an engine whiz, but John Schwaner's "Skyranch Engineering Manual" has a TON of great information which has taught me quite a lot. Hang in there. We'll get to the bottom of this. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Need Info on Airpark Homes
Date: Apr 02, 2000
go to www.airporthomes.com they have a real nice page. R. Burns RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rod Smith" <rsmith(at)ak.net> Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 1:02 PM Subject: RV-List: Need Info on Airpark Homes snip-snip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-9A flight. (long)
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Fellow Listers: We just wrapped up another very successful Twin Cities RV Forum. Although prior to this weekend, the weather seemed questionable, it turned out great (in Minnesota, in April, no less!!). 31 RVs on the field, at least that many "spam cans", great talks by Geo Orndorff, Larry Vetterman (great stand-up comedian!), and others. Best RV award went to Terry Jantzi from Ontario (Terry holds the RV altitude record, if you recall, of 26,000'). Dick Martin of Green Bay, WI won the RV Air Race with a speed of 188 knots in his souped up RV-8. I had the opportunity to fly the RV-9A with Bill Benedict. Personally I really like the way this airplane flies. During takeoff it tracks very straight, rotate around 65-70 mph (we used about 15 deg of flaps). Initial climb at 80, retract flaps and climbout at 100 mph with a rate of climb of 1100 fpm (15 gals of fuel on board, 350 pounds of pilots). It was a little bumpy down low and it does have somewhat of a tail waggle in turbulence like most RVs without a heavy engine. Smooth air at 2500 and it was rock solid. Nice roll rate, slower than other RVs but I found it just right. Same with pitch effectiveness... about like a C-150. Did some approach stalls, and it certainly doesn't stall like an RV... plenty of buffeting and bouncing around and in fact, Bill had me hold it in the stall with full rear stick and it just bobbed and shook, but the nose stayed straight ahead. At normal cruise, at 2500 MSL (40 degrees F OAT), it indicates 150 mph at 2500 rpm. Prop is pitched a little fine. Back to the pattern. It is a tremendous glider. Final approach at 70 mph and full flaps and I still came in a little high, but the new style flaps are more effective than other RVs. The flare I found very easy with none of my usually pitch oscillations that I tend to do in other people's RVs (I really don't have that many actual RV landings... probably a couple dozen). You can hold it off and float a long time. Personally I found it's flare-out and landing traits very similar to a C-150. Anyway.. I like it and with a 160 hp and CS it will be a nice X-C airplane. But the 118 hp is not bad. Bill reported a comfortable 155 mph TAS on 5.7 gph coming from N Plains. Doug MN Wing =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: New Builders
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Mark why was the "3/16 showing" a problem? As long as the rivet edge distance was ok you could have gotten by with just trimming the flange portion that sticking past the skin. Mike & Beth Nellis RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 09:46 AM Subject: RV-List: New Builders > > For you folks just getting started- > > One thing I learned the hard way (like so many other things!) is that if > your kit has pre-punched skins, you must consider them GOSPEL when > determining locations for skeleton parts. The first installment to my > "Wall of Shame" was the left HS-405 which after considerable plans > review, head scratchin' and much measuring, I drilled, clecoed, amd > rivetted. Of course when the skin went on I had 3/16" showing past the > edge of the skin. Make your measurements carefully, but verify ALL > locations with the skins before you drill them holes! > > FWIW- (I'm still trying to finish my first wing!) > > From the PossumWorks in TN > Mark -6A -almost done with right flap > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Camille Hawthorne" <camillehawthorne(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: women building RVs?
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Cathy, I can't wait to get started on this project. I've have gotten a trememdous response from my first post yesterday, and a lot of encouragement from other women who are building or helping their husbands build. I think i will take a slow pace to start (mainly to wait for additional funds for wing kit!) and just concentrate on getting the basics down. thanks for the support. camille ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Subject: Help with RV-6/6A F-6111 Stiffener Installation
Thanks to all who responded to my plea for guidance with those blankety blank stiffeners. This list (and RV builders) is (are) great! Harry Crosby ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tilted Panel
Date: Apr 02, 2000
> My question again is, why? The only reason I can see is perhaps for > better visibility of the panel. Bingo. Someone also responded: > The reason the panel is tilted is so the forward top skin will > lay flat. Also true. Either way the panel is at a better viewing angle with the 8 degrees than without. Seems to me people who are putting wedges under their gyros are defeating at least part of the advantage of the panel tilt. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2000
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Subject: RV-8A Crash
It is with great sadness that I must report to the list that my RV-8A, N565BW crashed during landing yesterday (Saturday) at Columbiana County Airport (02G) in Ohio. My wife and I, although taken to the hospital via ambulance sustained minor injuries. I'm not completely sure what happend but believe that when landing I either porpoised or I bubbled and then applied power too little or too late or both. I believe the nosewheel hit 1st causing it to buckle under. The plane veered to the right, full left rudder had no effect and the plane went off the runway into the grass where the nosegear dug into the soft earth and the airplane sumersaulted tail coming to rest on it's top. The canopy was broken and I was able to break out a hole large enough to crawl through and pull my wife out as well. It took about 30 - 45 seconds to get out and I was very fearful of fire as I could see a lot of fuel leaking out the fuel cap. The airplane is subtantially damaged, the nosegear, prop, cowling, right wing, vertical stabilizer, elevators, canopy & frame, and I'm sure more. I sustained a shoulder injury along with many cuts, scrapes and bruises. My wife sustained a hip injury, broken thumb and numerous scrapes and bruises. We feel incredibly lucky to have walked (ok limped) away. The roll bar and vertical stabilizer saved our lives. The seat belt and shoulder belt assemblies held up firmly in our seats until we realeased them. I have insurance through Skysmith (AIG) and I'll let everyone know how the claim goes. Although I would have prefered to not find out I can say that the airplane is a strong and safe structure. I am inclined to think that we would not have survived a weaker structure. Bill Pagan RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99 Last flight 4/1/00 and only had 31 hours on the tack http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bernard Banche" <bb8212(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Dayton Ohio Builders
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Are there any RVs under construction in the Dayton, Ohio Area? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Subject: Re: Engine Problem
In a message dated 04/02/2000 1:54:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, harje(at)proaxis.com writes: > I have had a series of ignition problems. I had a mag on the > left and a timing unit for the electronic ignition in the right mag > postion. The left mag was an older mag and it failed.....even though old it > may have failed due to heat as I think of it now. I replaced the mag and > installed a new harness. Run-up and a a short flight were fine. > > On the second flight it studdered again. With the help of a friend and the > cowl off we did a series of runs. Around 2400 rpm it would back fire and > almost quit while running on the electronic ignition. The electronic timing > unit was leaking oil around the shaft. Not willing to have the electronic > timing unit reworked, I replaced it with a mag and a new harness. Test > flight was fine. Boy, does this all sound familiar!!!!!!!! Long story short, I, too, got rid of my right-side electronic ignition chasing a similar problem (afterfiring on the electronic ignition only and a heart-stopping stumble in cruise) and things got better for awhile on two mags. Then it re-appeared. Ultimately I found a REM37BY with a loose (defective) center electrode which may have been the whole problem with the Electro-Aire, but the stumble never went away until I drilled out the carb main jet to # 37. The Marvel carb and O-320 were from a Cessna 172 installation. Much has been written about lean running from these carbs as jetted for the slower Cessnas. My thanks to Gary Corde, RV6Junkie@aol, for the suggestion that convinced my mechanic that I was crazy and made it possible to relax and enjoy my RV again. If I had it to do over, I'd drill #39 (factory jet bore is #43) and go richer from there by degrees, as I now need about 4 turns out on the mixture for takeoff to avoid over-rich loss of power and sometimes smoke; guess I overdid it a bit. This seemed to fix my problem, which sounds identical to yours, once and for all. Good luck. -Bill Boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111)
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Subject: Re: Tilted Panel
Randall Henderson wrote: > > > > My question again is, why? The only reason I can see is perhaps for > > better visibility of the panel. > > Bingo. > > Someone also responded: > > > The reason the panel is tilted is so the forward top skin will > > lay flat. > > Also true. Either way the panel is at a better viewing angle with the 8 > degrees than without. Seems to me people who are putting wedges under their > gyros are defeating at least part of the advantage of the panel tilt. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) > Portland, OR > http://www.edt.com/homewing > The gyro of the Attitude Indicator _needs_ to be level because of its orientation "in space". The DG gyro is set so that the longitudinal axis of the plane does not affect its function--the "axis" of the gyro is horizontal--so the DG is unaffected by a roll to the North or South --or a loop to the East or West. The Attitude gyro's axis is vertical(the plane of rotation is horizontal) and is affected by roll, pitch and yaw--which can jam it against its stops. The Turn Coordinator rotor's lateral axis is tilted 30 degrees to the long axis of the instrument so the pilot could get a "roll" indication but primarily measures the rate of turn of the nose of the airplane ("yaw") of the plane. Remember that 90 degree rule about gyros reacting to a force being applied. You'll probably have to draw it out on paper, like I did, to get the gist of it. So, that being as clear as mud--you really only have to set the Attitude gyro to be level in level flight to get accurate readings. The only other concern is that Attitude Gyros precess to give a NOSE HIGH indication during acceleration and NOSE LOW during deceleration. Boyd I think I read too much RV S6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Subject: Re: RV- WING REFLEX
CHRIS----------------------------THATS A GOOD QUESTION. MY LIMITED KNOWLEDGE IS THAT THE FLAPS AND AILERONS ARE RIGGED 3 TO 4 DEGREES UP FROM CENTER, AND THAT CAN INCREASE SPEED. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW MORE MIKE RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Engine Problem
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Buy a new jet or solder yours shut and re-drill. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 9:19 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Problem > > In a message dated 04/02/2000 1:54:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > harje(at)proaxis.com writes: > > > I have had a series of ignition problems. I had a mag on the > > left and a timing unit for the electronic ignition in the right mag > > postion. The left mag was an older mag and it failed.....even though old it > > may have failed due to heat as I think of it now. I replaced the mag and > > installed a new harness. Run-up and a a short flight were fine. > > > > On the second flight it studdered again. With the help of a friend and the > > cowl off we did a series of runs. Around 2400 rpm it would back fire and > > almost quit while running on the electronic ignition. The electronic timing > > unit was leaking oil around the shaft. Not willing to have the electronic > > timing unit reworked, I replaced it with a mag and a new harness. Test > > flight was fine. > > Boy, does this all sound familiar!!!!!!!! > > Long story short, I, too, got rid of my right-side electronic ignition > chasing a similar problem (afterfiring on the electronic ignition only and a > heart-stopping stumble in cruise) and things got better for awhile on two > mags. Then it re-appeared. Ultimately I found a REM37BY with a loose > (defective) center electrode which may have been the whole problem with the > Electro-Aire, but the stumble never went away until I drilled out the carb > main jet to # 37. The Marvel carb and O-320 were from a Cessna 172 > installation. Much has been written about lean running from these carbs as > jetted for the slower Cessnas. My thanks to Gary Corde, RV6Junkie@aol, for > the suggestion that convinced my mechanic that I was crazy and made it > possible to relax and enjoy my RV again. If I had it to do over, I'd drill > #39 (factory jet bore is #43) and go richer from there by degrees, as I now > need about 4 turns out on the mixture for takeoff to avoid over-rich loss of > power and sometimes smoke; guess I overdid it a bit. This seemed to fix my > problem, which sounds identical to yours, once and for all. > > Good luck. > > -Bill Boyd > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "STEVE WHITE" <SGWHITE(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: N823SW First Flight
