RV-Archive.digest.vol-in
May 15, 2000 - May 22, 2000
There is a fellow out at our airport (Sandpoint, ID) that is finishing up
a Glasair. He plans to do the first flight himself and he is a low time
pilot. I don't know if Stoddard-Hamilton had a transition training
program, but I guess that is a moot point now.
He asked me if he could get some stick time in my RV 6A to prepare him for
it. While I'm glad to do this, I'm not sure how relevant it is. Is there
anybody on this list that has flown both RV' s and Glasairs? I don't know
their model numbers, but this is the small two place fixed tricycle gear
model. Looks like a fat little RV.
Let me know how similar they are and whether stick time in my plane would
do him any good, for his sake. Thanks.
Scott Sawby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing, respirators, etc. |
>
Hey Ed, saw you down at Sun-n-Fun working with the english wheel. Gonna
make an aluminum cowl for your RV4?
Ed Wischmeyer wrote:
>
> >...and scribe a number on the cover and bay
>
> Hmm. I was taught never, but never to scribe aluminum. You can go
> through the alclad and let corrosion get a start, but more importantly,
> that scribe is a big fatigue crack that you just started.
I agree. I was surprised to see that my Phlogiston wing spars had a
serial number engraved in the metal with a vibratory engraver.....
> > Next I went and bought a cheap respirator and started cleaning with
> > MEK and course scotch bright pads.
>
> Hopefully this was a forced air breathing device. Many of the passive
> respirators won't work on some of the mean chemicals we use. Don't know
> about MEK specifically, but I wouldn't trust anything that didn't have
> forced air. Anybody got the straight scoop on this?
>
I have a beard. Respirators don't work with a beard. A hobby air style
is probably my best bet. I would suggest that we use acetone for cleaning.
The fact that it is used in cosmetics (nail polish and remover) should be a
big clue that it is relative safe. I have had the Environmental Health
department at the University of Washington verify this. MEK is a nasty
health hazard as are many of the solvents and thinners we use. I also
suggest that you position a fan beside your work station to blow the fumes
away from your face if you are doing something like cleaning your paint gun
after using it. I can spend a half an hour with my nose right down in the
solvent can cleaning up my paint gun. Using a fan, and a respirator with the
proper filter for the chemical you are using will do a lot to protect your
health.
Dave Burton
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | #80620 flight update |
Folks,
Well the time is up to 5 hours, and here are some observations.
1. The oil door is coming up at the corner. I used a one lever flush latch in
the center. I am thinking about going back to the twofastners in the corners.
2. There is a droning sound that I can not place. Sounds like a twin engine
plane out of sync. Could be the slope panel by the exhaust.
3. If you do not have a lot of tail wheel time or complex time. GET SOME
!!!!! This aeroplane is NOT a Cessna 150!!!!!!!
4. Print up a full set of checklists.
5. All the numbers follow Vans data. 24-24 gives 180mph (no fairings).
More later.
Ed Storo RV-8 5hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com> |
| Subject: | Need platenut advice (long-ish) |
Hi Scott,
Let me take a stab at answering question #5 (re-doing the top skin) and then I'll
touch on
some of the other questions. I actually messed up two top skins, so don't feel
like you're the
lone ranger on this one. The method that finally worked for me was to removed
the top skin,
then place the shiny new skin in place and tape it down with duct tape. Then,
using a 12"
#40 drill bit, backdrill though the platenut holes, starting at the top center
and working down
and out. Put a cleco in through each hole (I think you can do this with a #40
cleco through
the back of the platenut) to hold down the skin after you drill each hole. Once
you have a
pilot hole through each platenut, then you can stepdrill the holes to the correct
size, starting
from the top/center. If you always start at the top/center and work down you shouldn't
end
up with puckers. I'm quite pleased with mine --- finally.
As for the hinge showing in the front of the top skin, it's difficult to know exactly
where to
trim until you get your cowling on. So, with your new top skin, be conservative
(don't trim it
back much), but try to keep a straight, true edge. Then once you start fitting
your cowling on
you can fuss with one or both of them.
As for the firewall and instrument panel bend/movement. My advise it to just press
on --- it
doesn't make a hill of beans difference.
Good luck!
Clay Smith, waiting for a hanger & fiberglassing the wheel/leg intersections
RV-4, N9X
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder/tailwheel springs |
Laird:
Personal preference. I tried it loose, finally ended up with no slack at
all. Gave the most positive feel, maximum tailwheel deflection for tight
turns. One of the things you can experiment with during the test phase.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 7:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder/tailwheel springs
>
> Hi all,
>
> Quick question.
>
> How tight or loose should the tailwheel chains/springs be rigged?
>
> TIA,
>
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
What sorts of fuel pressures are those with the Airflow Performance boost
pump seeing?
thanks,
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: #80620 flight update |
Ed,
Why are you going back to the two fasteners on the corners on the oil door?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O.A.T. Probe Location |
Glenn:
On my RV-4 I installed my E.I. temperature probe on the fuselage side near
the NACA vent. I would not recommend this location (or in the NACA vent for
that matter). Mine seems to read consistently high (over 10 degrees) at
this location, presumably because of higher interior temps and prop wash.
Interior insulation around the probe would probably help a little. Best
solution is to mount it out on the wing, in the shade, in undisturbed air,
near the bellcrank access covers, which is where I'm putting it on my RV-6.
Routed the wire behind the fuel tank, forward of the spar.
Should work a lot better. Also using the MicroEncoder temp probe this time.
Ask them for extra wire if you're going to put it out on the wing.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 8:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: O.A.T. Probe Location
>
> Hi. I would like to install my O.A.T. probe in the NACA air intake in
> the side of my RV-6. The probe is 5/8" deep. How far back in the air
> intake can I put it and still be assured that it's hitting oncoming
> air? The instrument is by Electronics International. I'd like to have
> it as flush as possible so that it is not sticking out the side of the
> aircraft.
>
> Thanks.
> - Glenn Gordon
>
> "You can't make footprints in the sands of time if you're sitting on
> your butt. And who wants to make butt-prints in the sands of time?"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Wing Spar ooops |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing, respirators, etc. |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com> |
| Subject: | Starter & Carberator Nuts |
Listers,
I'm helping my father build his RV-4. He has a carburetor and starter, but not
the nuts and
washers that attach them to the engine. I'm puzzled. These bolts or studs on
the engine have
a coarser thread than the typical airframe AN bolts. I don't see anything in the
aircraft
standards handbook to correspond to these threads. Can someone enlighten me?
What is
the callout for these nuts? I assume they will be standard nuts with lock washers.
Also, the engine has only 3 studs for the starter. Am I missing a stud or do
I use a bolt for
the 4th hole? If I'm missing a stud, what is the callout for the stud?
Thanks.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X almost finished & helping ole' dad with his -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder/tailwheel springs |
In a message dated 5/15/00 4:58:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
<< How tight or loose should the tailwheel chains/springs be rigged?
>>
Laird, Mine work best with no slack, no tension.
Fred LaForge RV-4 135 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: #80620 flight update |
>
>
>Folks,
>Well the time is up to 5 hours, and here are some observations.
>1. The oil door is coming up at the corner. I used a one lever flush latch
>in
>the center. I am thinking about going back to the twofastners in the
>corners.
Man, I wish you could have seen my posts about this problem earlier. Same
problem here. A Hartwell latch would not keep it from puckering up in
flight. I installed the corner latches per plans and it stays shut now with
no distortion in flight. I now have a three latch oil door. Larry Pardue
gets quite a kick out of it. Huh, Larry? ;)
>2. There is a droning sound that I can not place. Sounds like a twin engine
>plane out of sync. Could be the slope panel by the exhaust.
It's most likely the floor under your heels oil canning. The exhaust note
changes tone when I lift my feet off the floor. I plan to rivet a stiffener
across this area, on the bottom side of course, which will be hidden by the
exhaust ramp.
>3. If you do not have a lot of tail wheel time or complex time. GET SOME
>!!!!! This aeroplane is NOT a Cessna 150!!!!!!!
Absolutely! Or, a full checkout in an RV8 with dual controls in the back.
There's only one out there that I know of with a CFI owner: Jeff Ludwig in
Jacksonville Florida.
>4. Print up a full set of checklists.
Good idea, or at the very least, a standard fixed wing, single engine
checklist to cover the major stuff. (Gas, belts, runup, clear runway, etc)
>5. All the numbers follow Vans data. 24-24 gives 180mph (no fairings).
Sounds VERY familiar. Fully faired with O-360/Sensenich, my plane is now at
200-205 range. You'll be amazed at what those fairings will do for you.
Have fun, Ed! Keep it high and close to home for a while.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
89 hrs in five months of RV grinnin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 QB Fuel tank questions |
Listers,
While installing the right wing fuel sender in a QB fuel tank I see that
the platenuts for, and on, the access plate are not sealed. Won't the
fuel wick up the threads of the screws and escape? The video, which
assumes the builder is building the tank, seems to show the platenuts
smeared with proseal. Do these platenuts need to be smeared over? I
don't have any proseal, QB remember, but do have aviation form-a-gasket
which brags on the can "impervious to high octane gasoline". Would that
be OK?
Also when I bent up the sender float according to the drawing (right
wing) it seems to come out a mirror image. Definitely won't work like
that!
Jim Bean
RV8 QB right wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Fuselage Fuel Line |
In a message dated 5/15/00 5:46:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
KBoatri144(at)aol.com writes:
<< How much rudder pedal travel do you need at the bottom of the suspended
rudder pedals in an RV-6? >>
Check the archives. I believe that I posted on this subject several years
back.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: canopy cover |
Just out of curiosity, for those that also have this cover, has anyone found
a way to keep the lower edges of the cover snug against the fuselage? When
the wind picks up the edges beat the heck out of the side of the airframe.
I thought about sewing some bungee elastic into a hem along the side, but I
thought I'd see if anyone has beaten this yet.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
> 5 years ago I won a canopy cover at the RV banquet at OSH from George and
> Becki Orndorff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starter & Carberator Nuts |
> I'm helping my father build his RV-4. He has a carburetor and starter,
but not the nuts and
> washers that attach them to the engine. I'm puzzled. These bolts or
studs on the engine have
> a coarser thread than the typical airframe AN bolts. I don't see anything
in the aircraft
> standards handbook to correspond to these threads. Can someone enlighten
me? What is
> the callout for these nuts? I assume they will be standard nuts with lock
washers.
>
> Also, the engine has only 3 studs for the starter. Am I missing a stud
or do I use a bolt for
> the 4th hole? If I'm missing a stud, what is the callout for the stud?
Clay,
As crude as it seems what you need are Grade 8 hardware store bolts & nuts.
If you have a Pep Boys auto store near you they have a great selection that
is even cad plated -- it looks just like the AN stuff. And yes, the starter
only has 3 studs, a bolt goes in the fourth hole.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, bogged down in baffling
www.RV-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Found thius novel approach |
> "One thing that I discovered while building my Emeraude. Don't ever tell a
> vendor that you are building a plane. Many of them will refuse to sell you
> parts, materials, or service.
[snip]
One lister a while back had what I thought was the best answer: "It's for my
RV!"
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 QB Fuel tank questions |
In a message dated 5/15/00 9:19:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jim-bean(at)att.net
writes:
<< While installing the right wing fuel sender in a QB fuel tank I see that
the platenuts for, and on, the access plate are not sealed. Won't the
fuel wick up the threads of the screws and escape? The video, which
assumes the builder is building the tank, seems to show the platenuts
smeared with proseal. Do these platenuts need to be smeared over? I
don't have any proseal, QB remember, but do have aviation form-a-gasket
which brags on the can "impervious to high octane gasoline". Would that
be OK? >>
I found it not to work. They started seeping after a few months. I ended up
removing the screws one at a time, cleaning the area with MEK and installing
O-ring equipped 8-32 X .500 Self-Sealing Pan Head Screws. APM-Hexseal makes
them. Check the Yeller Pages for number.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starter & Carberator Nuts |
The parts catalog -PC-203-2 that I ordered from Andy at BUILDERS
BOOKSTORE has a call out for the starter bolt-- 5/16-18 x 1-5/32 long,hex.
hd. The 3 studs use washer,5/16 plain then washer,5/16 lock,internal teeth
thrn nut,5/16-18 plain.
The carb is attached per Lycoming parts catalog with - washer5/16 plain
,nut 5/16-18 and then a locknut 5/16 palnut . Thats what the catalog calls
for ,Two nuts on the carb one plane and one locknut. hope this helps.
Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O.A.T. Probe Location |
> Hi. I would like to install my O.A.T. probe in the NACA air intake in
> the side of my RV-6. The probe is 5/8" deep. How far back in the air
> intake can I put it and still be assured that it's hitting oncoming
> air? The instrument is by Electronics International. I'd like to have
> it as flush as possible so that it is not sticking out the side of the
> aircraft.
I'll confirm the opinion of others on this post. I have my OAT probe in
the NACA inlet and it also reads high.
Scott Sawby RV-6A 341SS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | #80620 flight update (Hartwell Latch) |
>
> >Man, I wish you could have seen my posts about this problem earlier. Same
> >problem here. A Hartwell latch would not keep it from puckering up in
> >flight. I installed the corner latches per plans and it stays shut now with
> >no distortion in flight. I now have a three latch oil door. Larry Pardue
> >gets quite a kick out of it. Huh, Larry? ;)
> >
Do you think a fiberglass rib type stiffener bonded to the back of the oil door
might help? I am at this point and would really like the hartwell latch if at
all possible.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
Maybe he should
> enlist an experienced pilot to make the first flight and then get a few
rides
> with him/her before flying it solo.
This, unfortunately, is against the FAA's rule of only one person aboard
during test flying. I certainly wouldn't condemn anyone for breaking the
rules when one's survival is clearly an issue; but during my test flying, I
found that those pilots qualified to do the test flying usually have their
careers tied up in aviation and are unwilling to break the rules.
Scott Sawby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Installing Vision Micro fuel level senders in finished tanks |
Is it possible to install the vision microsystem senders inside an already
finished RV-4 tank?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | #80620 flight update |
I had a drumming sound also, turned out to be the rear of the canopy skirt.
I added a small strip of weather strip around the rear 1/3 of the skirt.
That took care of that problem. I also have a problem with the oil door
lifting and I used the two latches in the corners. I also see a little
lifting along the back edge of the cowling where the 2-3" gap is in the
attach hinge. Karl 711KN RV-8 70 plus hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: ERSF2B(at)aol.com [SMTP:ERSF2B(at)aol.com]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 09:29
Subject: RV-List: #80620 flight update
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
> There is a fellow out at our airport (Sandpoint, ID) that is finishing up
> a Glasair. He plans to do the first flight himself and he is a low time
> pilot. I don't know if Stoddard-Hamilton had a transition training
> program, but I guess that is a moot point now.
>
> He asked me if he could get some stick time in my RV 6A to prepare him for
> it. While I'm glad to do this, I'm not sure how relevant it is. Is there
> anybody on this list that has flown both RV' s and Glasairs? I don't know
> their model numbers, but this is the small two place fixed tricycle gear
> model. Looks like a fat little RV.
>
> Let me know how similar they are and whether stick time in my plane would
> do him any good, for his sake. Thanks.
Call Arturo Weiss at the EAA (920 426-4800) and ask about the Flight
Advisor program. He'll be able to help find somebody qualified to work
with the Glasair builder. If he's low time, chances are that he'll need
a bunch of handholding to do the first flight safely. It's doable, just
takes some preparation.
Tell 'em I sent you
Ed Wischmeyer
ATP/CFII
EAA Flight Advisor, Seattle
--
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O.A.T. Probe Location |
pat_hatch wrote:
>
> Glenn:
>
> On my RV-4 I installed my E.I. temperature probe on the fuselage side near
> the NACA vent. I would not recommend this location (or in the NACA vent for
> that matter). Mine seems to read consistently high (over 10 degrees) at
> this location,
I placed mine in the wing root. Seems to work pretty good there.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
I will be buying seats for my RV6 shortly. Looking at D.J. and Orndoff
seats.
Orndoff seats are lower priced but need to be made for the exact height
of the occupant. If you order them to accommodate a six footer then you
need a permanent booster cushion on top of the seat for smaller
occupants. With that said is this a problem? Any comments about these
two seat designs? Any other manufacturer to consider?
Regards Peter (Toronto Canada)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Starter & Carberator Nuts |
You guessed it right.
Those are NC (course) threads and will require a course threaded nut and
an internal star lockwasher (one time use only) I used grade 8 hardware
bolts.
Yes, the starter will need a bolt. Also a grade 8 course thread.
Why did Lyc. do this?
mailsorter-101-10.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-f/ms.dwm.v7+dul2)
From: Clay Smith <clayfly(at)libertybay.com>
Subject: RV-List: Starter & Carberator Nuts
Date: 15 May 100 22:32:50 -0500
Listers,
I'm helping my father build his RV-4. He has a carburetor and starter, but not
the nuts and
washers that attach them to the engine. I'm puzzled. These bolts or studs on
the engine have
a coarser thread than the typical airframe AN bolts. I don't see anything in the
aircraft
standards handbook to correspond to these threads. Can someone enlighten me?
What is
the callout for these nuts? I assume they will be standard nuts with lock washers.
Also, the engine has only 3 studs for the starter. Am I missing a stud or do
I use a bolt for
the 4th hole? If I'm missing a stud, what is the callout for the stud?
Thanks.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X almost finished & helping ole' dad with his -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randy griffin" <skydog(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Threads for aircraft bolts |
>
>Hi all,
>
>I need to tap some thread to attach my roll-over bar (RV-6, tip-up) to
>my fuselage, and also some for attaching the lift struts.
>
>According to Will Cretsinger's notes and the plans, I need to tap 10-32,
>5/16 x 18, and 8-32 threads in various holes.
>
>I'm almost completely ignorant about threads and taps and suchlike...
>
>Is there any special kind of tap-and-die set that I need? Do I need (God
>forfend) "aviation-quality" taps (Avery and Cleaveland don't seem to
>sell any), or can I just go down to my local hardware store and buy a
>set there? If so, what do I ask for? Are these numbers "Whitworth"? Or
>"BS"? Or something else? Are tap-and-die sets like other tools (i.e.
>quality costs), or can I safely buy the cheapest that Taiwanese
>manufacturing can produce?
>
>Frank, the information about taps could literally fill a book.You are not looking
for "aircraft" quality, you are looking for "machine industry" quality taps, and
yes, like everything else in life you get what you pay for. If you choose to go
down
to the local hardware store, the cheap brand will probably be carbon steel (not
very
desireable)these break much easier and get dull much too rapidly (once again leading
to breakage). You really want high-speed steel, two flute, plug taps. If "H" limits
are given, you want H-3 (each H # is how many half thousands oversize it wil cut,
H-3's cut .0015" over). 5/16 - 18's are national course (NC)and the hole that you
drill is with a letter "F" drill. #10-32's are national fine (NF), and you will
drill
with a #21 drill. #8-32's are NC, and you drill with a #29 drill.Use lubrication,
and don't forget to smile because this is the really fun stuff.
Randy Griffin
#80925
RV-8 Turtle Build
N925RG (reserved)
Fuse Stuff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Vision Micro fuel level senders in finished |
tanks
No. The sender must pass through holes cut in the ribs inside the tank. It
is positioned in the tank lying from the aft inboard lower corner to the aft
outboard upper corner.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> Is it possible to install the vision microsystem senders inside an already
> finished RV-4 tank?
________________________________________________________________________________
Folks,
1. The oil door has two stiffners on it, and the lift is definitly speed
related. It is the air coming from the inside out that is doing the lift.
2. The droning sound comes and goes with bank. I.e. when it starts a bank to
one side will stop it, but comes again in a few minuttes. Will try the skirt
and foam trick.
3. Frank Hoover and Steve Freeman have put a anti-suck device on Franks
aeroplane. On the second or third upright tube on the canopy frame, Steve put
a tounge that ir screwed in three places. The tounge sticks down, and when
the canopy closes it will run into an angle that is fastned to the canopy
rail mounting surface. ( not the rail it self.) This holds the canopy frame
from bowing out. It has made a definite change in noise,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing Vision Micro fuel level senders in finished |
tanks
No. The capacitance senders have to be installed through holes in the ribs
inside the tank. The senders are positioned from the aft lower inboard rib to
the aft upper outboard corner of the tank. I installed the Vision
Microsystems fuel quantity system in my airplane and wouldn't choose do it
again on a bet. It requires a good engineer as well as a good craftsman;
i.e., the installation requires special weldments of the builder's own
design. I feel rather pleased with the installation but I'm worried that when
I finally fill the tanks and they leak around the senders, I'm not going to be
able to repair them. The kit is designed for simpler senders; I'd suggest
sticking with them. The Vision Microsystems senders were clearly designed
originally for installation in Glasair, Lancair, and other composite
airplanes.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> Is it possible to install the vision microsystem senders inside an already
> finished RV-4 tank?
>
> Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder/tailwheel springs |
Pat,
Just the information I was looking for. Thanks much.
Happy flying,
Laird
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, May 15, 2000 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder/tailwheel springs
Laird:
Personal preference. I tried it loose, finally ended up with no slack at
all. Gave the most positive feel, maximum tailwheel deflection for tight
turns. One of the things you can experiment with during the test phase.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 7:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder/tailwheel springs
>
> Hi all,
>
> Quick question.
>
> How tight or loose should the tailwheel chains/springs be rigged?
>
> TIA,
>
> Laird RV-6
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Top Skin Fitting/assembly |
Reposted for search engine (future search) was "Need platenut advice"
clayfly(at)libertybay.com on 05/15/2000 11:00:30 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: re: RV-List: Need platenut advice (long-ish)
Hi Scott,
Let me take a stab at answering question #5 (re-doing the top skin) and then
I'll touch on
some of the other questions. I actually messed up two top skins, so don't feel
like you're the
lone ranger on this one. The method that finally worked for me was to removed
the top skin,
then place the shiny new skin in place and tape it down with duct tape. Then,
using a 12"
#40 drill bit, backdrill though the platenut holes, starting at the top center
and working down
and out. Put a cleco in through each hole (I think you can do this with a #40
cleco through
the back of the platenut) to hold down the skin after you drill each hole. Once
you have a
pilot hole through each platenut, then you can stepdrill the holes to the
correct size, starting
from the top/center. If you always start at the top/center and work down you
shouldn't end
up with puckers. I'm quite pleased with mine --- finally.
As for the hinge showing in the front of the top skin, it's difficult to know
exactly where to
trim until you get your cowling on. So, with your new top skin, be conservative
(don't trim it
back much), but try to keep a straight, true edge. Then once you start fitting
your cowling on
you can fuss with one or both of them.
As for the firewall and instrument panel bend/movement. My advise it to just
press on --- it
doesn't make a hill of beans difference.
Good luck!
Clay Smith, waiting for a hanger & fiberglassing the wheel/leg intersections
RV-4, N9X
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: #80620 flight update (Hartwell Latch) |
>
>
> >
> > >Man, I wish you could have seen my posts about this problem earlier.
>Same
> > >problem here. A Hartwell latch would not keep it from puckering up in
> > >flight. I installed the corner latches per plans and it stays shut now
>with
> > >no distortion in flight. I now have a three latch oil door. Larry
>Pardue
> > >gets quite a kick out of it. Huh, Larry? ;)
> > >
>
>Do you think a fiberglass rib type stiffener bonded to the back of the oil
>door
>might help? I am at this point and would really like the hartwell latch if
>at
>all possible.
>
>-Glenn Gordon
Yes, it would help keep the door more rigid in place. Another option would
be to laminate a layer of carbon fiber on the entire inside surface of the
door. However, the actual latching hook doesn't have much to grab onto with
the shape of the cutout in the cowl. I had to grind off some of the carbon
prepreg laminate so the latch would close properly. It just didn't work out
as slick as I had hoped. It's hard to describe in detail, but the geometry
of the latch and the area it has to latch into (or under in this case) isn't
very suitable for the application. For an old style, single laminate cowl
that is thinner around the door opening, it would be an easier install.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> I will be buying seats for my RV6 shortly. Looking at D.J. and Orndoff
> seats.
> Any other manufacturer to consider?
I found that the best seat made for RV's is made by Oregon Aero. Your
results may vary.
They have specific seats for the RV4, RV6, and RV8. Each one has a curving
contours and real lumbar support. This company is not in the same league as
D.J. and Orndoff. They are a military supply and design house. They engineer
seats for commercial applications as compared to the family type operations
of D.J.and Orndoff. Nothing wrong with them, they're just not trying to make
the same product. Theirs are more like slabs of foam cut to the proper size
and glued together. Their big advantage is price and the fact that they come
covered in whatever fabric you desire. The finished product is top quality
but not in the same class as Oregon Aero seats. You have to see them to
understand. Oregon's downside is they are very expensive and you have to get
them covered locally. Oregon Aero seats have been tested by the US military
to flights over twenty hours. They are building seats for the new F-22.
In the past I have seen posts on this list slamming Oregon Aero seats as too
heavy but I call foul as no one has ever posted their weight. I have a set
and I can assure you that they are not heavier than any other similar sized
hunk of foam. Any one with a seat that is substantially lighter is going
thin on their foam or using a very low grade of foam (there are many types
and densities of foam). Oregon Aero seats are thick because they are
designed to be comfortable for very long flights. Their true downside is
their cost, $500 USD to do a RV6. Mine totaled $900 Canadian with exchange,
taxes, and shipping. Ouch! but I don't regret it.
See them half way down the page at
http://www.oregonaero.com/page13.htm
Click "About Us" on the top left to learn more.
There is another seat available for the tandems that looks very interesting
out of Australia. It was offered by our famous world traveler Jon Johanson.
I couldn't find the link that I used to have and I haven't seen any thing on
his seats for about a year. Jon's really busy today but I'm sure you can run
into him at Oshkosh this year if you want more info. His seats have been
world tested on flights well over ten hours. They must be good!
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Tue, 16 May 2000 09:52:28.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Starter & Carberator Nuts |
05/16/2000 09:59:47 AM
I just replaced the starter on the O320 on my Cherokee, it has three studs
and a bolt in the forward Captain's (pilots) side position.
Scott
Also, the engine has only 3 studs for the starter. Am I missing a stud
or do I use a bolt for
the 4th hole? If I'm missing a stud, what is the callout for the stud?
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X almost finished & helping ole' dad with his -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | flight test area. |
>As far as test flight areas go, the order directs us to FAR 91.305, which is
>very clear. It states that "No person may flight test an aircraft except
>over open water, or sparsely populated areas, having light air traffic."
>Other than that it is up to negotiations between you and your local FAA rep.
One thing to ask of your examiner is a large test area. Some of the
inspectors are used to inspecting Flybabys and other rather slow aircraft.
Stress the speed of these aircraft and that the "25 miles from home
airport" will result in you being in a turn most of your test flight time.
My examiner gave me north eastern Colorado for mine which was GREAT as it
gave me plenty of area without having to worry about going outside the
zone. I couldn't fly above Denver, of course, and there is a military
flight area north I had to avoid. Otherwise, I had the great open plains of
Colorado to fly above. One great open landing field. I got this without
even asking for it. Drag out the maps and explain things to him; they can
be reasonable.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel labeling |
>Does anyone know if dry transfer lettering will accept a clearcoat
>spray?
I did it that way and it has suffered my flying abuse without any obvious
ill effects. I did several coats of clear over the letters as they seem to
repel the clear somewhat. But they look great (IMHO) and are taking what I
dish out.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield defroster for RV-8 |
>> >Anyone know of a good source for a windshield defroster kit for an RV-8?
RV-4: Never had the need for one. Started to fog up once on the ground, one
winter. Other than that.............
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O.A.T. Probe Location |
RV-4: My uEncoder probe sits under the right cheek fairing on the fuselage,
just forward of the panel bulkhead. It is in the "shade" of the cheek
fairing and out of the reach of the engine air. With the propwash going
relatively "down" at that point, it is also in the "shade" with regard to
engine air getting there (my theory). The temperature matches ATIS within a
degree, as well as the OAT gauges at the hanger. Maybe just lucky. The
under the wing area can pick up the reflected heat of a blacktop ramp, but
flying it would be OK.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: #80620 flight update |
>>1. The oil door is coming up at the corner. I used a one lever flush
latch in
>>the center.....
I have the standard old camlocks that came with the kit. They had the
"wings" on them and are easily snapped off. Yes, they do 'stick up' above
the smooth cowl, but are sure handy to whip open with my fuel tester/screw
driver. I laid several progressively smaller layers of fiberglass on the
door, how many I can't remember, to help avoid warping with heat and
movement with airflow. The door still fits flush and is tight in flight.
>>3. If you do not have a lot of tail wheel time or complex time. GET SOME
>>!!!!! This aeroplane is NOT a Cessna 150!!!!!!!
Absolutely. Staying current while building is a big problem, especially
near the end, when you need it the most but are trying to get the project
done. Stay current. Get some type or 'near type' time before testing yours.
