RV-Archive.digest.vol-it
June 20, 2000 - June 27, 2000
Because of this, and after thinking about it all day when I was supposed to
be working, I decided to put a washer in between the motor mount and the
engine boss on the top mount to eliminate the positive thrust angle. Ken was
fairly neutral on the issue and said that indeed it may add a bit of
efficiency, but the difference would be small. Well, if it is going to be
addressed it needs to be now before I mount my cowl, so tonight we jacked up
the engine and put the washers in. (note that the plans call for TWO small
washers under the nut, so just leave one off which compensates for the added
thickness of the large washer). After getting everything perfectly level
again the SmartLevel can't make up it's mind between 0.0 and +0.1 degrees of
thrust angle. Yahoo, now if I end up getting 3/16" sag this should translate
into about negative .1-.2 degree thrust angle. This is undoubtedly splitting
very very small hairs, but this should optimize the thrust angle and keep it
from cruising tail low, especially with Bubba in the back seat.
In the final analysis I do not recommend that other builders worry about
this. If you think about it an O-320 with a wood prop will only sag 1/8-1/4"
and will end up with a small positive thrust angle. Yet those IO-360 with
c/s prop installs will sag the most at maybe 1/4-9/32" and end up at zero.
They will all fly fine, but I at least feel better knowing that my thrust
angle is as close to zero as is possible, undoubtedly a product of my
compulsive nature. Also, this way if it sags more than anticipated I can
remove the washers fairly easily later.
Just think, now when I'm cruising along at 201 mph I can fool myself into
thinking that that extra mph came from inserting the washer!
;-)
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, fwf
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF (remember, fly-in this saturday)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: packing list |
Gary & Tena -
Congratulations on your new project :-)
Take the time to inventory every part and check it off on the packing list.
Van's is real good about sending complete kits - but - there are a lot of
parts in an airplane and it is easy to over look some while picking your
order. Keep the bagged goods together as they will be used on each assembly.
Find a home for the rest of the parts and mark on the packing slip where
you hid the parts around your shop. This will save a lot of time in the
future when you are searching for that part "your sure" you put in the
cupboard or under the bench.
Have fun and involve your family. It is a real BIG project with a high
learning curve. You will aquire a lot if information and friends as your
project 'grows' into and airplane.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary & Tena Strong" <gstrong(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 9:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: packing list
>
> I just received my qb6A Friday and finished the unpacking today. I
started
> trying to check off the parts against the packing list, but as slow as it
is
> going, I'll eat up my 2000 hrs on the packing list check alone. Is there
> some trick to this (it
> doesn't seem in any numerical or alpha order)? Do most of you not bother
> and trust that nothing was missed, or do you spend the time to go over
each
> item? What is the frequency that there are parts missing that the packing
> list shows as shipped?
>
> - Gary S. - just barely out of the crate.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: packing list |
Gary, take the time to completely inventory your kit. Not only will you
catch any missing parts (very disgusting to discover the flap torque
tube is missing when you need it to hook up the flaps on your way to the
airport...) but you will "learn" the kit as well. I recommend you get a
bunch of the little chests with the clear plastic drawers and sort all
the hardware according to size and nomenclature. This will save you
hours in the future.
The hours spent now will pay off later!
Good luck,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with new electric flaps!)
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
======================
Gary & Tena Strong wrote:
>
>
> I just received my qb6A Friday and finished the unpacking today. I started
> trying to check off the parts against the packing list, but as slow as it is
> going, I'll eat up my 2000 hrs on the packing list check alone. Is there
> some trick to this (it
> doesn't seem in any numerical or alpha order)? Do most of you not bother
> and trust that nothing was missed, or do you spend the time to go over each
> item? What is the frequency that there are parts missing that the packing
> list shows as shipped?
>
> - Gary S. - just barely out of the crate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Reminder: Northwest RV Fly-In |
Just a reminder to be sure not to miss the Ninth Annual Northwest RV Fly-In!
Place: Scappoose Airport (SPB), Scappoose, OR
Date: June 24, 2000 (this Saturday!)
Time: 10:00-4:00
We'll have food, seminars, vendors, flying, fun!
Get all the details at http://www.edt.com/homewing/flyin00.html
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Prop Type |
Two questions:
I am planning on using a constant speed prop on my 180 horse IO360
equipped RV-4. Looking at the Hartzell web site there are two models
recommended: a 68" dia. prop that is a "new design (1995)", and the 72" that
Van's sells. Does anyone have any experience with the 68" prop? According
to the literature if is supposed to allow higher cruise speed by having a
higher max. pitch than the 72" prop.
Also on the Hartzell web site it states that for the 72" prop, "For this
propeller model on the IO-360-B 180 HP series engine: "Avoid continuous
operations between 2000 and 2250 rpm. If the engine has crankshaft dampers,
there are no restrictions on the propeller from 74" to 72" diameters".
What do they mean by crankshaft dampers? Are these the harmonic
balancers/flywheels I have seen fitted to some planes with wood props?
Thanks,
Ted
RV-4 laying out the wiring harness
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: packing list |
>
>I just received my qb6A Friday and finished the unpacking today. I started
>trying to check off the parts against the packing list, but as slow as it is
>going, I'll eat up my 2000 hrs on the packing list check alone. Is there
>some trick to this (it
>doesn't seem in any numerical or alpha order)? Do most of you not bother
>and trust that nothing was missed, or do you spend the time to go over each
>item? What is the frequency that there are parts missing that the packing
>list shows as shipped?
>
>- Gary S. - just barely out of the crate.
>
It is worth spending the time to inventory the stuff. I've found a
couple of small items missing, one RV-8A part instead of an RV-8 one,
and two parts that were damaged. By finding the problems now, you
ensure that the replacement parts arrive well before you need them.
I'm not sure what the best way to deal with the sea of little bags
is. They are obviously intended for various subassemblies, but it is
a real trick figuring out which bag is meant for which part. I ended
up getting several cabinets with little drawers, and sorting
everything that way. e.g. all the AN5158R8 screws went in one
drawer, instead of being split up between 25 bags.
It does get better :-)
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Posted for archive searching.....
Guess I'll jump in.
Have pondered a few weeks what makes so many say the RV-8 spar goes "only a
few inches into the fuselage". Actual fact is that they go all the way
thru, just like the RV-6. The difference is that instead of being joined in
the middle, there are two joints nearer the fuselage walls on the RV-8. The
804 bulkhead is a massive and well engineered structure with the main
components being the same thickness as the (milled) spar bars. When you get
to OSH, take a look at the QB (I'm sure Van will have it there again).
You'll see right away what I mean.
Ed Jungst
Glenwood, MN
RV-6 with 569 flying hrs
RV-8 (called inspector Monday)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Using parts drawers (was packing list) |
> ***snip***
> Just store the parts by their number and
> forget which bag they came in. On the plans and manual parts are
identified
> by number anyway.
> 3. I, too, use the small plastic drawers for storing parts. I locate all
> bolts together (AN3's, then by length, AN4's, then by length, etc.), all
> washers together, all nuts together, etc. etc. etc. I now find getting a
> part is fast . . . and I can readily tell when I'm getting down to a low
> "inventory" and may need to order something.
***snip**
Here's another method for storing your parts in the little plastic drawers
that has worked well for me:
First, during the process of inventorying the parts bags, I write down the
part number and what type of part it is such as a bolt, nut, etc.. This
information is entered into an Excel spreadsheet. The first column is the
DRAWER NUMBER which starts at 1 then 2 then 3 and so on. The next column
has the PART NUMBER and the next column has the PART DESCRIPTION. Sort the
spreadsheet by PART DESCRIPTION and print it out. Next, make little
numbered labels for the drawers and number them left to right...1,2,3, etc..
Look at the spreadsheet and put the parts with drawer number 1 in drawer 1
and so on.
When you need bolt, look at the spreadsheet in the parts description column
and the bolts are listed all toghether. Find the one you need under the
PART NUMBER column and it will tell you the DRAWER NUMBER it is in.
Where this is really helpful is when the next kit arrives(if you are not
lucky enough to get a QB). Some of the drawers will now be empty because
the parts were used on the previous kit. Just make note of the empty
drawers on the spreadsheet and put parts in them from the kit that just
arrived. Re-sort the spreadsheet by parts description again, print it out,
and you're ready to go! There's no peeling off and replacing labels on the
drawers or having to reorganize the drawers because there's not enought room
to get all of a particular type part(such as bolts) all grouped together in
the same area of the parts bin.
Take's a little extra time to get set up, but hunting parts is a snap which
more than makes up for it.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FMBLVTOFLY(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RV-8 FUSELAGE SIZE |
I HAVE TWO RV-8 QUICK BUILD FUSELAGES IN MY HANGER. THEY MEASURE 36 1/2
INCHES TOTAL WIDTH AND 36 1/2 INCHES HIGH WITHOUT THE CANOPY OR THE
WINDSHIELD AND SUPPORT BAR INSTALLED. WITH THE WINDSHIELD AND SUPPORT BAR
INSTALLED, IT IS 46 1/2 INCHES HIGH. I HOPE THIS IS SOME HELP TO YOU.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: packing list |
I spent several evenings inventorying my QB kit. I emptied the common parts
bags into plastic compartmented boxes about 9 x 12 inches. Prefer the ones
with fixed compartments as the moveable ones seem to hop out when the tiny
parts are in mixing rivets together etc. Avoid the drawer boxes as pulling
them in and out wastes a lot of time. With the compartmented boxes, you can
see at a glance what you want.
I used boxes like this:
RIVETS
BOLTS
SCREWS
ELECTRICAL
PLUMBING
COMPLETED PARTS (including ones I make up)
DRILL BITS etc
DIES & SMALL TOOLS
Once the wings are on, I put some soft cloth on each wing and lined the
boxes up along the wing. I also laid frequently used tools on the cloth -
except one of my several chuck keys which is in my pocket. I sometimes have
put two items in one compartment. Bolts are arranged by length but all
diameters are in the same compartment as they are easily selected. That is,
in one compartment are AN3-12 and AN4-12 and AN5-12. Washers in with bolts,
platenuts with screws. Whatever makes sense for you!
As you work, think about the tasks you have to perform and what they add to
the finished product. How much is added by the 31 seconds you spent trying
to find sack # 949 or opening and closing drawers? Just like added weight,
added seconds add up.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
To do list getting very short!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall hole covers |
> My stand off bracket for the Throttle/mixture has a non-bent flange just
> sticking out.
> Looks like I need to bolt about 3 inches more bracket & turn down 90
> degrees for the mixture.
Sounds like you have the telescoping end type cable (CT Red Vmixture), not
the "lawnmower" cable for your mixture, right? The new O-360 bracket extends
a lot further back and has a reinforced, turned down tab and hole for that
cable. If you have an O-320 I think they still just have the old style
bracket though so in that case you'd be stuck with some sort of extension.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 FUSELAGE SIZE |
Do you know if the gear can be temporarily installed while fitting the
engine, then removed to make the fuselage smaller to fit through hole in the
wall?
Yes, the gear legs come off the -8 by removing 1 bolt and loosing 4 more on each
side. Just don't install the break and fuel lines untill you get it out, as
they will damage easy. By the way don't tell anyone your planning on putting
a hole in the wall to get the airplane you built out, you might end up getting
chassed by men in white coats... Don't ask.
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
-8 hanging engine, still in the basement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: packing list |
Gary,
You need to spend the time and go over it completely. During the inventory
of my -8AQB I found several things that were wrong and a couple of things
that really raised questions. Van's has beenvery good about fixing the goofs
but after a certain time they will not cover the
shipping. So spend the time now.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Patience my as*, I want to fly
>From: "Gary & Tena Strong" <gstrong(at)uswest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List"
>Subject: RV-List: packing list
>Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 22:59:09 -0500
>
>
>I just received my qb6A Friday and finished the unpacking today. I started
>trying to check off the parts against the packing list, but as slow as it
>is
>going, I'll eat up my 2000 hrs on the packing list check alone. Is there
>some trick to this (it
>doesn't seem in any numerical or alpha order)? Do most of you not bother
>and trust that nothing was missed, or do you spend the time to go over each
>item? What is the frequency that there are parts missing that the packing
>list shows as shipped?
>
>- Gary S. - just barely out of the crate.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixture & Throttle Brackets |
Mixture and Throttle cable repost. Talked about in the "firewall hole
covers" chat thread.
randallh(at)home.com on 05/21/2000 11:44:06 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: firewall hole covers
> My stand off bracket for the Throttle/mixture has a non-bent flange just
> sticking out.
> Looks like I need to bolt about 3 inches more bracket & turn down 90
> degrees for the mixture.
Sounds like you have the telescoping end type cable (CT Red Vmixture), not
the "lawnmower" cable for your mixture, right? The new O-360 bracket extends
a lot further back and has a reinforced, turned down tab and hole for that
cable. If you have an O-320 I think they still just have the old style
bracket though so in that case you'd be stuck with some sort of extension.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Ted,
Crankshaft Dampeners are actually a part of the engine's crankshaft and are
internal to the engine. For example an IO360-A1A has not internal
crankshaft dampeners but the IO-360A1B6 has them. They are the same engine
for all intent and purposed except for the crankshaft. The section in the
Van's manual on engines and props has a pretty good table that will tell you
wht you have.
I may be off base here on the prop but my thoughts are that the engine will
have to work a bit harder with the shorter prop, thus using more fuel, and
possibly wearing out faster. An old time mech once told me years ago that
you should always put the largest diameter prop that your engine/aircraft
will handle then adjust the pitch to get the right RPM. Obviously, with a
constant speed prop the pitch is irrevelent but the first part still holds
true. FWIW and IMHO I would go with the larger prop.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 00:35:07 -0700
>
>
>Two questions:
>
> I am planning on using a constant speed prop on my 180 horse IO360
>equipped RV-4. Looking at the Hartzell web site there are two models
>recommended: a 68" dia. prop that is a "new design (1995)", and the 72"
>that
>Van's sells. Does anyone have any experience with the 68" prop? According
>to the literature if is supposed to allow higher cruise speed by having a
>higher max. pitch than the 72" prop.
>
> Also on the Hartzell web site it states that for the 72" prop, "For
>this
>propeller model on the IO-360-B 180 HP series engine: "Avoid continuous
>operations between 2000 and 2250 rpm. If the engine has crankshaft
>dampers,
>there are no restrictions on the propeller from 74" to 72" diameters".
>What do they mean by crankshaft dampers? Are these the harmonic
>balancers/flywheels I have seen fitted to some planes with wood props?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ted
>RV-4 laying out the wiring harness
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Ted,
Crankshaft Dampeners are actually a part of the engine's crankshaft and are
internal to the engine. For example an IO360-A1A has not internal
crankshaft dampeners but the IO-360A1B6 has them. They are the same engine
for all intent and purpose except for the crankshaft. The section in the
Van's manual on engines and props has a pretty good table that will tell you
what you have.
I may be off base here on the prop but my thoughts are that the engine will
have to work a bit harder with the shorter prop, thus using more fuel, and
possibly wearing out faster. An old time mech once told me years ago that
you should always put the largest diameter prop that your engine/aircraft
will handle then adjust the pitch to get the right RPM. Obviously, with a
constant speed prop the pitch is irrevelent but the first part still holds
true. FWIW and IMHO I would go with the larger prop.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 00:35:07 -0700
>
>
>Two questions:
>
> I am planning on using a constant speed prop on my 180 horse IO360
>equipped RV-4. Looking at the Hartzell web site there are two models
>recommended: a 68" dia. prop that is a "new design (1995)", and the 72"
>that
>Van's sells. Does anyone have any experience with the 68" prop? According
>to the literature if is supposed to allow higher cruise speed by having a
>higher max. pitch than the 72" prop.
>
> Also on the Hartzell web site it states that for the 72" prop, "For
>this
>propeller model on the IO-360-B 180 HP series engine: "Avoid continuous
>operations between 2000 and 2250 rpm. If the engine has crankshaft
>dampers,
>there are no restrictions on the propeller from 74" to 72" diameters".
>What do they mean by crankshaft dampers? Are these the harmonic
>balancers/flywheels I have seen fitted to some planes with wood props?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ted
>RV-4 laying out the wiring harness
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Odyssey Battery, Contactor locations |
Tip:
I purchased the Odyssey PC 680 battery from the local Batteries Plus. see
http://www.batteriesplus.com
This is the same battery that is in Van's Accessory catalog, but priced at
$124.88.
They also have the PC 625 which is 13.2 pounds for $99.
The 680 is 14.7 pounds, compared to a Concord RG25 I have that weighs 25
pounds.
Size for the PC680 is 7.28"L, 3.125"W, 6.35"H
Size for the PC625 is 6.75"L, 3.9"W, 6.9"H
Question:
I am trying to determine the best place to install the contactors and
battery cable penetrations of both the battery box and firewall. I have
Electric Bob's ground block, so the neg. cable will go to that on the inside
for pass through to engine side.
Those that have been there on a RV6A with O360, what works best?
What should I avoid?
The Archives have been searched and I kind of like the back to back mounting
of battery and starter solenoids on the firewall, with the battery contactor
inside.
Thanks
Dave Biddle
RV6A
Phoenix, AZ.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Initial Flight Testing Report |
Fellow Builders/Flyers,
I now have a little over 7 hours on my airplane and I thought I'd provide
folks with a recap of how things are going and what I've found. This is a
long post, so if interest wains, hit the delete key.
My first five flights have been limited to engine reliability and basic
flight control checks. My Aerosport Power O-320 has performed flawlessly.
So far, it's gulped about 1/2 quart of mineral oil. Fuel consumption has
been consistent at 10.5 GPH at full throttle (2600 RPM and full rich). I'm
using the Sensenich fixed metal prop so I'm limited to 2600 RPM max. I pull
about 2200 static and it maxs out right at 2600 RPM in level flight at full
throttle. Oil temperatures are higher than normal but within limits. I
plan to open up the size of my oil cooler opening in my left rear baffle to
allow more air to flow through the cooler. I think it is a little
undersized. CHT's are terrific and well down in the green.
Instruments have worked flawlessly. I did adjust my vacuum regulator so
that I pull a full 5" of Hg. Airspeed calibration has shown that my True
Airspeed Indicator shows about 3-4 KTS slow at full throttle at 6000'. I
used the TAS calulator from Kevin Horton's web site and I am consistently
getting TAS at full throttle of around 160 KTS. Additional calibrations at
2300 RPM and 2000 RPM show a consistent 3-4 KTS slower than actual TAS.
Takeoffs are now routine. I've made minor adjustments to both ailerons to
get them to trail properly in flight. This plus an adjustment to the
aileron trim linkage corrected an initial right wing heavy condition. I
need a little right rudder to hold the ball in the center. Eventually, I'll
play with different size wedges for the elevator but for now, I just keep a
little pressure on the right rudder pedal. The incidence on my horizontal
stabilizer must not be just right. My elevators trail slightly down in
level flight. I shimmed .050 under the front attachments but it didn't seem
to help. If I shim much more, my emmpenage fairing is not going to fit
properly. I will wait until after AirVenture to figure out what to do. I
have both electric elevator and electric aileron trims and I use the MAC
speed controller and MAC grips. I like them a lot. I have the speed
controller set as slow as it will go and the sensitivity is about right.
Just a quick touch of the buttons on top of the stick and I can trim hands
off in a few seconds. Landings are not bad but I never know what I'm going
to get. I usually manage a skip or two. I'm still just a little slow on
the flare. I use 70 KTS in the pattern with 20 degrees of flaps. I shoot
for 65KTS to 60 KTS over the numbers.
I'll reinforce what I've said before, this thing is a blast to fly. Climbs
like a banshee. Once you push the nose over and level off, she's like a ski
boat getting up on the step. She starts to unwind and the airspeed
indicator moves up quickly. I've found the visibility in the slider to be
very good and you really don't notice the center bar much. I was a little
worried about that but it hasn't turned out to be a big deal. I do love the
Lightspeed X25 headsets and wouldn't fly without them. Inside noise is
nonexistent. Just for kicks, I took them off the last time I was up and I
couldn't believe the noise level.
About the only things I'd do differently is my placement of the engine
instruments. I have a picture of my panel on my web site. Since they are
on the right side, they are not easy to see in flight. They need to be
canted towards the pilot. I'd take a serious look at the panel that Laird
Owens offers and maybe use it. Also, I can see the future need for a single
axis or double axis autopilot. Not that it's touchy or anything, but a
quick look down at the GPS or chart can result in a fairly quick divergence
from level flight, especially if not trimmed properly.
As for the rest of my flight testing, I'm following written test plans that
I've gleaned from AC: 90-89A AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT AND ULTRALIGHT FLIGHT
TESTING HANDBOOK. I have flight plans documented step-by-step in WORD 97
from pre-flight through landing for each flight. As I execute the flight
plans, I've been updating them to make them even more usable. When I'm
done, I'll ask Doug Reeves to post them on his great web site so that others
can benefit from them if they'd like.
This is way too much for now, but I have a hard time not talking too much
about my new airplane. I'm having a blast. I hope to be at Airventure
Thursday through Saturday, so please stop by and introduce yourself to me if
you get a chance.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (7.5 hours)
Indianapolis, IN (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Prop Type |
I believe the 68" prop is the scimitar (sp?) compact hub unit that was developed
for Lancairs with ground clearance problems...a while back Van's tested this
prop on an RV-4 and found that it slowed the airplane down by a few mph. Hartzell
has to bump up the pitch to make up for the loss in area. The only gains
by going to a shorter prop are less noise and better ground clearance. Generally
shorter props decrease performance. The same goes for the three-bladed
props; in fact, a local RV-8A driver removed his three-blade and replaced it with
the old-fashioned two-blade to get the 20 or so lbs. back to help the CG out.
He told me that he picked up speed slightly and couldn't tell the difference
noise-wise from the cockpit.
Don't you want to rattle the dishes when you buzz the house?
What dash number is your IO-360? If its the -A1B6, F1A6, etc then it has a counterweighed
crank(or "crankshaft dampers", same thing) which reduces harmonic
vibrations. The counterweights help phase-out the sharp power pulses of the
200 hp engines. The construction manual section on Lycoming dash numbers will
tell you if your engine is counterweighted. The crank itself has the counterweights...no
need to worry about external harmonic dampeners. The non-counterweighted
IO-360's typically are used in applications where the fuel injection is
required but the high horsepower isn't...I believe the 1998 C-172 spam I've
been flying occasionally is non-counterweighted but the rpm's are limited to 2450.
Make sure your engine is counterweighted and use the 72" Hartzell.
Bob Japundza
doing,ugh, (I hate to say the word) fiberglass work on wingtips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
"Japundza, Bob" wrote:
>
> What dash number is your IO-360? If its the -A1B6, F1A6, etc then it has a counterweighed
crank(or "crankshaft dampers", same thing) which reduces harmonic
vibrations. The counterweights help phase-out the sharp power pulses of the
200 hp engines. The construction manual section on Lycoming dash numbers will
tell you if your engine is counterweighted. The crank itself has the counterweights...no
need to worry about external harmonic dampeners. The non-counterweighted
IO-360's typically are used in applications where the fuel injection
is required but the high horsepower isn't...I believe the 1998 C-172 spam I've
been flying occasionally is non-counterweighted but the rpm's are limited to
2450.
>
> Make sure your engine is counterweighted and use the 72" Hartzell.
I've gone back and forth a couple of times (Sue at AeroSport has been very patient)
between the IO-360-A1A and the -A1B6. I was seriously interested in getting
a three-bladed MT for my -8 and MT strongly recommends the -A1B6, as their
props do better with the counterweight dampers installed. Considering that Bart
charges an additional $2500 for the counterweighted engine and Van's hasn't
yet divulged their OEM prices for MT props, I've decided to go with the -A1A
and have ordered my Hartzell. Did I choose the 'wrong' engine? I couldn't find
any restrictions in the data sheets for the -A1A with the -C2YK prop. Did
I miss something? My airplane's mission will principally be local sport flying,
with some long distance cross
country trips and occasional aerobatic self-amusement (Sportsman level maneuvers).
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
gear boxes
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
.. Did I choose the 'wrong' engine? I couldn't find any restrictions in the
data sheets for the -A1A with the -C2YK prop. Did I miss something? My
airplane's mission will principally be local sport flying, with some long
distance cross
country trips and occasional aerobatic self-amusement (Sportsman level
maneuvers).....
>
> Just because there were no restrictions I would NOT think its ok to do it. I
would look for a FAA blessed pairing ( motor & prop ) . Remember, this blessed
pairing of engine & prop means there are hundreds of thousands of hours of the
two units operating together. I would not like to incur the expense (or worse)
of accumulating the first hours
on a new pairing of engine & prop ( by pairing I mean the dash numbers)....thats
experimenting with a capital E
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Initial Flight Testing Report |
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy J. Pflanzer [mailto:rpflanze(at)iquest.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 2:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Initial Flight Testing Report
Fellow Builders/Flyers,
I now have a little over 7 hours on my airplane and I thought I'd provide
folks with a recap of how things are going and what I've found. This is a
long post, so if interest wains, hit the delete key.
My first five flights have been limited to engine reliability and basic
flight control checks. My Aerosport Power O-320 has performed flawlessly.
So far, it's gulped about 1/2 quart of mineral oil. Fuel consumption has
been consistent at 10.5 GPH at full throttle (2600 RPM and full rich). I'm
using the Sensenich fixed metal prop so I'm limited to 2600 RPM max. I pull
about 2200 static and it maxs out right at 2600 RPM in level flight at full
throttle. Oil temperatures are higher than normal but within limits. I
plan to open up the size of my oil cooler opening in my left rear baffle to
allow more air to flow through the cooler. I think it is a little
undersized. CHT's are terrific and well down in the green.
Instruments have worked flawlessly. I did adjust my vacuum regulator so
that I pull a full 5" of Hg. Airspeed calibration has shown that my True
Airspeed Indicator shows about 3-4 KTS slow at full throttle at 6000'. I
used the TAS calulator from Kevin Horton's web site and I am consistently
getting TAS at full throttle of around 160 KTS. Additional calibrations at
2300 RPM and 2000 RPM show a consistent 3-4 KTS slower than actual TAS.
Takeoffs are now routine. I've made minor adjustments to both ailerons to
get them to trail properly in flight. This plus an adjustment to the
aileron trim linkage corrected an initial right wing heavy condition. I
need a little right rudder to hold the ball in the center. Eventually, I'll
play with different size wedges for the elevator but for now, I just keep a
little pressure on the right rudder pedal. The incidence on my horizontal
stabilizer must not be just right. My elevators trail slightly down in
level flight. I shimmed .050 under the front attachments but it didn't seem
to help. If I shim much more, my emmpenage fairing is not going to fit
properly. I will wait until after AirVenture to figure out what to do. I
have both electric elevator and electric aileron trims and I use the MAC
speed controller and MAC grips. I like them a lot. I have the speed
controller set as slow as it will go and the sensitivity is about right.
Just a quick touch of the buttons on top of the stick and I can trim hands
off in a few seconds. Landings are not bad but I never know what I'm going
to get. I usually manage a skip or two. I'm still just a little slow on
the flare. I use 70 KTS in the pattern with 20 degrees of flaps. I shoot
for 65KTS to 60 KTS over the numbers.
I'll reinforce what I've said before, this thing is a blast to fly. Climbs
like a banshee. Once you push the nose over and level off, she's like a ski
boat getting up on the step. She starts to unwind and the airspeed
indicator moves up quickly. I've found the visibility in the slider to be
very good and you really don't notice the center bar much. I was a little
worried about that but it hasn't turned out to be a big deal. I do love the
Lightspeed X25 headsets and wouldn't fly without them. Inside noise is
nonexistent. Just for kicks, I took them off the last time I was up and I
couldn't believe the noise level.
About the only things I'd do differently is my placement of the engine
instruments. I have a picture of my panel on my web site. Since they are
on the right side, they are not easy to see in flight. They need to be
canted towards the pilot. I'd take a serious look at the panel that Laird
Owens offers and maybe use it. Also, I can see the future need for a single
axis or double axis autopilot. Not that it's touchy or anything, but a
quick look down at the GPS or chart can result in a fairly quick divergence
from level flight, especially if not trimmed properly.
As for the rest of my flight testing, I'm following written test plans that
I've gleaned from AC: 90-89A AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT AND ULTRALIGHT FLIGHT
TESTING HANDBOOK. I have flight plans documented step-by-step in WORD 97
from pre-flight through landing for each flight. As I execute the flight
plans, I've been updating them to make them even more usable. When I'm
done, I'll ask Doug Reeves to post them on his great web site so that others
can benefit from them if they'd like.
