RV-Archive.digest.vol-iq
June 05, 2000 - June 09, 2000
>
> Mark,
> Congrats on the airplane move. Funny thing. I just moved N9X to the
airport on Saturday
> too. I had a big ceremony on Sunday --- parked my wife's car in the
garage for the first time
> in 7 years. She is a patient woman.
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, at the airport --- ready to slap on the wings and
fly
> Indiana
>
>
> >
> >
> > Lister's,
> >
> > I am at the airport, aircraft intact, no damage.
> >
> > Fellow Dallas area 8A builder Dave Dalski & I moved N783MS to the
airport
> > today, It was a tense 9 miles. We used a friends car hauling trailer &
> > Dave's pick-up.
> >
> > It is very different looking in to the garage after 23 months of
building &
> > seeing automobiles again.
> >
> > Advise on the moving to the airport.
> > 1. Find a good trailer.
> > 2. Have plenty of tie down straps
> > 3. Have many strong friends on hand to get A/C on & off the trailer.
> > 4. Take your time.
> > 5. Have a good friend like Dave to assist.
> >
> > I am excited.....Mark
> >
> > Mark Steffensen
> > 8A Dallas, TX
> > Final Assembly
> >
> >
> > _-
> ===========================================================
> > _-
> ===========================================================
> > _-
> ===========================================================
> > _-
> ===========================================================
> >
> >
>
>
> >** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A-QB Re: WD-643 |
> I'm installing forward rollover bar for canopy. Question is the
> 3/4 3/4 1/8 angle from firewall to meet the WD-643 where it goes
> through there is already a angle attachment in the way. And do you
> cut the wd-643 to length?
Sorry if this has already been answered... Answer to the first question is
"huh, could you rephrase that?" The answer to the second is yes, you do need
to cut the
WD-643 to length.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A project for sale |
A friend of mine is saleing his rv6-a project all shett metal done with real
nice workmanship. Canopy fitted. Bottom line is its ready to hangar the a
engine an install the panel. Price $30,000 any question call me at
817-439-3280 . Reason for the sale he has lost interest. This is a good
buy....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Review of Oil Cooler Failure |
socal-rvlist(at)egroups.com, "Tom DeMarino"
Hi all,
Sorry I didn't reply to some of the questions over the weekend, I was away from
the computer working on getting my RV-6 back in the air.
First, I'm glad I've stirred all this discussion.
Second, I've had some time to look back and see what I did right and what I did
wrong, or could have done different.
Third, thanks to all who wrote.
The flight and what I was thinking
When I was 30 NM out (still in my prescribed 35 nm radius) at 6500'. I saw a
small drip of oil in the in front of the rudder peddles. I also saw several very
small streaks of oil coming out of the upper cowl intersection. I still had
good oil pressure, and never saw any more evidence of a major oil leak. I
throttled back to limit the pressure in the system and headed to my 1st choice
of emergency airports. (Good decision). In my mind I had a oil fitting leaking
and nothing more. So far everything was under control (in my mind). I kept
the power low and used up altitude slowly to keep the speed up.
(Side note. People have noted that the oil pressure may have been running to
high at 90 psi. I looked in the Lycoming handbook and they say limits are 57
to 95. This is on a new engine. I also compared the electric gauge to some other
mechanical gauges, mine reads about 3 psi high at 90 psi. The oil cooler
is rated to 147 psi [10bar]).
Mistake #1.
I made my first mistake by passing over a good landing strip at Santa Paula. I
was still at 2500 feet, good oil pressure, and temp, and my home airport (where
I had a hangar and tools) was just another 10 miles or so down the road.
I let my desire to get to a place where I could fix my airplane get in my way of
getting the airplane down safely as soon as possible.
I kept an very close eye on oil pressure and temp (my thinking was that I would
see a temp raise if the oil got to a very low level). As I approached Camarillo
(home base) I informed the tower that I had a oil problem and requested a
priority landing. I didn't declare an emergency because I still didn't think
I had one. If I had lost oil pressure, let me assure you I would had declared.
The tower controller gave me priority and cleared a short approach. I did
just that (wouldn't you know I made my best landing to date) and cleared the runway.
Ground asked what my oil problem was, I said I had oil an oil leak, but
that it couldn't be that bad because I still had oil pressure. He said thanks
for letting them know.
What I did right
I informed ATC that I had a problem.
After taxing back to the hangar (another mistake) and getting out of the airplane,
I finally realized the magnitude of the oil leak.
Big Mistake #2
Just because I didn't see a lot of oil didn't mean there wasn't a lot going out
the bottom. I could have run out of oil trying to stretch the last 10 miles,
and seized the motor. That would be a bad day.
Just lucky I guess.
What really scares me now was the possibility of lighting off the oil on the exhaust
pipes. I could have turned a simple oil leak into a burning airplane because
I didn't think I had a big problem. That would be a REAL bad day. I had
a parachute in the car, but I didn't wear it in the plane, (mistake #3). I
will for the rest of the flight test.
I'm glad I told the story (even though it was to inform people about the Setrab
oil cooler failure) because it brought about good discussion about emergencies
and other good stuff.
It's never a bad thing to look back and analyse your actions and how you handled
it, and to have others look with you. Thanks to all those who made comments.
I didn't feel any of the comments were flames, just legitimate questions of
my actions.
BTW, I still had 2.5 qts of oil in the sump (Lycoming says 2 is min. at low power).
Yeepee!!!! I didn't hurt the motor!!
I'll report on the oil cooler postmortem when I do it later today.
I'd rather be lucky than good,
Laird RV-6 (still leaking oil out of the fuse seems)
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Review of Oil Cooler Failure |
>
> Laird RV-6 (still leaking oil out of the fuse seems)
> SoCal
Hey no fair....that's cheating the corrosion gods. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Review of Oil Cooler Failure |
>snip<
>What really scares me now was the possibility of lighting off the oil on
>the exhaust pipes. I could have turned a simple oil leak into a burning
>airplane because I didn't think I had a big problem. That would be a REAL
>bad day. I had a parachute in the car, but I didn't wear it in the plane,
>(mistake #3). I will for the rest of the flight test.
>snip<
For what it's worth, or maybe to simply add to our collective understanding,
my carburetor problem I had in my -8 could have also started a fire. When
the float locked up, I had a FAB box full of fuel that was relieving itself
into the cowling and along the bottom of the airplane. The exhaust pipes are
indeed right there in the midst of this fuel stream but there was no fire,
either in flight or immediately after landing the plane in glider mode.
Fuel was literally pouring out of the cowling. I have found that the last
several inches of the Vetterman exhaust do not get hot as installed in my
plane. Yes, they do get warm, but I can place my hand on them without any
fear getting burned. Yes, it could have ignited if fuel had sprayed further
up the exhuast system, where temps are much higher. Makes me cringe just to
think about it.
It is also a common practice to place the crankcase breather outlet over one
of the pipes to hopefully cook off the gunk that our engines spew forth.
"Cook" no, but perhaps slowly evaporate? I do not know of any fires that
have occured from this but if there have been any, I sure would like to know
about it!
As for using the parachute for the remaining time on your test period...
Absolutely! I didn't experience my carburetor problem until my 40 hour test
period was over.
I'm very glad you got it down OK and are safe. I also did some not-so-good
things in handling my emergency, and in the use of sealant on the finger
screen nut which caused the problem in the first place. Evidently, the good
stuff I did outweighed the bad, as in your case.
Stay safe.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
| Subject: | Transition training |
Hi all,
I mentioned recently that I received an excellent checkout in an RV-6 from John
Henley, but
neglected to post any contact info. If you're located anywhere near the Florida
panhandle (or
wherever else he might be traveling), and need transition training, you'd be hard
pressed to find a
better instructor. John is a retired Air Force Colonel, and CFII, with a very
nice RV-6 that he's
been flying for a few years now. If you need a checkout, drop him an e-mail, and
maybe he can help
you out too.
His contact info is:
John Henley
Rv6plt(at)cs.com
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (flying 3hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Small beginnings... |
Im7shannon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi tom and yes, you will never get your airplane built if you dont start. I
> am building an RV-9A myself, and it is a real rewarding experience already,
> just looking at the empennage sitting there in my garage waiting for me to
> quit playing with this computer and start on the wings.
I too have just started my RV9A. What a hoot! I love working on it. Just
finished the Horizontal Stab and it looks great. Building the Jig for the
Vertical skinning (frame riveted). Haven't figured how everything lines up yet
(twenty or thirty more readings and I should have it). Another fellow on the
field (SMX-Santa Maria, CA) just ordered an RV9A too. Shouldn't we have a
"rv9a-list" now that so many are building 'em?
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson update |
Jon left Salmon Arm, B.C.at 09:00 today on a flight plan to Yellowknife
N.W.T. , estimated arrival at Yellowknife 14:00.
Jon and I checked the arctic weather together this morning and he has good
VFR conditions.
If these weather conditions hold he was going to refuel at Yellowknife and
press on to Eureka which is on the 80th parallel about 400 miles from the
north pole. He should arrive at Eureka in the wee hours of the morning.
Darkness north of Yellowknife this time of year is not a factor as it is
daylight 24 hours a day.The temperatures at Eureka this morning hanging
around minus 3-5 C. He will hold up there for some rest and and then over
the pole and on to Norway, about a 14 hour haul.
I sure we all wish him God speed.
Eustace Bowhay - Blind Bay B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Small beginnings... |
I agree---I hereby submit my vote to have a separate category for -9
builders. Picking up my wing kit this Friday! Yipee
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
I sell a great GPS antenna that is amplified and is black in color for
mounting on the glare shield. It could be mounted outside in the wind
stream or concelled elsewhere. The Lowe antenna is also a great antenna,
I know because I have one, but note the location of the cable coming out
of the antenna. The cable is also not removeable from the antenna.
Look on my website at the address of : http://www.gretzaero.com
You will see my antenna there along with the other products I sell.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811
________________________________________________________________________________
Does any body know a source for an inverter 24VDC to 1/60/110 with a capacity
of up to 700 watts? This is RV related.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Another RV-8 takes to the air.
N48WD, S/N 80681 saw daylight under her wheels for the first time yesterday,
June 4. 2 more flights today.
She flies like an RV but has a few kinks to iron out. For one thing, the
prop governor seems to work normally on the ground and for the first few
minutes of flight but then goes into" passive mode"and will not reduce the
RPM. Might be oil Temp. related. Ideas anyone? I believe that my airspeed
might be reading a bit high but cannot find my chart that relates inches of
water pressure in the pitot system to airspeed. I had saved this thing for
many years too. Does any one out there have this info?
Stats:
Engine-IO-360-A1B6 from Bart
Prop-new Hartzell from Van
Instrumentation-VFR with avionics from UPS. Allegro Engine monitor with
power monitor from Technology Kitchen. Navaid autopilot
Empty weight-1101 includes everything-paint, upholstery, fire Ext., & 9
Cu.Ft. oxygen system
Colors-basic white with light gray & purple trim colors
Still Grinning
Bill Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
>
>Another RV-8 takes to the air.
>N48WD, S/N 80681 saw daylight under her wheels for the first time yesterday,
>June 4. 2 more flights today.
>
>She flies like an RV but has a few kinks to iron out. For one thing, the
>prop governor seems to work normally on the ground and for the first few
>minutes of flight but then goes into" passive mode"and will not reduce the
>RPM. Might be oil Temp. related. Ideas anyone? I believe that my airspeed
>might be reading a bit high but cannot find my chart that relates inches of
>water pressure in the pitot system to airspeed. I had saved this thing for
>many years too. Does any one out there have this info?
>
>Stats:
>Engine-IO-360-A1B6 from Bart
>Prop-new Hartzell from Van
>Instrumentation-VFR with avionics from UPS. Allegro Engine monitor with
>power monitor from Technology Kitchen. Navaid autopilot
>Empty weight-1101 includes everything-paint, upholstery, fire Ext., & 9
>Cu.Ft. oxygen system
>Colors-basic white with light gray & purple trim colors
>
>Still Grinning
>
>Bill Davis
>
Bill,
Congratulations!
I've got a spreadsheet on my web site that will do what you want. Go
to my RV Links page:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html
Go to the Flight Test section, Pitot-static System Calibration
I'm considering the Allegro engine monitor. What do you think of it?
What is the company like to deal with?
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
Hi there,
I'm looking for the E-mail address of D.J.LAURITZEN (trying to find a
supplier for stick boots)
thanks
Karl RV6A 50 Hours
KARL AHAMER NSW AUSTRALIA
ASCOT(at)HINET.NET.AU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Use the E-word! |
Thanks Ed.
I concluded after much checking and run-up that I must have had a piece of
gunk of some sort or some water. I do have my tanks topped off EVERY TIME I
return to the hangar and my fuel samples all seem to come out clean.
When I was pretty sure it would still fly, I devised a "test flight plan"
and along with another pilot executed this in the pattern (with tower
permission of course). Complete with altitude callouts and plan of attack
for "emergency/engine out" landing spot call outs.
It will take some time for the confidence to build back up to where it was
as this had never happened before.
Relevance to RV ...
When you do the testing and run into a little problem like this, be sure and
have a plan for the next flight and stick to it. Your mind will be both
sharper (more focussed) and potentially "myopic"(??) (overly focussed). So
don't give yourself to much lattitude until you feel that "problem" has been
dealt with.
Just one person's opinion. But what do I know ... I have never test flown an
RV. ;-)
James
RV test flight still years off it seems.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Use the E-word!
>
> Good post James. I think a lot of times controllers will "declare"
(without
> necessarily telling the pilot) an emergency.
>
> BTW, did you figure out what caused the shudder?
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
> RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
> ebundy(at)micron.net
>
>
> > ME: "Ahh, Columbia Ground, is all the activity for us?"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjc <bjc(at)btconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Pilot Operating Handbook Ver 3.0 |
Dear Fellow RV Builders / Flyer's
An Updated version of Roger Hopkinson's POH is now available for download at
www.rv6.co.uk
This exelent POH has been written by Roger (RV6A reg: G-HOPY England) and
has taken many hours of hard work to produce.
If you download a copy please drop him an email of thanks to
roger(at)ghopy.flyer.co.uk ; his RV details and photo's appear on the rv6 web
site.
best regards from all in England
Barry Clifford
RV6A wings - G-RVBC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
jrdial wrote:
> Does any body know a source for an inverter 24VDC to 1/60/110 with a
capacity of up to 700 watts? This is RV related.
Have you tried West Marine or BoatUS?
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marksnow(at)cavemen.net (Mark Snow) |
RV'ers
I'm looking for a schematic for a narco MK 12 D/R. If any one has one or
can refer me to some one who does it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Mark Snow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Hi guys,
A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll
have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible'
and noticed their starter set.
Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
Thanks for any help!
- Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
In a message dated 6/6/2000 8:57:26 AM Central Daylight Time,
ludwig(at)azstarnet.com writes:
<<
A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll
have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible'
and noticed their starter set.
Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
Thanks for any help!
- Bill
>>
get brown aviations tool get. They have the best prices by far. I ordered
from them and am very happy.
Order the avery squeezer though from avery as they have the best one.
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket #000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Jon's Progress |
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: Jon's Progress
>Hi Bjomar:
>
>Jon arrived in Eureka about an hour ago, had a good flight was on top of a
>low overcast most of the way but it cleared before arriving in Eureka so he
>didn't have to do an approach. He is going to bed and get a good sleep and
>will advise me his departure time and Norway estimate. Will keep you
posted.
>
>Eustace
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bjrnar Vollstad <bjv2735(at)online.no>
>To: Eustace Bowhay
>Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 12:13 AM
>Subject: SV: Jon's Progress
>
>
>>Hi Eustace! Thanks for telling me about Jon's progress. In 3 hours I am
>>flying from Oslo to Troms in my RV-4 to meet Jon there. I have a hot
mail
>>where I can check further mail to my PC, but to be sure I should like to
>>have Jons departure time (GMT) from Eureka and flight time to Troms also
>>sent to the following address: aasmund.viksaas(at)caa.no
>>BjV.
>>-----Opprinnelig melding-----
>>Fra: Eustace Bowhay [mailto:ebowhay(at)jetstream.net]
>>Sendt: 6. juni 2000 05:10
>>Til: bjv2735(at)online.no
>>Emne: Fw: Jon's Progress
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
>>To: Sue Ball
>>Date: Monday, June 05, 2000 8:08 PM
>>Subject: Jon's Progress
>>
>>
>>>Hi Sue:
>>>
>>>Just talked to Jon again and the Eureka weather is clearing out so he is
>>>going right through to Eureka tonight. Will try to keep you posted.
>>Current
>>>temperature at Eureka is minus 2 C so shouldn't cause any problems.
>>>
>>>Eustace
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Try Cleveland Tool in the yellow pages.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ludwig [SMTP:ludwig(at)azstarnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 08:59
Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Now that I'm just a few weeks from launch of my RV8 QB, it's clear that the
two most frustrating and time consuming aspects of building, which could
have been avoided, were not having tools when I needed them, nor the parts.
Note that in SE Idaho, nothing is available locally..
The $600 Avery RV kit is just a starter. I have a receipt book for tool
purchases an inch thick totalling about $2700, and my same colection of Vans
invoices is about 2" thick. Seemed like every two weeks I'd have to stop
building, or at best switch to some other build task while I waited for
either tools or parts. That included waiting 6 mo. for the QB kit...
Were I to do it all over I would first make all design decisions (like where
the oil cooler goes, instrument panel layout, instuments, firewall layout
(!), interior, antennas, cabin heat ducting, control location, etc.), then
order all kits and subkits from Vans at once, all instruments, wiring,
antenna, .... Seemed like I ended up pretty much buying at least one at
everything in Vans catalog.
Of course the real trick is coming up with the list. I've been meaning to
write up a final tool list and perhaps a list of unforseen parts/tasks etc.
for out local chapter, but like all other tasks it takes time away from
building. Email if interested.
--Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM, paint prep, paint, and windshield fairing remains..24 mo. 2300
hrs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Ludwig
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:59 AM
Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
Hi guys,
A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll
have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible'
and noticed their starter set.
Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
Thanks for any help!
- Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
I'm _very_ happy with Avery's tools AND their service. I never tried to
e-mail them but they are very responsive on the phone and I have received
tools overnight. (No, I'm not affiliated with Avery in any way :) )
Otherwise, I have stayed with Mastercraft, Craftsman and Campbell Hausfield
for power tools (Cordless drill, Dremel tool), airtools, compressor etc.
Just can't beat that life time warranty!
Good luck and have fun!! (I do)
Are
RV-6 empennage - C-GQRV (reserved)
Ontario, Canada.
Bill wrote:
I need a good starter set of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to
Avery asking for details on his RV sets - no response. I also just received
the Aircraft Spruce 'bible' and noticed their starter set.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
In a message dated 6/6/2000 10:05:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com writes:
<< Otherwise, I have stayed with Mastercraft, Craftsman and Campbell Hausfield
for power tools (Cordless drill, Dremel tool), airtools, compressor etc.
Just can't beat that life time warranty! >>
who has a life time warrenty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I trimmed my cowling edges a little short. Trimmed it again & it is still
too short.
Anyone got any tips on how to add it back. I built two forms & cut up
glass in the resin & ended up with a ball that wouldn't go in the form.
don't got any cotton flox but I think that my do. I don't think micro
would have any strength. Had the top real good when I drilled the
hinges, but when you change the pins to .090 it ended up with a gap that
I don't like.
Glenn Gordon showed me how to terminate the side pins which is really
cool.
If any one is thinking about those glass planes, just try & work what we
have to & that will be the end of that. I hate fiberglass.
I was shipped the extruded hinges for the nose section BUT the plans call
for screws & nut plates which I didn't get. I think I was in between
changes from the factory. Anyway, I put .040 plates under the screws
heads & the nut plates. I used glass under & over each plate like
George does in the video on his hinges. Worked out OK except when you try
& rivet along with fiberglass, you really make a mess. Now I got a bulge
on the upper that don't line up with the lower, so guess what. I got to
do more fiberglass. When I get to all the hinges, do you think I could
just forget to add the cloth. Maybe George wouldn't ever find it.
I went right along with the plans & installed 14 1/2 inch hinges on the
bottom of the lower cowl & now that the scoop is getting close, I will
have to shorten them a lot.
Any techniques you guys have on that D&%* fiberglass, PLEASE submit to
me.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Hi Bill,
You would not go wrong by getting your tools and advice on tools from
Avery Tools. Bob Avey is first class and he only carries tools he can
stand behind. As to the second part of your question, I doubt you would
not find a need (desire) for just one more tool. Course if you got every
tool in Averys catalog you might solve that problem. Other tool companys
are good too. But Avery started his company to satisfy RV builders, so he
sort of specializes in RV tools I believe. And quality.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>Hi guys,
>
>A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.
>It'll
>have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s
>prop,
>moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
>full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
>
>I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience,
>but
>no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good
>starter set
>of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details
>on
>his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce
>'bible'
>and noticed their starter set.
>
>Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set
>and
>one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
>another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>- Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Bill,
You'd be surprised at what you can find in the way of used aircraft tools on
Ebay. My wife got me a like-new pneumatic squeezer for $275, and not too
long ago I bought a rebuilt 2X rivet gun for $60. Just bought a Sharpe
Platinum HO spraygun kit with a Cobalt primer gun for $350, less than the
cost of the Platinum itself. Keep your eye out, but its hit-or-miss; you'll
still be ordering plenty of stuff from Avery.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S
drilling rear spar to fuselage tonight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder counterbalance weights |
How do you get the 2 screws that hold the rudder counterbalance
weights in place to lie flat against the rib? The diameter of the
screw heads looks quite a bit larger than an 1/8 inch dimple die or
countersink. Do I need a larger countersink just for these 2 screws?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A empennage
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
>
> I trimmed my cowling edges a little short. Trimmed it again & it is still
> too short.
> Anyone got any tips on how to add it back. I built two forms & cut up
> glass in the resin & ended up with a ball that wouldn't go in the form.
I'm no glass guy but here's my .02.
First, be sure the gap really is too big..! You want some gap in there
otherwise once you paint it the paint buildup on the edges will close the
gap and chip off all that much sooner. 1/16" gap may look big but is
probably about right.
You're right about not using microballons -- no strength. If the you're only
building up a little you can probably get away with milled glass. I've used
it and it is pretty strong! Just make sure you overlap. I'd sand the outside
and inside a bit thinner with coarse sandpaper to give the stuff some bite,
then spread a little milled glass/resin mix along the outside surface along
the edge maybe 1/4" back or so. Then clamp a strip of alclad to that side,
then gob on a little more all down the edge and overlapping the inside
surface as well. You can put mold release on the alclad but I've found that
clean alclad will pull away okay without it. This will leave a very ragged
edge but that's easily sanded straight.
Alternately you could add glass cloth strips. Sand the existing edge thinner
then lay some cloth so it overlaps. Probably best to get at least one layer
overlapping the cowl on each side maybe 1/4" to 1/2" back or so, with a
couple more thin layers in between and outside the existing edge. Once
you've laid that up you can sandwich the whole thing between strips of AL
(you can put mold release on but bare alclad will work ok) and clamp the
strips lightly together and you'll have less sanding and filling to do.
Whenever you're doing this piddly stuff don't worry about the weave being
diagonal or anything. Its impossible to do anything with thin strips cut on
a bias.
Good luck. You'll get there.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy Dollarhide" <dollarhide(at)ti.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
I just started building a RV6 and ordered the Kit Builder tool kit from
Aircraft Spruce.
There are a number of items in Van's list of needed tools that are not in
the
kit I bought. I picked up most of this locally. The aviation specific
stuff
I ordered from Brown's or Avery and a few items I picked up off e-bay.
The Master Kit Builders kit from Spruce is probably more complete, but I
was trying to save a buck.
Billy D
RV6A
------Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Ludwig
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
Hi guys,
A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build. It'll
have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce 'bible'
and noticed their starter set.
Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
Thanks for any help!
- Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)avidyne.com> |
>I trimmed my cowling edges a little short. Trimmed it again
>& it is still too short. Anyone got any tips on how to add it back.
Don,
Put a rounded cone-shaped stone in your dremel and remove about an inch and
a half at an angle so that the edge is now sharp. Acetone surface. Do
whatever you have to do (i.e mylar sheet taped to the top surface) so the
layup has a shape and won't stick. Cut strips of cloth the length of the
edge and about two inches wide. Resin down, layup, resin, layup, etc. I
think the older style cowls had about six layers of 6-8 oz cloth, I'm not
sure. After it cures sand down the inside as necessary and then retrim your
new edge.
I wrote this up in perhaps painful detail for the Bay Area RVators
newsletter, let me dig it up and send it to you. I did the same thing on
the bottom of my cowl: little trim, little trim, stop there and adjust
something else, then a 3/16" gap appeared from nowhere!
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit
Bedford, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Try this,
Extend edges, at least where you want strength, by adding fabric. This
ensures strength. You can trim again once this is done. Before adding
material, make where you want to trim with Cowl installed so you can trim
later. Refinish new material with micro or flow followed by filler to
finish.
Extend material by sanding (tapering) edges to extend. Sandwich new glass
material on both sides and press between stiff metal forms covered with
clear packing tape and clamped together. This will ensure a very compact
finished extension.
Apologize for graphics:
CLAMP
==================
metal form ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
new glass -----------------------
Original Cowl =======================/////////////// extended edge
new glass -----------------------
metal form ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
==================
CLAMP
Call 503-397-6207 if you have questions.
