RV-Archive.digest.vol-il
May 04, 2000 - May 10, 2000
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
Has anyone installed an alternate air door on the air box? Jeff Farrar,
RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage
almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units.
----- Original Message -----
Subject: RE: RV-List: Filtered air box
> I once read about an RV that ingested a bird in the carb air intake. The
> FAB was what kept the bird out of the carb and the RV flying... Low
> probability, but another thing to consider.
>
> Bryan Jones
> -8, N765BJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Horn Question |
I'm interested in this also...
I'm building up all of my spars first to do some semblance of a trial fit...
Are the nutplates for the heim bearings a "one-time" use thing? I'd like to
do a "trial-fit" before I rivet the elevator horns to their spars...
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
Scott (& the list):
There's one other reason that the airbox is listed as an option, rather than
being an integral part of the kit from Van's (that I haven't yet seen
mentioned in response to your post).
There are several variants of the airbox itself, to match with O-320, O-360,
etc. Also, some engines with a rear mounted carb or injector throttle body
(for you tailwheel guys!) might need a variant that isn't even available.
Hence, it gets listed as an option so you can make sure you get the right
version.
I put one on our RV-6A, and do indeeed endorse Van's product - reasonably
straightforward to build, does seem to provide plenty of combustion air,
etc. It does seem to be nearly as capable of forming carb ice as the
typical C-172 air induciton system (as opposed to a Cherokee - for some
reason they seem to avoid it - wonder what the difference is?) I flew
through a light rain shower one day during an apporach (throttle mostly
closed) and sure enough, got the classic rough engine symptoms. Pulled on
carb heat and a few seconds later we were back to normal. Sure made a
believer out of me on the effectiveness of the carb heat system as suggested
by Van in the instructions...
Bill & Kathy Peck - RV-6A(Q) Flying (trip to NE this weekend - 2 hrs instead
of 7 by road - THIS is why we built this thing!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathy & Bill Peck" <peck(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
Becki (& list) -
I have seen a comment or two about the effectiveness of anti-reflective
coatings. I concur with the reports that they can be effective - I had a
pair of glasses a couple years ago with a coating (I am NOT sure of the
product name - don't know if it was Crizal or not, but this had to be at
least three years ago - may be able to eliminate Crizal by how long it's
been available?).
The down-side, for me, was the "fragility" of the coating that was also
mentioned in at least one of the responses. I started getting small
scratches in the coating itself, and that made the lenses much worse than
not having anything on them for my uses. I ended up polishing the coating
off (don't tell any opthamologists/optometrists - I used Kit car wax to do
it!).
So - I recommend checking about the durability of this product, and making
your decision based on how you think this will last, not on how you think it
will work new. I tend to be pretty hard on my glasses - they get pretty
dirty, and I'm not espeically careful cleaning them. I have decided to
avoid coatings for my own use...
Bill Peck - RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
The FAB instructions have the alt. air door in the plans. Have Vans fax you a
FAB assembly figure...I did before I purchaced my FAB kit....
jfarrar1(at)home.com on 05/05/2000 12:22:22 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filtered air box
Has anyone installed an alternate air door on the air box? Jeff Farrar,
RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage
almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units.
----- Original Message -----
Subject: RE: RV-List: Filtered air box
> I once read about an RV that ingested a bird in the carb air intake. The
> FAB was what kept the bird out of the carb and the RV flying... Low
> probability, but another thing to consider.
>
> Bryan Jones
> -8, N765BJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Horn Question |
I ended up with similar gaps as you describe. What I did was make spacers
out of the same tubing used to make the spacers for your aileron bellcrank
installation (when you get there). You will have enough left over to go
back and make the spacers at that time. The two washers you refer to are
the silver colored ones that are there to retain the bearing in the event of
a failure. These will go on the inboard side of the spacers you make up.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, N44PH, Fuselage Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Horn Question
>
> I finished both elevators on my RV-6A and diring the trial fit, I noticed
> that the gap between the elevator horns and the center Bearing of the
> Horizontal Stab (where a bolt goes through conecting the Elev horn to the
HS)
> is 3/16" on one side and 1/8" on the other. I this right? Looking at the
> plans it calls for a 960-416 washer and a 5702-95-30 washer on each side.
> I'm not sure what the 5702-95-30 washer is, but if it is the silver
colored
> ones it's not thick enough to fill the gaps. Am i missing something? I
> rechecked all my measurments and since the spar and hinges were all
> predrilled, I can't see how it could be that far off.
>
> Any advise would be appreciated.
> Thanks, Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A (wings soon)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid altitude hold |
In a message dated 5/4/00 11:45:29 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gtbaker(at)bright.net writes:
<< Does Jim Ham's altitude-hold installation (as it is
now) require that the NavAid servo be installed in the under-the-seat
position, or will it work with the nerved servo installed in the wing? >>
I don't believe that is a problem. The pitch axis is independent from the
roll axis as it merely taps into the two white wires going to the elevator
servo. It also taps into pitot and static.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> The FAB instructions have the alt. air door in the plans. Have Vans fax you a
> FAB assembly figure...I did before I purchaced my FAB kit....
>
> jfarrar1(at)home.com on 05/05/2000 12:22:22 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Filtered air box
>
>
> Has anyone installed an alternate air door on the air box? Jeff Farrar,
> RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage
> almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units.
The carb heat door on the FAB planes is not a true alternate air door
since it does not bypass the filter. The only way I can see to provide
alternate air is to fabricate some sort of inlet in the bottom of the
filter plate.
This would be a good feature if somebody can come up with a reliable
system.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6......withdrawal well under way...)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
Dan Goldston wrote:
>
>
> I found an excellent source of info on strobes at
> http://www.cessna.org/strobes.html in this paper it says "While the
> Aeroflash strobes are probably the least expensive way to get strobe lights
> installed on your aircraft, they are also a case of "You get what you pay
> for". Compared to what is available from Whelen, the Aeroflash units are not
> nearly as bright a light. The power supplies have only a 10 joule output and
> when this is applied to the light you get approximately a 100 candle flash
> through a clear lens. This is adequate for night operations, but it will not
> be noticeable during the day while some of the other high powered systems
> show up even in bright sunlight."
The discussion over how bright a strobe system appears in daylight
continues to puzzle me. According to my corrected myopic orbs, in bright
daylight, the silhouette of an approaching aircraft appears much sooner
than the winking of the strobes. For instance, you may be able to see
the dot in the sky from a couple of miles away, but the aircraft will
have to be much, much closer before the strobes will be visible. I have
observed this many times while flying with my pals who have Whelen
equipped RV's.
Having said that, it seems to my feeble way of cogitating that strobes
are only useful in conditions of very low visibility or darkness. Since
even the lower power strobes (Aeroflash) are quite visible at night,
perhaps the discussion of whether or not to install retina searing
strobes is moot, especially as pertaining to daylight flight. Perhaps a
much more viable alternative might be to concentrate on designing a
highly visible paint scheme.
Anyone have a good source for fluorescent orange polyurethane?? :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with bright red tail....)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
>
>At Vans Banquet
>Cecil
Hi Cecil,
I've been filling in for you the past few years for Van's Banquet
Tickets/Resrvations. This year, however, I may not make it to 'Kosh. Will
you be attending this year, and will you be able to help in this regard? I
can actually do the work needed on the phone and the RV-list, but I can't
bring the name tags, etc.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N8ZW in my near future
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
Ok....got the drift.....On my midget mustang I had a simular air box as Vans.
I
Had a spring loaded trap door that used engine suction to lift the door if the
filter cloged on the inlet cloged. The Mooney I fly has a simular trap door. I
used a spring that felt the same as the Mooney spring on my door. I guess you
could fabricate a trap door on the interior of the K&N filter on the bottom of
the FAB...........
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net on 05/05/2000 10:34:25 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filtered air box
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> The FAB instructions have the alt. air door in the plans. Have Vans fax you a
> FAB assembly figure...I did before I purchaced my FAB kit....
>
> jfarrar1(at)home.com on 05/05/2000 12:22:22 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Filtered air box
>
>
> Has anyone installed an alternate air door on the air box? Jeff Farrar,
> RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage
> almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units.
The carb heat door on the FAB planes is not a true alternate air door
since it does not bypass the filter. The only way I can see to provide
alternate air is to fabricate some sort of inlet in the bottom of the
filter plate.
This would be a good feature if somebody can come up with a reliable
system.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6......withdrawal well under way...)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Vision - not RV related |
My two cents: I had Lasik done 2 1/2 years ago. I was VERY nearsighted with
20/1100 and 20/1000 plus moderate astigmatism in each eye. I could no longer
tolerate contacts so I was forced to wear coke bottle glasses that had quite
a bit of distortion on the periphery. The doctor purposely under corrected
on the first procedure because of my severe nearsightedness. Three months
later they did a brief re-treatment to do the last bit of correction. I now
see 20/15 in both eyes and at age 46, presbyopia has not yet affected me so
I don't yet need reading glasses. It is truly miraculous to me . . . the
best money I ever spent. The only drawback is that I no longer have a
high-powered microscope built into my eyes!
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I got a wiring diagraam for the 12A boat ancors if it will help.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> Does anyone have the relevent pin-outs or other knowledge on this
> radio, like how to tell if it is a /R. There are no markings that
would
> make it obvious.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator Horn Question |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Eric:
I think you want the large flat washers on each side of the bearing if it
fails.
The other brackets on the elevator will auto locate the elev to the HS.
You need to "take up" the space even though it is not equal with washers
or bushings.
I am trying to drill the horns to the 690 now. Not much space in there,
so I would go with custom bushing bushings. ( don't go useing soft fuel
line for the bushings) I would build them now & paint one some color for
the left.
When you get to all the controls, you will run in to the same thing.
While I washered up each one, I prosealed the washers to the control
brackets.
Buy the way, them little bity washers with the long part # will go to
your ailron rod ends so they can swivle in the brackets.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> I finished both elevators on my RV-6A and diring the trial fit, I
> noticed
> that the gap between the elevator horns and the center Bearing of
> the
> Horizontal Stab (where a bolt goes through conecting the Elev horn
> to the HS)
> is 3/16" on one side and 1/8" on the other. I this right? Looking
> at the
> plans it calls for a 960-416 washer and a 5702-95-30 washer on each
> side.
> I'm not sure what the 5702-95-30 washer is, but if it is the silver
> colored
> ones it's not thick enough to fill the gaps. Am i missing
> something? I
> rechecked all my measurments and since the spar and hinges were all
> predrilled, I can't see how it could be that far off.
>
> Any advise would be appreciated.
> Thanks, Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A (wings soon)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony Wiebe" <awiebe(at)cadvision.com> |
| Subject: | Vision - not RV related |
Two more cents worth ... I also had the Lasik proceedure done 6 months ago
and I also have 20/15 sight in both eyes without the need for reading
glasses (at age 41). I still find I reach for my glasses every morning
though. Best $1000.00 I ever spent.
I know the procedure is expensive in the US (ie $4000-$5000 for both eyes)
however in Canada there is a company called Lasik Vision that will do both
eyes for $1000.00 USD. They have treated over 60,000 patients in Canada and
are now bringing thier pricing model down to the US. They have branches in
throughout Canada and are in the process of expanding into the US. Check
out thier web site at http://www.lasik-vision.com/.
Best Regards,
Anthony Wiebe
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
RV-8A Empenage.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of C J Heitman
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 5:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Vision - not RV related
My two cents: I had Lasik done 2 1/2 years ago. I was VERY nearsighted with
20/1100 and 20/1000 plus moderate astigmatism in each eye. I could no longer
tolerate contacts so I was forced to wear coke bottle glasses that had quite
a bit of distortion on the periphery. The doctor purposely under corrected
on the first procedure because of my severe nearsightedness. Three months
later they did a brief re-treatment to do the last bit of correction. I now
see 20/15 in both eyes and at age 46, presbyopia has not yet affected me so
I don't yet need reading glasses. It is truly miraculous to me . . . the
best money I ever spent. The only drawback is that I no longer have a
high-powered microscope built into my eyes!
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
My wife is an optician, got her start working for my father the eye surgeon,
and agrees with others on antireflection coating. I know that with AF
coated camera lenses (all modern lenses have it) you do lose a tiny bit of
light but the image is still better. So it would be with seeing a light at
night as there would be less distraction from your own lights, moon etc.
Don't get so low that street lights bother you!
On lasik, in the early days, there were some failures wherein vision got
worse. It will not help with presbyopia - you will need readers!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.0 (1513)
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
| From: | bellsouth <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
(snip
>
> John,
> I had Lasik done in January. My eyesight before was about 20/60(nearsighted)
> in both eyes. The prescription was -7.0 right and -7.5 left. My right eye is
> 20/20 now but the left is about 20/60 (farsighted) with astigmatism. They
> overcorrected. I am waiting for the software, due anytime now, that allows a
> correction of farsighted with astigmatism. Chances are good that it can be
> fixed to near 20/20 with no astigmatism.
(snip)
>
>
Dave (and others).
Most of the LASIK comments posted are right on target. If anyone wishes,
I'll be happy to answer questions directly, but it is probably best off-list
as it is only peripherally RV-related. I'm a fellowship-trained refractive
surgeon and have been doing PRK/LASIK since 1995, including some of the FDA
clinical trials, and am still active in research.
The most common question I get from pilots is "What is the FAA position...?"
Basically, the FAA doesn't care, as long as you meet the requirements for
whichever class of medical you carry, and your vision has been stable.
LASIK generally works very well in pilots. Some employers (military and
some airlines) have their own policies however.
The FDA is meeting next week to consider the approvability of the software
upgrade for the VISX Star laser (which is probably what you were treated
with). The clinical results are very good and it should be a no-brainer.
James Freeman
RV8QB fuse (had N193NM reserved b/c of the 193 nanometer excimer laser
which was paying for it but I gave it to another corneal surgeon whose
aircam should fly this month...;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Horn Question |
Ralph -
The nutplates for the Heim bearings are reusable as many times as you need.
The reason that they are used in this location is just as a retainer for the
threads needed to hold the bearing. The lock nut supplied does the job of
retaining the bearing in the hole at the correct posistion - whether the
locking part of the nut plate is working or not.
Hope this helps.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA - fitting wing tips and finishing up -
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 5:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator Horn Question
>
> I'm interested in this also...
>
> I'm building up all of my spars first to do some semblance of a trial
fit...
>
> Are the nutplates for the heim bearings a "one-time" use thing? I'd like
to
> do a "trial-fit" before I rivet the elevator horns to their spars...
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Horn Question |
Eric Newton wrote:
> I finished both elevators on my RV-6A and diring the trial fit, I noticed
> that the gap between the elevator horns and the center Bearing of the
> Horizontal Stab (where a bolt goes through conecting the Elev horn to the
HS)
> is 3/16" on one side and 1/8" on the other
Unfortunately there are no tolerances given in the plans so it is unknown if
a difference of 1/16th of an inch is acceptable or not. It is, however.
With high class cars like Ferraris, Bentleys and the like, they refer to
'fit and finish'. In the old days, craftsmen would align all the screw
slots. Such fit and finish is unknown to Cessna, Piper and even Beech.
Many RV's show better F&F. I saw a few that were pretty crude at Oshkosh
last year but they flew in.
Move on to the wings!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe question |
Anything can be over built. Someone said, "anyone can build a bridge but it
takes a skilled engineer to build a cheap bridge". What benefit is there
to being seen twenty miles away? What are the requirements for a 200 mph
aircraft which is surely either IFR or at least on flight following?
I looked very hard at Whelen stuff. Great quality and pace setting
performance. Outrageous pricing for a puddle jumper tho cheap for an
airliner or Lear. Aeroflash is too expensive too, especially for position
lights.
I have several dozen sketches of the homebuilt position lights I will try
to get accepted. When I settle on one, build it, and get it accepted, I
will share. Instead of strobes I plan on using flashing halogens.
I don't plan on much night operation and none VFR.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
much snipped
>
> I've thought about that surgery, too. One question/concern I've got
> is that my eyesight seems to be changing more now that I'm in my early
> 50's. Will the surgery be a 'permanent' fix or will I have to have
> more surgical corrections later? I know I'll have to wear reading
> glasses after the surgery. That will be a new thing for me as, being
> nearsighted, I can easily read now without glasses.
>
> My eyesight now is roughly 20/60 or 20/70 without glasses (and
> astigmatism, too).
>
> Your thoughts??
>
> John Ammeter
Preface: no personal experience, just desire.
You've heard the old saw, "If you wait until that new faster computer
comes out to buy one, you'll never own a computer."
Well, just when I thought I had screwed up my courage enough to let
somebody slice of the front of my eye & burn its innards, along comes
something new.
If this is old news to those of you contemplating eye surgery, sorry,
but no ones mentioned it yet so here goes.
The new technique involves making a tiny slit at the edge of the cornea
& inserting what amounts to a split washer or doughnut in (behind?
under?) the cornea. This stretches & reshapes the cornea & if they get
it wrong they simply pull it out & insert another, almost like changing
a lens.
I like the fact that a 'flap' isn't cut from the cornea. There have been
some cases of problems with that, & I'm almost as hard on my eyes as I
am my car.
Sorry that I can't recall the name of the procedure, but if anyone's
seriously interested contact me off list & I'll find out when the clinic
opens on Monday.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hamilton, Thom" <Thom.Hamilton(at)usa.xerox.com> |
| Subject: | How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
My response to Sam's comment about the silhouette of a plane appearing
before the strobes in daylight would have to be: It Depends. I agree that
when a plane is approaching head-on or tail-on (actually that would be going
away unless something really weird is happening) the plane's silhouette is
much more noticeable than the strobes. However, when the plane is moving
across your field of vision, such as a plane cutting in front of you on
final, or entering downwind in front of you, I find the strobes to be much
more noticeable. My lay-person explanation would go back to the whole,
moving object versus static object in field-of-view phenomenon. Thus why
you have fewer problems seeing a plane moving across your track, but those
that don't move relative to your view, i.e. the one's you're gonna'
intersect with, are not nearly as noticeable. And let me tell you, a plane
with Cometflash strobes moving across your field of view is REAL noticeable.
Looks kinda' neat in fact.
BTW, I intend to take all precautions. I've had one near-miss (near-hit,
whatever) and that was more than enough for me. I'm gonna' have the full
Whelen Cometflash wingtip setup with the fiberglass extensions to stick them
out there good, and the nose and tail will be bright yellow, the rest of the
plane being a silver grey with black and white invasion stripes on wings and
fuselage. Yes, I have a Walter Mitty complex, wanta' make something of it?
Maybe the Stars and Bars will help with recognition too.
Thom Hamilton
MCSE, CNE, PP-ASEL, etc.
RV-8 Wings : Drill, Debur, Dimple, repeat as necessary
Baton Rouge, LA 225-753-9339
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc(at)hiwaay.net]
> Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 9:47 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be?
>
>
>
>
> Dan Goldston wrote:
> >
> >
> > I found an excellent source of info on strobes at
> > http://www.cessna.org/strobes.html in this paper it says "While the
> > Aeroflash strobes are probably the least expensive way to
> get strobe lights
> > installed on your aircraft, they are also a case of "You
> get what you pay
> > for". Compared to what is available from Whelen, the
> Aeroflash units are not
> > nearly as bright a light. The power supplies have only a 10
> joule output and
> > when this is applied to the light you get approximately a
> 100 candle flash
> > through a clear lens. This is adequate for night
> operations, but it will not
> > be noticeable during the day while some of the other high
> powered systems
> > show up even in bright sunlight."
>
>
>
>
> The discussion over how bright a strobe system appears in daylight
> continues to puzzle me. According to my corrected myopic
> orbs, in bright
> daylight, the silhouette of an approaching aircraft appears
> much sooner
> than the winking of the strobes. For instance, you may be able to see
> the dot in the sky from a couple of miles away, but the aircraft will
> have to be much, much closer before the strobes will be
> visible. I have
> observed this many times while flying with my pals who have Whelen
> equipped RV's.
>
> Having said that, it seems to my feeble way of cogitating that strobes
> are only useful in conditions of very low visibility or
> darkness. Since
> even the lower power strobes (Aeroflash) are quite visible at night,
> perhaps the discussion of whether or not to install retina searing
> strobes is moot, especially as pertaining to daylight flight.
> Perhaps a
> much more viable alternative might be to concentrate on designing a
> highly visible paint scheme.
>
> Anyone have a good source for fluorescent orange polyurethane?? :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with bright red tail....)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
John Ammeter wrote:
> I've thought about that surgery, too. One question/concern I've got
> is that my eyesight seems to be changing more now that I'm in my early
> 50's. Will the surgery be a 'permanent' fix or will I have to have
> more surgical corrections later? I know I'll have to wear reading
> glasses after the surgery. That will be a new thing for me as, being
> nearsighted, I can easily read now without glasses.
It's probably not worth it... I think if I was 20, I *might* go for it
though. It's pretty normal for eyes to become more and more long-sighted
after the owner turns 40.
Incidentally, IIRC pilots (or maybe only CPLs?) aren't allowed to have
laser eye surgery... if you do, you lose your medical. This may only
apply here in NZ, but perhaps also the USA??? (Or I may have got it
completely wrong). As I understand it, this is because the long-term
effects of the surgery aren't known.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe question - Long Answer |
Dan Goldston wrote:
>
>
> I found an excellent source of info on strobes at
> http://www.cessna.org/strobes.html in this paper it says "While the
> Aeroflash strobes are probably the least expensive way to get strobe lights
> installed on your aircraft, they are also a case of "You get what you pay
> for". Compared to what is available from Whelen, the Aeroflash units are not
> nearly as bright a light. The power supplies have only a 10 joule output and
> when this is applied to the light you get approximately a 100 candle flash
> through a clear lens. This is adequate for night operations, but it will not
> be noticeable during the day while some of the other high powered systems
> show up even in bright sunlight."
One of our homebuilders is in the Air Force, and he was given a task by
them regarding visibility of their trainers... he looked at various
paint schemes, and also strobes. He wrote a couple of articles for our
"Kit Flying" magazine on these subjects.
He found that the only strobe system which put out enough light for
daytime visibility cost about NZ$20,000 (US$10,000) -- this is the
system used on their A4-K Skyhawks. The RNZAF concluded that they didn't
really need anything quite that good.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
"Hamilton, Thom" wrote:
> the nose and tail will be bright yellow, the rest of the
> plane being a silver grey with black and white invasion stripes on wings and
> fuselage. Yes, I have a Walter Mitty complex, wanta' make something of it?
> Maybe the Stars and Bars will help with recognition too.
If you're going for max visibility, I suggest you avoid silver-grey (or
any light colour)... that colour merges very well with clouds. Harking
back to our RNZAF visibility project, they found the best colour scheme
was bright yellow, with large black areas (all the control surfaces).
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderaon" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adell clamps |
> > I am getting ready to start wiring soon and was wondering what the most
> > common size adell clamps to buy for our purposes? Also how many approx.
of
> > each size should I buy?
Randy Lervold's suggestion of getting a few of each size to start is a good
one. I would add the following however. In the engine compartment, if you
want to do things right, you'll use adel clamps not wire ties to attach most
things to the engine mount tubes. I'd therefore get some extras of whatever
size fits around the engine mount tubes. I used a fair number of these.
Don't remember offhand what the OD of those tubes are but its easy enough to
measure it. Also what size are your brake and fuel lines? Might measure
those thigns and try to guess how many extras you'll need for them. Also I
used adel clamps at the brake line/gear leg tube (RV-6) and these were BIG
adel clamps -- -26 if I recall. Not available from Vans but Spruce has em.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Warning: Incorrect prepunched hole location on RV-9A wings |
RV-9A wing builders, please take note:
The small prepunched pilot hole in the leading edge skins for the tiedown
eyebolt is about 3/16" too far forward (and possibly slightly too far
outboard as well). If you follow the instructions and enlarge this hole with
a Unibit while the skin is off of the wing, you will end up with a problem.
Realizing that I am one of the first builders, I did not want to leave
anything to chance, so I checked the alignment before drilling. I was able
to file the hole into the correct location. I have informed Van's of this.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderaon" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
[snip]
> According to my corrected myopic orbs, in bright
> daylight, the silhouette of an approaching aircraft appears much sooner
> than the winking of the strobes.
...
> Having said that, it seems to my feeble way of cogitating that strobes
> are only useful in conditions of very low visibility or darkness.
...
My response is that there's a lot of in-between where the strobes are also
useful. Only a few days ago I experienced an example of this. Was getting on
towards dusk with a mid-level overcast, 10+ miles visibility underneath. I
was talking to a buddy in an RV-4 on the radio, and we were really having
trouble finding each other. When I finally spotted him he was about 3 or 4
miles away, and all I could see were his strobes. Would have thought I'd see
his silhouette first, but I guess not at that distance. Anyway it was still
pretty light out, but against the gray clouds the strobes showed up well.
So that's the thing -- there are a lot more conditions than just "light" and
"dark" (at least in my neck of the woods!) and in some conditions the paint
scheme will be important for visibility, in others the strobes. So paint
your plane like a peacock and light it up like a christmas tree and you'll
be in good shape!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adell clamps |
> Randy Lervold's suggestion of getting a few of each size to start is a
good
> one. I would add the following however. In the engine compartment, if you
> want to do things right, you'll use adel clamps not wire ties to attach
most
> things to the engine mount tubes. I'd therefore get some extras of
whatever
> size fits around the engine mount tubes. I used a fair number of these.
They are -12s, at least for the RV-8 engine mount.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, N558RL, fwf stuff
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
www.RV8ing.com coming soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
Randall,
Where I fly (west valley of Phoenix), the visability is often quite poor and
when you are approaching the Glendale airport, it is difficult to pick out a
lower flying plane against the background of clutter. I've noticed that
strobes do help there also. When I am the lower aircraft, I can easily pick
them out silhoueted against the blue sky (always blue here, except the haze
down low!). I am planning to run bright strobes, but not A-4 units.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderaon <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be?
>
> [snip]
> > According to my corrected myopic orbs, in bright
> > daylight, the silhouette of an approaching aircraft appears much sooner
> > than the winking of the strobes.
> ...
> > Having said that, it seems to my feeble way of cogitating that strobes
> > are only useful in conditions of very low visibility or darkness.
> ...
>
> My response is that there's a lot of in-between where the strobes are also
> useful. Only a few days ago I experienced an example of this. Was getting
on
> towards dusk with a mid-level overcast, 10+ miles visibility underneath. I
> was talking to a buddy in an RV-4 on the radio, and we were really having
> trouble finding each other. When I finally spotted him he was about 3 or 4
> miles away, and all I could see were his strobes. Would have thought I'd
see
> his silhouette first, but I guess not at that distance. Anyway it was
still
> pretty light out, but against the gray clouds the strobes showed up well.
>
> So that's the thing -- there are a lot more conditions than just "light"
and
> "dark" (at least in my neck of the woods!) and in some conditions the
paint
> scheme will be important for visibility, in others the strobes. So paint
> your plane like a peacock and light it up like a christmas tree and you'll
> be in good shape!
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
>
> John Ammeter wrote:
> > I've thought about that surgery, too. One question/concern I've got
> > is that my eyesight seems to be changing more now that I'm in my early
> > 50's. Will the surgery be a 'permanent' fix or will I have to have
> > more surgical corrections later? I know I'll have to wear reading
> > glasses after the surgery. That will be a new thing for me as, being
> > nearsighted, I can easily read now without glasses.
>
> It's probably not worth it... I think if I was 20, I *might* go for it
> though. It's pretty normal for eyes to become more and more long-sighted
> after the owner turns 40.
>
> Incidentally, IIRC pilots (or maybe only CPLs?) aren't allowed to have
> laser eye surgery... if you do, you lose your medical. This may only
> apply here in NZ, but perhaps also the USA??? (Or I may have got it
> completely wrong). As I understand it, this is because the long-term
> effects of the surgery aren't known.
>
> Frank.
>
FAA does not care as long as you can meet the visual requirements.
6 years ago I had the old old fashioned RK and can still
see perfect without glasses except for close up reading.
It is much better to have it done at a older age rather than
younger because our eyes tend to stabilize as we age.