Date: Apr 02, 2000
Just to let the list know another RV6A had a successful first flight. S/N 24000 the 4000th RV6/6a kit sold now known as N823SW had its maiden flight out of Independence State (7S5) Oregon. No major problems, the plane flew great, no heavy wing but it did require a little right rudder when in level flight at cruise (4000 ft). RMI Engine monitor RPM is still fluctuating at lower throttle inputs. It seems to be holding better above 2000 RPM. Ron at RMI thought that the Mags on the H2AD engine driven off a single shaft was picking up false signals, creating the problem. I installed a 2.2K ohm resistor as he directed, but it has not cured the problem. Any ideas of a cause and a cure would be appreciated. The H2AD engine came from Eustice Boway via Bart in Kamloops BC. it is being pulled by a Sencenich Metal prop. RMI encoder and engine monitor with a Garmin 250 GPS/Com radio. Started tail kit in May 1995. - Thanks to the list for all the help over the years Steve White ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tilted Panel
Date: Apr 02, 2000
I said: > > Either way the panel is at a better viewing angle with the 8 > > degrees than without. Seems to me people who are putting wedges under their > > gyros are defeating at least part of the advantage of the panel tilt. > The gyro of the Attitude Indicator _needs_ to be level because of its > orientation "in space". [snip] Perhaps I wasn't clear -- I was trying to say that people who are wedging or shimming their AH instead of getting the internal compensation are defeating the purpose, etc, etc. Not trying to say NOT to compensate for the tilt. Randall Henderson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gusndale(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-8A Crash
In a message dated 4/2/00 6:47:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, pagan(at)cboss.com writes: << It is with great sadness that I must report to the list that my RV-8A, N565BW crashed during landing yesterday (Saturday) at Columbiana County Airport (02G) in Ohio. My wife and I, although taken to the hospital via ambulance sustained minor injuries. >> Bill, I am so sorry to hear of your accident yesterday. I'm glad to hear that you and your wife have only minor injuries (though I'm sure 'minor' injuries hurt plenty enough). Although we have never met, I have valued your contributions to this list. I hope you both heal quickly and fully and that you will be able to restore your plane and fly again soon. As a pilot with less than 200 hours over about 20 years, I am beginning to think a lot about my (un)readiness to fly my RV6A which will probably be completed near the end of this year. I am planning to start flying a lot more this year to improve my skills and also I will be getting some time with Mike Seager before I am ready to fly my own plane. I don't know if you have a lot of PIC time or not but either way, those of us on the list who haven't flown an RV yet, and probably those that have as well, would sure appreciate your letting us know anything you can that may help us become safer pilots with our RVs. All of us hurt when one of us goes down. Sorry for your misfortune. Hoping for your speedy recovery, Dale Wotring RV6A Vancouver, WA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Engine Problem
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Cy and others, Is it possible to buy a #39 jet instead of drilling out the old one? I am not flying yet, but I am looking forward to the excitement of a rough engine with great enthusiasm ;-) If those Marvel jets are for sale, where does one get them? It could be nice to have a selection on hand to tweak the carburetor. Also, how about a source for the carburetor gaskets that will likely be ruined in the jet transplant ... Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A FWF and panel wiring details, details and still more details ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Date: Apr 03, 2000
____ Mike, The pin hole goes thu the lower angle brace, the aileron bellcrank, and the upper angle brace. It is accessible from the lower inspection cover opening..... Fred Stucklen N925RV RV-6A E. Windsor, Ct From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: Re: --- "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote: > > For aileron jigging purposes, I clamped my aileron bellcranks in > the > proper position defined in the plans, then drilled a #40 hole thru > the upper > & lower braces, including thru the belcrank, Seems like the neutral position favors using the bottom part of the bellcrank for this. You can, of course, still reach to place the pin through the access hatch (after the wings are closed?) Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Closing Wings! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net>
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Fly
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Hi Dale, Your remarks about your (un)readiness to fly prompted me to add this: Take advantage of EAA's Flight Advisor/Technical Counselor program. Check the archives for other info about Flight Advisors or go to EAA's web site. The primary goal of the FA program is to make sure that you, the pilot, are ready to fly to your airplane. The Tech Counselor program is to make sure the airplane is ready for you. Hope this info helps. Let me know if you need anything more. My condolences to Bill Pagan. (I already sent him a personal note.) Gary Baker Flight Advisor/ATP/CFI RV-6 (Working on wings) N4GB (Reserved) Medina, OH > > As a pilot with less than 200 hours over about 20 years, I am beginning > to think a lot about my (un)readiness to fly my RV6A which will probably be > completed near the end of this year. I am planning to start flying a lot > more this year to improve my skills and also I will be getting some time with > Mike Seager before I am ready to fly my own plane. I don't know if you have > a lot of PIC time or not but either way, those of us on the list who haven't > flown an RV yet, and probably those that have as well, would sure appreciate > your letting us know anything you can that may help us become safer pilots > with our RVs. > > All of us hurt when one of us goes down. Sorry for your misfortune. > > Hoping for your speedy recovery, > Dale Wotring > RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: N823SW First Flight
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Steve, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Finished Baffle fitup) Niantic, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: center seat belt attachment, was: Pacific Aero Harne ss
Steve, Yes, I can accomodate the seats for whatever location you decide for your fifth point. The majority put it at the rear of the hole in the floor for the stick. I have had others put it further back. We have a drawing that shows how to install it at the rear of the stick hole. Let me know if I can help you. Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: RV- WING REFLEX
Grumman Tigers & Cheetahs also has the flap rigged a few degrees up at retract position. All the Grumman speed gurus beleived this and I think the STAR (Grumman owners club) printed articles on this. My tiger had the setting and it was a 1979 model that apparently Roy Lopressi blessed this "mod". This is certaintaly not scientific but some data nonetheless... MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com on 04/02/2000 12:42:59 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RV- WING REFLEX ANYONE KNOW IF REFLEX HAS BEEN TRIED ON RV-WINGS AND IF IT GAVE MORE SPEED OR WHAT? THE KITFOX THAT I USED TO OWN WAS A LITTLE FASTER USING REFLEX OF A COUPLE OF DEGREES. THANKS MIKE [RV-4] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Engine baffling
I had success with safety wire & springs & baffle material. I installed baffle material in little strips on the baffle to keep the baffle from chaffing on the cylinders. I then used S/S screws with the heads drilled for safety wire installed on the cuff ends. I Used thick safety wire to make loops thru the screws (#10) & then used springs to couple the baffle cuffs together-hooking the spring onto the wire loops. I wanted to use the threaded rods but this stuff was in the junk box & threaded rod wasn't. It works fine & installed very easily. I like easy . zilik(at)bewellnet.com on 04/02/2000 12:39:33 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine baffling Glenn & Judi wrote: > > Hi, > RE: Tieing together the engine baffle cylinder wraps with safety wire. > > If I don't have a straight run between the two fastening points on the > wraps, How should I fasten the two pieces together using safety wire and > 1/4" tubing? Is a bend in the middle of the tubing acceptable? > > -Glenn > > _ Glenn, I used the plastic tubing and safety wire. Was never real happy with the fit and was worried that the tube would rub against the oil return tubes. A local builder/flyer told me to loose the wires and install threaded rod instead. This is what I did. The rod can be bent to miss the inter cylinder baffles and the rocker box drain tubes. IMHO a far superior way to go. Gary Zilik N99PZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Subject: Engine problem
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Oddly enough, I flew with Mike Seager this weekend and noticed the red factory RV-6 does the same thing. On short final when adjusting power from idle there was a noticeable stumble. My guess is the idle mixture or the carb jet. Denny, I would try calling the people at Precision Airmotive (the carb people) and see what they think. By the way, if you're contemplating flying your airplane without some time with Mike, DON'T DO IT. The time I spent with Mike is the best money you'll ever spend on your airplane. It was a blast, and I no longer feel like a stranger to RV's. First time ever an instructor said, "let's level out here and I'll show you how to do some aileron rolls." Waaay cool. Thanks! Bob Japundza ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Another RV is born!!
On April 2, 2000, at approximately 0930, RV-4 N184DA took to the skies for the first time at Byron California. Experienced RV owner/builder Greg Triplett was pilot in command for the 45 minute flight and for the most part, reported no squawks. After a thorough post-flight inspection, it was my turn and I added another 1.0 to the tach. It was fantastic!!!! The airplane handled wonderfully. I have been waiting nine long years since I first began this project for that"RV Grin" and it's not going away anytime soon. It's definitely worth it!! Now, back out to the airport to clean off those bugs,, and then add a few more :) Derrick L. Aubuchon n184da(at)pacbell.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Re: tank skins
Hello Glenn, Most of us have had some problems with tank skin alignment (ref. archives) but it is usually overlap. From your brief description, and assuming your leading edge was mounted correctly, I would speculate you have not tightened down the skins with the straps enough. I tightened down the skins slowly and then using a rubber mallet and a piece of wood, very gently, tapped the bottom inboard edge of the skin to get it to align properly with the leading edge. When I was done, I still had to trim some overlap at the leading edge interface and along the bottom skin interface. Hope this helps, Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 Sealing up bottom of wings Moscow, ID USA At 4/1/00 09:29 AM, you wrote: > >Listers: have any of you building an rv-8 had any >alignment problems when mounting the tank skins? Both >of my skins overlap the outboard stiffener by at least >1/4 of an inch and have a gap on the lower side that >is just UGLY can you help? > >Glenn > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il>
Subject: Fw: News
|Well, folks, |Seems there is something called "Open Directory", which is a |communal effort to make the biggest, most elaborate, people |supported and oriented info index on the net. | |Anyway, I've become an editor of the aircraft homebuilt section. | |So, if you could send me any and all kinds of links and sites to |be added to the directory, I would most welcome it. If you |could classify those links, all the better! | |Especially needed are aircraft engine sites, but all sites, |especially builder's sites, and women's sites, |will be most welcome! | |The main Open Directory page is: http://dmoz.org . | |Of course, if you would like to become editors too, do apply |there! | |Ronen. | ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Filling "Blemishes"
Hello all, Just finishing up the fiberglass on the HS and Elev's, filled in with microballoons in most areas. Just wondering if you have any recommendations on using microballoons to fill in pop rivet tops or using microballoons directly on the alumn. for a small recess (dent) (of course caused by builder error during riveting !! Thanks. Archives didn't help out much. Kurt, OKC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Another RV is born!!