>>4. Print up a full set of checklists.
I was used to my J-3 Cub. CIGARS, and all that. I wanted to be sure I
wasn't leaving anything out and made up a bunch of checklists for prestart,
preflight, cruise, descent, shutdown, and emergencies. I still use them,
but not so much the cruise, descent and shutdown ones. Helps me to remember
everything. When I have a passenger, if I think they would like to help, I
have them read me the checklist, acting as "second in command", which makes
them feel they are part of the "flight crew".
Keep us up-to-date...........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | -8 seat rib question |
DWG 23 shows two large holes to be cut into the right side F-814 & F-815
for the rear seat vent hose. Both holes are shown as 1 5/16". The
manual, however, indicates that the hole in F-815 should be 2 5/8".
Quite a discrepancy. Which is correct?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
floor ribs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | flight card test |
FLIGHT CARD
FLIGHT NUMBER 1 FUEL: FULL
TAKEOFF GROSS WEIGHT: ________ C.G. ______ IN.
LIMITATIONS: 10 knots wind
45 deg max AOB
30 deg max AOB below 1500 ft AGL
120 mph max speed
MANEUVERS
______1. Takeoff
_____ 2. Climb, 85 mph_____Check engine instruments
_____ 3. LT in climb, 30 deg AOB to climbing downwind
_____ 4. RT 30 deg AOB
_____ 5. LF 85 mph 10,000 ft._____ Check engine instruments
_____ 6. LT 30 deg AOB
_____ 7. LT 45 deg AOB
_____ 8. RT 30 deg AOB
_____ 9. RT 45 deg AOB
_____ 10. LF 70 mph
_____ 11. LF 60 mph_____ Check engine instruments
_____ 12. LT 30 deg AOB
_____ 13. RT 30 deg AOB
_____ 14. Stall, wings level
_____ 15. Stall, wings level
_____ 16. LF 85 mph 10 deg flaps
_____ 17. LT 30 deg AOB
_____ 18. LT 45 deg AOB
_____ 19. RT 30 deg AOB
_____ 20. RT 45 deg AOB
_____ 21. LF 70 mph
_____ 22. LF 60 mph
_____ 23. LT 30 deg AOB
_____ 24. RT 30 deg AOB
_____ 25. Stall 10 deg Flaps
_____ 26. LF 85 mph; retract flaps
_____ 27. LF 120 mph_____Check engine instruments
_____ 28. Descend 85 mph, 500 fpm
_____ 29. Downwind, 85 mph 10 deg flaps
_____ 30. Final 80 mph 10 deg flaps
_____ 31. Go-around, 85 mph, retract flaps
_____ 32. Downwind, 85 mph 10 deg flaps
_____ 33. Final, 80 mph, 10 deg flaps
_____ 34. Landing
This a test of posting a flight card. I don't think it will work, but how do
you know until you try?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
I'm looking for a little sage advice from all the engine mechanic gurus out
there. I'm having a problem with my vacuum system. At full throttle, I do
not get an indication of full vacuum on my gauge, but the AH and DG seem to
be responsive. The gauge does move up but not even to 3" of Hg. Since I
haven't flown yet and because of my taildragger configuration, I can't
really tell just by looking whether the AH and DG are getting the vacuum
they need.
Now I've already had a minor problem with the vacuum gauge prior to install.
I am using the UMA 1 1/4" vacuum gauge which has two ports in the back.
There is some interesting and conflicting information in the archives on how
to hook this instrument up. The ports are labeled "V" and "P". I've hooked
up the "P" to the back of the AH in the port labeled gauge. The "V" line
has been connected to a tee on the back of the AH in the line coming from
the filter. I used the instructions from Tony Bingelis in Firewall Forward.
All the parts in the system are new and the vacuum pump is a Stratus. There
doesn't seem to be a way to connect the vacuum pump up backwards. The pump
has two ports and the aft most port is labeled "out". The most forward
outlet is what I am using for vacuum.
What is the best way to determine if the vacuum pump is working correctly?
I really don't trust the vacuum gauge since I opened up the case to fix a
problem with it, so I've ordered a new one from Spruce.
Is there a problem with drawing the "v" line for the gauge from a tee in the
back of the instrument? Do I need to run this to the filter instead? Maybe
this is affecting the AH.
This problem is not necessarily keeping me from making my first flight as I
am waiting for the FAA to show up. But I'd like to correct it prior to
first flight if I can. An advice would be appreciated.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Fixing the bugs"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight test area. |
>snip<
>
>One thing to ask of your examiner is a large test area. Some of the
>inspectors are used to inspecting Flybabys and other rather slow aircraft.
>Stress the speed of these aircraft and that the "25 miles from home
>airport" will result in you being in a turn most of your test flight time.
>snip<
How true! My FAA inspector gave me most of the state of New Mexico to play
in. Exceptions: Class C, D and restricted airspace areas. That left LOTS
of small airports to go visit to keep me entertained while burning off 40
hours. Man, that "non-certified engine/prop" rule needs work. An O-360 with
Sensenich metal prop is hardly "experimental" in my not at all humble
opinion. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
89 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -8 seat rib question |
> DWG 23 shows two large holes to be cut into the right side F-814 & F-815
> for the rear seat vent hose. Both holes are shown as 1 5/16". The
> manual, however, indicates that the hole in F-815 should be 2 5/8".
> Quite a discrepancy. Which is correct?
Don't have my plane here to check, but just check the hole that is already
in the right hand fuse skin (F-823?). You are trying to match that hole
exactly.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500
www.RV-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | flight card test |
>FLIGHT CARD
>FLIGHT NUMBER 1 FUEL: FULL
>TAKEOFF GROSS WEIGHT: ________ C.G. ______ IN.
Great Scott, it worked!! Ok, now let me see what the others look like and
try to post them. I may do them in batches, ie, flights 1-5, etc.
This will give you some idea of what you may want your cards to look like.
LF= level flight; LT= left turn; RT= right turn; AOB= angle of bank.
How did I know what angle of bank? I had pinstripe tape on my canopy at eye
level that showed me: horizon at three point; horizon at level flight; 30
degrees bank; 45 degrees bank.
OK: I have testflown ONE brand new airplane, so, yes, I am a test pilot,
but do not play one on TV. I had my own opinions on how MY flight testing
was to be conducted, distilled from a lot of reading, research and
discussion with other pilots, some of which did do this for a living, and
it seemed to work out very well. I do not pretend to know all there is
about test flying aircraft. Those who have written the books, are teaching
the flight testing courses and are, in fact, test pilots, may have VERY
different opinions about how to go about this job. And that is great; that
is what this forum is for.
These are for reference only. Modify them however you see fit: I did. I
don't think one of my test cards, including the first one, made it through
the test period without being modified. (I had limited my first flight
speed to 100mph. HAHAHAhahahahaha. I got established in a high pattern,
shocked that the airplane was flying and had held together this long,
checking things out and noticed I was already screaming along at 120!)
There were flights I changed the card in the air. I will post the ones I
flew with.
If it would help, I could also post a short course on some things to think
about if your FIRST FLIGHT is coming up. Not that I know all that much, but
I have been through mine and a bunch of hours after and have had time to
look back and evaluate what I did. It may be of benefit. Others can add
their comments and may be a helpful archive addition.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
sticking my neck out, here...................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Problem |
>From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Vacuum Problem
>Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 13:07:02 -0500
>
>
>I'm looking for a little sage advice from all the engine mechanic gurus out
>there. I'm having a problem with my vacuum system. At full throttle, I do
>not get an indication of full vacuum on my gauge, but the AH and DG seem to
>be responsive. The gauge does move up but not even to 3" of Hg. Since I
>haven't flown yet and because of my taildragger configuration, I can't
>really tell just by looking whether the AH and DG are getting the vacuum
>they need.
>
>Now I've already had a minor problem with the vacuum gauge prior to
>install.
>I am using the UMA 1 1/4" vacuum gauge which has two ports in the back.
>There is some interesting and conflicting information in the archives on
>how
>to hook this instrument up. The ports are labeled "V" and "P". I've
>hooked
>up the "P" to the back of the AH in the port labeled gauge. The "V" line
>has been connected to a tee on the back of the AH in the line coming from
>the filter. I used the instructions from Tony Bingelis in Firewall
>Forward.
>
>All the parts in the system are new and the vacuum pump is a Stratus.
>There
>doesn't seem to be a way to connect the vacuum pump up backwards. The pump
>has two ports and the aft most port is labeled "out". The most forward
>outlet is what I am using for vacuum.
>
>What is the best way to determine if the vacuum pump is working correctly?
>I really don't trust the vacuum gauge since I opened up the case to fix a
>problem with it, so I've ordered a new one from Spruce.
>
>Is there a problem with drawing the "v" line for the gauge from a tee in
>the
>back of the instrument? Do I need to run this to the filter instead?
>Maybe
>this is affecting the AH.
>
>This problem is not necessarily keeping me from making my first flight as I
>am waiting for the FAA to show up. But I'd like to correct it prior to
>first flight if I can. An advice would be appreciated.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
>"Fixing the bugs"
Randy,
I had the same problem with low vacuum reading on the very same gauge you
have. It was due to using too small an I.D. tube from the vacuum regulator.
My regulator has a large inlet nipple, and TWO outlet nipples of a slightly
smaller diameter. I figured I could cap off one outlet and get by with one
tube, run up to a "T" fitting, then branched off to the DG and AI. WRONG!
Too much restriction in the system by doing it this way. I replumbed it
using both outlets, with rigid plastic tubing sized to slip over the outlets
snugly. The vacuum went up to 4.5" where it normally indicates at cruise
power. You have to provide enough air FLOW, not just vacuum.
I have the gauge "V" nipple hooked up the "gauge" port on the back of my DG
using a short length of tube. The "P" nipple was left OPEN to cabin
atmosphere as gauge reference. I haven't figured out a better place to hook
this up yet. I do believe you have the vacuum pump hooked up correctly, so
that should not be a problem. Do you have the regulator adjusted wide open?
That's where mine is, since dialing it in to vent off excess vacuum (which
is what they do) would drop my indicated vacuum to below 4". Check your
plumbing from the regulator and look for any kinks or hard bends that may be
collapsing the tubing under vacuum.
Hang in there!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
instrumentation technician, Intel Corp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AV8R" <jhth(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield defroster for RV-8 |
I have a lot of time in a 2 place Pitts with a bubble canopy flying in a
humid environment (Houston) and have never seen a tendency to fog either.
John Hall
RV-8QB
-----Original Message-----
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Windshield defroster for RV-8
>
>>> >Anyone know of a good source for a windshield defroster kit for an
RV-8?
>
>RV-4: Never had the need for one. Started to fog up once on the ground, one
>winter. Other than that.............
>
>Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Our Chapter had a professional pilot make the initial 5 hours and then with
the DuPage FSDO's blessing gave the builder some dual so the builder could
finish the testing.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glasair
>
>
> Maybe he should
> > enlist an experienced pilot to make the first flight and then get a few
> rides
> > with him/her before flying it solo.
>
> This, unfortunately, is against the FAA's rule of only one person aboard
> during test flying. I certainly wouldn't condemn anyone for breaking the
> rules when one's survival is clearly an issue; but during my test flying,
I
> found that those pilots qualified to do the test flying usually have their
> careers tied up in aviation and are unwilling to break the rules.
>
> Scott Sawby
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Electric priming install update... |
Howdy,
Many thanks to all the replies I received on and off the net on my questions
regarding electric priming.
For the archives, I just thought I might let everyone know that there is a
rather compelling reason for going with 1/8 inch copper tubing instead of
aluminum as suggested in Firewall Forward. Apparently several cracks have
developed in 1/8 inch aluminum tubing when attached directly to the engine even
with loops to relieve the stress. Consequently I will be installing copper for
all my priming needs.
- Jim Andrews
Austin, Texas
RV-8Aq ( fuse & finish )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: benedict memorial fund] |
THIS IS A COMMUNICATION I RECEIVED REGARDING SCHOLARSHIP FUNDS IN THE
NAME OF BILL AND JEREMY. I AM WAITING FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE
BOGARDIS FUND. I UNDERSTAND THAT IT IS AVIATION ORIENTED AND HELPS
CHILDREN AT RISK TO GET INTO AVIATION. I WILL RELAY MORE WHEN THE
INFORMATION IS SENT TO ME. I WILL DONATE TO THE BOGARDIS FUND IN THE
NAME OF BILL AND JEREMY.
ART GLASER
Ken Scott wrote:
> Art: Van asked me to send you the information on places people
> may contribute in memory of Bill and Jeremy. I hope this is what
> you need. If not contact me at 503-647-5117 and we will work it out
>
> ken scott
>
> The Jeremy & William Benedict Memorial Scholarship fund.
> Univ. of Portland Development Office
> 5000 N. Willamette
> Portland, OR 97203
>
> In Bill and/or Jeremys name to
> The George & Lillian Bogardus Memorial Trust Fund.
> R. Bourgois, Trust Secretary
> 7175 SW Beveland, #210
> Tigard 97223
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
I haven't investigated the subject, but I know a RV Pilot and his wife(also
a pilot) who both fly together during test phase. He says there is an
option in the paperwork for necessary crew during test phase. She monitors
guages ;
).
Again, I know nothing!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: Marian and Scott Sawby <mkr(at)netw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glasair
>
>
> Maybe he should
> > enlist an experienced pilot to make the first flight and then get a few
> rides
> > with him/her before flying it solo.
>
> This, unfortunately, is against the FAA's rule of only one person aboard
> during test flying. I certainly wouldn't condemn anyone for breaking the
> rules when one's survival is clearly an issue; but during my test flying,
I
> found that those pilots qualified to do the test flying usually have their
> careers tied up in aviation and are unwilling to break the rules.
>
> Scott Sawby
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: flight card test |
>
>
>I have offered to put Michael's flight test cards, and any other tips,
>tricks, or stories that he'd like to contribute, on a page in my web site
>for everyone to view and/or download. For those of you that remember, he has
>written some wonderful flight stories about his time with Suzie Q, plus I
>think done an excellent job with the science part of the program as well
>with the test cards. If you think this would be a useful web page please let
>Michael know.
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV-8, #80500
>www.rv-8.com
>Home Wing VAF
>
Great idea. If you post them, I'll add a link to my long list of
flight test links, available at:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric priming install update... |
Copper also work hardens. It work hardens even quicker than aluminum. Both
lines need to be well supported so they don't vibrate and break. I don't
believe that your switch to copper will reduce breakage. Might even increase
it. Inspect it well regardless of composition. Use an aviation flaring tool
that doesn't make concentric grip lines is imperative. That is where the
lines crack and break.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 4:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Electric priming install update...
>
>
> Howdy,
>
> Many thanks to all the replies I received on and off the net on my
questions
> regarding electric priming.
>
> For the archives, I just thought I might let everyone know that there is a
> rather compelling reason for going with 1/8 inch copper tubing instead of
> aluminum as suggested in Firewall Forward. Apparently several cracks have
> developed in 1/8 inch aluminum tubing when attached directly to the engine
even
> with loops to relieve the stress. Consequently I will be installing
copper for
> all my priming needs.
>
> - Jim Andrews
> Austin, Texas
> RV-8Aq ( fuse & finish )
> N89JA (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | hartwell latch on oil door |
Hi,
Is there anyone who has successfully installed the hartwell latches on
the oil door?
Did you use 1 or 2 latches?
How much additional reinforcing on the oil door was needed to keep it
from lifting?
I have the oil door hinged, bur I am holding off on latching it with
either Hartwell latches or camlock types until I make heads or tails of
this whole thing.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
Bryan,
I don't have RV experience doing this, but I have done it in a C-1 Katana
with a CFI along. We started out at 4000 AGL, slowed to 65 kts, went to
full power and climbed at 600fpm. At 4500 AGL, I pulled back the throttle,
counted 4 seconds (for the initial shock), pitched over for best glide at 71
kts and did a 360 degree turn to get back to the runway and lined up with
it. I then flared out of the descent and checked the altimeter. The best we
got doing this was 800 feet. I've used 850 every since as a trigger in the
back of my mind everytime I take off. I need to do it for a 172 also but
haven't yet.
Bill Christie, RV8A, wings, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Jones, Bryan D. <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 6:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Don't turn back
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
> Regarding landing straight ahead, I thought I'd see just how high one
would
> have to be to make the 180 back home if the engine quit. Not having
access
> to a high-dollar real simulator and not wanting to bend a real plane, I
> resorted to my reasonably realistic MS Flight Simulator. I have tried all
> kinds of options (speed, flaps, turn rate, split-S, etc...) to get the
plane
> back to the runway. I tried it in the 182 and the Extra. I never made it
> back from lower than about 700 or 750-feet. This surprised me - I thought
> 400 or 500-feet would be enough.
>
> Anyone have any RV experience related to the "turn back" performance?
>
> Bryan Jones
> -8 ready for inspection
> Pearland, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
In reading all 2,000 plus archive posts on primers, and doing a little
research here and there, I have determined that the 2 part Epoxy primer
(applied after etching and alodine) is the way to go for someone like me,
living on the Gulf Coast in 80%+ humidity and sea air. If I lived in
Arizona, I'd probably skip it altogether.
I read a great many posts saying the primer is useless because it requires a
top coat to be a moisture barrier. Well the following is an exact quote from
the Poly Fiber Tech. rep in response to my email inquiry:
<>
<>
<>
<>
I know this is a sensitive subject but there are certainly a lot of new folks
like me on the list, searching for the right answer. It never hurts to share
what we learn as we embark on this journey of discovery. I thought some
might be interested in what the factory tech rep had to say.
OK guys - flame away - I love it!!!
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing spars)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
Directional Gyro, SIGMA-TEK (EDO-AIRE) Model 4000B.
Never used since yellow tagged. Looks like new. I went with electric
gyros and have
no use for the vacuum gyros. I recently sold the AI.
$200.00 or best offer.
Please reply off list.
Tony Castellano (914) 227-8527
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6, N401TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Problem |
I used a water column to calibrate my vacuum gauge, then adjusted
the vacuume regulator to get 5". So far, so good.
Tim Lewis
On 16 May 00, at 13:07, Randy J. Pflanzer wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a little sage advice from all the engine mechanic gurus
> out there. I'm having a problem with my vacuum system. At full throttle,
> I do not get an indication of full vacuum on my gauge, but the AH and DG
> seem to be responsive. The gauge does move up but not even to 3" of Hg.
> Since I haven't flown yet and because of my taildragger configuration, I
> can't really tell just by looking whether the AH and DG are getting the
> vacuum they need.
>
> Now I've already had a minor problem with the vacuum gauge prior to
> install. I am using the UMA 1 1/4" vacuum gauge which has two ports in the
> back. There is some interesting and conflicting information in the
> archives on how to hook this instrument up. The ports are labeled "V" and
> "P". I've hooked up the "P" to the back of the AH in the port labeled
> gauge. The "V" line has been connected to a tee on the back of the AH in
> the line coming from the filter. I used the instructions from Tony
> Bingelis in Firewall Forward.
>
> All the parts in the system are new and the vacuum pump is a Stratus.
> There doesn't seem to be a way to connect the vacuum pump up backwards.
> The pump has two ports and the aft most port is labeled "out". The most
> forward outlet is what I am using for vacuum.
>
> What is the best way to determine if the vacuum pump is working correctly?
> I really don't trust the vacuum gauge since I opened up the case to fix a
> problem with it, so I've ordered a new one from Spruce.
>
> Is there a problem with drawing the "v" line for the gauge from a tee in
> the back of the instrument? Do I need to run this to the filter instead?
> Maybe this is affecting the AH.
>
> This problem is not necessarily keeping me from making my first flight as
> I am waiting for the FAA to show up. But I'd like to correct it prior to
> first flight if I can. An advice would be appreciated.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> "Fixing the bugs"
>
>
>
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 QB Fuel tank questions |
Jim,
The only thing "aviation quality" regarding Aviation Prematex, is the word
"aviation"on the label!!! Don't use the stuff. The best cure is to use the proper
nut plates for the job. Certified aircraft use a "blind" nut plate. (Think of
those fancy chromed "acorn" style automotive wheel lug nuts to get the idea of
what they look like) The part number you need is NAS1473-A08
These are pricey, about $3.50 each. Wick's will special order them (a bag of
100) for $2 each. I shared a bag with 3 other builders. Another solution
(slightly less reliable- my opinion) is:
McMaster-Carr Hardware has stainless steel pan head screws machined with silicone
O-rings under the head: 8-32 x 1/2 #90825a816 10-32 x 1/2 #90825a916 phone #
(562)692-5911 Silicone is NOT a suitable sealing material for fuel systems. Ask
them to substitute Viton O-rings for the Silicone ones or simply purchase a bag
of the appropriate size Viton O-rings (they sell them as well)
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 prepping top main skins for dimpling
Boca Raton, Fl.
> << While installing the right wing fuel sender in a QB fuel tank I see that
> the platenuts for, and on, the access plate are not sealed. Won't the
> fuel wick up the threads of the screws and escape? The video, which
> assumes the builder is building the tank, seems to show the platenuts
> smeared with proseal. Do these platenuts need to be smeared over? I
> don't have any proseal, QB remember, but do have aviation form-a-gasket
> which brags on the can "impervious to high octane gasoline". Would that
> be OK? >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: -8 seat rib question |
>
>DWG 23 shows two large holes to be cut into the right side F-814 & F-815
>for the rear seat vent hose. Both holes are shown as 1 5/16". The
>manual, however, indicates that the hole in F-815 should be 2 5/8".
>Quite a discrepancy. Which is correct?
>
>--
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
The hose that comes with Vans vent kit is about 2 3/8" diameter, so 2
5/8 would be a good size.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Badges Update |
Listers
I have had a BIG response to the badges for the list and have shipped out
about 50 todate. Sorry about the slow going but it's real difficult to keep
all the different envelopes straight and making sure they all get done, so
bear with me and I promise they are in the mail. I do appreciate the extra
money people have sent to help with costs. Please let me and the list know
how they look when you receive them. Thanks
Steve Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine gurus please read |
Scott,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you on your engine questions.
I've had great service from Dick Waters (Air-Tec) located in Orlando, FL.
His telephone # is (800) 366-4746
If you haven't bought an engine yet give him a call and tell him you from
the RV-List and I suggested you call him. Our mid-time IO360 engine was $14K
and included him replacing the rear facing sump with a from facing sump.
He also gave us a 2 year warranty on the cyls and 1 year on the crank all
from the date of our first flight.
By the way thanks for the tip on the gyro supplier in Canada (I used your
name and picked up an AIM 305 for $1K.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT
p.s. I hope to make it to S-N-F next year. If Dave and I make it how about a
site visit and we'll buy dinner?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
Listers, How do you convert from inch-pounds to foot pounds? I am
installing the engine mount and the AN6-24 bolts call for 800 to 1000 "lbs.
My torque wrench reads in ft-lbs. Do you divide by 12? That would be about
75 ft-lbs which sounds too strong.
Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI
units.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: torqueing bolts |
In a message dated 5/16/00 10:20:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jfarrar1(at)home.com writes:
<< How do you convert from inch-pounds to foot pounds? I am
installing the engine mount and the AN6-24 bolts call for 800 to 1000 "lbs.
My torque wrench reads in ft-lbs. Do you divide by 12? >>
Absolutely...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Badges Update |
Thanks Steve,
I got mine yesterday and it looks great! I look forward to meeting some
of you helpful people who have posted so much great information to the list.
Wear those nametags so we can say HI to each other in person at the next
fly-in.
Dave
RV6
(near)Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Moore <WP2J(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
Bill Christie wrote:
>
> Bryan,
>
> I don't have RV experience doing this, but I have done it in a C-1 Katana
> with a CFI along. We started out at 4000 AGL, slowed to 65 kts, went to
> full power and climbed at 600fpm. At 4500 AGL, I pulled back the throttle,
> counted 4 seconds (for the initial shock), pitched over for best glide at 71
> kts and did a 360 degree turn to get back to the runway and lined up with
> it. I then flared out of the descent and checked the altimeter. The best we
> got doing this was 800 feet. I've used 850 every since as a trigger in the
> back of my mind everytime I take off. I need to do it for a 172 also but
> haven't yet.
>
> Bill Christie, RV8A, wings, Phoenix
What if you only did a 180 degree turn? That's what I'm interested in.
Bob Moore
Austin, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: fuel tank please help |
From: TCRV6(at)aol.com
Full-name: TCRV6
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 05:38:10 EDT
Subject: fuel tank please help
having trouble fitting fuel tank baffle t-602 to wing spar.seems like
baffle is a little too wide.also too long on the flanges. are they suppose to
touch the spar strips? maybe my shims need to be thicker.drawing 18a shows
the flanges to end near the spar strips.the fuel tank skin at the inb. end is
not as long as the main skins which i understand is set by the out.b
skin.manual says leave half inch for wing tip to attach. for punched skin to
line up with ribs mine has aprox. five-eights skin overhang at tip.will the
tank attach fitting to fuse. come out short when wing is fitted later?would
be very grateful for info. on this subject.
tcrv6(at)aol.com left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torqueing bolts |
Your conversion is correct!
HOWEVER, from AC 43-13-1B Table 7-1 bolt torques say that the max for a
AN6-24 (3/8-24) is 390 inch-pounds. Some time with a special bolt, the
torque is raised like the rod bolt for a Lycoming I think are about 65
foot-Pounds but this is a special high strength bolt.
390 inch pounds is 32.5 foot pounds.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 9:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: torqueing bolts
>
> Listers, How do you convert from inch-pounds to foot pounds? I am
> installing the engine mount and the AN6-24 bolts call for 800 to 1000
"lbs.
> My torque wrench reads in ft-lbs. Do you divide by 12? That would be
about
> 75 ft-lbs which sounds too strong.
>
> Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
> Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI
> units.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric priming install update... |
I used stainless steel primer lines; it seems to solve several problems.
Jack Abell
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
> For the archives, I just thought I might let everyone know that there is a
> rather compelling reason for going with 1/8 inch copper tubing instead of
> aluminum as suggested in Firewall Forward. Apparently several cracks have
> developed in 1/8 inch aluminum tubing when attached directly to the engine even
> with loops to relieve the stress. Consequently I will be installing copper for
> all my priming needs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
>
> What if you only did a 180 degree turn? That's what I'm interested in.
>
> Bob Moore
> Austin, Texas
A 180 will get you turned around, but you will be displaced hundreds of feet
from the runway by the diameter of the turning radius. You will then need to turn
to the runway, then align with the centerline for landing. I had two friends
killed trying this, plus two backseaters I didn't know. Don't turn back unless
you are at pattern altitude. I don't think it is worth splitting hairs about how
high you are. Keep your airspeed up to avoid a stall and pick a spot that you
can
walk away from... none of us wants to bend a plane, even if it is a just rental
(let alone an RV), but the alternative is much worse.
Dave
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
>
>
>Bill Christie wrote:
>
>>
>> Bryan,
>>
>> I don't have RV experience doing this, but I have done it in a C-1 Katana
>> with a CFI along. We started out at 4000 AGL, slowed to 65 kts, went to
>> full power and climbed at 600fpm. At 4500 AGL, I pulled back the
throttle,
>> counted 4 seconds (for the initial shock), pitched over for best glide at
71
>> kts and did a 360 degree turn to get back to the runway and lined up with
>> it. I then flared out of the descent and checked the altimeter. The best
we
>> got doing this was 800 feet. I've used 850 every since as a trigger in
the
>> back of my mind everytime I take off. I need to do it for a 172 also but
>> haven't yet.
>>
>> Bill Christie, RV8A, wings, Phoenix
>
>What if you only did a 180 degree turn? That's what I'm interested in.
>
Please bear in mind that a 180 degree turn would not get you back to the
runway unless there is a very strong cross wind and you allowed yourself to
drift downwind during the initial climb. 360 is probably too much, but I
feel like 270 is pretty close to what the actual turn would be to realign
with a runway, one direction and then the other.
What it comes down to is that it is not normally a practical manuver in
airplanes. In gliders it is something you have to think about, and drifting
downwind in a crosswind is very helpful in the case of a low altitude rope
break. Think about it.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: hartwell latch on oil door |
In a message dated 5/16/00 4:32:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Is there anyone who has successfully installed the hartwell latches on
the oil door?
Did you use 1 or 2 latches?>>
I used two of the Camloc latches.
<< How much additional reinforcing on the oil door was needed to keep it
from lifting? >>
None.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson off to OSH |
Hi group,
Just a note to let y'all know that Jon departed
Adelaide Australia, on his Y2K flight to OSH
yesterday 16th May. First night was spent in
Canberra (our national capital) as there were no
lights on Lord Howe Island........as his arrival
would have been after last light
You can follow Jon's progress..........
the web address is www.jonjohanson.on.net
It is being maintained by a great group of high
school students from
Glenunga International High School in Adelaide.
