RV-Archive.digest.vol-ik
April 28, 2000 - May 04, 2000
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bobdz" <bobdz(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal Stabilizer... |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lawrence J Greeno <greenrv(at)juno.com> |
Excellent point - in essence a living memorial.
>
> I also had subscribed to source-rv and of course i want my
> subsc. money
> to go to the memorial,----------but wouldn't it be wonderful if
> instead of
> ending Jeremys fine effort, it could be finished and maintained. All
> of us
> would benefit from it and what a great tribute to his idea. Is it
> possible
> for us [as a group] each contributing a small amount of time and
> effort to
> do such a thing? any comments???? Mike
> McGowan RV-4
>
>
>
>
>
Lawrence J. Greeno - greenrv(at)juno.com
24 Gilead Hill Road, N.Chili, NY 14514
716-594-0883
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: acro & gyros |
Most GA gyros are not affected by roll. Think about it. The heading
doesn't change much so the DG doesn't have to move and the face of the
AI just rolls, never having to swap ends.
Conversly the AI face only has one side so if you go over the top (or
bottom) the card has to do a flip-flop. Consequently they usually put
stops at +-80 deg. So when doing a loop, split S, etc. the AI will
follow you up to 80 deg up, stop, roll 180 deg when you are pure
vertical and then start tracking pitch again when you get to 80 deg nose
up on the other side (i.e. its against the stops for 20 deg of nose
movement). It repeats this when pure vertical nose down. Also at this
pure vertical point the heading changes 180 deg so the DG has some
catching up to do also. The difference is that the DG is is gymballed
in only 2 axis vs. 3 for the AI. The T&B is similar to the DG and is the
least effected of all the gyros.
Try doing acro on the gages with a safety pilot onboard. You'll see
some wierd stuff and all those demon unusual attitudes will become usual
after awhile.
mailsorter-101-12.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-f/ms.dwm.v7+dul2)
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: acro & gyros
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 21:54:38 PDT
>From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv list
>Subject: RV-List: acro & gyros
>Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 21:06:42 -0500
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I found a lot of info in the archives on this topic, but not this exact
>question.
>How long does it take for a non-cageable gyro to recover from a basic
>loop or roll?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
My AI gets pretty scrambled after a loop but comes back online within about
two minutes. A roll doesn't seem to disturb it at all, but I'm sure it won't
put up with it indefinitely. The DG tumbles during a steep turn but rides
out a full roll pretty well. Maybe it's just the fast rate of heading
change and G loading during a steep turn (like around 60 degrees bank or
more) that upsets it. A loop doesn't disturb it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
wishing I had made that quick disconnect tray for the gyros
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | The panel evolves |
Just completed another big step in the process. The panel is complete.
As I previously reported, I used Steve Davis, the "Panel Pilot" to help
me out, thanks to this list. I've really been thinking about the layout
for about 15 years as I've dreamt about brewing my own craft. Of course
as soon as the fuselage was able to hold me I sat in it to dream about
what it would be like. I started the paper-doll instrument routine
about a year ago and have fiddled around with it off and on. End result
was about 5 times saying "Hey, this is it." I finally decided on "the
panel" and drew it all out to scale and then went to Memphis to visit
Steve.
We (Steve doing the work, me lurking over his shoulder) drew it out on
Autocad and cut the clear plastic "practice" panel. (See his website at
www.panelcut(at)aol.com
for a description of the process)
We needed a few mods to make it work but basically it fit great. Also
added a lot of graphics to switch positions, limitations and other panel
type stuff. I looked at a bunch of Douglas/Boeing/Lockheed and bizjet
manufacturers for guidance. They spend thousands on human factor
design, why not copy it.
Well anyway, it was really fun watching all of that planning and
plotting come together as the CNC machine whirled away and cut out the
panel and overlay. The total actual cut time on the main panel was 45
min. as the spindle made 5 passes at incrementally deeper levels to cut
all the way through the new .090 panel. As with all parts of this
project there is much more to it than it appears at first blush and
Steve put in a good 2 days total to get the end product. His time will
obviously vary depending on the complexity of the project and the amount
of work done before the piece shows up so if you use Steve you may pay
more or less than another builder. He does his work via UPS but I found
it much easier to be there at the right hand of the "King". That's
Steve and Elvis since I was in Memphis.
Of course, being amateur-built friendly, Steve wants to take you to the
airport to see the local herd of planes. We only had time to ride in a
friends C-210 that has a Davis panel in it. He really made me jealous
by telling me about his ride in a local RV-8 that is on his website. I
think that when he completes his C-120 restoration that we may get him
to join our group. His first RV ride swayed him from the abyss of "the
other guys".
Thanks for your time. It's hard to stop rambling when a plan comes
together and I just wanted to let you know who helped me with that plan.
Joe "Traash" Waltz
RV-8 the "Traashcan"
N877TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: The panel evolves |
>>Just completed another big step in the process. The panel is complete.
Pictures man! Let's see some pictures.
If you have given this a year's worth of thought we would LOVE to see what that
has produced. I'm just like you, I like to ride along on someone else's coat
tails to take the benefit of their knowledge and experience. Why reinvent the
wheel, right?
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( just about to cut the panel )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
Right on Scott..
I have hundreds of pic's of completed RV's that I would contribute, mostly
-8's
but something for everyone. I also have printed out many tips through the
years
of the RV list that I have to contribute.
Doug Gardner -8A
Palm Harbor Fla
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com [mailto:ABAYMAN(at)aol.com]
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Source
john
i for one hate to see the RV source web site just disappear, Jeremy worked
to hard on that web site. there are a lot of computer talented rvers on this
list that should pick up the ball and run with it, hint hint Sam b. its
not
a matter of the 20 bucks, Jeremy was on to something grand, we should not
let
it go. i wouldn't know where to start, but to ask any on the list who has
the
talent and the time to fully carry out Jeremy's dream and finish the
website,
whatcha think guys
look at what Jeremy gave us, vans website, the best on the Internet.
just my thoughts
Scott
Tampa
6a tipsy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
OH, Yea... I'll second Eric's comments, This is one perfect -4, like he
say's, you can look at this plane all day long. Bill is a very patient
person, and a great inspiration.
I can't wait to see his -8 also, I'd like to have him look at my -8A for
suggestions.
Doug Gardner
-----Original Message-----
From: michael.snook(at)honeywell.com [mailto:michael.snook(at)honeywell.com]
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: N66WD for sale
SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
Hey John, I'll throw in my .02 worth here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 10:08:51 -0500 |
......experimenting with "rolls on a point" with my -4... while
inverted .... Each time I distinctly smell avgas.
...Can I can prevent it? ...... he attributed the fuel odor to gas tank
venting with the gas running down the line between the wing and fuselage
and the vapors coming in thru the flap actuator holes.
Can you prevent it? Not the way the RV's are currently designed.
Sure you can prevent it! Extend the hopelessly short vent lines to be 2 or
3 inches below the fuselage. That will prevent most of the problems. Yeah,
yeah, I hear you "but it's more drag and more weight." Yes. A little. If
that bothers you, don't change it. As for me the combination of acro and
strong gas fumes made me ill.
Works for RV-4's. Should work equally well on the other RV's too.
Or you can give up the negative g stuff. That also will work.
Fly safe!
Vince in Indiana
RV-4
HRII under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Any problem teflon taping the threads on the fittings that go into the
brake
cylinders?
Fran,
As an EAA tech counselor, instrument tech, and former Hughes Aircraft QC
inspector I have opinions about such things. Heck, who doesn't! :-)
I have strong opinions about teflon tape. You won't find a single piece of
it on my plane. It's much too easy to get bits of it where it doesn't
belong. Especially when you disassemble parts....then you get to pick all
the little bits out of the fittings so they don't head downstream later.
On a similar note: No silicone RTV on my gaskets either. It's for hurry-up
car repairs, not airplanes. When gaskets are set in place, the RTV can ooze
out inside the engine (or whatever) and later break loose and clog oil
passages, etc. It can even break things if it gets between gear teeth,
etc... where there's tight clearance.... something has to give.
NEVER use it around fuel as it will soften and eventually fall off or leak.
Use proseal on your airbox and most other places FWF, if you need a sealant.
What do I trust????? I prefer the old fashion "Aviation Form- a -gasket"
that you brush on for general work. Many fittings need only to be lubed
with hyd. fluid, oil, or whatever passes through the fitting when installed.
Whatever you choose, the important thing is to use it sparingly and not let
anything go where it doesn't belong.
Build safe, fly safe.
Vince
RV-4
HRII under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: The panel evolves |
>
>
> >>Just completed another big step in the process. The panel is complete.
>
>Pictures man! Let's see some pictures.
>
>If you have given this a year's worth of thought we would LOVE to see what
>that
>has produced. I'm just like you, I like to ride along on someone else's coat
>tails to take the benefit of their knowledge and experience. Why reinvent the
>wheel, right?
>
>Thx,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8AQ ( just about to cut the panel )
>N89JA (reserved)
Jim,
I can tell you this, whether you are doing a really simple day VFR panel
like mine or a much more involved panel (see Paul Besing's website) the
quality of workmanship that comes out of Steve Davis' shop cant be beat.
Using paper cutouts, or printed output from Panel Planner doesnt compare to
bolting all of your instruments into a plexi check panel, bolting the panel
into your airplane, and sitting in the pilots seat making airplane noises.
I changed my layout twice after installing the check panels in my -4 before
commiting to cutting metal.
As for the finished product, if you havent seen a reverse engraved panel
overlay you just cant appreciate what a finished professional look this
gives to your "homebuilt" airplane. Looks far better than any factory iron.
Before you commit to cutting any metal talk to Steve and look at the work
he does. Its worth every penny you'll pay for it.
If you'd like to see a picture or 2 of my basic day VFR panel done by
Steve Davis, contact me off list and I'll send it to you (I dont have a
website to post it to).
Mike Wills
RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | Lycoming O-235-N2C for sale |
Steve Steckler (not on the list) has an RV-9 engine for sale. He changed
projects and is building the RV-8.
Details: Lycoming O-235-N2C, 1690 SMOH by Mattituck, 2400 TBO, good
compressions, all accesories included. $6000.
Steve also has a new, never used, stainless steel exhaust system for the
Lycoming O-320-H2AD engine. Fits Cessna 172's. $400
Hope this can help someone. For more details contact Steve directly at
(812)867-6072
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | source-rv (long and technical) |
Listers,
I have been toying with the idea for the past few weeks since Jeremy's
untimely departure that it would be great to see the website go on and have
all funds contributed to the scholarship fund. By trade I am a Windows
software developer and have three projects going on right now, two of which
are web-based. Sometimes the last thing I want to do when I come home is
write more code after 8-10 hours, but I do it anyway out of love of doing it
when changing diapers and finishing my -6 don't take precedence.
Late last year I exchanged a few emails with Jeremy and we discussed some of
the technical things he was doing with his website, and he was definitely on
the right track. The gist of what he was doing was to create a website that
allowed him to manage the site effectively without doing much of the
laborious work of continually editing HTML and formatting images. A common
solution to managing content is to put images and descriptions into a
database, and have the web server dynamically create HTML "on the fly" using
a scripting language and database queries (SQL). For those of you out there
that are knowledgeable in this sort of thing know that the initial work is
lengthy but well worth the result. Jeremy was more familiar with a UNIX
environment (specifically, Sun Solaris), Apache, Perl, and CGI from his work
at Intel, not the most intuitive environment (IMO) to work with, but he was
doing a good job with it nevertheless. That might indicate to those of you
who have wondered why the site was coming along relatively slowly...Jeremy
was learning quite a bit as he went along.
For someone to take over where he left off, their knowledge of this
environment would be necessary for them to even begin, and there are a few
obstacles. First of off, I have no idea of what sort of arrangement Jeremy
had with the ISP who's hosting the site, and how that was being paid for.
I'm sure Van's could answer that question, because I'm thinking that both
sites are virtual roots off the same box. The SourceRV.com domain name
contact information would have to be changed over to whomever becomes the
new maintainer of the site. Given that Jeremy was running the service as a
business, I'm sure there are some legal complications that would have to be
resolved.
Here's my take on getting SourceRV going again...
First, it would have to be a community effort. I think the site could have
huge potential for builders if it was "open sourced", that is, the RV
community allowed to contribute to the site. Membership fees would still
apply, but all of it would go to the scholarship fund. The problem with
this approach is that in the case of SourceRV, you could have a real mess of
a website if you had many people working on it at the same time. Everyone's
got different style, egos to deal with, and that would be apparent. But
there would have to be only a few people actually maintaining it...maybe 3-4
people. Even then you still might run into problems...the "plumbers" (like
me) don't make very good artists sometimes, and the look-and-feel suffers.
My solution to this sort of problem on one of the projects I'm working on
right now was to create an app that allows non-technical people to update
the site via a program on their desktop...it works like this: pick existing
categories or create a new one, add a description, open the digital camera
image via a dialog box that automatically formats the picture into the right
format, shape, and size, boom the user is done. The website and all links
are automatically updated, style is no longer an issue since nobody is
actually touching the website. This is something I am actively working on
right now which I have written in Visual Basic/SQL Server/ASP and I could
easily bring it over to SourceRV, once its done. Which should be in the
next two months or so. But there's a catch, if we went this route: the
webserver would have to be switched over to Windows2000 to accomodate this,
and Win2K doesn't run on the Sparc which is was Jeremy was using...so we'd
have to run it on a different server possibly at a different site where
someone could get physical access to it. Obviously there is a significant
cost in purchasing the software but if InfoAv was made into a non-for-profit
corporation Microsoft WILL (believe it or not!) donate the software for
free. We could maybe have a group of people (10-15 perhaps?) from various
parts of the country doing this, going to flyins, visiting builders, taking
pictures, etc. and updating the site via a tool like the one I'm working on,
and a small committee managing the technical portion of the site.
These are just some ideas of mine, but I certainly don't want go it alone or
see only just a select few involved. It sure would be a nice tribute to
Jeremy and his dad and a great information tool. I'm certainly open for
ideas--maybe some of us technical types can put our heads together and
collectively get it going. I propose that we get some people together via a
email list and start throwing some ideas around, get Van in the loop, and
start where Jeremy left off.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying soon
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/27/00 8:15:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dougweil(at)pressenter.com writes:
<< Wouldn't that be a nice tribute if everyone elected to donate their
subscription.
>>
YES!
Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Sender: owner-rv-list-server |
I just tried to get into the Matronics website and it appears to be in
accessible accept for a memo type letter say the site will be down for
upgrade on 4/4 and 4/5.
Is this the wrong address?
http://www.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
> My $.02. Keeping Jeremy's dream alive makes a lot of sense. Lots of
web-site
> talent among the listers - Sam B., Paul B. and a whole lot more. If I had
the
The real value of such a site comes from both general content ( panel pictures
and such ) and from Vans. Although I would really enjoy a common point of
contact and think that there would be tremendous value in having ( perhaps ) a
copy of the building instructions on line that the entire community could
annotate, we also need the input from Vans own draftsmen in the form of plan
revisions. I was gladly willing to pay $25 and more a year just to get to that.
It makes me crazy to think that every time I start a major assembly I may be
building a flaw into my project. All this because I'm not informed of changes
that may make for fewer cracks down the road and perhaps a faster ( safer )
plane in the long run.
I too am in the web business. Java code is my life. But I'm wise enough to see
that this must be a business and not a community project. There is just to much
technical that goes into constructing and maintaining something as complex as
this.
If this was such a good idea ( and I think it was a GREAT idea ), then perhaps
someone else who wants to make a buck will pickup the ball.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (fuse)
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 baggage door |
Ok all you 8 builders out there, what's the trick?
I'm in the process of doing final tweaking to the front baggage door and I'm
having a heck of a time getting it to curl so it looks like it fits. What
technique did you use to put that last little roll in the starboard side to make
it look like the rest of the skin?
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( Fuse )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SOURCE-RV annual dues |
<< Yet
when Jeremy announced the site there were lots of complaints about the
$24.95 per year. >>
randy
no disrespect here, but wasnt there 700 members that had subscribed to rv
souce.com out of 850 listers? i think the majority is willing to pay for the
site.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TOMPOWERSRV6(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt up canopy jettison question |
In a message dated 4/27/00 2:26:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RV6captain(at)aol.com writes:
<< am in the process of installing my tilt up canopy. I need some info about
weather or not to install the jettison mechanism. I am installing the lift
struts in the sides of the canopy frame so wouldn't this defeat the purpose
of the jettison mechanism by still having the struts attached.
Would appreciate any input I could get.
Thanks,
Eli Lewis
Venice, FL
RV-6 >>
You can also buy special rivets designed to shear (shear rivets) for the aft
mount of the gas strut. It might help in flight but it wont help much on the
ground if you flip over.
(if the plane flips over on the ground I think it would be fairly hard to
jettison the canopy anyway. The plexi glass would probably be cracked or
missing all together.
I just finished my canopy, and decided not to mount the jettison handle
in the instrument panel. I installed the canopy with bolts and nut plates,
if it needs to be removed for maint.
Tom Powers RV6
N5UA
________________________________________________________________________________
How about Larry Bowen. He works on websites, computers, etc. for a living.
You can visit his site at www.bowenaero.com
Come on Larry !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
North Carolina (N901LL res)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
I'll second that. If you need a sealant on pipe type threads, use a pipe
dope. Most have powdered Teflon in them but the powder is so small it will
go through the orifices of you fuel or brake system. Flakes of tape on the
other hand when they get into the system and they will sooner or later, plug
these small holes, and keep valves from sealing. What kind of valves? Carb
float valves, quick drain valves, master cylinder brake valves.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 10:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: teflon tape
>
> Any problem teflon taping the threads on the fittings that go into
the
> brake
> cylinders?
>
> Fran,
>
> As an EAA tech counselor, instrument tech, and former Hughes Aircraft QC
> inspector I have opinions about such things. Heck, who doesn't! :-)
>
> I have strong opinions about teflon tape. You won't find a single piece
of
> it on my plane. It's much too easy to get bits of it where it doesn't
> belong. Especially when you disassemble parts....then you get to pick all
> the little bits out of the fittings so they don't head downstream later.
>
> On a similar note: No silicone RTV on my gaskets either. It's for
hurry-up
> car repairs, not airplanes. When gaskets are set in place, the RTV can
ooze
> out inside the engine (or whatever) and later break loose and clog oil
> passages, etc. It can even break things if it gets between gear teeth,
> etc... where there's tight clearance.... something has to give.
>
> NEVER use it around fuel as it will soften and eventually fall off or
leak.
> Use proseal on your airbox and most other places FWF, if you need a
sealant.
>
> What do I trust????? I prefer the old fashion "Aviation Form- a -gasket"
> that you brush on for general work. Many fittings need only to be lubed
> with hyd. fluid, oil, or whatever passes through the fitting when
installed.
> Whatever you choose, the important thing is to use it sparingly and not
let
> anything go where it doesn't belong.
>
> Build safe, fly safe.
>
> Vince
> RV-4
> HRII under construction
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bmaynard507(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Allegro (was: egt & cht) |
I have the Allegro units in my RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
I have one of the genuine 37 degree flaring tool from Avery and have trouble
getting an even flare. Using the 1/4" tubing in the wing kit, I set the jaws
for 1/4" and slide in until the tubing is at the pointer. Then clamp it shut
and crank it down to generate the flare. The instructions say crank it down
until you feel pressure. If I do that, no flare is generated. If I go
further, then a flare is generated but it is off center. I have tried
loosening the clamp, rotating the tubing 180 and then flaring it again. This
actually works and the joint doesn't leak, but I feel sure that this is not
the correct approach.
If there is a technique to this, I'd sure like to hear it. There is no
adjustment for centering this tool that I can see.
Thanks,
Bill Christie, RV8A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Night Vision Lighting--Medical Physiology(long) |
All--
Several recent posts have dealt with dimmable, night lighting arrangements.
For years, the doctrine has been to avoid bright, white lights at least
30' before a night flight and close one eye if unexpectedly exposed to
that light. That's generally still pretty good advice. We were also
told to use red lighting in our cockpits to avoid "night blindness"
(drum beat of Doom).
1. A bright, sunny day at the beach (afternoon) can last much longer
than 30' on night vision adaptation (think in terms of hours, here).
1A. dark sunglasses that block both UV-A & UV-B are a help, in
this case (also, for future cataract formation).
2. The two major problems with red light is that it 1: distorts map
colors and 2: is on the longer wavelength side of our visual spectrum
making it harder to focus, esp. for mid-age and older pilots and for
those on long/extended flights (commercial/military) and can cause
significant eye strain even over a relatively short period of time.
Also, in more sophisticated tests, dim red light was really no more
protective of night vision than "dim" light of other colors.
3. The next big paradigm shift was to blue light. The theory being
that at a shorter wavelength, it was easier to focus and, therefore, it
caused much less eye strain and apparently a little less color
distortion in map reading.
4. Well, in all the confusion, some people tried DIM white light for
initial map reading followed by a little brighter blue light to help
with map detail. Fine and dandy.
5. A lot(?--I don't have the numbers) of commercial carriers currently
just go with dim white lights. And for CAT III, II and I approaches,
who can argue?--the outside marker lights are brighter than anything
inside the cabin.
6. The most stringent requirement that I can find in the 2000 FAR is
135.159.par.f(2) "Instrument lights to make all instruments, switches
and gauges easily readable, the direct rays of which are shielded from
the pilot's eyes...".
7. If you will be doing extensive night flying it would be wise to
consume beta carotene, 25,000 U/day for several days prior to flying as
the body will turn beta carotene into Vitamin A (which is required for
good night vision) on as an as needed basis rather than stocking up on
Vitamin A, itself, which can build up to toxic levels, if overdone.
7A. Subacute myopia (short sightedness) can also cause visual
acuity (clarity) to decrease in dim light, so a visit to the eye doctor
may be a good investment if you notice that problem. (You should also
notice a problem reading road signs while driving at night)
8. This is also done to prevent current and future builders from
spending a lot money on fancy "night lighting" that may not be necessary.
9. Also bear in mind that some contemporary textbooks still use vision
data from the Navy and Air Force that was collected during '40's, '50's
and'60's. The bulk of our current info on hypothermia and duration of life
(still quoted in current medical texts) was gathered by Nazi doctors
using Jewish and Gypsy(Romano) prisoners in the concentration camps of WWII.
Boyd
RV S6
Life is a Cabaret
(M.D.)
contact off-line if you want more specifics
but remember that I can only give general guidelines without physically
examining a patient--unlike Ann Landers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 baggage door |
Hey Jim... You bring up a timely topic. I'm at that stage also, quite happy
w/ my results but of the 15 or so -8's Ive' seen this is one very noticeable
metal working feat. like the book says, drill the door from the inside and
hope the curve matches. Mine does if you push down hard when you activate
the lock, but I'm waiting till the engine is hung until I drill the UHMA
blocks to the bulkheads. Some builders add shims to the bulkheads to account
for the irregularly, others add a fill material to match a joint. Most I've
seen have a mismatch at the rear curve, not as bad as the front mismatch
which would question the lift up possibility.
I'd love to hear what the experts say, cause there's many of us coming that
way.
Regards
Doug Gardner -8A
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com]
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 2:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 baggage door
Ok all you 8 builders out there, what's the trick?
I'm in the process of doing final tweaking to the front baggage door and I'm
having a heck of a time getting it to curl so it looks like it fits. What
technique did you use to put that last little roll in the starboard side to
make
it look like the rest of the skin?
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( Fuse )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 baggage door |
>Ok all you 8 builders out there, what's the trick?
>
>I'm in the process of doing final tweaking to the front baggage door and
>I'm
>having a heck of a time getting it to curl so it looks like it fits. What
>technique did you use to put that last little roll in the starboard side to
>make
>it look like the rest of the skin?
>
>Thx,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8AQ ( Fuse )
>N89JA (reserved)
I used the edge rolling tool to dress down all three sides of the door skin
to so that at least it doesn't stick up into the airstream on the front
edge. I managed to get this edge to sit down pretty well, but the rear just
didn't want to cooperate no matter how I approached it. the radius just
isn't the same as the bulkhead it sits on. It really doesn't look bad
unless you OBSESS over it (not a good idea if you want to fly the thing
someday!). So, curl those edges a bit, make sure the locking pins work and
secure the door properly, then move on. You can always build another one
someday. Ack! the horror.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
watched three Grumman warbirds land today. Oooh! gimmee....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
I second that
Jim Streit
9A- Emp
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> john
> i for one hate to see the RV source web site just disappear, Jeremy worked
> to hard on that web site. there are a lot of computer talented rvers on this
> list that should pick up the ball and run with it, hint hint Sam b. its not
> a matter of the 20 bucks, Jeremy was on to something grand, we should not let
> it go. i wouldn't know where to start, but to ask any on the list who has the
> talent and the time to fully carry out Jeremy's dream and finish the website,
> whatcha think guys
> look at what Jeremy gave us, vans website, the best on the Internet.
>
> just my thoughts
>
> Scott
> Tampa
> 6a tipsy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
I have pin outs for AT150, same as 50. If you get pin outs for ACK, you just
match them.
-----Original Message-----
From: flyhars(at)ibm.net <flyhars(at)ibm.net>
Date: Thursday, April 27, 2000 7:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: ACK Encoder
>
>Can someone help with the wiring output from an ACK-30 encoder to an
>Narco-AT50A Transponder.
>
>Thanks in Advance: Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB Wiring DNA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: replacing Van's wing t ips with Rocket wing tips |
hello,
do you have a photo of what they look like installed?
thanks,
lucky
>From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: replacing Van's wing t ips with Rocket wing tips
>Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 21:41:08 -0700
>
>
>I have them on my -8. Also see the October picture on Van's 2000
>calendar.They fit better than Van's originals, are sturdier & you can tell
>that they are just better made all the way around. If you buy them from Dan
>Potter & Oliver Brennan (see Yeller Pages) they have a lighting kit (which
>I
>haven't entirely figured out how to install yet). You could also check with
>Team Rocket as they were making their own sheared tips with nav/strobe
>bulkhead already molded in. When I checked with them some months ago, there
>was no room for a landing light in this set-up. you had to use the
>Duckworths in the wing leading edge.
>
>Phil 80691
>
> > snip
> > Someone suggested to me that the Rocket wing tips would be better than
>Van's
> > wing tips for a few reasons IF they would fit. They thought that 1) the
> > wing tips are already modified for night and taxi lights, 2) they were
> > lighter as they were made differently and better and 3) they have a
>"cooler"
> > shape.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks all for your help on the wiring of the ACK encoder. I recieved a lot
of info, thanks
Harv
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Noel <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ACK Encoder
>
> I have pin outs for AT150, same as 50. If you get pin outs for ACK, you
just
> match them.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: flyhars(at)ibm.net <flyhars(at)ibm.net>
> To: RV6-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, April 27, 2000 7:31 PM
> Subject: RV-List: ACK Encoder
>
>
> >
> >Can someone help with the wiring output from an ACK-30 encoder to an
> >Narco-AT50A Transponder.
> >
> >Thanks in Advance: Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB Wiring DNA
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 baggage door |
Lister's
A bit of advise, based on my experience.
1. Don't cut out the baggage door original stock until the top skin is
drilled.
2. Follow the instructions & file to fit the door to your airframe.
I used a few shims & filed to fit the door & the fit is good. I am not going
to have to use any body filler.
I found thus far, the baggage door to be the most challenging metal working
aspect of the project.
Take your time, think it through & it will look great.
Mark Stefensen
RV8A N783MS
Airport Bound soon.........
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 7:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 baggage door
>
>
> >Ok all you 8 builders out there, what's the trick?
> >
> >I'm in the process of doing final tweaking to the front baggage door and
> >I'm
> >having a heck of a time getting it to curl so it looks like it fits.
What
> >technique did you use to put that last little roll in the starboard side
to
> >make
> >it look like the rest of the skin?
> >
> >Thx,
> >
> >- Jim Andrews
> >RV-8AQ ( Fuse )
> >N89JA (reserved)
>
> I used the edge rolling tool to dress down all three sides of the door
skin
> to so that at least it doesn't stick up into the airstream on the front
> edge. I managed to get this edge to sit down pretty well, but the rear
just
> didn't want to cooperate no matter how I approached it. the radius just
> isn't the same as the bulkhead it sits on. It really doesn't look bad
> unless you OBSESS over it (not a good idea if you want to fly the thing
> someday!). So, curl those edges a bit, make sure the locking pins work and
> secure the door properly, then move on. You can always build another one
> someday. Ack! the horror.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> watched three Grumman warbirds land today. Oooh! gimmee....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
Ok--------if it would be too much work to continue Jeremys site, is all the
work that he did complete [ plans revisions-builder tips-safety notes-etc ]
going to be gone to all those future builders? I am a computer dummy so i
don't know how things work but could this information and future panel/plane
pictures, building tips, safety notes, etc. be placed on a site where it
could be accessed by all of us. ?????????? Mike McGowan
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring tool |
Bill, are you putting oil on the cone shaped flaring mandrel? Makes all
the difference in the world. If you are already using oil, maybe your tool
is not aligned, and should be sent back.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
> I have one of the genuine 37 degree flaring tool from Avery and have
trouble
> getting an even flare. Using the 1/4" tubing in the wing kit, I set the
jaws
> for 1/4" and slide in until the tubing is at the pointer. Then clamp it
shut
> and crank it down to generate the flare. The instructions say crank it
down
> until you feel pressure. If I do that, no flare is generated. If I go
> further, then a flare is generated but it is off center. I have tried
> loosening the clamp, rotating the tubing 180 and then flaring it again.