This is way too much for now, but I have a hard time not talking too much
about my new airplane. I'm having a blast. I hope to be at Airventure
Thursday through Saturday, so please stop by and introduce yourself to me if
you get a chance.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (7.5 hours)
Indianapolis, IN (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
<< Van's hasn't yet divulged their OEM prices for MT props, >>
THEY QUOTED ME $8700.00 PLUS SHIPPING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003636345@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
21 Jun 2000 15:36:49.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Air vent for Rear Seat Passenger off the wing |
Hi Listers,
I'm ready to plumb a fresh air vent to the back seat of my RV-4 (got to keep my
wife
happy). I'm planning to pull the air off the bottom of the wing, but I've looked
in the archives
and my zillion years of RVators and just haven't seen any instructions. So, for
you RV-
tandem builders, do you put the NACA vent on the right or left wing? On the -4
the wing
root has four closely spaced ribs --- do I place the NACA vent just outboard of
the 4th rib?
How far aft of the fuel tank should I put it? Can anyone give me a reference in
the RVator to
look up? Any other suggestions?
As always, thank you for taking time to help me!
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, final details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
Larry Purdue wrote
"On the site they ask our opinion of the paint job, Since they asked, I think
this will cost them about 25-50 kit sales a year"
I have seen the airplane in person, the photos dont do it any justice, it is
a beautiful machine up close and personal. the workmanship on the airframe is
flawlessly perfect. However, if it was my plane, I would have used white or
silver instead of the yellow, just my opinion.
Kevin Shannon
-9A /Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
In regards to recent talk about the flap hinge brackets, it is a whole lot
easier to fab the attach angles and get the parts match drilled while the
skeleton is just clecoed together. I chose to cleco assemble the whole wing
and fab all of the phantom parts before I set any rivets. This is a good
opportunity to totally understand the construction sequence, and to move
other parts out of your way to get at those tight spots
Kevin Shannon
-9A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air vent for Rear Seat Passenger off the wing |
Clay,
On my -8A it is installed in the right wing just outboard of the multiple
ribs, like you mentioned, fairly close, I'd say about 3-4 inches from the
front of the vent, to the spar. I am able to easily reach the top of the
vent from the inboard access hole. The instructions are in the Van's
RV-8(A) construction manual. The vent kit from Van's comes with the
template for the naca cutout. Hope this helps.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>Jun 2000 15:36:49.-0700(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: Air vent for Rear Seat Passenger off the wing
>Date: 21 Jun 2000 17:48:02 -0500
>
>
>Hi Listers,
>I'm ready to plumb a fresh air vent to the back seat of my RV-4 (got to
>keep my wife
>happy). I'm planning to pull the air off the bottom of the wing, but I've
>looked in the archives
>and my zillion years of RVators and just haven't seen any instructions.
>So, for you RV-
>tandem builders, do you put the NACA vent on the right or left wing? On
>the -4 the wing
>root has four closely spaced ribs --- do I place the NACA vent just
>outboard of the 4th rib?
>How far aft of the fuel tank should I put it? Can anyone give me a
>reference in the RVator to
>look up? Any other suggestions?
>
>As always, thank you for taking time to help me!
>
>Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, final details
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Air vent for Rear Seat Passenger off the wing |
>
>Hi Listers,
>I'm ready to plumb a fresh air vent to the back seat of my RV-4 (got
>to keep my wife
>happy). I'm planning to pull the air off the bottom of the wing,
>but I've looked in the archives
>and my zillion years of RVators and just haven't seen any
>instructions. So, for you RV-
>tandem builders, do you put the NACA vent on the right or left wing?
>On the -4 the wing
>root has four closely spaced ribs --- do I place the NACA vent just
>outboard of the 4th rib?
>How far aft of the fuel tank should I put it? Can anyone give me a
>reference in the RVator to
>look up? Any other suggestions?
>
>As always, thank you for taking time to help me!
>
>Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, final details
>
Clay,
On the RV-8, the NACA vent is in the bottom of the right wing. The
leading edge of the hole is about 8.5 inches aft of the spar web.
The centre of the vent is about 13 inches outboard from the inner
edge of the wing skin.
I flew in the back of Brian Denk's RV-8, and that vent puts out lots of air.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Its right there in the Type Cert. sheet. It says that for the HC-C2YK on
the IO-360-A1A to "Avoid Continuous Operation Between 2000 and 2250 RPM".
Sorry, PC, but it got by you somehow.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: pcondon(at)csc.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:39:07 -0400
>
>
>.. Did I choose the 'wrong' engine? I couldn't find any restrictions in
>the
>data sheets for the -A1A with the -C2YK prop. Did I miss something? My
>airplane's mission will principally be local sport flying, with some long
>distance cross
>country trips and occasional aerobatic self-amusement (Sportsman level
>maneuvers).....
> >
> > Just because there were no restrictions I would NOT think its ok to do
>it. I
>would look for a FAA blessed pairing ( motor & prop ) . Remember, this
>blessed
>pairing of engine & prop means there are hundreds of thousands of hours of
>the
>two units operating together. I would not like to incur the expense (or
>worse)
>of accumulating the first hours
>on a new pairing of engine & prop ( by pairing I mean the dash
>numbers)....thats
>experimenting with a capital E
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
That is because there aren't any(other than the normal RPM range
restrictions). The problem is with the extended hub M2YR prop a'la Barnard
cowl. This prop is used on several spam cans including Beech Sundowner,
Sierra and Lake Buchaneer(with reverse thrust blades).
I have an IO-360 A1B.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>Date: Wed, Jun 21, 2000, 2:40 PM
>
> Did I choose the 'wrong' engine? I couldn't find any restrictions in the
> data sheets for the -A1A with the -C2YK prop. Did I miss something? My
> airplane's mission will principally be local sport flying, with some long
> distance cross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Alright, Now I'm completely confused. Am I hearing that the A1A is not
necessarily the engine of choice for a constant speed RV? Alright, I'll
bite.....what is?
Bill
-4 wings nearly done
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>
> Its right there in the Type Cert. sheet. It says that for the HC-C2YK on
> the IO-360-A1A to "Avoid Continuous Operation Between 2000 and 2250 RPM".
> Sorry, PC, but it got by you somehow.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: pcondon(at)csc.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
> >Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:39:07 -0400
> >
> >
> >
> >.. Did I choose the 'wrong' engine? I couldn't find any restrictions in
> >the
> >data sheets for the -A1A with the -C2YK prop. Did I miss something? My
> >airplane's mission will principally be local sport flying, with some long
> >distance cross
> >country trips and occasional aerobatic self-amusement (Sportsman level
> >maneuvers).....
> > >
> > > Just because there were no restrictions I would NOT think its ok to do
> >it. I
> >would look for a FAA blessed pairing ( motor & prop ) . Remember, this
> >blessed
> >pairing of engine & prop means there are hundreds of thousands of hours
of
> >the
> >two units operating together. I would not like to incur the expense (or
> >worse)
> >of accumulating the first hours
> >on a new pairing of engine & prop ( by pairing I mean the dash
> >numbers)....thats
> >experimenting with a capital E
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paper Funnel |
>
>Just got my insurance policy from Scott Smith. Enclosed was the exact
>item I have been meaning to patent and make a million dollars on, a
>collapsable paper oil funnel. Is this a reddily available item I have
>just never seen?
Larry,
I have a pack of paper/cardboard funnels that I'm pretty sure came from
Aircraft Spruce.
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.slinger.net/rv-6a/
West Bend, WI
RV6A-QB N86CG, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary & Tena Strong" <gstrong(at)uswest.net> |
thanks a million for all the great replies. As suggested, I purchased some
cabinets and I'm going to unpack each bag/part and put them in labeled bins.
Sounds like the learning of what each part is tends to be worth the time,
balanced by the great news that Vans seldom misses parts.
-- Gary S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine thrust angle resolved |
Randy Lervold wrote:
> Did you know that the
> RV-3/4/8 all are spec'd with 1/2 degree postive angle of incidence on the
> main wing, while the RV-6/9s use one full degree?
Say what? My RV-3 manual (page 8-26) calls for 1 degree.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Modification of F-621 canopy deck |
> > I am considering modifying my F-621 canopy deck to make room for an
> > instrument in the lower left of the panel. Has anyone else done this?
> > Can anyone see a reason I shouldn't do this
> F-621 looks structural to me. I doubt that we can put more than holes in
it.
> To interupt the inside edge might be a no no. Lets call the factory and
ask.
> I'll do it for you. Stay tuned, I'll re-post the results on Monday night.
Reply from Scott at Vans is in. He said,"couldn't say what the structural
ramifications would be without running it by engineering but my first
reaction would be to leave it alone."
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine thrust angle resolved |
> Did you know that the
> RV-3/4/8 all are spec'd with 1/2 degree postive angle of incidence on the
> main wing, while the RV-6/9s use one full degree? The thinking is that the
> RV-6 would be more of a cross country aircraft carrying more weight and
> flying at higher altitudes, therefore they gave it the extra half degree to
> support the weight and keep the tail from sagging at cruise.
Actually I did some calculations some time back (a neat spreadsheet)
which also confirmed these incidence angles for the '6. I calculated
that the one degree was near optimal for cruise at moderate weight
loading (don't recall exactly the figure but corresponded to partial
fuel, a passenger plus a little luggage) 8000' and 55% cruise (of
160hp). Fancy that!
If you had in mind to tool around at 75% or more of 180hp with less
weight or at lower altitude you might consider reducing this to the 1/2
degree as for the other models. A guesstimate since I havent done any
calcs for this case. (no I don't want to - I have an aeroplane to build)
The actual incidence angle (wing to airflow) which the wing adopts is
fixed for any set of conditions and translates into pitch. Some folk
adjust the tailplane incidence to better align it with the airflow (but
for which conditions?). When they do this the fuse still drags along at
an angle and as Randy noted the engine thrust line will be also be out
by a whopping 1/2 degree (more or less !).
Quite frankly I wouldn't change anything. An aircraft design is a
compromise as we can see here and I don't believe moving the compromise
around returns anything in the long term. So I'll leave the design
work to Vans since he seems to have got things pretty right.
Doug Gray
RV6 builder, NOT an aircraft designer!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
I didn't mean to infer that your choice wasn't correct. The point I failed to
make ( my fault) is that I would look for a engine/prop pairing that is already
proven. Your dash-whatever engine is "certified" with a number of props
(including the Sensenich metal for RV's.) The word certified means different
things to different people. In the area of props I would recommend sticking to
a
engine/prop that has been successfully paired in the past. If your engine choice
has a constant speed that some aircraft manufacture has successfully mated....I
would tend to recommend that choice. You have tens of thousands of hours behind
that grouping of engine/prop.
billshook(at)mindspring.com on 06/21/2000 10:39:16 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
Alright, Now I'm completely confused. Am I hearing that the A1A is not
necessarily the engine of choice for a constant speed RV? Alright, I'll
bite.....what is?
Bill
-4 wings nearly done
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>
> Its right there in the Type Cert. sheet. It says that for the HC-C2YK on
> the IO-360-A1A to "Avoid Continuous Operation Between 2000 and 2250 RPM".
> Sorry, PC, but it got by you somehow.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: pcondon(at)csc.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
> >Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:39:07 -0400
> >
> >
> >
> >.. Did I choose the 'wrong' engine? I couldn't find any restrictions in
> >the
> >data sheets for the -A1A with the -C2YK prop. Did I miss something? My
> >airplane's mission will principally be local sport flying, with some long
> >distance cross
> >country trips and occasional aerobatic self-amusement (Sportsman level
> >maneuvers).....
> > >
> > > Just because there were no restrictions I would NOT think its ok to do
> >it. I
> >would look for a FAA blessed pairing ( motor & prop ) . Remember, this
> >blessed
> >pairing of engine & prop means there are hundreds of thousands of hours
of
> >the
> >two units operating together. I would not like to incur the expense (or
> >worse)
> >of accumulating the first hours
> >on a new pairing of engine & prop ( by pairing I mean the dash
> >numbers)....thats
> >experimenting with a capital E
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine thrust angle resolved |
I have made a BIG computer mistake. I found MANY e-mails which I DON'T want
from your service. PLEASE CANCEL any and AlL requests I have made for your
services. I am not too sharp on this computer machine so forgive my errors.
Thank you.
Isablcorky(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
No problem. I agree with your conservative thinking in this area. I don't want
to
be a test pilot that badly! That said, where can I find a listing of such 'blessed'
engine/prop combinations? That is, combinations that have been certified on one
or
more spam cans.
Regards,
Ken
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> I didn't mean to infer that your choice wasn't correct. The point I failed to
> make ( my fault) is that I would look for a engine/prop pairing that is already
> proven. Your dash-whatever engine is "certified" with a number of props
> (including the Sensenich metal for RV's.) The word certified means different
> things to different people. In the area of props I would recommend sticking to
a
> engine/prop that has been successfully paired in the past. If your engine choice
> has a constant speed that some aircraft manufacture has successfully mated....I
> would tend to recommend that choice. You have tens of thousands of hours behind
> that grouping of engine/prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Static RPM, Wing Incidence |
Just throwing out some data after reading some recent posts.
My bare bones RV3: 68x72 Sterba prop, 150 hp 0320, barely 2,000 RPM at
beginning of takeoff roll, about 2,800 RPM full throttle and leaned out @
8,000 ft and a little over 200 mph TAS , hot CHTs in 400's but not past
redline, oil 160 to 190 degrees.
I built by the manual and the 1 degree of wing incidence is probably a
little too much. Elevator and trim is in perfect trail only at 100 mph
requiring increased down trim at higher speeds. However, I run out of up
trim with full flaps during landing.
Gray Linzel
300 hrs RV3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | AD's and Service Notices |
Is there a source on the internet or elsewhere to get a list of AD's and
service notices for a particular engine. I just aquired a used O-320 H2AD
with log books. All throughout the logs it indicates "AD ####### complied
with" but in most instances doesn't say what it was.
Thanks in advance.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A pictures on website |
RV-9A builders:
There doesn't seem to be too many builder websites for the RV-9A yet, so
last night I put a few pictures of my project up on my website. It is not
meant to be a complete builder's log, just a few pictures that others might
find of interest. I'm no webmaster, so please excuse the lack of fancy
menus, etc.
Here is the URL: http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | AD's and Service Notices |
Eric,
Visit with your local mechanic. He will either have the AD's on microfiche or
on CDROM. The mechanic at my airport just ran all the AD notes against my engine
and prop on the computer and had all applicable AD's printed out in 30 seconds.
You then need to compare the current list with what's in the logs to be
sure you are in compliance. On some AD's you may have to physically check the
engine (oil gears, etc) if the logbooks aren't detailed enough. Don't trust
the logs!
Bob Japundza
tentative inspection date July 17
> Is there a source on the internet or elsewhere to get a list
> of AD's and
> service notices for a particular engine. I just aquired a
> used O-320 H2AD
> with log books. All throughout the logs it indicates "AD
> ####### complied
> with" but in most instances doesn't say what it was.
> Thanks in advance.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
You can call Hartzell, they faxed me a list. Also,
>> (including the Sensenich metal for RV's.)
I know of NO Sensenich available or tested on the 200HP engine.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>Date: Thu, Jun 22, 2000, 8:13 AM
>
>
> No problem. I agree with your conservative thinking in this area. I don't
want to
> be a test pilot that badly! That said, where can I find a listing of such
> 'blessed'
> engine/prop combinations? That is, combinations that have been certified on
one or
> more spam cans.
>
> Regards,
> Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine & Prop Combo's |
Does anyone have a idea where to find the engine/prop combinations other than
reviewing the TC's ? I have looked at the aviation blue book for a quick
reference but does anyone know of a better source. Basically a poster has a
engine & he wants to get a list of the C/S props that have been mated to the
same -dash numbered engine by any/all of the aircraft
manufactures.............so he can choose a C/S prop......
No problem. I agree with your conservative thinking in this area. I don't want
to
be a test pilot that badly! That said, where can I find a listing of such
'blessed'
engine/prop combinations? That is, combinations that have been certified on one
or
more spam cans.
Regards,
Ken
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> I didn't mean to infer that your choice wasn't correct. The point I failed to
> make ( my fault) is that I would look for a engine/prop pairing that is
already
> proven. Your dash-whatever engine is "certified" with a number of props
> (including the Sensenich metal for RV's.) The word certified means
different
> things to different people. In the area of props I would recommend sticking to
a
> engine/prop that has been successfully paired in the past. If your engine
choice
> has a constant speed that some aircraft manufacture has successfully
mated....I
> would tend to recommend that choice. You have tens of thousands of hours
behind
> that grouping of engine/prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD's and Service Notices |
I posted on the RV-list your question....we'll see if there is any data. I have
used the aviation blue book in years past (the salesman price guide for
aircraft). It mentioned the -dash number and all relevant data on engine & prop.
I took my case one step further and compiled a list of certified prop/engine
pairs, then researched repair and overhaul shop for costs & AD's to repair and
overhaul the prop(s). I narrowed down my choice by the most common, least AD's,
cheepist to repair prop. (There are some odd-ball props that are expensive to
overhaul)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Engine in orlando? |
Do you have the number of the place you bought your engine here in Orlando?
I looked up Air-tech in the phone book and there are two of them...one
disconnected, the other an answering machine. :-(
Bill
-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Static RPM, Wing Incidence |
I have slightly different numbers...
On a O-320-E2C converted to high compression 160hp and a 72x74 Warnke
static at 0 density alt 2,200.
best level speed at 0 density altitude is @ 2800 rpm and 210mph.
My elevator trip requires full aft trim to maintain 100mph. My CG is very
nose heavy, so this doesn't shock me. I usually trim for level flight at
120mph so I have some in reserve.
I can't sustain a spin for more than one revolution before it comes out on
it's own from the CG effects.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 6:16 AM
Subject: RV3-List: Static RPM, Wing Incidence
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> Just throwing out some data after reading some recent posts.
>
> My bare bones RV3: 68x72 Sterba prop, 150 hp 0320, barely 2,000 RPM at
> beginning of takeoff roll, about 2,800 RPM full throttle and leaned out @
> 8,000 ft and a little over 200 mph TAS , hot CHTs in 400's but not past
> redline, oil 160 to 190 degrees.
>
> I built by the manual and the 1 degree of wing incidence is probably a
> little too much. Elevator and trim is in perfect trail only at 100 mph
> requiring increased down trim at higher speeds. However, I run out of up
> trim with full flaps during landing.
>
> Gray Linzel
> 300 hrs RV3
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohanneskayir(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Air vent |
Hello Listers,
my question is about the air pressure available on F-421 ( top skin that
sits between instrument panel and fire wall of an RV-4).
Inside "eyeball air vents" are installed 1/2 way up, on L and R sides of the
instrument panel. I am thinking of placing my NACA air vents on F-421 and
run a short piece of scat tubing directly to the indoor eyeball vents.
Exact location of the NACA scoops would be , one on each side, where the
front L and R corners of the F-421 meet the fire wall and F-420 (fuselage
front side skins) just above the cowl cheek extensions. From where the
pilot sits, they would be at 11 and 1 o'clock positons. Is this a high or
low pressure area? Am I looking for HIGH pressure for good air flow?
What other problems may arise from installing the NACA vents in the above
locatons? Is there such a thing as water ingestion problem with NACA vents,
considering both my indoor and outdoor vents and scat tubing would be in
close proximity to electric instruments and gyros?
Thanks in advance
Yohannes Kayir
finishing kit, RV-4
Pensacola, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine in orlando? |
Oops...that damned automatic reply to the list thing got me again....sorry.
Bill
> Do you have the number of the place you bought your engine here in
Orlando?
> I looked up Air-tech in the phone book and there are two of them...one
> disconnected, the other an answering machine. :-(
>
> Bill
> -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NACA Air vent |
My area where you describe on my RV-4 is really, REALLY full. I have a average
full pannel but the hoses, wires, vacuum regulator, instruments, encoder,vacuum
hoses, oil pressure hoses, and fuel pressure lines I can't see you having the
room. Water will be a big problem. If installed on top I can see water flowing
in. (I located my NACA's on the wing bottoms and have flown thru rain and no
water inside) Parking outside has its obvious water/rain entry point . ...Your
solution sounds clever, keep us posted if you determin any reasons not to mount
there.
yohanneskayir(at)netzero.net on 06/22/2000 12:07:23 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA Air vent
Hello Listers,
my question is about the air pressure available on F-421 ( top skin that
sits between instrument panel and fire wall of an RV-4).
Inside "eyeball air vents" are installed 1/2 way up, on L and R sides of the
instrument panel. I am thinking of placing my NACA air vents on F-421 and
run a short piece of scat tubing directly to the indoor eyeball vents.
Exact location of the NACA scoops would be , one on each side, where the
front L and R corners of the F-421 meet the fire wall and F-420 (fuselage
front side skins) just above the cowl cheek extensions. From where the
pilot sits, they would be at 11 and 1 o'clock positons. Is this a high or
low pressure area? Am I looking for HIGH pressure for good air flow?
What other problems may arise from installing the NACA vents in the above
locatons? Is there such a thing as water ingestion problem with NACA vents,
considering both my indoor and outdoor vents and scat tubing would be in
close proximity to electric instruments and gyros?
Thanks in advance
Yohannes Kayir
finishing kit, RV-4
Pensacola, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Ken,
There are two places you can look for this info. The Type Certificate shows
all prop engine pairing with any restrictions. Also Hartzell's website has
an area that also shows pairing by aircraft make and model. to include
Glassairs, Lancairs, and RVs. The Type Certificate is available from
anybody (A&P, IA) that has a library, or from the FSDO.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 09:13:32 -0400
>
>
>No problem. I agree with your conservative thinking in this area. I don't
>want to
>be a test pilot that badly! That said, where can I find a listing of such
>'blessed'
>engine/prop combinations? That is, combinations that have been certified
>on one or
>more spam cans.
>
>Regards,
>Ken
>
>pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I didn't mean to infer that your choice wasn't correct. The point I
>failed to
> > make ( my fault) is that I would look for a engine/prop pairing that is
>already
> > proven. Your dash-whatever engine is "certified" with a number of props
> > (including the Sensenich metal for RV's.) The word certified means
>different
> > things to different people. In the area of props I would recommend
>sticking to a
> > engine/prop that has been successfully paired in the past. If your
>engine choice
> > has a constant speed that some aircraft manufacture has successfully
>mated....I
> > would tend to recommend that choice. You have tens of thousands of hours
>behind
> > that grouping of engine/prop.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Crosswind Landing Technique |
What technique are other RV flyers using when landing in a strong crosswind?
Do you still try to 3-point it in a cross-controlled manner or do you wheel
land it? What speeds and flap settings do you use?
I could use a little advice. Went flying early this morning and when I
returned, I had a very gusty crosswind. It wasn't pretty and I didn't
scrape any paint off of it, but it was close. I'm pretty bummed about my
lousy landing and I'm determined to get better.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (8.5 hours)
Indianapolis, IN (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Mike,
Thanks for the info. Hartzell's website provided exactly what I needed.
According to them, the -C2YK (w/72" blades) has been paired with the -A1B6 on
the Socata TB-200 Tobago XL and with the -A1A on the Mooney M20 series. So, it
looks as though each of the engine/prop combinations I'm considering has had the
benefit of many thousands of hours of spam can time. With that in mind, I need
to evaluate whether the -A1B6 would provide $2500 worth of additional,
counterweighted smoothness over the -A1A. Hmm...
Ken
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> There are two places you can look for this info. The Type Certificate shows
> all prop engine pairing with any restrictions. Also Hartzell's website has
> an area that also shows pairing by aircraft make and model. to include
> Glassairs, Lancairs, and RVs. The Type Certificate is available from
> anybody (A&P, IA) that has a library, or from the FSDO.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
Bill wrote about the RV-9a paint job:
snip
>Uh, yeah....that's pretty much butt ugly.
snip
Great.....another critic.
What's that about "if you can't say something nice..."
Somebody put a lot of themselves into that work. You just said that work was crap.
I can't wait to see yours. But if I don't like it, you won't hear about
from me.
Laird RV-6 26 hrs (feeling cranky because the RV is down for maintenance)
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine in orlando? |
I think you are looking for Air-Tec, ( Dick Waters is the owner)..... I would
be very careful.... I bought my 0-320 from them, and my hangar partner bought
his 0-360 from them as well. Mine is running strong after 300 hours but my
partner's had to be completely re-built at 300 hours. Very poor job on his!
I'm keeping a real close eye on mine... keeping my fingers crossed!
For what it is worth.... I would not buy another engine from them in the
future.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine in orlando? |
>
> I think you are looking for Air-Tec, ( Dick Waters is the owner)..... I
would
> be very careful.... I bought my 0-320 from them, and my hangar partner
bought
> his 0-360 from them as well. Mine is running strong after 300 hours but my
> partner's had to be completely re-built at 300 hours. Very poor job on
his!
> I'm keeping a real close eye on mine... keeping my fingers crossed!
>
> For what it is worth.... I would not buy another engine from them in the
> future.
I hate to say this, but one of our members had a complete crankshaft failure
on a Waters engine with less than 50 hrs ttl which resulted in a forced
landing (successful and not a scratch on the RV). The engine was replaced,
but not a fun experience for anyone.
Doug Weiler, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Bill wrote about the RV-9a paint job:
>
>snip
>
>>Uh, yeah....that's pretty much butt ugly.
>
>snip
>
>Great.....another critic.
>
>What's that about "if you can't say something nice..."
>
>Somebody put a lot of themselves into that work. You just said that work
>was crap. I can't wait to see yours. But if I don't like it, you won't
>hear about from me.
>
I started this thread so maybe you should be yelling at me, but VANS
solicited opinions on the website.
If someone walked up to my plane and said it was ugly I would be
offended, but if I asked for an opinion and they said it was ugly I would
just feel stupid (for asking).
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Paper Funnel |
In a message dated 6/21/00 9:49:09 PM Central Daylight Time,
chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< Collapsable paper oil funnel. Is this a readily available item I have
>just never seen? >>
The Griot"s Garage catalog (auto related) has disposable funnels. Page 59 in
latest catalog.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Today I just recieved my second issue RVator and they list all the
priliminary prices for the 2 and 3 blade MT props.
Decisions, Decisions
Mike & Beth Nellis
RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 01:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the info. Hartzell's website provided exactly what I needed.
> According to them, the -C2YK (w/72" blades) has been paired with the -A1B6
on
> the Socata TB-200 Tobago XL and with the -A1A on the Mooney M20 series.
So, it
> looks as though each of the engine/prop combinations I'm considering has
had the
> benefit of many thousands of hours of spam can time. With that in mind, I
need
> to evaluate whether the -A1B6 would provide $2500 worth of additional,
> counterweighted smoothness over the -A1A. Hmm...
>
> Ken
>
> Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> >
> > Ken,
> >
> > There are two places you can look for this info. The Type Certificate
shows
> > all prop engine pairing with any restrictions. Also Hartzell's website
has
> > an area that also shows pairing by aircraft make and model. to include
> > Glassairs, Lancairs, and RVs. The Type Certificate is available from
> > anybody (A&P, IA) that has a library, or from the FSDO.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crosswind Landing Technique |
>
>What technique are other RV flyers using when landing in a strong
>crosswind?
>Do you still try to 3-point it in a cross-controlled manner or do you wheel
>land it? What speeds and flap settings do you use?
>
>I could use a little advice. Went flying early this morning and when I
>returned, I had a very gusty crosswind. It wasn't pretty and I didn't
>scrape any paint off of it, but it was close. I'm pretty bummed about my
>lousy landing and I'm determined to get better.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (8.5 hours)
>Indianapolis, IN (UMP)
>http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
Randy,
I use 80mph indicated with no more than 1/2 flaps and wheel it on, keeping
the upwind wing low down final. When I roll out from base to final, I let
the airplane crab just to see what I'm dealing with then put it into a slip
to see if I can maintain runway alignment with available rudder. If the
plane can be kept on centerline, then I continue the approach.
As speed decays after planting the mains, I start moving the stick over into
the wind to keep the upwind wing down. When the wing is done flying, the
stick comes back smoothly into my lap...firmly planting the tailwheel, with
full aileron into the wind. It gets pretty busy when the winds are howling
across the runway, and it's hard to make the arrival look or feel very
pretty. I've had pax on two such wild arrivals, and advised them on final
that it might get a bit exciting at times, but that I've done this
before...with me AND the plane in fine shape!
