RV-Archive.digest.vol-ih

April 06, 2000 - April 14, 2000



      pulled out.  Either way oil analysis should be serious consideration.
      
      By the way I purchased my 15W50 direct from Shell and saved quite a bundle
      on the price when purchased in gallon containers over what the FBOs charge
      here.  Also, they got it to me the next day although I didn't rush order it.
      One of the many benefits of living in Texas I guess.
      
      Gary Fesenbek
      N152
      Dallas, TX
      
      >>I am getting an 0320 D2A from Bart Can someone advise me on weather I
      should
      >>get the spin on oil filter or should I stick with the oil filter screen.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: flare fittings
Date: Apr 06, 2000
>Does anyone on the list know what the rule is for proper tightening > of flare fittings? Actually there is a spec for this based on the size of the fitting I think it is in the AC manual from the FAA. If you have a problem finding it let me know. I have the books and can give you the numbers. There is a torque spec for just about everything in there. Gary Fesenbek N152 Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2000
From: "Douglas E. Bostard" <dougacft(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/05/00
Van's makes a bracket which is not too expensive, which is good, since you may have to discard it or modify it the way I did to acheive the right "throw" on the throttle/mixt cables as well as accommodating the cable housing jam nuts. I have a 0320A2B. A lotyof people make one up out of small welded chromoly triangle shaped config. I'm not too sure that isn't the way to go. Likewise the prop governor bracket. Good luck! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv660wm(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Re: flare fittings
In a message dated 4/6/00 8:51:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com writes: << I have the books and can give you the numbers. >> Gary, I would appreciate the numbers for flare torqueing. It always looked like a bugaboo that the brake lines are critical items for roll out on castering nosewheel airplanes and we have the fittings buried in wing roots and wheel pants so that they are not in preflight checks. Not to mention fuel fittings which could turn you into a glider!! Bernie Kerr, 6A about ready to start first time, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116)
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Re: flare fittings
> Gary, > > I would appreciate the numbers for flare torqueing. > > Bernie Kerr, 6A about ready to start first time, SE Fla > > Bernie-- You should get THE BOOK, you'll need it anyway for future reference for just about anything in your aircraft. FAA pub. AC 43.13-1B/2A "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices--Aircraft Inspection, Repair and Alteration" available online, from the FAA (government printing office), FBO book shops, etc. On line see http://www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/faqhmblt.htm Boyd RV S6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: -4 wing build time
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Listers, I'm trying to get an idea of when to order my fuselage kit. If it took me 30 days to build the empennage (not pre punched), how long should I expect it to take for the wings. I intend to build both wings at once, while putting in roughly the same amount of time per day. So how much larger of a project are the wings compared to the empennage....double, triple, more? Thanks Bill -4 emp pretty much done ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2000
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: flare fittings
you can always use the four finger method do not archice --- "InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116" wrote: > (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with ESMTP > > > > Gary, > > > > I would appreciate the numbers for flare > torqueing. > > > > Bernie Kerr, 6A about ready to start first time, > SE Fla > > > > > Bernie-- > > You should get THE BOOK, you'll need it anyway for > future reference for > just about anything in your aircraft. FAA pub. AC > 43.13-1B/2A > "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and > Practices--Aircraft Inspection, > Repair and Alteration" available online, from the > FAA (government > printing office), FBO book shops, etc. > > On line see > http://www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/faqhmblt.htm > > Boyd > RV S6 > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Re: flare fittings
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
AC 43-13, page 165-1. The page # are screwy but it is in Chapter 10. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** > List, Does anyone on the list know what the rule is for proper > tightening of flare fittings? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior, systems and wiring. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Re: Airfoil Drawing
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Drawn on the top piece of plywood. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** . no > airfoil drawing. Is it hidden in some clever way like the empenage > parts were? Haven't removed the wings from the crate, just admiring > them. > > Jim Bean > RV8QB N99JA > Just finishing empenage. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Picking up RV-8QB
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Hi all, I finally did it...I ordered the rest of the RV-8. I will be picking up the kit on May 8th from Van's. Anybody know of a good place to stay close to the factory, or any RV's to check out on Sunday. The factory will be closed on Sunday and if I get in early I'll be looking for something to do.... Thanks, Ed Perry edperry64(at)netzero.net Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Re: Bill & Jeremy
In a message dated 4/5/00 6:29:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes: << Art Glaser (who also stayed with us last weekend) has proposed the idea of assembling a memorial fund to be established in Bill and Jeremy's name. He is working on working on the details >> I like it. If the family and Van's approve and are willing to administer a memorial aviation scholarship fund you can count me in. Harry Crosby ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 06, 2000
> If you go the filter >route consider getting a filter cutter so that you can see what's getting >pulled out. Either way oil analysis should be serious consideration. > >Gary Fesenbek >N152 >Dallas, TX Speaking of filter can cutters, I just bought one from Skyranch. A most EXCELLENT tool. They really make a nice unit, complete with holding device that mounts to the bench. It sliced the can open no problem. Total cost of both: $90. Pricey? sure, but the good stuff usually is. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: flare fittings
Date: Apr 06, 2000
In the current AC 43-13-1B it is table 9-2 on page 9-19 which is chapter 9 section 2. Chapter 10 is Weight and Balance Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com> Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 10:54 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: flare fittings > > AC 43-13, page 165-1. The page # are screwy but it is in Chapter 10. > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ********************************************************************** > > List, Does anyone on the list know what the rule is for proper > > tightening of flare fittings? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ > reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, > fuselage interior, systems and wiring. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Oil Door Hinge
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Karl, Thanks, they just got delivered and are exactly what I was looking for. I was also really impressed with McMaster-Carr. I ordered them from their web site Tues night about 11pm and they showed up Thurs at 2pm via UPS ground from Atlanta. This despite never having ordered from them before, i.e. no account, and all I ordered were the hinges. They didn't charge anything for shipping & handling. Total bill for 2 stainless steel hinges was $7.06. Certainly won't be my last order to them. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY (assigned) 90% done, 90% to go > > McMaster-Carr has one that will work.Page 2645 of catalog > #106, lower left > corner. I used 2 of them for my glove box door.They are > made to be welded > but I drilled and tapped them for 6/32 screws, could be > riveted also. This > is the same type of hinge that is used on the oil door of the > 6 on last > months EAA Sport Avaiation cover. Karl > > -----Original Message----- > From: Gregory Young [SMTP:gyoung@cs-sol.com] > Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 01:00 > To: RV List > Subject: RV-List: Oil Door Hinge > > > Does anyone have a method or source to hide the hinge on the > oil access > door? I've got options with the latches (camloc, hartwell & > others) but I > really don't want the hinge visible. I envision something > like the luggage > smasher hinges on some car trunks but about 1 inch radius. My > efforts to > create similar functionality have been somewhat less than elegant. > Suggestions are welcome. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Re: -4 wing build time
Hi Bill, Lots of factors to consider when answering this one. New builder versus third or fourth project Fabricating the spars versus preassembled spars Priming everything versus non-prime complete with wintips and lights installed or rough finished heated pitot versus straight tubing electric aileron trip versus not full time effort - 12 hours day workaholic versus job and married with kids Vans wrote a very nice article a couple of years ago in the RV-Ator on how long it takes to build an RV. One gentlemen completed an RV6-A in about 90 days. While the article won''t be an exact match, the ratios of time per section will probably be close. In my case the empenage took 5 months and the wings took a little over a year. My guess is a factor of four times the hours. There is a pretty steep learning curve on the empenage. Hope you can take the time to enjoy the journey! Tom Brown - RV-4 "wiring and finishing details" "Married with children" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Subject: oil filter screen
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
If I cut the can off the filter, is the junk on the outside of the filter pad OR is it on the inside??? Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** > Speaking of filter can cutters, I just bought one from Skyranch. A > most EXCELLENT tool. They really make a nice unit, complete with holding > device that mounts to the bench. It sliced the can open no problem. Total > cost of both: $90. Pricey? sure, but the good stuff usually is. > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Subject: oil filter screen
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
This note I got off the list. I was thinking about you & didn't notice he was using Shell. You did a good job of explainning the differance in them , so I am going to send it to the archives without you name of course. I would hate for you to do any work. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** > I would recommend using the spin on filter. As your friend told you > it will be faster to change and extend the time between oil changes. I do not > recommend trying to run your oil change intervals beyond 50 hours. Changing > oil is the cheapest and best maintenance you can do for your aircraft! I was a > bit surprised to hear that your friend was using AeroShell 15W50 to > break in his motor. I believe that even Shell would recommend that he use a > mineral base oil with out synthetic blend to assure the rings seat properly. The > AeroShell 15W50 is a synthetic blend piston aviation oil that is recommended by > Shell for after break in. With the synthetic components in the oil this will not > allow for proper break in. The synthetic component is also the reason for the > higher price oil. > > Don, I obviously want you to make your own decision on which oil you > use to operate your RV6. Phillips does offer a multigrade oil like Shell. > Phillips is called X/C 20W50. This oil does not have synthetic components in its make up and can and is used by engine overhaulers as break in oil. The reason being > that this oil is a mineral base oil which will allow break in as well as the > multi viscosity characteristics that enhance oil flow at start up. As I > am sure you know -- 90% of engine wear occurs during the first 5 minutes of > start up. This is why a multi-vis oil is so successful. The 20W50 at ambient > temperature will have the characteristics of a 20 weight oil (the 20W stands for 20 > winter or cold not weight) At operating temperature the viscosity index > improvers in the oil react to keep the oil from thinning as a straight 20 weight oil > would but rather act as a 50 weight during operating temperatures. You can > see that this creates the best of both worlds. Thinner oil at start up to > increase circulation to avoid prolonged metal to metal friction and > characteristics to operate at temperature like a heavy straight weight. The VI > (viscosity index) improvers are also less susceptible to shear or change viscosity > than straight grades. Over the life of oil in a combustion engine the oil will > actually increase in viscosity or become thicker. This is more of a problem > with straight grade than multi-grade. > When you consider the freight for such a small quantity of oil to be shipped direct to a customer it can often be cheaper to buy from a wholesaler who buys truck load quantities and their price is substantially less than you would pay at a FBO. Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Bill & Jeremy Scholarship fund and memorial
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Listers, There has been interest already in various memorials for Bill and Jeremy Benedict. I am now aware of two initiatives: the EAA memorial at OSH, and a scholarship fund. The folks at Bill's Chapter 105 have already begun the process of including Bill on the OSH memorial. To those who are interested and able-- A scholarship fund has been set up as a memorial to Bill and Jeremy. Contributions can be made at: Bill and Jeremy Benedict Memorial Scholarship Fund University of Portland Development Office 5000 N. Willamette Blvd. Portland, OR 97203 I don't know any of the detail on the Scholarship Fund at this point but will try to post more as it is available. Randy Lervold ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2000
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: bill and jeremy]
I just spoke to Sharon and Sandy at Vans. The scholarship fund at the university was set up by friends of Jeremy and is for the University. They thought the idea of a memorial fund for scholarships in aviation or something similar would be nice. Sandy will discuss this and several ideas with Van and hopefully get back to me next week or when possible. I asked her to express my sadness over these events and to express condolences. If we could get a permanent fund going that could be administered through Vans it might work out. The Rvator would be a good avenue for applications for the scholarships which could be larger or several smaller ones to help with books etc. I will let you know what I find out. At this point I estimate that +- 30 people have responded saying to count them in and offering some very nice contributions. It would be a good memorial to a man and his son who have both done much to help others. Thanks for the responses. Art Glaser ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: SportAir Electrical Systems Class
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Has anyone took the SportAir Electrical Class? Was it beneficial. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: -4 wing build time
Date: Apr 06, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com> Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 10:33 AM Subject: RV-List: -4 wing build time Bill, The RV-4 Wings are a lot like the RV-6 wings. I don't know how many hours "30 days" represents but it took me about 3 times as long to complete both my wings as it did my tail feathers. My builders log shows about 250 hrs. for the tail feathers (complete incl. fiberglass tips), and about 800 hrs. for the wings (complete incl. the wingtips and landing lights). Hope this helps! Tommy in Ridgetop 6A fuselage ready to come out of jig! > >Listers, I'm trying to get an idea of when to order my fuselage kit. If it >took me 30 days to build the empennage (not pre punched), how long should I >expect it to take for the wings. I intend to build both wings at once, >while putting in roughly the same amount of time per day. So how much >larger of a project are the wings compared to the empennage....double, >triple, more? > >Thanks >Bill >-4 emp pretty much done > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: SportAir Electrical Systems Class
Date: Apr 06, 2000
I took it back in '98. My feedback is on my website under "Other Stuff". Larry Bowen RV-8 wings Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Calvert > Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 5:57 PM > Has anyone took the SportAir Electrical Class? Was it beneficial. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > -6 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
> I'm running 15W50 though and it's pretty pricey so Yes it's pricey, but still cheaper than the Mobil 1 I run in my car. > > > By the way I purchased my 15W50 direct from Shell and saved quite a bundle > on the price when purchased in gallon containers over what the FBOs charge > here. Also, they got it to me the next day although I didn't rush order it. > One of the many benefits of living in Texas I guess. I also ordered direct from Shell. 60 quarts (2 six gal cases, 1 12 qt. case). Cost about $3.90/qt delivered to my door and all I had to do was click a few mouse buttons and whip out my wife's credit card. Next time I think I shall get off my lazy but and drive down to the local Aeroshell Distributor and save the shipping cost. If you have a distributor near by the 15w-50 is about 3.10/qt. Gary Zilik N99PZ - 31.4 hrs > > > Gary Fesenbek > N152 > Dallas, TX > > >>I am getting an 0320 D2A from Bart Can someone advise me on weather I > should > >>get the spin on oil filter or should I stick with the oil filter screen. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: flare fittings
Date: Apr 06, 2000
If you give paragraph #, it is easy. There are no 2 paragraphs in 43.13 the same, numbered sequentially. ( I do references alot, chapter- section gets confusing). -----Original Message----- From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 11:12 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: flare fittings > >AC 43-13, page 165-1. The page # are screwy but it is in Chapter 10. > >Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com >********************************************************************** >> List, Does anyone on the list know what the rule is for proper >> tightening of flare fittings? Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ >reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage almost, >fuselage interior, systems and wiring. >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 06, 2000
> > >If I cut the can off the filter, is the junk on the outside of the filter >pad OR is it on the inside??? > >Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com Don, Any engine gunk will be most likely found on the inside. At least that's where I found the few, tiny chrome flecks when I pulled the pleated filter paper away from the body of the filter. There must be a better way to remove the thing, but I just couldn't seem to come up with it. I just used a knife to slice it top and bottom, then pulled each pleat away from the inner core. The can cutter leaves no metal from the cutting operation, it opens the can up like a can opener, by punching through the can with a rolling, hardened cutter wheel. This is why you can't use a hack saw to just saw the thing apart...you'd never know what metal debris came from the cutting operation, or came from the innards of that expensive Lycosaur. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD too *&$ % windy to fly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 06, 2000
On the outside! Flow is outside to inside. otherwise the paper would blow up and rupture. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 7:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter screen > > > > > > > >If I cut the can off the filter, is the junk on the outside of the filter > >pad OR is it on the inside??? > > > >Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > > Don, > > Any engine gunk will be most likely found on the inside. At least that's > where I found the few, tiny chrome flecks when I pulled the pleated filter > paper away from the body of the filter. There must be a better way to > remove the thing, but I just couldn't seem to come up with it. I just used a > knife to slice it top and bottom, then pulled each pleat away from the inner > core. The can cutter leaves no metal from the cutting operation, it opens > the can up like a can opener, by punching through the can with a rolling, > hardened cutter wheel. This is why you can't use a hack saw to just saw the > thing apart...you'd never know what metal debris came from the cutting > operation, or came from the innards of that expensive Lycosaur. > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > too *&$ % windy to fly > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV builders in Oslo?
I may be heading to Oslo, Norway to do some flight testing in the last half of April. Are there any RV builders in the area who would be interested in showing off their project or flying RV? This trip is not 100% certain, and the schedule is still not fixed. Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (riveting fuselage skins) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz)
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Panel Pilot
Hi gang, I use the salutation because we are a unique group and I really appreciate all the help, inspiration and direction I have gotten from you. The responses to the recent tragedy are definitely indicative of a group of dedicated and feeling people. May I also send my condolences to the RV family as we have lost two great individuals. I also want to use this space to applaud one of our fellow list readers and vendors. I was steered by this list to call Steve Davis in Memphis, the "Panel Pilot". I was able to visit his shop last Thursday to start layout of my panel in his computer and then again this Wednesday to finalize it and cut my practice panel. Steve is not an RV builder (he is rebuilding a Cessna 120) but because he works a lot with us he reads this list to keep up with our activities. Because of this he was the one that informed me of the RV-9A crash. I was impressed that one of our vendors cares so much about us as a group that he follows the news so closely. If you haven't finished your panel yet (or even if you have) I'd like to suggest that you give Steve a call to discuss your plans and his capabilities. I took him my layout (only 6 different "Final" versions with many sub-versions played with) and he drew it on his computer with his Auto-CAD program. It was really impressive to watch him "sketch" out my ideas with all the dimensions just right. Don't get in his way while he is drawing. I don't know how he keeps his keyboard and mouse from overheating. The end result is an 8 1/2 X 11 drawn version for doodling on, a full scale drawing and a practice panel cut out of plexi-glass so you can see behind the panel. Very useful for checking out your design to make sure you have good clearances, especially with all the junk (er, cool stuff) I crammed into mine. Steve is one of the few who can do both the hole cutting and engraving, most people are limited to one function. He can engrave on the aluminum or do an overlay with back or front engraving. He recommends the back engraving to give you a smooth surface with lettering and panel in the color of your choice. He can use your supplied panel or cut out of a thicker .090 sheet to get a custom size. As you can tell I am very pleased with his work but you can check it out on his web page: http://members.aol.com/PANELCUT or call him at 901-527-5265 As many of you know, he even does your fuel caps. Joe Waltz RV-8, DWH Houston, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank A. Reed" <fareed(at)ibm.net>
Subject: Memorial to Bill & Jeremy
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Fellow listers, As one for whom the bell tolls, my personal tribute to Bill will be to have my 6A in the air during the time of the memorial service. I just read that it is at 11:00PDT which will be 2:00 here on the east coast. (1800 UTC). I did not build my airplane. I bought it in Atlanta last fall and flew it home to New Hampshire just about the time Bill was in the area with the demo 8A. Gene Lamos, a friend of Bill's, organized a dinner for all of the RV people in the area and that night Bill spent hours answering our questions. Every once in awhile he would think of something that I should know about flying the 6A and he spent much of that evening giving me advice and information that was priceless. I have thought of him often as I enjoy flying this marvelous airplane and have decided that I could not offer a better tribute to him and Jeremy than to be in the air as their family and friends on the other side of the country say their last farewell. Frank Reed N89PC Hudson, NH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 06, 2000
> > > > > >If I cut the can off the filter, is the junk on the outside of the filter > >pad OR is it on the inside??? > > > >Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com The flow of oil in nearly all spin on or cartridge type oil filters or screens is from the outside in. This is because the center tube of the filter supports the inside pleat and prevents collapse of the media (paper). Hence the metal should be found inside the can, but outside the cartridge that is in it. After opening a filter with a filter cutter, a large can opener type device, cut the pleats around the top and bottom of the cartridge with a sharp utility knife, then cut one of the pleats vertically against the center tube. Grab the paper and pull it out. lay it on a flat surface under a good light and inspect the filter media. Some metal is normal. a magnet will find the ferrous metals. Nitric acid will cause aluminum to fizz and lead will not. In the big round engine the ROT (rule of thumb) is if the metal is not enough to cover a finger nail it is not enough to be concerned about, if you found that much metal in a Lycoming, it would probably be indicitave a problem. Tailwinds Doug Rozendaal www.petroblend.com/dougr dougr(at)petroblend.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Panel Pilot
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Many of you who have been around on the list for a while have already seen this, but for those of you are relatively new to the list, I have documented the process that Steve does when he built my panel. You can see this process at: http://members.home.net/rv8er/panel/panel.htm Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er Finish Kit ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Waltz" <TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net> Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 7:02 PM Subject: RV-List: Panel Pilot > > Hi gang, > > I use the salutation because we are a unique group and I really > appreciate all the help, inspiration and direction I have gotten from > you. The responses to the recent tragedy are definitely indicative of a > group of dedicated and feeling people. May I also send my condolences > to the RV family as we have lost two great individuals. > > I also want to use this space to applaud one of our fellow list readers > and vendors. I was steered by this list to call Steve Davis in Memphis, > the "Panel Pilot". I was able to visit his shop last Thursday to start > layout of my panel in his computer and then again this Wednesday to > finalize it and cut my practice panel. Steve is not an RV builder (he > is rebuilding a Cessna 120) but because he works a lot with us he reads > this list to keep up with our activities. Because of this he was the > one that informed me of the RV-9A crash. I was impressed that one of > our vendors cares so much about us as a group that he follows the news > so closely. > > If you haven't finished your panel yet (or even if you have) I'd like to > suggest that you give Steve a call to discuss your plans and his > capabilities. I took him my layout (only 6 different "Final" versions > with many sub-versions played with) and he drew it on his computer with > his Auto-CAD program. It was really impressive to watch him "sketch" > out my ideas with all the dimensions just right. Don't get in his way > while he is drawing. I don't know how he keeps his keyboard and mouse > from overheating. > > The end result is an 8 1/2 X 11 drawn version for doodling on, a full > scale drawing and a practice panel cut out of plexi-glass so you can see > behind the panel. Very useful for checking out your design to make sure > you have good clearances, especially with all the junk (er, cool stuff) > I crammed into mine. Steve is one of the few who can do both the hole > cutting and engraving, most people are limited to one function. He can > engrave on the aluminum or do an overlay with back or front engraving. > He recommends the back engraving to give you a smooth surface with > lettering and panel in the color of your choice. He can use your > supplied panel or cut out of a thicker .090 sheet to get a custom size. > > As you can tell I am very pleased with his work but you can check it out > on his web page: > > http://members.aol.com/PANELCUT > > or call him at 901-527-5265 > > As many of you know, he even does your fuel caps. > > Joe Waltz > RV-8, DWH > Houston, TX > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz)
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: Navaid install
To the guys that requested a drawing of my installation of the Navaid servo in an 8, I'm sorry that I haven't gotten that out yet. I'll be doing that tomorrow. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2000
From: George McNutt <gmcnutt(at)intergate.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Don Jordan wrote: > > > If I cut the can off the filter, is the junk on the outside of the filter > pad OR is it on the inside??? > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ********************************************************************** Hi Don Once inside the filter the "junk" is on the outside of the pleated filter element but most is in the very bottom of the pleats. After opening the filter cannister I use a sharp knife to cut the pleated filter on both sides and pull it away from the metal attachment. After removal the filter paper can be unfolded to check for contamination. It is a bit messy and there are various ways of checking for contamination, some folks squeeze the pleated filter paper in a bench vice to get the oil out, some wash in gasoline etc. My 0-320 for the RV is out for overhaul, it has 2200 hrs since new and no oil filter. If the wear level in this eng is low I may continue to run it without a filter. The cost of a filter adapter for the engine, plus the 40 oil filters required for 50 hour oil changes almost costs as much as changing oil every 25 hrs. On the plus side the aircraft will be about 5 pounds lighter and have fresher oil for all those hours it spends sitting around. Hmmmm wonder if there have been any studies on this??? George McNutt Langley B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 06, 2000
> Typically if you go with a filter you will likely change your oil every 50 > hours whereas if you go with the standard screen you will change every 25 > hours. [snip] I have an O360-A1A, with the oil filter on the back of the accessory case, and an oil screen at the bottom of the sump. Is it advisable to check this screen when you change the oil? I checked it once so far and nothing in it (changed the filter every time of course). I have Van's new throttle/mixture bracket which sits right up against the bottom of the sump and makes getting the screen out a super PITA -- there's no way to get a funnel or anything else under the hole when you take the screen out (read, BIG mess). Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 06, 2000
Subject: NOTICE: Matronics Web Server Back Online...
Dear Email Listers, The Matronics Web and FTP server is finally back online! What a nightmare... But at least its finally done and in all honesty the system is running much better. Everything should be working now including the Search Engine, Archive Browser, various List-related pages, Matronics Product Pages, Online Ordering, Real Video server and Contribution pages. Again, I'm sorry it took so long to get things back - way longer than I ever intended. Have fun! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bjc <bjc(at)btconnect.com>
Subject: RV builders in Oslo?