This
> actually works and the joint doesn't leak, but I feel sure that this is
not
> the correct approach.
>
> If there is a technique to this, I'd sure like to hear it. There is no
> adjustment for centering this tool that I can see.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flaring tool |
Bill,
Are you using the Rolo Flair (red handle, does down to 1/8" tubing) or
the other style? Since you indicated a pointer, I assume you are using the
Rolo Flair. Make sure the tubing is square and deburred both inside and
outside. Use oil. The cone on the R.F. should float a bit and is self
centering.
I like to polish the O.D. of the tube on a fine Scotch Brite wheel and
slide a sleeve on, backwards. I use this, slid up to the end, to gauge
squareness when I dress up the end of the tube on the S.B. wheel. You
tighten the cone until increased resistance is felt after the flare is
mostly formed.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
>I have one of the genuine 37 degree flaring tool from Avery and have trouble
>getting an even flare. Using the 1/4" tubing in the wing kit, I set the jaws
>for 1/4" and slide in until the tubing is at the pointer. Then clamp it shut
>and crank it down to generate the flare. The instructions say crank it down
>until you feel pressure. If I do that, no flare is generated. If I go
>further, then a flare is generated but it is off center. I have tried
>loosening the clamp, rotating the tubing 180 and then flaring it again. This
>actually works and the joint doesn't leak, but I feel sure that this is not
>the correct approach.
>
>If there is a technique to this, I'd sure like to hear it. There is no
>adjustment for centering this tool that I can see.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill Christie, RV8A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rowbotham" <daverowbotham(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 baggage door |
Jim,
I found myself in the same situation what I ended up doing was curling it by
hand around a cylinder, it took a few revolutions of bend/curl and fit
close.
You will find it really will come together when it is taped down and held by
someone from the outside while you back drill the inside skin from
underneath.
Also a side note for the best fit ensure that you pop rivet the inside skin
on
while it is on the plane and taped flat with someone holding the contour
from
the outside, even though you drilled it in place the natural untwisting of
the
door when it is colecoed on the bench will change the dimensions and you
will
not get a good fit if done off the plane. Just my experience and I had to
drill
out my first set of rivets before I put the door on and riveted it.
Dave Rowbotham
Connecticut rv-8aq
wiring instrument panel and starting cowling
>>> 04/28/00 02:43PM >>>
Ok all you 8 builders out there, what's the trick?
I'm in the process of doing final tweaking to the front baggage door and I'm
having a heck of a time getting it to curl so it looks like it fits. What
technique did you use to put that last little roll in the starboard side to
make
it look like the rest of the skin?
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( Fuse )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
Just to throw more fuel on the fire, check out
http://www.edt.com:80/homewing/rhproject/#cabinlts
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
You guys, counting how many landings you get on your tires... sheesh! I
mean, if I were that obsessive, I'd probably know that I got 177 landings,
hard surface, mostly "normal" landings and just a few wheel landings, on my
Aero Trainers, and wore the outsides almost bald, and just reversed them.
Sire glad I'm not that obsessive....
;-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | pholgiston or not?? |
i have ordered wings and was wondering if the pholgiston is worth it. i have
plenty of time here and vans said it's mostly clean up work. the only thing
that scares me is setting the larger rivets. some guys said they used c frame
and 3 lb sledge. vans said they pass around via ups a pneumatic... to set the
big ones. i don't mind the clean up and the acid etch, alodine, poxy, but
the rivets, well, i have drilled out many in the empenage and not want to do
much of that with wing spars. thoughts guys????? thanx, bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
> i have ordered wings and was wondering if the pholgiston is worth it. i
have
> plenty of time here and vans said it's mostly clean up work. the only
thing
> that scares me is setting the larger rivets. some guys said they used c
frame
> and 3 lb sledge. vans said they pass around via ups a pneumatic... to set
the
> big ones. i don't mind the clean up and the acid etch, alodine, poxy, but
> the rivets, well, i have drilled out many in the empenage and not want to
do
> much of that with wing spars. thoughts guys????? thanx, bob in arkansas
This question comes up every now and then which is why it's in the FAQ -- go
to http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Archives/RV-List.FAQ.html#wingspar. Bottom
line is it looks a lot scarier than it is. Yes people have apparently had
good luck with a 3 lb sledge, but I used a 5 pounder -- would feel better
about that cuz fewer blows so less chance of work-hardening the rivets.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6 (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
Bob,
I just finished setting the 3/16 rivets in my left main spar yesterday. I was
as
psyched out as anyone about this, but using the C frame tool method (described
very well in the Orndorf wing video and the plans) and a 4 lb hammer resulted in
a spar full of nearly perfect rivets. I too drilled out many in the emp, but
honestly, setting the 3/16 with a C frame tool is probably easier to contol than
trying to buck 1/8 riverts by yourself. Just make sure the spar is level and
supported at both ends, and the rivet head is firmly in the cupped set, and
you'll have no problems. I also found it helps a lot to clamp the spar pieces
together with c clamps and wood blocks just ahead of the rivet being set, it
prevents any gap from being formed between the flange strips and web.
PS After looking proudly at my new spar, I look even more fondly at the $900
still in my checkbook, and I know I made the right decision!
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
At sun and fun there was a booth displaying a light strip that put out a
really cool greenish blue light. It apparently attaches to the visor and
looked really good with my head under that blanket they were demonstrating
with. Lightweight, and looked simple to install.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Czachorowski <midnight(at)UDel.Edu> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Baggage Door |
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 baggage door
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:03:39 -0700
Hey Jim... You bring up a timely topic. I'm at that stage also, quite
happy
w/ my results but of the 15 or so -8's Ive' seen this is one very
noticeable
metal working feat. like the book says, drill the door from the inside
and
hope the curve matches. Mine does if you push down hard when you activate
the lock, but I'm waiting till the engine is hung until I drill the UHMA
blocks to the bulkheads. Some builders add shims to the bulkheads to
account
for the irregularly, others add a fill material to match a joint. Most
I've
seen have a mismatch at the rear curve, not as bad as the front mismatch
which would question the lift up possibility.
I'd love to hear what the experts say, cause there's many of us coming
that
way.
Regards
Doug Gardner -8A
Doug and RV-8 ers,
I used a different technique that works
really well. I did not even crawl inside to back drill! First, procure
some 3M two part epoxy (2216). Drill and clecoe your baggage door parts
and tweak the baggage door from the outside while it is just clecoed (no
rivets yet).You may have to take it off and on about ten times until you
get it to were you want it. A straight vixen file is excellent to match
up the edges with the cutout in the fuselage. I used a "slip roll" for
the bottom edge to get a nice curl but in lieu of that you could probably
do a real nice job with a edge rolling tool (Cleaveland tools sells a
nice one that is made from a vice grips).
After everything is drilled, debarred and dimpled, install the
door with clecoes and check your fit once again (btw, don't install the
inner door cover, yet!) If your happy, remove the top door skin and mix
a small batch of epoxy. Epoxy the door to the door ribs and hold it with
clecoes ONLY! After a day of curing, remove the clecoes (they remove
easily) and lightly clean the holes with a hand held deburr tool. Rivet
the top and bottom doors on the ribs and install on to the fuselage.
Your done. The neat thing about the epoxy is that it holds the door skin
to the ribs without shifting. You get a real nice fit that way.
Joe Czachorowski
#80125 (almost finished)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | David Clark Headset ANR Kit. |
Hi,
Is anyone familiar with a kit that will upgrade a set of David Clark
headsets to noise cancelling types?
I heard that a kit exists, but I haven't seen it anywhere. Does anyone
know anything about these kits? Whether or not they work well? How
much they cost? Where to get them?
I would love to buy the real ANR headsets, but somehow all of my money
is getting sucked into the RV project.
Thanks
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
"Vans said they pass around via ups a pneumatic... to set the big ones".
Thats what I used two years ago and it worked very well. perfect rivits.
Vans, at that time charged $10 for the week and they paid shipping to me
and I paid to get it back to them. I had everything ready to go when it
got here and it took two evenings to do by myself.
Cecil Hatfield
>
>i have ordered wings and was wondering if the pholgiston is worth it.
>i have
>plenty of time here and vans said it's mostly clean up work. the only
>thing
>that scares me is setting the larger rivets. some guys said they used
>c frame
>and 3 lb sledge. vans said they pass around via ups a pneumatic... to
>set the
>big ones. i don't mind the clean up and the acid etch, alodine, poxy,
>but
>the rivets, well, i have drilled out many in the empenage and not
>want to do
>much of that with wing spars. thoughts guys????? thanx, bob in
>arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
Bob, I used the pneumatic squeezer that Vans ships via UPS as a rental.
($15?) It took two of us about 6 hours to set all rivets on two sets of
spars. Piece of cake! I recommend you save the money you don't spend on
Phlogiston for other goodies.
George Stanley
RV-6A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, April 29, 2000 1:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: pholgiston or not??
>
>i have ordered wings and was wondering if the pholgiston is worth it the
only thing
>that scares me is setting the larger rivets.
Bob, Don't worry about it The bark is much worse than the bite! I set mine
with a 3X gun and a big bucking bar. Worked Just fine!
Tommy in Ridgetop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Baggage Door |
Greets...
Our baggage door fits good without gaps but I want it to fit better...
To get to this level of good fit I did this...
1 Rolled outer and inner door skins to match rib shape...
2 I articulated door rods so they poke the plastic bearing is a straight
line...
3 I machined bearing blocks out of slippery Delrin...
note... I built door completely from the outside without drilling from the
inside...
To go to the next level of fit... I might drill holes in ribs to relieve
pressure and have door conform better...
I can send pic of door rods to anyone interested...
Larry
The Busy Little Shop
N248PL
Joe Czachorowski wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Joe Czachorowski
>
> From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 baggage door
> Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:03:39 -0700
>
> Hey Jim... You bring up a timely topic. I'm at that stage also, quite
> happy
> w/ my results but of the 15 or so -8's Ive' seen this is one very
> noticeable
> metal working feat. like the book says, drill the door from the inside
> and
> hope the curve matches. Mine does if you push down hard when you activate
>
> the lock, but I'm waiting till the engine is hung until I drill the UHMA
> blocks to the bulkheads. Some builders add shims to the bulkheads to
> account
> for the irregularly, others add a fill material to match a joint. Most
> I've
> seen have a mismatch at the rear curve, not as bad as the front mismatch
> which would question the lift up possibility.
> I'd love to hear what the experts say, cause there's many of us coming
> that
> way.
>
> Regards
> Doug Gardner -8A
>
> Doug and RV-8 ers,
>
> I used a different technique that works
> really well. I did not even crawl inside to back drill! First, procure
> some 3M two part epoxy (2216). Drill and clecoe your baggage door parts
> and tweak the baggage door from the outside while it is just clecoed (no
> rivets yet).You may have to take it off and on about ten times until you
> get it to were you want it. A straight vixen file is excellent to match
> up the edges with the cutout in the fuselage. I used a "slip roll" for
> the bottom edge to get a nice curl but in lieu of that you could probably
> do a real nice job with a edge rolling tool (Cleaveland tools sells a
> nice one that is made from a vice grips).
>
> After everything is drilled, debarred and dimpled, install the
> door with clecoes and check your fit once again (btw, don't install the
> inner door cover, yet!) If your happy, remove the top door skin and mix
> a small batch of epoxy. Epoxy the door to the door ribs and hold it with
> clecoes ONLY! After a day of curing, remove the clecoes (they remove
> easily) and lightly clean the holes with a hand held deburr tool. Rivet
> the top and bottom doors on the ribs and install on to the fuselage.
> Your done. The neat thing about the epoxy is that it holds the door skin
> to the ribs without shifting. You get a real nice fit that way.
>
> Joe Czachorowski
> #80125 (almost finished)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
I used the Avery C-Frame tool and a 5x rivet gun to set the rivets. Avery
provides a ram with a .401 machined end to fit a rivet gun. worked perfect.
Took about 2 to 3 seconds on each rivet.
I took me approx. 50 minutes to rivet each spar.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: David Clark Headset ANR Kit. |
Glenn: Look in the latest issue of Aviation Consumer...Jim Brown,RV-3&4, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum windshield fairing |
Hi all,
I rent half of a 50 x 40 hangar. The other half was empty till a few weeks
ago when Jim, a retired United Airlines sheetmetal mechanic, moved in. He
has a bread truck converted to a shop with tools I have never seen in any
catalog! He is very helpful. Yesterday, I learned how to use a shrinker as
well as how to buck, properly and where and when to use a porkchop..
He offered to help me make an aluminum windshield fairing. My first
homework is to figure out the shape of the initial piece of flat stock. I
like to learn by copying others and I recall seeing somewhere an article
about someone doing an aluminum fairing on an RV - I believe. Can anyone
remember seeing anything such? Or, can anyone suggest how to lay out the
flat stock?
hal
RV6A N7HK
N6134V is a 1965 Beech Debonair still for sale.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum windshield fairing |
> I recall seeing somewhere an article
> about someone doing an aluminum fairing on an RV - I believe. Can anyone
> remember seeing anything such? Or, can anyone suggest how to lay out the
> flat stock?
>
> hal
> RV6A N7HK
Hal,
Not sure if this is the one you're referring to, but Phil Arter has done his
windscreen fairing in aluminum on his RV-8. It can be seen at...
http://shell.rmi.net/~arter/windshield.html
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, mangling Aeroquip fuel line today
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: David Clark Headset ANR Kit. |
Glenn,
By an amazing coincidence I just finished reading about this in "Aviation
Consumer" May 2000 edition. It is made by Headsets, Inc. of Amarillo, Tx and
lists for $169. It is a kit and requires soldering skills. According to the
reviewer, it performs well enough, but they had their unit fail twice. You
can have the company assemble it for you for $50 extra. The instructions are
excellent and the service is good. Contact: 800-876-3374,
www.headsetsinc.com. I don't have one, but am going to order one next month
(credit card needs to cool off)!
Bill Christie, RV8A Wings, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 8:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: David Clark Headset ANR Kit.
>
> Hi,
> Is anyone familiar with a kit that will upgrade a set of David Clark
> headsets to noise cancelling types?
>
> I heard that a kit exists, but I haven't seen it anywhere. Does anyone
> know anything about these kits? Whether or not they work well? How
> much they cost? Where to get them?
>
> I would love to buy the real ANR headsets, but somehow all of my money
> is getting sucked into the RV project.
>
> Thanks
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
Hi Bob
I thought you are building an -8. If you are, don't worry about
phlogiston....the -8 wings are done by phlogiston.
Rob Baxter Sarnia Ontario
RV-8 fuel tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 2:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: pholgiston or not??
>
> i have ordered wings and was wondering if the pholgiston is worth it. i
have
> plenty of time here and vans said it's mostly clean up work. the only
thing
> that scares me is setting the larger rivets. some guys said they used c
frame
> and 3 lb sledge. vans said they pass around via ups a pneumatic... to set
the
> big ones. i don't mind the clean up and the acid etch, alodine, poxy, but
> the rivets, well, i have drilled out many in the empenage and not want to
do
> much of that with wing spars. thoughts guys????? thanx, bob in arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
> Just to throw more fuel on the fire, check out
> http://www.edt.com:80/homewing/rhproject/#cabinlts
Wups! That should be
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/index.html#cabinlts
Sorry!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Do engine driven fuel pumps often go bad or need overhaul or are they typically
an install and forget type component? Mine has less than 100 hours.
Also, if they are a higher maintenance item, when they do go bad, do they
typically cause a blockage or partial blockage in the flow that would show as
very low fuel pressure?
Still having a fuel pressure problem. I just installed a new FP sender after
fluctuating to zero indicated pressure. After installing it, with only the boost
pump on, pressure went immediately to a steady 4 lbs. With engine running it went
to 8-9 lbs steady. Thought the problem was solved. Then about 10 minutes into a
flight it started coming down slowly, all the way to zero. The boost pump would
kick it up to less than 1/2 lb. The engine sputtered a little at low rpm. After
shut down the boost pump by itself did nothing. Thought there might be a leak but
everything is dry and no odor. Fuel from the tanks and gascolator is also clean.
I checked all the lines prior to installing the new sender. They were also clean.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
>i have ordered wings and was wondering if the pholgiston is worth it. i have
>plenty of time here and vans said it's mostly clean up work. the only thing
>that scares me is setting the larger rivets. some guys said they used c
frame
>and 3 lb sledge. vans said they pass around via ups a pneumatic... to set
the
>big ones. i don't mind the clean up and the acid etch, alodine, poxy, but
>the rivets, well, i have drilled out many in the empenage and not want to
do
>much of that with wing spars. thoughts guys????? thanx, bob in arkansas
Bob,
You've received some good advice already. I always figured I had more
time than money so built 2 sets of spars. The Phlogiston spars are a thing
of beauty and are worth the extra money if you have a high paying job and
would rather work at the job instead of on the airplane. I elected to save
the money and build them myself.
The first set of spars, I rented Van's giant squeezer. At the time, I
had "tennis elbow" and couldn't lift a hammer let alone swing one. The
squeezer worked fine but is slower than setting the rivets with the "C"
frame tool. The set on the squeezer must be re-adjusted for each strech of
rivet lengths and then the spar inverted and the whole procedure done
again. This is where the extra time comes in. It sure is quiet, though.
I used bolts in the open holes and some "C" clamps to keep the stack of
strips together. You have to work around these when using the squeezer
which slows building down.
The second set of spars (no, I didn't mess up. They were for the second
airplane.) I built with the "C" tool and a 3 lb. "mini" sledge hammer. 4
or 5 lbs. might have worked even better. About 3 wacks with the 3 lb. set
the rivet. I bolted the "open" holes with hardware store bolts to keep the
flange stack together. Another trick you might try is to use is to slide
the "C" tool set with the hole in the end over the end of the rivet and
give the set a light tap to make sure the stack of flange strips is
compressed. Then insert the flush set in the long set and set the rivet.
I like what John Danielson did the best. Use the "C" frame tool with a
5X gun. That would be a bit faster and less tiring than using a hammer.
Maybe a 4X would work for this. It's hard to believe that you could set
3/16" rivets with a 3X gun without work hardening but one responder said he
got along fine. My 3X wouldn't have been able to do the job, though.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum windshield fairing |
kempthornes wrote:
> He offered to help me make an aluminum windshield fairing. My first
> homework is to figure out the shape of the initial piece of flat stock. I
> like to learn by copying others and I recall seeing somewhere an article
> about someone doing an aluminum fairing on an RV - I believe. Can anyone
> remember seeing anything such? Or, can anyone suggest how to lay out the
> flat stock?
"18 years of the RV-Ator" pg 106 (from the 6/97 RV-Ator). I don't know
who wrote the article, but it talks about Tracy Saylor's RV-6 with
sliding canopy and an all aluminum windscreen fairing. It includes 3
pages of how-to, half-a-dozen photos, and a diagram.
Frank.
RV-6, Building tip-up canopy frame
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
Bob, I had the time so I used the "C" frame from Avery's and a 4 lb.
Ctraftsman sledge from Sears. Worked great. I kept both ends of the spar
leveled with the die in the "C' frame using 2 x 4 and 1 x 4 pieces and used
3 firm whacks with the sledge on the "C" frame and the rivets set just fine.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (finish kit)
Olcott, NY
>From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
>Subject: RV-List: pholgiston or not??
>
>I have ordered wings and was wondering if the pholgiston is worth it. i
have
>plenty of time here and vans said it's mostly clean up work. the only thing
>that scares me is setting the larger rivets. some guys said they used c
>frame
>and 3 lb sledge. vans said they pass around via ups a pneumatic... to set
>the
>big ones. i don't mind the clean up and the acid etch, alodine, poxy, but
>the rivets, well, i have drilled out many in the empenage and not want to
>do
>much of that with wing spars. thoughts guys????? thanx, bob in arkansas<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Wheel Fairings |
Norman
If you use Sam's wheel pants and operate off a grass strip do not install
them
as low as his instructions show. I have trashed both wheel pants on grass
strips and I'm tired of fixing them.
I'm going to glass over all the mounting holes and move the pants up about
1 inch. I might lose 1 knot of speed but you have to draw a line somewhere.
Craig Hiers
Tallahassee,FL.
RV-4 N143CH
> I ordered my finishing kit without the main wheel pants (and cowl) as I
plan
> to try the ones made by Sam James. Is there more room in these?
>
> It would also seem that aircraft using grass runways are subject to very
low
> wear and tear. It is possible that the stock tires are just fine for these
> aircraft? Can anyone flying mostly on grass comment?
>
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta, BC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <bigfoot(at)saber.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Baggage Door |
Disposition-Notification-To: "Richard"
Larry
Very interesting procedure on fitting the baggage door. I have use of a
roller and was going to roll the inner and outer skins to match the curve of
the ribs too. I would like very much to see the photographs you have
fitting the baggage door.
Dick Johnson Willits, Ca
RV8A putting the pieces together
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: pholgiston or not?? |
To me getting everything cleaned and primed was more work then the
revits. I did it by myself and took me two evenings. I had to replace two bad
revits but this was because I didn't have the spar level on those two
ocassions. I used a one 25 lb. buck shot bag to weight things down and used
the C frame method. I was very proud of the way it came out and would
recomend this method to anyone building there on spars. Also work off the
concrete floor, there is not much bounce when hitting the revits. And take
the fellow up on his offer to help.
Mike (getting ready to skin)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Manual flap handle mechanism |
Hi all,
A few notes regarding the flap handle mechanism in the RV-6. I suspect
that the comments possibly also apply to other models.
The F660A dimensions aren't critical. It would be a good idea to
increase the outer 3/4" measurement a little to give better spacing to
the LP4-3 rivets. However, it is *very* important that the distance from
the folded end to the 3/16" hole be *at* *least* 1/2" -- more is better.
I discovered this (fortunately) whilst still building the flap handle...
the end of the F660A jammed solidly in the end of the bottom slot in the
handle. It took about 30 minutes of vigorous work to get everything
apart again. This would have been impossible in the air, and would have
meant flying round with the flaps stuck at some awkward angle :-(. The
width of the strip is also important at the fold-over point since the
spring pushes directly on the folded-over end of the F660 at just the
outer edges.
Pilot drill the pop-rivet holes #40 before doing the 180 degree bend.
Also strip the plastic (and prime) before doing that bend. I bent my
F660A in a vise, round a 1/8" bit. That seemed to work well, although
the space between the two sides seemed to close up -- maybe I got the
angles a little wrong.
After the above wee problem, I've decided to rebuild the F660A a little
differently. I'll put some spacers (about .150" or so) at either end of
the slot that the anchor goes through -- one up close to the pushrod,
the other aft of the AN-3 bolt (or maybe if I can find a bit of 3/16" ID
tube, I'll put it at the bolt. Perhaps also put some UHMW tape on the
inside of the slot to avoid scraping paint off the anchor. The back end
will be about 1" from the bolt. Probably all this will be built from
.063" aluminium -- the .040" used by Vans seems a bit flimsy to me. I
may also cut down the wooden dowel a little if the spring tension is too
great.
I also wonder about the way the spring pushes directly on the
folded-over end of the F660 at just the outer edges -- I think that it
would be better if the dowel was above the spring in the handle. Or
perhaps one dowel above the spring and one below it.
Any comments on the above ideas? Anyone had problems with the flap
mechanism?
Frank.
RV-6, Marton, NZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum windshield fairing |
Hal,
The article you are looking for is in the June 97 RVator page 6. I followed
the directions and fabricated a pretty good looking fairing. To bond and
seal the plexi and aluminum I used Dow Corning Trade Mate Silicone
Sealant/Adhesive along with pop rivets. This sealant/adhesive was
recommended by TAP plastics. It is used in industrial applications to seal
and bond plastics. I was very careful to mask the plexi and aluminum so that
the squeeze out could be peeled away when the tape was removed. And to
prevent problems with painting the tape keeps the silicone off the aluminum.
You are very fortunate to have Jim Barker in your hanger. He has been a
great help to me whenever I have a problem.
Cash Copeland
RV-6Q N46FC #60075
Wire---Wire--- Everywhere
In a message dated 4/29/00 7:05:48 PM GMT Daylight Time, kempthornes(at)home.com
writes:
<<
Hi all,
I rent half of a 50 x 40 hangar. The other half was empty till a few weeks
ago when Jim, a retired United Airlines sheetmetal mechanic, moved in. He
has a bread truck converted to a shop with tools I have never seen in any
catalog! He is very helpful. Yesterday, I learned how to use a shrinker as
well as how to buck, properly and where and when to use a porkchop..
He offered to help me make an aluminum windshield fairing. My first
homework is to figure out the shape of the initial piece of flat stock. I
like to learn by copying others and I recall seeing somewhere an article
about someone doing an aluminum fairing on an RV - I believe. Can anyone
remember seeing anything such? Or, can anyone suggest how to lay out the
flat stock?
hal
RV6A N7HK
N6134V is a 1965 Beech Debonair still for sale.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Baggage Door |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dick Martin contact info? |
Does anyone have an email address and/or phone number for Dick Martin? I'd
like to talk to him about a few details on his -8.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
fuselage bulkheads
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Wheel Fairings |
>From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Fitting Wheel Fairings
>Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 08:40:23 -0700
>
>
>I was following the recent thread on tire wear and was wondering if there
>are some basic recommendations here for all RV builders.
>
>For instance, it seems that most listers that are flying feel that the
>tires
>supplied in the kits aren't the greatest. One suggested ordering finish
>kits
>without the tires and buy high quality ones later in construction. How do
>the experienced guys feel about this? Sounds like a good idea to me but I
>already have them in my finish kit.
>
>It was also mentioned that some of the better tires don't fit into the
>wheel
>pants the same as the stock ones. There are various clearance problems.
>Could we please nail these down so that builders who haven't fitted these
>yet can build them to fit later in life? It could be something real simple
>like "install wheel pants with three silver dollars taped to the top of the
>tire and X amount of clearance around the sides of the tire". I have yet to
>fit mine and would really appreciate the opportunity to be flexible down
>the
>road.
>
>And how many different main wheel pants are there? Van has tried a few over
>the years. All replies should try to mention which pant they have.
>
>I ordered my finishing kit without the main wheel pants (and cowl) as I
>plan
>to try the ones made by Sam James. Is there more room in these?
>
>It would also seem that aircraft using grass runways are subject to very
>low
>wear and tear. It is possible that the stock tires are just fine for these
>aircraft? Can anyone flying mostly on grass comment?
>
>
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A Delta, BC
Norman,
My -8 has the Aerotrainer tires as supplied in the kit. I have the
two-piece, pressure recovery type wheel pants installed per plans. I have no
complaints except that they are NOT fun to install. Tire wear at 86 hours
and LOTS of landings is uniform and about what I would expect. With the -8,
you have to get those gear legs on STRAIGHT and the tires will wear evenly
and probably give well over 100 hours of flight time off of hard surfaced
runways. When I do replace them, I would not hesitate to replace them with
the same type. They work fine as long as the guy in the driver's seat
doesn't abuse them.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
sat in an F6F Hellcat today. Grrrrr....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Interior priming? |
I've been using the Tempo spraycan zinc chromate primer with good results so
far. I'd like to paint the cockpit interior to match the powder coated
parts. I know that Cardinal #230 will be a match for this. My question is:
should I leave the cockpit area bare aluminum until I paint it all gray, or
should I prime as I've been doing elsewhere and apply the gray interior paint
over the chromate?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
fuselage bulkheads
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
I have been carefully following the discussions on tire wear since I am
observing similar wear patterns on the tires of my clipped-wing RV-9.
Hopefully I have discovered some landing techniques that will enhance
the wear characteristics of the Aero-Trainers on my plane.
I have observed that the best way to quickly wear out tires is to make
smooth landings. If you 'grease" the plane onto the runway, the total
amount of time required to "spin-up" the tires to landing speed is much
greater than if you slam the tires onto the pavement. When the tires are
hammered into the asphalt, such as is apt to happen when you try to
flare from twenty feet above the runway, the tires INSTANTANEOUSLY come
up to speed with very little resulting tread wear. You may have to
contend with asphalt rash on the bottom of the wheelpants, however, but
this is a minor inconvenience compared to replacing worn-out tires. When
the plane touches down during the following bounces, the tires will
already be spinning rapidly (unless you are clumsy enough to land with
the brakes applied) and no wear will occur.
An advanced technique is to concentrate all the tread wear on one tire.
This is accomplished by slamming only one tire onto the pavement
(usually can be accomplished by employing reversed cross-wind technique)
then letting the plane slow to stall speed while it is still three feet
in the air. The resulting "arrival" will be at very low ground speed,
and the remaining tires will suffer very little wear. The trick to
making this work well is to alternately bounce wheels on subsequent
landings so the tires wear equally a small amount.
6-A and 8-A drivers can preserve tire tread on the main tires by always
touching down first on the nosegear. This is desireable since a couple
of listers have stated that the nosegear tire seems to last "forever".
If the nose wheel is plonked down hard enough, the resulting bounce will
allow you to stall the plane several feet above the runway and the main
wheels will barely be turning as you complete the arrival.