If I was doing it now I would have the lasik, I don't even
know if they do RK anymore but either way definitely have it done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adell clamps |
I purchased a bag of these things at SNF for $9.95. There are 50 in varying
sizes. This comes to $.20 each. They are new and most have the word "Adel"
stamped on them, so I suppose they are of good quality. Not all have "MS"
numbers but some do. The ones that do have the number can be compared to
Van's catalog price. Van's prices run from $.35 to $.85 depending on size.
I may never get around to using these things, but I think I got a good deal.
(G)
Tom Barnes -6 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 8:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Adell clamps
>
> I am getting ready to start wiring soon and was wondering what the most
> common size adell clamps to buy for our purposes? Also how many approx. of
> each size should I buy?
>
> Thanks
> John Danielson
> Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Gauthier <blunist(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trim Clearance |
I had to trim the plate, "A lot".... I mean I really had to trim so much..
Take a look at close of photo's in my web page.. I hope they will help you,
Ted Gauthier
RV-6, pro-sealing fuel tank
Pontiac, Mich.
blunist(at)flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~blunist
ENewton57(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> OK, I just finished the part I've been putting off, installing the electric
> elevator trim servo in left elevator. Proud as a peacock about the
> installation, I hooked it up to a battery and ran it stop to stop. My
> problem is, when I run it all the way out, the arm where the rod screws in
> makes contact with the reinforcement plate.
> Any suggestions? I can't see mounting it any further back as that would
> interfere with the spar. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A (empennage almost done - waiting for wing kit to arrive)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stank-1(at)webtv.net (frank stankiewicz) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 51 Msgs - 05/04/00 |
Navaid servo. Mine is mounted under the pax seat and I have had to get
at MANY times , in the proses of geting the thing to work properly. If
mounted in the wing it would have been IMPOSABLE for me to get mine to
work. Frank Stankiewicz
N25 BF 6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | "Help!!!! Badges for Oshkosh Need some Input |
Listers
I have offered to do some kind of an engraved badge for the list members,
so we can know each other at Oshkosh this year. I will need some input as to
what we want the badges to contain. I can come up with a few ideas, but think
the list should have a say on how they would like theirs. They will be NO
CHARGE, I feel this is the least I can do for all the cap orders and panels I
have gotten on this great tool. So give me some ideas and I will get busy and
try to have somthing by the end of the week and post some pictures of the
badge so we can come to an agreement and get this done and out before
Oshkosh.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 gear leg bolts |
RV8'ers,
The manual mentions that you will have to re-torque the gear leg bolts at
about 50 hours of airframe time. Well, they ain't kidding. I have over 80
hours on my -8 so far, and both legs started to make subtle creaking,
clicking noises. (The airplane's legs, NOT mine.) Once the outboard bolts
that hold the steel U block on over the leg were tightened, problem fixed.
Now, keep in mind these particular bolts with their nuts buried deep inside
the outboard weldments are a BEAR to get at. With wiring, brake and vent
lines, etc. running through the gear bulkheads, you'll have quite a time
just getting a socket in there.
So, instead of torqueing these bolts so that you have the specified gap
between the U block and the wear plate, crank the suckers down so they are
tight....NOW. This is strictly my opinion on the subject, and goes against
the manual, but I wish I had cranked them down when I could get to them
without suffering neck strain, wrist bruises and a running tab at my
chiropractor's office. Still, this is one helluva plane! Some things are
worth the pain.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
off to Roswell to dogfight aliens tomorrow. Plasma guns to full!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony Wiebe" <awiebe(at)cadvision.com> |
| Subject: | Vision - not RV related |
In you pre-assessment appointment, any credible practice offering the
surgery will question whether or not your eye-sight has changed in the past
two or so years. If it has, you will not be a candidate for the surgery.
Sorry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie and
Tupper England
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision - not RV related
much snipped
>
> I've thought about that surgery, too. One question/concern I've got
> is that my eyesight seems to be changing more now that I'm in my early
> 50's. Will the surgery be a 'permanent' fix or will I have to have
> more surgical corrections later? I know I'll have to wear reading
> glasses after the surgery. That will be a new thing for me as, being
> nearsighted, I can easily read now without glasses.
>
> My eyesight now is roughly 20/60 or 20/70 without glasses (and
> astigmatism, too).
>
> Your thoughts??
>
> John Ammeter
Preface: no personal experience, just desire.
You've heard the old saw, "If you wait until that new faster computer
comes out to buy one, you'll never own a computer."
Well, just when I thought I had screwed up my courage enough to let
somebody slice of the front of my eye & burn its innards, along comes
something new.
If this is old news to those of you contemplating eye surgery, sorry,
but no ones mentioned it yet so here goes.
The new technique involves making a tiny slit at the edge of the cornea
& inserting what amounts to a split washer or doughnut in (behind?
under?) the cornea. This stretches & reshapes the cornea & if they get
it wrong they simply pull it out & insert another, almost like changing
a lens.
I like the fact that a 'flap' isn't cut from the cornea. There have been
some cases of problems with that, & I'm almost as hard on my eyes as I
am my car.
Sorry that I can't recall the name of the procedure, but if anyone's
seriously interested contact me off list & I'll find out when the clinic
opens on Monday.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony Wiebe" <awiebe(at)cadvision.com> |
| Subject: | Vision - not RV related |
If you check the numbers Hal you will find that the chances of having your
vision get worse as a result the Lasik procedure are much less than having a
general aviation accident. If a person qualifies for the procedure ... do
it. If you are not a good candidate for the Lasik method be aware that the
alternative (PRK) has a longer recovery time and therefore is more prone to
complications.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kempthornes
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision - not RV related
My wife is an optician, got her start working for my father the eye surgeon,
and agrees with others on antireflection coating. I know that with AF
coated camera lenses (all modern lenses have it) you do lose a tiny bit of
light but the image is still better. So it would be with seeing a light at
night as there would be less distraction from your own lights, moon etc.
Don't get so low that street lights bother you!
On lasik, in the early days, there were some failures wherein vision got
worse. It will not help with presbyopia - you will need readers!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box (rephrased) |
In a message dated 5/4/00 7:06:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
Increase over what? and at what speed?
>>
at 4000 ft msl 2400 rpm, 24 in manifold pressure I then pointed it up,
just beforeit stalled manifold pressure read 22 in.
Fred LaForge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adell clamps |
Listers:
About these clamps. I am just beginning tying things down like brake lines and
fuel lines. I am trying to decide how to attach the adell clamps. Drill a hole
and mount with an AN bolt and nut or a nut plate or what. I've looked around
and have seen a bunch of different ways. Suggestions please.
Randall Henderaon wrote:
>
> > > I am getting ready to start wiring soon and was wondering what the most
> > > common size adell clamps to buy for our purposes? Also how many approx.
> of
> > > each size should I buy?
>
> Randy Lervold's suggestion of getting a few of each size to start is a good
> one. I would add the following however. In the engine compartment, if you
> want to do things right, you'll use adel clamps not wire ties to attach most
> things to the engine mount tubes. I'd therefore get some extras of whatever
> size fits around the engine mount tubes. I used a fair number of these.
> Don't remember offhand what the OD of those tubes are but its easy enough to
> measure it. Also what size are your brake and fuel lines? Might measure
> those thigns and try to guess how many extras you'll need for them. Also I
> used adel clamps at the brake line/gear leg tube (RV-6) and these were BIG
> adel clamps -- -26 if I recall. Not available from Vans but Spruce has em.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adell clamps |
> About these clamps. I am just beginning tying things down like brake
lines and
> fuel lines. I am trying to decide how to attach the adell clamps. Drill
a hole
> and mount with an AN bolt and nut or a nut plate or what. I've looked
around
> and have seen a bunch of different ways. Suggestions please.
That's right, a nut/bolt or bolt/nutplate. If you can get to the back side
easily, then an AN nut/bolt work fine. Most places fwd of the firewall you
should probably use all metal lock nuts. You can get away with nylock nuts
fwd of the firewall but only in the less hot places. Where are the less hot
places? I don't know -- guess and go for it, or if in doubt, use the all
metal ones.
Anywhere you can't easily get to both sides, USE NUT PLATES. Yeah they're a
pain to install but you'll be much happier later. I have nut-plates on all
firewall attach points except for maybe three things, and of course those
are the only three things I've ever needed to mess with. (Hint: needle nose
vice grips work well for holding the bolt or nut on one side while you turn
it on the other).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2000 - The worse safety year in RV history? |
<1996 - 12 incidents, 9 fatalities
<1997 - 19 incidents, 3 fatalities
<1998 - 12 incidents, 8 fatalities
<1999 - 22 incidents, 4 fatalities
| Date: | May 06, 2000 |
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2000 - The worse safety year in RV history? |
Hi All,
As you can imagine I've watched this thread with some interest :-)
Bottom line, stats or no stats, just be careful out there.
Take it from someone who knows.
Bill Pagan
N565BW 1st Flight 12/19/99
Last Flight 4/1/00
>
>
><1996 - 12 incidents, 9 fatalities
><1997 - 19 incidents, 3 fatalities
><1998 - 12 incidents, 8 fatalities
><1999 - 22 incidents, 4 fatalities
>
><2000 - 7 incidents, 4 fatalities
>
>
>To make the statistic valid, you must compare then number of accidents per
>the number flying each year, or to even be more accurate the number of
>accidents per hour of flight of each plane.
>Since the number of RV's flying is rapidly increasing, it is not a valid stat
>to just look at total number of accidents.... Just my $0.02 worth...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
>
>All in all - I think my personal preference leans toward the -8 BUT I am a
>bit concerned about the resale value of my big investment. I'm aware that
>the tailwheel version may be less marketable than the nosewheel version.
>However, I do have a gut feeling that the RV-6 may be a better aircraft on
>the resale market - could this be true? (I have no logical reason for this
>assumption - just a gut feeling)
>
>What are your thoughts? I guess I'm fairly straight on all issues except
>ACCESIBLE storage for a solo pilot and resale value. I do understand that
>the RV-8 may be a bit easier to build since the main wing spar is pre
>assembled by Plogiston (sp?) and since the fuselage is also pre-punched.
>
Are,
I think the only way you can answer your questions about accessible storage
is to look at an -8. Charlie Douma has an -8 at Brampton. Terry Jantzi
can tell you how to contact Charlie. Picture at:
http://www.ontariorvators.org/members_pages/douma.htm
I wouldn't compromise your decision by considering resale value. Build
what you want, not what you think someone else might want five years down
the road.
Making all these decisions is the hardest part. The building process is
much more straight forward.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floor)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Hi Louis,
Sure I can do it. At least as of now I plan on going. (sixth year) I have
the room paid for anyway.
In the past I dealt with Bill B. Will have to find out who to see this
year. The past several years I have provided the tickets for the banquet
and when the date, time and place are decided, I will provide them again.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>>
>>At Vans Banquet
>>Cecil
>
>Hi Cecil,
>
>I've been filling in for you the past few years for Van's Banquet
>Tickets/Resrvations. This year, however, I may not make it to 'Kosh.
>Will
>you be attending this year, and will you be able to help in this
>regard? I
>can actually do the work needed on the phone and the RV-list, but I
>can't
>bring the name tags, etc.
>
>Louis
>
>Louis I. Willig
>larywil(at)home.com
>RV-4, N8ZW in my near future
>(610) 668-4964
>Philadelphia, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
For what its worth...
I flew MD-80s commercially. The MD-80 strobes are in the trailing edge
of the wing tips and about 80 feet from the cockpit. They are pretty
potent though I have no idea of the candle power. They are visible at
night for 20 miles or so. In daylight; however, they were invisible
outside of a mile or so, and, in most weather conditions, they were
useless. In other than day-VFR conditions they were an irritating
distraction in the cabin and the cockpit. Thus, we invariably turned
them off in night weather or haze, dark clouds, and/or during an IFR
approach. The MD-80 also had rotating anti-collision beacons top and
bottom. We usually turned them off also on a night IFR approach because
of the reflections in the cockpit. Even the landing lights would light
up the cockpit on a night weather approach.
Any strobe on an RV is going to be much closer to the cockpit than the
ones on an MD-80. In anything other than day VFR, you should be aware of
the disorientation that can be caused by very bright strobes or forward
shining anti collision beacons. Make sure you have them installed on
on/off switches.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adell clamps |
The Standard Aircraft Handbook has some neat diagrams on the correct and
incorrect mounting of wire bundles using these clamps. Check the back of
section 8.
Tom Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 12:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Adell clamps
>
> Listers:
>
> About these clamps. I am just beginning tying things down like brake
lines and
> fuel lines. I am trying to decide how to attach the adell clamps. Drill
a hole
> and mount with an AN bolt and nut or a nut plate or what. I've looked
around
> and have seen a bunch of different ways. Suggestions please.
>
> Randall Henderaon wrote:
>
> >
> > > > I am getting ready to start wiring soon and was wondering what the
most
> > > > common size adell clamps to buy for our purposes? Also how many
approx.
> > of
> > > > each size should I buy?
> >
> > Randy Lervold's suggestion of getting a few of each size to start is a
good
> > one. I would add the following however. In the engine compartment, if
you
> > want to do things right, you'll use adel clamps not wire ties to attach
most
> > things to the engine mount tubes. I'd therefore get some extras of
whatever
> > size fits around the engine mount tubes. I used a fair number of these.
> > Don't remember offhand what the OD of those tubes are but its easy
enough to
> > measure it. Also what size are your brake and fuel lines? Might measure
> > those thigns and try to guess how many extras you'll need for them. Also
I
> > used adel clamps at the brake line/gear leg tube (RV-6) and these were
BIG
> > adel clamps -- -26 if I recall. Not available from Vans but Spruce has
em.
> >
> > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
> > Portland, OR
> > http://www.edt.com/homewing
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> I have read all the responses to this thread thus far and feel that a key
> point is being left out, likely because we are all too nice to bring it up.
> When building a homebuilt, one of the things that one must take into account
> is that homebuilt's safety record. I'm not talking about the company's
> record, I am talking about THAT particular aircraft's statistics. How
> many -8's are flying? How many -6's? How many -4's? Of all of those, how
> many of each are loss due to structural failure, do eye witnesses to that
> say the aircraft was straight and level or doing hammerheads at 200+. I
> really wanted to build a tandem, and in the end that is what I am
> building.......but at the time (not very long ago) there were not very many
> 8's in the air and the grand total of flown hours were less than the number
> of hours to build just one of them.... Statistics are crap, we all know
> that.....but the number of hours flown are still not high enough to call
> the -8 'Van's latest and greatest' as I've seen in here a number of times.
> The latest design released is not always the greatest, and just as the RV-3
> had to be modified to strengthen it's wings, it's possible the -8 may need
> some attention in that area as well. At Sun and Fun this year, I know for a
> fact I heard at least a dozen conversations about the -8 wings and not one
> of them were in favor of the shorter spar than the -6 and -4. Combine that
> with the area of seperation of the factory wing and it does make the average
> engineer say hmmmmm. I really wanted to build a -8, I mean I really really
> wanted to....but in the end I had to choose the design that was most proven
> and offered what I wanted in seating arrangement. I know I'll get all kinds
> of responses here from proud owners defending their decision and I respect
> that. But all pride aside, numbers are numbers....and the -8 is still
> pretty new.
>
> I am not starting a war here, but new people on this list asking point blank
> questions should be given all of the information available from a body of
> knowledge like this. Deciding which to build is the largest decision a
> builder is faced with.........I suggest a lot of thought, a lot more
> research and keep in mind the human factor to love what we bought and
> build.....regardless.
>
> Bill
> -4
>
>
You should also be fair and tell the newcomers about how
much testing and re-examining of the spar was done after
the accident. Don't just tell one side without giving all
the facts. BTW tell me about the average engineer saying
hmmmmm. Where they there when testing was being done?
Were they doing any analysis of the spar? are they aircraft engineers?
You may not be starting a war but you did say newcomers should be given
ALL the information available then you proceed to leave the other half
out.
That makes me go hmmmmm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Adel clamps-Tip O' the day |
Today's Tip O' the day:
Here's a neat tool to hold "adel" or cushion clamps while your trying to thread
on a washer and nut.
1. Take an old hacksaw blade and cut it down to about 4" long.
2. Grind off the teeth.
3. Grind a "V" in the end, about 1/4" wide by 1" long.
4. Slightly sharpen the "V" so it will engage a #10 screw's thread.
Now you put the clamp around the thing your holding, compress the clamp, insert
a screw, then slide the tool up to the thread.
The tool will keep the clamp from moving and hold the screw in place while you
thread a washer and nut on to the screw.
My father developed this technique back when he worked on the Lockheed Electra
and passed it on to me where it worked well on my RV-6.
Also, the Aeroelectric Connection web site (http://www.aeroelectric.com/) also has or had (I couldn't access right now, so I'm not sure if it's still there) a page that shows you everything you wanted to know about adel clamps but were afraid to ask.
Hopes this helps,
Laird RV-6 22923
SoCal (final assy)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
I knew someone out there would go off the defensive end. So rather than
explain why my previous work experience and training made me say hmmmm, I'll
just ask you to explain how one out of 27 is a failure rate that should not
be considered. I asked Van's people when I ordered my kit how many -8's
were flying.....the answer was about 27 (though more are up now). In the
past we considered a 4 % failure rate to be pretty horrible......but that
was only missiles, not aircraft....I appologize for ruffling your feathers.
Oh, and I would have built an 8 instead only I intend mucho aerobatics, so
I'm not saying the aircraft is bad....just that the mission of your aircraft
needs to be considered and it's history studied before a choice is made.
Now put the gun down and back away......
Bill Shook
(formerly of) Martin Marietta Component failure analysis team
-4 builder
> You should also be fair and tell the newcomers about how
> much testing and re-examining of the spar was done after
> the accident. Don't just tell one side without giving all
> the facts. BTW tell me about the average engineer saying
> hmmmmm. Where they there when testing was being done?
> Were they doing any analysis of the spar? are they aircraft engineers?
> You may not be starting a war but you did say newcomers should be given
> ALL the information available then you proceed to leave the other half
> out.
> That makes me go hmmmmm.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
You know our chapter met at a members home last month to view his highly
modified Varieze design. In the course detailing his ideas he made the
statement that no Variezes have had wings fall off like RVs. Well, needless
to say that caused several throats to need clearing in the crowd. But, sadly
this guy didn't realize how even ill informed statements like that hurt us
all. Clearly, he didn't know what he was talking about, but I am still
chapped that anyone would, even in jest, make a statement like that.
Glad to see you back Jerry.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Still undecided
>Date: Sat, May 6, 2000, 2:19 PM
>
>
> You should also be fair and tell the newcomers about how
> much testing and re-examining of the spar was done after
> the accident. Don't just tell one side without giving all
> the facts. BTW tell me about the average engineer saying
> hmmmmm. Where they there when testing was being done?
> Were they doing any analysis of the spar? are they aircraft engineers?
> You may not be starting a war but you did say newcomers should be given
> ALL the information available then you proceed to leave the other half
> out.
> That makes me go hmmmmm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
snip
> Any strobe on an RV is going to be much closer to the cockpit than the
> ones on an MD-80. In anything other than day VFR, you should be aware of
> the disorientation that can be caused by very bright strobes or forward
> shining anti collision beacons.
snip
IMHO If the wing tip strobes are mounted low enough to be out of the direct
vision of the pilot, it is not a problem VFR. I did not notice any
distraction when I flew my RV-6 at night for the first time last month. I
used Van's fiberglass mount to attach my Whelen's to the wingtips with the
fixture is low enough that no part of it can be seen from the cockpit. I
did notice a soft glow shining through the unpainted wingtips from the white
nav light.
No flame intended, just my experience FWIW
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
Listers,
I starting to install my wheel pants & fairings.
The instruction manual advises to take the weight off of the airframe so
that the wheels will be in proper trail simulating the pants position in
flight.
What is the best way, & safe way to lift the aircraft, wings are not
installed yet.
I could do this at the airport using wing jacks, but I am much more
efficient working in the garage & want to complete these tasks prior to
final assembly.
Please advise....Mark
Mark Steffensen
8A final stages
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
Come on Bill that is not a fair statement to make about about going
off the deep end. Your own statement said that newcomers should have
all the fact and you left out the half about engineering and testing
that
went in to the spar after the accident.
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> I knew someone out there would go off the defensive end. So rather than
> explain why my previous work experience and training made me say hmmmm, I'll
> just ask you to explain how one out of 27 is a failure rate that should not
> be considered. I asked Van's people when I ordered my kit how many -8's
> were flying.....the answer was about 27 (though more are up now). In the
> past we considered a 4 % failure rate to be pretty horrible......but that
> was only missiles, not aircraft....I appologize for ruffling your feathers.
> Oh, and I would have built an 8 instead only I intend mucho aerobatics, so
> I'm not saying the aircraft is bad....just that the mission of your aircraft
> needs to be considered and it's history studied before a choice is made.
> Now put the gun down and back away......
>
> Bill Shook
> (formerly of) Martin Marietta Component failure analysis team
> -4 builder
>
> > You should also be fair and tell the newcomers about how
> > much testing and re-examining of the spar was done after
> > the accident. Don't just tell one side without giving all
> > the facts. BTW tell me about the average engineer saying
> > hmmmmm. Where they there when testing was being done?
> > Were they doing any analysis of the spar? are they aircraft engineers?
> > You may not be starting a war but you did say newcomers should be given
> > ALL the information available then you proceed to leave the other half
> > out.
> > That makes me go hmmmmm.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
Jerry,
In retrospect, perhaps you are right. My intention wasn't to start a thread
on the safety aspects of the -8 wing structure. What I meant to say was
that it's still young, bathed a bit in controversy and a new builder should
consider all his options and intentions before choosing. That's all I
meant, and I apologize for whatever part my post played in getting us off on
this tangent.
Bill
-4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Still undecided
>
>
> Come on Bill that is not a fair statement to make about about going
> off the deep end. Your own statement said that newcomers should have
> all the fact and you left out the half about engineering and testing
> that
> went in to the spar after the accident.
>
>
> Bill Shook wrote:
>
> >
> > I knew someone out there would go off the defensive end. So rather than
> > explain why my previous work experience and training made me say hmmmm,
I'll
> > just ask you to explain how one out of 27 is a failure rate that should
not
> > be considered. I asked Van's people when I ordered my kit how many -8's
> > were flying.....the answer was about 27 (though more are up now). In
the
> > past we considered a 4 % failure rate to be pretty horrible......but
that
> > was only missiles, not aircraft....I appologize for ruffling your
feathers.
> > Oh, and I would have built an 8 instead only I intend mucho aerobatics,
so
> > I'm not saying the aircraft is bad....just that the mission of your
aircraft
> > needs to be considered and it's history studied before a choice is made.
> > Now put the gun down and back away......
> >
> > Bill Shook
> > (formerly of) Martin Marietta Component failure analysis team
> > -4 builder
> >
> > > You should also be fair and tell the newcomers about how
> > > much testing and re-examining of the spar was done after
> > > the accident. Don't just tell one side without giving all
> > > the facts. BTW tell me about the average engineer saying
> > > hmmmmm. Where they there when testing was being done?
> > > Were they doing any analysis of the spar? are they aircraft engineers?
> > > You may not be starting a war but you did say newcomers should be
given
> > > ALL the information available then you proceed to leave the other half
> > > out.
> > > That makes me go hmmmmm.
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
' . '
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Steffensen <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 6:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings
>
> Listers,
>
> I starting to install my wheel pants & fairings.
>
> The instruction manual advises to take the weight off of the airframe so
> that the wheels will be in proper trail simulating the pants position in
> flight.
>
> What is the best way, & safe way to lift the aircraft, wings are not
> installed yet.
Good question, Mark. I saw this in the manual and decided to install the
wheel pants and gear leg fairings before hanging the engine, when the whole
thing is much lighter. Then it's just a matter of lifting the tail up and
putting shims under each wheel until the longerons are level. I had the
fuselage resting on a padded sawhorse under the main spar. If the engine
mount\nose gear is on, the airframe will balance on the nose wheel - sort of
a scary thought if the engine and all that weight is on there. BTW you
can't install the intersection fairings until the wings are on (I'm sure
that's obvious to you).
>
> I could do this at the airport using wing jacks, but I am much more
> efficient working in the garage & want to complete these tasks prior to
> final assembly.
What point will you use to jack the plane up? I have one of Van's little
jack point kits which goes at the bend in the lower gear leg, but this will
necessitate removing the gear leg fairing. More questions than answers, I
guess :>)
>
Jerry Carter
My RV-8A Web Site:
http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
__ I __
____ (+) ____
' . '
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another RV6A (N60WM) takes to the skies(long DNA) |
Hi RV'ers,
Almost 3 years ago, Yeller freight delivered all 4 kits of a prepunch 6A to
our house here at Treasure Coast Airpark, Ft Pierce, Florida. With an
unbelievable amount of support from the RV community, a great kit, and a very
supportive wife; it all came together Saturday at noon.I had a partner, Rob
Rimbold earlier in the program and we started off like a house afire, but
slacked off considerably after 6 months. I bought Rob's half about a half way
through. I kept a hot path to my nearest neighbor, Tom Benton; looking at his
flying 6A and borrowing tools and having someone to talk to about what did
Van really mean here in the plans or instructions. Tom Hahn, another
neighbor, provided much support and supplied many parts once I started
rigging the engine and panel. My brother-in-law, Sherrill Laney, would come
from NC and give me a big boost when things started to lag.
My day started early Saturday as I finished up some last minute details and
we had a starter solenoid that was not disengaging, so it was with an
optimistic outlook that I was trying to get all the little things buttoned
up. I talked to Rick Caldwell Friday nite and he said he did not put the
small jumper on the starter Bendix solenoid. When we tried to crank the first
time it would not start without the jumper. Put the jumper back on and it
started, but was still hanging. My neighbor and test pilot, Tom Hahn, showed
up and said we should put a diode on the firewall starter solenoid. I did not
understand the rationale, but was willing to trust him and give it a shot. It
worked!! Tom checked the rigging of flaps and ailerons and decided to tweak
them some. My wingtips (Sheared design aftermarkets) are not symetrical so we
just made the flaps and ailerons all the same and ignored the tip variations.
Tom flew two large laps around the field and landed without opening the
envelope because the most the airspeed indicator would read was 70 mph and
the alternator belt was slipping at the higher RPM. The airplane flew fine!!!
He thought we had a leak in the total pressure line and I'm thinking man that
would have to be a big leak to only read 70. I hooked a plastic tube on the
pitot and sat in the cockpit and blew lightly on the tube. Airspeed went up,
but altitude and VSI went down. H'mmm, that sounded like I had some tubing
cross wired at some of the T's. A look under panel and everything looked in
order. After some cogitating ,it dawned on me that the only common link was
the ASI. Clamped the static link off behind the ASI. Now the blowing had no
effect on the Altimeter and VSI. The ASI would only jump on the transient.
Yuk, a leak internal in the ASI. Glad Hahn was flying instead of me with a
faulty airspeed. The ASI is out of warranty, but Century indicated he might
be able to help me. It might be worth it to make a little water U tube
manometer and calibrate the ASI, VSI, and Altimeter when you receive them,
because most of us probably do not fly the first time until the warranty
expires. Century said shelf life is harder on instruments than use. Seems
like a common thread on airplane parts!! Hope I can keep'em exercised
sufficiently once we get it sorted out.
My friend Jan Bussell who is CFII, brought his 6A over and gave me some
transition time and endorsed my logbook so that AOPA insurance will cover me
from the start. By the way, AOPA insurance was 2/3 rds of Avemco's price and
with more coverage. So much for our EAA sanctioned homebuilders insurance! I
had a EAA technical advisor sign off three times so that I could be insured
on the first flight. Good practice, but not a good deal on insurance.
My 25 hour flyoff is a 50 mile radius around Okeechobee. If you live in that
radius, you might expect me to drop in on you. I hope to fly some meaningful
test , but have also been known to participate in some serious hangar flying.