Mike Wilson, RV-4
james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Jordan [mailto:dons6a(at)juno.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass?
I trimmed my cowling edges a little short. Trimmed it again & it is still
too short.
Anyone got any tips on how to add it back. I built two forms & cut up
glass in the resin & ended up with a ball that wouldn't go in the form.
don't got any cotton flox but I think that my do. I don't think micro
would have any strength. Had the top real good when I drilled the
hinges, but when you change the pins to .090 it ended up with a gap that
I don't like.
Glenn Gordon showed me how to terminate the side pins which is really
cool.
If any one is thinking about those glass planes, just try & work what we
have to & that will be the end of that. I hate fiberglass.
I was shipped the extruded hinges for the nose section BUT the plans call
for screws & nut plates which I didn't get. I think I was in between
changes from the factory. Anyway, I put .040 plates under the screws
heads & the nut plates. I used glass under & over each plate like
George does in the video on his hinges. Worked out OK except when you try
& rivet along with fiberglass, you really make a mess. Now I got a bulge
on the upper that don't line up with the lower, so guess what. I got to
do more fiberglass. When I get to all the hinges, do you think I could
just forget to add the cloth. Maybe George wouldn't ever find it.
I went right along with the plans & installed 14 1/2 inch hinges on the
bottom of the lower cowl & now that the scoop is getting close, I will
have to shorten them a lot.
Any techniques you guys have on that D&%* fiberglass, PLEASE submit to
me.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Setrab Cooler Postmortem |
(sent for the second time, first didn't make it out of cyberspace)
Hi all,
Time for the Setrab oil cooler postmortem.
First off, it's going to be real difficult to write what I'm seeing without you
guys having a picture of what I'm describing, but I'll give it my best shot
The short answer: There was a material failure of the cooler, that looks like
a fatigue failure. What caused it could be several things, and I don't have any
way of telling which one was the root cause.
So....it failed, I'm alive, I'm switching to a S/W cooler. Hopefully, end of story.
The long answer:
Let's start at the beginning.
The oil cooler in question is a Setrab 16 row aluminum auto racing oil cooler.
It weights about 1.5 lbs. It's working pressure is 147 psi or 10 bar. It was
installed on a new 0-360-A1A. It had about 3 hours on it when it failed.
It was mounted hard on the left baffle behind the #4 cylinder. The mounting scheme
I used had two L brackets that were riveted to the baffle/doubler and picked
up the right side of the cooler. The left side had floating L brackets that
1st bolted to the left side of the cooler, then bolted to the baffle at the
far left side, using the angle that get bolted to the cylinder head. The idea
for floating the left side brackets is to clamp cooler without putting any preload
on it when tightening it down. In hindsight, it was probably getting preloaded
as it got hot and expanded.
The oil lines (silicone jacketed aeroquip) were routed from the back of the engine
to the left side of the cooler. This engine is equiped with a spin on oil
filter. There was adequate slack in the hoses as allow movement. You could move
them by hand to see the slack, but they did not have excessive slack. There
were no secondary supports for the hoses.
The installation had been inspected by at least 5 A/P's and dozens of other folks.
Some questioned why I would want to use an automotive cooler...good question
in hindsight.
During flight I was seeing 90 psi at the gauge (later calibrated, reading 3 psi
high) so real psi reading was more like 87 psi. Oil temps were 225 (that gauge
has not been calibrated yet). Lycoming recommends 57 to 95.
I've already described in detail the flight where it failed.
Cooler disassembly-
The top of the cooler was cut away using a cutoff wheel to expose the crack at
the tube closest to the AN-8 nipple.
Closer inspection shows that the cooler tubes are made up of .015 alum, stamped
in halves to create the tube when put together. (I'm sure the stamping thins
the material in areas where it is streched). There are 16 rows of these tubes.
On the last row on either side, it looks like the exterior wall is about .025
thick. there are 2 AN -8 nipples welded to this thicker plate on one side.
There is also some additional reinforcement to the mounting tabs.
The crack appeared in the radius of one of these thin stampings just adjacent to
the AN-8 nipple.
The load of the hoses is taken into the thicker material on the exterior. The
nippples are within 3/4" of the mounting lugs.
The crack is about 1" long, and is visible to the naked eye. Closer examination
under a microscope showed that it was not an explosive type of crack, as in
too much pressure, but probably the result of fatigue due to either vibration
or load of the hoses or both.
There you have it. In my opinion, the material of the of the cooler is insufficient
for the loads introduced by mounting it on the rear baffle.
There is a very good possibility that the material thickness was insufficient for
this application or could have been below factory specs. It may have been
a fluke that it failed. We'll never know.
In any case, in my installation it failed. The S/W I'm replacing it with looks
much more robust.
The main reason for this post is not to point fingers at either the cooler or my
installation, but to let those people who are using them know about my failure
and the possibility of failure in their cooler.
Laird RV-6 (soon to be flying again...with a parachute)
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Hi Bill,
On Tue, 6 Jun 2000, Bill Ludwig wrote:
> no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
> of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
The FAQ, the archives, and Van's website all have copious amounts of
information on the tools you'll need and where to get them, as do many
RV-related websites.
-S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Setrab Cooler Postmortem |
Thanks Laird, for taking the time to share your oil cooler story and the follow
ups. It's this kind of post that makes the list such a valuable tool.
On another issue, do we and idea who all is going to Arlington yet.
Garry RV6 Finishing
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Time for the Setrab oil cooler postmortem.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
mechanical pump inlet? I want to run my fuel tube above the rudder
pedals. I can't see an inch or two causing cavitation at the pump, but
....
Chris Browne
-6A Finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Cleaning Off Bugs |
Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.??? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
flying...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
I personally wouldn't live without the air squeezer. I've watched others
dimpling spars, and stiffeners etc with a hand squeezer and you couldn't pay
me enough to spend that much time on something like that. I can tighten the
air squeezer into my vice, and run that stuff through it so fast you
wouldn't believe it. In the time it takes to hand squeeze one stiffener, I
can do the entire side with the pneumatic. Time is money, or time is time
and I'll waste neither with the pneumatic. Riveting along the spars goes
amazingly quick too. I was asked recently how I completed a non pre-punched
empennage in 30 days including priming everything internal. All I could
respond with was that I know how to read plans, and I don't waste a lot of
time. I learned long ago, if there is a tool made that makes things go
significantly faster......you are just wasting time every second you don't
have it. I'm a contractor, so time really is money to me.
If I were to start again there are a few things I would change and a few I
would not. First, I wouldn't order those damn snips...useless as pneumatic
tools in my girlfriends hands. I have not used them once. I use the die
grinder ($20 - home depot) with a cut off wheel for everything......it's not
only fast but I can do surgery with that thing and never miss a line (keep
the air pressure up). I still wouldn't waste any money on a bandsaw, the
die grinder is easier, you can trim the skins AFTER they're riveted in place
(insuring a perfect fit), and it doesn't take up valuable bench space.
Again, I would not even consider a hand squeezer, I bought a used pneumatic
with two yokes for $250. I also will never use an oil free small tank
compressor again, now that I have the large tank oiled type. It runs less
often and is quiet enough to have a conversation with someone in the garage
while it's going. Pop rivet dimplers and vice grip dimplers are also can't
live without items in my book. I used all Avery stuff, but have no doubt I
could have saved money if I chose to look around a bit.....like at Brown. I
recently had the pleasure of poking my head in STEVE THE PANEL PILOT'S
(shameless plug for a great guy) restoration of a 1960ish 170 (I believe).
In there I saw some very very old zinc chromate which had zero corrosion
beneath.....confirming my belief that all the etching alodining and two part
epoxy primer in the world is not really necessary (my belief, and only my
belief....don't flame me for having an opinion based on my military and
civilian experience). That being said, spraying a rattle can of zinc
chromate over etched (no alodine) ribs and stiffeners as well as the
interior of the skins has saved me LOTS of time over the etch/alodine/two
part epoxy in a spray gun process. Granted, 30 years from now....it may
need restored, but I doubt it. I love my 1" belt and disc sander, and use
it almost as much as the bench grinder with scotchbrite wheel. Angle die
grinder with a Roloc sanding disc and scotchbrite discs have proven helpful
as well.
Ok, I've typed more than enough considering how little I know :-)
Hope it helps someone.
Bill Shook
-4 wings fuselage on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Chris Browne wrote:
>
>
> For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
> suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
> mechanical pump inlet? I want to run my fuel tube above the rudder
> pedals. I can't see an inch or two causing cavitation at the pump, but
> ....
>
> Chris Browne
> -6A Finish
> Atlanta
>
"Firewall Forward", T Bengelis, pg. 169 "Install the fuel lines so that
they slope downward from the gas tank to the gascolator/main strainer
without any upward reversals. By the same token, the fuel line should
have a constant upslope from the gascolator to the carburetor without
any reversals."
In "Engines" he puts it a little differently. "Carefully route your
fuel lines so that there are no low places in them between connections.
That is, try to run each fuel line in a constantly rising or descending
slope. Between...fuel tank and selector valve/selector valve and
gascolator/ gascolator and the the electric fuel pump/electric pump and
engine driven pump/ engine pump and carburetor".
The basic idea being to avoid having a second place for water to collect
and to prevent a place for vapor lock.
Boyd
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winsted <rv6av8tor(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Century 2000 AP/Servo Question |
Just wondering if anyone has installed a century 2000
autopilot or similar and could answer a few question I
have.
1. Where did you end up placing your servos?
2. Did normal access through the 639 and 640
provide access for installation and inspection of the
servo.
3. Were you able to locate both servos in the
cockpit?
Thanks for the help...
Don
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
In a message dated 6/6/2000 2:25:41 PM Central Daylight Time,
BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com writes:
<< Here in Canada, we have a francise called 'Canadian Tire' and Sears.
Canadian Tire sell MasterCraft tools and Sears sell Craftsman tools. These
tools all have lifetime warranty (as far as I know). As long as you have the
receipt, you can bring it in any time you like and get a new replacement -
even if you drive over it with a steam roller. I have received replacements
several times myself. >>
I thought you were talking about the power tools from sears. only the
craftsman hand tools have a lifetime warrenty.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Securing cowl side pins 6A |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
To Norman & Craig & everybody:
Glenn Gordan is to blame for this NOT ME. He indicated he is going to
write it up one of this days.
He Faxed me his drawings & to make a long story short, You do just like
George does is the picture show except you leave the pin straight. I
ended up with about 5/8 inch of the pin bend down 90 degrees . If you do
it right & it is close it folds down in a notch in the f/g cowl & is
secure by one round head #8 ( Glenn used a #10) screw & the plate on the
inside. Next time I won't cut the notch till the screw & plate is in.
The left side of my airplane is going to be about 3 knots slower than the
right due to all my mistakes.
It can't move back against the cowl or in against the plate or forward
against the screw.
I used a .040 plate about 1 inch square in the inside to hold the nut
plate.
I got one rivet through one ear of the nut plate & the other one through
the glass & the plate. I plan on added one more. Really looks nice.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Adding Fiberglass to the edge |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I hope this comes out OK. I got & will re post the very good information
I recieved from all the white hats out there on my SHORT cowling edge. I
did everthing wrong that they mentioned, but the main thing I learned is
I got to have fiber to repair it. I will TAPER sand it & try again.
Thanks again. I will post each one below with ******** as separators
because this is good data.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
>
> Try this, Extend edges, at least where you want strength, by adding
fabric.
> This ensures strength. You can trim again once this is done. Before
> adding material, make where you want to trim with Cowl installed so you
can
> trim later. Refinish new material with micro or flow followed by filler
> to finish.
> Extend material by sanding (tapering) edges to extend. Sandwich new
> glass material on both sides and press between stiff metal forms
covered
> with clear packing tape and clamped together. This will ensure a very
> compact finished extension.
>
> Apologize for graphics:
> CLAMP
> ==================
> metal form ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> new glass -----------------------
> Original Cowl =======================/////////////// extended edge
> new glass -----------------------
> metal form ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> ==================
> CLAMP
>
> Call 503-397-6207 if you have questions.
> Mike Wilson, RV-4
> james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com
********************************************************
Hey Don,
Sounds like you will still need to blend some cloth from those edges for
support. For structural work I swear by West Systems 404 filler. I wet
out
strips of 10oz cloth and put resin with 404 in a soupy mixture between
the
layers. In other words I use it like glass matting. I noticed Sam James
does the
same. Point is if you are trying to extend an edge you will need to do it
with
cloth. Build it up big and ugly then get out the rotary sander and sand
it till
its pretty.
Eric
**************************************************************
Don,
Put a rounded cone-shaped stone in your dremel and remove about an inch
and
a half at an angle so that the edge is now sharp. Acetone surface. Do
whatever you have to do (i.e mylar sheet taped to the top surface) so the
layup has a shape and won't stick. Cut strips of cloth the length of the
edge and about two inches wide. Resin down, layup, resin, layup, etc. I
think the older style cowls had about six layers of 6-8 oz cloth, I'm not
sure. After it cures sand down the inside as necessary and then retrim
your
new edge.
I wrote this up in perhaps painful detail for the Bay Area RVators
newsletter, let me dig it up and send it to you. I did the same thing on
the bottom of my cowl: little trim, little trim, stop there and adjust
something else, then a 3/16" gap appeared from nowhere!
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit
Bedford, MA
*****************************************************************
Don,
How much of a gap is there? When I was trimming the sides of my cowling,
I
trimmed one side too much and had to build it back up. I scarfed the
joint
and added several layers of fiberglass, then sanded and sanded. Worked
out
great.
Fiberglass isn't that bad, you just have to be patient with it. You've
already got the rest of the plane done, just plug away with the
fiberglass
work every day until its done. Just another obstacle to overcome if you
want to fly that airplane. You can make it all work.
Bob
******************************************************************
I'm no glass guy but here's my .02.
First, be sure the gap really is too big..! You want some gap in there
otherwise once you paint it the paint buildup on the edges will close the
gap and chip off all that much sooner. 1/16" gap may look big but is
probably about right.
You're right about not using microballons -- no strength. If the you're
only
building up a little you can probably get away with milled glass. I've
used
it and it is pretty strong! Just make sure you overlap. I'd sand the
outside
and inside a bit thinner with coarse sandpaper to give the stuff some
bite,
then spread a little milled glass/resin mix along the outside surface
along
the edge maybe 1/4" back or so. Then clamp a strip of alclad to that
side,
then gob on a little more all down the edge and overlapping the inside
surface as well. You can put mold release on the alclad but I've found
that
clean alclad will pull away okay without it. This will leave a very
ragged
edge but that's easily sanded straight.
Alternately you could add glass cloth strips. Sand the existing edge
thinner
then lay some cloth so it overlaps. Probably best to get at least one
layer
overlapping the cowl on each side maybe 1/4" to 1/2" back or so, with a
couple more thin layers in between and outside the existing edge. Once
you've laid that up you can sandwich the whole thing between strips of AL
(you can put mold release on but bare alclad will work ok) and clamp the
strips lightly together and you'll have less sanding and filling to do.
Whenever you're doing this piddly stuff don't worry about the weave being
diagonal or anything. Its impossible to do anything with thin strips cut
on
a bias.
Good luck. You'll get there.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
*********************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
A20driver(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.??? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
> flying...
>
>
Hangar 16 Aviation-Formula products, Meguiar's Aircraft Maintenance
products, Supercoat cleaner, Norstar Aircraft Cleaning products and Fast
Wing products are all aviation approved. Do not use Fantastik, 409 or
(sadly) Simple Green as they are corrosive to aluminum.
Boyd
RV S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Hi Boyd,
I saw all of that in Tony's book, but a continuous downward slope from the bottom
of the fuel tank
is impossible on an RV. The plans, as well as most installations I have seen,
have tubing which
forms a loop that rises from the boost pump then back down to the gascolator.
My question is, since
this is upstream of the gascolator (which will trap water anyway) and given that
this loop already
exists to some degree in almost every RV, can it rise above the inlet of the mechanical
pump?
Naturally, the "loop" is inside the cockpit and not subject to engine heat.
Chris
"InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116" wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
> > suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
> > mechanical pump inlet?
> >
> "Firewall Forward", T Bengelis, pg. 169 "Install the fuel lines so that
> they slope downward from the gas tank to the gascolator/main strainer
> without any upward reversals. By the same token, the fuel line should
> have a constant upslope from the gascolator to the carburetor without
> any reversals."
>
> In "Engines" he puts it a little differently. "Carefully route your
> fuel lines so that there are no low places in them between connections.
> That is, try to run each fuel line in a constantly rising or descending
> slope. Between...fuel tank and selector valve/selector valve and
> gascolator/ gascolator and the the electric fuel pump/electric pump and
> engine driven pump/ engine pump and carburetor".
>
> The basic idea being to avoid having a second place for water to collect
> and to prevent a place for vapor lock.
>
> Boyd
> RV S6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
if you get some cotton cheesecloth the same kind you
use tomput on a cast for a broken arm it is available
from Kimberly clark the part number is 301purified,
you wet it with water and get the bugs good and wet ,
then come back with a plastic cleaner as from your
canopy the purified makes quick work of the bugs
Glenn
--- "InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116"
wrote:
> (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with ESMTP
>
> A20driver(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have or know of a good method of
> removing smashed bugs from
> > leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.??? Jim
> Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
> > flying...
> >
> >
> Hangar 16 Aviation-Formula products, Meguiar's
> Aircraft Maintenance
> products, Supercoat cleaner, Norstar Aircraft
> Cleaning products and Fast
> Wing products are all aviation approved. Do not use
> Fantastik, 409 or
> (sadly) Simple Green as they are corrosive to
> aluminum.
>
> Boyd
> RV S6
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Brake Pedals |
> Could some one with an RV8 tell me the part number of the brake pedal? The
> flat piece of thick sheet with pre-punched lightening holes in it.
> I am trying to find out if all current RV models use the same brake pedal.
>
> Thank-you
> Norman Hunger
Norman,
RV-8s use a completely different pedal... it is welded together of thick
aluminum and quite nicely sculptured. It is not a flap piece of pre-punched
aluminum. In my opinion they are a definite step up from the standard RV-6
pedals. Maybe you could retrofit them?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, fwf
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Here's an easy question for all you lycosaur experts.
What do I do with the oil breather fitting ( O-360 ) if I don't plan to install
an oil breather?
I understand that some folks just vent it to the exhaust pipes, if so, what kind
of hose did you use?
- Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finishing )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Bill,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (moving to the hangar)
Niantic, CT (Westerly, RI)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
What is wrong with where the designer placed it. I know there are RVs out
there that have a pressure drop when at full power.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing
>
> Hi Boyd,
>
> I saw all of that in Tony's book, but a continuous downward slope from the
bottom of the fuel tank
> is impossible on an RV. The plans, as well as most installations I have
seen, have tubing which
> forms a loop that rises from the boost pump then back down to the
gascolator. My question is, since
> this is upstream of the gascolator (which will trap water anyway) and
given that this loop already
> exists to some degree in almost every RV, can it rise above the inlet of
the mechanical pump?
> Naturally, the "loop" is inside the cockpit and not subject to engine
heat.
>
> Chris
>
>
> "InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116" wrote:
>
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
> > > suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
> > > mechanical pump inlet?
> > >
> > "Firewall Forward", T Bengelis, pg. 169 "Install the fuel lines so that
> > they slope downward from the gas tank to the gascolator/main strainer
> > without any upward reversals. By the same token, the fuel line should
> > have a constant upslope from the gascolator to the carburetor without
> > any reversals."
> >
> > In "Engines" he puts it a little differently. "Carefully route your
> > fuel lines so that there are no low places in them between connections.
> > That is, try to run each fuel line in a constantly rising or descending
> > slope. Between...fuel tank and selector valve/selector valve and
> > gascolator/ gascolator and the the electric fuel pump/electric pump and
> > engine driven pump/ engine pump and carburetor".
> >
> > The basic idea being to avoid having a second place for water to collect
> > and to prevent a place for vapor lock.
> >
> > Boyd
> > RV S6
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A N86CG 1st flt (long) |
Chris,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (moving to hangar)
Niantic, CT (Westerly, RI)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
Jim,
Do you mean to say that you won't be installing an oil seperator?
-Glenn Gordon
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> Here's an easy question for all you lycosaur experts.
>
> What do I do with the oil breather fitting ( O-360 ) if I don't plan to install
> an oil breather?
>
> I understand that some folks just vent it to the exhaust pipes, if so, what kind
> of hose did you use?
>
> - Thx,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ ( finishing )
> N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder counterbalance weights |
I just machine countersunk the weight, so when you tighten the screw it sucks
the head into the rib and countersinks itself.
Kevin Shannon
-9 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
>
>
>Here's an easy question for all you lycosaur experts.
>
>What do I do with the oil breather fitting ( O-360 ) if I don't plan to
>install
>an oil breather?
>
>I understand that some folks just vent it to the exhaust pipes, if so, what
>kind
>of hose did you use?
>
>- Thx,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8AQ ( finishing )
>N89JA ( reserved )
Jim,
Slip a length of regular automotive rubber radiator (heater)hose over the
engine fitting and route it down to the exhaust ramp area or directly over
one of the pipes.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eCharts <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
> I understand that some folks just vent it to the exhaust pipes, if so, what kind
> of hose did you use?
I had a 12" piece of stainless tube welded to the exhaust pipe and then attached
a
rubber hose from that point to the breather. The metal tube keeps the hose away
from
the hot exhaust, and the whole system keeps the belly from getting covered with
oil. Works great.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
eCharts
http://www.eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Pilot Operating Handbook Ver 3.0 |
Barry,
Does Roger include the weight of the POH in the weight and balance before flight?
;-)
I ran the printer out of paper, twice!
It's a work of art!
Laird RV-6 (the construction manual should be so complete)
SoCal
Dear Fellow RV Builders / Flyer's
An Updated version of Roger Hopkinson's POH is now available for download at
www.rv6.co.uk
Barry Clifford
RV6A wings - G-RVBC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Century 2000 AP/Servo Question |
DON
I have installed the century 2000 auto pilot in my RV-8. It was actually a
pretty simple job. I have been working with Century---Martin Oswald on
drawings and pictures. You can contact him at Century Flight Systems
1-800-433-5630. EXT 604.
Or you can contact me online if he cannot help you.
Regards,
TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
Hi Jim:
Just did this last weekend after flying 10 young eagles in the Ercoupe. If
you get to them early (read that as part of your post flight) all it takes
is some plain (or plane....sorry!) old water and a soft rag. They come off
easily *if* you get to them early enough....that is when they are still gooy
and soft.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
hanging aileron on second wing
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: A20driver(at)aol.com <A20driver(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cleaning Off Bugs
>
>Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
>leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.??? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
>flying...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
I met a guy in memphis who swears by lemon pledge for removing bugs.....even
uses it on the canopy of his beautiful yellow RV-8
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleaning Off Bugs
>
> Hi Jim:
>
> Just did this last weekend after flying 10 young eagles in the Ercoupe.
If
> you get to them early (read that as part of your post flight) all it
takes
> is some plain (or plane....sorry!) old water and a soft rag. They come
off
> easily *if* you get to them early enough....that is when they are still
gooy
> and soft.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> hanging aileron on second wing
> Peshtigo, WI
> -----Original Message-----
> From: A20driver(at)aol.com <A20driver(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 4:15 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Cleaning Off Bugs
>
>
> >
> >Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
> >leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.??? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
> >flying...
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-ez , RV List
| Subject: | Gretz Aero Cyber Problems |
Greetings, I found out last night and checked out the problem today and
I am not receiving any order sent to Gretz Aero by way of my website. I
am not sure of the problem fix as yet. If you placed an order with me
lately (last few weeks) and have not heard from me, please e-mail me
right away and describe what you want to order. Or, you may call me in
the evenings or on the weekends and place the order again. I also have a
recorder on the phone line.
My website address is http://www.gretzaero.com but, at this
time do not place orders by way of the website. I will post a notice
when it is fixed. Please call me or send me an e-mail in the meantime.
Sorry for the inconvience.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
303-770-3811 evenings and weekends, or leave a message on the recorder
warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hargrave <bobby.hargrave(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight RV8, N426NC, s/n 80706 |
Dear friends and RV Builders:
I would like to announce that RV8 s/n 80706 made its first flight yesterday
afternoon at 5:56 p.m. from Milton FL airport. It left the ground after
250-300' takeoff roll and climbed at 1900fpm / 90kias to 1400'. It orbited
the field 24" / 2400 rpm indicating 147-160 kias. Oil temps 130 to 170 @
85 psi. CHT 240-280. EGT did not indicate at all so I must have wired the
instrument backwards. The airplane was in trim with a centered balance
ball. Slight aileron trim was needed to correct for fuel burn during
flight. Landing was uneventful after a 15 minute flight. The champagne
tasted nice afterwards.
"Thank you's" to Rusty Duffy, Jack Rowell and Dale Holbert who served as my
ground team and who helped me build this thing over the past 2 years.
Thanks also to John Henley who checked me out in his RV-6 prior to my
first flight. His instruction was very professional and introduced me to
performance characteristics of the RV series aircraft. Words fail to
express the thanks owed to my wife Nancy and sons Paul and Mark who helped
me build and listened to my whining about platenuts for these 2 years. It
was a special day for us and I was glad to have them witness and share in
yesterdays moment. The RV grin helped to hide the tears as I taxied back
to the ramp and shutdown the engine.
