RV-Archive.digest.vol-iu
June 27, 2000 - July 03, 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
I am working on the carb heat control. How have you guys hooked it up
to the arm on the air door? Do I order some special thingy or do I go
with
I initially used the wire control recommended but it broke during my test
fly off after just 15 hours. The problem with the way that I installed it
was that the wire had to go through too much of an angle from open to closed
to make it work properly. I decided to just get a regular (and expensive)
control cable for this made to a custom length (Van's will do this). It is
the same cable used for the elevator trim if you have the manual system
albeit quite a bit shorter. I put a rod end bearing on the end and attached
it to the carb heat door handle. It works great and the rod end bearing
makes the operation smooth. I have 76 hours on the old girl now and just
inspected the cable last night as part of my regular oil change
interval/inspection. It's still holding up fine.
Hope this helps...
Gary Fesenbek
N152
Addison, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 12:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Turbines?
>I am curious about the feasibility of a turbine installation in an RV-8
Andy: In addition to the elements already mentioned by others, consider
fuel consumption. The data sheet for the Allison 250 model B17C gives a max
continuous power of 420 (time limited) and normal cruise of 369 (highest
power for continuous operation) and at this latter output the fuel
consumption is given as .656 Lbs/SHP/hr. At 90% cruise (332hp) sfc is .670
and at 75% cruise (277hp) sfc is .715. These are sea level figures. I
don't know the standard weight for Jet A but if it is assumed to be about
6.5 pounds/gal the 75% cruise would result in something over 30 gph. Flight
idle consumption is given as 75pph or about 11.5 gph. 75% cruise appears to
be available to about 18000' at std atmosphere or below and 200KTAS. These
are not impossible numbers but they would be discouraging to me. 60 gal of
fuel, with startup and taxi would provide much less than 2 hours flight
time. 90 gal (about 585lbs) would give perhaps 2 hours of climb and cruise
flight.
The sheet also says the engine weighs 195lbs and is 45" long. Considerable
redesign would be indicated to deal with weight and balance considerations
as well as gross weight, stability and control and flutter aspects. This is
not meant to rain on your parade. I would love to see someone build with
this kind of performance in mind. A turbo normalized 200hp Lyc (as in
Lancair Legacy 2000) probably weighs upwards of 400lbs so it is not such an
easy answer either.
As someone said: Everything is connected to everything else, everything has
to go somewhere, and there's no such thing as a free lunch.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing site additions/changes. |
Hi all.
If you're stuck at work (like me) and you've got a minute to surf, I thought
I'd make you aware of some recent additions and changes to the VAF-World
Wide Wing web site.
* Easy to remember URL. I bought the domain name www.vansairforce.net
<http://www.vansairforce.net> . Typing this into your browser will redirect
you to the Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing site. It's easier to remember
than http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm
<http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm> .
* The RV White Pages currently contain contact information for over
520 RV builders and flyers and is now fully 'searchable'. If you are
building or flying a RV and you're not on the list, you should be - it's
free. The database is updated daily.
* RV of the Week is now in its fourth week (new image is posted each
Monday)
* RV CFI's Available for Transition Training. I've started a list of
people to contact when you're ready for RV training. If you're a RV owner /
CFI(I) and you're willing to train in your RV (or in the builder's RV) you
should send me your info (again, it's free). Currently there are (5) CFI's
listed.
* Message / Discussion Board. Perfect for posting anything you
want...upcoming events, things for sale, questions, ....
* Chat Room. Real RV people in *real* time. Usually most active in
the mornings, when people are drinking their morning coffee. I usually keep
one of my work PC's in the chat room, so if you're bored just stop in.
* A link to Larry Pardue's recent RV Mountain Tour (with many great
pictures). In the 'Travel Stories' section. You will really enjoy this.
Thanks as always,
Doug Reeves
www.vansairforce.net <http://www.vansairforce.net>
RV-6 Fuselage / Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Purge Valve |
>
> So my question to some one who is flying one of these is does it ever come
> out the vent on the belly? or is the tank drawing in balance so to speak?
> I'll assume that you can only purge fuel when that tank is selected on the
> main fuel valve.
>
> Is number 4 the smaller size line the way to go for the return line?
I used a -4 line and returned the purge line directly to a fuel tank (in my
case, the right, just because it was easier). Pre-start procedure would be
to select the tank the purge line returned to and run the boost pump with
the purge valve in the "bypass' position. Start up could be done on either
tank.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wood prop vs. metal prop |
Its all in the archives. The archives are one of the best things going. You can
retreive the data in one of two formats.
SAee the matronics page for details.
vwelch(at)knownet.net on 06/26/2000 06:14:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wood prop vs. metal prop
If there are no objections, I would be interested in seeing the answers on the
list.
Vince
RV-8A Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bower [SMTP:rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 2:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wood prop vs. metal prop
Forgive me if I'm starting a long argumentative thread, but I didn't see any
discussions about this in the list archives.
I'm building a -6A and have read pros and cons of wood and metal props. The
metal is more robust, but the wood flies smoother. The metal needs less
maintenance; the wood needs to be retorqued and examined more thoroughly.
There's probably more, but you get the point. Would some of the people who
have first hand experience and strongly held beliefs please contact me
either on or off the list? Thanks.
Jim Bower
jimbower(at)sprintmail.com
RV-6A N143DJ - almost done with empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Are:
You'll "probably" be okay if the holes are #40. The attachment bolts are
AN3, and the diameter of the AN3 will "probably" encompass the holes you've
made, even if the centers aren't in the exact correct place. You may have
some trouble drilling holes where you want them (drill will want to center
on the holes you've already made) but it can be done.
Worst case is you'll have to redo a part of the HS half way through your
fuselage construction, but I don't think that'll happen.
George Kilishek
#80006
Finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 11:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS-814 goof
>
> I have searched the archives for this but not found an answer from someone
> who actually assembled HS to fuselage with this problem.
>
> I accidentally drilled the two holes in HS-814 only that is supposed to be
> drilled in assembly with fuselage. This is my second attempt at the front
> spar (changed from RV-6 to RV-8) and I didn't even make this mistake the
> first time - argh! All the other holes to be drilled during assembly are
> 'intact'. I drilled 801 and 814 to the 602's before I noticed the mistake
so
> I will have to redo all of the front spar or take a chance I guess...
> Except, how big of a chance is it? I did not drill these two holes through
> 602. I noticed it just as I was about to drill these to #30 along with the
> other #30 holes.
>
> Has anyone done the same mistake and still been able to mate HS to
fuselage?
> The holes are still 'only' #40.
>
> Are
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flightcom Intercom For Sale |
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Winsted <rv6av8tor(at)yahoo.com>
Don:
I'll buy the intercom if it's still available.
George Kilishek
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 4:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flightcom Intercom For Sale
>
> New, still in box. Flightcom Model 403mc Voice
> activated intercom. Includes install kit and jacks.
> Purchased from chief avionics for $150. Will sell
> including shipping and insurance for $125!! Only taken
> out of box once!!
>
> Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: compressor soundproofing |
Sound travels easily thru holes in the box so avoid cracks, holes etc
The denser the surrounding material the better for deadening the sound.
Think lead lined.
Actually, if you have the space, a solid concrete block box with a slab lid
would be most bang for buck.
If you use it enough to get too hot then you will need something more, of
course.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson Fund |
OOps, I guess it will coming back.
lothar klingmuller wrote:
>
>
> ..and don't forget to write CANADA on the envelope and add a 48c spamp. A
> 33 cent stamp from the USA will only result "a return to sender" action.