Bernie Kerr
Aircraft Description
_______________________
RV6A N60WM 160 HP factory new lycoming Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop
Paint is still multicolor primer cowling is Sam James holy cowl hot tip
type tips
Tracy Saylor leg fairings and tip lenses covers Becki Orndorf cushions
RCG battery from B&C (11 pounds) mounted above brake pedals stb side
DG and artificial horizon Navaid wing leveler Apollo 40 com King xp Ack
encoder
Grand Rapids EIS 4000 with fuel flow option Van's wheelpants
Jim Franz's AOA
empty weight 1029
perfomance to be determined
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adel clamps-Tip O' the day |
Laird -
Great post - but wasn't this tool discovered in Austria? It is known over
there as the Adel -vise :-))
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 2:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Adel clamps-Tip O' the day
>
> Today's Tip O' the day:
>
> Here's a neat tool to hold "adel" or cushion clamps while your trying to
thread on a washer and nut.
>
> 1. Take an old hacksaw blade and cut it down to about 4" long.
> 2. Grind off the teeth.
> 3. Grind a "V" in the end, about 1/4" wide by 1" long.
> 4. Slightly sharpen the "V" so it will engage a #10 screw's thread.
>
> Now you put the clamp around the thing your holding, compress the clamp,
insert a screw, then slide the tool up to the thread.
>
> The tool will keep the clamp from moving and hold the screw in place while
you thread a washer and nut on to the screw.
>
> My father developed this technique back when he worked on the Lockheed
Electra and passed it on to me where it worked well on my RV-6.
>
> Also, the Aeroelectric Connection web site (http://www.aeroelectric.com/)
also has or had (I couldn't access right now, so I'm not sure if it's still
there) a page that shows you everything you wanted to know about adel clamps
but were afraid to ask.
>
> Hopes this helps,
>
> Laird RV-6 22923
> SoCal (final assy)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
Mark -
I just finished that part and asked the same question. The answer I got back
the most often was to lift the front of the fuselage with the motor mount. I
used a portable engine crane but a chain thrown over the rafters could do
the same thing. Just be sure that whatever you lift your airplane with can
take at least 1000 pounds of dead weight.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 5:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings
>
> Listers,
>
> I starting to install my wheel pants & fairings.
>
> The instruction manual advises to take the weight off of the airframe so
> that the wheels will be in proper trail simulating the pants position in
> flight.
>
> What is the best way, & safe way to lift the aircraft, wings are not
> installed yet.
>
> I could do this at the airport using wing jacks, but I am much more
> efficient working in the garage & want to complete these tasks prior to
> final assembly.
>
> Please advise....Mark
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8A final stages
> Dallas, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil door latch alternatives? |
Brian,
I have not seen them in any of the supply books. The name on the latch is
CAMLOC Model KM680.
Gary Gembala
Building again after stoping to learn to fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
----- Original Message -----
From: lucky macy <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 8:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Still undecided
>
> NOT!
>
> you just have lower standards :-)
>
> why do I have to look at pictures? I've been in them now.
Sorry, I guess I misunderstood you. I did not realize that you had actually
flown in an RV-8 from the back seat. Most people who have are impressed
with the visibility, as I was. The pics at the RVator site show the
approach to the runway from the back seat. The way some people talk, one
would think that all you can see from back there is the hair on the back of
the pilot's neck.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Still undecided
>
> I have read all the responses to this thread thus far and feel that a key
> point is being left out, likely because we are all too nice to bring it
up.
> When building a homebuilt, one of the things that one must take into
account
> is that homebuilt's safety record. I'm not talking about the company's
> record, I am talking about THAT particular aircraft's statistics. How
> many -8's are flying? How many -6's? How many -4's?
Gee, I personally believe one has to analyze their own requirements. I
like flying by myself and absolutely hate to take a passenger in my -4 (I
don't care how good looking she is) as weight in the back seat does affect
the performance. Want a fighter type aircraft????? Then get yourself
a -4!! Want a family sedan?? then get a -6. No Flame intended, just
honestly analyze your requirements. There is an RV available to fit your
needs! I personally agree with Bill! I likes them RV-4's!!!!!!!! Fun
flying!!!!
Best regards and safe flying to all!
Deal Fair
N34CZ (-4) 1,400 hours +
George West, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Randolph 912 slosh |
I used slosh in one of my fuel tanks to seal a leak at the rear baffle rather than
disassemble and reassemble. Sealed the small leak but now after being warned
about sloshing tanks I am wondering if I did the right thing. Have any of
you used slosh in the fuel tanks and for those flying if used have you ever had
signs of slosh peeling or flaking?
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing right wing, awaiting fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Randolph 912 slosh |
--- David Ford wrote:
> I used slosh in one of my fuel tanks to seal a leak
> at the rear baffle rather than disassemble and
> reassemble. Sealed the small leak but now after
> being warned about sloshing tanks I am wondering if
> I did the right thing. Have any of you used slosh
> in the fuel tanks and for those flying if used have
> you ever had signs of slosh peeling or flaking?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 finishing right wing, awaiting fuselage
Dave:
My RV-6 has been flying over 2.5 years and 541 hours.
I used the slosh painted on over the proseal that Van
recommended back then. I also poured it in along the
back baffle. So far, NO problems. I did scuff all
alclad surfaces that got proseal before assembly.
I did help disassemble the tanks on a flying RV that
had a leak. They were tried to be fixed by sloshing
but the slosh was not compatible with the slosh that
was used originally. The second slosh was yellow and
the original was white. They are not compatible with
each other. All the slosh shriveled up and made a big
mess. If I remember correctly, the white is auto fuel
compatible (resists alcohol) and the yellow is avgas
only. We removed the tanks from the airplane, drilled
out the rivets holding on the rear baffle and removed
the rear baffle. Everything was cleaned out and all
seams scuffed, proseal filet seals applied, and
reassembled using the original parts plus inspection
covers in each bay. The tanks were then pressure
tested and had no leaks.
This was over 6 years ago and the airplane is still
flying. I am not aware of any leaks or slosh problem
after the repair.
There are RVs that have had problems with slosh. If
the metal is not scuffed and cleaned properly, it
could come off. Also, if you had AvGas in the tanks,
drained, then tried to slosh; it is possible that the
slosh would not stick.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV6A (N60WM) takes to the skies(long DNA) |
> Bernie Kerr
>
>My 25 hour flyoff is a 50 mile radius around Okeechobee. If you live in
that
>radius, you might expect me to drop in on you. I hope to fly some
meaningful
>test , but have also been known to participate in some serious hangar
flying.
> Aircraft Description
> _______________________
>
> RV6A N60WM 160 HP factory new lycoming Sensenich fixed pitch metal
prop
Congratulations on another first flight!!
I noticed you said your fly-off time was 25 hours, even though the
engine/prop combo is not found on a certified plane, unless I'm mistaken.
Do I not understand the difference between 25 and 40 hour test times?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank & Marilyn Hutchins <rvflyers(at)frontier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Los Alamos Correction |
I am the pilot of the RV-4 that suffered damage at the Los Alamos (NM) Airport
on Friday, April 28, 2000. I was not injured. It would have been nice if the
two fellows who took it upon themselve to report this accident, had the courtesy
to contact me for details, and at least get my name right. Had I known what
kind of squirrely wind conditions exist at Los Alamos, I would have opted to
stay home. I have landed at Flagstaff, AZ, many times and there is a warning
about windshear & turbulence in the Flight Guide. Not so for Los Alamos, not
even in their zeroxed hand-out. Best as I can relate, there was a 90 degree
cross wind. After a couple of bounces, the RV started a turn to the left. I
applied full power for a go-around, did a steep bank to the right to avoid
hitting the fence that separated the airport from the highway (airborne), then
wings level, the 4 abruptly settled down to earth, crunching the landing gear,
prop, and tearing the engine partially off the engine mounts. It wasn't until
my husband-builder went to retrieve the plane that he realized the prop was in
full feather. This doesn't happen unless the high pitch stop fails. Evidently
it failed. This RV-4 could not stay airbourne under these conditions. I've
done a go-around in this RV-4 before, and with my 140+ lbs it literally leaps
off the ground, even at our mountain altitudes. (160hpLycoming contstant speed
prop) We will rebuild. This aircraft has given us 10 years of good service and
she deserves to fly again. Marilyn Hutchins
>
> Listers:
>
> Regarding my post on the Los Alamos RV-4 accident. Contrary to what I said,
> the NTSB report says NO injuries. I was thrown off by the format where it
> kind of says injuries: Pilot 1, but then it is a government form.
>
> I am sorry for the error. The photo certainly did not look like there would
> have been any injuries.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: conduit for the vertical stabilizer |
I'm working on the vertical stab (the skeleton is just about finished), and I haven't
completely figured out what antenna(s) or lights I need to mount on the
tip. I'd like to preserve my options, so I'm going to leave the fiberglass tip
off and do all of the tips when I work up enough nerve to start playing around
with the stuff. In the meantime, any
suggestions from listers on the size/location of conduit for wiring that I'll be
running through the stabilizer? Also, will I need to plan for some sort of
cutout later on in the tip rib (VS-802)?
Semper Fi,
John
RV-6 - skins on the horizontal stabilizer and the skeleton for the vertical stabilizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
I know I saw this recently, sorry if it's a repeat.
I have the tank dimple dies. Do you use them for both the ribs and
skin, or do you use them for the ribs, and dimple the skin with the
normal dies to leave a little room for the Proseal?
Thanks,
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Wings (tanks)
Parker, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HAROLD1339(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Randolph 912 slosh |
My tanks were sloshed in 1989 and recently I had to disassemble both tanks
and scrape out the peeling material. A real expensive mess.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another RV6A (N60WM) takes to the skies(long DNA) |
In a message dated 5/7/00 12:11:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
<< I noticed you said your fly-off time was 25 hours, even though the
engine/prop combo is not found on a certified plane, unless I'm mistaken.
Do I not understand the difference between 25 and 40 hour test times? >>
I did not understand it to be a combination, but that they are both
certified. I have known at least 4 new 6's with this combo that did not get
40 hours.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV6A (N60WM) takes to the skies(long DNA) |
Rv660wm(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 5/7/00 12:11:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
>
> << I noticed you said your fly-off time was 25 hours, even though the
> engine/prop combo is not found on a certified plane, unless I'm mistaken.
> Do I not understand the difference between 25 and 40 hour test times? >>
>
> I did not understand it to be a combination, but that they are both
> certified. I have known at least 4 new 6's with this combo that did not get
> 40 hours.
>
> Bernie
>
It's worth noting that 'your FSDO mileage may vary.' There are some
inspectors that will allow only 25 hrs with non-cert. props, etc. More
proof that the rules are what your personal inspector says they are.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank dimples |
> I have the tank dimple dies. Do you use them for both the ribs and
> skin, or do you use them for the ribs, and dimple the skin with the
> normal dies to leave a little room for the Proseal?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith Hughes
Use 'em for both sub structure and skins - on the tanks. The reason
you're using them at all is because some proseal will squeeze out
around the rivet and otherwise raise them above the skin where they
would have to be shaved. These dies let the rivet sink further to
allow for the film of proseal.
They are also good to use on the sub structure of the wing - makes a
little better dimple for the regular dimple of the rest of the skins to
snuggle down into.
Have fun! Proseal isn't all that bad!
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
AGAIN- at the risk ofbecoming a Persona-non-Grata-- people, even though
you feel this subject might be informative-it is NOT RV related. Lots of
us subscribe to more than one list. We must keep the bandwidth to a
minimum.
>
> If you check the numbers Hal you will find that the chances of having your
> vision get worse as a result the Lasik procedure are much less than having a
> general aviation accident. If a person qualifies for the procedure ... do
> it. If you are not a good candidate for the Lasik method be aware that the
> alternative (PRK) has a longer recovery time and therefore is more prone to
> complications.
>
>do not arhive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | RV-3 W&B - battery location |
Before placing the battery just forward of the main wing spar, I had
weighed the plane on bathroom scales, and got about 670 lbs on the main
gear and 29 lbs on the tail.
Recently I had the opportunity of weighing it on proper aircraft scales.
Now it comes in at 748 lbs on mains and 32 on tail (with oil and water).
This makes it nose heavy with a light pilot and full fuel.
Question is: If I move the battery all the way back in the baggage
compartment, do I have to subtract the weight of the battery from the 30
lbs allowed baggage, so I then can carry only 13 lbs of baggage?
Another question: With my extended fuel capacity (56 gallons - 33 in
wings 23 in fuselage) I want to set a gross weigh of 1300 lbs. Any idea
if the landing gear can handle that, or should I set a maximum weight
for landing?
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Delete Key (was: Vision - not RV related) |
Peter:
Your point is taken - Howver this subject was of interest to me and I
suspect many others.
I'd respectfully suggest that those not intersted in a subject use their
DELETE key. When I log on I review the subject lines and Delete a number of
them, including the porn & businees props. I also have a number of lists, in
addition to my work mail - but appreciate the freedom of choice.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
>From: Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision - not RV related
>Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 08:51:26 -0400
>
>
>AGAIN- at the risk ofbecoming a Persona-non-Grata-- people, even though
>you feel this subject might be informative-it is NOT RV related. Lots of
>us subscribe to more than one list. We must keep the bandwidth to a
>minimum.
>
>
> >
> > If you check the numbers Hal you will find that the chances of having
>your
> > vision get worse as a result the Lasik procedure are much less than
>having a
> > general aviation accident. If a person qualifies for the procedure ...
>do
> > it. If you are not a good candidate for the Lasik method be aware that
>the
> > alternative (PRK) has a longer recovery time and therefore is more prone
>to
> > complications.
> >
> >do not arhive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
RE: RV-6 Fuel Tank Vent Fitting on Fuselage
How far outboard from centerline of the fuselage should the fuel tank
ventline fitting be located so that it will not interfere with the
landing gear/fuselage intersection fairing that I haven't made yet?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
This is a post for Walt Fritz, a fellow RV-3 flyer/builder, who is not
active on the list. Walt is looking for another RV-3 kit to
build/finish. He would consider a kit(s) in any stage of completion.
Walt lives in the Indianapolis area and can be contacted at:
waltfritz(at)msm.com.
Happy Sunday,
Chuck Brietigam
RV-3's forever!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Brietigam <brietigam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location |
Finn Lassen wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>
> Before placing the battery just forward of the main wing spar, I had
> weighed the plane on bathroom scales, and got about 670 lbs on the main
> gear and 29 lbs on the tail.
>
> Recently I had the opportunity of weighing it on proper aircraft scales.
> Now it comes in at 748 lbs on mains and 32 on tail (with oil and water).
> This makes it nose heavy with a light pilot and full fuel.
>
> Question is: If I move the battery all the way back in the baggage
> compartment, do I have to subtract the weight of the battery from the 30
> lbs allowed baggage, so I then can carry only 13 lbs of baggage?
>
> Another question: With my extended fuel capacity (56 gallons - 33 in
> wings 23 in fuselage) I want to set a gross weigh of 1300 lbs. Any idea
> if the landing gear can handle that, or should I set a maximum weight
> for landing?
Finn, if you look at a set of RV-4 landing gear drawings and
dimensionally compare them to the RV-3s, you'll see that they are nearly
identical. The only difference is that the RV-4 gear is two inches longer.
So, I don't think the added weight here should pose much a problem to the
landing gear. But, I would look at adding gussets to the area where the
gear leg sockets are welded to the motor mount. An RV-3 has just a single
weld in this area. The RV-4 has added two gussets on each gear leg socket.
Chuck Brietigam--RV-3's forever!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
>
>Listers,
>
>I starting to install my wheel pants & fairings.
>
>The instruction manual advises to take the weight off of the airframe so
>that the wheels will be in proper trail simulating the pants position in
>flight.
>
>What is the best way, & safe way to lift the aircraft, wings are not
>installed yet.
>
>I could do this at the airport using wing jacks, but I am much more
>efficient working in the garage & want to complete these tasks prior to
>final assembly.
>
>Please advise....Mark
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A final stages
>Dallas, TX
>
Mark,
Jacking the plane off the ground is NOT, in my opinion, necessary. I
installed the wheel pants with the full weight of the airplane on the gear.
This way, the pants can be fitted for best alignment with the tires AND the
ground.
Worked for me and Pat Kirkpatrick's RV6A.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
89 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Glenn -
Mine are 2" aft of the firewall leading edge flange and 3" inboard from the
outer fuselage wall. Before you drill that hole, make sure you are out from
under the lower engine mount bracket.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 7:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Vent
>
> Hi,
>
> RE: RV-6 Fuel Tank Vent Fitting on Fuselage
>
> How far outboard from centerline of the fuselage should the fuel tank
> ventline fitting be located so that it will not interfere with the
> landing gear/fuselage intersection fairing that I haven't made yet?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Randolph 912 slosh |
David Ford wrote:
>
>
> I used slosh in one of my fuel tanks to seal a leak at the rear baffle rather
than disassemble and reassemble. Sealed the small leak but now after being warned
about sloshing tanks I am wondering if I did the right thing. Have any
of you used slosh in the fuel tanks and for those flying if used have you ever
had signs of slosh peeling or flaking?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 finishing right wing, awaiting fuselage
>
Dave I sloshed mine in 1988 and still no signs of peeling
(knock on wood). When I had the O-320 I used mogas and
after changing to an O-360 have run nothing but avgas for
the last 800 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Jerry Springer wrote:
> . When I had the O-320 I used mogas and
> after changing to an O-360 have run nothing but avgas for
> the last 800 hours.
>
Hi Jerry,
Can you describe for us the difference in performance with the engine change?
Planning on Arlington as usual this year?
Dave
RV6
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | parts list download |
Hi listers,
Matt used to have an Excel program available for download that listed the contents
of all the bags o' parts in the kits. I don't find it anymore, and the
archive gives the old address which doesn't work anymore. Anyone know the location
of the list now, or have one for a 6 that they can share with me?
Thanks for the help,
Dave
RV6
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
> The instruction manual advises to take the weight off of the airframe so
> that the wheels will be in proper trail simulating the pants position in
> flight.
>
> What is the best way, & safe way to lift the aircraft, wings are not
> installed yet.
The BEST way (IMHO) is to fit/align the wheel pants and gear leg fairings
with the engine mount off the plane. Lay the mount flat on the bench and
level it, and use plumb-bobs to align the pants and gear leg fairings
perfectly "in-trail". Avoids having to level the plane and measure and
string a bunch of lines. Sounds like you probably are past the point of
being able to do this however....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
> The BEST way (IMHO) is to fit/align the wheel pants and gear leg fairings
> with the engine mount off the plane. Lay the mount flat on the bench and
> level it, and use plumb-bobs to align the pants and gear leg fairings
> perfectly "in-trail". Avoids having to level the plane and measure and
> string a bunch of lines. Sounds like you probably are past the point of
> being able to do this however....
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
Randall,
Won't work with an RV-8, which was what the question was about. Think about
it, the landing gear is not connected to the engine mount on this "new
generation" design.
Come on over some time and I'll school ya on how an RV-8 is designed.
;-)
Randy Lervold
RV-8, where the landing gear is no longer connected to the engine mount, and
the wheels don't shimmy anymore.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Concerning STC of Sensenich prop |
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> > Bernie Kerr
> >
> >My 25 hour flyoff is a 50 mile radius around Okeechobee. If you live in
> that
> >radius, you might expect me to drop in on you. I hope to fly some
> meaningful
> >test , but have also been known to participate in some serious hangar
> flying.
>
> > Aircraft Description
> > _______________________
> >
> > RV6A N60WM 160 HP factory new lycoming Sensenich fixed pitch metal
> prop
>
> Congratulations on another first flight!!
>
> I noticed you said your fly-off time was 25 hours, even though the
> engine/prop combo is not found on a certified plane, unless I'm mistaken.
> Do I not understand the difference between 25 and 40 hour test times?
The 70CM series propeller is Type Certified for use on the Lycoming
O-320 series engines, per the Sensenich web site:
http://www.sensenich.com/new/70cmprop.htm
This allows a 25 hour fly-off for this engine/prop combination.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Sensenich prop, test phase completed in 25 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
If you've got a taildragger 3, 4, or 6, a good time to do this is just after
you've fit the engine mount and landing gear. Leave the fuselage up on
(padded) sawhorses and fit the gear leg fairings, wheel pants, etc. before
you hang the engine.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Osgood" <randbosgood(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | 6A J-channel question |
I am working on the 6A fuselage and cannot find how the two center J-channel
stringers attach at the bulkheads. Can someone point out the drawing # or
other reference to this?
Thanks in advance
Rick Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A J-channel question |
Rick, I also could not find this detail. I just cut the curved portion of
the J stringer off and bent the leg so it butted up against the bulkhead. I
then riveted this to the bulkhead. I believe I picked a common spot for the
rib that's on the other side.
Rick Caldwell
-6 52 hrs. Melbourne, FL
>From: "Rick Osgood" <randbosgood(at)peoplepc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: 6A J-channel question
>Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 12:33:07 -0700
>
>
>I am working on the 6A fuselage and cannot find how the two center
>J-channel
>stringers attach at the bulkheads. Can someone point out the drawing # or
>other reference to this?
>
>Thanks in advance
> Rick Osgood
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: 6A J-channel question |
>
>I am working on the 6A fuselage and cannot find how the two center J-channel
>stringers attach at the bulkheads. Can someone point out the drawing # or
>other reference to this?
>
>Thanks in advance
> Rick Osgood
It's been over 12 years since I worked on that part of the RV but I
seem to recall using one flush rivet where the J-channel contacted the
flange of the bulkhead. Just be sure when you drill or rivet the
skins on that you avoid that rivet.
The J-channel will be well secured by the skin when you're done.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kerr <ikkerr(at)pacbell.net> |
Hello all and listmaster,
I enjoy these lists very much. One thing which would really help
would be if the list would start with an "index" of the subjects in
the digest. Would there be any disadvantage?
There are too may interesting RV topics to read them all, and it's
tough to browse the current format.
Don't take this as too much criticism, other lists have it, and I was
wondering if it's just a feature which could be "turned on" in the
matronics listserver options.
regards,
Ian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Trouble linking to URLs |
Listers:
Is anyone else having trouble linking up with aeroelectric or
aamrelectric sites?
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
working with negatively charged particles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"RV-List: List Index" (May 7, 11:59am)
Ian,
Send me an example of what you're thinking of and I'll see what I can
do.
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
>--------------
>
>Hello all and listmaster,
>
>I enjoy these lists very much. One thing which would really help
>would be if the list would start with an "index" of the subjects in
>the digest. Would there be any disadvantage?
>
>There are too may interesting RV topics to read them all, and it's
>tough to browse the current format.
>
>Don't take this as too much criticism, other lists have it, and I was
>wondering if it's just a feature which could be "turned on" in the
>matronics listserver options.
>
>regards,
>
>Ian
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
> Randall,
> Won't work with an RV-8, which was what the question was about. Think
about
> it, the landing gear is not connected to the engine mount on this "new
> generation" design.
DOH! Man, these newfangled designs.... :-)
> Come on over some time and I'll school ya on how an RV-8 is designed.
Well I was going to come over and do a tech counselor visit but obviously
I'm not qualified.... :-) :-) :-)
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Trouble linking to URLs |
Hello, David and all:
> Is anyone else having trouble linking up with aeroelectric or
> aamrelectric sites?
I have been trying to get his new Version 9 as I need it soon. I wanted to
buy from him due to his support for all of us. Unfortunately, I had to
resort to Andy's Bookstore yesterday for this special book. Too bad. He
deserves our business where possible but he has had a lot of troubles with
his site. I plan to use him a lot when I get to the main electrical stuff.
I may have to plan for a long leadtime to work around his on-line
availability.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F-801L necessary? |
In putting together my firewall today, I noticed that the two F-801L backing
plates are actually anchor points for part of the adjustable rudder pedal
assembly (ref. dwgs. 21 & 34). Given that these two items must be fabricated
by yours truly, and in the interest of conservation of effort wherever
possible, can I omit these parts in light of my intended ground adjustable
rudder pedal installation?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
fuselage bulkheads & longerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location |
My -3 has the rear battery for the same reason as yours, big engine with a
starter. Let's think about this: The main reason the baggage compartment
is limited to 30lbs is because we don't ever want C.G. to get too far aft.
It's a C.G. thing, not specifically weight. So run the C.G for all possible
missions (low fuel, high fuel, bagge, no bagge. If 30lbs works (which it
most definately should), then that's your limit. Keep in mind that there's
no POH, your responsability in the first 28-40hrs is to gain enough
experience and data to write it yourself.
Bruce Meacham
RV-3 N3456B
----- Original Message -----
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 5:49 AM
Subject: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>
> Before placing the battery just forward of the main wing spar, I had
> weighed the plane on bathroom scales, and got about 670 lbs on the main
> gear and 29 lbs on the tail.
>
> Recently I had the opportunity of weighing it on proper aircraft scales.
> Now it comes in at 748 lbs on mains and 32 on tail (with oil and water).
> This makes it nose heavy with a light pilot and full fuel.
>
> Question is: If I move the battery all the way back in the baggage
> compartment, do I have to subtract the weight of the battery from the 30
> lbs allowed baggage, so I then can carry only 13 lbs of baggage?
>
> Another question: With my extended fuel capacity (56 gallons - 33 in
> wings 23 in fuselage) I want to set a gross weigh of 1300 lbs. Any idea
> if the landing gear can handle that, or should I set a maximum weight
> for landing?
>
> Finn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Los Alamos Correction |
Hello, Larry:
Please do not refrain from posting information on RV accidents when they
occur. This is public information available to all. As RV builders we are
all directly affected - especially when we're building or flying a similar
project. We shouldn't have to wait until the NTSB dots the final "i". Even
these reports often do not supply the information that we need to evaluate
our choices - especially our "comfort level". You had posted early
nformation (somewhat incorrect and incomplete at the time), as a service to
the List - but you acted entirely in good faith. Keep up the good work. A
lot of us appreciate it.
It would have been nice if the two fellows who took it upon themselve to
report this accident, had the courtesy to contact me for details, and at
least get my name right....
> I regret you took offense at my reporting of this accident. I was
contacted
> by a lister who wanted details and decided to post them to the list. I am
> especially sorry that I made an error in my report. I was not able to
> contact you because I do not know you and so had no way to know how to
> contact you. I gave the name as reported by the local newspaper and I
> certainly know that newspapers are often inaccurate.
>
> I have reported on accidents before when listers requested it and others
> have done the same. I will not do it again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location |
On weight. 50lbs over recomended gross is just that. 50 extra pounds. The
plane won't break just sitting there, but it will be 50lbs more likely to
break on a hard landing and 50lbs more likely to break the wings if you hit
turbullence or pull too hard.
Also... the 1050lbs aerobatic gross is A HARD LIMIT! Don't even think
about pulling more than 4.4gs above this loading. There's a lot of evidence
regardling the exact limits of the RV-3 wing. You are risking your life if
play this game.
Bruce Meacham
RV-3 N3456B
www.seanet.com/~bruceme/ShotGun.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 5:49 AM
Subject: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>
> Before placing the battery just forward of the main wing spar, I had
> weighed the plane on bathroom scales, and got about 670 lbs on the main
> gear and 29 lbs on the tail.
>
> Recently I had the opportunity of weighing it on proper aircraft scales.
> Now it comes in at 748 lbs on mains and 32 on tail (with oil and water).
> This makes it nose heavy with a light pilot and full fuel.
>
> Question is: If I move the battery all the way back in the baggage
> compartment, do I have to subtract the weight of the battery from the 30
> lbs allowed baggage, so I then can carry only 13 lbs of baggage?
>
> Another question: With my extended fuel capacity (56 gallons - 33 in
> wings 23 in fuselage) I want to set a gross weigh of 1300 lbs. Any idea
> if the landing gear can handle that, or should I set a maximum weight
> for landing?
>
> Finn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Trouble linking to URLs |
Just thought I would add that Andy's bookstore is a first rate source to get
materials, lest any new people get the wrong idea. I didn't think you were
implying otherwise but wanted to let any new listers know that I have sure had
great service from Andy. I certainly agree with wanting to support 'Lectric
Bob as I also am using his ideas and books. Actually this is a great dilemma
to have - too many great sources of help for us RV builders to support them
all. :-)
Doug Shenk RV6aqb
Ernest Kells wrote:
>
> Hello, David and all:
> > Is anyone else having trouble linking up with aeroelectric or
> > aamrelectric sites?