Date: Apr 07, 2000
An list of European Rv builders & owners can be found on our UK RV builders website at www.rv6.co.uk/rv3.htm Barry Clifford RV6A Wings / G-RVBC England ------- snip --------- I may be heading to Oslo, Norway to do some flight testing in the last half of April. Are there any RV builders in the area who would be interested in showing off their project or flying RV? This trip is not 100% certain, and the schedule is still not fixed. ------- snip ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: Kev Gray <kevang(at)fullcomp.com.au>
Subject: stratus engines
I am building an RV6A and considering puting the Subaru Stratus conversion engine into it either the 180 or 160 HP has anyone had any experience with the Subaru engine in a 6 and if so what can I expect in the way of cowl modifications etc and any other unexpected surprises. Kev Gray ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com>
Subject: The newly created Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing (aka The
RV W hite Pages)
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Hello, My name is Doug Reeves and I live just north of Dallas, TX. In 1998, I started 'Vans Air Force - North Texas Wing' as a way for me to meet and contact the RVators around me. As a new builder, I needed all the help I could get. Luckily the list of people to call when I was in a bind grew... In 1999, the site was expanded to include all of Texas and renamed 'Vans Air Force - Texas Wing'. Its phone book listing grew to over 250 builders and fliers you could call with questions. Three months ago, I expanded the Texas Wing of VAF to include the 20 southern states of the US and renamed it 'VAF - Southern Region'. It kept growing (300 listings at present time). Today, in order to (hopefully) create a web site that anyone in the world can go to to locate a RV builder/flier near them, I have once again expanded the scope of my site and renamed it 'Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing' (aka The RV White Pages). It can be found at http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm <http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm)> . Hopefully it will evolve into a fine companion site for Gary VanRemortel's excellent business-oriented RV Builders' Yeller Pages. Unless the planet Mars is colonized and Van's designs a kitplane to traverse its atmosphere, I can't see the scope getting any larger. If you'd like your contact info listed, and are currently building or flying a RV, please go there and sign up (it doesn't cost a cent). In a nutshell, I need the following: A. Your name (required) B. Your phone number (required) C. What you are building (3,4,6,6QB,6A,6AQB,8,8QB,8A,8AQB,9A) (required) D. Where you are in the construction process (empennage, wing, fuse, finishing kit, engine, flying, etc) (required) E. Where you live (country, state, city, province, etc) (required) F. What your N-number is (reserved or active) G. What airport the plane is based at, if flying - ex. KDTO H. Anything else you want (spouse's name, your web site URL, another phone number, etc.) You can send this info to either of my email accounts: * work douglas.reeves(at)archongroup.com * home dreeves(at)metronet.com I've met so many great new friends during the construction of my RV-6 that the least I can do is take some of my work skills (as a web developer) and do something to make the hobby better for the next person coming down the pipe. Thanks for reading and kindest regards, Doug Reeves VAF - World Wide Wing (VAFW3) RV-6 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Subject: Re: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Hey Steve how are things coming? -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- >From: steve.nichols(at)stoneweb.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Hammer-less C-frame dimpler >Date: Wed, Dec 8, 1999, 9:48 AM > > > Listers, > I have modified my c-frame dimpler to work without a hammer. I use two > small air cylinders and a breath-operated actuator valve. This set-up allows me > to keep both hands on the metal while I dimple. The resulting dimples are > uniform since they are hit with exactly the same force every time. I have used > this on my ailerons, flaps and wing skins and have had great results. It takes > one quarter of the time to dimple this way versus the hammer. If there is enough > interest I will make some extra assemblies. There is no permanent modifications > to the c-frame as this unit bolts on to the arm. It has saved me time and much > aggravation. No more holding the metal back with my elbow while I hold the rod > down and try to grab my hammer. If interested please contact me off-list. > > Steve Nichols > RV-4 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Subject: Re: stratus engines
Check with back issues of the RVATOR. About 2 years ago Vans ran a article & I recall the write up being somewhat comprehensive. ALSO...about two issues later the same RV appeared in a article in the RVATOR stating the SUBARU was being pulled & a Lycoming was being installed. CHECK the archives..there is plenty - o - data on the alternative engine option... kevang(at)fullcomp.com.au on 04/06/2000 06:52:02 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: stratus engines I am building an RV6A and considering puting the Subaru Stratus conversion engine into it either the 180 or 160 HP has anyone had any experience with the Subaru engine in a 6 and if so what can I expect in the way of cowl modifications etc and any other unexpected surprises. Kev Gray ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
Subject: To Paint or Not to Paint
Date: Apr 07, 2000
I've kept my rv3 on the ramp, exposed to elements, with a prop and canopy cover for the last four years. I completely primed the interior with epoxy chromate but left the exterior bare aluminum. The exterior is oxidizing as I don't wash or wax it frequently. I thought that's what Alclad was for. I've been told that if I don't paint it soon I'll start to have major corrosion problems. I'm not concerned about the dull oxidized look, however, I don't want corrosion to be what stops me from flying it. Any opinions as to whether I should paint it or how long it will last if I don't? Thanks Gray Linzel Southern Pines, N.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbsouth.com>
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Test...test... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: To Paint or Not to Paint
Date: Apr 07, 2000
My Dad flew C-47's, B-25's and C-118's among others in the Air Force from the early 1950s until the early 1970s. His planes were often left bare. Their skins were Alclad. They did polish some of the planes once a year to keep them shinny. He advises me to leave my RV-6A bare and polished, because he likes the look. A Luscombe on the field here in western Vermont is likewise kept bare and polished once a year. It looks nice too. If I am not mistaken Tom Greene's plane (at Van's) is also unpainted. On the other hand, lots of airplane people tell me that it is a bad idea to leave the plane unpainted for the same reasons you hear. I'd like to know what the experts say, so please post any private replies to the List! Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A panel, FWF and cowl all at the same time! -----Original Message-----I've kept my rv3 on the ramp, exposed to elements, with a prop and canopy cover for the last four years. I completely primed the interior with epoxy chromate but left the exterior bare aluminum. The exterior is oxidizing as I don't wash or wax it frequently. I thought that's what Alclad was for. I've been told that if I don't paint it soon I'll start to have major corrosion problems. I'm not concerned about the dull oxidized look, however, I don't want corrosion to be what stops me from flying it. Any opinions as to whether I should paint it or how long it will last if I don't? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: To Paint or Not to Paint
well here is where the problem is. Alclad in and of itself is only a thin barrier on your aluminum I mean like .002 or less. Any scratches that you or someone else has put on the aluminum now has no alclad and is prone to and will corrode. If as you say you havent washed the a/c (by the way we dont wash aluminum we wipe it down)then I would particularly look at the seams for corrosion. Bare aluminum if you decide not to paint, needs to be polished on a regular basis or it will corrode. Paint on the other hand although we gain a good look cosmetically it is just plain and simple corrosion protection as it is a barrier between the metal and the elements. Hope this has helped you Glenn --- "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" wrote: > 43CES/CECP" > > I've kept my rv3 on the ramp, exposed to elements, > with a prop and canopy > cover for the last four years. I completely primed > the interior with epoxy > chromate but left the exterior bare aluminum. The > exterior is oxidizing as > I don't wash or wax it frequently. I thought that's > what Alclad was for. > I've been told that if I don't paint it soon I'll > start to have major > corrosion problems. I'm not concerned about the > dull oxidized look, > however, I don't want corrosion to be what stops me > from flying it. Any > opinions as to whether I should paint it or how long > it will last if I > don't? > > Thanks > Gray Linzel > Southern Pines, N.C. > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net>
Subject: Kitplanes panel layout article
Folks - There's an article at the Kitplanes website on fundamentals of laying out your panel -- http://www.kitplanes.com/articles/articles.html, then click on "Panel Perfect (October 1999)", the next to last article in the list. Written by an RV-4er -- yours truly. Ed Wischmeyer -- REPLY TO FUNCTION HAS A SPAM BLOCK ON IT, SO USE THIS RETURN ADDRESS: edwisch(at)aa.net NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets. - - - - - - - - Ed Wischmeyer Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch Email: edwisch(at)aa.net name="edwisch.vcf" filename="edwisch.vcf" begin:vcard n:Wischmeyer;Ed tel;fax:425 898-9566 tel;home:425 898-9856 url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052; version:2.1 email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net fn:Ed Wischmeyer end:vcard ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 07, 2000
My personal preference is the oil filter, it keeps the oil in much better condition and as others have mentioned gives you a better way of checking for wear. Was able to use the spin on filter (Champion No ?) without a recess on my 0360 Dyno focal mount on the RV 6 by cutting the nut of the back, flush with the filter body and then use a regular filter strap wrench for installation and removal. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. -----Original Message----- From: cmcgough <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> Date: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 6:14 PM Subject: RV-List: oil filter screen > > >I am getting an 0320 D2A from Bart Can someone advise me on weather I should >get the spin on oil filter or should I stick with the oil filter screen. >Also will the filter get in the way of engine mount or firewall? > >Thanks > >Chris RV6 skinning fuse >Australia > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Subject: oil filter screen
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
> Don Jordan wrote: > > If I cut the can off the filter, is the junk on the outside of the > filter pad OR is it on the inside??? > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > > Hi Don > > Once inside the filter the "junk" is on the outside of the pleated > filter element but most is in the very bottom of the pleats. > > After opening the filter cannister I use a sharp knife to cut the > pleated filter on both sides and pull it away from the metal > attachment. > After removal the filter paper can be unfolded to check for > contamination. It is a bit messy and there are various ways of > checking > for contamination, some folks squeeze the pleated filter paper in a > bench vice to get the oil out, some wash in gasoline etc. > > > My 0-320 for the RV is out for overhaul, it has 2200 hrs since new > and > no oil filter. If the wear level in this eng is low I may continue > to > run it without a filter. > The cost of a filter adapter for the engine, plus the 40 oil filters > required for 50 hour oil changes almost costs as much as changing > oil > every 25 hrs. On the plus side the aircraft will be about 5 pounds > lighter and have fresher oil for all those hours it spends sitting > around. Hmmmm wonder if there have been any studies on this??? > > George McNutt > Langley B.C. > Good Math, except if something (small) gets loose, YOU can have real big problems buy the time you find it. I think a filter is worth that alone. Thanks Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************************************** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: To Paint or Not to Paint
Date: Apr 07, 2000
> I'd like to know > what the experts say, so please post any private replies to the List! > I'd like to know the definition of an 'expert' in this area. Like auto conversions, this topic seems to bring 'experts' out of the woodwork from all directions. I've heard both sides swear by their eye teeth that the other is either completely crazy or wasting their time. I've also heard very convincing arguments in both directions. I'm afraid a builder is left to his own decision making process on this one...... Remember - 'Conventional wisdom is just a rumor that has lasted long enough to be considered fact' Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: oil filter vs screen
Well, I have a question: Someone said if you have a spin-on filter, you only need to inspect the oil screen in the sump at annual/conditional inspection. Opinions? Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
Date: Apr 07, 2000
> > Well, I have a question: Someone said if you have a spin-on filter, you > only need to inspect the oil screen in the sump at annual/conditional > inspection. Opinions? > > Michael > > > Pull the screen. It will only take a few minutes. Remember you are doing the work, you are not paying someone 50 bucks an hour to do the oil change. Craig Hiers RV-4 N143CH- closing in on 100 hours Tallahassee,FL. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
My old timer A&P use to mumble this. My thought was......did you ever see the size of the mesh in the oil pan sump screen ??? Its of no consequence if you have a oil finger screen because if the journels & galleys & tiny passages the oil flows thru on the way to the filter screen would never plug up even if the sump screen mesh did stop my broken con rod laying in the sump..... I only would advise looking into the sump if.... 1- extremely board or 2.-Buying a used engine and want a quick (30 minute) way of checking the health of the engine.......Certainly NOT every annual on the plane you fly....... mikel(at)dimensional.com on 04/07/2000 02:28:28 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: oil filter vs screen Well, I have a question: Someone said if you have a spin-on filter, you only need to inspect the oil screen in the sump at annual/conditional inspection. Opinions? Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: To Paint or Not to Paint
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Paint or polish, no other options. -----Original Message----- From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> Date: Friday, April 07, 2000 8:49 AM Subject: RV-List: To Paint or Not to Paint > >I've kept my rv3 on the ramp, exposed to elements, with a prop and canopy >cover for the last four years. I completely primed the interior with epoxy >chromate but left the exterior bare aluminum. The exterior is oxidizing as >I don't wash or wax it frequently. I thought that's what Alclad was for. >I've been told that if I don't paint it soon I'll start to have major >corrosion problems. I'm not concerned about the dull oxidized look, >however, I don't want corrosion to be what stops me from flying it. Any >opinions as to whether I should paint it or how long it will last if I >don't? > >Thanks >Gray Linzel >Southern Pines, N.C. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Subject: Re: Kitplanes panel layout article
Ed Wischmeyer on 04/07/2000 09:27:55 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Kitplanes panel layout article Thanks Ed, good article. I'm in the process of laying out my panel now as I type. Good advice on the gas gages. I had planed on putting mine on the floor next to the fuel selector switch but your article convinced me to do otherwise. I can just see myself running a tank dry by not having the gages in my commonly scanned field of view. - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ ( fuse - panel ) N89JA (reserved) > Folks - > There's an article at the Kitplanes website on fundamentals of laying > out your panel -- http://www.kitplanes.com/articles/articles.html, then > click on "Panel Perfect (October 1999)", the next to last article in the list. > Written by an RV-4er -- yours truly. > Ed Wischmeyer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu>
Subject: VM1000 Panel Installation
From: Rv8don(at)aol.com Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 18:21:58 EDT Subject: RV-List: VM 1000 Panel Installation Anyone out there who's installed a VM 1000 in the panel got any suggestions on how to mark and cut an accurate opening in the panel? The drawing that Vision Micro provides isn't very good. I'm looking at Rev F. Too bad they don't have a punch to rent out! Regards, -Don RV8 NJ Don, Call Vision Microsystems. They have a metal template that they will send you. I taped it to my panel and used a router with a bearing edge bit to cut it out. Worked like a champ but you get chips everywhere. If you don't have a CNC machine, this is the second best way to do it. Joe (finishing wing root fairings) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin D. Patsey" <kdp1(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Why couldn't you just make that red light an audible alert like your car's headlights? Kevin (RV-6 empennage) ----- Original Message ----- From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 9:50 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: How to not forget your master on?? > > On an RV-4 it is easy: I have a microswitch rigged to my canopy latch > mechanism that lights a bright RED panel light when the canopy is open. > Useful in several areas but also a shinning RED light if the canopy is open > and the master is still on. > > Michael > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: VM1000 Panel Installation
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Wait a second.....you can use a router on aluminum? Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Czachorowski" <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> Sent: Friday, April 07, 2000 5:46 PM Subject: RV-List: VM1000 Panel Installation > > > From: Rv8don(at)aol.com > Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 18:21:58 EDT > Subject: RV-List: VM 1000 Panel Installation > > > Anyone out there who's installed a VM 1000 in the panel got any suggestions > on how to mark and cut an accurate opening in the panel? The drawing that > Vision Micro provides isn't very good. I'm looking at Rev F. Too bad they > don't have a punch to rent out! > > Regards, > > -Don > RV8 NJ > > Don, > Call Vision Microsystems. They have a metal template that they > will send you. I taped it to my panel and used a router with a bearing edge > bit to cut it out. Worked like a champ but you get chips everywhere. If you > don't have a CNC machine, this is the second best way to do it. > > Joe > (finishing wing root fairings) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: To Paint or Not to Paint
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> Subject: RV-List: To Paint or Not to Paint Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> > >I've kept my rv3 on the ramp, exposed to elements, with a prop and canopy >cover for the last four years. Gray: I do not represent myself as an expert but can give you my observations regarding my unpainted RV-4. It has been in an unheated hangar in southeastern Michigan for the last six and one half years. In Michigan the winter/spring condensation cycle is the real killer. It may not be a problem where you are. However, the underside of the aircraft takes a heavy beating and the products of combustion from the exhaust pipes are good at inducing corrosion. The dulling of the surface that you see can likely be polished out but the mechanical and chemical pitting on the underside are more difficult to deal with. With Michigan winters I have resorted to coating the bird with LPS-3 about the end of the year and cleaning with a wax remover in March or April. If the metal is not pitted, polishing should take care of it. I suggest you let the condition of the underside of the -3 determine your course of action. If it cleans up well and you like the shiny look then you are all set. If the bottom needs more help then you could look at painting only the bottom. If you don't like to polish, then paint. Look carefully at polished antique airplanes and you will usually see that the metal is substantially pitted. Once the cladding is breached frequent attention is needed to minimise destruction of the airframe. Alclad is by no means proof against corrosion. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu>
Subject: Re: Router
Tom Barnes wrote: > Joe, I saw your post about using a router to cut the panel hole. I have a > couple Craftsman routers for woodworking. Are you using this type of tool? > Also, where did you get your bits and what size. > > This coule be a real time saver for me. > > Thanks in advance, > > Tom Barnes -6 finishing > Tom, As a matter of fact, I used a Craftsman router and a bit that trims the edges of formica (it has a bearing in it). I taped the template down to the panel (after practicing on scrap several times) and just "kissed" the edges of the template. The bit cuts the aluminum like a hot knife through butter. I bought the smallest bit that Sears had ( I'm sorry that I don't remember the name of this bit but I think it's a 1/4" radius and fits perfectly in the corners of the VM1000 template. The bit has a bearing on it) I taped the template down with 3M glossy packing tape. This made it easy to run the router over it. You will be pleasantly surprised on how the finished product turns out! Almost as good as a CNC. Practice on scraps first. Joe #80125 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: oil filter vs screen
Date: Apr 07, 2000
The issue is conformity to the type certificate. Someone, DAR or IA, has to do a confomity inspection to give it a yellow tag. If they don't know the history in person or through records they can trust, they'll probably need to tear it down. We spent alot of time doing records research, physical inspections and transitional maintenance to re-register foreign registered transports in the U.S. - including our own that we got back from leases to foreign carriers. Same problem, different scale. Greg Young > > > I realize you work for the FAA but what is the basis for your statement > about "once a non-certified person works on"...??? Is there an FAR? > > This would infer that any work by a non-certified person on a certified > engine would make it into a non-certified engine even if it was on a > certified plane. > > This also would infer that the timing of a magneto on an non-certified > installation would require the entire engine to be overhauled. This is > ludicrous! > > > > > > As long as it is mounted on an experimental aircraft you may. Just keep > in > > the back of your mind for future reference that once a non-certificated > > person does maintenance on it then it must be completedly > overhauled if it > > ever goes back on a "certificated" aircraft. But if you keep the engine > > forever then don't worry about it. > > > > Mike Robertson > > RV-8A doing the fiberglass > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2000
From: jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Router
Tom, Thats what I use...Craftman router with a 1/4 carbide bit. It is absolutely the best aluminum cutter available. I got the idea from somebody who said they worked for lockheed and did the same thing. Jason Baker Joe Czachorowski wrote: > > Tom Barnes wrote: > > > Joe, I saw your post about using a router to cut the panel hole. I have a > > couple Craftsman routers for woodworking. Are you using this type of tool? > > Also, where did you get your bits and what size. > > > > This coule be a real time saver for me. > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > > Tom Barnes -6 finishing > > > > Tom, > As a matter of fact, I used a Craftsman router and a bit that trims > the edges of formica (it has a bearing in it). I taped the template down to the > panel (after practicing on scrap several times) and just "kissed" the edges of > the template. The bit cuts the aluminum like a hot knife through butter. I > bought the smallest bit that Sears had ( I'm sorry that I don't remember the > name of this bit but I think it's a 1/4" radius and fits perfectly in the > corners of the VM1000 template. The bit has a bearing on it) > > I taped the template down with 3M glossy packing tape. This made it easy to > run the router over it. You will be pleasantly surprised on how the finished > product turns out! Almost as good as a CNC. Practice on scraps first. > > Joe > #80125 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 07, 2000
Subject: RV-4 For Sale on EBay...
RV Listers, There is a nice RV-4 for sale on EBay right now if anyone is interested. No, its not mine! :-) http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=303265813 Matt Dralle RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be... -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
glenn williams wrote: > > Michael good response but your kinda wrong still > > 1. the airframe and the engine are two different > entities. (hence an airframe log and an engine log) > Proceeding my FAA inspection, I met with an FAA inspector. He told me to have a separate log book for the prop, the engine, and the airframe. I complied wanting the upcoming inspection to go well and had them all prepared. When the inspection came, two FAA men showed up. One questioned why 3 log books and it came out that I had been directed to to that. The inspector said bull, you need only one. He proceeded to have me change it to one and stamped it. More time was spent on that than the inspection. John Kitz N721JK Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
Date: Apr 08, 2000
Another example of our tax dollars at work. Even the FAA doesn't understand all the bull they make us wade through. I smell a cutback coming. :-) Bill Taxpayer > Proceeding my FAA inspection, I met with an FAA inspector. He told me > to have a separate log book for the prop, the engine, and the airframe. > I complied wanting the upcoming inspection to go well and had them all > prepared. When the inspection came, two FAA men showed up. One > questioned why 3 log books and it came out that I had been directed to > to that. The inspector said bull, you need only one. He proceeded to > have me change it to one and stamped it. More time was spent on that > than the inspection. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
Date: Apr 08, 2000
Mike, I knew your reply was coming (thanks to your knowledgeable reply to my previous inquiries). God I love having access to a true expert. With out the right resource to verify information, we all linger in blissful ignorance. I hope you're not insulted, but I mentally have you categorized in the same general area of my brain as "Funk & Wagnall". Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
it is up to the fsdo or the dar to make that decision Glenn --- John Kitz wrote: > > > glenn williams wrote: > > > > > > Michael good response but your kinda wrong still > > > > 1. the airframe and the engine are two different > > entities. (hence an airframe log and an engine > log) > > > > Proceeding my FAA inspection, I met with an FAA > inspector. He told me > to have a separate log book for the prop, the > engine, and the airframe. > I complied wanting the upcoming inspection to go > well and had them all > prepared. When the inspection came, two FAA men > showed up. One > questioned why 3 log books and it came out that I > had been directed to > to that. The inspector said bull, you need only > one. He proceeded to > have me change it to one and stamped it. More time > was spent on that > than the inspection. > > John Kitz > N721JK > Ohio > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lm4(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
Date: Apr 08, 2000
Speaking of filters, has anyone on the list tried the Frantz oil filter ? This is the chrome plated job that uses a roll of toilet paper to do the filtering. It works great in cars but I have to wonder about airplanes. Larry Mac Donald > > >My personal preference is the oil filter, it keeps the oil in much >better condition and as others have mentioned gives you a better way of >checking for wear. Was able to use the spin on filter (Champion No ?) without a recess on my 0360 Dyno focal mount on the RV 6 by cutting the nut of the back, >flush with the filter body and then use a regular filter strap wrench for >installation and removal. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bobdz" <bobdz(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: VM1000 Panel Installation
Date: Apr 08, 2000
> > Wait a second.....you can use a router on aluminum? > > Bill > > With a carbide bit you can. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets
Hello all, I have had several builders contact me recently about the heated pitot tube mounting brackets I make and sell. I have been out of stock for a week on one popular style of the brackets I make. I am glad to announce that my chrome plating firm has told me I will have the next large batch this next week. I can't seem to hurry the chroming process. I have been able to maintain a good supply of both of the heated pitot tubes I sell. They are the PH502-12CR and the AN5814. I also just received another large shippment of the very low drag GPS antennas. Builders interested in seeing all of my products may be interested in looking at my webpage. The address to this webpage is: www.gretzaero.com I think you will be interested in my products and the very competitive prices I have been able to maintain. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero e-mail address - info(at)gretzaero.com webpage address - www.gretzaero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
Date: Apr 08, 2000
That is one of my pet peeves. FAR interpretation by a local yokel. The FARs and the regs should be the same for the entire country; not subject to local interpretations. A FSDO is not autonomous but should be part of the overall umbrella. When a FSDO makes weird rulings such as the Nevada one that said the auto Gas STC was illegal makes them look bad, creates animosity, and makes the other FARs harder to justify. When a local FSDO makes the decision that they won't do field approvals, then FSDO shopping occurs. The FAA is suppose to promote General Aviation, but these kind of problems are counter-productive. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "glenn williams" <willig10(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2000 8:38 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter vs screen > > it is up to the fsdo or the dar to make that decision > > Glenn > > --- John Kitz wrote: > > > > > > glenn williams wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Michael good response but your kinda wrong still > > > > > > 1. the airframe and the engine are two different > > > entities. (hence an airframe log and an engine > > log) > > > > > > > Proceeding my FAA inspection, I met with an FAA > > inspector. He told me > > to have a separate log book for the prop, the > > engine, and the airframe. > > I complied wanting the upcoming inspection to go > > well and had them all > > prepared. When the inspection came, two FAA men > > showed up. One > > questioned why 3 log books and it came out that I > > had been directed to > > to that. The inspector said bull, you need only > > one. He proceeded to > > have me change it to one and stamped it. More time > > was spent on that > > than the inspection. > > > > John Kitz > > N721JK > > Ohio > > > > > > > > through > > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > Matronics! > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: dmcooke <dmcooke(at)nidlink.com>
Subject: To Paint or Not to Paint
Gray Linzel Wrote: I've kept my rv3 on the ramp, exposed to elements, with a prop and canopy cover for the last four years. I completely primed the interior with epoxy chromate but left the exterior bare aluminum. ======= I have a 1947 Beechcraft Bonanza. It has no corrosion problems. The plane was origionally bare aluminum with some trim paint. It passed through several owners and a couple of paint jobs before I purchased it in 1997. The owner previous to the one I purchased it from disassembled the plane and removed all of the paint in preparation for a new paint job. However, the project got put on hold and the unpainted, dissambeled plane was left in storage for a few years. The owner previous to me reassembeled the plane but did not paint it. When I bought it it was very grey. However, there was no corrosion. I have since polished it out nicely and plan to keep it that way. It takes me twelve to sixteen hours each year to keep it looking very nice and protect the metal with Rollite polish. I spent more time than this maintaining the finish on my previous plane's painted surfaces. Since I had to have it repainted I also spent a lot more money. I believe that over fifty years with no corrosion problems, with aproximately thirty of those in the buff, speaks well for unpainted aluminum. Therefore, other than some trim paint, I plan to keep my RV's exterior bare aluminum. Dave Cooke RV-4 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: The newly created Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
(aka The RV ...