Keep the approach speed a bit higher than normal, and don't be afraid to use
full control inputs as necessary. If the winds won't allow you to track
centerline, then seek another runway. You'll do fine. Keep the faith!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
105 hrs.
man, what's up with the avgas prices?!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Glad I could help Ken. I guess the only difference will be whether or not
you want to deal with the RPM restriction, and, IMHO, the slight difference
in vibration. When I have flown aircraft with the two different engines I
haven't been able to feel that much difference in the vibration levels. But
then again I may be butt dead after flying in helicopters all these years.
MIke R.
>From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 14:32:52 -0400
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Thanks for the info. Hartzell's website provided exactly what I needed.
>According to them, the -C2YK (w/72" blades) has been paired with the -A1B6
>on
>the Socata TB-200 Tobago XL and with the -A1A on the Mooney M20 series.
>So, it
>looks as though each of the engine/prop combinations I'm considering has
>had the
>benefit of many thousands of hours of spam can time. With that in mind, I
>need
>to evaluate whether the -A1B6 would provide $2500 worth of additional,
>counterweighted smoothness over the -A1A. Hmm...
>
>Ken
>
>Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> >
> > Ken,
> >
> > There are two places you can look for this info. The Type Certificate
>shows
> > all prop engine pairing with any restrictions. Also Hartzell's website
>has
> > an area that also shows pairing by aircraft make and model. to include
> > Glassairs, Lancairs, and RVs. The Type Certificate is available from
> > anybody (A&P, IA) that has a library, or from the FSDO.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Great, I can't wait to get mine. The RVator, that is, not the MT, which I doubt
my wife will let me have. I never get any of the cool toys. Sigh... :-)
Ken
Mike Nellis wrote:
>
> Today I just recieved my second issue RVator and they list all the
> priliminary prices for the 2 and 3 blade MT props.
>
> Decisions, Decisions
>
> Mike & Beth Nellis
> RV6 N699BM (res), Plainfield, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Visiting Orlando and Huntsville - early July |
I will be visiting Orlando FL from July 1 - 13 and Huntsville, AL from July
15 - 19. I would like to see some projects, especially RV-6/9. I am
currently building the RV-9A wings. Since I have never flown in any RV I
would really like to buy someone a little food and avgas (hint).
Ernest Kells
RV-9A - Building Wings EAA: #430137
Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email: ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | PSS AOA--good customer service |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
A short note to the list to compliment Proprietary Software systems.
I purchased the "a" kit for their AOA sensor and misplaced some small parts.
When I finally figured they were gone for good, I called and explained my
predicament, asking how much it would cost for replacements.
The parts showed up in mail today, first class, no charge.
It's nice to know customer service still exists.
James Freeman
RV8Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Oliveira <Oliveira(at)eznet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A pictures on website |
Pictures look great,
Just about ready to drive the first rivets in the Horizontal Stab.
John Oliveira
RV9a - Serial Number 90054
N909RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
Larry,
If it came across that I was yelling, I apologize to all.
I just looked at the site and it sure looks like a rhetorical question, not a call
for opinions.
Still, if your girlfriend/wife asks "do I look fat to you?" Do you tell her what
you really think?
Laird RV-6 (without a girlfriend/wife, because I picked the wrong answer)
>
>
>Bill wrote about the RV-9a paint job:
>
>snip
>
>>Uh, yeah....that's pretty much butt ugly.
>
>snip
>
>Great.....another critic.
>
>What's that about "if you can't say something nice..."
>
>Somebody put a lot of themselves into that work. You just said that work
>was crap. I can't wait to see yours. But if I don't like it, you won't
>hear about from me.
>
I started this thread so maybe you should be yelling at me, but VANS
solicited opinions on the website.
If someone walked up to my plane and said it was ugly I would be
offended, but if I asked for an opinion and they said it was ugly I would
just feel stupid (for asking).
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A pictures on website |
John,
Thanks. Best of luck to you on your project!
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Serial #90025
Wings
mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Oliveira
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A pictures on website
Pictures look great,
Just about ready to drive the first rivets in the Horizontal Stab.
John Oliveira
RV9a - Serial Number 90054
N909RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
> Still, if your girlfriend/wife asks "do I look fat to you?" Do you tell
her what you really think?
'Honey does this dress make me look fat?'
'No dear, but those chocolate chip cookies you're always eating makes the
dress look to small'
Signed
The Bachelor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine in orlando? |
BILL
ait-tec number is 407-839-4746 ask for dick waters, i got a d*@m good engine
from him, 600 hrs total time since new with new starter , altinator, fly
wheel ring gear for 13k. it is an 0-360 a1a. 180 hp. with hollow crank for
constant speed prop.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
rv6a tipper
NO15EY RESERVED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Air vent |
Do RV6's take water in through the vents when flying in
rain?.................Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NACA Air vent |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Do RV6's take water in through the vents when flying in
>rain?.................Norman
>
I recently flew in moderate rain in my RV-6. No noticable amount of
water came through the vents.
Maybe I did not notice that water because so much was coming from other
places. I assume through the front of my tip-up. My canopy seems to be
well seaded in that area and I have not noticed air leaks there but a lot
of water dripped on my shins and puddled on the floor. Made me worry
about the radios.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Visiting Orlando and Huntsville - early July |
Hey Ernest, Huntsville is a hotbed of RV activity; Several RVs flying
and many under construction!
Send me private email and I will give you a phone number to call when
you arrive. See if you can stretch your visit to the 20th and you can
make our monthly RV Builders Group meeting.
By the way.....any other RV-listers are welcome to drop in.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with newly electrified flaps)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
======================
Ernest Kells wrote:
>
>
> I will be visiting Orlando FL from July 1 - 13 and Huntsville, AL from July
> 15 - 19. I would like to see some projects, especially RV-6/9. I am
> currently building the RV-9A wings. Since I have never flown in any RV I
> would really like to buy someone a little food and avgas (hint).
>
> Ernest Kells
> RV-9A - Building Wings EAA: #430137
> Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario Email: ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
Listers,
Is there anyone in central or southern Florida (say from Gainesville on
down) who has received an engine lately from Bart or Lycoming and still has
the crate available? Unfortunately, my engine has to go back and my crate
is long gone.
Thanks in advance,
Bill RV-8 N48WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Alright, so I've heard several bad stories now about both Don George and Air
tek. Anyone have anything bad to say about Aero sport? Any other
recommendations?
Bill
-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Static RPM, Wing Incidence |
I set my tail incidence so that full aft trim gives me my
best glide speed. Horizontal elevators in perfect trail
at 180mph indicated and thats where my RV3 spends
most of its time,
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM
Bruce Meacham wrote:
>
> I have slightly different numbers...
>
> On a O-320-E2C converted to high compression 160hp and a 72x74 Warnke
>
> static at 0 density alt 2,200.
> best level speed at 0 density altitude is @ 2800 rpm and 210mph.
>
> My elevator trip requires full aft trim to maintain 100mph. My CG is very
> nose heavy, so this doesn't shock me. I usually trim for level flight at
> 120mph so I have some in reserve.
>
> I can't sustain a spin for more than one revolution before it comes out on
> it's own from the CG effects.
>
> Bruce Meacham
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
> To: RV3-List Digest Server
> Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 6:16 AM
> Subject: RV3-List: Static RPM, Wing Incidence
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> >
> > Just throwing out some data after reading some recent posts.
> >
> > My bare bones RV3: 68x72 Sterba prop, 150 hp 0320, barely 2,000 RPM at
> > beginning of takeoff roll, about 2,800 RPM full throttle and leaned out @
> > 8,000 ft and a little over 200 mph TAS , hot CHTs in 400's but not past
> > redline, oil 160 to 190 degrees.
> >
> > I built by the manual and the 1 degree of wing incidence is probably a
> > little too much. Elevator and trim is in perfect trail only at 100 mph
> > requiring increased down trim at higher speeds. However, I run out of up
> > trim with full flaps during landing.
> >
> > Gray Linzel
> > 300 hrs RV3
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crosswind Landing Technique |
> Randy--
>
> You've asked a "can of worms" type question. The
> most correct answer is
> probably "that depends..."
> Flying a taildragger in a crosswind or gusty landing
> entails a
> relationship between you and the plane. What you
> feel comfortable with
> and what techniques you've practiced that seem to
> work the best. So,
> don't be bummed by one landing in a new plane. Now
> that you've
> identified a problem you need to work out the
> answer. There should be
> some single strip airports around you that will
> invariably have a
> crosswind on any given day. Have at them--if the
> wind is too strong,
> hold off for another day.
>
--------- snip ----------
>
> "Your mission is to explore new worlds...."--Star
> Trek music fades.
---------- snip ----------
>
> >
> > What technique are other RV flyers using when
> landing in a strong crosswind?
> > Do you still try to 3-point it in a
> cross-controlled manner or do you wheel
> > land it? What speeds and flap settings do you
> use?
> >
> > I could use a little advice. Went flying early
> this morning and when I
> > returned, I had a very gusty crosswind. It wasn't
> pretty and I didn't
> > scrape any paint off of it, but it was close. I'm
> pretty bummed about my
> > lousy landing and I'm determined to get better.
> >
> > Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (8.5 hours)
> > Indianapolis, IN (UMP)
> > http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
Randy:
I agree with what Boyd said above.
I THREE point the airplane on in crosswinds. The CFI
that taught me tailwheel aircraft about 14 years ago
also recommends them. Some of the old timers do not.
I put whatever control input is needed on final to
keep the airplane straight down the centerline. You
know if you have enough control for the crosswind
before you land. When you are down, the tailwheel on
the ground helps prevent weathervaneing.
I only have about 617 tailwheel hours with 573 of
those being RV tailwheel hours so I do not know
everything. So far, landings with windsock straight
out at 80 degrees have not been a problem. Also
landed / tookoff with 23 gusting 35 @ 270 on runway
26. Yes the landing was an eye openers as the gust hit
just as the airplane quit flying. A little power
allowed for recovery and 7,000 X 75 did not need to do
a go around.
My recommendation is to find an instructor and go try.
We have about 5 or 6 instructors with some RV
experience in SoCAL that I know of. Sure there are
some in Indianapolis.
I learned crosswind landings in my RV by trying it
myself. I was always ready for a go around. In fact,
we had so much of a crosswind at my own airport on the
way home from Arlington 99 that I went around and
landed at another airport. 3 hours later, the winds
were less wild and I flew the 4 miles home. I do not
think that the crosswind was the problem on that
attempt but the GUSTS WERE!
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine & Prop Combo's |
Go to www.hartzellprop.com They have a kitbuilt area that lists Van's
aircraft models with engine size and suggested prop.
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine & Prop Combo's
>
>
> Does anyone have a idea where to find the engine/prop combinations other
than
> reviewing the TC's ? I have looked at the aviation blue book for a quick
> reference but does anyone know of a better source. Basically a poster has
a
> engine & he wants to get a list of the C/S props that have been mated to
the
> same -dash numbered engine by any/all of the aircraft
> manufactures.............so he can choose a C/S prop......
>
>
> No problem. I agree with your conservative thinking in this area. I
don't want
> to
> be a test pilot that badly! That said, where can I find a listing of such
> 'blessed'
> engine/prop combinations? That is, combinations that have been certified
on one
> or
> more spam cans.
>
> Regards,
> Ken
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I didn't mean to infer that your choice wasn't correct. The point I
failed to
> > make ( my fault) is that I would look for a engine/prop pairing that is
> already
> > proven. Your dash-whatever engine is "certified" with a number of props
> > (including the Sensenich metal for RV's.) The word certified means
> different
> > things to different people. In the area of props I would recommend
sticking to
> a
> > engine/prop that has been successfully paired in the past. If your
engine
> choice
> > has a constant speed that some aircraft manufacture has successfully
> mated....I
> > would tend to recommend that choice. You have tens of thousands of hours
> behind
> > that grouping of engine/prop.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mister Murphy" <mister_murphy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Buid to fly Workshop |
Listers,
I was wondering if anyone on he list has had any experience with the
Sportair Workshops for the RV, particularly, their Buid to Fly program, at
www.buildtofly.com/rvbuildtofly.htm. Being new to RV construction, I would
like the extra security (and confidence)that I'm doing things properly from
the start, instead of finding out later that I was not. Any comments are
apreciated.
Erik
PS I tried to search the list archives but couldn't find anything on the
build to fly program.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Crosswind Landing Technique |
Crosswind Landing Technique:
My 2 cents worth:
Randy - All the techniques I have read thus far are very good.
Use what works best for you. Try them all and find out what makes you land
safely on a 90 degree full sock day. Practice Take offs as well.
A little background then one last tip:
Background:
I Use the technique Gary Sobek was taught & (one last tip) and found they
works best for me - I have about 1900+ hours and 2/3 are in tail draggers
spread over 20+ years - no ground loops - I keep praying! No Ground loops...
My instructor was Johnny Dore (Deceased) of Marigold Mississippi. He ran a
old time Crop Dusting School in Cubs and Stearmans - He would give you a
good chewing if he saw you wheel land. He wanted to see you land 3 point
with the tail wheel just slightly before the mains. And KEEP THAT STICK
BACK, FEET SOLID READY ON THE RUDDERS & BRAKES, HAND ON THE THROTTLE, READY
TO GO AROUND! Never be ashamed to go around... His theory was when you
wheel land you touch down at a speed above stall and are still flying and as
you lower the tail it is less effective. What keeps a tail dragger from
ground looping is a well planted tail wheel. He must of know what he was
talking about for I never knew of a student of his who ground looped while
under his watchful eye.
One last tip:
From an old Flying Magazine: Reduce the cross wind angle. How?
Most of us fly off of strips much wider than needed for our aircraft. So all
we need to do is visually note where we should be stopped on that 50 - 100
ft + wide runway and land in a slight angle more into the wind thus reducing
the cross wind angle. If you start to run out of runway just turn down the
runway and continue to stop. You can also use this technique when taking
off. Estimate how much runway you will need. Point it more into the wind and
takeoff.
Lastly:
A Landing without a bent Airplane or You - Will Do - This Time...
Use what works best for you. And Never be ashamed to go around...
Don Eaves
RV6
Finishing the Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Buid to fly Workshop |
eric, you obviously not started buiilding yet. won't take you but a few days
to see what's going on. and we contiune to learn. i'd say, order the tail and
not look back.
bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJaerosports(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Build to fly Workshop |
Erik
Why not contact other builders. Vans use to have a builders list for your
area. Also go out to the airport and find flying RVs and look HARD, take lots
of pictures ask questions, go to Fly-ins. Get in touch with the local EAA for
tech support. All of this is FREE, just takes a little effort. At the end you
will have made some great friends that you can fly with. I know I did.
Good Luck
Dwain Harris
RV-6 300hrs
So.Cal 6-Pack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Preferred side for rivets? |
I'm working with my rudder spar and not sure which side the shop head should
be on the spar. For the two upper reinforce plates, I put the shop head on
the front side (not the flange side) of the spar so the shop head is also on
the plate nuts. I haven't riveted on the horn, rib etc. yet. Should the shop
head be on the rudder horn side or the backside of the spar? I seem to
remember reading somewhere that the shop head should typically be on the
thicker of two different thickness of skin but can't find it anywhere.
I have also searched the archives and studied the Orndorff videos for
prepunched emp kits but this detail is left out.
Any ideas?
Are
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engines Out of Florida |
For what it's worth, I saw an engine that came out of Florida that had
to be rebuilt after about two (2) years. The bottom of the cylinders
were stamped "For Air Boat Use Only". This was sold to the individual by
an engine shop that was supposed to be reputable. I understand the owner
of the engine shop "offered" and was "responsive" to the individual who
was rebuilding his engine, but I don't think the matter has been
completely resolved yet - one way or another. Another note of interest
for potential engine purchasers - a two (2) year warranty isn't that
much if you only fly an average of 150 hrs./yr.
Suggestion - search the archives for Eustace Bowhay (sp?). He was very
helpful at one point in time when I was looking for an engine.
Blue Skies!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
Place the shop head on the thicker of the two pieces to be riveted. This
isn't always possible but try and follow this rule.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
i read somewhere that the shop head goes on the side of the thickest metal.
factory head = thinnest of the 2. if same does not matter. bob in arkansa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
Hello Bob,
I think that if you look it up again you will discover that you have some
how remembered the quote backwards.
The factory head when possible should be oriented to the thinnest material's
side.
When this can be done the shop head imparts mush less of a tendency to
distort the thin material.
If I'm wrong about this please feel free to correct me.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Preferred side for rivets?
>
> i read somewhere that the shop head goes on the side of the thickest
metal.
> factory head = thinnest of the 2. if same does not matter. bob in arkansa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
> > i read somewhere that the shop head goes on the side of the thickest
> metal.
> > factory head = thinnest of the 2. if same does not matter. bob in
arkansa
[snip]
> I think that if you look it up again you will discover that you have some
> how remembered the quote backwards.
> The factory head when possible should be oriented to the thinnest
material's
> side.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
Read it again -- you're both right. :-)
randall in portland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
> Bill wrote about the RV-9a paint job:
>
> snip
>
> >Uh, yeah....that's pretty much butt ugly.
>
> snip
>
> Great.....another critic.
>
> What's that about "if you can't say something nice..."
>
> Somebody put a lot of themselves into that work. You just said that work
was crap.
Well yeah, but to be fair, the web site does say "PAINT SCHEME---WHAT DO YOU
THINK OF IT?". Personally its not what I would pick but I like it better
than most of the other Van's paint jobs -- has more punch anyway.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
Put the shop head on the side that will allow you the best access to buck or
squeeze the perfect rivet. If both sides have the same access then put the
shop head on the side with the thicker material. Some times neither is
possible so this is not cast in stone, just general good building
practices.........Norman.......
Just for clarification, the I call the head that I make the shop head.. The
other I call the factory head.
> I'm working with my rudder spar and not sure which side the shop head
should
> be on the spar. For the two upper reinforce plates, I put the shop head on
> the front side (not the flange side) of the spar so the shop head is also
on
> the plate nuts. I haven't riveted on the horn, rib etc. yet. Should the
shop
> head be on the rudder horn side or the backside of the spar? I seem to
> remember reading somewhere that the shop head should typically be on the
> thicker of two different thickness of skin but can't find it anywhere.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine in orlando? |
In a message dated 6/22/00 3:03:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< ait-tec number is 407-839-4746 ask for dick waters, i got a d*@m good
engine
>>
How many hours do do have on this motor ? Any problems?
Walt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Initial Flight Testing Report |
| From: | Lawrence J Greeno <greenrv(at)juno.com> |
Randy,
Thanks for your excellent report. Now in the finish stage of a 6A, with
the same engine and prop, your comments are highly appreciated.
Larry Greeno
writes:
>
>
> Fellow Builders/Flyers,
>
> I now have a little over 7 hours on my airplane and I thought I'd
> provide
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
I called Van with this question when I first started....Ken said it's only
aesthetics, put whichever head whichever way you want.
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 1:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Preferred side for rivets?
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> I think that if you look it up again you will discover that you have some
> how remembered the quote backwards.
> The factory head when possible should be oriented to the thinnest
material's
> side.
> When this can be done the shop head imparts mush less of a tendency to
> distort the thin material.
>
> If I'm wrong about this please feel free to correct me.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 9:24 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Preferred side for rivets?
>
>
> >
> > i read somewhere that the shop head goes on the side of the thickest
> metal.
> > factory head = thinnest of the 2. if same does not matter. bob in
arkansa
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crosswind Landing Technique |
Randy:
The conventional wisdon in gusty crosswind conditions is a wheel landing. I
was doing them this way for the first couple of years and noticed that it
was hard to stick the landings like in some previous airplanes I had flown.
So one day I tried a three-point landing just for the heck of it. This
particular day was especially gusty and about a 90 degree crosswind. I was
amazed at how much more in control the landing was--against all conventional
wisdom. You kind of have to do the wing-low method in combo with a slight
crab (not too much) to affect this successfully, but it is definitely more
in control than the wheel landing. You might want to try this next time you
encounter these conditions. Now, if the wind is not gusty, I still prefer
the wheel landings for crosswinds.
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4 N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy J. Pflanzer <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Crosswind Landing Technique
>
> What technique are other RV flyers using when landing in a strong
crosswind?
> Do you still try to 3-point it in a cross-controlled manner or do you
wheel
> land it? What speeds and flap settings do you use?
>
> I could use a little advice. Went flying early this morning and when I
> returned, I had a very gusty crosswind. It wasn't pretty and I didn't
> scrape any paint off of it, but it was close. I'm pretty bummed about my
> lousy landing and I'm determined to get better.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (8.5 hours)
> Indianapolis, IN (UMP)
> http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
I just read about this last night (just received the tail feathers for my
RV-8). It said it doesn't matter at all. They said that usually they
prefer the shop head on the thicker piece even though they said that is not
as conventional.
- Bill in Tucson
RV-8 Q/B getting started
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Date: Thursday, June 22, 2000 9:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Preferred side for rivets?
>
>I'm working with my rudder spar and not sure which side the shop head
should
>be on the spar. For the two upper reinforce plates, I put the shop head on
>the front side (not the flange side) of the spar so the shop head is also
on
>the plate nuts. I haven't riveted on the horn, rib etc. yet. Should the
shop
>head be on the rudder horn side or the backside of the spar? I seem to
>remember reading somewhere that the shop head should typically be on the
>thicker of two different thickness of skin but can't find it anywhere.
>
>I have also searched the archives and studied the Orndorff videos for
>prepunched emp kits but this detail is left out.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Are
>RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
Or, "How do you like my new dress, honey?"
" I dont know, dear, I would have to see the dress without you in it"
K Shannon
Bachelor # three
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
ear.navy.mil>
> A couple weeks ago, Michael Harter, John King, and I flew to the Va.
>State Fly-in. I flew with John, in his plane, and we followed Michael. We
>flew off his aft stbd quarter (nautical talk) most of the way and Mikes
>transmissions were very weak and garbbled to the point, we could barely
>understand him. John said, they had experienced the problem before when
>flying in formation. We were well within visual distance of Mikes plane.
>If we changed position a little, the problem seemed to get better.
> Is this mearly a "positioning" problem? Both radios in question were
>built in and not handhelds.
It is not uncommon for closely positioned radios NOT to communicate
well with each other . . . the receivers are designed to pick very
tiny signals out of the etherial trash. After going to a lot of
trouble to hear the weak signals, the radio may be prone to overloading
from VERY strong signals. Try an experiment where you back off from
the transmitter that's difficult to hear in incerments. You may find
some separation where the receiver "recovers" and you can now hear
what used to be garbled. Further, radiation patters around an
airplane can have marked peaks and valleys in their intensity, you
may discover that your position in azimuth around the
> Speaking of handhelds, I saw in, one of the catalog's, an "amplifier"
>for handhelds. Are they worth the money to improve comms with a handheld?
>If I remember, they weren't cheap????
Generally these devices only boost your transmitter performance
although some may have receiving pre-amps built in too. By-in-large,
receivers in hand helds are nearly as capable as receivers in
panel-mounted radios when it comes to sensitivity. It may lack
capabilities in overload resistance but generally speaking there
is little gain to be realized by puting a pre-amp on a hand held
radio's receiver.
Transmit amplifiers will indeed make you heard further but there
are cautions. Low power hand held radios, because they are low
power, don't have to work so hard to suppress UNWANTED output from
their transmitters . . . and EVERY transmitter puts out energy
on frequencies other than the one you're using to communicate.
An amplifier will boost both the desired and undesired outputs
which may cause you to become a nuisance to folk using other
parts of the spectrum. An external antenna is much less expensive,
needs no power from ship's systems, and will generally let you
talk to any station you can hear.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
| Subject: | Crosswind landing technique |
There's a phenomenon that I've observed in my RV-4 that I've never read
about and was never taught when I was learning to fly (high wing) taildraggers.
With full flaps and the tail on the ground, there is an enormous amount
of ground effect on taildragger RVs. What this means is that even when
you get slowed down below flying speed, the weight on wheels is still
much less that 100%. At those speeds, there is not enough aileron
authority to tilt the lift vector into the wind to offset the crosswind
component, because the wheels are keeping the plane level; and aileron
deflection per se doesn't do squat in terms of putting a side force on
the airplane to counteract the crosswind component. The result is that
there is a speed regime where you can't do very much to keep the
airplane from being blown sideways.
You can minimize this effect in a couple of ways. One is to retract the
flaps as soon as you're well and truly on the ground. Another is to
wheel land and keep the tail up until as low a speed as possible.
Chances are that the old 3-point-or-else crop duster never saw this
phenomenon. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that angling across the
runway is probably not a good idea with a tailwheel -- my choice is to
land on the certerline, keep half the runway available in case a gust
weathercocks the plane, and half available if I get blown downwind, but
these arguments are rhetoric, not numerically based.
I fly tailwheel airplanes because I write pilot reports and want to stay
tailwheel current all the time. Other than that, when you consider
visibility over the nose taxiing, crosswind safety, the ability to land
at a higher angle of attack, and the ability to tolerate crosswinds when
the pilot is fatigued or otherwise at less than 100%, nosewheel wins on
all counts, and wins big. As for tailwheel "makes me a better pilot,"
that's a matter of discipline, both from your instructor and
self-discipline -- not the airplane. (Let the flames begin!!)
Ed Wischmeyer
500 hrs tailwheel and still learning
--
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
tel;work:425 376-2176
url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
Most of the time it really does not matter, except if you are riviting your
own wing spars.
Make sure the shop head is on the thin material when riviting wing spars. It
takes quite alot of effort to set these large rivets and you can cause the
thinner material to distort if the shop head is not on the thinnest of the
pieces being riveted.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RV-6 Fuselage Jig |
I have an RV-6/6A fuselage jig that I'll giveaway. You haul it it can have
it. Located in Casper, Wyoming.
Do not archieve
John Danielson
Fuselage
Finish kit ordered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Crosswind landing technique |
I agree with you totally on your procedure of landing in a crosswind. I
recently had to land in one that had 22kts with gusts to 38kts. 90 deg to
runway. It was the first time that I have been tested in and airplane. It
took four tries to get it down on the ground due to the turbulence from the
near by buildings. The Rv's are definitely very short coupled and have a mind
to wander on the ground. But the wheel landing technique is still the best
with dumping the flaps. also when rudder authority is being lost use the
brakes gently to help. You just have to stay on it. No dead feet.
I've been flying since I was 14 I'm now 63 and mostly in tail draggers,
except for the time in military and the airlines. I also have approx. 8300hrs
in tail draggers of all types. Never had a ground loop or runway excursion.
Back when I learned to fly that was all there was for the most part was
taildraggers and the instructors all taught wheel landings for crosswinds.
The bottom line however, is what are you comfortable with.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Crosswind Landing Technique |
> The conventional wisdon in gusty crosswind conditions is a wheel landing.
I
> was doing them this way for the first couple of years and noticed that it
> was hard to stick the landings like in some previous airplanes I had
flown.
> So one day I tried a three-point landing just for the heck of it. This
> particular day was especially gusty and about a 90 degree crosswind. I
was
> amazed at how much more in control the landing was--against all
conventional
> wisdom. You kind of have to do the wing-low method in combo with a slight
> crab (not too much) to affect this successfully, but it is definitely more
> in control than the wheel landing. You might want to try this next time
you
> encounter these conditions. Now, if the wind is not gusty, I still prefer
> the wheel landings for crosswinds.
Let me begin by saying that I have not flown my RV, but owned a Citabria for
a couple of years. I had two different instructors give me dual in this
plane, each recommended a different technique; one wheel landings and the
other three point as Pat recommends above. After trying them both I found,
just as Pat and Gary Sobek have found, that 3 pointers with proper cross
control worked best. When I say "best" I mean that it got the airplane on
the ground under control and stuck there. With wheel landings I ended up
using more runway and going through a period of vulnerability where gusts
could still pick me up or blow me around. You can see a picture of the
cross-controlled 3-point technique on my web site at
http://www.rv-8.com/pgPreviousAircraft.htm. In that plane I would literally
make it a two point landing... upwind main and tailwheel. Click on the pic
for a larger version and you can see the control positions. This particular
landing was
in about a 15 knot crosswind.
Bottom line, try both, use what works, but don't blindly adopt conventional
wisdom because you've heard from three of us that don't use it.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Back Country Airstrips |
I just got this from AOPA. Seems like a worthwhile exercise. It is
tailored to where I live but I would immagine that AOPA has a list of all
congressman and senators on their website or go here http://www.senate.gov/
http://www.house.gov/ And for a copy of the bill go here
http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c106:h.r.3661:
Ross Mickey
Contact Your Congressman and Senators Today!