>
> I have been trying to get his new Version 9 as I need it soon. I wanted to
> buy from him due to his support for all of us. Unfortunately, I had to
> resort to Andy's Bookstore yesterday for this special book. Too bad. He
> deserves our business where possible but he has had a lot of troubles with
> his site. I plan to use him a lot when I get to the main electrical stuff.
> I may have to plan for a long leadtime to work around his on-line
> availability.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-801L necessary? |
>
>
>In putting together my firewall today, I noticed that the two F-801L
>backing
>plates are actually anchor points for part of the adjustable rudder pedal
>assembly (ref. dwgs. 21 & 34). Given that these two items must be
>fabricated
>by yours truly, and in the interest of conservation of effort wherever
>possible, can I omit these parts in light of my intended ground adjustable
>rudder pedal installation?
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>fuselage bulkheads & longerons
>
>
You won't need those little pieces for the ground adjustable pedals. Save
the effort. You'll need it for the gear boxes. hehe. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | parts list download |
I downloaded the spreadsheet recently but can't remember from where. I sent
it in a separate e-mail to Dave. If anyone else need it, feel free to e-mail
me.
Regards,
Are Barstad
RV6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David & Betty
Burton
Sent: May 7, 2000 1:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: parts list download
Hi listers,
Matt used to have an Excel program available for download that listed
the contents of all the bags o' parts in the kits. I don't find it anymore,
and the archive gives the old address which doesn't work anymore. Anyone
know the location of the list now, or have one for a 6 that they can share
with me?
Thanks for the help,
Dave
RV6
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
> Mark,
>
> Jacking the plane off the ground is NOT, in my opinion, necessary. I
> installed the wheel pants with the full weight of the airplane on the
gear.
> This way, the pants can be fitted for best alignment with the tires AND
the
> ground.
>
> Worked for me and Pat Kirkpatrick's RV6A.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 89 hrs.
I suppose with an -8 there is no twist of the gear between loaded and
unloaded, since they don't appear to be swept. However, on my 6A, I
aligned the leg fairings with no weight on the gear per the manual. After
they were done, I was amazed at how much they twist when the load is again
applied. Don't know how much speed/trim this translates to, but I'd guess
the trailing edge of the fairing is about 1/4" out of trim when the weight
is on the legs.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jjbaker <jjbaker(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Instruments for Inverted Flight |
Guys (and Dolls)
I was just in a Yak and noticed a turn coordinator for right-side-up as
well as up-side-down. Where do you get these types of specialty
instruments.
JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Randolph 912 slosh |
David:
My RV-4 is 10 years old and has sloshed fuel tanks. So far, no ill effects.
Stuck a flashlight in the tanks just yesterday during the annual--looks like
the day they were sloshed. On my RV-6, I elected not to slosh. Others have
reported the slosh flaking off, as you probably know.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ford <dford(at)michweb.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 1:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Randolph 912 slosh
>
> I used slosh in one of my fuel tanks to seal a leak at the rear baffle
rather than disassemble and reassemble. Sealed the small leak but now after
being warned about sloshing tanks I am wondering if I did the right thing.
Have any of you used slosh in the fuel tanks and for those flying if used
have you ever had signs of slosh peeling or flaking?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 finishing right wing, awaiting fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRawls3896(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | I need that first ride |
Well I'm into the wings pretty heavy and started thinking that I have't
had that first ride in a RV yet and hoping that someone in the Houston area
would read this a give me a call and make me a happy person. I'll buy the gas
and the Beer after were finished flying. How about it?
Mike in Deer Park (281-479-5968)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | Question re: conduit for the vertical stabilizer |
John,
I'm building an RV8 and I put a conduit in the vertical Stab for a VOR
antenna. I may have overdone it but I put a 1" split conduit in the vertical
stab. The conduit is the same as the stuff that's in car engine
compartments. I drilled holes just undersized (the conduit is ribbed)
through the ribs and pulled the conduit through. That captures the conduit
in the holes. I then used some of the same RTV I used for the rudder bend
to hold the ends in. If I had proseal at the time I would have used that.
Regards,
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: John Lawson
> Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 06:45 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Question re: conduit for the vertical stabilizer
>
>
> I'm working on the vertical stab (the skeleton is just about finished),
> and I haven't completely figured out what antenna(s) or lights I need to
> mount on the tip. I'd like to preserve my options, so I'm going to leave
> the fiberglass tip off and do all of the tips when I work up enough nerve
> to start playing around with the stuff. In the meantime, any
> suggestions from listers on the size/location of conduit for wiring that
> I'll be running through the stabilizer? Also, will I need to plan for
> some sort of cutout later on in the tip rib (VS-802)?
>
> Semper Fi,
> John
> RV-6 - skins on the horizontal stabilizer and the skeleton for the
> vertical stabilizer
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom" <tomrv8(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Trip to Kansas City Area |
Listers,
I'll be flying my RV-4 from San Antonio to the Kansas City area this coming
Saturday, May 13 for my nephews wedding. I'll be staying through Wednesday,
May 17. I'm planning on flying into the Johnson County Executive airport at
Olathe. Does anyone in the area know of any available hangar space for that
time frame? I'd prefer not to use the FBO's giant hangar (they damaged my
RV one other time i stayed there...they didn't know how to move the plane
with the non swivel tail wheel) I also don't mind staying at another
airport, although it needs to be somewhat close to the Overland Park\Olathe
area.
I'm also interested in seeing builders complete or under construction RV-8's
or -8a's. I would be game for flying anywhere within about a 100 mile radius
to view someone's project on Sunday or Monday, May 14 or May 15.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Please reply off list, TOMRV8(at)gvtc.com
Tom Chapman
San Antonio, Texas
210-861-7614
Flying RV-4 N153TK (850 hours)
Building RV-8 (working on fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Help!!!! Badges for Oshkosh Need some Input |
Name, type of A/C and State or Country should suffice!
PANELCUT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers
>
> I have offered to do some kind of an engraved badge for the list members,
> so we can know each other at Oshkosh this year. I will need some input as to
> what we want the badges to contain. I can come up with a few ideas, but think
> the list should have a say on how they would like theirs. They will be NO
> CHARGE, I feel this is the least I can do for all the cap orders and panels I
> have gotten on this great tool. So give me some ideas and I will get busy and
> try to have somthing by the end of the week and post some pictures of the
> badge so we can come to an agreement and get this done and out before
> Oshkosh.
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Los Alamos Correction |
Larry I also think you should continue as in the past. It's unfortunate
the other party took it the wrong way.
Ernest Kells wrote:
>
>
> Hello, Larry:
>
> Please do not refrain from posting information on RV accidents when they
> occur. This is public information available to all. As RV builders we are
> all directly affected - especially when we're building or flying a similar
> project. We shouldn't have to wait until the NTSB dots the final "i". Even
> these reports often do not supply the information that we need to evaluate
> our choices - especially our "comfort level". You had posted early
> nformation (somewhat incorrect and incomplete at the time), as a service to
> the List - but you acted entirely in good faith. Keep up the good work. A
> lot of us appreciate it.
>
> It would have been nice if the two fellows who took it upon themselve to
> report this accident, had the courtesy to contact me for details, and at
> least get my name right....
>
> > I regret you took offense at my reporting of this accident. I was
> contacted
> > by a lister who wanted details and decided to post them to the list. I am
> > especially sorry that I made an error in my report. I was not able to
> > contact you because I do not know you and so had no way to know how to
> > contact you. I gave the name as reported by the local newspaper and I
> > certainly know that newspapers are often inaccurate.
> >
> > I have reported on accidents before when listers requested it and others
> > have done the same. I will not do it again.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: parts list/plans page # download |
Listers:
Has anyone put together an excel program giving the plans page # for all the
parts. This would be a great help in finding the parts listed in the manual
but no plans page number given?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
North Carolina (N901LL res)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A J-channel question |
Rick,
On the the F606 end, I caught the rivet on the bulkhead tab that holds the
F623 to the bulkhead. Dimpled the J-stringer and Counter sunk the bulkhead
tab. The rivet goes through the F623, F606 tab, and J-stringer. On the
other end that attaches to the F610, I did it the hard way. Most builders
will make a tab that lays on top of the F610 and rivets to it. I elected to
cut the J-stringer about an 1/8th inch short of the F610. Put a .040 shim
under the stringer and make a new .032 tab that is riveted through the
J-stringer and.040 spacer. What this does is makes the stringer level with
the F679 which is the .040 tail skin.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Osgood <randbosgood(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 2:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6A J-channel question
>
> I am working on the 6A fuselage and cannot find how the two center
J-channel
> stringers attach at the bulkheads. Can someone point out the drawing # or
> other reference to this?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Rick Osgood
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank A. Reed" <fareed(at)ibm.net> |
This RV-6A is the first airplane in which I have had the luxury of a fuel
totalizer.
Just to keep it honest I am about to calibrate a stick to give me an
accurate reading of what is in each tank prior to takeoff. Before I go to
the task of draining a tank and then refilling it I am wondering if any 6A
owners have already done this and if they would share the calibration
marks. I did look in the archives and could not find a reference.
Thanks,
Frank Reed
RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location |
Interesting. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the 1050 lbs limitation is
with fuel in the fuselage tank and that one could safely add more in the wings.
Actually, that may be gross in regard to the 6G limit, not aerobatic limit,
which is the 1050 lbs.
Not that I intend to pull 6 Gs.
Finn
Bruce Meacham wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham"
>
> On weight. 50lbs over recomended gross is just that. 50 extra pounds. The
> plane won't break just sitting there, but it will be 50lbs more likely to
> break on a hard landing and 50lbs more likely to break the wings if you hit
> turbullence or pull too hard.
>
> Also... the 1050lbs aerobatic gross is A HARD LIMIT! Don't even think
> about pulling more than 4.4gs above this loading. There's a lot of evidence
> regardling the exact limits of the RV-3 wing. You are risking your life if
> play this game.
>
> Bruce Meacham
> RV-3 N3456B
> www.seanet.com/~bruceme/ShotGun.htm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 5:49 AM
> Subject: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
> >
> > Before placing the battery just forward of the main wing spar, I had
> > weighed the plane on bathroom scales, and got about 670 lbs on the main
> > gear and 29 lbs on the tail.
> >
> > Recently I had the opportunity of weighing it on proper aircraft scales.
> > Now it comes in at 748 lbs on mains and 32 on tail (with oil and water).
> > This makes it nose heavy with a light pilot and full fuel.
> >
> > Question is: If I move the battery all the way back in the baggage
> > compartment, do I have to subtract the weight of the battery from the 30
> > lbs allowed baggage, so I then can carry only 13 lbs of baggage?
> >
> > Another question: With my extended fuel capacity (56 gallons - 33 in
> > wings 23 in fuselage) I want to set a gross weigh of 1300 lbs. Any idea
> > if the landing gear can handle that, or should I set a maximum weight
> > for landing?
> >
> > Finn
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Trouble linking to URLs |
Hello, Doug:
I intended no harm to either Lectric Bob or Andy. Andy's Bookstore is
definitely one of the best resources available. Both Bob and Andy give a
lot of service to the List. Advice freely given, no bias against
competitors, unlimited help, great intrgrity. It doesn't get any better.
Newbies should learn (ask) who the great resources are. I think that Bob is
too nice a guy to jump all over the web developer/provider who is hurting
his business. I tried to buy from Bob because he is the author as well as
being so helpful. Perhaps he gets to keep more of the profit when he sells
direct???
>
> Just thought I would add that Andy's bookstore is a first rate source to
get
> materials, lest any new people get the wrong idea. I didn't think you
were
> implying otherwise but wanted to let any new listers know that I have sure
had
> great service from Andy. I certainly agree with wanting to support
'Lectric
> Bob as I also am using his ideas and books. Actually this is a great
dilemma
> to have - too many great sources of help for us RV builders to support
them
> all. :-)
> Doug Shenk RV6aqb
>
> Ernest Kells wrote:
>
> >
> > Hello, David and all:
> > > Is anyone else having trouble linking up with aeroelectric or
> > > aamrelectric sites?
> >
> > I have been trying to get his new Version 9 as I need it soon. I wanted
to
> > buy from him due to his support for all of us. Unfortunately, I had to
> > resort to Andy's Bookstore yesterday for this special book. Too bad.
He
> > deserves our business where possible but he has had a lot of troubles
with
> > his site. I plan to use him a lot when I get to the main electrical
stuff.
> > I may have to plan for a long leadtime to work around his on-line
> > availability.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location |
Hi All,
does anybody know if the "G" limit has changed with the new spec
wing spar ? or did van just beef it up and keep the existing figures?
Just curious.
Bruce Stewart
>--> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>
>Interesting. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the 1050 lbs
limitation is
>with fuel in the fuselage tank and that one could safely add more in the
wings.
>Actually, that may be gross in regard to the 6G limit, not aerobatic limit,
>which is the 1050 lbs.
>
>Not that I intend to pull 6 Gs.
>
>Finn
>
>Bruce Meacham wrote:
>
>> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham"
>>
>> On weight. 50lbs over recomended gross is just that. 50 extra pounds. The
>> plane won't break just sitting there, but it will be 50lbs more likely to
>> break on a hard landing and 50lbs more likely to break the wings if you hit
>> turbullence or pull too hard.
>>
>> Also... the 1050lbs aerobatic gross is A HARD LIMIT! Don't even think
>> about pulling more than 4.4gs above this loading. There's a lot of evidence
>> regardling the exact limits of the RV-3 wing. You are risking your life if
>> play this game.
>>
>> Bruce Meacham
>> RV-3 N3456B
>> www.seanet.com/~bruceme/ShotGun.htm
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 5:49 AM
>> Subject: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location
>>
>> > --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>> >
>> > Before placing the battery just forward of the main wing spar, I had
>> > weighed the plane on bathroom scales, and got about 670 lbs on the main
>> > gear and 29 lbs on the tail.
>> >
>> > Recently I had the opportunity of weighing it on proper aircraft scales.
>> > Now it comes in at 748 lbs on mains and 32 on tail (with oil and water).
>> > This makes it nose heavy with a light pilot and full fuel.
>> >
>> > Question is: If I move the battery all the way back in the baggage
>> > compartment, do I have to subtract the weight of the battery from the 30
>> > lbs allowed baggage, so I then can carry only 13 lbs of baggage?
>> >
>> > Another question: With my extended fuel capacity (56 gallons - 33 in
>> > wings 23 in fuselage) I want to set a gross weigh of 1300 lbs. Any idea
>> > if the landing gear can handle that, or should I set a maximum weight
>> > for landing?
>> >
>> > Finn
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
Bruce Stewart
Triton Diving Equipment
www.triton-dive.com
Lights, Backplates, Harnesses
Dry Suits, Bags, Rebreather Parts
Custom manufacturing
Available only on the Net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gusndale(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trouble linking to URLs |
Dave,
Yes, I'm having trouble with the aamrelectric site. I havn't been able
to reach it for about a week. I always end up at a aol page that says no
sites with that name exist. Is anyone able to reach aamrelectric's site?
It's making me begin to wonder if their still in business.
I have been able to reach the aeroelctric site just fine though.
Dale Wotring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 canopy rails |
My fellow "8ers"
Those canopy rails seem to run up onto the roll bar mounting brackets about
half an inch and then get chopped off square. Seems downright ugly. Is
there a prescribed or builder invented method to dress up this situation, and
if so, is it a thing to do before mounting the rails?
Thanks in advance.
Dennis Clay
#89473
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Corrossion on everything. |
> Hi Rvators,
I am wondering if anybody else has had the problem with corrosion along the edges
of all their skins and ribs etc.....It usually is in areas of about 6 inches long
and about half an inch long.
Vans has already replaced my spar due to corrosion.......just wondering...
Peter.
wings almost finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location |
Yes, aerobatic gross can safely be raised to 1050lbs + the weight of fuel in
the wings. But most of poor shmucks have the fuel right between our legs.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>
> Interesting. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the 1050 lbs
limitation is
> with fuel in the fuselage tank and that one could safely add more in the
wings.
> Actually, that may be gross in regard to the 6G limit, not aerobatic
limit,
> which is the 1050 lbs.
>
> Not that I intend to pull 6 Gs.
>
> Finn
>
> Bruce Meacham wrote:
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Bruce Meacham"
> >
> > On weight. 50lbs over recomended gross is just that. 50 extra pounds.
The
> > plane won't break just sitting there, but it will be 50lbs more likely
to
> > break on a hard landing and 50lbs more likely to break the wings if you
hit
> > turbullence or pull too hard.
> >
> > Also... the 1050lbs aerobatic gross is A HARD LIMIT! Don't even think
> > about pulling more than 4.4gs above this loading. There's a lot of
evidence
> > regardling the exact limits of the RV-3 wing. You are risking your life
if
> > play this game.
> >
> > Bruce Meacham
> > RV-3 N3456B
> > www.seanet.com/~bruceme/ShotGun.htm
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 5:49 AM
> > Subject: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location
> >
> > > --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
> > >
> > > Before placing the battery just forward of the main wing spar, I had
> > > weighed the plane on bathroom scales, and got about 670 lbs on the
main
> > > gear and 29 lbs on the tail.
> > >
> > > Recently I had the opportunity of weighing it on proper aircraft
scales.
> > > Now it comes in at 748 lbs on mains and 32 on tail (with oil and
water).
> > > This makes it nose heavy with a light pilot and full fuel.
> > >
> > > Question is: If I move the battery all the way back in the baggage
> > > compartment, do I have to subtract the weight of the battery from the
30
> > > lbs allowed baggage, so I then can carry only 13 lbs of baggage?
> > >
> > > Another question: With my extended fuel capacity (56 gallons - 33 in
> > > wings 23 in fuselage) I want to set a gross weigh of 1300 lbs. Any
idea
> > > if the landing gear can handle that, or should I set a maximum weight
> > > for landing?
> > >
> > > Finn
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location |
Van's still recomends 6G's as the aerobatic limit. And with all the testing
they did a few years back, that's a well documented limit for exiremental
home buits. I don't know for sure, but I'm under the impression that Van's
re-designed the spar to bring the new wings up to standard from the factory
without modification. If anyone has a new Wing and can explain the new spar
design, I'd love to hear about it.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV3-List: RV-3 W&B - battery location
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> does anybody know if the "G" limit has changed with the new spec
> wing spar ? or did van just beef it up and keep the existing figures?
>
> Just curious.
>
> Bruce Stewart
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rodney Boyd" <rboyd(at)dcccd.edu> |
Listers,
Will's comment (below) about the Judges Choice trophy that he won is just him being
modest. As it turns out, the Mayor of Terrell, Tx., who happens to really
like good looking airplanes, is the person responsible for choosing Will's 6A
for that trophy, not me (although I DID vote for it).
As it turns out, there were 3 excellent examples of RVs in attendance; Will's
6A, another 6A owned by Ken (sorry Ken I missed your last name) and a great looking
8. I didn't get a chance to meet the 8 owner. All were fantastic planes.
Thanks to all for attending in spite of wind speeds of up to 41 mph !
Rod
6A emp.
<>
>>> Will Cretsinger 05/06/00 05:21PM >>>
Rod, it was good to meet you at the Terrell flyin...but you really
didn't have to bribe the judges to give me a trophy! Charli is a work
horse and not supposed to win beauty prizes, but it is appreciated.
<>
Now get busy on your plane!
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
RV-6A flying through 190 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A J-channel question |
rick
to find the location of the 2 j channels, temporary install side skins. plan
on letting your j channel be flush with the skin edge. then trim a tab on the
channel , make sure the bulheads are vertical, plumb, then drill to the
bulkheads, dimple both channel and bulkhead. i think this will help you, as
there is no location on the print for these 2 j channels.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
6a
tipper
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Adel clamps-Tip O' the day |
A variation on a theme...I use safety wire to hold the clamp closed.. with a
small phillips jammed in the adel's holes. I also use needle-nose vise grips or
surgical locking forceps to hold the adel together prior to sfetying closed. The
safety wire is cliped and pulled out once the screw is in place. Quick & easy..
owens(at)aerovironment.com on 05/06/2000 04:22:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Adel clamps-Tip O' the day
Today's Tip O' the day:
Here's a neat tool to hold "adel" or cushion clamps while your trying to thread
on a washer and nut.
1. Take an old hacksaw blade and cut it down to about 4" long.
2. Grind off the teeth.
3. Grind a "V" in the end, about 1/4" wide by 1" long.
4. Slightly sharpen the "V" so it will engage a #10 screw's thread.
Now you put the clamp around the thing your holding, compress the clamp, insert
a screw, then slide the tool up to the thread.
The tool will keep the clamp from moving and hold the screw in place while you
thread a washer and nut on to the screw.
My father developed this technique back when he worked on the Lockheed Electra
and passed it on to me where it worked well on my RV-6.
Also, the Aeroelectric Connection web site (http://www.aeroelectric.com/) also
has or had (I couldn't access right now, so I'm not sure if it's still there) a
page that shows you everything you wanted to know about adel clamps but were
afraid to ask.
Hopes this helps,
Laird RV-6 22923
SoCal (final assy)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vision - not RV related |
Good RV related post. Keep it in. Otherwise use your delete key
plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net on 05/07/2000 08:51:26 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision - not RV related
AGAIN- at the risk ofbecoming a Persona-non-Grata-- people, even though
you feel this subject might be informative-it is NOT RV related. Lots of
us subscribe to more than one list. We must keep the bandwidth to a
minimum.
>
> If you check the numbers Hal you will find that the chances of having your
> vision get worse as a result the Lasik procedure are much less than having a
> general aviation accident. If a person qualifies for the procedure ... do
> it. If you are not a good candidate for the Lasik method be aware that the
> alternative (PRK) has a longer recovery time and therefore is more prone to
> complications.
>
>do not arhive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Concerning STC of Sensenich prop |
True, but I beleive you need a data plate on the engine ( see last weeks posts).
A O-320-MISSING-DATA-PLATE makes it a experimental engine in the FAA's
eyes.....
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net on 05/07/2000 01:29:48 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Concerning STC of Sensenich prop
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> > Bernie Kerr
> >
> >My 25 hour flyoff is a 50 mile radius around Okeechobee. If you live in
> that
> >radius, you might expect me to drop in on you. I hope to fly some
> meaningful
> >test , but have also been known to participate in some serious hangar
> flying.
>
> > Aircraft Description
> > _______________________
> >
> > RV6A N60WM 160 HP factory new lycoming Sensenich fixed pitch metal
> prop
>
> Congratulations on another first flight!!
>
> I noticed you said your fly-off time was 25 hours, even though the
> engine/prop combo is not found on a certified plane, unless I'm mistaken.
> Do I not understand the difference between 25 and 40 hour test times?
The 70CM series propeller is Type Certified for use on the Lycoming
O-320 series engines, per the Sensenich web site:
http://www.sensenich.com/new/70cmprop.htm
This allows a 25 hour fly-off for this engine/prop combination.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Sensenich prop, test phase completed in 25 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
What are you using for a cleaner ? a scrubber ?.... Formula 409 will do this as
well as some other cleaners. Steel wool instead of 3-M nylon scrubbies. I know
this is simple obvious stuff but this is the first time I've read of this.......
Keep us posted...
p.s.winter@net-tech.com.au on 05/07/2000 02:03:04 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Corrossion on everything.
> Hi Rvators,
I am wondering if anybody else has had the problem with corrosion along the
edges
of all their skins and ribs etc.....It usually is in areas of about 6 inches
long
and about half an inch long.
Vans has already replaced my spar due to corrosion.......just wondering...
Peter.
wings almost finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
I fitted mine on the loaded on the ground as Brian did. I felt like it was
a good compromise between no load and landing load. Also, these are flat,
rigid steel leaf-type gear legs attached to the fuselage structure. If they
sweep when you land - you got big problems!!
Bryan Jones
-8 ready for inspection
Pearland, TX
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Peterson [mailto:alexpeterson(at)usjet.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings
> Mark,
>
> Jacking the plane off the ground is NOT, in my opinion, necessary. I
> installed the wheel pants with the full weight of the airplane on the
gear.
> This way, the pants can be fitted for best alignment with the tires AND
the
> ground.
>
> Worked for me and Pat Kirkpatrick's RV6A.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 89 hrs.
I suppose with an -8 there is no twist of the gear between loaded and
unloaded, since they don't appear to be swept. However, on my 6A, I
aligned the leg fairings with no weight on the gear per the manual. After
they were done, I was amazed at how much they twist when the load is again
applied. Don't know how much speed/trim this translates to, but I'd guess
the trailing edge of the fairing is about 1/4" out of trim when the weight
is on the legs.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 canopy rails |
> Those canopy rails seem to run up onto the roll bar mounting brackets
about
> half an inch and then get chopped off square. Seems downright ugly. Is
> there a prescribed or builder invented method to dress up this situation,
and
> if so, is it a thing to do before mounting the rails?
> Thanks in advance.
> Dennis Clay
> #89473
Dennis,
Once you mount your canopy frame you will find that in it's fwd closed
position it forms a nice "L" where the frame and roller meet the fwd end of
the rail. Personally, I don't have any problem with the aesthetics. You
could extend it forward or angle it or whatever you please, but don't make
it any shorter or the canopy frame won't have anywhere to rest. The canopy
rails also can be taken off at any time quite easily, so different cosmetic
treatments can be tried. Mine are anodized satin black and can be seen on
the Interior page of my web site noted below.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, plenum/baffling
www.pacifier.com/~randyl
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
In a message dated 5/6/2000 7:30:17 AM Central Daylight Time,
luckymacy(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< In the end, I ended up doing what most people STILL do even after the 8
has
been out for a while - buy a 6. I asked Vans for sales figures a few weeks
ago and I recall the 6s are outselling the 8 by at least two to one. It's
just "safer", more "sociable", and better resale (more desired based upon
initial sales). There's a few good reasons why the 6QB are back ordered for
months while at the same time the 8QBs have been in stock.
I also think alot of the 8 prospective builders buy rockets to. I know that
I almost bought and 8 and then I ment Mark Fredricks and well now I own a F1
Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trouble linking to URLs |
>
>Hello, Doug:
>
>I intended no harm to either Lectric Bob or Andy. Andy's Bookstore is
>definitely one of the best resources available. Both Bob and Andy give a
>lot of service to the List. Advice freely given, no bias against
>competitors, unlimited help, great intrgrity. It doesn't get any better.
>Newbies should learn (ask) who the great resources are. I think that Bob is
>too nice a guy to jump all over the web developer/provider who is hurting
>his business. I tried to buy from Bob because he is the author as well as
>being so helpful. Perhaps he gets to keep more of the profit when he sells
>direct???
Didn't plug into all of this thread . . . my website host was hiccuping
since Thursday . . . problem is that it locked me out during some updates
to my scrip files and left some permissions hosed. I'm just now getting
some loose ends gathered up and I think the site will be back to normal
this evening. We'll have DSL available for our neighborhood in a few
months . . . I am seriously considering the installation of UNIX machine
here in my office and taking total command and control of my website
software AND hardware . . . I've had 4 outages of one kind or another
with the present provider since Nov.
Was someone having trouble with accessing the site or getting bad
links from the site? I do all of my own webcrafting and appreciate
heads-up notes from folk who encounter bad links . . . we can usually
fix these things minutes after getting the note. Access to the
site has been dicey for the past several days. Anyone who placed an
order or seminar reservation since Thursday should e-mail me to confirm
receipt here.
The letter shop tells me that R8 -> R9 updates are mailing this
week . . . we're popping for 1st class mail this time. Bulk
rates lost too many pieces last year.
I think the backlog of new R9 orders is now worked down to less
than 1 week old . . . anyone with a book on order longer that
hasn't received it should drop me a note too.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Concerning STC of Sensenich prop |
In a message dated 5/8/00 10:46:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< True, but I beleive you need a data plate on the engine ( see last weeks
posts).