>
> Subject: RV-List: Jon Johanson Fund
>
>
> >Eustace Bowhay
> >3331 Mc Bride Rd. RR#1
> >Blind Bay, B.C. VOE 1H1
>
> do not archieve
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting |
> I bought a 12 v flourescent lantern (flashlight) - Coleman I believe and
> ripped it apart. If you are interested, I'll look at it and send info on
> how to hook up the circuit board to the tubes (dog simple!). It even
works
> on the dimmer circuit.
>
> hal
Nice work Hal but I ordered the strip lights from JC Whitney. Dirt cheap at
$5 each. They work on a reostat too......Norman.............Do not
archive............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
>
> How many others have had this arrangement break?
>
I should have mentioned in my original post that the way I first did it
(wire grip and rod end bearing) was what Scott McDaniels recommended. He was
surprised to hear that mine broke. Told me to make sure to leave the casing
on the wire as long as possible, which I had done. I don't know, maybe it
was just the dynamics of vibration in my particular set-up. Anyway the "B"
nut seems like a neat deal, very low mass.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
> Whats a guy to do? For years I have done everything with my left hand!
> What throttle and stick set up should I utilize for my RV8
[snip]
> Oh well, I still have plenty of time to
> ponder it, just starting to skin my HS.
Since you're just starting out you should have plenty of time to go out and
find a champ, cub, or something else with a right stick/left throttle and
find out how you like a left quadrant/right stick. You'll probably discover
that after a few minutes it seems perfectly natural to fly that airplane
that way.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
My HS-810 & 814 also have #40 holes in this location, as my brain was
also asleep that day. While I won't mount my HS for another couple
of weeks, I don't see any big problem here. I think these pilot
holes will actually help put those bolt holes exactly where you want
them, by ensuring the drill doesn't move on you. Those bolts go into
a plate that joins the HS and VS front spars. The worst case is you
have an edge distance problem on that plate, and need to make a
bigger one to get the proper edge distance. This is not likely to be
a problem, as you get to chose exactly where to put that plate. See
DWG 27 on your preview plans.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>Are:
>
>You'll "probably" be okay if the holes are #40. The attachment bolts are
>AN3, and the diameter of the AN3 will "probably" encompass the holes you've
>made, even if the centers aren't in the exact correct place. You may have
>some trouble drilling holes where you want them (drill will want to center
>on the holes you've already made) but it can be done.
>
>Worst case is you'll have to redo a part of the HS half way through your
>fuselage construction, but I don't think that'll happen.
>
>George Kilishek
>#80006
>Finish kit
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 11:15 PM
>Subject: RV-List: HS-814 goof
>
>
>>
>> I have searched the archives for this but not found an answer from someone
>> who actually assembled HS to fuselage with this problem.
>>
>> I accidentally drilled the two holes in HS-814 only that is supposed to be
>> drilled in assembly with fuselage. This is my second attempt at the front
>> spar (changed from RV-6 to RV-8) and I didn't even make this mistake the
>> first time - argh! All the other holes to be drilled during assembly are
>> 'intact'. I drilled 801 and 814 to the 602's before I noticed the mistake
>so
>> I will have to redo all of the front spar or take a chance I guess...
>> Except, how big of a chance is it? I did not drill these two holes through
>> 602. I noticed it just as I was about to drill these to #30 along with the
>> other #30 holes.
>>
>> Has anyone done the same mistake and still been able to mate HS to
>fuselage?
>> The holes are still 'only' #40.
>>
>> Are
>> RV-8
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Purge Valve |
> I used a -4 line and returned the purge line directly to a fuel tank (in
my
> case, the right, just because it was easier). Pre-start procedure would be
> to select the tank the purge line returned to and run the boost pump with
> the purge valve in the "bypass' position.
This is what I would prefer but only possible if one decides on the Airflow
Performance fuel injection system before finishing the tanks. I would have
put an extra AN832-4D bulkhead fitting on the side of one tank any where. It
could be capped with a AN929-4D later if injection was not used. A small
thing to do while building leads to a better option later.
I will go with the vent line route. The tank needs to draw from this line if
fuel is being drawn from the tank so no fuel is supposed to head out the
vent. This is what Airflow recommends.
So ideally this descision and its complications should be made near the
start of the wing kit. If that's where you are at and are considering fuel
injection from Airflow, I recommend contacting Airflow for complete
installation requirements. Specifically ask for a mail out with the Purge
Valve Installation diagram and the boost pump installation diagram. This is
good advice. Get this area figuired out early. I wish I had.
Again this only concerns builders who want to remove the carburator from the
Lycombing and install an Airflow Performance Fuel Injection System.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il> |
| Subject: | Turbines alternatives? |
Hey, Turbo guys - why not look at the "Dynacam" engine?
Turbine shape, better than regular piston performance.
200 HP @ 2000 RPM
650ft.lb torque @ 1200 RPM
373 Cubic Inches
265 Lbs Dry Weight
.40 Lb./Hp-Hr @ Cruise
.47 Lb./Hp-Hr @ Full pwr.
13" Diameter x 40" Length
Type Certificate # 293
Or, if you want high power, low weight and even lower fuel
consumption, there are the Zoche engines:
Power at 2,500 rpm................220 kW - 300 hp
Displacement..........................5.33 liter - 325.3 cu
inches
Height.....................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Width......................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Diameter.................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Length.....................................924 mm - 36.4 inches
Weight....................................123 kg - 271 lbs
Max Power BSFC..................225 g/kWh - .365 lb/hp hr
Cruise (75%) BSFC...............220 g/kWh - .357 lb/hp hr
Cruise (75%) Consumption...43.7 l/hr - 11.43 gal/hr
How about that? Compare to a 360 Lyc...
Another thing - if you already need to redesign the tail, why
not go the "Full Monty", and install a small Williams turbo -
jet???
Just a thought...
Ronen
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon or Marge Comfort <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbines?
|
|
|-----Original Message-----
|From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
|To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|Date: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 12:14 AM
|Subject: RV-List: Turbines?
|
|
|>I am curious about the feasibility of a turbine installation
in an RV-8
|
|Andy: In addition to the elements already mentioned by others,
consider
|fuel consumption. The data sheet for the Allison 250 model
B17C gives a max
|continuous power of 420 (time limited) and normal cruise of 369
(highest
|power for continuous operation) and at this latter output the
fuel
|consumption is given as .656 Lbs/SHP/hr. At 90% cruise (332hp)
sfc is .670
|and at 75% cruise (277hp) sfc is .715. These are sea level
figures. I
|don't know the standard weight for Jet A but if it is assumed
to be about
|6.5 pounds/gal the 75% cruise would result in something over 30
gph. Flight
|idle consumption is given as 75pph or about 11.5 gph. 75%
cruise appears to
|be available to about 18000' at std atmosphere or below and
200KTAS. These
|are not impossible numbers but they would be discouraging to
me. 60 gal of
|fuel, with startup and taxi would provide much less than 2
hours flight
|time. 90 gal (about 585lbs) would give perhaps 2 hours of
climb and cruise
|flight.
|
|The sheet also says the engine weighs 195lbs and is 45" long.