Legislation before Congress will enhance the safety of your next flight! As
a pilot who probably spends most of your time flying over rural areas of the
western United States, I wanted to bring to your attention legislation that
will positively impact your ability to fly safely. The General Aviation
Access Act (H.R. 3661), authored by AOPA member Rep. Jim Hansen and
introduced in the Senate as S. 2707 by our good friend Senator Mike Crapo,
is now before the Congress, and it may just change the way you fly.
Federal land management agencies in Washington, D.C. have been trying to
close "backcountry" airstrips that are located on federal lands! In fact,
they are trying to do this without a public process and without the
knowledge and approval of State Aviation Departments. As you well know,
these remote dirt and grass airstrips play an important safety role as
emergency landing areas for pilots who fly in the western United States. If
a single engine aircraft loses its engine, an immediate landing is required.
In mountainous terrain, a "backcountry" airstrip could be the difference
between life and death for you and your passengers.
These bills will help protect your ability to safely travel across
mountainous terrain. Congressman Hansen and Senator Crapo's legislation
insists that federal land managers tell you when they propose closing
backcountry airstrips. The legislation would also require that you be given
time to tell your federal and state officials how you feel about a
backcountry airstrip closure in your state. Most importantly, individual
states would have the final word on backcountry airstrip closures, not some
federal bureaucrat.
We need you to contact your Senators and Congressman immediately! Tell them
to co-sponsor H.R. 3661/S. 2707. Tell them that it is imperative that
"backcountry" airstrips remain open and that landing strips should not be
closed without input from the users and without the approval of the head of
the Department of Aeronautics in the states where these airstrips are
located.
Contact Representative Peter DeFazio and your Senators, Ron Wyden and Gordon
H. Smith, by calling the Capitol switchboard at 202-224-3121. If you choose,
you may contact your Representative or Senator at the email or internet
address listed below. Tell them that you are one of their constituents,
provide your address and tell them that you want them to cosponsor the
General Aviation Access Act. Please help us stop the federal government from
closing any more of these important airstrips. Contact your elected
officials today.
Sincerely,
President, Aircraft Owners
And Pilots Association
peter.defazio(at)mail.house.gov
senator(at)wyden.senate.gov
oregon(at)gsmith.senate.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 6/22/00 7:11:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Anyone have anything bad to say about Aero sport? >>
Not complaining - only reporting! I still have faith in the engine!
1. Did not send oil dip stick with engine. Had to remind them three times
before I got it.
2. Did not include and install prop governor drive, oil return line and oil
plug in engine crank as agreed when engine was purchased. Didn't charge me
either but I had to acquire the parts and install my self. Would have much
preferred the trained and experienced engine people do this then trust it to
my inexperience.
3. Shipped wrong starter (wrong gear for ring gear on engine) and shipped
freight collect when the right starter was shipped.
Hoping to start the engine some time this summer and really check it out.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
After 80 something hours on the -6, I'm weaning off flying to just 3-4 days
a week so I can fix some minor things. Right now I'm concentrating on
correcting my RMI uMonitor. My carb temp probe always reads 19 C. A call
to Ron Mowrer at RMI lead me that all RV's experience this because the tight
cowling, close proximity of the exhaust and oil sump will cause the reading
at the top of the scale. Carb temp scale only goes -/+ 19 C. Is this what
others see? If not, then I'll start checking wire continuity. I did have
to replace the carb sensor cause at installation, the wires just pulled
right out. Maybe the replacement sensor also has loose wires. I didn't
dare pull on them.
While I'm here, I'm also calibrating the fuel flow. I set the unit to the
number included w/ the Flowscan when measured at 16 gph. The fuel flow read
a little high (9.5 gph @ 75%, O-320)then lately started jumping around but
mostly reading about 16 gph @ 75% power. I've since been adjusting this
calibration factor and still have'nt honed in exactly yet. But the random
jumping of flowrate seems to have stopped. Is this similar to what others
are seeing when using the stock calibration factor?
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 87 hrs since 1/16/00
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Well, the problem is solved. Bart made me a great deal this morning on an
-A1B6, so that's what I'm going to get. In a bit of pure serendipity, the -A1B6
is recommended by MT for their props and I received my RVator this morning with
the long-awaited MT prices. I'll be ordering one of the three-bladed MT props
next month. BTW, MT's lead time is 'only' 12-14 weeks vs. Hartzell's 20+.
Ken
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Glad I could help Ken. I guess the only difference will be whether or not
> you want to deal with the RPM restriction, and, IMHO, the slight difference
> in vibration. When I have flown aircraft with the two different engines I
> haven't been able to feel that much difference in the vibration levels. But
> then again I may be butt dead after flying in helicopters all these years.
>
> MIke R.
>
> >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
> >Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 14:32:52 -0400
> >
> >
> >Mike,
> >
> >Thanks for the info. Hartzell's website provided exactly what I needed.
> >According to them, the -C2YK (w/72" blades) has been paired with the -A1B6
> >on
> >the Socata TB-200 Tobago XL and with the -A1A on the Mooney M20 series.
> >So, it
> >looks as though each of the engine/prop combinations I'm considering has
> >had the
> >benefit of many thousands of hours of spam can time. With that in mind, I
> >need
> >to evaluate whether the -A1B6 would provide $2500 worth of additional,
> >counterweighted smoothness over the -A1A. Hmm...
> >
> >Ken
> >
> >Mike Robertson wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ken,
> > >
> > > There are two places you can look for this info. The Type Certificate
> >shows
> > > all prop engine pairing with any restrictions. Also Hartzell's website
> >has
> > > an area that also shows pairing by aircraft make and model. to include
> > > Glassairs, Lancairs, and RVs. The Type Certificate is available from
> > > anybody (A&P, IA) that has a library, or from the FSDO.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
your post reads in part......
3. Shipped wrong starter (wrong gear for ring gear on engine) and shipped
freight collect when the right starter was shipped.
Hoping to start the engine some time this summer and really check it out.
The rebuilder didn't start it to run it after the rebuild ?????
DWENSING(at)aol.com on 06/23/2000 12:48:31 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engines
In a message dated 6/22/00 7:11:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Anyone have anything bad to say about Aero sport? >>
Not complaining - only reporting! I still have faith in the engine!
1. Did not send oil dip stick with engine. Had to remind them three times
before I got it.
2. Did not include and install prop governor drive, oil return line and oil
plug in engine crank as agreed when engine was purchased. Didn't charge me
either but I had to acquire the parts and install my self. Would have much
preferred the trained and experienced engine people do this then trust it to
my inexperience.
3. Shipped wrong starter (wrong gear for ring gear on engine) and shipped
freight collect when the right starter was shipped.
Hoping to start the engine some time this summer and really check it out.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI Carb Temp |
Carb temp scale only goes -/+ 19 C. Is this what
>others see?
Mine reads +19 all the time. I was under the impression that it would blink
if there is fault.
My fuel flow does occasionally jump about. However the the fuel used and
what get at refueling is getting closer each calibration. Where it seems
to junp about is right after power changes.
My encoder OAT reads high while flying by several degrees. I located the
sensor in the NACA scoop. I insulated the backside from cabin temp. Has
anyone had trouble with the OAT reading high?
Good Day to You!
Denny- RV-6
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Don't forget you oil return line & drive setup for the oil pump (Oil Govener)
the prop needs...unless you go with the elect prop. Sounds like you have a sweet
set-up on the way.....good luck. Now come the confusion with the fuel
system...Bendix or Air Flow Performance ? Or Carburator ? Which ever way you
go be sure your rebuilder puts the correct Mechinical fuel pump on (Carb= lo
pressure--------injected one gets Hi Pressure pump. The Injected system also
gets a expensive external elect. pump. ( Dukes or Air Flow Performance is the
choice there.......
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net on 06/23/2000 01:29:57 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
Well, the problem is solved. Bart made me a great deal this morning on an
-A1B6, so that's what I'm going to get. In a bit of pure serendipity, the -A1B6
is recommended by MT for their props and I received my RVator this morning with
the long-awaited MT prices. I'll be ordering one of the three-bladed MT props
next month. BTW, MT's lead time is 'only' 12-14 weeks vs. Hartzell's 20+.
Ken
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Glad I could help Ken. I guess the only difference will be whether or not
> you want to deal with the RPM restriction, and, IMHO, the slight difference
> in vibration. When I have flown aircraft with the two different engines I
> haven't been able to feel that much difference in the vibration levels. But
> then again I may be butt dead after flying in helicopters all these years.
>
> MIke R.
>
> >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
> >Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 14:32:52 -0400
> >
> >
> >Mike,
> >
> >Thanks for the info. Hartzell's website provided exactly what I needed.
> >According to them, the -C2YK (w/72" blades) has been paired with the -A1B6
> >on
> >the Socata TB-200 Tobago XL and with the -A1A on the Mooney M20 series.
> >So, it
> >looks as though each of the engine/prop combinations I'm considering has
> >had the
> >benefit of many thousands of hours of spam can time. With that in mind, I
> >need
> >to evaluate whether the -A1B6 would provide $2500 worth of additional,
> >counterweighted smoothness over the -A1A. Hmm...
> >
> >Ken
> >
> >Mike Robertson wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ken,
> > >
> > > There are two places you can look for this info. The Type Certificate
> >shows
> > > all prop engine pairing with any restrictions. Also Hartzell's website
> >has
> > > an area that also shows pairing by aircraft make and model. to include
> > > Glassairs, Lancairs, and RVs. The Type Certificate is available from
> > > anybody (A&P, IA) that has a library, or from the FSDO.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: CG & SPIN data |
reposted & retitled for future archive searching
bruceme(at)seanet.com on 06/22/2000 11:56:10 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV3-List: Static RPM, Wing Incidence
I have slightly different numbers...
On a O-320-E2C converted to high compression 160hp and a 72x74 Warnke
static at 0 density alt 2,200.
best level speed at 0 density altitude is @ 2800 rpm and 210mph.
My elevator trip requires full aft trim to maintain 100mph. My CG is very
nose heavy, so this doesn't shock me. I usually trim for level flight at
120mph so I have some in reserve.
I can't sustain a spin for more than one revolution before it comes out on
it's own from the CG effects.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 6:16 AM
Subject: RV3-List: Static RPM, Wing Incidence
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> Just throwing out some data after reading some recent posts.
>
> My bare bones RV3: 68x72 Sterba prop, 150 hp 0320, barely 2,000 RPM at
> beginning of takeoff roll, about 2,800 RPM full throttle and leaned out @
> 8,000 ft and a little over 200 mph TAS , hot CHTs in 400's but not past
> redline, oil 160 to 190 degrees.
>
> I built by the manual and the 1 degree of wing incidence is probably a
> little too much. Elevator and trim is in perfect trail only at 100 mph
> requiring increased down trim at higher speeds. However, I run out of up
> trim with full flaps during landing.
>
> Gray Linzel
> 300 hrs RV3
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines Out of Florida |
> The best thing to do IMHO is to find a good core that has a straight
crank;
I believe this is the problem, isn't it?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Thanks, I'm looking forward to it (understatement of the year)! Bart (AeroSport)
will be equipping the engine with the oil return line, etc. for the governor.
I'm
going with the Airflow Performance fuel injection and the engine will be coming
with
both required fuel pumps. It'll be set up for the Christen inverted oil system
(which I'll supply from Van's catalog) and will be using the Lightspeed electronic
ignition system. I hope it works out to be as nifty as it sounds. I can't wait
to
fly this airplane!!
Ken
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Don't forget you oil return line & drive setup for the oil pump (Oil Govener)
> the prop needs...unless you go with the elect prop. Sounds like you have a sweet
> set-up on the way.....good luck. Now come the confusion with the fuel
> system...Bendix or Air Flow Performance ? Or Carburator ? Which ever way you
> go be sure your rebuilder puts the correct Mechinical fuel pump on (Carb= lo
> pressure--------injected one gets Hi Pressure pump. The Injected system also
> gets a expensive external elect. pump. ( Dukes or Air Flow Performance is the
> choice there.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 QB flap brace rivets. |
I am having difficulty installing some of the AN4 rivets that attach the flap
brace to the rear spar. I have checked the archives and read that it's
"possible", but my help and I might not have long enough arms. We might be
able to get them all in, but I am worried about not getting them driven
correctly. I am wondering if anyone has recommendations on blind rivets to
use and places to obtain appropriate blind rivets.
Thanks,
Greg King.
RV-8 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lear/Experimental Crash |
> Damn, Here in Boca Raton an experimental has just tangled with a
> Lear Jet. All
> perrished, the experimental is out of Willis' Glider Port, its a
> 50/50 chance of
> being an RV or a Giles, if its an RV then we have lost a local
> builder.
News reports we got here is that there was a parachute seen after the
collision. Probably not from the Lear, so maybe the experimental
driver got out?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crosswind landing technique |
I guess it shows just how low time a taildragger flyer I am. I didn't even
know that my original question would raise such controversy.
Thanks to all who have graciously offered their assistance. It sure makes
me feel a little better knowing that others have encountered a few bouncers
and side scrapers too. I took some of the advice with me today at lunch and
went up for about an hour of pattern work. Wind conditions weren't quite so
severe as yesterday but there was some crosswind. I experimented with no
flaps, 1/2 flaps, full flaps, crab then cross control, slip the entire final
approach, higher speed and normal speed landings.
Today's landing were much better. For me, the thought process is to
concentrate on adding more aileron as I slow. My tendency is to level out
in the flare and that's when it starts to drift over. I found that if I
concentrate on holding and then increasing aileron into the wind, I can stay
reasonably on center.
But once the rubber hits the road, you sure need to be up on the rudder
pedals because it's going to start moving around quick and you need to be
prepared for it.
All in all, I enjoy the challenge of improving my skills in this area. I
really believe that it makes me a more competent pilot. I won't even touch
on the various arguments regarding tailwheel and nosewheel pilots, skills,
etc. For me, the tailwheel is more challenging and I kind of enjoy that.
I'm sure that with more and more practice, I'll get it nailed.
Thanks again to all for your help.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (8.5 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 QB flap brace rivets. |
I just helped a local -6QB builder do this on his airplane. On the non-QB
kits the standard driven rivets are what are used...but unless you can find
someone with rug burns on their knuckles then you're out of luck on the
QB's. Use the Cherry N rivets (MSP-42) which work great for riveting the
flap brace. On the inboard section that overlaps the rear spar attach use
Cherrymax rivets. Your QB should have included a few of these.
One other note...make absolutely sure that the flange that goes against the
rear spar lays perfectly flat against the spar...tweaking is mandatory to
avoid the bottom skin from being bowed out when riveting. I had this
problem when I built my wings on my -6 and had to redo the flap brace...my
advice is to "overbend" the flap brace flange so that you have a very small
gap (which will close when you rivet) at the top insuring that the brace is
laying flat against the spar.
Hope this helps.
Bob Japundza
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Grking3(at)AOL.COM [mailto:Grking3(at)AOL.COM]
> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 2:32 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 QB flap brace rivets.
>
>
>
> I am having difficulty installing some of the AN4 rivets that
> attach the flap
> brace to the rear spar. I have checked the archives and read
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Man...I wish mine had come that wll equipped! Sounds great! A little side
note here that I jsut found out about on the Lightspeed ignition system. I
have it in mine and so far think it is a nice system. The only problem is
that it doesn't work with an aircraft type key switch without being modified
for an additional $75.00. How did I find that out you ask? Back towards
the back of the installation manual, which is in serious need of updating,
is a little blurb about the key switch and magnetos. That is long after the
installation and timeing instructions and is, more or less, in the
troubleshooting section. For my thoughts it should be up front where you
will see it before installing it. Then it doesn't say anything at all about
modifying the ignition module. I had to call Lightspeed and ask them about
this, then they told me about the mod.
Anyway, enough of my b*t*hing. But my engine start up has now been delayed
by a few weeks while I send the module back to Lightspeed. The patience
that I kept reminding myselg about is now wearing then and I want to fly.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Patience...Patience...Please!!!
>From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type
>Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:22:54 -0400
>
>
>Thanks, I'm looking forward to it (understatement of the year)! Bart
>(AeroSport)
>will be equipping the engine with the oil return line, etc. for the
>governor. I'm
>going with the Airflow Performance fuel injection and the engine will be
>coming with
>both required fuel pumps. It'll be set up for the Christen inverted oil
>system
>(which I'll supply from Van's catalog) and will be using the Lightspeed
>electronic
>ignition system. I hope it works out to be as nifty as it sounds. I can't
>wait to
>fly this airplane!!
>
>Ken
>
>pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Don't forget you oil return line & drive setup for the oil pump (Oil
>Govener)
> > the prop needs...unless you go with the elect prop. Sounds like you have
>a sweet
> > set-up on the way.....good luck. Now come the confusion with the fuel
> > system...Bendix or Air Flow Performance ? Or Carburator ? Which ever
>way you
> > go be sure your rebuilder puts the correct Mechinical fuel pump on
>(Carb= lo
> > pressure--------injected one gets Hi Pressure pump. The Injected system
>also
> > gets a expensive external elect. pump. ( Dukes or Air Flow Performance
>is the
> > choice there.......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Christen inverted oil system |
Regarding your Christen (now, Aviat) oil system: They want you to mount
the air/oil separator (slush bucket) as far to the right as practical
(the oil sump pick up is on the left) and as high above the sump as
practical. Depending on how much room you have and how low the cowl
fits over the engine, you have to make two sharp turns with the 3/4"
breather hose: one from the breather fitting on the engine to the
firewall mounted T-fitting and the other from the slush bucket to the
T-fitting. To prevent collapsing the the hose in these turns/bends,
most people need either one or two breather hose coils, part# 813-4,
from Aviat--they don't come with the standard kit--it's a 6-7" coiled
spring that fits inside the hose and prevents it from collapsing. Aviat
charges $20 a piece for these things which is outright theft. You may
be able to whip up something similar, locally, prob. for about $1 a piece.
The Lightspeed system is excellent. Sometime during a 2 hr flight, a
while back, during which I was doing some T & G's, a little acro and
some high altitude cruising, the Bendix mag stopped working (I do a mag
check at the start and end of each flight) and I never noticed any
change in the performance of the plane when it was running on the
Lightspeed, alone. Also, with the IO-540, I figure it saves me about 3
gph when it advances the spark at altitude.
Boyd.
>
> Thanks, I'm looking forward to it (understatement of the year)! Bart (AeroSport)
> will be equipping the engine with the oil return line, etc. for the governor.
I'm
> going with the Airflow Performance fuel injection and the engine will be coming
with
> both required fuel pumps. It'll be set up for the Christen inverted oil system
> (which I'll supply from Van's catalog) and will be using the Lightspeed electronic
> ignition system. I hope it works out to be as nifty as it sounds. I can't wait
to
> fly this airplane!!
>
> Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 QB flap brace rivets. |
You can use blind rivets here. I would recommend CherryMax. Expensive but
worth the peasce of mind IMHO. Acft Spruce has them but you may just want
to go to your FBO who will probably have a good assortment of them.
Mike Robertson
Rv-8A
>From: Grking3(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8 QB flap brace rivets.
>Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:32:26 EDT
>
>
>I am having difficulty installing some of the AN4 rivets that attach the
>flap
>brace to the rear spar. I have checked the archives and read that it's
>"possible", but my help and I might not have long enough arms. We might be
>able to get them all in, but I am worried about not getting them driven
>correctly. I am wondering if anyone has recommendations on blind rivets to
>use and places to obtain appropriate blind rivets.
>
>Thanks,
>Greg King.
>RV-8 QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stark Avionics |
Hi Tom,
So, what's John's contact info? I couldn't find him in the RV Yellow Pages.
Did his prices on UPS hardware beat Van's discounted OEM pricing?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
gear boxes
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
> List: Just a note to confirm what I heard on the list about a month ago.
> Just 3 weeks ago I ordered a Radio Stack from John the owner of Stark
> Avionics in Columbus, Ga. and it was here today prewired and ready to go.
> John has the best prices and service you are likely to find even on
> the harder equipment to get. My stack consists of 1) Garmin GS-430 2) Apollo
> SL-30 3) Garmin GTX-327 Transponder and the new PS-4000 Audio Panel
> (Smallest I have seen).
> It is nice to find someone who understands Kit Builders and delivers
> at 5% over cost. Examples: Garmin GS-430 $5990.00 --- Garmin GTX-327
> $1211.00 !!! Wire ea. radio in color not just white wire $50.00 ea.!
> Call John and send him some business if you have to buy radios in the
> future.
>
> Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type |
Good information, but it's OK with me as is because I'm not going with a key
switch. I'm going to use toggles for the mags and a start switch on an Infinity
grip. Easier to hit the starter, while holding the stick back and keeping one
hand on the throttle.
Ken
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Man...I wish mine had come that wll equipped! Sounds great! A little side
> note here that I jsut found out about on the Lightspeed ignition system. I
> have it in mine and so far think it is a nice system. The only problem is
> that it doesn't work with an aircraft type key switch without being modified
> for an additional $75.00. How did I find that out you ask? Back towards
> the back of the installation manual, which is in serious need of updating,
> is a little blurb about the key switch and magnetos. That is long after the
> installation and timeing instructions and is, more or less, in the
> troubleshooting section. For my thoughts it should be up front where you
> will see it before installing it. Then it doesn't say anything at all about
> modifying the ignition module. I had to call Lightspeed and ask them about
> this, then they told me about the mod.
> Anyway, enough of my b*t*hing. But my engine start up has now been delayed
> by a few weeks while I send the module back to Lightspeed. The patience
> that I kept reminding myselg about is now wearing then and I want to fly.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
> Patience...Patience...Please!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Ignition |
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Man...I wish mine had come that wll equipped! Sounds great! A little side
> note here that I jsut found out about on the Lightspeed ignition system. I
> have it in mine and so far think it is a nice system. The only problem is
> that it doesn't work with an aircraft type key switch without being modified
> for an additional $75.00. How did I find that out you ask? Back towards
> the back of the installation manual, which is in serious need of updating,
> is a little blurb about the key switch and magnetos. That is long after the
> installation and timeing instructions and is, more or less, in the
> troubleshooting section. For my thoughts it should be up front where you
> will see it before installing it. Then it doesn't say anything at all about
> modifying the ignition module. I had to call Lightspeed and ask them about
> this, then they told me about the mod.
> Anyway, enough of my b*t*hing. But my engine start up has now been delayed
> by a few weeks while I send the module back to Lightspeed. The patience
> that I kept reminding myselg about is now wearing then and I want to fly.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
> Patience...Patience...Please!!!
>
>
Mike's right about the Lightspeed ignition and a standard aircraft
spring-loaded key switch being incompatible. Klaus Savier, the
designer, recommends a pushbutton starter with a toggle switch/circuit
breaker for the Lightspeed system (Left) and a regular toggle switch for
the Right magneto, or you can pay for the mod.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stark Avionics |
sounds good
do you have a phone number or website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
Is anyone using a 76" prop on a RV6? are there any clearance problems? I
just received my McCauley C/S from the prop shop and they forgot to
shorten it The restrictions on RPM widen as the prop is shortened and I
would just as soon use it at 76" if it wouldn't be a problem.
http://community.webtv.net/BrooksRV6/ChrisBrooksRV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Christen inverted oil system |
bcbraem(at)home.com wrote:
Regarding your Christen (now, Aviat) oil system: They want you to mount
the air/oil separator (slush bucket) as far to the right as practical
(the oil sump pick up is on the left) and as high above the sump as
practical. Depending on how much room you have and how low the cowl
fits over the engine, you have to make two sharp turns with the 3/4"
breather hose: one from the breather fitting on the engine to the
firewall mounted T-fitting and the other from the slush bucket to the
T-fitting. To prevent collapsing the the hose in these turns/bends,
most people need either one or two breather hose coils, part# 813-4,
from Aviat--they don't come with the standard kit--it's a 6-7" coiled
spring that fits inside the hose and prevents it from collapsing. Aviat
charges $20 a piece for these things which is outright theft. You may
be able to whip up something similar, locally, prob. for about $1 a piece.
The Lightspeed system is excellent. Sometime during a 2 hr flight, a
while back, during which I was doing some T & G's, a little acro and
some high altitude cruising, the Bendix mag stopped working (I do a mag
check at the start and end of each flight) and I never noticed any
change in the performance of the plane when it was running on the
Lightspeed, alone. Also, with the IO-540, I figure it saves me about 3
gph when it advances the spark at altitude.
Boyd.
>
> >
> > Thanks, I'm looking forward to it (understatement of the year)! Bart (AeroSport)
> > will be equipping the engine with the oil return line, etc. for the governor.
I'm
> > going with the Airflow Performance fuel injection and the engine will be coming
with
> > both required fuel pumps. It'll be set up for the Christen inverted oil system
> > (which I'll supply from Van's catalog) and will be using the Lightspeed electronic
> > ignition system. I hope it works out to be as nifty as it sounds. I can't
wait to
> > fly this airplane!!
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Stark Avionics Contact Info |
I received my radios from John Stark this past week. I can't possibly say
enough good things about the customer service, pricing, and wiring that he did.
His pricing is simply the BEST I have seen. I received quotes from all of the
big avionics houses. His pricing even beat out Van's excellent pricing on
identical avionics. If you contact him, please tell him that you got his name
from the RV builders list.
-Glenn Gordon
Here is the contact info for John Stark:
John Stark
Stark Avionics
Airport Thwy
Columbus, GA
31909-2907
(706) 321-1008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 HS Center Rib |
I'm just about to skin my HS, and while I had the skins fittedfor
drilling I looked inside the 'D' section from the root side towards the
tip.
It looks like if I rivet the skin tight to the center rib at the
frontmost rivet it will pull the skin inside a straight line from the
root rib to the tip rib. In other words the LE radius will be too small
at the center rib.
Is this typical, and if so, how have other builders dealt with it?
Thanks all,
Chris Sheehan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stark Avionics |
> sounds good
> do you have a phone number or website
john stark aviation
706-321-1008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Lear/Experimental Crash |
Old Lear Jets had a parachute to assit in decelerating on landing. I doubt it
was from some pilot bailing out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I noticed someone having trouble deciding which MT prop to get now that Van
has published some estimated prices (plus shipping from
Germany)....fortunately I have a nice wood prop and don't need another
one....but....if I were debating which MT prop to buy I would again opt for
a wooden one and use the balance of the MT's price to take my wife along on
an around-the-world trip!!!
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Preferred side for rivets? |
you are correct i did have it badkwards. thats what i meant to say.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 HS Center Rib |
i finished mine last year but i need a better explaination of your problem.
sorry bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buid to fly Workshop |
Erik,
I went to the RV workshop at Griffin GA. a little over a year ago. I think
it is well worth the money as at the time I had no sheet metal experience. I
was amazed at the number of things I could screw up and learned a lot. I
then came home and started the empennage which went quite well. I have only
ordered extra parts for the elevator trim tab since. I highly recommend it.
Bill Christie, RV8A, finishing right wing, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Mister Murphy <mister_murphy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 7:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Buid to fly Workshop
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I was wondering if anyone on he list has had any experience with the
> Sportair Workshops for the RV, particularly, their Buid to Fly program, at
> www.buildtofly.com/rvbuildtofly.htm. Being new to RV construction, I would
> like the extra security (and confidence)that I'm doing things properly
from
> the start, instead of finding out later that I was not. Any comments are
> apreciated.
>
> Erik
>
> PS I tried to search the list archives but couldn't find anything on the
> build to fly program.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI Carb Temp |
My RMI carb. temp.always reads +19 degr. in flight and unless the OAT is
below 19C it does it on the ground as well.
I think that the carb temp probe measures more the carb. body temp than the
actual temp.inside the carb.
The probe itself does not seem to be suitable for this application.Anyway I
can live with this problem,but it would be nice to have it working
properly.....
cheers
Karl RV6AQ 50Hours
KARL AHAMER NSW AUSTRALIA
ASCOT(at)HINET.NET.AU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 HS Center Rib |
Chris,
Sometimes it just works out that way. These are called "puckers". A remedy
is to make a small aluminum shim with a dimpled #40 hole in it and just glue
it to the rib and rivet the skin on. This raises the skin and avoids the
"pucker".
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 4:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 HS Center Rib
>
> I'm just about to skin my HS, and while I had the skins fittedfor
> drilling I looked inside the 'D' section from the root side towards the
> tip.
>
> It looks like if I rivet the skin tight to the center rib at the
> frontmost rivet it will pull the skin inside a straight line from the
> root rib to the tip rib. In other words the LE radius will be too small
> at the center rib.