A O-320-MISSING-DATA-PLATE makes it a experimental engine in the FAA's
eyes... >>
There is a data plate on the engine.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | O-320-E2A Backfiring |
During the first run lasting a minute or two, the engine would backfire once
almost each time the throttle was reduced and once or twice with no throttle
change. The engine's freshly overhauled with a Marvel-Schebler MA-4SPA Carb
and S-20 Bendix mags. Power seemed good and the throttle response was crisp
with no roughness at any time. Timing checked out at about 26 or 27 degrees
after the test run, nameplate is 25-degrees BTDC. Fuel is 100 LL. When run
the temp was about 85-F and about 70-percent rel humidity. Spark plugs are
used but unburned, with clean electrodes and good gaps. Spark plug harness
is new. Mags are overhauled and seem to be performing well (easy to start).
One mag is standard and one has an impulse coupling. Aux fuel pump was
running and the fuel pressure at the carb was 4 to 5-psi during the run.
The idle bleed screw was at about 1.5 turns open. The engine main mixture
was full rich. The prop was full RPM.
I don't want to run the engine too much before test flight since it's newly
overhauled (cylinder glazing) but don't really care to test fly with an
engine that's backfiring. All my expert helpers say late timing, but it
didn't measure that way using my electronic mag timing tool.
Please help...
Thanks
Bryan Jones
-8, ready for inspection
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
I just want to touch this real quick...
I got a good deal on the Whelen A600 units, but with no power supply(s)...
I found a place that sells a single power supply for $140... here is what
they sent me via e-mail:
Yes, our strobe drivers will operate any of the other strobe bulbs. Our
Smart Double Dual Magnum Diver box operates on 10 to 90 Volts AC or DC.
With
a current draw of 2 Amps @ 12 volts and 300 ma @ 90 volts. The flash is in
a
double wink pattern and it alternates back and forth between the two heads.
Flash energy is about 14 Joules.
http://www.kestrobes.com/page1/double12.htm
I plan on using this power supply with my A600's, unless someone can tell me
why I shouldn't...
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
In a message dated 5/7/00 11:35:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
p.s.winter@net-tech.com.au writes:
<< wondering if anybody else has had the problem with corrosion along the
edges
of all their skins and ribs et >>
I started my empennage in late 1994 and the wings in 1995. Working on the
finish kit now and have never seen any signs of corrosion on any parts.
Harry Crosby
-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
In a message dated 5/8/00 7:31:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Formula 409 will do this as well as some other cleaners >>
Follow up to my previous: I have always used Simple Green and Scotch Brite
pads (green ones) to clean before priming. No signs of corrosion.
Harry Crosby
-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
You might want to check and make sure you don't have an exaust and or a
intake manifold leak, this can cause an engine to backfire.. This normally
happen's when the throddle is retarded..
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
Aren't some mounts manf. with a offset welded in ? If so your method would
follow the thrust line and not the "frame" line of the aircraft.
randallh(at)home.com on 05/07/2000 12:47:12 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings
> The instruction manual advises to take the weight off of the airframe so
> that the wheels will be in proper trail simulating the pants position in
> flight.
>
> What is the best way, & safe way to lift the aircraft, wings are not
> installed yet.
The BEST way (IMHO) is to fit/align the wheel pants and gear leg fairings
with the engine mount off the plane. Lay the mount flat on the bench and
level it, and use plumb-bobs to align the pants and gear leg fairings
perfectly "in-trail". Avoids having to level the plane and measure and
string a bunch of lines. Sounds like you probably are past the point of
being able to do this however....
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> Well guys, I finally did it, sent off for the RV-6A Tail kit today.
Congratulations! Now sell everything you own and move into something
with a three-car garage - then park the cars outside.
> Now I
> am looking for advice on the following: Tools, where to get them and
> what I need.
Avery's tool kits A and B + pneumatic squeezer (Fred Kunkle - check
archives) to start with. That'll get you into the wings.
> Building, should I get the Orndoff videos or just learn as I go?
Get the videos. Also a combo TV/VCR that you can put in the shop
(keeps aluminum filings and drilling mess out of the carpet as you
tromp back and forth from shop to living room).
> Any
> other peritenant advice some of you expereinced builders have for a
> newbie.
If you haven't done any metal work, go do the Orndorf builder's class
(or any reasonable facsimile near you). Good information, but the real
value is in the confidence that "I can do this".
>
> Micah Froese
All the above is the opinion of one previously inexperienced builder
and a very visual learner.
YMMV!
Have fun!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
In regards to tools, check out brown aviation tools. They had the best
prices by far and they recieved the majority of my order. I also ordered
from cleaveland and then avery.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pickup tube... |
Bill,
Vibrations should not affect your pickup tube. It should be installed to
be about 1/16" off the bottom skin and not touching it. It should also be
off the end rib. Do not proseal it to the bottom skin. This will not allow
you to remove the inspection plate in the end rib. Please call (817)
439-3280 if you have questions or need help.
George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Everbody Checkout Name Badge Sample for the List |
Listers
I have a sample badge posted on the WEB thanks to Paul Besing, I had a few
people give me some ideas and this is what I came up with. Some wanted
different planes but the RV6 won out because of the way the drawing was
turned, it fit the look I was trying to get. I have cleaned the logo up
little bit more since the picture was taken but you can get a general idea.
The wording around the logo can be changed but the logo has to stay. The rest
of the wording can be changed or more added. It takes about 5 min to engrave
like it is because of the logo, but I think it looks great. The color of this
badge is light gray with a blue core or lettering. Color can be voted on as
well, but we need to hurry because of the time frame. I'm ready when you are.
Once the OK is given and we vote on color. I will need everbody that's going
to want one to fax me your infomation and a return address to ship it to.
Again these are free to Listers only if one is need for a spouse they are
$7.50 each let me know as soon as you can.
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/name.htm
Information Needed:
Name:
Email Name:
City, State:
Type Aircraft Building:
Thanks
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
Aviation Consumer has a thumbs-up for Simple Green around airplanes. Heck,
between the Simple Green and the Marvel Mistery Oil... I have the best smelling
hanger in all of New Jersey.
HCRV6(at)aol.com on 05/08/2000 01:19:33 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Corrossion on everything.
In a message dated 5/8/00 7:31:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Formula 409 will do this as well as some other cleaners >>
Follow up to my previous: I have always used Simple Green and Scotch Brite
pads (green ones) to clean before priming. No signs of corrosion.
Harry Crosby
-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
>
><bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
>During the first run lasting a minute or two, the engine would backfire
>once
>almost each time the throttle was reduced and once or twice with no
>throttle
>change. The engine's freshly overhauled with a Marvel-Schebler MA-4SPA
>Carb
>and S-20 Bendix mags. Power seemed good and the throttle response was
>crisp
>with no roughness at any time. Timing checked out at about 26 or 27
>degrees
>after the test run, nameplate is 25-degrees BTDC. Fuel is 100 LL. When
>run
>the temp was about 85-F and about 70-percent rel humidity. Spark plugs are
>used but unburned, with clean electrodes and good gaps. Spark plug harness
>is new. Mags are overhauled and seem to be performing well (easy to
>start).
>One mag is standard and one has an impulse coupling. Aux fuel pump was
>running and the fuel pressure at the carb was 4 to 5-psi during the run.
>The idle bleed screw was at about 1.5 turns open. The engine main mixture
>was full rich. The prop was full RPM.
>
>I don't want to run the engine too much before test flight since it's newly
>overhauled (cylinder glazing) but don't really care to test fly with an
>engine that's backfiring. All my expert helpers say late timing, but it
>didn't measure that way using my electronic mag timing tool.
>
>Please help...
>
>Thanks
>
>Bryan Jones
>-8, ready for inspection
>Pearland, Texas
Bryan,
A friend's unlimited acro machine with an IO-540 does this at startup and
idle quite a bit. He's an A&P/IA with loads of engine experience and it
doesn't seem to bother him a bit. The plane flies great with perfect engine
reliability over the past three years it has been flying. My O-360 in the
RV8 does this only when I pull the power off too quickly on a descent. With
smooth power changes, it doesn't do it at all, or at least from what I can
hear inside the plane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
Try vary-ing the mixture while you re-create the backfire. Is it more more or
less pronounced when rich vs. lean ? This will lend support to a induction leak.
Does it do it on one mag vs. the other mag vs. both. (In this case checking for
cross fire or mis run of plug lead)
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/8/2000 1:03:37 PM Central Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<<
Don't scrimp on tools. Buy from Cleavland or Avery- its cheaper in the long
run.
If you buy crap (not knowing anybeter) and in a few weeks or after a visit
to
another builders house, discover you got crap, you got to go buy from
Cleavland
or Avery and loose the money it the cheaper tools. Another nice thing about
these guys, they built RV's in a prior life and helped me on more than one
occasion on tool/RV advice...... >>
Hmm, I compared the brown tools and the cleaveland and avery. Same brand
name products and Brown tools is cheaper. Avery is very expensive, the only
thing i would buy from there is their squezer. Give brown a call, I dont
think you will be disappointed.
http://www.browntool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
I would definitely recommend the Orndorff videos. I just completed the
empennage and can tell you that I would have still been working on my first
part had it not been for the videos. My wing kit arrives tomorrow and I've
already watched the wing video 3 times. IMHO these videos are indispensable
for a first time builder with very little blueprint reading experience (like
me).
As for tools, I went with Avery Avery
Tools for most of mine. They have some RV builder starter sets that
are real decent for a decent price. I strongly recommend you buy the swivel
flush rivet set. I made some dings in my horizontal Stab with the other
rivet set I had and since buying the Swivel Set, not one slip up or ding.
Good luck and welcome to the group.
Eric Newton, Long Beach, MS
RV-6A (Wings) Eric's
RV-6A Construction Page
N57ME (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
A local 6A driver had a similar backfire problem which was traced to a leak in
the
induction system that caused one cylinder to run lean. Check all induction hoses
to
make sure there tight and also at the flange where the tube meets the cylinder
head.
Check to make sure the Carb is bolted on tight also.
Gary Zilik
6A N99PZ 45.3 hr.
"Jones, Bryan D." wrote:
>
> During the first run lasting a minute or two, the engine would backfire once
> almost each time the throttle was reduced and once or twice with no throttle
> change. The engine's freshly overhauled with a Marvel-Schebler MA-4SPA Carb
> and S-20 Bendix mags. Power seemed good and the throttle response was crisp
> with no roughness at any time. Timing checked out at about 26 or 27 degrees
> after the test run, nameplate is 25-degrees BTDC. Fuel is 100 LL. When run
> the temp was about 85-F and about 70-percent rel humidity. Spark plugs are
> used but unburned, with clean electrodes and good gaps. Spark plug harness
> is new. Mags are overhauled and seem to be performing well (easy to start).
> One mag is standard and one has an impulse coupling. Aux fuel pump was
> running and the fuel pressure at the carb was 4 to 5-psi during the run.
> The idle bleed screw was at about 1.5 turns open. The engine main mixture
> was full rich. The prop was full RPM.
>
> I don't want to run the engine too much before test flight since it's newly
> overhauled (cylinder glazing) but don't really care to test fly with an
> engine that's backfiring. All my expert helpers say late timing, but it
> didn't measure that way using my electronic mag timing tool.
>
> Please help...
>
> Thanks
>
> Bryan Jones
> -8, ready for inspection
> Pearland, Texas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
I just pulled the plastic off of my E-605 (Inboard Left Elevator Rib).
It has a small crack at one of the corners of the base where it is to be
attached to the E602PP Spar.
Don't know whether I've caused the crack or not - however, I'm sending it to
Van's for their opinion (and ordering a new one at the same time).
Just letting folks know about this...If I didn't cause this - we all should
inspect our parts (always/anyway) to make sure we're not putting a stress
catching part on our planes.
Has anyone else experienced any problems with any of their kit's parts
quality - or is this one of those $4!| happens things???
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
> Well guys, I finally did it, sent off for the RV-6A Tail kit today. Now I am
> looking for advice on the following: Tools, where to get them and what I
> need. Building, should I get the Orndoff videos or just learn as I go? Any
> other peritenant advice some of you expereinced builders have for a newbie.
Congratulations Micah. Welcome to the club.
What I quickly learned when I began with my 6A is that having good tools really
matters and are well worth the extra few dollars. Get your tools from either
Avery or Cleaveland. Besides having the quality you want, both know RVs well
and can give honest advice on what you need.
About the Orndorff videos; I built my RV without them, but then I had the
incredible good fortune of having one of these master builder types, who
happened to also be building a 6A, move in right next door to me around when I
was starting my wings. It really helps a lot to be able to see what the plans
are telling you to do. If you've got another RV to easily look at whenever you
need, then you probably don't need the tapes. Otherwise they might help. If you
still have doubts, just get the empennage tape. If it helps you can get the
rest as you need them.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
RV-6A N-5060 flying
RV-X (waiting to do it again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/8/00 1:57:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Has anyone else experienced any problems with any of their kit's parts
quality - or is this one of those $4!| happens things??? >>
My parts have all been perfect - that is until I got my hands on them. After
that, I had to re-order a few during the learning curve (which never seams to
end). I love it!!!
Eric Newton, Long Beach, MS
RV-6A (Wings) Eric's
RV-6A Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
. "I
used Van's fiberglass mount to attach my Whelen's to the wingtips with the
fixture is low enough that no part of it can be seen from the cockpit."
????????????????
I am currently working on the wings on an -8A and have the wing tips that
came with the kit. I am unfamiliar with the fiberglass mount that you
referred to. Can you enlighten me a little bit please?
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Hall [SMTP:robjhall(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be?
snip
> Any strobe on an RV is going to be much closer to the cockpit than the
> ones on an MD-80. In anything other than day VFR, you should be aware of
> the disorientation that can be caused by very bright strobes or forward
> shining anti collision beacons.
snip
IMHO If the wing tip strobes are mounted low enough to be out of the direct
vision of the pilot, it is not a problem VFR. I did not notice any
distraction when I flew my RV-6 at night for the first time last month. I
used Van's fiberglass mount to attach my Whelen's to the wingtips with the
fixture is low enough that no part of it can be seen from the cockpit. I
did notice a soft glow shining through the unpainted wingtips from the
white
nav light.
No flame intended, just my experience FWIW
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
I flew VFR with following from Orlando to Maimi and back last week in a spam
can (throttle to the firewall of course) and the controllers called out so
many 1200 squawkers that I was rather irritated by it. I'm not sure what
area of the country you fly in, but in florida with several class bravo's
within spitting distance of each other...flight following is not a joke.
Bill
-4 wings
> BTW, other posters relied on
> FAA facilities for seperation......that is a big joke considering the FAA
> controllers almost always turn off 1200 swalks........
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
In a message dated 5/8/00 4:51:48 PM Central Daylight Time,
jbabell(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I'm building a -6A; it's hard to get your hand on her thigh in the back
seat.
>>
Jack, now,now......what kind of flight rules are you flying under? IFR I feel
r....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
I can also vouch for Brown Tool. They are right there with Avery and
Cleaveland with quality tools at a competitive price.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: <CW9371(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New builder
>
> In a message dated 5/8/2000 1:03:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
pcondon(at)csc.com
> writes:
>
> <<
> Don't scrimp on tools. Buy from Cleavland or Avery- its cheaper in the
long
> run.
> If you buy crap (not knowing anybeter) and in a few weeks or after a
visit
> to
> another builders house, discover you got crap, you got to go buy from
> Cleavland
> or Avery and loose the money it the cheaper tools. Another nice thing
about
> these guys, they built RV's in a prior life and helped me on more than
one
> occasion on tool/RV advice...... >>
>
> Hmm, I compared the brown tools and the cleaveland and avery. Same brand
> name products and Brown tools is cheaper. Avery is very expensive, the
only
> thing i would buy from there is their squezer. Give brown a call, I dont
> think you will be disappointed.
> http://www.browntool.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Everbody Checkout Name Badge Sample for the List |
Steve,
Badges look super! Please count me in. Thanks.
Jerry Calvert
rv6bldr(at)home.com
Edmond, Ok
RV-6
> Information Needed:
> Name:
> Email Name:
> City, State:
> Type Aircraft Building:
>
> Thanks
> Steve Davis
> The Panel Pilot
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Still undecided |
>
>The -4 has certainly been forgotten by Van's. They did everything they
>could to talk me out of building one and into building the -8. I finally
>had to say I was not impressed with the numbers on the -8 yet, so was going
>with the proven design. One thing I can say after building the empennage is
>the -4 plans and especially the manual ---- SUCK!!
>
>As a contractor, if I received a set of plans this bad from an architect, I
>would halt the project and send the subcontractors home. But, on the other
>hand I'm building an airplane.....just wish I didn't have to plan it too.
>
>Bill
>-4 wings
Well, you cant blame them for wanting to discourage new -4 builders at
this point. I'd guess that there are very few folks ordering -4s these
days. Must be a major hassle for them to have to support the few of us that
are still building that older design. I'm surprised (and glad) that they
continue to offer the -4 kit at all.
I gotta ask what numbers your talking about on the -8 that didnt impress.
From what Ive seen the performance numbers are pretty close. And when you
onsider how little performance you trade for the extra space available and
the more refined kit the -8 looks like a pretty good choice. Now if you
want to discuss something really subjective like looks then I'd agree that
the -4 is a better choice (just my opinion guys, dont flame me for that).
The complaints about plans/manual for the -4 have been made repeatedly
here. Again it would be hard to justify a lot of rework in the
documentation when so few kits for the -4 are being ordered these days. I
found the plans to be just fine (I guess I'm too ignorant to know how bad
they are). I agree that the manual is lacking but plenty of people before
us built this airplane with the same (or worse) documentation. Consider the
era in which this airplane was designed and kitted; at the time it was one
of the best and most complete kits on the market. If you really wanted a
more modern kit with more prefab and better docs you probably should have
taken Vans advice and bought the -8.
Mike Wills
RV-4 airframe done, engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Name Badge update.......( Please Read!!!!) |
Listers
I have Received 25 orders for name badges but most do not care about color
only a few have mentioned it, I will pick the color it's White with Blue
Lettering they all will have a pin back. Some have offered to send a little
somthing to help with the costs, I thank you for that. The problem i'm going
to have is packing and shipping them, so I came up with this idea Send me a
self addressed envlope with two .33 cent stamps on it that way I do not spend
all my time putting all of the address' in my UPS manifest, and it will be a
check point for me to be sure I do not miss any e-mails and leave anybody
out. I hope this is not a problem but it will take more time shipping than
making them. I will have these that I got today done friday and ready to ship
so send me those envlopes. Some wanted to buy a second badge so you can send
it as well $7.50 to the address below.
Steve Davis
P.O. Box 510
Memphis, Tennessee 38101
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
i have only ordered from avery. and as another builder has said, they have
built rv's and have very nice and helped me with some beginner questions, had
one prob with a buck ing bar and they sent me new, no questions asked and
said don't bother sending back original i highly recommend. bob paulovichn
arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
Avery is a great company from what i have heard. However in comparing prices
between Brown Avery and cleaveland on the same parts with the same
manufacters they were the highest pricest. I was told to get the avery
squeezer though.
Buy stuff from brown and you will be happy, but if not sure, get the name
brand stuff from brown and pay avery or cleaveland the extra.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
as I have stated before we do not wash these airplanes
we wipe them down. The reason is this, when you wash
an aircraft you always leave trace amounts of water
and chemical in the seams of the aluminum and thus you
have set up the catylytic process for corrosion to
begin i.e. just like a battery anode and cathode
Glenn
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> Aviation Consumer has a thumbs-up for Simple Green
> around airplanes. Heck,
> between the Simple Green and the Marvel Mistery
> Oil... I have the best smelling
> hanger in all of New Jersey.
>
>
> HCRV6(at)aol.com on 05/08/2000 01:19:33 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Corrossion on everything.
>
>
>
> In a message dated 5/8/00 7:31:23 AM Pacific
> Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
> writes:
>
> << Formula 409 will do this as well as some other
> cleaners >>
>
>
> Follow up to my previous: I have always used
> Simple Green and Scotch Brite
> pads (green ones) to clean before priming. No signs
> of corrosion.
>
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trouble linking to URLs and other non-RV matters |
I've had several folk ask 'bout our website and John Caldwell's.
John and I had been collaborating on a search for business
friendly shopping cart software . . spoke with him last about
6 weeks ago. His web pages seem to have disappeared from AOL
which can mean a variety of things . . . like many of you I
got the answering machine when I called.
Hope this all turns out to be a no-sweat situation . . . if anyone
hears from John before I do, I'd like to know that things are
okay with him. I'll post a note here when I have news too.
Our website's e-mail handler is futzed and won't forward orders
and seminar registration forms . . . . . I'm learning more
about cgi script files than I ever wanted to know. I'll see if I
can't get it sorted out yet this evening. Good news is
that Dee is out of school for the summer and will be chained to
the 'Connection workbench to build up our stock of manufacturered
goodies and help me stay a bit tighter on orders.
I'll be setting down with Raytheon this summer to work out an
adjustment to my relationship with them . . . ranging from selective
consulting to total disconnect. Also, we've got a meeting
scheduled with a firm in Ft. Worth that wants to be our
development and manufacturing arm for a long list of new
products I've been working on. We'll be sitting down to talk
with them evenings of our weekend seminar in George and Becky's
hangar first weekend in June.
I have a proposal for the homebuilt aircraft guys to consider.
While we still bow to the regulatory breezes of "experimental"
aircraft, I'll suggest that by the time several thousands of any
particular design is flying, it's a long way from experimental.
Sitting in a meeting the other day an inspirational thought passed
by suggesting the phrase "owner built and maintained" aircraft
(OBAM perhaps?).
If our industry were to adopt some new terminology by which we
refer to ourselves, I think it would help relieve some of the
public mis-perceptions of what our craft is all about. As
an engineer, I LOVE the term "experimental" for it reflects the
exploratory nature of a rapidly maturing art and science. But to
our next door neighbors, the word is not so assuring.
Working in accident investigation I learned from a very good
teacher to replace words like "impact" with "contact",
"spin" with "rotation", "crushed" with "deformed",
"crash" with "collision", etc.
With some thought its possible to adjust a lexicon of "hard"
words with equally meaningful "soft" ones that can go a long
way to promoting public (and bureaucratic) acceptance of
our existance. Would not a phrase like OBAM be less off-putting
to the un-initiated observers of our craft?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
>
> A local 6A driver had a similar backfire problem which was traced to a
leak in the
> induction system that caused one cylinder to run lean. Check all induction
hoses to
> make sure there tight and also at the flange where the tube meets the
cylinder head.
> Check to make sure the Carb is bolted on tight also.
>
> Gary Zilik
> 6A N99PZ 45.3 hr.
You might also check that all the little plugs near the top of the cylinder
assemblies are present and tight. A hangar mate's first flight was aborted
when one of them vibrated loose causing the engine run very roughly when
power was reduced. The engine ran more or less ok until the throttle was
pulled back.
Bob Hall,
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
> I am currently working on the wings on an -8A and have the wing tips that
> came with the kit. I am unfamiliar with the fiberglass mount that you
> referred to. Can you enlighten me a little bit please?
Nav Light Extensions on p.37 of Van's Accessories Catalog 2000. They are a
little pricey but were worth it to me considering my lack of fiberglass
experience.
Bob Hall.
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Greetings:
This is a question for the engine gurus amongst us. I have an opportunity
to purchase an engine and I am not sure if it is applicable to the RV6A that
I am building.
The engine is a HO-360-E1AD of 180 hp with a solid core crank....therefore
fixed pitch. Yes, the "H" indicates that it is a Horizontal Helicopter
engine. It is apparently fuel injected per information from the seller.
The history of this engine is an over-rev at initial run-ups after
installation in a new helicopter. The engine will be completely overhauled
with all the appropriate new parts. As of now, no firm price has been
mentioned, but if it is attractive, I need to know if I should make a move
on it.
My question is if this is an engine that will fit in a 6A. As there is no
carb, I assume that this is not a factor regarding the nosewheel strut. Any
red flags about this engine? I am confident that it will be a sound engine
after OH, so that is not a concern. I just don't want to be faced with a
multitude of mods to "make" it work.
As always, Thanks in advance folks
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Peshtigo, WI
Sealing second tank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M.Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
Peter,
Are you sure this is corrosion you see? A white flaky looking
residue is often left behind, near the edges of parts, after
removal of the protective plastic sheeting. It is easily
removed with solvents like lacquer thinner. I thought this was
corrosion when I first saw it on my parts.
Mike Mckenna (RV-8 wings)
> > I am wondering if anybody else has had the problem with corrosion along the
> > edges
> > of all their skins and ribs etc.....It usually is in areas of about 6 inches
> > long
> > and about half an inch long.
> >
> > Vans has already replaced my spar due to corrosion.......just wondering...
> >
> > Peter.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
WHAT?! Steel wool on aluminum? Doesn't that invite dissimilar metals
type of corrosion (as microscopic bits of steel may be left imbedded in
the aluminum)???
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> What are you using for a cleaner ? a scrubber ?.... Formula 409 will do this
as
> well as some other cleaners. Steel wool instead of 3-M nylon scrubbies. I know
> this is simple obvious stuff but this is the first time I've read of this.......
> Keep us posted...
>
> p.s.winter@net-tech.com.au on 05/07/2000 02:03:04 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RV-List: Corrossion on everything.
>
>
> > Hi Rvators,
>
> I am wondering if anybody else has had the problem with corrosion along the
> edges
> of all their skins and ribs etc.....It usually is in areas of about 6 inches
> long
> and about half an inch long.
>
> Vans has already replaced my spar due to corrosion.......just wondering...
>
> Peter.
>
> wings almost finished.
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Attaching FAB Plate to Carb |
I've had the FAB (filtered air box) temporarily attached to the carb with
generic nuts (my carb has studs extending from the bottom). Now I'm
wondering what hardware I should use for final installation of the plate to
the bottom of the carb. To me, it seems that the best solution is to use
high temperature lock nuts, and maybe a little lock-tite.
The big downside IF the attaching hardware comes loose is that it gets sucked
directly into the engine... On the good/bad scale, that would be bad.
Other ideas include:
Safey wired nuts (IF this will fit).
A conventional jam nut setup.
I'm going with the hi temp lock nuts unless there's a better solution. Any
thoughts?
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
>
> WHAT?! Steel wool on aluminum? Doesn't that invite dissimilar metals
> type of corrosion (as microscopic bits of steel may be left imbedded
> in
> the aluminum)???
>
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > What are you using for a cleaner ? a scrubber ?.... Formula 409
> will do this as
> > well as some other cleaners. Steel wool instead of 3-M nylon
> scrubbies. I know
> > this is simple obvious stuff but this is the first time I've read
> of this.......
Ahhh... the written word...
Scott, I think if you read the reply again you'll see that in context
he is saying that steel wool will cause the corrosion effect if used
instead of the 3M scotch brite pads.
You're right - steel wool is _not_ the cleaning tool of choice.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching FAB Plate to Carb |
Included with the FAB is 4 little clips that keep the nuts on. You can use
regular AN nuts. I don't recall the number, but it is a 1/4-20 thread if I
recall correctly.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Attaching FAB Plate to Carb
>
>
> I've had the FAB (filtered air box) temporarily attached to the carb with
> generic nuts (my carb has studs extending from the bottom). Now I'm
> wondering what hardware I should use for final installation of the plate
to
> the bottom of the carb. To me, it seems that the best solution is to use
> high temperature lock nuts, and maybe a little lock-tite.
>
> The big downside IF the attaching hardware comes loose is that it gets
sucked
> directly into the engine... On the good/bad scale, that would be bad.
>
> Other ideas include:
>
> Safey wired nuts (IF this will fit).
> A conventional jam nut setup.
>
> I'm going with the hi temp lock nuts unless there's a better solution.
Any
> thoughts?
>
> KB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Experimental OBAM |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 5/8/00 18:57, Robert L. Nuckolls, III at nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com wrote:
> I have a proposal for the homebuilt aircraft guys to consider.
> While we still bow to the regulatory breezes of "experimental"
> aircraft, I'll suggest that by the time several thousands of any
> particular design is flying, it's a long way from experimental.
> Sitting in a meeting the other day an inspirational thought passed
> by suggesting the phrase "owner built and maintained" aircraft
> (OBAM perhaps?).
>
> If our industry were to adopt some new terminology by which we
> refer to ourselves, I think it would help relieve some of the
> public mis-perceptions of what our craft is all about. As
> an engineer, I LOVE the term "experimental" for it reflects the
> exploratory nature of a rapidly maturing art and science. But to
> our next door neighbors, the word is not so assuring.