Considerable
|redesign would be indicated to deal with weight and balance
considerations
|as well as gross weight, stability and control and flutter
aspects. This is
|not meant to rain on your parade. I would love to see someone
build with
|this kind of performance in mind. A turbo normalized 200hp Lyc
(as in
|Lancair Legacy 2000) probably weighs upwards of 400lbs so it is
not such an
|easy answer either.
|
|As someone said: Everything is connected to everything else,
everything has
|to go somewhere, and there's no such thing as a free lunch.
|
|Gordon Comfort
|N363GC
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives? |
In a message dated 6/27/2000 1:17:59 PM Central Daylight Time,
yron(at)isdn.net.il writes:
<<
Or, if you want high power, low weight and even lower fuel
consumption, there are the Zoche engines:
Power at 2,500 rpm................220 kW - 300 hp
Displacement..........................5.33 liter - 325.3 cu
inches
Height.....................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Width......................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Diameter.................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Length.....................................924 mm - 36.4 inches
Weight....................................123 kg - 271 lbs
Max Power BSFC..................225 g/kWh - .365 lb/hp hr
Cruise (75%) BSFC...............220 g/kWh - .357 lb/hp hr
Cruise (75%) Consumption...43.7 l/hr - 11.43 gal/hr
How about that? Compare to a 360 Lyc...
Another thing - if you already need to redesign the tail, why
not go the "Full Monty", and install a small Williams turbo -
jet???
Just a thought...
Ronen >>
Zoche, So were suppose to fly with an engine that you cant get.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives? |
>
>Hey, Turbo guys - why not look at the "Dynacam" engine?
>Turbine shape, better than regular piston performance.
>
>Ronen
Ronen,
The Dynacam looks more like a stock or investor scam than a real engine.
The example that Ive seen run at various airshows looks like a proof of
concept device that was cobbled together in someones garage. As far as I
know its never flown. The power curve seems to indicate that it needs to
swing a larger prop than would fit on an RV.
Zoche has been appearing at OSH for years saying production is just around
the corner. It appears not to be a viable alternative (at least not until
its actually for sale).
Just my opinion.
Mike Wills
RV4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B - some of these are actually flying on RVs)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives? |
> Another thing - if you already need to redesign the tail, why
> not go the "Full Monty", and install a small Williams turbo -
> jet???
>
> Just a thought...
> Ronen
>
Why not indeed, it's got to be the fastest way to pull the wings off! ;)
Sylvain Duford
Bellevue, WA
RV-8 (Fuselage)
N-130RV Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives? |
ZOCHE has been at every Oshgosh for as long as I can remember with the same old
cut-away mockup. Burt Ruttan gave up on him 10 or 12 years ago after waiting 4
or 5 years for somethng tanagable to test to or design against. He (Zoche) has
a
good idea but apparently thats all at this point.
CW9371(at)aol.com on 06/27/2000 02:21:52 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbines alternatives?
In a message dated 6/27/2000 1:17:59 PM Central Daylight Time,
yron(at)isdn.net.il writes:
<<
Or, if you want high power, low weight and even lower fuel
consumption, there are the Zoche engines:
Power at 2,500 rpm................220 kW - 300 hp
Displacement..........................5.33 liter - 325.3 cu
inches
Height.....................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Width......................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Diameter.................................644 mm - 25.4 inches
Length.....................................924 mm - 36.4 inches
Weight....................................123 kg - 271 lbs
Max Power BSFC..................225 g/kWh - .365 lb/hp hr
Cruise (75%) BSFC...............220 g/kWh - .357 lb/hp hr
Cruise (75%) Consumption...43.7 l/hr - 11.43 gal/hr
How about that? Compare to a 360 Lyc...
Another thing - if you already need to redesign the tail, why
not go the "Full Monty", and install a small Williams turbo -
jet???
Just a thought...
Ronen >>
Zoche, So were suppose to fly with an engine that you cant get.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Purge Valve |
> Andair makes a fuel selector that routes the Fuel Injection return line to
> the tank that the fuel came from. It's called a Duplex Valve. This
> prevents having to send all returned fuel to one tank and possibly
> overflowing out of the tank vent line.
> http://www.andair.co.uk/selector/valve.htm
Yes I have seen those very nice pieces but I'm almost positive they require
another line to the tank. Please correct me if I'm wrong but a T into the
vent line is the only way to install a purge return without opening a tank.
I am considering ordering a small proseal kit and opening the right tank to
install a proper return line bulkhead fitting. Probably vastly cheaper than
an Andair Duplex Valve too...............Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Purge Valve |
Don,
The Stewart 51 is not the same installation as the RV series. First of all,
the pump is in bypass only when running in takeoff and landing. The engine
driven pump has a built in bypass. The pump in the Stewart 51 are a much
higher volume. And, I don't know if they have an engine driven pump.
TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Purge Valve |
> >This is what I would prefer but only possible if one decides on the
Airflow
> >Performance fuel injection system before finishing the tanks. I would
have
> >put an extra AN832-4D bulkhead fitting on the side of one tank any where.
It
> >could be capped with a AN929-4D later if injection was not used. A small
> >thing to do while building leads to a better option later.
There seems to be some misunderstanding of how the Airflow Performance unit
works. It only returns fuel during a purge/bypass operation before startup.
By contrast a Bonanza is constanly bypassing fuel. Before the engine is
started the bypass valve is turned to the run position and the unit no
longer bypasses any fuel.
I had already finished my tanks when I purchased the Aiflow Performance
unit. I just pulled off the tank inspection cover and put a bulkhead fitting
in it for the purge return line.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives - Dynacam? |
Piper bit on the Dynacam and flew one on a Cherokee some years
ago. The project didn't last long. - Bob
> The Dynacam looks more like a stock or investor scam than a real engine.
> The example that Ive seen run at various airshows looks like a proof of
> concept device that was cobbled together in someones garage. As far as I
> know its never flown.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip extensions (and anxious to fly) |
21 applies as well, look it up.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wingtip extensions (and anxious to fly)
>
> Mike Robertson wrote:
> > The answer you want can be found in FAR 21.1387 thru 21.1401.
>
> He meant FAR 23...... not 21. I think?
>
> Part 23.1 says, however, that it applies to aircraft in the normal,
utility,
> acrobatic and commuter categories. These are Standard Certificate
aircraft
> as opposed to experimental. I think?
>
> I wonder if we don't all assume that the diagram often seen (in AC Spruce
> catalog for instance) is the official word? Actually, that is the word
> according to Whelan, right?
>
> 91.205 removes our exemptions, I think.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK
>
>
> That is the
> > standard that all Inspectors will/should use to determine the lights
> > position. More to your point is that the position lights must be
visible
> > from both the top and bottom as well as straight ahead of the aircraft
to
> > 110 degress left or right from the nose. the tai llight must be visible
> both
> > up and down as well s 70 degrees left and right of the tail. And the
> > Anti-collison light/strobe must "illuminate the vital areas around the
> > plane."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
I just found this web site for making custom decal labels. Has anyone
tried this yet?
http://www.tangopapadecals.com
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Brewster" <kevin(at)synelec.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives? |
I think a 300hp version of the Zoche engine has been run on the testbench.
I have a page on my website with many alternate engines such as this, with
links to the manufacturers sites. I have only included engines I thought
might be suitable for installing in a Mustang-II (so no turbines!) but they
would all be applicable to RVs as well. For those interested, goto
www.synelec.com.au/mustang and then select "Thoughts about... Engines" menu
option.
Have Fun,
Kevin Brewster, Mustang-II
www.synelec.com.au/mustang
Australia
> ZOCHE has been at every Oshgosh for as long as I can remember with the
same old
> cut-away mockup. Burt Ruttan gave up on him 10 or 12 years ago after
waiting 4
> or 5 years for somethng tanagable to test to or design against. He (Zoche)
has a
> good idea but apparently thats all at this point.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Purge Valve |
> I will go with the vent line route. The tank needs to draw from this line
if
> fuel is being drawn from the tank so no fuel is supposed to head out the
> vent. This is what Airflow recommends.