>
> Is this typical, and if so, how have other builders dealt with it?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Chris Sheehan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
I received my shirts today from Paul Brown today and they are excellent. The
shirts are high quality
and the logo is a real nice size.
Ed Cole
RV6A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stark Avionics |
Sorry!! John's number is 706-321-1008 (M-F 9-5)
----- Original Message -----
From: <CW9371(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 4:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stark Avionics
>
> sounds good
> do you have a phone number or website
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm nearing the end of the left elevator (sure I am) and have a few
questions that I can't find satisfactory answers to in the archive (to me,
at least). (1) Do I countersink the E-615PP reinforcing plate to mount the
platenuts? I've already riveted that plate to the skin along with stiffeners
and have bent the trailing edge. If I dimple the 615 then I'd have to dimple
the platenuts and I just can't see dimpling those tiny things. (2) Is it
generally accepted that the EET-602B servo supports are mismarked as to left
and right? I saw several references to that in the archive, but it doesn't
seem very Van-like to me. It seems that they only work if reversed.
Is there anything else about that area of the elevator anyone would like to
offer? I'd really like to finish it and move on to the QB fuse just sitting
there calling to me...
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC
RV-6A, left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
I saw the discussion in the archives about the New RV-9A's paint scheme.
I can assure everyone that it looks much better than it does in that
picture on the web site. I am going to try and get a closer up ground
photo posted so that you can all really see what it looks like.
After its first public display this weekend at the Home Wing fly-in, I'm
confident that people on the RV list who attend will say the same thing.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
I dimpled _all_ holes on 615PP. That is including the #6 screw dimples and
plate nuts. I dimpled the plate nuts with a special dimple (available from
Avery) that is made for tight fits. It was no problem at all. If you don't
do this, the rivets will go up against the elevator skin and you won't be
able to assemble it.
I also had to reverse the EE-602B brackets. It took me a long time playing
with all different configurations before I realized they HAD to be reversed.
It seems to me this has been known for quite some time so I don't understand
why the drawings haven't been updated to reflect the error.
Hope this helps,
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Dickson
Sent: June 23, 2000 8:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: trim tab stuff
I'm nearing the end of the left elevator (sure I am) and have a few
questions that I can't find satisfactory answers to in the archive (to me,
at least). (1) Do I countersink the E-615PP reinforcing plate to mount the
platenuts? I've already riveted that plate to the skin along with stiffeners
and have bent the trailing edge. If I dimple the 615 then I'd have to dimple
the platenuts and I just can't see dimpling those tiny things. (2) Is it
generally accepted that the EET-602B servo supports are mismarked as to left
and right? I saw several references to that in the archive, but it doesn't
seem very Van-like to me. It seems that they only work if reversed.
Is there anything else about that area of the elevator anyone would like to
offer? I'd really like to finish it and move on to the QB fuse just sitting
there calling to me...
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC
RV-6A, left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Insurance related |
To those whose asked me for quotes and I directed them to my website to fill
out the form I have to appologize as I am no longer able to recieve the quote
forms I found out tonight. My internet provider was bought out and all the
websites are being moved to the new companies servers. This was not suppose
to casue any problems, but apprently it has.
Therefore if anyone has filled out the quote form reciently, thats why I have
not responded. If you are still interested in a quote you will have to call
me or print off the app and mail or fax it to me.
Once again I am sorry for the inconvience and I will try to have this fixed
as soon as possible.
Chris Wilcox, President
CGW Insurance/Investments, Inc.
927 Apine Court
Oshkosh, WI 54901
(920) 235-1082
(920) 235-1083
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
Scott!!
Very glad to see you back on the list!
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 6:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-9A Prototype
>
> I saw the discussion in the archives about the New RV-9A's paint scheme.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: trim tab stuff |
In a message dated 6/23/00 7:54:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
bubba(at)coastalnet.com writes:
<< Is there anything else about that area of the elevator anyone would like to
offer? >>
Hi Robert,
(1) dimple the skin and the plate nuts.
As for other suggestions - here goes:
I put mine all together and the hooked the to white wires to a lawn mower
battery and ran it all the way out and then all the way in. I found that the
push rod made contact with the reinforcement plate at the most outward
position. After playing with it all night I finally figured out that I
needed to gain about 1/8" of height. I ended up using some scrap 0.125"
aluminum plate that I had laying around and made a couple of shims to place
between the brackets and the servo. The rod clears completely for the entire
travel now.
Hope this makes sense. If not, give me a call or write to me off the list
and try to explain it better or send you a picture.
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (reserved)
(Working on Wing Spars)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
A few days ago, I posted a note asking RVPaul to get in touch with me, because
I had not received a couple of shirts that I'd ordered, and I had been trying
to get in contact with him. He replied and apologized for the delay in sending
the shirts and said they would be coming soon via US Mail. Sure enough, they
arrived today, and they look doggone good! I asked him to pick out a nice scheme
for the RV-6 over the pocket and he did a nice light gray scheme w/side
stripe. Outer
Banks sportswear ain't nothing to sniff at...I feel I got my money's worth...just
thought I'd let everyone know "the rest of the story."
Oh yeah, I finished the VS tonite...and today I got a call from the trucking company
telling me that they would be able to deliver the crates with the wing kit
Monday afternoon....wooooooooooooooooo hooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!
John
HS and VS done...ready to put the stiffeners on the tail control surfaces...eager
to get into the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 6/23/00 1:09:27 PM Central Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< 3. Shipped wrong starter (wrong gear for ring gear on engine) and shipped
freight collect when the right starter was shipped.
Hoping to start the engine some time this summer and really check it out.
The rebuilder didn't start it to run it after the rebuild ?????
>>
Yes, it was run in the test cell but was shipped with the starter removed
from the engine. Perhaps they use a "test run" starter for the engine run and
not the new starter.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
In a message dated 6/23/00 8:15:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
smcdaniels(at)juno.com writes:
<< Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR >>
Glad to see you back on the list Scott. Have always appreciated your input.
Dale Ensing
6A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <houndsfour(at)mediaone.net> |
A short time ago there was a web page showing what N numbers were
available. I lost all that info and of course I need to send in for my N
number.
Rich T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
Go to http://www.landings.com/ At the bottom of the page there is a link to
the "Databases". There you can enter your N-number search. Be aware that
this is not an FAA data base and the numbers you will see available there,
are not necessarily available. You need a list of ten or so, then call OKC.
Good Luck,
Keith Hughes
Parker, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich <houndsfour(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 8:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
>
> A short time ago there was a web page showing what N numbers were
> available. I lost all that info and of course I need to send in for my N
> number.
> Rich T.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: [IAC] Fwd: [NBAA] Business jet down in Boca Raton |
----------
> From: Brian Howard <BK(at)NewAttAero.com>
> To: iac(at)gatekeeper.handmadesw.com
> Subject: [IAC] Fwd: [NBAA] Business jet down in Boca Raton
> Date: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:07 PM
>
>
> >Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 22:40:26 EDT
> >Subject: Re: [NBAA] Business jet down in Boca Raton
> >
> >4 Die in Florida Aircraft Collision
> >
> >By KARIN MEADOWS
> >.c The Associated Press
> >
> >
> >BOCA RATON, Fla. (AP) - A Lear jet and a small stunt plane collided and
> >crashed into a golf course community, killing the three people aboard
the jet
> >and the pilot of the second craft.
> >
> >No one on the ground was injured when the planes crashed in one heap and
> >burned inside the gated Boca Grove Plantation community and on the
adjoining
> >golf course, said Paul Miller, spokesman for the Palm Beach County
Sheriff's
> >Department.
> >
> >The cockpit and an engine from the Lear jet landed within feet of a
> >three-story condominium and the building was damaged by the ensuing
fire.
> >Residents, mostly elderly, were evacuated.
> >
> >Smaller debris landed on roofs and in yards in an area authorities said
> >spanned about one mile.
> >
> >The Lear jet had just taken off from Boca Raton Airport when it
apparently
> >hit the second aircraft, an Extra 300 one-seater coming from Willis
Flight
> >Port in Boynton Beach, about 10 miles north.
> >
> >The pilot of the stunt plane, a member of the U.S. Aerobatics team,
> >apparently tried to jump from his aircraft after the collision, and his
body
> >was found wrapped in a parachute, Miller said. It is not clear whether
his
> >parachute had deployed. Pilots flying stunt planes are required to wear
> >parachutes, Miller said.
> >
> >The larger plane ``looked like it split in half, the front half of the
plane
> >buckling underneath it and the thing basically dropped out of the sky
like a
> >rock,'' said Dean Kallan, who works in an office complex across the
street.
> >
> >Jack Shoenfelt, the Boca Grove Golf Course's pro, said there were about
30
> >players on the course when a large section of the plane crashed near the
17th
> >tee.
> >
> >Golfer and subdivision resident Edward Brill said a man and woman were
about
> >to tee off when the planes fell.
> >
> >``They said they didn't know which way to run,'' Brill said. ``It's
> >unbelievable no one on the ground got hurt.''
> >
> >The Lear 55, a twin-engine jet that can carry up to 13 people, is owned
by
> >Universal Jet Aviation Inc., a Boca Raton company, federal records show.
> >
> >The jet carried three Universal Jet employees - pilot Richard Smith,
co-pilot
> >Kevin Reyer and passenger William Bradley Moncrief. It was headed to
Fort
> >Pierce, about 80 miles to the north, to be painted, Miller said.
> >
> >The Extra 300 pilot was identified by friends and neighbors as John
Lillberg,
> >a member of the U.S. Aerobatics team since 1991 and a retired Pratt &
Whitney
> >engineer who had been flying since about 30 years.
> >
> >``He performed for and held competitions here,'' said neighbor and
fellow
> >pilot John Lobb. ``He was responsible. It's really a shock to us.''
> >
> >AP-NY-06-23-00 2234EDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Actually a good point......unless you do serious aerobatics ( multiple snap
rolls, etc) or need a reduced weight constant speed unit for weight and
balance the MT is a very expensive addition. But if you really want one and
have the money.....go for it.....it is a nice prop. A metal fixed pitch is
the lowest maintenance....and alittle more efficient then the wood prop,
although more expensive.
Chris
----------
> From: John <fasching(at)amigo.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: MT Prop
> Date: Friday, June 23, 2000 5:44 PM
>
>
> I noticed someone having trouble deciding which MT prop to get now that
Van
> has published some estimated prices (plus shipping from
> Germany)....fortunately I have a nice wood prop and don't need another
> one....but....if I were debating which MT prop to buy I would again opt
for
> a wooden one and use the balance of the MT's price to take my wife along
on
> an around-the-world trip!!!
>
> RV6A Flying
> Salida, CO
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Crosswind Landing Technique |
My Mother taught me: Never to speak unkind words.
Experience has taught me: Those who bad mouth another pilots landing
technique will someday himself be the subject.
Randy got the point: "I'm sure that with more and more practice, I'll get it
nailed."
He went out - He practiced - And with practice he will> "Get it nailed."
If Randy had a choice of another runway, at this point in his RV experience,
without a crosswind. He would land on it. So speaking of safety. The writer
in Flying started out his article with: "Learn to Color outside the lines".
With 8.5 hours experience it isn't time to test the limited skills of
anyone. But if you find yourself trying to land on the center line of a 100
ft wide runway. You can have that choice of another runway. The technique of
landing at a angle, into the wind, will reduce the cross wind component to
something you and your aircraft might better handle. It's OK to Color
outside the lines.
I forgot about one of my best techniques - Dumping the flaps - Yep others
have heard of it -
In my opinion - A tail wheel in the air can't steer you out of harms way.
So you loose one of the tools you have to control the tendency of a tail
wheel aircraft to ground loop.
I responded to this against all my experience in emails - It only throws
fuel on the fire - But I know those people personally and they get the point
when I don't respond. I don't know you all so with reluctance I respond...
Giving an opinion without stepping on those of others takes time,
thoughtfulness and effort...
My comments are not meant to be dis-crediting - If I offended anyone - I
apologize if this does...
Randy that is a beautiful airplane - After 8+ years of work, mine it is
almost ready to fly -
I will get some dual before embarking on a first flight - I would rather not
be the subject of hangar talk - Use what works best for you. And Never be
ashamed to go around...
Don Eaves
Don't Archive
-----Original Message-----
Crosswind Landing Technique:
My 2 cents worth:
Randy - All the techniques I have read thus far are very good.
Use what works best for you. Try them all and find out what makes you land
safely on a 90 degree full sock day. Practice Take offs as well.
A little background then one last tip:
Background:
I Use the technique Gary Sobek was taught & (one last tip) and found they
works best for me - I have about 1900+ hours and 2/3 are in tail draggers
spread over 20+ years - no ground loops - I keep praying! No Ground loops...
My instructor was Johnny Dore (Deceased) of Marigold Mississippi. He ran a
old time Crop Dusting School in Cubs and Stearmans - He would give you a
good chewing if he saw you wheel land. He wanted to see you land 3 point
with the tail wheel just slightly before the mains. And KEEP THAT STICK
BACK, FEET SOLID READY ON THE RUDDERS & BRAKES, HAND ON THE THROTTLE, READY
TO GO AROUND! Never be ashamed to go around... His theory was when you
wheel land you touch down at a speed above stall and are still flying and as
you lower the tail it is less effective. What keeps a tail dragger from
ground looping is a well planted tail wheel. He must of know what he was
talking about for I never knew of a student of his who ground looped while
under his watchful eye.
One last tip:
From an old Flying Magazine: Reduce the cross wind angle. How?
Most of us fly off of strips much wider than needed for our aircraft. So all
we need to do is visually note where we should be stopped on that 50 - 100
ft + wide runway and land in a slight angle more into the wind thus reducing
the cross wind angle. If you start to run out of runway just turn down the
runway and continue to stop. You can also use this technique when taking
off. Estimate how much runway you will need. Point it more into the wind and
takeoff.
Lastly:
A Landing without a bent Airplane or You - Will Do - This Time...
Don Eaves
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Size Avionics? |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
> ...riveting two angles to the panel to support the radios.
If these are the angles on the panel F603, I would strongly suggest they
be installed wth screws and nut plates. This will allow F603 to be
removed while the avionics are still tied together wth the angles and
still attached to F668. When you add more avioics, it will be a lot
easier ($$$) to unscrew the angles, drill them for the avionics and
reinstall. Be sure to consider "nut spacing" for the panel screws and
avionics tray screws!!!
> ...Is there an accepted "industry standard" for the spacing on these
> angles?
It must be 6.25. I spaced mine about 6.31, but then had to add shims for
my Apollo GX60 & SL70. The shims are a pain!
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk VA, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-6 HS Center Rib |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Had the same on the BH in the fuselage. I would shim as needed or it will
dip on you.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> I'm just about to skin my HS, and while I had the skins fittedfor
> drilling I looked inside the 'D' section from the root side towards
> the
> tip.
>
> It looks like if I rivet the skin tight to the center rib at the
> frontmost rivet it will pull the skin inside a straight line from
> the
> root rib to the tip rib. In other words the LE radius will be too
> small
> at the center rib.
>
> Is this typical, and if so, how have other builders dealt with it?
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Chris Sheehan
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Flexible Strip Lighting |
I'm looking at the JC Whitney catalog page 108. 12 volt flexible strip
lighting is available for indoor and outdoor use. The interior lights are
24" strips available in clear, amber, white, or smoke at $4.99 each
(Canadian catalog edition). I am planning a significant glairsheild on my
tip up and I would like to light my panel softly from under the edge with
two strips on a dimmer. What color should I try?
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A pictures on website |
C J Heitman wrote:
>
> RV-9A builders:
>
> There doesn't seem to be too many builder websites for the RV-9A yet, so
> last night I put a few pictures of my project up on my website. It is not
> meant to be a complete builder's log, just a few pictures that others might
> find of interest. I'm no webmaster, so please excuse the lack of fancy
> menus, etc.
>
Thanks for the wonderful pics and advice C.J. Great stuff.
Chuck Weyant
Just-Got-My-Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Don Jordan wrote:
> I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up to
> the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go with a
> joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper uses?
>
I guess you are talking about the filtered air box carb heat arm.
My hangar partner, Jim Barker, gave me two little special nuts. They may be
available from lawn mower or small engine shops. They are a sleeve
(cylinder)with a screw in the side. The sleeve slides over the control wire
and the set screw clamps the sleeve to the wire. One on one side of the arm
and one on the other. More like aviation than a joggle IMHO.
Another possibility which I have thought of but not tried is a spring clamp
made from a 1/2 inch by 1 inch bit of spring steel about 1/32 inch thick.
Fold the spring in half and drill a hole the size of the control wire. Put
the folded spring over the air box door control arm and insert the wire.
When the spring is released it should grip the wire. Or maybe make two
springs and put one either side of the arm.
Could also use an electrical butt connector cut in half with a half on
either side of the arm.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
Debonair for sale - see www.hal-kempthorne.com/N6134V.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
I'd use white. I wonder if these are like the 110V 'ropes' you see in home
stores? Somewhere, recently, I saw a tiny inverter for taking 12v to 110v
so one could use the ropes. Probably more expensive tho.
I am fooling around with a flourescent strip under the glareshield. I was
thinking that it would be a nice even light with low power draw.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | fuel injection vs carb heat |
Looking at the quote I got from aero sport, I see that fuel injection costs
an addtional $1600 for Bendix or $2100 for Air Flow Performance. If I go
that route, I see a couple advantages that may offset some of the cost as
well as easing the installation. I am sure there are things I'm not
thinking of, hence my post here....please those in the know, point out my
mistakes or lack of forethought.
Fuel injection :
- no carb heat - don't need to purchase the muff etc or run the cable saving
a bit of weight forward of CG where
the constant speed prop and (I)O-360 are already adding enough to an RV-4
- no carb ice
- no inverted sputter
- no carb ice
- less build time?
Carb:
- less money
- easier hot starting (I'm told with proper technique it isn't an issue)?
- low pressure fuel lines
- less money
Are there any costs involved or building necessary to put the injection on
the O-360 that I'm not aware of? It seems to me that the ability to leave
the carb heat off of my already 'cozy' RV-4 work area as well as one few
firewall hole plus the weight and build time issues makes $1600 not seem
like so much money. Is the Air Flow Performance system $500 better than the
bendix?
Bill
-4 fuse on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stark Avionics |
HCRV6(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/23/00 1:08:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
> << Call John and send him some business if you have to buy radios in the
> future. >>
>
> Can you post John's phone number?
>
Stark Avionics
Airport Thwy
Columbus, GA
31909-2907
(706) 321-1008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lear/Experimental Crash |
No, he did not make it out.
The a**holes at CNN showed footage of the crash just after it
happened, The camra stayed on the splatterd body laying in the
street for about 5 minutes.
I could not believe it, this person was somebody's father, son,
husband, brother and CNN plasters this all over the airwaves.
It was a sad day for the family,
It was a pathetic for our news media.
Craig Hiers
ews reports we got here is that there was a parachute seen after the
> collision. Probably not from the Lear, so maybe the experimental
> driver got out?
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
Gentlemen:
Am I missing something here? Seems to me that if you use white, you will
expose yourself to glare and refection off your canopy. Isn't that why most
instrument panel illumination is red? Inquiring minds want to know......
Regards
Jeff Orear
RV6A
riveting bottom skin, second wing
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Date: Saturday, June 24, 2000 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flexible Strip Lighting
>
>I'd use white. I wonder if these are like the 110V 'ropes' you see in
home
>stores? Somewhere, recently, I saw a tiny inverter for taking 12v to 110v
>so one could use the ropes. Probably more expensive tho.
>
>I am fooling around with a flourescent strip under the glareshield. I was
>thinking that it would be a nice even light with low power draw.
>
>hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
> I'm looking at the JC Whitney catalog page 108. 12 volt flexible strip
> lighting is available for indoor and outdoor use. The interior lights are
> 24" strips available in clear, amber, white, or smoke at $4.99 each
> (Canadian catalog edition). I am planning a significant glairsheild on my
> tip up and I would like to light my panel softly from under the edge with
> two strips on a dimmer. What color should I try?
>
> Regards,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
This si what I used and like it fine. I have a dimmer on it too. Used
white
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <jheath24(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
Red is used so as not to diminish night vision. It is the only color that
won't
JDHeath
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flexible Strip Lighting
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> Am I missing something here? Seems to me that if you use white, you will
> expose yourself to glare and refection off your canopy. Isn't that why
most
> instrument panel illumination is red? Inquiring minds want to know......
>
>
> Regards
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> riveting bottom skin, second wing
> Peshtigo, WI
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, June 24, 2000 2:02 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flexible Strip Lighting
>
>
> >
> >I'd use white. I wonder if these are like the 110V 'ropes' you see in
> home
> >stores? Somewhere, recently, I saw a tiny inverter for taking 12v to
110v
> >so one could use the ropes. Probably more expensive tho.
> >
> >I am fooling around with a flourescent strip under the glareshield. I
was
> >thinking that it would be a nice even light with low power draw.
> >
> >hal
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Gentlemen - The approved aircraft method of terminating a pushpull cable at
an item such as the carb heat door lever or cabin heat door is to use a
clevis (Vans Aircraft PN# F-453A) and a wire grip (PN# HW WIRE GRIP). The
joggled wire end method is great for lawn mowers and such but does not have
sufficent safety to prevent the cable from 'slipping' through and binding.
The screw in the nut method is also not reliable enough to depend on in the
air as there is no way to safety the screw from coming loose.
I hope this helps you finish a very reliable aircraft.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: carb heat
>
> Don Jordan wrote:
> > I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up to
> > the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go with
a
> > joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper uses?
> >
> I guess you are talking about the filtered air box carb heat arm.
> My hangar partner, Jim Barker, gave me two little special nuts. They may
be
> available from lawn mower or small engine shops. They are a sleeve
> (cylinder)with a screw in the side. The sleeve slides over the control
wire
> and the set screw clamps the sleeve to the wire. One on one side of the
arm
> and one on the other. More like aviation than a joggle IMHO.
>
> Another possibility which I have thought of but not tried is a spring
clamp
> made from a 1/2 inch by 1 inch bit of spring steel about 1/32 inch thick.
> Fold the spring in half and drill a hole the size of the control wire.
Put
> the folded spring over the air box door control arm and insert the wire.
> When the spring is released it should grip the wire. Or maybe make two
> springs and put one either side of the arm.
>
> Could also use an electrical butt connector cut in half with a half on
> either side of the arm.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK
> Debonair for sale - see www.hal-kempthorne.com/N6134V.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The VonDane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
Rich...
Check out the information I posted on my web site about getting an N-number:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado
RV-8A, N912V, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
----- Original Message -----
From: Rich <houndsfour(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 9:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
A short time ago there was a web page showing what N numbers were
available. I lost all that info and of course I need to send in for my N
number.
Rich T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 - N783MS First Start |
Lister's,
Today,
I started my IO-360 A1A for the first time on my 8A.
The engine had been run in on a club in a test cell (1.5 hours) by the
engine shop.
Any advise on break-in with these chrome cylinders
Well, it started in 2 blades.
I had a few issues to correct, but what a great feeling to see the prop turn
for the first time.
All the money, time, sweat etc. is worth it.
I can't wait to fly this machine.
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX
Flying soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
A joggle would probably work okay, but it isn't very elegant and you have to
get the joggle in the right place the first time. I use and recommend the
sleeve with the nut that someone else mentioned. You can get these at your
local model airplane hobby store. Great Planes makes one that is really
nice. They come two or three sets to a package for about $1.50. It is also
very easy to adjust precisely, and easy to remove for maintenance. I also
use these for the oil cooler door and cabin heat.
Someone else mentioned the wire grip and clevis, but *personally* I think
that's overkill for the carb air box. If it were a flight critical function
I wouldn't be using a wire cable anyway...
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: carb heat
>
> I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up to
> the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go with a
> joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper uses?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
> I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up to
> the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go with a
> joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper uses?
Page 179 of Tony Bingelis' "The Sportplane Builder" shows several
solutions. I used the "Alternate Swivel Fitting" solution, which is also
called the "bug nut" solution (I don't make up these names).
Basically, take an AN-3 bolt and run a plain (non-locking) nut all the
way down to the bottom of the thread. Drill a hole just above the nut.
The cable wire goes in this hole. Then an all-metal lock nut squeezes
the wire (not too tight!) against the plain nut.
I used this for heater controls and carb heat.
AC$ sells a version of this, part number 05-16100, for 95 cents. They
call it the "Bolt Type Terminal."
Tim Lewis
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
I started out with a rod end bearing threaded into a collet that cinched
down on the wire (both parts from Vans). The wire broke twice in 60 hrs and
I could only figure the mass from the bearing and collet was hanginog out
there on the end vibrating and caused the wire to fatigue and break.
Replaced the wire and changed to a "B" nut (ACS P/N 05-16240) and so far so
good. Lock tite on the set screw helps keep it in place, as well as bending
the wire over a bit where it pokes through the hole.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
----- Original Message -----
From: "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: carb heat
>
> Gentlemen - The approved aircraft method of terminating a pushpull cable
at
> an item such as the carb heat door lever or cabin heat door is to use a
> clevis (Vans Aircraft PN# F-453A) and a wire grip (PN# HW WIRE GRIP).
The
> joggled wire end method is great for lawn mowers and such but does not
have
> sufficent safety to prevent the cable from 'slipping' through and binding.
> The screw in the nut method is also not reliable enough to depend on in
the
> air as there is no way to safety the screw from coming loose.
>
> I hope this helps you finish a very reliable aircraft.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
> Southern Alberta
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 12:34 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: carb heat
>
>
> >
> > Don Jordan wrote:
> > > I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up
to
> > > the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go
with
> a
> > > joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper uses?
> > >
> > I guess you are talking about the filtered air box carb heat arm.
> > My hangar partner, Jim Barker, gave me two little special nuts. They
may
> be
> > available from lawn mower or small engine shops. They are a sleeve
> > (cylinder)with a screw in the side. The sleeve slides over the control
> wire
> > and the set screw clamps the sleeve to the wire. One on one side of the
> arm
> > and one on the other. More like aviation than a joggle IMHO.
> >
> > Another possibility which I have thought of but not tried is a spring
> clamp
> > made from a 1/2 inch by 1 inch bit of spring steel about 1/32 inch
thick.
> > Fold the spring in half and drill a hole the size of the control wire.
> Put
> > the folded spring over the air box door control arm and insert the wire.
> > When the spring is released it should grip the wire. Or maybe make two
> > springs and put one either side of the arm.
> >
> > Could also use an electrical butt connector cut in half with a half on
> > either side of the arm.
> >
> > Hal Kempthorne
> > RV6a N7HK
> > Debonair for sale - see www.hal-kempthorne.com/N6134V.html
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
> Am I missing something here? Seems to me that if you use white, you will
> expose yourself to glare and refection off your canopy. Isn't that why
most
> instrument panel illumination is red? Inquiring minds want to know......
Yes, the panel will be hidden from the canopy by a significant glairsheild.
It will not reflect onto the canopy at all. The strips are hidden underneath
and they are covered so that they can't shine back. The idea is to light
just to the bottom of the panel. If they are allowed to light the occupants
knees then they will be seen on the canopy. This style of panel lighting
will only work well if the light strips can get back a ways from the panel.
I'll do some tests when I select and purchase some light strips. I want to
start at 5" back. I have already tested and rejected a system of light bulbs
in this manner.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
PS - Do the latest military aircraft light with soft blue nowdays?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
I drilled a hole in an AN3 bolt and used two nuts to capture the wire. I
saw a drawing of this in the book "Firewall Forward."
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A baffles and cowl
-----Original Message-----
I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys
hooked it up to
the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or
do I go with a
joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper
uses?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Atkinson <tony_a(at)clear.net.nz> |
| Subject: | fuel injection vs carb heat |
Bill,
Another option would be an Ellison throttle body. I emailed them for some
price information but it bounced. How do listers find them in terms of
performance for price?
Tony Atkinson
Omarama,
New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Duckworks light install |
Well I havegood news and bad news. First the bad news. The leading edge on
my right wing is completed and riveted to the main spar and I forgot to
install the Duckworks light. Now the good news - the left wing leading edge
is drilled and clecoed but not riveted yet.
I would appreciate any advise from those who have installed the Duckworks
light in a completed installation (or those that did it during construction
nd would like to comment). Obviously my wing tips are not on yet so I can
still access through the lightening holes in the tip rib.
I also have the option of only going with the light in the left wing which
would possibly be a good idea to offset the weight of the Navaid servo to be
installed on the tip rib of the right wing.