I am sure there are other ways to preserve tire tread, but these are
some techniques that I have used or have observed other wear conscious
pilots using. Tire rubber is a resource that responsible pilots try to
conserve at all times, and these techniques are certainly worth
mastering.
Sam Buchanan
-------------------------------------
Ed Hobenshield wrote:
>
>
> >-->
> >>
> >Have done a lot of interviews and fact straining on this subject with many
> >variables. IMHO, you are right on the norm; however It is unusual that you
> >are counting landings. It is a very good sign that you are wearing same on
> >both sides and that the outside is going first. Mine is a 180 HP 6A which
> >weighs a little over 1100 lbs. I got 250 landings on the original tires,
> >reversed at about 125 landings. I replaced with Condors, and got 450
> >landings (they have about twice as much tread). I am on the third set and
> >am trying for 500. I just rotated at 250 landings. All my ops are on paved
> >surface; however I strive to be very gentle with my undercarriage and its
> >shoes.
> >
> >The good news is the nose tire lasts forever. I changed mine out at 900 but
> >it still had a bit of tread left.
> > --
>
> Man,
> What s going on? 250 landings and the tires wore out? I have 250+ landings
> on my 6a and have very little wear. However, it lookes like the Condors are
> a great tire and would be a great tire for replacement.
> I am still amazed that the origional tires are getting such poor life.
> Perhaps the 1000 ft grass runway helps as less taxi time and only using the
> 500 max take-off and landing?
> Ed.
>
> Ed Hobenshield edhob(at)kermode.net
> Kitwanga, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Wheel Fairings |
>
> If you use Sam's wheel pants and operate off a grass strip do not install
> them
> as low as his instructions show. I have trashed both wheel pants on grass
> strips and I'm tired of fixing them.
> I'm going to glass over all the mounting holes and move the pants up about
> 1 inch. I might lose 1 knot of speed but you have to draw a line
somewhere.
Craig, did your wheel pants get trashed by wearing against the tires or by
wearing against grass?
Thanks for replying,
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dick Martin contact info? |
The following is Dicks Email address. I seem to remember he posted his
phone number in one of his messages. A search of the archives on "Dick
Martin phone number" might yield some results.
martin(at)gbonline.com
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 7:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dick Martin contact info?
>
> Does anyone have an email address and/or phone number for Dick Martin?
I'd
> like to talk to him about a few details on his -8.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> fuselage bulkheads
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: replacing Van's wing t ips with Rocket wing tips |
Try this link, it might be what you're looking for.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/images/RV8Tips.JPG
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: replacing Van's wing t ips with Rocket wing tips
>
> hello,
> do you have a photo of what they look like installed?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
>
> >From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: replacing Van's wing t ips with Rocket wing tips
> >Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 21:41:08 -0700
> >
> >
> >I have them on my -8. Also see the October picture on Van's 2000
> >calendar.They fit better than Van's originals, are sturdier & you can
tell
> >that they are just better made all the way around. If you buy them from
Dan
> >Potter & Oliver Brennan (see Yeller Pages) they have a lighting kit
(which
> >I
> >haven't entirely figured out how to install yet). You could also check
with
> >Team Rocket as they were making their own sheared tips with nav/strobe
> >bulkhead already molded in. When I checked with them some months ago,
there
> >was no room for a landing light in this set-up. you had to use the
> >Duckworths in the wing leading edge.
> >
> >Phil 80691
> >
> > > snip
> > > Someone suggested to me that the Rocket wing tips would be better than
> >Van's
> > > wing tips for a few reasons IF they would fit. They thought that 1)
the
> > > wing tips are already modified for night and taxi lights, 2) they were
> > > lighter as they were made differently and better and 3) they have a
> >"cooler"
> > > shape.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | tailwheel choices |
It's time for a new t/w for my -4. Bad bearings & really rough spots on
the tire. I've been basically happy with the original,
pivot-on-the-bent-tailspring, solid tire wheel. The plane is 8 yrs old &
has around 500 hrs.
Searched the archives about pneumatic t/w's & didn't get anything more
recent than Oct, with no follow-up info from the guys who had probs with
the original 4 ply Andairs.
What say you? I wouldn't mind saving a pound or 2 at the rear, but is it
really worth 3 times the money & the risk of a flat away from home (or
at home for that matter)? 'Smoother' really isn't that big an issue to
me.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Wheel Fairings |
In a message dated 4/29/00 9:09:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< it seems that most listers that are flying feel that the tires
supplied in the kits aren't the greatest. One suggested ordering finish kits
without the tires and buy high quality ones later in construction. How do
the experienced guys feel about this? Sounds like a good idea to me but I
already have them in my finish kit.>>
When you first start flying your plane you will probably be wearing tires
faster than normal until you get the approach speed nailed. The McCreary
Aerotrainers are a very soft compound.
<>
You should consider that most of the other tire brands are more of a square
profile so ensure that you have a good finger's worth of pant clearance all
around the tire opening along with a few RCHs more clearance in the corner
area (at periphery of tread). I think the Condor tire is a very good value
and has a much more robust compound for use on tarmac. Turf is far more
forgiving and your tires (whatever the brand) will probably last much
longer.>>
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Interior priming? |
Ken:
Depends what kind of top coat you're using on the interior. I met some of
the paint vendors at OSH last year & asked them similar questions. They
asked if I was using zinc chromate because they said it can cause some of
the newer urethane paints to bubble & blister. (Perhaps others more
knowledgeable than myself could comment).
I've been using the SW P60G2 primer that Van uses & that seems to be OK with
some of the paints you might use on the interior. Paul Besing said it worked
fine with Sherwin-Williams Sunfire. But, since I'm using Cardinal paint to
match the Cardinal powder coat, I switched to the Cardinal wash primer when
I ran out of the SW. The two products seem very similar by appearance &
usage & seem to have similar chemical components if you read the MSDS. No
compatibility problems so far.
Phil, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: David Clark Headset ANR Kit. |
In a message dated 4/29/00 8:36:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Hi,
Is anyone familiar with a kit that will upgrade a set of David Clark
headsets to noise cancelling types?
I heard that a kit exists, but I haven't seen it anywhere. Does anyone
know anything about these kits? Whether or not they work well? How
much they cost? Where to get them?
I would love to buy the real ANR headsets, but somehow all of my money
is getting sucked into the RV project.
Thanks
-Glenn Gordon
>>
Glen, Check out < http://2.eos.net/morrism/ >
I don`t know anything good or bad, just that they`re out there.
Fred LaForge RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual flap handle mechanism |
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> A few notes regarding the flap handle mechanism in the RV-6. I suspect
> that the comments possibly also apply to other models.
>
> The F660A dimensions aren't critical. It would be a good idea to
> increase the outer 3/4" measurement a little to give better spacing to
> the LP4-3 rivets. However, it is *very* important that the distance from
> the folded end to the 3/16" hole be *at* *least* 1/2" -- more is better.
>
It also helps if the slot in the flap handle is no larger than necessary.
> Perhaps also put some UHMW tape on the
> inside of the slot to avoid scraping paint off the anchor. The back end
> will be about 1" from the bolt.
I left my "Anchor" unpainted since I knew the paint would get scraped off.
>
>
> I also wonder about the way the spring pushes directly on the
> folded-over end of the F660 at just the outer edges -- I think that it
> would be better if the dowel was above the spring in the handle. Or
> perhaps one dowel above the spring and one below it.
>
I put the dowel above the spring in the handle. The mechanism seems to work
a little smoother with this arrangement.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum windshield fairing |
Hal,
I made my own aluminim windshield fairings and they came out much nicer than any
glass fairings I've seen. They are much thinner than fiberglass and took me
about a day from start to finish. The material I used was, I believe 1100 grade,
.032. It,s soft and works almost like putty after a little practice. I didn't do
any shrinking and did not use any special tools. I used a piece of 2X4 in the
vice and used my rivit gun (at a very low pressure) and a flush set as a
planishing hammer. As you work one side the metal will start to curve and you'll
find that you can form it to almost any shape you want. I started with a piece
of construction paper for the starting shape then gave up and just guessed at
what it should look like. I only scrapped one piece and ended up with what I
think are pretty nice fairings. What the heck you don't have anything to lose
but a little bit of sheet metal!
Dave
kempthornes wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I rent half of a 50 x 40 hangar. The other half was empty till a few weeks
> ago when Jim,.... offered to help me make an aluminum windshield fairing. My
> first....
>
> hal
> RV6A N7HK
> N6134V is a 1965 Beech Debonair still for sale.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
If you are using the electric pressure gauge be aware the senders are often the
cause
of pressure problems. In the last 5 years I've had to open and repair/calibrate
4 of
them (some fuel and some oil pressure).
The sending unit should be your first suspect.
Dave
Andy wrote:
>
> Do engine driven fuel pumps often go bad or need overhaul or are they typically
> an install and forget type component? Mine has less than 100 hours.
>
> Also, if they are a higher maintenance item, when they do go bad, do they
> typically cause a blockage or partial blockage in the flow that would show as
> very low fuel pressure?
>
> Still having a fuel pressure problem. I just installed a new FP sender after
> fluctuating to zero indicated pressure. After installing it, with only the boost
> pump on, pressure went immediately to a steady 4 lbs. With engine running it
went
> to 8-9 lbs steady. Thought the problem was solved. Then about 10 minutes into
a
> flight it started coming down slowly, all the way to zero. The boost pump would
> kick it up to less than 1/2 lb. The engine sputtered a little at low rpm. After
> shut down the boost pump by itself did nothing. Thought there might be a leak
but
> everything is dry and no odor. Fuel from the tanks and gascolator is also clean.
> I checked all the lines prior to installing the new sender. They were also clean.
>
> Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual flap handle mechanism |
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> A few notes regarding the flap handle mechanism in the RV-6. I suspect
> that the comments possibly also apply to other models.
> I also wonder about the way the spring pushes directly on the
> folded-over end of the F660 at just the outer edges -- I think that it
> would be better if the dowel was above the spring in the handle. Or
> perhaps one dowel above the spring and one below it.
Precisely what I did with my flap handle installation. I cut the wood
dowel into two pieces and put the spring between them as shown on this
page:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse7.html
The flap handle was also shortened 4". The installation works very
nicely.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 140 hrs; engine to be dismantled next week....check
the website for blow-by-blow details...)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: David Clark Headset ANR Kit. |
they are made my headsets inc. in amarillo texas. ive had one for years and
they work great. installed it in my 10-60. cost me 169.00 at snf a couple of
years ago.
R. Burns
rv-4 s/n 3524 N82RB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: an515-8r8 torque value |
Hello,
Checked archives and AC43.13 for torque values for an an515-8r8 screw,
specifically the gas tank access plate ones. Does anyone know the correct
value(s)
Also, is there a special screwdriver point for this screw as I keep with
little effort messing up the heads.
Thanks,
Vince Himsl
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tailwheel choices |
>
> It's time for a new t/w for my -4. Bad bearings & really
> rough spots on
> the tire. I've been basically happy with the original,
> pivot-on-the-bent-tailspring, solid tire wheel. The plane
> is 8 yrs old &
> has around 500 hrs.
>
During my annual inspection last week, I replaced my original RV-6
tailwheel with a new one from Van's. Today as I was pulling the
airplane out, I heard a thump, thump, thump. Upon inspection, I found
the tail wheel had a flat spot on it. (It wasn't that way when I flew
on Thursday.) I haven't a clue as to why. The wheel had accumulated
a total of 8 landings.
Out with new, in with the old. I hope Van's will replace it.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 471 hrs.
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
Howdy!
In checking my aileron travel (installing top skin tonight!) per the
specs in section 15, when almost full "up" the pushrod heim joint bolt
contacts the W-413 mounting bracket (look at dwg. 16, left middle detail
where "+" shows bolt center next to mounting bkt. just under end of
pushrod), and when almost full "down" the bellcrank contacts the
vertical .063 angle that ties the rear of the 1/8" angles together. It
doesn't seem like these interferences would make very good aileron
stops- certainly not per plan. (bellcrank is mounted right way
'round!) It is possible I am not measuring these angles correctly or ?
Has anyone "run into" this problem, and if so, suggest an explanation or
cure? Sure wanna keep that roll rate up to max! yeee-haaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark - -6A, 1st wing nearing completion (I hope!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wiza" <planejoe(at)ewol.com> |
| Subject: | Navid aid device |
I'm thinking about purchasing a navaid device (wing levler) the type that
can be coupled to a GPS. My question is has anyone installed this
particular wing leveler in the wing tip? If so was it practical, did it work
ok, any prints or info??
thanks ahead.
RV6A 100 hrs still grinin
planejoe(at)ewol.com
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
"RV List"
Hello,
I was starting to work on my fuel system and wanted a fuel filter for my IO
engine. Aircraft Spruce and Van's have filters which state "NOT FOR FUEL
INJECTION SYSTEMS." Spruce has one for with number 6 fittings but costs 89
dollars. It had a name of Flow Ezy so I did a web search and found they had
a site.
http://www.freeyellow.com/members3/flowezy/
Look under Racing Filters. It look like just what I want and at half the
price of ACS.
Filter 43.xx
Replacement screens 3.90
New O-Ring 3.00
It also has replacable or cleanable screens. The model I looked at had a 2
gpm (120 gallons per hours) hope my fuel flow never gets that high. Good
to 250 psi, my pump is rated at 25 or 35, I wil have to look that up but
seems to be plenty.
Anybody, tried one of these? Or any word on the Flow Ezy company?
Thanks,
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ: Network Problems To Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
My ISP is upgrading their network today 4/30 and tomorrow 5/1. I
noticed that Nameservice (DNS) went down last night around 3am which
causes all sorts of problems. If your message post was rejected between
about 3am 4/30 and 1pm 4/30, please repost as it was rejected do to the
DNS being down. I've redirected my systems to a different DNS server in
the mean time and things seem to be working right now. In any case, be
aware that there may be continuing issues over the next couple of days
both posting email messages and accessing the web server.
My ISP *promises* that things are going to be so much better after the
upgrade! We'll see... ;-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: an515-8r8 torque value |
Cleaveland Aircraft Tools, part no. SBZ-2, Zephyr ACR Phillips Bit #2,
ribbed bit for anti-camout -- $.90. Snap-On offers anti-camout bits but you
have to get an insertion bit and a removal bit if you go that route.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Date: Sunday, April 30, 2000 12:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: an515-8r8 torque value
>
>Hello,
>
>Checked archives and AC43.13 for torque values for an an515-8r8 screw,
>specifically the gas tank access plate ones. Does anyone know the correct
>value(s)
>
>Also, is there a special screwdriver point for this screw as I keep with
>little effort messing up the heads.
>
>Thanks,
>Vince Himsl
>Moscow, ID USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: an515-8r8 torque value |
In a message dated 4/29/00 10:34:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
<< Checked archives and AC43.13 for torque values for an an515-8r8 screw,
specifically the gas tank access plate ones. Does anyone know the correct
value(s)>>
I have a torque table from Ford Aerospace (which became Loral which became
Lockheed Martin) that has suggested general purpose torques for light duty
fastenings. It's at work so I will check it on Monday. My recollection is
that 8-32 steel screws into steel free running nuts is somewhere in the 12-15
lb-in range. To this value one must add the prevailing torque value created
by the locking thread to result in the actual recommended torque value.
Another thing you should consider is that "de-virgining" #8 nutplates takes a
bit of effort as you can imagine, but can be both productive and satisfying.
Just use some Boelube or anti-sieze (molydisulfide) compound on the first few
threads of each screw.
<>
The best tool for this job IMO is a replaceable tip screwdriver. They are
available at many hardware and auto stores and are characterized by a
hexagonal driver end that accepts a number of different hardened steel or
titanium nitrided steel tips. These tips stay good and sharp to grab the
cross recessed (Phillips) driving recesses. Use a #2 or #3 tip and, if
necessary, get some valve lapping compound to put in the recess. This
improves the torque coupling of driver to screw.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Florida RV builders breakfast |
can you put me on you email list
stan RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: an515-8r8 torque value |
>Checked archives and AC43.13 for torque values for an an515-8r8 screw,
>specifically the gas tank access plate ones. Does anyone know the correct
>value(s)
>
>Also, is there a special screwdriver point for this screw as I keep with
>little effort messing up the heads.
>
>Thanks,
>Vince Himsl
>Moscow, ID USA
Vince,
Van's kits used to come with a large amount of kind of pot metal looking
#8 screws. These didn't have very good "+" slots in them. You received
good advice on bits. I like "Snap On's" ribbed bits for taking out pesky
screws. I feel the S.O. is a little bit better than the bits that I got
from Cleavland.
When I was down helping John Danielson, we looked for these screws in his
parts assorment. He didn't remember getting any screws like I described.
He did have a lot of cad plated #8 truss head screws. Possibly Van's has
replaced these. I didn't use the supplied screws and replaced them with
stainless steel #8 truss head screws for in the cockpit and the cad plated
screws for other places.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel choices |
There were some poorly vulcanized tailwheels according to an AD. I think it
was for Maule. But this might be the case for your new Tail wheel.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Nielsen" <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 12:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: tailwheel choices
<Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
>
> >
> > It's time for a new t/w for my -4. Bad bearings & really
> > rough spots on
> > the tire. I've been basically happy with the original,
> > pivot-on-the-bent-tailspring, solid tire wheel. The plane
> > is 8 yrs old &
> > has around 500 hrs.
> >
>
> During my annual inspection last week, I replaced my original RV-6
> tailwheel with a new one from Van's. Today as I was pulling the
> airplane out, I heard a thump, thump, thump. Upon inspection, I found
> the tail wheel had a flat spot on it. (It wasn't that way when I flew
> on Thursday.) I haven't a clue as to why. The wheel had accumulated
> a total of 8 landings.
>
> Out with new, in with the old. I hope Van's will replace it.
>
> Mark Nielsen
> RV-6; 471 hrs.
> Green Bay, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Oil door latch alternatives? |
Hi,
I have seen several ideas on the list for a substitue to camlocks and
piano hinge for the oil door.
I am going to try the concealed hinges out of the Mc Master Catalog.
But as far as the actual latching mechanism goes; has anyone tried the
following?
1. "Push to Open" magnetic catch. Typical of the type you would see
on a stereo cabinet.
2. Push To Open cabinet catch. Operates like the magnetic type,
however it is mechanical and non-magnetic.
(obviously the biggest issue with #1 & #2 is that the door needs to be
supported on a flange which would prevent the door fron being pushed in
to open it.)
3. A spring loaded hinged inward access button (such as the type AC
Spruce sells for valve stem access on a wheel pant'd wheel) into which
you can put your finger to pull the oil door open from a tension catch.
I did like the idea of using the piano hinge/pull pin as a hidden method
of latching, however I didn't like the idea of having the oil door latch
hinge on the top of the door. I of course am still trying to figure out
a clean way of hinge latching the bottom of the oil door without
getting to carried away with a mechanism for it. I am trying to get the
hingepin to follow an arc, so I can have its pull point inside the
engine air inlet.
Please share your thoughts on this. I spent enough time on this cowling
(polyester resin type) and would really like to get it finished already.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stops |
s anyone "run into" this problem, and if so, suggest an explanation or
>cure? Sure wanna keep that roll rate up to max! yeee-haaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!
>
>From the PossumWorks in TN
>Mark - -6A, 1st wing nearing completion (I hope!)
Mark, I don't remember about the installation (plans at hangar & memory
shot) but my -6 was done per plans & had no interference. Speaking of max
roll rate, seems the aileron design is not favoring quick, full aileron
travel. When I do this, the aileron stalls & there is very noticable
pulsing of the stick. So I move about 80% of the travel and the roll is
just fine & the stick is still.
Rick Caldwell
-6 1st flight 1/3/00 & 50.4 grin generating hrs.
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: an515-8r8 torque value |
I used light machine oil (sewing machine oil) on the screw threads and
used a power screwdriver (Sears or Black & Decker type). the torque is about
right and the screws didn't gall. The biggest problem is that people tend to
over torque small hardware.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 05:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: an515-8r8 torque value
>
>
> In a message dated 4/29/00 10:34:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
>
> << Checked archives and AC43.13 for torque values for an an515-8r8 screw,
> specifically the gas tank access plate ones. Does anyone know the
> correct
> value(s)>>
>
> I have a torque table from Ford Aerospace (which became Loral which became
>
> Lockheed Martin) that has suggested general purpose torques for light duty
>
> fastenings. It's at work so I will check it on Monday. My recollection
> is
> that 8-32 steel screws into steel free running nuts is somewhere in the
> 12-15
> lb-in range. To this value one must add the prevailing torque value
> created
> by the locking thread to result in the actual recommended torque value.
> Another thing you should consider is that "de-virgining" #8 nutplates
> takes a
> bit of effort as you can imagine, but can be both productive and
> satisfying.
> Just use some Boelube or anti-sieze (molydisulfide) compound on the first
> few
> threads of each screw.
>
> < with
> little effort messing up the heads. >>
>
> The best tool for this job IMO is a replaceable tip screwdriver. They are
>
> available at many hardware and auto stores and are characterized by a
> hexagonal driver end that accepts a number of different hardened steel or
> titanium nitrided steel tips. These tips stay good and sharp to grab the
> cross recessed (Phillips) driving recesses. Use a #2 or #3 tip and, if
> necessary, get some valve lapping compound to put in the recess. This
> improves the torque coupling of driver to screw.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Argus MFD displays |
Richard Weaver from Aero Sport Inc. sent me great photos from the 3 Extra
300 cockpits. I noticed one of them (fully IFR equipped) had an Argus 5000CE
display that looked real interesting. After a search, I found that this is
an Eventide product. The price seems to be competetive (starting at ~2500)
and I like the small size and many functions - particularly the ability to
use it with an ADF as well as flightplanning stormscope, HSI, GPS's, etc.
Has anyone tried the Argus MFD's? If so, I would like to hear what you
think. I couldn't find any info in the RV archieve about this when searching
for Argus and Eventide.
Here's a link to the Eventide site with more info.
http://www.eventide.com/argus/argpage.htm
Regards,
Are Barstad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
| Subject: | engine questions |
Hi all,
I've got a couple engine questions if you don't mind. These refer to a new O-360-A1A
purchased
through Van's.
- The engine was test run at the factory, and came with long term storage. The
engine included a
new oil filter in the box. Am I supposed to install the new filter before I run
the engine, or save
it for the first oil change? The filter on the engine would only have an hour
and ten minutes of
running time, but I guess it might also be full of preserving oil.
- Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop, I removed the prop governor adapter and
oil line. Now I have
to plug up the hole where the governor adapter was, and I've been unable to find
a cover at any of
the local FBO hangouts. As it turns out, I have a perfect aluminum plate to go
over the hole, but
it has about a 3/8 hole right in the middle. I also plan to use an air oil separator,
and need a
place to run the drain oil back to the engine. Would there be any problem with
tapping the governor
plate hole for 1/4" NPT, and installing a hose fitting for the return oil? I'm
assuming there's
just crankcase pressure under the plate. Is that right?
Thanks for any advice.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (moving to the hanger next weekend)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navid aid device |
Joe Wiza wrote:
>
>
> I'm thinking about purchasing a navaid device (wing levler) the type that
> can be coupled to a GPS. My question is has anyone installed this
> particular wing leveler in the wing tip? If so was it practical, did it work
> ok, any prints or info??
> thanks ahead.
Well........now that you asked.......
Here is the info you are looking for:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
The installation detailed in the article now has a large diameter servo
pushrod. Anyone interested in the necessary adapters to fabricate the
pushrod, let me know and I will see if I can get our local machinist
guru to make up a few.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
----------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil door latch alternatives? |
I believe there is a lot of air pressure inside the cowl during flight. I
know an RV-6 where the cowl bulges out just behind the oil door about a
1/16". There is a 3" gap in the hinges that fasten the cowl to the boot cowl
at that point and the cowl flexes out. due to the internal pressure of about
180 mph.
When you design your revised oil door you should take this into
consideration.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 6:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil door latch alternatives?
>
>
> Hi,
> I have seen several ideas on the list for a substitue to camlocks and
> piano hinge for the oil door.
>
> I am going to try the concealed hinges out of the Mc Master Catalog.
> But as far as the actual latching mechanism goes; has anyone tried the
> following?
>
> 1. "Push to Open" magnetic catch. Typical of the type you would see
> on a stereo cabinet.
>
> 2. Push To Open cabinet catch. Operates like the magnetic type,
> however it is mechanical and non-magnetic.
>
> (obviously the biggest issue with #1 & #2 is that the door needs to be
> supported on a flange which would prevent the door fron being pushed in
> to open it.)
>
> 3. A spring loaded hinged inward access button (such as the type AC
> Spruce sells for valve stem access on a wheel pant'd wheel) into which
> you can put your finger to pull the oil door open from a tension catch.
>
> I did like the idea of using the piano hinge/pull pin as a hidden method
>
> of latching, however I didn't like the idea of having the oil door latch
>
> hinge on the top of the door. I of course am still trying to figure out
>
> a clean way of hinge latching the bottom of the oil door without
> getting to carried away with a mechanism for it. I am trying to get the
>
> hingepin to follow an arc, so I can have its pull point inside the
> engine air inlet.
>
> Please share your thoughts on this. I spent enough time on this cowling
>
> (polyester resin type) and would really like to get it finished already.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navid aid device |
> The installation detailed in the article now has a large diameter
> servo pushrod.
Hey Sam,
What prompted replacement with a larger rod? I have the 1/4 inch on
mine (wingtip mount) - course the wings are stored now while fuselage
works goes on.
Was there some bending and robbing the servo of travel?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stops |
Mark:
Just got done doing this myself. I didn't get the interference you mention,
mine was the lower bolt on A-406 touching W-414, which is fairly common, I
think. The interference you mention sounds like you can avoid by adjusting
the width of the spacers on A-407. I believe you can move the rod-end
slightly outboard, I believe this will solve your problem. Once you can get
the full 30 degrees up, then you can install the stop slightly before any
other interference comes into play. By the way, I had to relieve the W-414
aileron mount assembly slightly for the bolt interference I mentioned
previously. You might run into this once you fix your other problem.
On the bellcrank interference, I think if you start with the 1 3/16" neutral
position (measurement as shown on plan 19a), you shouldn't have the
interference you mention. Just a shot in the dark. Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Fuse on the way.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 6:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Stops
>
> Howdy!
>
> In checking my aileron travel (installing top skin tonight!) per the
> specs in section 15, when almost full "up" the pushrod heim joint bolt
> contacts the W-413 mounting bracket (look at dwg. 16, left middle detail
> where "+" shows bolt center next to mounting bkt. just under end of
> pushrod), and when almost full "down" the bellcrank contacts the
> vertical .063 angle that ties the rear of the 1/8" angles together. It
> doesn't seem like these interferences would make very good aileron
> stops- certainly not per plan. (bellcrank is mounted right way
> 'round!) It is possible I am not measuring these angles correctly or ?
> Has anyone "run into" this problem, and if so, suggest an explanation or
> cure? Sure wanna keep that roll rate up to max! yeee-haaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - -6A, 1st wing nearing completion (I hope!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ski2001a(at)aol.com |
Has anyone had any experience using Proseal that is out of date. I am ready
to seal my tanks and have a quart of Proseal from Van's that has never been
opened but the date on the can says it is 6 months out of shelf life. What
happens when the Proseal get old? Should I just can this and buy a new batch?
Tom Clark 80525
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rudder stiffner question |
i am confused as to the angles of the stiffeners i understand the tapered
part, length and the sort. however in vans drawings there is a discrepancy as
to the angle direction and i have seen pix that are also 180 degrees
different. does it matter which direction the angles are as long as
dimensions are correct?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal life |
ive uses stuff that was years out of date. if it can still be mixed it
works.
R. Burns
RV-4 N82RB s/n 3524
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ski2001a(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Proseal life
>
> Has anyone had any experience using Proseal that is out of date. I am
ready
> to seal my tanks and have a quart of Proseal from Van's that has never
been
> opened but the date on the can says it is 6 months out of shelf life. What
> happens when the Proseal get old? Should I just can this and buy a new
batch?
>
>
> Tom Clark 80525
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stiffner question |
In a message dated 4/30/00 10:59:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Bobpaulo(at)aol.com writes:
<< i am confused as to the angles of the stiffeners i understand the tapered
part, length and the sort. however in vans drawings there is a discrepancy
as
to the angle direction and i have seen pix that are also 180 degrees
different. does it matter which direction the angles are as long as
dimensions are correct????? >>
The angles have a 180 degree different orientation to stagger their webs. IF
you don't install them with this difference, the webs can hit each other
(primarily near the trailing edge), and will prevent you from forming the
trailing edge bend and closing the rudder. The same thing applies to the
elevators.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Electric Trim Clearance |
OK, I just finished the part I've been putting off, installing the electric
elevator trim servo in left elevator. Proud as a peacock about the
installation, I hooked it up to a battery and ran it stop to stop. My
problem is, when I run it all the way out, the arm where the rod screws in
makes contact with the reinforcement plate.
Any suggestions? I can't see mounting it any further back as that would
interfere with the spar. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
RV-6A (empennage almost done - waiting for wing kit to arrive)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navid aid device |
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
>
> > The installation detailed in the article now has a large diameter
> > servo pushrod.
>
> Hey Sam,
> What prompted replacement with a larger rod? I have the 1/4 inch on
> mine (wingtip mount) - course the wings are stored now while fuselage
> works goes on.