>
> Working in accident investigation I learned from a very good
> teacher to replace words like "impact" with "contact",
> "spin" with "rotation", "crushed" with "deformed",
> "crash" with "collision", etc.
>
> With some thought its possible to adjust a lexicon of "hard"
> words with equally meaningful "soft" ones that can go a long
> way to promoting public (and bureaucratic) acceptance of
> our existance. Would not a phrase like OBAM be less off-putting
> to the un-initiated observers of our craft?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> I share your desire to get a better handle for our planes but have never been
able to come up with anything better.
Am in agreement that experiemental is off putting. But OBAM leaves me cold.
Also it would not be totally accurate as many are not owner built and/or
maintained. I recollect that EAA went through a similar gut wrench a few
years ago and decided to stick with Experimental. Personally I think
amateur built is equally negative and home built is even more so. Keep
brainstorming and hopefully someone will come up with a catchy name.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
Sounds like leaking exhaust flange gasket sucking air and igniting raw fuel.
Just a though.
Ken 6a fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching FAB Plate to Carb |
>
How about removing the studs and using the hardware as supplied by Van's. Simple
effective solution
Gary Zilik
>
> I've had the FAB (filtered air box) temporarily attached to the carb with
> generic nuts (my carb has studs extending from the bottom). Now I'm
> wondering what hardware I should use for final installation of the plate to
> the bottom of the carb. To me, it seems that the best solution is to use
> high temperature lock nuts, and maybe a little lock-tite.
>
> The big downside IF the attaching hardware comes loose is that it gets sucked
> directly into the engine... On the good/bad scale, that would be bad.
>
> Other ideas include:
>
> Safey wired nuts (IF this will fit).
> A conventional jam nut setup.
>
> I'm going with the hi temp lock nuts unless there's a better solution. Any
> thoughts?
>
> KB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
My O/H Sigma-Tek DG crapped out after 80 hours. I sent it back to
Mid-continent instruments who had done the original overhaul. They said it
was a little out of balance and had a small amount of contamination (fine
black stuff) but nothing that would make it fail like I described, and that
it worked ok on their bench. I'm looking for ideas as to what the problem
might be.
The failure is like this: adjust it to the heading and go flying; a few
minutes later it's marched around 90 or 180 degrees. Looks like it moves at
a rate of about 1 degree in 5-10 seconds.
I have a new Sigma-Tek dry pump and Rapco regulator and filter. Each gyro
has its own inlet from, and outlet to, the filter and pump, respectively.
The suction gauge comes only off the AH. The AH seems to be working fine,
and the gauge reads in the green.
I can try the suction gauge on the DG (should have done so before I sent it
back but didn't.) Does anyone have any other ideas? Could the black stuff be
from the inside of the hoses or should I worry about the pump? How to tell
what it is for sure?
One suspicious thing is that I had adjusted the regulator not long before
the DG stopped working. But all I did was turn it up a bit so the suction
would be in the middle of the green instead of the bottom. Told
Mid-Continent about this and they didn't think it would cause a failure like
I describe.
Any ideas on what the problem might be or how to diagnose it would be
helpful.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Wheel Pants & Fairings |
> Aren't some mounts manf. with a offset welded in ? If so your method
would
> follow the thrust line and not the "frame" line of the aircraft.
The offset is at the forward, engine attach part of the mount, not the
firewall attach points, which is what you would level on the bench.
As someone else pointed out however, this doesn't apply to the -8.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: parts list download |
David & Betty Burton wrote:
> Matt used to have an Excel program available for download that listed the
contents of all the bags o' parts in the kits. I don't find it anymore, and
the archive gives the old address which doesn't work anymore. Anyone know the
location of the list now, or have one for a 6 that they can share with me?
I have it on my "Bunny's Guide to RV Building" Web site
http://members.xoom.com/frankv/bunny.htm
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Attaching FAB Plate to Carb |
I am working in this area right now too. Van's instruction sheets mention
that it is possible to install 1/2 bolts with drilled heads. I like that
idea because I recall a story in the RVAtor about the bent edge washers not
securing the bolts. The problem is that I cannot identify the correct
drilled-head bolt for that application. The bolt I need is 1/2 inch long,
with coarse threads. Anyone out there have the correct AN call-out?
Stephen Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A firewall forward stuff
-----Original Message-----
I've had the FAB (filtered air box) temporarily attached to the carb with
generic nuts (my carb has studs extending from the bottom). Now I'm
wondering what hardware I should use for final installation of the plate to
the bottom of the carb. To me, it seems that the best solution is to use
high temperature lock nuts, and maybe a little lock-tite.
The big downside IF the attaching hardware comes loose is that it gets
sucked
directly into the engine... On the good/bad scale, that would be bad.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | FAB Air box for RV-6 |
I am fitting the FAB airbox, or at least trying to. The plans say to cut it
to a length of 14 3/4 inches long. That puts it about 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch
from the intake scoop. That's OK, but I think it leaves too little room for
the rubber sealing pieces. So I think I should cut off some of the length,
but how much? I need to leave enough room on the top of the airbox for a
connection to the hot air and a door/flapper to close off the cold impact
air.
My usual method is to cut off a little at a time until I realize I got it
too short. Then I stop. This time I thought I would see what the other
builders have done. I have the new S-cowl with the honeycomb guts.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
> FAA facilities for seperation(sp)......that is a big joke considering the
FAA
> controllers almost always turn off 1200 swalks........
I doubt there's much truth to that. In the IFR flying I do I am constantly
amazed at the number of VFR squawks that get called out to me (in IMC no
less). Just think of the liability the FAA would have if they have an
aluminum shower because some yahoo turned off the 1200 squawks. Also more
importantly your squawk will show up on TCAS and that might save the life of
your passenger as well as you some day.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Melvin C. Barlow" <melbarlow(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | O-320-E2A Backfiring |
Bryan, I have the same engine on my -4. One thing to look at is the primer
lines. I had a case a couple of years back where the engine would backfire
(or "pop" through the exhaust, more likely, although it was hard to tell
from inside the aircraft). Turned out to be a cracked primer line right at
the fitting on the cylinder. I think this causes a lean cylinder, which
leads to early combustion?? Hope this helps...
On 5-9-00, Bryan D. Jones wrote:
>>During the first run lasting a minute or two, the engine would backfire
once
almost each time the throttle was reduced and once or twice with no throttle
change. The engine's freshly overhauled with a Marvel-Schebler MA-4SPA Carb
and S-20 Bendix mags. Power seemed good and the throttle response was
crisp...(snip)<<
Mel Barlow
N114RV, 670Hr., Based at IJD, CT.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Randall, I have electric, R.C.Allen. The DG work fine so far. The horizon
has traveled
to and from factory 3 times and and I just sent it back again.
I wished I would just got a cat...they know which way is up and down!
Some work forever and others don't.
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
>>Now if you want to discuss something really subjective like looks then I'd
agree that
the -4 is a better choice (just my opinion guys, dont flame me for that).
I agree... the -8 has to "grow on you" a little while before you feeling
that attraction. It's kind of like a mutt dog I had a few years back. It
didn't look quite as good as the pure-bred ones, but the numbers were better
(IQ, cost, etc...) and began to look just as good after a while! :)
Bryan Jones
-8 ready for inspection
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
Most H-360's I've seen have exrta large (diameter) intake tubes and are angle
valve, not parallel valve. The larger intake tubes on my "H" presented no
problem. Check if your potential purchase has the larger intakes and angle
valve....(angle valve cylinders are somewhat larger than parallel valve
cylinders and (maybe) a issue fitting the cowl)
jorear(at)mari.net on 05/08/2000 09:27:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Engine info
Greetings:
This is a question for the engine gurus amongst us. I have an opportunity
to purchase an engine and I am not sure if it is applicable to the RV6A that
I am building.
The engine is a HO-360-E1AD of 180 hp with a solid core crank....therefore
fixed pitch. Yes, the "H" indicates that it is a Horizontal Helicopter
engine. It is apparently fuel injected per information from the seller.
The history of this engine is an over-rev at initial run-ups after
installation in a new helicopter. The engine will be completely overhauled
with all the appropriate new parts. As of now, no firm price has been
mentioned, but if it is attractive, I need to know if I should make a move
on it.
My question is if this is an engine that will fit in a 6A. As there is no
carb, I assume that this is not a factor regarding the nosewheel strut. Any
red flags about this engine? I am confident that it will be a sound engine
after OH, so that is not a concern. I just don't want to be faced with a
multitude of mods to "make" it work.
As always, Thanks in advance folks
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Peshtigo, WI
Sealing second tank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
Reread the post......these are things NOT TO DO...... Don't use 409, Don't use
steel wool.......
acepilot(at)win.bright.net on 05/08/2000 10:27:09 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Corrossion on everything.
WHAT?! Steel wool on aluminum? Doesn't that invite dissimilar metals
type of corrosion (as microscopic bits of steel may be left imbedded in
the aluminum)???
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> What are you using for a cleaner ? a scrubber ?.... Formula 409 will do this
as
> well as some other cleaners. Steel wool instead of 3-M nylon scrubbies. I
know
> this is simple obvious stuff but this is the first time I've read of
this.......
> Keep us posted...
>
> p.s.winter@net-tech.com.au on 05/07/2000 02:03:04 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RV-List: Corrossion on everything.
>
>
> > Hi Rvators,
>
> I am wondering if anybody else has had the problem with corrosion along the
> edges
> of all their skins and ribs etc.....It usually is in areas of about 6 inches
> long
> and about half an inch long.
>
> Vans has already replaced my spar due to corrosion.......just wondering...
>
> Peter.
>
> wings almost finished.
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Corrossion on everything. |
In a message dated 5/9/00 7:55:23 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<< WHAT?! Steel wool on aluminum? Doesn't that invite dissimilar metals
type of corrosion (as microscopic bits of steel may be left imbedded in
the aluminum)??? >>
I think you mis-read his post. The way I interpreted it, he was trying to
offer possible suggestions as to how the corrosion got there. He was asking
if the lister had used steel wool instead of nylon scrubees (scotchbright).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be? |
Gary, as a pilot you don't turn off the 1200 on your x-ponder because TCAS and
ground base interrogations will ping your transponder, and if your x-ponder is
not busy from another ping, will reply to the first interrogation.. I wrote
that ENROUTE and TRACON approach controllers in some stations turn off the 1200
swalks on their radar station display consoles. The old CDC & DCC ENROUTE radar
display stations have a knob for this feature. The NEW DCCR display suits also
have this feature. Most Controllers turn off primary target replys . The
stated reason in scope clutter. Secondary reply mode is the choice for most
controllers with 1200 filtered out. Not all positions do this at the TRACON
facility however some positions do.
Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com on 05/09/2000 07:57:20 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: How bright do strobes REALLY have to be?
> FAA facilities for seperation(sp)......that is a big joke considering the
FAA
> controllers almost always turn off 1200 swalks........
I doubt there's much truth to that. In the IFR flying I do I am constantly
amazed at the number of VFR squawks that get called out to me (in IMC no
less). Just think of the liability the FAA would have if they have an
aluminum shower because some yahoo turned off the 1200 squawks. Also more
importantly your squawk will show up on TCAS and that might save the life of
your passenger as well as you some day.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
| Subject: | CFM's needed for pneumatic squeezers |
I just bought a Campbell Hausfield compressor - 6HP, Max. 120PSI, Avg. 5.8
CFM @ 90 PSI. It uses oil, has one cylinder, a belt and a cast iron 30
gallon tank.
I also bought a die grinder that 'require' 6.0 CFM and a 'fittings kit'. It
works great. I inflated every basket and soccer ball in the house and even
pumped up my sons bicycle tires, and what the heck; the air mattress while I
was at it. Here ya go kids - go out and play while dad makes airplane noises
in the workshop!
Does anyone know how many CFM's the Avery Tools pneumatic squeezer needs to
operate? I didn't see any specs on it. Hate to buy it and not being able to
power it.
Hope I didn't buy a too wimpy compressor... The next step up was 12.5 CFM
and double the price ($1200).
My wife wasn't too exited about the purchase but is quickly getting used to
it. Hopefully she'll get used to a new O-360 C/S and a wee bit of avionics
just as easily...
Thanks,
Are Barstad
RV-6
Loretto, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Experimental OBAM |
How about "Personally Manufactured Aircraft"
And if you didn't build it, "Pre-Owned PMA."
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Denis Walsh [mailto:deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 8:23 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Experimental OBAM
on 5/8/00 18:57, Robert L. Nuckolls, III at
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com wrote:
> I have a proposal for the homebuilt aircraft guys to
consider.
> While we still bow to the regulatory breezes of
"experimental"
> aircraft, I'll suggest that by the time several thousands
of any
> particular design is flying, it's a long way from
experimental.
> Sitting in a meeting the other day an inspirational
thought passed
> by suggesting the phrase "owner built and maintained"
aircraft
> (OBAM perhaps?).
>
> If our industry were to adopt some new terminology by
which we
> refer to ourselves, I think it would help relieve some of
the
> public mis-perceptions of what our craft is all about. As
> an engineer, I LOVE the term "experimental" for it
reflects the
> exploratory nature of a rapidly maturing art and science.
But to
> our next door neighbors, the word is not so assuring.
>
> Working in accident investigation I learned from a very
good
> teacher to replace words like "impact" with "contact",
> "spin" with "rotation", "crushed" with "deformed",
> "crash" with "collision", etc.
>
> With some thought its possible to adjust a lexicon of
"hard"
> words with equally meaningful "soft" ones that can go a
long
> way to promoting public (and bureaucratic) acceptance of
> our existance. Would not a phrase like OBAM be less
off-putting
> to the un-initiated observers of our craft?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> I share your desire to get a better handle for our planes
but have never been
able to come up with anything better.
Am in agreement that experiemental is off putting. But OBAM
leaves me cold.
Also it would not be totally accurate as many are not owner
built and/or
maintained. I recollect that EAA went through a similar
gut wrench a few
years ago and decided to stick with Experimental.
Personally I think
amateur built is equally negative and home built is even
more so. Keep
brainstorming and hopefully someone will come up with a
catchy name.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
<<<>>>
I have alway thought that something along the lines of "Custom Manufactured
Aircraft" would be better. Custom Aircraft Association has a nice ring to
it.
Vince in Indiana
HRII , N314VF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | CFM's needed for pneumatic squeezers |
Are,
The pneumatic squeezers use very little air. Your compressor will hardly run
at all when using it.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com
-----Original Message-----
Does anyone know how many CFM's the Avery Tools pneumatic squeezer needs to
operate? I didn't see any specs on it. Hate to buy it and not being able to
power it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CFM's needed for pneumatic squeezers |
My pneumatic squeezer can be run by the little 2HP 5 gallon hanger
compresser. When I bring the pneumatic squeezer home and run it with my big one
(like the one you mentioned) the compressor dosent even fire up. It takes a row
of 10 or 15 rivets to make the compressor turn on (meaning it lost 8 to 10 lbs
of its 120 lb capacity.. On a 50 gallon reserve. I dont think you will have a
problem other than not letting your fellow builders borrow it.
BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com on 05/09/2000 09:40:35 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: CFM's needed for pneumatic squeezers
I just bought a Campbell Hausfield compressor - 6HP, Max. 120PSI, Avg. 5.8
CFM @ 90 PSI. It uses oil, has one cylinder, a belt and a cast iron 30
gallon tank.
I also bought a die grinder that 'require' 6.0 CFM and a 'fittings kit'. It
works great. I inflated every basket and soccer ball in the house and even
pumped up my sons bicycle tires, and what the heck; the air mattress while I
was at it. Here ya go kids - go out and play while dad makes airplane noises
in the workshop!
Does anyone know how many CFM's the Avery Tools pneumatic squeezer needs to
operate? I didn't see any specs on it. Hate to buy it and not being able to
power it.
Hope I didn't buy a too wimpy compressor... The next step up was 12.5 CFM
and double the price ($1200).
My wife wasn't too exited about the purchase but is quickly getting used to
it. Hopefully she'll get used to a new O-360 C/S and a wee bit of avionics
just as easily...
Thanks,
Are Barstad
RV-6
Loretto, Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Experimental OBAM |
Personally I like JALOWDI (Just About Like Orvil and Wilber Did It).
Lets take your Ferrari to the airport and go for a ride in my JALOWDI.
Sorry, it isn't open-line Friday but I couldn't resist :-)
On Tue, 9 May 2000, Van Artsdalen, Scott wrote:
> How about "Personally Manufactured Aircraft"
> And if you didn't build it, "Pre-Owned PMA."
Steve Eberhart
mailto:newtech(at)newtech.com
THE WING FLIES! - http://www.newtech.com/nlf for info on the new, flight
tested, KRnet/UIUC airfoils. Good job KRnet, you can be proud of your
contribution to Sport Aviation. Special thanks to Dr. Ashok Gopalarathnam
and Dr. Michael Selig for some great Sport Aviation airfoils.
One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are
easier to get. --plagiarized from an unknown author
All information, in any of my aircraft related correspondence, is strictly
food for thought requiring additional, qualified, engineering analysis.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CFM's needed for pneumatic squeezers |
Hi Are,
All aircraft tools are designed to run at 90 lbs. of pressure, period. The
difference between the tools is the amount of CFM's they need. Grinders & HVLP
spray guns are at the top of the list when it comes to CFM's. A word of caution,
though. Rivet guns are a little different than most other tools. If you look at
the advertisements, some rivet guns are rated, by the manufacturer, to run
between 50 & 90 lbs. of pressure. They will not operate as designed below their
rated pressure. Other rivet guns can be turned down to as low as 30 lbs. & do a
great job. I run a CP 2x between 30-35 lbs. of pressure for the 3/32 rivets. On
my bench I ran two air lines off the same compressor & set two regulators on the
bench itself. The one on the left is set at 35 lbs. of pressure for the rivet
gun & the one on the right is set at 90 lbs. of pressure for the other tools. If
you've ever seen what a rivet gun will do to a thin skin when you "think" you're
at a lower pressure you'll understand.
If you need more information on the tools, pls. don't hesitate to contact me off
list.
Blue Skies!
"Barstad, Are" wrote:
>
> I just bought a Campbell Hausfield compressor - 6HP, Max. 120PSI, Avg. 5.8
> CFM @ 90 PSI. It uses oil, has one cylinder, a belt and a cast iron 30
> gallon tank.
>
> I also bought a die grinder that 'require' 6.0 CFM and a 'fittings kit'. It
> works great. I inflated every basket and soccer ball in the house and even
> pumped up my sons bicycle tires, and what the heck; the air mattress while I
> was at it. Here ya go kids - go out and play while dad makes airplane noises
> in the workshop!
> Does anyone know how many CFM's the Avery Tools pneumatic squeezer needs to
> operate? I didn't see any specs on it. Hate to buy it and not being able to
> power it.
>
> Hope I didn't buy a too wimpy compressor... The next step up was 12.5 CFM
> and double the price ($1200).
> My wife wasn't too exited about the purchase but is quickly getting used to
> it. Hopefully she'll get used to a new O-360 C/S and a wee bit of avionics
> just as easily...
>
> Thanks,
> Are Barstad
> RV-6
> Loretto, Ontario
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Knoll <tripod(at)oneimage.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new category |
Hi Vince and Listers,
I agree with almost everything you say with the exception of the word
manafactured. How about Custom Aircraft. It will be abbreviated as CA, not
CMA which must stand for a # of things in thsi world, including Culver
Military Academy, which is in Indiana.
There are probably even better ideas out there, so lets keep trying.
BFK
>
><<<been
>able to come up with anything better.
>
>Am in agreement that experiemental is off putting. But OBAM leaves me cold.
>Also it would not be totally accurate as many are not owner built and/or
>maintained. I recollect that EAA went through a similar gut wrench a few
>years ago and decided to stick with Experimental. Personally I think
>amateur built is equally negative and home built is even more so. Keep
>brainstorming and hopefully someone will come up with a catchy name.>>>>
>
>I have alway thought that something along the lines of "Custom Manufactured
>Aircraft" would be better. Custom Aircraft Association has a nice ring to
>it.
>
>Vince in Indiana
>HRII , N314VF reserved
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CFM's needed for pneumatic squeezers |
>
> Does anyone know how many CFM's the Avery Tools pneumatic squeezer needs to
> operate? I didn't see any specs on it. Hate to buy it and not being able to
> power it.
>
Well I think you'll need that $1200 compressor if your going to use a pneumatic
squeezer. If you have already bought the squeezer then send it to me and you
wont need the monster compressor. Drills, die grinders and sprayers are some of
the things that eat air in large amounts. Squeezers do not. I have a little 1 hp
tankless compressor that I routinely use to power pneumatic staplers, nailers
and my squeezer.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB Air box for RV-6 |
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 6:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: FAB Air box for RV-6
>
>I am fitting the FAB airbox, or at least trying to. The plans say to cut
it
>to a length of 14 3/4 inches long. That puts it about 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch
>from the intake scoop. That's OK, but I think it leaves too little room
for
>the rubber sealing pieces. So I think I should cut off some of the length,
>but how much? I need to leave enough room on the top of the airbox for a
>connection to the hot air and a door/flapper to close off the cold impact
>air.
>
>My usual method is to cut off a little at a time until I realize I got it
>too short. Then I stop. This time I thought I would see what the other
>builders have done. I have the new S-cowl with the honeycomb guts.
>
>Stephen Soule
>Huntington, VT
>
Exact length is not too critical as the transition section from the scoop
will be fashioned to control the gap.
Some considerations:
1) Consider making a male plug to form the transition section from cowl to
airbox -- carving out the pink foam is real easy -- but it is all to easy
to carve it out wrong while stabbing at it while on-airplane. By making a
male plug out of foam you can more easily visualize how the transition
section will look and blend the lines accordingly. Then you make layups and
finally graft it to the scoop.
2) My S-cowl had a lot of Peel-Ply left attached around the intake on the
scoop and other places on the scoop and cowl. Be careful -- that stuff is
hard to recognize if you haven't worked with fiberglass. A friend saw it on
mine and warned me before I did a layup over it!
3) Tip from another lister that worked great: Make the baffle material
connecting section from scoop to box as follows: Lower section is U-shaped
and attaches to SCOOP extension -- then it naturally slides up (the way the
lower cowl attaches) over the airbox inlet. The upper section, now mainly a
straight, horizontal section with turned over tabs at ends, is attached to
the AIRBOX, as Van's recommends. This makes lower cowl attachment very
easy!
4) I got a much better fit of the scoop by ignoring the pre-formed joggles
in the S-cowl. I have good clearance on my left exhaust pipe even with a
heat muff (I am using two in series), which would not have been the case had
I used the intended placement. My scoop is about 1 1/2 inches forward and
1/2 inch left of the position dictated by the pre-formed joggles.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Dip Stick for RV6A fuel tanks |
I said I had "calibrated" dip sticks for my RV6A. Here are the
measurements - which incidentally coincide exactly with the EI digital fuel
gauge and the Fuel Scan readings. They were arrived at by filling the tanks
3-gallons at a time and measuring the fuel 'depth.'
Dip stick held vertically against the AFT side of the fuel filler hole with
aircraft on the ground in normal position.
3/8" 3 gallons
1 15/32" 6 gallons
2 13/16" 9 gallons
3 7/16" 12 gallons
4 1/2" 15 gallons
5 5/8" 18 gallons
I suppose there is some variation due to fuel expansion caused by
temperature variations, but experience shows this is relatively slight and I
ignore it. Other causes may be fuel tank shape variations (also likely to be
very small) and time to time variations in how vertically you hold the dip
stick.
I've been using these measurements for about 5 years now and for all
practical purposes they work out well.
False precision nuts: flame away!
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Petri" <dpetri(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: new category |
I am in total agreement with Bob. "Experimental" conotes images of 12 wing
flying machines or wacky art-deco composite designs. While in some cases
that may be true, kits with a record of completions and total flight hours
akin to Van's, are hardly experimental. I feel that tried and true designs
deserve more recognition by the FAA and perhaps, as Scott suggested,
"Personally Manufactured Aircraft" is a proper category. There are quite a
few kits out there that exhibit far superior flying characteristics and
better manners than certified aircraft. It's bad enough that we are
required to place a big sign in front of our guest that says the plane they
are about to fly in does not meet the standards of safety required by the
FAA. All that being said, it may not be worth the heartburn to attempt to
make these changes unless "PMA" aircraft get some specific regulatory
exclusions or better insurance rates.
Dave
RV-6A Preview Plans
----- Original Message -----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 8:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: new category
<<<>>>
I have alway thought that something along the lines of "Custom Manufactured
Aircraft" would be better. Custom Aircraft Association has a nice ring to
it.
Vince in Indiana
HRII , N314VF reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB Air box for RV-6 |
> >to a length of 14 3/4 inches long. That puts it about 1/8 inch to 1/2
inch
> >from the intake scoop. That's OK, but I think it leaves too little room
> for
> >the rubber sealing pieces.
This is definitely a wierd area, especially with an O-360. The scoop
determines where the FAB box should point and how much to cut off. But how
to tell where to put the scoop without the airbox on? Tricky. Dennis Persyk
had some good advice, although for whatever reason not all of it would have
worked for me. Namely moving the scoop up and over that far. I do wish I'd
moved it forward and over a bit but I doubt I could've moved it fwd as much
as 1.5" without having to have too big of an up-turn on the airbox. So just
be sure to be checking the vertical alignment of the scoop with the airbox
while you're doing this. I do strongly recommend you get it forward and/or
cut off the airbox so you can have an inch or more of "tunnel" section on
the inlet -- if its less than that you'll have trouble getting the cowl
upper scoop area to clear the airbox when putting on the cowl even if you do
Dennis's neat baffle seal trick (ask me how I know :-(
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new category |
This idea of changing the designation of experimental aircraft comes up now
and then, and while I agree in principle, I'd just as soon leave well enough
alone. My experience with bureaucracies is that they often take such things
as opportunites to throw in other changes that might not be so beneficial.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | FAB Air box for RV-6 |
Dennis,
You're so right about ignoring the pre-formed joggles in the air scoop and
the lower cowl. I followed the instructions and cut away to the scribe line
on the air scoop and to the joggle on the lower cowl. After 4+ years I
should have known better. Now I have an air scoop that doesn't fit the cowl
at the aft end (the cut out is too wide.) I also have had to remove my heat
muff from the lower part of the exhaust pipe because it interferes with the
cowl/scoop junction.
All of this can be fixed, I guess. I will buy a smaller heat muff and stick
it somewhere else. I can make a secure connection between the air scoop and
the lower cowl. Just one more little project!
Future builders should take that scribe line on the air scoop with a grain
of salt.
How did you reach into the air scoop to fasten those rubber strips?
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Persyk [mailto:dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FAB Air box for RV-6
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 6:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: FAB Air box for RV-6
>
>I am fitting the FAB airbox, or at least trying to. The plans say to cut
it
>to a length of 14 3/4 inches long. That puts it about 1/8 inch to 1/2 inch
>from the intake scoop. That's OK, but I think it leaves too little room
for
>the rubber sealing pieces. So I think I should cut off some of the length,
>but how much? I need to leave enough room on the top of the airbox for a
>connection to the hot air and a door/flapper to close off the cold impact
>air.
>
>My usual method is to cut off a little at a time until I realize I got it
>too short. Then I stop. This time I thought I would see what the other
>builders have done. I have the new S-cowl with the honeycomb guts.
>
>Stephen Soule
>Huntington, VT
>
Exact length is not too critical as the transition section from the scoop
will be fashioned to control the gap.
Some considerations:
1) Consider making a male plug to form the transition section from cowl to
airbox -- carving out the pink foam is real easy -- but it is all to easy
to carve it out wrong while stabbing at it while on-airplane. By making a
male plug out of foam you can more easily visualize how the transition
section will look and blend the lines accordingly. Then you make layups and
finally graft it to the scoop.
2) My S-cowl had a lot of Peel-Ply left attached around the intake on the
scoop and other places on the scoop and cowl. Be careful -- that stuff is
hard to recognize if you haven't worked with fiberglass. A friend saw it on
mine and warned me before I did a layup over it!