They are very excited
about it all, but I don't think they have yet
realised the enormity of what
Jon is doing and the worldwide interest. Please
visit the site and give the kids
your support........
Cheers and take care,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Aust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Spenner" <spenner(at)olimpo.com.br> |
| Subject: | Re: torqueing bolts |
Follow the link below,
and you will find a very helpfull program
called Convert.
http://www.joshmadison.com/software
It's freeware
Werner Spenner
Brazil
RV-6A engine/finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hartwell latch on oil door |
> foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
>
> << Is there anyone who has successfully installed
> the hartwell latches on
> the oil door?
> Did you use 1 or 2 latches?>>
>
> How much additional reinforcing on the oil door
> was needed to keep it from lifting? >>
I have successfully installed and flown 550 hours with
ONE Hartwell latch on my oil door. I used NO
additional reinforcement. I do not have any lifting.
I did not make the door as large as was shown on the
plans. It is about 4 inches square.
Come see the airplane if you do not believe me at the
EAA 1000 Fly-In at Rosamond (L00) on Saturday 20 May
2000. http://www.eaa1000.av.org/flyin/flyin.htm
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
| Subject: | gear leg fairings |
I have gear leg fairings on my 6A that are as described in the plans. I
used the spring and wire arrangement to hold them up. It doesn't work
well, they have a 1/4 inch gap around the edges. Is there any reason I
can't just put some screws and nutplates around the edges? I would guess
the spring arrangement is to give them some room to move to accommodate any
flex in the legs, but surely there can't be appreciable flex this close to
the base of the leg. Has anyone tried this. I couldn't find anything in
the archives, though I don't think they were working. I tried primer as a
test and only got 8 hits!
Scott Sawby RV6A341 SS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | dickworks lights |
listers I have two (2) duckworks landing lights, new
never been used for sale both for 135.00 And I will
pay for the shipping once your check clears. Call me
at work today 972-720-2600 extension 3 or home at
817-577-9596 or contact me off list as soon as I have
the units sold I will post to let you guys know the
are gone
Glenn
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
| Subject: | gear leg fairings |
The subject of my last post should have been gear leg intersection
fairings, to clear up any confusion I might have caused.
Scott Sawby
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gear leg fairings |
I made gearleg intersection faring on the fuselage and wheel pants using
the clay and mold release and used 4 screws and nutplantes to hold on the
farings in place on the wheel pants and fuselage. seems to be working for me.
Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
> Bill Christie, RV8A, wings, Phoenix
What if you only did a 180 degree turn? That's what ...........
Does the 180 you want put you on a downwind landing configuration ?
WP2J(at)swbell.net on 05/16/2000 10:43:09 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Don't turn back
Bill Christie wrote:
>
> Bryan,
>
> I don't have RV experience doing this, but I have done it in a C-1 Katana
> with a CFI along. We started out at 4000 AGL, slowed to 65 kts, went to
> full power and climbed at 600fpm. At 4500 AGL, I pulled back the throttle,
> counted 4 seconds (for the initial shock), pitched over for best glide at 71
> kts and did a 360 degree turn to get back to the runway and lined up with
> it. I then flared out of the descent and checked the altimeter. The best we
> got doing this was 800 feet. I've used 850 every since as a trigger in the
> back of my mind everytime I take off. I need to do it for a 172 also but
> haven't yet.
>
> Bill Christie, RV8A, wings, Phoenix
What if you only did a 180 degree turn? That's what I'm interested in.
Bob Moore
Austin, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cheek cowl-to-top skin fit |
How did you do this ?? Some have cut the top skin, others have tucked the top
skin down under the cheeks......I am having a time deciding on the method. Both
solutions seem cheesy to me & I can't recall the Oshgosh ones I saw.....how they
did it ......thanks in advance pcondon(at)csc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: hartwell latch on oil door |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 5/16/00 16:53, Glenn & Judi at foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Is there anyone who has successfully installed the hartwell latches on
> the oil door?
> Did you use 1 or 2 latches?
> How much additional reinforcing on the oil door was needed to keep it
> from lifting?
>
> I have the oil door hinged, bur I am holding off on latching it with
> either Hartwell latches or camlock types until I make heads or tails of
> this whole thing.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
>
>
I don't want to get in the suck vs blow argument; however I feel the top of
the cowl is a very low pressure area, more so the more airspeed you got.
The area under the door is a low pressure area too, but only in relation to
the higher pressue in the plenum area of the engine, which is fed by ram air
from the engine inlets. The net result is that there is no lifting force at
all at zero airspeed, in fact a slight suck down is present due to the
engine cooling air flow; but as speed is added the force becomes upward in a
hurry.
Based on my flight test, repeated several times, the differential pressure
between the bottom of the oil door and the top is sufficient to cause
lifting at 59 to 61 MPH, IAS. Above this speed the lifting force gets quite
strong
I used one latch, slightly off center to the rear (to counteract the lifting
of the aft edge). It works fine and is simple. My door is extra large and
has a wide lip under the door to help seal. I also used a heavy metal for
the door...... .063 I think.
Of course as you may surmise from the test data above, the latch only works
if you remember to latch it.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Cheek cowl-to-top skin fit |
Are Barstad just sent a link of Jon Johanson with his parents in front of
his RV. There's a pretty tight shot of the check/top skin fit there. You
might get an idea from that photo. I can repost the link if needed.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com [mailto:pcondon(at)csc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 6:33 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: re: RV-List: Cheek cowl-to-top skin fit
How did you do this ?? Some have cut the top skin, others
have tucked the top
skin down under the cheeks......I am having a time deciding
on the method. Both
solutions seem cheesy to me & I can't recall the Oshgosh
ones I saw.....how they
did it ......thanks in advance pcondon(at)csc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Flight Trainig/Mike Seger Philadelaphia Appearance |
Anyone in the Philly area interested in or know of anyone who is interested
in partnering or "renting" their RV or any other inverted capable plane? I
need some leads. I have the need to get inverted before my RV is finished.
Yes, I have had aerobatic training (air force).
please contact me off line
Lucky Macy
hp (610) 892-5068
wp (610) 591-5532
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV Flight Trainig/Mike Seger Philadelaphia Appearance
>Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 14:36:24 -0400
>
>
>So Far Mike Seger has these 12 folks signed up for RV training in the
>Philadelphia area on July 18, 19th 20th, 2000.
>
>1. L. A. Dobbs, NJ
>2. P. Condon, NJ
>3. L. Scheer, NY
>4. M. Garramone, NY
>5. T. Norwood, NY
>6. D. L. Davis, PA
>7. R. Ziedman, PA
>8. e-mail person ghfrost.aol.com
>9. R. Gray, Ohio
>10. L. Lawson, ?
>11. J. Cimino, PA
>12. H. Sigmon, DE
>
>Any other RV-listers wanting access to Mike Seger and his RV-6 for Mike's
>CFI
>training please post me a e-mail at pcondon(at)csc.com or philc(at)voicenet.com
>or
>609.654.9587 after 6:00pm est. We have room for 18 training slots. Also,
>if
>there are no objections from the training group, If we collect 10 or 12 $
>pre
>training slot person we can put Mike up at a hotel while he does the
>training.
>I figure 10 $ per trained person times 18 folks will cover Hotel expenses.
>We
>can schedule alternates so more than 18 can sign up because I expect some
>folks
>may not be able to attend due to last minute problems..............later.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
2ea. new duckworks lights 135.00 I pay shipping when
your check clears. contact me at 972-720-2600
extension 3 or 817-577-9596 as soon as the lights are
sold I will inform the list as such. Or contact me off
list
Glenn
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
I recently posted a question concerning tightening the sides of my canopy
cover. I mistakenly said it was an Orndorff cover, but in fact it is not.
My apologies to Becki, who even offered to help me fix it anyway! Thanks
Becki.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry & Joan Lumb" <lumb(at)flinet.com> |
| Subject: | Low Fuel Pressure |
Listers -
I have a problem with steadily decreasing fuel pressure as I do a constant
speed climb to altitude. Vans says it's a common problem but does not
result in engine stoppage. Nevertheless, I would like an explanation.
The scenario: RV-6A with fixed pitch prop in a constant speed climb (110
MPH) from 2000 ft to 8000 ft. Full power and full-rich mixture. Fuel
pressure @2000 ft. is about 4 psi, @ 8000 ft. less than 0.5 psi. My
hangermate's RV-6 experiences the same pressure drop.
Why?
Considering that the nose-up attitude gets slightly lower and the fuel flow
rate gets lower as altitude increases, it is difficult to attribute it to a
diffference in vertical distance from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump,
or to pressure drop in the fuel lines.
One theory is that the pressure at the tank vent is getting lower (less
positive) as altitude increases.
Any thoughts?
Henry Lumb
W. Palm Beach, FL
N330HL Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Test Flight rule flauting (was: Glasair) |
My innocent response to the original question from someone with a friend who wants
to test fly his Glasair despite being a low time pilot apparently inspired this
discussion. As I recall, it was my message that someone quoted when starting this
thread about violating the FARs. In self defense, I hasten to point out that I
didn't intend any such thing.
On the other hand, the FARs don't really say what people are assuming they say.
They say "minimum crew," not just one pilot. Thus, for example, if I'm building
an
IFR equipped airplane, part of my test flight program will include flying instrument
approaches. In that case, the FARs require that I have a safety pilot aboard.
Another lister described his experience with a local FSDO that granted him
permission to carry a second pilot for instructional purposes during testing but
after the first flight (as I recall). Thus, it isn't all quite so cut and dried.
Obviously, the low time pilot who was the subject of the initial inquiry about
RV-6A
time being useful might constructively inquire of his FSDO whether the arrangement
I
originally suggested (now with regret) would be possible for him.
I resent being accused of encouraging violations of the FARs, even by implication.
Best wishes to all,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
The best researched, most informative discussion I have read on this topic was
written
by Barry Schiff. See: Schiff, Barry, "The Proficient Pilot; Volume 1,"
Thomasson-Grant, Charlottesville, Virginia, 1994, pp. 247 - 258. The article is
entitled, "Engine Failure After Takeoff in a Single-Engine Airplane." It dispels
many
of the myths associated with this subject and clearly reveals the fallacy of teaching
a student pilot NEVER to turn back. It is often not only possible to turn back
safely, but it can SOMETIMES be done in SOME airplanes USING CERTAIN TECHNIQUES
with
surprisingly little altitude loss. The best technique for turning back depends
on the
pilot and the airplane.
The author's bottom line is that Bill Christie's approach is the right one to take:
good old down-to-earth, gutsy empiricism, augmented with some aeronautical theory,
i.e., try simulating turnbacks at a moderate altitude using different glide speeds,
bank angles, and turning patterns. You might be surprised to observe that the
best
bank angle for your airplane turns out to be, say, 45 degrees, when you've been
taught
to keep the bank angle at 30 degrees or less. The best turning pattern might turn
out
to be a 210 - 30 degree pattern, not a 270 - 90. When you finally decide that
the
best you can do is, say, 800 feet in a specific airplane using a specific technique,
you should not conclude that you would lose 800 feet in EVERY airplane you fly.
You
have to start all over again for each airplane.
The most constructive input I can make to this discussion is to urge each of you
to
read the Schiff discussion.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris_McLellan(at)mail.jbhunt.com |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
"John B. Abell" (at)matronics.com on 05/17/2000 11:08:59
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Don't turn back
>The best researched, most informative discussion I have read on this topic
was written
>by Barry Schiff. See: Schiff, Barry, "The Proficient Pilot; Volume 1,"
>Thomasson-Grant, Charlottesville, Virginia, 1994, pp. 247 - 258. The
article is
>entitled, "Engine Failure After Takeoff in a Single-Engine Airplane." It
dispels many
>of the myths associated with this subject and clearly reveals the fallacy
of teaching
>a student pilot NEVER to turn back. It is often not only possible to turn
back
>safely, but it can SOMETIMES be done in SOME airplanes USING CERTAIN
TECHNIQUES with
>surprisingly little altitude loss. The best technique for turning back
depends on the
>pilot and the airplane.
Schiff also has an interesing video out (I have it, but I can't
remember where I got it) that deals with this very subject. He actually
demonstrates the exercise for determining the minimum turnaround altitude.
I believe he uses a Cardinal RG. Sporty's might carry this video.
Chris McLellan
RV-8 wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: torqueing bolts |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
An6 should be 160-190 in-# or divide by 12 = 13.3-15.8 ft-#'s.
Sounds like you are torgueing a head down.
This came from AC 43.13-1A.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> Listers, How do you convert from inch-pounds to foot pounds? I am
> installing the engine mount and the AN6-24 bolts call for 800 to
> 1000 "lbs.
> My torque wrench reads in ft-lbs. Do you divide by 12? That would
> be about
> 75 ft-lbs which sounds too strong.
>
> Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ
> jfarrar1(at)home.com
> Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building
> RMI
> units.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
There are several large American mail order companies that serve racing and
street enthusiasts. Summit is one of the biggest. I was flipping through
their free catalog today because I wanted to let The List know about some
cool seats. I quickly found so many things that I thought I should pass on.
Their website doesn't show very many pictures as they are too big. Call
1-800-230-3030 and ask for a free catalog.
http://www.summitracing.com/
Nomex fire proof suits start at $146 and go to $360. Kids $98. Gloves $40.
Too much money? How about $69 for a complete set of Nomex underwear? This
stuff could make a difference. Large selection.
Seats start at $40. Racing car seats are molded plastic or welded aluminum.
They are all designed to be light weight. These remotely resemble the one
that Jon has in his single seat RV4.
RCI 5 point seat belts for $60. That gets you 3" belts and a choice of
black, blue or red. Specify Y-type shoulder harness and I'd recommend the 2"
submarine(crotch) belt.
Insulation - many different kinds of firewall insulation material and
lighter heat shield aluminized heat shield material. Low prices.
Aeroquip - The full line. Aluminum, steel, AN, AQP, hose, there's two pages
of the stuff then it's all covered again by another brand named Earl's.
Fuel cells for the luggage compartment. Aluminum or plastic, all different
sizes.
Engine Hoist - SUM-G1029 $200 Rated at 4000lbs this has hydraulic lift,
wheels and folds up after use. This would be a great club purchase. I don't
see how I'm going to install my engine without one of these.
Three different handheld wind meters including the Kestrel for $90.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Summit Racing |
in regards to the belts they have been on here before and they are much
heavier then hookers or any of the aviation companies belts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cheek cowl-to-top skin fit |
Great....I'll try to find the URL so I can look at it. If the hit is still in
your reader I could use a link...meanwhile I'll try matronics search...again
thanks...
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com on 05/17/2000 10:31:18 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cheek cowl-to-top skin fit
Are Barstad just sent a link of Jon Johanson with his parents in front of
his RV. There's a pretty tight shot of the check/top skin fit there. You
might get an idea from that photo. I can repost the link if needed.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com [mailto:pcondon(at)csc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 6:33 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: re: RV-List: Cheek cowl-to-top skin fit
How did you do this ?? Some have cut the top skin, others
have tucked the top
skin down under the cheeks......I am having a time deciding
on the method. Both
solutions seem cheesy to me & I can't recall the Oshgosh
ones I saw.....how they
did it ......thanks in advance pcondon(at)csc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
I've seen some RV's with small 4 inch or so-extentions on the fuel vents that
are facing forward, joggled or stepped so to get the leading opening on the
aluimun tubeis away from the belly skin and flaired a little with the
flairing tool ( like a pilgrams shotgun). I imagine this is a attempt to get
undistrubed air rammed a little into the vent.........any one else seen these
vent tubes ? Any comments on them ???
lumb(at)flinet.com on 05/17/2000 11:05:44 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Low Fuel Pressure
Listers -
I have a problem with steadily decreasing fuel pressure as I do a constant
speed climb to altitude. Vans says it's a common problem but does not
result in engine stoppage. Nevertheless, I would like an explanation.
The scenario: RV-6A with fixed pitch prop in a constant speed climb (110
MPH) from 2000 ft to 8000 ft. Full power and full-rich mixture. Fuel
pressure @2000 ft. is about 4 psi, @ 8000 ft. less than 0.5 psi. My
hangermate's RV-6 experiences the same pressure drop.
Why?
Considering that the nose-up attitude gets slightly lower and the fuel flow
rate gets lower as altitude increases, it is difficult to attribute it to a
diffference in vertical distance from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump,
or to pressure drop in the fuel lines.
One theory is that the pressure at the tank vent is getting lower (less
positive) as altitude increases.
Any thoughts?
Henry Lumb
W. Palm Beach, FL
N330HL Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard TREANOR" <rtreanor(at)ci.sunnyvale.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
"John B. Abell" wrote:
>The best researched, most informative discussion I have read on this topic >was
written by Barry Schiff. See: Schiff, Barry, "The Proficient Pilot; >Volume
1,"
Completely agree! Many factors including runway length, winds, aircraft weight
& performance, but most importantly pilot proficiency should be taken into consideration.
For example, there is a real difference in taking off from a 7000'
runway with 6500' remaining and a short grass strip somewhere. Don't get dogmatic,
think about it and practice it.
Rich Treanor
Sunnyvale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Some controlled testing can yield interesting info on a given a/c. Tried it
with my Citabria and found with my climb angle (better than most spam cans
but lower than RVs) I might be able to turn around but might not have any
runway left to land on. And since I don't have a low level akro waiver, the
sight picture scared the begeezees out of me. Sure hard to keep the nose
down and speed up when the windshield is full of grass and trees. It sure
caused me to raise my limits to even consider a turn back. Food for
thought.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY wiring & systems - Citabria for sale
..snip..
> surprisingly little altitude loss. The best technique for
> turning back depends on the
> pilot and the airplane.
>
> The author's bottom line is that Bill Christie's approach is the
> right one to take:
> good old down-to-earth, gutsy empiricism, augmented with some
> aeronautical theory,
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Summit Racing/cheap engine hoist |
"""">>Engine Hoist - SUM-G1029 $200 Rated at 4000lbs this has hydraulic lift,
wheels and folds up after use. This would be a great club purchase. I don't
see how I'm going to install my engine without one of these.""""<<<<
My problem with engine hoists is their great the 2 times in my life I needed
them. There a royal PITA (pain in the Ass) for the rest of the 20 or so years
I
moved it, jumped over it, banged my head on it, rolled, pushed, moved or
otherwise touched it (this was in Dad's house when growing up) . Fast forward
to Phil's garage now.... I recently purchaced two good qualitity 7 foot aluimun
ladders-- step ladder type rated for 350 lbs. I got a 22 dollar ratchiting
come-along, a piece of scrap wood and positioned the two ladders to straddle the
airplane. Used the come-along to position the engine in place. When the whole
show was over in 30 minutes and I had the two ladders stored on the garage wall
out of the way. I have since used the two ladders for many, many houseold
chores. Having two allows for a flexable painting platform, running a 2 by 10
thru them for a scafoldong......the whole point being I am geting much more use
from the two aluimun ladders than from the engine hoist............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torqueing bolts |
This is what 43-13-1B Says in Table 7-1 As someone said, "It depends" and
there are 4 different values depending on the setup for AN310 fine thread
bolts. My first answer wasn't complete and Don Jordan published a different
set of values so I went back and picked up all four types of nuts. I
learned that it depends on the nut.
TABLE 7-1. Recommended torque values (inch-pounds).
Thread Size - 3/8-24
Tension type nuts
MS20365 and AN310
(40,000 psi in bolts) - 160-190
Shear type nuts MS20364
and AN320 (24,000 psi in bolts) - 95-110
Nuts MS20365 and
AN310 (90,000 psi in bolts) - 390
Nuts MS20364 and
AN320 (54,000 psi in bolts) - 240
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: torqueing bolts
>
> An6 should be 160-190 in-# or divide by 12 = 13.3-15.8 ft-#'s.
> Sounds like you are torgueing a head down.
> This came from AC 43.13-1A.
>
> Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
>
>
> writes:
> >
> > Listers, How do you convert from inch-pounds to foot pounds? I am
> > installing the engine mount and the AN6-24 bolts call for 800 to
> > 1000 "lbs.
> > My torque wrench reads in ft-lbs. Do you divide by 12? That would
> > be about
> > 75 ft-lbs which sounds too strong.
> >
> > Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ
> > jfarrar1(at)home.com
> > Wings done, fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building
> > RMI
> > units.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg fairings |
>
>I couldn't find anything in
>the archives, though I don't think they were working. I tried primer as a
>test and only got 8 hits!
>
>Scott Sawby RV6A341 SS
You must have selected the RV6 list. Very few people ever post to
the various RV model specific lists. Any posts they do make are
automatically sent to the regular RV-List. So, for archive
searching, it is best to search the default list, the RV list unless
you absolutely know that the post you are looking for was made to
another list.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 05/16/2000 5:34:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time, mkr(at)netw.com
writes:
<< This, unfortunately, is against the FAA's rule of only one person aboard
during test flying. >>
Not Necessarily True
If my memory serves me correctly, it is allowed if the second person is
considered to be a "necessary" crew member. One might want to look into this
further and maybe discuss it with the powers that be. do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
> If my memory serves me correctly, it is allowed if the second person is
> considered to be a "necessary" crew member. One might want to look into this
> further and maybe discuss it with the powers that be.
This is true. Flights during the test stage are limited to necessary crew
members. Who is necessary is to be determined (within reason) by the pilot in
command. A flight instructor or someone else more familiar with the type than
you, who is there to observe the initial characteristics of the aircraft and to
possibly get you out of trouble is surely within reason.
My 6A's first flight was by an experienced RV pilot whom I had asked to test fly
it. It's second flight was with me in the left and my test pilot in the right.
On
it's third flight, I flew solo, which I continued to do until my test time was
complete.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gear leg fairings |
Yeah, Scott, same for me. Used 4 ea. #6 screws and nutplates for my gear
leg fairings. Worked great, 650 hours, 10 years flying an RV-4. Flex not a
problem.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: Marian and Scott Sawby <mkr(at)netw.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 8:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: gear leg fairings
>
>
> The subject of my last post should have been gear leg intersection
> fairings, to clear up any confusion I might have caused.
>
> Scott Sawby
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
The new Order 8130.2D states that "During the test-flgiht phase, no perosn
may be carried in thei aircraft during flight UNLESS that person is
essential to the purpose of the flight". The gray area here is the
"essential to the purpose of the flight". That is between you and your
local FAA Inspector. Suffice it to say that if it is not a very compeling
reason then it won't hold.
Mike Robertson
"Das Fed"
>From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glasair
>Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 18:19:47 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 05/16/2000 5:34:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>mkr(at)netw.com
>writes:
>
><< This, unfortunately, is against the FAA's rule of only one person aboard
> during test flying. >>
>Not Necessarily True
>If my memory serves me correctly, it is allowed if the second person is
>considered to be a "necessary" crew member. One might want to look into
>this
>further and maybe discuss it with the powers that be. do
>not
>archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marian and Scott Sawby" <mkr(at)netw.com> |
>
> > If my memory serves me correctly, it is allowed if the second person is
> > considered to be a "necessary" crew member. One might want to look
into this
> > further and maybe discuss it with the powers that be.
>
> This is true. Flights during the test stage are limited to necessary crew
> members. Who is necessary is to be determined (within reason) by the
pilot in
> command. A flight instructor or someone else more familiar with the type
than
> you, who is there to observe the initial characteristics of the aircraft
and to
> possibly get you out of trouble is surely within reason.
I suppose you will get different opinions on this from different FSDO's but
what they told me was one person period. The "necessary crew member" bit
only applies to planes that require more thant one person to fly them.
Scott Sawby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <johndheath(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Some help with Fuel Pressure, I hope |
The subject of "low fuel pressure" comes up now and again on the List.
Let's try to resolve it once and for all.
Let me start by saying that any one that doesn't have a copy of the TCDS for
their engine should go to the FAA web site<http://www.av-info.faa.gov/tc/>
and get one.
TCDS E-286 says, in part,( O 360 type engines )
"NOTE 2. Pressure limits:
Fuel - At inlet to carburetor,above carburetor inlet air pressure."
That's, FUEL INLET TO CARBURETOR, ABOVE CARBURETOR
INLET AIR PRESSURE.
TCDS E-286 also says,
" Minimum
Maximum
Bendix PSH-5BD......... 9 p.s.i. 18 p.s.i.
Facet (Marvel Schebler) 0.5 p.s.i. 8 p.s.i.
MA-4, HA-6...............
Believe me, when the air pressure in the carburetor inlet exceeds the fuel
pressure the pump can deliver, for any period of time, the engine will quit.
That being true, and theory being tested with engines continuing to run,
we must not be measuring pressure as stated in the TCDS !!!
More than likely, what we see on the gauge represents, pressure at fuel
inlet to carburetor, above cockpit pressure,where the gauge is mounted.
Consider also, Most instruments are most accurate in the center one
third of their range. It would take a pretty efficient instrument to read
right on at 0 p.s.i. +or- 0.5 p.s.i.
JDHeath
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <johndheath(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Some help with Fuel Pressure, I hope |
Corrected Link,sorry JDH
----- Original Message -----
From: "John D. Heath" <johndheath(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 9:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Some help with Fuel Pressure, I hope
>
> The subject of "low fuel pressure" comes up now and again on the List.
> Let's try to resolve it once and for all.
>
> Let me start by saying that any one that doesn't have a copy of the TCDS
for
> their engine should go to the FAA web site<http://av-info.faa.gov/tc/>
> and get one.
>
> TCDS E-286 says, in part,( O 360 type engines )
> "NOTE 2. Pressure limits:
> Fuel - At inlet to carburetor,above carburetor inlet air pressure."
>
> That's, FUEL INLET TO CARBURETOR, ABOVE CARBURETOR
> INLET AIR PRESSURE.
>
> TCDS E-286 also says,
> " Minimum
> Maximum
> Bendix PSH-5BD......... 9 p.s.i. 18
p.s.i.
>
> Facet (Marvel Schebler) 0.5 p.s.i. 8 p.s.i.
> MA-4, HA-6...............
>
> Believe me, when the air pressure in the carburetor inlet exceeds the fuel
> pressure the pump can deliver, for any period of time, the engine will
quit.
> That being true, and theory being tested with engines continuing to run,
> we must not be measuring pressure as stated in the TCDS !!!
> More than likely, what we see on the gauge represents, pressure at fuel
> inlet to carburetor, above cockpit pressure,where the gauge is mounted.
> Consider also, Most instruments are most accurate in the center one
> third of their range. It would take a pretty efficient instrument to read
> right on at 0 p.s.i. +or- 0.5 p.s.i.
>
> JDHeath
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dickworks lights |
glenn williams wrote:
>
>
> listers I have two (2) duckworks landing lights, new
> never been used for sale both for 135.00 And I will
> pay for the shipping once your check clears. Call me
> at work today 972-720-2600 extension 3 or home at
> 817-577-9596 or contact me off list as soon as I have
> the units sold I will post to let you guys know the
> are gone
>
> Glenn
>
> ====
> Glenn Williams
> 8A
> A&P
>
dickworks lights?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Marian and Scott Sawby wrote:
>
>
> >
> > > If my memory serves me correctly, it is allowed if the second person is
> > > considered to be a "necessary" crew member. One might want to look
> into this
> > > further and maybe discuss it with the powers that be.
> >
> > This is true. Flights during the test stage are limited to necessary crew
> > members. Who is necessary is to be determined (within reason) by the
> pilot in
> > command. A flight instructor or someone else more familiar with the type
> than
> > you, who is there to observe the initial characteristics of the aircraft
> and to
> > possibly get you out of trouble is surely within reason.
>
> I suppose you will get different opinions on this from different FSDO's but
> what they told me was one person period. The "necessary crew member" bit
> only applies to planes that require more thant one person to fly them.
>
> Scott Sawby
>
NOT true Scott the person that told you that was not well informed
on the how the limitations read. It applies to THE FLIGHT.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I was wondering if any of you who have installed a heated pitot installed if after
the wing was closed up or have insight. as to how it could be installed
in that situation.
Dave Ford
RV6
awaiting fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: KY-97A(not RV-related) |
In a message dated 5/17/00 8:28:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
JNice51355(at)aol.com writes:
<< Here's a question that I shouldn't have to ask, but I will anyway. I have
a
newly purchased airplane and it has a KY-97A Comm Radio. It works very
well,
but the operator needs to learn. It is advertised as a 760 channel radio.
The question is this. How do you make it display three digits?(as in
135.625
etc.) I must be missing something, cuz I only see two digits after the
point, but stuff like AWOS
often call for the .005 to work. >>
Jim-
All of the King radios of which I am aware require that you pull out on the
center tuning knob to get the fine increments, although the displays never do
show the least significant digit (135.625 is displayed as 135.62).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: canopy cover |
| From: | "Paul A. Rosales" <rv6a(at)juno.com> |
I tried to order a cover for my -6A from DJ (Cleaveland Tool) yesterday
and she told me they were backordered for several months...Paul
>I have DJ Lauretson's cover and it doesn't seem to flap around much.