Mike, the wingtip installation is working perfectly, but Bob upgraded
the pushrod at my insistence. I just feel better having a stiff pushrod
in the aileron circuit that is far less likely to induce some sort of
weird resonance.
>
> Was there some bending and robbing the servo of travel?
Absolutely no problems whatsoever. The smaller pushrod probably will be
just fine, but I feel a lot better about the installation with the
larger pushrod. This is just an area where I had rather be conservative
in design. By the way, the 3/4", thinwall pushrod weighs about the same
as the smaller, heavier unit, but is MUCH stiffer.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine questions |
The 3 new Lycomings at FTG called lycoming and got the governor cover plate for
free.
Gary Zilik
>
> - Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop, I removed the prop governor adapter and
oil line. Now I have
> to plug up the hole where the governor adapter was, and I've been unable to find
a cover at any of
> the local FBO hangouts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim Clearance |
Just completed the same part myself & was wondering also. Ended up notching
the mount/cover about 15/16" back from the edge. The same width as the
original notch, only not tapered. Looks good & works.
L.Adamson RV6A finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Airflow performance |
Listers, I have 2 questions:
- I've completed the fuel lines from the wing root bulkheads thru the
valve, filter and Airflow performance fuel pump to the firewall bulkhead. I
want to run an air pressure leak check on the system, thought about 10psi.
since it's on the low pressure side of the pump. Does anyone know if the
Airflow performance pump can take air pressure? Any diaphragm, bellows or
such that might rupture?
- Can anyone explain if the Andair gascolator is worth more than double
the price of the other one Van's sells? I've never looked at the two types
side by side and can't tell from the catalog.
Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI
units.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim Clearance |
>Any suggestions? I can't see mounting it any further back as that would
>interfere with the spar. Any help would be appreciated.
Eric,
Just grab a round rat tail file and notch that bad boy out. The key here is to
not file past the doubler plate. I had to notch mine back about 3/4 of an inch
before it would reliably run back and forth without making contact.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( My engine is finally here!!! Yippee! )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine questions |
In a message dated 4/30/00 7:11:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv8(at)ispchannel.com writes:
<< I also plan to use an air oil separator, and need a
place to run the drain oil back to the engine. Would there be any problem
with tapping the governor
plate hole for 1/4" NPT, and installing a hose fitting for the return oil?
I'm assuming there's
just crankcase pressure under the plate. Is that right? >>
I would recommend not running oil return back to the engine. I have used a
Matco brake fluid reservoir to collect the condensate. Various attempts by
local builders to return fluids to the pressurized crankcase in this area
have not been successful.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal life |
Proseal seems to work fine for quite a while after it's expiration date, but
if it were me, I wouldn't risk it on the tanks. You want every advantage
you can get when sealing them because a leak can be a major headache. I'd
buy some fresh stuff, and you can use the older stuff on a myriad of other
things that aren't as critical as tank sealing. Windscreen fairings,
firewall sealing, etc. I have some that I used recently that's over 3 years
old, and it's starting to get really thick and sticky, but it does work for
general sealing chores.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
> Has anyone had any experience using Proseal that is out of date. I am
ready
> to seal my tanks and have a quart of Proseal from Van's that has never
been
> opened but the date on the can says it is 6 months out of shelf life. What
> happens when the Proseal get old? Should I just can this and buy a new
batch?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AV8R" <jhth(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 QB Landing Gear |
Anyone know of any "tricks" for drilling the outboard landing gear wear
plate holes on the RV-8 QB? Seems impossible to me without drilling holes
in the F-850/F-851 fuselage skins.
John Hall
RV-8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sheppard" <jtshepp(at)lvnworth.com> |
| Subject: | rudder stiffner question |
You want to overlap opposing angles slightly. When you "finish bend" the
control surface opposing angles might hit each other. No overlap could
result in the angles creasing the thin flight control skin while finish
bending.
John Sheppard
RV8 (sealing second tank)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 9:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: rudder stiffner question
i am confused as to the angles of the stiffeners i understand the tapered
part, length and the sort. however in vans drawings there is a discrepancy
as
to the angle direction and i have seen pix that are also 180 degrees
different. does it matter which direction the angles are as long as
dimensions are correct?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal life |
I just finished using some pro-seal that had an manufacture date of 8/97 on
it to attach the NACA scoops to the inside of my fuselage. It's been on for
three days now and is setting up just fine. Seems that when I did my fuel
tanks the pro-seal was already six or more months past the manufacture date
and they mantained pressure for more then a week using the ballon test.
Your results may vary.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (finish kit)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: Ski2001a(at)aol.com <Ski2001a(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, April 30, 2000 10:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Proseal life
>
>Has anyone had any experience using Proseal that is out of date. I am ready
>to seal my tanks and have a quart of Proseal from Van's that has never been
>opened but the date on the can says it is 6 months out of shelf life. What
>happens when the Proseal get old? Should I just can this and buy a new
batch?
>
>
>Tom Clark 80525
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Argus MFD displays |
>
>Richard Weaver from Aero Sport Inc. sent me great photos from the 3 Extra
>300 cockpits. I noticed one of them (fully IFR equipped) had an Argus 5000CE
>display that looked real interesting. After a search, I found that this is
>an Eventide product. The price seems to be competetive (starting at ~2500)
>and I like the small size and many functions - particularly the ability to
>use it with an ADF as well as flightplanning stormscope, HSI, GPS's, etc.
>
>Has anyone tried the Argus MFD's? If so, I would like to hear what you
>think. I couldn't find any info in the RV archieve about this when searching
>for Argus and Eventide.
>
>Here's a link to the Eventide site with more info.
>
>http://www.eventide.com/argus/argpage.htm
>
>Regards,
>Are Barstad
>
>
I've flown with an Argus 5000 (monochrome) for several long cross
countries. It was a fairly busy, but useful display. You can select which
types of data to show (airports, long range VORs, short range VORs,
airspace boundaries, airways, etc) to control how busy the display gets.
My only complaint is the convoluted series of multiple button presses you
need to use to get to various functions. There are only four buttons on
the right side, which access the main functions, but you also have to know
which combinations of two or three buttons you can press simulataneously to
access various secondary functions. This is OK if you fly with the unit
regularly, but it would be a trick to remember all this stuff in the heat
of battle if you only used it occasionaly.
You need some sort of GPS to tell the Argus where it is. If I was going to
have a GPS and a moving map, I would be tempted to get a Garmin GNS 430.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floor)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Lightening holes |
First, I asked the list...and someone suggested I ask van's...so I
did...Here's their response. Now I gotta figure out what they mean...I
think they're talking about 2xrivetdia etc...
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Risan <support(at)vansaircraft.com>
Date: Monday, May 01, 2000 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: Lightening holes
small lightening holes in the spacer should pose no problems so long
as you maintain adequate pitch distance from the fastener holes.
van's
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Lightening holes
> First, concerning the spacer that we have to build for the Rudder Spar?
SNIP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sliding Canopy Rear Track |
Listers: I'm fitting the sliding canopy frame on my RV-6 and have a
question about fitting the nylon (or whatever) rear track slider block to the
canopy frame. It's obvious that the slider block has to rotate as it travels
up and aft on the track, but the plans (SC-1) shows the block snuggled up
close to the square bottom of the weldment that it fits on. If that is done
there is no way it can rotate. On the other hand if I move it down far
enough so that it can rotate around the square bottom of the weldment there
is very little edge distance left for the mounting bolt. The solution
appears to be to grind the forward side of the weldment in an arc so that the
block can rotate around it, but there is no mention of doing that on the
plans, in Van's manual or in the Justice notes. What am I missing here?
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: engine questions |
Rv8'rs:
I went through these same issues too, same configuration.
As for the filter I had to remove the old one just to get at the #$%@# oil
cooler line fitting, so the new one went on.
On the governer, Bengilis suggests fabrictating a 1/4" alum plate cover for
it. I used a double layer of 1/8" plates because that's what I had
available. Our local EAA tech consuler thought that ok.
On the air-oil sep, I ran a drain line into the base of the plastic oil fill
tube, which I driled and tapped for 1/4" NPT. Again our EAA tech consuler
said that was fine, though another member who is an A&P would only comment
that the FAA would not accept it.
Greg Miller
RV8 QB N89GM, finally ready for prop (24 mo. 2200 hrs)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russell Duffy
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 7:03 PM
Subject: RV8-List: engine questions
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Russell Duffy"
Hi all,
I've got a couple engine questions if you don't mind. These refer to a new
O-360-A1A purchased
through Van's.
- The engine was test run at the factory, and came with long term storage.
The engine included a
new oil filter in the box. Am I supposed to install the new filter before I
run the engine, or save
it for the first oil change? The filter on the engine would only have an
hour and ten minutes of
running time, but I guess it might also be full of preserving oil.
- Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop, I removed the prop governor adapter
and oil line. Now I have
to plug up the hole where the governor adapter was, and I've been unable to
find a cover at any of
the local FBO hangouts. As it turns out, I have a perfect aluminum plate to
go over the hole, but
it has about a 3/8 hole right in the middle. I also plan to use an air oil
separator, and need a
place to run the drain oil back to the engine. Would there be any problem
with tapping the governor
plate hole for 1/4" NPT, and installing a hose fitting for the return oil?
I'm assuming there's
just crankcase pressure under the plate. Is that right?
Thanks for any advice.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (moving to the hanger next weekend)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sky-Tec Starters |
Anyone have any experience with the Sky-Tec starters on Lycoming engines?
How about other "after-market" starters?
Thanks
Bryan Jones
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oil cooler placement on baffling |
I would like to place my oil cooler on the left rear baffle, there's not that
much room on the firewall of the 4. Does anyone know where I could get plans
are some pictures of the cooler done this way.
Carey Mills
N286RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | routing the mix & throttle cable(help) |
I have a 4 and put vans throttle quad between the 402 and 403 bulkhead. I
wanted to get some idea's from other builders before I started drilling holes
in my firewall. I have the bendix injector and I was thinking of working
from there and going straight back into the firewall and then try to figure
out how I'm gonna get it to the quad. What do you guys think? I would love to
hear form someone who's done this before.
Carey Mills
N286RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil door latch alternatives? |
In a message dated 4/30/00 10:51:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
<< > Please share your thoughts on this. I spent enough time on this cowling
>
> (polyester resin type) and would really like to get it finished already. >>
Glenn,
Cy is right in that there is a higher pressure inside the cowl. Rich
Jankowski opens his door "in" rather than out and I am doing it to mine also.
You build a flange on the underside of the door, your hinge is concealed and
the pressure makes the door seal tighter.
Bernie Kerr, 6A N60WM ,inspection tomorrow, flying soon!!, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | rudder cracks, caulk, etc. |
Has anyone found the ideal solution (short of a new rudder) to stopping
cracks in the rudder at the stiffeners on existing a/c which did not
have caulk applied during assy?
Stop-drilling has proven to be only a stop-gap solution.
I suppose I can gently pry the cracks open & get some caulk in, but that
makes me uncomfortable.
Has anyone tried something like 'GREAT STUFF' spray foam insulation? If
there aren't any corrosion issues, I think it will be a lot easier to
get into the rudder, lighter, & it sticks like nothing I've ever seen.
Thanks
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> I have been carefully following the discussions on tire wear since I am
> observing similar wear patterns on the tires of my clipped-wing RV-9.
> Hopefully I have discovered some landing techniques that will enhance
> the wear characteristics of the Aero-Trainers on my plane.
>
> Great report Sam, your particular twist on this subject has once again proven
the
> usefulness of the "List", and changed my perspective, on my many tire saving
> arrivals.
Thanks, Garry/RV6 still finishing and finishing, like the pink drum pounding bunny.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | oil door latch idea |
Hi,
I have seen several ideas on the list for a substitue to camlocks and
piano hinge for the oil door.
I am going to try the concealed hinges out of the Mc Master Catalog.
But as far as the actual latching mechanism goes; has anyone tried the
following?
1. "Push to Open" magnetic catch. Typical of the type you would see
on a stereo cabinet.
2. Push To Open cabinet catch. Operates like the magnetic type,
however it is mechanical and non-magnetic.
(obviously the biggest issue with #1 & #2 is that the door needs to be
supported on a flange which would prevent the door fron being pushed in
to open it.)
3. A spring loaded hinged inward access button (such as the type AC
Spruce sells for valve stem access on a wheel pant'd wheel) into which
you can put your finger to pull the oil door open from a tension catch.
I did like the idea of using the piano hinge/pull pin as a hidden method
of latching, however I didn't like the idea of having the oil door latch
hinge on the top of the door. I of course am still trying to figure out
a clean way of hinge latching the bottom of the oil door without
getting to carried away with a mechanism for it. I am trying to get the
hingepin to follow an arc, so I can have its pull point inside the
engine air inlet.
Please share your thoughts on this. I spent enough time on this cowling
(polyester resin type) and would really like to get it finished already.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | routing the mix & throttle cable(help) |
I have a 4 and put vans throttle quad between the 402 and 403 bulkhead. I
wanted to get some idea's from other builders before I started drilling holes
in my firewall. I have the bendix injector and I was thinking of working
from there and going straight back into the firewall and then try to figure
out how I'm gonna get it to the quad. What do you guys think? I would love to
hear form someone who's done this before.
Carey Mills
N286RV
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Full-name: Rvmils
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 09:40:38 EDT
Subject: routing the mix & throttle cable(help)
I have a 4 and put vans throttle quad between the 402 and 403 bulkhead. I
wanted to get some idea's from other builders before I started drilling holes
in my firewall. I have the bendix injector and I was thinking of working
from there and going straight back into the firewall and then try to figure
out how I'm gonna get it to the quad. What do you guys think? I would love to
hear form someone who's done this before.
Carey Mills
N286RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Tip-up canopy questions |
Hi All,
Dwg 51 is sparse on details...
1. The C603 canopy side skin. Will Cretsinger says in his notes that the
aft end of the C603 should be positioned 3/8" aft of the front face of
the cabin frame. That would make it extend 5/8" aft of the F631A of the
canopy frame. That sounds kindof odd to me. What's the reason? Will the
canopy plexiglass extend back that far too? Perhaps someone could point
me to a photo of this part of a completed canopy?
2. How is the F631A canopy bow attached to the Wd625B canopy side frame?
According to the plans, there are 2 bolts that hold on the Wd622 canopy
latch. But that doesn't seem like enough to me. Surely there must also
be some rivets holding the canopy frame together?
3. What is the relative position of the instrument panel and the Wd616D
canopy frame tube when the canopy is closed? I haven't trimmed my panel
to shape yet, so I'm just not sure whether the tube should be forward or
aft of the panel top when the canopy is closed.
Frank.
RV-6, Marton, NZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Andy
Check your fuel vent lines. The symptoms you describe sound like a restriction
in
the vent system.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings smashing rivets
Boca Raton, Fl.
> snipped
>
> Still having a fuel pressure problem. I just installed a new FP sender after
> fluctuating to zero indicated pressure. After installing it, with only the boost
> pump on, pressure went immediately to a steady 4 lbs. With engine running it
went
> to 8-9 lbs steady. Thought the problem was solved. Then about 10 minutes into
a
> flight it started coming down slowly, all the way to zero. The boost pump would
> kick it up to less than 1/2 lb. The engine sputtered a little at low rpm. After
> shut down the boost pump by itself did nothing. Thought there might be a leak
but
> everything is dry and no odor. Fuel from the tanks and gascolator is also clean.
> I checked all the lines prior to installing the new sender. They were also clean.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument Lighting |
That company was Aero Enhancements, I believe they have a link via Van's
site, but that light was very expensive like $220.00, but it has a 9V
battery backup. I know Jeff Ludwig
from Jax Fla really likes it though.
Doug Gardner
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)mindspring.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
At sun and fun there was a booth displaying a light strip that put out a
really cool greenish blue light. It apparently attaches to the visor and
looked really good with my head under that blanket they were demonstrating
with. Lightweight, and looked simple to install.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Pitot tube mounting location |
Does anyone know what the closest location to the fuselage that you can mount
your pitot tube is? I'm thinking of experimenting with a pitot + static tube
off of a piece of scientific equipment ( good for readings down to about 28
knots ) but I need to mount it in the middle access cover which is about 42
inches from the fuse. I'm just wandering if this will put me in the prop wash.
Van's normally has you locate it about a foot farther out.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( fuse )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William M. Costello" <wmcent(at)enteract.com> |
| Subject: | ANR upgrade kit for David Clark and others |
Hi Glenn,
The company is called Headsets, Inc. I bought a kit at
Oshkosh
from a rep for the company:
Morris Morgan
Authorized Representative
ANR Headsets
2955 Fawn Drive
Burllington, KY 41005
606-466-6022
check out his site:
http://www.anr-headsets.com
I moved shortly after Osh and haven't completed the
installation,
which I hope to do so soon.
I recall a number of people saying they work great.
The installation is not falling-off-a-log easy. You have
to drill a
hole in the plastic earcup. You should have a
volt-ohmmeter and
know how to figure electrical circuits somewhat. Soldering
is also
required.
I have built a few amatuer radio pieces, so have some
experience.
Don't get me wrong, it is not rocket science! And, if all
else fails
you can send the whole thing to them and they will do it
for a price.
Speaking of price, I can't remember, but I think it was
$150 to
$200.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
WMCEnt(at)enteract.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
I have that system in my airplane. Aero Enhancements power supply is
running the panel lights and the glareshield lights that they offer. Stay
tuned for a much cheaper version to come out in the near future. I am
working with a company to provide the same system for much less.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 6:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
>
> That company was Aero Enhancements, I believe they have a link via Van's
> site, but that light was very expensive like $220.00, but it has a 9V
> battery backup. I know Jeff Ludwig
> from Jax Fla really likes it though.
>
> Doug Gardner
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)mindspring.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2000 8:22 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
>
>
> At sun and fun there was a booth displaying a light strip that put out a
> really cool greenish blue light. It apparently attaches to the visor and
> looked really good with my head under that blanket they were demonstrating
> with. Lightweight, and looked simple to install.
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine questions |
> I would recommend not running oil return back to the engine. I have used a
> Matco brake fluid reservoir to collect the condensate. Various attempts by
> local builders to return fluids to the pressurized crankcase in this area
> have not been successful.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
This is good advice. In fact, Lycoming told me to forget about the air oil separator
because it
would allow some water to be drained back to the engine rather than dumped overboard.
I've gotta
admit, I never thought of that. I can't see a problem with using a dedicated reservoir
for the
waste liquid though. I'll try it the old fashion way first, and if the belly gets
too dirty, maybe
I'll use the separator with it's own reservoir.
I was able to order a cover for the governor adapter hole in the case through a
local FBO. For the
sake of the archives, the part number is 69106 for the cover, and 69551 for the
gasket. These
should fit an O-360-A1A.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (Moving to the hanger this weekend- won't be long now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 QB Landing Gear |
John...
You got it right. That is the only way I have heard of, so far. Not a
problem tho.. later you are gonna cover it with a fairing anyway.
Dick White
RV-8QB systems
Newport OR
----- Original Message -----
From: AV8R <jhth(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 4:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 QB Landing Gear
>
> Anyone know of any "tricks" for drilling the outboard landing gear wear
> plate holes on the RV-8 QB? Seems impossible to me without drilling holes
> in the F-850/F-851 fuselage skins.
>
> John Hall
> RV-8QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Rear Track |
In a message dated 5/1/00 11:03:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Listers: I'm fitting the sliding canopy frame on my RV-6 and have a
question about fitting the nylon (or whatever) rear track slider block to
the
canopy frame. It's obvious that the slider block has to rotate as it
travels
up and aft on the track, but the plans (SC-1) shows the block snuggled up
close to the square bottom of the weldment that it fits on. If that is done
there is no way it can rotate. On the other hand if I move it down far
enough so that it can rotate around the square bottom of the weldment there
is very little edge distance left for the mounting bolt. The solution
appears to be to grind the forward side of the weldment in an arc so that
the
block can rotate around it, but there is no mention of doing that on the
plans, in Van's manual or in the Justice notes. What am I missing here?
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit stuff >>
Harry,
I just looked at my slider (Its in the dining room - is there any wonder why
I can't keep a girlfriend?). I have just under 3/16 edge distance on the
hole through the weldment. Also, I filed the forward portion of the weldment
slightly so the block would rotate.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up canopy questions |
1. Just trim it to match the cut line of the plexiglass. Make sure that
the rear skin butts up against it at the same angle.
2. It is attached with rivets. The bolts are to attach the canopy latch
catches. I don't have my drawings in front of me, but there is a place that
shows the rivet pattern.
3. The tube is aft of the panel when the canopy is closed. Be sure you
trim the panel just lower than the method described, or you might have some
contact with the frame.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank and Dorothy" <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 2:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tip-up canopy questions
>
> Hi All,
>
> Dwg 51 is sparse on details...
>
> 1. The C603 canopy side skin. Will Cretsinger says in his notes that the
> aft end of the C603 should be positioned 3/8" aft of the front face of
> the cabin frame. That would make it extend 5/8" aft of the F631A of the
> canopy frame. That sounds kindof odd to me. What's the reason? Will the
> canopy plexiglass extend back that far too? Perhaps someone could point
> me to a photo of this part of a completed canopy?
>
> 2. How is the F631A canopy bow attached to the Wd625B canopy side frame?
> According to the plans, there are 2 bolts that hold on the Wd622 canopy
> latch. But that doesn't seem like enough to me. Surely there must also
> be some rivets holding the canopy frame together?
>
> 3. What is the relative position of the instrument panel and the Wd616D
> canopy frame tube when the canopy is closed? I haven't trimmed my panel
> to shape yet, so I'm just not sure whether the tube should be forward or
> aft of the panel top when the canopy is closed.
>
> Frank.
> RV-6, Marton, NZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: engine questions |
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Miller <gvm(at)srv.net>
Date: Monday, May 01, 2000 9:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: engine questions
>
>Rv8'rs:
>
>On the air-oil sep, I ran a drain line into the base of the plastic oil
fill
>tube, which I driled and tapped for 1/4" NPT. Again our EAA tech consuler
>said that was fine, though another member who is an A&P would only comment
>that the FAA would not accept it.
>
>I used to do the same until someone convinced me to run it into a container
of some sort and take a look at what collects there. My engine had a fair
amount of blow-by at that time and was I ever surprised to see what I was
collecting. It looked like a bunch of water with a little bit of oil in it.
Not something I would want to recirculate in my engine. I'm sure a new
engine would not have as much water, but we are trying to turn them into
used engines, aren't we?
>Ivan Haecker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | G1159MEK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal life |
For the aerodynamic sealing, out of date sealant will be fine but for fuel
tanks it is better to be safe than sorry. We use proseal quite a lot in our
hangar on our jets. To be "legal" we have to reject any "prc" as we call it,
due to the FAA PRC is not that expensive so just buy a new quart and your
worries will be gone. They also come in tubes to be used with a sealant gun,
I think the sizes are 8oz or 4oz. One thing that is important is to mix the
sealant lots to get a good mix and so that the sealant hardens. Lots of
people say that temp is a major factor in set up time, my experience is that
any temp above 65 it does not need a heat source. If you are shooting the
stuff at a lower temp understand it will take longer to set up. That has been
my experience with the B-half sealant. Hope this helps.
RV-8 Tail on order
Mike A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul A. Rosales" <rv6a(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | oil cooler placement on baffling |
If you have access to 'Tony Bingelis on Engines', see Pg.
109 for a picture of Dave Anders' RV-4 installation to get
an idea of what it could look like. Paul
------Original Message------
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Sent: May 1, 2000 11:57:46 AM GMT
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler placement on baffling
I would like to place my oil cooler on the left rear baffle,
there's not that
much room on the firewall of the 4. Does anyone know where
I could get plans
are some pictures of the cooler done this way.
Carey Mills
N286RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR upgrade kit for David Clark and others |
I have had the Headsets,Inc. kit in my Peltor 7004 for two years. I think I
lost a little attenuation of the higher frequencies but the elimination of
the low end rumble is truly amazing. I never fly without them. I found the
installation instructions to be clear and easy to follow. Minor soldering
required. I had a problem with strange noises in the left earcup 6 months
ago and gave them a call which resulted in my sending them the headset for
repair (mic went bad). For $5.00 they repaired it and upgraded the battery
box and it's plug even though the unit was out of warranty. In my opinion,
if you are happy with your headset now, this is a good way to get ANR for
less money.
Ivan Haecker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard RV-6A N55HW" <der_Jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
My RV-6A is used regularily in IMC. However,
I strongly believe that anyone indulging in single-
pilot IFR needs at least a wing-leveler A/P to ease
the workload.
I installed a S-TEC System 30 with Altitude Hold.
It takes all of the work out of cross country and
when things get busy, it's a life-saver in anything
as twitchy (also know as very responsive to control
inputs) as an RV.
The System 30 can be coupled to either the Nav/LOC
receiver or the GPS and its worth it. I looked at the
Navaid unit but it has no altitude hold capabililty and
the way they mount the roll servo (under the seat instead
of out in the wing) induces pitch changes with heading
corrections. No thanks.
Howard RV-6A N55HW Flying 165 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 3:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: IFR
>
> I'm new to this list and have a question for those already flying. Is the
> RV 6 or 8 stable enough for instrument flight? I would not consider an
> aircraft that is as fast as an RV without being able to go IMC as the need
> arises. Is anyone out there flying IFR on a regular basis? Can it be done
> without an autopilot?
>
> Micha Froese
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jaugilas <jaugilas(at)allways.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR upgrade kit for David Clark and others |
My cousin had done this to his David Clarks a year or two ago and gave such a
good review that I decided to jump in also.
I have just completed mine a few weeks ago.
I do not have a David Clark headset. I have a Flightcom 4DX.
They have a kit that can fit many different existing sets.
With their set you basically replace the entire guts. You only use the mike
and the volume control.
Bill Costello is right you have to be comfortable with wiring and soldering to
complete this easily. If not, as with a lot of skills in homebuilding, can be
learned with a little time. It took me a little over an hour to do once I
understood what I needed to do. My Flightcoms needed the ground reversed from
the volume control to one common ground. That is a slight basic difference in
wiring just like a negative ground in a car opposed to a positive ground.
David Clarks are straight forward with no changes.
They also strongly suggest to install gel ear seals. Besides being much more
comfortable, they seal your ear better to reduce the noise even before the ANR
takes effect thus greatly improving the overall performance.
I work in a high tech machine control industry. I see and do many new things.
But sometimes you run into a simple device that just tickles your fancy. This
was one for me. When you flip the switch to activate the ANR, the low
frequency noise simply goes away. I kinda, sorta, smile and giggle with
amazement. I guess there is still a little kid inside me.
Price was $169.00 if I remember correctly. I had to wait a couple weeks for
delivery because they were out of stock at the time. This was before Sun n
Fun.
I can now tease my cousin that I have a black pair of David Clarks that say
Flightcom on them.
Bill Jaugilas
"William M. Costello" wrote:
>
> Hi Glenn,
>
> The company is called Headsets, Inc. I bought a kit at
> Oshkosh
> from a rep for the company:
> Morris Morgan
> Authorized Representative
> ANR Headsets
> 2955 Fawn Drive
> Burllington, KY 41005
> 606-466-6022
> check out his site:
> http://www.anr-headsets.com
>
> I moved shortly after Osh and haven't completed the
> installation,
> which I hope to do so soon.
>
> I recall a number of people saying they work great.
> The installation is not falling-off-a-log easy. You have
> to drill a
> hole in the plastic earcup. You should have a
> volt-ohmmeter and
> know how to figure electrical circuits somewhat. Soldering
> is also
> required.
>
> I have built a few amatuer radio pieces, so have some
> experience.
> Don't get me wrong, it is not rocket science! And, if all
> else fails
> you can send the whole thing to them and they will do it
> for a price.
>
> Speaking of price, I can't remember, but I think it was
> $150 to
> $200.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Bill Costello
> WMCEnt(at)enteract.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sky-Tec Starters |
Bryan,
I have the Sky-Tec Starter on my 160 HP -6. About 4 years on it and wouldn't leave
home without it.
Todd tmrv6(at)webcombo.net RV-6 Flying in Southern MD
"Jones, Bryan D." wrote:
>
> Anyone have any experience with the Sky-Tec starters on Lycoming engines?
> How about other "after-market" starters?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bryan Jones
> Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up canopy questions |
frank
<< 2. How is the F631A canopy bow attached to the Wd625B canopy side frame?
According to the plans, there are 2 bolts that hold on the Wd622 canopy
latch. But that doesn't seem like enough to me. Surely there must also
be some rivets holding the canopy frame together?
i used 4 rivits plus the 2 bolts on each side
3. What is the relative position of the instrument panel and the Wd616D
canopy frame tube when the canopy is closed? I haven't trimmed my panel
to shape yet, so I'm just not sure whether the tube should be forward or
aft of the panel top when the canopy is closed. >>
the rear tube will sit about 1" aft of the panel
hope this helps, just did this last weekend
know i'm fiberglassing the canopy weldment for stiffening
scott
tampa
6a tipper gooey, sticky, icky, fingers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: RV-6A WIng and Empennage Kits |
Bob,
Thanks for getting back to me.
Please let me know ASAP if the deal falls through. I am presently negotiating
a purchase of another rv6 kit. Thanks and good luck.