3) Tip from another lister that worked great: Make the baffle material
connecting section from scoop to box as follows: Lower section is U-shaped
and attaches to SCOOP extension -- then it naturally slides up (the way the
lower cowl attaches) over the airbox inlet. The upper section, now mainly a
straight, horizontal section with turned over tabs at ends, is attached to
the AIRBOX, as Van's recommends. This makes lower cowl attachment very
easy!
4) I got a much better fit of the scoop by ignoring the pre-formed joggles
in the S-cowl. I have good clearance on my left exhaust pipe even with a
heat muff (I am using two in series), which would not have been the case had
I used the intended placement. My scoop is about 1 1/2 inches forward and
1/2 inch left of the position dictated by the pre-formed joggles.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Jeff,
Something here is not quite accurate. According to the Type Certificate
Data sheets that I have there is no HO-360-E1AD. In the HO series there are
only A1A, B1A, B1B, and C1A models. There are three serieis of engines that
are E1AD models. There is the LO-360, the HIO-360 and the O-360. If the
engine was fuel injected then it would have to be the HIO-360 which is a 190
HP engine. You need to get back with that guy first and sort out exactly
which engine it is. I do know for a fact that the HIO and the HO engines
come with solid cranks for helicopter installations and were/are in Hughes
300 and Enstroms. They are good solid engines that are designed to run up
to 3250 rpm. The HIO 360 can be upgraded to a 220 hp engine with the
installation of the high compression pistons. The only problem with the
HIO-360 is the fuel injector is on the rear of the engine and, therefore,
the sump and intakes would have to be changed in order to fit into a -6.
Anyway, get back with the gut and find out exactly which engine it is first.
Once that is known we can tell you exactly which type injection system it
has and what type of engine mount you will need.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A almost paint time
>From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Engine info
>Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 20:27:53 -0500
>
>
>Greetings:
>
>This is a question for the engine gurus amongst us. I have an opportunity
>to purchase an engine and I am not sure if it is applicable to the RV6A
>that
>I am building.
>
>The engine is a HO-360-E1AD of 180 hp with a solid core crank....therefore
>fixed pitch. Yes, the "H" indicates that it is a Horizontal Helicopter
>engine. It is apparently fuel injected per information from the seller.
>The history of this engine is an over-rev at initial run-ups after
>installation in a new helicopter. The engine will be completely overhauled
>with all the appropriate new parts. As of now, no firm price has been
>mentioned, but if it is attractive, I need to know if I should make a move
>on it.
>
>My question is if this is an engine that will fit in a 6A. As there is no
>carb, I assume that this is not a factor regarding the nosewheel strut.
>Any
>red flags about this engine? I am confident that it will be a sound engine
>after OH, so that is not a concern. I just don't want to be faced with a
>multitude of mods to "make" it work.
>
>As always, Thanks in advance folks
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A
>Peshtigo, WI
>Sealing second tank
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
><< I'm building a -6A; it's hard to get your hand on her thigh in the back
>seat.
> >>
>Jack, now,now......what kind of flight rules are you flying under? IFR I
feel
>r....
>Yea, but then again, a water bed won't fly!
Locker talk in a public forum is not appropriate. I have talked to several
women builders on this list that suggested this wasn't the place for this.
Hard to use the delete key on a subject you might be interested in and have
to read it to find out it isn't what you thought it was.
Meanwhile, back to the building....................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
> >This is a question for the engine gurus amongst us.
> I have an opportunity
> >to purchase an engine and I am not sure if it is
> applicable to the RV6A
> >that
> >I am building.
> >
> >The engine is a HO-360-E1AD of 180 hp with a solid
> core crank....therefore
> >fixed pitch. Yes, the "H" indicates that it is a
> Horizontal Helicopter
> >engine. It is apparently fuel injected per
> information from the seller.
> >The history of this engine is an over-rev at
> initial run-ups after
> >installation in a new helicopter. The engine will
> be completely overhauled
> >with all the appropriate new parts. As of now, no
> firm price has been
> >mentioned, but if it is attractive, I need to know
> if I should make a move
> >on it.
> >
> >My question is if this is an engine that will fit
> in a 6A. As there is no
> >carb, I assume that this is not a factor regarding
> the nosewheel strut.
> >Any
> >red flags about this engine? I am confident that
> it will be a sound engine
> >after OH, so that is not a concern. I just don't
> want to be faced with a
> >multitude of mods to "make" it work.
> >
> >As always, Thanks in advance folks
> >
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Jeff Orear
> >RV6A
> >Peshtigo, WI
> >Sealing second tank
Jeff:
I am going from memory and may be incorrect.
Helicopter engines usually have a different cam and
power curve. They will develop full power at a higher
RPM. (above 3,000)
Try to check and compare power charts to see if it is
similar to a fixed wing engine. I would not hesitate
to use a helicopter core to build my own experimental
engine. I would use aircraft cam, PMA parts, and a
hollow crank as I do not want an RV without a constant
speed prop.
On the -6A, you need to make sure that the "UPDRAFT"
carb / FI mounts on the bottom toward the middle or
front half of the oil sump. I have an O-320 B2B that
the carb mounts on the bottom back half of the oil
sump. Works great on a -6 but will not work on a -6A.
Hope this helps. Maybe someone will post more info
about helicopter engines. I know of one flying RV-4
that has a 150 engine from a Robinson helicopter.
If the helicopter engine that you are looking at has
angle head valve engine, it will not fit in the cowl
with out a lot of cowl modifications. I would
recommend Sam James' cowl that will fit the angle head
valve engine.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cracks, caulk, etc. |
They make a very runny RTV for sealing auto windshield that you can run in
one end and run out the other. Might take a couple of coats.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Armstrong" <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 11:30 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: rudder cracks, caulk, etc.
>
>
> Several recent posts deal with cracking of the rudder/elevator
> trailing edges. The recommendation to prevent this is to add RTV
> during assembly to help brace the transition point between the
> stiffeners and the skin at the trailing edge.
>
> I built my rudder and, like many others, I remembered the RTV only
> after I riveted the skeleton to the rudder. Now that I'm done with
> beating my head against the wall, I've been trying to find a way to
> add the RTV to a completed rudder. I have an idea that I want to run
> by the list.
>
> I'm thinking of taking a piece of 1/8 ID plastic tubing and taping it
> to a small-diameter welding rod so that I can position the tubing. I
> would then squirt RTV about 2-3 inches into the end of the tube, run
> the rod/tube through the rod-end-bearing nutplate holes (3/8 inch?) in
> the rudder spar, position the tubing end at the trailing edge at each
> stiffener, and then use compressed air to blow the RTV out of the
> tubing end into the gap.
>
> I'll try it this weekend and let the list know the results. It sure
> would have been easier to do it right the first time. I'll remember
> it on the elevators ;-)
>
> Bob
> RV-8AQ Elevators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filtered air box |
So your engine lasts a long time. Doesn't take much dirt to ruin a set of
rings!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 1:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Filtered air box
>
> I'm getting ready to order the finish kit for my RV-4. I was wondering,
why
> would I want a filtered air box? Thanks again for your help!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Plenum for rv4/0360 |
Listers:
Hanging the engine very soon. Looking forward to baffles and the
cowling. Does anyone have plans or patterns for a sheet metal plenum
for and 0360, constant speed prop in an RV4. I would like to modify the
inlet holes and minimize drag by installing a plenum. There is a great
picture of one in Firewall Forward that got my interests up. Any
comments?
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Custom built |
>I like the term "Custom Built Aircraft".
That's what they call them at OSH. The area north of the main display area
is known as Custom Parking.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
I realized just a few minutes ago that the F-811B bars need to be cut to
14.75 inches from a 36 inch piece of stock. OK, but how do I do that on my
11 inch band saw? Don't tell me I need to get (perish the thought) a
hacksaw? Hand tools! Say it ain't so...
Could I do this with a Dremel?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
fuselage bulkheads & longerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
> There are quite a few kits out there that exhibit far superior flying
characteristics
Amen. I think that a name that is representative of our projects is "Custom
Built Aircraft", pronounced "see-bah". Custom Built does not imply unique
design. And we are not in the business (manufacturing). But each of our
projects ends up as a unique product. When I look in the cabin of a C-152
(my first 65 hrs) I see the same, boring product - I am only looking at the
plane to see how that dated and worn interior has weathered over the years.
Every plane that we build is custom built - they are always different. And
there is always a story. The fun and comraderie is in the story, whether
it's a Hatz biplane, an RV or a rebuilt P51. We "customize" an airworthy
aerodynamic design for a specific mission: speed, aerobatics, cruising, show
or go, engine/prop, avionics, etc., etc. Even the repeat offenders build
the same model with an entirely different "customization" in mind. I have
never seen a duplicate RV. When I study an RV I can generally recreate the
builder's "thought process" that generated the customized product. It is
like fishing. It is never about the fish - it's the fish story.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Armstrong <robert.armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder cracks, caulk, etc. |
I was able to easily fill the void between the trailing edge and the
two stiffeners with RTV on an assembled rudder. This method works for
all but two of the stiffener rows and took less than 30 minutes.
Materials
---------
1/4 x 24" aluminum tubing
1/4 ID x 12" rubber hose
1/4 ID x 1 " rubber hose
Permatex RTV Blue
Air nozzle that will slip into 1/4 rubber hose
Remove the top and center rod end bearings from the rudder. Slip one
end of the 12" piece of rubber hose over one end of the 24" piece of
aluminum tubing. Connect the other end of the rubber hose to your air
nozzle and set the regulator for about 20 psi. Cut the largest
opening in the nylon Permatex RTV tip that will let you force the tip
into the 1" rubber hose. Join the open end of the aluminum tubing to
the RTV tube with the 1" hose and squeeze the dickens out of the RTV
tube to force as much RTV into the aluminum tube as possible. Insert
the aluminum tubing through the nutplates in the spar and feel your
way to the trailing edge at the stiffeners. Blow the RTV out with
compressed air. It may take a few seconds. Repeat at least once for
each stiffener pair.
Will it make a difference? Maybe not. With luck, I'll never know. I
can see that I got a good blob of RTV all the way back to the trailing
edge, and joining the two stiffeners. It feels stiffer at those
junctures now that the RTV has set up. It makes me feel better...
Bob
RV-8AQ Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Oh brother........anyone offended by talk as lightly sexist as this should
certainly not be hanging out with any pilot's on an airport. Besides,
though you mean to be kind (or politically correct) by rebuting men for
talking this way.....have you ever heard how women talk when you're not
around? I'll bet my newly completed empennage it would make you blush. :-)
Bill
-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
Use a cutoff wheel in your die grinder or dremel tool.
Hack saw takes less time.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I realized just a few minutes ago that the F-811B bars need to be cut to
> 14.75 inches from a 36 inch piece of stock. OK, but how do I do that on my
> 11 inch band saw? Don't tell me I need to get (perish the thought) a
> hacksaw? Hand tools! Say it ain't so...
It takes two cuts to make a cut like this on your bandsaw. First cut is at an
angle (about 30 deg) and an inch or so to long. Second cut is two cut the
14.75" piece from the 16" piece you just made. Understand? A little material
is lost using this method.
Gary Zilik
N99PZ
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Get yourself one of those fiber cutting wheels and put it on the bench
grinder. Works great for "part" long stock (steel or alu).
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 6:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: F-811B bars
>
> I realized just a few minutes ago that the F-811B bars need to be cut to
> 14.75 inches from a 36 inch piece of stock. OK, but how do I do that on
my
> 11 inch band saw? Don't tell me I need to get (perish the thought) a
> hacksaw? Hand tools! Say it ain't so...
>
> Could I do this with a Dremel?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> fuselage bulkheads & longerons
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB Air box for RV-6 |
> This is definitely a wierd area, especially with an O-360. The scoop
> determines where the FAB box should point and how much to cut off. But
how
> to tell where to put the scoop without the airbox on? Tricky. Dennis
Persyk
> had some good advice, although for whatever reason not all of it would
have
> worked for me. Namely moving the scoop up and over that far. I do wish
I'd
> moved it forward and over a bit but I doubt I could've moved it fwd as
much
> as 1.5" without having to have too big of an up-turn on the airbox. So
just
> be sure to be checking the vertical alignment of the scoop with the
airbox
> while you're doing this. I do strongly recommend you get it forward
and/or
> cut off the airbox so you can have an inch or more of "tunnel" section on
> the inlet -- if its less than that you'll have trouble getting the cowl
> upper scoop area to clear the airbox when putting on the cowl even if you
do
> Dennis's neat baffle seal trick (ask me how I know :-(
Leaving final attachment of the scoop until after building and fitting the
FAB is also very helpful. I simply drilled and clecoed the scoop on in the
nominal location prior to fitting the FAB. I bet I removed it 20 times
during that process. BTW, I used clay instead of the foam fuzz, and then
layed up the glass inside the female clay mold. Made it easy to transition
from the oval inlet shape to the D shaped FAB inlet. The forward end of
the FAB (Airflow Performance 360) was cut about as far aft as I could
without interfering with the alternate air door.
Alex Peterson 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB Air box for RV-6 |
> You're so right about ignoring the pre-formed joggles in the air scoop
and
> the lower cowl. I followed the instructions and cut away to the scribe
line
> on the air scoop and to the joggle on the lower cowl. After 4+ years I
> should have known better. Now I have an air scoop that doesn't fit the
cowl
> at the aft end (the cut out is too wide.) I also have had to remove my
heat
> muff from the lower part of the exhaust pipe because it interferes with
the
> cowl/scoop junction.
>
> All of this can be fixed, I guess. I will buy a smaller heat muff and
stick
> it somewhere else. I can make a secure connection between the air scoop
and
> the lower cowl. Just one more little project!
I had the same problem with the heat muff interfering with the scoop on my
6A, and was debating all sorts of not-so-fun fiberglass fixes. Then I
simply rotated the exhaust pipes in the spherical joint until the last
little bends were aimed somewhat inward, and the clearance problem was
eliminated. My plane might look a little bow-legged, but the heat muff
won't beat on the cowl. The perfect fix would be to make the last little
downward bends in the pipes angled outward from standard, maybe a muffler
shop would have the proper tools?
Alex Peterson 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Humor: Name my plane (was: locker talk) |
My wife suggested "BONDO BOMBER!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator horn spacing |
Hello Listers,
Recently on the list I saw some references to the elevator horn spacing
difficulty.
I had no time then to reply so here goes:
I Had the same problem with my elevator horns. In my case the space was one
quarter inch on both sides.
Instead of washers:
I made two spacers approximately 1 3/8' x 1/2' from some 1/4' aluminum 6061
stock, 2024 would also do.
If your fit requires a different thickness file, grind or use appropriate
thickness material.
I drilled one end to fit the required 1/4" hole. I tapered the other end to
about 1/4" to reduce weight.
I then fit the spacer with a 1/4" bolt to it's position. I oriented the
tapered end toward the center of the circular weld that holds the horn to
it's tubular shaft. Surrounded by welded material this area should be safe
structurally.
I drilled two 1/8" holes through the Spacer and the horn into the area in
the center of the round welded area. Two 1/8" pop rivets hold the spacer in
place for assembly eliminating the need to try to fit washers in a very
restricted blind area later on.
If this is unclear I will make an effort to explain further on request. I do
have pictures but no means of converting them to electronic media.
I have a drawing that can be faxed.
Jim in Kelowna BC. RV6a finish kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Many RV's? |
Mine is to be delivered Wed 5/10 and my serial number is 90073
John Oliveira wrote:
>
> I can give you a clue on the RV9A - I just received my empennage kit,
> Ordered on 3-23, received 4 - 20. Serial Number 90054
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
> Here's a question I have about mounting the gascolator in an 8A with
Airflow
> Performance injection. The firewall penetration is fixed at a certain
> height by the pump and with the engine mount tubes, you cannot mount the
> gascolator at the bottom of the engine compartment if you mount it on the
> firewall. You could mount it to the engine mount but with the angles on
the
> tubes, I don't see how. Does the gascolator have to be at the low point
in
> the system? Or will it work if it is higher up? Thanks, Jeff Farrar,
RV8A
> N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage
almost,
> fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jdheath(at)premierweb.net (JohnHeath) |
| Subject: | Re: new category |
Custom Crafted Aircraft ???
JDH
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 6:04 PM
Subject: Fw: RV-List: new category
>
> > There are quite a few kits out there that exhibit far superior flying
> characteristics
>
> Amen. I think that a name that is representative of our projects is
"Custom
> Built Aircraft", pronounced "see-bah". Custom Built does not imply
unique
> design. And we are not in the business (manufacturing). But each of our
> projects ends up as a unique product. When I look in the cabin of a C-152
> (my first 65 hrs) I see the same, boring product - I am only looking at
the
> plane to see how that dated and worn interior has weathered over the
years.
> Every plane that we build is custom built - they are always different.
And
> there is always a story. The fun and comraderie is in the story, whether
> it's a Hatz biplane, an RV or a rebuilt P51. We "customize" an airworthy
> aerodynamic design for a specific mission: speed, aerobatics, cruising,
show
> or go, engine/prop, avionics, etc., etc. Even the repeat offenders build
> the same model with an entirely different "customization" in mind. I have
> never seen a duplicate RV. When I study an RV I can generally recreate
the
> builder's "thought process" that generated the customized product. It is
> like fishing. It is never about the fish - it's the fish story.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
>Brian,
I would suggest you check your idle mixture setting, because it sounds like
it's running lean. Run your engine to get to operating temperature, set 900
RPM, using the mixture control, go to cut-off from full rich in approx. 3
seconds. You should see a 10 to 25 RPM rise when properly adjusted. If the
rise in RPM is nil it's a lean indication and you should unscrew the
adjustment half a turn at a time and try again.
Hope this helps, keep us appraised of the situation.
Good luck
Alain Nantel(at)hotmail.com
RV-6 working the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CFM's needed for pneumatic squeezers |
Should work just fine with your combo. I think I used to have the same
compressor and have had no problems with it handling the squeezer.
The squeezer really doesn't take that much air, it seems, but I did run the
pressure up around 90.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 9:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: CFM's needed for pneumatic squeezers
>
> I just bought a Campbell Hausfield compressor - 6HP, Max. 120PSI, Avg. 5.8
> CFM @ 90 PSI. It uses oil, has one cylinder, a belt and a cast iron 30
> gallon tank.
>
> I also bought a die grinder that 'require' 6.0 CFM and a 'fittings kit'.
It
> works great. I inflated every basket and soccer ball in the house and even
> pumped up my sons bicycle tires, and what the heck; the air mattress while
I
> was at it. Here ya go kids - go out and play while dad makes airplane
noises
> in the workshop!
> Does anyone know how many CFM's the Avery Tools pneumatic squeezer needs
to
> operate? I didn't see any specs on it. Hate to buy it and not being able
to
> power it.
>
> Hope I didn't buy a too wimpy compressor... The next step up was 12.5 CFM
> and double the price ($1200).
> My wife wasn't too exited about the purchase but is quickly getting used
to
> it. Hopefully she'll get used to a new O-360 C/S and a wee bit of avionics
> just as easily...
>
> Thanks,
> Are Barstad
> RV-6
> Loretto, Ontario
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new category |
>
>This idea of changing the designation of experimental aircraft comes up now
>and then, and while I agree in principle, I'd just as soon leave well enough
>alone. My experience with bureaucracies is that they often take such things
>as opportunites to throw in other changes that might not be so beneficial.
I don't think I made the point very clear . . . I wouldn't
suggest anything having to do with the FAA . . . I recall
an upstart guitar picker and insurance salesman staging the
1st Annual National Flatpicking Championships in Winfield,
Kansas about 28 years ago. Everybody looked at him like he'd
really flipped out . . . where did HE get off staging a
NATIONAL event in Podunk Holler, KS . . . 28 years later,
guess what? It has indeed become a national . . . no
an INTERnational event.
I'm thinking along lines of coining a phrase that more
accurately describes us and perhaps with words friendlier
to public perceptions. I think I mentioned an effort in
Canada to allow owners of out-of-production aircraft to
de-certify their ships and maintain them just as if they
were an RV-6 or a Kitfox. I believe the Canadian DOT
was going to call them "Owner Maintained."
My point is that if the majority of the industry refers
to itself by some term with better PR image . . . who
knows, it might even sink into the psyche of those who
wield the rule books.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Metalplane(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: hartwell latch |
I used two.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moshe Lichtman" <moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Eliminate "Greasy Belly" |
the latest Sport Aviation issue (page 112) has a small article/ad on a new
oil separator that was recently STC'ed. it's Model 300 by a company called
M-20 Oil Separators, LLC. it clamps in-line with the breather hose and needs
no mounting brackets. Condensed oil vapor is returned to the crankcase via
gravity. it claims to eliminate the typical greasy belly and the oil loss
when filling the "top two quarts"..
am wondering if anyone on the list has had any experience with it or similar
separator. the one i have blows a lot of "greasy stuff" on the belly and i
do have to fill oil quite frequently, so this sounds like a real dream..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
>
> Van's website describes the 9A empennage kit to be in stock. Does it
usually
> take a month from order to delivery?> Are Barstad
>
For me (kit #90030) the RV-9A dates are:
Empenage ordered on Jan. 18, shipment received on Feb. 2
Wing kit was ordered on Apr. 24, order to be shipped week of Jun. 19.
It will probably be over 2 months. I should have ordered earlier.
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Wings Ordered EAA: #430137
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email: ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca
___ I___
______( 0 )______
/ \
" "
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
I didn't see the original post, but another place to look if your engine
is backfiring is those rubber couplings on the end of each induction
tube. Look for loose clamps and cracks in the tubing. Been there done
that (On my old Continental 85HP Chief)...
Scott
RV4
alain nantel wrote:
>
>
> >Brian,
> I would suggest you check your idle mixture setting, because it sounds like
> it's running lean. Run your engine to get to operating temperature, set 900
> RPM, using the mixture control, go to cut-off from full rich in approx. 3
> seconds. You should see a 10 to 25 RPM rise when properly adjusted. If the
> rise in RPM is nil it's a lean indication and you should unscrew the
> adjustment half a turn at a time and try again.
> Hope this helps, keep us appraised of the situation.
> Good luck
>
> Alain Nantel(at)hotmail.com
> RV-6 working the panel
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: gascolator |
Jeff,
We used a firewall bulkhead fitting between the pump & gascolator, with
tubing cut to size between the Bulkhead fitting and pump & gascolator. The
gascolator (Andair) was mounted off an L bracket we made and was backed up
with a plate on the cockpit side of the firewall. This placed the top of the
gascolator at the level of the output from the pipe. It's was a fairly easy
installation.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
>From: "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Fw: gascolator
>Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 19:49:40 -0700
>
>
> > Here's a question I have about mounting the gascolator in an 8A with
>Airflow
> > Performance injection. The firewall penetration is fixed at a certain
> > height by the pump and with the engine mount tubes, you cannot mount the
> > gascolator at the bottom of the engine compartment if you mount it on
>the
> > firewall. You could mount it to the engine mount but with the angles on
>the
> > tubes, I don't see how. Does the gascolator have to be at the low
>point
>in
> > the system? Or will it work if it is higher up? Thanks, Jeff Farrar,
>RV8A
> > N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage
>almost,
> > fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HAROLD1339(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Eliminate "Greasy Belly" |
I installed one on a Cessna 172-XP and it seems to be working well. The belly
is much cleaner. So far I would recommend it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Dimensions |
I put an O360-A3A in the back of a Jeep Cherokee Limited. It was best to
hang a piece of plywood out the back because there is not a whole lot of
room on the side and you will have to slide it in. I kept the engine on
it's stowage tire to do this.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320-E2A Backfiring |
I did not see the original e-mail about this but heres
is what I do when troubleshooting a backfiring engine.
Hope this will help you
look at the easiest solution first
1. those darn black rubber couplings on the induction
tubes are always suspect. Tighten them and look for
cracking, if it is cracked it is drawing air and will
cause backfiring
2. check around the carb, the gasket that mates to the
intake manifold and the carb if it draws air then it
will back fire
3. timing check your mags for correct timing
4. plugs check for proper gap
5. plug wires, check for any opens in the casing
6. valves,pushrods etc you know what I mean here
7. if this does not get rid of the backfiring you have
a sick engine in serious need of a trained
professional. Get help
Glenn
--- Scott wrote:
>
>
> I didn't see the original post, but another place to
> look if your engine
> is backfiring is those rubber couplings on the end
> of each induction
> tube. Look for loose clamps and cracks in the
> tubing. Been there done
> that (On my old Continental 85HP Chief)...
>
> Scott
> RV4
>
>
> alain nantel wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > >Brian,
> > I would suggest you check your idle mixture
> setting, because it sounds like
> > it's running lean. Run your engine to get to
> operating temperature, set 900
> > RPM, using the mixture control, go to cut-off from
> full rich in approx. 3
> > seconds. You should see a 10 to 25 RPM rise when
> properly adjusted. If the
> > rise in RPM is nil it's a lean indication and you
> should unscrew the
> > adjustment half a turn at a time and try again.
> > Hope this helps, keep us appraised of the
> situation.
> > Good luck
> >
> > Alain Nantel(at)hotmail.com
> > RV-6 working the panel
> >
>
> --
> --Scott--
> 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
> RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Eliminate "Greasy Belly" |
In a message dated 5/9/00 10:29:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
moshe_lichtman(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< am wondering if anyone on the list has had any experience with it or
similar
separator. the one i have blows a lot of "greasy stuff" on the belly and i
do have to fill oil quite frequently, so this sounds like a real dream. >>
Check the archives. I did a short post on my solution to the oil breather
issue some time back.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: gascolator |
In a message dated 5/9/00 8:37:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jfarrar1(at)home.com
writes:
<< Does the gascolator have to be at the low point in the system? Or will it
work if it is higher up? >>
The gascolator is merely an inline gravity water separator that will shunt a
small quantity of water off to the bottom of the bowl and allow the lighter
fuel to pass thru the mesh filter. It can be anywhere in the fuel line and I
don't know how this myth about it needing to be the lowest point in the
system got started.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eliminate "Greasy Belly" |
> after talking this over with George O he expressed to
> me that Lycoming may not like these contraptions for
Just about a week ago, I had this very conversation with Lycoming about my new
O-360, and they
definitely do not like air/oil separators. The reason given was corrosion due
to water being
returned to the engine. However, since the amount of liquid that's returned is
so small, I believe
you can use a small reservoir to hold it between oil changes, rather than allowing
it to go back to
the engine. I just tossed my separator in a bag, and set mine up the standard
way. Another local
RV-8 builder installed his, and we'll see what the difference is once we get both
planes in the air.
Along the same subject, Lycoming told me that the engine was "happiest" at the
6 quart oil level.
They said the 8 quart level was to satisfy an FAA requirement to be able to fly
for X number of
hours with a completely worn out engine. According to Lycoming, the 7th and 8th
quart will increase
the mess on the belly significantly.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (Flying by the first week in June)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eliminate "Greasy Belly" |
> the one i have blows a lot of "greasy stuff" on the belly and i
> do have to fill oil quite frequently, so this sounds like a real dream. >>
Just checking. You're not filling your oil all the way up to 8 quarts; are
you? I keep my 0-360 at about 6 1/2 quarts. If it gets anywhere over 7, it too
just spits it out all over the belly.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
RV-6A N-5060
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone install adjustable aileron stops (in an -8) on the fwd side of the
spar carry through? Other locations? What I'm thinking about is pretty
much like other planes I've seen using an adjustable jack bolt with a flat
head. The flat head of the bolt is what the side of the control column
bumps against to set the aileron travel. I don't care for the suggested
stops installed on the hinge attachment. Any comments or better ideas...
Bryan Jones
-8 ready for inspection -
after aileron stops!
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rush <krush(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00 |
I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C DAR,
and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our Airworthiness
Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
true??? Surely not!
Larry, RV-6A final/finish stuff,3SY Avon.In.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | electric flap retrofit -6 |
Listers,
I'm wondering if anyone out there has installed electric flaps on a -6
without relocating the flap handle aft of F-605...I'm getting ready to do
mine but moving the flap handle and shortening all the arms is going to be a
bunch of work for me since I will have to relocate my fire extinguisher and
elt, redo carpet, etc. I realize that the travel is different with the
electric flap installation...but does anyone know if it is do-able?