Date: Apr 08, 2000
ya'll can be in the next state before we even get to the next county....... R. Burns RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524 long live the United States of Texas > I will make one observation: Virginia RV's must be faster than those Texas > types. I can be in the next county in twelve seconds in my 6A. In some > parts of the Lone Star state, travelling to the next county by RV could take > all afternoon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Matronics Fuel Scan LT
Date: Apr 08, 2000
I ordered the Fuel Scan from Matt on a Thursday evening. Received it the next Wednesday. Took two partial days to install. (Panel work used up one day.) The unit was exceptionally well packed, all wire, markers, books, etc, were present...all very nice. Upon initial application of power, the unit went through its start up routine, and did what it was supposed to do. I flew with it this morning, and it works like a charm! My only concern now is that the fuel burn I have calculated over the past 4.75 years is somewhat lower (about 1-gallon/hour) that what the Fuel Scan is telling me about cruise consumption...I suspect the Fuel Scan is the more accurate, but experience will tell me. Overall, I am pleased with the unit. RV6A Flying Salida,CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com>
Subject: RV-6A Sliding Canopy
Date: Apr 08, 2000
I have a question about installing the two strips of aluminum that sandwich the canopy to the frame. Does the lower strip (C-678) extent forward past the hole for the Latch and get riveted to the forward frame? I would think the upper strip (C-653) does. When you finally rivet these in place should I use RTV or some kind of sealant to keep out the rain? RV-6A Finishing Kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
Date: Apr 08, 2000
When this happens, challenge it! Most the time the info is an interpritation of the inspector handbook ( 8300 ) which is NOT regulatory in that it does not overrule a regulation, just explain it. Go to region if necessary. -----Original Message----- From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Date: Saturday, April 08, 2000 10:10 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter vs screen > >That is one of my pet peeves. FAR interpretation by a local yokel. The >FARs and the regs should be the same for the entire country; not subject to >local interpretations. A FSDO is not autonomous but should be part of the >overall umbrella. When a FSDO makes weird rulings such as the Nevada one >that said the auto Gas STC was illegal makes them look bad, creates >animosity, and makes the other FARs harder to justify. > >When a local FSDO makes the decision that they won't do field approvals, >then FSDO shopping occurs. The FAA is suppose to promote General Aviation, >but these kind of problems are counter-productive. > >Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "glenn williams" <willig10(at)yahoo.com> >To: >Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2000 8:38 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter vs screen > > >> >> it is up to the fsdo or the dar to make that decision >> >> Glenn >> >> --- John Kitz wrote: >> > >> > >> > glenn williams wrote: >> > >> > >> > > >> > > Michael good response but your kinda wrong still >> > > >> > > 1. the airframe and the engine are two different >> > > entities. (hence an airframe log and an engine >> > log) >> > > >> > >> > Proceeding my FAA inspection, I met with an FAA >> > inspector. He told me >> > to have a separate log book for the prop, the >> > engine, and the airframe. >> > I complied wanting the upcoming inspection to go >> > well and had them all >> > prepared. When the inspection came, two FAA men >> > showed up. One >> > questioned why 3 log books and it came out that I >> > had been directed to >> > to that. The inspector said bull, you need only >> > one. He proceeded to >> > have me change it to one and stamped it. More time >> > was spent on that >> > than the inspection. >> > >> > John Kitz >> > N721JK >> > Ohio >> > >> > >> > >> > through >> > >> > http://www.matronics.com/archives >> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists >> > >> > Matronics! >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: oil filter vs screen
Date: Apr 08, 2000
Our company went to Washington over the lack of conformity between FSDO's. You better know your regs, your fed may not. You can win the fight. -----Original Message----- From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com> Date: Saturday, April 08, 2000 8:05 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter vs screen > >Another example of our tax dollars at work. Even the FAA doesn't understand >all the bull they make us wade through. I smell a cutback coming. :-) > >Bill Taxpayer > > >> Proceeding my FAA inspection, I met with an FAA inspector. He told me >> to have a separate log book for the prop, the engine, and the airframe. >> I complied wanting the upcoming inspection to go well and had them all >> prepared. When the inspection came, two FAA men showed up. One >> questioned why 3 log books and it came out that I had been directed to >> to that. The inspector said bull, you need only one. He proceeded to >> have me change it to one and stamped it. More time was spent on that >> than the inspection. >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 08, 2000
"RV-List: Matronics Fuel Scan LT" (Apr 8, 10:48am)
Subject: Re: Matronics Fuel Scan LT
>-------------- > >I ordered the Fuel Scan from Matt on a Thursday evening. Received it the >next Wednesday. Took two partial days to install. (Panel work used up one >day.) > >The unit was exceptionally well packed, all wire, markers, books, etc, were >present...all very nice. >Upon initial application of power, the unit went through its start up >routine, and did what it was supposed to do. > >I flew with it this morning, and it works like a charm! My only concern now >is that the fuel burn I have calculated over the past 4.75 years is >somewhat lower (about 1-gallon/hour) that what the Fuel Scan is telling me >about cruise consumption...I suspect the Fuel Scan is the more accurate, but >experience will tell me. > >Overall, I am pleased with the unit. > >RV6A Flying >Salida,CO >-------------- John, Great to hear about your FuelScan! In most applications, the flow numbers you get from the FuelScan will be close, but still require that you go through the calibration procedure as described in the manual. There is an Configuration Option (number 10 on the LT model) that allows you to dynamically configure the calibration factor (k-factor) by burning a known amount of fuel, then comparing that amount to what the FuelScan reports. If there is a difference, you simply use the Configuration Option to "make it correct" that test time. This will automatically adjust the configured calibration factor on the FuelScan and store it in NVRAM. In practice, you might have to do this process a couple of times to "dial in" in the accuracy. All in all, its a very simple and straightforward procedure. Thanks for the report! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: hal kempthorne <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter screen
George McNutt wrote: > The cost of a filter adapter for the engine, plus the 40 oil filters > required for 50 hour oil changes almost costs as much as changing oil > every 25 hrs. On the plus side the aircraft will be about 5 pounds > lighter and have fresher oil for all those hours it spends sitting > around. Not a study but just my humble opinion. Screens suck! Based on my engine failure experience. (IO470K w screen) A filter catches more of the fines. As an engine begins to come from gather in flight, these fines become a grinding compound which chews up the engine even faster. They also plug up oil lines and lifters etc. In my engine, I reported occasional missing to the A&P. He tuned and checked got money and sent me on my way up the coast. At 8000 over the big flat Sacramento Valley it began running rough again. Looking at Castle Crags in the distant Siskyou mountains, I decided to stop in Red Bluff, twenty miles away. By I got there it was clanking! The engine had failed a rod bearing and the residue, gobs of it, clogged everything. I believe that a filter would have extended the time from beginning failure to no longer producing power. I also believe that the examination of the filter at the first complaint of roughness would have shown an increase in fine material. I also believe that the chunks that a screen gets are there only after the engine has begun to fail. A rod bearing can lose all but the shell while producing nothing big enough to be caught in a screen! hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
Subject: To Paint or Not to Paint
This has been an interesting thread. (Aren't they all?) I am a long ways from having to decide whether to paint or not, bot not painting has already crossed my mind. The workmanship on the partially-completed RV-8 project I recently acquired is beautiful. If I could come close to matching the cosmetic quality of the work that has already been done (and that's a huge if), I could see not painting. Polished out real nice, it would be beautiful. However, Brian Denk recently commented that the reflection off the wings of his not-yet-painted RV-8 is sometimes blinding when he flies. Does anybody else have any personal experience with this? Would you have to wear welders glasses when flying a polished aluminum bird in bright sunlight? George True ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Router
Date: Apr 08, 2000
Use a little wax on the bit to prevent it from "loading up." Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "jjbaker" <jjbaker(at)home.com> Sent: Friday, April 07, 2000 9:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Router > > Tom, > > Thats what I use...Craftman router with a 1/4 carbide bit. It is absolutely the > best aluminum cutter available. I got the idea from somebody who said they worked > for lockheed and did the same thing. > > Jason Baker > > Joe Czachorowski wrote: > > > > > Tom Barnes wrote: > > > > > Joe, I saw your post about using a router to cut the panel hole. I have a > > > couple Craftsman routers for woodworking. Are you using this type of tool? > > > Also, where did you get your bits and what size. > > > > > > This coule be a real time saver for me. > > > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > > > > Tom Barnes -6 finishing > > > > > > > Tom, > > As a matter of fact, I used a Craftsman router and a bit that trims > > the edges of formica (it has a bearing in it). I taped the template down to the > > panel (after practicing on scrap several times) and just "kissed" the edges of > > the template. The bit cuts the aluminum like a hot knife through butter. I > > bought the smallest bit that Sears had ( I'm sorry that I don't remember the > > name of this bit but I think it's a 1/4" radius and fits perfectly in the > > corners of the VM1000 template. The bit has a bearing on it) > > > > I taped the template down with 3M glossy packing tape. This made it easy to > > run the router over it. You will be pleasantly surprised on how the finished > > product turns out! Almost as good as a CNC. Practice on scraps first. > > > > Joe > > #80125 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: How to not forget your master on??
>Why couldn't you just make that red light an audible alert like your car's >headlights? Well, because: I have a partially open position for the canopy, and taxi with it that way. Unless the buzzer was switched, it would drive me and those around (behind) me bananas with it buzzing all the time. If you switched it, you may forget to turn the switch back on, as the problem here is not doing the right thing with switches in the first place. It is hard to ignore that bright red light even with a cursory glance at the panel at shut-down. I have not left the master on yet when departing the airplane. (Did it once when I was working on the airplane. Dummie.) Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: hal kempthorne <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A Sliding Canopy
Pete & Delee Bodie wrote: > When you finally rivet these in place should I use RTV or some kind of > sealant to keep out the rain? I didn't see anything in the docs about it but it sounds like a good idea. I suspect that positive cabin pressure might keep rain out. You would think that rain would be considered more since the kits from from the land where it can rain night and day for thirty days straight! I'm going to wait and do these kinds of things later, otherwise, I'll never get in the air! hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 08, 2000
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: To Paint or Not to Paint
George I have a friend with a beautiful polished RV4 (Oshgosh winner) He has to rotate his airplane with the sun so the reflectrion off the wings doesn't melt his canopy. When parked next to other airplanes he also has to be careful about not melting their conopies. He accidently nuked a Long -eze canopy at an Arizona fly-in last year. Yes, he left a nice message and offered to pay for all repairs. Solution: Painted airplane this year. Tom do not archiev George True wrote: > > This has been an interesting thread. (Aren't they all?) I am a long > ways from having to decide whether to paint or not, bot not painting has > already crossed my mind. The workmanship on the partially-completed > RV-8 project I recently acquired is beautiful. If I could come close to > matching the cosmetic quality of the work that has already been done > (and that's a huge if), I could see not painting. Polished out real > nice, it would be beautiful. > > However, Brian Denk recently commented that the reflection off the wings > of his not-yet-painted RV-8 is sometimes blinding when he flies. Does > anybody else have any personal experience with this? Would you have to > wear welders glasses when flying a polished aluminum bird in bright > sunlight? > > George True > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: To Paint or Not to Paint
Date: Apr 08, 2000
> > >However, Brian Denk recently commented that the reflection off the wings >of his not-yet-painted RV-8 is sometimes blinding when he flies. Does >anybody else have any personal experience with this? Would you have to >wear welders glasses when flying a polished aluminum bird in bright >sunlight? > This was one of the big factors causing me to hurry and paint my airplane. I found it just about unbearable at times. The worst was when you happened to need to fly a heading that kept the sun reflecting in your eyes for a long period of time. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: Seattle PPG Finishes dealer info needed
Date: Apr 08, 2000
Anyone know a good stocking PPG automotive paint dealer in Seattle? I need to find a stocking source for PPG Harlequin, quick! Email me OFF LIST please! Aloha, Russ russ(at)maui.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets
Warren's pitot tube mounting brackets are first rate, and I found him to be a great person with whom to do business. One pitot tube lesson learned from my flying RV-6A: - The heated pitot-static tube (AN5814-1) installed on my plane had significant static pressure errors. The static pressure was too high at low speeds, and too low at high speeds. Airspeed indicator errors were around 15 knots at stall, and around 12 knots at Vne. Accompanying the airspeed error is significant (>100' at high speeds) altitude error. See Kevin Horton's analysis and superb spreadsheet for all the gory details. - I abandoned the static ports on the AN5814-1, and reverted to Van's pop rivet static ports. Low speed errors essentially disappeared, and high speed errors were reduced by about half (170KIAS = 164KCAS, for example). - I still have an alternate static port inside the cockpit, which induces fewer errors than did the static port on the AN5814-1. - Summary: I recommend Warren's mount, but I would advise against the pitot tube with integral static ports because of the large errors I saw. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: To Paint or Not to Paint
Date: Apr 08, 2000
Dave, Although the testemony of your beechcraft's lack of corrosion is certainly impressive, the real question is what weather environment it did this in. No corrosion, if in Arizona, is not much to put your faith in....as that is where most of us go when looking for older corrosion free Porsche's. HOWEVER, if you're talking about no corrosion in an environment like...oh, say FLORIDA...you are talking about a completely different set of variables. Personallyl I fall in the middle on this corrosion issue. I am not going to spend 4 years building my RV-4 by sweating over every piece with a 12 step corrosion prevention process and dipping each rivet in primer before I insert it, nor am I going to leave the aluminum completely to the weather and salt air of Florida. I sure wish I could though.....my empennage would have been done in less than 3 weeks instead of 4. To that end, I am very interested in what area of the country your bonanza survived all those years of naked flying. I am just dying for a reason to toss that primer back in the box. :-) Bill -4 waiting on wings > > I have a 1947 Beechcraft Bonanza. It has no corrosion problems. The > plane was origionally bare aluminum with some trim paint. It passed > through several owners and a couple of paint jobs before I purchased it > in 1997. The owner previous to the one I purchased it from disassembled > the plane and removed all of the paint in preparation for a new paint > job. However, the project got put on hold and the unpainted, dissambeled > plane was left in storage for a few years. The owner previous to me > reassembeled the plane but did not paint it. When I bought it it was > very grey. However, there was no corrosion. I have since polished it out > nicely and plan to keep it that way. It takes me twelve to sixteen hours > each year to keep it looking very nice and protect the metal with > Rollite polish. I spent more time than this maintaining the finish on my > previous plane's painted surfaces. Since I had to have it repainted I > also spent a lot more money. I believe that over fifty years with no > corrosion problems, with aproximately thirty of those in the buff, > speaks well for unpainted aluminum. Therefore, other than some trim > paint, I plan to keep my RV's exterior bare aluminum. > > Dave Cooke > RV-4 wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2000
From: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: WD-605 & R-405
Sorry listers first time I sent this HTMLwas not disabled, hope that this works OK now. Folks WD-605 Elevator Horn No luck in the archive with this one. I am finishing off the HS and elevators, and it appears to me that with the the rod ends set to put the hinge line 13/26 inch from the spar the hinge bolt hole (1/4 dia) will be extremly close to the fillet weld attaching the torque tube to the WD-605 end plate. I suspect that the torque tube has been cut in half and then welded to the spar attachment finger rather than being cut so that the finger plate underside is inline with the tube C/L. Thus reducing an already tight clearance to an unacceptable one. My WD-605 is of the prewelded variety. Has anybody encountered this problem ?? R-405 Bolt Holes I found some archive material on this subject but didnt answer my question which is; The location of the 3/16 dia holes for the rudder cables is IMHO too close to both adjacent edges of the R-405. I propose moving the hole inbd and aft to give at least 2D (ie 3/8 dia) edge distance. The only possible problem I can see with this is that the rudder travel may result in the cable fouling the vertical leg of the R-405. Any comments? IMHO it is very poor practise to use less than 2D edge distance for a primary flight control attachment fastener. I suspect that the draftsman provided 2D for the 1/8 dia holes but forgot that the other 2 were 3/16 dia, an easy enuff mistake to make. Thanks from the homer of the America's cup...... Graham Murphy Blenheim Nerw Zealand RV-6A empennage progresing sloooooooooooooooowlwy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2000
From: dmcooke <dmcooke(at)nidlink.com>
Subject: To Paint or Not To Paint
Bill Shook wrote: "I am just dying for a reason to toss that primer back in the box. :-)" = = = = = = = Bill, From what I could find out by inspecting over fifty years of log books, I may not have the reason you seek. If you live in Florida or some other corrosive environment a painted surface may provide better protection than an annual polish job. However, the results of my investigation are not completely conclusive. The Bonanza spent it's first ten years in Kansas and the second ten years in Arizona. It then spent around twenty years in the SanFrancisco bay area. For approximately 18 years of this time it was sporting a paint job. As dashing as this clothing may have been, it was removed after the plane moved to North Idaho where it has been in the buff for around ten years. Evidently, the folks in the bay area felt that paint was a good idea. However, they did not prime or paint the interior of the fuselage. There is no evidence of primer anywhere except on some castings and brackets which appear to have been painted during the manufacturing process. The inside of the skin does not show any corrosion. Other than a few scratches, probably due to over fifty annual inspections, the skin interior looks almost new. On my -4, I am spraying primer on the areas where things are riveted together like the rib and skin interfaces and reinforcement plates. I completely primed all of the parts on the main spar. However, I am not planning to paint the exterior other than some trim. I was amazed to see the references to reflection damage mentioned in the list. The reflection from the Bonanza skin is warm if you stand by it in the summer sun. However, I have never found it to be hot enough to melt anything. The Bonanza has sun visors to keep reflections from being too much of a problem. Perhaps I will find it to be a different story in the -4 bubble canopy. We shall see. Best Regards, Dave RV-4 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: F604 caps
Date: Apr 09, 2000
Is there any reason to delay riveting the U shaped caps on the left and right 604 bulkhead pieces? I have large wire/etc. pass throughs cut into the 604 pieces just below the main longerons, so fore/aft access will not be a problem. I have fit (and removed) all the aluminum fuel lines, and want to paint the interior now. I just want to avoid a gotcha. Thanks, Alex Peterson 6A Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eugene Lamos" <genelamos(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-3A For Sale
Date: Apr 09, 2000
I have an RV-3A for sale. It has 185 hours total time and 275 hours since new on a new O-320 (160hp) with a new (30 hours) Sensenich metal prop. The entire inside of the airplane has recently been re-done with many improvements, including Vision Micro Systems EPI-800 instruments and Garmin GPS 95XL built into new panel. For more information, please Email me directly at genelamos(at)worldnet.att.net or phone (603) 879-9833. Gene Lamos ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets
Date: Apr 09, 2000
Tim, RE: Summary: I recommend Warren's mount, but I would advise against the pitot tube with integral static ports because of the large errors I saw. Is you tube mounted as Warren describes in his instructions and what bay in relation to the bellcrank access plate did you mount it in? Russ russ(at)maui.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz)
Date: Apr 09, 2000
Subject: Navaid insall
Rick Jory and Randy Lervold, Did you want a copy of the Navad installation I dd on my 8? If so I have the drawings done and will need your snail mail address. Joe Waltz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A Sliding Canopy
Date: Apr 09, 2000
Pete, Yes, I had both start at the front & drilled a large hole with a unibit for the latch shaft through both strips. I used proseal in the rivet holes. Just RTV would work as well. Of course, the strips were painted first before riveting & the outside repainted to cover the rivets. Rick Caldwell -6 Slider w/ O-320 CS 39 hrs. & seriously addicted to this craft Melbourne, FL >From: "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Sliding Canopy >Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 10:28:07 -0700 > > >I have a question about installing the two strips of aluminum that sandwich >the canopy to the frame. >Does the lower strip (C-678) extent forward past the hole for the Latch and >get riveted to the forward frame? >I would think the upper strip (C-653) does. >When you finally rivet these in place should I use RTV or some kind of >sealant to keep out the rain? > >RV-6A Finishing Kit. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2000
Subject: Larry Vetterman
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
Does anyone know how to contact Larry Vetterman? I called his business number and some guy answered that said he didn't live there anymore, he was tired of receiving his calls and hung up. Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (N401TC reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Larry Vetterman
Date: Apr 09, 2000
> > Does anyone know how to contact Larry Vetterman? > I called his business number and some guy answered that said he didn't > live there > anymore, he was tired of receiving his calls and hung up. > Tony Castellano Tony: Larry lives in Hot Springs, SD. His number is 605-745-5932 Doug Weiler MN Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets
On 9 Apr 00, at 8:51, Russ Werner wrote: > Is you tube mounted as Warren describes in his instructions and what bay > in relation to the bellcrank access plate did you mount it in? As I recall, I installed it as described in Warren's plans. Photo is at www.geocities.com/timrv6a/pitot_tube.jpg . I moved the tie down ring 1 bay outboard to avoid having ropes damage the pitot tube. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Larry Vetterman
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
Thank you for the information, Regards, Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (N401TC reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116)
Date: Apr 09, 2000
Subject: rear jack point/RV6
Listers-- RV-6 owners: can the rear attachment bolt, inside about a 1" cutout on the bottom of the airframe, for the tailwheel spring to fuselage attachment be used as a jack point to lift the airplane's tail? Seems I would have thought about it before now, but I need to replace my tailwheel, it's getting a bit small. Thanks. Boyd RV S6 Venice, FL 170 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: rear jack point/RV6
Date: Apr 10, 2000
> >Listers-- > >RV-6 owners: can the rear attachment bolt, inside about a 1" cutout on >the bottom of the airframe, for the tailwheel spring to fuselage >attachment be used as a jack point to lift the airplane's tail? Seems I >would have thought about it before now, but I need to replace my >tailwheel, it's getting a bit small. > >Thanks. > >Boyd >RV S6 >Venice, FL >170 hrs. I merely lifted up the tailwheel using the spring itself and pulled off one wheel and installed the new one. If you physically can't lift that approx 60 pounds using one hand then just put a block of wood under the spring after using both hands to lift the tail wheel. I suppose you could use the bolt area to lift the tailwheel but doubt you need to do that. John Ammeter 1975 Jensen Healey RV-6 (sold 4/98) EAA Technical Counselor NRA Life Member ICQ#48819374 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2000
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: rear jack point/RV6
"InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116" wrote: > > > Listers-- > > RV-6 owners: can the rear attachment bolt, inside about a 1" cutout on > the bottom of the airframe, for the tailwheel spring to fuselage > attachment be used as a jack point to lift the airplane's tail? Seems I > would have thought about it before now, but I need to replace my > tailwheel, it's getting a bit small. > > Thanks. > > Boyd > RV S6 > Venice, FL > 170 hrs. > Boyd The bottom rear fuselage skin is extra thick in that section, just lift the tail and set it on a saw horse a bucket etc. Put a lot of padding under the fuselage where it well be setting on your stand. 170 hours seems a little soon to have to be replacing your tailwheel. Jerry Springer RV-6 jsflyrv(at)teleport.com|Hillsboro,OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: Garage size
Date: Dec 09, 2000
I've searched the archives but no luck so far. I'm buying a house right now (poor RV project on hold for awhile) and would like to know how big the fuselage is in the jig (assuming this is the largest setup I will have). How long is it? I've heard of guys (and gals) building in single car garages. How much room do you have left to walk around? What about the drill press, band saw, etc? Thankx Steve Hurlbut shurlbut(at)island.net Future RV-6A builder CF-SND Comox, BC, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TOMPOWERSRV6(at)cs.com
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Garage size
The distance between the firewall and just fwd. of the rudder is 15 feet. A garage of 20 feet long would work. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets
On 9 Apr 00, at 8:51, Russ Werner wrote: > Is you tube mounted as Warren describes in his instructions and what bay > in relation to the bellcrank access plate did you mount it in? As I recall, I installed it as described in Warren's plans. Photo is at http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/pitot_tube.jpg . I moved the tie down ring 1 bay outboard to avoid having ropes damage the pitot tube. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2000
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: CCD inspection tool
I just bought a $50 miniature CCD TV camera (monochrome) from MCM electronics. It consists of a circuit board about twice the size of a postage stamp with a tiny adjustable lense mounted on it. The great thing is that the lense can be focused down to a distance of about one inch, so it's a magnifier on the end of a wire. With a 12v AC adapter from radio shack, 24ft of cable, and a few connectors I was ready to go. You plug the output into the "video in" jack on any TV or VCR. I mounted a bright LED on the camera to serve as a built-in light source - it doesn't need much light. Now I can get a close up, magnified view of anything I can reach with my hand or poke a stick into. I was rivetting the wing skins on today and used the camera to inspect the shop heads. It was terrific. There is no way I could have seen them otherwise. I imagine there will be many other uses as I start working on other parts of the project. I've seen tiny TV cameras before, but never this cheap. I highly recommend it to those of you who are into electronic doodads. If you're interested, see mcmElectronics.com. They have several models including one color camera. (I recommend against the versions with a pin hole lense. ) Email me if you want any details. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: looking for Gary O'neal, 4 builder
Does anyone know Gary, he's a retried Warrant and I think he's located near Lakeland, FL. Carey Mills ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: How to not forget your master on??
Date: Apr 10, 2000
I have an IFR RV6A with a vacuum pump for my attitude and DG. I have a microswitch that senses the vacuum pressure in the line from the pump. The LED illuminates when the vacuum dips below 3.8". This is a pretty reliable master on switch and also, it will hopefully help me to diagnose vacuum pump problems in the air. I got the switch from Precise Flight, Inc. inside my Standby Vacuum Kit. Gary Fesenbek RV6A Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Garage size
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Steve, The fuselage jig is about 14'6", but you will need room on each side. I am building in a 1.5 car garage and it can be tight. Most garages are about 20' deep or better I woould go for as big a space as you can. I am anticipating some tigh going when it comes time to mount engine and tail surfaces. I have my drill press, band saw and belt sander on movable tables. You will no doubt change your layout several times. Hope this helps. ---------- >From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> >To: >Subject: RV-List: Garage size >Date: Sun, Dec 10, 2000, 12:56 AM > > > I've searched the archives but no luck so far. > > I'm buying a house right now (poor RV project on hold for awhile) and would > like to know how big the fuselage is in the jig (assuming this is the > largest setup I will have). How long is it? I've heard of guys (and gals) > building in single car garages. How much room do you have left to walk > around? What about the drill press, band saw, etc? > > Thankx > Steve Hurlbut > shurlbut(at)island.net > Future RV-6A builder > CF-SND > Comox, BC, Canada > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A Sliding Canopy
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Pete, Can't comment on the parts question. Been a couple of years since I built my slider. I followed the plans so what ever they say is what I did. I did buy some windshield sealant at the local auto parts store. When I riveted the canopy to the frame, I laid in a small bead of sealant. I wiped away any sealant that oozed out. If you don't do this, rain and/or condensation might seep into your cockpit as it sits on the ground. Some do this, some don't. I think the Justice instructions also suggest it. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 "At the airport - final details" ----- Original Message ----- From: Pete & Delee Bodie <pjbodie(at)home.com> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2000 12:28 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Sliding Canopy > > I have a question about installing the two strips of aluminum that sandwich > the canopy to the frame. > Does the lower strip (C-678) extent forward past the hole for the Latch and > get riveted to the forward frame? > I would think the upper strip (C-653) does. > When you finally rivet these in place should I use RTV or some kind of > sealant to keep out the rain? > > RV-6A Finishing Kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Garage size
Don't forget if the garage has other use like storage for lawnmower, lawn tools,hoses, bicycles,paint cans, ladders,recycle bins,lawn furtulizer bags, boots, shelving, yada-yada-yada....the point being other stuff migrates there and gets stored there for ever.... I would love to have one of those work spaces I see where there is only a aircraft widget being worked on and a empty bench lots of light and space........... and no other junk around and heated and air conditioned & carpeted & music &....I dreaming shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com on 04/10/2000 08:34:52 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Garage size Steve, The fuselage jig is about 14'6", but you will need room on each side. I am building in a 1.5 car garage and it can be tight. Most garages are about 20' deep or better I woould go for as big a space as you can. I am anticipating some tigh going when it comes time to mount engine and tail surfaces. I have my drill press, band saw and belt sander on movable tables. You will no doubt change your layout several times. Hope this helps. ---------- >From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> >To: >Subject: RV-List: Garage size >Date: Sun, Dec 10, 2000, 12:56 AM > > > I've searched the archives but no luck so far. > > I'm buying a house right now (poor RV project on hold for awhile) and would > like to know how big the fuselage is in the jig (assuming this is the > largest setup I will have). How long is it? I've heard of guys (and gals) > building in single car garages. How much room do you have left to walk > around? What about the drill press, band saw, etc? > > Thankx > Steve Hurlbut > shurlbut(at)island.net > Future RV-6A builder > CF-SND > Comox, BC, Canada > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: The RG battery has come to WalMart . . .