>It has a soft edge that wouldn't do much if it did.........
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TCDS Location - Some help with Fuel Pressure, I hope |
Thanks for discussing the fuel pressure issue again, it cleared up a
question for me! However, the link you referenced has changed, apparently.
Here is where I found the info:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rghtml.nsf/htmlmed
ia/make_model_selection.html
The govt has begun to respond pretty well with making information available
on the Internet. Life would sure be more difficult without it! Thanks for
inventing the Internet, Mr. Gore!!! :)
Bryan Jones
-8 Inspection Next Tuesday
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
Did that exact thing using Warren Gretz ( spelling ?) mast & base mount kit.
Others have installed on the inspection cover. Its very do-able.....good luck
dford(at)michweb.net on 05/18/2000 02:15:45 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Heated pitot
I was wondering if any of you who have installed a heated pitot installed if
after the wing was closed up or have insight. as to how it could be installed
in that situation.
Dave Ford
RV6
awaiting fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
renamed & reposted (glasair would not mean much to archieve searchers) with Test
Flight......Archievers-- search on enclosed threads for test flight related
chatter
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com on 05/17/2000 08:29:58 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glasair
The new Order 8130.2D states that "During the test-flgiht phase, no perosn
may be carried in thei aircraft during flight UNLESS that person is
essential to the purpose of the flight". The gray area here is the
"essential to the purpose of the flight". That is between you and your
local FAA Inspector. Suffice it to say that if it is not a very compeling
reason then it won't hold.
Mike Robertson
"Das Fed"
>From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glasair
>Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 18:19:47 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 05/16/2000 5:34:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>mkr(at)netw.com
>writes:
>
><< This, unfortunately, is against the FAA's rule of only one person aboard
> during test flying. >>
>Not Necessarily True
>If my memory serves me correctly, it is allowed if the second person is
>considered to be a "necessary" crew member. One might want to look into
>this
>further and maybe discuss it with the powers that be. do
>not
>archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | new lycoming engine tip |
I made my first oil change (6.2 hours) on my new O-320 yesterday. Had a tough
time getting the filter off. Had a 1 inch socket on the rear and a filter
wrench on the other side. Finally with two of us using the two devices we
were able to get it off, but not before we bent the filter wrench handle.
Suggest you remove it and reinstall it before you mount a new engine. Also
the lycoming book says to remove the oil screens and clean when changing oil.
I do not believe there are any on my D1A engine. Anyone know any difference???
Bernie Kerr, N60WM was RV grinning this morning just after sunrise flying
over the coast line at 6500 feet over patchy cumulus and talking to miami
center checking my x-p !!! You guys that aren't flying, keep at it and it
will eventually happen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
In addition to the lateral offset problem so often discussed, there's
another interesting consideration -- if you successfully complete the
180, will you be able to make the runway, or will you undershoot or
*overshoot*? A steep climbout from the start of the runway into a good
headwind makes me think that you could easily do the 180 and find most
of the runway behind you. (As an aside, if you lose the engine, who
cares about landing on the runway? A taxiway or some grass between the
pavement would do just fine.)
Many posters have remarked on techniques that required 700-800 feet to
do the 180, and concluded that because that one technique didn't work,
none would. Here's a technique that I've tried at altitude to see what
you can get out of the airplane. I've never tried it at low altitude
(when you read it you'll know why), do *not* recommend this as a low
altitude maneuver, nor would I use it myself. However, in a Cessna 172
or a Grumman Tiger, I've consistently demonstrated the ability to do a
180 in less than 300 feet vertically, starting at Vy, but without the
customary 4 second delay. (Glider pilots don't wait 4 seconds after a
rope break to do their 180, they brief for a rope break as part of the
takeoff checklist and note the 90 degree and 180 degree turnaround
altitudes on the climbout.) I've not tried this in my RV-4, yet, either.
Here's how you do it: at power reduction at Vy, smoothly pull the nose
*up* to about 60 mph, about 20 - 30 degrees nose up. As the plane
decelerates, smoothly start a 60 degree bank, coordinated, 1 G turn with
the stall warning horn going off. How 1 G and not 2G? You're not holding
altitude, but rather are in a semi-ballistic trajectory while going over
the top of the turn. Recovery from the the 180 degree turn will be at
about 30 degrees nose down, and at the same altitude you started at.
You'll need that 300 feet to recover from the dive (don't stall it
there!), and will recover at greater than Vy. Recovery is complete when
the vertical speed is zero (the indicator may not have caught up with
you at that point). Recovery is not complete while you have a high sink
rate, even if you are in level flight attitude.
Although this maneuver does not make sense for a low altitude 180, this
is my *personal* 180 away from terrain maneuver, with power, should I
ever be dumb enough to get stuck in that situation. And, yes, I have
practiced this maneuver, more than once.
As another poster mentioned, this kind of maneuvering gives some pretty
radical sight pictures if you're only used to straight and level. If
you're proficient at flight at MCA, stalls, spins, hammerheads, and
especially wingovers, you'll likely have done your homework. If you're
new to the game and want to see what the airplane can do, go find a CFI
to help you -- a CFI who has paid some acro dues and is comfortable with
spins and aggressive very low speed maneuvering.
The best piece of advice for an engine failure on takeoff? Figure out
your options before you push the throttle forward, and have a plan
already in mind.
Ed Wischmeyer
CFI
--
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | MT Propeller on RV-9A 2nd Prototype |
George True wrote:
>>His (Jon Johanson's) new prop is an MT constant speed.
>>I think the blades are composite, possibly carbon fiber over wood.
Speaking of MT props, I just noticed on Van's web site that the RV-9A 2nd
Prototype (N129RV) now sports a 3 blade MT constant speed prop. It looks
like Van is pulling out all the stops to see what the -9A can do. He also
may be tempting me to spend more $$$ than is prudent!
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's service - beyond expectations! |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | stick movement (slop) rv6 |
I've got about 3/16" stick play when moving the elevaters on my RV6. The
slop is in the bronze stick bushings at the base of the control sticks and
thus can't be eliminated. This movement is most noticable when moving the
sticks in opposite directions. The manual states that there should be no
slop to prevent flutter. Is this common or are my bushings possibly out of
tolerance.
Dave Beizer
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
Ed Wischmeyer's observations are really interesting. One might extend his
thinking to the case where all of the energy in the takeoff is put into
airspeed and almost none into altitude, i.e., flying a couple feet off the
ground and trying to reach the highest airspeed possible at the end of the
runway. In the extreme case, the turn back becomes a hammerhead.
Ed's allusion to rope breaks underscores the importance of mental
preparedness. On my very first sailplane ride (37 years ago!), the tow cable
parted on takeoff and I was awestruck at the speed with which the pilot, a
professional experimental test pilot and soaring enthusiast, reacted. We had
been climbing at what I judged to be about a 35 to 40 degree angle just above
stall speed when the cable parted. The landing was something more gentle
than a controlled crash, but a safe landing nevertheless. If, as Ed
suggests, one can militate against the four seconds' delay through such
mental preparedness, the engine failure on takeoff becomes a whole new
problem.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Wereley" <awereley(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: -8 seat rib question |
>
>DWG 23 shows two large holes to be cut into the right side F-814 & F-815
>for the rear seat vent hose. Both holes are shown as 1 5/16". The
>manual, however, indicates that the hole in F-815 should be 2 5/8".
>Quite a discrepancy. Which is correct?
>
>--
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
>floor ribs
>
The 2 5/8" in the manual refers to the hole diameter. The plans show 1
5/16" radius, same size.
Andy Wereley
-8 #80234
(jigging fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | stick movement (slop) rv6 |
Absolutely zero slop in my system. Talk to Van's about replacement.
They've worked with me before in similar instances.
I had to take a little material off my bushings to make the I.D and O.D fit
right.
Bryan Jones
-8 Inspection Next Tuesday
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Texas RV-8 needed |
RV-8 in Texas needed:
Being averse to fiberglass work, I have been in touch with Mark Frederick at
Team Rocket for many months now trying to buy a set of both gearleg *and*
intersection fairings. Just as he has these parts for the RV-6 for sale, he
plans to sell a set for the -8. The problem is that he needs an RV-8 to make
molds from. He has a plane lined up to make the molds on but it has not been
available to him as planned, consequently he can't make a set for me. So, if
any of you -8 builder's in Texas would volunteer your plane to have a set of
intersection fairings made for it I'm sure you'd either get them cheap or
free. Then I'd be able to get mine too!
If anyone is interested please contact Mark Frederick at 512-365-8131, or
mark(at)teamrocketaircraft.com
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Cy:
I got some questions.
1> I got 43-13a-1a change 3 & 43-13-2a combined. I think I bought it from
Andy last year.
date is 1988. You quoted -1B . I don't have any referance to that .
Should I have ordered another book?
2> Now if you follow the table of contents the page numbers are located
in the upper out side of the page along with the paragraph & chapter. The
problem is on page 27, down at the bottom-center is page 49. I know the
FAA likes to get confussing, but I have never ran across a book with 2
different page #'s on the same page.
3> I finally learned the AN systerm, Why do we have to re-learn all them
MS long #'s?
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> This is what 43-13-1B Says in Table 7-1 As someone said, "It
> depends" and there are 4 different values depending on the setup for
AN310 fine
> thread bolts. My first answer wasn't complete and Don Jordan published
a
> different set of values so I went back and picked up all four types of
nuts.
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at
> http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rod Kimmell <rkimmell(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Simple Green Corrosive - USAF Report |
There was an interesting article on AvWeb today indicating that Simple
Green was determined by the USAF to be corrosive to aluminium and not
recommended for use.
In our situation, the common use for Simple Green is to wash parts prior to
priming. The parts are thoroughly rinsed with little chance of trapped
solution remaining to cause long term trouble. If there was any etching in
the few minutes of contact it may actually aid in providing an etched
surface enhancing primer adhesion.
The USAF test looked at long term exposure. Of particular importance to me
is the sandwich test. This implies using Simple Green on a completed
aircraft might pose some risk as there may be solution trapped between the
surfaced of a joint, similar to the sandwich test.
See: http://www.avweb.com/newswire/news0020b.html for the article entitled:
"It's Simple -- Don't Use This To Clean Aircraft" , near the bottom.
The following URL contains the actual USAF article in PDF form.
http://www.avweb.com/other/usaf0020b1.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Simple Green Not for Aircraft.... |
This lifted from AVWEB aviation news-wire service. I recall many posters(me
included)using this cleaner on their aircraft....
..........
IT'S SIMPLE -- DON'T USE THIS TO CLEAN AIRCRAFT: A well-known aviation
magazine this month published a feature article on cleaning one's
aircraft and getting it ready for spring flying. Only one problem -- a
product the article recommended as safe for aviation use has been proven
corrosive to aluminum. The product is Simple Green, a popular household
cleaning liquid.
NOTE: AVweb's NewsWire <http://www.avweb.com/newswire/news0020b.html>
includes a U.S. Air Force report on Simple Green's effects.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
"John B. Abell" wrote:
>
>
> Ed Wischmeyer's observations are really interesting. One might extend his
> thinking to the case where all of the energy in the takeoff is put into
> airspeed and almost none into altitude, i.e., flying a couple feet off the
> ground and trying to reach the highest airspeed possible at the end of the
> runway. In the extreme case, the turn back becomes a hammerhead.
>
>Jack Abell
That's an interesting extrapolation to the hammerhead. In fact, this
discussion came up sometime ago with a professional Ag pilot. His
solution to "the turn" was a tilted hammerhead/wingover and he kept his
alignment with the runway, avoiding the turnback, and completed the turn
at entry altitude. He also repeated the idea that in his business the
expected takeoff procedure was an aborted one (engine failure/power
loss) because they were always at or above gross weight at the start of
the flight and that their stand-by procedure was a completed takeoff.
Again, looking to lose that 4-5 sec. of indecision. And, yes I lost the bet.
Boyd.
RV S6
200 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new lycoming engine tip |
Yes virginia ,there is a screen, the safety wired nut is located on the rear
of the block just below the oil filter better look again. The holes in the
screen are large enough to let a caddilac through. take care lots of luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
This is exactly the type of discussion we all need to have. I hope I have
never said, "you can't turn back." What I have tried to say is, "don't
turn back."
Obviously if you are at cruise altitude you can turn. There are other
occasions where it works as well. parallel runways might work, maybe even
from turning crosswind. Depends on the airplane, the airport, the wind, and
mostly the pilot.
Sean Tucker might recover from such a situation with a "split S." But if
John Q Pilot tries that, chances are a funeral will be in order.
Bob Hoover usually made a 45 degree turn immeadiatley after take off because
he got a load of kerosene in his Commander once and nearly did not make it
back to the airport. I don't think anyone on this list rivals his ability
to judge the energy available and the energy required...........
If you have never seen what a windshield full of dirt looks like from a low
altitude, I would not bet a beer on your success if it was your first
experience and with a dead engine. I have ridden thru a surface level
aerobatic demonstration, (no, it is not legal) and it was all I could do to
keep from grabbing the stick and pulling hard! In an RV at low speed it
only takes a few pounds of stick pressure to snap-roll.
The whole discussion of the amount of energy in the impending off-airport
landing has been hashed and rehashed on this list, but I will revisit it.
Once you turn back, if you are unable to make the runway, land short, or run
off the far end, you will be making a downwind crash. The two rules of
crashing an airplane are, hit something soft, and hit it as slow as
possible. A 10 kt wind will raise the speed of your crash from 50 to 70. I
am not an engineer but that is a tremendous increase in energy that has to
be spent.
In short, unless you are willing to go out and practice, on the deck, DON'T
TURN BACK!
If you have practiced, on the deck, and you're willing to bet your butt that
it will work, Go for it???? If you land somewhere that was in your field of
vision when the engine quit, chances are you go back to the garage for some
rebuild. If you turn back, and it works, you are a hero, if it doesn't, we
will have another discussion on this list about "Don't turn back!"
As the "defender of don't turn back"
I remain,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
BTW, while you are practicing your turn backs, make sure you are switching
tanks turning on the carb heat, checking the boost pump and getting ready
for the impending off airport landing. All this while you are flying on the
ragged edge, close to the ground in a steep turn........ Also, be sure and
do all of this at an unfamiliar airport where the landmarks are not queuing
you as to where you are relative to the runway when you cannot see it.
Nothing to it...........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torqueing bolts |
The 1B version was just done last fall with all the latest info. I don't
think 1A is that much different but you can buy the new version for $60 from
the government printing office or do what I did, download in zipped PDF from
Jim Pratt's site... http://www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/pubs.htm
It is also on the Avantext CD.
I think the 2A is current
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 12:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: torqueing bolts
>
> Cy:
> I got some questions.
>
> 1> I got 43-13a-1a change 3 & 43-13-2a combined. I think I bought it from
> Andy last year.
> date is 1988. You quoted -1B . I don't have any referance to that .
> Should I have ordered another book?
>
> 2> Now if you follow the table of contents the page numbers are located
> in the upper out side of the page along with the paragraph & chapter. The
> problem is on page 27, down at the bottom-center is page 49. I know the
> FAA likes to get confussing, but I have never ran across a book with 2
> different page #'s on the same page.
>
> 3> I finally learned the AN systerm, Why do we have to re-learn all them
> MS long #'s?
>
> Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
>
> >
> > This is what 43-13-1B Says in Table 7-1 As someone said, "It
> > depends" and there are 4 different values depending on the setup for
> AN310 fine
> > thread bolts. My first answer wasn't complete and Don Jordan published
> a
> > different set of values so I went back and picked up all four types of
> nuts.
> > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> > (Click here to visit our Club site at
> > http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new lycoming engine tip |
>
> I made my first oil change (6.2 hours) on my new
> O-320 yesterday. Had a tough
> time getting the filter off. Had a 1 inch socket on
> the rear and a filter
> wrench on the other side. Finally with two of us
> using the two devices we
> were able to get it off, but not before we bent the
> filter wrench handle.
> Suggest you remove it and reinstall it before you
> mount a new engine. Also
> the lycoming book says to remove the oil screens and
> clean when changing oil.
> I do not believe there are any on my D1A engine.
> Anyone know any difference???
This is a problem when you do not have the rubber
gasket on the filter lubricated with something other
than engine oil. Lycoming or Champion recommends
using Dow Corning # something grease on the rubber
gasket. The MINERAL oil that we break the engines in
on is not sufficent to keep the gasket from sticking.
A tube of the Dow Corning grease can be purchased for
about $13 USD. If you do not have the Dow Dorning,
Lubeplate (spelling) will work.
I know this as I had the same problem removing the
first filter from the engine I rebuilt. I used
Lubeplate till I purchased the correct product.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
snip
> ...The two rules of
> crashing an airplane are, hit something soft, and hit it as slow as
> possible. A 10 kt wind will raise the speed of your crash from 50 to 70.
I
> am not an engineer but that is a tremendous increase in energy that has to
> be spent.
snip
To emphasize the point, it may be worthwhile to put some numbers to Doug's
example. For those who may not have been exposed to the math, if I recall
correctly, energy is related to the square of the velocity, i.e. twice the
velocity, four times the energy to be dissipated to bring an aircraft to a
stop. In Doug's example, an aircraft at 70 has almost twice the energy as
at 50 (4900/2500 = 1.96). So at first glance, the difference between 50
and 70 on landing (off field or on) might not seem like much, but it really
is.
Bob Hall
RV6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
David and the List,
I make and sell the kit for installing the heated pitot tube mounting bracket and
I also sell heated pitot tubes in two different models. Take a look at my website
to see the
products. The address is www.gretzaero.com
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
David Ford wrote:
>
> I was wondering if any of you who have installed a heated pitot installed if
after the wing was closed up or have insight. as to how it could be installed
in that situation.
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
> awaiting fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: stick movement (slop) rv6 |
Unless they have changed things, it's important not to shorten the bushings
too much; they should fit snugly in the weldment fork, being clamped there by
the bolt so that no movement of the bushing on the bolt is possible. The
movement is all between the bushing and the tube welded to the bottom of the
joy stick. This eliminates one degree of freedom (the bushing wobbling
lengthwise on the bolt shaft) and makes for a tighter control system.
If you hastily file the bushing even with the tube weldment, as I did when
dry-fitting the parts for the first time, you can still salvage the parts by
removing just a smidge of length from the steel tube and leting the bushing
again sit proud of its ends. Too much of this treatment will require
over-torquing of the bolt to bring the weldment tight against the bushing, so
don't over-do it.
I hope this is right... it's been years since I was at that stage of
construction.
-Bill Boyd
RV-6A 107 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new lycoming engine tip |
In a message dated 5/18/00 7:49:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
<<
This is a problem when you do not have the rubber
gasket on the filter lubricated with something other
than engine oil. Lycoming or Champion recommends
using Dow Corning # something grease on the rubber
gasket. The MINERAL oil that we break the engines in
on is not sufficent to keep the gasket from sticking.
A tube of the Dow Corning grease can be purchased for
about $13 USD. If you do not have the Dow Dorning,
Lubeplate (spelling) will work.
I know this as I had the same problem removing the
first filter from the engine I rebuilt. I used
Lubeplate till I purchased the correct product >>
Hi Gary,
You would think that lycoming would put the filter on with the good "Stuff"
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rudder platenut question |
the bottom plate nut call for 2 FLUSH HEAD rivets forward WHY??????? does the
rod end go that far into the platenut that there needs to be clearance. being
that the bottom rib flange was so narrow and did not meet the 2x rule,
pre-drilled, not my fault i decided to add a couple on each side of the
platenut. i am afraid that i may have a royal screw up. help is appreciated,
bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EGT spread on O-320?? |
I have never flown a "aircraft engine" with EGT sensors on all 4 cylinders
before now. My experience with 2 strokers was to tune the carbs ( one on each
cylinder ) it the spread exceeded 50 degrees. My new lycoming seems fine at
65 per cent with about a 30 degree spread, but it will go to 200 at wide open
throttle. You can definitely feel the engine take a step up in vibration when
the spread exceeds about 100 degrees. Anyone know how to communicate with
lycoming tech folks? phone numbers or email address?
Bernie Kerr , 8 hours of grinning, 6A N60WM, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
In a message dated 05/18/2000 6:30:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dougr(at)petroblend.com writes:
<< BTW, while you are practicing your turn backs, make sure you are switching
tanks turning on the carb heat, checking the boost pump and getting ready
for the impending off airport landing. All this while you are flying on the
ragged edge, close to the ground in a steep turn........ Also, be sure and
do all of this at an unfamiliar airport where the landmarks are not queuing
you as to where you are relative to the runway when you cannot see it.
Nothing to it........... >>
Thanks for saying that, Doug. It's the one thing that seems to have been
missing from this thread. Either we need to practice just as you describe,
fiddling frantically with everything on the checklist in hopes of a restart,
or we need to keep the 4 second delay in our plans to allow for the ensuing
real-life panic. No way is the rehearsal going to be realistic if we
practice an instantaneous response, yet give the engine no atttention during
the drill. Hardly a realistic simulation otherwise. And it would lead one
to false optimism about his chances of success.
Personally, I think a 45 degree crab _with_ the crosswind as soon as you
break ground will increase the chances of successful deadstick turnback.
-Bill Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: new lycoming engine tip |
The Dow Corning Silicone grease is DC-4
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv660wm(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: new lycoming engine tip
>
> In a message dated 5/18/00 7:49:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> <<
> This is a problem when you do not have the rubber
> gasket on the filter lubricated with something other
> than engine oil. Lycoming or Champion recommends
> using Dow Corning # something grease on the rubber
> gasket. The MINERAL oil that we break the engines in
> on is not sufficent to keep the gasket from sticking.
> A tube of the Dow Corning grease can be purchased for
> about $13 USD. If you do not have the Dow Dorning,
> Lubeplate (spelling) will work.
>
> I know this as I had the same problem removing the
> first filter from the engine I rebuilt. I used
> Lubeplate till I purchased the correct product >>
>
> Hi Gary,
>
> You would think that lycoming would put the filter on with the good
"Stuff"
>
> Bernie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | new lycoming engine tip |
I started using silicone lube spray on my oil gaskets. The light oil
flashes off almost instantly leaving the silicone on the gasket. Works
great. No more sticking.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Gary A. Sobek
> Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 07:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: new lycoming engine tip
>
>
> >
> > I made my first oil change (6.2 hours) on my new
> > O-320 yesterday. Had a tough
> > time getting the filter off. Had a 1 inch socket on
> > the rear and a filter
> > wrench on the other side. Finally with two of us
> > using the two devices we
> > were able to get it off, but not before we bent the
> > filter wrench handle.
> > Suggest you remove it and reinstall it before you
> > mount a new engine. Also
> > the lycoming book says to remove the oil screens and
> > clean when changing oil.
> > I do not believe there are any on my D1A engine.
> > Anyone know any difference???
>
> This is a problem when you do not have the rubber
> gasket on the filter lubricated with something other
> than engine oil. Lycoming or Champion recommends
> using Dow Corning # something grease on the rubber
> gasket. The MINERAL oil that we break the engines in
> on is not sufficent to keep the gasket from sticking.
> A tube of the Dow Corning grease can be purchased for
> about $13 USD. If you do not have the Dow Dorning,
> Lubeplate (spelling) will work.
>
> I know this as I had the same problem removing the
> first filter from the engine I rebuilt. I used
> Lubeplate till I purchased the correct product.
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> Flying So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
>
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
| Subject: | Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 21:28:26 -0500 |
test ,test
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder platenut question |
In a message dated 5/18/00 8:49:15 PM Central Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
writes:
<< the bottom plate nut call for 2 FLUSH HEAD rivets forward WHY??????? >>
Hi Bob,
You don't mention which RV model you are building, but on my RV-6A, the plans
call for AN470 AD4-8 universal head rivets not the flush (426). Which RV
model are you building?
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing spars)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT spread on O-320?? |
If you have a carburetor equipped engine 200 degrees is pretty normal. In
fact, I'm surprised they are within 30 at 65%. I wouldn't worry about that.
However, if you have abnormal vibration that would be something to look
into. "Abnormal" being a relative term, as 4 cylinder aviation engines are
not normally referred to as being smooth.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv660wm(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 7:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: EGT spread on O-320??
>
> I have never flown a "aircraft engine" with EGT sensors on all 4 cylinders
> before now. My experience with 2 strokers was to tune the carbs ( one on
each
> cylinder ) it the spread exceeded 50 degrees. My new lycoming seems fine
at
> 65 per cent with about a 30 degree spread, but it will go to 200 at wide
open
> throttle. You can definitely feel the engine take a step up in vibration
when
> the spread exceeds about 100 degrees. Anyone know how to communicate with
> lycoming tech folks? phone numbers or email address?
>
> Bernie Kerr , 8 hours of grinning, 6A N60WM, SE Fla
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson off to OSH |
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
>
> It was Dick Rutan and some others. They were flying an Antonov AN-12, I
> think. It was too heavy for the ice and fell through. They had another
> aircraft with them, much lighter, that flew down to get help.
>
> >From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Jon Johanson off to OSH
> >Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 03:00:55 -0400
> >
> >
> >Somewhat RV related .... somewhat not.
> >
> >Given Jon's next endeavor is to fly his RV "Adelaide to Adelaide via the
> >North Pole", does anyone have any details of a news flash I **thought** I
> >hear about Rutan (and some others???) flying a plane over the North Pole
> >and
> >having to be rescued???
> >
> >Was it an "experimental"/homebuilt plane?
> >
> >If not, will Jon be the FIRST to fly this route in an
> >"experimental"/homebuilt plane and that being his RV?
> >
I've got a serious case of brain fade right now & can't remember his
name, but I'm almost certain that the same guy that flew the 1st
homebuilt around the world (a Thorp T-18) also flew it over the North
Pole a few years later. I believe that the T-18 is in the museum at OSH.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Phillips" <mphill(at)fgi.net> |
I have the following tools for sale (mint condition)
All are AVERY tools.
PT81 Rivet Spacing tool
10741 Jig Fixture Brackets
1042 Edge Rolling Tool
620 Bucking Bar
615 Bucking Bar
1044 Double Edge Deburring Tool (NEW)
500 Fluting Pliers
200 Cleco Pliers
1300 Rivet Cutters
1050 Flute Burring Cutter
1046-1 Swivel Handle
1046-2 Extension Handle
420 Nesco 3/8 Air Drill
1043 Swivel Head Deburring Tool
575 Hand Seamer
1001 Hand Riveting and Dimpling Tool
150 Air Tool Regulator
9425 2 1/2 Hand Rivet Squeezer
1048 Back Riveting Rivet Set
4704 .401 Sha;nk Short 1/8
19360 Countersink Cage
1007 Rivet Guage Set
1008 Rivet Length guage
1022 3/32 Pop Rivet Dimplers
4706 Rivet Set 3/16
All tools are in excellent condition, All were purchased from Avery. Prices
from the current AVERY catalog total 772.25. Will take 20% off for a total
of 615.00. Reply email at mphill(at)fgi.net or at 217-566-2500.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder platenut question |
Hi Bob,
The plans show that the plate nut is riveted to the R-405PD using
AN426AD4-6 rivets before it is attached to the R-602 spar. The flush rivets
allow the R-405PD to lay flat against the R-602 spar. The R-405PD is
riveted to the R-602 spar in 5 places using the AN470AD4-6 rivets. So, the
flush head rivets are sandwiched between the spar and the R-405PD.
You could forego the flushead rivets and just drill through the R-405PD and
the spar and rivet the platenut through the whole mess. In this case,
AN470's of proper length would do the job. This is the direction I went.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 8:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: rudder platenut question
>
> the bottom plate nut call for 2 FLUSH HEAD rivets forward WHY??????? does
the
> rod end go that far into the platenut that there needs to be clearance.
being
> that the bottom rib flange was so narrow and did not meet the 2x rule,
> pre-drilled, not my fault i decided to add a couple on each side of the
> platenut. i am afraid that i may have a royal screw up. help is
appreciated,
> bob in arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard" <bigfoot(at)saber.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 71 Msgs - 05/17/00 |
The subject of turning back after take off. I would like to add my two
cents. I too had a good friend killed in a crash because he did the 180.
All pilots when about to take off should get a mine set on what they will do
on take off if the engine quits. This is easy. nose down air speed up and
fly straight with a small bank to the left or right, 10 degrees, to avoid a
bad landing site.
Dick Johnson
RV8A
Air frame almost complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EGT spread on O-320?? |
In a message dated 5/18/00 6:50:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Rv660wm(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Anyone know how to communicate with
lycoming tech folks? phone numbers or email address? >>
All of this is where it should be: The Yeller Pages.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder platenut question |
Just by looking at my rudder which is on the plane without the bottom
fiberglass piece, I can see that the bottom platenut rivits don't penetrate
thru the R-402 like the others. That's the only reason I can see that they
would be flush. It appears that the 405 & platenut were finished before
riviting to the 402. It's been a few years since I did this! The bottom rod
end bearing is also larger than the other two & the locknut might interfer
with universal rivits. If you've rivited thru all the pieces & the locknut
will still go on the rod end bearing, then I can't see any other problems
with interference when it comes to mounting the rudder.