Best wishes to you all.
Bob Hargrave
Tech. stuff:
1086 empty wt/ 77.8 cg (for those keeping score this is fwd of limit before
loading fuel and pilot. Battery is on f/w.)
210 pilot/chute
150 fuel
1446 TOGW for test flight
Aero Sport O-360-A1A
Hartzell c/s; Woodward gov.
Panel IFR instruments; Van's engine, fuel gauges.
Becki Ordorff's seats (which are just right height by the way).
Pacific Aero Harness
No paint or wheel pants/fairings as yet.
photos on website below.
http://home.att.net/~bobby.hargrave/pages/firstflight.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
I use Pledge......
----- Original Message -----
From: <A20driver(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 1:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cleaning Off Bugs
>
> Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.??? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
> flying...
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>
>jrdial wrote:
>
>>Does any body know a source for an inverter 24VDC to 1/60/110
with a capacity of up to 700 watts? This is RV related.
See:
http://www.tripplite.com/products/family/verters/pvplus.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Larry & Kevin,
Re: the Allegro So far I like it fine. My only complaint would be that the
liquid crystal display could use a little more contrast but I find that to
be so with all liquid crystals (Except the VM-1000) and is probably more
because of these old eyes, a younger person probably wouldn't complain.
The operating scheme is not particularly intuitive but is easily enough
learned. It is very light,reasonably priced, and packs a whole lot of info
into a small package. Reliability remains to be seen but it carries a
lifetime guarantee.
Bill N48WD Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Jim Brown,
One of those sponges with a coarse nylon mesh around it and plain water
works great. You can find these in automotive stores. For those bugs that
are really baked on, some people swear by Adolph's meat tenderizer.
Bill Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Jon's Departure Eureka |
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: Jon's Departure Eureka
>Hi Bjornar:
>
>Talked to Jon about an hour ago and he was proposing off Eureka at 01:30
GMT
>and estimating 13:30 enroute Tromso. Weather over the pole is good with the
>temperature at the Pole around the freezing mark. He says he is burning
more
>fuel in the colder temperatures and may have to land in Spitzbergen, he
will
>make that decision enroute.
>
>The distances in nautical miles are 600 to the North Pole 705 Spitzbergen
>and 517 to Tromso and he is hopeing to do these legs in 4 hrs, 5 hrs and 3
>hours with no landings.
>
>He says he is quite comfortable and warm enough in flight but also
commented
>that he would not want the outside air temps at altitude much cooler.
>
>I will check with Eureka in another half hour and get you his actual time
>off.
>
>Eustace
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
| Subject: | Calibrating Airspeed |
Would whoever sent me the web site with the airspeed calibration data send
it again. Sorry, but my finger slipped on the delete button before my brain
was ready.
Thanks, Bill N48WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
>> I understand that some folks just vent it to the exhaust pipes, if so,
what kind
>> of hose did you use?
>
>I had a 12" piece of stainless tube welded to the exhaust pipe and then
attached a
>rubber hose from that point to the breather.
Was it welded at an angle or straight in? I thought of doing that,
but didn't know whether there would be back pressure.
I tried installing a can but it didn't work very good.
Have good one!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Todd" <motodd(at)pol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Setrab Cooler Postmortem |
I've been 'sensitized' to the issue of automotive oil coolers after having a
friend blow his on a RV4 (O 360) while I was close in trail a couple of
years ago. Fortunately, I was in a position to immediately notify him of
the problem and he turned direct for the airport about three miles away,
landing straight in with less than 3 quarts.
Brain Costello, Textron Lycoming service rep, told me at the time (and
confirmed again today) that the oil cooler circuit sees *unregulated* oil
pressure which typically exceeds 250 psi (and can be over 350 psi in a
poorly executed cold weather start). IMHO, this is not the place for 'high
performance' automotive oil coolers, some of which advertise being tested
with air to 175 psi (or less).
I'm sure that there are people out there who will want to defend their
choice of automotive oil coolers for their project. Just be aware of the
facts and make an informed decision about what level of risk you're willing
to assume. To quote Brian,
"The use of anything other than a tested aircraft cooler is dangerous,
foolish and will void any warranty, assuming the homebuilder survives. You
may quote me if you wish."
I humbly suggest that we take Laird's lesson to heart and cut costs
somewhere else.
Mark
RV4 owner
KAWO
----- Original Message -----
From: Owens, Laird <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Setrab Cooler Postmortem
>
> The short answer: There was a material failure of the cooler, that looks
like a fatigue failure. What caused it could be several things, and I don't
have any way of telling which one was the root cause.
> So....it failed, I'm alive, I'm switching to a S/W cooler. Hopefully, end
of story.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Tromso weather |
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: Tromso weather
>Hi Bjormar:
>
>Jon was off Eureka at 02:07 GMT.
>
>Eustace
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vikss, smund <aasmund.viksaas(at)caa.no>
>To: 'Eustace Bowhay'
>Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:41 AM
>Subject: SV: Tromso weather
>
>
>> -----Opprinnelig melding-----
>> Fra: Eustace Bowhay [SMTP:ebowhay(at)jetstream.net]
>> Sendt: 6. juni 2000 16:42
>> Til: aasmund.viksaas(at)caa.no
>> Emne: Tromso weather
>>
>> Hi Bjornar:
>>
>> Would it be possible for you to send me the weather forecast for Jon's
>> arrival so I can pass it on to him before he departs Eureka.
>>
>> Eustace
>>
>[Vikss, smund]
>
>
>TAF ENTC 061524 20008kt 9999 few030 bkn050
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Briggs <flybobbriggs(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | View rv-4 project |
I am interested in purchasing a partially
completed RV-4 project that is located in South
Dakota. If there are any RV builders in the
Watertown-Brookings area that would be able to
preview the project for me, I would greatly
appreciate your help.
Please contact me if you are able to help in a
technical evaluation of the work to date.
Thanks, Bob Briggs
Shelburne,Ontario, Canada.
________________________________________________________________________________
> >
> >I understand that some folks just vent it to the exhaust
> pipes, if so, what
> >kind
> >of hose did you use?
> >
>
> Slip a length of regular automotive rubber radiator
> (heater)hose over the
> engine fitting and route it down to the exhaust ramp area
> or directly over
> one of the pipes.
>
I don't recommend using a standard automotive heater hose; it is not
oil resistant. I initially used a heater hose for the engine breather
hose for my O-320. After about 2 1/2 years (400 hours or so) the hose
started to sweat oil. I replaced it with an oil resistant hose.
Also, I did not terminate the hose directly at the exhaust pipe.
Rather I inserted a short length of tubing at the end of the hose to
use as a "nozzle" so that the hose does not get too close to the
exhaust pipe. (I used 1/2 dia. copper, because I had a piece.) If I
remember correctly, this was shown in the builder's manual.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 521 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
>
> Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.??? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
> flying...
As was mentioned in an earlier post, water and a soft cloth works really
well . Since the nearest water to our hangar is about a hundred yards away,
I use a 2-qt garden sprayer sprayer with a built in hand pump to pressurize
the thing. As part of my post flight, I walk and soak them all first. They
then come off very easily.
Bob Hall
RV- 6, Colorado Springs
Newly concerned about bugs with a new paint job.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
> Slip a length of regular automotive rubber radiator (heater)hose over the
> engine fitting and route it down to the exhaust ramp area or directly over
Sorry I didn't keep a record of the part number or what it fit but I went
into an auto parts store and asked for a hose that fits this (socket) and
bends 90 degrees. Nice formed hose resulted.
A nicely formed piece of LIGHT WEIGHT fully formed aluminum tubing would be
a good product - Mr. Gretz???
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Delano" <mdelano(at)mho.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
After you clean the leading edge wipe it down with lemon Pledge, the next
time you fly the bugs will dust off the wing and apply another coat of
Pledge. I have done this on the canard of my Long EZ for years and it
really works
Mark Delano
EAA Tech. Coun.
6A fus.
A20driver(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.??? Jim Brown, NJ, RV-3 & 4
> flying...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Calibrating Airspeed |
<<< RV-List message posted by: "rvpilot"
>
> Would whoever sent me the web site with the
airspeed calibration data send
> it again. Sorry, but my finger slipped on the
delete button before my brain
> was ready.
>
> Thanks, Bill N48WD>>>
Hi Bill,
I didn't send you the info, but here it is anyway,
Recently there was a thread regarding the
calculation of TAS from a
series of GPS airspeed measurements. I made a
comment that it was only
necessary to fly three different legs to collect
sufficient information
to calculate TAS.
I have put (.pdf format) a more detailed
explanation on my newly
created web page.
http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
Doug Gray>>>
Cheers'
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
>
>
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through
>
===========
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
http://www.matronics.com/search
http://www.matronics.com/archives
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
===========
Matronics!
http://www.matronics.com/order
>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Repton <pm-rvlist(at)pteron.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Operating Handbook Ver 3.0 |
Mail-Followup-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Hello Yall
>
> This is indirectly RV related. I am attempting to look at the POH and
> the aircraft painting program off other builders web sites and have had
> no luck. I can down load the file to my hard drive, but am unable to
> view it do to my lack of a NetZIP.exe file in my C: drive. I get a
> ZIP page and attempt to download what I thought was the correct file
> with no luck. What am I doing wrong.
>
> Sorry for my lack of home computer literacy. I make up for it in
> automotive computer repair knowledge.
>
George,
I recommend you download and install a program called WinZIP (it is
widely available on the web and usually on the CDROMs that come free
with computer magazines). It is very user friendly - once it has
installed, all you do is double click on a ZIP file in the file manager
and WinZIP will run and unzip it for you.
This of course assumes that you have windows on your computer - if not
let me know and I'll think of another way to help!
Regards
Andy
--
BoomerangDomains support - support(at)boomerangdomains.com
domain registration, email and web forwarding for just $25 a year
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wil Ramsey <wilr(at)eoni.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Bill
The Avery kit that has complete set is good, not quite complete, but a very
good start. I suggest getting both the 2x & 3x rivet guns if you can
afford. 2x
is the ticket for small skin rivets, very controllable and with the swivel
driver head (an extra, results are great.) 3x for heaver size 4 rivets. Start
with low pressures and use scrap to practice.
Videos of building are a great help. Don't cover everything, but do get you
going in the right direction. If you don't have experience (like me, and are
building alone) they are recommended.
I don't know if you are acquainted with unistrut conduit supports, they
make an
excellent framing jig. Also, the hinge brackets available from Avery to
do the
horizontal stabilizer are a good investment, don't know what else you would
use.
Enjoy, it is a great kit and makes you feel like you know what you are doing.
Wil Ramsey
working on wings, QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Chris,
I did this, too. My fuel line goes up and over the rudder pedals and then
down to the gascolator on the firewall. I don't like the look of that rise
in the gas line and may relocate it. I would appreciate it if you post
off-line replies to the List.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A baffles
-----Original Message-----
For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
mechanical pump inlet? I want to run my fuel tube above the rudder
pedals. I can't see an inch or two causing cavitation at the pump, but
....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Bill . . . I, too, am building an 8 ("A" version) quick build. If you can
handle an Excel spreadsheet I'll send this separately which is a very
complete list of tools that I worked off of in setting up my shop. It may
be overkill, but it certainly has provided me with just about everything
I've needed. Contact me off line if you'd like it . . . rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
>
>Hi guys,
>
>A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.
It'll
>have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
>moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
>full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
>
>I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
>no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
>of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
>his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce
'bible'
>and noticed their starter set.
>
>Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
>one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
>another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>- Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Listers--
At Oshkosh 2-3 years ago, there was a vendor hawking a nifty little Head Up
Display unit for general aviation. It was rather impressive, but I wasn't in
the market at that time. I even picked up the literature, but have long since
disgarded it.
Does anyone know if that manufacturer is still around? Any leads on another
maker of a lightweight HUD? I scanned the Yeller Pages, but didn't see any
references to a HUD.
Thanks.
--Don McNamara
N8RV (fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Boyd,
I while back I spoke to Tom Hallendorf about the Super-6...said that he
wasn't planning on offering kits. He did say that a gentleman has the jig
for the engine mount and that he might sell me one...do you know anything
about this? If I had the engine mount I could figure out the rest. I'm
going to start on RV-6 #2 (maybe a Super-6, haven't decided yet) this summer
after #1 is flying...
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Broadwing IT Consulting
bob.japundza(at)broadwing.com
current client site: bjapundza(at)dowagro.com
current client phone: 317-337-5348
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
Bob--
I wonder if there's something about the vibration frequency of a rivet
gun that affects peoples' minds so that they can't stop:)
For a while, and probably still is, Tom was pretty secretive about the
design as he didn't want a certain nameless person to be able to
"steal" his idea like they did with John Harmon (he's also big on
government conspiracies, esp. Bill Clinton's secret dope smuggling ring
in Arkansas). But, I'm reasonably
sure that he said he had or was going to have some engine mounts made
and set aside in case a future opportunity came along.
Do you still have his address/phone?
Boyd.
>
>
> Boyd,
>
> I while back I spoke to Tom Hallendorf about the Super-6...said that he
> wasn't planning on offering kits. He did say that a gentleman has the jig
> for the engine mount and that he might sell me one...do you know anything
> about this? If I had the engine mount I could figure out the rest. I'm
> going to start on RV-6 #2 (maybe a Super-6, haven't decided yet) this summer
> after #1 is flying...
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob Japundza
> Broadwing IT Consulting
> bob.japundza(at)broadwing.com
> current client site: bjapundza(at)dowagro.com
> current client phone: 317-337-5348
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Regarding List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
> >...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.....
> >...I need a good starter set of sheet metal tools.....
> >...I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on his RV sets - no
response.
> >
Hey, Bill. Welcome to your best project ever!
Before you order anything assess your building profile. Are you a
"workshop" guy, moving from project to project, buying all the tools along
the way? Or...are you a "build it to fly it" guy - do what's necessary to
complete the project then forget about the shop. I am the latter type.
Since I didn't win the lottery I have to make choices - I am building it
once and flying it until I'm too old. You can spend less then $30 thousand
(Rvator article) or more than $150 thousand on the plane not counting tools.
Know yourself!!!
Determine the kind of builder you are. You are building an -8 QB. Although
a lot is done you still have to do a little of everything for the 51% rule
(no shortcut on tools). I would start with the tools specified in the Avery
A-kit plus the B-kit. I bought 90% of these plus a few other things (I have
a spreadsheet of the order) from Avery due to the quality and the "volume
discount". I would feel comfortable with Avery, Cleveland, and probably
Brown. Limit your additional purchases until you complete the empenage when
you will have a really good understanding of plane building skills and other
tool needs. Fewer tools of high quality is a better policy than buying a
lot of junk. After you develop the skill (emp.) you will know what
additional tools you want - eg: bucking bars. Plan to think out your
requirements for shooting primer - booth, clothes, mask, ventilation, etc.
However, buy a good oil bath compressor with a cast iron motor - much less
noise. Unless you are a workshop guy you can save a lot by not getting a
heavey duty job for professional painting - I spent less than $350US. You
need a nice work bench and tool bench with average quality bench vise, drill
press, band saw and grinder. You need a good breaking type torque wrench
for the life of the airplane. I use a good recharger hand drill a lot - my
air drill very little.
BTW Avery is one of the best to deal with - by phone, letter, fax, web site
or email. Based on heresay and the RV-List the others seem to be fine.
Being a "build to fly" guy, I was willing to spend a minor premium to ensure
quality tools. I am starting the RV-9A wing - I have yet to see any need
for more tools - other than a bolt gauge.
Happy building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
> Go over and pick up that old rubber water hose that has been laying
> in the noon day sun and run the hot water that you would normally run
> out on the ground into a bucket.
Good advice.
> some elbow grease and a little patience and they will come right off.
Bad advice, IMHO, the elbow grease wears out the paint. Leading edges take
beating enough and you sure don't want to scrub on the acrylic windshield.
>Get up very early in the morning.(the dew is on the control surfaces then
>they wipe right off when they have been dew soaked
Get the dried on protoplasm soaked thru and put on something that digests it
but not the aluminum or paint. Surely auto stores must have such? Lye
(such as Easy Off oven cleaner) would work well and not harm paint (?) but
don't get it on the aluminum.
Doubtless some builders simply replace the skins.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
What is supposed to happen if the fuel line is not downhill all the way to
the gascolator?
1 -- With a downhill run, any water, being heavier than fuel, flows more
quickly to the gasco where it can be removed. (Impossible with RVs)
2 -- With an uphill run, any water, being heavier than fuel, remains in the
tank near the drain where it can be removed. (Not like Van's design!)
3 -- With an uphill and downhill run, any water, being heavier than fuel,
gets confused??? clogs the line??? WHAT - I need help understanding!!!
During preflight, drain the sumps. This gets any water that didn't make it
over the 'hill'. Drain the gasco getting water which did make it over the
'hill'. I suppose some water might be gathered in any interim low spots but
this would have to have come from the fuel that remained in that short
section of pipe since the last run of the engine.?
Mine (RV6a) runs up out of the tank, down near the floor, up to the fuel
valve, down to the floor, up to the firewall, down to the gasco, up to the
engine pump, down to the carb. Will it fly?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/7/2000 10:21:22 AM Central Daylight Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
<< Bob--
I wonder if there's something about the vibration frequency of a rivet
gun that affects peoples' minds so that they can't stop:)
For a while, and probably still is, Tom was pretty secretive about the
design as he didn't want a certain nameless person to be able to
"steal" his idea like they did with John Harmon (he's also big on
government conspiracies, esp. Bill Clinton's secret dope smuggling ring
in Arkansas). But, I'm reasonably
sure that he said he had or was going to have some engine mounts made
and set aside in case a future opportunity came along.
Do you still have his address/phone?
>>
Hmm, thats a pretty cheap shot at Team Rocket. Well then again it is a very
cheap shot at Mark Fredricks and Team Rocket.
You might want to check into your facts before you spout off about stuff you
don't know.
I looked at the RV 4 and the 8. Wanted something faster. I called Vans up
what can I do, any modifications or any faster planes coming out. THey said
nope. But I might be interested in a Harmon Rocket.
So I went out on the net, found Harmons phone number and a picture of Mark's
plane and his number.
I called up Harmon and spoke to him. Nice guy, sent me the info on the kit
and all that. However he was not interested in a quick build. He wanted to
stay the way he was. NOthing wrong with that, but at over 2000 hours to
build a harmon rocket I was not able to do that.
But Mark fredricks had a company that build parts for a harmon rocket so I
called him up. Very nice guy, In fact one of the nicest I have met in the
experimental field. He gave me some ideas and then he said wait a year. I
am looking at coming out with a quick build rocket. I was sold.
But you know john was the orginal designer so I called him back and asked if
he was going to do a quick build and once again he said no.
So I went back and talked to Mark alot. FInally he and team rocket announced
his kit. I went to Fun an Sun just to meet mark. I couldn't swing the cost
of the kit at first so I waited. Then I talked to Mark some more and he
invited me down to stayat his house and see how the kits were build and all
that. First time a company didn that! Then I got a call saying kit 000 was
avialiable and I bought it. I bought it because of Mark and I have abused
him in the building process so far since my kit is not quite the same as the
F1 rocket. Minor difference to be sure, but things are different, espcially
since my kit had been worked on by team rocket.
Mark had become a good friend though out this and I for one am not going to
let someone say he stole the design. The F1 rocket is different then the
Harmon rocket just as the harmon is different then the RV4. Mark took a
Harmon and improved it just like Harmon improved the RV4. So by your
thinking then Harmon also "stole" vans design of the RV4
I think people need to grow up a little. If John Harmon would have wanted to
build a quick build he would have. He didnt and therefore someone else
stepped into that void and did.
Thats the truth.
Chris Wilcox
Oshkosh, WI
F1 rocket Kit #000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
I should have mentioned that my breather line is mostly aluminum with a
short piece of hose at the top.
It has been suggested that heater hose might not be oil resistant. Quite
possible especially if the hose was intended for inside the car. Hoses do
seem to either soften or harden with time. If a straight, unformed hose is
used, there is the possibility it would collapse in any sharp bends.
Clearly the best would be aluminum tubing, bent to shape with a few inches
of straight oil resistant hose at the engine. Same goes for fuel pump drain
line.
hal
----- Original Message -----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Breather
>
> > Slip a length of regular automotive rubber radiator (heater)hose over
the
> > engine fitting and route it down to the exhaust ramp area or directly
over
>
> Sorry I didn't keep a record of the part number or what it fit but I went
> into an auto parts store and asked for a hose that fits this (socket) and
> bends 90 degrees. Nice formed hose resulted.
>
> A nicely formed piece of LIGHT WEIGHT fully formed aluminum tubing would
be
> a good product - Mr. Gretz???
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tampa Area RV Builders |
MIKE
come on down, i have an rv6a in the finishing stage.
813-932-3995 office
813-871-9050 home
813-927-1651 cell
813-879-0020 fax
a-bay a/c & heating
206 n. armenia ave
tampa, fl. 33609
scott reviere
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Calibrating Airspeed |
I cannot get this link to work. Is it correct?
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> Recently there was a thread regarding the
> calculation of TAS from a
> series of GPS airspeed measurements. I made a
> comment that it was only
> necessary to fly three different legs to collect
> sufficient information
> to calculate TAS.
>
> I have put (.pdf format) a more detailed
> explanation on my newly
> created web page.
>
> http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
>
> Doug Gray>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Calibrating Airspeed |
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> I cannot get this link to work. Is it correct?
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
>
> > Recently there was a thread regarding the
> > calculation of TAS from a
> > series of GPS airspeed measurements. I made a
> > comment that it was only
> > necessary to fly three different legs to collect
> > sufficient information
> > to calculate TAS.
> >
> > I have put (.pdf format) a more detailed
> > explanation on my newly
> > created web page.
> >
> > http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
> >
> > Doug Gray>>>
>
It's been moved to:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from GPS runs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
call me with more details after he gets some rest.
As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
www.jonjohanson.on.net
I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it possible
to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
days.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Calibrating Airspeed |
It's been moved to:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
<http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html>
go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from
GPS runs
Can someone else check that link? I'm getting an "Unrecognized response
from the server."
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP
[mailto:bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 11:49 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Calibrating Airspeed
vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with ESMTP
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> I cannot get this link to work. Is it correct?
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
>
> > Recently there was a thread regarding the
> > calculation of TAS from a
> > series of GPS airspeed measurements. I made a
> > comment that it was only
> > necessary to fly three different legs to collect
> > sufficient information
> > to calculate TAS.
> >
> > I have put (.pdf format) a more detailed
> > explanation on my newly
> > created web page.
> >
> > http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
> >
> > Doug Gray>>>
>
It's been moved to:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from
GPS runs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Dies |
Craig, Ihave just finished the second (right) tank without using the tank
dies. On the left tank I did use them and had a lot of slightly tipped
rivets, due in my opinion from the looser fit of the rivet in the larger
dimple. On the second tank I had no tipped rivets at all in spite of doing it
alone. (My building partner was available on No.1.) The tank dies are
sometimes useful for dimpling the bottom piece, such as ribs, especially
under 0.032" skin material due to the larger dia. of the dimple on the bottom
of the skin and where you have to use countersunk pop-rivets. Personally I
would not use them on the tanks as the proseal is slippery stuff and allows
things to move around much more than normally. It is possible that the
proseal variety supplied by Van's now is less viscous than earlier versions,
requiring less space. I spent about 10 hours in 80+ degree heat putting the
right tank together without any difficulties due to stiffening of the
proseal. Maybe the stuff is just less viscous at 80 deg. Another tip when you
rivet the tanks: Be sure to wipe off the tail of the rivet befor you buck.
This will provide for better control and fewer clinched and tipped rivets.
Do this when back riveting too. Also, don't use huge amounts of proseal ala
Geo. Orndorff, all you need is a dab at every internal rivet and enough to
get a little squeeze out at the exterior joints. I've still got a little left
of the initial half-quart supplied by Van's. Andy Johnson, longingly
regarding the fuselage kit box under the table. Soon, soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
dear listers
i'm confused about the magnitos on an o360 lycoming, i'm told i need 1 with
an impulse coupler, and 1 without. the engine i bought did not have mags on
it but i got 2 cores for trade in on slicks. how would i know which set to
get from air craft spruce, as there are many differant kinds
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jon's in Norway |
Eustace,
I don't want to rain on your parade but 28 C is 82.4 F. I would be delighted if
my cockpit temps were in that range :-) especially this time of year in Texas.
- Jim
RV-8AQ ( finish )
Austin, Texas
"Eustace Bowhay" on 06/07/2000 02:29:03 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Jon's in Norway
Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
call me with more details after he gets some rest.
As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
www.jonjohanson.on.net
I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it possible
to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
days.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Chris,
I did this, too. My fuel line goes up and over the rudder pedals and then
down to the gascolator on the firewall. I don't like the look of that rise
in the gas line and may relocate it. I would appreciate it if you post
off-line replies to the List.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A baffles
-----Original Message-----
For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
mechanical pump inlet? I want to run my fuel tube above the rudder
pedals. I can't see an inch or two causing cavitation at the pump, but
....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Bill . . . I, too, am building an 8 ("A" version) quick build. If you can
handle an Excel spreadsheet I'll send this separately which is a very
complete list of tools that I worked off of in setting up my shop. It may
be overkill, but it certainly has provided me with just about everything
I've needed. Contact me off line if you'd like it . . . rickjory(at)msn.com
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools...