As I was passing by the automotive battery rack in my local WalMart yesterday, a particular product caught my eye . . . it was a fairly heafty battery with the grain-elevator like collection of cylindrical cell housings. I picked up a flyer on what is called the EverStart Ultra, a totally sealed, jelly-roll style construction RG battery. This is a big beast. I would guess it to be between 25 and 35 a.h. in capacity. Can't recommend this battery for many airplane applications. The noteworthy points of this find are (1) RG technology has found it's way into the most rudimentary of consumer product streams and (2) the thing sells for $75. The next thing to watch for is a line of smaller batteries with the same technology for use in garden equipment and perhaps even motorcycles. Of course we don't know who makes this particular battery for WalMart . . . it has the look and feel of an Optima but given the age of the original patents by Gates Energy Products on the Cyclon series jelly-roll cells, this battery could be made by anybody. Only a test in the marketplace will tell us if this battery is worth the lead and plastic that holds it together. It's not here yet but I believe it's a matter of time before you can buy a better airplane battery from your local WalMart than you can buy from any FBO . . . Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( The only time you don't fail is the last ) ( time you try something, and it works. ) ( One fails forward toward success. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd_mchenry(at)agilent.com>
Subject: Tip-up Canopy
Date: Apr 10, 2000
The other day I noticed the tip-up canopy arrangement used on the Lancair 320. The Lancair has a parallel-linkage arrangement, so that the canopy opens forward, but remains essentially level. I have a couple of questions about this arrangement. 1. How hard would it be to modify the RV-6 canopy to work this way? I'm thinking of a couple of possible problems: the attachment of the parallel links to the side sills of the cockpit (i.e. are the sills strong enough and rigid enough; how much reinforcement would be required); and would the way the canopy frame mates to the fuselage have to be modified? In principle, the parallel link arrangement could be designed such that the canopy approaches the "seat" following nearly the same path as it does with the standard tip-up arrangement. 2. Does the Lancair arrangement allow taxiing with the canopy open? It looks like it might. 3. How does the Lancair canopy latch? Does it require a latch at the front? Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC tedd(at)vansairforce.org http://www.vansairforce.org ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tip-up Canopy
Tedd, The arrangement you saw on the -320 was the original design. They've since had an option to hinge forward like the RV. The factory -360 that I flew was like the RV. The early Lancairs used 'suitcase latches' (I think 4) to hold the canopy down. Pretty primitive, and I don't know how a rescuer could open it from the outside... The canopy rails are pretty strong on the Lancair at that point. I believe its a glass encapsulated hardwood longeron, but you may want to check with a builder about this. I'm going on memory from about 16 months ago. I suspect that most newer -320/-360 are built with the tip forward (i.e. newer) option. Their web site might have a bit more info on it. Chris Sheehan Tedd McHenry wrote: > > > The other day I noticed the tip-up canopy arrangement used on the Lancair > 320. The Lancair has a parallel-linkage arrangement, so that the canopy > opens forward, but remains essentially level. I have a couple of questions > about this arrangement. > > 1. How hard would it be to modify the RV-6 canopy to work this way? I'm > thinking of a couple of possible problems: the attachment of the parallel > links to the side sills of the cockpit (i.e. are the sills strong enough and > rigid enough; how much reinforcement would be required); and would the way > the canopy frame mates to the fuselage have to be modified? In principle, > the parallel link arrangement could be designed such that the canopy > approaches the "seat" following nearly the same path as it does with the > standard tip-up arrangement. > > 2. Does the Lancair arrangement allow taxiing with the canopy open? It > looks like it might. > > 3. How does the Lancair canopy latch? Does it require a latch at the > front? > > Tedd McHenry > Surrey, BC > tedd(at)vansairforce.org > http://www.vansairforce.org > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: RV-8 Question
Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? Particularly anyone with a quick build 8. I just tried to install mine this weekend and it's 1/2 inch too small. I could pull it into place with C-clamps but it would put those AN3 bolts that hold it in place under a great deal of stress. Any help would be greatly appreciated. - Jim Andrews RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse N89JA (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Rod Kimmell <rkimmell(at)teleport.com>
Subject: For Sale - RV6 Wing and Empennage
For Sale: Partially complete RV-6 wing and empennage with the Phlogiston spar and fast build wing option. I have fallen in love with the RV-8 and am switching gears to a RV8 quickbuild kit. Contact Rod Kimmell Gaston, Oregon 503 985-7808 rkimmell(at)teleport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Question
Our WD-814 was also 1/2 to small... I use a hydraulic press and expanded weldment 2 inches from normal... however it when it sprung back I still had a 1/4 inch gap... I wasn't comfortable expanding more so I gave up... I installed weldment with 1/4 gap by first pulling one side then bolting it down then stretching the other side and clamping in place for drilling... Larry N248PL QB-RV8 916-332-0704 Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com > > Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to > their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? Particularly > anyone with a quick build 8. I just tried to install mine this weekend and it's > 1/2 inch too small. I could pull it into place with C-clamps but it would put > those AN3 bolts that hold it in place under a great deal of stress. > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > - Jim Andrews > RV-8AQ Fuse and more fuse > N89JA (reserved) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Question
Jim-- I had talks with others on the list, as well as with Ken Krueger at Van's about this same problem. My weldment was about 1/2" too narrow for my fuse, and I was instructed by all to "just bend it." Ken actually told me to sit on the floor, put my foot on one side, and pull until it fits! As ridiculous as it sounds, it worked. I guess I'm a real wimp, 'cause I had to repeat it several times. Eventually, it fit OK. It's not the big deal that I was assuming it would be. --Don McNamara N8RV Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com > > Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to > their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Question
Don... How far did you spread weldment without using a press??? Did you heat the metal first??? Larry Don McNamara wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: Don McNamara > > Jim-- > > I had talks with others on the list, as well as with Ken Krueger at Van's about this > same problem. My weldment was about 1/2" too narrow for my fuse, and I was > instructed by all to "just bend it." Ken actually told me to sit on the floor, put > my foot on one side, and pull until it fits! As ridiculous as it sounds, it > worked. I guess I'm a real wimp, 'cause I had to repeat it several times. > Eventually, it fit OK. It's not the big deal that I was assuming it would be. > > --Don McNamara > N8RV > > Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote: > > > --> RV8-List message posted by: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com > > > > Has anyone else had any problems fitting the WD-814 wind screen weldment to > > their fuselage? If so, how did you over come this obstacle? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Question
Well, I can't tell you in psi...I did just what I was told to do--sat on the floor (and got aluminum shavings in my butt!), put on some gloves and pulled as hard as I could. Stopped, measured the space between the sides (I knew what the measurement was before I started and what my target measurement was), and found that it moved about half as much as I needed. Sat down again, (more aluminum shavings) grunted and pulled again, then measured. Sure enough, it had moved a wee bit more. The third attempt moved it as much as I needed. I found that making it wider only made it fit worse--it changed the other angles involved in the weldment, and how it fit against the longerons. I hate to think how much damage I might have done to the weldment or myself if I had tried to heat it and then bend it! As for a press... Hope that helps, Larry. --Don N8RV Larry -xlax- Lovisone wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: Larry -xlax- Lovisone > > Don... > How far did you spread weldment without using a press??? > Did you heat the metal first??? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Question
What about us lucky ones that have powder coated parts? We're gonna ruin em... Hey Don, I keep hearing flying an RV is better than sex, but I suggest you wear pants while building! (you wont get alum in your bum) -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don McNamara Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 3:04 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Question Well, I can't tell you in psi...I did just what I was told to do--sat on the floor (and got aluminum shavings in my butt!), put on some gloves and pulled as hard as I could. Stopped, measured the space between the sides (I knew what the measurement was before I started and what my target measurement was), and found that it moved about half as much as I needed. Sat down again, (more aluminum shavings) grunted and pulled again, then measured. Sure enough, it had moved a wee bit more. The third attempt moved it as much as I needed. I found that making it wider only made it fit worse--it changed the other angles involved in the weldment, and how it fit against the longerons. I hate to think how much damage I might have done to the weldment or myself if I had tried to heat it and then bend it! As for a press... Hope that helps, Larry. --Don N8RV Larry -xlax- Lovisone wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: Larry -xlax- Lovisone > > Don... > How far did you spread weldment without using a press??? > Did you heat the metal first??? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188sm(at)cs.com
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-8 Question
I used a power pack to reform it. Had to use shims under it also. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Re: F604 caps
Alex Peterson wrote: >...any reason to delay riveting the U shaped caps on the left and > right 604 bulkhead pieces? Be sure you have fitted the fwd seat pans F639/F640 and the main gear weldments and that the F604E clear these items. I refitted the weldments the other day and nocided they did not to seem to fit just right. Then I noticed that the lower corner of F604E was between the weldment and the spar. Fortunately, the F604Es were in with clecos, so I took them out and trimmed them. Don't rivet anything until absolutely nesessary. There are exceptions! Richard Reynolds, RV-6A, going to cut the canopy!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
"rv-list(at)matronics.com" , Doug Weiler
Subject: [Fwd: ARTHUR GLASER/BENEDICT FOUNDATION]
TO THE PEOPLE ON THE LIST WHO EXPRESSED AN INTEREST IN DONATIONS TO A BENEDICT FOUNDATION AVIATION FUND: I HAVE JUST GOTTEN THIS RESPONSE FROM VANS. WHEN I GET MORE INFORMATION, I WILL LET THE LIST KNOW. THIS WILL BE AFTER SUN AND FUN. ART GLASER Sandy wrote: > Dear Mr. Glaser, > > I discussed your idea of the scholarship in the name of Wm.and Jeremy > Benedict with Van. He asked me to tell you there are programs set-up in > the Portland area for the aviation field. Van would like to talk with > you about becoming involved in one of these programs. At this time, he > is at Sun-n-Fun in Florida. > > I will give Van a copy of this memo along with your telephone/FAX number > next week when he returns to the office. > > Thank you for your support. > > Sandy > Bookkeeper @ Van's Aircraft, Inc. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-LIST rv4 WHEEL BEARING TIGHT
Listers: Upon finally getting this project on it's own tires I stumbled upon yet another project. I did research the archives and found an old string on tight wheel bearings. As very little has come up lately I want to know if this is still a problem. I have measured the discrepancy and it is within the normal tolerance of the two parts. The axel is 1.25 +- .005 and the inside diameter of the bearing is 1.2500 to 1.245. As you can see, due to the different manufacturers and that the two parts are not selected for size from a larger inventory, we are stuck with what is sent. Just want to see if I should contact either Van's or the wheel manufacturer. Dave Aronson RV4 N504RV Engine ready to mount. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
Subject: CherryMax rivets
Can anyone educate me about CherryMax rivets? Are they the same thing as Cherry rivets? I understand they are essentially a solid pop-rivet, to be used somewhere that you absolutely can't get a bucking bar, and they are generally considered to be structural strength rivets as long as you use the right size. What I would like to know is what sizes and types might be needed in building an RV? The reason I ask is that a retired A&P friend of mine gave me several zip-loc baggies containing about 3 or 4 different sizes of Cherry Max rivets. He also has other sizes if I need them. He knows they're expensive, and he also knows I may need a few of them here and there as time goes on. First of all, how can I tell what size and type the ones he gave me are? Is there a spec sheet available somewhere that tells what size Cherry rivet to use in place of any given solid rivet? Secondly, a local pawn shop has a few bags of Cherry rivets, they don't say CherryMax, just Cherry. Would these be the right ones or not? If they are the right type and the right size, they would be a real bargain (a bag of 100 for $10.00). I checked the archives, but there were only about 15 references, none of them very helpful. George True ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: RV-LIST rv4 WHEEL BEARING TIGHT
Dave, I did this on my RV-4 about 6 months ago and found the same thing. The advice I got from the list and from Vans was to sand/polish the axle down with emery cloth until the wheel just slips on. Mike Wills RV4 firewall forward stuff (Mazda 13B) willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil > >Listers: > >Upon finally getting this project on it's own tires I stumbled upon yet >another >project. I did research the archives and found an old string on tight wheel >bearings. As very little has come up lately I want to know if this is still a >problem. I have measured the discrepancy and it is within the normal >tolerance >of the two parts. The axel is 1.25 +- .005 and the inside diameter of the >bearing is 1.2500 to 1.245. As you can see, due to the different >manufacturers >and that the two parts are not selected for size from a larger inventory, >we are >stuck with what is sent. Just want to see if I should contact either Van's or >the wheel manufacturer. > >Dave Aronson >RV4 N504RV >Engine ready to mount. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Ron Terhaar <rterhaar(at)8j.net>
Subject: audio panel+CD=?
Help wanted. I am trying to get a Garmin GMA340 audio panel to work with an automotive style AM/FM CD player. The results thus far are not satisfactory. The specific unit is a Rockford Fosgate RFX-8115 but I don't think that would be anything different than any other unit made for autos. I have taken into account the different grounding of the speaker system by installing a Metra Linkworks LW-FL-FGA300 Floating Ground Adapter that was recommended by a local electronic shop guy. He also had me switch from the RCA output to the regular speaker output wires. The problem is: I can't get much volume or sound quality from the CD or AM/FM radio. If I turn the volume all the way up on the CD, I can hear it at about what I would expect at a very low setting. Of course at full volume I get distortion. I e-mailed Garmin technical support and got a message back. The tech said, "The GMA340 has a 500 Ohm input for the CD and I suspect the CD Player you have is a 4 Ohm output which is much higher output power than what the GMA340 can handle. You might be lucky though because you are using the Floating Ground Adapter, pure power may not have made it to the GMA340. I am not familiar with the CD player you are using so I don't know if that adapter is required or not. The input on the GMA 340 was designed to work with a "Walkman" style radio/CD/Tape player output. You will have to make up some sort of impedence matching network in order to use that CD Player with the GMA340." That's helpful information but I haven't a clue how to do that. I am pretty green at electronics though most everything else I have done on my panel works well now. So I'm learning. I have searched the archives and know that this general topic has come up before, but I could not find anything that solves my problem exactly. I am hoping that one of the more electronic savey readers of this list will be able to make sense of this and can help me get this working properly. Feel free to respond to me directly off list or on list. Ron Terhaar RV6A-Rocket Tropicana Won One For Romeo Tango 90% done, 90% to go ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: CherryMax rivets
Date: Apr 10, 2000
George, I don't know all your answers but may be of some help. Cherry is a brand of blind rivet. CherryMax is one "model" of blind rivet Cherry makes that is used in structural applications. I just finished my RV-6 and did not need to use any Cherrymax rivets. The need for blind rivets has been determined for certain applications by Van's engineers and the type of blind rivet necessary is given in the kit & called out on the plans. When I worked as an A&P, I used CherryMax rivets & I also thought I would need them for the RV. That was not the case. Rick Caldwell RV-6 N136RC 39 hrs Melbourne, FL >From: George True <true(at)uswest.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: RV-List: CherryMax rivets >Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 17:20:53 -0700 > > >Can anyone educate me about CherryMax rivets? Are they the same thing >as Cherry rivets? I understand they are essentially a solid pop-rivet, >to be used somewhere that you absolutely can't get a bucking bar, and >they are generally considered to be structural strength rivets as long >as you use the right size. > >What I would like to know is what sizes and types might be needed in >building an RV? The reason I ask is that a retired A&P friend of mine >gave me several zip-loc baggies containing about 3 or 4 different sizes >of Cherry Max rivets. He also has other sizes if I need them. He knows >they're expensive, and he also knows I may need a few of them here and >there as time goes on. > >First of all, how can I tell what size and type the ones he gave me >are? Is there a spec sheet available somewhere that tells what size >Cherry rivet to use in place of any given solid rivet? > >Secondly, a local pawn shop has a few bags of Cherry rivets, they don't >say CherryMax, just Cherry. Would these be the right ones or not? If >they are the right type and the right size, they would be a real bargain >(a bag of 100 for $10.00). > >I checked the archives, but there were only about 15 references, none of >them very helpful. > >George True > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: Larry Vetterman
Date: Apr 10, 2000
I have his # at work, if you do not get it, message me off list. -----Original Message----- From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> Date: Sunday, April 09, 2000 5:15 PM Subject: RV-List: Larry Vetterman > >Does anyone know how to contact Larry Vetterman? >I called his business number and some guy answered that said he didn't >live there >anymore, he was tired of receiving his calls and hung up. >Tony Castellano >tcastella(at)juno.com >Hopewell Junction, NY >RV-6 (N401TC reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Larry Vetterman
Cut and pasted directly from the Yeller Pages http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm HIGH COUNTRY EXHAUST SYSTEMS (LARRY VETTERMAN) 605-745-5932 RV EXHAUST SYSTEMS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: CherryMax rivets
Date: Apr 10, 2000
> Can anyone educate me about CherryMax rivets? Are they the same thing > as Cherry rivets? I understand they are essentially a solid pop-rivet, > to be used somewhere that you absolutely can't get a bucking bar, and > they are generally considered to be structural strength rivets as long > as you use the right size. > > What I would like to know is what sizes and types might be needed in > building an RV? The reason I ask is that a retired A&P friend of mine > gave me several zip-loc baggies containing about 3 or 4 different sizes > of Cherry Max rivets. He also has other sizes if I need them. He knows > they're expensive, and he also knows I may need a few of them here and > there as time goes on. > > First of all, how can I tell what size and type the ones he gave me > are? Is there a spec sheet available somewhere that tells what size > Cherry rivet to use in place of any given solid rivet? > > Secondly, a local pawn shop has a few bags of Cherry rivets, they don't > say CherryMax, just Cherry. Would these be the right ones or not? If > they are the right type and the right size, they would be a real bargain > (a bag of 100 for $10.00). Geo: It has been my understanding that a CherryMax rivet is an acceptable replacement for a AN rivet is most structural applications. I have used them as a last resort in my RV-4 when bucking was extremely difficult or I had really screwed up a normal AN rivet. The actually come in two sizes: CR3212 (countersunk) and CR3213 (universal) are the same diameter as a -4 AN rivet. The CR3242 (countersunk) and CR 3243 (universal) are 1/16" diameter greater (good replacement for a really messed up -4 hole). They are difficult to pull with a normal pop rivet tool, but can be done (a pneumatic puller is great if you can find one to borrow. On the RV-4, I used CherryMax rivets to attach the F-417 plate to the F-405 and F-406 bulkheads. I do not think the other Cherry rivets are structural at all. A good sourse for CherryMax rivets a a very reasonable cost is Rich Industries at 800-240-2777 in AZ. Doug Weiler MN Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: RV-LIST rv4 WHEEL BEARING TIGHT
Date: Apr 10, 2000
> Upon finally getting this project on it's own tires I stumbled upon yet another > project. I did research the archives and found an old string on tight wheel > bearings. As very little has come up lately I want to know if this is still a > problem. I have measured the discrepancy and it is within the normal tolerance > of the two parts. The axel is 1.25 +- .005 and the inside diameter of the > bearing is 1.2500 to 1.245. As you can see, due to the different manufacturers > and that the two parts are not selected for size from a larger inventory, we are > stuck with what is sent. Just want to see if I should contact either Van's or > the wheel manufacturer. > > I too had to polish and sand away on my RV-4 gear. It was rather discouraging at first as it seemed like an impossibly tight fit. It took about 2 hours of work to finally get it sanded/ground down so the wheels would slip one. A very common occurrence on these aircraft and Van tells me it is due to the heat treatment of the gear that causes the slight discrepancies. Doug Weiler MN Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: The RG battery has come to WalMart . . .
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Bob the battery in question is made by exide I use to sell them not a bad battery but never sold enough to tell ,never liked exide to many warranties dropped the line after 6 months and 40% failure rate. Ken Bend Battery and Auto Electric Top Skin Left on wings 6-A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Larry Vetterman
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
Thanks Bill. I have his number now. Regards, Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (N401TC reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Larry Vetterman
From: Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com>
Thank you Garry. Regards, Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (N401TC reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: CherryMax rivets
Date: Apr 10, 2000
> Can anyone educate me about CherryMax rivets? Are they the same thing > as Cherry rivets? I understand they are essentially a solid pop-rivet, > to be used somewhere that you absolutely can't get a bucking bar, and > they are generally considered to be structural strength rivets as long > as you use the right size. > > What I would like to know is what sizes and types might be needed in > building an RV? The reason I ask is that a retired A&P friend of mine > gave me several zip-loc baggies containing about 3 or 4 different sizes > of Cherry Max rivets. He also has other sizes if I need them. He knows > they're expensive, and he also knows I may need a few of them here and > there as time goes on. > > First of all, how can I tell what size and type the ones he gave me > are? Is there a spec sheet available somewhere that tells what size > Cherry rivet to use in place of any given solid rivet? > > Secondly, a local pawn shop has a few bags of Cherry rivets, they don't > say CherryMax, just Cherry. Would these be the right ones or not? If > they are the right type and the right size, they would be a real bargain > (a bag of 100 for $10.00). > George True George, Rick and Doug have already answered most of your question very well. Having finished the airframe on an -8 I can tell you that you will need them in a few places on the fuselage (none in the wings or emp). There are maybe a half dozen spots in corners etc. where it's just about impossible to buck yet you can't afford the loss of structural integrity you'd suffer by using a regular blind rivet. As Doug points out, the CherryMax series is considered structural. Speaking of "afford", CherryMax rivets are very expensive, some models aroud $.75 each, so your fried did you quite a favor in giving those to you. One thing I would add, pay attention to grip range. CherryMax's must be used within their specified grip range in order to be considered structural, they are not as forgiving as the regular type blind rivets Van's gives you in the kit. ACS sells a simple grip gauge for about $10... a whorthwhile investment if you plan on using many of them. BTW, Cherry also makes a non-structural blind rivet comparable to Pop brand - this is likely what you saw in the pawn shop. BTW, BTW, when you set a CherryMax make sure you do it right the first time... they are a b*$#@ to drill out because the mandrel is fairly hard steel. Get buildin! Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, a wirin away www.pacifier.com/~randyl Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets
Date: Apr 10, 2000
Tim: I'm installing Warren's system in my RV-6, same as you. Just finished installing it in my wings. Others have reported excellent results with this pitot/static system. But your report bothers me. Did you ask Warren to send you another pitot tube to test? Did Warren have any other suggestions for you? What circumstances led you to give up on the static part of this system? Just trying to get to the root cause of your problem if I can. Thanks for any further information you can provide. Pat Hatch RV-4, N17PH @ INT RV-6, Wings done. ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 8:23 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets > > On 9 Apr 00, at 8:51, Russ Werner wrote: > > > Is you tube mounted as Warren describes in his instructions and what bay > > in relation to the bellcrank access plate did you mount it in? > > As I recall, I installed it as described in Warren's plans. Photo is at > www.geocities.com/timrv6a/pitot_tube.jpg . > I moved the tie down ring 1 bay outboard to avoid having ropes > damage the pitot tube. > > Tim > ****** > Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA > RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 > TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net > http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org>
Subject: Re: CherryMax rivets
George, You can get the product catalog in PDF format at: http://www.taf.textron.com The catalog explains how to interpret the part number to figure out what you have. The type sold by Van's are CherryMAX "Bulbed" Rivets, #3212 (standard size). Aircraft Spruce also carries #3242 (oversized). They are relatively expensive, about $0.50 a piece in small quantities. They also take a special puller, not the usual pop rivet tool from Home Depot. George True wrote: > > > Can anyone educate me about CherryMax rivets? Are they the same thing > as Cherry rivets? I understand they are essentially a solid pop-rivet, > to be used somewhere that you absolutely can't get a bucking bar, and > they are generally considered to be structural strength rivets as long > as you use the right size. > > What I would like to know is what sizes and types might be needed in > building an RV? The reason I ask is that a retired A&P friend of mine > gave me several zip-loc baggies containing about 3 or 4 different sizes > of Cherry Max rivets. He also has other sizes if I need them. He knows > they're expensive, and he also knows I may need a few of them here and > there as time goes on. > > First of all, how can I tell what size and type the ones he gave me > are? Is there a spec sheet available somewhere that tells what size > Cherry rivet to use in place of any given solid rivet? > > Secondly, a local pawn shop has a few bags of Cherry rivets, they don't > say CherryMax, just Cherry. Would these be the right ones or not? If > they are the right type and the right size, they would be a real bargain > (a bag of 100 for $10.00). > > I checked the archives, but there were only about 15 references, none of > them very helpful. > > George True > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Electric Gyros
Date: Apr 10, 2000
I requested info from ACS about the $995 electric attitude gyros that they have begun to carry. Today I received a photocopy of some information on at. There is no mention of where it is made or if it is IFR certified. Highlights are P/N 10-00013, 2.41 lbs, push to cage knob, and a low power/power failure tab. It seems to come from a company called Wultrad Inc in Libertyville IL. I am still searching for a better price than $1650 (with tilt mod done) on the RC Allen equivalent. Any body beat this price lately? Norman Hunger ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV6 accident - last month
Hello listers. You may recall that there was a RV6 fatality about 2 to 3 weeks ago near Taft Ca.(west of Bakersfield) Some one posted a newspaper account of the accident on this list. In the report it said that the pilot had declared an emergency but not much more. Does anyone know what caused this terrible tragedy? I believe the pilot was Daniel Birx from Oakley. Any information would be much appreciated. I know it hurts to discuss these things but if we can learn something from this (and other) accidents, hopefully we will be wiser and more likely to avoid such tragedies. Ken Cantrell RV6Q-finish kit Lodi Ca. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Prop installation angle
Installing the prop: when the engine is at TDC the prop is at what angle? Sorry to spam the list with this, I know I've seen it in the past but I spent an hour in the archives and couldn't locate it. Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2000
From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Navaid Altitude Hold
That's correct - his company is Porcine Associates and the web site is: http://www.porcine.com/ I tried to get a DG that would use his coupler, so that I could set & fly a heading bug setting on the DG. So far I haven't had any luck. The company he mentions says they are out of stock of the DG's with a 5000 Hz signal and it could be months before more become available. Guess I could always buy his GPS smart coupler & fly a constant ground track. Phil Smith, 80691 > On March 23 I emailed Navaid and asked about their plans to build an > altitude hold. I heard back from Richard Ray who said they have a consulting > engineer working on a prototype that still needs tweaking of the software. > > > Norman Hunger > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Gyros
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Norman: My Airspeed Indicator from Vans is manufactured in China and distributed by Wultrad Inc. in Libertyville,Il 60048 It seems of very high quality. Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 12:32 AM Subject: RV-List: Electric Gyros > > I requested info from ACS about the $995 electric attitude gyros that they > have begun to carry. Today I received a photocopy of some information on at. > There is no mention of where it is made or if it is IFR certified. > > Highlights are P/N 10-00013, 2.41 lbs, push to cage knob, and a low > power/power failure tab. > > It seems to come from a company called Wultrad Inc in Libertyville IL. > > I am still searching for a better price than $1650 (with tilt mod done) on > the RC Allen equivalent. Any body beat this price lately? > > > Norman Hunger > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Prop installation angle
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Mike, You are NOT spaming the list. This is a good question, I will be awaiting an answer also. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (wiring) Niantic, CT >From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Prop installation angle >Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 22:20:47 -0700 > > >Installing the prop: when the engine is at TDC the prop is at what angle? >Sorry to spam the list with this, I know I've seen it in the past but I >spent an hour in the archives and couldn't locate it. > >Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets
Date: Apr 11, 2000
>>Did you ask Warren to >>send you another pitot tube to test? I put the Gretz Pitot on my airplane. Make sure you ask all your questions up front though. I was never able to get him to support the product after I purchased it. Many emails and calls went unanswered. My question was realted to the kind of plumbing to connect it to. I figured it out on my own though. I have an RV6A and unless I screwed up building the wing, or I have the first RV6A to stall at less than 30 knots, I have airspeed error at low speeds (ie. high angles of attack). I don't let it bother me though. I don't know if this is realted to the pitot or the static port being on top of the probe. Next time I'm out there I'll stall and see what happens to altitude and VVI. That should give some indication. Anyway don't purchase anything from Gretz for his after sales support and you will be okay. Gary Fesenbek RV6A Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 43 Msgs - 04/10/00
Date: Apr 11, 2000
>>I'm trying to hook up a small fuel valve to act a an alternate static air >>source. >>Norman Hunger >>RV6A Delta BC I used a small fuel valve I purchased from Aircraft Spruce. It is PN FFV03 for $14.95 (page 155 in the 1998&1999 catalog). You can't get the .250 OD line to fit on these connectors, but you can purchase some tubing 3/8" OD and 1/4" (.250) ID to go over the fuel valve connectors and then over the .250 OD tubing. Cut a piece long enough to insert the smaller tubing in about six to nine inches and coat the inner tubing with RTV to seal it. Put a couple of safetywire clamps on that and you are good to go. This valve has positions for left-right and off. I think I made left the static system, right open to the cockpit and the supply line of course goes to the instrument. Take a piece of scrap 63 and make a mounting bracket for it. It has worked well for me and I passed my pitot-static system checkout (more on that in the archives). Hope this helps, Gary Fesenbek RV6A Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV6 accident - last month
--- Ken Cantrell wrote: > Hello listers. > You may recall that there was a RV6 fatality about 2 > to 3 weeks ago near > Taft Ca.(west of Bakersfield) Some one posted a > newspaper account of the > accident on this list. In the report it said that > the pilot had declared an > emergency but not much more. Does anyone know what > caused this terrible > tragedy? I believe the pilot was Daniel Birx from > Oakley. Any information > would be much appreciated. I know it hurts to > discuss these things but if we > can learn something from this (and other) accidents, > hopefully we will be > wiser and more likely to avoid such tragedies. > > Ken Cantrell RV6Q-finish kit > Lodi Ca. > Ken: I find the NTSB web site the best source of accident information. This particular accident on the NTSB site is located at: http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/LAX/00A141.htm It took the NTSB about 2 weeks to get the information posted but they are usually very accurate. There was also an RV-6A landing accident in Sacramento on April 2, 2000. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv660wm(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Re: Navaid Altitude Hold
In a message dated 4/11/00 2:26:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pdsmith(at)pacbell.net writes: << I tried to get a DG that would use his coupler, so that I could set & fly a heading bug setting on the DG. So far I haven't had any luck. The company he mentions says they are out of stock of the DG's with a 5000 Hz signal and it could be months before more become available >> Hi Phil, Try century. I had a 5000 hz DG from them and decided later to just couple to the GPS and returned it to them in trade for the non tracking one for less money and weight. Bernie Kerr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Prop installation angle
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Mike - According to Tony Bingelis in his book 'Tony Bingelis on Engines', page 210, he states that you should rotate the engine so that the starter ring gear "O" mark is at 12 o'clock and lined up with the upper split in the crankcase. Mount the propellor with the blades pointing to 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock as viewed from the front of the aircraft. After running the engine it will stop with the blades at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock which is also an ideal position to hand prop the engine. Hope this helps. ----------------------------------------------------- Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Southern Alberta > > > >Installing the prop: when the engine is at TDC the prop is at what angle? > >Sorry to spam the list with this, I know I've seen it in the past but I > >spent an hour in the archives and couldn't locate it. > > > >Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: We've got books!