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Derrick, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Baffles fitted) Niantic, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Filling "Blemishes"
Rough it up so adhesion won't be a problem. I and many others like the Poly-Fiber Filling agent. 2 part Epoxy- very ,very, very light weight & will tend to not run like a slurry of micro & Epoxy, VERY easy to sand and is the most stable (won't shrink or split) of the filling agents.....Great stuff. KAKlewin(at)aol.com on 04/03/2000 12:16:21 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Filling "Blemishes" Hello all, Just finishing up the fiberglass on the HS and Elev's, filled in with microballoons in most areas. Just wondering if you have any recommendations on using microballoons to fill in pop rivet tops or using microballoons directly on the alumn. for a small recess (dent) (of course caused by builder error during riveting !! Thanks. Archives didn't help out much. Kurt, OKC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Oil Door Hinge
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Does anyone have a method or source to hide the hinge on the oil access door? I've got options with the latches (camloc, hartwell & others) but I really don't want the hinge visible. I envision something like the luggage smasher hinges on some car trunks but about 1 inch radius. My efforts to create similar functionality have been somewhat less than elegant. Suggestions are welcome. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go "Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain (1835-1910) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id for" ; Mon, 03 Apr 2000 14:34:29.-0400(at)matronics.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Oil Door Hinge
I'm seriously considering stealing Rich Jankowskis trick. Glass the door onto the flange and fair. Then cut a smaller door that will open INTO the compartment. The door has a small magnet that will hold it closed on the ground. When flying, the air pressure holds it shut. No visible hinges, no fasteners. Pretty slick, huh. Eric Henson Fuselage out of the Jig, YeeeeeeeHawwwwwww. No more dain bramage from hitting that thing with my noggin "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com> on 04/03/2000 01:59:40 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Oil Door Hinge Does anyone have a method or source to hide the hinge on the oil access door? I've got options with the latches (camloc, hartwell & others) but I really don't want the hinge visible. "Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain (1835-1910) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Engine Problem
In a message dated 04/03/2000 8:59:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: << Is it possible to buy a #39 jet instead of drilling out the old one? I am not flying yet, but I am looking forward to the excitement of a rough engine with great enthusiasm ;-) If those Marvel jets are for sale, where does one get them? It could be nice to have a selection on hand to tweak the carburetor. Also, how about a source for the carburetor gaskets that will likely be ruined in the jet transplant ... >> Don't forget how much fun you will have removing cowl, airbox, controls, carb, splitting the carb, altering the jet, replacing with new ga$kets, reinstalling everything... possibly five times or so...that's why I left my jet just where it is. The twentieth time you remove the cowl you will notice your beautiful paint job is not so pristine anymore :-( Bill B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Oil Door Hinge
I mounted the hinge with stiffeners or spacers to lower the hinge down almost parallel to the door area. When I run my hand over the hinge area you bairly feel it because I recessed it. You can see it but when painted its almost invisable. gyoung@cs-sol.com on 04/03/2000 01:59:40 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Oil Door Hinge Does anyone have a method or source to hide the hinge on the oil access door? I've got options with the latches (camloc, hartwell & others) but I really don't want the hinge visible. I envision something like the luggage smasher hinges on some car trunks but about 1 inch radius. My efforts to create similar functionality have been somewhat less than elegant. Suggestions are welcome. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go "Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain (1835-1910) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Eastburn <jime(at)ci.hillsboro.or.us>
Subject: RE: news report of crash
Date: Apr 03, 2000
I only heard a news flash of an aircraft crash in the southern part of the U.S. but not enough to start a rumor or speculation as to what happened. What I did hear is not good. Please, anyone with information please post. Jim Eastburn RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Oil Door Hinge
Date: Apr 03, 2000
McMaster-Carr has one that will work.Page 2645 of catalog #106, lower left corner. I used 2 of them for my glove box door.They are made to be welded but I drilled and tapped them for 6/32 screws, could be riveted also. This is the same type of hinge that is used on the oil door of the 6 on last months EAA Sport Avaiation cover. Karl -----Original Message----- From: Gregory Young [SMTP:gyoung@cs-sol.com] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 01:00 Subject: RV-List: Oil Door Hinge Does anyone have a method or source to hide the hinge on the oil access door? I've got options with the latches (camloc, hartwell & others) but I really don't want the hinge visible. I envision something like the luggage smasher hinges on some car trunks but about 1 inch radius. My efforts to create similar functionality have been somewhat less than elegant. Suggestions are welcome. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Throttle Body Injector
Date: Apr 03, 2000
I am still in the process of scrambling ..uh.. shopping for an engine. Can somebody educate me on TBI's? Why would I want or not want one? Thanks for any advice, opinions, war stories, or fairy tales you may provide. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com>
Subject: Tip Tanks
Anybody have any comments on Tip Tanks for the -6. A friend of mine who owns an Piper Aero and is looking at the -6 asked if tip tanks significantly change the performance and are within Van's "approval quidelines". JB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: RV- WING REFLEX
Some of the sailplanes also have negative flap settings. On a sailplane it is meant to lower the angle of attack, thus help mantain a higher airspeed, hence more lift. Is it there for the same purpose on a power airplane? Not an aerodynamicist, - Glenn Gordon > > Grumman Tigers & Cheetahs also has the flap rigged a few degrees up at retract > position. All the Grumman speed gurus beleived this and I think the STAR > (Grumman owners club) printed articles on this. My tiger had the setting and it > was a 1979 model that apparently Roy Lopressi blessed this "mod". This is > certaintaly not scientific but some data nonetheless... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: RV8 Inboard Ribs installation
Hello, The plans talk about two ways of installing the three inboard ribs. This email is to provide feed back to the list my opinion of one of those methods. The first method is to install all the ribs at once. Then when you install the bottom skins, use pop rivets where access is restricted. The second method is to leave out the three inboard ribs until final rivet/install of the bottom skin and then add them one at a time as you rivet inward. I did the second method and not only is there no pop rivets, (which really is no big deal to me), but I feel the installation went quicker and easier. The key is to practice inserting and removing the ribs with the bottom skin clecoed on before you begin final riveting. What worked best for me was to slightly bow the rib in the middle as you shoved it into place. Also, I had to file some on the flap brace to get at a couple of the 470AD4-x rivets. I also had to insert the offset rivet head between the skin and flap brace to get at two of the rivets. Finally I had to insert a couple of rivets with the manufactured head reversed as the flap brace blocked rivet gun/head access from the flap brace side. In short, any problems were from the flap brace and not from the actual insertion of the ribs into the partially completed wing. Still I imagine a lot easier than trying to squeeze between them with a bucking bar. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 wing bottom skins Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BrianZ7663(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: RE: news report of crash
This link has info on a recent crash in southern Cal. 2 die in plane crash near Taft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV Crash
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Numb....yeah, that describes it perfectly. numb.... > > > This is about too much sadness in one day for me to comprehend. Two deaths, > and one wrecked RV8A with injured occupants in as many days. Dammit people > be CAREFUL OUT THERE! > > I'm positively numb. > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: RV Crash
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Did that plane have gyros in it? Originally(RV6(?) era it didn't. Man, that is a bummer. -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- >From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Crash >Date: Mon, Apr 3, 2000, 5:21 PM > >>They were headed to Sun-N-Fun, and were going to let some of us in SHV see >>the >>RV-9A. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net
Subject: Re: RV Crash
Date: Apr 03, 2000
I am lost for words, 2 more of our brothers gone too soon. Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB N602RV ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 7:18 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Crash > > Numb....yeah, that describes it perfectly. > > numb.... > > > > > > > This is about too much sadness in one day for me to comprehend. Two > deaths, > > and one wrecked RV8A with injured occupants in as many days. Dammit people > > be CAREFUL OUT THERE! > > > > I'm positively numb. > > > > Brian Denk > > RV8 N94BD > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: RV Crash
> >>They were headed to Sun-N-Fun, and were going to let some of us in SHV see > the RV-9A. It is one thing to read of accidents involving unknown strangers. It is quite something else when they turn out to be folks whom you have visited with, worked with, and whom you admire both as aviators and as people. Numb is how I feel too. I want to devise a way to install some type of quick fuel dump system into our planes, and I'd like your help (the help of this list) to do so. We'll talk about this more after a few days have past. Until then, everyone fly safe. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Tip Tanks
> >Anybody have any comments on Tip Tanks for the -6. A friend of mine who >owns an Piper Aero and is looking at the -6 asked if tip tanks >significantly change the performance and are within Van's "approval >quidelines". > >JB Van sells tip tanks manufactured by Jon Johanson, so he must "approve" the mod. They are the same size and shape as the standard wing tips, so the performance would not be changed, except due to the extra weight. The extra weight at the wing tips will increase the roll inertia a bit, which would slow down the roll acceleration, and possibly affect the spin characteristics and the dutch roll. Kevin Horton RV-8 (riveting fuselage skins) Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gusndale(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Fly
In a message dated 4/3/00 6:18:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gtbaker(at)bright.net writes: << Your remarks about your (un)readiness to fly prompted me to add this: Take advantage of EAA's Flight Advisor/Technical Counselor program. >> Gary, Thanks for your e-mail. Yes, I do plan to take advantage of the EAA Flight Advisor program and I'm already involved with the Technical Counselor program. Reading of Bill's crash left me feeling quite uneasy about my own skills as a pilot. I'm inexperienced and what I do know hasn't been exercised much. I guess it is time for me to find a flight advisor and make a plan to get my skills up to snuff. Fortunately, I live close enought to Van's that I should be able to get plenty of RV transition time. First, I'm going to rack up some C-150 hours so I'm not wasting my time with Mike Seagar in an RV. Also, someone suggested that some tailwheel experience would be good even for me with a 6A and I plan to follow through with that. I think there is a Cub that I can get some dual instruction in. Thanks for taking the time to touch base with your suggestions. Regards, Dale Wotring RV6A finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Brake lines
Regarding RV-6 brake lines: Are the brake lines meant to be secured to the tubular gear leg? Or are they meant to float within the gear leg fairing area? Thanks. - Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com>
Subject: RV Accidents
My wife and I would like to thank everyone for the many, many e-mails we received. We've been overwhelmed by the kindness and concern of the people on this list. It would take me the better part of a day to respond to everyone personally. We've been offered help and support from dozens of other builders, lurkers and flyers. We've been offered free counseling and told to even call collect. We are truly humbled by the outpouring and yet, even as we lick our own wounds we are informed of another loss to our group. When considering the most recent loss, the accident of 565BW seems insignificant. We are the lucky ones!! We walked away to be able to tell the story and to choose to fly again or not. Our condolences go out to not only the family and Vans employees but to all of you on the list. As one of the listers who emailed me so eloquently stated, when one of us goes down all of us hurt. It's no accident that when I destroyed my airplane I turned to the people that would understand my grief. There has been a lot of threads on this list recently of people leaving and flaming one another but like any good family, when the times are tough we all pull together. Thank you all. We had many requests to post pictures of the plane on our website and I have done so although somewhat reluctantly. We've also had some inquiries about breaking canopy to get out. The canopy was pretty well busted up and I used my fist and arm to break out a large enough hole to crawl out and pull my wife out. I have a number of cuts on my hand and arm but they are mostly superficial. I doubt I could have gotten out if the canopy had not already been broken. Bill Pagan RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99 http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Another RV is born!!
In a message dated 4/3/00 9:05:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time, n184da(at)pacbell.net writes: << On April 2, 2000, at approximately 0930, RV-4 N184DA took to the skies for the first time at Byron California. Experienced RV owner/builder Greg Triplett was pilot in command for the 45 minute flight and for the most part, reported no squawks. After a thorough post-flight inspection, it was my turn and I added another 1.0 to the tach. It was fantastic!!!! The airplane handled wonderfully. I have been waiting nine long years since I first began this project for that"RV Grin" and it's not going away anytime soon. It's definitely worth it!! Now, back out to the airport to clean off those bugs,, and then add a few more :) >> Derrick doesn't really do justice above to his first flight in his new toy. Derrick works for Oakland ATC, his plane is very nicely built and outfitted. He was climbing like nobody's business (he has a pumped up Ly-Con O-320) and flew a rigorous flight profile defined by Chapter Flight Coordinator Barry Weber. Greg Triplett flew chase in his own RV-4 with Derrick's significant other in the back taking video. The weather in the Central Valley was gorgeous (30 mi vis 80 deg and light winds from the North. The flight of two were coordinating to avoid the skydivers' King Air coming down (and I do mean fast) east of the field every fifteen minutes. After this grueling activity he returned and made a beautiful wheel landing. All in all it was a wonderful thing to see and the RV grin was from ear to ear. The ground crew were Rich Hansen, Roger Hansen and Gordon Jones. By my count it's the 15th RV in the air for Livermore, CA based Chapter 663. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 03, 2000
Subject: Re: RV- WING REFLEX
sounds like were starting to get some response to this question, but will it help increase speed on an RV. any aeronautical engineer types out there have any input on the reflexed flap---speed increase topic? mike {rv-4] ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Another RV is born!!