>--> RV8-List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
>
>Hi guys,
>
>A little intro first...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.
It'll
>have all the goodies - all new stuff - 180 hp Lycoming, Hartzell c/s prop,
>moving map coupled to an S-Tec autopilot, etc. I'll be building it
>full-time in my 1200 sq. ft. shop in Tucson, AZ.
>
>I'm 48 years old and have had a lot of mechanical building experience, but
>no sheet metal. Which brings me to the subject. I need a good starter set
>of sheet metal tools. I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on
>his RV sets - no response. I also just received the Aircraft Spruce
'bible'
>and noticed their starter set.
>
>Any suggestions? I'm not pinching pennies and want a good quality set and
>one that is complete. I don't want to have to keep stopping and order
>another tool that wasn't included in the original set.
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>- Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Listers--
At Oshkosh 2-3 years ago, there was a vendor hawking a nifty little Head Up
Display unit for general aviation. It was rather impressive, but I wasn't in
the market at that time. I even picked up the literature, but have long since
disgarded it.
Does anyone know if that manufacturer is still around? Any leads on another
maker of a lightweight HUD? I scanned the Yeller Pages, but didn't see any
references to a HUD.
Thanks.
--Don McNamara
N8RV (fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Boyd,
I while back I spoke to Tom Hallendorf about the Super-6...said that he
wasn't planning on offering kits. He did say that a gentleman has the jig
for the engine mount and that he might sell me one...do you know anything
about this? If I had the engine mount I could figure out the rest. I'm
going to start on RV-6 #2 (maybe a Super-6, haven't decided yet) this summer
after #1 is flying...
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Broadwing IT Consulting
bob.japundza(at)broadwing.com
current client site: bjapundza(at)dowagro.com
current client phone: 317-337-5348
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Regarding List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
> >...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.....
> >...I need a good starter set of sheet metal tools.....
> >...I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on his RV sets - no
response.
> >
Hey, Bill. Welcome to your best project ever!
Before you order anything assess your building profile. Are you a
"workshop" guy, moving from project to project, buying all the tools along
the way? Or...are you a "build it to fly it" guy - do what's necessary to
complete the project then forget about the shop. I am the latter type.
Since I didn't win the lottery I have to make choices - I am building it
once and flying it until I'm too old. You can spend less then $30 thousand
(Rvator article) or more than $150 thousand on the plane not counting tools.
Know yourself!!!
Determine the kind of builder you are. You are building an -8 QB. Although
a lot is done you still have to do a little of everything for the 51% rule
(no shortcut on tools). I would start with the tools specified in the Avery
A-kit plus the B-kit. I bought 90% of these plus a few other things (I have
a spreadsheet of the order) from Avery due to the quality and the "volume
discount". I would feel comfortable with Avery, Cleveland, and probably
Brown. Limit your additional purchases until you complete the empenage when
you will have a really good understanding of plane building skills and other
tool needs. Fewer tools of high quality is a better policy than buying a
lot of junk. After you develop the skill (emp.) you will know what
additional tools you want - eg: bucking bars. Plan to think out your
requirements for shooting primer - booth, clothes, mask, ventilation, etc.
However, buy a good oil bath compressor with a cast iron motor - much less
noise. Unless you are a workshop guy you can save a lot by not getting a
heavey duty job for professional painting - I spent less than $350US. You
need a nice work bench and tool bench with average quality bench vise, drill
press, band saw and grinder. You need a good breaking type torque wrench
for the life of the airplane. I use a good recharger hand drill a lot - my
air drill very little.
BTW Avery is one of the best to deal with - by phone, letter, fax, web site
or email. Based on heresay and the RV-List the others seem to be fine.
Being a "build to fly" guy, I was willing to spend a minor premium to ensure
quality tools. I am starting the RV-9A wing - I have yet to see any need
for more tools - other than a bolt gauge.
Happy building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Calibrating Airspeed |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> It's been moved to:
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
> <http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html>
> go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from
> GPS runs
>
> Can someone else check that link? I'm getting an "Unrecognized response
> from the server."
Boyd.
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
>
> "Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > I cannot get this link to work. Is it correct?
> >
> > Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> >
> > > Recently there was a thread regarding the
> > > calculation of TAS from a
> > > series of GPS airspeed measurements. I made a
> > > comment that it was only
> > > necessary to fly three different legs to collect
> > > sufficient information
> > > to calculate TAS.
> > >
> > > I have put (.pdf format) a more detailed
> > > explanation on my newly
> > > created web page.
> > >
> > > http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
> > >
> > > Doug Gray>>>
> >
> It's been moved to:
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
> go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from
> GPS runs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
What is supposed to happen if the fuel line is not downhill all the way to
the gascolator?
1 -- With a downhill run, any water, being heavier than fuel, flows more
quickly to the gasco where it can be removed. (Impossible with RVs)
2 -- With an uphill run, any water, being heavier than fuel, remains in the
tank near the drain where it can be removed. (Not like Van's design!)
3 -- With an uphill and downhill run, any water, being heavier than fuel,
gets confused??? clogs the line??? WHAT - I need help understanding!!!
During preflight, drain the sumps. This gets any water that didn't make it
over the 'hill'. Drain the gasco getting water which did make it over the
'hill'. I suppose some water might be gathered in any interim low spots but
this would have to have come from the fuel that remained in that short
section of pipe since the last run of the engine.?
Mine (RV6a) runs up out of the tank, down near the floor, up to the fuel
valve, down to the floor, up to the firewall, down to the gasco, up to the
engine pump, down to the carb. Will it fly?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
> Go over and pick up that old rubber water hose that has been laying
> in the noon day sun and run the hot water that you would normally run
> out on the ground into a bucket.
Good advice.
> some elbow grease and a little patience and they will come right off.
Bad advice, IMHO, the elbow grease wears out the paint. Leading edges take
beating enough and you sure don't want to scrub on the acrylic windshield.
>Get up very early in the morning.(the dew is on the control surfaces then
>they wipe right off when they have been dew soaked
Get the dried on protoplasm soaked thru and put on something that digests it
but not the aluminum or paint. Surely auto stores must have such? Lye
(such as Easy Off oven cleaner) would work well and not harm paint (?) but
don't get it on the aluminum.
Doubtless some builders simply replace the skins.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ABAYMAN(at)aol.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003274908@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 11:16:42.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Tampa Area RV Builders |
MIKE
come on down, i have an rv6a in the finishing stage.
813-932-3995 office
813-871-9050 home
813-927-1651 cell
813-879-0020 fax
a-bay a/c & heating
206 n. armenia ave
tampa, fl. 33609
scott reviere
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
I should have mentioned that my breather line is mostly aluminum with a
short piece of hose at the top.
It has been suggested that heater hose might not be oil resistant. Quite
possible especially if the hose was intended for inside the car. Hoses do
seem to either soften or harden with time. If a straight, unformed hose is
used, there is the possibility it would collapse in any sharp bends.
Clearly the best would be aluminum tubing, bent to shape with a few inches
of straight oil resistant hose at the engine. Same goes for fuel pump drain
line.
hal
----- Original Message -----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Breather
>
> > Slip a length of regular automotive rubber radiator (heater)hose over
the
> > engine fitting and route it down to the exhaust ramp area or directly
over
>
> Sorry I didn't keep a record of the part number or what it fit but I went
> into an auto parts store and asked for a hose that fits this (socket) and
> bends 90 degrees. Nice formed hose resulted.
>
> A nicely formed piece of LIGHT WEIGHT fully formed aluminum tubing would
be
> a good product - Mr. Gretz???
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CW9371(at)aol.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003274970@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 11:19:21.-0700(at)matronics.com
In a message dated 6/7/2000 10:21:22 AM Central Daylight Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
<< Bob--
I wonder if there's something about the vibration frequency of a rivet
gun that affects peoples' minds so that they can't stop:)
For a while, and probably still is, Tom was pretty secretive about the
design as he didn't want a certain nameless person to be able to
"steal" his idea like they did with John Harmon (he's also big on
government conspiracies, esp. Bill Clinton's secret dope smuggling ring
in Arkansas). But, I'm reasonably
sure that he said he had or was going to have some engine mounts made
and set aside in case a future opportunity came along.
Do you still have his address/phone?
>>
Hmm, thats a pretty cheap shot at Team Rocket. Well then again it is a very
cheap shot at Mark Fredricks and Team Rocket.
You might want to check into your facts before you spout off about stuff you
don't know.
I looked at the RV 4 and the 8. Wanted something faster. I called Vans up
what can I do, any modifications or any faster planes coming out. THey said
nope. But I might be interested in a Harmon Rocket.
So I went out on the net, found Harmons phone number and a picture of Mark's
plane and his number.
I called up Harmon and spoke to him. Nice guy, sent me the info on the kit
and all that. However he was not interested in a quick build. He wanted to
stay the way he was. NOthing wrong with that, but at over 2000 hours to
build a harmon rocket I was not able to do that.
But Mark fredricks had a company that build parts for a harmon rocket so I
called him up. Very nice guy, In fact one of the nicest I have met in the
experimental field. He gave me some ideas and then he said wait a year. I
am looking at coming out with a quick build rocket. I was sold.
But you know john was the orginal designer so I called him back and asked if
he was going to do a quick build and once again he said no.
So I went back and talked to Mark alot. FInally he and team rocket announced
his kit. I went to Fun an Sun just to meet mark. I couldn't swing the cost
of the kit at first so I waited. Then I talked to Mark some more and he
invited me down to stayat his house and see how the kits were build and all
that. First time a company didn that! Then I got a call saying kit 000 was
avialiable and I bought it. I bought it because of Mark and I have abused
him in the building process so far since my kit is not quite the same as the
F1 rocket. Minor difference to be sure, but things are different, espcially
since my kit had been worked on by team rocket.
Mark had become a good friend though out this and I for one am not going to
let someone say he stole the design. The F1 rocket is different then the
Harmon rocket just as the harmon is different then the RV4. Mark took a
Harmon and improved it just like Harmon improved the RV4. So by your
thinking then Harmon also "stole" vans design of the RV4
I think people need to grow up a little. If John Harmon would have wanted to
build a quick build he would have. He didnt and therefore someone else
stepped into that void and did.
Thats the truth.
Chris Wilcox
Oshkosh, WI
F1 rocket Kit #000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Calibrating Airspeed |
I cannot get this link to work. Is it correct?
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
> Recently there was a thread regarding the
> calculation of TAS from a
> series of GPS airspeed measurements. I made a
> comment that it was only
> necessary to fly three different legs to collect
> sufficient information
> to calculate TAS.
>
> I have put (.pdf format) a more detailed
> explanation on my newly
> created web page.
>
> http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
>
> Doug Gray>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
>> Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
>> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.
There is a glass cleaning spray from Sam's club and elsewhere you can use
if you aren't close to water and want your bird to look good (OSH, for
example). Sprayway brand Glass Cleaner. (Very original name.)Comes in an
aerosol can for easy storage (won't leak) in the baggage compartment.
Spray, let it sit a few seconds, wipe off. I think there is a soapy residue
that should be hosed off every once in a while. But then your airplane
should be hosed off every once in a while anyway. It probably takes off the
wax you so laboriously put on. It is OK for plastics, which means it won't
hurt if some gets on your canopy, but I would not use it as a canopy cleaner.
>For those bugs that are really baked on, some people swear by Adolph's
meat tenderizer.
Gross.
>Hangar 16 Aviation-Formula products, Meguiar's Aircraft Maintenance
>products, Supercoat cleaner, Norstar Aircraft Cleaning products and Fast
>Wing products are all aviation approved.
Aviation approved means costs more. Sort of like 'For use on race cars' or
'Specifically formulated for fiberglass boats'.
>Do not use Fantastik, 409 or(sadly) Simple Green as they are corrosive to
aluminum.
Yeah, like Castrol Super Clean "the purple stuff". Something to stay away
from. I am looking into some of the readily available (cheap) cleaners and
their effect on aluminum and one of these days will report my findings. I
know Dow Basin, Tub And Tile Cleaner With Scrubbing Bubbles (who thinks of
this stuff) works pretty well but I don't know what it does to aluminum.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
call me with more details after he gets some rest.
As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
www.jonjohanson.on.net
I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it possible
to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
days.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Scott,
Contact Unisyn through the Internet (sorry, don't have address handy), give
them your make and model number and they will tell you exactly which model
magneto to get.
Mike Robertson
Wings ON!!
>From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: magnitos
>Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 16:41:03 EDT
>
>
>dear listers
>i'm confused about the magnitos on an o360 lycoming, i'm told i need 1 with
>an impulse coupler, and 1 without. the engine i bought did not have mags
>on
>it but i got 2 cores for trade in on slicks. how would i know which set to
>get from air craft spruce, as there are many differant kinds
>scott
>tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Talk to Mattituck, They have a deal on new Slicks with harness
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnitos
>
> dear listers
> i'm confused about the magnitos on an o360 lycoming, i'm told i need 1
with
> an impulse coupler, and 1 without. the engine i bought did not have mags
on
> it but i got 2 cores for trade in on slicks. how would i know which set to
> get from air craft spruce, as there are many differant kinds
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003279121@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 14:36:13.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Jon's in Norway |
Eustace,
I don't want to rain on your parade but 28 C is 82.4 F. I would be delighted if
my cockpit temps were in that range :-) especially this time of year in Texas.
- Jim
RV-8AQ ( finish )
Austin, Texas
"Eustace Bowhay" on 06/07/2000 02:29:03 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Jon's in Norway
Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
call me with more details after he gets some rest.
As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
www.jonjohanson.on.net
I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it possible
to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
days.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Chris,
I did this, too. My fuel line goes up and over the rudder pedals and then
down to the gascolator on the firewall. I don't like the look of that rise
in the gas line and may relocate it. I would appreciate it if you post
off-line replies to the List.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A baffles
-----Original Message-----
For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
mechanical pump inlet? I want to run my fuel tube above the rudder
pedals. I can't see an inch or two causing cavitation at the pump, but
....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Boyd,
I while back I spoke to Tom Hallendorf about the Super-6...said that he
wasn't planning on offering kits. He did say that a gentleman has the jig
for the engine mount and that he might sell me one...do you know anything
about this? If I had the engine mount I could figure out the rest. I'm
going to start on RV-6 #2 (maybe a Super-6, haven't decided yet) this summer
after #1 is flying...
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Broadwing IT Consulting
bob.japundza(at)broadwing.com
current client site: bjapundza(at)dowagro.com
current client phone: 317-337-5348
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Listers--
At Oshkosh 2-3 years ago, there was a vendor hawking a nifty little Head Up
Display unit for general aviation. It was rather impressive, but I wasn't in
the market at that time. I even picked up the literature, but have long since
disgarded it.
Does anyone know if that manufacturer is still around? Any leads on another
maker of a lightweight HUD? I scanned the Yeller Pages, but didn't see any
references to a HUD.
Thanks.
--Don McNamara
N8RV (fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Regarding List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
> >...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.....
> >...I need a good starter set of sheet metal tools.....
> >...I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on his RV sets - no
response.
> >
Hey, Bill. Welcome to your best project ever!
Before you order anything assess your building profile. Are you a
"workshop" guy, moving from project to project, buying all the tools along
the way? Or...are you a "build it to fly it" guy - do what's necessary to
complete the project then forget about the shop. I am the latter type.
Since I didn't win the lottery I have to make choices - I am building it
once and flying it until I'm too old. You can spend less then $30 thousand
(Rvator article) or more than $150 thousand on the plane not counting tools.
Know yourself!!!
Determine the kind of builder you are. You are building an -8 QB. Although
a lot is done you still have to do a little of everything for the 51% rule
(no shortcut on tools). I would start with the tools specified in the Avery
A-kit plus the B-kit. I bought 90% of these plus a few other things (I have
a spreadsheet of the order) from Avery due to the quality and the "volume
discount". I would feel comfortable with Avery, Cleveland, and probably
Brown. Limit your additional purchases until you complete the empenage when
you will have a really good understanding of plane building skills and other
tool needs. Fewer tools of high quality is a better policy than buying a
lot of junk. After you develop the skill (emp.) you will know what
additional tools you want - eg: bucking bars. Plan to think out your
requirements for shooting primer - booth, clothes, mask, ventilation, etc.
However, buy a good oil bath compressor with a cast iron motor - much less
noise. Unless you are a workshop guy you can save a lot by not getting a
heavey duty job for professional painting - I spent less than $350US. You
need a nice work bench and tool bench with average quality bench vise, drill
press, band saw and grinder. You need a good breaking type torque wrench
for the life of the airplane. I use a good recharger hand drill a lot - my
air drill very little.
BTW Avery is one of the best to deal with - by phone, letter, fax, web site
or email. Based on heresay and the RV-List the others seem to be fine.
Being a "build to fly" guy, I was willing to spend a minor premium to ensure
quality tools. I am starting the RV-9A wing - I have yet to see any need
for more tools - other than a bolt gauge.
Happy building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Calibrating Airspeed |
It's been moved to:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
<http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html>
go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from
GPS runs
Can someone else check that link? I'm getting an "Unrecognized response
from the server."
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP
[mailto:bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 11:49 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Calibrating Airspeed
vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with ESMTP
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> I cannot get this link to work. Is it correct?
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
>
> > Recently there was a thread regarding the
> > calculation of TAS from a
> > series of GPS airspeed measurements. I made a
> > comment that it was only
> > necessary to fly three different legs to collect
> > sufficient information
> > to calculate TAS.
> >
> > I have put (.pdf format) a more detailed
> > explanation on my newly
> > created web page.
> >
> > http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
> >
> > Doug Gray>>>
>
It's been moved to:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from
GPS runs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ABAYMAN(at)aol.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003280584@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 15:01:16.-0700(at)matronics.com
dear listers
i'm confused about the magnitos on an o360 lycoming, i'm told i need 1 with
an impulse coupler, and 1 without. the engine i bought did not have mags on
it but i got 2 cores for trade in on slicks. how would i know which set to
get from air craft spruce, as there are many differant kinds
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
>> Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
>> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.
There is a glass cleaning spray from Sam's club and elsewhere you can use
if you aren't close to water and want your bird to look good (OSH, for
example). Sprayway brand Glass Cleaner. (Very original name.)Comes in an
aerosol can for easy storage (won't leak) in the baggage compartment.
Spray, let it sit a few seconds, wipe off. I think there is a soapy residue
that should be hosed off every once in a while. But then your airplane
should be hosed off every once in a while anyway. It probably takes off the
wax you so laboriously put on. It is OK for plastics, which means it won't
hurt if some gets on your canopy, but I would not use it as a canopy cleaner.
>For those bugs that are really baked on, some people swear by Adolph's
meat tenderizer.
Gross.
>Hangar 16 Aviation-Formula products, Meguiar's Aircraft Maintenance
>products, Supercoat cleaner, Norstar Aircraft Cleaning products and Fast
>Wing products are all aviation approved.
Aviation approved means costs more. Sort of like 'For use on race cars' or
'Specifically formulated for fiberglass boats'.
>Do not use Fantastik, 409 or(sadly) Simple Green as they are corrosive to
aluminum.
Yeah, like Castrol Super Clean "the purple stuff". Something to stay away
from. I am looking into some of the readily available (cheap) cleaners and
their effect on aluminum and one of these days will report my findings. I
know Dow Basin, Tub And Tile Cleaner With Scrubbing Bubbles (who thinks of
this stuff) works pretty well but I don't know what it does to aluminum.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003280481@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 14:58:44.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Dies |
Craig, Ihave just finished the second (right) tank without using the tank
dies. On the left tank I did use them and had a lot of slightly tipped
rivets, due in my opinion from the looser fit of the rivet in the larger
dimple. On the second tank I had no tipped rivets at all in spite of doing it
alone. (My building partner was available on No.1.) The tank dies are
sometimes useful for dimpling the bottom piece, such as ribs, especially
under 0.032" skin material due to the larger dia. of the dimple on the bottom
of the skin and where you have to use countersunk pop-rivets. Personally I
would not use them on the tanks as the proseal is slippery stuff and allows
things to move around much more than normally. It is possible that the
proseal variety supplied by Van's now is less viscous than earlier versions,
requiring less space. I spent about 10 hours in 80+ degree heat putting the
right tank together without any difficulties due to stiffening of the
proseal. Maybe the stuff is just less viscous at 80 deg. Another tip when you
rivet the tanks: Be sure to wipe off the tail of the rivet befor you buck.
This will provide for better control and fewer clinched and tipped rivets.
Do this when back riveting too. Also, don't use huge amounts of proseal ala
Geo. Orndorff, all you need is a dab at every internal rivet and enough to
get a little squeeze out at the exterior joints. I've still got a little left
of the initial half-quart supplied by Van's. Andy Johnson, longingly
regarding the fuselage kit box under the table. Soon, soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
call me with more details after he gets some rest.
As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
www.jonjohanson.on.net
I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it possible
to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
days.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
What is supposed to happen if the fuel line is not downhill all the way to
the gascolator?
1 -- With a downhill run, any water, being heavier than fuel, flows more
quickly to the gasco where it can be removed. (Impossible with RVs)
2 -- With an uphill run, any water, being heavier than fuel, remains in the
tank near the drain where it can be removed. (Not like Van's design!)
3 -- With an uphill and downhill run, any water, being heavier than fuel,
gets confused??? clogs the line??? WHAT - I need help understanding!!!
During preflight, drain the sumps. This gets any water that didn't make it
over the 'hill'. Drain the gasco getting water which did make it over the
'hill'. I suppose some water might be gathered in any interim low spots but
this would have to have come from the fuel that remained in that short
section of pipe since the last run of the engine.?
Mine (RV6a) runs up out of the tank, down near the floor, up to the fuel
valve, down to the floor, up to the firewall, down to the gasco, up to the
engine pump, down to the carb. Will it fly?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon's in Norway |
Sorry forgot to put the minus in front of the 28 C. Have just got used to
it being minus over the years.
Eustace
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Date: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jon's in Norway
>
>
>Eustace,
>
>I don't want to rain on your parade but 28 C is 82.4 F. I would be
delighted if
>my cockpit temps were in that range :-) especially this time of year in
Texas.
>
>- Jim
>RV-8AQ ( finish )
>Austin, Texas
>
>
>"Eustace Bowhay" on 06/07/2000 02:29:03 PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: "rv list"
>Subject: RV-List: Jon's in Norway
>
>
>Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
>Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
>
>Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
>call me with more details after he gets some rest.
>
>As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
>talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
>www.jonjohanson.on.net
>
>I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it
possible
>to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
>days.
>
>Eustace Bowhay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
>For a while, and probably still is, Tom was pretty secretive about the
>design as he didn't want a certain nameless person to be able to
>"steal" his idea like they did with John Harmon (he's also big on
>government conspiracies, esp. Bill Clinton's secret dope smuggling ring
>
>Boyd.
Boyd,
Its a shame you felt you had to poke that unnecessary jab at Mark
Frederick. You may not like the fact that Mark is selling a quickbuild
version of the Rocket but he obviously is offering something that there is
a demand for and which was otherwise unavailable. If Tom Hallendorf wants
to market his Super 6 he should go ahead and do so. If not, and if there is
sufficient demand he shouldnt be surprised if someone else markets
something similar. Clearly Mark has the necessary skills to do so without
"stealing" Hallendorf's design (take a look at Bruce Bohannon's airplane -
who did Mark steal that from?).
When Mark was on this list I found him to be the most helpful guy here.
He probably has built more RVs (and derivatives) than anyone on this list
and is always willing to give a hand. Crap like this drove him off of the
list and we are all the worse for it. Anytime I get stuck on my project and
need some guidance I continue to shoot Mark my email questions direct and
always get helpful answers back. This in spite of the fact that he no
longer subscribes to the list and I am not an F1 Rocket builder.
Mike Wills
RV-4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cleaning airplanes was:Cleaning Off Bugs |
>
>
> >> Does anyone have or know of a good method of
> removing smashed bugs from
> >> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.
DRI WASH 'n GUARD
http://www.enviro-tech.com/html/dwg.html
$38.95 per quart is the most expensive cleaner I have
used but one quart will last an entire year. This was
the only product that I used over a 12 month peroid on
my RV-6. It also is good on the plexiglass. The only
down side on the plexi is that it does generate a
little bit of static. It also is pricey. Love the
product but do not like the price.
I have tried several others including "Protect-all".
http://www.protectall.com/planes.htm (bought mine at
Wal-Mart) It is ok but it is more work and did not
shine as nice.
After 2.5 years of not washing the airplane, I still
think that the Dri Wash 'n Guard is the best. YES. I
have not washed the airplane with a hose and bucket
since it was painted. 560+ flying hours.
If anyone has any other aiplane cleaners (other than
Pledge) that they like, let me know on or off the
list.
Just like the other posts, clean the bugs off when you
put the airplane away if you know you will not have
dew on it in the morning.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
SMTP id ; Wed", 07, Jun, 2000, 15:01:16.-0700(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
>
> dear listers
> i'm confused about the magnitos on an o360 lycoming, i'm told i need 1 with
> an impulse coupler, and 1 without. the engine i bought did not have mags on
> it but i got 2 cores for trade in on slicks. how would i know which set to
> get from air craft spruce, as there are many differant kinds
> scott
> tampa
>
>
Scott--
I don't have an 0-360, but the way I read the chart you need SLICK
magnetos# 4370 and 4371(with impulse) plus the associated harness and
sparkplug connectors. Call ACS and they can walk you thru this. The
impulse mag(usually the LT) is used for starting as it has a spring
loaded coupler to advance the spark at low rpm and prevent the fixed
20-25 degree timing from firing the engine backwards.