Larry Adamson RV6A finsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
"Charles Rowbotham"
| Subject: | Re: Airflow performance |
Charles, I called Airflow and they said a pressure test wouldn't hurt the
pump. I plan to put 10 psi on the system from the wing root bulkheads thru
the gascolator and soap test the joints.
Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done,
fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units. Do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 5:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow performance
> Jeff,
>
> We have installed the airflow boost pump, but haven't run it or know about
> it's ability to handle air pressure. We have talked to the company and
they
> were very helpful - I'm sure they would be able to answer your question.
> Please let the "List" know what you find out.
>
> Regarding the Andair Gascolator. We went with their gascolator & fuel
valve
> and wouldn't change our decision. We are running an IO-360 C1E6 convert to
> the A1B6 front sump. IMHO their is no comparison bewteen the Andair
products
> and the less expensive ones. With the loss of Von Alexander we are even
more
> convinced we made the right decision. The extra cost is worth it.
>
> If you have any questions my work number is 860.433.1488
>
> Good Building,
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A (wiring)
> Niantic, CT
> >
> >Listers, I have 2 questions:
> >
> >- I've completed the fuel lines from the wing root bulkheads thru the
> >valve, filter and Airflow performance fuel pump to the firewall bulkhead.
> >I
> >want to run an air pressure leak check on the system, thought about
10psi.
> >since it's on the low pressure side of the pump. Does anyone know if the
> >Airflow performance pump can take air pressure? Any diaphragm, bellows
or
> >such that might rupture?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder platenut question |
In a message dated 5/18/00 10:46:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
rv6bldr(at)home.com writes:
<< he plans show that the plate nut is riveted to the R-405PD using
AN426AD4-6 rivets before it is attached to the R-602 spar. The flush rivets
allow the R-405PD to lay flat against the R-602 spar. The R-405PD is
riveted to the R-602 spar in 5 places using the AN470AD4-6 rivets. So, the
flush head rivets are sandwiched between the spar and the R-405PD.
>>
OK now I am really confused. On my RV -6 plans, page 7PP (dated 03/14/96) in
the upper right hand corner, it shows the R-405PD assembly. It clearly shows
the platenut and an arrow pointing directly at the plate nut rivets that says
"AN470AD4-8" rivets. Am I missing something or do you guys have different
plans than I do. I hope I didn't do it wrong. I am pretty new at this
stuff. I test fit my rudder to the VS and it seems to clear everything fine.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing spars)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
David:
I installed it on a QB & could see that it would be pretty challenging on a
closed wing - unless you install it in the bay with the inspection cover.
This bay also has the bellcrank & tie downs nearby (if memory serves).
Good luck,
Phil 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | volt fluctuation |
I have built and flying rv-4 2760 reg LN-EHB her at Rygge af base in norway.First
flight MAR 16 00.Every ting at the number,but i have one problem.The volt is
fluctuating betven 12 and 15 volt with 1 sec pulses.I have the alternator from
vans and the fixed volt reg. the fluctuatio change a little bit with higer
loads,goes down to 12,5-14,5 volt .My batt is dryfitt a500 12v 30amp. i have no
big loads to put on only fuel pump and com radio.Built the elec system after
wiring diagram page 34 in the building manual.I have checed the wiring 15 times,and
the reg and alternator is working perfect in a test stand.NEED HELP.
EINAR H. BJRNEBEKK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder platenut question |
Eric,
My plans are 1998 version and show flush head rivets. Doesn't have the
revision mark by it, but it must have changed.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: rudder platenut question
>
> In a message dated 5/18/00 10:46:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rv6bldr(at)home.com writes:
>
> << he plans show that the plate nut is riveted to the R-405PD using
> AN426AD4-6 rivets before it is attached to the R-602 spar. The flush
rivets
> allow the R-405PD to lay flat against the R-602 spar. The R-405PD is
> riveted to the R-602 spar in 5 places using the AN470AD4-6 rivets. So,
the
> flush head rivets are sandwiched between the spar and the R-405PD.
> >>
>
> OK now I am really confused. On my RV -6 plans, page 7PP (dated 03/14/96)
in
> the upper right hand corner, it shows the R-405PD assembly. It clearly
shows
> the platenut and an arrow pointing directly at the plate nut rivets that
says
> "AN470AD4-8" rivets. Am I missing something or do you guys have different
> plans than I do. I hope I didn't do it wrong. I am pretty new at this
> stuff. I test fit my rudder to the VS and it seems to clear everything
fine.
>
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing spars)
> Eric's RV-6A
> Construction Page
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder platenut question |
Plans may have changed. Mine----- in which the rivet is flush behind the
spar, are not the newer pre-punched version. The end result is that it won't
matter. Looks like a universal rivet head will clear the lock nut anyway. If
it didn't you could always drill out the rivet & countersink it.
Larry Adamson RV6A- finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
19 May 2000 09:52:42.-0400(at)matronics.com
Hi All,
I had my first experience with Tank Dimple Dies last night. My tanks were done
with regular spring-back dies from cleveland. In addition I have used the
regular dies on one other set of tanks I worked on with no problems. I helped a
local builder last night rivet his tanks with the tank dies used. Please keep in
mind this is my opinion based on my experience last night, so if you feel I'm
wrong, flame away just don't send it to the archives.
The riveting was a mess. The dies opened the rivet holes significantly, this
allowed the rivets to move in the opening AND to move in the dimple since the
flat set would not significantly contact the rivet enough to hold it in place.
In effect you were driving a loose rivet. So bad was the problem that some of
the rivets would fall over against the side of the concave dimple and literally
be cut in two. This happened with only a few hits of the gun. Previously I have
never seen a rivet cut in two. In addition, most of the rivets were either
slightly tipped or actually recessed (less than flush). This means that two
coats of primer and three coats of paint will fill your rivet holes and they
will not be visible at all. I hate it when the rivets are hidden completely, I
work hard on them and want them visible.
In order to make the tank dies work with all the rivets, the rivets were
slightly squeezed in a hand squeezer to fatten them up. This helped and made it
doable but shows that the tank dies just make the hole too big. Who needs the
extra hassle when the proseal is kicking.
I would recomend to anyone pondering this to just use the normal dies, get
plenty of proseal in each hole under the rivet and then push in the rivet with
a
scribe to move out the excess proseal. Squeegie off the excess proseal and
rivet. This will give an absolutely flush rivet that is set straight and is
sealed. It worked beautifully on mine (thanks Sam Ray).
Eric Henson
Fuselage Stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build uncrating question |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>I need advise/pictures on what to build ahead of time in order to take wings
>and fuse directly out of Vans' crates and into some kind of work stand. I
>think I'd like a movable fixture which I can simultaneously store and work
>on both wings (the garage is "finished" and has low ceilings so hanging
>stuff off the ceiling isn't really feasable).
>
>What do folks put the fuses on until they mount the gear? Saw horses?
>Approximately how heavy is the fuse?
>
I don't know what the fuselage weighs, but it is light as you receive it.
It is easily handled by two people, one on each end. It can be placed
on sawhorses, that is what I did, after padding them with pipe
insulation. Others make fancier variations on sawhorses that cradle the
fuselage more securely.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: volt fluctuation-voltage |
Try to get Elect. Bob to assist in you debug operation. Until then, check you
grounds and be sure you have good grounds, many of them and of the proper wire
size. I've solved many annoying elect. problems by going this route.
Also, re-tightning every lug screw in the elect. system & look for broken wire
strands inside a otherwise good wire sleeve & if you soldered anything,
reinspect it for a cold joint or brittle joint ( brittle meaning it subsequently
broke but is still mysteriously hanging there)
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on 05/19/2000 02:50:23 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: volt fluctuation
I have built and flying rv-4 2760 reg LN-EHB her at Rygge af base in
norway.First flight MAR 16 00.Every ting at the number,but i have one
problem.The volt is fluctuating betven 12 and 15 volt with 1 sec pulses.I have
the alternator from vans and the fixed volt reg. the fluctuatio change a little
bit with higer loads,goes down to 12,5-14,5 volt .My batt is dryfitt a500 12v
30amp. i have no big loads to put on only fuel pump and com radio.Built the elec
system after wiring diagram page 34 in the building manual.I have checed the
wiring 15 times,and the reg and alternator is working perfect in a test
stand.NEED HELP. EINAR H. BJRNEBEKK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Quick Build uncrating question |
I made a cradle that fit the bottom of the fuselage under the F-604
bulkhead. I found that I could jack this cradle up high enough to install
the gear legs. I supported the tail with a lightly-constructed brace that I
could raise and lower so as to keep the fuselage perfectly level during the
few times that that is required.
Two people can handle the fuselage without much difficulty. It is about as
heavy as my 17 1/2 foot Grumman canoe, roughly 80 pounds, I would guess.
Stephen Soule
Huntington, VT
permanently working on the FAB air box, RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
I don't know what the fuselage weighs, but it is light as you receive it.
It is easily handled by two people, one on each end. It can be placed
on sawhorses, that is what I did, after padding them with pipe
insulation. Others make fancier variations on sawhorses that cradle the
fuselage more securely.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Vacuum Problem - Solved |
To all,
I solved my vacuum problem last night and for the purposes of the archive, I
thought I'd relate what I found.
First, I have the 1 1/4" UMA gauge that has two ports on it. They are
labeled "V" and "P". The archives contain some conflicting information on
where to connect these fittings. Having tried it every way possible and by
conducting tests on a second vacuum gauge, I can unequivocally state that
the "P" is connected to the "gauge" fitting in the back of the AI or DG.
The "V" fitting can either be left unconnected or connected to the air
filter. I could not get the vacuum gauge to work in any other
configuration.
My problem was with the manner in which I connected the "V" port. Since
there wasn't a fitting on the filter for the smaller gauge hose going to the
vacuum gauge, I put a tee in the "filtered" air line going into the AI.
When I disconnected this line and plugged it, everything worked just fine.
Vacuum came up to 4" at idle and 5" at high throttle fittings.
Best I can determine, the AI pulls much higher volume of air than the vacuum
gauge. As a result of connecting the "V" line to the AI, the AI was
actually pulling enough air from the vacuum gauge (reverse flow) that it was
actually causing the gauge to read low or not at all. In the end, I left
the "V" port unconnected for now. At a later date, I may take one of the
port fittings from the other vacuum gauge and drill and tap the filter
assembly for it. Then I can plumb the "V" directly to the filter.
With that problem fixed, the bird is all ready to go. I'm still waiting for
my FAA inspector to call. First flight should occur any day now. Thanks to
everyone who e-mailed me with suggestions.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Waiting for my "DAS FED""
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: volt fluctuation-voltage |
Does the fluctuation occur in sync with your strobes? I see the same thing.
The voltmeter twitches with the strobes on. Haven't decided whether this is
a problem or not. Other fish to fry at the moment.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> I have built and flying rv-4 2760 reg LN-EHB her at Rygge af base in
> norway.First flight MAR 16 00.Every ting at the number,but i have one
> problem.The volt is fluctuating betven 12 and 15 volt with 1 sec pulses.I
have
> the alternator from vans and the fixed volt reg. the fluctuatio change a
little
> bit with higer loads,goes down to 12,5-14,5 volt .My batt is dryfitt a500
12v
> 30amp. i have no big loads to put on only fuel pump and com radio.Built
the elec
> system after wiring diagram page 34 in the building manual.I have checed
the
> wiring 15 times,and the reg and alternator is working perfect in a test
> stand.NEED HELP. EINAR H. BJRNEBEKK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
FWIW-
I used the tank dies (first tank, working by myself, never done this
before) and had no problems at all- actually quite pleased with the
results- my tech counselor thought they looked good. All holes drilled
#41. I am also using the tank dies on the underlying structure, regular
dies for skins (per many posts over the last couple of years) with
similar results.
Varying mileage somewhat disconcerting...
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark - closing first wing soon, I hope-(just inspected, thanks Bill!)
-6A
> Hi All,
>
> I had my first experience with Tank Dimple Dies last night. My tanks were done
> with regular spring-back dies from cleveland. In addition I have used the
> regular dies on one other set of tanks I worked on with no problems. I helped
a
> local builder last night rivet his tanks with the tank dies used.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build uncrating question |
Lucky Macy wrote:
> ... I'd like a movable fixture which I can simultaneously store and work
> on both wings (the garage is "finished" and has low ceilings so hanging
> stuff off the ceiling isn't really feasable).
You are not thinking right here, Lucky, the garage is a disposable aid to
building an aircraft! For several years you will be building an aircraft
and everything related to the task will have to be considered of little or
no consequence. Put some big eye hooks in the ceiling and get the garage
used to it. My extra sheet metal hangs on a nail in my study. The canopy
used to hang from the study ceiling -- uhh, let me look up here -- yes, the
3/16" eye hooks are still there.
I'm trying to convince my wife that we should move to a place where we could
afford a workshop building and a hangar (here in Silicon Valley it hard to
afford a bungalow). I do hope she can go along.
hal
RV6a - N7HK - RSN (real soon now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Van's alternator - how to hookup |
Van's peewee alternator has a three wire plug and a battery lead. One is
field but the rest? I see marks 'F' and 'N' on the case.
I gave up trying to find the instructions...got to organize my docs.
Anybody have any suggestions on how?
Not clever enough to find in archives. They are fun reading tho!
hal
N7HK - RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's alternator - how to hookup |
Hal,
F goes to the VR Field connection
E is grounded
N is not used
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
kempthornes wrote:
>
> Van's peewee alternator has a three wire plug and a battery lead. One is
> field but the rest? I see marks 'F' and 'N' on the case.
>
> I gave up trying to find the instructions...got to organize my docs.
> Anybody have any suggestions on how?
>
> Not clever enough to find in archives. They are fun reading tho!
>
> hal
> N7HK - RV6a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
I thought the tank dies worked just fine.
Terry Watson
RV-8A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
Mark,
I finished my left tank a couple of weeks ago and used the "tank" dies from
Cleveland also. I had no problems either and certainly nothing like being
cut in half. I used them on the skin and ribs both. Mine came out looking
quite good, except for two where I slipped the bar on excess proseal. I did
them all myself.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Dies
>
> FWIW-
>
> I used the tank dies (first tank, working by myself, never done this
> before) and had no problems at all- actually quite pleased with the
> results- my tech counselor thought they looked good. All holes drilled
> #41. I am also using the tank dies on the underlying structure, regular
> dies for skins (per many posts over the last couple of years) with
> similar results.
>
> Varying mileage somewhat disconcerting...
> >From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - closing first wing soon, I hope-(just inspected, thanks Bill!)
> -6A
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I had my first experience with Tank Dimple Dies last night. My tanks
were done
> > with regular spring-back dies from cleveland. In addition I have used
the
> > regular dies on one other set of tanks I worked on with no problems. I
helped a
> > local builder last night rivet his tanks with the tank dies used.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Operational Limitations on Experimental Aircraft |
(was Glasair)
At 10:54 AM 5/18/00 HST, you wrote:
>All initial contacts on radio are supposed to include the fact that you are
>an experimental aircraft. I guess the ommission of approach was an
>oversight. The reason for that is that the controller is supposed to route
>you away from densely populated areas if possible. Frankly, a lot of them
>let it go in one ear and out the other. Those guys get very overwhelmed
>with their workload on occasion.
The ommission of approach was NOT an oversight, and the controller is NOT
supposed to route you away from densely populated areas. The requirement
to use "experimental" only applies to your initial contact with a TOWER.
There is no requirement or reason to continue to use the word in subsequent
transmissions. There is NEVER a reason or advantage to advising an enroute
(ARTCC) or approach controller - we couldn't care less and DO NOT have any
responsibility to route you away from populated areas. I would try to
approve a specific route if requested, but am "UNABLE" to route you around
populated areas as they are not depicted on my radar map and I have no idea
where they are. It doesn't matter how busy we get, it just doesn't have
anything to do with ATC.
- Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Young Eagle Flight Credits wanted |
If you have flown more than 10 Young Eagles this year you should be
receiving or have received an accounting of the number of flights. Each of
those Young Eagles flight nets you a credit worth $1. The only place it can
be spent is to pay to half the cost of sending a young person interested in
aviation to EAA Air Academy or Aviation Advanced Leadership Camp being held
concurrently with the Oshkosh AirVenture.
My EAA Chapter 75 has contracted to send two young CAP persons. This is
costing approximately $1900 total. To date with the assistance of the local
FBO, a local newspaper and the local pilots association, we have about
$1400 cash towards our goal.
We are looking for donations of Young Eagle Credits to complete our effort.
IF you could donate your Young Eagle Credits it would be deeply appreciated.
Remember they have no value except for this program and expire at the end of
August. If you or your chapter is not involved in sending a person to this
Aviation Leadership conference, the Chapter that mans the Emergency Aircraft
Repair
could certainly put them to work.
As I understand it, all it takes is for you to sign the back of the
certificate saying that you would like to donate your credits to EAA Chapter
75 and send it off to Oshkosh.
Thanks for your help and consideration in promoting aviation for our youth.
Cy Galley - Editor, EAA Chapter 75; The Landings and Chair, Emergency
Aircraft Repair, AirVenture
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
>> cut
Unlike the movies, once both engines quit, there was no hydraulic pressure
to the flight controls, so the pilot has NO CONTROL of
the plane and could stay with the plane to miss the school, church, etc.
>> cut
What I meant to say was "he WOULD NOT stay with the plane."
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/19/00 10:37:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
VFrazier(at)usi.edu writes:
<< http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html >>
Thanks Vince,
I did not locate this site in the Yeller pages. It answered my question
regarding the 200 degree spread explicitely.
Bernie Kerr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
OK, I have what will probably turn out to be a stupid question, but hey, may
as well ask.
I have my fuel tanks completed (by Evan Johnson, by the way and they look
great!) and am about to mount them to the wing spar. I did not rivet the
inboard three main wing ribs, intending to do them at the end as I rivet the
main skins on...the issue of course is that mounting the tanks will cover up
the rivet holes so I'm thinking that I either need to go ahead and rivet the
main ribs on, mount the tanks and do the best I can in riveting the main
skins on or mount the tanks, remove the tanks, skin the wings and then
remount the tanks at the end. The latter option would be fine except for
the difficulty in getting to the Z channel mounting bolts....I'm sure I'm
missing something...
Thanks
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Wings (duh)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
Johnny Johnson wrote:
>
>
>
> Good points, Doug... I'm another defender of don't turn back and have been
> watching this thread with interest. While it's true that you _might_ pull
> some wild thing off, it's much too easy to get ourselves into a situation
> where our superior skills are overchallenged in a low-altitude, low speed,
> engine out 180 degree turn. Remember, airplanes are easier to fix than your
> body... preserve your body at the expense of the airplane...
>
> For those of you considering turning back, here are a couple of points to
> ponder:
>
> 1. If there is any wind, the problem is compounded... you'll recall that
> you need to accelerate the airplane in a downwind turn... and dropping the
> nose is the only way to do that in this situation... a very dreary choice.
>
I to wish to say Doug as always very good advice. Now Johnny I am just
little bit confused by your statement that you need to acclerate the
airplane in a in a downwind turn? I DON'T WANT TO START A UPWIND
DOWN WIND TURN DEBATE but any time an engine quits up wind or down
wind I need to drop the nose to maintain a certain airspeed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
In a message dated 05/19/2000 3:10:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bbds(at)wiktel.com writes:
<< you'll recall that
you need to accelerate the airplane in a downwind turn.. >>
Oh, man, are you going to catch it for saying that.. get your Nomex flame
suit on...!
The Deadly Downwind Turn lives!
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Operational Limitations on Experimental Aircraft(was |
Glasair)
Michael Hartmann wrote:
>
>
> At 10:54 AM 5/18/00 HST, you wrote:
>
> >All initial contacts on radio are supposed to include the fact that you are
> >an experimental aircraft. I guess the ommission of approach was an
> >oversight. The reason for that is that the controller is supposed to route
> >you away from densely populated areas if possible. Frankly, a lot of them
> >let it go in one ear and out the other. Those guys get very overwhelmed
> >with their workload on occasion.
>
> The ommission of approach was NOT an oversight, and the controller is NOT
> supposed to route you away from densely populated areas. The requirement
> to use "experimental" only applies to your initial contact with a TOWER.
> There is no requirement or reason to continue to use the word in subsequent
> transmissions. There is NEVER a reason or advantage to advising an enroute
> (ARTCC) or approach controller - we couldn't care less and DO NOT have any
> responsibility to route you away from populated areas. I would try to
> approve a specific route if requested, but am "UNABLE" to route you around
> populated areas as they are not depicted on my radar map and I have no idea
> where they are. It doesn't matter how busy we get, it just doesn't have
> anything to do with ATC.
>
> - Mike
>
I live in the back yard of Lancair and Glassair and hardly ever
hear either of those aircraft use the word experimental. I ask the
guys in the tower here at HIO one time if they cared if I said
RV or experimental and they did not care. Now the problem I have had
with using the RV designation is that unless it is really pronounced
clearly they sometimes think I am saying army.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Tanks |
Hi Mark,
Glad to hear that you've got your tanks back and that they came out
satisfactorily. I was in exactly the same situation a month or so ago and this
is what worked for me: Go ahead and rivet the three inboard ribs to the spars
(main & rear). Permanently mount the tanks (bolts & screws). Rivet the top
main skins on. I was able to use solid rivets on 100% of these holes. On the
inboard bottom main wing skin(s) I was able to use solid rivets on all but about
a dozen holes (per wing). These were drilled out to 7/64" and got MK-319-BS pop
rivets. Exactly how many holes will have to get pop rivets will depend on the
contorting abilities of your bucker, but it should be about a dozen. Don't
sweat those. No one will see them, the weight & strength penalty is negligible,
and it beats trying to shoehorn those ribs into place one by one without
seriously deforming (bending) them in the process. Keep building!
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
bulkheads & floor ribs done, building fuse jig
"Mark D. Dickens" wrote:
>
> OK, I have what will probably turn out to be a stupid question, but hey, may
> as well ask.
>
> I have my fuel tanks completed (by Evan Johnson, by the way and they look
> great!) and am about to mount them to the wing spar. I did not rivet the
> inboard three main wing ribs, intending to do them at the end as I rivet the
> main skins on...the issue of course is that mounting the tanks will cover up
> the rivet holes so I'm thinking that I either need to go ahead and rivet the
> main ribs on, mount the tanks and do the best I can in riveting the main
> skins on or mount the tanks, remove the tanks, skin the wings and then
> remount the tanks at the end. The latter option would be fine except for
> the difficulty in getting to the Z channel mounting bolts....I'm sure I'm
> missing something...
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark Dickens
> Germantown, TN
> RV-8 Wings (duh)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Tanks |
Hi mark
I ended up riveting in all ribs before skinning. Found that I could
quite easily
rivet the skins on.
I ended up polishing the head of a hammer with a shortened handle.
I could now stick the handle through the holes in the ribs and hold the
hammer/bucking bar by the handle. I used my second hand to steady the
hammer head and stop it from excessive bouncing.
I am 6.6 and have large hands, got it done with a minimum of skin
abrasions.
I ended up installing the tank before riviting the skins on but after
riveting the 3 inboard ribs.
Hope this helps
Gert
"Mark D. Dickens" wrote:
>
>
> OK, I have what will probably turn out to be a stupid question, but hey, may
> as well ask.
>
> I have my fuel tanks completed (by Evan Johnson, by the way and they look
> great!) and am about to mount them to the wing spar. I did not rivet the
> inboard three main wing ribs, intending to do them at the end as I rivet the
> main skins on...the issue of course is that mounting the tanks will cover up
> the rivet holes so I'm thinking that I either need to go ahead and rivet the
> main ribs on, mount the tanks and do the best I can in riveting the main
> skins on or mount the tanks, remove the tanks, skin the wings and then
> remount the tanks at the end. The latter option would be fine except for
> the difficulty in getting to the Z channel mounting bolts....I'm sure I'm
> missing something...
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark Dickens
> Germantown, TN
> RV-8 Wings (duh)
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Tanks |
I would just rivet in the main ribs. Its not to hard to buck all those rivets for
the skin. I was able to rivet/buck them all with no pop rivets. It just takes
some twisting and turning of the wrist to get to them all. It really no big
deal.
-Jeff
Atlanta
RV-8 Fuselage Stuff
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 13:14:14 -0500
>
>OK, I have what will probably turn out to be a stupid question, but hey, may
>as well ask.
>
>I have my fuel tanks completed (by Evan Johnson, by the way and they look
>great!) and am about to mount them to the wing spar. I did not rivet the
>inboard three main wing ribs, intending to do them at the end as I rivet the
>main skins on...the issue of course is that mounting the tanks will cover up
>the rivet holes so I'm thinking that I either need to go ahead and rivet the
>main ribs on, mount the tanks and do the best I can in riveting the main
>skins on or mount the tanks, remove the tanks, skin the wings and then
>remount the tanks at the end. The latter option would be fine except for
>the difficulty in getting to the Z channel mounting bolts....I'm sure I'm
>missing something...
>
>Thanks
>
>Mark Dickens
>Germantown, TN
>RV-8 Wings (duh)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Cardinal paint info |
A few weeks ago, as I prepared to begin my fuselage kit, I began
thinking about an interior paint for the cockpit area. I knew that I
wanted it to match the gray powder-coated parts (Cardinal #230) supplied
by Van's, but I didn't know too much else.
I wound up going back and forth a few times with Cardinal before
settling on an acrylic enamel paint, colored to match the powder-coating
and formulated in a spray can for ease of application. I knew that I
was possibly taking a chance with the spray can vs. HVLP application,
but I thought I'd try it and see. The paint arrived today.
I prepared two sample pieces of aluminum: one primed with the Tempo
spray can zinc chromate that I've been using on the project thus far,
and the other left bare. The paint went on effortlessly. I just
checked the samples (after 1.5 hours drying time at ~68F) and found them
both dry. The paint is smooth and even, with no orange peeling and is a
perfect match (according to the Mk. I eyeball) for my powder-coated
parts.
The part number from Cardinal for this paint is: 4108-GR230. Their
minimum order is six cans. I ordered a dozen at $4.80 per can.
Bargain!
I hope this info is useful to someone at some point.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
building fuse jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Operational Limitations on Experimental Aircraft(was Glasair) |
After reading what you say and rereading what I said I do partially
apologize. I was not trying to make the ATC guys sound bad, just trying to
show that they get extremely busy. You are correct about the contact. I
have a memo somewhere that does state that ATC is supposed to route
experiemtnals around "Densely" populated areas but am unable to locate it so
until I do locate it I will retract my statement.
Mike Robertson
>
>Michael Hartmann wrote:
> >
> >
> > At 10:54 AM 5/18/00 HST, you wrote:
>
> >
> > >All initial contacts on radio are supposed to include the fact that you
>are
> > >an experimental aircraft. I guess the ommission of approach was an
> > >oversight. The reason for that is that the controller is supposed to
>route
> > >you away from densely populated areas if possible. Frankly, a lot of
>them
> > >let it go in one ear and out the other. Those guys get very
>overwhelmed
> > >with their workload on occasion.
> >
> > The ommission of approach was NOT an oversight, and the controller is
>NOT
> > supposed to route you away from densely populated areas. The
>requirement
> > to use "experimental" only applies to your initial contact with a TOWER.
> > There is no requirement or reason to continue to use the word in
>subsequent
> > transmissions. There is NEVER a reason or advantage to advising an
>enroute
> > (ARTCC) or approach controller - we couldn't care less and DO NOT have
>any
> > responsibility to route you away from populated areas. I would try to
> > approve a specific route if requested, but am "UNABLE" to route you
>around
> > populated areas as they are not depicted on my radar map and I have no
>idea
> > where they are. It doesn't matter how busy we get, it just doesn't have
> > anything to do with ATC.
> >
> > - Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cardinal paint info |
lucky macy wrote:
>
> thank you very much for the info.
You're welcome. Having only just started my kit, it feels good to be able to
share something useful with the list. :-)
> i like the color of my powder coated parts and think it would look good all
> over the interior so this is great news!
I felt the same way and was very psyched at how well the samples came out.
BTW, I neglected to mention in my first post that there is a barely discernable
difference between the two samples, such that the primed sample appears ever so
slightly tinted. It's so slight that I can't even say that it's tinted yellow
(the color of my chromate), just that it's not precisely the color of the other
sample. If I didn't have the two side by side to stare at, I'd never have
noticed it. This could very possibly have something to do with the thickness
(not very) of the coat I applied. Further experimentation is called for...
> Question: are you are going to or already have completely primed the
> interior of the fuse and you are going to shoot the whole thing with this
> paint or are you shooting everything regardless of whether you primed it or
> not as a result of this test?