I was on my way to Shelter Cove with a friend of mine, passing over Byron when we heard the commotion on the air. Both the pilot and I wanted a close-up, but were at 4500'. Please Post pictures... and Congratulations!!!. J Baker Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 4/3/00 9:05:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > n184da(at)pacbell.net writes: > > << On April 2, 2000, at approximately 0930, RV-4 N184DA took to the > skies for the first time at Byron California. > Experienced RV owner/builder Greg Triplett was pilot in command for > the 45 minute flight and for the most part, reported no squawks. > After a thorough post-flight inspection, it was my turn and I added > another 1.0 to the tach. > > It was fantastic!!!! The airplane handled wonderfully. > > I have been waiting nine long years since I first began this project > for that"RV Grin" and it's not going away anytime soon. > > It's definitely worth it!! > > Now, back out to the airport to clean off those bugs,, and then add a > few more :) >> > > Derrick doesn't really do justice above to his first flight in his new toy. > Derrick works for Oakland ATC, his plane is very nicely built and outfitted. > He was climbing like nobody's business (he has a pumped up Ly-Con O-320) and > flew a rigorous flight profile defined by Chapter Flight Coordinator Barry > Weber. Greg Triplett flew chase in his own RV-4 with Derrick's significant > other in the back taking video. The weather in the Central Valley was > gorgeous (30 mi vis 80 deg and light winds from the North. The flight of two > were coordinating to avoid the skydivers' King Air coming down (and I do mean > fast) east of the field every fifteen minutes. After this grueling activity > he returned and made a beautiful wheel landing. All in all it was a > wonderful thing to see and the RV grin was from ear to ear. > > The ground crew were Rich Hansen, Roger Hansen and Gordon Jones. By my count > it's the 15th RV in the air for Livermore, CA based Chapter 663. > > -GV (RV-6A N1GV) > vanremog(at)aol.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV Crash
Date: Apr 03, 2000
**** 04/03/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record RECORD 9 **** A. Type: Accident Mid Air:N Missing:N Entry date: 04/03/2000 From: SOUTHWEST REGION OPERATIONS CENTER B. Reg.No.: 96VA M/M: EXP Desc: EXP/HOMEBUILT: 1994 RV-6T Activity: Pleasure Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: General Aviation Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, PETTIGREW, AR. WX: FYV 022053Z 00000KT 4SM HZ OVC018 14/10 A2987 Damage: Destroyed C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: # Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 UNK: D. Location City: PETTIGREW State: AR E. Occ Date: 04/02/2000 Time: 21:15 F. Invest Coverage. IIC: STANFILL Reg/DO: SW11 DO CTY: LITTLE ROCK DO State: AR Others: NTSB (WIGINGTON) G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: UNKN Dep Date: / / Time: Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N Other: AAI IIC: ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 03, 2000
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: scratches in lexan
I got my airtech light to fit the wingtip pretty well (thanks to Kyle Boatright's advice) and then went to work trimming the lexan lense. That fits pretty well now too, but it picked up some scratches. It took me a while to realize that when I grind it on the belt sander that a few tiny particles of abrasive fly off and land on the lexan. When I fit it onto the fiberglas light bracket some of them get caught between the lexan and the lip of the fiberglass bracket. The scratches are confined to the area where the two overlap. They are surprisingly visible there. Is there any good method for removing small scratches from lexan? I searched the archives with no success. (A search for "lexan" turns up every email from Gil aLEXANder!). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: scratches in lexan
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Try a Micromesh kit. It is for plexi and acrylic, but I bet it would work for Lexan...You can get it from Spruce and other vendors. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 11:44 PM Subject: RV-List: scratches in lexan > > I got my airtech light to fit the wingtip pretty well (thanks to Kyle Boatright's advice) and then > went to work trimming the lexan lense. That fits pretty well now too, but it picked up some scratches. > It took me a while to realize that when I grind it on the belt sander that a few tiny particles of > abrasive fly off and land on the lexan. When I fit it onto the fiberglas light bracket some of them > get caught between the lexan and the lip of the fiberglass bracket. The scratches are confined to the > area where the two overlap. They are surprisingly visible there. > > Is there any good method for removing small scratches from lexan? I searched the archives with no > success. (A search for "lexan" turns up every email from Gil aLEXANder!). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 1980
From: "JOHN CRATE" <JOHN.CRATE(at)encode.com>
Subject: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A)
I am in the process of mating the wings to the fuselage to drill the rear spar mount. My problem is that the F-605 clevis is contacting the inboard wing rib preventing further insertion of the rear wing spar. The result is forward sweep of the wings. Both wings have the same problem. I believe if 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch was removed from the end of the fuselage clevis, it would enable the rear wing spar to slide in far enough to eliminate any forward sweep. I feel that by moving the hole for the rear spar bolt inboard slightly, edge margin would remain uncompromised. The fuselage is level and there is sufficient room to bring the rear spar in before contact is made with the little spacer in the clevis. I solicit any advice from those before me on how to proceed. Thanks John Crate RV6A (Hopefully) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Brake lines
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Glenn, As I read the plans for my RV-6A, the aluminum tubes are taped to the gear leg in three places using electrical tape. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A -----Original Message----- Regarding RV-6 brake lines: Are the brake lines meant to be secured to the tubular gear leg? Or are they meant to float within the gear leg fairing area? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2000
From: ddebt <ddebt(at)pathcom.com>
Subject: Re: RV- WING REFLEX
I posted this a few years ago: The wing on the RV-3/4/6 has a NACA 5 digit series airfoil (max camber 25% chord). There is a very small pitching moment coefficient generated on these airfoils resulting in a small download on the tail for balance. The aircraft that use NACA 6 digit series or those airfoils developed from the GAW airfoils (NLF on Lancair) have significantly higher pitching moment coefficients (max camber 40 to 60% chord). The resulting increase in balance load increases drag on the wing and tail. The intent of reflexing the flaps is to reduce the trim drag. I don't think it would make a difference on an RV. On the other hand, while the flap is reflexed, the maximum lift of the wing is reduced and the stall speed increases. The benefit here is a potential increase in Va (how to loosen your fillings in turbulence faster). David Fried > any aeronautical engineer types out there have any input on the reflexed > flap---speed increase topic? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Subject: Re: Brake lines
What I did was: To use clear tubing arround the brake line and use zip ties to secure it to the gear leg. worked for me. Terry E. Cole N468TC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A)
Date: Apr 04, 2000
John, This is a fairly common 'problem' with mounting the wings. There are two ways to correct it. IF you can remove material from the bulkhead spar ends AND still maintain the hole edge distances shown on page 46 of the plans in Section A-A, you will find it to be the easiest cure for your alignment. However, if you cannot keep the edge distances specified ( 5/8" min), then one way to 'gain' extra room is to remove the spacer (shown on page 33 in Section C-C and D-D. Also shown on page 26 at the bottom of the page) between the double spar ends and shorten the length of the spacer so that the end of the wing spar can enter the fuselage the distance you require. Under no circumstances should you remove material from the spar ends so that the edge distance of the bolt hole is less than specified. This is a critical measurement and has been spoken of many times by Van himself. Have fun building, it gets better from this point on :-) ----------------------------------------------------- Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Southern Alberta ----- Original Message ----- From: "JOHN CRATE" <JOHN.CRATE(at)encode.com> Sent: Friday, April 04, 1980 5:42 AM Subject: RV-List: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A) > > I am in the process of mating the wings to the fuselage to drill the rear > spar mount. My problem is that the F-605 clevis is contacting the inboard > wing rib preventing further insertion of the rear wing spar. The result is > forward sweep of the wings. Both wings have the same problem. I believe if > 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch was removed from the end of the fuselage clevis, it > would enable the rear wing spar to slide in far enough to eliminate any > forward sweep. I feel that by moving the hole for the rear spar bolt > inboard slightly, edge margin would remain uncompromised. The fuselage is > level and there is sufficient room to bring the rear spar in before contact > is made with the little spacer in the clevis. > > I solicit any advice from those before me on how to proceed. > > > Thanks > > John Crate > RV6A (Hopefully) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Glen, I temporarily glued three short pieces of 3/8" aluminum tubing, flared on both ends, to the front of the gear leg. When I glassed on the leg stiffeners, I also glassed over these short pieces of tubing. I then fed the 1/4" aluminum tubing down the front of the gear leg through the 3/8" tubing. That way, the brake lines can float as the gear leg flexes. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 "At the airport - final details" ----- Original Message ----- From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 9:58 PM Subject: RV-List: Brake lines > > Regarding RV-6 brake lines: Are the brake lines meant to be secured to > the tubular gear leg? Or are they meant to float within the gear leg > fairing area? > > Thanks. > > - Glenn Gordon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2000
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A)
I just finished this process a week ago. Spent a weekend trying to make it perfect and still had a little forward sweep. After hanging the four plumb lines across the leading edges and stretching another line from wing tip to wing tip, I found that both the fuel tank plumb lines were 1/2" from this line. My wings were level all the way across on both wings, which made me happy. The measurement from spar tip to a center mark on the fuselage was within a 1/4" difference. Frustrated that I couldn't make it perfect, I called Vans and talked to Tom. He reassured me that the whole process was a give and take and to average the measurement. He told me to go ahead and drill since both wings had the same forward sweep and was less than 1" on all measurements. Dan DeNeal rv6a (working on fuel tank attachment) Hoopeston, Illinois --- JOHN CRATE wrote: > > > I am in the process of mating the wings to the > fuselage to drill the rear > spar mount. My problem is that the F-605 clevis is > contacting the inboard > wing rib preventing further insertion of the rear > wing spar. The result is > forward sweep of the wings. Both wings have the same > problem. I believe if > 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch was removed from the end of > the fuselage clevis, it > would enable the rear wing spar to slide in far > enough to eliminate any > forward sweep. I feel that by moving the hole for > the rear spar bolt > inboard slightly, edge margin would remain > uncompromised. The fuselage is > level and there is sufficient room to bring the rear > spar in before contact > is made with the little spacer in the clevis. > > I solicit any advice from those before me on how to > proceed. > > > Thanks > > John Crate > RV6A (Hopefully) > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Subject: Re: RV- WING REFLEX
AS I posted before the Grumman Tiger/Cheetah do this with much claim of success. I imagine one could research the wing design of the Tiger and compair it to that of the RV. From 10 feet away they look alike but the pressure locations, drag coef., MAC & other variables need to be compaired. Thurston published a very good book on this. Maybe our Book person on the group can help with Thurstons book...... Also, look into the American Star owners club for Grummans. They may have a web site. They have many articles and engineering data on your topic......keep us posted.. ddebt(at)pathcom.com on 04/04/2000 08:57:18 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: RV- WING REFLEX I posted this a few years ago: The wing on the RV-3/4/6 has a NACA 5 digit series airfoil (max camber 25% chord). There is a very small pitching moment coefficient generated on these airfoils resulting in a small download on the tail for balance. The aircraft that use NACA 6 digit series or those airfoils developed from the GAW airfoils (NLF on Lancair) have significantly higher pitching moment coefficients (max camber 40 to 60% chord). The resulting increase in balance load increases drag on the wing and tail. The intent of reflexing the flaps is to reduce the trim drag. I don't think it would make a difference on an RV. On the other hand, while the flap is reflexed, the maximum lift of the wing is reduced and the stall speed increases. The benefit here is a potential increase in Va (how to loosen your fillings in turbulence faster). David Fried > any aeronautical engineer types out there have any input on the reflexed > flap---speed increase topic? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A)
Date: Apr 04, 2000
That's a normal problem/condition. Trim it so there's no forward sweep. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go > > I am in the process of mating the wings to the fuselage to drill the rear > spar mount. My problem is that the F-605 clevis is contacting the inboard > wing rib preventing further insertion of the rear wing spar. The result is > forward sweep of the wings. Both wings have the same problem. I believe if > 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch was removed from the end of the fuselage clevis, it > would enable the rear wing spar to slide in far enough to eliminate any > forward sweep. I feel that by moving the hole for the rear spar bolt > inboard slightly, edge margin would remain uncompromised. The fuselage is > level and there is sufficient room to bring the rear spar in > before contact > is made with the little spacer in the clevis. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Subject: Re: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A)
I made some "slip shims" or "shoe horns" out of .020 & .016 with a strip if 2024-T3 sticky tape as a handle and the rear fork was able to accept the rear spar with some down english. When completed everything alligned and mated to eachother just fine. I was somewhat surprised that it all mated. Besure there are no burrs or buggers in the spar stubb or clevis so no scraping & hence stress risers occur....... JOHN.CRATE(at)encode.com on 04/04/80 01:42:17 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A) I am in the process of mating the wings to the fuselage to drill the rear spar mount. My problem is that the F-605 clevis is contacting the inboard wing rib preventing further insertion of the rear wing spar. The result is forward sweep of the wings. Both wings have the same problem. I believe if 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch was removed from the end of the fuselage clevis, it would enable the rear wing spar to slide in far enough to eliminate any forward sweep. I feel that by moving the hole for the rear spar bolt inboard slightly, edge margin would remain uncompromised. The fuselage is level and there is sufficient room to bring the rear spar in before contact is made with the little spacer in the clevis. I solicit any advice from those before me on how to proceed. Thanks John Crate RV6A (Hopefully) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV Accidents