Rick Gray 740-678-8031 (Ohio)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine gurus please read |
dear listers,
i think i found an engine for my 6a, i know absoultly nothing about this
engine other than what the seller is telling me, see below. please read his
statements and give me your thoughts, that kind of money i would like an
informed opionion.
thanks, please remember this is going into a 6a , hopefully a constant speed
prop.
thanks, see below
scott
tampa
6a tipper
Dear Scott,
Yes, I still have the engine in my hangar. Some basic Background on this
engine:
The first question asked could be, what is the total time on the engine.
That cannot be answered because the crankshaft and cases came from a
Mooney engine whose
cylinders I did not want to use (standard O-360 parallel valve). The
Crankshaft is a Constant
Speed and the drive lugs are set for a Hartzell. The lugs can be replaced to
fit either a fixed pitch prop or a constant speed prop of different
manufacturer. I went with the thicker barrel O-540 cylinders (same mounting
and fit as O-360-essentially the same except the heavier barrel) because I
wanted a heavier duty cylinder and because I had recently had standard O-360
cylinders crack on our PA-28-180 Cherokee.
All overhaul parts are either Lycoming or Superior and are new, FAA
certified. All
the yellow tags are available. The O-540 Cylinders are Standard steel, but
two cylinders are bored oversized .10 and are set opposite to each other for
balance purposes. The rods are of course a matched set that came with the
crank. The pistons are new; the standard 8.5-1 compression. The cam shaft is
a reground which only says that the hardness existed to FAA specs, but was
resurfaced by Superior Airparts. The Cases were resurfaced by ECI in Texas.
What that means is that when an engine runs, the cases actually "move"
opposite to each other and "fret". Fretting is not a cause for rejection,
but
you can't get a good seal (and thus oil leaks) if the fret marks are allowed
to stay at overhaul and thus ECI puts them on there machine and they remove
.001 of the material on each mating half so you get a clean and precise fit.
The FAA Overhaul Engine shop that overhauled the engine is Gills
Engines, located at Stead Airport
(4SD), owned by Milton Gill. His phone number is (775) 972-0909. By the way,
the oil pump is aluminum, not the sintered steel. The shotgun AD the FAA put
out recently on the aluminum oil pump affected the O-235 to the O-360, but
the FAA left the O-540 out to stay with the Aluminum. I left it up to Gill-
and he went with Aluminum because in his experience, the Aluminum lasts
longer and the O-235's to O-360's have been running with them for 35 years
with no problems. If this upsets you, a change out is no big thing, but you
need to know.
What else can I answer? There are no accessories for this engine because
I was going to buy ALL NEW. I have a set of Bendix mags and harness you can
use for the SLICK magneto exchange program (worth $150.00 on a dual mag
purchase). The Starter ring gear is for a HOT prop. Meaning: IF you wanted
to
heat the prop for icing, the ring gear has provision for that. If you are
going to have a aircraft for day-VFR, I would exchange the ring gear for a
lighter
weight one.
The rear accessory housing is the same standard housing you will find on
the 235's
through the O-360's. There is a provision for the Vacuum pump-that special
gear pad is there as well as the housing for the constant speed prop
governor and dual magnetos. The bottom Sump housing has the Carb/injector
attach at the bottom
versus either side or back feed which the RV-6 cowl requires.
Here in Reno, The Flight Service Station is very picky on Experimental
aircraft employing FAA certificated and name plated engines and then putting
on non-STC'd parts for that engine. This is why the Lycoming data plate has
been omitted from the sump. IF you want to put on a Slick mag that will work
on your engine, but the O-360 data plate indicates a Bendix mag was used,
the
FAA inspector will flag the discrepancy and you will not be flying until you
get that specific Bendix mag and install it; with all ADs complied with as
well. This is ridiculous because the New Slicks are not only better than
Bendix but far cheaper and lighter. What about that great Airflow
Performance
Fuel injection system you can get for an O-360. Don't install it on a
"name-plated" O-360 because although the kit from Airflow performance is
simply fantastic, it IS NOT FAA certificated. This situation got so bad on
my
Long Ez, that on the Lancair 235 I recently finished, I simply removed the
data plate and had another one made up by a local engraver that stated the
engine was built by my Grandfather! No Ad's from Grandpa! All nonstandard
accessories APPROVED for flight and stated in the Engine log book and
everything was NEW-New Slicks/harness, Carb, Starter and Alternator, Fuel
pump! Let's go!
Well, let me know if this thing would work for you or if you have other
questions. The engine is in my humidity free hangar and no running time on
it
at all. The rocker covers and intake tubes are newly cad plated and the
engine is painted Lycoming Grey.
Sincerely,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | engine questions |
I have run mine to the oil return line on the left rear cyl. It works
great. This is a gravity return. I took the breather line and ran it just
above one of the exhaust pipes so that it burns any residue so that it
doesn't end up on the belly. Karl RV-8 Indy
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com [SMTP:Vanremog(at)aol.com]
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 04:27
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine questions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 QB Landing Gear |
Yes you must drill the skins. This is a problem with the Q B
-----Original Message-----
From: AV8R [SMTP:jhth(at)email.msn.com]
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 06:21
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 QB Landing Gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil door latch alternatives? |
Is the clearance there for a door to swing in AND be big enough for a big hand
to reach the oil stick while griping it ? ( This reminds me of a coconut monkey
trap....an coconut is chained to a tree with a hole large enough for the monkeys
hand only, a few rocks are placed in the coconut and when the monkey grasps a
rock he can't get his hand out). Also with all the plumbing for my air-oil sep.
and cooling tubes for mags and skat tubing running all over the place....I would
have liked to do this option but could'nt because of the junk under/around my
door.
Rv660wm(at)aol.com on 05/01/2000 07:06:30 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil door latch alternatives?
In a message dated 4/30/00 10:51:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
<< > Please share your thoughts on this. I spent enough time on this cowling
>
> (polyester resin type) and would really like to get it finished already. >>
Glenn,
Cy is right in that there is a higher pressure inside the cowl. Rich
Jankowski opens his door "in" rather than out and I am doing it to mine also.
You build a flange on the underside of the door, your hinge is concealed and
the pressure makes the door seal tighter.
Bernie Kerr, 6A N60WM ,inspection tomorrow, flying soon!!, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For sale - King Private Pilot Written Exam Videos |
Fellow listers:
If any of you are working on the private exam, my videos are for sale for
$75 and I will pay shipping. Respond off-list if interested.
thanks
Jack Rowell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler placement on baffling |
I put mine there.Fabricated a plate with a angle aluimun joggle to bolt to
engine case.This plate also acted as the rear baffle. I installed my cooler
skinny side up. I went to all the bother to do this and the engine temps are
within the green with the thing not connected. I removed the cooler and now have
a plate that I could lift my engine with........RV-4's - I remember reading -
do run cool anyway. Check the archives. I also figured I saved weight by
removing the cooler, have less #8 hose running in a tight cowl and less chance
of a oil line blowout. (I guess anything can be rationalized away )
Rvmils(at)aol.com on 05/01/2000 07:57:46 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler placement on baffling
I would like to place my oil cooler on the left rear baffle, there's not that
much room on the firewall of the 4. Does anyone know where I could get plans
are some pictures of the cooler done this way.
Carey Mills
N286RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sky-Tec Starters |
><bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
>Anyone have any experience with the Sky-Tec starters on Lycoming engines?
>How about other "after-market" starters?
>
>Thanks
>
>Bryan Jones
>Pearland, Texas
I just put a Skytec on my O-360 and LOVE it. Spins like mad and a LOT
lighter than the boat anchor Prestolite. I asked Skytec directly if they
sell remanufactured starters, in hopes of saving a few bucks, but their
email response said they don't normally carry them. I know they are out
there in other channels.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube mounting location |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Does anyone know what the closest location to the fuselage that you can mount
>your pitot tube is? I'm thinking of experimenting with a pitot + static tube
>off of a piece of scientific equipment ( good for readings down to about 28
>knots ) but I need to mount it in the middle access cover which is about 42
>inches from the fuse. I'm just wandering if this will put me in the prop
>wash.
>Van's normally has you locate it about a foot farther out.
>
I mounted my heated pitot inboard from the access cover to avoid tiedown
interference problems. That I may have mounted it too far inboard
worried me for many months. In MY airplane the location has worked out
fine. As far as I can tell my airspeed reads entirely normally.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
I agree that you don't really need to put the oil back into the engine. As
was stated, the stuff that collects is often 90% water and 10% oil. The
water is likely somewhat acidic too. Throw it all out.
On my 4 I tried to get away with just a breather tube. What a mess on the
belly. Then I made a very simple can, about the size of a soft drink can,
that attached to the breather line. Another line exited the cowl near the
exhaust pipes...just like it did before. I loosely filled the can with a
large piece of scrotchbrite pad. Screen, steel wool or other material would
also work. It gives the vapors something to condense on, i.e. more surface
area. Be sure to make your can easy to empty, although you really don't
need to empty much very often. Acro will burp more oil though. No more oil
on the belly. Obviously both lines are on top of the can...you don't want
the stuff that condenses to drain out 'til you empty it.
Be sure to put a "whistle slot" in your breather tube near the engine. That
will prevent the previously mentioned water vapors from freezing the vent
line shut and causing internal engine pressure to blow out your front seal.
That would be bad... messy at best...possibly fatal if you lose all your oil
over rough terrain.
For those who don't know: a whistle slot (no, it doesn't really whistle) is
a one inch slit, lengthwise not crosswise, cut in the breather line near the
engine, i.e. where the engine heat keeps it warm. You can tape a paper
towel over it loosely if it slobbers oil... however if you cut it with a
razor it will seal itself unless pressure builds up. Then it will open and
vent....just like it's supposed to.
Vince in Indiana
RV-4
HRII underway
________________________________________________________________________________
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/CategoryDisplay.asp?CatCode=32041 Is the URL to
Moroso
performance parts. I used the filter with the finger screen & a Earls #8 to #6
AN adapter. Great
product.
There are three (at least) Rv's in the north east and mine that are running
these filters.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly |
Posting]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil door latch alternatives? |
In a message dated 5/2/00 10:22:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Is the clearance there for a door to swing in AND be big enough for a big
hand
to reach the oil stick while griping it ? >>
Well I doubt if you hand is as large as mine. On the hand bubba scale I must
be a 8 or 9. I can palm a regulation basketball with ease.I have removed the
oil stick with door in place without any difficulty.
Bernie Kerr, 6A N60WM is now legal to fly as of this am, SE FLA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil separators |
> For those who don't know: a whistle slot (no, it doesn't really whistle) is
> a one inch slit, lengthwise not crosswise, cut in the breather line near the
> engine, i.e. where the engine heat keeps it warm. You can tape a paper
> towel over it loosely if it slobbers oil... however if you cut it with a
> razor it will seal itself unless pressure builds up. Then it will open and
> vent....just like it's supposed to.
>
> Vince in Indiana
Excellent idea, and very timely.
It was mentioned on the list recently, but Lycoming also made a point of telling
me to fill the
engine only to 6 quarts to prevent unnecessary oil loss. They said the 8 quart
limit was to satisfy
an FAA requirement for duration of flight with the most worn out engine imaginable.
In his words,
"the engine is happiest at 6 quarts".
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (I was hoping it really whistled)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Re: New rumor |
FYI. Our avionics should get quite a bit more accurate now.
scot
>>> May 1, 2000
>>>
>>> STATEMENT BY THE PRESIDENT REGARDING THE UNITED STATES? DECISION TO STOP
>>> DEGRADING GLOBAL POSITIONING SYSTEM ACCURACY
>>>
>>> THE WHITE HOUSE
>>>
>>> Office of the Press Secretary
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________________
>>> For Immediate Release May 1, 2000
>>>
>>> STATEMENT BY THE PRESIDENT REGARDING
>>> THE UNITED STATES? DECISION TO STOP DEGRADING
>>> GLOBAL POSITIONING SYSTEM ACCURACY
>>>
>>> Today, I am pleased to announce that the United States will stop the
>>> intentional degradation of the Global Positioning System (GPS) signals
>>> available to the public beginning at midnight tonight. We call this
>>> degradation feature Selective Availability (SA). This will mean that
>>> civilian users of GPS will be able to pinpoint locations up to ten times
>>> more accurately than they do now. GPS is a dual-use, satellite-based
>>> system that provides accurate location and timing data to users worldwide.
>>> My March 1996 Presidential Decision Directive included in the goals for
>>> GPS
>>> to: ?encourage acceptance and integration of GPS into peaceful civil,
>>> commercial and scientific applications worldwide; and to encourage private
>>> sector investment in and use of U.S. GPS technologies and services.? To
>>> meet these goals, I committed the U.S. to discontinuing the use of SA by
>>> 2006 with an annual assessment of its continued use beginning this year.
>>>
>>> The decision to discontinue SA is the latest measure in an on-going effort
>>> to make GPS more responsive to civil and commercial users worldwide. Last
>>> year, Vice President Gore announced our plans to modernize GPS by adding
>>> two new civilian signals to enhance the civil and commercial service.
>>> This
>>> initiative is on-track and the budget further advances modernization by
>>> incorporating some of the new features on up to 18 additional satellites
>>> that are already awaiting launch or are in production. We will continue
>>> to
>>> provide all of these capabilities to worldwide users free of charge.
>>>
>>> My decision to discontinue SA was based upon a recommendation by the
>>> Secretary of Defense in coordination with the Departments of State,
>>> Transportation, Commerce, the Director of Central Intelligence, and other
>>> Executive Branch Departments and Agencies. They realized that worldwide
>>> transportation safety, scientific, and commercial interests could best be
>>> served by discontinuation of SA. Along with our commitment to enhance GPS
>>> for peaceful applications, my administration is committed to preserving
>>> fully the military utility of GPS. The decision to discontinue SA is
>>> coupled with our continuing efforts to upgrade the military utility of our
>>> systems that use GPS, and is supported by threat assessments which
>>> conclude
>>> that setting SA to zero at this time would have minimal impact on national
>>> security. Additionally, we have demonstrated the capability to
>>> selectively
>>> deny GPS signals on a regional basis when our national security is
>>> threatened. This regional approach to denying navigation services is
>>> consistent with the 1996 plan to discontinue the degradation of civil and
>>> commercial GPS service globally through the SA technique.
>>>
>>> Originally developed by the Department of Defense as a military system,
>>> GPS
>>> has become a global utility. It benefits users around the world in many
>>> different applications, including air, road, marine, and rail navigation,
>>> telecommunications, emergency response, oil exploration, mining, and many
>>> more. Civilian users will realize a dramatic improvement in GPS accuracy
>>> with the discontinuation of SA. For example, emergency teams responding
>>> to
>>> a cry for help can now determine what side of the highway they must
>>> respond
>>> to, thereby saving precious minutes. This increase in accuracy will allow
>>> new GPS applications to emerge and continue to enhance the lives of people
>>> around the world.
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tip-up canopy questions |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
> Dwg 51 is sparse on details...
>>
> Frank.
> RV-6, Marton, NZ
> 1. The C603 canopy side skin. Will Cretsinger says in his notes that
> the aft end of the C603 should be positioned 3/8" aft of the front face
> of the cabin frame. That would make it extend 5/8" aft of the F631A of
> the canopy frame. That sounds kindof odd to me. What's the reason? Will
> the canopy plexiglass extend back that far too? Perhaps someone could
> point me to a photo of this part of a completed canopy?
Your side skin will need to stop at the front of the roll bar, so the 2
screws WILL go in the feet. I used #8 forward & #10's aft (under the
skin). I did own #8 dimple dies. Will & the factory uses that term
"canopy frame" wrong, I think. Drwg 51 shows the canopy glass cut aft of
the forward face of the "roll bar". If you follow the drwg down you can
see plexi has to be aft of the 603 side skin. that is what I did. Now
Will talks about a targa strip that will cover the crack. I plane on
getting wet & did without the strip so my glass goes past the side skin a
little.
> 2. How is the F631A canopy bow attached to the Wd625B canopy side
> frame?> According to the plans, there are 2 bolts that hold on the
Wd622
> canopy latch. But that doesn't seem like enough to me. Surely there
must
> also be some rivets holding the canopy frame together?
I used 4 rivets , 2 on each side of the hold down gizmos.
> 3. What is the relative position of the instrument panel and the
> Wd616D canopy frame tube when the canopy is closed? I haven't trimmed
my
> panel to shape yet, so I'm just not sure whether the tube should be
> forward or aft of the panel top when the canopy is closed.
Your panel will be 1/4 below the extended line from the 601/668 subpanel
& just forward of the tube.
I think the best way to fit the frame is:
BOW TO ROLL BAR
clamp the bow its 1/4 inch from the roll bar that is bolted down &
supported by the 632 brace. Make sure it lines up the roll bar . The
plexi needs to fit both the bow & the roll bar. final fit with the splice
plate at the top.
SIDE FRAMES
Bend the 625 sides to fit the longeron curves. attach the 1/8 shims to
keep the frame above the longerons. Now attach the 625's to the bow.
Leave room in the center for the 2 bolts on each side for the hooks.
WELDMENT
Clamp at least 3 extended angles from the 601 over the 668 past the tube
on the weldment.
The weldment needs to be clamped 5/8's from the 668. Fit the width of the
weldment for the center splice plate. Now you can fit the 2 side splices
for the side frames.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Gas Tank Test Tips |
Hello,
For a cheap and very effective leak detector, pick up a pint or two of "Mr.
Bubble"...yep, the kids bubble toy. I had the official "SNOOP" so I could
make a comparison. Snoop dries clean but considering the price savings, a
quick rinse with the hose is no problem.
Use the leak test to calibrate your gas caps. I turned the adjustment nut
1/4 turn past the point of no leaking. Once adjusted you may want to put
some sealant along the base of the adjustment nut to keep leaks from coming
up through the center.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | G Meter for sale |
Fellow Listers:
I have a new 2 1/4" G meter that I decided not to install (just ran out of
room on the panel). The first $175 gets it (shipping included).
Contact me off list.
Doug Weiler
RV-4
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Tue, 02 May 2000 10:43:11.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re-Post of David Clark Headset ANR kit |
05/02/2000 10:50:04 AM
This is a repost as it bounced yesterday.
>
>
> headsetsinc.com is the manufacturer, the same ones can be ordered through
a
> distributer a little cheaper at: http://www.anr-headsets.com/
> The service at anr-headsets is great and the web site is now secure. I
> ordered one set some time last year and skeptically tried it out, it is
> WONDERFULL! I since ordered a second set and have just (this past
weekend)
> converted over my other David-Clark H10-20 set and installed power
supplies
> in the plane so I have no need to use batteries. I highly recommend
them.
> I do have an awful lot of electronics experience (I am an EE), but one of
> the software engineers (bit head) who hardly knows not to grab the hot
end
> of a soldering iron converted his headset successfully as well, so I
think
> that most people should be able to do the conversion.
>
> Scott Fink
>
>
> The instructions are
> excellent and the service is good. Contact: 800-876-3374,
> www.headsetsinc.com. I don't have one, but am going to order one next
month
> (credit card needs to cool off)!
>
> Bill Christie, RV8A Wings, Phoenix
>
> > Hi,
> > Is anyone familiar with a kit that will upgrade a set of David Clark
> > headsets to noise cancelling types?
> > -Glenn Gordon
>
>
>-------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
> 5-2-00
>
> HI''
> I enjoyed meeting many of you fellows, with your beautifull RV's..; It
> was nice to meet
> Sam Buchanan, thanks for the tips you gave me on connecting the
> Nav-aid..
> Have a question, on Instruments for my pannel; oon the primary
> Insutrments, should
> I buy the Ligthted ones? Vacumm or Electric...there is a big
> difference in prices..
Bert, I vote for all electric - keeps you from having to plumb lines for
vacuum system. One thing I have learned is that EVERYTHING you add to this
project adds time - often more than you think and in ways you don't expect.
There's something to be said for keeping it simple. As far as lighting, I
declined internal lighting where possible and assured that all instrument
lighting etc. was connected to a dimmer. I have heard that reflection of
lights off the canopy can be a problem.
Good luck,
Jerry Carter
My RV-8A Web Site:
http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Occum's Razor and fuel pressure |
The is a mathmatical postulate called Occum's Razor (I think that's what it's
called) that says: For any problem, start with the simplest possible solution
and then work towards the most complex.
These are good words, and not just for mathematicians, but for the rest of us
as well.
Over the past 2 months I've been plagued by a fuel pressure problem, that even
with a lot of help from right here on this list, I just couldn't figure out.
The indicated pressure would slowly fluctuate all over the scale but finally
end up at zero by the end of each flight. (Or in other words, when it got too
close to zero, I made it the end of the flight.)
I looked for blocked vents and lines, removing and inspecting every one of
them, and the boost pump and gascolator too. Everything was clean. I replaced
the FP sender (at no charge) which Mitchell said was a bit off. I tested each
fuel port for flow and pressure using a manual FP guage. Everything was
absolutely clean and worked, except that zero FP indication 15 minutes into
each flight. All that was left was the guage itself and the engine driven
pump. I really hesitated to pull the mechanical pump. It was new when I
installed it and has less than 100 hours. It would have also been the most
expensive and difficult part to deal with. I decided to pull both the sender
and guage and send them once again back to Mitchell, this time as a set for
inspection and calibration.
On removing it, I discovered that the power lead into it was loose at the oil
pressure gauge, the place from where the FP power comes. The nut on the guage
was half unwound on the oil pressure guage terminal. My oil pressure gauge
always gave consistent and proper readouts. I was leary that this was the
culprit since the intermittency during ground testing came with just hose
removal and reinstallation, without getting anywhere near the gauge or causing
any shaking or vibration that would have altered the contact of the lead to
the gauge.
But, anyway, I tightened the lead nut, this time with a lock washer, and
retested the system. A steady 4 lbs with the boost pump, up to a steady 9 lbs
with the engine on. Closed the fuel valve; down to 1 lb. Open the fuel valve;
back to 9 lbs. Same on the other tank. Closed up the cowl and decided to stay
real close to the airport. During almost an hour's flight it stayed at 9 lbs
as solid as a rock. Switching tanks, prolonged steep banks, 3-4 Gs; everything
seems OK. (For good this time, I hope)
A lot of brain power from a lot of people went into trying to figure out this
problem. The answer turned out to be the simplest solution there could
possibly be. So simple that not a single person including myself ever thought
about it.
It is true that even the most complex problem have the simplest solutions.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
RV-6A N-5060 flying (again, finally)
RV-X (waiting to do it again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 6/6A QB deliveries |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
After reading a recent post about a conversation someone had with Van at SNF
regarding the long lead times for 6/6A QB kits, and Van's response that he
wasn't aware of the problem, I was fairly stunned to get a letter from Van
today admitting the problem and his lack of awareness of it. AND - that they
were speeding up production on these kits and that the kit destined for me
would now be shipped sometime between 5/15 and 5/24. It was originally
scheduled to be shipped "June/July" Apparently my garage is going to be full
of large airplane parts a lot sooner than I thought.
I guess it's time to finish that empennage!
Robert Dickson
-6A emp (accelerated)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler placement on baffling |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> I put mine there.Fabricated a plate with a angle aluimun joggle to bolt to
> engine case.This plate also acted as the rear baffle. I installed my cooler
> skinny side up. I went to all the bother to do this and the engine temps are
> within the green with the thing not connected. I removed the cooler and now have
> a plate that I could lift my engine with........RV-4's - I remember reading -
> do run cool anyway. Check the archives. I also figured I saved weight by
> removing the cooler, have less #8 hose running in a tight cowl and less chance
> of a oil line blowout. (I guess anything can be rationalized away )
>
>
Mr. Condon may have a good point in that with engines that have a good
supply of cooling air, an oil cooler may not be needed. As most of the
regular list readers already know, I run an IO-540-EXP at 322 HP with a
sealed plenum intake/exhaust system. I have to place a "baffle" over
the "radiator" section of the oil cooler that blocks somewhere between
1/3 - 1/2 of the airflow (I don't have the dimensions here at home,
they're at the hangar) thru the cooler to get oil temps. in the normal
range, even during a prolonged climb--tho none of my climbs are really
"prolonged"--10,000' in 3-4 min. This summer, I plan to disconnect the
oil cooler and put the engine thru her paces and see what the oil temps
turn out to be. I might be running an add for a used oil cooler and
plumbing at very good price--It'll fit a -360.
Boyd
RV S6
Osprey, FL
demonstrated aileron rolls, today, for some visitors--they may never go
back to Disney, again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | For sale - King Private Pilot Written Exam Videos |
jack, contact me off list. interested in exam materials!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cracks, caulk, etc. |
Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone found the ideal solution (short of a new rudder) to stopping
> cracks in the rudder at the stiffeners on existing a/c which did not
> have caulk applied during assy?
>
> Stop-drilling has proven to be only a stop-gap solution.
>
> I suppose I can gently pry the cracks open & get some caulk in, but that
> makes me uncomfortable.
>
> Has anyone tried something like 'GREAT STUFF' spray foam insulation? If
> there aren't any corrosion issues, I think it will be a lot easier to
> get into the rudder, lighter, & it sticks like nothing I've ever seen.
>
> Thanks
>
> Charlie
>
> flying -4
>
>
Charlie--
Tho I have the -6 with the big engine, I got cracks on the left side of
the rudder and the upper left elevator at the LEADING edge rivets at the
last (first forward) position of the stiffeners. They occurred at about
75 hrs--stop drilled with a 1/16" drill and no further problems at 190
hrs. I called Van's in a panic and then just said "stop drill 'em". I
have seen them -4's and other -6's and it seems to be an accepted but
not important problem with the original design. The plane has been to
250 mph and done Sportsman aerobatics with no problems. Of course, by
now, everyone should know to put a glop of RTV under the leading and
trailing edges of the rudder and elevator stiffeners.
Boyd
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
I posted this yesterday but never saw it show up on the list! OK, one more
time. Pat Kirkpatrick is offering his RV6A for sale:
1999 RV6A
113 TT airframe
1723 SMOH O-320E3D, 150hp, 130 STOH
Props Inc. wood prop
Full panel w/ gyros
Collins microline nav/com (no indicator)
loran
King KT78 digital xponder
dual landing lights with wig/wag flasher circuit
intercom
gray/charcoal interior
airframe not painted
elec flaps, elevator and rudder trim
5/2000 condition inspection underway
$60k OBO
aircraft located at AEG, Albuquerque, NM
Contact Pat Kirkpatrick at
pat.w.kirkpatrick(at)intel.com
(505)892-4929 home
(505)893-1990 work
(505)321-5410 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Accident NM |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers:
Doug Reeves alerted me to an RV-4 accident that occurred Friday at the
Los Alamos, NM airport. The NTSB report at
http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/s_0501_y.txt indicates the pilot was injured.
Rumor is that it was a loss of directional control type accident.
Lister Steve Judd, who lives in Los Alamos sent the following comments to
me:
>Los Alamos airport is on a mesa, much like the "USS Sedona" if you read
>Sam Buchanan's travelogue, except there's a big mountain at one end and a
>big restricted area immediately adjacent. The airport is one-way and the
>winds can be tricky on normal days, but spring winds here can be quite
>strong and gusty, and Friday was no exception.
Steve has put a newspaper photo of the wreckage up on his website at
http://www.ffd2.com/rv/rv4crash.jpg
In the photo, it appears most of the damage was to the landing gear, and
firewall forward. They identify the pilot as Marilyn Hughes of Pagosa
Springs, CO.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Accident NM |
> Los Alamos, NM airport. The NTSB report at
> http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/s_0501_y.txt indicates the pilot was
I saw the report and am glad Marilyn is OK. But one thing really struck me.
There were seven (7) accidents involving experimental aircraft listed under
May 2nd, some serious; some like Marilyn's, not so serious.
Is this typical? 7 accidents? .....on a Tuesday?
I've been around flying experimentals for a long time but never imagined this
kind of record.
Be carefull out there guys.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Accident NM |
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
>
> Doug Reeves alerted me to an RV-4 accident that occurred Friday at the
> Los Alamos, NM airport. The NTSB report at
> http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/s_0501_y.txt indicates the pilot was injured.
> Rumor is that it was a loss of directional control type accident.
>
> Lister Steve Judd, who lives in Los Alamos sent the following comments to
> me:
>
> >Los Alamos airport is on a mesa, much like the "USS Sedona" if you read
> >Sam Buchanan's travelogue, except there's a big mountain at one end and a
> >big restricted area immediately adjacent. The airport is one-way and the
> >winds can be tricky on normal days, but spring winds here can be quite
> >strong and gusty, and Friday was no exception.
>
> Steve has put a newspaper photo of the wreckage up on his website at
>
> http://www.ffd2.com/rv/rv4crash.jpg
>
> In the photo, it appears most of the damage was to the landing gear, and
> firewall forward. They identify the pilot as Marilyn Hughes of Pagosa
> Springs, CO.
Is that guy in the photo STOMPIN' on the poor RV-4???? Talk about
kickin' a good plane when it is down.....
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine questions |
> In a message dated 4/30/00 7:11:15 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> rv8(at)ispchannel.com writes:
>
> << I also plan to use an air oil separator, and
> need a
> place to run the drain oil back to the engine.
> Would there be any problem
> with tapping the governor
> plate hole for 1/4" NPT, and installing a hose
> fitting for the return oil?