Any thoughts or advise on either would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks light install |
Van's advised me not to buy the lights yet and that installing the kits in
the last bay on an already completed wing is really a no brainer. Unless
they were giving me faulty info, or you don't want to go that far out on the
wing with your lights...I wouldn't sweat it.
Bill
-4
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 11:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks light install
>
> Well I havegood news and bad news. First the bad news. The leading edge
on
> my right wing is completed and riveted to the main spar and I forgot to
> install the Duckworks light. Now the good news - the left wing leading
edge
> is drilled and clecoed but not riveted yet.
> I would appreciate any advise from those who have installed the Duckworks
> light in a completed installation (or those that did it during
construction
> nd would like to comment). Obviously my wing tips are not on yet so I can
> still access through the lightening holes in the tip rib.
> I also have the option of only going with the light in the left wing which
> would possibly be a good idea to offset the weight of the Navaid servo to
be
> installed on the tip rib of the right wing.
> Any thoughts or advise on either would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
> Eric's RV-6A
> Construction Page
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks light install |
In a message dated 6/25/00 12:33:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Van's advised me not to buy the lights yet and that installing the kits in
the last bay on an already completed wing is really a no brainer. Unless
they were giving me faulty info, or you don't want to go that far out on the
wing with your lights...I wouldn't sweat it.
Bill
-4 >>
I have installed one of these lights on a completed wing. Not a problem.
Make sure you run wires out there before you close the wing, or things get a
little more difficult.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks light install |
>
>Well I havegood news and bad news. First the bad news. The leading edge on
>my right wing is completed and riveted to the main spar and I forgot to
>install the Duckworks light. Now the good news - the left wing leading edge
>is drilled and clecoed but not riveted yet.
>I would appreciate any advise from those who have installed the Duckworks
>light in a completed installation (or those that did it during construction
>nd would like to comment). Obviously my wing tips are not on yet so I can
>still access through the lightening holes in the tip rib.
>I also have the option of only going with the light in the left wing which
>would possibly be a good idea to offset the weight of the Navaid servo to be
>installed on the tip rib of the right wing.
>Any thoughts or advise on either would be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
>RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
> Eric's RV-6A
>Construction Page
>
Eric,
I did the whole installation with the leading edge sitting on my
workbench, leading edge up. I did reach in through the lightening
holes in the tip rib, but I didn't need to reach in from the spar
area. So, you will need to stand on something, but I'm convinced
that you can do it on the right wing if you want. On the other hand,
only one would be lighter. You only need two if you want to do
alternate flashing for day time visibility, or if you are scared to
death of the thought of a bulb failure driving you to do a lights off
landing at night. I used to practice lights off landings when I was
in the military, and they are not a problem, if you practice them
once in a while.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
> I'd use white. I wonder if these are like the 110V 'ropes' you see in
home
> stores? Somewhere, recently, I saw a tiny inverter for taking 12v to
110v
> so one could use the ropes. Probably more expensive tho.
>
> I am fooling around with a flourescent strip under the glareshield. I was
> thinking that it would be a nice even light with low power draw.
Hal, where did you find the flourescent strip lights? The strip lights that
are in th JC Whitney catalog don't seem to be flourescent. I would rather
have flourescent than tungsten.........Norman.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey A. Hawkins" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Comm Antenna For Sale |
Hi Listers,
I have a Comant CI-121 comm antenna for sale. It's brand new and still in
box. This is the Straight one.
Price: $80.00 I'll pay shipping within the United States. Page 409 of the
Aircraft Spruce catalog has the specifics of this antenna.
First reply to jah(at)abraxis.com gets it.
Thanks,
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks light install |
In a message dated 6/25/00 8:51:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< would appreciate any advise from those who have installed the Duckworks
light in a completed installation (or those that did it during construction
nd would like to comment) >>
Eric: I installed mine in both wing outer bays before riveting the LEs to
the spar. I don't think it will be difficult to do with the LEs assembed
however. I did cut some large lightening holes in the mounting plates that
saved a few ounces in the dual installation. In a misguided attempt to get a
"perfect" fit of the lens to the wing skin by trying to work the aluminum to
conform to the lens (instead of the other way around) I wound up with some
small dimples in the skin around the lenses. I plan to fix that later at
painting time with some filler and maybe a little glass tape. I also placed
some 3" wide bright aluminum tape on the inside of the wing skin right above
the lens in hopes that it will reflect more light down for taxi light.
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit, about ready to start fitting the canopy (slider).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Sorry to use up the bandwidth but an email I sent to Paul Besing and it was
bounced by the system. If you are still on the list Paul, would you please
contact me? I have question about your panel lighting system.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
vwelch(at)knownet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
I have heard (second hand) that the airlines and military have been moving away
from the red lights and going to blue and green hues. The reds seem to hide
color. Anyways, can anyone in the airlines or military verify this?
I recently purchased strip lighting for my glaresheild / panel lighting. I
purchased from www.aeroenhancements.com
It uses the luminescent green flexible light strips, but they also provide a
dimmer for it as well as a 9V (6 hour) battery backup.
See for yourself, however I think their website is down at the moment.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
Hola,
When assembling the front spar for the empennage (RV8) I very carefully
measured and aligned the HS 810 and 814 angles to the HS-602 channels,
lovingly and gently clamped them together, sensuously drilled two
exquisite holes, and realized that the angles had the wrong spacing.
Oops.
Basically, I have a 3/32-inch hole in each 602 channel, .215 inches from
the actual hole and about 2.6 inches from the channel edge. There is no
corresponding hole in the 814 angle. Seems to me I have three options:
1) Drill the hole through the 814 angle and add another rivet. Violates
the 3x diameter spacing between holes.
2) Dimple the hole and place a shortened rivet in it to fill in the hole.
3) Order new 602 channels.
So as a basic metalworking question, what should be done with a small
extraneous hole in a piece of metal?
I realize this must be a common occurence, but I can't think of what to
search for in the archives, and I did not find any suggestions in
Wanttaja, Bingelis, or the manual.
Thanks in advance, looking forwards to feeling ever more stupid as the
project progresses,
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers: This a little of the subject, I am looking for a Carburetor
MA4SPA-32 for my project. Do any of you guys have a spare laying around
your shop.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB - Engine stuff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: carb heat
>
> > I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up to
> > the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go with
a
> > joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper uses?
>
> Page 179 of Tony Bingelis' "The Sportplane Builder" shows several
> solutions. I used the "Alternate Swivel Fitting" solution, which is also
> called the "bug nut" solution (I don't make up these names).
> Basically, take an AN-3 bolt and run a plain (non-locking) nut all the
> way down to the bottom of the thread. Drill a hole just above the nut.
> The cable wire goes in this hole. Then an all-metal lock nut squeezes
> the wire (not too tight!) against the plain nut.
>
> I used this for heater controls and carb heat.
>
> AC$ sells a version of this, part number 05-16100, for 95 cents. They
> call it the "Bolt Type Terminal."
>
> Tim Lewis
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Hola,
>
>When assembling the front spar for the empennage (RV8) I very carefully
>measured and aligned the HS 810 and 814 angles to the HS-602 channels,
>lovingly and gently clamped them together, sensuously drilled two
>exquisite holes, and realized that the angles had the wrong spacing.
>
> Oops.
>
>Basically, I have a 3/32-inch hole in each 602 channel, .215 inches from
>the actual hole and about 2.6 inches from the channel edge. There is no
>corresponding hole in the 814 angle. Seems to me I have three options:
>
>1) Drill the hole through the 814 angle and add another rivet. Violates
> the 3x diameter spacing between holes.
>
>2) Dimple the hole and place a shortened rivet in it to fill in the hole.
>
>3) Order new 602 channels.
>
>So as a basic metalworking question, what should be done with a small
>extraneous hole in a piece of metal?
>
>I realize this must be a common occurence, but I can't think of what to
>search for in the archives, and I did not find any suggestions in
>Wanttaja, Bingelis, or the manual.
>
>Thanks in advance, looking forwards to feeling ever more stupid as the
>project progresses,
>
>-Steve
>
Steve,
This is a critical area, so you should probably make up a little
drawing showing your situation and fax it to Van's.
You certainly don't want to violate the 3xdia criteria between
rivets, but you can probably get away with an unfilled hole that is
closer than 3xdia to a rivet. I'm not sure how close is OK though.
If you don't have any holes in the HS-810 or 814, you may be able to
add one rivet, and fudge the rivet spacing a bit to avoid the problem
area.
We all make mistakes. Sometimes you can add extra rivets without
violating any of the "rules". Sometimes you have to order a new
part. The parts are cheap, and you can usually move on to some other
assembly while waiting for the replacement to arrive.
Welcome to the club,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Fellow RVer's:
I, like am sure most of you, have followed Jon's record breaking flights
around the world since his first one in 1995. Not knowing Jon then I for one
had some mixed feelings about his first flight, wondering if he knew what
he was doing.
However since having met him and spending some time with him realize that
in him we have a truly amazing individual and probably one of the greatest
promoters for sport aviation and particularly for the experimental builders.
He has shown the world what can be done with a kit built aircraft.
While Jon has sponsors that help make these flights possible contributing to
material items such as avionics and fuel, in one of our discussions he
mentioned to me that his out if pocket expenses for one of these flights
run close to $20,000.00 Australian dollars. An example was his turn- around
costs at Eureka were $1500.00 for fuel lodging and landing fees.
As this will probably be his last major flight how do you feel about making
a contribution to his costs for this flight as a tribute to Jon for what he
has accomplished. I am thinking with around 800 of us on the list and say
half contribute if we each threw in $20.00 apiece it would take care of half
of his out of pocket. I would be willing to handle the fund for the list.
My idea would be to make out a check to Jon for what ever you are
comfortable with and mail it to me, put them all together and have Van
present them to Jon at the dinner at Oshkosh. What do you think?
This post will be the first Jon is aware of this.
Please reply of list and thanks Matt for the space.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
Do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
Vince, I can't remember quite what Paul said, but he will be offline for a
couple of months. I sort of remember this from about a month ago. Sorry to
be so vague.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
| Subject: | Need help shipping some stuff |
Folks -
I'm giving (as in free) a set of ancient RV-3 wing kit pieces to a
friend whose plane got boogered in an engine out event. Trouble is, he's
in Alabama and I'm in Seattle. The spars are built, and this is a wing
with tanks, so there are no long leading edges skins. Don't know if I'll
be shipping control surfaces or not.
Anybody got any ideas for getting these pieces to him inexpensively?
Like, maybe...
* Anybody in the Seattle area got their packing material from a wing kit?
* Anybody going from Seattle to Alabama?
* Any other ideas?
thanks
Ed Wischmeyer
--
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
tel;work:425 376-2176
url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need help shipping some stuff |
To bad you didn't ask this two days ago. A friend of mine just picked up a
vehicle in Seattle and is in the process right this minute of driving from
there to Orlando Florida....right through Alabama. He's a full day and a
half into the drive now...so it's too late. Bummer.
Bill
Orlando
> Folks -
>
> I'm giving (as in free) a set of ancient RV-3 wing kit pieces to a
> friend whose plane got boogered in an engine out event. Trouble is, he's
> in Alabama and I'm in Seattle. The spars are built, and this is a wing
> with tanks, so there are no long leading edges skins. Don't know if I'll
> be shipping control surfaces or not.
>
> Anybody got any ideas for getting these pieces to him inexpensively?
> Like, maybe...
> * Anybody in the Seattle area got their packing material from a wing kit?
> * Anybody going from Seattle to Alabama?
> * Any other ideas?
>
> thanks
>
> Ed Wischmeyer
>
>
> --
>
> NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
> insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
>
> - - - - - - - -
>
> Ed Wischmeyer
> Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
> Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
> name="edwisch.vcf"
> filename="edwisch.vcf"
>
> begin:vcard
> n:Wischmeyer;Ed
> tel;fax:425 898-9566
> tel;home:425 898-9856
> tel;work:425 376-2176
> url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
> adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
> version:2.1
> email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
> fn:Ed Wischmeyer
> end:vcard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Duckworth Lights Install |
To all who answered my question about installing the Duckworks Light in a
completed leading edge - thanks.
I just finished the install and it was a piece of cake. In fact most of the
stuff I did was through the lightening holes in the tip rib using 12 inch
drill bits and I would probably do it the same way even if the leading edge
was not attached to the spar. I did not need an angle drill or any other
special tools.
I have to say it would be a little difficult if the wing tips were already on
(but not impossible). For those of you that are waiting until completion to
put the lights in. I would advise you to do it prior to putting on the wing
tips.
Since this was sort of an oops for me, I'll detail the install on my web site
for future builders that have the same situation.
Thanks again to all for your advise.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:RV-8 Canopy mid Retention Block |
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
I have a friend building an -8, and we need some help on the Canopy Mid
Retention Block shown on drawing 44.
It states it should be located 23.5" aft of WD814D and is used to hold
the canopy 1/2 open. We cannot find a detailed drawing in the plans and
would appreciate some help with exactly how it attaches and how it
functions. Do you have to lift the canopy over the block to get it all
the way open or what? Is this something that you usually are not
bothering to put on. I have read that it is difficult to get the canopy
closed on the -8 if you don't have a back seater. We are assuming that
this block will hold the canopy so it may be easily reached if you are
flying solo.
Any advise you could give us would be appreciated. He is not on the list,
and I told him I would seek the wisdom of the list to find out.
Thanks in advance.
Wes Hays
RV6-A
Rotan, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
Glenn, do you mind if I ask how much you paid for that system?
Thanks, Norman.
> I recently purchased strip lighting for my glaresheild / panel lighting.
I
> purchased from www.aeroenhancements.com
> It uses the luminescent green flexible light strips, but they also
provide a
> dimmer for it as well as a 9V (6 hour) battery backup.
>
> See for yourself, however I think their website is down at the moment.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson |
Eustace, this is a wonderful idea!! So post your snail mail address as I am
unable to send a check with this e-mail! :)
And thanks for coming up with this idea and you willingness to handle the
account. Also, who should be the recipient??
Happy landings, always, Lothar|| 6A, latching mechanism in Colorado
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Jon Johanson
>
>Fellow RVer's:
>As this will probably be his last major flight how do you feel about making
>a contribution to his costs for this flight as a tribute to Jon for what he
>has accomplished. I am thinking with around 800 of us on the list and say
>half contribute if we each threw in $20.00 apiece it would take care of
half
>of his out of pocket. I would be willing to handle the fund for the list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
RV people, I am having a bit of trouble with a decision here. A while back
I decided not to leave the wingtips empty. I intend to either use them as
storage lockers for extra luggage (light stuff) or use them as fuel tanks.
I go back and forth, forth and back. The 0-360 in an RV-4 doesn't have a
huge range, so I can see a desire for more fuel....nor does it have a lot of
space for luggage....so I can see a desire for more cargo area.....
H-E-L-P!!
Those who are flying....which do you feel is more disturbing - a 600sm range
or lack of space? I have to say I'm leaning towards the fuel....but $1700
yikes.
Bill
-4 fuse on the way
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip usage |
In a message dated 6/25/2000 10:39:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< RV people, I am having a bit of trouble with a decision here. A while back
I decided not to leave the wingtips empty. I intend to either use them as
storage lockers for extra luggage (light stuff) or use them as fuel tanks.
I go back and forth, forth and back. The 0-360 in an RV-4 doesn't have a
huge range, so I can see a desire for more fuel....nor does it have a lot of
space for luggage....so I can see a desire for more cargo area.....
H-E-L-P!!
Those who are flying....which do you feel is more disturbing - a 600sm range
or lack of space? I have to say I'm leaning towards the fuel....but $1700
yikes.
Bill
-4 fuse on the way
>>
If your leaning towards fuel, you might want to think how long you want to be
up as in how long your butt and blader will last. My personally comfort zone
is 2 hours to 3 hours. I can go longer but that involves cutting back on
fluid intake or the porta potty thing. I cut back on fluid intake. Also
have a bad knee and my leg cramps up so ...
Its great if you airplane has the leggs for 4 or 5 hours of flight, but if
your never going to use it why bother.
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: -9 Wings oops |
Well I pulled my first boner on the wing kit, trying to be productive and
proficient, I primed ALL the steel nut plates after I inventoried the kit,
not yet realizing that some of them go inside the fuel tanks.....well its a
cheap fix anyhoo.
Kevin
-9
fuel tanks blunder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Prop Type Thanks |
Thanks to everyone who replied to my message. I really was hoping
that I would be able to use my IO360 B1B/72" c/s prop combination with no
restrictions. Alas, this is not the case. I am starting to wonder if I
want to spend the money for the prop if I can't cruise quietly (relatively)
with lower fuel consumption at 2100 rpm or so with high manifold pressure.
That was my main decision-driver for the c/s prop.
C/S prop users, am I worrying about nothing?
Ted
RV4 - Wings successfully check fit to fuselage this weekend!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip usage |
IMHO: I have 320 hours on my RV now with alot of cross flying. I have found
that flight legs of 2.5 - 3.5 hours are just about right. You can cover alot
of ground in 3 hours! After this amount of time flying I am READY to get
out, pee, and stretch!
I couldn't see spending that much cash , just so I could extend the legs to
5-6 hours,
(better install a "pee tube"!)
Walt RV-6A N79WH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip usage |
Also.... if you land less often, you will miss out on the oppportunity of
meeting alot of wonderful people that seem to inhabit most small airports!
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Problem with rivet gun. |
Dear subscribers,
I have a problem with my Avery 3x rivet gun. It will not run loaded, let me
explain further.
If I hold the gun in the air and squeeze the trigger it runs well. If I
place it on a hard surface I get one shot each time I pull the trigger. I
have stripped the gun and found no obvious problems and all looks clean and
bright. If someone can help it would be much appreciated.
Trevor Mills
80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson |
Eustace,
Jon is proving to the world that the RV series aircraft is the best there
is! Let's all become a part of Jon's endeavor and support him. We spend
more than $20 to go out to a movie that will eventually be lost in time.
Jon is making history!!
Where can we proudly send our support?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: lothar klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jon Johanson
>
> Eustace, this is a wonderful idea!! So post your snail mail address as I
am
> unable to send a check with this e-mail! :)
> And thanks for coming up with this idea and you willingness to handle the
> account. Also, who should be the recipient??
> Happy landings, always, Lothar|| 6A, latching mechanism in Colorado
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> To: rv list
> Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 4:36 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Jon Johanson
>
>
> >
> >Fellow RVer's:
>
> >As this will probably be his last major flight how do you feel about
making
> >a contribution to his costs for this flight as a tribute to Jon for what
he
> >has accomplished. I am thinking with around 800 of us on the list and
say
> >half contribute if we each threw in $20.00 apiece it would take care of
> half
> >of his out of pocket. I would be willing to handle the fund for the
list.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
| Subject: | Problem with rivet gun. |
What amount of pressure in PSI do you use?
And how many CFM's is your compressor rated at?
Also, I was reminded several times from reading articles and people telling
me that you should NOT run the rivet gun without it being held against a
hard surface. I'm not sure if this could have damaged it since I never
squeezed the trigger myself unless it was on a skin or my backrivet steel
plate etc.
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Mills [mailto:millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au]
Sent: June 26, 2000 4:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Problem with rivet gun.
Dear subscribers,
I have a problem with my Avery 3x rivet gun. It will not run loaded, let me
explain further.
If I hold the gun in the air and squeeze the trigger it runs well. If I
place it on a hard surface I get one shot each time I pull the trigger. I
have stripped the gun and found no obvious problems and all looks clean and
bright. If someone can help it would be much appreciated.
Trevor Mills
80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Duckworks light install |
-----Original Message-----
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM [SMTP:ENewton57(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:48
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks light install
They can be done on a completed wing, all of the people with quick builds have
the same problem. Not impossible.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem with rivet gun. |
Trevor
Have you checked the action of the piston in the shuttle valve? It should move
freely the entire range of the valve. I had a similar problem with my CP 3X
gun. After disassembling it a second time and looking very carefully (I used a
loupe), I found 1 very small piece of dirt caught in the most rearward hole in
the shuttle valving. There is only 1 hole in the valving at the rear. After
removing this obstruction, the gun works fine. You might want to try loading the
gun with a teaspoon of oil to try to flush whatever contaminants are in
there,out. It sure beats disassembling the gun.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 fuel tanks finished
Boca Raton, Fl.
>I have a problem with my Avery 3x rivet gun. It will not run loaded, let me
explain further.If I hold the >gun in the air and squeeze the trigger it runs
well. If I place it on a hard surface I get one shot each time >I pull the
trigger. I have stripped the gun and found no obvious problems and all looks
clean andbright. >If someone can help it would be much appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem with rivet gun. |
Trevor Mills wrote:
>
> Dear subscribers,
>
> I have a problem with my Avery 3x rivet gun. It will not run loaded, let me
> explain further.
>
> If I hold the gun in the air and squeeze the trigger it runs well. If I
> place it on a hard surface I get one shot each time I pull the trigger. I
> have stripped the gun and found no obvious problems and all looks clean and
> bright. If someone can help it would be much appreciated.
>
> Trevor Mills
> 80605
>
Call Bob Avery. He will talk you through it. He is the type person who loves
helping out a customer, and will fix your problems. They do need a load of air
tool oil. Other kinds tend to clog them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson Fund |
Looks like everyone likes the idea. While Oshkosh need no be a cut-off date
lets see if we can reach a goal of 400 for a Oshkosh presentation.
I will set up two accounts at our local bank one US and one Canadian in
Jon's name and deposit the checks directly to those accounts. Make the
checks payable to Jon Johanson and mail to
Eustace Bowhay
3331 Mc Bride Rd. RR#1
Blind Bay, B.C. VOE 1H1
I will keep a list of all the names and addresses for Jon and post a weekly
tally to the list.
Lets see if we can achieve the goal, looks like we are of to a great start.
Eustace
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: -9 Wings oops |
> Well I pulled my first boner on the wing kit, trying to be productive and
> proficient, I primed ALL the steel nut plates after I inventoried the kit,
> not yet realizing that some of them go inside the fuel tanks.....well its a
> cheap fix anyhoo.
> Kevin
> -9
> fuel tanks blunder
Kevin,
Simply cover the primed nutplates with ProSeal. Better yet replace them with
NAS1473-08 fuel tank nutplates. They are used on all certified aircraft fuel
tanks. They are expensive though.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 fuel tanks finished
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Problem with rivet gun. |
You can successfully test fire a rivet gun ( to test pressure, bleed line down
to new pressure setting((going from 1/8 to 3/32 inch rivets) and generally
exercise the trigger action) against a block of wood on a solid surface. It sure
does help when setting that row of rivets that show......
BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com on 06/26/2000 08:24:04 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Problem with rivet gun.
What amount of pressure in PSI do you use?
And how many CFM's is your compressor rated at?
Also, I was reminded several times from reading articles and people telling
me that you should NOT run the rivet gun without it being held against a
hard surface. I'm not sure if this could have damaged it since I never
squeezed the trigger myself unless it was on a skin or my backrivet steel
plate etc.
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Mills [mailto:millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au]
Sent: June 26, 2000 4:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Problem with rivet gun.
Dear subscribers,
I have a problem with my Avery 3x rivet gun. It will not run loaded, let me
explain further.
If I hold the gun in the air and squeeze the trigger it runs well. If I
place it on a hard surface I get one shot each time I pull the trigger. I
have stripped the gun and found no obvious problems and all looks clean and
bright. If someone can help it would be much appreciated.
Trevor Mills
80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:RV-8 Canopy mid Retention Block |
>
>
>I have a friend building an -8, and we need some help on the Canopy Mid
>Retention Block shown on drawing 44.
>It states it should be located 23.5" aft of WD814D and is used to hold
>the canopy 1/2 open. We cannot find a detailed drawing in the plans and
>would appreciate some help with exactly how it attaches and how it
>functions. Do you have to lift the canopy over the block to get it all
>the way open or what? Is this something that you usually are not
>bothering to put on. I have read that it is difficult to get the canopy
>closed on the -8 if you don't have a back seater. We are assuming that
>this block will hold the canopy so it may be easily reached if you are
>flying solo.
>
>Any advise you could give us would be appreciated. He is not on the list,
>and I told him I would seek the wisdom of the list to find out.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>Wes Hays
>RV6-A
>Rotan, TX
Wes,
This is a difficult installation to figure out and making it work reliably
is equally tricky. I used a small piece of alloy, about 1/8" thick and
screwed in place immediately outboard of the roller track so the forward
canopy bow bumps into it, thus holding it in place. Now, to get the canopy
to go over it I have to give it a quick shove and lift up on it and it pops
right over it. During taxi over a bumpy surface, it can also come loose and
slide back. Kerchunk. Making a positively locking latch of some sort in the
halfway position is something I want to figure out, but just haven't gotten
around to it yet. To keep the canopy from slamming aft, with the handle
slapping against the bulkhead, I just stuffed a four inch long piece of
black rubber heater hose into the canopy rail on one side, back snug against
the bulkhead (F807) so the roller bumps into it, prohibiting the canopy
latch from striking the bulkhead. This also makes it easier to reach back
and grab the canopy while solo, but it's still quite a reach back there to
get it. Loosening the shoulder straps is required to do this...along with a
flexible shoulder and lower spine!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
105 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
For submarines we stopped using red lights at night in the control room
years ago. It turns out low level white light has the least impact on night
vision. There was some testing done with blue but this did not demonstrate
any advantages.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (finish kit)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flexible Strip Lighting
>
> Glenn, do you mind if I ask how much you paid for that system?
> Thanks, Norman.
>
> > I recently purchased strip lighting for my glaresheild / panel lighting.
> I
> > purchased from www.aeroenhancements.com
> > It uses the luminescent green flexible light strips, but they also
> provide a
> > dimmer for it as well as a 9V (6 hour) battery backup.
> >
> > See for yourself, however I think their website is down at the moment.
> >
> > -Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem with rivet gun. |
Hi Trevor,
A couple of suggestions about your rivet gun:
1. The Taylor rivet guns are designed to run between 50 & 90 lbs. of
pressure. Any other pressures & you may experience erratic action.
2. Are is correct about the hard surface, but for clarification, the rivet
gun should not be run w/out a rivet set & retaining spring on it. If you took it
apart, you know that the piston is shaped like a heavy caliber bullet - it's
tapered at the nose where it contacts the rivet set. Running the gun w/out the
rivet set allows the piston to bottom out against the end of the barrel & can
deform it.
3. The 2x guns hit at a rate of about 25-2600 blows per minute. The rivet set
& retaining spring are designed to hit & then retract, contacting the piston &
forcing it back into the valving cylinders. The possibility exists that you may
be holding the set & rivet gun too hard against the work surface & not allowing
this to happen (works fine in the air, not against the work surface & why you
get only one hit).
4. As you stripped you gun down, make double sure that the barrel was on very
tight & the retaining pin inserted fully. If not, your barrel's going to work
loose shortly & that's not a generally good thing.
If the above doesn't help, pls. contact me off-line & we'll go over a couple of
other things.
Blue Skies!
Trevor Mills wrote:
>
> Dear subscribers,
>
> I have a problem with my Avery 3x rivet gun. It will not run loaded, let me
> explain further.
>
> If I hold the gun in the air and squeeze the trigger it runs well. If I
> place it on a hard surface I get one shot each time I pull the trigger. I
> have stripped the gun and found no obvious problems and all looks clean and
> bright. If someone can help it would be much appreciated.
>
> Trevor Mills
> 80605
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip usage |
Bill,
Why not both? Bill Plunck's RV-4 you rode in had additional wing tanks
behind the spar. Bill uses these for solo x-c. Looks simple to do. Then
you can have storage in the wing tips.
Rick
Melbourne
>From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Wingtip usage
>Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 23:27:23 -0400
>
>
>RV people, I am having a bit of trouble with a decision here. A while back
>I decided not to leave the wingtips empty. I intend to either use them as
>storage lockers for extra luggage (light stuff) or use them as fuel tanks.
>I go back and forth, forth and back. The 0-360 in an RV-4 doesn't have a
>huge range, so I can see a desire for more fuel....nor does it have a lot
>of
>space for luggage....so I can see a desire for more cargo area.....
>H-E-L-P!!
>
>Those who are flying....which do you feel is more disturbing - a 600sm
>range
>or lack of space? I have to say I'm leaning towards the fuel....but $1700
>yikes.