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Bill, I just looked at the photo of your crash on your web site. I really hope you can find it in yourself to repair the damage and continue flying. Just like when a horse throws you, you have to get back on. Although I can understand if you don't. Really, the damage doesn't look all that bad at least from what I can see. At least I can say that I know how you feel. I crashed my Aeronca Champ a few years ago. Nosebowl and cowling destroyed, both wood wing spars cracked, wings bent. It was a very sad feeling to unbolt the wings, put them on a trailer, and drive back towing my fuselage from the field I had landed in a hundred times before with no problems. I rebuilt and flew again. I've never looked back. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: pagan [SMTP:pagan(at)cboss.com] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 8:20 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RV Accidents My wife and I would like to thank everyone for the many, many e-mails we received. We've been overwhelmed by the kindness and concern of the people on this list. It would take me the better part of a day to respond to everyone personally. We've been offered help and support from dozens of other builders, lurkers and flyers. We've been offered free counseling and told to even call collect. We are truly humbled by the outpouring and yet, even as we lick our own wounds we are informed of another loss to our group. When considering the most recent loss, the accident of 565BW seems insignificant. We are the lucky ones!! We walked away to be able to tell the story and to choose to fly again or not. Our condolences go out to not only the family and Vans employees but to all of you on the list. As one of the listers who emailed me so eloquently stated, when one of us goes down all of us hurt. It's no accident that when I destroyed my airplane I turned to the people that would understand my grief. There has been a lot of threads on this list recently of people leaving and flaming one another but like any good family, when the times are tough we all pull together. Thank you all. We had many requests to post pictures of the plane on our website and I have done so although somewhat reluctantly. We've also had some inquiries about breaking canopy to get out. The canopy was pretty well busted up and I used my fist and arm to break out a large enough hole to crawl out and pull my wife out. I have a number of cuts on my hand and arm but they are mostly superficial. I doubt I could have gotten out if the canopy had not already been broken. Bill Pagan RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99 http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2000
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
On an RV-4 it is easy: I have a microswitch rigged to my canopy latch mechanism that lights a bright RED panel light when the canopy is open. Useful in several areas but also a shinning RED light if the canopy is open and the master is still on. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Bill
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Fellow Listers: After the difficult time spent last evening, I felt I should comment to you all. Perhaps it is therapy for me more than anything, so please bare with me. Bill and Jeremy stayed with my family this past weekend during the RV Forum. It was a difficult shock to me, my wife, and kids as they all knew Bill well (he has stayed with us each year for the past five Forums). He was a great guy, enjoyed traveling and being on the road extolling the joys of RV flight and I had to drag him to the Sat night banquet after giving ride after ride in the -9A. Jeremy was a great kid with lots of future plans (he was getting married next year) and spent a lot of time with his laptop refining his websites. I saw they off on their leg to LA. We all checked the weather at length and it was good VFR all the way south to the Little Rock area and IFR from there. I kidded them about finding a nice expensive hotel in Missouri somewhere and waiting out the weather. That was their plan. From that point on we can only speculate and perhaps it is best not to jump to conclusions. The great time we all had at our Forum last weekend has been tarnished and all of us in the RV community have suffered probably our greatest loss. Time will heal, but it will be difficult. Doug Weiler MN Wing =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: Re: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A)
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
I had to remove a little from the rear spar plates also. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** On Fri, 04 Apr 1980 05:42:17 "JOHN CRATE" writes: > > I am in the process of mating the wings to the fuselage to drill the > rear > spar mount. My problem is that the F-605 clevis is contacting the > inboard > wing rib preventing further insertion of the rear wing spar. The > result is > forward sweep of the wings. Both wings have the same problem. I > believe if > 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch was removed from the end of the fuselage > clevis, it > would enable the rear wing spar to slide in far enough to eliminate > any > forward sweep. I feel that by moving the hole for the rear spar bolt > inboard slightly, edge margin would remain uncompromised. The > fuselage is > level and there is sufficient room to bring the rear spar in before > contact > is made with the little spacer in the clevis. > > I solicit any advice from those before me on how to proceed. > > > Thanks > > John Crate > RV6A (Hopefully) > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A)
Date: Apr 04, 2000
A local RV-6A builder had the exact same problem. A call to Van's provided him with exactly the same solution. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Don Jordan [SMTP:dons6a(at)juno.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 10:12 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Mating Rear Wing Spar to fuselage (6A) I had to remove a little from the rear spar plates also. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** On Fri, 04 Apr 1980 05:42:17 "JOHN CRATE" writes: > > I am in the process of mating the wings to the fuselage to drill the > rear > spar mount. My problem is that the F-605 clevis is contacting the > inboard > wing rib preventing further insertion of the rear wing spar. The > result is > forward sweep of the wings. Both wings have the same problem. I > believe if > 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch was removed from the end of the fuselage > clevis, it > would enable the rear wing spar to slide in far enough to eliminate > any > forward sweep. I feel that by moving the hole for the rear spar bolt > inboard slightly, edge margin would remain uncompromised. The > fuselage is > level and there is sufficient room to bring the rear spar in before > contact > is made with the little spacer in the clevis. > > I solicit any advice from those before me on how to proceed. > > > Thanks > > John Crate > RV6A (Hopefully) > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV Accidents
Date: Apr 04, 2000
I should also add that I've never crashed again either! -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [SMTP:svanarts(at)unionsafe.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 8:08 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Accidents Bill, I just looked at the photo of your crash on your web site. I really hope you can find it in yourself to repair the damage and continue flying. Just like when a horse throws you, you have to get back on. Although I can understand if you don't. Really, the damage doesn't look all that bad at least from what I can see. At least I can say that I know how you feel. I crashed my Aeronca Champ a few years ago. Nosebowl and cowling destroyed, both wood wing spars cracked, wings bent. It was a very sad feeling to unbolt the wings, put them on a trailer, and drive back towing my fuselage from the field I had landed in a hundred times before with no problems. I rebuilt and flew again. I've never looked back. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: pagan [SMTP:pagan(at)cboss.com] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 8:20 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RV Accidents My wife and I would like to thank everyone for the many, many e-mails we received. We've been overwhelmed by the kindness and concern of the people on this list. It would take me the better part of a day to respond to everyone personally. We've been offered help and support from dozens of other builders, lurkers and flyers. We've been offered free counseling and told to even call collect. We are truly humbled by the outpouring and yet, even as we lick our own wounds we are informed of another loss to our group. When considering the most recent loss, the accident of 565BW seems insignificant. We are the lucky ones!! We walked away to be able to tell the story and to choose to fly again or not. Our condolences go out to not only the family and Vans employees but to all of you on the list. As one of the listers who emailed me so eloquently stated, when one of us goes down all of us hurt. It's no accident that when I destroyed my airplane I turned to the people that would understand my grief. There has been a lot of threads on this list recently of people leaving and flaming one another but like any good family, when the times are tough we all pull together. Thank you all. We had many requests to post pictures of the plane on our website and I have done so although somewhat reluctantly. We've also had some inquiries about breaking canopy to get out. The canopy was pretty well busted up and I used my fist and arm to break out a large enough hole to crawl out and pull my wife out. I have a number of cuts on my hand and arm but they are mostly superficial. I doubt I could have gotten out if the canopy had not already been broken. Bill Pagan RV-8A N565BW First flight 12/19/99 http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Chris_McLellan(at)mail.jbhunt.com
Subject: Re: RV Crash
Date: Apr 04, 2000
My deepest sympathies to the Benedicts, VanGrunsvens, and all the people at Van's. I had a sinking feeling watching video of the wreckage on TV. The first thought I had was "that looks like an RV", unfortunately, I was proven right. I agree that now is not the time for premature speculation regarding the cause of the accident. That tends to be a reflex among pilots after any aviation accident. I know I sure do that. That being said, let me offer my 2 cents. I live about 45 road miles from Pettigrew in Fayetteville. I do know the weather had been MVFR at best all day. I myself had planned to fly to a CAP exercise that morning but had to scrub the flight due to a inop heading indicator. The terrain is pretty mountainous in this part of Arkansas, so the old "1000 and 3" VFR minimums don't really apply here. I'm not going to say more than that because most of what I know comes from the paper. I know better than to quote mainstream reporting as fact when it comes to aviation accidents. Chris McLellan saving for an RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UltralightAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Subject: RV Accidents
As much as we'd like to think so, flying is NOT an exact science. If you fly long enough, you WILL bend some aluminum somewhere along the way. If you haven't, someone else already has. Twice. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2000
From: "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net>
Subject: Re: Bill
I'm a new guy.. Last Fall I went to the Fulton NY, RV forum. I met Bill Benedict. He was there, and gave rides in his RV 8a ALL DAY LONG! Only took a few minutes at noon for a soda. He was swamped with eager RV builders all day long,, 16 hrs straight out.. You could never even see his body for the crowd around him, all firing endless questions, non-stop throughout the day. After dark, Mr. Benedict attended the spaghetti dinner in the hangar. He was again swamped with a crowd of tag-alongs, machine-gunning him with questions about RV prop maintenance, building short-cuts, etc, etc, etc. He made his way over to the only empty chair in the hangar, and set his cold dinner down.. right near me. He hadn't gotten the first 2 bites down, when the man next to him just couldn't contain himself and had to ask about the RV8 accident review with all it's nuances.. Bill answered in great detail, as if it was the very first time that the subject had come up.. I felt so sorry for this man. This man with the patience of a true saint. This true gentleman, who answered every one of 12 gazillion questions with calm sincerity, and forethought.. Never loosing his temper, and engaging each person like an old friend. As he finished off the last bite of his cold dinner, I couldn't help but ask him; "How do you do it?" (a 16 hr day filled with endless RV chit-chat). He snickered, and quietly spoke to me in his simplistic way.. "It's no problem. These are good people" Then we talked of the weather in his home state out west, and other non-RV related stuff. He seemed to enjoy talking about his home with me. Then, as he was gulping down his desert cake, the head speaker called him to the podium for closing comments. He jumped up (desert unfinished), made eveyone glad they came, and thanked everyone for coming. The RV "people" to him, obviously went far beyond a mere job. You could not have paid me enough to put in days like I watched Bill Benedict do. He loved the "RV People".. Plain and simple. And they loved him. In my book, this was a true gentleman. The kind who come along at great interval. The kind who treat a lowly neophyte (me) like an equal. The kind of man who don't ever brag, when they, above all else have the right to. I only met him once, but will remember him for a very long time. I'm deeply sadened by his passing and hope that he will finally get to finish a hot meal & desert, in a better place. http://www.vtxpress.com/rv6/bill_benedict.gif RJ in CT~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Louisville, KY RV's
Date: Apr 04, 2000
I'm currently workinng a project that has me working in Louisville, KY most of the week for the next 3 weeks. If there are any RV builders that would like to show off their projects, talk shop or go flying let me know. Mike Nellis RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2000
From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Bill/Jeremy]
Well said, R. James. I could not have said it anywhere near as well. I had a very similar experience the one and only time I met Bill. I am forwarding to the List an email I sent to Van's this morning about my memory of Bill Benedict. George True Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 10:08:26 -0700 From: George True <true(at)uswest.net> Subject: Bill/Jeremy Dear Van and Everyone, I am numb with shock and sorrow since hearing about Bill and Jeremy late yesterday. I am also sure that whatever I am feeling, you must be feeling a hundred fold. It's hard to know what to say at a time like this, there are really no words. I knew Jeremy only through seeing the excellent work he had done on the website. I met Bill last year at the Homecoming. It was both a memorable and heartwarming introduction. I arrived at Sunset airstrip around noon on Saturday, and registered with Diane. I asked for Bill, as I had spoken with him on the phone the day before about getting a ride in an RV. Diane pointed out this affable-looking gentleman with a beard, wire-rimmed glasses, and wearing a wide-brimmed straw hat who seemed to be running the show. I introduced myself, and was met with a warm welcome from Bill. I liked him instantly. About 20 minutes later, Bill came up to me, threw an arm over my shoulder, and said, "Okay George, it's your turn to fly the RV-8A". A moment later, Bill was strapping me into the back seat of the 8A, and he just had this incredible grin on his face. Just like that, and just that fast, I had my first RV ride. What a great ambassador of goodwill he was. So this is what I remember of Bill - his genuine warmth and friendliness, and how he went out of his way to see that I had a great experience, even though he had never met me before. I can only try to imagine what memories those of you who really knew him must have. And I can't imagine how much it must hurt. And I don't know how someone like that can ever be replaced. You are all in my thoughts and prayers today. God bless all of you. George True Phoenix, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv8don(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Subject: VM 1000 Panel Installation