Good question. I have not primed that whole fuse interior already, as I've
been priming as I go along. The only fuse pieces I've primed thus far are the
ones I've completed: the bulkheads and the floor rib structure. My plan up to
this point was to prime everything and then spray the gray from the rear
baggage compartment to the firewall inclusive. I won't be spraying the gray in
the extreme aft end of the fuse, mostly because it won't be visible and I don't
want to waste the paint. The real question now, for me anyway, is whether or
not to prime the areas to be covered by the enamel or simply to apply the gray
over the bare aluminum. Hmm... I'm thinking mostly about weight and
conservation of effort here, as opposed to corrosion protection. Not to start
any primer wars, but I'm open to suggestions.
> wonder how it will go over the SW vari-prime the QBs come with...
Don't know, but Cardinal should be able to tell you. BTW, I left off the
leading 'A' in the paint's description. It's actually: A-4108-GR230.
Best Regards,
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
"Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com (Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP
> Hi All,
>
> I had my first experience with Tank Dimple Dies last night. My tanks were done
> with regular spring-back dies from cleveland. In addition I have used the
> regular dies on one other set of tanks I worked on with no problems. I helped
a
> local builder last night rivet his tanks with the tank dies used. Please keep
in
> mind this is my opinion based on my experience last night, so if you feel I'm
> wrong, flame away just don't send it to the archives.
>
> The riveting was a mess. The dies opened the rivet holes significantly, this
> allowed the rivets to move in the opening AND to move in the dimple since the
> flat set would not significantly contact the rivet enough to hold it in place.
> In effect you were driving a loose rivet. So bad was the problem that some of
> the rivets would fall over against the side of the concave dimple and literally
> be cut in two. This happened with only a few hits of the gun. Previously I have
> never seen a rivet cut in two. In addition, most of the rivets were either
> slightly tipped or actually recessed (less than flush). This means that two
> coats of primer and three coats of paint will fill your rivet holes and they
> will not be visible at all. I hate it when the rivets are hidden completely,
I
> work hard on them and want them visible.
>
> In order to make the tank dies work with all the rivets, the rivets were
> slightly squeezed in a hand squeezer to fatten them up. This helped and made
it
> doable but shows that the tank dies just make the hole too big. Who needs the
> extra hassle when the proseal is kicking.
>
> I would recomend to anyone pondering this to just use the normal dies, get
> plenty of proseal in each hole under the rivet and then push in the rivet with
a
> scribe to move out the excess proseal. Squeegie off the excess proseal and
> rivet. This will give an absolutely flush rivet that is set straight and is
> sealed. It worked beautifully on mine (thanks Sam Ray).
Wow!
After very successfully using the tank dies not only on the tanks of my
RV-6, but much of the substructure as well, and seeing other local
builders successfully use the the dies, I am at a loss as to how to
explain what happened with the above referenced tank.
I thought I had figured out how to bugger up rivets every possible way,
but I have NEVER seen a rivet get cut in two by a dimple! Eric, this is
quite an accomplishment!
For the edification of new builders who may now be completely befuddled
over whether or not to use tank dies, the only difference in a "tank"
die and a "regular" die is that the tank die will set the dimple a few
(Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools told me it was 0.007" with their
tank dies) thousandths of an inch deeper than the conventional die. The
pilots of both dies are the same diameter. When you rivet the tank
together, usually a small amount of sealer oozes up through the rivet
hole and under the head of the flush rivet. The tendency is for the
rivet to get pushed out of the dimple a tiny amount, but it is far
enough to keep the rivet from seating perfectly flush in the rivet.
By the way, don't be concerned about the sealer "kicking". That stuff
stays gooey much longer than you can tolerate working on a tank for one
session.....
Now admittedly, hundreds of tanks have been successfully built with
regular dies, including one of mine. Good dimpling and riveting
technique will result in very nice tanks. However, the tank dies
definitely work. I found the tank that I assembled had rivets that were
a little tighter in the dimples and were completely flush with the
skins. While the rivets that were in the regular dimples were not a
problem, they were not set quite as deeply.
We are splitting gnat's eyelashes here. The tank dies have a record of
working very well for numerous builders, and I liked using them for
substructure on the remainder of the plane since it seemed to enable the
regularly dimpled skins to seat tightly against the tank dimpled ribs
and bulkheads. I kept the tank dies in one pair of sqweezers, and the
regular dies in the C-frame.
I don't know what happened in Eric's case since this is first time I
have ever heard of such a calamity. I sounds as if something went very
wrong in the dimpling or riveting process, but I am hesitate to blame it
on the tank dies. Hopefully the tanks will be fuel-tight and will
provide long reliable service in spite of their auspicious beginnings.
More ramblings of mine concerning tank dies can be found here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/tankdies.html
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, internal engine parts back in the shop, crankshaft
good (yeah!), getting ready to assemble engine)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Can anyone give me the panel space requirements for: King KX125, KLX135A
and KT76C radios?
George Kilishek
#80006
Waiting for finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
>
>
> I had my first experience with Tank Dimple Dies last night. My tanks were done
> with regular spring-back dies from cleveland. In addition I have used the
> regular dies on one other set of tanks I worked on with no problems. I helped
a
> local builder last night rivet his tanks with the tank dies used. Please keep
in
> mind this is my opinion based on my experience last night, so if you feel I'm
> wrong, flame away just don't send it to the archives.
>
> The riveting was a mess. The dies opened the rivet holes significantly, this
> allowed the rivets to move in the opening AND to move in the dimple since the
> flat set would not significantly contact the rivet enough to hold it in place.
> In effect you were driving a loose rivet. So bad was the problem that some of
> the rivets would fall over against the side of the concave dimple and literally
> be cut in two. This happened with only a few hits of the gun. Previously I have
> never seen a rivet cut in two. In addition, most of the rivets were either
> slightly tipped or actually recessed (less than flush). This means that two
> coats of primer and three coats of paint will fill your rivet holes and they
> will not be visible at all. I hate it when the rivets are hidden completely,
I
> work hard on them and want them visible.
Way back in the dark ages when I knew little about building I had a simular experience
durring construction of my rudder. I dimpled and rivited my rudder and
then I noticed that the #40 female dimple die looked the
same as my #30 female die. In fact they were exactly the same. I called the tool
supplier and they shipped the proper female die and my dimples and rivets looked
much better with the proper dies.
I have also tried to set AN426AD3-x rivets in #30 dimples and get about the same
results as your tank dies are giving. Are you sure they are tank dies and not
#30?
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new lycoming engine tip |
I didn't see a response to your question about oil screens on a D1A engine.
The one Lycoming is refering to is the one at the rear of the oil sump,
about the size and shape of a small cigar. Just takes a second to remove,
clean, replace, and safety wire. I think it is well worth the effort and
peace of mind. I think it completes the process of checking for metal
deposits (by cutting open the spin-on filter).
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv660wm(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 10:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: new lycoming engine tip
>
> I made my first oil change (6.2 hours) on my new O-320 yesterday. Had a
tough
> time getting the filter off. Had a 1 inch socket on the rear and a filter
> wrench on the other side. Finally with two of us using the two devices we
> were able to get it off, but not before we bent the filter wrench handle.
> Suggest you remove it and reinstall it before you mount a new engine. Also
> the lycoming book says to remove the oil screens and clean when changing
oil.
> I do not believe there are any on my D1A engine. Anyone know any
difference???
>
> Bernie Kerr, N60WM was RV grinning this morning just after sunrise flying
> over the coast line at 6500 feet over patchy cumulus and talking to miami
> center checking my x-p !!! You guys that aren't flying, keep at it and it
> will eventually happen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Plate Nut Question |
i started this whole mess-forgive me. like an idiot or should i say rookie
builder i drilled out some beautiful 470's and slightly countered the plate
that attaches to the spar. i ended up putting in flush head 1/8's of course,
but now i see i should have waited until i got responses from you all. I
SHOULD HAVE LEFT AS WAS.
chalk it up to another lesson learned. thanx for all the advise, bob in
arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Big, big dimple dies |
Hello everyone,
On one of my shopping trips this week I came across a bunch of dimple
dies with 3/8" shanks. They came out of a major aerospace manufacturing
plant and are designed for some large squeezers/dimpling machines,
although I'm not sure which ones. The sizes, though, are 3/32, 1/8,
3/16, #6 screw, #8 screw, & a couple #10 screws. These dies are in mint
condition.
I've seen posts in the past from individuals who have some of the larger
squeezers/dimplers. If any individual, or particularily any Chapter or
building group, has access to a tool that takes this size dimple dies,
pls. email me off list & I'll donate a set of the dies to you.
Blue Skies!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new lycoming engine tip |
> Lycoming or Champion recommends
>using Dow Corning # something grease on the rubber
>gasket. The MINERAL oil that we break the engines in
>on is not sufficent to keep the gasket from sticking.
>Gary A. Sobek
Dow Corning #4. It works well for allowing easy removal of oil filters.
A light film of DC4, spin on the filter until the gasket contacts the
housing and turn another 3/4 of a turn. I draw a circle on the top (12
o'clock position) of the filter to gauge the 3/4 turn.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | RV-8A cabin heat |
To all you 8Aers out there. Where in the heck did you put the knob for your
cabin heat???
I'm not lucky enough to have those cool landing gear towers to put all my push
/
pull knobs and there is no more room on my panel ( of course ).
I'm desperate here!
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
Austin, Texas
RV-8AQ ( Fuse & Finish )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
In a message dated 5/19/00 7:29:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
aeronut58(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< Can anyone give me the panel space requirements for: King KX125, KLX135A
and KT76C radios? >>
The KX125 and KLX135A are each 6.25"W x 2.00"H x 13.00"L
The KT76A is 6.25"W x 1.30"H x 11.20"L
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dies and Dimpling |
I was talking with Tom Green today at Vans about a goofup I had made. During
the conversation I mentioned to him that I had used a #41 drill bit when
drilling my holes for riviting. He said this disturbed him and he was
wondering how this sort of heresay had gotten around.
The reason we should stick with the #40 bit is that the rivet is suppose to
swell in the hole and fill up that extra space that we all think shouldn't be
there. In reality the looseness of the rivet in the hole is a good thing if
your using the correct length rivet.
As Tom said if we are going to use the #41 bit then we should use a slightly
shorter rivet because it doesn't have to swell at all. But the swelling of
the rivet in the hole is a good thing and helps hold parts together.
Just my 2 cents worth.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Tanks |
Hello,
Just finished up my wings (RV8). I left the tanks off (no need after
final fit verification as they get in the way) and left the three inboard
ribs out until both top and bottom skins were riveted. Then working
inboard one rib at a time, I riveted them on. They bow slightly which
allows them to fit into position even with the top and bottom skins on.
Don't forget the wing doubler!
If you haven't started yet, practice inserting the ribs with the skins
clecoed on.
Oh clecoes inboard of the fourth rib will make it difficult to insert the
ribs so leave them off.
Rivet sequence for bottom....Top is already riveted, I assume.
1. Starting with 4th rib, cleco outboard both skin sections (to keep the
spar from possibly shifting though I doubt it can)
2. Starting at 4th rib start riveting outboard till just before the junction.
3. Now, one at a time, insert each inboard rib and rivet in place starting
with the spar attach points. Then the skin to ribs and finish up with the
skin to spar.
4. When you finish that, pick up where you left off with the outboard
progression and it should go ok.
Tip. Rivet the least accessible rivet locations first which is near the
rear spar. The skin is pretty flexible, at least enough to get the
riveting done. You will need a helper for this part, unless you are a lot
more experienced at riveting than I.
Confession here...When I was done, I completely peeled off the plastic on
one of the wings to see what it looked like. Quite a motivational
rush...try it.
Good luck and regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 Fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)dellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A cabin heat |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 9:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A cabin heat
>
>
> To all you 8Aers out there. Where in the heck did you put the knob for
your
> cabin heat???
Jim, I put both knobs (cabin heat & carb heat) on the left lower instrument
subpanel, right below where most people put the air vent. An alternative
would be to make a bracket out of a piece of angle and attach it to the side
of the throttle quadrant. Bill Pagan did this and was kind enough to send
me a picture of his installation. I'll try to find it and send it to you
tonight if you are interested.
> I'm not lucky enough to have those cool landing gear towers to put all my
push /
> pull knobs and there is no more room on my panel ( of course ).
Yeah, but you have so much more leg room without those towers!
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A cabin heat |
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> To all you 8Aers out there. Where in the heck did you put the knob for your
> cabin heat???
>
> I'm not lucky enough to have those cool landing gear towers to put all my push
/
> pull knobs and there is no more room on my panel ( of course ).
I could swear that Van's yellow -8A (N58VA) has the gear towers. Was it originally
an -8, before being converted to an -8A? Enquiring minds, etc. etc.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
building fuse jig
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build uncrating question |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
>
> I
> think I'd like a movable fixture (snp)
> What do folks put the fuses on until they mount the gear? Saw horses?
> Approximately how heavy is the fuse?
(snip)
Lucky--IMHO well padded saw horses are really only useful for supporting the
wings flat at waist level, which you don't need to do very often. What I
would suggest is going to Home Depot and buying a dozen or so "stud grade"
2x4s, a box of drywall screws, and some industrial casters (I found these
for about a buck apiece).
You can slap together stands for the wings with a circular saw, 2x4s,
drywall screws,and an electric drill in no time. Make two common posts
about the height of the wing chord about eight feet apart (so they stand
vertically). About a foot or so from the longitudinal centerline of this,
on either side, make another post standing up about a foot. From either end
this will look like an inverted capital "T" with serifs. Staple a piece of
scrap carpet to the top of each post, with enough slack between them so that
it forms a loop where you can put the wing, leading edge down. This stand
will hold both wings simultaneously, back to back, and if you put casters on
it, you can mvoe it easily.
I'm not explaining this very well, but I hope you get the picture. None of
the dimension are critical.
For the QB fuse, it comes with the wooden "false spar" already installed. I
bolted two 3' pieces of 2x4 to the spars vertically so that the longerons
were roughly at my waist height, and then "sandwiched" the bottom ends of
these vertical supports between two more 2x4s, making a very sturdy
squared-off "U." I also installed the tailspring right away and put casters
on the "U" I can easily move the fuse around with one hand by grabbing the
tailspring and moving it like a wheelbarow. I can also easily tip the whole
thing 90 degrees on its side when I want. If I had made the vertical pieces
a little longer, I could have turned it upside down too, but I wasn't
thinking.
Total investment maybe $20 and 20 minutes.
Hope this helps
James Freeman
P.S. I had lots of help unloading the fuse and wing crates, but I was able
to uncrate them by myself without any trouble, just made a huge mess
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Goldston" <goldston(at)netside.com> |
| Subject: | volt fluctuation |
Einar,
The earlier reference to "Electric Bob" was good advice. Read his paper
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grnding.pdf
posted on his website. The fourth page of this paper talks about your
specific problem. I had a Piper Aircraft that had the mentioned problem
with voltage fluctuations. If you are not versed in the arcane electrical
arts then find a friend who is an electron pusher to help you.
Dan Goldston,
RV6 slider, fuselage.
Einar writes:
I have built and flying rv-4 2760 reg LN-EHB her at Rygge af base in
norway.First flight MAR 16 00.Every ting at the number,but i have one
problem.The volt is fluctuating betven 12 and 15 volt with 1 sec pulses.I
have
the alternator from vans and the fixed volt reg. the fluctuatio change a
little
bit with higer loads,goes down to 12,5-14,5 volt .My batt is dryfitt a500
12v
30amp. i have no big loads to put on only fuel pump and com radio.Built the
elec
system after wiring diagram page 34 in the building manual.I have checed the
wiring 15 times,and the reg and alternator is working perfect in a test
stand.NEED HELP. EINAR H. BJRNEBEKK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Terra/Trimble TRT250D Transponder |
ROB
GET IN LINE
I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR THAT TRANSPONDER FOR 6 MONTHS NOW.
GOOD LUCK
SCOTT
TAMPA
RV6A TIPPER
N015EY RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't turn back |
I can honestly say I've enjoyed this thread and have had a lot of good
info thrown my way, however, I, like Doug Rozendaal, will stick to the
way I was taught...basically straight ahead. It seems like to lowest
amount of workload. I'm just an average pilot (530 TT) and I'd be in
the turf long before remembering all those things I'd have to do to turn
back.
Now THESE are the kinds of threads we SHOULD be seeing here even though
it's not strictly RV related as most of us are still flying un-RV
related stuff while building. I want to stick around at least long
enough to make that first flight in my -4.
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Tanks |
Here is an easy way to do the wing skins (RV8)
Leave out only the most inboard wing rib. Rivet the top skin on. Rivet the
bottom skin on from the rear spar toward the main spar. You can peel back
the skin and get to the rear spar rivets easily, do them first. leave clecos
in up about six inches above the spar. That keeps the skin alligned. Just
keep moving up, toward the main spar moving the clecos as you go. When you
can't reach in from the top any more finish up from the ends and inspection
openings. When the skin is all on slip in the inboard rib, squeeze the
rivets and you are done. All solid rivets, no forcing in two or three
inboard ribs and it goes quick. But it takes two guys, but so do the other
methods. Good Luck!
Rich Crosley #80948
Palmdale, CA
RV8 Finishing second wing and starting fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dies and Dimpling |
I believe there is nothing wrong with using a #41 drill for 3/32 rivets. It
is in fact a common practice. Many builders prefer the #41 when dimpling
because the resulting dimpled hole is smaller and more nearly the correct
size.
As for using a slightly shorter rivet, it makes no significant difference. I
base this statement on a calculation of the rivet length needed to fill the
volume of a hole through two pieces of 0.032 stock. In the case of the #41
hole, the 3/32 (0.094) rivet length starts out at 0.067 inch, and when upset
it will exactly fill the volume of the #41 hole which, ideally, is 0.0096
in diameter. In the case of the #40 (0.098) hole, the rivet length to fill
the hole when upset is 0.070.
The rivet for the #41 hole therefore needs to be 0.004 shorter than the
rivet for the #40 hole. Now really guys, wouldn't you agree that a 0.004
difference in rivet length is insignificant?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, May 20, 2000 12:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Dies and Dimpling
>
>I was talking with Tom Green today at Vans about a goofup I had made.
During
>the conversation I mentioned to him that I had used a #41 drill bit when
>drilling my holes for riviting. He said this disturbed him and he was
>wondering how this sort of heresay had gotten around.
>The reason we should stick with the #40 bit is that the rivet is suppose to
>swell in the hole and fill up that extra space that we all think shouldn't
be
>there. In reality the looseness of the rivet in the hole is a good thing if
>your using the correct length rivet.
>As Tom said if we are going to use the #41 bit then we should use a
slightly
>shorter rivet because it doesn't have to swell at all. But the swelling of
>the rivet in the hole is a good thing and helps hold parts together.
>Just my 2 cents worth.
>
>John Danielson
>Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
> Many builders prefer the #41 when dimpling
> because the resulting dimpled hole is smaller and more nearly the correct
> size.
I suspect that this is one of those things where some builder somewhere
tried it and found that the rivet fit in the hole tighter after the dimpling
so therefore that must be the 'correct size'. At first glance that would
seem to be correct, but considering the nature of rivets and what they are
supposed to do when pounded from one side and flattened from the other it
seems a bit of a moot point to me. The rivet fills out the #40 hole just
fine, that is it's job. Making a tighter fit might make it feel better to
the builder and any placebo that makes one feel better is great medicine no
matter how you look at it. Fact is, it's not necessary to use a #41 instead
of a #40, the rivet fills the space.....as it should, as it was designed to
do, as it does in every military aircraft ever rivetted together, as it has
for 50 years......but like I said, if it makes you feel like you're building
a 'tighter' airframe.....go for it. I'll bet not a soul has ever done a
tear apart test on the #41 hole versus the #40 hole and found any difference
at all. There are reasons why Van's entire staff snickers at the
information passed around on this list, some of it is great but alot of it
comes from someone trying to out smart the rest of the world. I think
Scott's exact words to me were 'on that list there are seeds, and there is
fertilizer.......and believe me more of it is fertilizer than seed.....you
would be better off setting your computer on fire.' I don't quite believe
it's that bad.......... most of the time.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy Primers |
Does the Azko primer provide water protection? I notice they call it an
interior primer. I asked the folks at Aircraft Spruce and they thought that
it was called interior because it fades quickly. I have a couple of test
parts out in the weather here on the coast. They are bleached by the sun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Any second thoughts |
Second thoughts? Yes you should have second thoughts. In 20 years have
seen people die skydiving, it made me sad and angry. I cussed and swore
and wondered why they had to die. I thought about what caused them to
die for weeks after and tried to better understand how to prevent it
from happening to me, my friends and others that I skydive with. In the
end I pack up my rig and go up again because I would not be the same
person I am if I did not. I might die in a car accident or of a heart
attack tomorrow but today I am living by skydiving or flying my RV.
Frank Smidler
Rick Osgood wrote:
>
>
> Another RV lost?? Does anybody else have second thoughts about continuing to
> build their RV after reading about these accidents? How do you reassure
> yourself and your family that you are not endangering yourself or your
> family?
>
> Just questions that sit in the back of my mind....
>
> Rick Osgood
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Thought I would post this for those who are wondering about the difference
in tire diameters causing wear on the top of the wheel pants.
I removed the original equipment tires on my RV6 which are McCreary 5.00-5
Type III tube type 6 ply. They have been in service since 1992 but used only
seven years as two years were spent on floats. Most of my flying is cross
country so not to many landings. They would have gone another year if I had
turned them more often.
The diameter inflated to 35 lbs. laying on my bench was 13 and 11/16 for one
and 13 and 7/8 for the other with 1/32 tread remaining.
I replaced them with the Aero Trainer 5.00-5 Type lll tube type 6 ply that I
swiped from the finishing kit for my RV 6A. The diameter inflated to 35 lbs.
on the bench was 13 and 3/4 for both, the new tread depth, just over 1/8.
After removing and cleaning the tire talc of the tubes I picked up two flaws
one on each in the radial seams on the side walls. At first they looked like
a small pinch which penetrated about half the thickness of the tube.
Although inflated and submerged in water they were not leaking one could not
use them in this condition. I took them to a well known tire repair station
and they confirmed that they were manufacturing defects and the repair was
two light small cold patches.
Reassembled with some fresh tire talc and two new valve cores they are back
on old faithful.
My wheel pants are the one piece and I set them up to have a clearance above
the tire of about 5/8 inches
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
I for one revel in both the fertilizer and the seed...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | How to wire the PTT switch |
How do I connect the push to talk switch to the microphone jack so that I
can transmit?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A smoke testing the wires (some of them)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
I've searched the archives, various catalogs, etc, and can't find a reference
showing what the thread pattern is on the fuel pump vent for a standard
lycoming (low pressure) mechanical pump.
Is this fitting NPT or another of the dreaded "airplane fuel pump only"
fittings?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
Firewall Forward (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Vent |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 5/20/00 14:38, KBoatri144(at)aol.com at KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I've searched the archives, various catalogs, etc, and can't find a reference
> showing what the thread pattern is on the fuel pump vent for a standard
> lycoming (low pressure) mechanical pump.
>
> Is this fitting NPT or another of the dreaded "airplane fuel pump only"
> fittings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
> RV-6
> Firewall Forward (still)
>
>
NPT
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dies and Dimpling |
While it is a common practice it is not the correct way. The
rivets are designed for a # 40 hole. As a rivet is bucked it
gets larger around therefore creating a stronger joint. I am
sure that there has never and well never be a problem with
using #41 hole, but it is not correct.
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> I believe there is nothing wrong with using a #41 drill for 3/32 rivets. It
> is in fact a common practice. Many builders prefer the #41 when dimpling
> because the resulting dimpled hole is smaller and more nearly the correct
> size.
> As for using a slightly shorter rivet, it makes no significant difference. I
> base this statement on a calculation of the rivet length needed to fill the
> volume of a hole through two pieces of 0.032 stock. In the case of the #41
> hole, the 3/32 (0.094) rivet length starts out at 0.067 inch, and when upset
> it will exactly fill the volume of the #41 hole which, ideally, is 0.0096
> in diameter. In the case of the #40 (0.098) hole, the rivet length to fill
> the hole when upset is 0.070.
> The rivet for the #41 hole therefore needs to be 0.004 shorter than the
> rivet for the #40 hole. Now really guys, wouldn't you agree that a 0.004
> difference in rivet length is insignificant?
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, May 20, 2000 12:22 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Dies and Dimpling
>
> >
> >I was talking with Tom Green today at Vans about a goofup I had made.
> During
> >the conversation I mentioned to him that I had used a #41 drill bit when
> >drilling my holes for riviting. He said this disturbed him and he was
> >wondering how this sort of heresay had gotten around.
> >The reason we should stick with the #40 bit is that the rivet is suppose to
> >swell in the hole and fill up that extra space that we all think shouldn't
> be
> >there. In reality the looseness of the rivet in the hole is a good thing if
> >your using the correct length rivet.
> >As Tom said if we are going to use the #41 bit then we should use a
> slightly
> >shorter rivet because it doesn't have to swell at all. But the swelling of
> >the rivet in the hole is a good thing and helps hold parts together.
> >Just my 2 cents worth.
> >
> >John Danielson
> >Fuselage
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy Primers |
I use AKZO on interior parts because it has excellent corrosion prevention
characteristics. Trapped moisture is a big corrosion agent. AKZO provides
protection against moisture and other man made fluids. I believe(but not
positively sure)that the military has used it on aircraft.
I would use an exterior primer that was manufactured by the maker of the
exterior paint system that you plan on using.
I have done a test using aluminum primered with AKZO and then re-primered
with commercial rustoleum primer and then painted with rustoleum enamel and
it came out very well. Very durable. I am considering painting the
interior with this method.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: armstrong <armstrong(at)coastside.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Epoxy Primers
>
> Does the Azko primer provide water protection? I notice they call it an
> interior primer. I asked the folks at Aircraft Spruce and they thought
that
> it was called interior because it fades quickly. I have a couple of test
> parts out in the weather here on the coast. They are bleached by the sun.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Tanks |
Hmm, I don't see anything on how you handled the flap brace.
Don't you pretty much rivet that in place as you go along. Does it not
obscure some of the rivet holes for the inboard ribs ??
Gert
Vincent Himsl wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Just finished up my wings (RV8). I left the tanks off (no need after
> final fit verification as they get in the way) and left the three inboard
> ribs out until both top and bottom skins were riveted. Then working
> inboard one rib at a time, I riveted them on. They bow slightly which
> allows them to fit into position even with the top and bottom skins on.
>
> Don't forget the wing doubler!
>
> If you haven't started yet, practice inserting the ribs with the skins
> clecoed on.
>
> Oh clecoes inboard of the fourth rib will make it difficult to insert the
> ribs so leave them off.
>
> Rivet sequence for bottom....Top is already riveted, I assume.
>
> 1. Starting with 4th rib, cleco outboard both skin sections (to keep the
> spar from possibly shifting though I doubt it can)
>
> 2. Starting at 4th rib start riveting outboard till just before the junction.
>
> 3. Now, one at a time, insert each inboard rib and rivet in place starting
> with the spar attach points. Then the skin to ribs and finish up with the
> skin to spar.
>
> 4. When you finish that, pick up where you left off with the outboard
> progression and it should go ok.
>
> Tip. Rivet the least accessible rivet locations first which is near the
> rear spar. The skin is pretty flexible, at least enough to get the
> riveting done. You will need a helper for this part, unless you are a lot
> more experienced at riveting than I.
>
> Confession here...When I was done, I completely peeled off the plastic on
> one of the wings to see what it looked like. Quite a motivational
> rush...try it.
>
> Good luck and regards,
>
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 Fuselage
> Moscow, ID USA
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Tanks |
In a message dated 5/20/00 7:28:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dirtrider(at)qnet.com writes:
<<
Here is an easy way to do the wing skins (RV8)
Leave out only the most inboard wing rib. Rivet the top skin on. Rivet the
bottom skin on from the rear spar toward the main spar. You can peel back
the skin and get to the rear spar rivets easily, do them first. leave clecos
in up about six inches above the spar. That keeps the skin alligned. Just
keep moving up, toward the main spar moving the clecos as you go. When you
can't reach in from the top any more finish up from the ends and inspection
openings. When the skin is all on slip in the inboard rib, squeeze the
rivets and you are done. All solid rivets, no forcing in two or three
inboard ribs and it goes quick. But it takes two guys, but so do the other
methods. Good Luck!
Rich Crosley #80948
Palmdale, CA
RV8 Finishing second wing and starting fuselage
>>
This method works on the RV-9 as well. Fred LaForge RV-4 EAA 448 Tech
counsellor
________________________________________________________________________________
1/8" NPT
>>I've searched the archives, various catalogs, etc, and can't find a
reference
showing what the thread pattern is on the fuel pump vent for a standard
lycoming (low pressure) mechanical pump.