>
>Bill
>-4 fuse on the way
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> For submarines we stopped using red lights at night in the control room
> years ago. It turns out low level white light has the least impact on night
> vision. There was some testing done with blue but this did not demonstrate
> any advantages.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (finish kit)
> Vienna, VA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:58 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flexible Strip Lighting
>
> >
> > Glenn, do you mind if I ask how much you paid for that system?
> > Thanks, Norman.
> >
> > > I recently purchased strip lighting for my glaresheild / panel lighting.
> > I
> > > purchased from www.aeroenhancements.com
> > > It uses the luminescent green flexible light strips, but they also
> > provide a
> > > dimmer for it as well as a 9V (6 hour) battery backup.
> > >
> > > See for yourself, however I think their website is down at the moment.
> > >
> > > -Glenn Gordon
> >
> >
> Don't know about test results, but the USAF changed from red to white on my
> watch and my night flying ability increased a lot. The low level white is
> much much better for me. I was in B-52s at teh time and we had some mixed
> instruments for a while and finally they had to swap them around to get all
> one color per plane. In the meantime, you could observe teh difference and
> it was dramatic. One thing about B-52 flying........ you almost always got
> some night time on every mission, since we hardly ever flew less than 6 or 8
> hours. Ugh.
> My RV cockpit has no red lights except for my weird New Zealand fuel flow but
> it is as far over on the co pilot side as I could get it. I bet Matts fuel
> flow has the good light? Shoulda got Matronics
________________________________________________________________________________
The Hobby stores' model aircraft section carries small collars with set screws.
I used two collars with a small (almost pen size) compression spring , one
collar on each side of the arm. Works great & cost 89 cents........ Actually
the spring allows for some dampning.......something I am playing with. I would
probably NOT put the spring there, it add very little to the action. I will be
taking my spring thingie off the cable and just using the collars. (can you tell
I have too much time to tinker )
randallh(at)home.com on 05/25/2000 01:47:22 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: carb heat
I started out with a rod end bearing threaded into a collet that cinched
down on the wire (both parts from Vans). The wire broke twice in 60 hrs and
I could only figure the mass from the bearing and collet was hanginog out
there on the end vibrating and caused the wire to fatigue and break.
Replaced the wire and changed to a "B" nut (ACS P/N 05-16240) and so far so
good. Lock tite on the set screw helps keep it in place, as well as bending
the wire over a bit where it pokes through the hole.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
----- Original Message -----
From: "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: carb heat
>
> Gentlemen - The approved aircraft method of terminating a pushpull cable
at
> an item such as the carb heat door lever or cabin heat door is to use a
> clevis (Vans Aircraft PN# F-453A) and a wire grip (PN# HW WIRE GRIP).
The
> joggled wire end method is great for lawn mowers and such but does not
have
> sufficent safety to prevent the cable from 'slipping' through and binding.
> The screw in the nut method is also not reliable enough to depend on in
the
> air as there is no way to safety the screw from coming loose.
>
> I hope this helps you finish a very reliable aircraft.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
> Southern Alberta
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 12:34 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: carb heat
>
>
> >
> > Don Jordan wrote:
> > > I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up
to
> > > the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go
with
> a
> > > joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper uses?
> > >
> > I guess you are talking about the filtered air box carb heat arm.
> > My hangar partner, Jim Barker, gave me two little special nuts. They
may
> be
> > available from lawn mower or small engine shops. They are a sleeve
> > (cylinder)with a screw in the side. The sleeve slides over the control
> wire
> > and the set screw clamps the sleeve to the wire. One on one side of the
> arm
> > and one on the other. More like aviation than a joggle IMHO.
> >
> > Another possibility which I have thought of but not tried is a spring
> clamp
> > made from a 1/2 inch by 1 inch bit of spring steel about 1/32 inch
thick.
> > Fold the spring in half and drill a hole the size of the control wire.
> Put
> > the folded spring over the air box door control arm and insert the wire.
> > When the spring is released it should grip the wire. Or maybe make two
> > springs and put one either side of the arm.
> >
> > Could also use an electrical butt connector cut in half with a half on
> > either side of the arm.
> >
> > Hal Kempthorne
> > RV6a N7HK
> > Debonair for sale - see www.hal-kempthorne.com/N6134V.html
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
I am working on this, too. I ordered a wire grip from ACS (05-16000, catalog page
151) which adapts a straight wire to 10-32 threaded rod. An HF-3 rod end bearing
fits on the threads on the adapter.
Chris Browne
-6A Finish
Atlanta
>
> > >
> > > Don Jordan wrote:
> > > > I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up
> to
> > > > the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go
> with
> > a
> > > > joggle in the wire through a hole in the arm like my Snapper uses?
> > > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem with rivet gun. |
Fred Kunkel wrote:
>
>
> Hi Trevor,
>
> A couple of suggestions about your rivet gun:
>
> 1. The Taylor rivet guns are designed to run between 50 & 90 lbs. of
> pressure. Any other pressures & you may experience erratic action.
50-90 lbs??!??
I found the best pressure for 3/32 rivets to be in the 30-35 lb range,
and about 45-45 for 1/8" rivets.
I did manage to set a few skin rivets at 90 lbs when I picked up the
wrong air line......and it ain't a pretty sight.....
By the way, the generic gun I purchased from U.S. Industrial Tools
worked flawlessly for the entire project....at low pressures.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem with rivet gun. |
Hi Sam,
I agree with you 100% :) - something new on the list :). I use a CP-2x at
those same pressures. It's also why I mounted two regulators on my bench -
the one on the left is at 30 psi & the one on the right is at 90 psi. That
way I get more accurate pressure at the point I'm doing work & can avoid
(further) mistakes like you mentioned. I also don't need a heavy regulator on
the end of a tool.
With respect to the rivet gun operating pressures, I would refer you to both
Avery & Cleaveland's catalogs where they reference those pressures. Van's
construction manuals also discuss some different types of rivet guns & which
ones they consider to be acceptable. Just pointing out, & there's plenty of
reference material in the archives, that there can be significant differences
between rivet guns manufactured to set the same size rivets.
Blue Skies!
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Fred Kunkel wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Trevor,
> >
> > A couple of suggestions about your rivet gun:
> >
> > 1. The Taylor rivet guns are designed to run between 50 & 90 lbs. of
> > pressure. Any other pressures & you may experience erratic action.
>
>
>
> 50-90 lbs??!??
>
> I found the best pressure for 3/32 rivets to be in the 30-35 lb range,
> and about 45-45 for 1/8" rivets.
>
> I did manage to set a few skin rivets at 90 lbs when I picked up the
> wrong air line......and it ain't a pretty sight.....
>
> By the way, the generic gun I purchased from U.S. Industrial Tools
> worked flawlessly for the entire project....at low pressures.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Flexible Strip Lighting/Panel lighting |
Both the military and the airlines use subdued white lighting. Red is
pretty much a thing of the past as older pilots, in particular, have a
hard time reading dim, red lit instruments. Red lighting, turned up
bright, reflects off of canopies just as bad as white. I never saw any
blue or green lighting, though it certainly may exist on newer planes.
All of the military and commercial planes I flew used internal
instrument lights. An imbalance in the lighting between instruments
could be distracting, particularly in fighters - i.e., one instrument
way too dim or too bright compared to the others. Some fighters had
individual rheostats for each instrument, which solved the problem, but
that is an expensive and unnecessary option for RV use. Most military
and commercial planes had florescent strips or white incandescent floods
as emergency lights. For the VFR pilot with only infrequent night
requirements, florescent strips, "eyeball lights," map lights, or floods
would probably be adequate. Personally, I would not want florescent
strips, "eyeball lights", etc., as my only lighting source for serious
night instrument work. I would definitely want rheostat controled panel
lighting intensity, regardless of the source.
Interesting story. Early models of the F-4 had particularly bad cockpit
lighting. Most of it was red, but an occasional replacement instrument
would have white lighting which was really aggravating. Those of us who
regularly flew night missions in SEA used to remove selected bulbs and
use quantities of masking and/or duct tape to cover back lit panel
lights. Flying over Laos or NVN at night was as black as flying over
water and any cockpit light was distracting. So, in the combat area,
many of us turned all the cockpit lights out including the instrument
lights, and used a rheostat controlled map light to dimly shine directly
on the ADI and peripherally light the ASI, ALT and HSI. A floppy map
light or one that wouldn't hold its position under heavy Gs, was grounds
for an abort. Later models of the F-4 had white lighting and individual
rheostats for each individual flight instrument and each backlit sub-panel.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
How many others have had this arrangement break?
I have one on my carb heat and one on my mixture too. When I installed it,
it looked a little unsupported at the end and I wondered if it would last.
I'm very interested in hearing whether others have had the cable break as
well.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (9.5 hours)
Indianapolis, IN (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
> I started out with a rod end bearing threaded into a collet that cinched
> down on the wire (both parts from Vans). The wire broke twice in 60 hrs
and
> I could only figure the mass from the bearing and collet was hanginog out
> there on the end vibrating and caused the wire to fatigue and break.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Aymar-Demuth for sale |
Fellow Listers,
An off-list friend has a Aymar-Demuth wood prop for sale that was removed
from his 180 hp RV-6 for a Sensenich upgrade.
His name is Tom Berge and his number in Minneapolis is 612-541-9306.
Thanks
Doug
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Great Vendor Support |
I'm sure that most of you are (or will be) using a High Country Exhaust
system from Larry Vetterman.
This weekend, I noticed a strange vibration so I landed and pulled the
cowls. One of the exhaust support brackets (the 90 degree bent one) broke
right at the point where the end was smashed down for the bolt hole.
Called Larry (he answered the telephone on the second ring) and he offered
to send me a replacement at no cost. He mentioned that he no longer uses
this bracket system (which was manufactured by someone else) and has a new
one that he designed. He also offered to ship me the new system at his cost
this morning.
Great guy and very supportive of his product. Of course, most of you know
that already.
FYI, Larry reported only about 60 problems out of 1000 sets with the old
mounting system. The old system uses round tubing bend at 90 degrees to
connect/support the two exhaust pipes together at the stainless steel
clamps. If I understand the new system, the clamps are extended upward and
bent at 90 degrees. Then two straight tubes w/hoses are used to connect the
two exhaust pipes. (I think.)
If you have the older system, I wouldn't worry about it because it seems
that there are quite a few of them flying without problems. I did want
everyone to know of the new system just in case you encounter a problem.
Larry says he's been shipping the new system for about 6 months now.
Larry's number is (605) 745-5932. I found it in the RV Yellow Pages.
(Thanks Gary V.)
The point of my post is that I think Larry Vetterman (along with many
others) represents some of the best vendor support that we can hope to have
as we put our machines together. With some of the other news out there in
homebuilding land (Stoddard-Hamilton, et al.) I'm so thankful that I wasn't
left on my own to solve the problem. I intend to provide Larry with a
little "thank you" when I mail him a check.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (9.5 hours)
Indianapolis, IN (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne and Cindy <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | RV8A Gear Weldments/ Fuel tank attachment |
RV-8A Builders:
Any advise on how to get the nuts on the bolts holding the main gear weldments
to the spar carrythrough? My hands aren't small enough to reach in there!
I also have a question about the QB fuel tank attachment bolts (through the
spar). I see the bolts on the plans (#16), but the plans don't call for the
3 washers that Van's builders already installed. Are these simply for
shipping and need removing/replacing? (I have the notice letter, but it
suggests only the empty holes need bolts.)
Thanks.
Wayne Williams
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/25/00 2:18:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sjudd(at)ffd2.com
writes:
<< Drill the hole through the 814 angle and add another rivet. >>
Check with Van's via e-mail first but my guess is they will tell you to do
the above.
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:RV-8 Canopy mid Retention Block |
Wes,
I don't think you will find any better drawings than you have already
seen...at least I didn't. I came up with what I think is a better idea. I
installed a locking ball type pin in about same location. If you want a
back seater then you just pull out the pin.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List:RV-8 Canopy mid Retention Block
>Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:23:29 -0500
>
>
>I have a friend building an -8, and we need some help on the Canopy Mid
>Retention Block shown on drawing 44.
>It states it should be located 23.5" aft of WD814D and is used to hold
>the canopy 1/2 open. We cannot find a detailed drawing in the plans and
>would appreciate some help with exactly how it attaches and how it
>functions. Do you have to lift the canopy over the block to get it all
>the way open or what? Is this something that you usually are not
>bothering to put on. I have read that it is difficult to get the canopy
>closed on the -8 if you don't have a back seater. We are assuming that
>this block will hold the canopy so it may be easily reached if you are
>flying solo.
>
>Any advise you could give us would be appreciated. He is not on the list,
>and I told him I would seek the wisdom of the list to find out.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>Wes Hays
>RV6-A
>Rotan, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com> |
Yeah, I am on my second set of EE602B mounting brackets.
I did call Van's about dimpling the reinforcing bracket for the cover plate.
They said these are C'Sinked on the factory planes. You won't need to
dimple the platenuts if you do that.
I haven't mounted the 615PP cover yet. I'll probably just use oval heads
for the servo cover. Any loss to drag will be more than made up when I fair
the rudder cables/brackets.
Don Winters
RV-6
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Dickson
Sent: June 23, 2000 8:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: trim tab stuff
I'm nearing the end of the left elevator (sure I am) and have a few
questions that I can't find satisfactory answers to in the archive (to me,
at least). (1) Do I countersink the E-615PP reinforcing plate to mount the
platenuts? I've already riveted that plate to the skin along with stiffeners
and have bent the trailing edge. If I dimple the 615 then I'd have to dimple
the platenuts and I just can't see dimpling those tiny things. (2) Is it
generally accepted that the EET-602B servo supports are mismarked as to left
and right? I saw several references to that in the archive, but it doesn't
seem very Van-like to me. It seems that they only work if reversed.
Is there anything else about that area of the elevator anyone would like to
offer? I'd really like to finish it and move on to the QB fuse just sitting
there calling to me...
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC
RV-6A, left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
I bought a 12 v flourescent lantern (flashlight) - Coleman I believe and
ripped it apart. If you are interested, I'll look at it and send info on
how to hook up the circuit board to the tubes (dog simple!). It even works
on the dimmer circuit.
hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flexible Strip Lighting
>
> > I'd use white. I wonder if these are like the 110V 'ropes' you see in
> home
> > stores? Somewhere, recently, I saw a tiny inverter for taking 12v to
> 110v
> > so one could use the ropes. Probably more expensive tho.
> >
> > I am fooling around with a flourescent strip under the glareshield. I
was
> > thinking that it would be a nice even light with low power draw.
>
> Hal, where did you find the flourescent strip lights? The strip lights
that
> are in th JC Whitney catalog don't seem to be flourescent. I would rather
> have flourescent than tungsten.........Norman.......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Support Failures |
Randy,
I have the same mounting system as you. I pulled the cowl after my 25 hrs for
the 2nd oil change.
As I inspected under the cowl, I found that 3 of the 6 bent pieces of tubing had
failed at the bend. Two of the pieces had departed the airplane. One exhaust
was still secured, the other was unsupported. I usually grab the exhaust on
preflight, so I think it happened on the last flight before I pulled the cowls,
but I didn't feel any vibration.
I've since repaired/changed the design of his support system. I'd guess that other
people have done the same, and probably not call Larry on it, so he may not
know of all the failures that have occured. I wasn't sure about the mounting
scheme when I installed it, but I figured I give it a try first.
So far, this is the only other failure I've had in the first 25 hrs (the oil cooler
failure was the other).
Laird RV-6 (prepping for Arlington, arriving on Wed)
SoCal
snip
This weekend, I noticed a strange vibration so I landed and pulled the
cowls. One of the exhaust support brackets (the 90 degree bent one) broke
right at the point where the end was smashed down for the bolt hole.
Called Larry (he answered the telephone on the second ring) and he offered
to send me a replacement at no cost. He mentioned that he no longer uses
this bracket system (which was manufactured by someone else) and has a new
one that he designed. He also offered to ship me the new system at his cost
this morning.
Great guy and very supportive of his product. Of course, most of you know
that already.
FYI, Larry reported only about 60 problems out of 1000 sets with the old
mounting system. The old system uses round tubing bend at 90 degrees to
connect/support the two exhaust pipes together at the stainless steel
clamps. If I understand the new system, the clamps are extended upward and
bent at 90 degrees. Then two straight tubes w/hoses are used to connect the
two exhaust pipes. (I think.)
snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Gear Weldments/ Fuel tank attachment |
Wayne,
I just finished this up so I can tell you from very current experience. To
hold the nuts in order to get the lower bolts through I used a pair of 12
inch pliers with a slight curve to the jaws. They are usually available
from your local cheap tool house. I got a set of three for about $12.00.
Even then it took numerous unfriendly words, about two hours and a sore back
from being torques around like a pretzel to see the nuts.
For the bolts on the fuel tank, go witho however many washers you need to
get the proper torque. The best is to go with the lest amount necessary for
clearence and torque. Mine only had one waher on each nut and worked out
fine. My only kinda-sorta gripe here was that the message about the fuel
pickup bracket came out the day after I finished re-torqing and installing
all the bolts and screws and safetyhing the forward wing mounting bolt. Now
I get to take it all apart again. (sigh)
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Was almost finished
>From: Wayne and Cindy <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV8A Gear Weldments/ Fuel tank attachment
>Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 12:24:03 -0400
>
>
>RV-8A Builders:
>
>Any advise on how to get the nuts on the bolts holding the main gear
>weldments
>to the spar carrythrough? My hands aren't small enough to reach in there!
>
>I also have a question about the QB fuel tank attachment bolts (through the
>spar). I see the bolts on the plans (#16), but the plans don't call for the
>3 washers that Van's builders already installed. Are these simply for
>shipping and need removing/replacing? (I have the notice letter, but it
>suggests only the empty holes need bolts.)
>
>Thanks.
>
>Wayne Williams
>RV-8A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8A Gear Weldments/ Fuel tank attachment |
I realize that Van never, ever makes a booboo but one solution to the zone
where nuts won't go is to attach a strip of plate nuts **BEFORE** closing in
the area.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne and Cindy <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 9:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV8A Gear Weldments/ Fuel tank attachment
>
> RV-8A Builders:
>
> Any advise on how to get the nuts on the bolts holding the main gear
weldments
> to the spar carrythrough? My hands aren't small enough to reach in there!
>
> I also have a question about the QB fuel tank attachment bolts (through
the
> spar). I see the bolts on the plans (#16), but the plans don't call for
the
> 3 washers that Van's builders already installed. Are these simply for
> shipping and need removing/replacing? (I have the notice letter, but it
> suggests only the empty holes need bolts.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Wayne Williams
> RV-8A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trim tab stuff |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I actually ended up dimpling the reinforcing bracket and dimpling the
platenuts as well, even as small as they are. Since I had some extra
platenuts I decided I had nothing to lose in trying one. They dimpled very
nicely, and mate well with the dimpled plate. Now my next problem is that my
3" squeezer yoke is too big to set the rivets for the platenuts since I
wasn't smart enough to do it before riveting the plate to the skin and now
have to reach into the opening. Another tool purchase I guess...
Another question - is there a tried and true method to locating the EE602B
mounting brackets on the cover plate? The drawings don't show any
dimensions, and I can't see how to clamp the brackets and the servo in place
to see if my position is correct before drilling.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A QB (loitering at the trim tab)
----------
>From: Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com>
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RE: RV-List: trim tab stuff
>Date: Mon, Jun 26, 2000, 12:48 PM
>
>
> Yeah, I am on my second set of EE602B mounting brackets.
>
> I did call Van's about dimpling the reinforcing bracket for the cover plate.
> They said these are C'Sinked on the factory planes. You won't need to
> dimple the platenuts if you do that.
>
> I haven't mounted the 615PP cover yet. I'll probably just use oval heads
> for the servo cover. Any loss to drag will be more than made up when I fair
> the rudder cables/brackets.
>
> Don Winters
> RV-6
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Dickson
> Sent: June 23, 2000 8:43 PM
> To: rv list
> Subject: RV-List: trim tab stuff
>
>
> I'm nearing the end of the left elevator (sure I am) and have a few
> questions that I can't find satisfactory answers to in the archive (to me,
> at least). (1) Do I countersink the E-615PP reinforcing plate to mount the
> platenuts? I've already riveted that plate to the skin along with stiffeners
> and have bent the trailing edge. If I dimple the 615 then I'd have to dimple
> the platenuts and I just can't see dimpling those tiny things. (2) Is it
> generally accepted that the EET-602B servo supports are mismarked as to left
> and right? I saw several references to that in the archive, but it doesn't
> seem very Van-like to me. It seems that they only work if reversed.
> Is there anything else about that area of the elevator anyone would like to
> offer? I'd really like to finish it and move on to the QB fuse just sitting
> there calling to me...
>
> Robert Dickson
> Fayetteville NC
> RV-6A, left elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AV8R" <jhth(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:RV-8 Canopy mid Retention Block |
I recently rode in the back seat of a friends RV-8 that had the locking pin.
Very simple and works great, I plan on using a similar installation on my
aircraft.
John Hall
RV-8 QB
Canopy
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, June 26, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:RV-8 Canopy mid Retention Block
>
>Wes,
>
>I don't think you will find any better drawings than you have already
>seen...at least I didn't. I came up with what I think is a better idea. I
>installed a locking ball type pin in about same location. If you want a
>back seater then you just pull out the pin.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>
>
>>From: Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List:RV-8 Canopy mid Retention Block
>>Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:23:29 -0500
>>
>>
>>
>>I have a friend building an -8, and we need some help on the Canopy Mid
>>Retention Block shown on drawing 44.
>>It states it should be located 23.5" aft of WD814D and is used to hold
>>the canopy 1/2 open. We cannot find a detailed drawing in the plans and
>>would appreciate some help with exactly how it attaches and how it
>>functions. Do you have to lift the canopy over the block to get it all
>>the way open or what? Is this something that you usually are not
>>bothering to put on. I have read that it is difficult to get the canopy
>>closed on the -8 if you don't have a back seater. We are assuming that
>>this block will hold the canopy so it may be easily reached if you are
>>flying solo.
>>
>>Any advise you could give us would be appreciated. He is not on the list,
>>and I told him I would seek the wisdom of the list to find out.
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>Wes Hays
>>RV6-A
>>Rotan, TX
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | compressor soundproofing |
I have a Quincy compresor, which is relatively quiet, but I need to
make it even more quiet so I can work late at night. Has anybody
built a soundproof housing for their compressor? If so, what kind of
material did you use for soundproofing and how much space do you need
to leave around the compresssor to prevent overheating?
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A empennage
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-List (E-mail)"
| Subject: | Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand!
What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8? It seems
everyone has their throttle quadrant on the left and stick set up for the
right hand. But why? I learned to fly in a Cessna 140, left hand on the
yoke and right hand on the throttle. Was it because the Cubs, etc. had the
doors on the right side? Will my test pilot / instructor be able to fly my
8 if I have a right hand throttle? Oh well, I still have plenty of time to
ponder it, just starting to skin my HS.
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wood prop vs. metal prop |
Forgive me if I'm starting a long argumentative thread, but I didn't see any
discussions about this in the list archives.
I'm building a -6A and have read pros and cons of wood and metal props. The
metal is more robust, but the wood flies smoother. The metal needs less
maintenance; the wood needs to be retorqued and examined more thoroughly.
There's probably more, but you get the point. Would some of the people who
have first hand experience and strongly held beliefs please contact me
either on or off the list? Thanks.
Jim Bower
jimbower(at)sprintmail.com
RV-6A N143DJ - almost done with empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: compressor soundproofing |
>
> I have a Quincy compresor, which is relatively quiet, but I need to
> make it even more quiet so I can work late at night. Has anybody
> built a soundproof housing for their compressor? If so, what kind of
> material did you use for soundproofing and how much space do you need
> to leave around the compresssor to prevent overheating?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Schrimmer
Mark:
Enclosed my noisy oil-less compressor under the workbench (doors open in
front). Used acoustical ceiling panels (2 layers) to line the enclosure
(left back open to the wall for cooling air.... it still gets a little hot).
Drastically cut the noise and it is not a big problem to converse when it is
running.
Doug Weiler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
| Subject: | Air compressor suggestions... |
I've just ordered my preview plans after deciding to build the -8. I have
no air tools in my shop, but am getting ready to clean out the garage and
get things set up.
What should I look for in a compressor? I have room for one of those big
upright jobs, but what I am more concerned about is being semi-quiet for the
family and neighbors. The archives seem to recommend oiled compressors with
cast-iron (engines or tanks?).
Any suggestions, particularly brand/models? Something that runs 90 psi and
how many CFM would be best? Should I buy new, or is used okay (the archives
mentioned tanks rusting out as they get older... but how old?)
Any preference on brand of tools? I'm new to this, so please excuse my
"simple" questions!
Troy Whistman
Fort Worth, TX
-8 Preview (plans on the way!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: compressor soundproofing |
>
> I have a Quincy compresor, which is relatively quiet, but I need to
> make it even more quiet so I can work late at night. Has anybody
> built a soundproof housing for their compressor? If so, what kind of
> material did you use for soundproofing and how much space do you need
> to leave around the compresssor to prevent overheating?
I built a shack outside of the shop and have run air inside. It's a 60
gallon tank upright, the floor is probably about 30 inches square.
Vent
grills at the back and in the door for air flow through the compressor
head pulled by the fan-shaped belt pulley. With the larger tank it
doesn't run a lot, so heat build up is kept down.
Inside walls have 1" foam glued/stapled to them.
You would think a lot of sound would escape through the vent grills but
actually I guess the foam absorbs a lot.
BTW I used egg crate foam with the thought that the spikes would
approximate the material used in anechoic chambers (trapping reflected
sound waves).
YMMV
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip usage |
Bill
I would go with the storage personally, I have a 0-320 so I can probably fly
a bit longer but even so MY range is about three hours and I need a break,
so I don't fly anything longer than that. On the other hand most of the
trips I have taken so far have been under three hours total so range hasn't
really been an issue.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> RV people, I am having a bit of trouble with a decision here. A while
back
> I decided not to leave the wingtips empty. I intend to either use them as
> storage lockers for extra luggage (light stuff) or use them as fuel tanks.
> I go back and forth, forth and back. The 0-360 in an RV-4 doesn't have a
> huge range, so I can see a desire for more fuel....nor does it have a lot
of
> space for luggage....so I can see a desire for more cargo area.....
> H-E-L-P!!
>
> Those who are flying....which do you feel is more disturbing - a 600sm
range
> or lack of space? I have to say I'm leaning towards the fuel....but $1700
> yikes.
>
> Bill
> -4 fuse on the way
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
The French Ralley series of aircraft ( Like Beech sports, sundowners & Sierras)
have both a left & right throttle. I coppied it for a installation in a
experimental cap-10. It is simply a bellcrank arrangement like out aileron
torque tube assembly that allows two inputs and one output (to carb). I think
its overkill for a rv-8 but the side-by-side seating of a cap-10 and the Ralleys
did make sence,,,,,,and it was a simple system.
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com on 06/26/2000 02:22:40 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle???
Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand!
What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8? It seems
everyone has their throttle quadrant on the left and stick set up for the
right hand. But why? I learned to fly in a Cessna 140, left hand on the
yoke and right hand on the throttle. Was it because the Cubs, etc. had the
doors on the right side? Will my test pilot / instructor be able to fly my
8 if I have a right hand throttle? Oh well, I still have plenty of time to
ponder it, just starting to skin my HS.
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
I used the 'Longeron yoke' available from Avery for the entire servo/access
cover dimpling and riveting. It's working very well for this and many other
things. If you need another yoke, I would highly recommend it.
Are
RV-8
Now my next problem is that my
3" squeezer yoke is too big to set the rivets for the platenuts since I
wasn't smart enough to do it before riveting the plate to the skin and now
have to reach into the opening. Another tool purchase I guess...
Another question - is there a tried and true method to locating the EE602B
mounting brackets on the cover plate? The drawings don't show any
dimensions, and I can't see how to clamp the brackets and the servo in place
to see if my position is correct before drilling.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A QB (loitering at the trim tab)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: compressor soundproofing |
There is a great material that is designed to build custom A/C air ducts. It
is about 3/4" glass fiber on the inside with an aluminum foil backing on the
outside.
It is strong enough to build a box without any other structure to support
it.
Works great.
Sylvain Duford
Bellevue, WA
RV-8 (Fuselage)
N-130RV Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 11:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: compressor soundproofing
>
> I have a Quincy compresor, which is relatively quiet, but I need to
> make it even more quiet so I can work late at night. Has anybody
> built a soundproof housing for their compressor? If so, what kind of
> material did you use for soundproofing and how much space do you need
> to leave around the compresssor to prevent overheating?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winsted <rv6av8tor(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip usage |
Bill,
Im sure many folks on the list have no use/desire
for additional fuel on their aircraft. I chose to go
with the wing tip tanks sold by vans for several
reason. I too have a limited endurance with out
getting out and taking care of needs every 2-3 hours.