Just got a call from our printer . . . fresh Rev 9 books are coming out the end of the pipe. Anyone who has a book ordered with us or Andy Gold can expect to see it in the mail pretty soon. Books will start leaving here tomorrow, Andy will have his books probably by Friday. Thank you all for your patience. BTW, the price of the book has gone down. We increased the size of the first printing and the print shop gave us a better price. We're passing that savings on to our customers. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( The only time you don't fail is the last ) ( time you try something, and it works. ) ( One fails forward toward success. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Re: Prop installation angle
I think the term is "prop indexing"....LPM (Light Plane Maintenance) ran a article last year on it. I loaned the article out & it disappeared into the eather like most things I loan out........anyone got a copy ? dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net on 04/11/2000 10:00:02 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop installation angle Mike - According to Tony Bingelis in his book 'Tony Bingelis on Engines', page 210, he states that you should rotate the engine so that the starter ring gear "O" mark is at 12 o'clock and lined up with the upper split in the crankcase. Mount the propellor with the blades pointing to 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock as viewed from the front of the aircraft. After running the engine it will stop with the blades at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock which is also an ideal position to hand prop the engine. Hope this helps. ----------------------------------------------------- Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Southern Alberta > > > >Installing the prop: when the engine is at TDC the prop is at what angle? > >Sorry to spam the list with this, I know I've seen it in the past but I > >spent an hour in the archives and couldn't locate it. > > > >Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-LIST rv4 WHEEL BEARING TIGHT
(from the archives) use a belt sander with the grit turned inside-out. Drive the belt with the sander and float the other end of the belt around tha axil. Run the sander and do a full 360 arount the axil. Takes one swipe and 10 seconds. Use fine grit belt on belt sander. N41RV RV-4 willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil on 04/10/2000 08:13:34 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-LIST rv4 WHEEL BEARING TIGHT Dave, I did this on my RV-4 about 6 months ago and found the same thing. The advice I got from the list and from Vans was to sand/polish the axle down with emery cloth until the wheel just slips on. Mike Wills RV4 firewall forward stuff (Mazda 13B) willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil > >Listers: > >Upon finally getting this project on it's own tires I stumbled upon yet >another >project. I did research the archives and found an old string on tight wheel >bearings. As very little has come up lately I want to know if this is still a >problem. I have measured the discrepancy and it is within the normal >tolerance >of the two parts. The axel is 1.25 +- .005 and the inside diameter of the >bearing is 1.2500 to 1.245. As you can see, due to the different >manufacturers >and that the two parts are not selected for size from a larger inventory, >we are >stuck with what is sent. Just want to see if I should contact either Van's or >the wheel manufacturer. > >Dave Aronson >RV4 N504RV >Engine ready to mount. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Prop mounting angle
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Van's RVATOR a few years back had a short note on this...I think the RVATOR issue was about 5 years old and I do positively recall that the prop should be at 2 and 8 o'clock, but can't be positive if that referred to the nr 1 cylinder at tdc or some alignment with the starter ring gear...if noone can positively come up with the answer I still have the old RVATORS at the hangar and can post a reprint of Van's article tomorrow on the Rv list net. Let me know if you want me to do so. RV6A Flying Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Prop installation angle
Installing the prop: when the engine is at TDC the prop is at what angle? Sorry to spam the list with this, I know I've seen it in the past but I spent an hour in the archives and couldn't locate it. Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV ----------------- Mike, Here is a repost from Sensenich about prop postion back in Jan, 1999. And don't think you spamming the list by asking a good question. That's what were all here for, the transfer of information. Just remember all the information is worth what you paid for it. Laird RV-6 22923 SoCal finishing and finishing and finishing ------------------ Rob, Glad to see your mounting the prop! Here is our "official" word on indexing your Sensenich propeller: The proper position is to install the propeller number one blade at 11 o clock when the number one cylinder is top-dead-center (TDC). TDC can be found by turning the ring gear and crankshaft until the line on the ring gear (marked by TC #1) is aligned with a punch mark on the front edge of the starter housing. Another way, would be to remove the spark plug from the number one cylinder (facing the engine from the propeller flange, this is the 1st cylinder on the left side for Lycomings) and while turning the crankshaft put your thumb over the spark plug hole. On the compression stroke you will feel pressure build and when the mag clicks the cylinder is close to TDC. Using a flash light the exact TDC can be found. This is the best position for hand proping. It also makes the propeller stop near vertical during shutdown (or engine stoppage). There you have it! Ed Zercher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Prop mounting angle
> Van's RVATOR a few years back had a short note on this...I think the RVATOR > issue was about 5 years old The short article was published by Van's in October 1992. Here it is again from page 210 of 18 YEARS OF THE RV-ATOR. PROPELLER POSITIONING When I began to fit my prop questions arose. The starter ring gear is keyed to the flange and can only go one way. The corresponding hole on the ring gear has a small "o" stamped besides it. But there are 6 posible positions for the prop. Does the relationship between the prop and the plane crank matter? I noticed at Van's homecoming that almost every plane had the prop at the same angle when the engine stopped. Coincidence? Time to learn more. Luckily the Lycoming rep showed up. He explained, there is a correct position. When the T/C mark on the back of a correctly installed ring gear is at 12 o'clock, aligned with the split line of the case, a 2-blade prop should be mounted at the 2/8 o'clock position, veiwed facing the airplane. This aligns the prop as intended and minimizes vibration. Also when the engine stops, the prop will come to rest at the 10/4 o'clock position, making it possible to hand prop if necessary. Andy Gold Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Re: Prop installation angle
I asked the DAR a similar question during my inspection this past weekend. No, he didn't fail me for asking a stupid question. In my case I have a constant speed prop. It seems the prop nuts installed in the engine hub only allow the prop to be installed in two positions. Both positions are 180 degrees apart. If the prop is installed in another position, the nuts are pushed out of the rear of the hub about a 1/16 to 1/8 inch when tightened. I haven't checked the correct prop position relative to TDC. I enjoyed safety wiring the prop bolts so much that I actually did each one three times. Tom Brown RV-4 wiring RV4Brown(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Subject: Fuel Leak in the Cockpit
Date: Apr 11, 2000
I'm in the home stretch with my -8 and now beginning to reinspect and think about possible failure modes before the first flight. I've come up with a question that could use some help from everyone... Has anyone tried to address the issue of managing or containing a fuel leak in the cockpit? The failure mode would be broken tubing, broken/leaking fitting or broken/leaking selector valve. The effect could ruin your whole day... I believe the area just below the forward fuselage is a relatively high pressure zone and the fuel wouldn't simply pass through a drain hole in the floor. How about some small venturi apparatus to draw any liquids out? Any other ideas... Thanks Bryan Jones N765BJ Pearland, Texas making ready for test flight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: 115 VAC 400Hz
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Is it possible to run an HSI that needs 115 VAC at 400 HZ on our 12 VDC aircraft? Does this require an inverter? How much do these cost and weigh? Advantages or disadvantages please? Thank-you, Norman Hunger RV6A Delta, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Fuel Leak in the Cockpit
Date: Apr 11, 2000
I understand your concern with fuel in the cockpit. IF you have installed your lines correctly with grommets at each bulkhead and bulkhead fittings when passing through the firewall or out to the wings, you should have little to worry about. If a leak would develop in your tank lines, the suction from the engine driven pump would draw air into, and not let gas out. If you smell gas, your probably will be on the ground without the engine running at which time your should inspect, find the source, and repair. If you have a fuel pressure gage, it will begin to fluctuate when there is a leak with air being drawn in. Your solution is admirable but unnecessary and adds weight and complexity for a very remote problem. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 11:55 AM Subject: RV-List: Fuel Leak in the Cockpit <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com> > > I'm in the home stretch with my -8 and now beginning to reinspect and think > about possible failure modes before the first flight. I've come up with a > question that could use some help from everyone... > > Has anyone tried to address the issue of managing or containing a fuel leak > in the cockpit? The failure mode would be broken tubing, broken/leaking > fitting or broken/leaking selector valve. The effect could ruin your whole > day... > > I believe the area just below the forward fuselage is a relatively high > pressure zone and the fuel wouldn't simply pass through a drain hole in the > floor. How about some small venturi apparatus to draw any liquids out? Any > other ideas... > > Thanks > > Bryan Jones > N765BJ > Pearland, Texas > making ready for test flight > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Leak in the Cockpit
Date: Apr 11, 2000
> >I'm in the home stretch with my -8 and now beginning to reinspect and think >about possible failure modes before the first flight. I've come up with a >question that could use some help from everyone... > >Has anyone tried to address the issue of managing or containing a fuel leak >in the cockpit? The failure mode would be broken tubing, broken/leaking >fitting or broken/leaking selector valve. The effect could ruin your whole >day... > >I believe the area just below the forward fuselage is a relatively high >pressure zone and the fuel wouldn't simply pass through a drain hole in the >floor. How about some small venturi apparatus to draw any liquids out? >Any >other ideas... > >Thanks > >Bryan Jones >N765BJ >Pearland, Texas >making ready for test flight Bryan, Install your fuel fittings properly, with no preload on the tubing and you won't have any sudden leaks. Do plenty of runups with the boost pump on to get the highest pressure forward of the pump to check that short length of tubing from the discharge side of the pump to the firewall. If there are any leaky fittings, they will become evident during these tests. The fuel pressure behind the pump is very low so you should not have any pressure induced failures of the fittings or tubing aft of the pump. Wear Nomex if you can get it, go fly and have fun! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 73 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TBRV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Sun-n-Fun time to climb attempt
Listers, anyone returning from Sun-n-Fun. I'd like to hear if Bruce Bohannon's time to climb record attempt was successful today. While unable to make the trip to Lakeland, I'm interested to know how it went. I live near his home field and try to follow his efforts. Thanks. Troy Black -8 emp done ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: 115 VAC 400Hz
Date: Apr 11, 2000
They make a solid state converter. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 12:31 PM Subject: RV-List: 115 VAC 400Hz > > Is it possible to run an HSI that needs 115 VAC at 400 HZ on our 12 VDC > aircraft? > > Does this require an inverter? How much do these cost and weigh? > > Advantages or disadvantages please? > > > Thank-you, > Norman Hunger > RV6A Delta, BC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Sun-N-Fun Sun 100
Does anyone have the results of yesterdays Sun 100??Jim Brown, Matawan,NJ, RV-3&4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace...
Hello RV-4 Builders, Over the years I have kept my eye out for a nice canopy brace installation on an RV-4 in hopes of doing something nice on mine when the time came. A couple of years ago I had a conversation with another List member and RV-4 builder about a system that he had used. He was kind enough to procure a pneumatic strut for me and this weekend I set to coming up with a way to install it. I am *very* pleased with the way it came out and best of all it is very unobtrusive in general and specifically to the rear passenger. While there isn't really enough pressure in the strut to significantly slow the decent of the canopy, it works very well at holding it in the open position. I've included a number of picture links below. The last shot is a closeup of the tag on the strut in case you wish to locate one yourself. Thanks again to my friend from CO for the perfect strut and for the idea (he asked to remain anonymous.) Let me know if you have any questions. http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace1.jpg http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace2.jpg http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace3.jpg http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace4.jpg http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace5.jpg http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace6.jpg Best regards, Matt Dralle RV-4 #1763, N442RV To Be... -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Volume module for Telex headset?
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Listers, I have a Telex Airman ANR-200 headset that my wife uses in our RV. We bought it a few years ago exclusively for her use since it's very small, lightweight and does not press on her temples. (She's had jaw surgery for TMJ). Unfortunately, the thing doesn't have a volume control on it! It worked fine in (quieter) spam cans, but is causing quite a volume imbalance in the RV intercom system. I can't seem to find a happy medium for volume for the Telex headset, and my Marv Golden mono headset WITH volume. I crank the intercom volume waaay down so Debbie doesn't get blasted, then crank up my headset to hear properly but this causes distortion. I emailed Telex customer support and they pretty much said to go look for a volume control of some sort at an electronics store. Uh yeah, right. Does anybody know of a volume potentiometer with phone plugs in some sort of completed unit or am I going to have to wire one up myself? Is there a schematic out there? I can't believe anyone would design a headset with NO volume control. Man, I wish I had caught that BEFORE I bought the darned thing... Thanks, Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Static Lines
Norman, I am not quite there yet, but I will eventually put an alternate static source on my airplane. Rather than going through the trouble, complexity, and weight of a valve & fitting set, how about the following: Put a "T" inline on the static line. Thread a cap onto the unused port of the "T". Use copper "breakaway" safety wire to keep the cap from backing off. It is simple and effective as long as you can easily get to it. -Glenn Gordon > > I'm trying to hook up a small fuel valve to act a an alternate static air > source. I would like to install it at my left knee but I have been having > trouble finding a nylon "T" that splits the hard nylon tubing that comes in > Vans Static Air Kit. I want to interrupt the run from the tail before it > gets to the panel and branch it off to a valve. All three openings of the > "T" have to be the same. Every "T" that I have found has one end different > from the others for an instrument.Can any one who has done this pass me the > part number and source please? > > My next difficulty is getting the hard shell nylon tubing (0.250" OD) to > mate with the pipe thread on the fuel valve (0.375"). Any suggestions? > > I have found a nylon pipe to hose adapter but the hard shell of the nylon > tubing won't stretch on like a rubber hose would. Can I use a soft shell > line in the static system? Simular to the stuff that connects the two ports > only bigger and one end would have to go into the nylon fitting.I would need > a 6" run down to the valve. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "j.j. banks " <tinmanjj(at)ptd.net>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace...
Date: Apr 11, 2000
fine pictures ,matt . I built one similar to that in 1987 just beware that you should not walk away from your rv with it propped open cause some idiot atan airshow can blow it away when he fires up his p51 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 3:40 PM Subject: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace... > --> RV4-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > > Hello RV-4 Builders, > > Over the years I have kept my eye out for a nice canopy brace > installation on an RV-4 in hopes of doing something nice on mine when the > time came. A couple of years ago I had a conversation with another List > member and RV-4 builder about a system that he had used. He was kind > enough to procure a pneumatic strut for me and this weekend I set to > coming up with a way to install it. I am *very* pleased with the way it > came out and best of all it is very unobtrusive in general and > specifically to the rear passenger. While there isn't really enough > pressure in the strut to significantly slow the decent of the canopy, it > works very well at holding it in the open position. I've included a > number of picture links below. The last shot is a closeup of the tag on > the strut in case you wish to locate one yourself. Thanks again to my > friend from CO for the perfect strut and for the idea (he asked to > remain anonymous.) Let me know if you have any questions. > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace1.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace2.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace3.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace4.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace5.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace6.jpg > > > Best regards, > > Matt Dralle > RV-4 #1763, N442RV To Be... > > > -- > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV8 Flap Brace (W-821pp) installation
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Wayne/Anyone else, How did your flap brace turn out? Lesson learned? I'm faced with the same problem. Already been to the archives, Larry Bowen RV-8 wings Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > > I have a question on installing the flap brace on the RV8. > It appears the bottom wing skin (W-821-PP) is 3/16" too short. > When the flap brace (W821PP) is properly placed, the trailing edge of > the wing skin falls short of the flap brace flange trailing edge. The > dimensions to the flap brace trailing edge match the plans, but > the skin is > 3/16" or so too short. Pushing the brace to match the wing skin produces a > distinct curvature of the wing skin and makes the space between > the top and > bottom wing skins too much, hence a gap between the top wing skin trailing > edge and flap leading edge. How are you correcting this problem? I am > reluctant to put a curve in the flap brace to effectively shorten it for > fear of weakening it. Cutting the flap brace flange would not leave enough > material to rivet to and the hinge would extend too far. I'm stumped and > little help in archieves. > Thanks! > > Wayne Williams > RV8A QB > rwayne(at)gamewood.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace...
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Matt: I noticed a minor problem with your airspring installation. The barrel should always be on top when the airspring is extended. It looks like you should be able to just swap ends. I posted the reason for this about a year ago. Here is a copy of that post: "All air springs contain a small amount of oil to provide damping at the end of the stroke. This protects the air spring from damage that could result by repeated abrupt stops at the end of the stroke. The piston has an orifice in it to control the rate of extension. The speed is relatively fast while the gas is flowing, and then it slows near the end of the stroke when the oil starts flowing through the orifice. The piston on a standard air spring also contains a check valve to allow free movement in the compressing direction. The amount of oil can be varied at the factory to control the amount of damping, but this also affects the ratio of force exerted at the compressed position verses the extended position. Less oil means less change in force. The oil also helps lengthen the life of the seal. In order for all of this to work properly, the air spring MUST be mounted so that the barrel is on top in the extended position." Chris Heitman P.E. Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Wings mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-9A wing rib orientation
Date: Apr 11, 2000
A note to any -9 wing builders out there: I noticed that if you assemble the wing ribs as shown on the plans, that it would be a long reach to buck the rib flange rivets to the bottom skin on the 3rd rib from the tip. The plans show the rib flange facing the tip. This results in a 25 inch reach with the bucking bar. If the ribs are swapped between the right and left wings so that this rib flange faces inboard, the reach to buck from the outermost access hole is only about 14 inches. I asked Van's if it is okay to swap these ribs and Scott Risan replied: "Engineering says you may pick you're poison on this.... the skin is typically rolled up and riveted as you go rather than the 'long' reach." This is a somewhat misleading answer since only the aft third of the skin can be riveted by bending the front of the skin up. The rest of the flange would have to be done using the 'long' reach. I suggest that you swap these ribs if you have not yet match drilled them. Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Wings mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Todd Rudberg <toddr(at)electroimpact.com>
Subject: To Paint or Not To Paint
Date: Apr 11, 2000
I am new to the RV-List, but have been around the production of commercial aircraft - specifically wings (I am currently in the UK working on the a340-600 stage 0 facility). One of my past customers is American Airlines. I did some work for the maintenance department in Tulsa OK and maintain a few contacts there. Note that this is interesting to the paint question as American Airlines do not paint their aircraft. This is a reply I received from an AA engineer regarding the care for their aircraft skins: Dave forwarded this question to me and I'll try to answer it... I'm assuming that by "bare" Aluminum, you are referring to Aluminum sheet that is not "Claded" with a pure aluminum covering. All of our skins are Clad Aluminum alloy, either 2024-T3 or 7075-T6, so with the outer coating of pure Aluminum, they normally don't corrode unless the Clad layer is penetrated. If this happens, ie: like when the skin gets scratched or dented, we typically apply a product called Alodine 1200, which is a chemical conversion coating similar to anodizing. Todd W. Rudberg Saving for an RV-8 To see a really big wing panel (a340-600 panel 2/3): http://www.electroimpact.com/ -----Original Message----- From: dmcooke [mailto:dmcooke(at)nidlink.com] Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 3:12 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: To Paint or Not To Paint Bill Shook wrote: "I am just dying for a reason to toss that primer back in the box. :-)" = = = = = = Bill, From what I could find out by inspecting over fifty years of log books, I may not have the reason you seek. If you live in Florida or some other corrosive environment a painted surface may provide better protection than an annual polish job. However, the results of my investigation are not completely conclusive. The Bonanza spent it's first ten years in Kansas and the second ten years in Arizona. It then spent around twenty years in the SanFrancisco bay area. For approximately 18 years of this time it was sporting a paint job. As dashing as this clothing may have been, it was removed after the plane moved to North Idaho where it has been in the buff for around ten years. Evidently, the folks in the bay area felt that paint was a good idea. However, they did not prime or paint the interior of the fuselage. There is no evidence of primer anywhere except on some castings and brackets which appear to have been painted during the manufacturing process. The inside of the skin does not show any corrosion. Other than a few scratches, probably due to over fifty annual inspections, the skin interior looks almost new. On my -4, I am spraying primer on the areas where things are riveted together like the rib and skin interfaces and reinforcement plates. I completely primed all of the parts on the main spar. However, I am not planning to paint the exterior other than some trim. I was amazed to see the references to reflection damage mentioned in the list. The reflection from the Bonanza skin is warm if you stand by it in the summer sun. However, I have never found it to be hot enough to melt anything. The Bonanza has sun visors to keep reflections from being too much of a problem. Perhaps I will find it to be a different story in the -4 bubble canopy. We shall see. Best Regards, Dave RV-4 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace...