Is this fitting NPT or another of the dreaded "airplane fuel pump only"
fittings?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
Firewall Forward (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Terra/Trimble TRT250D Transponder |
I have an older TR 250 with push switches. Switches sticking, need replaced.
Quoted $535 from Terra. Anyone intrested?
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, May 20, 2000 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Terra/Trimble TRT250D Transponder
>
>ROB
>GET IN LINE
>I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR THAT TRANSPONDER FOR 6 MONTHS NOW.
>GOOD LUCK
>SCOTT
>TAMPA
>
>RV6A TIPPER
>N015EY RESERVED
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
Hi all,
Just found that the standard Stewart-Warner fuel sender unit (Vans Part
#IE F-385B) apparently does not work with a Westach Dual Fuel Level
Gauge (mod# 2DA4V).. I found a few old posts that claimed it did?
The Westach Gauge requires a 4-wire sender? The one Vans sent me has
only 1 screw attach point.. uuugh!
Does anyone know the model#/type of 4-wire sender that will work with
this dandy little Westach gauge in an RV6a flop-tube tank? Aircraft
Spruce page#? etc?
Thanks much,
RJ in CT~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to wire the PTT switch |
In a message dated 5/20/00 1:53:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<< How do I connect the push to talk switch to the microphone jack so that I
can transmit? >>
The portion of the mic jack that contacts the tip (end) of the three circuit
plug should be wired to the PTT input on your radio (or audio panel if so
equipped). If you want to retrofit a PTT switch on the stick then you
connect one terminal of a momentary pushbutton switch to ground and the other
terminal to the tip contact of the mic jack.
If you are wiring up a new plane and merely want a PTT switch on the stick
you don't need to wire from the jack to the PTT input of the radio (or audio
panel if so equipped). Just wire one terminal of the PTT switch(es) to
ground and the opposite terminal(s) to the PTT input of the radio (or audio
panel if so equipped).
You really need to get Electric Bob's book if you are asking these questions.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: long/non building related-Big RV-6 Drawback |
:Will the flaps extend just by standing on them? Maybe if you jump up and
:down a bit... I'm sure you'll find out one of these days.
If you go the elec. flap route ( which you should, because so many have
retro-fitted later), the flaps use a jack-screw/motor located just behind the
seat & will stay in place at least until metal is bent somewhere .
Larry Adamson RV6A- finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Any builders in the memphis area? It looks like I'll be there this coming
weekend, in order to buy an RV-4 wing kit that's for sale there (75%
finished). Having never built a wing before, it would be nice to have a
second set of eyes who've seen it all before. I would even be happy to
spring for the beer and dinner. :-)
Bill
Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rudder oil can question |
i have oil can on one side or rudder about half way down approx 30%-one side
only.
any big deal??? my first experience with that thin of skin. bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
No----------- you're looking at about 88" wide for the main gear & 103" for
the horizontal stab.
Larry Adamson RV6A finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
This discussion got me thinking and I remembered reading "somewhere" that a
#41 drill bit was the correct size for 3/32 rivets, so I went through all
the books I have on the subject and it was Jeppesen's "Aircraft Sheet Metal"
book (page 36) which specified this. On the other hand, I looked this up in
two versions of the "Standard Aircraft Maintenance" manual I won and they
both specified #40 as the correct drill size. I tried looking this up in
AC-43-13 and couldn't find it...I'm sure it's in there somewhere...I don't
expect my plane to fall from the sky because of this, but I am going back to
#40.
Mark Dickens
-8 Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 11:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: #40 vs #41
>
> > Many builders prefer the #41 when dimpling
> > because the resulting dimpled hole is smaller and more nearly the
correct
> > size.
>
>
> I suspect that this is one of those things where some builder somewhere
> tried it and found that the rivet fit in the hole tighter after the
dimpling
> so therefore that must be the 'correct size'. At first glance that would
> seem to be correct, but considering the nature of rivets and what they are
> supposed to do when pounded from one side and flattened from the other it
> seems a bit of a moot point to me. The rivet fills out the #40 hole just
> fine, that is it's job. Making a tighter fit might make it feel better to
> the builder and any placebo that makes one feel better is great medicine
no
> matter how you look at it. Fact is, it's not necessary to use a #41
instead
> of a #40, the rivet fills the space.....as it should, as it was designed
to
> do, as it does in every military aircraft ever rivetted together, as it
has
> for 50 years......but like I said, if it makes you feel like you're
building
> a 'tighter' airframe.....go for it. I'll bet not a soul has ever done a
> tear apart test on the #41 hole versus the #40 hole and found any
difference
> at all. There are reasons why Van's entire staff snickers at the
> information passed around on this list, some of it is great but alot of it
> comes from someone trying to out smart the rest of the world. I think
> Scott's exact words to me were 'on that list there are seeds, and there is
> fertilizer.......and believe me more of it is fertilizer than seed.....you
> would be better off setting your computer on fire.' I don't quite
believe
> it's that bad.......... most of the time.
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A cabin heat |
Jim, I'm planning mine for the fixed part of the panel to the left.
Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done,
fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units. Do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 9:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A cabin heat
>
>
> To all you 8Aers out there. Where in the heck did you put the knob for
your
> cabin heat???
>
> I'm not lucky enough to have those cool landing gear towers to put all my
push /
> pull knobs and there is no more room on my panel ( of course ).
>
> I'm desperate here!
>
> Thx,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> Austin, Texas
> RV-8AQ ( Fuse & Finish )
> N89JA ( reserved )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders |
RJ
You have the right sender for this gauge. The pinouts are as follows. #1
right sender, #3 left sender, #4 12volt DC, #5 ground.
Cash Copeland
RV6Q N46FC
Oakland, Ca
In a message dated 5/21/00 1:53:21 AM GMT Daylight Time, vtx(at)ntplx.net writes:
<<
Hi all,
Just found that the standard Stewart-Warner fuel sender unit (Vans Part
#IE F-385B) apparently does not work with a Westach Dual Fuel Level
Gauge (mod# 2DA4V).. I found a few old posts that claimed it did?
The Westach Gauge requires a 4-wire sender? The one Vans sent me has
only 1 screw attach point.. uuugh!
Does anyone know the model#/type of 4-wire sender that will work with
this dandy little Westach gauge in an RV6a flop-tube tank? Aircraft
Spruce page#? etc?
Thanks much,
RJ in CT~
_- >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders |
-----Original Message-----
From: R.James <vtx(at)ntplx.net>
Date: Saturday, May 20, 2000 7:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Senders
>
>Hi all,
>
>Just found that the standard Stewart-Warner fuel sender unit (Vans Part
>#IE F-385B) apparently does not work with a Westach Dual Fuel Level
>Gauge (mod# 2DA4V).. I found a few old posts that claimed it did?
>
>The Westach Gauge requires a 4-wire sender? The one Vans sent me has
>only 1 screw attach point.. uuugh!
>
>Thanks much,
>
>RJ in CT~
>
>I won't swear about part numbers, but my S/W senders that came from Van's
and my Westach dual fuel gage have worked well together for the last 8
years. One terminal for power, one for ground and one from each sender.
Thats four!
Ivan Haecker rv-4 700 hrs. South TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: List Badge Update Please Read!!! |
Listers
I have just about completed all the badges I have received so far. I just
wanted to let those in Canada know theirs will be the last to go out because
I want to carry all of them to the post office in one trip, so those will be
a little late. I also have a few people who have not sent in their mailer yet
so I can send them out to you. I will put the names of the ones left. Thanks
Steve Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Folks
It's very simple, I found out the hard way.............
You use a No 40 drill for Universal head rivets.(refer MIL Handbook 5
which specifies rivet strength & hole drill sizes etc.)
BUT when dimpling a 3/32 dia hole will stretch to virtually #40 size.
check it out some time with a test piece..
When dimpling and csking only use a 3/32 dia drill so that your dimple
die or csk cutter sits snugly in the hole and the dimple/csk is located
as accurately as possible. Why on earth would you want to drill No 40
THEN dimple with your pilot sloppy in the hole and get an even bigger
hole in which the dimple may not be aligned with the hole.
The instruction that Vans prints to drill all the holes No 40 before
dimpling is downright misleading. Sadly the aircraft mechanics handbooks
are silent on this subject.
Anyway that is how the aircraft industry does it.
happy rivetting.
Graham Murphy
6A empennage almost finished.
Blenheim New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Senders Wiring Diagram? |
Hi Cash,
Thanks for the quick reply.
Here's a graphic of the wiring schematic that came in the Westach box.
It only has 3 pins on the back; #1, #3, #5.
I assume that 5 is for ground, 1 & 3 go to left & right tanks. There is
no #4 for 12v DC?
http://www.vtxpress.com/rv6/fuel-indicator-diagram.jpg
The diagram also looks like the; ground, power-hot, & gauge wires all go
onto the sender head? (KA-BOOM! Goes the gas)..
I'm sure it must work somehow. Could you take a peek at the schematic
and drop a line?
Thanks much,
RJ in CT
======================================================================
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> RJ
>
> You have the right sender for this gauge. The pinouts are as follows. #1
> right sender, #3 left sender, #4 12volt DC, #5 ground.
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6Q N46FC
> Oakland, Ca
>
> In a message dated 5/21/00 1:53:21 AM GMT Daylight Time, vtx(at)ntplx.net writes:
>
> <<
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just found that the standard Stewart-Warner fuel sender unit (Vans Part
> #IE F-385B) apparently does not work with a Westach Dual Fuel Level
> Gauge (mod# 2DA4V).. I found a few old posts that claimed it did?
>
> The Westach Gauge requires a 4-wire sender? The one Vans sent me has
> only 1 screw attach point.. uuugh!
>
> Does anyone know the model#/type of 4-wire sender that will work with
> this dandy little Westach gauge in an RV6a flop-tube tank? Aircraft
> Spruce page#? etc?
>
> Thanks much,
>
> RJ in CT~
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCruiser1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Windshield defroster for RV-8 |
A good friend of mine is nearly complete with his RV8 and he developed a
defrost system of his own. I will speak to him about sketching up the plans.
The system mixes air for heat and defrost. Flying in Ohio a defroster is
used often.
Gary
RV8 Tail feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
If you have clearance on the sides of the door then you can go through on a
angle to get one wheel out, then slide to the side to get the other out. Do
the same with the tail.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVHI(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shop Door
>
> No----------- you're looking at about 88" wide for the main gear & 103"
for
> the horizontal stab.
>
> Larry Adamson RV6A finish
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 in IMAX Movie |
phil
here in tampa, fl. i took my folks to the IMAX theater to watch alaska, when
i walked into the main lobby area, there was an RV 3 suspended on cables
overhead inside the building. what a shock, no one there knew why they hung
it there, maybe a movie comming soon about RV'S , whoooo hoooo
scott
tampa
rv6a tipper
NOI5EY RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder oil can question |
Hi Bob:
This is nothing to lose sleep over. Move on to your elevators and don't
look back.....or is that don't turn back....... :)
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Sealing second tank
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, May 20, 2000 10:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: rudder oil can question
>
>i have oil can on one side or rudder about half way down approx 30%-one
side
>only.
>any big deal??? my first experience with that thin of skin. bob in
arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any second thoughts |
I have this quote hanging on my wall:
"It is not the critic who counts, or how the strong man stubbles, or
whether the doer of deeds could have done them better.
The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is
marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes
short again and again; who knows the great enthusiasm, the great devotion,
and who spends himself in a worthy cause, and if he fails, at least fails
while daring greatly so that he'll never be with those cold and timid souls
who never know either victory or defeat". Theodore Roosevelt
secodnd thoughts....... Not
Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 with new vert. stabilizer |
I just received my emp kit and do have the RV-8 style vertical stabilizer. I
don't think I have seen any pictures of one that is completed yet. Has
anyone flown both types and noticed a difference? I realize the change in
feathers was probably primarily for cost savings but thought maybe it would
also alter spin recovery and maybe even dampen dutch roll tendencies.
Has anyone on the list completed an RV-6 with the new feathers yet?
Are Barstad
RV-6 (Empennage)
________________________________________________________________________________
I don't have my canopy installed yet, just the roll bar. But it appears to be
about 70" high when sitting in a level position. The vertical stab is about
the same as the wheels---- 88" high when level. Although I suppose you could
raise the nose, push the tail to the floor & get away with approx. 55" from
the tiedown to the top of vertical stab.
I live about one block from the airport & was hoping I could complete my RV6A
in my 3-car garage ,including permantely mounting the wings & somehow get it
out of the garage & tow it over. I drew an accurate plot plan of the garage &
doors, & then a scaled paper RV6A airplane. Found I can easily get it out the
door on casters under the wheels to bring one wing out the door & then swivel
the aircraft . Maybe you could do the same & see if there is anyway possible.
My first shop was 10'*16 & 5' double doors. I built most of the top section
of the RV including seats, panel, etc. in that little shop. I then removed
all the top section (just clecoed) & flipped it back over to mount the
landing gear legs. At least that allowed for another years worth of work
before moving to a larger area.
L.Adamson RV6A finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Flap Brace Question |
I am working on the RV-4 wing and have a question on the flap brace. How do
I cut it to fit around the step up portion of spar root plates?? The
directions say 'cut flap brace to step up on spar root plates.' Does someone
have a digital picture or specific directions as to how to do this?? Any help
would be greatly appreciated.
Also, should I use flat head rivets on the entire rear wing spar to ribs, or
only on the areas that will interfere with the flap support brace?? Thank you
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
Friends
I am having a tough time with a problem that has just arisen. My RV-6 has
322 hours on the O-360 equiped with airflow performance and an electronic
ignition system. My problem began about 2 months ago when I was climbing out
after a routine gas stop and let the engine wind up as I leveled off. After
about 2 minutes of flight the engine suddenly lost power significantly and
ran very rough, signalling to me that one cylinder was not firing. I turned
back (2000 feet of altitude), reduced throttle, checked mixture, switched
tanks, boost pump on, etc, to no avail, but after a minute or so of reduced
power the engine smoothed out. I circled the field for 10 minutes and the
engine ran beautifully at normal cruise on both tanks so I decided it was a
burp of something in the fuel and flew on home. Now on every takeoff the
engine runs fine for about 90 seconds until it is really warm (hot) and then
it loses power. I have flown it about 4 times (5 minutes each) testing
various fixes (had the fuel system bench tested, cleaned plugs, replaced the
ignition leads, flushed the fuel system, checked the vents clean, checked
boost pump and valving, etc.) and it behaves the same every time. Switching
off one ignition at a time has no effect so I am very confident it is not to
blame. I am now suspecting the valves and will be checking the clearances.
Does anyone have any other ideas on what to check? My CHT/EGT does not work
so I am ordering a replacement to aid troubleshooting, but I am getting tired
of making such exciting test flights.
Jim Van Laak
N1KJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 with new vert. stabilizer |
Are
There has been some discussion in past RVators as well as this list
regarding spins(intentional) in the RV-6. Apparently Van does not recommend
spinning the -6. His caveat is not that there is an
instability/recoverability problem in the aircraft but the fuse/wing combo
produces a spin that is not for the feint of heart. I don't know of any test
results from Van regarding the spin characteristics with the larger RV-8
rudder but it would be an interesting experiment. The larger rudder should
produce more crosswind landing authority.
I think you are right that production streamlineing is the biggest factor in
the change.
Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont
RV-8 fuel tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 10:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 with new vert. stabilizer
>
> I just received my emp kit and do have the RV-8 style vertical stabilizer.
I
> don't think I have seen any pictures of one that is completed yet. Has
> anyone flown both types and noticed a difference? I realize the change in
> feathers was probably primarily for cost savings but thought maybe it
would
> also alter spin recovery and maybe even dampen dutch roll tendencies.
>
> Has anyone on the list completed an RV-6 with the new feathers yet?
>
> Are Barstad
> RV-6 (Empennage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rough engine |
>
>
>Friends
>
>I am having a tough time with a problem that has just arisen. My RV-6 has
>322 hours on the O-360 equiped with airflow performance and an electronic
>ignition system. My problem began about 2 months ago when I was climbing
>out
>after a routine gas stop and let the engine wind up as I leveled off.
>After
>about 2 minutes of flight the engine suddenly lost power significantly and
>ran very rough, signalling to me that one cylinder was not firing. I
>turned
>back (2000 feet of altitude), reduced throttle, checked mixture, switched
>tanks, boost pump on, etc, to no avail, but after a minute or so of reduced
>power the engine smoothed out. I circled the field for 10 minutes and the
>engine ran beautifully at normal cruise on both tanks so I decided it was a
>burp of something in the fuel and flew on home. Now on every takeoff the
>engine runs fine for about 90 seconds until it is really warm (hot) and
>then
>it loses power. I have flown it about 4 times (5 minutes each) testing
>various fixes (had the fuel system bench tested, cleaned plugs, replaced
>the
>ignition leads, flushed the fuel system, checked the vents clean, checked
>boost pump and valving, etc.) and it behaves the same every time.
>Switching
>off one ignition at a time has no effect so I am very confident it is not
>to
>blame. I am now suspecting the valves and will be checking the clearances.
>
>Does anyone have any other ideas on what to check? My CHT/EGT does not
>work
>so I am ordering a replacement to aid troubleshooting, but I am getting
>tired
>of making such exciting test flights.
>
>Jim Van Laak
>N1KJ
What about an intake manifold or exhaust leak? Gaskets all intact and
mounting hardware properly tightened? I think the valve check is a good
idea as you may have a valve hanging up at a certain engine temp Maybe
toss some Marvel Mystery Oil or Avblend into the fuel. Certainly won't
hurt. It's amazing how those lead globules can build up on plug electrodes
and valve surfaces.
Since I'm clueless on fuel injection, I can't offer anything there. Now,
with carburetors, I've become quite familiar with what THEY can do!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
91 hrs, ONE deadstick landing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 / new vert. stabilizer/spins |
>
>
>Are
>There has been some discussion in past RVators as well as this list
>regarding spins(intentional) in the RV-6. Apparently Van does not recommend
>spinning the -6. His caveat is not that there is an
>instability/recoverability problem in the aircraft but the fuse/wing combo
>produces a spin that is not for the feint of heart. I don't know of any
>test
>results from Van regarding the spin characteristics with the larger RV-8
>rudder but it would be an interesting experiment. The larger rudder should
>produce more crosswind landing authority.
>I think you are right that production streamlineing is the biggest factor
>in
>the change.
>
>Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont
>RV-8 fuel tanks
>
My brief spin tests in the -8 indicate that recovery is normal after one
turn. The usual forward stick and opposite rudder worked fine. I was coming
down in a BIG hurry, so I didn't go into a more developed spin, which I
don't feel is necessary to prove the recovery behaviour of the airplane
after an unintentional departure from controlled flight. I'm sure any RV
will wrap up really tight if allowed to continue. With the tandem RV's while
flown solo, you have to be VERY careful to not allow the ship to enter a
spiral, which an RV8 with battery up front tends to do. This is another
reason I didn't continue the rotations. One to the left, one to the right.
Done.
The -6 is likely normally flown with a more aft CG by most folks simply due
to design parameters so it may enter a flatter spin. I'm sure the larger
tail will only improve an already terrific airplane in every way.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 with new vert. stabilizer |
In a message dated 5/21/00 8:20:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
abarstad(at)bconnex.net writes:
<< Has anyone on the list completed an RV-6 with the new feathers yet? >>
Van's has. There was an article in RVator last year about it. I don't
recall which issue and am not home so can't look it up for you. If my memory
is right, they reported little difference in handling or spin recovery.
Harry Crosby.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JFarmer330(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rough engine |
In a message dated 5/21/00 10:57:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
JVanLaak(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Friends
>
> I am having a tough time with a problem that has just arisen. My RV-6 has
> 322 hours on the O-360 equiped with airflow performance and an electronic
> ignition system. My problem began about 2 months ago when I was climbing
> out
> after a routine gas stop and let the engine wind up as I leveled off.
After
>
> about 2 minutes of flight the engine suddenly lost power significantly and
> ran very rough, signalling to me that one cylinder was not firing. I
turned
>
> back (2000 feet of altitude), reduced throttle, checked mixture, switched
> tanks, boost pump on, etc, to no avail, but after a minute or so of
reduced
> power the engine smoothed out. I circled the field for 10 minutes and the
> engine ran beautifully at normal cruise on both tanks so I decided it was
a
> burp of something in the fuel and flew on home. Now on every takeoff the
> engine runs fine for about 90 seconds until it is really warm (hot) and
then
>
> it loses power. I have flown it about 4 times (5 minutes each) testing
> various fixes (had the fuel system bench tested, cleaned plugs, replaced
the
>
> ignition leads, flushed the fuel system, checked the vents clean, checked
> boost pump and valving, etc.) and it behaves the same every time.
Switching
>
> off one ignition at a time has no effect so I am very confident it is not
to
>
> blame. I am now suspecting the valves and will be checking the clearances.
I had almost the exact symptoms in a Cessna 172 with an O-320 a while back.
It turned out to be an intermittent sticking valve. The problem was hard to
find at first because everything was fine on the ground and during run-up.
The valve finally hung up on the ground and showed up on a compression check.
The plane was part of a flying club I was in so I don't know all of the
details of the fix. I know that an oil additive was tried to free up the
valve (don't know what additive was used) but that didn't work. The jug was
eventually pulled and top overhauled.
Jim Farmer
Starting to get ready to begin -8 empennage. Inventory complete if that
counts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder oil can question |
[original question]
>>i have oil can on one side or rudder about half way down approx 30%-one
>>side only.
>>any big deal??? my first experience with that thin of skin. bob in
>arkansas
[reply]
> This is nothing to lose sleep over. Move on to your elevators and don't
> look back.....or is that don't turn back....... :)
I agree it's nothing to lose sleep over. But still maybe something to keep
in mind once its flying. Van's had a write-up once about a pitch trim
problem what was traced to an oil canning elevator. Could have the same
issue with the rudder MAYBE depending on if the thing really wants to "pop"
in flight. I'd say don't worry about it for now, and once you're flying if
you get lateral trim problems then maybe consider injecting some foam. The
best way to do that is a whole other discussion -- check the archives. If it
happens that is.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders Wiring Diagram? |
RJ,
You have a capacitance type fuel gauge. This gauge will not work with the
float type senders. I was not able to find a stocking dealer for the float
type gauge so I called Westach directly. They told me their dealers were
ordering the capacitance type senders so they build the float type on order.
I was able to get a gauge directly from Westach. I paid a lot more than two
of Van's gauges ($91.00 vs $62.00) but I needed the panel space. Westach's
phone # is 707-938-2121 Email westach(at)juno.com. They are located in Sonoma,
Ca.
Cash Copeland
RV6QB N46FC
Oakland, Ca.
In a message dated 5/21/00 1:19:49 PM GMT Daylight Time, vtx(at)ntplx.net writes:
<<
Hi Cash,
Thanks for the quick reply.
Here's a graphic of the wiring schematic that came in the Westach box.
It only has 3 pins on the back; #1, #3, #5.
I assume that 5 is for ground, 1 & 3 go to left & right tanks. There is
no #4 for 12v DC?
http://www.vtxpress.com/rv6/fuel-indicator-diagram.jpg
The diagram also looks like the; ground, power-hot, & gauge wires all go
onto the sender head? (KA-BOOM! Goes the gas)..
I'm sure it must work somehow. Could you take a peek at the schematic
and drop a line?
Thanks much,
RJ in CT
======================================================================
JusCash(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> RJ
>
> You have the right sender for this gauge. The pinouts are as follows. #1
> right sender, #3 left sender, #4 12volt DC, #5 ground.
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV6Q N46FC
> Oakland, Ca
>
> In a message dated 5/21/00 1:53:21 AM GMT Daylight Time, vtx(at)ntplx.net
writes:
>
> <<
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just found that the standard Stewart-Warner fuel sender unit (Vans Part
> #IE F-385B) apparently does not work with a Westach Dual Fuel Level
> Gauge (mod# 2DA4V).. I found a few old posts that claimed it did?
>
> The Westach Gauge requires a 4-wire sender? The one Vans sent me has
> only 1 screw attach point.. uuugh!
>
> Does anyone know the model#/type of 4-wire sender that will work with
> this dandy little Westach gauge in an RV6a flop-tube tank? Aircraft
> Spruce page#? etc?
>
> Thanks much,
>
> RJ in CT~
>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rough engine |
Jim you might want to check the angle on the vent tubes
Pat 80536 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations |
Listers -
I am trying to decide where to mount my antennas in my RV-6 with a tip up
canopy. I am installing the Transponder antenna just below the fuel selector
switch through the floor pan. I want to also locate the Com antenna down
under too but cannot find a source that tells me how far from other antennas
it needs to be. Should I mount the Com antenna on the front of the turtle
deck? I really don't want the look of an antenna there, but if it is for the
best, I will.
I am also undecided where to install the GPS antenna. I can get a
glareshield mounted antenna that would give me a short coax run to the
KLX-135, but I am concerned that the active antenna might interfere with the
glareshield mounted compass. I have 'Electric Bobs' book but in revision 8,
he said that GPS antennas were an area he was still unsure of. Therefore I
am asking if there is anyone out on this list that might have done this
application before.
Thanks in advance.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Trying to get to the point of my last parts
order :-))
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Senders, wrong types! |
Hi Cash,
That's it! Resistance Senders don't work w/ Capacitance Fuel Gauges!
DARNIT ALL~ Appreciate the insight on this, of the myriad
"hard-lessons" enroute to first-flight.
I'm now slinking back down to the shop, trying to sneak past wife, w/
the letters "D U M B" written across my forehead.. HA!
Thanks again,
RJ in CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | New Navaid for Sale |
I have decided to put a different autopilot in my plane, and no longer need
the Navaid. The servo was installed, but never run and the panel unit is
still in the bag. All accessories still in box, wiring, etc. Cost new a
year ago was $1200, I'll sell for $1000. I'll even throw in detailed
pictures of the
servo installation in the wing.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove MN
763-494-8443 home
763-582-2314 days
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Crabtree" <Kcrab(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale, Lyc. spin on oil filter kit |
Oil Screen Conversion Kit, Lyc part # LW13743 Converts 0-235,
O-320, O-360 to take spin on oil filter. Kit includes adapter, all bolts,
hardware, gasket and a spin on oil filter.
New, still in the box never used, cost $ 399.95 from Chief, will sell for $
250.00 and pay for postage.
Located in Melbourne Fl.
KCrab(at)BellSouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
"RV List"
Listers,
I have some garage rash on my elevator.
As I was showing my project to my EAA chapter, a guest, said that I should
try "DRY ICE" to shrink the dents out. He stated that dry ice is cold
enough to cause the metal to shrine back to a flat condition.
Anyone heard of this and, if so, ideas on what the exact method would be???
Woudl the metal lose any strength?
What are the downsides to trying this?
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
HRII - hope to fly this summer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations |
dgmurray wrote:
>
>
> Listers -
>
> I am trying to decide where to mount my antennas in my RV-6 with a tip up
> canopy. I am installing the Transponder antenna just below the fuel selector
> switch through the floor pan. I want to also locate the Com antenna down
> under too but cannot find a source that tells me how far from other antennas
> it needs to be. Should I mount the Com antenna on the front of the turtle
> deck? I really don't want the look of an antenna there, but if it is for the
> best, I will.
>
> I am also undecided where to install the GPS antenna. I can get a
> glareshield mounted antenna that would give me a short coax run to the
> KLX-135, but I am concerned that the active antenna might interfere with the
> glareshield mounted compass. I have 'Electric Bobs' book but in revision 8,
> he said that GPS antennas were an area he was still unsure of. Therefore I
> am asking if there is anyone out on this list that might have done this
> application before.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Trying to get to the point of my last parts
> order :-))
> Southern Alberta
>
Doug
Put them on the bottom is my advice. I have my transponder
antenna in the same place you want to put yours and that
is right in front of the spar in the center. I also have two com
antennas on the bottom, one on each side in front of the spar
as far to the sides as possible. Don't know anyting about
wave lengths etc. but these have worked great for 11 years, with
no complaints from any ATC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <RVReynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders |
R.James wrote:
> Just found that the standard Stewart-Warner fuel sender unit (Vans Part #IE F-385B)
apparently does not work with a Westach Dual Fuel Level Gauge (mod# 2DA4V)..
I just found this out.
The Westach 2DA4V (4 wires) is for their capacitance type senders (4
wire).
You need the Westach 2DA4 - 240 ohm (NO "V") for the Van's Stewart
Warner 385 Series resistance senders (30 ohm FULL - 240 ohm EMPTY)
ACS doesn't know the correct part number and their catalog does give you
the clues.
Note that you need a Stewart Warner 385B left tank, 385C right tank.
There is subtle difference in the mounting hole pattern.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, still finishing everthing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations |
Jerry - Thanks for the input. Are you using two com radios or both antennas
to drive one? Will one antenna over to one side work well or does the
signal need to be balanced?