Not true, unless I misunderstand what is written above. Airflow recommends
that the -4 purge line be tee'd into one of the supply lines between the
tank pickup and the selector valve. If you pump fuel into the vent line,
it will go on the ground. When using the purge valve to cool the servo and
distribution block, the selector needs to be on the tank opposite the above
stated tee. It would be possible to overflow the tank during this period,
if one sat there listening to the pump and forgot what they were doing.
> I would strongly suggest that you return all fuel to the tank that you
have
> selected. a six port valve will do this. A recent crash of a Stewart S51,
> with Air performence injection, has been traced to a instilation where
> return fuel was teed back in up stream of the selecter valve. Post crash
> runing of the motor with the with the fuel lines instrumented showed that
> after a ten minute cruse rpm run the tempeture of the fuel at the input
to
> the injectors was well above the boiling point. The motor vaper locked
and
> quit. This test was repeated with the same results. Return lines to the
> tanks adds weight and complexity but in my opinion will be well worth the
> time and effort. Even with fire sleveing there is a LOT of heat conducted
> into the fuel by the fuel pump and associated accesserys. Cool Fuel from
> the tanks will go a long way in eleminating this problem. I realise your
> concern is starting but remember that there is a lot of excess fuel
> returned in a injected motor during normal operation.
None if this makes any sense with respect to the Airflow system. No fuel
is returned when the engine is running at all. If the purge valve is
selected when the engine is running, it will promptly stop running. If the
S51 problem was overheated fuel, it is not related to the standard Airflow
perf. purge valve setup. Perhaps something custom was designed...
It is irresponsible to discuss designs without understanding the details -
please avoid it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip extensions (and anxious to fly) |
You're right, I did mean FAR 23. And yes, it is for certificated aircraft
and not experiemtnal but like it or not that is the standard by which your
local inspector/DAR could/will go by to determine if your aircraft is night
VFR capable.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: wingtip extensions (and anxious to fly)
>Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 22:02:48 -0700
>
>
>Mike Robertson wrote:
> > The answer you want can be found in FAR 21.1387 thru 21.1401.
>
>He meant FAR 23...... not 21. I think?
>
>Part 23.1 says, however, that it applies to aircraft in the normal,
>utility,
>acrobatic and commuter categories. These are Standard Certificate aircraft
>as opposed to experimental. I think?
>
>I wonder if we don't all assume that the diagram often seen (in AC Spruce
>catalog for instance) is the official word? Actually, that is the word
>according to Whelan, right?
>
>91.205 removes our exemptions, I think.
>
>Hal Kempthorne
>RV6a N7HK
>
>
> That is the
> > standard that all Inspectors will/should use to determine the lights
> > position. More to your point is that the position lights must be
>visible
> > from both the top and bottom as well as straight ahead of the aircraft
>to
> > 110 degress left or right from the nose. the tai llight must be visible
>both
> > up and down as well s 70 degrees left and right of the tail. And the
> > Anti-collison light/strobe must "illuminate the vital areas around the
> > plane."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
I've had two failures of the exhaust support pieces...not a good design.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying through 215 hours...arr Arlington WA on Friday
Owens wrote:
>
>
> Randy,
>
> I have the same mounting system as you. I pulled the cowl after my 25 hrs for
the 2nd oil change.
>
> As I inspected under the cowl, I found that 3 of the 6 bent pieces of tubing
had failed at the bend. Two of the pieces had departed the airplane. One exhaust
was still secured, the other was unsupported. I usually grab the exhaust
on preflight, so I think it happened on the last flight before I pulled the cowls,
but I didn't feel any vibration.
>
> I've since repaired/changed the design of his support system. I'd guess that
other people have done the same, and probably not call Larry on it, so he may
not know of all the failures that have occured. I wasn't sure about the mounting
scheme when I installed it, but I figured I give it a try first.
>
> So far, this is the only other failure I've had in the first 25 hrs (the oil
cooler failure was the other).
>
> Laird RV-6 (prepping for Arlington, arriving on Wed)
> SoCal
>
>
> snip
>
> This weekend, I noticed a strange vibration so I landed and pulled the
> cowls. One of the exhaust support brackets (the 90 degree bent one) broke
> right at the point where the end was smashed down for the bolt hole.
>
> Called Larry (he answered the telephone on the second ring) and he offered
> to send me a replacement at no cost. He mentioned that he no longer uses
> this bracket system (which was manufactured by someone else) and has a new
> one that he designed. He also offered to ship me the new system at his cost
> this morning.
>
> Great guy and very supportive of his product. Of course, most of you know
> that already.
>
> FYI, Larry reported only about 60 problems out of 1000 sets with the old
> mounting system. The old system uses round tubing bend at 90 degrees to
> connect/support the two exhaust pipes together at the stainless steel
> clamps. If I understand the new system, the clamps are extended upward and
> bent at 90 degrees. Then two straight tubes w/hoses are used to connect the
> two exhaust pipes. (I think.)
>
> snip
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives? |
The Dynacam is a REAL engine and it HAS flown. They are local here in So.CA.
The only problem that I see with it is that at only 2000 rpm's it needs a
pretty long prop to be very efficient.
Dave, RV6 moved to CMA last week-flying soon.
Mike Wills wrote:
>
> >
> >Hey, Turbo guys - why not look at the "Dynacam" engine?
> >Turbine shape, better than regular piston performance.
> >
> >Ronen
>
> Ronen,
>
> The Dynacam looks more like a stock or investor scam than a real engine.
> The example that Ive seen run at various airshows looks like a proof of
> concept device that was cobbled together in someones garage. As far as I
> know its never flown. The power curve seems to indicate that it needs to
> swing a larger prop than would fit on an RV.
>
> Zoche has been appearing at OSH for years saying production is just around
> the corner. It appears not to be a viable alternative (at least not until
> its actually for sale).
>
> Just my opinion.
>
> Mike Wills
> RV4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B - some of these are actually flying on RVs)
> willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
I just applied for my N-number and I received a letter today from the FAA
saying all 5 of my requests were not available. I had did a search on the
numbers I sent them but evidently they were unlisted.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/27/2000 11:33:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I just applied for my N-number and I received a letter today from the FAA
saying all 5 of my requests were not available. I had did a search on the
numbers I sent them but evidently they were unlisted.
John Danielson
Fuselage
>>
the search engine on the interenet is very far behind. The same thing
happened to me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Wood prop vs. metal prop |
I have had a wood prop since I got my RV-4. I tore it up in the rain out
here in Oregon pretty bad last season. I had throttled back to 1700 while
flying through the shower but it must have had some sleet in it. It looked
like I had taken an ice pick to the leading edge of the prop.
I still have a wood prop. I just bought a different one because of another
problem I found with my original. The old one has one blade larger than
the other by quite a bit even though the prop is statically balanced. This
will obviously have one blade pulling more than the other causing a
orbiting thrust center that feels like a vibration. The old one has six
laminations and is obviously easier to manufacture than the new/used one I
picked up that looks like it has about 40 laminations. More laminations
allows better control over the density of the prop blades so they will come
out the same size when balanced making for a smoother running prop. I know
there are probably a lot of wood props out there with only 5 or 6
laminations that run real smooth. Mine was just way out, one blade 3/8"
wider and 1/16" thicker in some places. It ran on the plane for about 160
hours and I didn't notice how much vibration I had until I tried the one
I'm using now.
I will probably eventually spring for a metal prop but for now two grand
buys a lot of RV-4 gas -- and I'll fly around the showers.
Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV
A ship in port is safe but that's not what ships are for.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM |
WHAT IS THE SEARCH ENGINE SITE FOR N-NUMBERS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 6/27/00 9:29:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
randallh(at)home.com writes:
<< > How many others have had this arrangement break?