Boyd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Scott,
Contact Unisyn through the Internet (sorry, don't have address handy), give
them your make and model number and they will tell you exactly which model
magneto to get.
Mike Robertson
Wings ON!!
>From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: magnitos
>Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 16:41:03 EDT
>
>
>dear listers
>i'm confused about the magnitos on an o360 lycoming, i'm told i need 1 with
>an impulse coupler, and 1 without. the engine i bought did not have mags
>on
>it but i got 2 cores for trade in on slicks. how would i know which set to
>get from air craft spruce, as there are many differant kinds
>scott
>tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CW9371(at)aol.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003274970@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 11:19:21.-0700(at)matronics.com
In a message dated 6/7/2000 10:21:22 AM Central Daylight Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP writes:
<< Bob--
I wonder if there's something about the vibration frequency of a rivet
gun that affects peoples' minds so that they can't stop:)
For a while, and probably still is, Tom was pretty secretive about the
design as he didn't want a certain nameless person to be able to
"steal" his idea like they did with John Harmon (he's also big on
government conspiracies, esp. Bill Clinton's secret dope smuggling ring
in Arkansas). But, I'm reasonably
sure that he said he had or was going to have some engine mounts made
and set aside in case a future opportunity came along.
Do you still have his address/phone?
>>
Hmm, thats a pretty cheap shot at Team Rocket. Well then again it is a very
cheap shot at Mark Fredricks and Team Rocket.
You might want to check into your facts before you spout off about stuff you
don't know.
I looked at the RV 4 and the 8. Wanted something faster. I called Vans up
what can I do, any modifications or any faster planes coming out. THey said
nope. But I might be interested in a Harmon Rocket.
So I went out on the net, found Harmons phone number and a picture of Mark's
plane and his number.
I called up Harmon and spoke to him. Nice guy, sent me the info on the kit
and all that. However he was not interested in a quick build. He wanted to
stay the way he was. NOthing wrong with that, but at over 2000 hours to
build a harmon rocket I was not able to do that.
But Mark fredricks had a company that build parts for a harmon rocket so I
called him up. Very nice guy, In fact one of the nicest I have met in the
experimental field. He gave me some ideas and then he said wait a year. I
am looking at coming out with a quick build rocket. I was sold.
But you know john was the orginal designer so I called him back and asked if
he was going to do a quick build and once again he said no.
So I went back and talked to Mark alot. FInally he and team rocket announced
his kit. I went to Fun an Sun just to meet mark. I couldn't swing the cost
of the kit at first so I waited. Then I talked to Mark some more and he
invited me down to stayat his house and see how the kits were build and all
that. First time a company didn that! Then I got a call saying kit 000 was
avialiable and I bought it. I bought it because of Mark and I have abused
him in the building process so far since my kit is not quite the same as the
F1 rocket. Minor difference to be sure, but things are different, espcially
since my kit had been worked on by team rocket.
Mark had become a good friend though out this and I for one am not going to
let someone say he stole the design. The F1 rocket is different then the
Harmon rocket just as the harmon is different then the RV4. Mark took a
Harmon and improved it just like Harmon improved the RV4. So by your
thinking then Harmon also "stole" vans design of the RV4
I think people need to grow up a little. If John Harmon would have wanted to
build a quick build he would have. He didnt and therefore someone else
stepped into that void and did.
Thats the truth.
Chris Wilcox
Oshkosh, WI
F1 rocket Kit #000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003279121@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 14:36:13.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Jon's in Norway |
Eustace,
I don't want to rain on your parade but 28 C is 82.4 F. I would be delighted if
my cockpit temps were in that range :-) especially this time of year in Texas.
- Jim
RV-8AQ ( finish )
Austin, Texas
"Eustace Bowhay" on 06/07/2000 02:29:03 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Jon's in Norway
Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
call me with more details after he gets some rest.
As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
www.jonjohanson.on.net
I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it possible
to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
days.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003280481@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 14:58:44.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Tank Dimple Dies |
Craig, Ihave just finished the second (right) tank without using the tank
dies. On the left tank I did use them and had a lot of slightly tipped
rivets, due in my opinion from the looser fit of the rivet in the larger
dimple. On the second tank I had no tipped rivets at all in spite of doing it
alone. (My building partner was available on No.1.) The tank dies are
sometimes useful for dimpling the bottom piece, such as ribs, especially
under 0.032" skin material due to the larger dia. of the dimple on the bottom
of the skin and where you have to use countersunk pop-rivets. Personally I
would not use them on the tanks as the proseal is slippery stuff and allows
things to move around much more than normally. It is possible that the
proseal variety supplied by Van's now is less viscous than earlier versions,
requiring less space. I spent about 10 hours in 80+ degree heat putting the
right tank together without any difficulties due to stiffening of the
proseal. Maybe the stuff is just less viscous at 80 deg. Another tip when you
rivet the tanks: Be sure to wipe off the tail of the rivet befor you buck.
This will provide for better control and fewer clinched and tipped rivets.
Do this when back riveting too. Also, don't use huge amounts of proseal ala
Geo. Orndorff, all you need is a dab at every internal rivet and enough to
get a little squeeze out at the exterior joints. I've still got a little left
of the initial half-quart supplied by Van's. Andy Johnson, longingly
regarding the fuselage kit box under the table. Soon, soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Chris,
I did this, too. My fuel line goes up and over the rudder pedals and then
down to the gascolator on the firewall. I don't like the look of that rise
in the gas line and may relocate it. I would appreciate it if you post
off-line replies to the List.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A baffles
-----Original Message-----
For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
mechanical pump inlet? I want to run my fuel tube above the rudder
pedals. I can't see an inch or two causing cavitation at the pump, but
....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
That's much cooler than what I thought. I had hoped to fly my RV-6 here in
Canada year around. I often rent a 172 and have no problems with outside
temps to -30c (-22F). The cockpit still stays fairly warm. Any reason this
can't be done in the RV's? OR maybe Jon never bothered with heat in his RV4.
In fact, my favorite time of the year to fly is on a freezing cold day with
blue skies - it feels like flying through liquid!
Are
RV-6 empennage kit - rudder 2 (the arbor slipped - twice!!!. I'm now using
the spring that Avery supplied.)
C-GQRV (reserved)
Eustace wrote:
Sorry forgot to put the minus in front of the 28 C. Have just got used to
it being minus over the years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
Don McNamara wrote:
>
>
> Listers--
>
> At Oshkosh 2-3 years ago, there was a vendor hawking a nifty little Head Up
> Display unit for general aviation. It was rather impressive, but I wasn't in
> the market at that time. I even picked up the literature, but have long since
> disgarded it.
>
> Does anyone know if that manufacturer is still around? Any leads on another
> maker of a lightweight HUD? I scanned the Yeller Pages, but didn't see any
> references to a HUD.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --Don McNamara
> N8RV (fuse)
>
Don,
There's a HUD in my Panel Planner equipment database from a company called
Heads-Up Display Systems, Inc. There's no information about where they're
located. As a last resort, if nobody else knows anything, you might contact
Gordon Pratt, since he is the one who created Panel Planner. As you probably
know, Gordon is now one of the principals in Sierra Flight Systems.
Good luck, and if you find out anything, please let the rest of us know.
George True
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
>For a while, and probably still is, Tom was pretty secretive about the
>design as he didn't want a certain nameless person to be able to
>"steal" his idea like they did with John Harmon (he's also big on
>government conspiracies, esp. Bill Clinton's secret dope smuggling ring
>
>Boyd.
Boyd,
Its a shame you felt you had to poke that unnecessary jab at Mark
Frederick. You may not like the fact that Mark is selling a quickbuild
version of the Rocket but he obviously is offering something that there is
a demand for and which was otherwise unavailable. If Tom Hallendorf wants
to market his Super 6 he should go ahead and do so. If not, and if there is
sufficient demand he shouldnt be surprised if someone else markets
something similar. Clearly Mark has the necessary skills to do so without
"stealing" Hallendorf's design (take a look at Bruce Bohannon's airplane -
who did Mark steal that from?).
When Mark was on this list I found him to be the most helpful guy here.
He probably has built more RVs (and derivatives) than anyone on this list
and is always willing to give a hand. Crap like this drove him off of the
list and we are all the worse for it. Anytime I get stuck on my project and
need some guidance I continue to shoot Mark my email questions direct and
always get helpful answers back. This in spite of the fact that he no
longer subscribes to the list and I am not an F1 Rocket builder.
Mike Wills
RV-4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Ideas to consider regarding the RV6 fuel system.
I have modified the fuel system on my "6" tail dragger so that the fuel valve
is mounted almost vertically on a bracket just above the seat.
The electric pump is mounted directly forward of the fuel valve on a bracket
above the battery box.
There is a large capacity, clear, in line, fuel filter mounted horizontally
between the valve and pump.
This allows you to check for contamination while flying as well as during your
preflight.
The fuel line then goes thru the firewall with an angled bulkhead fitting.
A 16" long, fire sleeved, stainless braided, teflon fuel hose connects directly
to the engine driven pump.
This gives you a fuel system that has less bends and a continuous uphill grade
from the fuel tanks to the carb. There is no gascolator as the fuel tank drains
are the lowest point in the system.
It is similar to what I have used on other homebuilts. If you do get water in
your fuel and forget to drain the tanks the water will show in the fuel filter.
I've talked with many "6" owners and a lot of them say that they no longer
check their gascolators.
If you wish to put a gascolator in do so. It's your airplane you get to build
it the way you want.
Garry RV6 Finishing it, the way I want.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Lister's,
I too have sought the advise of Mark Frederick.
The guy is a class act.
I bought my Hooker Harness & Aero Flash units from him, the best price.
Mark Steffensen
Dallas, 8A final assembly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: super-6
>
>
>
> >For a while, and probably still is, Tom was pretty secretive about the
> >design as he didn't want a certain nameless person to be able to
> >"steal" his idea like they did with John Harmon (he's also big on
> >government conspiracies, esp. Bill Clinton's secret dope smuggling ring
> >
> >Boyd.
>
> Boyd,
>
> Its a shame you felt you had to poke that unnecessary jab at Mark
> Frederick. You may not like the fact that Mark is selling a quickbuild
> version of the Rocket but he obviously is offering something that there is
> a demand for and which was otherwise unavailable. If Tom Hallendorf wants
> to market his Super 6 he should go ahead and do so. If not, and if there
is
> sufficient demand he shouldnt be surprised if someone else markets
> something similar. Clearly Mark has the necessary skills to do so without
> "stealing" Hallendorf's design (take a look at Bruce Bohannon's airplane -
> who did Mark steal that from?).
>
> When Mark was on this list I found him to be the most helpful guy here.
> He probably has built more RVs (and derivatives) than anyone on this list
> and is always willing to give a hand. Crap like this drove him off of the
> list and we are all the worse for it. Anytime I get stuck on my project
and
> need some guidance I continue to shoot Mark my email questions direct and
> always get helpful answers back. This in spite of the fact that he no
> longer subscribes to the list and I am not an F1 Rocket builder.
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
> willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
What is supposed to happen if the fuel line is not downhill all the way to
the gascolator?
1 -- With a downhill run, any water, being heavier than fuel, flows more
quickly to the gasco where it can be removed. (Impossible with RVs)
2 -- With an uphill run, any water, being heavier than fuel, remains in the
tank near the drain where it can be removed. (Not like Van's design!)
3 -- With an uphill and downhill run, any water, being heavier than fuel,
gets confused??? clogs the line??? WHAT - I need help understanding!!!
During preflight, drain the sumps. This gets any water that didn't make it
over the 'hill'. Drain the gasco getting water which did make it over the
'hill'. I suppose some water might be gathered in any interim low spots but
this would have to have come from the fuel that remained in that short
section of pipe since the last run of the engine.?
Mine (RV6a) runs up out of the tank, down near the floor, up to the fuel
valve, down to the floor, up to the firewall, down to the gasco, up to the
engine pump, down to the carb. Will it fly?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
Listers--
At Oshkosh 2-3 years ago, there was a vendor hawking a nifty little Head Up
Display unit for general aviation. It was rather impressive, but I wasn't in
the market at that time. I even picked up the literature, but have long since
disgarded it.
Does anyone know if that manufacturer is still around? Any leads on another
maker of a lightweight HUD? I scanned the Yeller Pages, but didn't see any
references to a HUD.
Thanks.
--Don McNamara
N8RV (fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Talk to Mattituck, They have a deal on new Slicks with harness
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnitos
>
> dear listers
> i'm confused about the magnitos on an o360 lycoming, i'm told i need 1
with
> an impulse coupler, and 1 without. the engine i bought did not have mags
on
> it but i got 2 cores for trade in on slicks. how would i know which set to
> get from air craft spruce, as there are many differant kinds
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ABAYMAN(at)aol.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003280584@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
07 Jun 2000 15:01:16.-0700(at)matronics.com
dear listers
i'm confused about the magnitos on an o360 lycoming, i'm told i need 1 with
an impulse coupler, and 1 without. the engine i bought did not have mags on
it but i got 2 cores for trade in on slicks. how would i know which set to
get from air craft spruce, as there are many differant kinds
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
call me with more details after he gets some rest.
As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
www.jonjohanson.on.net
I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it possible
to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
days.
Eustace Bowhay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Boyd,
I while back I spoke to Tom Hallendorf about the Super-6...said that he
wasn't planning on offering kits. He did say that a gentleman has the jig
for the engine mount and that he might sell me one...do you know anything
about this? If I had the engine mount I could figure out the rest. I'm
going to start on RV-6 #2 (maybe a Super-6, haven't decided yet) this summer
after #1 is flying...
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
Broadwing IT Consulting
bob.japundza(at)broadwing.com
current client site: bjapundza(at)dowagro.com
current client phone: 317-337-5348
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
>> Does anyone have or know of a good method of removing smashed bugs from
>> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.
There is a glass cleaning spray from Sam's club and elsewhere you can use
if you aren't close to water and want your bird to look good (OSH, for
example). Sprayway brand Glass Cleaner. (Very original name.)Comes in an
aerosol can for easy storage (won't leak) in the baggage compartment.
Spray, let it sit a few seconds, wipe off. I think there is a soapy residue
that should be hosed off every once in a while. But then your airplane
should be hosed off every once in a while anyway. It probably takes off the
wax you so laboriously put on. It is OK for plastics, which means it won't
hurt if some gets on your canopy, but I would not use it as a canopy cleaner.
>For those bugs that are really baked on, some people swear by Adolph's
meat tenderizer.
Gross.
>Hangar 16 Aviation-Formula products, Meguiar's Aircraft Maintenance
>products, Supercoat cleaner, Norstar Aircraft Cleaning products and Fast
>Wing products are all aviation approved.
Aviation approved means costs more. Sort of like 'For use on race cars' or
'Specifically formulated for fiberglass boats'.
>Do not use Fantastik, 409 or(sadly) Simple Green as they are corrosive to
aluminum.
Yeah, like Castrol Super Clean "the purple stuff". Something to stay away
from. I am looking into some of the readily available (cheap) cleaners and
their effect on aluminum and one of these days will report my findings. I
know Dow Basin, Tub And Tile Cleaner With Scrubbing Bubbles (who thinks of
this stuff) works pretty well but I don't know what it does to aluminum.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon's in Norway |
Sorry forgot to put the minus in front of the 28 C. Have just got used to
it being minus over the years.
Eustace
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Date: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jon's in Norway
>
>
>Eustace,
>
>I don't want to rain on your parade but 28 C is 82.4 F. I would be
delighted if
>my cockpit temps were in that range :-) especially this time of year in
Texas.
>
>- Jim
>RV-8AQ ( finish )
>Austin, Texas
>
>
>"Eustace Bowhay" on 06/07/2000 02:29:03 PM
>
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>To: "rv list"
>Subject: RV-List: Jon's in Norway
>
>
>Just talked to Jon and he has arrived in Tromso Norway. He had to land in
>Spitzbergen for fuel, this added 2 hours to the flight.
>
>Temperatures in the cockpit got as low as 28 C. He is going to bed and will
>call me with more details after he gets some rest.
>
>As Jon now has the big one behind him I will make one more post after
>talking to him and then we can all go back to his web sight.
>www.jonjohanson.on.net
>
>I would like to thank Matt for the use of the RV-list which made it
possible
>to keep all of us RVer's informed while Jon was out of touch the last three
>days.
>
>Eustace Bowhay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: New RV-8 builder needs tools... |
Regarding List message posted by: "Bill Ludwig"
> >...I'm going to be building the RV-8 quick build.....
> >...I need a good starter set of sheet metal tools.....
> >...I've sent an e-mail to Avery asking for details on his RV sets - no
response.
> >
Hey, Bill. Welcome to your best project ever!
Before you order anything assess your building profile. Are you a
"workshop" guy, moving from project to project, buying all the tools along
the way? Or...are you a "build it to fly it" guy - do what's necessary to
complete the project then forget about the shop. I am the latter type.
Since I didn't win the lottery I have to make choices - I am building it
once and flying it until I'm too old. You can spend less then $30 thousand
(Rvator article) or more than $150 thousand on the plane not counting tools.
Know yourself!!!
Determine the kind of builder you are. You are building an -8 QB. Although
a lot is done you still have to do a little of everything for the 51% rule
(no shortcut on tools). I would start with the tools specified in the Avery
A-kit plus the B-kit. I bought 90% of these plus a few other things (I have
a spreadsheet of the order) from Avery due to the quality and the "volume
discount". I would feel comfortable with Avery, Cleveland, and probably
Brown. Limit your additional purchases until you complete the empenage when
you will have a really good understanding of plane building skills and other
tool needs. Fewer tools of high quality is a better policy than buying a
lot of junk. After you develop the skill (emp.) you will know what
additional tools you want - eg: bucking bars. Plan to think out your
requirements for shooting primer - booth, clothes, mask, ventilation, etc.
However, buy a good oil bath compressor with a cast iron motor - much less
noise. Unless you are a workshop guy you can save a lot by not getting a
heavey duty job for professional painting - I spent less than $350US. You
need a nice work bench and tool bench with average quality bench vise, drill
press, band saw and grinder. You need a good breaking type torque wrench
for the life of the airplane. I use a good recharger hand drill a lot - my
air drill very little.
BTW Avery is one of the best to deal with - by phone, letter, fax, web site
or email. Based on heresay and the RV-List the others seem to be fine.
Being a "build to fly" guy, I was willing to spend a minor premium to ensure
quality tools. I am starting the RV-9A wing - I have yet to see any need
for more tools - other than a bolt gauge.
Happy building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Calibrating Airspeed |
It's been moved to:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
<http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html>
go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from
GPS runs
Can someone else check that link? I'm getting an "Unrecognized response
from the server."
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP
[mailto:bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 11:49 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Calibrating Airspeed
vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with ESMTP
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
>
> I cannot get this link to work. Is it correct?
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
>
> > Recently there was a thread regarding the
> > calculation of TAS from a
> > series of GPS airspeed measurements. I made a
> > comment that it was only
> > necessary to fly three different legs to collect
> > sufficient information
> > to calculate TAS.
> >
> > I have put (.pdf format) a more detailed
> > explanation on my newly
> > created web page.
> >
> > http://www.hlos.com.au/~doug.gray/home.html
> >
> > Doug Gray>>>
>
It's been moved to:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
go to: RV Links then down the page (way down) to: TAS from
GPS runs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cleaning airplanes was:Cleaning Off Bugs |
>
>
> >> Does anyone have or know of a good method of
> removing smashed bugs from
> >> leading edges of wings,tail surfaces, etc.
DRI WASH 'n GUARD
http://www.enviro-tech.com/html/dwg.html
$38.95 per quart is the most expensive cleaner I have
used but one quart will last an entire year. This was
the only product that I used over a 12 month peroid on
my RV-6. It also is good on the plexiglass. The only
down side on the plexi is that it does generate a
little bit of static. It also is pricey. Love the
product but do not like the price.
I have tried several others including "Protect-all".
http://www.protectall.com/planes.htm (bought mine at
Wal-Mart) It is ok but it is more work and did not
shine as nice.
After 2.5 years of not washing the airplane, I still
think that the Dri Wash 'n Guard is the best. YES. I
have not washed the airplane with a hose and bucket
since it was painted. 560+ flying hours.
If anyone has any other aiplane cleaners (other than
Pledge) that they like, let me know on or off the
list.
Just like the other posts, clean the bugs off when you
put the airplane away if you know you will not have
dew on it in the morning.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Winters" <dtw50(at)freewwweb.com> |
| Subject: | MAC Servo Mounting Hardware |
I am trying to mount the MAC servo in my RV-6 empenage. The plans say to
use the supplied hardware, and I just discovered that there is none in the
box. What are you folks using to attach the servo to the 2 aluminum
brackets that mount to the cover plate? Can I use a couple of #8, grade 8
cap screws and some nylock nuts? The mounting holes are *very* close to the
formed flanges on the aluminum brackets. In my opinion, they are too close.
Do you guys have any suggestions?
Don Winters
RV-6
Empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MAC Servo Mounting Hardware |
Don,
I don't know how much help this is but my -8A Mac Servo kit from Van's came
with the same hardware you described. the holes were/are close but the
small hardware fit ok.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Wings ON!!!
>From: "D. Winters" <dtw50(at)freewwweb.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com"
>Subject: RV-List: MAC Servo Mounting Hardware
>Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 18:25:34 -0500
>
>
>I am trying to mount the MAC servo in my RV-6 empenage. The plans say to
>use the supplied hardware, and I just discovered that there is none in the
>box. What are you folks using to attach the servo to the 2 aluminum
>brackets that mount to the cover plate? Can I use a couple of #8, grade 8
>cap screws and some nylock nuts? The mounting holes are *very* close to
>the
>formed flanges on the aluminum brackets. In my opinion, they are too
>close.
>Do you guys have any suggestions?
>
>Don Winters
>RV-6
>Empenage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Mark Steffensen wrote:
>
>
> Lister's,
>
> I too have sought the advise of Mark Frederick.
>
> The guy is a class act.
>
To bad you have not talked to the people that don't
like him or think he is a class act.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hmm, thats a pretty cheap shot at Team Rocket. Well then again it is a very
> cheap shot at Mark Fredricks and Team Rocket.
> You might want to check into your facts before you spout off about stuff you
> don't know.
****snip***
> Mark had become a good friend though out this and I for one am not going to
> let someone say he stole the design. The F1 rocket is different then the
> Harmon rocket just as the harmon is different then the RV4. Mark took a
> Harmon and improved it just like Harmon improved the RV4. So by your
> thinking then Harmon also "stole" vans design of the RV4
>
> F1 rocket Kit #000
The difference is John is not trying to pass his Rocket off as a RV-4
where MF is trying to pass a Rocket II as a Team Rocket. For instance
his own airplane is a HR II which is advertised as a Team Rocket.
Just to keep the facts straight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Crawford <gacmech(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight RV8, N426NC, s/n 80706 |
Bravo!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hargrave
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 6:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: First Flight RV8, N426NC, s/n 80706
Dear friends and RV Builders:
I would like to announce that RV8 s/n 80706 made its first flight yesterday
afternoon at 5:56 p.m. from Milton FL airport. It left the ground after
250-300' takeoff roll and climbed at 1900fpm / 90kias to 1400'. It orbited
the field 24" / 2400 rpm indicating 147-160 kias. Oil temps 130 to 170 @
85 psi. CHT 240-280. EGT did not indicate at all so I must have wired the
instrument backwards. The airplane was in trim with a centered balance
ball. Slight aileron trim was needed to correct for fuel burn during
flight. Landing was uneventful after a 15 minute flight. The champagne
tasted nice afterwards.
"Thank you's" to Rusty Duffy, Jack Rowell and Dale Holbert who served as my
ground team and who helped me build this thing over the past 2 years.
Thanks also to John Henley who checked me out in his RV-6 prior to my
first flight. His instruction was very professional and introduced me to
performance characteristics of the RV series aircraft. Words fail to
express the thanks owed to my wife Nancy and sons Paul and Mark who helped
me build and listened to my whining about platenuts for these 2 years. It
was a special day for us and I was glad to have them witness and share in
yesterdays moment. The RV grin helped to hide the tears as I taxied back
to the ramp and shutdown the engine.
Best wishes to you all.
Bob Hargrave
Tech. stuff:
1086 empty wt/ 77.8 cg (for those keeping score this is fwd of limit before
loading fuel and pilot. Battery is on f/w.)
210 pilot/chute
150 fuel
1446 TOGW for test flight
Aero Sport O-360-A1A
Hartzell c/s; Woodward gov.
Panel IFR instruments; Van's engine, fuel gauges.
Becki Ordorff's seats (which are just right height by the way).
Pacific Aero Harness
No paint or wheel pants/fairings as yet.
photos on website below.
http://home.att.net/~bobby.hargrave/pages/firstflight.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
> > > > For a carburated motor, is it permissible to have portions of the
> > > > suction side of the fuel system slightly above the level of the
> > > > mechanical pump inlet?