JJ; The canopy restraining system I use on my -4 is a pin through the roll-bar that extends through the canopy frame via plastic bushings in the rollbar. It is vittually impossible to blow open or further closed. Drop me a line sometime and I'll give you the dimensions. Rob Ray smokyray(at)yahoo.com --- "j.j. banks " wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "j.j. banks " > > > fine pictures ,matt . I built one similar to that in > 1987 just beware that > you should not walk away from your rv with it > propped open cause some idiot > atan airshow can blow it away when he fires up his > p51 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 3:40 PM > Subject: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy > Brace... > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: > dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > > > > > Hello RV-4 Builders, > > > > Over the years I have kept my eye out for a nice > canopy brace > > installation on an RV-4 in hopes of doing > something nice on mine when the > > time came. A couple of years ago I had a > conversation with another List > > member and RV-4 builder about a system that he had > used. He was kind > > enough to procure a pneumatic strut for me and > this weekend I set to > > coming up with a way to install it. I am *very* > pleased with the way it > > came out and best of all it is very unobtrusive in > general and > > specifically to the rear passenger. While there > isn't really enough > > pressure in the strut to significantly slow the > decent of the canopy, it > > works very well at holding it in the open > position. I've included a > > number of picture links below. The last shot is a > closeup of the tag on > > the strut in case you wish to locate one yourself. > Thanks again to my > > friend from CO for the perfect strut and for the > idea (he asked to > > remain anonymous.) Let me know if you have any > questions. > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace1.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace2.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace3.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace4.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace5.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace6.jpg > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > Matt Dralle > > RV-4 #1763, N442RV To Be... > > > > > > -- > > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | > Livermore | CA | 94551 > > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | > dralle(at)matronics.com Email > > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring > Products For Aircraft > > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Re: sun-n-fun bill & jeremy
dear listers it was a nice sunny day here in lakeland, i attended the rv6 forum, van was present and started out the meeting with a tribute to bill and jeremy, not about the accident, but their achivements and personalities. this lasted a good 25 minutes, the rest of the meeting was about rv's. as i walked out of the tent at the end of the forum, there were a gaggle of rv's flying above, as they got into the missing man formation, and the one plane pulled up and away, it really hit home. i suspect they did this for bill and jeremy and others who have fallen, although i couldn't hear the speaker. anyway, i accumulated all the remaining items for my panel, except for a transponder. and perfect timing as my finish kit arrived today, 485.00 shipping , ouch. enough for now, i must have walked 40 miles take care scott tampa finishing kit here wooo hoooo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: CherryMax rivets
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Also check out the CR3214-4-2. They are the CherryMax equivalent of the 1097 countersunk rivet. I am using them on the trailing edges of the empennage where I can't fit in a squeezer. They are solid, and when treated with some emory cloth look almost like the "real thing". I have had no trouble using the pop rivet tool from Cleaveland. Steve Johnson RV-8 #80121 ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 10:37 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: CherryMax rivets > > George, > > You can get the product catalog in PDF format at: > http://www.taf.textron.com > > The catalog explains how to interpret the part number to figure out what > you have. The type sold by Van's are CherryMAX "Bulbed" Rivets, #3212 > (standard size). Aircraft Spruce also carries #3242 (oversized). > > They are relatively expensive, about $0.50 a piece in small quantities. > They also take a special puller, not the usual pop rivet tool from Home > Depot. > > George True wrote: > > > > > > Can anyone educate me about CherryMax rivets? Are they the same thing > > as Cherry rivets? I understand they are essentially a solid pop-rivet, > > to be used somewhere that you absolutely can't get a bucking bar, and > > they are generally considered to be structural strength rivets as long > > as you use the right size. > > > > What I would like to know is what sizes and types might be needed in > > building an RV? The reason I ask is that a retired A&P friend of mine > > gave me several zip-loc baggies containing about 3 or 4 different sizes > > of Cherry Max rivets. He also has other sizes if I need them. He knows > > they're expensive, and he also knows I may need a few of them here and > > there as time goes on. > > > > First of all, how can I tell what size and type the ones he gave me > > are? Is there a spec sheet available somewhere that tells what size > > Cherry rivet to use in place of any given solid rivet? > > > > Secondly, a local pawn shop has a few bags of Cherry rivets, they don't > > say CherryMax, just Cherry. Would these be the right ones or not? If > > they are the right type and the right size, they would be a real bargain > > (a bag of 100 for $10.00). > > > > I checked the archives, but there were only about 15 references, none of > > them very helpful. > > > > George True > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-LIST rv4 WHEEL BEARING TIGHT
Thanks for the reply and source for fix. I'll give it a shot. Very good information from the list. Makes it alot easier and much less stress knowing you other builders have fought this stuff before. Thanks again: Dave Aronson N504RV pcondon(at)csc.com wrote: > > (from the archives) use a belt sander with the grit turned inside-out. Drive the > belt with the sander and float the other end of the belt around tha axil. Run > the sander and do a full 360 arount the axil. Takes one swipe and 10 seconds. > Use fine grit belt on belt sander. N41RV RV-4 > > willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil on 04/10/2000 08:13:34 PM > > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-LIST rv4 WHEEL BEARING TIGHT > > > Dave, > > I did this on my RV-4 about 6 months ago and found the same thing. The > advice I got from the list and from Vans was to sand/polish the axle down > with emery cloth until the wheel just slips on. > > Mike Wills > RV4 firewall forward stuff (Mazda 13B) > willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil > > > > >Listers: > > > >Upon finally getting this project on it's own tires I stumbled upon yet > >another > >project. I did research the archives and found an old string on tight wheel > >bearings. As very little has come up lately I want to know if this is still a > >problem. I have measured the discrepancy and it is within the normal > >tolerance > >of the two parts. The axel is 1.25 +- .005 and the inside diameter of the > >bearing is 1.2500 to 1.245. As you can see, due to the different > >manufacturers > >and that the two parts are not selected for size from a larger inventory, > >we are > >stuck with what is sent. Just want to see if I should contact either Van's or > >the wheel manufacturer. > > > >Dave Aronson > >RV4 N504RV > >Engine ready to mount. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick or Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)ismi.net>
Subject: RV-X
Date: Apr 11, 2000
All: I am surprised there has been no discussion about the RV-X article "Mulling the Future" and the associated survey in the 1st 2000 issue of the RVaitor. Once (or has it been a few times) the editors have pulled off some good gotcha's, with well done humor but I certainly took this piece seriously. What do you all think? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Poor flap brace fit
> Were it not for the prepunching, it would be possible to locate the brace > such that no alterations to the brace would be necessary and it would be > possible to eliminate curvature in the wing skin. > Prepunched or not, the rivet spacing attaching the flap brace to the rear spar is rather course (two inch spacing on the 6 if my memory serves me, I don't know about the 8) If you were to put holes in between the prepunched ones you could then align the flap brace as needed. Gary Zilik 6A N99PZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 11, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-X
If you look close in the background of the RV-9 that is being completed in the "development hangar" in the background you can see a glider...hmmm. Van also put in an article on soaring.....things that make you go hmmmmm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot Tube mounting brackets
Gary Fesenbek, You have sent a post to the RV List that concerns me. I am sorry to say I have not, knowingly, receive any message from you about your questions of recomended plumbing for your heated pitot tube you purchased from me. I assure you, I am not trying to avoid your questions. I need to receive the question in order to attempt to answer it. I do not know when you attempted to contact me. If by phone, I have no record of receiving it on my voice recorder. If by e-mail, there was a week to 10 days about two months ago that your messages may have gone into ciber space. I did have some problems then with my modem and it took that long to get it replaced. I am sorry. If there is anything I can do to regain you trust let me know. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2000
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets]]
I am not a great computer person! I goofed in sending my last post and included the wrong attachment. I will try again. Sorry for th extra e-mail traffic. Here it goes, again! Greetings to all, I have been scratching my head as to the reported cause of Tim Lewis errors in air speed when using the AN5814 heated pitot tube. I have no quick answers. It could be many things, but I do not know all the facts of what Tim has experienced, how it was installed and what testing Tim did. I would be interested to learn more about this if there is more information out there that will help. I have not heard from anyone, including Tim, prior to the post a couple of nights ago that there has been any problems with the AN5814 pitot installation. I trust what Tim says is true as I know he is an excellent builder and pilot. But, I currently do not have enough information to make any statement as to the cause. One thing I will do here is attach an e-mail I sent in response to a question I received last night on this topic. I hope in some small way it helps. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 18:36:59 -0600 From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> Subject: Re: [Fwd: RV-List: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets] Hello George, Thanks for the e-mail. I am surprised and concerned about Tim Lewis post that the AN5814 seems to have static errors. I do not know exactly how Tim installed the mounting bracket kit, but he said today in a post that he followed my instructions. He, I am sure is an excellent builder and an excellent pilot. I don't know if he did something that would induce the error. He did not say in which direction the errors were. One could guess that he may have had a static leak at one of the fittings. This could falsely indicate a pitot/static tube unit problem. If when he re-connected the static source to the dual button static source he may have sealed the leak. This is all just a wild guess. I don't know what he did and I do not intend to prove him right or wrong . One thing is for sure. I have stated many times to builders that nearly all pitot tube and static port installations (in any airplane) are not truly accuracte. A person that wants an absolute accurate air speed system would have to install a boom that is about 4-6 feet projecting out into the totally undisturbed air in front of the aircraft. It would have to have a gimbled head with a small vane assembly that would allow the entrance to the dynamic source to always stay perfectly aligned into the relative wind. This is what is done by many certified aircraft builders for the certification process. It is also used by CAFE (sp??) that reviews many homebuilts and certified aircraft. This is the only way to get accurate airspeed. For you and me, the average flyer, we are interested in whatever airspeed YOUR aircraft and instrumets indicates when at a stall. The airspeed indicator could be just a blank face with a dial and a few marks that mean: too slow, too fast, best glide, best approach, best climb and just right. The numbers on an airspeed indicator are relative. Your ground speed will be determined by your GPS and very accurately too. I don't want to say I am an expert on the subject at all. I just believe there are alot of places that installation, method of testing for data gathering, and how much accuracy the pilot expects to see could enter into the process of what is an accurate airspeed and static. The kits I make and sell are designed around Van's little bent tube. I am sure Van has found that his bent tube works good enough for him. I fashioned the prototype of mounting bracket and with the AN5814 in place. With this pitot tube, the entrance to the dynamic source is at almost exactly the same place in space as that of Van's bent tube pitot. If you are concerned about all of this, maybe the best route for you to go is for the heated pitot tube without the static source. It is the PH502-12CR and I sell it for much less than the AN5814 so there is a cost savings. Please let me know what you think about all of this and if there is anything else I can do to help you. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero website address: www.gretzaero.com George True wrote: > Warren, > > I am building an RV-8, currently starting work on the wings. I have > heard a lot about your heated pitot tubes, liked what I heard, and had > pretty much decided I would be buying pitot tube and mounting bracket > kit from you sometime this year. Last week, I looked at a local > builder's RV-8A project (Bill Christie). He was working on mounting one > of the pitot tubes with static source. I was impressed with the quality > of the hardware, and this reinforced my decision to use your products. > > Meanwhile, there was a posting to the RV-list which I have forwarded to > you in this e-mail. This individual reported rather large static > pressure errors, resulting in very erroneous indicated airspeeds. > > Is this, in your opinion a frequent problem, or more of an isolated > incident? Is it possible that this particular individual did not mount > the pitot tube in the right location? Are there other potential > installation errors or individual aircraft anomolies that could account > for the errors this person experienced? > > I really like the idea of having a heatable static source right on the > pitot tube, but I would also like and expect the indicated airspeeds and > altitude to be pretty much right on the money. Otherwise, why spend the > extra money, right? > > To be fair, I have also heard of people experiencing errors of this > nature with the fuselage mounted/pop rivet static source. But these > were usually solvable by raising or lowering the cone of material > (ie-pop rivet head) around the static opening. > > Warren, would you get back to me with your opinion of the enclosed > e-mail? Do most of your customers find your pitot tube/static source to > be accurate? Are there common (or uncommon) installation errors that > would cause these types of inaccuracies? > > Sincerely, > > George True > true(at)uswest.net > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets > Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 20:50:45 -0400 > From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Warren's pitot tube mounting brackets are first rate, and I found him to > be a great person with whom to do business. One pitot tube lesson > learned from my flying RV-6A: > > - The heated pitot-static tube (AN5814-1) installed on my plane had > significant static pressure errors. The static pressure was too high at > low speeds, and too low at high speeds. Airspeed indicator errors > were around 15 knots at stall, and around 12 knots at Vne. > Accompanying the airspeed error is significant (>100' at high speeds) > altitude error. See Kevin Horton's analysis and superb spreadsheet > for all the gory details. > - I abandoned the static ports on the AN5814-1, and reverted to Van's > pop rivet static ports. Low speed errors essentially disappeared, and > high speed errors were reduced by about half (170KIAS = 164KCAS, > for example). > - I still have an alternate static port inside the cockpit, which induces > fewer errors than did the static port on the AN5814-1. > - Summary: I recommend Warren's mount, but I would advise against > the pitot tube with integral static ports because of the large errors I > saw. > > Tim > > ****** > Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA > RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 > TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net > http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com>
Subject: RV-3 web site improvement
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Hello Folks, I've updated my RV-3 site, worth a gander, let me know what you think. www.seanet.com/~bruceme/ShotGun.htm Bruce Meacham ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" <James.Johnson(at)pentagon.af.mil>
Subject: RE: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace...
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Smokey, I was at Sun-N-Fun, sorry I missed you!!! I bought a pin like yours and am installing it this next weekend. Also got a Garmin 195 GPS at SnF, $695!!!! Flew home with it. I had triple redundant navigation, GPS 195/90 and Loran! Beats anything I flew in jets with!!! Jj -----Original Message----- From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 6:47 PM Subject: Re: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace... --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray JJ; The canopy restraining system I use on my -4 is a pin through the roll-bar that extends through the canopy frame via plastic bushings in the rollbar. It is vittually impossible to blow open or further closed. Drop me a line sometime and I'll give you the dimensions. Rob Ray smokyray(at)yahoo.com --- "j.j. banks " wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "j.j. banks " > > > fine pictures ,matt . I built one similar to that in > 1987 just beware that > you should not walk away from your rv with it > propped open cause some idiot > atan airshow can blow it away when he fires up his > p51 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 3:40 PM > Subject: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy > Brace... > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: > dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > > > > > Hello RV-4 Builders, > > > > Over the years I have kept my eye out for a nice > canopy brace > > installation on an RV-4 in hopes of doing > something nice on mine when the > > time came. A couple of years ago I had a > conversation with another List > > member and RV-4 builder about a system that he had > used. He was kind > > enough to procure a pneumatic strut for me and > this weekend I set to > > coming up with a way to install it. I am *very* > pleased with the way it > > came out and best of all it is very unobtrusive in > general and > > specifically to the rear passenger. While there > isn't really enough > > pressure in the strut to significantly slow the > decent of the canopy, it > > works very well at holding it in the open > position. I've included a > > number of picture links below. The last shot is a > closeup of the tag on > > the strut in case you wish to locate one yourself. > Thanks again to my > > friend from CO for the perfect strut and for the > idea (he asked to > > remain anonymous.) Let me know if you have any > questions. > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace1.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace2.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace3.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace4.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace5.jpg > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace6.jpg > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > Matt Dralle > > RV-4 #1763, N442RV To Be... > > > > > > -- > > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | > Livermore | CA | 94551 > > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | > dralle(at)matronics.com Email > > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring > Products For Aircraft > > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-X
listers yes there is serious talk from van about either a high wing utility four place or a low wing 4 place fixed gear Mooney. he did a hand raising survey , the mooney won, no contest scott tampa finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets]]
My experiences with Warren Gretz have been wonderful. First rate pitot bracket, solid, detailed plans, excellent customer support after the sale. I also like the key tool he sells (for opening RV fuel tank caps). Regarding my AN5814 installation: Test included several elements: - ASI test (using http://rst-engr.com/rst/magazine/kp-89jul.zip) using water column. Test showed the Van's ASI was spot on (errors less than my measurement error). - Pitot and static system leak tests (using tubing clamped to AN5814 covering or exposing the static ports, as appropriate) showed zero leaks (ASI and altitude rock steady over time). - 3 leg GPS runs at various IAS's, entered into http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html to determine TAS, then use whiz wheel to calculate CAS. Later, I discovered Kevin Horton consolidated all this calculation info into http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html. Results - w/ AN 5814 static source: IAS(knots) 45 55 65 75 95 140 160 CAS(knots) 56 63 71 78 94 132 149 Linear fit gives KCAS = (.813)KIAS + 18.1 - Stall occured at about 30-35 KIAS, which is well below the factory-reported 49 mph stall speed of an RV-6. Gary Fesenbek's email confirms he's seeing similar indications using the 5814 static ports. - Using the airspeed formula, indicated airspeed error at Vne was around 19 knots. - In theory, the altitude error at 160KIAS was about 170 feet (on the dangerous side - indicated altitude higher than actual altitude). Results - w/ Van's pop rivet static ports: IAS(knots) 60 80 110 140 160 170 CAS(knots) 57.5 77 105 135 153 163 Linear fit gives KCAS = (.958)KIAS + .1 - Stall occurred at around 50 knots, corresponding well with factory-reported stall characteristics. - Using the airspeed formula, indicated airspeed error at Vne is now about 8 knots (much better). - In theory, the altitude error at 170KIAS is now about 100 feet, still on the dangerous side. I plan to do a high speed pass down the runway to get rough confirmation of the altitude error. Summary: Eliminating all the error sources I could think of, I found the AN5814's static port to induce significant error in my installation (installed per plans, see photo at www.geocities.com/timrv6a/pitot_tube.jpg , with tie down ring moved 1 bay outboard). Van's static port improved error significantly, but didn't eliminate error. I'd be very interested in seeing good CAS vs IAS data from other flying RVs with the 5814 installed or with the Van's pop rivet static source installed. Tim Lewis Tim Lewis RV-6A N47TD First Flight 18 Dec 99 Springfield VA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wally Penney" <wallyp(at)interlog.com>
Subject: 115 VAC 400Hz
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Norm: I have a 115V/400hz inverter in my RV-3 for a remote compass. It is quite small and I bought it from Aircraft Spruce many years ago. I believe a larger inverter suitable for driving a gyro is also listed in the Aircraft Spruce catalogue. I think they are about $300US. Wally.....RV-3 Toronto do not archieve -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman Hunger Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 10:31 AM Subject: RV-List: 115 VAC 400Hz Is it possible to run an HSI that needs 115 VAC at 400 HZ on our 12 VDC aircraft? Does this require an inverter? How much do these cost and weigh? Advantages or disadvantages please? Thank-you, Norman Hunger RV6A Delta, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: The RG battery has come to WalMart . . .
> >Bob the battery in question is made by exide I use to sell them not a bad >battery but never sold enough to tell ,never liked exide to many warranties >dropped the line after 6 months and 40% failure rate. > Hmmm . . . interesting. We'll have to see how long they last on Walmart's shelves. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( The only time you don't fail is the last ) ( time you try something, and it works. ) ( One fails forward toward success. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: John Lee <borgny(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: Oil quantity
I have and Aerosport IO 360-B1B engine. It came with an unmarked oil stick and I assume that I need to mark it myself. Knowing that the engine should be at 8qts when full, my question is; do I allow for spin-on oil filter and oil cooler capacity when filling? Also, has anyone put an extension on the dip stick tube? Mine seems awfully short. Thanks, John Lee RV6A seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: Oil quantity
John Lee wrote: > I have and Aerosport IO 360-B1B engine. It came with an unmarked oil > stick and I assume that I need to mark it myself. Knowing that the > engine should be at 8qts when full, my question is; do I allow for > spin-on oil filter and oil cooler capacity when filling? Also, has > anyone put an extension on the dip stick tube? > I put a screw on extension on my 0-360- A4M with a longer dipstick. It now comes right up to the filler door making everything very easy. When I fill up, I'll put in a full 7 quarts. That way after the engine runs and oil circulates into the filter, the dipstick reading goes to about 6 1/2 which is where I maintain it. If the dipstick shows much higher than 7, I always get alot of oil splash all over the belly. Andy Builders Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com RV-6A N-5060 (about 100 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188sm(at)cs.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: RV-8 Washers on Enging mount
I received washers to put on engine mount between engine and mount. I have misplaced them. Can anyone tell me how many, thickness, and where they went. I believe there were 2 and went on the right side. Thanks Stan Mehrhoff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: Re: Oil quantity
Hi John, I have the same engine, same company. My engine is installed on an RV4. I had to shorten the plastic dip stick holder 2" to clear the cowl. So, I also shortened the dip stick 2". The stick length was not a problem. The first couple of quarts don't register on the stick. I don't have a spin on filter. The capacity of the oil filter and lines shouldn't be more than a half a quart. I am going to fill the engine with eight quarts marking the stick level after each quart. I will add oil as necessary after running the engine. I know of many people that fly with seven quarts of oil because quart number eight just seems to disappear out the breather. Tom Brown RV4 wiring RV4brown(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-X
Date: Apr 12, 2000
> >All: > >I am surprised there has been no discussion about the RV-X article "Mulling >the Future" and the associated survey in the 1st 2000 issue of the RVaitor. > >Once (or has it been a few times) the editors have pulled off some good >gotcha's, with well done humor but I certainly took this piece seriously. > >What do you all think? I know Van could design an AWESOME four place machine. If I had a need for more seats, I would seriously consider one. At this time, I have no need for such an airplane so I could not reply to Van's with a "yes, I want one" answer. I would rather see the RV-9A enter the certified trainer market. Cessna and Piper would have some SERIOUS competition to deal with. Imagine, a nimble trainer with a decent cross country speed and docile handling characteristics. That alone could rock the general aviation community and really stir up some new pilot starts. I've had more than one request for a ride from pilot-wannabees who have no interest in flying spam. Nuff said. Sorry for the topic departure. ;) Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil quantity
Date: Apr 12, 2000
> >I have and Aerosport IO 360-B1B engine. It came with an unmarked oil >stick and I assume that I need to mark it myself. Knowing that the >engine should be at 8qts when full, my question is; do I allow for >spin-on oil filter and oil cooler capacity when filling? Also, has >anyone put an extension on the dip stick tube? Mine seems awfully >short. > >Thanks, > >John Lee >RV6A seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. I think the filler extension is a MUST. It puts the dipstick just a couple of inches under the oil filler door. I still use a funnel to add oil in case I miss the opening with that bottle of oil! For and oil and filter change, I add seven total quarts of oil. I run the engine with 6 qts indicated on the dipstick. The filter takes up about a quart. For the first fillup, add the full eight to load up the hoses, cooler and filter and see what you read on the dipstick after the first runup. If I add more than six quarts (indicated on the dipstick), I have more mess on the belly to clean up. This works well for me in the taildragger -8. The level attitude of the -6A might give you slightly higher readings on the dipstick with the same volume of oil added. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Subject: RV-X
Date: Apr 12, 2000
RV'ers, A very good source has conveyed to me that it is likely (or very possible) that Van's will redesign the -6 as their one of their next designs. Parts commonality between models is the driving force...basically the new -6 would have wings very close to the -8's in design (the tail is now the same), and would employ a modified prepunched RV-9 fuselage. Don't quote me on any of this (and don't call Vans to ask) as certainly my mouth isn't the horse's mouth, but it makes sense to me. They have most of the leg work done already to do this, from how it appears. Bob Japundza -6 close to flying The techie geek now has a website: http://members.iquest.net/~bjapundza ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace...
Dude; I was there! Flew the Tcraft down from NW FL. Bought a headset and picked up alot of gouge on stuff. I also have bought a Bernie Warnke prop and a metal sensenich with spinner from a guy in oregon. If you are still interested in heavy metal up front, let me know. I wanted the Warnke. Gotta go fly the viper again...our new Litening Targeting pods rule dude...See ya. Smokey --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James, > Maj, AF/XOOT" > > Smokey, > > I was at Sun-N-Fun, sorry I missed you!!! I bought > a pin like yours and am > installing it this next weekend. Also got a Garmin > 195 GPS at SnF, $695!!!! > Flew home with it. I had triple redundant > navigation, GPS 195/90 and Loran! > Beats anything I flew in jets with!!! > > Jj > > -----Original Message----- > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 6:47 PM > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy > Brace... > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray > > > JJ; > > The canopy restraining system I use on my -4 is a > pin > through the roll-bar that extends through the canopy > frame via plastic bushings in the rollbar. It is > vittually impossible to blow open or further closed. > Drop me a line sometime and I'll give you the > dimensions. > > Rob Ray > smokyray(at)yahoo.com > > --- "j.j. banks " wrote: > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "j.j. banks " > > > > > > fine pictures ,matt . I built one similar to that > in > > 1987 just beware that > > you should not walk away from your rv with it > > propped open cause some idiot > > atan airshow can blow it away when he fires up his > > p51 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> > > To: > > Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 3:40 PM > > Subject: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy > > Brace... > > > > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: > > dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > > > > > > > > Hello RV-4 Builders, > > > > > > Over the years I have kept my eye out for a nice > > canopy brace > > > installation on an RV-4 in hopes of doing > > something nice on mine when the > > > time came. A couple of years ago I had a > > conversation with another List > > > member and RV-4 builder about a system that he > had > > used. He was kind > > > enough to procure a pneumatic strut for me and > > this weekend I set to > > > coming up with a way to install it. I am *very* > > pleased with the way it > > > came out and best of all it is very unobtrusive > in > > general and > > > specifically to the rear passenger. While there > > isn't really enough > > > pressure in the strut to significantly slow the > > decent of the canopy, it > > > works very well at holding it in the open > > position. I've included a > > > number of picture links below. The last shot is > a > > closeup of the tag on > > > the strut in case you wish to locate one > yourself. > > Thanks again to my > > > friend from CO for the perfect strut and for the > > idea (he asked to > > > remain anonymous.) Let me know if you have any > > questions. > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace1.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace2.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace3.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace4.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace5.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace6.jpg > > > > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > > > Matt Dralle > > > RV-4 #1763, N442RV To Be... > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | > > Livermore | CA | 94551 > > > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | > > dralle(at)matronics.com Email > > > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring > > Products For Aircraft > > > > > > > > > > > > > > through > > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > Matronics! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" <James.Johnson(at)pentagon.af.mil>
Subject: RE: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace...