>
I should have mentioned in my original post that the way I first did it
(wire grip and rod end bearing) was what Scott McDaniels recommended. He was
surprised to hear that mine broke. Told me to make sure to leave the casing
on the wire as long as possible, which I had done. I don't know, maybe it
was just the dynamics of vibration in my particular set-up. Anyway the "B"
nut seems like a neat deal, very low mass. >>
I have to second the 'B' nut idea. One of our local 6A guys with the wire
grip and rod end bearing broke his cable early on (100 hrs or so) also. By
contrast my 'B' nut (ACS P/N 05-16245) with Loctited set screw has been going
strong for 332 hrs.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
I called them direct. I got a very nice lady who did the search right then
and there I finally found one I though would do. I couldn't the one I
really wanted. She even looked up a couple more alternate numbers just in
case somebody had sent in a request while I was talking to her. I got the
first one I asked for.
The number to call is in the archives somewhere. I don't have access to my
notes so I can give it to you, sorry.
Bob
> ----------
> From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 12:15 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
>
>
> I just applied for my N-number and I received a letter today from the FAA
> saying all 5 of my requests were not available. I had did a search on the
> numbers I sent them but evidently they were unlisted.
>
> John Danielson
> Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives - Dynacam? |
----Original Message-----
From: Bob Newman <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com>
|
|Piper bit on the Dynacam and flew one on a Cherokee some years
|ago. The project didn't last long. - Bob
|
Why? Details?
Ronen.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Purge Valve |
I have a very recent manual from Airflow for their purge valve and it
includes two diagrams for the purge valve installation. The first one
returns fuel to the tank through a T into the vent line. If you turn the
page you get to see another diagram where fuel returns to the tank through a
T into a tank fuel line upstream of the fuel selector. Is it possible that
they are offering a new way to do things or have you only gotten your boost
pump and never asked for Purge Valve Manual P/N 2090124. The diagrams start
on page 5. Have a nice day......Norman.....
> > I will go with the vent line route. The tank needs to draw from this
line
> if
> > fuel is being drawn from the tank so no fuel is supposed to head out the
> > vent. This is what Airflow recommends.
>
> Not true, unless I misunderstand what is written above. Airflow recommends
> that the -4 purge line be tee'd into one of the supply lines between the
> tank pickup and the selector valve. If you pump fuel into the vent line,
> It is irresponsible to discuss designs without understanding the details -
> please avoid it.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
RV's out of Oswego NY have had 2 failures also. Ruins a flight plan! Didn't
report them though thought they were isolated case. I'm watching mine at
pre-flights now.
David McManmon
NY
N58DM RV6 53 hours now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RV Forum, Oswego NY |
Go to:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
Not to soon to start your plan.
Back by popular demand!
Sept 30th thru Oct 1st, 2000
See you there,
David McManmon
NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
>
> WHAT IS THE SEARCH ENGINE SITE FOR N-NUMBERS
>
Go to www.landings.com and click on "databases" at the bottom. Be sure to
search both the "reserved n number" and "n number" databases to see if a
number may be available.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
Still wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com> |
| Subject: | NiCad battery resurrection |
My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I rigged
up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like the
old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to hold
it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an hour...
got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
indicator indicates a full charge...
FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.James" <vtx(at)ntplx.net> |
| Subject: | RV Forum, Oswego NY |
Hi Dave,
Looked forward to this one since last years.. T'was THE BEST!
http://vtxpress.com/rv6/eaa486_flyin_92599.htm
See ya' there..
RJ in CT
===============================================================
> http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
>
> Not to soon to start your plan.
> Back by popular demand!
>
> Sept 30th thru Oct 1st, 2000
>
> See you there,
> David McManmon
> NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Labeling |
Glenn,
I did my entire panel using custom decals that I designed and printed on my
ALPS printer. You can check the archives. You can see a picture of the
panel at http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/ at the bottom.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (9.5 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Panel Labeling
>
> Hi,
> I just found this web site for making custom decal labels. Has anyone
> tried this yet?
>
> http://www.tangopapadecals.com
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The VonDane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
After doing your searches on the web, call the FAA and make sure they are
really available! Use the instructions here:
http://vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado
RV-8A, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
----- Original Message -----
From: <CW9371(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
In a message dated 6/27/2000 11:33:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I just applied for my N-number and I received a letter today from the FAA
saying all 5 of my requests were not available. I had did a search on the
numbers I sent them but evidently they were unlisted.
John Danielson
Fuselage
>>
the search engine on the interenet is very far behind. The same thing
happened to me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy Dollarhide" <dollarhide(at)ti.com> |
I just sent off for my N-number yesterday. I called FAA's
Aircraft Registry IN OKC with my list before I mailed it.
Nearly all of the numbers I had were not in the databases
on the web and also were not available. The Lady I talked
with was very friendly and very helpful. She said I could
even give them a block of numbers I was interested in and
they would assign from that(i.e.. number(s) followed by my
initials BD) Give them a call at 405-954-3116. It could
save you another ten bucks.
Billy D
RV6A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
I just applied for my N-number and I received a letter today from the FAA
saying all 5 of my requests were not available. I had did a search on the
numbers I sent them but evidently they were unlisted.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The VonDane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
http://vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm
>
> WHAT IS THE SEARCH ENGINE SITE FOR N-NUMBERS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: DynaCam engine |
If I remember correctly...The engine was an airforce development project that
came along just as turbines came into the being so it was halted...There is
one on display at the Air Force museum in Fairborn, OH....Jim Brown, RV-3 &
4..NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bramsec <bramsec(at)idirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood prop vs. metal prop |
Try using standard electrical tape on the leading edge to protect it in rain.
My tape (Canadian Tire brand .40 cents per roll) has stayed in place now for 30
hours and has gone through rain at much higher rpms.
Regards Peter
Michael McGee wrote:
>
> I have had a wood prop since I got my RV-4. I tore it up in the rain out
> here in Oregon pretty bad last season. I had throttled back to 1700 while
> flying through the shower but it must have had some sleet in it. It looked
> like I had taken an ice pick to the leading edge of the prop.
>
> I still have a wood prop. I just bought a different one because of another
> problem I found with my original. The old one has one blade larger than
> the other by quite a bit even though the prop is statically balanced. This
> will obviously have one blade pulling more than the other causing a
> orbiting thrust center that feels like a vibration. The old one has six
> laminations and is obviously easier to manufacture than the new/used one I
> picked up that looks like it has about 40 laminations. More laminations
> allows better control over the density of the prop blades so they will come
> out the same size when balanced making for a smoother running prop. I know
> there are probably a lot of wood props out there with only 5 or 6
> laminations that run real smooth. Mine was just way out, one blade 3/8"
> wider and 1/16" thicker in some places. It ran on the plane for about 160
> hours and I didn't notice how much vibration I had until I tried the one
> I'm using now.
>
> I will probably eventually spring for a metal prop but for now two grand
> buys a lot of RV-4 gas -- and I'll fly around the showers.
>
> Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV
> A ship in port is safe but that's not what ships are for.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> RV's out of Oswego NY have had 2 failures also. Ruins a flight plan! Didn't
> report them though thought they were isolated case. I'm watching mine at
> pre-flights now.
>
> David McManmon
> NY
> N58DM RV6 53 hours now
I still have the original prototype on my 180 HP 6A, which is a champiion
vibrator with constant speed prop. Don't remember when we put it on, but I have
been flying more than 200 hours per year since then. I did replace a piece of
metal tube (curved) which had a crack in it but had not failed yet, about a year
and a half ago.
I "grab" check it on walk around and visually on 25 hr oil changes.
I have seen some weird installations. Larry basically installed mine with the
engine mount support as high and as far forward as he could get it.