Again, thanks for your help. If all goes well for me I hope to be in
Arlington at the fly-in. Hope to see you there.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations
>
>
> Doug
> Put them on the bottom is my advice. I have my transponder
> antenna in the same place you want to put yours and that
> is right in front of the spar in the center. I also have two com
> antennas on the bottom, one on each side in front of the spar
> as far to the sides as possible. Don't know anyting about
> wave lengths etc. but these have worked great for 11 years, with
> no complaints from any ATC.
________________________________________________________________________________
...can't speak to the dent removal effectiveness, but the cold shouldn't
affect the heat treatment. Try cooling slowly, though. Worst case, the
metal could crack from shock cooling. Try it on some scrap first.
You might try and use some type of heat sink near/surrounding the dent.
This is to keep the surrounding metal warm WRT the cold dent since
temperature difference is what you're after.
Let us know if it works and how you did it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: dents in Al. |
I understand it works for hail damage in cars.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 3:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: dents in Al.
>
> Listers,
>
> I have some garage rash on my elevator.
>
> As I was showing my project to my EAA chapter, a guest, said that I should
> try "DRY ICE" to shrink the dents out. He stated that dry ice is cold
> enough to cause the metal to shrine back to a flat condition.
>
> Anyone heard of this and, if so, ideas on what the exact method would
be???
>
> Woudl the metal lose any strength?
>
> What are the downsides to trying this?
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> HRII - hope to fly this summer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations |
dgmurray wrote:
>
>
> Jerry - Thanks for the input. Are you using two com radios or both antennas
> to drive one? Will one antenna over to one side work well or does the
> signal need to be balanced?
>
> Again, thanks for your help. If all goes well for me I hope to be in
> Arlington at the fly-in. Hope to see you there.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
> Southern Alberta
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 2:26 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations
>
> >
> >
> > Doug
> > Put them on the bottom is my advice. I have my transponder
> > antenna in the same place you want to put yours and that
> > is right in front of the spar in the center. I also have two com
> > antennas on the bottom, one on each side in front of the spar
> > as far to the sides as possible. Don't know anyting about
> > wave lengths etc. but these have worked great for 11 years, with
> > no complaints from any ATC.
>
Doug
I have two com radios, I don't think that there is a problem
with balanced signals as either radio well work fine in any
flight position.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS / Compass interference & Antenna locations |
Can two GPS receivers be operated from one remote GPS antenna??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 with new vert. stabilizer |
My friend and hangar mate built his 6 with a RV8 staiblizer. He did it
because he installed an IO-360 200hp engine and wanted more rudder
authority. He reports that it eliminated all the dutch roll tendency that
6's have in turbulence. He should know since that is his second 6.
Martin Sutter
> I just received my emp kit and do have the RV-8 style vertical stabilizer.
I
> don't think I have seen any pictures of one that is completed yet. Has
> anyone flown both types and noticed a difference? I realize the change in
> feathers was probably primarily for cost savings but thought maybe it
would
> also alter spin recovery and maybe even dampen dutch roll tendencies.
>
> Has anyone on the list completed an RV-6 with the new feathers yet?
>
> Are Barstad
> RV-6 (Empennage)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | To drill or not to drill |
Ok guys - another question from the lame brain department. I'm riveting the
wing spar and everything is going like smooth and cooking right along
(usually a good indicator that something is wrong). I started at the root
end and am progressing nicely out to toward the tips when I got to where the
first aluminum angle spreader goes (the one with no rivets to the web). I
put it in place and set the 3/16 rivet and then the next one in line. That's
when I thought that something didn't look quite right. I got the tape
measure out and measured it out sure enough, I found that had I just put the
spreader one rivet off. That puts it about 1" inboard of where it supposed
to be.
OK - here's the question - drill out two of the 3/16" rivets and move it or
leave it alone? It doesn't appear that it will interfere with any rib
placements but I wonder if it will affect the strength of the wing spar.
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing spars)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Used Garmin 195 source?? |
> Someone had a note on the list that must have been DNA'd because I could
not
> find it regarding buying a used 195 at SnF for $699. Does anyone know if
that
> deal is still available?
>
> Bernie Kerr, N60WM 10 hours of grin time, airplane flies great and about
> have all the minor nuisances squared.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations |
> I am also undecided where to install the GPS antenna. I can get a
> > glareshield mounted antenna that would give me a short coax run to the
> KLX-135, but I am concerned that the active antenna might interfere with the
> glareshield mounted compass.
My windscreen mounted comm antenna doesn't seem to affect the glareshield mounted
card compass but it definitely did effect the GPS antenna when that was on the
glareshield. Every time I would transmit the comm signal would overload the GPS
requiring a full reset.
I now have the comm antenna on the windscreen. (a 21" piece of copper tape). The
GPS antenna is on a small bracket attached to the rear of the roll bar (looking
up). The transponder antenna is on the belly under the fuel selector valve. And,
the ELT is also on the belly near the baggage area bulkhead. Everything works
well.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dies and Dimpling |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brent's mail" <vredding(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Navaid for Sale |
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Sent: May 21, 2000 1:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: New Navaid for Sale
>
> I have decided to put a different autopilot in my plane, and no longer
need
> the Navaid. The servo was installed, but never run and the panel unit is
> still in the bag. All accessories still in box, wiring, etc. Cost new a
> year ago was $1200, I'll sell for $1000. I'll even throw in detailed
> pictures of the
> servo installation in the wing.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove MN
> 763-494-8443 home
> 763-582-2314 days
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations |
>
> switch through the floor pan. I want to also locate the Com
> antenna down
> under too but cannot find a source that tells me how far
> from other antennas
> it needs to be. Should I mount the Com antenna on the
> front of the turtle
> deck? I really don't want the look of an antenna there, but
> if it is for the
> best, I will.
>
> I am also undecided where to install the GPS antenna. I can get a
> glareshield mounted antenna that would give me a short
> coax run to the
> KLX-135, but I am concerned that the active antenna might
> interfere with the
> glareshield mounted compass. I have 'Electric Bobs' book
> but in revision 8,
> he said that GPS antennas were an area he was still unsure
> of. Therefore I
> am asking if there is anyone out on this list that might
> have done this
> application before.
>
Doug.
I mounted my xpndr antenna under the fuel selector and the comm
antenna (a bent whip) around 24 to 30" further aft. It seems to work
well. When I was trying to make the "on top vs. on the bottom"
decision, an avionics technician indicated that the only problem with
a belly mounted comm antenna is that you may have problems
communicating with the tower when you were on the ground at the far
end of a very large airport. This has happen to me two or three
times. When I was on the ground, far from the tower, and turned the
wrong way, the tower came in garbled. It hasn't been a big problem.
If I was doing it again, I would still mount it on the belly.
My vertical card compass is mounted on the glare shield. My GPS 195
antenna is also on the glare shield, about 3" away. I have never
noticed an interference. (Of course with the GPS 195 mounted in front
of me, I probably don't look at the compass as often as I should. I
may have missed something.)
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 495 hours
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The VonDane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dents in Al. |
I have done this is the past... Apply heat, and then cold to shrink the
metal... Works on cars with mild hail damage, never tried it on AL...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N912V, Wings
http://vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jones, Bryan D. <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 3:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: dents in Al.
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
...can't speak to the dent removal effectiveness, but the cold shouldn't
affect the heat treatment. Try cooling slowly, though. Worst case, the
metal could crack from shock cooling. Try it on some scrap first.
You might try and use some type of heat sink near/surrounding the dent.
This is to keep the surrounding metal warm WRT the cold dent since
temperature difference is what you're after.
Let us know if it works and how you did it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
The Navaid system is sold.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Crawford <gacmech(at)pacbell.net> |
One dead stick? Did I miss something Brian? Sure would like to hear about
that one:}
Bill Crawford,
Simi Valley CA,
RV-8 Tail Inwork
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rough engine
>
>
>Friends
>
>I am having a tough time with a problem that has just arisen. My RV-6 has
>322 hours on the O-360 equiped with airflow performance and an electronic
>ignition system. My problem began about 2 months ago when I was climbing
>out
>after a routine gas stop and let the engine wind up as I leveled off.
>After
>about 2 minutes of flight the engine suddenly lost power significantly and
>ran very rough, signalling to me that one cylinder was not firing. I
>turned
>back (2000 feet of altitude), reduced throttle, checked mixture, switched
>tanks, boost pump on, etc, to no avail, but after a minute or so of reduced
>power the engine smoothed out. I circled the field for 10 minutes and the
>engine ran beautifully at normal cruise on both tanks so I decided it was a
>burp of something in the fuel and flew on home. Now on every takeoff the
>engine runs fine for about 90 seconds until it is really warm (hot) and
>then
>it loses power. I have flown it about 4 times (5 minutes each) testing
>various fixes (had the fuel system bench tested, cleaned plugs, replaced
>the
>ignition leads, flushed the fuel system, checked the vents clean, checked
>boost pump and valving, etc.) and it behaves the same every time.
>Switching
>off one ignition at a time has no effect so I am very confident it is not
>to
>blame. I am now suspecting the valves and will be checking the clearances.
>
>Does anyone have any other ideas on what to check? My CHT/EGT does not
>work
>so I am ordering a replacement to aid troubleshooting, but I am getting
>tired
>of making such exciting test flights.
>
>Jim Van Laak
>N1KJ
What about an intake manifold or exhaust leak? Gaskets all intact and
mounting hardware properly tightened? I think the valve check is a good
idea as you may have a valve hanging up at a certain engine temp Maybe
toss some Marvel Mystery Oil or Avblend into the fuel. Certainly won't
hurt. It's amazing how those lead globules can build up on plug electrodes
and valve surfaces.
Since I'm clueless on fuel injection, I can't offer anything there. Now,
with carburetors, I've become quite familiar with what THEY can do!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
91 hrs, ONE deadstick landing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations |
Doug...
The transponder antenna will not interfere with the comm antenna, so it can
be as close to a comm antenna as necessary. If you have more than one comm
antenna, the second one should be at least 21 inches from the other. The
bottom is the best place IMHO.
Dick White
RV-8QB systems
Newport, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: dgmurray <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 12:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: GPS / Compass interferance & Antenna locations
>
> Listers -
>
> I am trying to decide where to mount my antennas in my RV-6 with a tip up
> canopy. I am installing the Transponder antenna just below the fuel
selector
> switch through the floor pan. I want to also locate the Com antenna down
> under too but cannot find a source that tells me how far from other
antennas
> it needs to be. Should I mount the Com antenna on the front of the turtle
> deck? I really don't want the look of an antenna there, but if it is for
the
> best, I will.
>
> I am also undecided where to install the GPS antenna. I can get a
> glareshield mounted antenna that would give me a short coax run to the
> KLX-135, but I am concerned that the active antenna might interfere with
the
> glareshield mounted compass. I have 'Electric Bobs' book but in revision
8,
> he said that GPS antennas were an area he was still unsure of. Therefore I
> am asking if there is anyone out on this list that might have done this
> application before.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Trying to get to the point of my last parts
> order :-))
> Southern Alberta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Stupid paint tricks |
As some of you know, I finished my -6A about 3.5 years ago. Since then
everyone has been badgering me to get it painted. I have valiantly resisted
long enough and 2 weeks ago I took "Spud Runner" down for painting.
I have some tips and insights to share, but first I have a question
regarding a *massively* stupid mistake.
I'm using PPG Concept paint due to some very favorable feelings by others
that have used it. I've finished painting all of the easily removable
parts; fairings, canopy, cowl, spinner, etc.
In applying the last coat of paint to the bottom cowl I think I may have
inadvertently used DX330 Wax and Grease remover instead of Reducer when
mixing the paint. ( I TOLD you it was stupid!) In my defense, the good
folks at PPG have a very handy can color and shape coding system for the
different primers, paints, etc. The only problem is that DX330 is in the
EXACT same shape/size can, and has the EXACT same color coding as the DT
reducer. Thanks a lot PPG! I'm not positive that I did make this mistake,
but both cans ended up next to each other while I was re-mixing "just a
little bit more" paint. When I got done, the 330 was in the spot where the
reducer should have been.
My question to you paint gurus is: Is this going to hurt anything? It
doesn't seem to have screwed up the paint, although it looks slightly
"drier" than normal. Can I buff this out? Should I sand and re-shoot it?
Should I just fly without a cowl?
I plan on talking to PPG support tomorrow, but I wanted your input. Plus I
needed to confess, it's been over 3 years since I did something stupid while
building an RV and I've been going through withdrawals.
BTW, for those interested here are some tips. First, read the info on Sam
B.'s terrific website. Thanks Sam! Second, a lot of people are undecided
on whether to paint before or after flying. If I were to do it over again,
I would fly first again. I had the cowl on and off many times during the
test phase, and got some hangar rash that was easily fixed since it wasn't
painted yet. I also think I'm taking more time than I would have when I was
desperate to get it airborne. As for the painting itself, I painted the
bottoms of all the control surfaces first. That way, if you get some
overspray on the bottoms when you paint the tops, it won't show. Concept is
however, very easy to buff. Also, PPG strongly recommends prepping the
aluminum before applying the epoxy primer. Interestingly enough, they
prefer using wash primer instead of etch/alodine. I went this route, and
the wash primer coat is so thin that I doubt it adds more than a pound to
the airframe. Then you use the epoxy primer, then the paint. The wash
primer does the same thing as the etch/alodine, but with much less hassle
and cost. The results so far have been fantastic.
Sorry for the length,
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/21/00 7:37:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< how high is a RV6A to the top of it's canopy?
Vertical Stabilizer? >>
The way mine sits the canopy is 72" and the VS is 80".
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: dents in Al. |
In a message dated 5/21/00 1:49:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tg1965(at)linkline.com writes:
<< I have some garage rash on my elevator.
As I was showing my project to my EAA chapter, a guest, said that I should
try "DRY ICE" to shrink the dents out. He stated that dry ice is cold
enough to cause the metal to shrine back to a flat condition.
Anyone heard of this and, if so, ideas on what the exact method would be???>>
Grab a hunk of it and plop it in place. Try and keep the area surrounding
the dent event horizon warm. Also if not yet painted you could try some
electronic circuit cold spray. There are different ozone-safe formulations
of this now (they used to be Freon 113 based and were relatively safe for
paint) so you may want to avoid them on paint.
<< Would the metal lose any strength?
What are the downsides to trying this? >>
None that I can think of. Actually I'm aware that racers actually have their
internal engine parts cryogenically treated and it improves various grain
structure properties.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold pressure with RMI ? |
Hi all,
I've got an RMI micro-monitor in my RV-8, and can't get the manifold
pressure to display on the normal display. In sensor calibration mode, it
reads fine, so I'm sure it's something I've got set wrong. Does this sound
like a familiar gotcha to anyone? Unless someone else knows the secret to
this, I'll give RMI a call when I get a chance.
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, N174KT (taxi tested tough, inspection Saturday)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stupid paint tricks |
> My question to you paint gurus is: Is this going to hurt anything? It
> doesn't seem to have screwed up the paint, although it looks slightly
> "drier" than normal. Can I buff this out? Should I sand and re-shoot it?
> Should I just fly without a cowl?
Ed,
The purpose of reducer is to simply thin the paint and then evaporate once
it is on the surface and the paint has "flowed out". the DX330 functioned in
the same way when you mixed it in. Since it doesn't add anything that would
hurt the paint I think you'll be ok. If your surface looks "dry" then this
probably means that the DX330 is "hotter", or evaporates faster, than
whichever reducer you were using. Now if you had mixed it up with the
hardener then the paint would never have crosslinked and hardened -- you
would have had a mess on your hands then!
If you are happy with the finish then I'd just leave it. You can easily sand
or buff it, or just paint another coat on it, which is what I'd probably do.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, spending WAY too much time on this plenum/baffle & oil cooler mount.
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJaerosports(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Any second thoughts |
Dear Rick
Your right , you should pack up your kit and sell it to someone who loves
flying
and who knows the risks . G.A. has way to many people who fly just to say
they fly . It use to be home building was a special gift some people had, but
now with the
ease of these kits everybody thinks they have what it takes to build & fly
one . Is this
a flame ? You Bet !
Dwain
RV- 6
So. Cal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stupid paint tricks |
In a message dated 5/21/00 7:06:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ebundy(at)micron.net writes:
<< In applying the last coat of paint to the bottom cowl I think I may have
inadvertently used DX330 Wax and Grease remover instead of Reducer when
mixing the paint. ( I TOLD you it was stupid!) In my defense, the good
folks at PPG have a very handy can color and shape coding system for the
different primers, paints, etc. The only problem is that DX330 is in the
EXACT same shape/size can, and has the EXACT same color coding as the DT
reducer. Thanks a lot PPG! I'm not positive that I did make this mistake,
but both cans ended up next to each other while I was re-mixing "just a
little bit more" paint. When I got done, the 330 was in the spot where the
reducer should have been.
My question to you paint gurus is: Is this going to hurt anything? It
doesn't seem to have screwed up the paint, although it looks slightly
"drier" than normal. >>
I hope you finally got your canopy skirt cap installed before you got it
painted. We saw your naked bird on the ground at General Fox about a year
ago when we were enroute to San Diego and wondered if you would get around
to painting it someday.
Do you have the MSDS for each product. What are the constituents of each
product and their percentages. We can make a rough determination once we
know which solvents are being used.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Razers <razer(at)midwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure with RMI ? |
The RMI micro-monitor mainfold pressure function is pretty straight
forward. You've probably got a wiring glitch. Check out the wiring and
make sure no shield wires (or frayed ends) have shunted to sensor leads.
All 4 of my initial wiring installation problems originated from
improperly stipped shielded cable.
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I've got an RMI micro-monitor in my RV-8, and can't get the manifold
> pressure to display on the normal display. In sensor calibration mode, it
> reads fine, so I'm sure it's something I've got set wrong. Does this sound
> like a familiar gotcha to anyone? Unless someone else knows the secret to
> this, I'll give RMI a call when I get a chance.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, N174KT (taxi tested tough, inspection Saturday)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Navaid for Sale |
Hi Brent,
Thanks for the heads up, got to it too late.
I've Been getting a bit more done lately.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Brent's mail <vredding(at)home.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 5:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Navaid for Sale
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
> To: RV List
> Sent: May 21, 2000 1:05 PM
> Subject: RV-List: New Navaid for Sale
>
>
> >
> > I have decided to put a different autopilot in my plane, and no longer
> need
> > the Navaid. The servo was installed, but never run and the panel unit
is
> > still in the bag. All accessories still in box, wiring, etc. Cost new
a
> > year ago was $1200, I'll sell for $1000. I'll even throw in detailed
> > pictures of the
> > servo installation in the wing.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove MN
> > 763-494-8443 home
> > 763-582-2314 days
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any second thoughts |
Dwain,
My open question was to promote thought on how you deal with your own doubts
(if any) and how you deal with any family members who have concerns about
the safety of building your own airplane. I did not and do not intend to
"pack up my kit". I am sorry you are not able to see my perspective on this
topic. I guess angry responses to honest questions can cloud a persons
judgement.
Flame doused....
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: <DJaerosports(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Any second thoughts
>
> Dear Rick
> Your right , you should pack up your kit and sell it to someone who loves
> flying
> and who knows the risks . G.A. has way to many people who fly just to
say
> they fly . It use to be home building was a special gift some people had,
but
> now with the
> ease of these kits everybody thinks they have what it takes to build & fly
> one . Is this
> a flame ? You Bet !
> Dwain
> RV- 6
> So. Cal.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Tanks |
Mark,
I just finished the left wing on an RV8A, and did the latter approach. Once
I had the tank on, I then drilled the bottom skins, took off the tank, and
riveted the skins on and remounted the tank. The Z bolts aren't that bad.
Just do them before the screws. The ribs are a bit difficult to put back in
and don't forget the flap brace as you go.
Bill Christie, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark D. Dickens <mddickens(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 11:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mounting Tanks
>
> OK, I have what will probably turn out to be a stupid question, but hey,
may
> as well ask.
>
> I have my fuel tanks completed (by Evan Johnson, by the way and they look
> great!) and am about to mount them to the wing spar. I did not rivet the
> inboard three main wing ribs, intending to do them at the end as I rivet
the
> main skins on...the issue of course is that mounting the tanks will cover
up
> the rivet holes so I'm thinking that I either need to go ahead and rivet
the
> main ribs on, mount the tanks and do the best I can in riveting the main
> skins on or mount the tanks, remove the tanks, skin the wings and then
> remount the tanks at the end. The latter option would be fine except for
> the difficulty in getting to the Z channel mounting bolts....I'm sure I'm
> missing something...
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark Dickens
> Germantown, TN
> RV-8 Wings (duh)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | GPS / Compass interference & Antenna locations |
I have glareshield mounted vertical compass, a GPS ant. near by.
My compass has never pointed correctly. Moving the GPS ant. did not
seem to help. I have a RMI monitor near in the panel. I suspect
that is the problem. I have been looking for a metal that blocks
electronic emissions a builder claimed to work if installed between
the electronic unit and the compass. I can't recall the what is called.
I have asked around with no results.
One fellow seemed to think fine copper wire screen separating the two
would work. But I know that is not what the first chap use.
Does anyone know what that metal is or have another solution?
Denny
RV-6
Have good one!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manifold pressure with RMI ? |
Thanks, but I don't see how that could be possible. As I said, it reads
perfectly in sensor calibration mode. On the main display, the MAP area is
blank, not zero or some other invalid number. It's like I have it disabled,
but it shouldn't be unless the documentation is wrong.
Rusty
> The RMI micro-monitor mainfold pressure function is pretty straight
> forward. You've probably got a wiring glitch. Check out the wiring and
> make sure no shield wires (or frayed ends) have shunted to sensor leads.
> All 4 of my initial wiring installation problems originated from
> improperly stipped shielded cable.
>
> Russell Duffy wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I've got an RMI micro-monitor in my RV-8, and can't get the manifold
> > pressure to display on the normal display. In sensor calibration mode,
it
> > reads fine, so I'm sure it's something I've got set wrong. Does this
sound
> > like a familiar gotcha to anyone? Unless someone else knows the secret
to
> > this, I'll give RMI a call when I get a chance.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Russell Duffy
> > Navarre, FL
> > RV-8, N174KT (taxi tested tough, inspection Saturday)
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Listers;
Somewhere in the recess of my mind, I recall something being said about a
difference between store bought switches and aviation quality switches. I
have looked through all my library and cannot find any reference that
directs an answer to this ponderence. Tony Bingelis says that there are
probably many 'Radio Shack' switches out there in homebuilt aircraft, but it
bothers me to go 'downtown' for switches if I am supposed to be getting
aircraft switches. Even 'Electric Bob' seems quiet on this topic other than
to say that the switch should be heavy duty and a snap action switch which
is rated for the load to be placed on it. Where is the reference that I
remember about AC and DC rated switches? Can anyone point the way?
Thanks,
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Step Instructions |
I have a step kit which I aquired with a partially completed wing and
fuselage kit. I spent a good deal of time yesterday looking for plans
and instructions for the step but have not found them. I did locate bag
927 which has the mounting block and various rivets in it. No drawing,
no instructions.
I have found this to be one of the minor problems of buying a
prepurchased kit. There are bonus's too. Hey, what's in this box. Fuel
gauges, ELT, extra landing lights, nav lights, tools, etc.
What do the instructions look like? Full size drawing, or is it small
enough to be scanned and emailed to me. Is there someone close to
Alliston Ontario with this info? Should I just go ahead and install it,
making sure it clears the flap?
Roger Embree
fuselage (almost ready to remove from jig)
________________________________________________________________________________
I bought mine from Newark Supply. http://www.newark.com/ The ones I bought
were industrial grade switch/breakers and "look" just like the expensive
"aircraft service" items sold by the aircraft supply shops. I believe they
were Crouse-Hinds, but that's been a while.
Bryan Jones
-8 Inspection Tomorrow
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hevern" <jhevern(at)teleport.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Source for inexpensive Battery Load Tester |
Some time ago, there was discussion about the importance of testing or
otherwise ensuring battery capacity for those with electrical powered EFI or
Ignition. Also related was the note that starting power is not a sufficient
indicator of sustaining capacity. It appeared that either LOAD testing of
the battery or periodic replacement were the two favored approaches. Load
testing being the easiest and least expensive if you had a LOADing device.
I notice in the DAMARK catalog a 100 amp battery load tester for $19.99
tests six and twelve volt batteries and I have ordered one. If anyone else
is interested the part number is B-40440-735122 and the web site that it
can be ordered from by catalog is www.damark.com if interested. No vested
interest in the company or product.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rough engine |
>>I am getting tired of making such exciting test flights.
Jim, I suppose you are kidding but just in case you aren't, let me suggest
you ground your airplane and solve the problem.
Someone once said that engines talk to us when they are sick but we don't
listen. I think yours might be saying, "I'm warning you, this is the last
time for sure."
Can you duplicate this problem on the ground? Do all but taking off then
instead, set brakes and do a full power runup. Maybe hold it long enough as
if in a climb to 2000 or even more.
I would suspect a fuel supply problem just as you did, and begin by
disconnecting line downstream of all possible and test delivery over a
period of time such as 15 minutes.
I suppose you have checked tank vents - facing the right way, undamaged,
etc?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - real soon now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders, wrong types! |
> I'm now slinking back down to the shop, trying to sneak past wife, w/
> the letters "D U M B" written across my forehead.. HA!
Not DUMB RJ in CT, just "Student Builder". Often known as first time
builder. Us first timers are building "student projects" and asking those
who have graduated (completed) for help.
I would happily trade your fuel gauge issue for some of mine!!
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK - real soon now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for small xponder |
In the most recent issue of the Rvator there is a picture of an RV-4 panel.
There is a small transponder on the panel in that picture. Does anyone know
the make/model of that xponder? Is there another small transponder that
anyone knows of aside from the offerings by Terra?
Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 rollbar question |
I am getting ready to mount the roll bar on my RV-4. Before I do so (I
spent the entire weekend correcting my mistakes) I would like to know if
there's anything I should consider before I drill holes. Do I need to leave
room for the canopy hinge? Is there anything else I should take into
account before I make holes?
Thanks again!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Flap Brace Question |
In a message dated 5/21/2000 11:56:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
N8292W(at)aol.com writes:
<< I am working on the RV-4 wing and have a question on the flap brace. How
do
I cut it to fit around the step up portion of spar root plates?? The
directions say 'cut flap brace to step up on spar root plates.' Does
someone
have a digital picture or specific directions as to how to do this?? Any
help
would be greatly appreciated.
Also, should I use flat head rivets on the entire rear wing spar to ribs, or
only on the areas that will interfere with the flap support brace?? Thank you
-Mike >>
If I recall you need to cut downward and end the cut with a #30 hole to
prevent cracking, not sure on how many cuts I made, but it seemed like it
took 2 or 3 per flap. I think I clamped the brace in place and mark where
the rear spar flange first interferes with the brace and started there with
my first cut working inboard. As far as I know you only need flush rivets at
the top of the spar where the brace is attached.
Later,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wiring for Landing & Nav lites etc... |
I am currently planning the wiring that goes into the wing of my RV-8.
This has raised the question of whether how to handle GROUND return
wiring. Could make a ground connection to the nearest convenient point
close to each lite and let the wing/fuselage provide the GROUND return.
Or could run a separate GROUND wire all the way back to the battery.
Using the wing/fuselage to provide the GROUND return saves wire and
weight. Are there any subtle issues that one should know about regarding
this topic.
Thanks.
Tom Diede, finishing kit, RV8
N848TD reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Mentioning fuel flow brings to mind a problem or rather a worry that I have
with my fuel pressure indication. I have a RMI Mon. At around 6000' I have
noticed a couple of times the indication will read 1 psi or less. I switch on
the boost pump and it goes to 3 psi. No noticeable change in power with or
without the boost pump. With the boost pump on or off it indicates the same
on the ground or at low levels. This figure is sometime 4 psi and sometimes
3 psi.
I have the pressure line tapped at the carburetor inlet. My air
vents are no more than an inch below the bottom of the fuselage. They are
45 degree cut fitting as shown in the plans. As someone mentioned, I have
seen
a number of inlet vent tube made of tubing bent down into the air about 2 plus
inch below the fuselege. I don't know if that would be the reason that this
problem/worry occures up at a higher altitude.
Anyone with experience with this problem/worry?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wiring for Landing & Nav lites etc... |
I used the airframe for lighting ground. The only issue I am aware of where
a ground wire return would be needed would be an instrument where small
resistances might cause errors in sensitive measurements.
However, for a better answer, Mr. Bob's book, The Aeroelectric Connection,
would surely answer this. It's well worth the money, IMHO.
www.aeroelectric.com
Bryan Jones
-8 Inspection Tomorrow
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rough engine |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Mentioning fuel flow brings to mind a problem or rather a worry that I have
>with my fuel pressure indication. I have a RMI Mon. At around 6000' I have
>noticed a couple of times the indication will read 1 psi or less. I
May 15, 2000 - May 22, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-in