> I'm assuming there's
> just crankcase pressure under the plate. Is that
> right? >>
My engine came out of a TriPacer. The Oil Separator
on the TriPacer did exactly as you say. It had a
tapped hole in the cover on the hole for where the
governor drive mounts. I still have the plate
somewhere as I converted to Constant Speed. I have my
oil separator running back to the engine into a tapped
hole that Lycoming had in the case. Works great after
540+ hours of flying.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Howard RV-6A N55HW wrote:
>
>
> My RV-6A is used regularily in IMC. However,
> I strongly believe that anyone indulging in single-
> pilot IFR needs at least a wing-leveler A/P to ease
> the workload.
>
> I installed a S-TEC System 30 with Altitude Hold.
> It takes all of the work out of cross country and
> when things get busy, it's a life-saver in anything
> as twitchy (also know as very responsive to control
> inputs) as an RV.
>
> The System 30 can be coupled to either the Nav/LOC
> receiver or the GPS and its worth it. I looked at the
> Navaid unit but it has no altitude hold capabililty and
> the way they mount the roll servo (under the seat instead
> of out in the wing) induces pitch changes with heading
> corrections. No thanks.
Well.......not necessarily. It is very possible to mount the servo under
the seat with a careful installation and not have any pitch coupling.
There are, however, several other servo mounting options. Mine is
mounted midwing in the inspection bay, and the slickest installation I
have seen is on a wingtip rib:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
The S-Tec is a nice system, but the Navaid works very well at 1/3 the
price, and couples beautifully with a handheld GPS or panel mounted
radio.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 withdrawal in progress....engine apart for
overhaul....details on the web site)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Howard RV-6A N55HW wrote:
> The System 30 can be coupled to either the Nav/LOC
> receiver or the GPS and its worth it. I looked at the
> Navaid unit but it has no altitude hold capabililty and
> the way they mount the roll servo (under the seat instead
> of out in the wing) induces pitch changes with heading
> corrections. No thanks.
>
> Howard RV-6A N55HW Flying 165 hours
Have to totally disagree with you Howard the Navaid works
great under the seat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: G Meter for sale |
>
> I have a new 2 1/4" G meter that I decided not to install (just ran out of
> room on the panel). The first $175 gets it (shipping included).
>
> Contact me off list.
>
> Doug Weiler
Sold it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Los Alamos Correction |
Listers:
Regarding my post on the Los Alamos RV-4 accident. Contrary to what I said,
the NTSB report says NO injuries. I was thrown off by the format where it
kind of says injuries: Pilot 1, but then it is a government form.
I am sorry for the error. The photo certainly did not look like there would
have been any injuries.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Bill Of Sale Questions |
I got my bill of sale from Vans yesterday and I'm not sure how to finish
filling it out. I assume I have to put the price of the kit and N number in,
but under the purchaser block its got a block that says
and to executers, administraters, and assigns to
have and to hold singularly the said aircraft forever, and warrents the title
therof.
(It sounds like they want me to marry the plane) Does anything go in this
blank and does it have to be notarized. I took it to a Notary and he
coudn';t figure out where to put the seal. Do I need to sign it anywhere.
Better yet, could someone scan a Bill of sale that the FAA has accepted.
Thanks.
Dave Beizer
RV6A Final Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: an515-8r8 torque value |
In a message dated 4/29/00 10:34:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
vhimsl(at)turbonet.com writes:
<< Checked archives and AC43.13 for torque values for an an515-8r8 screw,
specifically the gas tank access plate ones. Does anyone know the correct
value(s) >>
Here are the torque values (+00%/-20% tol) we used at my last company for
light duty fastenings using steel (or stainless steel) screws into steel
threads. If you are going into aluminum threads multiply by .75 (75%). If
going into a thread form having a prevailing torque feature, add the
prevailing torque to the tightening torque in the table to get the final
torque.
thread lb-in
0-80 1.0
2-56 2.0
4-40 5.5
6-32 10.0
8-32 20.0
10-32 28.0
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill Of Sale Questions |
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I got my bill of sale from Vans yesterday and I'm not sure how to finish
> filling it out. I assume I have to put the price of the kit and N number in,
> but under the purchaser block its got a block that says
I just put my N number in and left the price blank.
>
>
> and to executers, administraters, and assigns to
> have and to hold singularly the said aircraft forever, and warrents the title
> therof.
>
> (It sounds like they want me to marry the plane) Does anything go in this
> blank and does it have to be notarized. I took it to a Notary and he
> coudn';t figure out where to put the seal. Do I need to sign it anywhere.
> Better yet, could someone scan a Bill of sale that the FAA has accepted.
> Thanks.
Mine was signed by Van, no other signature required.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill Of Sale Questions |
The word "his" or "hers" goes in that spot. Mine was not signed, because
it came from my lender...but the FAA took whatever they submitted, and gave
me my N-number.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 7:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bill Of Sale Questions
>
> I got my bill of sale from Vans yesterday and I'm not sure how to finish
> filling it out. I assume I have to put the price of the kit and N number
in,
> but under the purchaser block its got a block that says
>
> and to executers, administraters, and assigns
to
> have and to hold singularly the said aircraft forever, and warrents the
title
> therof.
>
> (It sounds like they want me to marry the plane) Does anything go in this
> blank and does it have to be notarized. I took it to a Notary and he
> coudn';t figure out where to put the seal. Do I need to sign it anywhere.
> Better yet, could someone scan a Bill of sale that the FAA has accepted.
> Thanks.
>
> Dave Beizer
> RV6A Final Assembly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
Listers:
RV4 builder Jefferey Sharman at Nutree airport was good enough to ask me to
fly with him in his beautiful and very airworthy RV4. He has made some real
utilitarian changes to his bird, many make it more comfortable and also
safer. Just had to say THANKS JEFF!
I am building a 4 and sometimes you just get run down due to the never ending
list of things to accomplish along the construction path. After a couple of
hours in this airplane and the fine instructions and insight from Jeff, I AM
WORKING HARD AT THE PROJECT AGAIN. First RV ride, first Roll in an aircraft
.......WOW.
I recommend all you guys and gals building a project. Go out now and find
someone who will give you a ride. It will kick your A## like nothing other.
You will be energized and ready to work even harder at that project.
I was impressed at the ease of flight, the light yet very responsive
controls. It feels like a heavier airplane, not troubled by a little
turbulence, holds true once it is trimmed up. What a fantastic feeling and
to think that soon I will be flying one too!!
David Aronson
RV4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery |
Listers:
Has anyone used the small format Odyssey battery that Van's sells. I am looking
at
a smaller battery to help make room for my Airflow Performance booster pump. At
7
3/16 X 3 1/8 X6 5/8 this is the smallest with 600 cranking amps. A bit expensive
too.
Would appreciate anyone who has past experience with this battery to respond.
David Aronson
RV4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bill Of Sale Questions |
| From: | "Paul A. Rosales" <rv6a(at)juno.com> |
Hi Dave, Just got my 'official' Registration yesterday...You can send it
in 'as-is' from Van's, Notary not required, and other than Van's, no
other signatures are required either. If you have a reserved N number,
you can fill that in. If the bill of sale is in your name only, and
you'd like to add a co-owner, just add the name to the "Purchaser" block.
I failed to do this as I wanted my wife as co-owner (I did ask the FAA
to 'add' her when I sent the paperwork), and they sent me back the
original Kit Bill of Sale. They asked me to add my wife's name to the
purchaser block (they couldn't do it even though I asked). I did just
that, returned it and got my registration here 2 weeks later. Paul
>
> I got my bill of sale from Vans yesterday and I'm not sure how to
>finish
>filling it out. I assume I have to put the price of the kit and N
>number in,
>but under the purchaser block its got a block that says
>
>and to executers, administraters, and
>assigns to
>have and to hold singularly the said aircraft forever, and warrents
>the title
>therof.
>
>(It sounds like they want me to marry the plane) Does anything go in
>this
>blank and does it have to be notarized. I took it to a Notary and he
>coudn';t figure out where to put the seal. Do I need to sign it
>anywhere.
>Better yet, could someone scan a Bill of sale that the FAA has
>accepted.
>Thanks.
>
>Dave Beizer
>RV6A Final Assembly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid RV6 Seat Instal Again |
> What exactly could a guy do to install the Navaid Servo under the seat of
> an RV6 to have the least impact on the pitch travel of the stick?
Mount the servo as far forward as possible (but don't let the servo
mechanism hit/rub the push rod). Mine is mounted under the pax seat
pretty much per the Navaid plans, works fine, no observed pitch
coupling.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal life |
to all who use out of date proseal:
this is Glenn again responding to your "out of date
proseal" question. I say this with reservation but
here goes anyway. When I worked for K.C.Aviation in
Dallas we routinely had "proseal parties" where in all
out of date proseal was mixed and after hardening you
can simply throw it away in the trash can because it
is no longer a hazard to the environment. We had
proseal that was two years old that would set up.
However that said, let me say that as a preface to
your question any proseal that takes more than 24 to
48 hours to set up is probably not going to set up. As
a test take a little white and some black and mix on a
piece of scrap aluminum. If it sets up in 24 hours I
would use it on my tanks. If it does not set up you
may get it to "set" by using heated air on it. You
heat it up for about 5 minutes and then check on it
later in about 4 hours. If this has taken a "set" I
might use it on aerodynamic fairings, but in all
honesty I would throw that can of sealant out. Another
word of caution. Upon opening the black can mix it
thouroghly by itself as it is like oil and water, and
if you do not mix thix your proseal will not set up
even if it new.
Glenn
archive this one
--- Ski2001a(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone had any experience using Proseal that is
> out of date. I am ready
> to seal my tanks and have a quart of Proseal from
> Van's that has never been
> opened but the date on the can says it is 6 months
> out of shelf life. What
> happens when the Proseal get old? Should I just can
> this and buy a new batch?
>
>
> Tom Clark 80525
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | 2000 - The worse safety year in RV history? |
1996 - 12 incidents, 9 fatalities
1997 - 19 incidents, 3 fatalities
1998 - 12 incidents, 8 fatalities
1999 - 22 incidents, 4 fatalities
As of the end of April...
2000 - 7 incidents, 4 fatalities
In past years the RV accidents start happening in April and are heaviest
during the summer so we have only just barely begun to be in prime accident
period.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid RV6 Seat Instal Again |
> What exactly could a guy do to install the Navaid Servo under the
> seat of an
> RV6 to have the least impact on the pitch travel of the stick?
>
> I have seen this mentioned a few times. Is there some thing in
> particular to
> look out for when chosing the final location of the servo?
>
> Norman Hunger
Norm,
Check this out:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
I changed my plans to do an under-the-seat mount to Sam's wingtip
mount.
Installation went smoothly - I can't imagine an easier way in either
flying or building stages.
_Only_ down side is no in-flight adjustments.
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid RV6 Seat Instal Again |
> What exactly could a guy do to install the Navaid Servo under the seat of
an
> RV6 to have the least impact on the pitch travel of the stick?
>
> I have seen this mentioned a few times. Is there some thing in particular
to
> look out for when chosing the final location of the servo?
Just instal it per the plans. I'm not sure what problem other people might
be having, but everyone around here that has installed one (myself included)
have absolutely ZERO pitch input problems. In fact, I even installed mine
one rib closer to the center than shown (brain fart on my part, I had cut
out half of the rib before I realized it was the wrong one) and the arm
pushes even more fwd/aft than stock and there is STILL no pitch input.
So instal as shown, cut the *correct* rib, insure a straight run with no
binding, and enjoy.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal life |
glenn williams wrote:
>
> to all who use out of date proseal:
>
> this is Glenn again responding to your "out of date
> proseal" question. I say this with reservation but
> here goes anyway. When I worked for K.C.Aviation in
> Dallas we routinely had "proseal parties" where in all
> out of date proseal was mixed and after hardening you
> can simply throw it away in the trash can because it
> is no longer a hazard to the environment. We had
> proseal that was two years old that would set up.
> However that said, let me say that as a preface to
> your question any proseal that takes more than 24 to
> 48 hours to set up is probably not going to set up. As
> a test take a little white and some black and mix on a
> piece of scrap aluminum. If it sets up in 24 hours I
> would use it on my tanks. If it does not set up you
> may get it to "set" by using heated air on it. You
> heat it up for about 5 minutes and then check on it
> later in about 4 hours. If this has taken a "set" I
> might use it on aerodynamic fairings, but in all
> honesty I would throw that can of sealant out. Another
> word of caution. Upon opening the black can mix it
> thouroghly by itself as it is like oil and water, and
> if you do not mix thix your proseal will not set up
> even if it new.
>
> Glenn
>
> archive this one
>
> --- Ski2001a(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone had any experience using Proseal that is
> > out of date. I am ready
> > to seal my tanks and have a quart of Proseal from
> > Van's that has never been
> > opened but the date on the can says it is 6 months
> > out of shelf life. What
> > happens when the Proseal get old? Should I just can
> > this and buy a new batch?
> >
> >
> > Tom Clark 80525
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Hey Dave,
I expect a ride from you when *you're* done!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE (fuselage finally out of the jig!!!)
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: David Aronson [mailto:daronson(at)cwnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 9:19 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Thanks!
RV4 builder Jefferey Sharman at Nutree airport was good
enough to ask me to
fly with him in his beautiful and very airworthy RV4. He
has made some real
utilitarian changes to his bird, many make it more
comfortable and also
safer. Just had to say THANKS JEFF!
I am building a 4 and sometimes you just get run down due to
the never ending
list of things to accomplish along the construction path.
After a couple of
hours in this airplane and the fine instructions and insight
from Jeff, I AM
WORKING HARD AT THE PROJECT AGAIN. First RV ride, first
Roll in an aircraft
.......WOW.
I recommend all you guys and gals building a project. Go
out now and find
someone who will give you a ride. It will kick your A##
like nothing other.
You will be energized and ready to work even harder at that
project.
I was impressed at the ease of flight, the light yet very
responsive
controls. It feels like a heavier airplane, not troubled by
a little
turbulence, holds true once it is trimmed up. What a
fantastic feeling and
to think that soon I will be flying one too!!
David Aronson
RV4 N504RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR
>
>Howard RV-6A N55HW wrote:
>
>> The System 30 can be coupled to either the Nav/LOC
>> receiver or the GPS and its worth it. I looked at the
>> Navaid unit but it has no altitude hold capabililty and
>> the way they mount the roll servo (under the seat instead
>> of out in the wing) induces pitch changes with heading
>> corrections. No thanks.
>>
>> Howard RV-6A N55HW Flying 165 hours
>
>
>Have to totally disagree with you Howard the Navaid works
>great under the seat.
>
And the reason it works great under the seat is that in tracking or
wing-leveling mode the corrective input displacements are very small. If
you run the servo arm over its entire range you will see that there is
indeed a small component of displacement in the direction of the pitch axis.
However, in real life, the servo arm is making very small inputs -- way,
way too small to cause you to bust your +/- 200 feet allowance in assigned
altitude.
To achieve minimum pitch coupling the NavAid autopilot servo coupling rod
should lie as close as possible to parallel to the aileron push-pull tubes.
Note that any single-axis autopilot will loose a little altitude in a
commanded turn.
I believe that maintaining altitude in an RV is just as difficult as
maintaining heading, so in time I may upgrade my NavAid Devices A/P to a
two-axis A/P.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2000 - The worse safety year in RV history? |
How do the RV' accident profiles compair to other aircraft. We have about 2400
flying aircraft in the RV group. This has to be the highest in terms of
fininshed homebuilt types.
Are these accident numbers hi or low in terms of the overall number of
aircraft completed and the number of actual flying hours........
Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com on 05/03/2000 08:08:21 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: 2000 - The worse safety year in RV history?
1996 - 12 incidents, 9 fatalities
1997 - 19 incidents, 3 fatalities
1998 - 12 incidents, 8 fatalities
1999 - 22 incidents, 4 fatalities
As of the end of April...
2000 - 7 incidents, 4 fatalities
In past years the RV accidents start happening in April and are heaviest
during the summer so we have only just barely begun to be in prime accident
period.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | rudder cracks, caulk, etc. |
Several recent posts deal with cracking of the rudder/elevator
trailing edges. The recommendation to prevent this is to add RTV
during assembly to help brace the transition point between the
stiffeners and the skin at the trailing edge.
I built my rudder and, like many others, I remembered the RTV only
after I riveted the skeleton to the rudder. Now that I'm done with
beating my head against the wall, I've been trying to find a way to
add the RTV to a completed rudder. I have an idea that I want to run
by the list.
I'm thinking of taking a piece of 1/8 ID plastic tubing and taping it
to a small-diameter welding rod so that I can position the tubing. I
would then squirt RTV about 2-3 inches into the end of the tube, run
the rod/tube through the rod-end-bearing nutplate holes (3/8 inch?) in
the rudder spar, position the tubing end at the trailing edge at each
stiffener, and then use compressed air to blow the RTV out of the
tubing end into the gap.
I'll try it this weekend and let the list know the results. It sure
would have been easier to do it right the first time. I'll remember
it on the elevators ;-)
Bob
RV-8AQ Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Drilling the firewall |
After struggling with drilling the firewall and watching some other
folks go nuts with the holes for the larger pass throughs like the cabin
heat box, I found a good tool for this. Starret makes a series of
sheet metal hole saws which I bought to drill odd sized holes my
instrument panel, and I found that they do a burr free job on
stainless. The arbor is fairly expensive, about $12, as are the larger
saws, but it is far cheaper than trying to buy the large Unibits or
Carbide hole cutters. I get them fom J&L Industrial Supply.
Chris Browne
-6A firewall forward
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
I know from the archives that many have put a variety of antennae under
the forward cockpit floor. I want to mount the transponder or comm
antenna near the battery box, but was wondering if the engine exhaust is
hard on the plastic parts of the anenna.
Chris Browne
-6A
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Spin-on oil filter question |
I am about to order my engine from Aero Sport Power. I am trying to decide
what options I should order. I'm going to buy an O320-D2A from him and I'd
like to get the spin-on oil filter. Will it fit in an RV-4 that does not
have the cut-out on the firewall for the prop governer? Thanks in advance!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2000 - The worse safety year in RV history? |
>
>
> How do the RV' accident profiles compair to other aircraft. We have about
2400
> flying aircraft in the RV group. This has to be the highest in terms of
> fininshed homebuilt types.
> Are these accident numbers hi or low in terms of the overall number of
> aircraft completed and the number of actual flying hours........
>
I guess we can do a lot of playing with statistics. I also own a Citabria.
The current number of flying RVs and Citabrias are very similar (around
2300-2400). According to the NTSBs web site, Citabrias had the following
accident rate:
1998: 12 total, 3 fatals
1999: 25 total, 4 fatals
2000: 6 total so far
These numbers are very similar to the quoted rate on RV aircraft. I would
dare say that RVs are typically flown many more hours per year than the
average Citabria. Keep in mind that a new RV flies nearly every day (lets
say at least 300 per year). American Champion built 91 airplanes in 1999.
Just food for thought.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
RV-4 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filter question |
Yes. I used the smaller spin-on too for a little bit more room.
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com on 05/03/2000 01:13:10 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Spin-on oil filter question
I am about to order my engine from Aero Sport Power. I am trying to decide
what options I should order. I'm going to buy an O320-D2A from him and I'd
like to get the spin-on oil filter. Will it fit in an RV-4 that does not
have the cut-out on the firewall for the prop governer? Thanks in advance!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filter question |
> I'm going to buy an O320-D2A from him and I'd like to get the spin-on oil
> filter. Will it fit in an RV-4 that does not have the cut-out on the firewall
> for the prop governer?
Not a specific answer, but maybe this might help. I have an 0-360 A4M in my 6A.
The spin on filter barely fits without a firewall cutout with a couple
modifications.
First, I have to cut off the tacked on nut type fitting on the filter. I leave
the
tabs for safety wire on Then to remove or tighten it I had to modify a filter
wrench so the strap comes off on one end, then gets wrapped around the filter from
the top and then re-attached with a clevis pin. It probably adds about 10 minutes
to the time it takes to do a filter change.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Filtered air box |
I'm getting ready to order the finish kit for my RV-4. I was wondering, why
would I want a filtered air box? Thanks again for your help!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid altitude hold |
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
>
> > I believe that maintaining altitude in an RV is just as difficult as
> > maintaining heading, so in time I may upgrade my NavAid Devices A/P to a
> > two-axis A/P.
>
> You might want to wait and see what Navaid comes up with later in the year.
> They are working on an altitude hold system that will be a separate
> installation. It sounds like completed aircraft will be able to add it.
>
> I have lots of faith that it will be the lowest cost two axis autopilot
> around as again they will not try for certification.
Don't hold your breathe waiting for the altitude hold from Navaid. When
I first approached Navaid three years ago about my project, the altitude
hold option was "to be available later this year".........
There is an altitude hold device that you might want to check out:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
I have no experience with this unit, but apparently an RV-4 is using it
with good results.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | General Equipment Company <general(at)generalequip.com> |
| Subject: | Re: remove from mailing list |
ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> frank
>
> << 2. How is the F631A canopy bow attached to the Wd625B canopy side frame?
> According to the plans, there are 2 bolts that hold on the Wd622 canopy
> latch. But that doesn't seem like enough to me. Surely there must also
> be some rivets holding the canopy frame together?
>
> i used 4 rivits plus the 2 bolts on each side
>
> 3. What is the relative position of the instrument panel and the Wd616D
> canopy frame tube when the canopy is closed? I haven't trimmed my panel
> to shape yet, so I'm just not sure whether the tube should be forward or
> aft of the panel top when the canopy is closed. >>
>
> the rear tube will sit about 1" aft of the panel
>
> hope this helps, just did this last weekend
> know i'm fiberglassing the canopy weldment for stiffening
>
> scott
> tampa
> 6a tipper gooey, sticky, icky, fingers
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid RV6 Seat Instal Again |
I put the NavAid servo under the passenger seat of my RV6A and did find
pitch changes. I changed the activating rod (got a longer one) and connected
it to the bottom of the pilot's stick. No more pitch changes. The only very
minor problem was that the longer rod touched the end of the manual aileron
trim lever...I merely shortened that a small amount to gain the clearance
needed and I can now rotate the NavAid's trim control so that the ailerons
go stop to stop with absolutely no elevator movement either on the ground or
in flight.
RV6A Flying
Salida,CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il> |
| Subject: | Philosophy: Occum's Razor |
Almost. As far as I know, Occam's Razor is a philosophical
postulate, that says -
Of all the valid arguments, that are based on true assumptions -
and therefor represent a truth - the real truthful one is the
simplest argument.
Ronen.
-----Original Message-----
From: Builder's Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 9:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Occum's Razor and fuel pressure
|
|The is a mathmatical postulate called Occum's Razor (I think
that's what it's
|called) that says: For any problem, start with the simplest
possible solution
|and then work towards the most complex.
|
|These are good words, and not just for mathematicians, but for
the rest of us
|as well.
|
|Over the past 2 months I've been plagued by a fuel pressure
problem, that even
|with a lot of help from right here on this list, I just
couldn't figure out.
|The indicated pressure would slowly fluctuate all over the
scale but finally
|end up at zero by the end of each flight. (Or in other words,
when it got too
|close to zero, I made it the end of the flight.)
|
|I looked for blocked vents and lines, removing and inspecting
every one of
|them, and the boost pump and gascolator too. Everything was
clean. I replaced
|the FP sender (at no charge) which Mitchell said was a bit off.
I tested each
|fuel port for flow and pressure using a manual FP guage.
Everything was
|absolutely clean and worked, except that zero FP indication 15
minutes into
|each flight. All that was left was the guage itself and the
engine driven
|pump. I really hesitated to pull the mechanical pump. It was
new when I
|installed it and has less than 100 hours. It would have also
been the most
|expensive and difficult part to deal with. I decided to pull
both the sender
|and guage and send them once again back to Mitchell, this time
as a set for
|inspection and calibration.
|
|On removing it, I discovered that the power lead into it was
loose at the oil
|pressure gauge, the place from where the FP power comes. The
nut on the guage
|was half unwound on the oil pressure guage terminal. My oil
pressure gauge
|always gave consistent and proper readouts. I was leary that
this was the
|culprit since the intermittency during ground testing came with
just hose
|removal and reinstallation, without getting anywhere near the
gauge or causing
|any shaking or vibration that would have altered the contact of
the lead to
|the gauge.
|
|But, anyway, I tightened the lead nut, this time with a lock
washer, and
|retested the system. A steady 4 lbs with the boost pump, up to
a steady 9 lbs
|with the engine on. Closed the fuel valve; down to 1 lb. Open
the fuel valve;
|back to 9 lbs. Same on the other tank. Closed up the cowl and
decided to stay
|real close to the airport. During almost an hour's flight it
stayed at 9 lbs
|as solid as a rock. Switching tanks, prolonged steep banks, 3-4
Gs; everything
|seems OK. (For good this time, I hope)
|
|A lot of brain power from a lot of people went into trying to
figure out this
|problem. The answer turned out to be the simplest solution
there could
|possibly be. So simple that not a single person including
myself ever thought
|about it.
|
|It is true that even the most complex problem have the simplest
solutions.
|
|Thanks to everyone for your help.
|
|Andy
|Builder's Bookstore
|http://www.buildersbooks.com
|
|RV-6A N-5060 flying (again, finally)
|RV-X (waiting to do it again)
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I'm getting ready to order the finish kit for my RV-4. I was wondering, why
> would I want a filtered air box? Thanks again for your help!
>
>
Scott--
Look at the leading edges/surfaces of cowls/wings/stabilizers of
airplanes that have been flown and visualize the poor lives of all those
insects and pieces of dirt. Without a filter, you are betting that none
of that inhuman detritus gets into your carb or injector body and causes
your engine to crash quicker than a MicroSoft program. In return, you
get increased airflow and performance. With a filter, you are
sacrificing a bit of performance for a bit more safety.
The other choice is to have have two routes of air: (1) filtered
induction air while on the ground; and (2) a closeable ram air door that
can be opened in flight for increased performance when supposedly safe
from the the fuel induction system destroyers.
You, Scott, are charged with this holy quest to determine the ultimate
rulers of far flung galaxies: filter foam or insects.
Boyd.
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)mail.semy.com> |
Fellow builders,
I'm finishing up my trim tab and was wondering how much of a gap you
ended up with between the trim tab inboard end and elevator. The plans
call for 1/8" min, mine is more like 1/4".
Gary Gunn, AZ
RV-6 (empennage almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 QB Landing Gear |
Don't know about quick builds. On the Rv-8 kit, these holes must be drilled
before any of the forward bottom skins are put in place.
George
#80006
Waiting for finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: AV8R <jhth(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 6:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 QB Landing Gear
>
> Anyone know of any "tricks" for drilling the outboard landing gear wear
> plate holes on the RV-8 QB? Seems impossible to me without drilling holes
> in the F-850/F-851 fuselage skins.
>
> John Hall
> RV-8QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Filtered air box |
I once read about an RV that ingested a bird in the carb air intake. The
FAB was what kept the bird out of the carb and the RV flying... Low
probability, but another thing to consider.
Bryan Jones
-8, N765BJ
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP [mailto:bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP]
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 4:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filtered air box
201-229-116) with ESMTP
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I'm getting ready to order the finish kit for my RV-4. I was wondering,
why
> would I want a filtered air box? Thanks again for your help!
>
>
Scott--
Look at the leading edges/surfaces of cowls/wings/stabilizers of
airplanes that have been flown and visualize the poor lives of all those
insects and pieces of dirt. Without a filter, you are betting that none
of that inhuman detritus gets into your carb or injector body and causes
your engine to crash quicker than a MicroSoft program. In return, you
get increased airflow and performance. With a filter, you are
sacrificing a bit of performance for a bit more safety.
The other choice is to have have two routes of air: (1) filtered
induction air while on the ground; and (2) a closeable ram air door that
can be opened in flight for increased performance when supposedly safe
from the the fuel induction system destroyers.
You, Scott, are charged with this holy quest to determine the ultimate
rulers of far flung galaxies: filter foam or insects.
Boyd.
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire dimension |
In a message dated 5/3/00 5:51:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Hi,
I need to size some holes/grommets/firewall sheilds for some electric
wire runs through the firewall. Since I haven't purchased the wire yet,
can someone please tell me the outside diameters of #2 and #4 Mil spec
wire? Please reply off list.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon >>
I think this one's listworthy...
The #2 wire I used had an outside diameter (OD) of 3/8"
The #4 wire had an OD of 5/16".
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Filtered air box (rephrased) |
Okay, I think I phrased my original question wrong. Let me clarify. I know
the carb needs an air filter. No offense intended to everyone but I do know
that air to the carb needs to be filtered. I may be dumb but I'm not
stupid! :-) My question is: why the FAB? It's an option on the finish kit
order form. Since it's an option I figured that there are other options.
My question really is, why would I want a FAB rather than the squarish
filter I used to have on my Champ? I've seen both types on RV's.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP
[mailto:bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP]
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 2:16 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filtered air box
vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with ESMTP
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I'm getting ready to order the finish kit for my RV-4. I
was wondering, why
> would I want a filtered air box? Thanks again for your
help!
>
>
Scott--
Look at the leading edges/surfaces of
cowls/wings/stabilizers of
airplanes that have been flown and visualize the poor lives
of all those
insects and pieces of dirt. Without a filter, you are
betting that none
of that inhuman detritus gets into your carb or injector
body and causes
your engine to crash quicker than a MicroSoft program. In
return, you
get increased airflow and performance. With a filter, you
are
sacrificing a bit of performance for a bit more safety.