Will research the install date and service record and post it later this week.
Also will let you (and Larry) know what the service life turns out to be if it
ever fails.
D Walsh in Denver
6A, 665Hrs, 992 landings, 3.1 yrs in service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Purge Valve |
Yup, I got one from Vans for over $300.00.
Cecil Hatfield
writes:
>
>
> Andair makes a fuel selector that routes the Fuel Injection return
> line to
> the tank that the fuel came from. It's called a Duplex Valve. This
>
> prevents having to send all returned fuel to one tank and possibly
> overflowing out of the tank vent line.
> http://www.andair.co.uk/selector/valve.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Turbines alternatives? |
http://www.dynacam.com/
Here are some other interesting engine sites:
http://www.deltahawkengines.com/
http://www.wilksch.com/
http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/AST/GAP/
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Nellis
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbines alternatives?
The link to Dynacam from the list that Bill posted doesn't work for me.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint - was Panel Labeling |
Eric,
Thanks for the kind words.
All the paint is DuPont Imron Polyurethane 5000. Base is DuPont Corlar
epoxy primer. White is basic white, the light blue, dark blue, and gold
are metalflake. I also applied a clear coat of Imron 500S Clear. I have a
few spots of orange peel as I have not done any buffing of the finish yet.
Maybe this winter when the weather turns lousy for extended periods, I may
buff out a section at a time.
FYI for those who may be thinking "Man that's a heavy paint job." My empty
weight was 1072 lbs which I was quite happy with.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (9.5 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
> Randy,
> This is not panel labeling related, but in looking at the pics of your
RV-6,
> you have one of the prettiest paint jobs I've seen. What kind of paint is
it?
> Thanks,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson Fund |
To clear up the confusion on the mailing address, I forgot to mention that
mail from the US should include Canada in the address and as has been
mentioned needs a 48 cent stamp.
Mail checks made out to Jon Johanson to:
Eustace Bowhay
3331 McBride Rd. RR#1
Blind Bay B.C. VOE 1H1
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Not necessarily true...
If you go to http://registry.faa.gov, you can download the current database of reserved and registered aircraft numbers. The database "dump" is 22 meg, a hefty download for a 56K connection. You can open up these files with something like Wordpad, but it will take forever. Just for kicks one day I loaded the data into an Oracle database just to search to see how many RV's are registered out there...there was a ton of them...whenever I get my plane done I was planning on hooking it up to a website. John, you can email me the numbers to search for and I can see if they're available.
I actually took the time to update my website last night...
Bob Japundza
RV-6 painting wings this weekend
http://members.iquest.net/~bjapundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint - was Panel Labeling |
Randy,
Your "6" looks beautiful and at 1072, the weight is very good. Thanks for
posting the pictures and reports.
Garry "6" finishing, flying this year.
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
> Thanks for the kind words.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Well..Just in case you can't find it here it is again. (405) 954-3116.
That is the only number there is so sometimes you may be on hold for a bit.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:42:26 +1000
>
>
> I called them direct. I got a very nice lady who did the search right
>then
>and there I finally found one I though would do. I couldn't the one I
>really wanted. She even looked up a couple more alternate numbers just in
>case somebody had sent in a request while I was talking to her. I got the
>first one I asked for.
> The number to call is in the archives somewhere. I don't have access to
>my
>notes so I can give it to you, sorry.
>
> Bob
>
>
> > ----------
> > From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 12:15 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
> >
> >
> > I just applied for my N-number and I received a letter today from the
>FAA
> > saying all 5 of my requests were not available. I had did a search on
>the
> > numbers I sent them but evidently they were unlisted.
> >
> > John Danielson
> > Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives - Dynacam? |
Actually, they just got the engine certificated. I haven't seen it in any
aircraft either but they must have soemthing or they wouldn't be able to get
the type certificate. They also have a web site now but I don't know what
it is. I found they using a search engine (pun intended).
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbines alternatives - Dynacam?
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 08:34:27 +0200
>
>
>----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Newman <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com>
>|
>|Piper bit on the Dynacam and flew one on a Cherokee some years
>|ago. The project didn't last long. - Bob
>|
>
>Why? Details?
>Ronen.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello Listers,
Yesterday I received a gift from work of a Scott oxygen bottle made from
aluminum/composite. The regulator, hose, flowmeter, needle valve, tubing,
mask, etc. is not there. I have three requests for quotes out to Scott,
Areox, and Mtn High. I have no experieice with the use of oxygen in a plane
except I think its a good idea at the upper altitudes.
Is there any catch with using oxygen that I should be aware of? Any
preferred brands of components listed above? Any vendors I should stay away
from? Any other words of wisdom from the more experienced than I?
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 89 hrs
Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Source for Drill Bushings? |
Listers: This is probably a dumb question and I searched the archives
but drew a blank. Where do you guys get your drill bushings for jobs like
drilling the engine mount to the firewall?
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
OK, I know how big a pain this can be so let me offer my services here.
Beware though, as I can't guarantee anything but I do have access to the
most current data. Once you have gotten your three choices together email
me and I will search the database to see if they are taken yet. I can
generally have an answer to you within a day, except on weekends. I want to
work on my plane too.
If you want it done today then hurry as I will be leaving tomorrow and
slowly headed for Arlington for the Airshow, then off to New York City, then
home for some much needed vacation. In other words I will be out of the
office for the next month.
Look forward to putting faces to names and maybe a ride or two.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 05:22:57 -0700
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <MTMCGOWAN(at)AOL.COM>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 9:54 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:N Numbers
>
>
> >
> > WHAT IS THE SEARCH ENGINE SITE FOR N-NUMBERS
> >
>
>Go to www.landings.com and click on "databases" at the bottom. Be sure to
>search both the "reserved n number" and "n number" databases to see if a
>number may be available.
>
>Jerry Carter
>RV-8A
>Still wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad battery resurrection |
Shoot, I have the same thing on my new Makita battery. I have been sursing
out spending so much for a battery and was about to throw it away. I'll
give your idea a try and see if it works. With my luck on these things
though I will probably still have to get a new battery.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
"Arlington Bound" in the other RV
>From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:30:55 -0500
>
>
>My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
>because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
>cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
>forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
>charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
>
>The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
>aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
>unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I
>rigged
>up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like
>the
>old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
>over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to
>hold
>it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
>drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
>it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
>out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an
>hour...
>got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
>normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
>indicator indicates a full charge...
>
>FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
>
>Johnny Johnson
>49MM -3 flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
One other thought on my idea to hook this database up to a web page for you
all to use... I'm looking at their description of the file now, and am not
sure it contains reservations. Is it only active aircraft registrations, or
does it include reserved N-numbers? Bob?
Troy
-----Original Message-----
From: Japundza, Bob [mailto:bjapundza(at)dowagro.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 11:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: N Numbers
Not necessarily true...
If you go to http://registry.faa.gov, you can download the current database
of reserved and registered aircraft numbers. The database "dump" is 22 meg,
a hefty download for a 56K connection. You can open up these files with
something like Wordpad, but it will take forever. Just for kicks one day I
loaded the data into an Oracle database just to search to see how many RV's
are registered out there...there was a ton of them...whenever I get my plane
done I was planning on hooking it up to a website. John, you can email me
the numbers to search for and I can see if they're available.
I actually took the time to update my website last night...