Mine does, works fine. For reasons I don't recall right now, my fuel
line goes up fairly high on the firewall, then drops down to the
gascolator, and from there over to the mechanical fuel pump (O-360-
A1A). The other night I conducted a test of the fuel system. After
flying, I turned the fuel selector to off. Wait, wait wait. Fuel pressure
to zero. Wait some more. Engine still running. Wait. Engine finally
starts to falter (boost pump turned off, by the way). As engine begins
to falter, turn fuel selector (stock, in stock location) to right tank.
Engine immediately returns to normal.
So, yes, it'll work OK with parts of the fuel line above the level of the
mechanical fuel pump. My web site (engine section) shows photos of
my layout.
Tim Lewis
67 hours
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The VonDane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
Check this out: http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~fortuned/homeav.html
Also, Kitplanes:1993 - New Products: Heads-Up Instrument Panel
for Home-
builts, Feb., p. 86.
Bill VonDane, Colorado
RV-8A, N912V, Wings
http://vondane.com
> Listers--
>
> At Oshkosh 2-3 years ago, there was a vendor hawking a nifty little Head
Up
> Display unit for general aviation. It was rather impressive, but I wasn't
in
> the market at that time. I even picked up the literature, but have long
since
> disgarded it.
>
> Does anyone know if that manufacturer is still around? Any leads on
another
> maker of a lightweight HUD? I scanned the Yeller Pages, but didn't see
any
> references to a HUD.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --Don McNamara
> N8RV (fuse)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The VonDane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning airplanes was:Cleaning Off Bugs |
I have a bottle of "Dri Wash 'n Guard" right here in front of me... I have
used it on my cars, WORKS GREAT! I was thinking of becoming a distributor,
so if you all promise to buy a bottle or 2 I'll do it!
Bill VonDane, Colorado
RV-8A, N912V, Wings
http://vondane.com
> DRI WASH 'n GUARD
> http://www.enviro-tech.com/html/dwg.html
>
> $38.95 per quart is the most expensive cleaner I have
> used but one quart will last an entire year. This was
> the only product that I used over a 12 month peroid on
> my RV-6. It also is good on the plexiglass. The only
> down side on the plexi is that it does generate a
> little bit of static. It also is pricey. Love the
> product but do not like the price.
>
> I have tried several others including "Protect-all".
> http://www.protectall.com/planes.htm (bought mine at
> Wal-Mart) It is ok but it is more work and did not
> shine as nice.
>
> After 2.5 years of not washing the airplane, I still
> think that the Dri Wash 'n Guard is the best. YES. I
> have not washed the airplane with a hose and bucket
> since it was painted. 560+ flying hours.
>
> If anyone has any other aiplane cleaners (other than
> Pledge) that they like, let me know on or off the
> list.
>
> Just like the other posts, clean the bugs off when you
> put the airplane away if you know you will not have
> dew on it in the morning.
>
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> Flying So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EMPENNAGE FAIRING RV-6-A-QB |
Tom,
Congrats on the check ride! I had faith.
Glad the fairing fit, you were about the last $100 one however. The price
now is $115, UPS was making more on them than I am.
Fly high, fast, and upside down!!!!!
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/7/2000 7:49:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
<< To bad you have not talked to the people that don't
like him or think he is a class act.
>>
Well we wont say what we think of you since my mother taught me not to say
anything if you cant say anything nice.
also I was on the phone with Vans today to fix an order I have with them and
they didnt say ahything bad about team rocket or mark. Asked me how my
rocket was coming along and if i would stop bye and say hi to them at
airventure.
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket # 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: audio flight avionics |
In a message dated 6/7/00 12:48:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wedgie(at)interlog.com writes:
<< One of my customers, Richard Jennings, has given me your website address
and suggested that I contact you.
I would love to talk to you about the difficulties that AFA has been
having and what I am doing to correct them. I see that I am already on
your list, but with the old email address. AFA can now be reached at
wedgie(at)interlog.com.
Please call me at 416 264 0968 (Tuesday to Wednesday is best) or email me
back. >>
Peter-
Please post a message to rv-list(at)matronics.com that addresses itself to the
RV community at large and articulates your corrective action plan. Please
solicit responses from any, as of yet, unsatisfied customers and invite them
to contact you via your new e-mail address. If you do this and we find that
in the near future the community is satisfied, we will be happy to reinstate
you without the caveat.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV Custodian of the RV Builders' Yeller Pages)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
Don,
You have my condolances. I have been working the damn 'glass since about '57
off and on and am no longer in my right mind. Shortening it further probibly
isnt going to help at this point, although you might consider a 2 cylinder
engine of some sort.
If I were trying to add on I would use something on the outside surface and
extend it over the edge about 2 times the amount you need to add. Use
anything that will follow the contour, a waxed strip of aluminum would be
fine. Grind the inside at least 2 " back from the edge and make the edge as
thin as practical. Lay enough layers of cloth and resin on the part and the
extension to at least equal the original thickness.
Take off the extension and look what a mess you made on the outside. Back to
the grinder. Grind the wound so the old edge goes away then lay a couple of
layers of cloth on the area. Now grind the new layers flat with the old
surface. It's now time for the Bondo, I prefere a product named Evercoat, at
your local auto store.
Bob
Fairings Etc. e mail
IMFAIRINGS(at)AOL.COM
360-659-5055
Feel free to call, perhaps I can confuse you further!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Auto Pilot |
Anyone have a Navaid or S-Tech 20 or 30 that they want to
sell.
If so, please email me at jerryb(at)point.total-web.net.
Jerry Bryan RV6
N40JP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hargrave <bobby.hargrave(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
"RV Builders List (E-mail)" ,
"Brian Denk (E-mail)" ,
"John Henley (E-mail)" ,
"Lou Smith (E-mail)"
"Rusty Duffy (E-mail)"
| Subject: | RV8 Control Problems |
Gentleman and Ladies:
1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control
horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all
flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all
panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
Bobby Hargrave
80706 N426NC
Cell. 901.834.1281
home 850.473.9105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: super-6: End It. |
--- CW9371(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/7/2000 7:49:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
> jsflyrv(at)teleport.com writes:
>
> << To bad you have not talked to the people that don't
> like him or think he is a class act.
> >>
> Well we wont say what we think of you since my mother taught me not
> to say
> anything if you cant say anything nice.
Will you guys take this off line, please?
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stefan King <stefanking_1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Super-6 Project Details |
You know, instead of all this bikering about 'who did
whom wrong/right' on this list, I'd really like to
hear more about this Super 6 project.
Anybody care to elaborate? I promise there'll be no
flames from this lister...
Stefan
Sanford, FL
"opinions are like a$$holes, everybody has at least
one, but some people are more gifted than others"
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MAC Servo Mounting Hardware |
I used what I think are referred to as "speed nuts". They are folded over
stamped pieces of metal with little flanges that ride in the ridges of the
screw. They slip over the edge of the angle. I picked up a handful of them
at Osh......er.....AirVenture in the Flea Market area for about $ 5.00. I
know Spruce has them.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6
"Inspection TOMORROW!!!"
----- Original Message -----
From: D. Winters <dtw50(at)freewwweb.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 6:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: MAC Servo Mounting Hardware
>
> I am trying to mount the MAC servo in my RV-6 empenage. The plans say to
> use the supplied hardware, and I just discovered that there is none in the
> box. What are you folks using to attach the servo to the 2 aluminum
> brackets that mount to the cover plate? Can I use a couple of #8, grade 8
> cap screws and some nylock nuts? The mounting holes are *very* close to
the
> formed flanges on the aluminum brackets. In my opinion, they are too
close.
> Do you guys have any suggestions?
>
> Don Winters
> RV-6
> Empenage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lt. Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
Hi Guys,
I thought I'd throw out my solution... "Turtle Wax's Bug and Tar and
Tree Sap Remover". I'm sure it's not TSOed or STDed or anything, but I've
been using it for several years. It does contain a wax (some sort of
petroleum distillate). It was recommended to me by an Auto Paint Shop guy
and my A&P/IA looked it over and didn't say no... so I gave it a try and I
liked it. If anyone knows of any reason(s) why I shouldn't be using it,
Please by all means let me know.
Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Heater Selector/Bypass Box |
Ordering parts for my RV-6A. Van's Accessory Catalog has two heater
boxes available. One is a square box, the other is triangular. The
trianglular is lighter and a few bucks cheaper. The Heater Kit option
comes with the triangular box.
Is there any preference among the listers? Pros and Cons?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry -xlax- Lovisone <netters2(at)ns.net> |
\"Brian Denk (E-mail)\"" ,
"John Henley (E-mail)" ,
"Ed Storo (E-mail)"
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8 Control Problems |
Hiya Bobby...
Thanks for the info... I plan on subsisting plain nuts with self locking nuts...
Every completed and flying RV8 pushes me on...
I've been busy redesigning and machining custom throttles to replace the stock
lawn mover
looking controls...
http://www.rvators.com/larry/pic1/TQuadRed.JPG
Larry xlax Lovisone USAF ret.
The Busy Little Machine Shop
RV8 weak wing theorist
http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
Bobby Hargrave wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Bobby Hargrave
>
> Gentleman and Ladies:
>
> 1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
> aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
> forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
> off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control
> horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all
> flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
> aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all
> panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
> flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
> You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
>
> Bobby Hargrave
> 80706 N426NC
>
> Cell. 901.834.1281
> home 850.473.9105
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | RV8 canopy centerline |
Listers,
Is there anyone out there who has had to find the centerline on their canopy
when they have no canopy flange to reference from? I purchased my canopy tinted
from Foxlite via Van's and when I open the package I discovered that the flange
had been cut off for me already. While this is a plus for shipping it's a
definite minus for correct measuring and cutting of the canopy. I know there
was a post about this a few months back but I spent the last hour searching the
archives with no luck in locating it.
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finish )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems |
Listers; reading this post makes me wonder why we don't hear more about the
use of Locktite (tm) or other thread locking ashesives on this forum. I am
using and will continue to use Locktite on all low-temp fasteners, even the
elastic locking type. I have seen numerous situations where thread-locking
adhesives were the only thing that would keep things together. Alfa-Romeo
connecting rod bolts in race engines turned to 9000 rpm comes to mind. Any
comments from the airplane experts out there? Andy Johnson, -8 wings almost
done.
Gentleman and Ladies:
1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
off the forward attachment bearing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Weak wing theory |
Just looked at Larry's weak wing theory web page, I offer one more RV8 wing
detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was rather
shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures
occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the
wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross
sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must
significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill a
big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural
member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to
the termination of the wing spar flange bars.
I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no
problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too, if
anyone has designed something please advise.
Greg Miller
RV8 N89GM: fill and sand, fill and sand...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry -xlax-
Lovisone
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 9:39 AM
Ed Storo (E-mail)
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Control Problems
--> RV8-List message posted by: Larry -xlax- Lovisone
Hiya Bobby...
Thanks for the info... I plan on subsisting plain nuts with self locking
nuts...
Every completed and flying RV8 pushes me on...
I've been busy redesigning and machining custom throttles to replace the
stock lawn mover
looking controls...
http://www.rvators.com/larry/pic1/TQuadRed.JPG
Larry xlax Lovisone USAF ret.
The Busy Little Machine Shop
RV8 weak wing theorist
http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Heater Selector/Bypass Box |
>Is there any preference among the listers? Pros and Cons?
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6A QB
I needed the room, less bulky, so the triangle type seemed the best.
I used the 2, one on each side, attached to one muff, with 2 controls.
They are angle to exhaust the air at bottom cowl outlet. The system
puts out more heat than I can use, so far in Oregon with a OAT of
20F at altitude, in January. I had to shut them down to about a 1/4 open after
a few minutes in the air. I put 3 stainless steel scrub pads from the kitchen
department inside the muff. The Pads worked much better than the springs I had
in before.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stefan King <stefanking_1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm) |
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that
Loctite (tm) (the blue stuff) on nylon locknuts is a
no-no, as the adhesive attacks the plastic over time,
thereby compromising the nut's locking capability.
Stefan
Sanford, FL
--- RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers; reading this post makes me wonder why we
> don't hear more about the
> use of Locktite (tm) or other thread locking
> ashesives on this forum. I am
> using and will continue to use Locktite on all
> low-temp fasteners, even the
> elastic locking type
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 canopy centerline |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Randy Lervold has a article in Rvator 5th 99 page 11.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Is there anyone out there who has had to find the centerline on
> their canopy
> when they have no canopy flange to reference from? I purchased my
> canopy tinted
> from Foxlite via Van's and when I open the package I discovered that
> the flange
> had been cut off for me already. While this is a plus for shipping
> it's a
> definite minus for correct measuring and cutting of the canopy. I
> know there
> was a post about this a few months back but I spent the last hour
> searching the
> archives with no luck in locating it.
>
> Thx,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ ( finish )
> N89JA (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Heater Selector/Bypass Box |
>Is there any preference among the listers? Pros and Cons?
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6A QB
I needed the room, less bulky, so the triangle type seemed the best.
I used the 2, one on each side, attached to one muff, with 2 controls.
They are angle to exhaust the air at bottom cowl outlet. The system
puts out more heat than I can use, so far in Oregon with a OAT of
20F at altitude, in January. I had to shut them down to about a 1/4 open after
a few minutes in the air. I put 3 stainless steel scrub pads from the kitchen
department inside the muff. The Pads worked much better than the springs I had
in before.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Fw: Oh Boy!! |
by priv-edtnes03-hme0.telusplanet.net
(InterMail vM.4.01.02.11 201-229-116-111) with SMTP
From: "Kelly Gray" <kelly(at)globalautolink.com>
Subject: Fw: Oh Boy!!
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 10:44:51 -0600
----- Original Message -----
From: <Liziz9021(at)aol.com>
; ; ;
; ; ;
;
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 7:26 PM
Subject: Oh Boy!!
> A blonde is walking down the street with her blouse open and her
> right breast hanging out. A policeman approaches her and says,
> "Ma'am, are you aware that I could cite you for indecent exposure?"
>
> She says, "Why, officer?"
>
> "Because your breast is hanging out."
>
> She looks down and says,
> "OH MY GOD, I left the baby on the bus again!"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
"rv8-list(at)matronics.com \"Brian Denk \(E-mail\)\"" ,
"John Henley \(E-mail\)" ,
"Ed Storo \(E-mail\)"
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: RV8 Control Problems |
They do make self locking jam nuts.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry -xlax- Lovisone" <netters2(at)ns.net>
"John Henley (E-mail)" ; "Ed Storo (E-mail)"
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 10:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Control Problems
>
> Hiya Bobby...
> Thanks for the info... I plan on subsisting plain nuts with self locking
nuts...
>
> Every completed and flying RV8 pushes me on...
> I've been busy redesigning and machining custom throttles to replace the
stock lawn mover
> looking controls...
> http://www.rvators.com/larry/pic1/TQuadRed.JPG
>
> Larry xlax Lovisone USAF ret.
> The Busy Little Machine Shop
> RV8 weak wing theorist
> http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
>
>
> Bobby Hargrave wrote:
>
> > --> RV8-List message posted by: Bobby Hargrave
> >
> > Gentleman and Ladies:
> >
> > 1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
> > aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found
the
> > forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had
backed
> > off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the
control
> > horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected
all
> > flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
> > aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced
all
> > panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
> > flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
> > You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
> >
> > Bobby Hargrave
> > 80706 N426NC
> >
> > Cell. 901.834.1281
> > home 850.473.9105
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
In a message dated 6/7/00 5:31:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
versadek(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< have modified the fuel system on my "6" tail dragger so that the fuel
valve
is mounted almost vertically on a bracket just above the seat.
The electric pump is mounted directly forward of the fuel valve on a bracket
above the battery box. >>
1. How does the selector mounting differ from Van's design? From your
description I can't tell the difference
2. How did you run and support the fuel line from the selector to the
electric pump if it doesn't go down and along the floor?
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Pushrod question |
I am installing my control stick and associated push rods. Where would I
find information on properly securing the rod end bearings and jam nuts? I
tried to RTFM but I didn't fund much in the RV-4 manual.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm) |
I am quit certain that Loctite is benign. Hardly anything affects Nylon so
I think you have been feed a bill of goods by someone that...
a. doesn't know
b. Finds it's harder to remove than the plastic lock alone.
c. Can't be bothered with that new-fangled stuff.
I would check with Loctite directly before I sent out information about an
excellent product.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan King" <stefanking_1999(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm)
>
> Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that
> Loctite (tm) (the blue stuff) on nylon locknuts is a
> no-no, as the adhesive attacks the plastic over time,
> thereby compromising the nut's locking capability.
>
> Stefan
> Sanford, FL
>
>
> --- RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers; reading this post makes me wonder why we
> > don't hear more about the
> > use of Locktite (tm) or other thread locking
> > ashesives on this forum. I am
> > using and will continue to use Locktite on all
> > low-temp fasteners, even the
> > elastic locking type
>
>
> Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
> http://photos.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm) |
I just went to the Loctite site. Maybe this is what you have in mind.
"Threadlockers should only be used on metal-to-metal applications, because
the Threadlocker turns into a plastic-like substance."
So that either the plastic lock works, or the Loctite works in the metal
threads. It appears that you can have one but not both.
But once again I would e-mail for a direct answer as this was the response
to why Loctite didn't work on an ALL Plastic nut.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan King" <stefanking_1999(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm)
>
> Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that
> Loctite (tm) (the blue stuff) on nylon locknuts is a
> no-no, as the adhesive attacks the plastic over time,
> thereby compromising the nut's locking capability.
>
> Stefan
> Sanford, FL
>
>
> --- RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers; reading this post makes me wonder why we
> > don't hear more about the
> > use of Locktite (tm) or other thread locking
> > ashesives on this forum. I am
> > using and will continue to use Locktite on all
> > low-temp fasteners, even the
> > elastic locking type
>
>
> Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
> http://photos.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pushrod question |
I do not know if my post made it through but I am
going to use castelated nuts and cotter keys for this
control system. You should be able to cross reference
the bolts with any aircraft parts store
Glenn
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
wrote:
> Scott"
>
> I am installing my control stick and associated push
> rods. Where would I
> find information on properly securing the rod end
> bearings and jam nuts? I
> tried to RTFM but I didn't fund much in the RV-4
> manual.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
> I offer one more RV8 wing
>detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was rather
>shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures
>occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the
>wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross
>sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must
>significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill a
>big hole.
>
>I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no
>problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too, if
>anyone has designed something please advise.
>
>Greg Miller
>RV8 N89GM: fill and sand, fill and sand...
>
At the risk of fanning the flames of this almost dead fire again,
engineers can make mistakes. To me, a definite non-engineer, it seems
like engineers should design things on the basis of "stress analysis"
then those things should be tested to see if they ACTUALLY are as strong
as they are thought to be.
The RV-8 wing has been extensively tested and the testing is well
documented. The wing does not fail until it is outside design
parameters. What more can one ask? Where it fails does not seem very
relevant. It would be asking a whole lot to expect the wing to fail
everywhere at once.
Now if someone starts tampering (improving?) with the design, I sure hope
they do testing just as extensive as the tests that Van's did on the
original design. Even a non-engineer understands that adding parts to
something does not necessarily strengthen it, and indeed, the opposite is
likely.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
Larry this is the best post I have seen to date on the
so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are always
told that the engineer designed it and the A&P works
on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just fly
the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
g-limits and you will be fine.
Glenn
--- Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
>
> >
>
> >
>
>
> > I offer one more RV8 wing
> >detail that has bothered me as a structural
> engineer ever since I was rather
> >shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C
> where the failures
> >occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension
> (bottom) flange of the
> >wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks
> like it reduces the cross
> >sectional area of the tension flange by more than
> half. That must
> >significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is
> the worst place to drill a
> >big hole.
>
>
> >
> >I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress
> analysis to show no
> >problems. However I seriously considered some form
> of strengthening too, if
> >anyone has designed something please advise.
> >
> >Greg Miller
> >RV8 N89GM: fill and sand, fill and sand...
> >
>
> At the risk of fanning the flames of this almost
> dead fire again,
> engineers can make mistakes. To me, a definite
> non-engineer, it seems
> like engineers should design things on the basis of
> "stress analysis"
> then those things should be tested to see if they
> ACTUALLY are as strong
> as they are thought to be.
>
> The RV-8 wing has been extensively tested and the
> testing is well
> documented. The wing does not fail until it is
> outside design
> parameters. What more can one ask? Where it fails
> does not seem very
> relevant. It would be asking a whole lot to expect
> the wing to fail
> everywhere at once.
>
> Now if someone starts tampering (improving?) with
> the design, I sure hope
> they do testing just as extensive as the tests that
> Van's did on the
> original design. Even a non-engineer understands
> that adding parts to
> something does not necessarily strengthen it, and
> indeed, the opposite is
> likely.
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Setrab Cooler Postmortem |
Really appreciate your sharing of info on this. I now have a setrab mounted
behing the no. 4, but won't for much longer.
Thanks again, and am sure glad your incident worked out ok.
hilljw(at)aol.com
8a )75hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Hi Harry,
1. Van's mounts the valve horizontally at the same height as the seat bottoms.
My
valve is mounted almost vertically just above the seat. It is mounted on a
widened section added to the bottom of the f-682 consul. This is mounted on a
removable bracket attached directly to the wing carry threw structure so you can
remove the seat bottoms without removing the consul.
2. My fuel valve outlet is almost a straight shot forward to the pump. You can
make a stand off (bracket) to hold the fuel line in place with an adel clamp. I
have a 11.5 gal center fuel tank with the fuel pump mounted on the bottom of it
and don't need additional support for the fuel line.
I hope this answers your questions.
Garry RV6 Finishing
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> 1. How does the selector mounting differ from Van's design? From your
> description I can't tell the difference
> 2. How did you run and support the fuel line from the selector to the
> electric pump if it doesn't go down and along the floor?
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6 finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/A Fuel tube routing |
Hi Harry,
1. Van's mounts the valve horizontally at the same height as the seat bottoms.
My
valve is mounted almost vertically just above the seat. It is mounted on a
widened section added to the bottom of the f-682 consul. This is mounted on a
removable bracket attached directly to the wing carry threw structure so you can
remove the seat bottoms without removing the consul.
2. My fuel valve outlet is almost a straight shot forward to the pump. You can
make a stand off (bracket) to hold the fuel line in place with an adel clamp. I
have a 11.5 gal center fuel tank with the fuel pump mounted on the bottom of it
and don't need additional support for the fuel line.
I hope this answers your questions.
Garry RV6 Finishing
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> 1. How does the selector mounting differ from Van's design? From your
> description I can't tell the difference
> 2. How did you run and support the fuel line from the selector to the
> electric pump if it doesn't go down and along the floor?
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6 finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV"@matronics.com
| From: | Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems |
I have found after building several RVs, 6s and a 4 that the jam nuts will
loosen because of the over rotation of the hemie bearing that they are to
lock. To have the given up and down degrees of the controls they have to
rotate more than a regular hookup with a bolt and possibly washers will
allow. Van sells a special washer that is 3/16" or bolts size with a
outside diameter that is small enough for the bearing to freely rotate over
it and will correct your problem. If you donot use the washers you will
always loosen the jam nut or twist the control tube if you lock everything
tight. I am not in my shop withmaterial information to give you the
numbers of the washers, but if you want more information just return mail.
I don't know if Van sends them in the kit and we don't find them, but I
have always orders a dozen or so for each airplane that I have put together.
This is a necessary item to check on all of the RV series planes.
Ralph Koger RV-6A N16RK
>
>1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
>aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
>forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
>off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control
>horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all
>flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
>aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all
>panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
>flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
>You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
>
>Bobby Hargrave
>80706 N426NC
>
>Cell. 901.834.1281
>home 850.473.9105
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
"RV"@matronics.com
| From: | Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems |
I have found after building several RVs, 6s and a 4 that the jam nuts will
loosen because of the over rotation of the hemie bearing that they are to
lock. To have the given up and down degrees of the controls they have to
rotate more than a regular hookup with a bolt and possibly washers will
allow. Van sells a special washer that is 3/16" or bolts size with a
outside diameter that is small enough for the bearing to freely rotate over
it and will correct your problem. If you donot use the washers you will
always loosen the jam nut or twist the control tube if you lock everything
tight. I am not in my shop withmaterial information to give you the
numbers of the washers, but if you want more information just return mail.
I don't know if Van sends them in the kit and we don't find them, but I
have always orders a dozen or so for each airplane that I have put together.
This is a necessary item to check on all of the RV series planes.
Ralph Koger RV-6A N16RK
>
>1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
>aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
>forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
>off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control
>horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all
>flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
>aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all
>panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
>flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
>You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
>
>Bobby Hargrave
>80706 N426NC
>
>Cell. 901.834.1281
>home 850.473.9105
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hartzell mounting questions |
Listers,
Checked the archives for these questions, no joy. I'm mounting my prop this
weekend after finishing up the spinner bulkhead tonight...
1. With the blades at full course (held by two burly guys), and when using
the supplied 1/4" spacers on the spinner bulkhead bolts, my bulkhead has
about 1/8" clearance to the prop blade shaft. Is this adequate, or should I
add a washer for a bit more?
2. When bolting up the prop, should the O-ring in the prop hub be
pre-lubricated with anything? The choices seem to be a) nothing, 2) engine
oil, or 3) Dow Corning DC-4 which is used on the engine oil filter.