Anyone out there who's installed a VM 1000 in the panel got any suggestions on how to mark and cut an accurate opening in the panel? The drawing that Vision Micro provides isn't very good. I'm looking at Rev F. Too bad they don't have a punch to rent out! Regards, -Don RV8 NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2000
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: VM 1000 Panel Installation
Call them and ask Lance for a metal template. I have one he sent me with my VM 1000. Bruce Glasair III Rv8don(at)aol.com wrote: > > Anyone out there who's installed a VM 1000 in the panel got any suggestions > on how to mark and cut an accurate opening in the panel? The drawing that > Vision Micro provides isn't very good. I'm looking at Rev F. Too bad they > don't have a punch to rent out! > > Regards, > > -Don > RV8 NJ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Bill & Jeremy memorial service
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Listers: I just spoke with Sharon at Van's and she advised me of Bill and Jeremy's memorial service. It will be Saturday at St. Elizabeth Ann Seton Catholic Church 3145 SW 192nd Ave. Beaverton, OR 97006 Doug =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bmaynard507(at)cs.com
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Subject: Re: RV Crash
Here is newspaper article about the crash. http://www.nwamorningnews.com/2000/april/04/news/0404crashfollowup.shtml ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: RV Crash
Date: Mar 06, 2000
I am chief inspector at work, we had a drill on a missing aircraft last week. None of us knew it was fake. Enacted emergency action plan and all. When told it was test reason given was every day without a crash places us closer to the next, prepare. An awfull feeling. Lets live to tell lies tommorrow. -----Original Message----- From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com> Date: Monday, April 03, 2000 5:26 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Crash > >Numb....yeah, that describes it perfectly. > >numb.... > > >> > >> This is about too much sadness in one day for me to comprehend. Two >deaths, >> and one wrecked RV8A with injured occupants in as many days. Dammit people >> be CAREFUL OUT THERE! >> >> I'm positively numb. >> >> Brian Denk >> RV8 N94BD >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRAYK9(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Subject: RV-6 Wanted
Wanted: RV-6, flying or near completion. Excellent workmanship a must! Email at GrayK9(at)aol.com, or call 480-917-8313 Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 04, 2000
Subject: Re: RV Crash
I just got back Monday evening after driving 870 miles to attend the RV-Forum in Redwing, MN. when Bob Skinner from Buffalo,WY called and asked if I had checked my e-mail since I got home. Of course I hadn't and he preceeded to tell me of the crash that claimed the lives of 2 friends. It's hard to decribe what one feels, its like loosing a family member. Last Friday I had went to Redwing to help set things up. I reaquainted myself with Bill and was introduced to Jeremy. About 20-25 of us went to supper where Bill and Jeremy sat across from me and we precceded to hanger fly for the rest of the evening. Bill was so laid back and patient with the endless questions, which I am sure he had answered thousands of times before. Jeremy had come and looked me up Saturday afternoon and we talked digital cameras for about an hour along with nerdy computer stuff. I want to express my deepest sympathy to the Benedict family as well as the VanGrunsvens. Gods Speed John Danielson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net
Date: Apr 01, 2000
Subject: Labored Engine Start - more data
Hi listers, A while ago I posted a labored engine start I have when it is warm. I took note of everyone's suggestions and have the following data. I haven't changed a thing. All comments are welcome as always. The problem is more of a nuisance so don't spend too many brain cells on this. Besides, why are you preparing for SNF? 1. My starter does not have an ID plate on it so I don't know who made it. It is, however, engraved with MZ 4204 followed by 2G000590 underneath. My hangar mate has a Glasair and he's in the middle of his annual so I looked at his starter. His looked very similar to mine and is made by Aero Electric, Part # 1109673. Do I have a high torque starter? I don't know. 2. I traced the ground cable from the engine to the battery. A bare copper (it appears) cable is connected between the top of the engine and one of the two mounting bolts for the hydraulic resevoir, which is on top left corner of the firewall (engine side), then another cable is attached to a bolt/nut on the side wall of that recessed part of the firewall and leads to the battery. So the firewall is providing continuity between the two cables. Is this sufficient? 3. Resistance from the battery cable to firewall, firewall to copper cable, copper cable to engine, or battery cable directly to engine is absolutely zero while engine is cold. Don't know what it is when hot. Again, I wonder if the firewall itself is sufficient to carry the load? (that's a Pennsylvania question - a statement with a ? at the end. I now live in MD but considers myself Pennsylvania Dutch. But I have Asian blood so go figure). 4. Harvey, if you haven't left for SNF, I counted the # of teeth on the ring gear. 122 teeth. Same as my hangar mate's Glasair. His engine turns over like a mad man. Thanks, Anh N985VU Maryland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: BILL AND JEREMY
GOODBYE OLD FRIENDS-----YOU WILL BE MISSED MIKE [R-V-4] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "steve" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Subject: Bill & Jeremy memorial service
Date: Apr 05, 2000
I would like to send flowers to honor our friends, but do not know if it is proper to send flowers to the memorial or just the funeral. i have recently lost a close cousin and don't remember any flowers at the memorial. also if someone close to vans could keep us posted as to the funeral arrangements it would be appreciated. i don't want to be one of thousands calling to get info, as i would like to give them some time to cope. I'm sure they are inundated with calls already. It is clear they will never be forgotten...... chins up... Steven DiNieri capsteve(at)wzrd.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry walker" <carrabellefl(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: NOTICE: Matronics Web Server Upgrade Tuesday...
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Need Help I'm building a -6 with a 160 IO-320 Lycoming and Hartzell C/S Prop. The engine uses a Bendix throttle body for the injection system. What I need is information on a readily available bracket for attaching the throttle and mixture controls or plans for manufacturing a suitable bracket Jerry Walker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: Re: Bill & Jeremy memorial service
STEVE i talked to Sharon at vans, she said to send flowers to vans and she would make sure they got to the right place. it is a very very sad week , to choked up to talk about it yet. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Bill and Jeremy.
Listers, From the last couple of day's e-mails, it is obvious that Bill Benedict touched the lives of a great deal of people in the RV community, and many of them have written some fine tributes to the outstanding individual that he was. While I had met Bill, I had got to know Jeremy better. I'd like to share my experience for those of you who hadn't had the chance to meet him beyond his internet presence. I had the pleasure of working with Jeremy during the last Van's Homecoming. We flew together for many hours over two fantastic days photographing RV's. We shot the seven stack of RV's that made the cover of the Van's Calendar (Jeremy was very proud of that), the Oshkosh '99 Kit Grand-Champ -6, and numerous other individual RV's. An excellent pilot, Jeremy was certainly one of the best I have worked with. By the time we finished flying together, we had shared many jokes and flying stories. It was like having a brother for a couple of days. We sat under a tree in Van's backyard during the Saturday buffet and chatted about our respective plans for the future. Both of us were in the beginnings of freelance careers, and as I listened to Jeremy talk about his long term plans, I remember wishing that I had things so well sorted as he did. His future was really bright. When I mentioned to Bill how helpful Jeremy had been, and how he had played a key part in the success of the photo efforts, you could tell that he was very proud of his son. Once I was back in the UK we communicated frequently. When one of our pictures made the cover of the March issue of Sport Aviation, I couldn't be sure who was more pleased, him or me. We were pretty sure that with our combined ages being less than 50, we were the youngest team to achieve this. Only last week, Jeremy and I were working out our plan for the photo sorties at this year's Homecoming. Now, I can't really believe that he, or Bill, is gone. I am in no doubt that everyone in the giant extended Van's family feels the same sadness, and as George True said, if we feel bad, then those who knew Bill and Jeremy really well must be devastated. We can't change the past, but we can provide support and sympathy to all at Van's and the Benedict family during this sad time. Ed Hicks. Bristol, UK. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Bill and Jeremy.
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Thank you for sharing. Karl -----Original Message----- From: Edward Hicks [SMTP:EdHicks(at)compuserve.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 08:12 Subject: RV-List: Bill and Jeremy. Listers, >From the last couple of day's e-mails, it is obvious that Bill Benedict touched the lives of a great deal of people in the RV community, and many of them have written some fine tributes to the outstanding individual that he was. While I had met Bill, I had got to know Jeremy better. I'd like to share my experience for those of you who hadn't had the chance to meet him beyond his internet presence. I had the pleasure of working with Jeremy during the last Van's Homecoming. We flew together for many hours over two fantastic days photographing RV's. We shot the seven stack of RV's that made the cover of the Van's Calendar (Jeremy was very proud of that), the Oshkosh '99 Kit Grand-Champ -6, and numerous other individual RV's. An excellent pilot, Jeremy was certainly one of the best I have worked with. By the time we finished flying together, we had shared many jokes and flying stories. It was like having a brother for a couple of days. We sat under a tree in Van's backyard during the Saturday buffet and chatted about our respective plans for the future. Both of us were in the beginnings of freelance careers, and as I listened to Jeremy talk about his long term plans, I remember wishing that I had things so well sorted as he did. His future was really bright. When I mentioned to Bill how helpful Jeremy had been, and how he had played a key part in the success of the photo efforts, you could tell that he was very proud of his son. Once I was back in the UK we communicated frequently. When one of our pictures made the cover of the March issue of Sport Aviation, I couldn't be sure who was more pleased, him or me. We were pretty sure that with our combined ages being less than 50, we were the youngest team to achieve this. Only last week, Jeremy and I were working out our plan for the photo sorties at this year's Homecoming. Now, I can't really believe that he, or Bill, is gone. I am in no doubt that everyone in the giant extended Van's family feels the same sadness, and as George True said, if we feel bad, then those who knew Bill and Jeremy really well must be devastated. We can't change the past, but we can provide support and sympathy to all at Van's and the Benedict family during this sad time. Ed Hicks. Bristol, UK. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Subject: Bill & Jeremy memorial service
Date: Apr 05, 2000
This was the closest ftd florist I could find to north plains. The gentleman that took my order will be working with vans as details emerge. Westside Florist 20455 S W T V Hwy, Beaverton, OR 97006 Tel: 503-642-9992 http://www.ftd.com/westsidefloristor Steven DiNieri capsteve(at)wzrd.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 8:59 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill & Jeremy memorial service STEVE i talked to Sharon at vans, she said to send flowers to vans and she would make sure they got to the right place. it is a very very sad week , to choked up to talk about it yet. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Frisby" <whamo(at)gci.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00
Date: Apr 05, 2000
I just began actual airplane construction last night. I guess I am on my way. Now I have some very basic questions. To prepare the horizontal rear spar channels I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. Although this seemed to render good results I am left wondering if there might be a faster more efficient way to do this. Steven Frisby whamo(at)gci.net Palmer Alaska ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Labored Engine Start - more data
>1. My starter does not have an ID plate on it so I don't know who made it. >It is, however, engraved with MZ 4204 followed by 2G000590 underneath. My >hangar mate has a Glasair and he's in the middle of his annual so I looked >at his starter. His looked very similar to mine and is made by Aero >Electric, Part # 1109673. Do I have a high torque starter? I don't know. >Thanks, >Anh >N985VU >Maryland Anh, I have a Prestolite starter out in the shop with the same MZ number. This starter came off a Cherokee 140. A SkyTec light weight starter will certainly crank the engine over with more gusto than the Prestolite and you will save quite a bit of weight. But, if you're running a wood prop, you may want the heavier starter due to W&B considerations. I'd do a thourough check of your ground before splurging on a new starter. Check for corrosion or poor contact areas. Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA Tech Counselor # 3726 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00)
Date: Apr 05, 2000
[snip] > I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 > and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. Although this > seemed to render good results I am left wondering if there might be a faster > more efficient way to do this. Yes there is. 3M Scotch-brite wheel (Van's p/n TOOL SBW) on a bench grinder, and smaller 2" and 1" wheels on your die grinder (avery, cleaveland, etc. -- don't forget the mandrel) for the smaller 'round the corner pieces. That's it. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00
Steven, The word your looking for is "scotch brite". Get your self over to an Avery's catalog and order a scotch bright wheel for your die grinder ( really cheep from harbor freight ) and a box of scotch brite pads. It will save you a ton of time and your results will be as good as the slower more labor intensive methods. - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ ( fuse - panel ) N89JA (reserved) "Steven Frisby" on 04/05/2000 10:19:58 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00 I just began actual airplane construction last night. I guess I am on my way. Now I have some very basic questions. To prepare the horizontal rear spar channels I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. Although this seemed to render good results I am left wondering if there might be a faster more efficient way to do this. Steven Frisby whamo(at)gci.net Palmer Alaska ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00