Bob Japundza
Kokomo, IN
RV-6 N244BJ O-360 C/S close to flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00 |
Larry Rush wrote:
>
>
> I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C DAR,
> and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our Airworthiness
> Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
> true??? Surely not!
>
> Larry, RV-6A final/finish stuff,3SY Avon.In.
>
>
Larry--
That's what it said in June, 1998, "EXPERIMENTAL OPERATING LIMITATIONS:
Operating Amateur-Built Aircraft", Phase II, Limitation 1. (ie,
Limitation ...3...from Phase I are applicable)
I have not had time to read the new regs: 8130.2D.
Boyd
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | prop bolt's/how long |
I have a 0360 with Mark Landoll's steel ring @ 1", Culver prop @ 41/4, and
Van's 21/4 prop extension. Just wandering if I'm missing something before I
ordered my bolts. I'm not sure how thick Van's prop ext is and how much
longer the bolts need to be in the hub.
Thanks,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/9/2000 6:59:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
> It takes two cuts to make a cut like this on your bandsaw. First cut is at
an
> angle (about 30 deg) and an inch or so to long. Second cut is two cut the
> 14.75" piece from the 16" piece you just made. Understand? A little
material
> is lost using this method.
>
> Gary Zilik
> N99PZ
Thanks for the tip. This is what I ended up doing and it worked perfectly.
I had a moment when I realized that the leftover bar stock needed to be used
for the F-806 and I didn't know if my remaining pieces would be sufficient.
Fortunately, the F-806 only requires a couple of 5/8" slices of the bar. No
problem.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
fuselage bulkheads & longerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | flight over densely populated areas |
Larry Rush wrote:
>
>
> I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C DAR,
> and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our Airworthiness
> Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
> true??? Surely not!
Not true. Please reference the following document from the FAA.
Hopefully your friend will do his homework before he inspects too many
planes.... :-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaaay.net/~sbuc/journal
ORDER: 8700.1
APPENDIX: 3
BULLETIN TYPE: Flight Standards Handbook Bulletin for General Aviation
(HBGA)
BULLETIN NUMBER: HBGA 99-13
BULLETIN TITLE: Operations over Densely Populated Areas, Experimental,
Amateur-Built Aircraft
EFFECTIVE DATE: 07-14-99
TRACKING NUMBER: N/A
1. SUBJECT. This bulletin contains guidance regarding the issuance of
authorizations in accordance with Title 14 Code of Federal Regulations
(14 CFR) part 91, section 91.319(c) for experimental category aircraft
with an amateur-built purpose.
2. BACKGROUND. The General Aviation and Commercial Division,
AFS-800, has received comments and questions regarding the issuance of
authorizations to operators of experimental category,
amateur-built aircraft for flights over densely populated areas or on
congested airways. These questions are a result of HBGA 98-05, Issuing
Operating Limitations for Experimental Category,
Amateur-Built Aircraft for Flight Over Densely Populated Areas
(14 CFR 91.319(c)), dated 05-28-98. The following information is
provided to clarify and answer those questions.
3. POLICY.
A. Experimental, amateur-built aircraft that received an airworthiness
certificate before the issuance date of HBGA 98-05, (May 28, 1998) and
that received an authorization in the form of operations limitations
allowing operations over densely populated areas for the purpose of
takeoffs and landings are considered to have authorization for takeoffs
and landings and en route operations over densely populated areas
without revising or re-issuing the existing operating limitations.
B. Experimental, amateur-built aircraft that received a special
airworthiness certificate after May 28, 1998, may be issued operating
limitations which allow flight over densely populated areas once the
following conditions have been met:
(1) The operator has determined that the aircraft has no unsafe or
hazardous operating characteristics or design features; and
(2) The operator has determined that the aircraft is controllable
throughout its normal range of speeds and during all the maneuvers to be
executed in accordance with 14 CFR
section 91.319(b).
NOTE: The operating limitations which allow flight over densely
populated areas may be issued prior to the completion of Phase I
testing. The authorization should clearly state that the Phase I
testing must be completed in order to make the authorization valid.
Upon completion of the Phase I testing, the operator need NOT be issued
a separate letter to authorize flight over congested areas.
C. Flight Standards District Office inspectors and Flight
Standards-appointed Designated Airworthiness Representatives (DAR) may
issue these authorizations. Designated Airworthiness Representatives
will obtain concurrence from the applicant's geographically responsible
FSDO before issuing an authorization.
4. INQUIRIES. This bulletin was developed by AFS-820. Any questions
regarding this information should be directed to AFS-820 at
(202) 267-8194.
5. LOCATION. This bulletin will remain in effect until incorporated
into FAA Order 8700.1, General Aviation Operations Inspectors Handbook.
/s/Phyllis Anne Duncan for
Michael L. Henry
Manager, General Aviation
and Commercial Division, AFS-800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Badges for List (Shipping Info) Need to Read to get Badge |
Listers
I have 60 Name Badges almost ready for shipping but some people did not get
the post on sending me a self addressed mailer with 66 cent postage. I will
hold the one's I have not received untill I get the mailer. They look Great
!! and hope to hear some response when you receive them. I have added a
little more to the logo but not much. I look forward to seeing all of them at
Oshkosh this year, at least we will know our fellow listers!!!
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
http://members.aol.com/panelcut
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Wed, 10 May 2000 09:53:27.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00 |
05/10/2000 10:00:35 AM
I recall reading about this a few months ago in Sport Aviation and in the
AOPA mag, the FAA has "clarified" this and experimentals are allowed to fly
over heavily populated areas officially now. You alway were able to for
landing and takeoff, but there was no definition of what that meant, i.e. I
am going to be landing at that airport 500nm away, and am over this heavily
populated area here, but I am "legal" because I am landing. It was a big
gray area, but has since been made white. I'm sure someone will post the
exact reg number, but I don't worry about it anymore.
Scott Fink
RV6 ready to skin left wing
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ES
MTP (InterMail To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
vM.4.01.02.00 cc:
201-229-116) Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:
RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com
05/10/2000 08:56 AM
Please respond to
rv-list
201-229-116) with ESMTP
Larry Rush wrote:
>
>
> I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C
DAR,
> and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our
Airworthiness
> Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
> true??? Surely not!
>
> Larry, RV-6A final/finish stuff,3SY Avon.In.
>
>
Larry--
That's what it said in June, 1998, "EXPERIMENTAL OPERATING LIMITATIONS:
Operating Amateur-Built Aircraft", Phase II, Limitation 1. (ie,
Limitation ...3...from Phase I are applicable)
I have not had time to read the new regs: 8130.2D.
Boyd
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
How about Non-Commercial Built, - NCB?
Or, Custon Built, Non-Commercial - CBNC?
Completing electric flap installation. Needed to cut out the F-649R to
fit around the flap weldment. Double checked the dimensions, made a
template, checked its fit (perfect,) transferred the template to the
F-649R, made the cuts and filed smooth. Real professional job. Then
found I made the cutout on the wrong end of the F-649R. ARGH!!! &*
%$#@)%(*!
Charlie Brame
6AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric flap retrofit -6 |
Bob, check out this modification that Jim Cone documented. I don't know if
it answers your question but it seems like an interesting way to install
electric flaps and free up some baggage space.
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/flap_mod.htm
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: electric flap retrofit -6
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm wondering if anyone out there has installed electric flaps on a -6
> without relocating the flap handle aft of F-605...I'm getting ready to do
> mine but moving the flap handle and shortening all the arms is going to be
a
> bunch of work for me since I will have to relocate my fire extinguisher
and
> elt, redo carpet, etc. I realize that the travel is different with the
> electric flap installation...but does anyone know if it is do-able?
>
> Bob Japundza
> Kokomo, IN
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360 C/S close to flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Category |
>How about Non-Commercial Built, - NCB?
>Or, Custon Built, Non-Commercial - CBNC?
How about Custom Reengineered Aircraft Project or CRAP for short. This is to
express how one feels after just finding out that you forgot to switch from the
#30 to the #40 drill bit after drilling five or six skin holes. Don't ask me
how I know this....pass the oops rivets please :-)
- Jim Andrews
RV8Aq ( fuse - panel stuff )
N89JA (reserved)
Austin, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight over densely populated areas |
Sam, I am probably confused here, (not unusual) but this bulletin would seem
to preclude assembling and test flying your experimental at an airport in a
congested area, South Florida, for example, at least until "the operator has
determined.....etc" Does this mean that we have to haul the a/c to a rural
area airport initially?
Andy Johnson, wings almost, fuse kit in the shop.
>>>Larry Rush wrote:
>
>
> I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C DAR,
> and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our Airworthiness
> Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
> true??? Surely not!
Not true. Please reference the following document from the FAA.
Hopefully your friend will do his homework before he inspects too many
planes.... :-)
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaaay.net/~sbuc/journal
ORDER: 8700.1
APPENDIX: 3
BULLETIN TYPE: Flight Standards Handbook Bulletin for General Aviation
(HBGA)
BULLETIN NUMBER: HBGA 99-13
BULLETIN TITLE: Operations over Densely Populated Areas, Experimental,
Amateur-Built Aircraft < snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00 |
It IS true, BUT only during your Phase 1 operation...after you fly off your
25 or 40 hours, you can go where you want to without restrictions except for
those that apply to all aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Yesterday was the first engine start for N417G. The Aerosport O-320 purred
like a kitten. I have three quick questions for those more experienced than
I:
1) How long does it take to get a cylinder head temperature reading? I
have the Mitchell CHT with the probe in the temperature well of cylinder #3.
I ran the engine for about 2-3 minutes with about 15 seconds at full power.
The engine was hot to the touch when I stopped but I wasn't reading any temp
on the gauge. I'm hesitant to run it too long on the ramp due to break-in
constraints, but I'd like to check the gauge out. I can always pull the
probe and immerse it in some hot oil, but I was hoping that I just didn't
wait long enough.
2) When I retard the throttle all the way, the engine quits. I assume that
I need to adjust the throttle stop. What RPM works best? Is the throttle
stop screw the right one to adjust? Is 400 RPM to 600 RPM the right range?
3) At what RPM does your engine draw full vacuum? Does it do it at idle?
I suspect that I have a problem with my vacuum gauge but I'm going to double
check that I didn't plump the vacuum pump backwards.
Thanks for the answers to my stupid questions. Airplane is about ready to
go. FAA out next week, but the test pilot needs a little more training.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Just about done"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight over densely populated areas |
Sam, I know this is directed toward you but I can't help myself but to jump
in here. Since the new FAA Order 8130.2D (Airworthiness Certification) came
out the bulletin you mentioned is no longer needed. It is still there but
we don't use it any more. The new Order, under the Operating Limitations
section for Amateur Builts gives authorization for flights over densely
populated areas but, as usual, by a backhanded method. It states that
flights over densely populated areas are not authorized unless directed to
do so by ATC , or unless sufficient altitude is maintained to effect a safe
emergency landing in the event of engine failure, without hazard to people
or property on the ground. In other words, use common sense and always keep
an emergency landing spot in sight. Which is no different than what any
pilot should be doing anyways.
As far as test flight areas go, the order directs us to FAR 91.305, which is
very clear. It states that "No person may flight test an aircraft except
over open water, or sparsely populated areas, having light air traffic."
Other than that it is up to negotiations between you and your local FAA rep.
Mike Robertson
"Das Fed"
RV-8A
>From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: flight over densely populated areas
>Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 14:26:14 EDT
>
>
>Sam, I am probably confused here, (not unusual) but this bulletin would
>seem
>to preclude assembling and test flying your experimental at an airport in a
>congested area, South Florida, for example, at least until "the operator
>has
>determined.....etc" Does this mean that we have to haul the a/c to a rural
>area airport initially?
>Andy Johnson, wings almost, fuse kit in the shop.
>
>
> >>>Larry Rush wrote:
> >
> >
> > I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C
>DAR,
> > and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our
>Airworthiness
> > Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
> > true??? Surely not!
>
>
>Not true. Please reference the following document from the FAA.
>Hopefully your friend will do his homework before he inspects too many
>planes.... :-)
>
>Sam Buchanan
>"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
>ORDER: 8700.1
>APPENDIX: 3
>BULLETIN TYPE: Flight Standards Handbook Bulletin for General
>Aviation
>(HBGA)
>BULLETIN NUMBER: HBGA 99-13
>BULLETIN TITLE: Operations over Densely Populated Areas,
>Experimental,
>Amateur-Built Aircraft < snip
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00 |
Scott and all,
You are correct about the landing and takeoff part. It has always been in
the Operating Limitations. About a year ago a new bulletin came out changing
all that. That has since been re-enforced with the new Order 8130.2D on
airworthiness certification. Flight is now authorized over densely
populated areas provided there is an emergency landing area within engine
out gliding distance at all times. The "amateur builts" have proven their
safety record. But there is a little humbug here. For those folks who got
their Operating Limitations prior to these new changes came out still have
the "Old" limitation in their Operating Limitations. Unless, and until, the
owner goes to their local FSDO and gets their Limitations changed, they are
still restricted to take-offs and landings in densely populated areas.
Obviously nobody is going to go out and check everyone's Operating
Limitations until something happens (Incident,etc.). Then it could come
back to haunt them. Sounds silly but those are the legal Operating
Limitations issued to that aircraft and are binding until changed.
Mike Robertson
"Das Fed"
RV-8A
>From: Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Wed, 10 May 2000
>09:53:27.-0700(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00
>Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 09:59:53 -0700 05/10/2000 10:00:35 AM
>
>
>
>I recall reading about this a few months ago in Sport Aviation and in the
>AOPA mag, the FAA has "clarified" this and experimentals are allowed to fly
>over heavily populated areas officially now. You alway were able to for
>landing and takeoff, but there was no definition of what that meant, i.e. I
>am going to be landing at that airport 500nm away, and am over this heavily
>populated area here, but I am "legal" because I am landing. It was a big
>gray area, but has since been made white. I'm sure someone will post the
>exact reg number, but I don't worry about it anymore.
>
>Scott Fink
>RV6 ready to skin left wing
>
>
> bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ES
> MTP (InterMail To:
>rv-list(at)matronics.com
> vM.4.01.02.00 cc:
> 201-229-116) Subject: Re:
>RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00
> Sent by:
> owner-rv-list-server@mat
> ronics.com
>
>
> 05/10/2000 08:56 AM
> Please respond to
> rv-list
>
>
>201-229-116) with ESMTP
>
>Larry Rush wrote:
> >
> >
> > I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C
>DAR,
> > and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our
>Airworthiness
> > Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
> > true??? Surely not!
> >
> > Larry, RV-6A final/finish stuff,3SY Avon.In.
> >
> >
>Larry--
>
>That's what it said in June, 1998, "EXPERIMENTAL OPERATING LIMITATIONS:
>Operating Amateur-Built Aircraft", Phase II, Limitation 1. (ie,
>Limitation ...3...from Phase I are applicable)
>
>I have not had time to read the new regs: 8130.2D.
>
>Boyd
>RV S6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: gascolator |
Initially I had the same concerns with the engine mount but found a solution
that has worked out great. I installed a straight bulkhead fitting throught
he firewall and then used a 90 degree swivel type fitting that I got from
Earl's. That placed the gascolator with the flow parallel to the firewall.
It was then a simple matter of making a bracket mounting the gascolator to
the firewall. Then I installed a push-up quick drain on the bottom of the
gascolator with the drain hose about 4 inches long going out the bottom of
the cowling.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Prepping to paint
>From: "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Fw: gascolator
>Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 19:49:40 -0700
>
>
> > Here's a question I have about mounting the gascolator in an 8A with
>Airflow
> > Performance injection. The firewall penetration is fixed at a certain
> > height by the pump and with the engine mount tubes, you cannot mount the
> > gascolator at the bottom of the engine compartment if you mount it on
>the
> > firewall. You could mount it to the engine mount but with the angles on
>the
> > tubes, I don't see how. Does the gascolator have to be at the low
>point
>in
> > the system? Or will it work if it is higher up? Thanks, Jeff Farrar,
>RV8A
> > N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done, fuselage
>almost,
> > fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight over densely populated areas |
Common sense would dictate going to a rural airport for initial test flying.
Most problems occur during the first few hours of test flying, do you really
want to be in a populated area if that should happen? Think of the benefits
of a small airport. Little or no traffic, allowing you to focus on your
aircraft alone. Generally wide open areas should the engine decide to stop
making noise. Few people on the ground crowding around possibly raising
anxiety.
Just my .03 cents worth,
Micah Froese
>
>Sam, I am probably confused here, (not unusual) but this bulletin would
>seem
>to preclude assembling and test flying your experimental at an airport in a
>congested area, South Florida, for example, at least until "the operator
>has
>determined.....etc" Does this mean that we have to haul the a/c to a rural
>area airport initially?
>Andy Johnson, wings almost, fuse kit in the shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Badges for List (Shipping Info) Need to Read to get Badge |
Steve:
I have been traveling and did not get the email on badges. How and what do I
do to get one?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
North Carolina (N901LL res)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight over densely populated areas |
In a message dated 5/10/00 1:28:09 PM Central Daylight Time,
RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com writes:
<< assembling and test flying your experimental at an airport in a
congested area, South Florida, for example, at least until "the operator has
determined.....etc" Does this mean that we have to haul the a/c to a rural
area airport initially? >>
Andy, it has been 10 years so things may have changed. I am based at Lake in
the Hills (3CK) which is under the Chicago O'Hare airspace. For my last
Custom Built Aircraft I requested and was given a test area which had 3CK at
the Eastern edge with the remaining test area away from most of the
population and the O'Hare space.
The FAA inspector was happy with that arrangement.
Dale Ensing
6A engine cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00 |
It is amazing how many read the regs and then quote hook, line and verse and
they are wrong. Yes, it does say that, BUT there is a letter of
understanding between the FAA and the EAA that once you fly off your test
flying, you can fly anywhere that a certified plane can fly with the same
restrictions. If you or your 90 wonder need additional material or
explanation, contact Earl Lawrence, in Government Relations at EAA...
elawrence(at)eaa.org
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rush" <krush(at)iquest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 77 Msgs - 05/09/00
>
> I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C
DAR,
> and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our Airworthiness
> Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
> true??? Surely not!
>
> Larry, RV-6A final/finish stuff,3SY Avon.In.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
You can also put in Non-square blade guides that twist the blade enough for
3 to 5" wide unlimited length cross cuts.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kbalch1(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 11:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: F-811B bars
>
> In a message dated 5/9/2000 6:59:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
>
> > It takes two cuts to make a cut like this on your bandsaw. First cut is
at
> an
> > angle (about 30 deg) and an inch or so to long. Second cut is two cut
the
> > 14.75" piece from the 16" piece you just made. Understand? A little
> material
> > is lost using this method.
> >
> > Gary Zilik
> > N99PZ
>
> Thanks for the tip. This is what I ended up doing and it worked
perfectly.
> I had a moment when I realized that the leftover bar stock needed to be
used
> for the F-806 and I didn't know if my remaining pieces would be
sufficient.
> Fortunately, the F-806 only requires a couple of 5/8" slices of the bar.
No
> problem.
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> fuselage bulkheads & longerons
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flight over densely populated areas |
Even test flying out of a Class C airport can be and is done.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: flight over densely populated areas
>
> Sam, I am probably confused here, (not unusual) but this bulletin would
seem
> to preclude assembling and test flying your experimental at an airport in
a
> congested area, South Florida, for example, at least until "the operator
has
> determined.....etc" Does this mean that we have to haul the a/c to a rural
> area airport initially?
> Andy Johnson, wings almost, fuse kit in the shop.
>
>
> >>>Larry Rush wrote:
> >
> >
> > I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C
DAR,
> > and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our
Airworthiness
> > Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is this
> > true??? Surely not!
>
>
> Not true. Please reference the following document from the FAA.
> Hopefully your friend will do his homework before he inspects too many
> planes.... :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
> ORDER: 8700.1
> APPENDIX: 3
> BULLETIN TYPE: Flight Standards Handbook Bulletin for General
Aviation
> (HBGA)
> BULLETIN NUMBER: HBGA 99-13
> BULLETIN TITLE: Operations over Densely Populated Areas,
Experimental,
> Amateur-Built Aircraft < snip
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stops |
>
>Anyone install adjustable aileron stops (in an -8) on the fwd side of the
>spar carry through? Other locations? What I'm thinking about is pretty
>much like other planes I've seen using an adjustable jack bolt with a flat
>head. The flat head of the bolt is what the side of the control column
>bumps against to set the aileron travel. I don't care for the suggested
>stops installed on the hinge attachment. Any comments or better ideas...
>
>Bryan Jones
>-8 ready for inspection -
>after aileron stops!
>Pearland, Texas
Bryan,
I have no aileron stops on my airplane. It passed inspection after the FAA
safety inspector verified the ailerons could not go "overcenter" on the
bellcrank and jam. The geometry of the pushrods are self limiting in this
regard. If your inspector insists on them, then so be it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
88 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>Yesterday was the first engine start for N417G. The Aerosport O-320 purred
>like a kitten. I have three quick questions for those more experienced
>than
>I:
>
>1) How long does it take to get a cylinder head temperature reading?
I have a spark plug gasket type CHT probe (yes, admittedly not the most
accurate) that shows me a reading after a few minuts. Give it some time.
It's not a critical instrument from a safety standpoint anyway. Go fly that
thing! ;)
>
>2) When I retard the throttle all the way, the engine quits. I assume
>that
>I need to adjust the throttle stop. What RPM works best? Is the throttle
>stop screw the right one to adjust? Is 400 RPM to 600 RPM the right range?
Wood prop or metal? A too slow idle with a wood prop could lead to the
engine quiting on you with the throttle closed when you really don't want it
to. My Sensenich (metal) O-360 has a closed ground idle speed of about
700rpm which is plenty slow for me. Any faster than that, and you'll be
riding the brakes a lot.
>
>3) At what RPM does your engine draw full vacuum? Does it do it at idle?
>I suspect that I have a problem with my vacuum gauge but I'm going to
>double
>check that I didn't plump the vacuum pump backwards.
It's easy to plumb the things backwards. I get about 4.5" at cruise power
settings but it is just a wee bit under 4.0" at idle. This is with a brand
new pump, installed just last month. It tends to drop quite a bit when the
engine is heat soaked which has me wondering if my pump is getting cooked
and needs a blast tube off the plenum. Hmm.
>
>Thanks for the answers to my stupid questions. Airplane is about ready to
>go. FAA out next week, but the test pilot needs a little more training.
Get some dual in an RV, Citabria, Pitt's, etc. Then go have the most awe
inspiring flight of your life in your RV!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flight over densely populated areas |
That's right. Our Class C airport is the 2nd busiest airport in the State,
out side on O'Hare. We just had a fully FAA approved RV6 test flown
successfully. It was a big help and comfort to my friend as we have a
staffed fire department, 10,000 runways, and EAA personnel in the FAA tower.
Worked without a hitch.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 4:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: flight over densely populated areas
>
> Sam, I know this is directed toward you but I can't help myself but to
jump
> in here. Since the new FAA Order 8130.2D (Airworthiness Certification)
came
> out the bulletin you mentioned is no longer needed. It is still there but
> we don't use it any more. The new Order, under the Operating Limitations
> section for Amateur Builts gives authorization for flights over densely
> populated areas but, as usual, by a backhanded method. It states that
> flights over densely populated areas are not authorized unless directed to
> do so by ATC , or unless sufficient altitude is maintained to effect a
safe
> emergency landing in the event of engine failure, without hazard to people
> or property on the ground. In other words, use common sense and always
keep
> an emergency landing spot in sight. Which is no different than what any
> pilot should be doing anyways.
>
> As far as test flight areas go, the order directs us to FAR 91.305, which
is
> very clear. It states that "No person may flight test an aircraft except
> over open water, or sparsely populated areas, having light air traffic."
> Other than that it is up to negotiations between you and your local FAA
rep.
>
> Mike Robertson
> "Das Fed"
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: flight over densely populated areas
> >Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 14:26:14 EDT
> >
> >
> >Sam, I am probably confused here, (not unusual) but this bulletin would
> >seem
> >to preclude assembling and test flying your experimental at an airport in
a
> >congested area, South Florida, for example, at least until "the operator
> >has
> >determined.....etc" Does this mean that we have to haul the a/c to a
rural
> >area airport initially?
> >Andy Johnson, wings almost, fuse kit in the shop.
> >
> >
> > >>>Larry Rush wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP A/C
> >DAR,
> > > and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our
> >Airworthiness
> > > Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is
this
> > > true??? Surely not!
> >
> >
> >Not true. Please reference the following document from the FAA.
> >Hopefully your friend will do his homework before he inspects too many
> >planes.... :-)
> >
> >Sam Buchanan
> >"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaaay.net/~sbuc/journal
> >
> >
> >ORDER: 8700.1
> >APPENDIX: 3
> >BULLETIN TYPE: Flight Standards Handbook Bulletin for General
> >Aviation
> >(HBGA)
> >BULLETIN NUMBER: HBGA 99-13
> >BULLETIN TITLE: Operations over Densely Populated Areas,
> >Experimental,
> >Amateur-Built Aircraft < snip
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | EAA Northwest Fly-in |
While I know this may be a bit early I am planning on going to the fly-in in
Arlington this year and was wondering how many of you are planning on going
and if there is a common place where everyone meets. I am going to be there
on Friday and Saturday.
This is going to be on my own and not on the FAA time. I am bringing my
wife to convince her another RV would be a good investment. Although I
think I will have to bribe...er....buy her a few things first.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Hoping...fingers crossed....to have first flight before then
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flight over densely populated areas |
CORRECTED TEXT
> That's right. Our Class C airport is the 2nd busiest airport in the State,
> out side of O'Hare. We just had a fully FAA approved RV6 test flown
> successfully. It was a big help and comfort to my friend as we have a
> staffed fire department, 10,000 foot runways, and EAA personnel in the FAA
tower.
> Worked without a hitch.
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 4:06 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: flight over densely populated areas
>
>
> >
> > Sam, I know this is directed toward you but I can't help myself but to
> jump
> > in here. Since the new FAA Order 8130.2D (Airworthiness Certification)
> came
> > out the bulletin you mentioned is no longer needed. It is still there
but
> > we don't use it any more. The new Order, under the Operating
Limitations
> > section for Amateur Builts gives authorization for flights over densely
> > populated areas but, as usual, by a backhanded method. It states that
> > flights over densely populated areas are not authorized unless directed
to
> > do so by ATC , or unless sufficient altitude is maintained to effect a
> safe
> > emergency landing in the event of engine failure, without hazard to
people
> > or property on the ground. In other words, use common sense and always
> keep
> > an emergency landing spot in sight. Which is no different than what any
> > pilot should be doing anyways.
> >
> > As far as test flight areas go, the order directs us to FAR 91.305,
which
> is
> > very clear. It states that "No person may flight test an aircraft
except
> > over open water, or sparsely populated areas, having light air traffic."
> > Other than that it is up to negotiations between you and your local FAA
> rep.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > "Das Fed"
> > RV-8A
> >
> >
> > >From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: flight over densely populated areas
> > >Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 14:26:14 EDT
> > >
> > >
> > >Sam, I am probably confused here, (not unusual) but this bulletin would
> > >seem
> > >to preclude assembling and test flying your experimental at an airport
in
> a
> > >congested area, South Florida, for example, at least until "the
operator
> > >has
> > >determined.....etc" Does this mean that we have to haul the a/c to a
> rural
> > >area airport initially?
> > >Andy Johnson, wings almost, fuse kit in the shop.
> > >
> > >
> > > >>>Larry Rush wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I talked to a DAR friend of mine who is just starting as a FAA EXP
A/C
> > >DAR,
> > > > and he mentioned a Part 91 reg stating that AFTER we get our
> > >Airworthiness
> > > > Cert we are still not legal to fly over heavily populated areas. Is
> this
> > > > true??? Surely not!
> > >
> > >
> > >Not true. Please reference the following document from the FAA.
> > >Hopefully your friend will do his homework before he inspects too many
> > >planes.... :-)
May 04, 2000 - May 10, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-il