Thanks to those that know.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, fwf
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
>
> I offer one more RV8 wing
>detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was rather
>shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures
>occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the
>wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross
>sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must
>significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill a
>big hole.
Folks, structures usually fail in compression, not tension (unless we're
talking about string, and we're not). For instance, you can hang a lot more
weight from a 3/16" diameter rod than you can support by a 3/16" diameter
column.
Under positive G acro, the bottom skins on the wing are loaded in tension,
the top in compression. One more hole in the bottom skin or spar isn't gonna
matter much. That is, assuming you're not doing heavy duty negative G's. I
submit that RV's are the wrong type craft for that brand of flying anyway.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems |
>I have found after building several RVs, 6s and a 4 that the jam nuts will
loosen because of the over rotation of the hemie bearing that they are to
lock. To have the given up and down degrees of the control travel, they
have to rotate more than a regular hookup with a bolt and possibly washers
will allow. Van sells a special washer that is 3/16" or bolt size with a
outside diameter that is small enough for the bearing to freely rotate over
it and will correct your problem. If you donot use the washers you will
always loosen the jam nut or twist the control tube if you lock everything
tight. I don't know if Van sends them in the kits, but I know that I have
always ordered a few for each plane that I have put together. I don't know
if this has been addressed very much before but I feel that it is important
for all RVs to be checked for the full movement of the controls without
loosening of the jam nuts or the twisting of the controls. I am not in my
shop but if you need the numbers of the special washers I can get them for
you. I know that Vans will help you out with a call and they know what you
need. If I can help you with more information get back to me.
Ralph Koger RV6A N16RK
>1.5 hours into 3rd test flight, my RV8 developed a slight play in the
>aileron channel. Landed aircraft immediately and investigated. Found the
>forward end of the cockpit control horn assy loose. The jam nut had backed
>off the forward attachment bearing allowing the forward end of the control
>horn assy to sway. Tightened jam nut and corrected problem. Inspected all
>flight control fittings and attachments. Found left outboard end of
>aileron push/pull tube bearing jam nut loose. Tighten nut and replaced all
>panels. Checked all flight surface deflections. Released aircraft for
>flight. This occurred with less than 3 hours time in service.
>You 8 flyers might want to check this before your next flight.
>
>Bobby Hargrave
>80706 N426NC
>
>Cell. 901.834.1281
>home 850.473.9105
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
Greg Miller wrote:
> In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures
> occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the
> wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross
> sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must
> significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill a
> big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural
> member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to
> the termination of the wing spar flange bars.
>
> I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no
> problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too, if
> anyone has designed something please advise.
>
Using a one piece 0.032 skin on the botton would probably make up for the hole.
Would add a few pounds but the riveting would sure look nice. Could really beef
it up if you used it on top and bottom. I did it on my -4 but only to eliminate
the overlap joints.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Weak Wing Theory (Van's reply)... |
I sent Van's the Weak Wing Theory - their reply follows:
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Risan <support(at)vansaircraft.com>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory...
the one wing that has failed did not fail at this location.
an analysis was done on this area both before the kit was released
and after the accident....determined that it was not a structural
problem.
if you had seen the loading of these wings during testing, you would
not be concerned about pulling a wing off.
the simple fact is ....the manuvering speed of the -8 is about
140mph, the cruise speeds are upwards of 180mph...if the airplane
isn't flown with respect, it can be broken.
if you fly the plane within the designed parameters...+6, -3 G's,
you will not have a problem.
scott at van's
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: RV-8 Weak Wing Theory...
> I'm about ready to order the RV-8, and got the following from the RV List.
> Please comment on this post, and the Weak Wing Website, and give me a warm
> feeling that the wing won't snap on me!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Ludwig, Tucson
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> "Just looked at Larry's weak wing theory web page, I offer one more RV8
wing
> detail that has bothered me as a structural engineer ever since I was
rather
> shocked to see it. In my QB left wing, at point C where the failures
> occurred, a large hole is bored through the tension (bottom) flange of the
> wing spar for the pitot tube penetration. Looks like it reduces the cross
> sectional area of the tension flange by more than half. That must
> significantly weaken the wing at point C, and is the worst place to drill
a
> big hole. As Larry pointed out, this is the only continuous structural
> member at that location and there are already stress concentrators due to
> the termination of the wing spar flange bars.
>
> "I only hope some aeronautical engineer did a stress analysis to show no
> problems. However I seriously considered some form of strengthening too,
if
> anyone has designed something please advise.
>
> ~ Greg Miller ~
>
> RV-8 Weak Wing Website: http://www.rvators.com/rv8wing.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
Preface:
This is not a flame. I am not a PE. I do have a degree in engineering, but
it has dust on it.
Not sure that this is 100% correct. It would seem that a wing structure is
under cyclical loading as opposed to a static structure. These cycles would
tend to affect a cross section that has been reduced in area more than the
full cross section. Also, I have never heard of stress raisers being formed
in a member under compression. In other words, I think there are much more
complex dynamics than simply saying that structures don't fail under
tension.
My $.02, worth much less.
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Tanks
Parker, CO
>
> Folks, structures usually fail in compression, not tension (unless we're
> talking about string, and we're not). For instance, you can hang a lot
more
> weight from a 3/16" diameter rod than you can support by a 3/16" diameter
> column.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Selector/Bypass Box |
I wish that I had added a mixer to my heater system. The footwell area gets
hot and has little airflow. I have a 2" air hose from the left forward
baffle to a heat muff on the left exhaust, and then into the square heat box
on the firewall. In the summer, I connect the supply directly to the heat
box so I can get cold air at the rudder pedals, but in the winter, switch
back. I would be sure to include a mixer to solve the problem.
Bruce Patton
-6A.a 596S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | New ILS avionics on the way. |
For Anyone interested in an economical way to add ILS capability to
their aircraft, check out...
http://www.valavionics.com/INS422TSO.html
There is a limited signup section on their website to receive special
pricing on this unit when it becomes available.
Hope this helps someone.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell mounting questions |
> 1. With the blades at full course (held by two burly guys), and when
using
> the supplied 1/4" spacers on the spinner bulkhead bolts, my bulkhead has
> about 1/8" clearance to the prop blade shaft. Is this adequate, or should
I
> add a washer for a bit more?
Be happy with the 1/8" clearance. Mine interfered with the aft bulkhead in
the full coarse condition. It wasn't a simple as adding washers to move
the aft bulkhead aft, since moving it aft would cause a interference fit
condition between the forward bulkhead and the spinner. My choices were to
either rework the forward bulkhead with some sort of rings to move it aft
also, or to make clearance in the aft bulkhead for the prop blades. I
chose to make clearance in the aft bulkhead and reinforced it somewhat to
compensate.
In any case, remember that the fore/aft distance between the two bulkheads
is driven by the spinner alone.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A systems
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 6/8/00 16:18, Ralph Koger at kogrh(at)willinet.net wrote:
>
> I have found after building several RVs, 6s and a 4 that the jam nuts will
> loosen because of the over rotation of the hemie bearing that they are to
> lock. To have the given up and down degrees of the controls they have to
> rotate more than a regular hookup with a bolt and possibly washers will
> allow. Van sells a special washer that is 3/16" or bolts size with a
> outside diameter that is small enough for the bearing to freely rotate over
> it and will correct your problem. If you donot use the washers you will
> always loosen the jam nut or twist the control tube if you lock everything
> tight. I am not in my shop withmaterial information to give you the
> numbers of the washers, but if you want more information just return mail.
> I don't know if Van sends them in the kit and we don't find them, but I
> have always orders a dozen or so for each airplane that I have put together.
> This is a necessary item to check on all of the RV series planes.
> Ralph Koger RV-6A N16RK
Ralph, your post was a breath of fresh air on the list!! What a great tip.
I was particulalry glad to see it in view of the various misinformation and
loosely related chatter.
I believe he called these seastrom washers when he first came out with them,
but I too don't remember the nomenclature. I know one when I see them.
I love my sun shade.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hamer" <shamer(at)mscomm.com> |
| Subject: | Bagotville Airshow, Canada |
Any RVers going to the airshow at Bagotville this weekend, stop by the
KC-135 and introduce yourself. I'll give you a good tour if you want one.
I don't know if there will be more than one tanker there, but I'll be on the
one from March Field, Ca. (452 AMW).
Steve Hamer
RV-4 flying
RV-6 finishing last wing-fuselage delivered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
Hello Yall
I am trying to get an aluminum EYE BALL vent to match the large one
purchased from Chief Aircraft. They are on backorder from them and ACS.
The estimated release date is 8 to 12 weeks. From my experience this
figure will at lease double by the time they come in. The part number is
WEM 2373-1. Does anyone know of another middle man who may have one in
stock or the manufacturer so a possible in stock middleman may be found.
George Meketa
RV8-QB canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
As far as oil breathers go... What about running a 3/4" aluminum pipe down
the inside of the fuselage and exit near the tail wheel. My dad did this in
the Pitts he built about 30 years ago. I'd like to do this in my RV6. The
main reason for this in my opinion is to keep the belly cleaner. Is there
any reason I shouldn't do this?
Ken Cantrell
rv6QB -finish stuff - no engine yet.
----- Original Message -----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Breather
>
> > Slip a length of regular automotive rubber radiator (heater)hose over
the
> > engine fitting and route it down to the exhaust ramp area or directly
over
>
> Sorry I didn't keep a record of the part number or what it fit but I went
> into an auto parts store and asked for a hose that fits this (socket) and
> bends 90 degrees. Nice formed hose resulted.
>
> A nicely formed piece of LIGHT WEIGHT fully formed aluminum tubing would
be
> a good product - Mr. Gretz???
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell mounting questions |
In a message dated 6/8/00 4:46:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
<< I'm mounting my prop this weekend after finishing up the spinner bulkhead
tonight...
1. With the blades at full coarse (held by two burly guys), and when using
the supplied 1/4" spacers on the spinner bulkhead bolts, my bulkhead has
about 1/8" clearance to the prop blade shaft. Is this adequate, or should I
add a washer for a bit more?>>
If you are sure that you have 1/8" then this is okay. I had to add a washer
to each spacer to get adequate clearance.
<< 2. When bolting up the prop, should the O-ring in the prop hub be
pre-lubricated with anything? The choices seem to be a) nothing, 2) engine
oil, or 3) Dow Corning DC-4 which is used on the engine oil filter. >>
I coat all of my 'O'-rings (and any other rubber parts, like Lord Mounts, for
that matter) with DC-4 no matter where they are. It protects completely
against ozone deterioration and lubricates.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm) |
In a message dated 6/8/00 11:09:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
stefanking_1999(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that
Loctite (tm) (the blue stuff) on nylon locknuts is a
no-no, as the adhesive attacks the plastic over time,
thereby compromising the nut's locking capability. >>
IMO this is completely incorrect.
1. The anaerobic methacrylate resins in Loctite 242 will not attack 6/6
nylon used in locknuts.
2. Loctite 242 will supplement the prevailing torque in the nylon locking
ring by filling the metal threads in the balance of the nut.
3. Loctite 242 must be reapplied upon removal of the fastener, whereas a
nyloc can be used a few times without completely losing its locking
capability.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Folks,
I gave my first ride today, (25 hours and 1 minute), and what a difference in
handling. The most pronounced are the landing char. The bottom will drop out
in a second. Some other things that have cropped up over 25 hours:
1. Do not put the teflon tape under the wing skin to protect the flap. I
still have not painted the machine, but the tape is scraching the flap skin.
2. The square heater box from Vans leaks. And it get very hot inside. I would
try something else.
3. I am presently flying in MEM, and I will need either cooling louvers, or a
cowl flap. I can not get #3 cht to come down.
4. The alternator belt was too long, and even though the pully was not near
the cowl, high G loads brought the assy. close enough to start a hole in the
cowl. Mainly the pully and the bolt head.
5. The handheld GPS in the panel is hard to see. (Lowrance 300). Would go to
a palm top or something else.
6. There is a druming (sounds like the props are out of sync) that I belive
is coming from the panel right behind the exhaust. (with the hinge pin to no
where). I think it needs stiffining.
7. Need a mirror to see the pax.
There will be more for sure.
Ed Storo 26 hours and still grinnnnnnnning.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: eve ball vents |
Hi George,
Do you mean the ones with a 2 inch square mounting flange and a 1 inch od
nozzle?
If so, they can be had from Neco (Lancair) for $47, part # 2230-1
(541-923-2244)
All alumiinum air nozzles that have a 'WEMAC' part prefix are made by BE
Aerospace in NY. 631-563-6400.
Hope this helps.
Bruce
Glasair III
meketa wrote:
>
> Hello Yall
>
> I am trying to get an aluminum EYE BALL vent to match the large one
> purchased from Chief Aircraft. They are on backorder from them and ACS.
> The estimated release date is 8 to 12 weeks. From my experience this
> figure will at lease double by the time they come in. The part number is
> WEM 2373-1. Does anyone know of another middle man who may have one in
> stock or the manufacturer so a possible in stock middleman may be found.
>
> George Meketa
> RV8-QB canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: eve ball vents |
> I am trying to get an aluminum EYE BALL vent to match the large one
> purchased from Chief Aircraft. They are on backorder from them and ACS.
> The estimated release date is 8 to 12 weeks. From my experience this
> figure will at lease double by the time they come in. The part number is
> WEM 2373-1. Does anyone know of another middle man who may have one in
> stock or the manufacturer so a possible in stock middleman may be found.
Give John Harmon a call and ask run that part number by him. It might be the
same as the one that he carries. They are the nicest eyeball vents I have
ever seen quality wise and they're big. He usually answers his email within
a few hours. You'll find his address in the Yeller Pages.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
glenn williams wrote:
> Larry this is the best post I have seen to date on the
> so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are always
> told that the engineer designed it and the A&P works
> on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just fly
> the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
> g-limits and you will be fine.
That's all very well, assuming there were no mistakes made by the
designer and/or tester.
On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was that perhaps the
wings that were tested didn't have this hole drilled... after all, if
the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to the trouble of fitting a
pitot tube to it?
Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested *did* have pitot
tubes fitted at the specified location?
I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but *maybe* there's
something in it????
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna placement |
Listers,
I've been installing a GPS Navigation system in my RV4. Now I'm ready to
install the antenna. Has anyone out there installed their antenna underneath
the cowling and if so, has it worked well in that location. I need an answer
by tomorrow morning. Thanks
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement |
Jim,
I installed my antenna under the cowl just behind the engine mount(RV-6). I have
been using it for over 150 hours with no problems.
Todd tmrv6(at)netzero.net N92TM RV-6 flying in Southern MD
Jim Nolan wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I've been installing a GPS Navigation system in my RV4. Now I'm ready to
> install the antenna. Has anyone out there installed their antenna underneath
> the cowling and if so, has it worked well in that location. I need an answer
> by tomorrow morning. Thanks
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Breather |
Just be sure you have a hole punched in the breather hose about 2 inches
down from where it come out of the engine in the winter (below freezing)
as moisture will freeze somewhere along the way to the exit at the
tail. If it becomes blocked, the usual place the engine breathes is
through the front crank seal which turns a nice VFR day into a nasty IFR
"night" flight. You could probably use a "summer" hose at the engine
port without a hole in it and replace it with a "winter" (with hole)
hose when the weather gets cool enough that encountering sub-freezing
temps during flight. I haven't tried this yet, but like other's
suggestion to aim the breather tube outlet onto an exhaust pipe to burn
it away. Food for thought.
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
Ken Cantrell wrote:
>
>
> As far as oil breathers go... What about running a 3/4" aluminum pipe down
> the inside of the fuselage and exit near the tail wheel. My dad did this in
> the Pitts he built about 30 years ago. I'd like to do this in my RV6. The
> main reason for this in my opinion is to keep the belly cleaner. Is there
> any reason I shouldn't do this?
>
> Ken Cantrell
> rv6QB -finish stuff - no engine yet.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:44 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Breather
>
> >
> > > Slip a length of regular automotive rubber radiator (heater)hose over
> the
> > > engine fitting and route it down to the exhaust ramp area or directly
> over
> >
> > Sorry I didn't keep a record of the part number or what it fit but I went
> > into an auto parts store and asked for a hose that fits this (socket) and
> > bends 90 degrees. Nice formed hose resulted.
> >
> > A nicely formed piece of LIGHT WEIGHT fully formed aluminum tubing would
> be
> > a good product - Mr. Gretz???
> >
> > hal
> >
> >
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: eve ball vents |
George:
These eyeball vents are manufactured by the Wemac Corporation. I have seen
their ads in Aviation Week and Space Technology, and they probably have a
web site. They are the leader in this area, also make eyeball reading
lights, etc. I would try to give them a call and see if you can purchase
direct or at least get a list of their dealers.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 11:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: eve ball vents
>
> Hello Yall
>
> I am trying to get an aluminum EYE BALL vent to match the large one
> purchased from Chief Aircraft. They are on backorder from them and ACS.
> The estimated release date is 8 to 12 weeks. From my experience this
> figure will at lease double by the time they come in. The part number is
> WEM 2373-1. Does anyone know of another middle man who may have one in
> stock or the manufacturer so a possible in stock middleman may be found.
>
> George Meketa
> RV8-QB canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 canopy centerline |
Use a seamstress tape to establish your C/L. One assumption is that the blank
of plactic was placed squarely in the press mold at the factory and whoever cut
the flange off did it evenly on both sides....... I would eyeball for the C/L
with light overhead so no shadows bias your eye.......establish a line that
way....then back measure evenly to establish a reference line ( lines) where
the flange was cut off.......pretty easy. Your only concern is that---- Was
there too much flange cut off ???
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com on 06/08/2000 11:49:37 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV8 canopy centerline
Listers,
Is there anyone out there who has had to find the centerline on their canopy
when they have no canopy flange to reference from? I purchased my canopy tinted
from Foxlite via Van's and when I open the package I discovered that the flange
had been cut off for me already. While this is a plus for shipping it's a
definite minus for correct measuring and cutting of the canopy. I know there
was a post about this a few months back but I spent the last hour searching the
archives with no luck in locating it.
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finish )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna placement |
Jim I have mine right in the center under the cowling on my RV-8 it works great!
Karl
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Nolan [SMTP:JimNolan(at)kconline.com]
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 05:17
Subject: RV-List: Antenna placement
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
The tape doesn't scratch the flap BUT dirt that easily embeds in the Teflon
tape probably does. Teflon is very soft.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <ERSF2B(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 11:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
>
> Folks,
> I gave my first ride today, (25 hours and 1 minute), and what a difference
in
> handling. The most pronounced are the landing char. The bottom will drop
out
> in a second. Some other things that have cropped up over 25 hours:
> 1. Do not put the teflon tape under the wing skin to protect the flap. I
> still have not painted the machine, but the tape is scraching the flap
skin.
> 2. The square heater box from Vans leaks. And it get very hot inside. I
would
> try something else.
> 3. I am presently flying in MEM, and I will need either cooling louvers,
or a
> cowl flap. I can not get #3 cht to come down.
> 4. The alternator belt was too long, and even though the pully was not
near
> the cowl, high G loads brought the assy. close enough to start a hole in
the
> cowl. Mainly the pully and the bolt head.
> 5. The handheld GPS in the panel is hard to see. (Lowrance 300). Would go
to
> a palm top or something else.
> 6. There is a druming (sounds like the props are out of sync) that I
belive
> is coming from the panel right behind the exhaust. (with the hinge pin to
no
> where). I think it needs stiffining.
> 7. Need a mirror to see the pax.
> There will be more for sure.
>
> Ed Storo 26 hours and still grinnnnnnnning.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
I believe the wings that Van's tested where purchased from a builder who was selling
his/her project.
-Jeff
RV-8 Fuselage Stuff
Atlanta
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:07:03 +1200
>
>glenn williams wrote:
>> Larry this is the best post I have seen to date on the
>> so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are always
>> told that the engineer designed it and the A&P works
>> on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just fly
>> the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
>> g-limits and you will be fine.
>
>That's all very well, assuming there were no mistakes made by the
>designer and/or tester.
>
>On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was that perhaps the
>wings that were tested didn't have this hole drilled... after all, if
>the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to the trouble of fitting a
>pitot tube to it?
>
>Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested *did* have pitot
>tubes fitted at the specified location?
>
>I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but *maybe* there's
>something in it????
>
>Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
I'm only going to add one thought here....from an engineer who used to do
life testing. One static test, using carefully applied sandbags is hardly a
realistic test of the environment these wings spend their life in. I've
never experienced turbulance that is carefully, slowly applied. Most
aerobatics by amateurs are probably less than smooth as well. As far as the
aircraft that broke, I would assume the rear passenger pulled on the stick
at cruise....and the front passenger just sat there??? No, I think
not....he likely pushed back....making the wings do a flap like move which
is a totally different kind of stress than a bunch of sandbags laid on it
with care. I would be very interested to know if that particular wing
departed under positive or negative G loading........
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank and Dorothy" <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 2:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Weak wing theory
>
> glenn williams wrote:
> > Larry this is the best post I have seen to date on the
> > so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are always
> > told that the engineer designed it and the A&P works
> > on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just fly
> > the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
> > g-limits and you will be fine.
>
> That's all very well, assuming there were no mistakes made by the
> designer and/or tester.
>
> On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was that perhaps the
> wings that were tested didn't have this hole drilled... after all, if
> the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to the trouble of fitting a
> pitot tube to it?
>
> Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested *did* have pitot
> tubes fitted at the specified location?
>
> I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but *maybe* there's
> something in it????
>
> Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
yes the wings were purchased from a builder who lost
interest and also you will note that the wings were
tested to failure and they went past the design load
before failure, but Van's does not elaborate on how
much further they went before failure. All in all I
strongly believe that we have a safe airplane guys.
Just ask the rv-8-8a people who are flying them now.
They will be our greatest ally in this so called weak
wing theory. As I said before stay inside the envelope
and you will be safe.
Glenn
--- jah wrote:
>
>
> I believe the wings that Van's tested where
> purchased from a builder who was selling his/her
> project.
>
> -Jeff
> RV-8 Fuselage Stuff
> Atlanta
>
> ---------- Original Message
> ----------------------------------
> From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
> Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:07:03 +1200
>
>
> >
> >glenn williams wrote:
> >> Larry this is the best post I have seen to date
> on the
> >> so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are
> always
> >> told that the engineer designed it and the A&P
> works
> >> on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just
> fly
> >> the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
> >> g-limits and you will be fine.
> >
> >That's all very well, assuming there were no
> mistakes made by the
> >designer and/or tester.
> >
> >On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was
> that perhaps the
> >wings that were tested didn't have this hole
> drilled... after all, if
> >the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to the
> trouble of fitting a
> >pitot tube to it?
> >
> >Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested
> *did* have pitot
> >tubes fitted at the specified location?
> >
> >I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but
> *maybe* there's
> >something in it????
> >
> >Frank.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm) |
Remember to keep the Loctite away from your plexi canopy. The curing vapors can
cause crazing in some instances.....
Vanremog(at)aol.com on 06/09/2000 12:15:00 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm)
In a message dated 6/8/00 11:09:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
stefanking_1999(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that
Loctite (tm) (the blue stuff) on nylon locknuts is a
no-no, as the adhesive attacks the plastic over time,
thereby compromising the nut's locking capability. >>
IMO this is completely incorrect.
1. The anaerobic methacrylate resins in Loctite 242 will not attack 6/6
nylon used in locknuts.
2. Loctite 242 will supplement the prevailing torque in the nylon locking
ring by filling the metal threads in the balance of the nut.
3. Loctite 242 must be reapplied upon removal of the fastener, whereas a
nyloc can be used a few times without completely losing its locking
capability.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Do you think aluim. to aluim would be better ?? What are you options at this
juncture ??
cgalley(at)accessus.net on 06/09/2000 09:04:32 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
The tape doesn't scratch the flap BUT dirt that easily embeds in the Teflon
tape probably does. Teflon is very soft.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <ERSF2B(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 11:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
>
> Folks,
> I gave my first ride today, (25 hours and 1 minute), and what a difference
in
> handling. The most pronounced are the landing char. The bottom will drop
out
> in a second. Some other things that have cropped up over 25 hours:
> 1. Do not put the teflon tape under the wing skin to protect the flap. I
> still have not painted the machine, but the tape is scraching the flap
skin.
> 2. The square heater box from Vans leaks. And it get very hot inside. I
would
> try something else.
> 3. I am presently flying in MEM, and I will need either cooling louvers,
or a
> cowl flap. I can not get #3 cht to come down.
> 4. The alternator belt was too long, and even though the pully was not
near
> the cowl, high G loads brought the assy. close enough to start a hole in
the
> cowl. Mainly the pully and the bolt head.
> 5. The handheld GPS in the panel is hard to see. (Lowrance 300). Would go
to
> a palm top or something else.
> 6. There is a druming (sounds like the props are out of sync) that I
belive
> is coming from the panel right behind the exhaust. (with the hinge pin to
no
> where). I think it needs stiffining.
> 7. Need a mirror to see the pax.
> There will be more for sure.
>
> Ed Storo 26 hours and still grinnnnnnnning.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
>Just ask the rv-8-8a people who are flying them now.
>They will be our greatest ally in this so called weak
>wing theory. As I said before stay inside the envelope
>and you will be safe.