The other choice is to have have two routes of air: (1)
filtered
induction air while on the ground; and (2) a closeable ram
air door that
can be opened in flight for increased performance when
supposedly safe
from the the fuel induction system destroyers.
You, Scott, are charged with this holy quest to determine
the ultimate
rulers of far flung galaxies: filter foam or insects.
Boyd.
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trim tab gap |
I cut the tabs off & installed small rib ends. Ended up with 5/32" gap
L.Adamson RV6A finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
> I'm getting ready to order the finish kit for my
> RV-4. I was wondering, why
> would I want a filtered air box? Thanks again for
> your help!
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
I am sure that there are many reasons more than I am
going to list.
1. Keep dirt out of the engine. (Make the engine
last longer.)
2. Increased manifold pressure. The FAB that Van's
sells is a "Divergent duct" design. It works the
OPPOSITE of a venturi. Instead of speeding the air up
and decreasing pressure like a venturi, it Slows air
down and INCREASES pressure. This will allow greater
manifold pressure and more power.
Tests that I have run at 10,000 feet indicate that
there is a 0.5" increase in manifold pressure at
cruise speed. The method that I used was to slow the
aircraft to near stall speed. With the prop in high
RPM, I advanced the throttle to full open and read the
digital manifold pressure. The airplane accelerated
to cruise speed and I read the manifold pressure
again. The manifold pressure was now 1/2" higher.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
I am getting ready to start wiring soon and was wondering what the most
common size adell clamps to buy for our purposes? Also how many approx. of
each size should I buy?
Thanks
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery |
David Aronson wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> Has anyone used the small format Odyssey battery that Van's sells. I am looking
at
> a smaller battery to help make room for my Airflow Performance booster pump.
At 7
> 3/16 X 3 1/8 X6 5/8 this is the smallest with 600 cranking amps. A bit expensive
> too.
>
> Would appreciate anyone who has past experience with this battery to respond.
>
> David Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
David, I've been flying behind one for the past seven months. (actually, it's
mounted behind me in the luggage compartment.) I've not had any problems with
it. Not
only did it save 10 pounds over the RG-25XC, it has a few more cranking amp available.
I'm very satisfied!!
Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box (rephrased) |
>
>Okay, I think I phrased my original question wrong. Let me clarify. I
know
>the carb needs an air filter. No offense intended to everyone but I do
know
>that air to the carb needs to be filtered. I may be dumb but I'm not
>stupid! :-) My question is: why the FAB? It's an option on the finish kit
>order form. Since it's an option I figured that there are other options.
>My question really is, why would I want a FAB rather than the squarish
>filter I used to have on my Champ? I've seen both types on RV's.
>
Well first, many RV-4's do not have any air filter at all. If you agree, as
I do, that filtering is a very good idea, the reason to go with the FAB is
that it is a very efficient filter system. The very large filter area, as
compared to the squarish filter you refer to, as well as the "decelerate the
air" induction design makes for minimal if any MP loss.
I believe the rule of thumb is that induction systems with a filter will
cause about a 1" MP loss. Van's design should do much better.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filter question |
Yes, the oil filter is above the cut-out (at least in my Aero-Sport 0-360).
There is 1" clearance from the back of a regular oil filter to the firewall.
Doug Weiler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filter question |
Scott
The RV4 has plenty of room to get a spin on filter on and off, with no
interferance with the firewall. It is a fairly messy job thought.
I think someone on this list had a good tip a while ago, when you are ready
to change a filter, use a punch or screwdriver to make a small hole in the
filter in the top rear, loosen the filter a half turn, allow the oil to run
into some sort of container and then put a plastic bag over the filer and
remove it. I tried this this spring and ALOT less mess
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
Subject: RV-List: Spin-on oil filter question
>
> I am about to order my engine from Aero Sport Power. I am trying to
decide
> what options I should order. I'm going to buy an O320-D2A from him and
I'd
> like to get the spin-on oil filter. Will it fit in an RV-4 that does not
> have the cut-out on the firewall for the prop governer? Thanks in
advance!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | VFR/IFR Experimental Certification |
Hi,
Since I can't afford the IFR panel I would like to put in my RV-6, I am
opting for a more economical VFR panel with room for expansion to IFR
when funding permits.
When it comes time to certify the airplane, will I have to certify it
VFR? How do I later change it to IFR certification? Is it possible to
certify it as IFR even though I don't yet have the appropriate Navaids
on board? Even the most basic no gyro paneled Cessna 150's have
day/night VFR/IFR on their placards even though they don't have the
equipment on board to actually fly IFR. Can I do the same thing?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery |
>David Aronson wrote:
>
>>
>> Listers:
>>
>> Has anyone used the small format Odyssey battery that Van's sells. I am
looking at
>> a smaller battery to help make room for my Airflow Performance booster
pump. At 7
>> 3/16 X 3 1/8 X6 5/8 this is the smallest with 600 cranking amps. A bit
expensive
>> too.
>>
>> Would appreciate anyone who has past experience with this battery to
respond.
>>
>> David Aronson
>> RV4 N504RV
There are a variety of 17 a.h. recombinant gas batteries which can
be found on the following links. These batteries can be purchased
from a variety of battery specialty shops. We have some little
convenience store sized Battery Patrols around Wichita that handle
these batteries for $60-70 each.
Powersonic: PS-12180
http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html
Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . .
http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
Panasonic: particularly the LCRD1271P
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-rd
1217p.pdf
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.htm
Yuasa-Exide: Check out the NP18-12B at this site . . .
http://www.yuasa-exide.com/np-prod.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Spin-on oil filter question |
>
> interferance with the firewall. It is a fairly messy job thought.
>
> I think someone on this list had a good tip a while ago,
> when you are ready
> to change a filter, use a punch or screwdriver to make a
> small hole in the
> filter in the top rear, loosen the filter a half turn,
> allow the oil to run
> into some sort of container and then put a plastic bag over
> the filer and
> remove it. I tried this this spring and ALOT less mess
>
When I change my filter, I use a one-gallon plastic milk jug with the
bottom cut out. I get the open bottom up under the filter so I can
"catch" both the filter and the oil. The milk jug has a handle to
hang on to and is flexible enough to bend around hoses and other
interferences. If I am careful, I can change the filter without
spilling a drop.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 477 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adell clamps |
> I am getting ready to start wiring soon and was wondering what the most
> common size adell clamps to buy for our purposes? Also how many approx. of
> each size should I buy?
What a great question, the only problem is that there is no way to answer it
precisely. Every builder will wire his/her airplane differently and use
different materials. Personally, I used the Van's Accessory Catalog and
ordered about 10 of each size before I started. There are certain sizes that
I needed more of (and i'm not done yet), but I had enough to get started on
any task I might encounter so as to keep my work flowing. So my advice is to
get maybe 6 of each then buy more as you need them. Another less costly
tactic would be to buy a half dozen of every other size, then at least
you're close on any needs. Lastly, don't forget the plastic verson... they
are useful for some of the smaller wiring applications. You can obtain these
from AAMR ( http://hometown.aol.com/aamrelectr/index.html) or any common
electronics supply outlet.
Have fun,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, fwf stuff
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid altitude hold |
In a message dated 5/3/00 12:30:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
writes:
<< Don't hold your breathe waiting for the altitude hold from Navaid. When
I first approached Navaid three years ago about my project, the altitude
hold option was "to be available later this year". >>
Jim Ham from Porcine Associates is a member of our chapter (663 in Livermore,
CA) and he is the guy designing the future Navaid altitude hold device. It
will work by driving the elevator trim servo (only the most recent vintage
MACs) and he is on the Prototype Rev 4 unit at the moment. The unit was/is
being tested in Roger Hansen's "Dragon Master" RV-6 and still needs some
tweaking. I'm holding out for it, but probably not this year.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil door latch alternatives? |
At Sun & Fun I picked up the pround push botton lock exactly lke the Cessna
uses on the oil door on their front cowl for $20. My griedn has already
installed his and it is great, very clean, firm and much smaller than the
larger toggle type locks or the wing cam locks. Great Choice.
Gary Gembala
Still working on tail feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/3/00 6:44:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
JDaniel343(at)aol.com writes:
<< I am getting ready to start wiring soon and was wondering what the most
common size Adel clamps to buy for our purposes? Also how many approx. of
each size should I buy? >>
You'll need half a dozen of each from -2 thru -5. A dozen from -6 thru -7.
Probably two dozen of the -8 and a smattering of the others. I'd just buy a
dozen of each size to start ;
)
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery |
Robert,
You have any suggestions for the Rocket with the IO-540?
Are the ones below as good for the extra cylinders?
Tom G.
> Powersonic: PS-12180
> http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html
>
> Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . .
> http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
>
> Panasonic: particularly the LCRD1271P
>
>
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-rd
> 1217p.pdf
>
>
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.h
tm
>
> Yuasa-Exide: Check out the NP18-12B at this site . . .
> http://www.yuasa-exide.com/np-prod.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: VFR/IFR Experimental Certification |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Since I can't afford the IFR panel I would like to put in my RV-6, I am
> opting for a more economical VFR panel with room for expansion to IFR
> when funding permits.
>
> When it comes time to certify the airplane, will I have to certify it
> VFR? How do I later change it to IFR certification? Is it possible to
> certify it as IFR even though I don't yet have the appropriate Navaids
> on board? Even the most basic no gyro paneled Cessna 150's have
> day/night VFR/IFR on their placards even though they don't have the
> equipment on board to actually fly IFR. Can I do the same thing?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
Glenn-
You do not have to "certify" anything other than to list your IFR
equipment on your flight plan (/G, /A, /R--filed VFR with 50 hrs of XC
(cross-country) time and 10 hrs XC in a IFR "equipped" airplane, or
other ways before you begin IFR instruction. See FAR 61.65. Your
instructor will verify your equipment and experience. After passing
your IFR flight test, you can fly IFR anytime, anywhere, unless a
specific type-rating is required for the airplane. A lot of pilots get
their IFR ticket so they can fly up, thru the clouds to be "on top" and
then get back down again. RV's, because of their wing loading, tend to
be a bit bumpy in IFR minor turbulence. You do need gyros (AI, DG, Turn
Coorinator/AutoPilot) plus VOR/GS/MB(/GPS an additional flavor, but
non-precision, for now) to have an IFR airplane along with a few other
sundry items like an analog CDI "needle" display, altho this is
currently under review and digital displays may be equivalent, altho
this is not universally allowed, depending on your local FSDO (is that a
sentence, or what). Read FAR 61.65.
Boyd.
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine HELP please read |
dear listers,
i think i found an engine for my 6a, i know absoultly nothing about this
engine other than what the seller is telling me, see below. please read his
statements and give me your thoughts, that kind of money i would like an
informed opionion.
thanks, please remember this is going into a 6a , hopefully a constant speed
prop.
thanks, see below
scott
tampa
6a tipper
Dear Scott,
Yes, I still have the engine in my hangar. Some basic Background on this
engine:
The first question asked could be, what is the total time on the engine.
That cannot be answered because the crankshaft and cases came from a
Mooney engine whose
cylinders I did not want to use (standard O-360 parallel valve). The
Crankshaft is a Constant
Speed and the drive lugs are set for a Hartzell. The lugs can be replaced to
fit either a fixed pitch prop or a constant speed prop of different
manufacturer. I went with the thicker barrel O-540 cylinders (same mounting
and fit as O-360-essentially the same except the heavier barrel) because I
wanted a heavier duty cylinder and because I had recently had standard O-360
cylinders crack on our PA-28-180 Cherokee.
All overhaul parts are either Lycoming or Superior and are new, FAA
certified. All
the yellow tags are available. The O-540 Cylinders are Standard steel, but
two cylinders are bored oversized .10 and are set opposite to each other for
balance purposes. The rods are of course a matched set that came with the
crank. The pistons are new; the standard 8.5-1 compression. The cam shaft is
a reground which only says that the hardness existed to FAA specs, but was
resurfaced by Superior Airparts. The Cases were resurfaced by ECI in Texas.
What that means is that when an engine runs, the cases actually "move"
opposite to each other and "fret". Fretting is not a cause for rejection,
but
you can't get a good seal (and thus oil leaks) if the fret marks are allowed
to stay at overhaul and thus ECI puts them on there machine and they remove
.001 of the material on each mating half so you get a clean and precise fit.
The FAA Overhaul Engine shop that overhauled the engine is Gills
Engines, located at Stead Airport
(4SD), owned by Milton Gill. His phone number is (775) 972-0909. By the way,
the oil pump is aluminum, not the sintered steel. The shotgun AD the FAA put
out recently on the aluminum oil pump affected the O-235 to the O-360, but
the FAA left the O-540 out to stay with the Aluminum. I left it up to Gill-
and he went with Aluminum because in his experience, the Aluminum lasts
longer and the O-235's to O-360's have been running with them for 35 years
with no problems. If this upsets you, a change out is no big thing, but you
need to know.
What else can I answer? There are no accessories for this engine because
I was going to buy ALL NEW. I have a set of Bendix mags and harness you can
use for the SLICK magneto exchange program (worth $150.00 on a dual mag
purchase). The Starter ring gear is for a HOT prop. Meaning: IF you wanted
to
heat the prop for icing, the ring gear has provision for that. If you are
going to have a aircraft for day-VFR, I would exchange the ring gear for a
lighter
weight one.
The rear accessory housing is the same standard housing you will find on
the 235's
through the O-360's. There is a provision for the Vacuum pump-that special
gear pad is there as well as the housing for the constant speed prop
governor and dual magnetos. The bottom Sump housing has the Carb/injector
attach at the bottom
versus either side or back feed which the RV-6 cowl requires.
Here in Reno, The Flight Service Station is very picky on Experimental
aircraft employing FAA certificated and name plated engines and then putting
on non-STC'd parts for that engine. This is why the Lycoming data plate has
been omitted from the sump. IF you want to put on a Slick mag that will work
on your engine, but the O-360 data plate indicates a Bendix mag was used,
the
FAA inspector will flag the discrepancy and you will not be flying until you
get that specific Bendix mag and install it; with all ADs complied with as
well. This is ridiculous because the New Slicks are not only better than
Bendix but far cheaper and lighter. What about that great Airflow
Performance
Fuel injection system you can get for an O-360. Don't install it on a
"name-plated" O-360 because although the kit from Airflow performance is
simply fantastic, it IS NOT FAA certificated. This situation got so bad on
my
Long Ez, that on the Lancair 235 I recently finished, I simply removed the
data plate and had another one made up by a local engraver that stated the
engine was built by my Grandfather! No Ad's from Grandpa! All nonstandard
accessories APPROVED for flight and stated in the Engine log book and
everything was NEW-New Slicks/harness, Carb, Starter and Alternator, Fuel
pump! Let's go!
Well, let me know if this thing would work for you or if you have other
questions. The engine is in my humidity free hangar and no running time on
it
at all. The rocker covers and intake tubes are newly cad plated and the
engine is painted Lycoming Grey.
Sincerely,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
Are builders generally using one or two of the hartwell latches to
secure down the oil door on the cowl?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/03/00 |
I'm just getting started and came up with an idea i think will be helpful to
other newbies. To get proper alignment of the HS-810 and HS-814 I used a
clear plastic laminating sheet (contact paper would probably work also but is
stretchier) and carefully laid out the edge dimensions (3.25") and vertical
and horizontal centerlines. After quadruple checking my measurements I
removed the paper backing and set the HS-810 and HS-814 onto the adhesive
side. I transferred the whole setup to the HS-602s (already properly clamped
to my work surface) and lined up the vert. and horiz. centerlines. After
multiple checks I taped the assembly in place and proceeded to drill the
appropriate holes. This process worked extremely well and I am well pleased
with the results.
Tim Nell
RV-8
19.5 whole hours (about 1%)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hartwell latch |
I used one hartwell latch on mine. Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adell clamps |
The answer to this is the same as the answer to the question "How much wire
do I need?" The answer is "just a little more than you have on hand!"
I used about a dozen of the -3, -4, -5, and -6. Another popular size
was -8, -10, -12, and -16. These fit the tubes of the engine mount. Then
there was a sprinkling of the other sizes.
Take you best estimate and order some. It won't matter in the end anyway.
You'll always need just one more of a size that you don't have. Make
friends with the FBO so you can purchase a few here and there.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Weight and Balance this weekend, Fed inspection next week"
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 8:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Adell clamps
>
> I am getting ready to start wiring soon and was wondering what the most
> common size adell clamps to buy for our purposes? Also how many approx. of
> each size should I buy?
>
> Thanks
> John Danielson
> Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Odyssey Battery - Voltage Regulator |
Isn't the Odyssey a dry cell type battery? If so, what type voltage
regulator does it require? Same as for lead-acid battery?
Bryan Jones
-8 N765BJ
Pearland, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Brietigam [mailto:brietigam(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Odyssey Battery
David Aronson wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> Has anyone used the small format Odyssey battery that Van's sells. I am
looking at
> a smaller battery to help make room for my Airflow Performance booster
pump. At 7
> 3/16 X 3 1/8 X6 5/8 this is the smallest with 600 cranking amps. A bit
expensive
> too.
>
> Would appreciate anyone who has past experience with this battery to
respond.
>
> David Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
David, I've been flying behind one for the past seven months. (actually,
it's
mounted behind me in the luggage compartment.) I've not had any problems
with it. Not
only did it save 10 pounds over the RG-25XC, it has a few more cranking amp
available.
I'm very satisfied!!
Chuck Brietigam, RV-3's forever!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
Vans went a lot of trouble designing a pressure recovery air box. There was lots
of talk on it a few years ago in the RVator . At the speeds the RV's fly, the
air burbles, bending the air input stream 90 degrees and the general air fluid
dynamics around the carburator suggest a need for a constant velocity, pressure
recovery vessle (air box). You need a duct (air box) to route the input air to
the carb that won't disturb the air stream. You need to mate your lower cowl to
the snoot of the air box. If you allow pressure to exist in the lower cowl area
( i.e. no air box) you effect the draft for you cooling and the exit air. This
exit air requires a pressure differential from the air inlet on the top
cowl......... There are a few more engineering reasons to run with it but this
is my first cup of coffee.....
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com on 05/03/2000 02:45:35 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Filtered air box
I'm getting ready to order the finish kit for my RV-4. I was wondering, why
would I want a filtered air box? Thanks again for your help!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 QB Landing Gear |
John,
I had the same issue on my QB fuselage. Yes, you have to drill two holes
through the skin in order to get the mounting holes for the wear plates
drilled.
Don't worry, you gear-leg intersection fairing will eventually cover these
holes.
While you at it, check you landing gear weldments, WD822-L & R to make sure
that the angle, WD-822B is installed. See dwg 35 top right hand corner and
read the note for Rev 1. Some of the early QB kits, (mine for example) did
not have these.
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Long Term Engine Storage |
I just came across an excellent deal on a runout (2200 hrs) O-320 H2AD with
good logs and no prop strike. It has had the T-mod done and has had the
additive put in every 50 hours with oil change since new. It's still flying
in a C-172 and comes with the Carb and Mags for $2,400. It runs and flys
great and is run almost daily by a flight school. My plan is to use it in my
RV-6A and hopefully squeeze a few hundred hours out of it while I'm getting
out of financial shock from builing my plane, then I'll go with an overhaul.
My question is this: What is the best way to prepare the engine for long
term storage (probably 2 years)? I will probably keep it in my air
conditioned garage.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
(Wings were shipped by Vans yesterday :-))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid altitude hold |
Gary,
Thanks for the info. Does Jim Ham's altitude-hold installation (as it is
now) require that the NavAid servo be installed in the under-the-seat
position, or will it work with the nerved servo installed in the wing? I am
currently finishing an installation very similar to Sam B.'s, except that I
am installing the servo to main rib #13, one inboard of the end rib. My
thinking is that this position will still allow easy access and shortens the
length of the rod to the bellcrank.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N927MG (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
> In a message dated 5/3/00 12:30:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
> writes:
>
> << Don't hold your breathe waiting for the altitude hold from Navaid. When
> I first approached Navaid three years ago about my project, the altitude
> hold option was "to be available later this year". >>
>
> Jim Ham from Porcine Associates is a member of our chapter (663 in
Livermore,
> CA) and he is the guy designing the future Navaid altitude hold device.
It
> will work by driving the elevator trim servo (only the most recent vintage
> MACs) and he is on the Prototype Rev 4 unit at the moment. The unit
was/is
> being tested in Roger Hansen's "Dragon Master" RV-6 and still needs some
> tweaking. I'm holding out for it, but probably not this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VFR/IFR Experimental Certification |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Hi,
>
>Since I can't afford the IFR panel I would like to put in my RV-6, I am
>opting for a more economical VFR panel with room for expansion to IFR
>when funding permits.
>
>When it comes time to certify the airplane, will I have to certify it
>VFR? How do I later change it to IFR certification? Is it possible to
>certify it as IFR even though I don't yet have the appropriate Navaids
>on board? Even the most basic no gyro paneled Cessna 150's have
>day/night VFR/IFR on their placards even though they don't have the
>equipment on board to actually fly IFR. Can I do the same thing?
>
Glenn,
I don't have the exact wording, because it is in my airplane, but my
limitations say something to the effect that IFR flight is not permitted
unless the airplane is suitably equipped. That seems to pretty well
cover it.
My airplane was IFR equipped at the time of the inspection.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Vision - not RV related |
All,
First I apologize for using this forum for this questions, but I'm sure I
will get good input so here goes:
I just got back from a visit to the eye doctor and the pain of selecting
new glasses and options. One of the options was a coating for
anti-reflective lenses - the specific product was Crizal. I wondered if eye
care professionals that fly had an opinion on this. The glossy brochure has
photos showing a great reduction around lights, but I wonder if this is a
good thing when I may be looking for the bright light of something that may
smite me from the sky. Thanks in advance.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Long Term Engine Storage |
Simplest way store is to locate a large ( 2 foot by 3 foot ) cookie sheet,
position the engine upside down (carb up) on a large car tire and tighten all
orfaces (oil dip stick, accessory area, ect)
and start filling the case up with oil. You need'nt fill the sump all the way up
( when inverted). Make a mini-dip stick (popcicle stick) and stick your sump
from the drain. Run a handle across the prop flange drive lugs and rotate the
crank a few tens of turns. You want to fill the backbone of the engine up with
oil ..this is the cam and tappets area.... drown it with oil. The oil also
will drown the crank and piston skirts (and rods) too when the oil is added.
Took me 9 qts of oil. A bit messy but after you rotate the crank there is a
sweet spot where everything alligns and oil stops weeping. With everything
bathed in mineral aviation oil you will not have any worries. This is a
old-timers trick. There are many exotic ways to prepair a engine for storage but
This is 100% workable. ( If I could find a 50 gallon drum, I would do long
term storage that way-filled up with oil ) Great price. I did that also. The
H2AD engine is a good price performer. Be sure to order the H2AD engine mount
also.
ENewton57(at)aol.com on 05/04/2000 09:55:51 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Long Term Engine Storage
I just came across an excellent deal on a runout (2200 hrs) O-320 H2AD with
good logs and no prop strike. It has had the T-mod done and has had the
additive put in every 50 hours with oil change since new. It's still flying
in a C-172 and comes with the Carb and Mags for $2,400. It runs and flys
great and is run almost daily by a flight school. My plan is to use it in my
RV-6A and hopefully squeeze a few hundred hours out of it while I'm getting
out of financial shock from builing my plane, then I'll go with an overhaul.
My question is this: What is the best way to prepare the engine for long
term storage (probably 2 years)? I will probably keep it in my air
conditioned garage.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
(Wings were shipped by Vans yesterday :-))
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery - Voltage Regulator |
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
>Isn't the Odyssey a dry cell type battery? If so, what type voltage
>regulator does it require? Same as for lead-acid battery?
The Odyssey is not a dry cell, it has liquid water and
sulphuric acid in it. It's also a lead-acid battery.
It requires no special attention in terms of voltage
regulation.
see http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
The majority of my builders are using a 17 a.h. recombinant gas
batteries which which can be found on hte following links.
These batteries can be purchased from a variety of battery
specialty shops. We have some little convenience store sized
Battery Patrols around Wichita that handle these batteries
for $60-70 each.
Powersonic: PS-12180
http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html
Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . .
http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
Panasonic: particularly the LCRD1271P
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-rd
1217p.pdf
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.htm
Yuasa-Exide: Check out the NP18-12B at this site . . .
http://www.yuasa-exide.com/np-prod.html
Handle these like any other lead-acid battery. Bus volts no
less than 13.8 - 14.2 is about ideal - no more than 14.6
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long Term Engine Storage |
Eric, fist this is WAY too expensive for this engine, please give me his
phone number so I can buy it instead and keep you from making this grave
error... Seriously, I have to wonder why they're unloading this engine so
cheap. The H2AD's had a bad rap IMO, and with the mods they are very good
engines.
That said however, *personally* (for all you flame-meisters out there) I
would be very reluctant to try to significantly bust TBO with this engine.
All Lycomings are time-limited primarily by the exhaust valves. The H2AD
also has a slightly finicky valve train. I would postulate that since the
school has already gone well past TBO that they don't have a problem with
the engine's total time and there is something that makes them WANT to swap
that engine out.
I think that the best way to store an engine is to completely fill it to
overflowing with oil, and turn and top it off regularly. Be aware however,
that the likelihood of taking a past-TBO engine, storing it for two years,
and getting another few hundred reliable hours out of it are very slim.
Again, IMHO.
If it were me, I would store it, then have it overhauled just before flying.
I have, however, been accused of being too anal in the past. Good luck.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I just came across an excellent deal on a runout (2200 hrs) O-320 H2AD
with
> good logs and no prop strike. It has had the T-mod done and has had the
> additive put in every 50 hours with oil change since new. It's still
flying
> in a C-172 and comes with the Carb and Mags for $2,400. It runs and flys
> My question is this: What is the best way to prepare the engine for long
> term storage (probably 2 years)? I will probably keep it in my air
> conditioned garage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey Battery |
>
>Robert,
>
>You have any suggestions for the Rocket with the IO-540?
>
>Are the ones below as good for the extra cylinders?
>
>Tom G.
Yep, they'll do just fine as long as you have something
other than the Prestoheavy starter on it.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: VFR/IFR Experimental Certification |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 5/4/00 8:30, Larry Pardue at n5lp(at)carlsbad.net wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Since I can't afford the IFR panel I would like to put in my RV-6, I am
>> opting for a more economical VFR panel with room for expansion to IFR
>> when funding permits.
>>
>> When it comes time to certify the airplane, will I have to certify it
>> VFR? How do I later change it to IFR certification? Is it possible to
>> certify it as IFR even though I don't yet have the appropriate Navaids
>> on board? Even the most basic no gyro paneled Cessna 150's have
>> day/night VFR/IFR on their placards even though they don't have the
>> equipment on board to actually fly IFR. Can I do the same thing?
>>
>
> Glenn,
>
> I don't have the exact wording, because it is in my airplane, but my
> limitations say something to the effect that IFR flight is not permitted
> unless the airplane is suitably equipped. That seems to pretty well
> cover it.
>
> My airplane was IFR equipped at the time of the inspection.
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
Mine was VFR equipped and had the same sentence in it.
I think the sentence in mine may have also added the same thing about night
flight. At any rate the phase I of your flight limitations will restrict
you to daylight VFR, within your assigned test area, until completion of
your flight test period .
Perhaps it would clear up the confusion if you thought of the Airworthiness
inspection as the name implys. Have heard of no cases (even by FAA
inspectors ) where they were checking the static system cert, the
transponder cert, or the altimeter cal. The most detail I have heard of is
wanting to see a compass deviation card. Even then I don't think it had to
be filled in.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: hartwell latch |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 5/4/00 6:11, Glenn & Judi at foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Are builders generally using one or two of the hartwell latches to
> secure down the oil door on the cowl?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
>
>
>
I used one and it is doing well. I like it.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Long Term Engine Storage |
I called Lycoming & they told me to fill my engine up completely through the
breather port with new auto engine oil. Then take out the top plugs and
fill the cylinders completely full of oil. The exhaust ports and intake
ports have to be sealed off to do this. Either remove the pushrods or fab a
small plate to fit over the ports.
Others thinking of buying a new engine from Van's: Save your $200 & perserve
the engine as desribed above. That way, you can mount the engine & still
have it perserved. You can't mount the engine with prepurchased Long Term
Storage becasue its sealed in plastic.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 1st flight 1/16/2000
Melbourne, FL
>From: ENewton57(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Long Term Engine Storage
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 09:55:51 EDT
>
>
>I just came across an excellent deal on a runout (2200 hrs) O-320 H2AD with
>good logs and no prop strike. It has had the T-mod done and has had the
>additive put in every 50 hours with oil change since new. It's still
>flying
>in a C-172 and comes with the Carb and Mags for $2,400. It runs and flys
>great and is run almost daily by a flight school. My plan is to use it in
>my
>RV-6A and hopefully squeeze a few hundred hours out of it while I'm getting
>out of financial shock from builing my plane, then I'll go with an
>overhaul.
>My question is this: What is the best way to prepare the engine for long
>term storage (probably 2 years)? I will probably keep it in my air
>conditioned garage.