Ive done alot of flying and one thing I always wished
for is an aircraft with greater range. I like the
idea of having alot more options when flying cross
country (IFR or VFR) as far as weather alternates. I
like being able to make it to many of my favorite
destinations non-stop, with my personal limit of 1.5
hours of reserve fuel on board. I would like to do
some flying in Alaska and Canada and these will come
in handy. Not to mention you can buy gas where it is
cheap, still stop 2-3 hours down the road but not have
to buy gas. We do alot of this at work..."tankering
cheap fuel" to avoid more expensive gas stops. I also
think it will increase my resale value, it doesnt
limit the aerobatic capability (as long as they are
empty), and they are easier to install when initially
building. The down side is the price, but then again
your building "your" airplane. Get all the cool
things you want to go with your toy!!!!
Hope this helps...!!!!
--- Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> RV people, I am having a bit of trouble with a
> decision here. A while back
> I decided not to leave the wingtips empty. I intend
> to either use them as
> storage lockers for extra luggage (light stuff) or
> use them as fuel tanks.
> I go back and forth, forth and back. The 0-360 in
> an RV-4 doesn't have a
> huge range, so I can see a desire for more
> fuel....nor does it have a lot of
> space for luggage....so I can see a desire for more
> cargo area.....
> H-E-L-P!!
>
> Those who are flying....which do you feel is more
> disturbing - a 600sm range
> or lack of space? I have to say I'm leaning towards
> the fuel....but $1700
> yikes.
>
> Bill
> -4 fuse on the way
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type Thanks |
Hi Ted:
My observation over the years, to get the longest life from these small
engines the ideal power setting is 65% and not over 75 % except for
take-off with the manifold pressure no higher than the RPM. They seem to run
best between 2350 and 2500 RPM . I use 2400 and 24 inches for the first
power reduction after take-off and 2350-2400 and 21-22 inches for cruise. In
round figures this will give you 65 and 75% of rated power depending on OAT.
Running the engine with higher manifold pressure than RPM is what we call
"over square" and means higher cylinder pressures and temperatures resulting
in shorter cylinder life. This condition can not be avoided with a fixed
pitch prop during take-off and until the airspeed is high enough to allow
the engine to turn fast enough to be above your manifold pressure setting.
This is one of the prime reasons for running a constant speed prop which
gives you total control over your power settings.
Using these settings the RPM restrictions are not a concern on any of the
engines.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Lumpkin <tlump(at)mediaone.net>
Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Type Thanks
>
> Thanks to everyone who replied to my message. I really was hoping
>that I would be able to use my IO360 B1B/72" c/s prop combination with no
>restrictions. Alas, this is not the case. I am starting to wonder if I
>want to spend the money for the prop if I can't cruise quietly (relatively)
>with lower fuel consumption at 2100 rpm or so with high manifold pressure.
>That was my main decision-driver for the c/s prop.
> C/S prop users, am I worrying about nothing?
>
>Ted
>
>RV4 - Wings successfully check fit to fuselage this weekend!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winsted <rv6av8tor(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | King KMA-24 Audio Panel/Marker Bcn For Sale |
King KMA-24 Audio Panel For Sale. Like new condition,
includes built in marker beacon. Purchased yellow
tagged from avionics shop. In origional packaging from
dealer and includes instructions, manual, and install
kit. Change in panel design forces sale. All shipping
and insurance included in purchase price. Its yours
for $825.00
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winsted <rv6av8tor(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Flightcom Intercom For Sale |
New, still in box. Flightcom Model 403mc Voice
activated intercom. Includes install kit and jacks.
Purchased from chief avionics for $150. Will sell
including shipping and insurance for $125!! Only taken
out of box once!!
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Type Thanks |
In a message dated 6/25/00 10:33:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tlump(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I really was hoping
that I would be able to use my IO360 B1B/72" c/s prop combination with no
restrictions. Alas, this is not the case. I am starting to wonder if I
want to spend the money for the prop if I can't cruise quietly (relatively)
with lower fuel consumption at 2100 rpm or so with high manifold pressure.
That was my main decision-driver for the c/s prop.
C/S prop users, am I worrying about nothing? >>
Yes. Get the c/s and you won't be sorry. It really makes for easy high
density altitude takeoffs and helps with steep approaches to airports
surrounded by high terrain.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
I've just received some disappointing information to the effect that MT
props have a TBO in the vicinity of 500 hours. Can anyone confirm this?
What is the TBO of the Hartzell -C2YK?
I can't see spending 75% again the price of the Hartzell for the MT and
getting only a fraction of the useful life. I've really wanted the MT,
but I simply cannot justify it in light of this new information.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
still messing with those damned gear boxes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | MT prop TBO update |
I just spoke with an actual MT dealer and received the following
information: The TBO time for the MTV-12-B/175-17d I'm considering is
1500 hours or 5 years, whichever comes first. If the prop were to be
used in unlimited aerobatics, those times would be halved. Obviously
not applicable to our airplanes.
Whew! Guess I can go with that 3-bladed beauty after all. My wife will
be thrilled...not! :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
gear boxes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip usage |
This is true and seems to be the opinion of most of those who have responded
to my question. My only problem with this way of thought may be a
misunderstanding on my part of Van's specs. It says a 600sm range. At
200mph that's 3 hours until EMPTY (it had better cruise at 200 with an O-360
and constant speed or I'm going to pull all my hair out). Leaving in a 45
minute buffer zone that's 2 hours and 15 minutes of cruise range. I'm
thinking that's not a whole lot. Is Van referring to cruise range when he
says 600sm?
Bill
-4
> Bill
>
> I would go with the storage personally, I have a 0-320 so I can probably
fly
> a bit longer but even so MY range is about three hours and I need a break,
> so I don't fly anything longer than that. On the other hand most of the
> trips I have taken so far have been under three hours total so range
hasn't
> really been an issue.
>
> Joe Hine
> RV4 C-FYTQ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Wood prop vs. metal prop |
If there are no objections, I would be interested in seeing the answers on the
list.
Vince
RV-8A Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bower [SMTP:rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 2:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wood prop vs. metal prop
Forgive me if I'm starting a long argumentative thread, but I didn't see any
discussions about this in the list archives.
I'm building a -6A and have read pros and cons of wood and metal props. The
metal is more robust, but the wood flies smoother. The metal needs less
maintenance; the wood needs to be retorqued and examined more thoroughly.
There's probably more, but you get the point. Would some of the people who
have first hand experience and strongly held beliefs please contact me
either on or off the list? Thanks.
Jim Bower
jimbower(at)sprintmail.com
RV-6A N143DJ - almost done with empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
I called the number posted to the list and spoke with Stark Avionics today.
They have a website of sorts (www.mindspring.com/~jts7/starkav.html).
The gentleman I spoke with said that they charge RV builders list plus
5%. Their email address is jts7(at)mindspring.com.
Vince
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Stark Avionics CORRECTION |
I mistakenly typed LIST plust 5% in my previous post.................sorry about
that! I meant to type COST plus 5%.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop TBO? |
> I've just received some disappointing information to the effect that MT
> props have a TBO in the vicinity of 500 hours. Can anyone confirm this?
>
> What is the TBO of the Hartzell -C2YK?
Hartzel TBO is 6 years or 2,400 hrs, whichever comes first.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DJaerosports(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
Jack
Thats the beauty of building "YOUR" own plane. Put things where YOU want
and to hell with where others think it should be . A GOOD test pilot/
instuctor should be able to handle it. Now go back to work.
Dwain
RV-6
325 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | compressor soundproofing |
I bought a rubbermaid shed large enough to hold my compressor and lined it
with ordinary house insulation. There is about six inches of air space
around the compressor. I installed a duplex outlet in the shed controlled
by a circuit breaker in the garage. Two four inch holes were cut into
opposite walls and fitted with plastic dryer vent covers from home depot.
I placed screen inside of the vent covers to keep insects out. I
purchased a bathroom exhaust fan ($9.00) and mounted it on the inside
against one hole. The vent fan is plugged into one outlet and the
compressor is plugged into the other. When I turn the circuit breaker on
it starts the compressor and the fan. The compressor has been running for
a year now with no problems.
The shed is outside of my garage with a hole cut through the wall for the
air line and romex. I keep the compressor set at 120 psig and have a
regulator on the air line inside of the garage. Its quiet inside of the
garage and outside it is no louder than my heat pump compressor.
Vince Welch
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Schrimmer [SMTP:mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 2:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: compressor soundproofing
I have a Quincy compresor, which is relatively quiet, but I need to
make it even more quiet so I can work late at night. Has anybody
built a soundproof housing for their compressor? If so, what kind of
material did you use for soundproofing and how much space do you need
to leave around the compresssor to prevent overheating?
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A empennage
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wood prop vs. metal prop |
>
>
>If there are no objections, I would be interested in seeing the answers on
>the list.
>
>Vince
>RV-8A Wings
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Bower [SMTP:rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com]
>Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 2:25 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wood prop vs. metal prop
>
>
>Forgive me if I'm starting a long argumentative thread, but I didn't see
>any
>discussions about this in the list archives.
>
>I'm building a -6A and have read pros and cons of wood and metal props.
>The
>metal is more robust, but the wood flies smoother. The metal needs less
>maintenance; the wood needs to be retorqued and examined more thoroughly.
>There's probably more, but you get the point. Would some of the people who
>have first hand experience and strongly held beliefs please contact me
>either on or off the list? Thanks.
>
>Jim Bower
I chose the Sensenich metal prop for my O-360 RV8 primarily for durability,
ease of maintenance and rain resistance. I also like the flywheel effect it
has at idle. It is heavy, that's for sure, so it can help or hurt the CG
depending on your unique aircraft configuration. They are more expensive
than the wooden props I've looked at, which can almost make one consider
just biting the financial bullet and buying a Hartzell. There are no best
choices, just what works best for YOUR airplane so choose the prop that best
suits your mission and finances.
Good luck in your decision.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
105 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
I am curious about the feasibility of a turbine installation in an RV-8
Your not listening to this, are you Van?
At this point, I don't even know enough about turbines to kill myself. (Lots
of gas, lots of power, and a wee bit of money) Is there anyone on the list
who can talk generally about turbines, or perhaps direct me to folks who
can?
As far as I know, some of the initial concerns are:
weight & balance issues with a lighter engine, (but a heavy prop)
fuel capacity - any reasons why a standard RV fuel tank can't be extended to
the tip?
strength issues of the airframe being suitable for a significantly greater
amount of torque
control issues of additional torque (perhaps a bigger rudder)?
What mods were made to the RV-4 to accomodate the weight and torque of the
0-540 engines?
This is all very speculative at this point. Perhaps if the big issues turn
out to be small ones, then the small issues can be dealt with in time.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RAINPOOF(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | 0-320 E-2D --Constant-speed? |
I am currently flying with an 0-320 E-2D in my 6A and would like to know if
it is possible to put a constant-speed prop on this other than the MT
Electric. Would I have to change the cowl? spinner? I use to have the book
that would tell me this but seemed to have missplaced it.
Jerry
Flying RV-6
Building RV-9A (and yes I did see the new 9A at Scapoose on Saturday)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>
>I am curious about the feasibility of a turbine installation in an RV-8
>
>Your not listening to this, are you Van?
>
>At this point, I don't even know enough about turbines to kill myself. (Lots
>of gas, lots of power, and a wee bit of money) Is there anyone on the list
>who can talk generally about turbines, or perhaps direct me to folks who
>can?
>
>As far as I know, some of the initial concerns are:
>weight & balance issues with a lighter engine, (but a heavy prop)
>
>fuel capacity - any reasons why a standard RV fuel tank can't be extended to
>the tip?
>
>strength issues of the airframe being suitable for a significantly greater
>amount of torque
>
>control issues of additional torque (perhaps a bigger rudder)?
>
>What mods were made to the RV-4 to accomodate the weight and torque of the
>0-540 engines?
>
>This is all very speculative at this point. Perhaps if the big issues turn
>out to be small ones, then the small issues can be dealt with in time.
>
>Andy
>
Hmm - one of the big advantages to the RV series, in my opinion, is
the fact that they are very well engineered, from a structural point
of view. You would be throwing all that away, unless you could spend
big bucks and redo all the structural engineering. You certainly
could bolt on some sort of turbine (small Allison?) on an extended
nose (for CG), add extra fuel, bigger vertical tail, and hope it all
worked out.
You might need bigger ailerons too. Some one put a small Allison
turbo-prop on a Bucker Jungmeister a few years ago to set some time
to climb records. He found that he had to limit the power used for
takeoff, or he ran out of aileron once he lifted off. He could
gradually feed in the power as the airspeed built, sort of holding
full aileron and modulating the power to control the bank. The write
up was in a couple of Sport Aviation articles from about 1988-89.
You have to ask yourself what the mission of the aircraft would be
though. If you intended to fly around at low altitude, you would
probably be flying at well over the designed VNE, with the attendant
risk of flutter. If you want to fly at high altitude, you might be
better off going with some sort of turbo-normalized piston engine.
The power output of turboprops falls off with altitude, just like a
normally aspirated piston engine. You might get as much power at
altitude from a turbo-normalized piston engine as with the turbo-prop.
Just to stave off questions from some listers - a turbo-normalized
engine is one where the purpose of the turbo is to allow sea level
power to be achieved at higher altitudes. Some installations achieve
full take-off power up to 20,000 ft or higher. Many turbo-charged
engines go the other route, and use the turbo to boost the power at
sea level, but the power falls of with an increase of altitude.
Neat idea though - I have been heard to say that I've never flown an
aircraft with too much power.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Metalplane(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Light Power Supply Kit |
There are a bunch of these little kits on the market. I've built several.
They really don't put out enough power to be legal, but they do work, are
easy to make, and might be worth using along with a legal system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 - N783MS First Start |
Hi Mark:
If anything breaking in the chrome cylinders is more critical than steel,
but the same basic rules apply, keep the ground running to a minimum, avoid
idling as much as possible and pull 70 -75% power as much as you can until
the oil consumption stabilizes and run mineral oil during the break-in.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Steffensen <steffco1(at)home.com>
Date: Saturday, June 24, 2000 4:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 - N783MS First Start
>
>Lister's,
>
>Today,
>
>I started my IO-360 A1A for the first time on my 8A.
>
>The engine had been run in on a club in a test cell (1.5 hours) by the
>engine shop.
>
>Any advise on break-in with these chrome cylinders
>
>Well, it started in 2 blades.
>
>I had a few issues to correct, but what a great feeling to see the prop
turn
>for the first time.
>
>All the money, time, sweat etc. is worth it.
>
>I can't wait to fly this machine.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Dallas, TX
>Flying soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip usage |
I agree wth Chris Wilcox' answer. Fuel is not the problem. The -4 is
comfortable but has no wiggle room. Three hours is just about my limit to
sit in one spot. Five hours would only happen if I was over big water like
the Pacific and had no other choice. (Jon Jonhansen on 15 hours legs?
Beyond belief!!!) Baggage is only an occasional problem. On some of our
many, many trips, my wife and I rediscover UPS. We don't use them often;
usually on the return trip because she went shopping. The only real
inconvenience is lack of baggage length for a reasonable fold-up chair at
airshows. But (before Chris can respond) I think the Rocket will solve that
problem nicely.
Paul and Gerti Vander Schuur
250 hours last 14 months
18+ hours next month roudtrip to Osh
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Shook <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 8:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip usage
>
> RV people, I am having a bit of trouble with a decision here. A while
back
> I decided not to leave the wingtips empty. I intend to either use them as
> storage lockers for extra luggage (light stuff) or use them as fuel tanks.
> I go back and forth, forth and back. The 0-360 in an RV-4 doesn't have a
> huge range, so I can see a desire for more fuel....nor does it have a lot
of
> space for luggage....so I can see a desire for more cargo area.....
> H-E-L-P!!
>
> Those who are flying....which do you feel is more disturbing - a 600sm
range
> or lack of space? I have to say I'm leaning towards the fuel....but $1700
> yikes.
>
> Bill
> -4 fuse on the way
>
>
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Prototype |
Hey Listers,
I had the same reaction that Larry had when he saw the new 9 on Van's
website,,,, yuck! Well, I'd like to let you all know that the new 9A is a
great looking plane. The fit and finish is excellent, and in person, the
paint job looks great! I visited the factory last Friday and spent a lot of
time looking at the new plane. Saturday at the Scappoose fly-in (thanks for
a great time Homewing members!) Van "almost" said even he liked the new paint
scheme. He did say that he thought it made the old paint schemes look pretty
plain. He gave a great exhibition of the slow flight characteristics of the
plane, as well as short take off and landing capabilities. We had maybe 8 to
10 knots of wind down the runway, and it looked like he was off and on in
about 200'. There were lots of fine looking RVs at the fly-in, even if some
of the planes from up north were trapped at home by a low ceiling and rain.
The Blackjack Squadron finally made it down to do some formation flying at
about 2pm. We were still able to feed them all lunch.
Dave Burton
RV6 (A probably)
Scott R McDaniels wrote:
>
> I saw the discussion in the archives about the New RV-9A's paint scheme.
>
> I can assure everyone that it looks much better than it does in that
> picture on the web site. I am going to try and get a closer up ground
> photo posted so that you can all really see what it looks like.
>
> After its first public display this weekend at the Home Wing fly-in, I'm
> confident that people on the RV list who attend will say the same thing.
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: compressor soundproofing |
WARNING!!! I would reconsider a soundproofing box unles it was also
fireproof.
Some compressors **can** catch fire.
Ask me how I know .... ;-)
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 2:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: compressor soundproofing
>
> I have a Quincy compresor, which is relatively quiet, but I need to
> make it even more quiet so I can work late at night. Has anybody
> built a soundproof housing for their compressor? If so, what kind of
> material did you use for soundproofing and how much space do you need
> to leave around the compresssor to prevent overheating?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Schrimmer
> RV-9A empennage
> Irvine, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
I have searched the archives for this but not found an answer from someone
who actually assembled HS to fuselage with this problem.
I accidentally drilled the two holes in HS-814 only that is supposed to be
drilled in assembly with fuselage. This is my second attempt at the front
spar (changed from RV-6 to RV-8) and I didn't even make this mistake the
first time - argh! All the other holes to be drilled during assembly are
'intact'. I drilled 801 and 814 to the 602's before I noticed the mistake so
I will have to redo all of the front spar or take a chance I guess...
Except, how big of a chance is it? I did not drill these two holes through
602. I noticed it just as I was about to drill these to #30 along with the
other #30 holes.
Has anyone done the same mistake and still been able to mate HS to fuselage?
The holes are still 'only' #40.
Are
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Norman:
Up until 6 years ago I used to sell and service Halon extinguishing systems
for race cars. 1301 was preferred if the driver was likely to be subjected
to the Halon because it is less toxic to inhale when plumbed into the
cockpit of a racecar. 1301 is also what was used in enclosed spaces such as
computer rooms. For enclosed spaces, the recommended volume of 1301 is about
1 pound per 50 cubic feet. (As I recall, inhaling 1211 quickly leads to an
irregular heartbeat.)
However, 1211 is slower to vaporize and has a better chance to stick around
long enough to put out a fire when subjected to high velocity air trying to
carry it away.
I understand that since Halon manufacturing was banned because of it's
effect on the ozone layer, some of the Halon now available is a recycled mix
of 1211 and 1301.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
RV-9A builder website: http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Can any one verify any of the following:
There are two types of Halon. Both are liquid under pressure in the bottle
but 1301 comes out as a gas. 1211 comes out as a liquid. 1301 is prefered?
Fire is stopped when a Halon saturation of 6% for at least 1/2 of a second
is achieved.
This I find hard to believe but this guy said that a Boeing 747 CF6 engine
uses only 7 lbs of Halon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip extensions (and anxious to fly) |
Mike Robertson wrote:
> The answer you want can be found in FAR 21.1387 thru 21.1401.
He meant FAR 23...... not 21. I think?
Part 23.1 says, however, that it applies to aircraft in the normal, utility,
acrobatic and commuter categories. These are Standard Certificate aircraft
as opposed to experimental. I think?
I wonder if we don't all assume that the diagram often seen (in AC Spruce
catalog for instance) is the official word? Actually, that is the word
according to Whelan, right?
91.205 removes our exemptions, I think.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
That is the
> standard that all Inspectors will/should use to determine the lights
> position. More to your point is that the position lights must be visible
> from both the top and bottom as well as straight ahead of the aircraft to
> 110 degress left or right from the nose. the tai llight must be visible
both
> up and down as well s 70 degrees left and right of the tail. And the
> Anti-collison light/strobe must "illuminate the vital areas around the
> plane."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 6/26/2000 5:33:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
>
> I am curious about the feasibility of a turbine installation in an RV-8
Possible. Someone put one a turboprop in a RV-6 once. Haven't heard much
about it since though. But why? Redline is 210 mph(sorry 220 or something
for the -8). You could easily redline straight and level with one of the
larger recips (like a ported io-360).
>
> Your not listening to this, are you Van?
>
> At this point, I don't even know enough about turbines to kill myself.
(Lots
> of gas, lots of power, and a wee bit of money) Is there anyone on the list
> who can talk generally about turbines, or perhaps direct me to folks who
> can?
Keep searching the web. There is a group of gas-turbine fanatics out there
that you will find.
>
> As far as I know, some of the initial concerns are:
> weight & balance issues with a lighter engine, (but a heavy prop)
Well, it wont be THAT light. Not a huge problem. Cost, difficulty, and what
to do with all that power are the biggest problems.
>
> control issues of additional torque (perhaps a bigger rudder)?
>
> What mods were made to the RV-4 to accomodate the weight and torque of the
> 0-540 engines?
They call it a Harmon Rocket, look them up in the yellow pages...
>
> This is all very speculative at this point. Perhaps if the big issues turn
> out to be small ones, then the small issues can be dealt with in time.
IMHO, if you really want to be using a turboprop, you should be using a
different airframe. If you want to increase your performance, you could
consider turobocharging. Lancair has a turbocharger kit for one of the
IO-360's that could be made to fit into an -8. However, IMHO its not a good
idea to tweak up a Lyc very much... crank shaft just cant take it... among
other things
You might consider looking into a turbo rotary. Although this is also an
untested route, more people have successfully done it than gas turbine and
turbo IO-360's combined. With a turbo rotary you could expect at least 200hp
continuous up to about 18k' and 250hp when you wanted to push it. But this
is still too much power except for climb.
Dave Leonard
RV-6 Canopy
Mazda 13B-turbo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
H'mmmmmmmm
Lycoming cranks cant take it? Care to elaborate on that one?
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM
VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/26/2000 5:33:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
>
> >
> > I am curious about the feasibility of a turbine installation in an RV-8
>
> Possible. Someone put one a turboprop in a RV-6 once. Haven't heard much
> about it since though. But why? Redline is 210 mph(sorry 220 or something
> for the -8). You could easily redline straight and level with one of the
> larger recips (like a ported io-360).
>
> >
> > Your not listening to this, are you Van?
> >
> > At this point, I don't even know enough about turbines to kill myself.
> (Lots
> > of gas, lots of power, and a wee bit of money) Is there anyone on the list
> > who can talk generally about turbines, or perhaps direct me to folks who
> > can?
>
> Keep searching the web. There is a group of gas-turbine fanatics out there
> that you will find.
> >
> > As far as I know, some of the initial concerns are:
> > weight & balance issues with a lighter engine, (but a heavy prop)
>
> Well, it wont be THAT light. Not a huge problem. Cost, difficulty, and what
> to do with all that power are the biggest problems.
>
> >
> > control issues of additional torque (perhaps a bigger rudder)?
> >
> > What mods were made to the RV-4 to accomodate the weight and torque of the
> > 0-540 engines?
>
> They call it a Harmon Rocket, look them up in the yellow pages...
> >
> > This is all very speculative at this point. Perhaps if the big issues turn
> > out to be small ones, then the small issues can be dealt with in time.
>
> IMHO, if you really want to be using a turboprop, you should be using a
> different airframe. If you want to increase your performance, you could
> consider turobocharging. Lancair has a turbocharger kit for one of the
> IO-360's that could be made to fit into an -8. However, IMHO its not a good
> idea to tweak up a Lyc very much... crank shaft just cant take it... among
> other things
>
> You might consider looking into a turbo rotary. Although this is also an
> untested route, more people have successfully done it than gas turbine and
> turbo IO-360's combined. With a turbo rotary you could expect at least 200hp
> continuous up to about 18k' and 250hp when you wanted to push it. But this
> is still too much power except for climb.
>
> Dave Leonard
> RV-6 Canopy
> Mazda 13B-turbo
>
________________________________________________________________________________
A friend of mine who converts Dromader ag planes to turbines did a quick
study on the conversion of an RV-8. The big problem is fuel. You can not
carry enough with out major rework, to go anywhere. Next is the tail. Again
major redesign for safety. He said it would be easier to design you own
airplane. For what it's worth.
Ed Storo RV-8 30 hours (and I still can barely land!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson Fund |
..and don't forget to write CANADA on the envelope and add a 48c spamp. A
33 cent stamp from the USA will only result "a return to sender" action.
Subject: RV-List: Jon Johanson Fund
>Eustace Bowhay
>3331 Mc Bride Rd. RR#1
>Blind Bay, B.C. VOE 1H1
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Problem with rivet gun |
I have a problem with my Avery 3x rivet gun. It will not run loaded, let me
explain further.
I too had a problem with my Avery 3x rivet gun. I spoke with Bob Avery and
he said to send it back to him. He fixed it in no time and returned it to
me. I think he said the problem was that the barrel had warped. I was
about half way through my project then and the new barrel worked fine for
the rest of the project.
Hope this helps...
G. Fesenbek
"The Deadly Jester"
N152
Addison, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
There are other reasons for using a turbine besides horsepower guys. No
shock cooling is certainly one of them. Reliability ranks up there as well.
The down side is the cost of the turbine, cost of maintenance when it's
finally needed and build time since it's not a kit.
If you're really interested do a search on turbine conversions. You'll find
several companies....most of which I've already talked to. Get out your
checkbook and drain your childrens inheritance.....or just put up with the
1930's lycosaur.
Bill
-4
----- Original Message -----
From: <VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbines?
>
> In a message dated 6/26/2000 5:33:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
>
> >
> > I am curious about the feasibility of a turbine installation in an RV-8
>
> Possible. Someone put one a turboprop in a RV-6 once. Haven't heard much
> about it since though. But why? Redline is 210 mph(sorry 220 or
something
> for the -8). You could easily redline straight and level with one of the
> larger recips (like a ported io-360).
>
> >
> > Your not listening to this, are you Van?
> >
> > At this point, I don't even know enough about turbines to kill myself.
> (Lots
> > of gas, lots of power, and a wee bit of money) Is there anyone on the
list
> > who can talk generally about turbines, or perhaps direct me to folks
who
> > can?
>
> Keep searching the web. There is a group of gas-turbine fanatics out
there
> that you will find.
> >
> > As far as I know, some of the initial concerns are:
> > weight & balance issues with a lighter engine, (but a heavy prop)
>
> Well, it wont be THAT light. Not a huge problem. Cost, difficulty, and
what
> to do with all that power are the biggest problems.
>
> >
> > control issues of additional torque (perhaps a bigger rudder)?
> >
> > What mods were made to the RV-4 to accomodate the weight and torque of
the
> > 0-540 engines?
>
> They call it a Harmon Rocket, look them up in the yellow pages...
> >
> > This is all very speculative at this point. Perhaps if the big issues
turn
> > out to be small ones, then the small issues can be dealt with in time.
>
> IMHO, if you really want to be using a turboprop, you should be using a
> different airframe. If you want to increase your performance, you could
> consider turobocharging. Lancair has a turbocharger kit for one of the
> IO-360's that could be made to fit into an -8. However, IMHO its not a
good
> idea to tweak up a Lyc very much... crank shaft just cant take it...
among
> other things
>
> You might consider looking into a turbo rotary. Although this is also an
> untested route, more people have successfully done it than gas turbine and
> turbo IO-360's combined. With a turbo rotary you could expect at least
200hp
> continuous up to about 18k' and 250hp when you wanted to push it. But
this
> is still too much power except for climb.
>
> Dave Leonard
> RV-6 Canopy
> Mazda 13B-turbo
>
>
June 20, 2000 - June 27, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-it