>I just began actual airplane construction last night. I guess I am on my >way. Now I have some very basic questions. To prepare the horizontal rear >spar channels I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 >and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. Although this >seemed to render good results I am left wondering if there might be a faster >more efficient way to do this. >Steven Frisby >whamo(at)gci.net >Palmer Alaska Steven, On straight runs, I found that using a hand held belt sander to first smooth the sheared edges allows the "V" deburring tool to do it's best job with little or no chater. A file will work as well, just not as fast. The "V" tool will still smooth the edge pretty good but the chatter will give the edge a wavy appearance. A 6" Scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder will do a good job on irregular shapes such as smoothing ribs in the corners, etc. You can use the "V" tool on ribs, etc. for most areas. Be sure to smooth edges before fluting. Speaking of Scotchbrite wheels, I used both the medium (brown) and lite (gray). I did the "rough" work on the medium and then finished off with the gray. The gray wheel is pretty soft and won't last as long if you use it for all of your work, IMO. I tried to use the "V" tools on everything I could even if I touched the piece up on the SB wheel. The SB wheels will last longer that way. Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA Tech Counselor # 3726 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> > >I just began actual airplane construction last night. I guess I am on my >way. Now I have some very basic questions. To prepare the horizontal rear >spar channels I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 >and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. Although this >seemed to render good results I am left wondering if there might be a faster >more efficient way to do this. >Steven Frisby >whamo(at)gci.net >Palmer Alaska > Yes, A small Scotchbrite wheel in a die grinder. It just takes a few seconds. You need to do it a faster way than by hand, or you will never finish the kit. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00
Steven, Welcome to the fray. I was out in the garage until midnight and then about nine this morning trying to get my wing ribs ready to prime. I'm always looking for faster, but it never seems to come. What I do, to debur many things is as follows. I bought a Delta bench sander that has a 1" belt and a 5" disk at Home Depot for $80. Best money spent (except my squeezer!). I first run the edges across the belt with the work piece 90 degrees to the belt surface. You would be surprised how many burrs that removes. Then you can either use an edge deburing tool, or a 1" 3M wheel in a die grinder. You will go thru a lot of those during the project, however. Finally if you are looking for a great edge (like on the spar strips for the wings, or horiz. stab), you can finish it up with the 6" 3M wheel that you can get at Avery/Cleavland, etc. I mounted mine in a drill press, at about 1,800-2,000 RPM, as the 3500 RPM of the bench grinder was too much for my tastes. That thing gives very soft satin edges. Good luck and welcome to the asylum! Keith Hughes RV-6 Wings Parker, CO Steven Frisby wrote: > > I just began actual airplane construction last night. I guess I am on my > way. Now I have some very basic questions. To prepare the horizontal rear > spar channels I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 > and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. Although this > seemed to render good results I am left wondering if there might be a faster > more efficient way to do this. > Steven Frisby > whamo(at)gci.net > Palmer Alaska > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: Bill & Jeremy
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Scott: In lieu of flowers, I am sending you some money. Please see that Bill and Jeremy's family gets it. Deb & I are so sadden by their loses. Don & Debbie Jordan Arlington, Tx dons6a(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00
In a message dated 4/5/00 10:13:47 AM Central Standard Time, whamo(at)gci.net writes: << To prepare the horizontal rear spar channels I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. Although this seemed to render good results I am left wondering if there might be a faster more efficient way to do this. >> Hi Steve, I use a Scotchbright wheel on my bench g ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00
In a message dated 4/5/00 10:13:47 AM Central Standard Time, whamo(at)gci.net writes: << To prepare the horizontal rear spar channels I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. Although this seemed to render good results I am left wondering if there might be a faster more efficient way to do this. >> Hi steve, I use a Scotchbright wheel mounted on my bench grinder. It works well and leaves a mirror smooth finish. I have a medium texture wheel on one side and fine texture on the other side of the bench grinder. These were bought through Avery. Eric RV-6a Elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 04/04/00
(snip) > I ran the deburing tool down all of the edges then I used 180 > and 320 grit emery cloth to smooth and polish the edges. (snip) I am left > wondering if there might be a faster > more efficient way to do this. > Steven Frisby (snip) I've found the scotchbrite wheels, both the large one mounted in a bench grinder and the small one one a drill or die grinder, to be very efficient. The scotchbrite pads are also useful. Some of it is just slow however. consider it therapy. ;-) James Freeman RV-8Q ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Tools for sale
Fellow RVers, I've finally gotten around to rounding up (most) of my tools and am ready to sell. Here is how I would like to sell them. Due to the fact that there have been problems in the past when something is offered for sale due to how fast various folks receive list mail and some hard feelings occured when someone thought they were the first to respond, I will price the items and wait until after S&F to "pick a winner". If there are several folks who want the item, I will draw the winner. The price quoted is the minimum I would like to sell these items for. You may bid higher if you wish. I hope this will be fair for everyone interested. All items are used unless noted. I tried to put together a "beginners" kit similar to the one offered by the vendors as I don't really want to sell many individual items. Some items such as clecos and bucking bars are not included because I have sold some clecos and not rounded up the strays. I'll be using some bucking bars helping a friend with his RV and will sell them when done. I have a lot of other odds & ends that I'll sell as soon as I round them up. I'll throw in some "bonus" items for the purchaser, my choice. Almost all of the items were purchased from Avery. ********** One pneumatic sqeezer with a 4 inch and 1 1/2 inch yoke with an air line swivel and a flush set. $400.00 ********** 3X rivet gun with retainer spring, regulator and airline swivel Avery hand riveting and dimpling tool micro stop countersink with #40 piloted cutter (new) and #30 piloted cutter 3/32 Cleaveland dimple dies (used very little) 1/8, #6 and #8 dimple dies (Avery) Vice grip fluting pliers Vice grip 3/32 dimpler (end ground down for tight fit areas) Vice grip hand seamer Cleco pliers 1/8 universal short straight set with .401 shank straight flush mushroom set with rubber guard back rivet set with collar (roll pin replaced with nail--roll pins don't seem to last long in these) Left and right tin snips Speed deburring tool #3, #4, #5 & #6 cupped squeezer set 2 - 1/4" flat squeezer sets 1/8 double offset cupped rivet set Avery swivel flush set (needs new "crutch tip" as I cut the original down) Back rivet plate (has been polished on one side to a better finish than received from vendor) 3/8 Rockford air drill Edge rolling tool Hole flanging tool rivet cutter double edge "V" deburring tool swivel deburring tool with extra blades Firewall Forward, Sportplane Construction Techniques and Sportplane Builder by Tony Bengelis RV empennage video (non pre-punched) Angle drill VS and HS jig fixture brackets #6 and #8 plate nut drill jigs nibbler I'd like $800 for these items. This would be a savings of around $375.00. As I said, I will throw in some useful bonus items with a retail value of at least $50.00. Please respond, off-list to: bskinner(at)vcn.com Thanks, Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA Tech Counselor # 3726 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: RV8A Project For Sale
Hi Listers, I've lost my medical and my desire to continue this project & could use the money for other things....the workmanship is good....to excellent.This is my third homebuilt I built a Sonerai ll .....an RV4....and now the 8A. Someone who knows what they are doing could have it flying by the end of summer. I will include all tools needed to complete the airframe.All manuals along with construction videos from the empenage kit to the finishing kit. Think of it as an advanced Quickbuild with a 220+ HP engine. Right now I'm working on the electrical system...{ Nuckolls dual bus system } & instruments, most firewall penetrations done...cabin heat box....all control cables w/ swivel eyeballs....engine mount fitted ready to put on gear & hang engine ....the only thing left to cut out on the instrument panel is for the com & transponder opening .... all floors....seats....done ....baggage comp..floors & walls ...front bag. door done. Canopy frame & slider rails fitted & drilled.....Brake system w/ parking valve installed Rear seat rudder pedals & rear throttle installed Airflow Performance hi pressure fuel pump & filter installed with all fuel lines The only airframe work left is to rivet on the front & rear turtle deck........cut & fit the canopy & skirt and cowling....fit wings to fusalage Here is a list of things included..... Engine......Lyc.IO-360-A1B6... with 10 to 1 compression helicopter cylinders & pistons....flow balanced... the only rebuilt parts on this are the engine case & accessory case.....all other parts new Lycoming. 0hrs. since buildup by Aero Sport Power. This was Bart LaLonde's personal engine that he built for himself...but had to sell Bendix Injection w/ Airflow Systems Purge Valve....Sky-tec starter...2 new Slick Impulse mags....Alternator...fuel pump.All moving parts balanced... Engine has 3 hours of run in time done by Bart and is ready to bolt on & fly. Other items include....... Apollo SL40 com radio------Magellan EC-20X gps built into panel----- Sigtronics ST-400 stereo intercom-----EZE Instr. G Spot electronic G meter New....true airspeed----altimeter----0-3000' vert speed----compass----hourmeter Electronics International dual fuel gage----Whelen 3 strobe lighting syst. Duckworks dual landing lights installed----all wire...switches & connectors to finish airplane.........+ many more misc. items that I can't think of right now The only items needed to finish are..... Prop & Govenor Exhaust syst. EI engine instr group [6] Nav-Aid wing leveler Transponder & encoder Seats & Belts....................= about 12,000.00 in cost PRICE....58,000.00 firm & serious inquires only please Located in the nw suburbs of Chicago Jim Wendel ser.# 80505 Days....773-545-9522 Evenings....847-428-2320 E-Mail.... RV4(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net>
Subject: crash and snf
Date: Apr 05, 2000
has anybody checked into the possibility of getting a missing man formation flown by 4 RV's during SNF? I think that would be a nice tribute. R. Burns RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Subject: Re: [rv8list] RV-8?
Jake, I admire your enthusiasm. As another RV-lister has pointed out, second-hand RV-8 empennages don't seem to be anywhere near as available as RV 3, 4, and 6 empennages. I know, I looked for one for awhile, too. I just recently bought an RV-8 project from another builder, a partially-completed wing kit and an untouched fuselage kit for about half what it would have cost me from Van's. No empennage, so I am in the same boat as you, I will have to buy one, probably from Van's. If you do find an RV-8 empennage, it's probably going to be mostly or completely built already, so you won't get to build it yourself, if you were looking forward to that experience. The usual scenario is that a builder completes the tail, and then decides that for whatever reason he isn't going to continue. You can sometimes find some great deals on partially completed projects, but it's usually a completed empennage plus a partially worked-on wing kit or wing and fuselage kit. I remember seeing a partially-completed RV-6 empennage on E-Bay recently for about $300. You will most likely have your best availability and lowest price looking for an RV-4 or RV-6 project. If your heart is set on the RV-8 (like mine was), then keep looking, you might find something. If you have the ability to work a lot over the summer at someplace that pays a good wage, just work all the time and save your money. I predict that, as time goes on, there will be some great deals available on RV-8 projects. There are also kits that change hands without ever being advertised anywhere. That is how I got mine for such a good price. I would go to the Van's website and go to the links page, and contact every RV group listed there and let them know what you are looking for. Keep checking back. Also go to www.rvators.com and contact the groups listed there. Put the word out far and wide, eventually you will probably connect with the right project at the right price. Where are you located? Are you in Arizona? Good luck, George True Phoenix, AZ Jacob Lauser wrote: > My mother taught me never to assume anything. I'm a bit more resourceful > than most people think, so knowing that the tools alone would cost me > thousands of dollar, I got involved in a local chapter of none > other than the EAA. As a matter of fact, I got involved in TWO chapters, > and by hanging around these fine fellows I secured the use of all the > tools I could possibly handle as well as some valuable building tips from > an RV-6 builder and an RV-4 builder. I literally only need an empennage > kit to start. And I know for a fact that I can benefit from looking for > abandoned projects from people who petered out or lost their medical > because I've seen literally a dozen such projects for sale since I started > looking. There was an RV-3 complete kit sold on E-bay just this week for > $1600. So, I repeat my original request that if anyone runs across an > unstarted or partially finished RV-8 or RV-6 empennage kit that's selling > for $300 or less, please let me know. Thank you... > > ____________________________ > Jake Lauser (KK7GP) > hyperion(at)seds.org > > DON'T HATE YOUR RATE! > Get a NextCard Visa, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as > 0.0% Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees. > Apply NOW! > http://click.egroups.com/1/2120/3/_/607743/_/954950973/ > > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits. For access please send your name and builder number to moejoe3(at)home.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV8A Project For Sale
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Eric, I have a friend in a similar situation (building a Bradley BA-100 {piece of sh-t kits}). Could you provide a little more info on that "FAA self certification" on a per VFR flight basis? Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: RV8 POH
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Lister's, I am several weeks away from moving to the airport for final assembly, inspection & testing. As I am preparing for these events I am beginning to think about the testing phase of my 8A & developing a Pilot Operating Handbook "POH". I have found several real nice RV6 versions on the web that several people have developed. Is there a RV8 version out there? If there is please let me know. Thanks...Mark Mark Steffensen 8A Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: [Fwd: bill and jeremy]
Arthur Glaser wrote: > Doug, > > People on the net are talking about sending flowers. Do you think a > small scholarship fund might be a better way to memorialize and honor > the Benedicts? Perhaps it could help people become pilots or mechanics? > > Art Glaser Doug thought this might be a good idea and suggested running it by the list. Please respond on or off line. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 1982