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Smokey, I may be. My engine is a 150, or maybe a 160, I don't know for sure. Let me know the bogey dope on it! I sure love my nice, refinished Ed Sterba prop! For you Matronics folks, Mr Ed Sterba re-finished my gravel chipped wood prop FOR FREE!!! He said once you buy a prop from him, he stands behind it. Very impressive!!! And Garmin 195 rocks! Jj -----Original Message----- From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 2:34 PM Subject: RE: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace... --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray Dude; I was there! Flew the Tcraft down from NW FL. Bought a headset and picked up alot of gouge on stuff. I also have bought a Bernie Warnke prop and a metal sensenich with spinner from a guy in oregon. If you are still interested in heavy metal up front, let me know. I wanted the Warnke. Gotta go fly the viper again...our new Litening Targeting pods rule dude...See ya. Smokey --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James, > Maj, AF/XOOT" > > Smokey, > > I was at Sun-N-Fun, sorry I missed you!!! I bought > a pin like yours and am > installing it this next weekend. Also got a Garmin > 195 GPS at SnF, $695!!!! > Flew home with it. I had triple redundant > navigation, GPS 195/90 and Loran! > Beats anything I flew in jets with!!! > > Jj > > -----Original Message----- > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 6:47 PM > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy > Brace... > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray > > > JJ; > > The canopy restraining system I use on my -4 is a > pin > through the roll-bar that extends through the canopy > frame via plastic bushings in the rollbar. It is > vittually impossible to blow open or further closed. > Drop me a line sometime and I'll give you the > dimensions. > > Rob Ray > smokyray(at)yahoo.com > > --- "j.j. banks " wrote: > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "j.j. banks " > > > > > > fine pictures ,matt . I built one similar to that > in > > 1987 just beware that > > you should not walk away from your rv with it > > propped open cause some idiot > > atan airshow can blow it away when he fires up his > > p51 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> > > To: > > Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 3:40 PM > > Subject: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy > > Brace... > > > > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: > > dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > > > > > > > > Hello RV-4 Builders, > > > > > > Over the years I have kept my eye out for a nice > > canopy brace > > > installation on an RV-4 in hopes of doing > > something nice on mine when the > > > time came. A couple of years ago I had a > > conversation with another List > > > member and RV-4 builder about a system that he > had > > used. He was kind > > > enough to procure a pneumatic strut for me and > > this weekend I set to > > > coming up with a way to install it. I am *very* > > pleased with the way it > > > came out and best of all it is very unobtrusive > in > > general and > > > specifically to the rear passenger. While there > > isn't really enough > > > pressure in the strut to significantly slow the > > decent of the canopy, it > > > works very well at holding it in the open > > position. I've included a > > > number of picture links below. The last shot is > a > > closeup of the tag on > > > the strut in case you wish to locate one > yourself. > > Thanks again to my > > > friend from CO for the perfect strut and for the > > idea (he asked to > > > remain anonymous.) Let me know if you have any > > questions. > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace1.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace2.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace3.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace4.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace5.jpg > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace6.jpg > > > > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > > > Matt Dralle > > > RV-4 #1763, N442RV To Be... > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | > > Livermore | CA | 94551 > > > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | > > dralle(at)matronics.com Email > > > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring > > Products For Aircraft > > > > > > > > > > > > > > through > > > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > Matronics! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Heated Pitot tube mounting brackets]]
> Later, I discovered Kevin Horton consolidated all this calculation info into http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html. One small error correction - the calculation info that Tim is refering to is available at: http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/ssec.html. Doug Gray's info on calculating TAS from GPS data has moved due to problems he had with his ISP. It is now available from my site at: http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/doug_gray/TASCALC.ZIP Other flight test info is available at: http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html Take care, Kevin Horton RV-8 (LG Box installation) khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home) Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work) http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: "Hamilton, Thom" <Thom.Hamilton(at)usa.xerox.com>
Subject: RV-X
Separately from the current RV-X rumors/poll, this sounds quite plausible. I'm sure Van's wants to keep the number of SKU's they have to produce and distribute as low as possible. The switch of the RV-6's to the -8 tail last year was a clear indication of that. And a redesign of the RV-6(A) would probably affect their largest current market. I'd say this sounds like a pretty likely scenario, even if they don't give it a new model number or do it all at once. If they are less ambitious than that they could just keep changing things a little at a time as they did the tail and eventually end up in the same place: a redesigned 6(A) with much greater parts commonality. Doesn't sound like a bad idea to me. Thom Hamilton MCSE, CNE, PP-ASEL, etc. RV-8 Wings : Drill, Debur, Dimple, repeat as necessary Baton Rouge, LA 225-753-9339 > -----Original Message----- > From: Japundza, Bob [mailto:bjapundza(at)dowagro.com] > Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 1:14 PM > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-X > RV'ers, > > A very good source has conveyed to me that it is likely (or > very possible) > that Van's will redesign the -6 as their one of their next > designs. Parts > commonality between models is the driving force...basically --snip-- > Bob Japundza > -6 close to flying > The techie geek now has a website: > http://members.iquest.net/~bjapundza > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Washers on Enging mount
Date: Apr 12, 2000
> I received washers to put on engine mount between engine and mount. I have > misplaced them. Can anyone tell me how many, thickness, and where they went. > I believe there were 2 and went on the right side. The builder's manual has a drawing with it all detailed for you. It's in the Finish Kit section. Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Oil quantity
John Lee wrote: > > I have and Aerosport IO 360-B1B engine. It came with an unmarked oil > stick and I assume that I need to mark it myself. Yes, this is correct. > Knowing that the > engine should be at 8qts when full, my question is; do I allow for > spin-on oil filter and oil cooler capacity when filling? No, the dipstick is calibrated to the size of the sump alone. I cheated and borrowed my hangar mates new dipstick and marked mine from his. I have 4, 6 and 8 qt marks. I checked when filling my Bart Lalonde special and it is correct. > Also, has > anyone put an extension on the dip stick tube? Mine seems awfully > short. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Cowl hinge pins
Date: Apr 12, 2000
I am getting set to drill the hinge for the top cowl on my RV-6A. This is the hinge that fastens the cowl to the firewall. I don't see any info in the manual about how long or short to make the pins. I also don't see any info about how to secure those top pins. How did the rest of you do it? Also, I need the grip of steel to move those pins right now. I cannot imagine how I can get them in or out without chucking them in a drill. That means that I will need to bend some sort of handle in the free ends to provide a good grip. What do you experience builders advise? Steve Soule Huntington, VT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com>
Subject: Garmin 295
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Bought a G295 at S&F yesterday. One of the two mounting options is a stick on pad. After about five minutes it let loose. Has anyone fastened this without the stick pad. (Not the yoke mount) . thanks ahead planejoe(at)ewol.com RV6A 91hrs and still grinin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: RV-6 Bottom Cowl Attachment
Over the years, there has been much back and forth on how (un)satisfactory hinges are on the bottom cowl/bottom fuselage skin attachment on the RV-6. Since I'm only days from finishing up this area on my -6, I took the opportunity to look at this on RV-6's and 6A's at Sun and Fun. I can't say I looked at all of the RV-6's that were there, 'cause I didn't, but on the ones I looked at (probably 15 or so), EVERY airplane had damage in that area, or showed evidence of a repair. I know there are a bunch of variables involved (new vs old cowl, builder skill, etc), but I figure I'd rather fly my airplane than make ugly repairs, so I'm going with screws in this area from the start. KB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-X
Date: Apr 12, 2000
I sure would hate to see Van's prices increase enough for him to afford FAA certification. Besides isn't the -9 a little to new to consider that route? Bill > > I would rather see the RV-9A enter the certified trainer market. Cessna and > Piper would have some SERIOUS competition to deal with. Imagine, a nimble > trainer with a decent cross country speed and docile handling > characteristics. That alone could rock the general aviation community and > really stir up some new pilot starts. I've had more than one request for a > ride from pilot-wannabees who have no interest in flying spam. Nuff said. > Sorry for the topic departure. ;) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com>
Subject: RV6A
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Friend of mine asked me to present this problem to the net. He has an RV6A with a completly overhauled 0320 160 hp by a reputable shop and a sterba wood prop. The problem is on static run up he gets 2450 rpm and on take off roll he only gets 2200 rpm. level flight the max rpm at any altitude the max is 2500 rpm. consequently the total performance is affected. Question why the higher static rpm then the take off rpm?????? planejoe(at)ewol.com RV6A 91 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
Subject: Re: RV6A
Date: Apr 12, 2000
> >Friend of mine asked me to present this problem to the net. He has an RV6A >with a completly overhauled 0320 160 hp by a reputable shop and a sterba >wood prop. The problem is on static run up he gets 2450 rpm and on take off >roll he only gets 2200 rpm. level flight the max rpm at any altitude the max >is 2500 rpm. consequently the total performance is affected. Question why >the higher static rpm then the take off rpm?????? > >planejoe(at)ewol.com >RV6A 91 hrs My guess is that the prop is stalled during static run up but not stalled during the take off run. Sounds like it's over pitched to me. John Ammeter 1975 Jensen Healey RV-6 (sold 4/98) EAA Technical Counselor NRA Life Member ICQ#48819374 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-X
Date: Apr 12, 2000
> listers > yes there is serious talk from van about either a high wing utility four > place or a low wing 4 place fixed gear Mooney. > he did a hand raising survey , the mooney won, no contest > scott > Hey Scott, do you know when this was? I wouldn't be surprised to find out that Van has done preliminary design studies on both of these options. About once a year I've been asking the factory about their plans to persue a four seater. I've never gotten a firm answer. I do know that my next one has to have four seats. I have 2 or 3 years to go before I'm going to need another pile of parts. Norman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun time to climb attempt
He didn't break the old record. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BVoutas(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: Re:Charleston S.C. Visit
I will be visiting in Charleston S.C. April 16TH to the 20TH. with my familly. I am building a RV8-A ( skinning wings ) and would love to see any RV's completed or still in the shop. Please reply direct to BVOUTAS@AOL. Thanks. Please do not post. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun time to climb attempt
> > He didn't break the old record. AOPA reports Engine failure foils Bohannon's record attempt. You can read about it on the web: http://www.aopa.org/members/ ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV6A
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Most likely answer is too much pitch in the prop. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RVLIST" >Subject: RV-List: RV6A >Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 19:15:24 -0400 > > >Friend of mine asked me to present this problem to the net. He has an RV6A >with a completly overhauled 0320 160 hp by a reputable shop and a sterba >wood prop. The problem is on static run up he gets 2450 rpm and on take off >roll he only gets 2200 rpm. level flight the max rpm at any altitude the >max >is 2500 rpm. consequently the total performance is affected. Question why >the higher static rpm then the take off rpm?????? > >planejoe(at)ewol.com >RV6A 91 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2000
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com>
Subject: W407 Hole spacing
Listers, here is the first snag on my new wing kit: Drawing 14 (rear spar) shows the spacing for the holes to be drilled in the 407 flange strips. The holes are 3/4 from the bottom edge of the 407 (for the bottom flange), which is fine until the taper starts, then the rivets run right off the edge. Obviously the rivet line needs to be either angled at some point or moved down uniformly due to the taper, but the plans don't say where to start this. A logical place would appear to be after the 5th wing walk rib, since the last seven rivets don't attach to anything else, but I wanted to confirm this before committing drill press to metal. What have y'all done here? Jeff Point jpoint(at)execpc.com -6 wings Milwaukee, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: Re: CherryMax rivets
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Cherry is a name affixed to many rivets. Cherry bulbs have a bulb on pulling head and no lock mechanism. Cherry locks have no bulb on pulling stem and have a lock to retain the pulling stem. You need a special puller though due to lock is soo small it will jam in a pop puller. Cherry max comes with a washer anvil that drives the lock ring into pull stem. These are most common and can be pulled with a hand puller. The rivet is definately structural, but must be bigger than compareable solid rivet for similar strength ( see ac43.13). We use them alot in our helicopters. They come in more types than you suggested as well, there are standard and oversize cherrymax as well as countersunl and round head. Hole size is far more critical since they do not expand as much as a solid. You also need a depth gauge to get length correct. Too long or short and lock will not engage pulling shaft. These rivets are over $1.00 a piece so use is restricted more by price than useability. Used properly they are great. I suggest you get an AC43.13 and you will do fine. Also, these are far harder to remove if you have to, you must either drive pin out first ( hard in thin aluminum without distorting skin) or grind off lock and push shaft out prior to drilling out. -----Original Message----- From: Doug Weiler <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> Date: Monday, April 10, 2000 9:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: CherryMax rivets > >> Can anyone educate me about CherryMax rivets? Are they the same thing >> as Cherry rivets? I understand they are essentially a solid pop-rivet, >> to be used somewhere that you absolutely can't get a bucking bar, and >> they are generally considered to be structural strength rivets as long >> as you use the right size. >> >> What I would like to know is what sizes and types might be needed in >> building an RV? The reason I ask is that a retired A&P friend of mine >> gave me several zip-loc baggies containing about 3 or 4 different sizes >> of Cherry Max rivets. He also has other sizes if I need them. He knows >> they're expensive, and he also knows I may need a few of them here and >> there as time goes on. >> >> First of all, how can I tell what size and type the ones he gave me >> are? Is there a spec sheet available somewhere that tells what size >> Cherry rivet to use in place of any given solid rivet? >> >> Secondly, a local pawn shop has a few bags of Cherry rivets, they don't >> say CherryMax, just Cherry. Would these be the right ones or not? If >> they are the right type and the right size, they would be a real bargain >> (a bag of 100 for $10.00). > >Geo: > >It has been my understanding that a CherryMax rivet is an acceptable >replacement for a AN rivet is most structural applications. I have used >them as a last resort in my RV-4 when bucking was extremely difficult or I >had really screwed up a normal AN rivet. The actually come in two sizes: >CR3212 (countersunk) and CR3213 (universal) are the same diameter as a -4 AN >rivet. The CR3242 (countersunk) and CR 3243 (universal) are 1/16" diameter >greater (good replacement for a really messed up -4 hole). They are >difficult to pull with a normal pop rivet tool, but can be done (a pneumatic >puller is great if you can find one to borrow. On the RV-4, I used >CherryMax rivets to attach the F-417 plate to the F-405 and F-406 bulkheads. > >I do not think the other Cherry rivets are structural at all. A good sourse >for CherryMax rivets a a very reasonable cost is Rich Industries at >800-240-2777 in AZ. > >Doug Weiler >MN Wing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Subject: running lean after vetterman install
Date: Apr 12, 2000
I have an intresting problem. My RV4 with Toole exhaust had normal leaning characteristics in flight ( at altitude pull mixture out - increase in rpm ). It also cracked like crazy. I got a vetterman crossover ( LYC 0320 E2D 150 hp). It now takes MUCH prime to start and has virtually no change in rpm when leaning at altitude. Cylinder head temps are low. Means too lean to me but I was not aware that much difference in the two. Any ideas? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge pins
Date: Apr 12, 2000
I just cut the supplied pin in half, and bent a handle on the ends that you mentioned. To secure it to the firewall, you can use the same method that is recommended for securing the side hinges. Just a piece of hinge cut and riveted on the firewall. If you leave some distance after the hinge before you make your bend, there will be enough slack in that smaller hinge pin to lift up and out. If I remember correctly, the length of the "handle" of the pin was about 4" or so. FWIW, many builders have had good luck with hinge pins across the top. I personally can not seem to get the hinge all the way in, so I will be installing camlocs along the top. But this is not a hinge vs camlocs thread, just my $.02. Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona http://members.home.net/rv8er ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 2:53 PM Subject: RV-List: Cowl hinge pins > > I am getting set to drill the hinge for the top cowl on my RV-6A. This is > the hinge that fastens the cowl to the firewall. I don't see any info in > the manual about how long or short to make the pins. I also don't see any > info about how to secure those top pins. How did the rest of you do it? > > Also, I need the grip of steel to move those pins right now. I cannot > imagine how I can get them in or out without chucking them in a drill. That > means that I will need to bend some sort of handle in the free ends to > provide a good grip. What do you experience builders advise? > > Steve Soule > Huntington, VT > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge pins
In a message dated 4/12/00 3:45:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes: << I am getting set to drill the hinge for the top cowl on my RV-6A. This is the hinge that fastens the cowl to the firewall. I don't see any info in the manual about how long or short to make the pins. I also don't see any info about how to secure those top pins. How did the rest of you do it?>> I would not recommend that you use hinges for the top rear cowling attachment. IMO build a ledge on the fuselage and use Camlocs every 4". -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-6 Bottom Cowl Attachment
In a message dated 4/12/00 4:04:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time, KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes: << Over the years, there has been much back and forth on how (un)satisfactory hinges are on the bottom cowl/bottom fuselage skin attachment on the RV-6. ...I took the opportunity to look at this on RV-6's and 6A's at Sun and Fun...the ones I looked at (probably 15 or so), EVERY airplane had damage in that area, or showed evidence of a repair...I'm going with screws in this area from the start. >> IMO if you want to make the hinges work forever, use stainless steel hinges. McMaster-Carr has them. You can lighten them somewhat by punching out holes in them. This promotes better epoxy bonding to the cowling also. I would only use hinges for the straight sections and Camlocs for the top over. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2000
Subject: Re: RV6A
I had a problem just like this one and when I did a tach check I found that the tach was not correct and the static and take off roll rpm was just about the same when checked with the electronic tach check. You may want to confirm your findings with a different tach or something on this order. Pat Patterson 80536 RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Polenske, Eugene O" <Eugene.Polenske(at)PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: beginners questions
Date: Apr 12, 2000
I attended Arlington last year and I got bit by the RV bug. I just knew I had to have one. My wife and I spent some time with Von Alexander and his RV-8 About three weeks ago my wife and I went to Vans and met Bill Benedict. He took Renee and myself for the famous $30,000 - $60,000 ride, when we left there was an empenage kit in the back of my truck. Shortly after that we heard the terrible news about Bill and Jeremy. Needless to say my wife is a little nervous about my project. I want to build a safe aircraft. I don't have any sheet metal experience and I have a few questions I would like to ask and a lot that I don't even know to ask. Are there any aircraft sheet metal books that you can recommend or any other books that would be beneficial to me? There are several listed in the manual are these the best? Where can I get this type of books? I don't want to make stupid mistakes. I do have Tony Bengelis 4 books, I also have the Orndorff emp. tapes. I would appreciate any info. you can give me. Thanks, Gene Polenske do note archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: El Paso Visit
Please excuse my bluntness but who is Terry Cole? Thanks Rollie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: VP4SkyDoc(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: R
In a message dated 4/10/2000 6:37:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rterhaar(at)8j.net writes: > I e-mailed Garmin technical support and got a message back. The tech > said, "The GMA340 has a 500 Ohm input for the CD and I suspect the CD > Player you have is a 4 Ohm output which is much higher output power than > what the GMA340 can handle. You might be lucky though because you are > using the Floating Ground Adapter, pure power may not have made it to > the GMA340. I am not familiar with the CD player you are using so I > don't know if that adapter is required or not. The input on the GMA 340 > was designed to work with a "Walkman" style radio/CD/Tape player output. > You will have to make up some sort of impedence matching network in > order to use that CD Player with the GMA340." > That's helpful information but I haven't a clue how to do that. I am > pretty green at electronics though most everything else I have done on > my panel works well now. So I'm learning. > I have searched the archives and know that this general topic has come > up before, but I could not find anything that solves my problem exactly. > I am hoping that one of the more electronic savey readers of this list > will be able to make sense of this and can help me get this working > properly. > > Feel free to respond to me directly off list or on list. > > Ron Terhaar > RV6A-Rocket Tropicana > Won One For Romeo Tango > 90% done, 90% t Ron, I suggest you go get a $50 walkman style CD player and install that. I will weigh far less than the car stereo! Dave Leonard Do no archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: beginners questions
"Polenske, Eugene O" wrote: > Needless to say my wife is a little nervous about my project. I want to build a safe aircraft. > I don't have any sheet metal experience and I have a few questions I would like to ask and a lot that I don't even know to ask. Gene, I didn't have any sheetmetal experience before I started. I'm working on my finish kit now. I'm confident I'm building a safe aircraft. FWIW, I have the self-imposed duty of maintaining the "Bunny's Guide to RV Building", a web site which documents what I've learnt during construction of my RV-6, plus useful stuff culled from the RV-list. Although it is about the RV-6, you'll find that many things are common to the RV-8. You can find the site at http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm Incidentally, given that up to 87% of accidents are due to pilot error, it would be better to be a 20% safer pilot than to fly a *perfectly* safe airplane. Note also that, beyond the test flight period, homebuilt aircraft are about as safe as factory-built aircraft. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: RV8 flap brace
Date: Apr 13, 2000
I have had this problem as well. Vans now have a flap brace that really fits, call them it's free of charge Trevor mills 80605 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HAROLD1339(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: Garmin 295
The lowest I saw was 1425.00. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: W407 Hole spacing
Date: Apr 13, 2000
I moved mine down uniformly to keep centered from where the taper started to the tip, if I recall correctly. Steve Soule Huntington, VT RV-6A cowl -----Original Message----- Drawing 14 (rear spar) shows the spacing for the holes to be drilled in the 407 flange strips. The holes are 3/4 from the bottom edge of the 407 (for the bottom flange), which is fine until the taper starts, then the rivets run right off the edge. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: RV6A
Date: Apr 13, 2000
>wood prop. The problem is on static run up he gets 2450 rpm and on take off >roll he only gets 2200 rpm. Make sure you know the tach is right before diagnosing this as a propellor problem. Gary Fesenbek RV6A Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-X
bob i asked van personally at the sun n fun, about using the 9 fuse with the 6 wings, and if there would be any more developement in the 6 kit besides the vert.stab and rudder, he said no. as of right now, there is no parts the same on the 6 & 9 fuse. it would be impossible to bolt on the 6 wings to the 9 fuse, . any further development kits will be done on the same scale as the 9 was done, all prepunched and matched holes, fluted ribs. scott tampa finishing looking for engine and prop ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: beginners questions
> Needless to say my wife is a little nervous about my project. I want > to build a safe aircraft. > I don't have any sheet metal experience and I have a few questions I > would like to ask and a lot that I don't even know to ask. > Are there any aircraft sheet metal books that you can recommend or > any other books that would be beneficial to me? There are several > listed in the manual are these the best? Where can I get this type > of books? I don't want to make stupid mistakes. Face it - you're going to make stupid mistakes. I'm still fixing my last one! :) You just kick yourself, swear not to do it again and drive on. If you want to spend money wisely before building, find a builder's class - I attended George O's weekend class at Hicks. Didn't know squat about metal working then, but I just put my wings in their storage rack last week and am now building up the firewall. Follow the plans and you will end up with a safe aircraft. How you drive it, now, that's up to you! Good luck! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage (been waiting so long to write that!) Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: Lycoming dip stick tube
I counted three lengths of Lycoming dip/stick tube assembles. I needed the medium length & had a small and large assembly(oil stick & tube that screws into the block). I took the large tube assembly and purchased a PVC coupler & PVC cement at the hardware store & cut my tube assembly to fit. Worked great. I calibrated the stick like others did who answered this post. The PVC cement is actually a solvent that melts (its not strictly a glue) the PVC and bonds the PVC together. I cleaned the Lycoming shaft down to plastic, kept it smooth and bonded my coupler to the cut dowm Lycoming tube. I removed the like amount from the oil stick too. One could purchase a med. length shaft but the junk yards wanted my first born( $125.00) for the part..... zilik(at)bewellnet.com on 04/12/2000 05:06:08 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil quantity John Lee wrote: > > I have and Aerosport IO 360-B1B engine. It came with an unmarked oil > stick and I assume that I need to mark it myself. Yes, this is correct. > Knowing that the > engine should be at 8qts when full, my question is; do I allow for > spin-on oil filter and oil cooler capacity when filling? No, the dipstick is calibrated to the size of the sump alone. I cheated and borrowed my hangar mates new dipstick and marked mine from his. I have 4, 6 and 8 qt marks. I checked when filling my Bart Lalonde special and it is correct. > Also, has > anyone put an extension on the dip stick tube? Mine seems awfully > short. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: W407 Hole spacing
Jeff, I looked at the drawing, put a straight edge on the rivets and noted where the angle was set, marked it on my flanges, and hey presto it was correct. David Roseblade UAE RV-6, deburring and fluting ribs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Point Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 6:44 AM Subject: RV-List: W407 Hole spacing Listers, here is the first snag on my new wing kit: Drawing 14 (rear spar) shows the spacing for the holes to be drilled in the 407 flange strips. The holes are 3/4 from the bottom edge of the 407 (for the bottom flange), which is fine until the taper starts, then the rivets run right off the edge. Obviously the rivet line needs to be either angled at some point or moved down uniformly due to the taper, but the plans don't say where to start this. A logical place would appear to be after the 5th wing walk rib, since the last seven rivets don't attach to anything else, but I wanted to confirm this before committing drill press to metal. What have y'all done here? Jeff Point jpoint(at)execpc.com -6 wings Milwaukee, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Prop me up..