>
>Glenn
I'll offer my input as one of the lucky ones mentioned above. ;)
My wings are built per plans, with the hole drilled exactly as specified. I
have yanked and banked my -8 in all kinds of loadings and speeds, with no
problems at all. I normally do not exceed 4G's in sportsman aerobatics. Any
more than this is just bad technique and is hard on engine mounts, seat
upholstery and the pilot!
I have also experienced some very abrupt and downright painful tubulence
excursions that spanned 5 G's...from the negative to the positive. One
episode was GIB induced (guy in back, which I have posted about recently)
and the other was virga. Whoa...that one smacked my knees under the panel
and my head got intimate with the plexi. There is no reason to go to the
magic 6G figure. I've tried to but can't get it to happen. I seem to run out
of aft stick before I get there. I'm not concerned about that at all. The
plane does what I expect it to do, and I trust the airframe.
As long as you don't get ham fisted with the airplane at max cruise speed
while loaded up over aerobatic gross weight, you have NOTHING to worry about
folks. Build them per plans, and enjoy the experience!
Fly safely,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | 4th VA State EAA Fly-In, Petersburg (PTB) |
June 10-11, 2000
4th Annual Virginia State EAA Fly-In will be held at Petersburg
Municipal Airport. Gates open from 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. each day. Airshow
from 1-3 p.m. each day. Static aircraft displays, exhibits and vendors,
youth activities, workshops and tent talks, radio controlled aircraft
demonstrations, Airmobile, pancake breakfast each morning from 8 a.m. -
11 a.m. RV ( the vehicle) and Under the Wing camping (no hookups).
Food service on the field.
See below for more info.
<http://www.vaeaa.org/>
Field closed 12:30 -3:30 for air show.
Richard reynolds,Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
God forbid..but did any of these "tested" wings make it on to the Vans
prototype that failed ? Stress is accumulative . Hopefully someone either
failed the wing by bending it bigtime...or if no visual deformation was evident
they chainsawed it so it woulden't get used........
jah(at)abraxis.com on 06/09/2000 09:04:11 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Weak wing theory
I believe the wings that Van's tested where purchased from a builder who was
selling his/her project.
-Jeff
RV-8 Fuselage Stuff
Atlanta
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:07:03 +1200
>
>glenn williams wrote:
>> Larry this is the best post I have seen to date on the
>> so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are always
>> told that the engineer designed it and the A&P works
>> on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just fly
>> the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
>> g-limits and you will be fine.
>
>That's all very well, assuming there were no mistakes made by the
>designer and/or tester.
>
>On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was that perhaps the
>wings that were tested didn't have this hole drilled... after all, if
>the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to the trouble of fitting a
>pitot tube to it?
>
>Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested *did* have pitot
>tubes fitted at the specified location?
>
>I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but *maybe* there's
>something in it????
>
>Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: ERSF2B(at)aol.com <ERSF2B(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 11:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
>
>Folks,
>I gave my first ride today, (25 hours and 1 minute), and what a difference
in
>handling. The most pronounced are the landing char. The bottom will drop
out
>in a second. Some other things that have cropped up over 25 hours:
>1. Do not put the teflon tape under the wing skin to protect the flap. I
>still have not painted the machine, but the tape is scraching the flap
skin.
Ed: Did you use TFE or the UHMW tape that Van's recommends? Have others had
this problem?
>>4. The alternator belt was too long, and even though the pully was not
near
>the cowl, high G loads brought the assy. close enough to start a hole in
the
>cowl. Mainly the pully and the bolt head.
The second belt recommended by B&C for my 60A alternator and O360A1A was
also slightly too long for my 6A with S-cowl (first was way too long!). The
molded-in circle for optional blister installation is also in the wrong
location to do any good! This seems to be a common problem with RVs.
>
>Ed Storo 26 hours and still grinnnnnnnning.
>
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pushrod question |
I too looked in the RV-4 manual...nothing. I found some helpful data in my RV-8
plans. I purchaced the RV-8 (small binder version) plans set and found the
interveining 15 years (between the RV-4 and RV-8 plans) a great help on the
minutia items and points of detail.... Not there is anything specifically wrong
or bad with RV-4 plans.....I just found the exrta set of plans to throw a
different light on my problem of the day......
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com on 06/08/2000 02:23:31 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Pushrod question
I am installing my control stick and associated push rods. Where would I
find information on properly securing the rod end bearings and jam nuts? I
tried to RTFM but I didn't fund much in the RV-4 manual.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mferrell(at)pstindy.org |
| Subject: | rv4 Flap Arm Covers |
Has anyone had problems with objects getting in the way of the
flap actuating arm located on either side of the rear seat in the rv4?
I have a set of covers that are easy to install and astetically
pleasing. For information and pictures contat mferrell(at)pstindy.org.
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
This is no joke....a elderly lady who flys a Cessna 140 religiously sprays PAM
cooking non-stick spray or her leading edges before every flight. When she
returns she wipes down the leading edges with another application to wet down
and clean the leading edges. She has one of the nicest paint jobs on the field
&
I know her paint to be at least 15 years old.........FWIW
crabaut(at)coalinga.com on 06/08/2000 07:42:31 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleaning Off Bugs
Hi Guys,
I thought I'd throw out my solution... "Turtle Wax's Bug and Tar and
Tree Sap Remover". I'm sure it's not TSOed or STDed or anything, but I've
been using it for several years. It does contain a wax (some sort of
petroleum distillate). It was recommended to me by an Auto Paint Shop guy
and my A&P/IA looked it over and didn't say no... so I gave it a try and I
liked it. If anyone knows of any reason(s) why I shouldn't be using it,
Please by all means let me know.
Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Off Bugs |
Hey!!! That PAM cooking spray is crazy but thats what makes passing info
around so great....I'm going to try that just to see what happens..Came back
from Buffalo,NY yesterday and have a lot of bugs on the edges to work
on...Jim Brown, NJ, 3 & 4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm) |
Which product are you talking about. Loctite is a brand name with many
different products. The threadlocking materials set up in the absence of
air, i.e.... no flumes.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm)
>
>
> Remember to keep the Loctite away from your plexi canopy. The curing
vapors can
> cause crazing in some instances.....
>
>
> Vanremog(at)aol.com on 06/09/2000 12:15:00 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm)
>
>
> In a message dated 6/8/00 11:09:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> stefanking_1999(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> << Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that
> Loctite (tm) (the blue stuff) on nylon locknuts is a
> no-no, as the adhesive attacks the plastic over time,
> thereby compromising the nut's locking capability. >>
>
> IMO this is completely incorrect.
>
> 1. The anaerobic methacrylate resins in Loctite 242 will not attack 6/6
> nylon used in locknuts.
>
> 2. Loctite 242 will supplement the prevailing torque in the nylon locking
> ring by filling the metal threads in the balance of the nut.
>
> 3. Loctite 242 must be reapplied upon removal of the fastener, whereas a
> nyloc can be used a few times without completely losing its locking
> capability.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater Selector/Bypass Box |
When I received the triangular valve I wasn't happy to find that it was aluminum,
so I replaced the flapper and lever with a stainless steel. That way if there is
fire just pull it closed and the steel is exposed to the flames.
Garry RV6 testing electrical system.
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> There as a post a month ago about some AD's on the Aluim. heater boxes on
> certified aircraft. It seems that they melt (sometimes) when there is a cowl
> fire...........I went with the triangle Aluim. ones because of a fit problem
> that the triangles solved.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
The high density poly tape on top or both surfaces would be my choice.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
>
>
> Do you think aluim. to aluim would be better ?? What are you options at
this
> juncture ??
>
>
> cgalley(at)accessus.net on 06/09/2000 09:04:32 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
>
>
> The tape doesn't scratch the flap BUT dirt that easily embeds in the
Teflon
> tape probably does. Teflon is very soft.
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ERSF2B(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 11:34 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
>
>
> >
> > Folks,
> > I gave my first ride today, (25 hours and 1 minute), and what a
difference
> in
> > handling. The most pronounced are the landing char. The bottom will drop
> out
> > in a second. Some other things that have cropped up over 25 hours:
> > 1. Do not put the teflon tape under the wing skin to protect the flap.
I
> > still have not painted the machine, but the tape is scraching the flap
> skin.
> > 2. The square heater box from Vans leaks. And it get very hot inside. I
> would
> > try something else.
> > 3. I am presently flying in MEM, and I will need either cooling louvers,
> or a
> > cowl flap. I can not get #3 cht to come down.
> > 4. The alternator belt was too long, and even though the pully was not
> near
> > the cowl, high G loads brought the assy. close enough to start a hole in
> the
> > cowl. Mainly the pully and the bolt head.
> > 5. The handheld GPS in the panel is hard to see. (Lowrance 300). Would
go
> to
> > a palm top or something else.
> > 6. There is a druming (sounds like the props are out of sync) that I
> belive
> > is coming from the panel right behind the exhaust. (with the hinge pin
to
> no
> > where). I think it needs stiffining.
> > 7. Need a mirror to see the pax.
> > There will be more for sure.
> >
> > Ed Storo 26 hours and still grinnnnnnnning.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
I used heavy clear packing tape on the bottom side of the wing skin. It
works great, no problems in 85+ hrs. You need to clean this area and
lightly sand w/400 to make sure it is really smooth in this area before the
instalation of the tape. Karl 711KN RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: pcondon(at)csc.com [SMTP:pcondon(at)csc.com]
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 09:11
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
Do you think aluim. to aluim would be better ?? What are you options at
this
juncture ??
: http://www.matronics.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Antenna placement |
Same for me. I figured I needed less coax hookup wire and it was just plane
easier for me to hook it up there. I got my antennas from the aircraft salvage
yard for 15$ apiece...they are the standard stainless rods that most spam cans
use.....
k_schilling(at)iquest.net on 06/09/2000 09:06:11 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Antenna placement
Jim I have mine right in the center under the cowling on my RV-8 it works
great! Karl
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Nolan [SMTP:JimNolan(at)kconline.com]
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 05:17
Subject: RV-List: Antenna placement
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave <dhrycauk(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
I could be wrong, but IMHO I would not think that the flanges on the wing
spar contribute "that" much to the wing load carrying capabilities. I think
of the wing spar much the same as an "I" beam or a floor truss in a house,
the vertical section of the spar holds the vast majority of the vertical
wing load. The flanges are their for attachments to the spar and some
rigitity on the horizontal axis. Now if we were to cut holes in the vertical
section of the spar, we would be acking for trouble. Just my thoughts on
the subject, I am no aeronautical engineer.
Dave Hrycauk
RV-8 80972 (Wings)
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/dhrycauk/index.htm
Lacombe, Alberta
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
> glenn williams wrote:
> > Larry this is the best post I have seen to date on the
> > so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are always
> > told that the engineer designed it and the A&P works
> > on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just fly
> > the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
> > g-limits and you will be fine.
>
> That's all very well, assuming there were no mistakes made by the
> designer and/or tester.
>
> On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was that perhaps the
> wings that were tested didn't have this hole drilled... after all, if
> the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to the trouble of fitting a
> pitot tube to it?
>
> Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested *did* have pitot
> tubes fitted at the specified location?
>
> I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but *maybe* there's
> something in it????
>
> Frank.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
I used stainless steel tape on the flap itself and the
steel tape will looked scratched but will not hurt
your aluminum wing skin
Glenn
--- Karl Schilling wrote:
>
>
>
> I used heavy clear packing tape on the bottom side
> of the wing skin. It
> works great, no problems in 85+ hrs. You need to
> clean this area and
> lightly sand w/400 to make sure it is really smooth
> in this area before the
> instalation of the tape. Karl 711KN RV-8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pcondon(at)csc.com [SMTP:pcondon(at)csc.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 09:11
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 #80620
>
>
>
> Do you think aluim. to aluim would be better ?? What
> are you options at
> this
> juncture ??
>
>
> : http://www.matronics.com/
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna placement |
> I have mine right in the center under the cowling on my RV-8 it works
great!
While this certainly works fine, why would you want to take yet another wire
forward of the firewall? Wouldn't the glareshield make for a more
serviceable location?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, fwf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Week wing theory |
I was present during one phase of the testing. The loading of the wing was
done under FAA supervision. The wing was loaded to simulate both straight G
loads as well as twisting. In the test that I witnessed the wing was taken
to 9 + and then unloaded.
I can honestly say that I would not have been concerned to take it around
the patch after this test. I guess if you try hard enough you can break
anything.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
thanks Brian
Glenn
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >Just ask the rv-8-8a people who are flying them
> now.
> >They will be our greatest ally in this so called
> weak
> >wing theory. As I said before stay inside the
> envelope
> >and you will be safe.
> >
> >Glenn
>
>
> I'll offer my input as one of the lucky ones
> mentioned above. ;)
> My wings are built per plans, with the hole drilled
> exactly as specified. I
> have yanked and banked my -8 in all kinds of
> loadings and speeds, with no
> problems at all. I normally do not exceed 4G's in
> sportsman aerobatics. Any
> more than this is just bad technique and is hard on
> engine mounts, seat
> upholstery and the pilot!
>
> I have also experienced some very abrupt and
> downright painful tubulence
> excursions that spanned 5 G's...from the negative to
> the positive. One
> episode was GIB induced (guy in back, which I have
> posted about recently)
> and the other was virga. Whoa...that one smacked my
> knees under the panel
> and my head got intimate with the plexi. There is
> no reason to go to the
> magic 6G figure. I've tried to but can't get it to
> happen. I seem to run out
> of aft stick before I get there. I'm not concerned
> about that at all. The
> plane does what I expect it to do, and I trust the
> airframe.
>
> As long as you don't get ham fisted with the
> airplane at max cruise speed
> while loaded up over aerobatic gross weight, you
> have NOTHING to worry about
> folks. Build them per plans, and enjoy the
> experience!
>
> Fly safely,
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
the two witnessess said the airplane was flying
straight and level before the wing departed the
aircraft. I would assume that the airplane was
positive g loaded. Another thing that strikes me as
odd was the electrical trim was in the (if memory
serves me right)full nose down position. I assume due
to people in the back seat with no experience flying
these aircraft was to give them some poundage on the
stick because of light forces needed to control the
airplane. i.e. artificial feel. That said the airplane
was simply overstressed past it's design limits.
Glenn
--- Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> I'm only going to add one thought here....from an
> engineer who used to do
> life testing. One static test, using carefully
> applied sandbags is hardly a
> realistic test of the environment these wings spend
> their life in. I've
> never experienced turbulance that is carefully,
> slowly applied. Most
> aerobatics by amateurs are probably less than smooth
> as well. As far as the
> aircraft that broke, I would assume the rear
> passenger pulled on the stick
> at cruise....and the front passenger just sat
> there??? No, I think
> not....he likely pushed back....making the wings do
> a flap like move which
> is a totally different kind of stress than a bunch
> of sandbags laid on it
> with care. I would be very interested to know if
> that particular wing
> departed under positive or negative G
> loading........
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank and Dorothy" <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 2:07 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Weak wing theory
>
>
>
> >
> > glenn williams wrote:
> > > Larry this is the best post I have seen to date
> on the
> > > so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are
> always
> > > told that the engineer designed it and the A&P
> works
> > > on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just
> fly
> > > the airplane in it's envelope and stay within
> the
> > > g-limits and you will be fine.
> >
> > That's all very well, assuming there were no
> mistakes made by the
> > designer and/or tester.
> >
> > On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was
> that perhaps the
> > wings that were tested didn't have this hole
> drilled... after all, if
> > the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to
> the trouble of fitting a
> > pitot tube to it?
> >
> > Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested
> *did* have pitot
> > tubes fitted at the specified location?
> >
> > I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but
> *maybe* there's
> > something in it????
> >
> > Frank.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Petri" <dpetri(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
Bill,
To partially answer your question on whether the plane departed with a
positive or negative load, the NTSB report found that the main spar had
evidence of a ductile fracture due to a positive overload.
Hope this helps,
Dave
RV-6 Preview Plans (Still waiting for the wifely nod...)
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Weak wing theory
I'm only going to add one thought here....from an engineer who used to do
life testing. One static test, using carefully applied sandbags is hardly a
realistic test of the environment these wings spend their life in. I've
never experienced turbulance that is carefully, slowly applied. Most
aerobatics by amateurs are probably less than smooth as well. As far as the
aircraft that broke, I would assume the rear passenger pulled on the stick
at cruise....and the front passenger just sat there??? No, I think
not....he likely pushed back....making the wings do a flap like move which
is a totally different kind of stress than a bunch of sandbags laid on it
with care. I would be very interested to know if that particular wing
departed under positive or negative G loading........
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank and Dorothy" <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 2:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Weak wing theory
>
> glenn williams wrote:
> > Larry this is the best post I have seen to date on the
> > so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are always
> > told that the engineer designed it and the A&P works
> > on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just fly
> > the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
> > g-limits and you will be fine.
>
> That's all very well, assuming there were no mistakes made by the
> designer and/or tester.
>
> On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was that perhaps the
> wings that were tested didn't have this hole drilled... after all, if
> the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to the trouble of fitting a
> pitot tube to it?
>
> Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested *did* have pitot
> tubes fitted at the specified location?
>
> I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but *maybe* there's
> something in it????
>
> Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Concerning the flap tape; I had two choices, flap or wing skin. In theory
there should b no difference. Most definetly do not use alum to alum. It will
scrach. So as not to reinvent the wheelI suggest one use the tape on flap
process.
Ed Storo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
>airplane. i.e. artificial feel. That said the airplane
>was simply overstressed past it's design limits.
I don't subscribe to this whole "we need to redesign the wing theory". I
believe that if you fly the 8 within the design envelope that your going to be
ok. Heck I know of folks that go out weekly and do acro in their 8 with no
problems what so ever.
This is my question. If I'm giving someone a ride and were flying along a cruse
with my Navaid at the controls and suddenly my passenger gets a hold of the
control stick and jerks it back as far as it can go that we are both going to
die?
Just asking because if this is the case, I'm removing the rear control stick and
throwing it in the trash. The last thing I need is a self-destruct stick with
in reach of my passenger.
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finish )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
guys understand that the rv-8 8a wing is the first
engineered wing to fly on a vans airplane. They have
it down to a science at where the wing will break at a
certain load condition. That is why the g-load is +6
and -3 with ultimate load factors higher at +9 and -6
one time. as stated before I think we are beating a
dead horse here. Just stay in the envelope
Glenn
--- pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> God forbid..but did any of these "tested" wings
> make it on to the Vans
> prototype that failed ? Stress is accumulative .
> Hopefully someone either
> failed the wing by bending it bigtime...or if no
> visual deformation was evident
> they chainsawed it so it woulden't get used........
>
>
> jah(at)abraxis.com on 06/09/2000 09:04:11 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Weak wing theory
>
>
>
>
> I believe the wings that Van's tested where
> purchased from a builder who was
> selling his/her project.
>
> -Jeff
> RV-8 Fuselage Stuff
> Atlanta
>
> ---------- Original Message
> ----------------------------------
> From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
> Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 18:07:03 +1200
>
>
> >
> >glenn williams wrote:
> >> Larry this is the best post I have seen to date
> on the
> >> so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are
> always
> >> told that the engineer designed it and the A&P
> works
> >> on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just
> fly
> >> the airplane in it's envelope and stay within the
> >> g-limits and you will be fine.
> >
> >That's all very well, assuming there were no
> mistakes made by the
> >designer and/or tester.
> >
> >On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was
> that perhaps the
> >wings that were tested didn't have this hole
> drilled... after all, if
> >the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to the
> trouble of fitting a
> >pitot tube to it?
> >
> >Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested
> *did* have pitot
> >tubes fitted at the specified location?
> >
> >I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but
> *maybe* there's
> >something in it????
> >
> >Frank.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell mounting |
>2. When bolting up the prop, should the O-ring in the prop hub be
>pre-lubricated with anything? The choices seem to be a) nothing, 2) engine
>oil, or 3) Dow Corning DC-4 which is used on the engine oil filter.
It has been a long time ago that I mounted my prop. I don't recall a 'O' ring.
I have noticed a faint black streaks on the starter wheel. I know I didn't
lube any 'O' ring on the prop. Where is it located? I am assuming it is
between the starter ring and the hub, is that correct?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
> This is my question. If I'm giving someone a ride and were flying along a
cruse
> with my Navaid at the controls and suddenly my passenger gets a hold of
the
> control stick and jerks it back as far as it can go that we are both going
to
> die?
Yes, if you are at 200mph and the rear passenger touches his groin with the
stick....I do believe you're going for a vertical ride resulting in a hole
about the size of your engine. You will make less of a dent in the ground,
but you will never see it.
Here's hoping that never happens.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
> Just asking because if this is the case, I'm removing the rear control stick
and
> throwing it in the trash. The last thing I need is a self-destruct stick with
> in reach of my passenger.
>
> Thx,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8AQ ( finish )
> N89JA (reserved)
Start making room in the trash Jim :-) I installed mine with a quick release
pin. Clearly, there
are people you can trust, and people you can't. If you have any doubts about the
GIB, just do them
a "favor" by getting that stick out of their way.
Russell (ain't no weak wing on my plane) Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (flying 5hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Fri,
09 Jun 2000 14:31:14.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
Well shoot glen, since you laughed at my little post I guess I'll hold off on my
"Veriprimes for sissies idea". Maybe I can lay a smoke screen about the benefits
of square bolt holes. I'll bet someone will pipe up with some supporting data.
Keep building
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm) |
Your right, Loctite is a brand name not a specific item per-say. I've read to
many urban legends on " liquid thread additives that disallow bolt movement "
- no mater what the name is .....that have caused craizing to be around my
canopy that I've spent many hours on.......
cgalley(at)accessus.net on 06/09/2000 10:41:04 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm)
Which product are you talking about. Loctite is a brand name with many
different products. The threadlocking materials set up in the absence of
air, i.e.... no flumes.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm)
>
>
> Remember to keep the Loctite away from your plexi canopy. The curing
vapors can
> cause crazing in some instances.....
>
>
> Vanremog(at)aol.com on 06/09/2000 12:15:00 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Control Problems/Loctite (tm)
>
>
> In a message dated 6/8/00 11:09:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> stefanking_1999(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> << Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that
> Loctite (tm) (the blue stuff) on nylon locknuts is a
> no-no, as the adhesive attacks the plastic over time,
> thereby compromising the nut's locking capability. >>
>
> IMO this is completely incorrect.
>
> 1. The anaerobic methacrylate resins in Loctite 242 will not attack 6/6
> nylon used in locknuts.
>
> 2. Loctite 242 will supplement the prevailing torque in the nylon locking
> ring by filling the metal threads in the balance of the nut.
>
> 3. Loctite 242 must be reapplied upon removal of the fastener, whereas a
> nyloc can be used a few times without completely losing its locking
> capability.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory |
the two witnessess said the airplane was flying
straight and level before the wing departed the
aircraft. I would assume that the airplane was
positive g loaded. Another thing that strikes me as
odd was the electrical trim was in the (if memory
serves me right)full nose down position. I assume due
to people in the back seat with no experience flying
these aircraft was to give them some poundage on the
stick because of light forces needed to control the
airplane. i.e. artificial feel. That said the airplane
was simply overstressed past it's design limits.
Glenn
--- Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> I'm only going to add one thought here....from an
> engineer who used to do
> life testing. One static test, using carefully
> applied sandbags is hardly a
> realistic test of the environment these wings spend
> their life in. I've
> never experienced turbulance that is carefully,
> slowly applied. Most
> aerobatics by amateurs are probably less than smooth
> as well. As far as the
> aircraft that broke, I would assume the rear
> passenger pulled on the stick
> at cruise....and the front passenger just sat
> there??? No, I think
> not....he likely pushed back....making the wings do
> a flap like move which
> is a totally different kind of stress than a bunch
> of sandbags laid on it
> with care. I would be very interested to know if
> that particular wing
> departed under positive or negative G
> loading........
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank and Dorothy" <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 2:07 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Weak wing theory
>
>
>
> >
> > glenn williams wrote:
> > > Larry this is the best post I have seen to date
> on the
> > > so called weak wing theory. As an A&P we are
> always
> > > told that the engineer designed it and the A&P
> works
> > > on it. In other words leave it alone guys. Just
> fly
> > > the airplane in it's envelope and stay within
> the
> > > g-limits and you will be fine.
> >
> > That's all very well, assuming there were no
> mistakes made by the
> > designer and/or tester.
> >
> > On reading this, a thought that occurred to me was
> that perhaps the
> > wings that were tested didn't have this hole
> drilled... after all, if
> > the wing isn't going to actually fly, why go to
> the trouble of fitting a
> > pitot tube to it?
> >
> > Can anyone confirm that the wings that Vans tested
> *did* have pitot
> > tubes fitted at the specified location?
> >
> > I'm not into fanning this particular flame, but
> *maybe* there's
> > something in it????
> >
> > Frank.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Weak wing theory/Self-Destruct Stick |
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
> snip
> This is my question. If I'm giving someone a ride and were flying along a cruse
> with my Navaid at the controls and suddenly my passenger gets a hold of the
> control stick and jerks it back as far as it can go that we are both going to
> die?
>
> Just asking because if this is the case, I'm removing the rear control stick
and
> throwing it in the trash. The last thing I need is a self-destruct stick with
> in reach of my passenger.
>
> Thx,
>
June 05, 2000 - June 09, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-iq