From: Gordon Giger <giger(at)bmi.net>
Subject: gap seal
The wings on the partially completed kit that i bought has both of the ailerons,in the neutral position, clearing the gap seal by a 1/8 of a inch, the plans show more like 5/16".is this critical?? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 1990
From: cmcgough <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: oil filter screen
I am getting an 0320 D2A from Bart Can someone advise me on weather I should get the spin on oil filter or should I stick with the oil filter screen. Also will the filter get in the way of engine mount or firewall? Thanks Chris RV6 skinning fuse Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Bill & Jeremy
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Fellow Listers: I had a long talk with Dick VanGrunsven today. He mostly wanted to get some idea of the events that transpired regarding Bill and Jeremy's departure from Red Wing. His intended and actual routes are still unknown and where he stopped for fuel. We were also evaluating the weather briefing that Bill and I received just prior to his departure. We didn't discuss any great details other than Bill had a daughter also (age 21). Like all of us, Dick is still in a state of shock. We did not discuss Sun N Fun or the future plans. As I mentioned the memorial is Sat and I did not think to ask him about the time. The MN Wing is sending flowers and Dick said that it would be a nice gesture to send flowers to the church as I previously mentioned. St. Elizabeth Ann Seton Catholic Church 3145 SW 192nd Ave. Beaverton, OR 97006 Art Glaser (who also stayed with us last weekend) has proposed the idea of assembling a memorial fund to be established in Bill and Jeremy's name. He is working on working on the details and I think it might be a nice idea. We do have a large number of concerned RV folks on this list and it may be just a small way that we all can show how much Bill and Jeremy helped us in building and flying these aircraft. If you would like to participate, please send a note to Art and he can determine the response and consider how to administrate such an effort. Art's address is: airplane(at)megsinet.net Many thanks, Doug =========== Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Subject: scholorship
> > Do you think a > > small scholarship fund might be a better way to memorialize and honor > > the Benedicts? Perhaps it could help people become pilots or mechanics? > > > > Art Glaser > > Doug thought this might be a good idea and suggested running it by the list. > > Please respond on or off line. > My EAA Chapter is funding an annual award to be given at Oshkosh every year in the name of one of our members who lost his life in a crash last summer. Any bank would be happy to set up a fund we could donate to at no charge. The Benedict award for best RV at Oshkosh? I think the cost for this through the EAA is about $1000. If more was collected, it could go to having a nicer trophy awarded. I think a scholorship or other memorial is a great idea as well. This is a sad start to the flying season. Hope to see you all at Sun-n-Fun. Dave Burton RV6, wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Van's Website news (DNA)
For those interested, Van's has posted the news of Bill and Jeremy's accident on the opening page of the website see http://www.vansaircraft.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 05, 2000
> >I am getting an 0320 D2A from Bart Can someone advise me on weather I >should >get the spin on oil filter or should I stick with the oil filter screen. >Also will the filter get in the way of engine mount or firewall? > >Thanks > >Chris RV6 skinning fuse >Australia Get the spin on oil filter adapter. I've had both, and REALLY did not like having to remove four bolts to take off the screen housing, instead of just snipping the safety wire and spinning the filter off. The filter media will trap more of the finer crud than the screen, which is pretty much just something to catch the big chunks. Oil change interval is greater with the filter, (50 hrs. vs. 25 with the screen, per Lycoming manual). I don't have a -6, so can't comment on the firewall clearance issue. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD Going flying tomorrow with Bill and Jeremy on my wing.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net>
Subject: Re: Bill & Jeremy
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Hi Doug, Possibly an appropriate place for a memorial is EAA's Memorial Wall. I believe the cost is $650, which includes the upkeep of the facilities. The following is a copy from EAA's page re the Wall. Add'l info and cost must be obtained from EAA. "The EAA Memorial Wall next to the Fergus Chapel is a lasting tribute to those aviation enthusiasts who have gone before us. Since 1989, 874 individuals have been enshrined on the permanent structure. There may not be a finer tribute to pay aviation enthusiasts than to remember the devotion and love of aviation they shared with others. The centerpiece of the wall is a stone rendering of a four-bladed propeller. It is flanked by walls listing the names of inductees. The 1989, 1991, 1993, 1995 and 1997 names are located on the left wall; the 1990, 1992, 1994, 1996 and 1999 names are on the right wall. In keeping with custom, the 2000 inductees will be listed on the left wall. Those honored on the monument are also remembered in a Memorial Wall album that is maintained in the Fergus Chapel. There is an album for each induction year which features biographies and photos of the inductees provided by family members and friends. All albums are available for viewing at the Chapel during EAA AirVenture Oshkosh 2000. If you would like to remember a friend or loved one by participation in the EAA Memorial Wall program, please contact the EAA Aviation Foundation, PO Box 3065, Oshkosh, WI 54903-3065 or call 800.236.1025." Gary Baker RV-6 (Working on wings) N927MG (Reserved) Medina, OH > Art Glaser (who also stayed with us last weekend) has proposed the idea of > assembling a memorial fund to be established in Bill and Jeremy's name. He > is working on working on the details and I think it might be a nice idea. > We do have a large number of concerned RV folks on this list and it may be > just a small way that we all can show how much Bill and Jeremy helped us in > building and flying these aircraft. If you would like to participate, > please send a note to Art and he can determine the response and consider how > to administrate such an effort. Art's address is: airplane(at)megsinet.net > > Many thanks, > > Doug > > > =========== > Doug Weiler ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Airfoil Drawing
hi listers, The search engine is down so maybe I am asking a FAQ, if so sorry. Anyway I cracked the wing crate open for the first time and... no airfoil drawing. Is it hidden in some clever way like the empenage parts were? Haven't removed the wings from the crate, just admiring them. Jim Bean RV8QB N99JA Just finishing empenage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
Subject: flare fittings
Date: Apr 05, 2000
List, Does anyone on the list know what the rule is for proper tightening of flare fittings? Say how many flats after finger tight? Parker-Hannifin and Swagelock for example have such a spec for compression fittings. I don't want to overtighten and stretch the threads or fracture the flare, especially on the fuel lines that I am installing now. Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior, systems and wiring. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Subject: Re: Airfoil Drawing
Jim, the airfoil drawing is notoriously innacurate. You will do better by simply tracing the outline of the ribs onto the plywood. Clamp a leading edge rib flange-to-flange to a main rib and you have most of the shape you need. I used the flap and aileron drawings to construct an extension of the wing shape beyond the end of the main rib. Look at the drawings and you will see what is required. Don't forget to allow a little for the skin thickness. Andy Johnson, wings almost done, fuse kit arriving end of April. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV Accidents
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Bill: You're a better man than I am...I admire the courage that it took to publish your story on the list and then suffer the humiliation of having the whole RV community see the pictures of the damaged airplane. I can imagine how painful this must have been for you. I, like many others, have been following your progress on your web page and was really excited to follow along on your first flight. So it's almost as if a good friend had had this happen to him. My sympathies to you and your brave wife...I only hope you guys will get right back up on that horse and go for a ride again. I think it would be tremendous if we all could now follow your progress to get that plane flying again via your web site. We're all with you, friend. Good luck with whatever path you decide to take. Best wishes, Pat Hatch RV-4, N17PH @ INT RV-6, Wing Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 11:19 PM Subject: RV-List: RV Accidents > > My wife and I would like to thank everyone for the many, many e-mails we > received. We've been overwhelmed by the kindness and concern of the people ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The VonDanes" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Airfoil Drawing
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Mine was drawn on the inside of the bottom of the crate... Bill VonDane - Colorado Springs, CO RV-8A - N912V - Wings http://vondane.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 3:50 PM Subject: RV-List: Airfoil Drawing hi listers, The search engine is down so maybe I am asking a FAQ, if so sorry. Anyway I cracked the wing crate open for the first time and... no airfoil drawing. Is it hidden in some clever way like the empenage parts were? Haven't removed the wings from the crate, just admiring them. Jim Bean RV8QB N99JA Just finishing empenage. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 05, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: flare fittings
1 flat from finger tight, but no more than 2 flats. > > List, Does anyone on the list know what the rule is for proper tightening > of flare fittings? Say how many flats after finger tight? Parker-Hannifin > and Swagelock for example have such a spec for compression fittings. I > don't want to overtighten and stretch the threads or fracture the flare, > especially on the fuel lines that I am installing now. Thanks, Jeff > Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, > fuselage almost, fuselage interior, systems and wiring. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gusndale(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Re: What time is the memorial service? (DNA)
Gary, I talked with Sharon at Van's today. The Memorial service is at 11:00AM on Saturday. Dale Wotring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Re: Airfoil Drawing
In a message dated 4/5/00 7:24:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jim-bean(at)att.net writes: << Anyway I cracked the wing crate open for the first time and... no airfoil drawing. >> Look on the inside of the lid of the long box. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
\"Hanson, Gary\""
Subject: Re: Bill & Jeremy
Date: Apr 05, 2000
Gentlemen: Bill's EAA Chapter 105 has already begun the process of putting his name on the memorial wall. I doubt there will be any need for additional contributions, but if you want to inquire, contact Gary Hanson, Treasurer of Chapter 105, at slhanson(at)teleport.com. Thanx, Rion Bourgeois ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Baker <gtbaker(at)bright.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 5:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill & Jeremy > > Hi Doug, > > Possibly an appropriate place for a memorial is EAA's Memorial Wall. I > believe the cost is $650, which includes the upkeep of the facilities. The > following is a copy from EAA's page re the Wall. Add'l info and cost must be > obtained from EAA. > > "The EAA Memorial Wall next to the Fergus Chapel is a lasting tribute to > those aviation enthusiasts who have gone before us. > > Since 1989, 874 individuals have been enshrined on the permanent structure. > There may not be a finer tribute to pay aviation enthusiasts than to > remember the devotion and love of aviation they shared with others. > > The centerpiece of the wall is a stone rendering of a four-bladed propeller. > It is flanked by walls listing the names of inductees. The 1989, 1991, 1993, > 1995 and 1997 names are located on the left wall; the 1990, 1992, 1994, 1996 > and 1999 names are on the right wall. In keeping with custom, the 2000 > inductees will be listed on the left wall. > > Those honored on the monument are also remembered in a Memorial Wall album > that is maintained in the Fergus Chapel. There is an album for each > induction year which features biographies and photos of the inductees > provided by family members and friends. All albums are available for viewing > at the Chapel during EAA AirVenture Oshkosh 2000. > > If you would like to remember a friend or loved one by participation in the > EAA Memorial Wall program, please contact the EAA Aviation Foundation, PO > Box 3065, Oshkosh, WI 54903-3065 or call 800.236.1025." > > Gary Baker > RV-6 (Working on wings) > N927MG (Reserved) > Medina, OH > > > Art Glaser (who also stayed with us last weekend) has proposed the idea of > > assembling a memorial fund to be established in Bill and Jeremy's name. > He > > is working on working on the details and I think it might be a nice idea. > > We do have a large number of concerned RV folks on this list and it may be > > just a small way that we all can show how much Bill and Jeremy helped us > in > > building and flying these aircraft. If you would like to participate, > > please send a note to Art and he can determine the response and consider > how > > to administrate such an effort. Art's address is: airplane(at)megsinet.net > > > > Many thanks, > > > > Doug > > > > > > =========== > > Doug Weiler > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: gap seal
Date: Apr 06, 2000
One of my gap seals ended up about 1/8 inch so I called Van's on it. They said I needed at least 1/4 inch, so I drilled out the rivets and did it over again. This time I taped 1/4 inch spacers to the aileron to establish the gap. The pop rivets drill out easily if you punch out the mandrel first. The trick was fishing all the swarf out of the finished wing after drilling the rivets out. I sucked them out with a shop vac hose stuck up in the wing. You may want to consult Van's on this. Mark McGee RV4 Fuselage Upstate NY, moving to Atlanta in May -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gordon Giger Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1982 4:53 PM Subject: RV-List: gap seal The wings on the partially completed kit that i bought has both of the ailerons,in the neutral position, clearing the gap seal by a 1/8 of a inch, the plans show more like 5/16".is this critical?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Typically if you go with a filter you will likely change your oil every 50 hours whereas if you go with the standard screen you will change every 25 hours. The screen has no bypass meaning that all the oil will go through the screen at all times whereas the filter setup has a bypass that lets the oil by the filter and some would say backflush the filter when the oil is very viscous (ie. during startup). I don't think there is much doubt that the filter setup will allow you to change the oil a bit faster. I currently have the screens on mine and although I've only changed the oil on my new bird only twice (first oil change at 5 hours), it only takes me 30 to 40 minutes. I'm running 15W50 though and it's pretty pricey so I'm thinking of changing over to the filter setup now. I thought it was better for me to run the screen for the initial break-in and then switch to the filter after the engine has (hopefully?) made most of it's metal. If you go the filter route consider getting a filter cutter so that you can see what's getting


March 29, 2000 - April 06, 2000

RV-Archive.digest.vol-ig