Hi Jim; I stopped by the Van's tent at Sun N Fun and signed the book dedicated to Bill Benedict. It was a very somber place. He was one of the good guys. On an up note, RV products and goodies abounded at SNF including three different electronic ignitions, aluminum V8 engines for -8's and many props. I stopped at the booth for the "autoprop" which automatically adjusts pitch based on RPM and flight loads. It uses a cool spinner with little fins on it that allow the spinner to spin independently of the hub and measure rpm. The blades are aluminum and the whole thing is first class. It is already certified on C-172's and I volunteered to test it on my RV, if I could get one. Yeah, I know, I love my wood prop too, until it starts raining. I'll let you know the diff with heavy metal out front... Smokey --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James, > Maj, AF/XOOT" > > Smokey, > > I may be. My engine is a 150, or maybe a 160, I > don't know for sure. Let > me know the bogey dope on it! I sure love my nice, > refinished Ed Sterba > prop! For you Matronics folks, Mr Ed Sterba > re-finished my gravel chipped > wood prop FOR FREE!!! He said once you buy a prop > from him, he stands > behind it. Very impressive!!! And Garmin 195 > rocks! > > Jj > > -----Original Message----- > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com] > Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 2:34 PM > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy > Brace... > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray > > > Dude; > > I was there! Flew the Tcraft down from NW FL. > Bought > a headset and picked up alot of gouge on stuff. I > also > have bought a Bernie Warnke prop and a metal > sensenich > with spinner from a guy in oregon. If you are still > interested in heavy metal up front, let me know. I > wanted the Warnke. Gotta go fly the viper > again...our > new Litening Targeting pods rule dude...See ya. > > Smokey > > --- "Johnson, James, Maj, AF/XOOT" > wrote: > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Johnson, James, > > Maj, AF/XOOT" > > > > Smokey, > > > > I was at Sun-N-Fun, sorry I missed you!!! I > bought > > a pin like yours and am > > installing it this next weekend. Also got a > Garmin > > 195 GPS at SnF, $695!!!! > > Flew home with it. I had triple redundant > > navigation, GPS 195/90 and Loran! > > Beats anything I flew in jets with!!! > > > > Jj > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: rob ray [mailto:smokyray(at)yahoo.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 6:47 PM > > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 > Canopy > > Brace... > > > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray > > > > > > JJ; > > > > The canopy restraining system I use on my -4 is a > > pin > > through the roll-bar that extends through the > canopy > > frame via plastic bushings in the rollbar. It is > > vittually impossible to blow open or further > closed. > > Drop me a line sometime and I'll give you the > > dimensions. > > > > Rob Ray > > smokyray(at)yahoo.com > > > > --- "j.j. banks " wrote: > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: "j.j. banks " > > > > > > > > > fine pictures ,matt . I built one similar to > that > > in > > > 1987 just beware that > > > you should not walk away from your rv with it > > > propped open cause some idiot > > > atan airshow can blow it away when he fires up > his > > > p51 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> > > > To: > > > Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 3:40 PM > > > Subject: RV4-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy > > > Brace... > > > > > > > > > > --> RV4-List message posted by: > > > dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) > > > > > > > > > > > > Hello RV-4 Builders, > > > > > > > > Over the years I have kept my eye out for a > nice > > > canopy brace > > > > installation on an RV-4 in hopes of doing > > > something nice on mine when the > > > > time came. A couple of years ago I had a > > > conversation with another List > > > > member and RV-4 builder about a system that he > > had > > > used. He was kind > > > > enough to procure a pneumatic strut for me and > > > this weekend I set to > > > > coming up with a way to install it. I am > *very* > > > pleased with the way it > > > > came out and best of all it is very > unobtrusive > > in > > > general and > > > > specifically to the rear passenger. While > there > > > isn't really enough > > > > pressure in the strut to significantly slow > the > > > decent of the canopy, it > > > > works very well at holding it in the open > > > position. I've included a > > > > number of picture links below. The last shot > is > > a > > > closeup of the tag on > > > > the strut in case you wish to locate one > > yourself. > > > Thanks again to my > > > > friend from CO for the perfect strut and for > the > > > idea (he asked to > > > > remain anonymous.) Let me know if you have > any > > > questions. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace1.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace2.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace3.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace4.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace5.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace6.jpg > > > > > > > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > > > > > Matt Dralle > > > > RV-4 #1763, N442RV To Be... > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | > > > Livermore | CA | 94551 > > > > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | > === message truncated == Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Electronic Ignition For Sale
I have a Light speed electronic ignition system for sale. For details of reason for selling and what is included. Priced at half retail. Denny harje(at)proaxis.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: RV-6A Sliding Canopy
Date: Apr 13, 2000
> When you finally rivet these in place should I use RTV or some kind of > sealant to keep out the rain? Don't use RTV. I'd recommend proseal or Lexel (H/W store sealant). Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Gyros
Date: Apr 13, 2000
> I requested info from ACS about the $995 electric attitude gyros that they > have begun to carry. Today I received a photocopy of some information on at. > There is no mention of where it is made or if it is IFR certified. Just a small nit -- this myth of IFR certification for all different instruments and radios seems to persist.... for most instruments and radios there is no such thing as "IFR certification". TSO compliance (a testing standard) is what you're looking for but even that is not strictly required to use the thing for IFR. Probably should, but not in the US regs. Sorry to nit pick. Just had to get that off my chest :-) Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete & Delee Bodie" <pjbodie(at)home.com>
Subject: Static port
Date: Apr 13, 2000
I am trying to figure out how to install Van's pop rivet static port. Should the mandrel be driven from the rivet and then the rivet sealed to the tubing and skin or should I pull the rivet then drive the mandrel out. If I pull the river there isn't much of the rivet left to attach the tubing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition For Sale
Date: Dec 30, 1999
Denny If is not already sold, can you tell me more? Bob Busick -----Original Message----- From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> Date: Thursday, April 13, 2000 6:04 AM Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition For Sale > >I have a Light speed electronic ignition system for sale. >For details of reason for selling and what is included. >Priced at half retail. > Denny >harje(at)proaxis.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: EBay Auction
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Shopping the electronic auction seems to be very interesting. If there is any body who is starting their panel and hasn't taken a look I suggest you do. The following is an item that Larry Bowen found, it appears to be an exceptional deal. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=306323284 > There are many other items of interest like Stormscopes going for under a grand. Norman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: Prop me up..
Give us more info on the aluminum V8's... -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rob ray Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 8:54 AM Subject: RV-List: Prop me up.. On an up note, RV products and goodies abounded at SNF including three different electronic ignitions, aluminum V8 engines for -8's and many props. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Static port
Date: Apr 13, 2000
As near as I can see the little nub that is left after you drive the mandrel out is what you are supposed to connect the tubing to. At least that's what I did on mine. It hasn't flown out of the shop, but it is still in place even after I have thumped around and crawled around back there. I decided I would trust the designer on this one even though it looks pretty cheesy. Steve Soule Huntington, VT RV-6A Cowl -----Original Message----- I am trying to figure out how to install Van's pop rivet static port. Should the mandrel be driven from the rivet and then the rivet sealed to the tubing and skin or should I pull the rivet then drive the mandrel out. If I pull the river there isn't much of the rivet left to attach the tubing. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: hal kempthorne <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Prop me up..
Bill VonDane wrote: > Give us more info on the aluminum V8's... (seen at S&F) I didn't get to Sun and Fun but I can make a guess about aluminum V8 engines for the RV8. **IF** these are the old Rover/Buick 215 CID V8s, be advised that they are heavier than the newer, much superior, GM 270 CID cast iron V6 engines several have put in their RV6's. **IF** they are aluminum GM V8's such as Donovan and others, they are probably too heavy to be right for the RV8. People have installed them in Bonanzas, I hear. I believe the new Corvettes have all aluminum V8s producing 300 hp out of 350 CID. However, I hope I'm full of crap and there is something new and wonderful available! hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: AL V-8's (was Prop me up..)
Date: Apr 13, 2000
AL V-8's? I didn't see those. Who is making them? Where can I find more info? Larry Bowen RV-8 Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rob ray > Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 10:54 AM > To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Prop me up.. > > > On an up note, RV products and goodies abounded at > SNF including three different electronic ignitions, > aluminum V8 engines for -8's and many props. I stopped ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: beginners questions
Get EAA's four Tony Benglaias (I murdered the spelling on his name). They are basically the bibles--good initial reading and for reference. Get Elect's bob's book too. You will never regret purchasing these books.....unless you loan them out and never get them back....... grobdriver(at)yahoo.com on 04/13/2000 09:26:16 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: beginners questions > Needless to say my wife is a little nervous about my project. I want > to build a safe aircraft. > I don't have any sheet metal experience and I have a few questions I > would like to ask and a lot that I don't even know to ask. > Are there any aircraft sheet metal books that you can recommend or > any other books that would be beneficial to me? There are several > listed in the manual are these the best? Where can I get this type > of books? I don't want to make stupid mistakes. Face it - you're going to make stupid mistakes. I'm still fixing my last one! :) You just kick yourself, swear not to do it again and drive on. If you want to spend money wisely before building, find a builder's class - I attended George O's weekend class at Hicks. Didn't know squat about metal working then, but I just put my wings in their storage rack last week and am now building up the firewall. Follow the plans and you will end up with a safe aircraft. How you drive it, now, that's up to you! Good luck! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage (been waiting so long to write that!) Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun time to climb attempt
Date: Apr 13, 2000
i talked to bruce at SnF yesterday, he said he just juiced it a little to much. (to much nitrous, for the racing impared) he said, " you push them as hard as we do and sometimes they break" he also said that they will try again at OSH. R. Burns RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524 > > > > He didn't break the old record. > > AOPA reports Engine failure foils Bohannon's record > attempt. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Static port
Date: Apr 13, 2000
I pulled the rivet, drove out the mandrel and put the tubing on what was left of the rivet body. I then built a pyramid of RTV around the juncture from the skin tapering out to the tubing. Fran Malczynski RV-6 (finish) Olcott, NY -----Original Message----- From: Pete & Delee Bodie <pjbodie(at)home.com> Date: Thursday, April 13, 2000 12:11 PM Subject: RV-List: Static port > >I am trying to figure out how to install Van's pop rivet static port. Should >the mandrel be driven from the rivet and then the rivet sealed to the tubing >and skin or should I pull the rivet then drive the mandrel out. If I pull >the river there isn't much of the rivet left to attach the tubing. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: Tim Houle <thoule(at)kneehill.com>
Subject: AL V-8's (was Prop me up..)
you'd have some questions to answer > >AL V-8's? I didn't see those. Who is making them? Where can I find more >info? > >Larry Bowen >RV-8 >Larry(at)BowenAero.com >http://BowenAero.com > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of rob ray >> Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 10:54 AM >> To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: Prop me up.. >> >> > >> On an up note, RV products and goodies abounded at >> SNF including three different electronic ignitions, >> aluminum V8 engines for -8's and many props. I stopped > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: Garmin 295
I attended SNF today and bought the 295 from Gulf Coast Avionics for $1299, no tax, and walked away with it. Len Leggette, RV-8A North Carolina (N901LL res) Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: RST Engineering Marker Beacon
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Listers, I bought a Marker Beacon from RST Engineering in January. I assembled it and sent it back for Calibration. After a few calls to check on it's progress I received it back approximately six weeks later. I installed it and it didn't work. I talked to Jim Weir about what could be wrong with it. He indicated that the boat antenna I was using needed to be tuned to the aircraft for the marker beacon to work. I called Commant and talked to Mike Peterzinski engineer for Commant ) He informed me there was no adjustment I should make to the antenna. ( He fly's a RV-6 IFR , seems like a great guy ) I bought a Terra 23 Marker Beacon and installed it before I went to Sun-n-Fun. The thing drove me crazy passing over airports on the way. It worked great and the high sensitivity switch allowed the marker beacon to work at 6500 ft. ( the altitude I was flying ) I e-mailed Jim Weir and told him that the Terra worked right out of the box. This was last week. I haven't heard from him, so I figured I received a $150 dollar soldering lesson. Jim Weir seems like a real nice guy but it's still $150 dollars down the drain. I hesitated in writing this. It's really not sour grapes, it's information that I wish I'd had before ordering RST's Marker Beacon. Jim Nolan N444JN ARCHIVE ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace...
From: "Glenn Bridges" <robwil(at)nlamerica.com>
matt... i am building a 4 but i live a long way from the company that makes the brace. does anyone know where one can find a similar one on the market glenn ---------- >From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) >To: rv4-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Finally, A Decent RV-4 Canopy Brace... >Date: Tue, Apr 11, 2000, 3:40 PM > > > >Hello RV-4 Builders, > >Over the years I have kept my eye out for a nice canopy brace >installation on an RV-4 in hopes of doing something nice on mine when the >time came. A couple of years ago I had a conversation with another List >member and RV-4 builder about a system that he had used. He was kind >enough to procure a pneumatic strut for me and this weekend I set to >coming up with a way to install it. I am *very* pleased with the way it >came out and best of all it is very unobtrusive in general and >specifically to the rear passenger. While there isn't really enough >pressure in the strut to significantly slow the decent of the canopy, it >works very well at holding it in the open position. I've included a >number of picture links below. The last shot is a closeup of the tag on >the strut in case you wish to locate one yourself. Thanks again to my >friend from CO for the perfect strut and for the idea (he asked to >remain anonymous.) Let me know if you have any questions. > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace1.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace2.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace3.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace4.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace5.jpg > > http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/CanopyBrace6.jpg > > >Best regards, > >Matt Dralle >RV-4 #1763, N442RV To Be... > > >-- > >Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: W407 Hole spacing
Date: Apr 13, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 9:43 PM Subject: RV-List: W407 Hole spacing > > Listers, here is the first snag on my new wing kit: > > Drawing 14 (rear spar) shows the spacing for the holes to be drilled in > the 407 flange strips. The holes are 3/4 from the bottom edge of the > 407 (for the bottom flange), which is fine until the taper starts, then > the rivets run right off the edge. Obviously the rivet line needs to be > either angled at some point or moved down uniformly due to the taper, > but the plans don't say where to start this. A logical place would > appear to be after the 5th wing walk rib, since the last seven rivets > don't attach to anything else, but I wanted to confirm this before > committing drill press to metal. What have y'all done here? > > Jeff Point > jpoint(at)execpc.com > -6 wings > Milwaukee, WI Jeff, You are correct. The rivet line will veer towards the spar flange a little. Don't taper the flange strips until you have drilled the holes in them. This way you insure edge distance on the flanges is ok. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert L. Smith II" <rls2(at)shreve.net>
Subject: Fw: FOR SALE: RV-6A Empennage and Wing Kits
Date: Apr 13, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Robert L. Smith II <rls2(at)shreve.net> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2000 6:56 PM Subject: FOR SALE: RV-6A Empennage and Wing Kits > I'm moving soon so I've priced these kits to move fast. I'm offering both > kits for one low price of $5000. This price also includes the tools ! The > empennage kit is complete and the wing kit is 40% complete. All parts are > primed and workmanship is excellent. A must see. If interested give me a > call at (318)688-5588. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert L. Smith II" <rls2(at)shreve.net>
Subject: FOR SALE: RV-6A Empennage and Wing Kits
Date: Apr 13, 2000
I'm moving soon so I've priced these kits to move fast. I'm offering both kits for one low price of $5000. This price also includes the tools ! The empennage kit is complete and the wing kit is 40% complete. All parts are primed and the workmanship is excellent. A must see ! If interested give me a e-mail or call me at (318) 949-4636. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv660wm(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Tip on preoiling new engine on first start
Started my new O-320-D1A engine for the first time today in RV6A N60WM. One friend had brought over a 12 volt pump to hook to the pressure sensor line to fill the sump and to get oil everwhere in the engine. The pump had not been used in awhile and would not pump. Another friend said just fill the engine with oil,pull the bottom spark plugs and spin the engine by hand and watch the oil pressure gage. Sure enough you can get 40 psi oil pressure by spinning the prop by hand. The engine fired almost immediately on start up and the oil pressure jumped up within seconds of the start. Everthing was cool, I ran the engine without the cowl, but with the plenum and I ran it chocked at 2000 RPM for about 10 minutes after it warmed up before the cylinder head temperature reached 350 degrees Fahrenheit. No leaks no known problems!! Bernie Kerr, 6A N60WM, about ready for inspection, SE Fla ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: running lean after vetterman install
Is it possible that in installing the new exhaust, the mixture cable has moved a bit and is always leaning the mixture? that would cause the problems you describe. Brian Eckstein 6A finishing....... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: Cowl hinge pins
On 12 Apr 00, at 17:53, Stephen J. Soule wrote: > I also don't see any > info about how to secure those top pins. How did the rest of you do it? > That means that I will need to bend some sort of handle in the free ends > to provide a good grip. What do you experience builders advise? Don't forget that the hinge pin across the top is an undersize pin. I bent a handle in each of the two top and two side hinge pins so I'd have something to grip. I riveted a little metal "V" shaped lip inside the cowl to hold the hinge pin handle after the hinge was inserted. Like the instructions say, it gets much easier to remove and install the pins after a few flight hours. That doesn't help much while you are in the not-yet-flying period, however. Be sure to line up the hinge pieces as much as possible before drilling/riveting to minimize stress. ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Re: Garmin 295/Control Vision
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
---------- >From: Lenleg(at)aol.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 295 >Date: Thu, Apr 13, 2000, 3:43 PM > > > I attended SNF today and bought the 295 from Gulf Coast Avionics for $1299, > no tax, and walked away with it. > > Len Leggette, RV-8A > North Carolina (N901LL res) > Fuselage > I am really impressed with the Garmin unit, but the unit I really like is the one from Control Vision. Anyone bought one of these yet? http://www.controlvision.com/map.htm looks neat and surely will be upgradable with other functions available too. I just bought a Lowrance 100, which I like, but for $350 more that looks pretty good. -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Curley" <mcurley(at)cass.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Gyros
Date: Apr 13, 2000
> > I requested info from ACS about the $995 electric attitude gyros that they > > have begun to carry. Today I received a photocopy of some information on > at. > > There is no mention of where it is made or if it is IFR certified. > > Just a small nit -- this myth of IFR certification for all different > instruments and radios seems to persist.... for most instruments and radios > there is no such thing as "IFR certification". TSO compliance (a testing > standard) is what you're looking for but even that is not strictly required > to use the thing for IFR. Probably should, but not in the US regs. > > Why is it then that the GPS untis have to be IFR Certified? Mark RV-6 Wanabe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Static port
Date: Apr 13, 2000
You install the rivet as usual, then drive the mandril out the back. ----- Original Message ----- From: Pete & Delee Bodie <pjbodie(at)home.com> Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 8:53 AM Subject: RV-List: Static port > > I am trying to figure out how to install Van's pop rivet static port. Should > the mandrel be driven from the rivet and then the rivet sealed to the tubing > and skin or should I pull the rivet then drive the mandrel out. If I pull > the river there isn't much of the rivet left to attach the tubing. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RST Engineering Marker Beacon
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Congradulations! You have joined the RST club. I have a mostly completed intercom, that has been short several parts since January. Dick White RV-8QB panel Newport, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Nolan <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 2:02 PM Subject: RV-List: RST Engineering Marker Beacon > > Listers, > I bought a Marker Beacon from RST Engineering in January. I assembled > it and sent it back for Calibration. After a few calls to check on it's > progress I received it back approximately six weeks later. I installed it > and it didn't work. > I talked to Jim Weir about what could be wrong with it. He indicated > that > the boat antenna I was using needed to be tuned to the aircraft for the > marker beacon to work. I called Commant and talked to Mike Peterzinski > engineer for Commant ) He informed me there was no adjustment I should make > to the antenna. ( He fly's a RV-6 IFR , seems like a great guy ) > I bought a Terra 23 Marker Beacon and installed it before I went to > Sun-n-Fun. The thing drove me crazy passing over airports on the way. It > worked great and the high sensitivity switch allowed the marker beacon to > work at 6500 ft. ( the altitude I was flying ) > I e-mailed Jim Weir and told him that the Terra worked right out of > the box. This was last week. I haven't heard from him, so I figured I > received a $150 dollar soldering lesson. > Jim Weir seems like a real nice guy but it's still $150 dollars down > the drain. > I hesitated in writing this. It's really not sour grapes, it's > information that I wish I'd had before ordering RST's Marker Beacon. > Jim Nolan > N444JN > ARCHIVE > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8 N94BD update
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Listers, I finally added the gear leg covers to my -8 today. They are not completely done, as I still have to mold the intersection fairings when I get bored one day and just have to go slop some fiberglass and resin on the plane. HAH! Yeah right. Anyway, a quick trip up to 8,000' for a two way GPS run showed a speed increase of about 3-5mph over the bare steel gear legs with wheel pants. This was at 2700rpm, with the Sensenich 72FM8-83" pitch prop and Lyc O-360 180hp. Weight was about 1500 lbs. at the time. It was bumpy, but I'm pretty sure the wheel pants and the gear leg covers yield 12 to 15mph speed bonus over bare wheels and gear legs. So, full throttle speed is now up to 200mph. I wonder what the paint job might yield? Sure, it weighs something, but it smoothes the skin surface too. Time will tell! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 73 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVHI(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 13, 2000
Subject: Garmin GNS 530 ------ free simulator download
If anyone is interested in the Garmin GNS 530, there is a download at the following Garmin website , that will setup a P/C training version of the 530. It's about a 13 meg download. http://www.garmin.com/products/gns530/index.html L.Adamson RV6A finish ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Cowling - CAMLOCK question
Date: Apr 13, 2000
We have decided to go with Camlock "2700" cs fastners for our cowling. Question: How many do we need - for entire cowling? Question: Which "Dash Number" have you used? Thanks in advance, Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Dave's at S-N-F) Niantic, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Re: Sun-n-Fun time to climb attempt
Date: Apr 14, 2000
> The following was my response to the "Time to Climb" question. It "bounced" as there was a slight change in my email. Hopefully it makes it through this time. James > As I was about to leave Sun-N-Fun, I got stopped in line near the runway and got to see > him take off ... near VERTICAL!!!! > > I was GREAT! > > But then the sad part ... A few minutes later the sad news " ... clear the > runway, we have a potential emergency ..." > > Bruce then made a "shuttle-style" landing. NO POWER!!! > > Something quit up there somewhere between 5000 and 10,000 feet, I think. > > Now the GREAT news ... the landing looked perfect and Bruce taxied off ala Bob > Hoover with that big three blade prop standing still. > > Don't know what gave way but I did note that it seemed to take longer that I > would have thought he would have wanted in order for him to be goven clearance > to take-off ("taxi into position and hold"). Rememeber, a lot of vertical > airspace has to be cleared and I think Tampa Approach/Center(?) had to involved > as well. I do recall he was given a freqency to reach them on some time after > he took off. (I was monitoring the initial frquency he was on but did not > change over ...should have. > > James > > Had to cut SnF short due to impending (forecasted) bad weather back home. > ----- Original Message ----- From: <ENewton57(at)aol.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 9:08 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Sun-n-Fun time to climb attempt > > He didn't break the old record. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2000
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: RST Engineering Marker Beacon
Richard White wrote: > Congradulations! You have joined the RST club. I have a mostly completed > intercom, that has been short several parts since January. My experience with RST has been good. I built their audio panel, and was very pleased with the parts, instructions, and the resulting piece of equipment. Assistance from Jim Weir via email was prompt and accurate. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 13, 2000
From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 295/Control Vision
I bought the Control Vision software, but I don't have anything to report so far because I don't yet have the Casio E-100 PDA that they recommend for it. I'm such a cheapskate I just couldn't bring myself to pay the $450 plus tax retail price for it. At any given time, there are quite a few of them for sale on Ebay, generally selling for $320-$340. I am hoping to close a deal on one in the next few days. The GPS they recommend is the Garmin 35 Trakpak. It's actually just a GPS antenna and 12 channel receiver, no display, it looks just like a computer mouse. Jay Humbard at Control Vision says it locks on to the satellites almost instantly, and is sensitive enough that if you move the yoke or stick at all, it will register as little as a 1-2 degree course change a second later. You can order it directly from Garmin for $150. The '77 Cessna 172 that I rent has an unused 3" round instrument cutout right next to the control yoke where I can stick the PDA with some Velcro. The Garmin 35 will sit up on the glareshield. As soon as I have the rest of the hardware and have a chance to fly with it, I will report on it to the List. Jay had some other really interesting things to say. If, like me, you are just getting started on your project, and you won't be flying it for at least two years, don't buy any avionics yet. Jay said that within the next one or two years, we will see a new type of computer on the market that will be approx. 5-6" high, 6-7" wide, about 1/2-1" thick, and mostly screen, with the screen measuring about 5" by 6". They will have processor speeds and RAM comparable to our desktop computers. They will sell for well under $1000. Control Vision is already working on software for these that will make it a complete multi-function display for aircraft. The software will probably sell for under $300. They are even looking into putting all engine functions on the MFD, and possibly even a flight instrument display similar to the ArcAngel system (of course, you would need the attitude sensors in the wingtips, etc). Their goal is a complete glass cockpit for homebuilts at a dirt cheap price. I hope they succeed. While it's unlikely that the FAA would ever approve a Windows based computer for IFR, it would be great for enroute navigation and greatly enhanced situational awareness in most circumstances that I can think of. George True Shelby Smith wrote: > > ---------- > >From: Lenleg(at)aol.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 295 > >Date: Thu, Apr 13, 2000, 3:43 PM > > > > > > > I attended SNF today and bought the 295 from Gulf Coast Avionics for $1299, > > no tax, and walked away with it. > > > > Len Leggette, RV-8A > > North Carolina (N901LL res) > > Fuselage > > > > I am really impressed with the Garmin unit, but the unit I really like is > the one from Control Vision. Anyone bought one of these yet? > > http://www.controlvision.com/map.htm > > looks neat and surely will be upgradable with other functions available too. > > I just bought a Lowrance 100, which I like, but for $350 more that looks > pretty good. > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au
Date: Apr 14, 2000
Subject: Re: Static port
I made a small bracket of .016 which is held in place by the pulled rivet. I laced the tube to the bracket to hold it and sealed the whole schmiel with RTV. Peter Bennett RV6 Sydney Australia > > I am trying to figure out how to install Van's pop rivet static port. > Should the mandrel be driven from the rivet and then the rivet sealed to > the tubing and skin or should I pull the rivet then drive the mandrel out. > If I pull the river there isn't much of the rivet left to attach the > tubing. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSivori(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 14, 2000
Subject: Re: Garmin 295
We got together and purchased 4 Garmin 295 from Eastern Avionics $1325.00 each and had them shipped home ( no Florida sales tax or New York sales tax ) Since the best price we got home was $1425.00 plus 8.5% sales tax we did ok.... BSivori @ Aol.COM 929RV ( Reserved ) N15035 Seneca 1 N442MM Cessan 421C Driver ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RST Engineering Marker Beacon
I have the RST Marker Beacon and Intercom (panel mount that they no longer market.) After 530 flying hour no problem. Easy to built and works as good as anything I could buy at a fraction of the cost. I also have one of their portable intercoms that is over 10 years old. It has always worked great. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Electric Gyros
Date: Apr 14, 2000
Some locations of your antenna feed harmonics to from the GPS to your comm or vis a versa creating problems I've been told. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Curley" <mcurley(at)cass.net> Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2000 8:53 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Gyros > > > > > I requested info from ACS about the $995 electric attitude gyros that > they > > > have begun to carry. Today I received a photocopy of some information on > > at. > > > There is no mention of where it is made or if it is IFR certified. > > > > Just a small nit -- this myth of IFR certification for all different > > instruments and radios seems to persist.... for most instruments and > radios > > there is no such thing as "IFR certification". TSO compliance (a testing > > standard) is what you're looking for but even that is not strictly > required > > to use the thing for IFR. Probably should, but not in the US regs. > > > > > > Why is it then that the GPS untis have to be IFR Certified? > > Mark > RV-6 Wanabe > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 14, 2000
Subject: Re: Garmin 295/Control Vision
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Thanks George for the excellent report Shelby Smith http://www.neatcars.com/ neatcars1(at)mindspring.com 615.726.3030 -- ---------- >From: George True <true(at)uswest.net> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 295/Control Vision >Date: Fri, Apr 14, 2000, 1:41 AM > > > I bought the Control Vision software, but I don't have anything to report so far > because I don't yet have the Casio E-100 PDA that they recommend for it. I'm > such a cheapskate I just couldn't bring myself to pay the $450 plus tax retail > price for it. At any given time, there are quite a few of them for sale on Ebay, > generally selling for $320-$340. I am hoping to close a deal on one in the next > few days. > > The GPS they recommend is the Garmin 35 Trakpak. It's actually just a GPS > antenna and 12 channel receiver, no display, it looks just like a computer > mouse. Jay Humbard at Control Vision says it locks on to the satellites almost > instantly, and is sensitive enough that if you move the yoke or stick at all, it > will register as little as a 1-2 degree course change a second later. You can > order it directly from Garmin for $150. > > The '77 Cessna 172 that I rent has an unused 3" round instrument cutout right > next to the control yoke where I can stick the PDA with some Velcro. The Garmin > 35 will sit up on the glareshield. As soon as I have the rest of the hardware


April 06, 2000 - April 14, 2000

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