>
>Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
>Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
>(Wings were shipped by Vans yesterday :-))
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine HELP please read |
Scott,
The way he states it makes it sound good but I have some reservations here.
When he states the total time can't be determined he is in error. Total
time in an engine is the total time for that serial number since new or
factory reman.
Also when he says that he has to remove the data plate due to non-TSO'd
accessories I get a big question mark in my mind (or what's left of it after
all the fiberglass work on the canopy and cowling). While indeed the Type
Certificate lists the acceptable appliances, most FAA offices know that once
the engine goes on an experimental aircraft those applicances can be changed
and they do not affect the data plate. I can't guarantee that as some
offices get funny ideas but it sounds fishy. Also the AD for the Aluminum
oil gears was for a very good reason. There was a higher than normal
occassion of galling which reduced the oil pressure and flow. It may not
have happened to that mechanic but just because it did not happen to him is
it worth taking a chance with someones life for the few extra dollars it
costs (relative to overall engine cost).
Overall just by the way he makes his case I do not get a warm fuzzy here.
If he can't furnish a set of logs and a data plate I think I would have to
recommend staying away from it. But on the other hand there are some
excellent independent engine rebuilders out there and this could be one. I
would suggest calling the Reno FSDO and ask one of the Airworthiness
Inspectors about this gut and about the guy that overhauled the engine.
They know what kind of work he does.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A Sick of Fiberglass
>From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: engine HELP please read
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 08:11:26 EDT
>
>
>dear listers,
>i think i found an engine for my 6a, i know absoultly nothing about this
>engine other than what the seller is telling me, see below. please read his
>statements and give me your thoughts, that kind of money i would like an
>informed opionion.
>thanks, please remember this is going into a 6a , hopefully a constant
>speed
>prop.
>thanks, see below
>scott
>tampa
>6a tipper
>
>Dear Scott,
> Yes, I still have the engine in my hangar. Some basic Background on
>this
>engine:
>
> The first question asked could be, what is the total time on the
>engine.
> That cannot be answered because the crankshaft and cases came from a
>Mooney engine whose
>cylinders I did not want to use (standard O-360 parallel valve). The
>Crankshaft is a Constant
>Speed and the drive lugs are set for a Hartzell. The lugs can be replaced
>to
>fit either a fixed pitch prop or a constant speed prop of different
>manufacturer. I went with the thicker barrel O-540 cylinders (same mounting
>and fit as O-360-essentially the same except the heavier barrel) because I
>wanted a heavier duty cylinder and because I had recently had standard
>O-360
>cylinders crack on our PA-28-180 Cherokee.
> All overhaul parts are either Lycoming or Superior and are new, FAA
>certified. All
>the yellow tags are available. The O-540 Cylinders are Standard steel, but
>two cylinders are bored oversized .10 and are set opposite to each other
>for
>balance purposes. The rods are of course a matched set that came with the
>crank. The pistons are new; the standard 8.5-1 compression. The cam shaft
>is
>a reground which only says that the hardness existed to FAA specs, but was
>resurfaced by Superior Airparts. The Cases were resurfaced by ECI in Texas.
>What that means is that when an engine runs, the cases actually "move"
>opposite to each other and "fret". Fretting is not a cause for rejection,
>but
>you can't get a good seal (and thus oil leaks) if the fret marks are
>allowed
>to stay at overhaul and thus ECI puts them on there machine and they remove
>.001 of the material on each mating half so you get a clean and precise
>fit.
> The FAA Overhaul Engine shop that overhauled the engine is Gills
>Engines, located at Stead Airport
>(4SD), owned by Milton Gill. His phone number is (775) 972-0909. By the
>way,
>the oil pump is aluminum, not the sintered steel. The shotgun AD the FAA
>put
>out recently on the aluminum oil pump affected the O-235 to the O-360, but
>the FAA left the O-540 out to stay with the Aluminum. I left it up to Gill-
>and he went with Aluminum because in his experience, the Aluminum lasts
>longer and the O-235's to O-360's have been running with them for 35 years
>with no problems. If this upsets you, a change out is no big thing, but you
>need to know.
> What else can I answer? There are no accessories for this engine
>because
>I was going to buy ALL NEW. I have a set of Bendix mags and harness you can
>use for the SLICK magneto exchange program (worth $150.00 on a dual mag
>purchase). The Starter ring gear is for a HOT prop. Meaning: IF you wanted
>to
>heat the prop for icing, the ring gear has provision for that. If you are
>going to have a aircraft for day-VFR, I would exchange the ring gear for a
>lighter
>weight one.
> The rear accessory housing is the same standard housing you will find
>on
>the 235's
>through the O-360's. There is a provision for the Vacuum pump-that special
>gear pad is there as well as the housing for the constant speed prop
>governor and dual magnetos. The bottom Sump housing has the Carb/injector
>attach at the bottom
>versus either side or back feed which the RV-6 cowl requires.
> Here in Reno, The Flight Service Station is very picky on Experimental
>aircraft employing FAA certificated and name plated engines and then
>putting
>on non-STC'd parts for that engine. This is why the Lycoming data plate has
>been omitted from the sump. IF you want to put on a Slick mag that will
>work
>on your engine, but the O-360 data plate indicates a Bendix mag was used,
>the
>FAA inspector will flag the discrepancy and you will not be flying until
>you
>get that specific Bendix mag and install it; with all ADs complied with as
>well. This is ridiculous because the New Slicks are not only better than
>Bendix but far cheaper and lighter. What about that great Airflow
>Performance
>Fuel injection system you can get for an O-360. Don't install it on a
>"name-plated" O-360 because although the kit from Airflow performance is
>simply fantastic, it IS NOT FAA certificated. This situation got so bad on
>my
>Long Ez, that on the Lancair 235 I recently finished, I simply removed the
>data plate and had another one made up by a local engraver that stated the
>engine was built by my Grandfather! No Ad's from Grandpa! All nonstandard
>accessories APPROVED for flight and stated in the Engine log book and
>everything was NEW-New Slicks/harness, Carb, Starter and Alternator, Fuel
>pump! Let's go!
>
>Well, let me know if this thing would work for you or if you have other
>questions. The engine is in my humidity free hangar and no running time on
>it
>at all. The rocker covers and intake tubes are newly cad plated and the
>engine is painted Lycoming Grey.
>Sincerely,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ANR upgrade kit or NEW ANR's |
http://www.jetstreamcat.com/lightspeedheadset.html.....CHeck out this site for
ANR's. New Lightspeed
15K for 295.00. Thats compaired to the 160.00 retro-fit kit. The retro-fit kit
is nice but for the exrta 120.00
I will get the new 15K's. The retrofits have a unsightly wire that is taped to
your existing wire (or you can
spring for a special cabel for 40.00 I will save my existing headsets and not
retrofit-use them as spares. For
me the exrta 120$ buys a Lightspeed 15X....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VFR/IFR Experimental Certification |
Glenn,
What Larry and the others have said is right. The Operating Limitations
that are issued with your airworthiness certificate state that the aircraft
will be flown day VFR unless otherwise equipped. Once you upgrade your
panel and meet the requirements of FAR 91.205(d) then the aircraft can be
flown IFR once you get the transpnader and pitot-static system checked and
logbook entries made. Although I would suggest, only suggest, that you call
this a Major Alteration, limit the aircraft to a five hour test flight and
conduct practice IFR approaches and enroute work during that time. With
standard cat aircraft upgrading a panel from VFR to IFR is a major
alteration and needs a 337 submitted to the local FSDO. But under the new
Operating LImitations that are now being issued it states that it is your
determination of whether or not it is a major. But ot be on the safe side
with your local FSDO folks I would highly recommend gong that way.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
cough....cough...da** dusty fiberglass@$%*&!!!
>From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: VFR/IFR Experimental Certification
>Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 21:57:32 -0500
>
>
>Hi,
>
>Since I can't afford the IFR panel I would like to put in my RV-6, I am
>opting for a more economical VFR panel with room for expansion to IFR
>when funding permits.
>
>When it comes time to certify the airplane, will I have to certify it
>VFR? How do I later change it to IFR certification? Is it possible to
>certify it as IFR even though I don't yet have the appropriate Navaids
>on board? Even the most basic no gyro paneled Cessna 150's have
>day/night VFR/IFR on their placards even though they don't have the
>equipment on board to actually fly IFR. Can I do the same thing?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Baker" <gtbaker(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid altitude hold |
Gary,
Thanks for the info. Does Jim Ham's altitude-hold installation (as it is
now) require that the NavAid servo be installed in the under-the-seat
position, or will it work with the nerved servo installed in the wing? I am
currently finishing an installation very similar to Sam B.'s, except that I
am installing the servo to main rib #13, one inboard of the end rib. My
thinking is that this position will still allow easy access and shortens the
length of the rod to the bellcrank.
Gary Baker
RV-6 (Working on wings)
N927MG (Reserved)
Medina, OH
>
> In a message dated 5/3/00 12:30:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
> writes:
>
> << Don't hold your breathe waiting for the altitude hold from Navaid. When
> I first approached Navaid three years ago about my project, the altitude
> hold option was "to be available later this year". >>
>
> Jim Ham from Porcine Associates is a member of our chapter (663 in
Livermore,
> CA) and he is the guy designing the future Navaid altitude hold device.
It
> will work by driving the elevator trim servo (only the most recent vintage
> MACs) and he is on the Prototype Rev 4 unit at the moment. The unit
was/is
> being tested in Roger Hansen's "Dragon Master" RV-6 and still needs some
> tweaking. I'm holding out for it, but probably not this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Two O-320s for Sale 0 SMOH |
Don Sords who built my motor has two *experimental* O-320s for sale:
One O-320 D2A and one O-320 E2A
0 SMOH
All accessories included except vacuum pump (i.e., LW starter,
alternator, carb, mags & harness)
160 HP (or more if you want :
} - call Don)
Call Don for a price.
Don Swords
Don's Dream Machines
770-412-8885
donsdream(at)aol.com
Chris Browne
-6A FWF Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VFR/IFR Experimental Certification |
I talked to a fellow at the airshow at Half Moon Bay, Ca this past weekend.
He said the inspector would not inspect his airplane until he had a pitot,
static, transponder certification. Once he had the certification he said the
inspection went fine. I suppose this is a requirement because of the huge
SFO Class B airspace we fly under here in the bay area.
Cash Copeland
RV-6Q N46FC
Oakland, Ca
In a message dated 5/4/00 5:10:26 PM GMT Daylight Time,
deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
Mine was VFR equipped and had the same sentence in it.
I think the sentence in mine may have also added the same thing about night
flight. At any rate the phase I of your flight limitations will restrict
you to daylight VFR, within your assigned test area, until completion of
your flight test period .
Perhaps it would clear up the confusion if you thought of the Airworthiness
inspection as the name implys. Have heard of no cases (even by FAA
inspectors ) where they were checking the static system cert, the
transponder cert, or the altimeter cal. The most detail I have heard of is
wanting to see a compass deviation card. Even then I don't think it had to
be filled in.
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
>>
on 5/4/00 8:30, Larry Pardue at n5lp(at)carlsbad.net wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Since I can't afford the IFR panel I would like to put in my RV-6, I am
>> opting for a more economical VFR panel with room for expansion to IFR
>> when funding permits.
>>
>> When it comes time to certify the airplane, will I have to certify it
>> VFR? How do I later change it to IFR certification? Is it possible to
>> certify it as IFR even though I don't yet have the appropriate Navaids
>> on board? Even the most basic no gyro paneled Cessna 150's have
>> day/night VFR/IFR on their placards even though they don't have the
>> equipment on board to actually fly IFR. Can I do the same thing?
>>
>
> Glenn,
>
> I don't have the exact wording, because it is in my airplane, but my
> limitations say something to the effect that IFR flight is not permitted
> unless the airplane is suitably equipped. That seems to pretty well
> cover it.
>
> My airplane was IFR equipped at the time of the inspection.
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Hartwell latches |
Hi,
Can someone tell me the grip thickness for the Hartwell latches that
Aircraft
Spruce sells. I would like to use them on the oil door rather than the
kit
supplies camlocks.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid altitude hold |
It looks like the upcoming Navaid Altitude Hold will be easy to add to any
aircraft that has the electric trim option. It would seem to be simular to
the system at
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ccady/eztrim.htm
This is a great way to go as it will be the easiest to retro fit and should
be low dough.
Maybe Roger Hansen can comment for us.
Norman
>
> Thanks for the info. Does Jim Ham's altitude-hold installation (as it is
> now) require that the NavAid servo be installed in the under-the-seat
> position, or will it work with the nerved servo installed in the wing?
Jim Ham from Porcine Associates is a member of our chapter (663 in
> Livermore,
> > CA) and he is the guy designing the future Navaid altitude hold device.
> It
> > will work by driving the elevator trim servo (only the most recent
vintage
> > MACs) and he is on the Prototype Rev 4 unit at the moment. The unit
> was/is
> > being tested in Roger Hansen's "Dragon Master" RV-6 and still needs some
> > tweaking. I'm holding out for it, but probably not this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine HELP please read |
Unless I had a complete inventory of P/N & S/N of every item in that
dash-nothing, data plate removed engine, and had log to back it up..... I would
stay well clear of it. It Could be a well done engine but how are you to know?
If you had to bail from your project in 6 months how many folks would buy that
engine from you ??? . Priced realistically you could tear it down and inventory
& reassemble to a (-something) engine but that data plate is hard to come by.
Some folks scrap build engines from various sources and this accounts for the
data plate missing. Consider your time and the rebuilders time and your buy-in
money for a real dollar cost of this engine. This may be the case on this
-nothing engine (determining total time) If it were scraped assembled then he
may be quite accurate in that he can't determine the TT. There is nothing
inherently wrong with a scrap built engine but you need to be exrta dilligent
for many, many reasons.
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com on 05/04/2000 01:26:41 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine HELP please read
Scott,
The way he states it makes it sound good but I have some reservations here.
When he states the total time can't be determined he is in error. Total
time in an engine is the total time for that serial number since new or
factory reman.
Also when he says that he has to remove the data plate due to non-TSO'd
accessories I get a big question mark in my mind (or what's left of it after
all the fiberglass work on the canopy and cowling). While indeed the Type
Certificate lists the acceptable appliances, most FAA offices know that once
the engine goes on an experimental aircraft those applicances can be changed
and they do not affect the data plate. I can't guarantee that as some
offices get funny ideas but it sounds fishy. Also the AD for the Aluminum
oil gears was for a very good reason. There was a higher than normal
occassion of galling which reduced the oil pressure and flow. It may not
have happened to that mechanic but just because it did not happen to him is
it worth taking a chance with someones life for the few extra dollars it
costs (relative to overall engine cost).
Overall just by the way he makes his case I do not get a warm fuzzy here.
If he can't furnish a set of logs and a data plate I think I would have to
recommend staying away from it. But on the other hand there are some
excellent independent engine rebuilders out there and this could be one. I
would suggest calling the Reno FSDO and ask one of the Airworthiness
Inspectors about this gut and about the guy that overhauled the engine.
They know what kind of work he does.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A Sick of Fiberglass
>From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: engine HELP please read
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 08:11:26 EDT
>
>
>dear listers,
>i think i found an engine for my 6a, i know absoultly nothing about this
>engine other than what the seller is telling me, see below. please read his
>statements and give me your thoughts, that kind of money i would like an
>informed opionion.
>thanks, please remember this is going into a 6a , hopefully a constant
>speed
>prop.
>thanks, see below
>scott
>tampa
>6a tipper
>
>Dear Scott,
> Yes, I still have the engine in my hangar. Some basic Background on
>this
>engine:
>
> The first question asked could be, what is the total time on the
>engine.
> That cannot be answered because the crankshaft and cases came from a
>Mooney engine whose
>cylinders I did not want to use (standard O-360 parallel valve). The
>Crankshaft is a Constant
>Speed and the drive lugs are set for a Hartzell. The lugs can be replaced
>to
>fit either a fixed pitch prop or a constant speed prop of different
>manufacturer. I went with the thicker barrel O-540 cylinders (same mounting
>and fit as O-360-essentially the same except the heavier barrel) because I
>wanted a heavier duty cylinder and because I had recently had standard
>O-360
>cylinders crack on our PA-28-180 Cherokee.
> All overhaul parts are either Lycoming or Superior and are new, FAA
>certified. All
>the yellow tags are available. The O-540 Cylinders are Standard steel, but
>two cylinders are bored oversized .10 and are set opposite to each other
>for
>balance purposes. The rods are of course a matched set that came with the
>crank. The pistons are new; the standard 8.5-1 compression. The cam shaft
>is
>a reground which only says that the hardness existed to FAA specs, but was
>resurfaced by Superior Airparts. The Cases were resurfaced by ECI in Texas.
>What that means is that when an engine runs, the cases actually "move"
>opposite to each other and "fret". Fretting is not a cause for rejection,
>but
>you can't get a good seal (and thus oil leaks) if the fret marks are
>allowed
>to stay at overhaul and thus ECI puts them on there machine and they remove
>.001 of the material on each mating half so you get a clean and precise
>fit.
> The FAA Overhaul Engine shop that overhauled the engine is Gills
>Engines, located at Stead Airport
>(4SD), owned by Milton Gill. His phone number is (775) 972-0909. By the
>way,
>the oil pump is aluminum, not the sintered steel. The shotgun AD the FAA
>put
>out recently on the aluminum oil pump affected the O-235 to the O-360, but
>the FAA left the O-540 out to stay with the Aluminum. I left it up to Gill-
>and he went with Aluminum because in his experience, the Aluminum lasts
>longer and the O-235's to O-360's have been running with them for 35 years
>with no problems. If this upsets you, a change out is no big thing, but you
>need to know.
> What else can I answer? There are no accessories for this engine
>because
>I was going to buy ALL NEW. I have a set of Bendix mags and harness you can
>use for the SLICK magneto exchange program (worth $150.00 on a dual mag
>purchase). The Starter ring gear is for a HOT prop. Meaning: IF you wanted
>to
>heat the prop for icing, the ring gear has provision for that. If you are
>going to have a aircraft for day-VFR, I would exchange the ring gear for a
>lighter
>weight one.
> The rear accessory housing is the same standard housing you will find
>on
>the 235's
>through the O-360's. There is a provision for the Vacuum pump-that special
>gear pad is there as well as the housing for the constant speed prop
>governor and dual magnetos. The bottom Sump housing has the Carb/injector
>attach at the bottom
>versus either side or back feed which the RV-6 cowl requires.
> Here in Reno, The Flight Service Station is very picky on Experimental
>aircraft employing FAA certificated and name plated engines and then
>putting
>on non-STC'd parts for that engine. This is why the Lycoming data plate has
>been omitted from the sump. IF you want to put on a Slick mag that will
>work
>on your engine, but the O-360 data plate indicates a Bendix mag was used,
>the
>FAA inspector will flag the discrepancy and you will not be flying until
>you
>get that specific Bendix mag and install it; with all ADs complied with as
>well. This is ridiculous because the New Slicks are not only better than
>Bendix but far cheaper and lighter. What about that great Airflow
>Performance
>Fuel injection system you can get for an O-360. Don't install it on a
>"name-plated" O-360 because although the kit from Airflow performance is
>simply fantastic, it IS NOT FAA certificated. This situation got so bad on
>my
>Long Ez, that on the Lancair 235 I recently finished, I simply removed the
>data plate and had another one made up by a local engraver that stated the
>engine was built by my Grandfather! No Ad's from Grandpa! All nonstandard
>accessories APPROVED for flight and stated in the Engine log book and
>everything was NEW-New Slicks/harness, Carb, Starter and Alternator, Fuel
>pump! Let's go!
>
>Well, let me know if this thing would work for you or if you have other
>questions. The engine is in my humidity free hangar and no running time on
>it
>at all. The rocker covers and intake tubes are newly cad plated and the
>engine is painted Lycoming Grey.
>Sincerely,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid RV6 Seat Instal Again |
As an RV6A builder, I have put the angles in the wing per Sam's original
installation with the intention of mounting the servo in the wing. But I
agree it will be very difficult to get the servo in and out of the access
hole and screws in the holddown nut plates without making up some special
tool. It appears there may be many times to get it out and make
adjustments as discussed in the installation manual. Putting it out on the
wingtip will help the in-out series as it appears easier, assuming one
mounts the tips with screws. Mounting under the pax seat appears to work for
many including one local flyer I know - no know pitch coupling. Another
builder is putting the servo under the pax seat and running the push rod to
the pilots stick. Anyone done this or care to comment?
These are for RV6's. Different for tandem models. If I were doing it over,
and I may, I'd go for the wing tip installation. Put in on the wing without
the heavy flop tube to help the balance. Just my 2 cents.
Marty in Brentwood, gotta get those fuselage Longeron's bent tonight.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid RV6 Seat Instal Again
>
>
> > What exactly could a guy do to install the Navaid Servo under the
> > seat of an
> > RV6 to have the least impact on the pitch travel of the stick?
> >
> > I have seen this mentioned a few times. Is there some thing in
> > particular to
> > look out for when chosing the final location of the servo?
> >
> > Norman Hunger
>
>
> Norm,
>
> Check this out:
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
> I changed my plans to do an under-the-seat mount to Sam's wingtip
> mount.
> Installation went smoothly - I can't imagine an easier way in either
> flying or building stages.
>
> _Only_ down side is no in-flight adjustments.
> :)
>
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
>
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
OrndorffG(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> All,
> First I apologize for using this forum for this questions, but I'm sure I
> will get good input so here goes:
> I just got back from a visit to the eye doctor and the pain of selecting
> new glasses and options. One of the options was a coating for
> anti-reflective lenses - the specific product was Crizal. I wondered if eye
> care professionals that fly had an opinion on this. The glossy brochure has
> photos showing a great reduction around lights, but I wonder if this is a
> good thing when I may be looking for the bright light of something that may
> smite me from the sky. Thanks in advance.
>
> Becki Orndorff
>
>
Becki--
I talked with a couple optometrists who have used Crizal and they are
quite impressed. As Steve Judd mentioned it's an anti-reflective
coating but does not decrease the amount of light seen, in fact, it may
help resolve the definition of two points of light that are close
together, that would otherwise be perceived as one light from a
distance. It is also said to be more wear resistant and color-neutral
than other anti-reflective coatings. But, as of today, it seems to be
the best anti-reflective coating available and will NOT affect perceived brightness.
Personally, I'd go with laser surgery LASIK and throw my glasses away.
I did that a year ago and went from 20/400 with astigmatism to 20/20
without astigmatism and I'm smiling almost as much as a RV grin.
Boyd
RV S6
M.D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe question |
In a message dated 5/4/00 4:22:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
wirraway(at)bravo.net.au writes:
<< A recent inquiry to a sales person, resulted in a
statement, that a single flash from the power
supply is much stronger (CP) than the double
flash. My aging eyes tell me, they are about the
same........
Also, is the (CP) output the same for Whelen and
Aeroflash ?. I like the pricing on Aeroflash
compared to Whelen. I realise that Aeroflash is
not TSO'd which is OK for experimental aircraft. >>
Lots of info on this subject in the archives. Each power pack is rated for a
certain output and simultaneous flashing I believe robs power vs alternating
flashes which doesn't. Check the literature carefully from Whelen and they
explain exactly how much power (in Joules) gets to each head with the
different power supplies. The bulbs themselves have a effect on the light
output. The ones with more volume and surface area result in a brighter
flash for a given input.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: hartwell latch |
In a message dated 5/4/00 5:51:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Are builders generally using one or two of the hartwell latches to
secure down the oil door on the cowl? >>
I used two of the pushbutton Camloc (ala Cessna) latches. I don't like the
Hartwells, as they can whack your fingers if you are not careful.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Filtered air box |
John Kitz wrote:
> pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Vans went a lot of trouble designing a pressure recovery air box.
>> There was lots
>> of talk on it a few years ago in the RVator . At the speeds the
>> RV's fly, the
>> air burbles, bending the air input stream 90 degrees and the general
>> air fluid
>> dynamics around the carburator suggest a need for a constant
>> velocity, pressure
>> recovery vessle (air box). You need a duct (air box) to route the
>> input air to
>> the carb that won't disturb the air stream. You need to mate your
>> lower cowl to
>> the snoot of the air box. If you allow pressure to exist in the
>> lower cowl area
>> ( i.e. no air box) you effect the draft for you cooling and the exit
>> air. This
>> exit air requires a pressure differential from the air inlet on the
>> top
>> cowl......... There are a few more engineering reasons to run with
>> it but this
>> is my first cup of coffee.....
>>
>
> I think it is
>
> Pt= Pv + Ps
>
> or the total pressure always remains the same within reason. As air
> is decelerated from 200 mph to near 0, Pv, or velocity pressure
> drops, the static pressure Ps goes up and helps force the air into
> the carb.
> That was that way 40 years ago. So many things have changed though.
> John Kitz
> N721JK
> Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil door latch alternatives? |
Who sells them? I've gone through the market at OSH and can only find a
similar latch that has two discs. One is pushed to open the latch and the
other is pushed to close it. I'd like to find one just like cessna sells.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks landing light |
I lost the template sheet for my Duckworks Landing light hole. Could someone
please e-mail or fax me a copy.
Thanks
Bruce Voutas
BVOUTAS @ AOL
fax (860)355-4740
RV8-A still on the wings!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box (rephrased) |
In a message dated 5/3/00 4:51:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<<
Okay, I think I phrased my original question wrong. Let me clarify. I know
the carb needs an air filter. No offense intended to everyone but I do know
that air to the carb needs to be filtered. I may be dumb but I'm not
stupid! :-) My question is: why the FAB? It's an option on the finish kit
order form. Since it's an option I figured that there are other options.
My question really is, why would I want a FAB rather than the squarish
filter I used to have on my Champ? I've seen both types on RV's.
-- >>
Got one on my -4, It works real GOOD, almost 2 in. of ram air
pressure increase, It is very efficient. Fred LaForge So Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
>I talked with a couple optometrists who have used Crizal and they are
>quite impressed. As Steve Judd mentioned it's an anti-reflective
>coating but does not decrease the amount of light seen, in fact, it may
>help resolve the definition of two points of light that are close
>together, that would otherwise be perceived as one light from a
>distance. It is also said to be more wear resistant and color-neutral
>than other anti-reflective coatings. But, as of today, it seems to be
>the best anti-reflective coating available and will NOT affect perceived brightness.
>
>Personally, I'd go with laser surgery LASIK and throw my glasses away.
>I did that a year ago and went from 20/400 with astigmatism to 20/20
>without astigmatism and I'm smiling almost as much as a RV grin.
>
>Boyd
>RV S6
>M.D.
>
>
Boyd,
I've thought about that surgery, too. One question/concern I've got
is that my eyesight seems to be changing more now that I'm in my early
50's. Will the surgery be a 'permanent' fix or will I have to have
more surgical corrections later? I know I'll have to wear reading
glasses after the surgery. That will be a new thing for me as, being
nearsighted, I can easily read now without glasses.
My eyesight now is roughly 20/60 or 20/70 without glasses (and
astigmatism, too).
Your thoughts??
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box (rephrased) |
Increase over what? and at what speed?
Ferdfly(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 5/3/00 4:51:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
>
> <<
> Okay, I think I phrased my original question wrong. Let me clarify. I know
> the carb needs an air filter. No offense intended to everyone but I do know
> that air to the carb needs to be filtered. I may be dumb but I'm not
> stupid! :-) My question is: why the FAB? It's an option on the finish kit
> order form. Since it's an option I figured that there are other options.
> My question really is, why would I want a FAB rather than the squarish
> filter I used to have on my Champ? I've seen both types on RV's.
>
> -- >>
> Got one on my -4, It works real GOOD, almost 2 in. of ram air
> pressure increase, It is very efficient. Fred LaForge So Cal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Elevator Horn Question |
I finished both elevators on my RV-6A and diring the trial fit, I noticed
that the gap between the elevator horns and the center Bearing of the
Horizontal Stab (where a bolt goes through conecting the Elev horn to the HS)
is 3/16" on one side and 1/8" on the other. I this right? Looking at the
plans it calls for a 960-416 washer and a 5702-95-30 washer on each side.
I'm not sure what the 5702-95-30 washer is, but if it is the silver colored
ones it's not thick enough to fill the gaps. Am i missing something? I
rechecked all my measurments and since the spar and hinges were all
predrilled, I can't see how it could be that far off.
Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks, Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
RV-6A (wings soon)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Horn Question |
I ended up with about the same dimensions. Approx. 1/16" on the right &
3/16" on the left. I couldn't find the specs for the 5702-95-30 in my
Aircraft Spruce catalog. They may be larger outside diameter washer to
capture the bearing should it fail. I'm not sure. Will have to find out
myself, since I'm getting to the point of making this permanent.
L.Adamson RV6A finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Sorry to bother the list with this.
I have a buddy who bought a radio from e-bay that was represented as a Narco
Mark 12D/R. This is a special version of the Mark 12D that is supposed to
be a slide in replacement for a Mark 12A.
When he slid in the radio and hooked it up it smoked. Now we are trying to
figure out if it is truly a Mark 12D/R or a Mark 12D and are also trying to
check the pinouts. This is one reason I don't shop on e-bay.
Does anyone have the relevent pin-outs or other knowledge on this radio,
like how to tell if it is a /R. There are no markings that would make it
obvious.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
April 28, 2000 - May 04, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ik