Bob Japundza
RV-6 painting wings this weekend
http://members.iquest.net/~bjapundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
And to answer my own question :-)
I see in the database layout that there is a field for the status of the
registration, and that field CAN indicate 'reserved but not registered'.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Source for Drill Bushings? |
Harry...the drill bushings are just pieces of tubing (brass, bronze, steel, whatever)
with the OD matching the ID of whatever you're drilling through...you can
use just about anything, but the harder the better. If you can't find tubing
of the appropriate size at a hardware store, go down to your local hobby shop
and try to find some there...usually most hobby shops have K&S Engineering
displays with various sizes of tubing, rod, or bar. If all else fails visit a
local machine shop and if they don't have some in a bin somewhere have them make
them up on a lathe out of bar stock.
Hope this helps.
Bob Japundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Who's going to Arlington? |
Hi all,
Mike Robertson mentioned he's taking some time off and is going to Arlington.
How many other listers will be flying up or attending? I know a couple of the
SoCal-rvlist'ers are flying up.
I've been preping my RV-6 for the flight, getting all those little details finished
that I put off until after the test period was over. I'm taking the whole
week off and doing some sight seeing/visiting friends on the way up. I'll be
flying into Arlington on Wednesday morning, and leaving on Sunday, weather permitting.
My parents will be driving the motorhome (I call it the RV ground support unit)
and will be arriving on Tuesday. Dad will take the towcar down to Vernonia on
Thursday and Friday to fly with Mike Seager. If he passes Mike's tests, we'll
transition him into N515L on Saturday. I may fly out on Thursday to give Mom
a little sight seeing tour of the beautiful country around there. Other than
that you should be able to find me in the RV area standing next to N515L.
Just look for the White/Blue RV-6 with the primered cowlings. You can see a shot
of the airplane at:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/laird244198/Laird_RV-6_N515L/
(I'll have that cowl painted by Homecoming).
If your there, be sure to stop by and say Hi. I'll be wearing the list name tag
the Steve Davis for us all. (Thanks Steve).
See you all there,
Laird RV-6 N515L (26 hrs and checking the NOTAM)
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbines alternatives - Dynacam? |
Ive seen the engine run on a test stand at the Copperstate fly-in the
last several years. The first time I think was in 97. I asked the rep if he
could direct me to any flying examples. Answer was no. I asked if anyone
was currently installing the engine on an aircraft that would be flying
soon. Again no. He handed me a pamphlet with lots of pretty pictures (not
of the cobbled together engine on the stand) and info listing the specs of
the engine along with lots of data about the company and the statement
"investors wanted" or something to that effect.
Their display was in the alternative power section of the flight line.
Coincidently very near 2 flying examples of Mazda powered RVs that flew
into Copperstate, 1 from Washington state, the other from Florida. I
decided at that time that the Mazda is a much more viable alternative
engine if I want to fly in my lifetime.
The dynacam doesnt really appear to address any of the issues with
current recip engines. Its mechanically complex, isnt significantly
lighter, requires liquid cooling, doesnt fit on an RV airframe, and needs a
prop that wont fit on an RV airframe. I suppose an airframe custom designed
for this powerplant would perform reasonably well someday but I dont see it
for an RV.
Mike Wills
RV4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
>
>Actually, they just got the engine certificated. I haven't seen it in any
>aircraft either but they must have soemthing or they wouldn't be able to get
>the type certificate. They also have a web site now but I don't know what
>it is. I found they using a search engine (pun intended).
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Source for Drill Bushings? |
Not sure what a drill bushing is----- but I used a Black-N-Decker Bullet drill
(Home Depo) to find a center using the inside diameter of the tube as a guide.
I
then needed to ream to size because the factory welding closed up the ID of the
tube a bit. I fought this one for a while untill someone told me this combo. The
other three holes took 30 seconds to cut & ream.........
HCRV6(at)aol.com on 06/28/2000 01:11:27 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Source for Drill Bushings?
Listers: This is probably a dumb question and I searched the archives
but drew a blank. Where do you guys get your drill bushings for jobs like
drilling the engine mount to the firewall?
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | EXP-2V load center |
Does anyone have any experience with the EXP-2V load center? Vans has
it in the catalog and their website was intriguing. It's a board that
provides circuit & overvoltage protection neatly integrated with toggle
switches. It looks like it would make wiring up the airplane a
comparative snap. Comments?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
gear boxes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad battery resurrection |
Deep cycling NiCds does work most of the time, but if you would like to
avoid this altogether, switch to NiMH. These have 2 major advantages; they
do not have the "memory" phenomenon, and the energy density is far higher.
We are converting most products over and we can replace a 600mah "A" cell
with a 1300mah "A" cell. Same physical size, but runs twice as long. The one
down side is the internal impedance is higher, so you can't draw as high
currents. We reliably draw 2.3 amps continuous duty and surges up to 4.8
amps from the NiMH batteries. Under the same application, you can get 6-8
amp surges from NiCd. You do have to be more careful about leaving them on a
trickle charger.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Johnny Johnson <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 4:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>
> My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
> because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
> cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
> forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
> charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
>
> The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
> aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
> unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I
rigged
> up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like
the
> old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
> over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to
hold
> it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
> drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
> it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
> out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an
hour...
> got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
> normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
> indicator indicates a full charge...
>
> FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
>
> Johnny Johnson
> 49MM -3 flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | C&F Hiatt <hiattcf(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad battery resurrection |
Be aware that if your "battery" has more than one cell (1.2v) you need
to stop the deep discharge when the battery voltage reaches 1.1v per
cell, if not you run the risk of reverse charging any cells which go
below 0.0v. That in effect ruins that cell.
Fred H.
Johnny Johnson wrote:
>
>
> My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
> because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
> cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
> forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
> charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
>
> The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
> aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
> unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I rigged
> up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like the
> old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
> over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to hold
> it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
> drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
> it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
> out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an hour...
> got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
> normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
> indicator indicates a full charge...
>
> FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
>
> Johnny Johnson
> 49MM -3 flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Team Rocket throttle quadrants |
What is the website for the throttle quadrants?
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Team Rocket throttle quadrants |
Go to: www.teamrocketaircraft.com/catalog.htm and search for
'throttle'.
Ken
Greg Yotz wrote:
>
> What is the website for the throttle quadrants?
>
> Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Team Rocket throttle quadrants |
In a message dated 6/28/2000 3:39:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
gyachts(at)kans.com writes:
<< What is the website for the throttle quadrants?
Greg
>>
www.teamrocketaircraft.cpom
go to the catalog and search for them
chris wilcox
f1 rocket kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | A Rocket in my future |
Greetings folks.
I think there is a Rocket in my future, but before I run off and write a
check, I have a couple of concerns that I'm hoping you can answer.
First, Team's web site gives performance specs at 230 mph Vc @ 75%, 250
Vmax, and 3500 fpm climb at sea level with an IO-540. For those of you
already flying, are these numbers realistic? And, for the Harmon too?
What is different about the Rockets that allow these speeds which are well
in excess of Van's Vne for the RV-4?
I'm also wondering how sticking an extra 100+ lbs of steel on the front end
of an RV-4 effects CG, stall/spin, glide slope, etc...
Can someone address the quality of Harmon's and Team's parts, plans, and
customer support.
And to continue that firestorm, in regards to performance and engineering
quality, the inevitable "which is better" must be asked.
Finally, (at least for now), I understand the Harmon requires a good
relation with Vans at least in that I would depend on him to sell me parts.
However Van has said that he would not sell to known Rocket builders. Have
you had any problems ordering parts or kits from Van.
Thanks
Andy
RV-6A N-5060 (flying, but need more PoWer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad battery resurrection |
I have the same problem with my 195.
What is the difference in draining it with a bulb verses draining with the
GPS?
Electronically challenged,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse/wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I rigged
up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like the
old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to hold
it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an hour...
got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
indicator indicates a full charge...
FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
Hi Rick,
I bought an Aerox system about a year ago and I love it. I think that they
sell all of the "goodies" separately and can set you up with your bottle.
They have a website at www.aerox.com .
Living in this part of the country "going high" is a given if you want to go
anywhere, but I would do it even if I lived in the billiard-table parts of
the country on trips of 2 hours or more. I regularly fly at 11,500-13,500
and true out at 180mph burning 6gph or less. It takes less than 15 minutes
to get up there from 2500', the ride is a lot smoother, and there are a LOT
more options for forced landings. Plus you can pick up some monster
tailwinds up there. I've seen as high as 250mph on the GPS. (yes, you can
pick up some big headwinds too, but I try not to fly that high in that case)
It's quite amazing to fly along at 12,500' and pass over terrain that is
only 1000' below you while you are looking UP at the peak next to you.
With my "D" sized bottle (13cu ft) and the Oxysaver cannulas I get about 7-8
hours of use with 2 people. Then I refill it myself with a welding type
oxygen bottle and it costs me about $2 per refill. I don't want to get into
a flame-war with anyone on this, if you don't want to do it, then don't, but
you might want to read the excellent article on AvWeb first...
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
> Yesterday I received a gift from work of a Scott oxygen bottle made from
> aluminum/composite. The regulator, hose, flowmeter, needle valve, tubing,
> mask, etc. is not there. I have three requests for quotes out to Scott,
> Areox, and Mtn High. I have no experieice with the use of oxygen in a
plane
> except I think its a good idea at the upper altitudes.
>
> Is there any catch with using oxygen that I should be aware of? Any
> preferred brands of components listed above? Any vendors I should stay
away
> from? Any other words of wisdom from the more experienced than I?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Footwell Scuff Plates |
Lots of certified aircraft have scuff plates over the carpet for the pilot
and front seat passenger to rest their heels on while working the rudder
pedals/brakes. I can't figure out how these are mechanically attached to the
carpet without digging into the structure below the carpet.
Anyone got experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | NiCad battery resurrection |
G'Day Mike,
I always discharge my Makita batteries from my drills by putting them in the
Makita torch I have. I've got one battery that's nearly 8 years old now and
still going strong, in fact the drill it came with is nearing the end of its
life with a faulty switch - too many rivet holes :-)
Cheers
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
Shoot, I have the same thing on my new Makita battery. I have been sursing
out spending so much for a battery and was about to throw it away. I'll
give your idea a try and see if it works. With my luck on these things
though I will probably still have to get a new battery.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
"Arlington Bound" in the other RV
>From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:30:55 -0500
>
>
>My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
>because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
>cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
>forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
>charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
>
>The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
>aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
>unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I
>rigged
>up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like
>the
>old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
>over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to
>hold
>it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
>drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
>it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
>out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an
>hour...
>got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
>normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
>indicator indicates a full charge...
>
>FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
>
>Johnny Johnson
>49MM -3 flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> Yesterday I received a gift from work of a Scott
> oxygen bottle made from
> aluminum/composite. The regulator, hose, flowmeter,
> needle valve, tubing,
> mask, etc. is not there. I have three requests for
> quotes out to Scott,
> Areox, and Mtn High. I have no experieice with the
> use of oxygen in a plane
> except I think its a good idea at the upper
> altitudes.
>
> Is there any catch with using oxygen that I should
> be aware of? Any
> preferred brands of components listed above? Any
> vendors I should stay away
> from? Any other words of wisdom from the more
> experienced than I?
>
> Rick Caldwell
> RV-6 89 hrs
> Melbourne, FL
>
Rick:
I have a 9 cu ft Aerox system. I is GREAT on cross
country flights. When going more than one leg, I put
it on going above 9,500 feet. I have also been put it
on 30 minutes before landing. It keeps you more
alert, you are not tired at your destination, and you
do not have a headache after a long day of flying.
I recommend getting the Oxygen saving Cannulas. My 9
cu ft tank is good for at least 8 man hours.
The cost of all the stuff you requested a quote on may
seam high but the O2 in the airplane is worth it in my
opinion. I paid $65 US for some tubing and a set of
disconnects. This allows me to run a long lines from
the regulator to the 2 needle valves so that the tank
can be located out of reach. (That was the reason for
the purchase but it is not used that way.)
With my manual flaps, I can place the O2 cylinder
horizontal on the floor behing the copilot seat in
front of the flap torque tube. I use the extra line
and quick connect to run the copilot connection up the
right side of the aircraft where they can get and
adjust their own. I am able to reach over the flap
handle and turn the needle valve and tank on / off.
Cost has been from $17 to $25 US to refill. Been
planning for over a year to get a setup like Ed Bundy
has to refill my own.
Hope this helps.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | NiCad battery resurrection |
Back in the days of my youth I used to race nicad-powered radio-controlled
offroad cars, and there were battery cyclers that would automatically bring
the battery up to full charge, by discharging and recharging the battery
until it was at its full potential. I imagine they are still available and
probably much better and cheaper nowadays...
Anyway, to answer your question Larry, the GPS (my Garmin does the same
thing) has lo-volt circuitry built in to the unit that shuts itself off
before the low voltage threshold is reached...to bypass it on the Garmins go
into the main setup menu and select alkaline batteries even if you have
nicad batteries in it. I believe they have this feature to keep you from
discharging your nicads to the point where the polarity can reverse. With
the bulb you are discharging the battery completely. You run the risk of
ruining your batteries by doing this, but if you're careful you won't have
the memory problem.
On my cordless drill, I always discharge the battery with a rubberband
around the trigger before charging, but I never leave it sitting like that
for the following reason: I ruined a RG-25XC last winter by not keeping an
eye on it, and my clock ran the battery down so low the polarity reversed.
My charger, which has a polarity light on it, didn't light up when I hooked
it up so I thought everything was OK; I thought I hadn't had the leads
hooked up backwards. It was dark under the panel and I didn't pay attention
to it...when I came back a few hours later the battery swelled more than I
could believe...I about s*** my pants thinking the thing was going to
explode inside my airplane...the battery was making burbling noises and I
was afraid to pick it up. Be careful, you can blow those things up. Its
also a great alternative to throwing a $100 bill in the toilet.
Bob Japundza
http://members.iquest.net~bjapundza
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 5:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>
>
>
> I have the same problem with my 195.
>
> What is the difference in draining it with a bulb verses
> draining with the
> GPS?
>
> Electronically challenged,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse/wings
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:30 AM
> Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>
>
>
> My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
> because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
> cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low
> battery power. I'd
> forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they
> say never to
> charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
>
> The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done
> with nicad
> aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets
> drained on the GPS
> unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a
> memory. So, I rigged
> up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has
> terminals like the
> old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent
> wires folded up
> over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a
> rubber band to hold
> it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery
> was totally
> drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery,
> then drained
> it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it
> went completely
> out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle,
> over an hour...
> got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
> normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the
> little battery
> indicator indicates a full charge...
>
> FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
>
> Johnny Johnson
> 49MM -3 flying
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Rocket in my future |
Thanks
Andy
RV-6A N-5060 (flying, but need more PoWer)
>>
I will try to answer your questions as honestly as possible. But you will
need to keep in mind I have a close relationship to Team Rocket Aircraft as I
am now publishing the manuals and some other things for them. I am also the
owner of Kit # 000, which is the prototype.
First, Team's web site gives performance specs at 230 mph Vc @ 75%, 250
Vmax, and 3500 fpm climb at sea level with an IO-540. For those of you
already flying, are these numbers realistic? And, for the Harmon too?
I have not flown my rocket yet, but those numbers are very realistic. They
come directly from Mark Fredricks aircraft ( president of team rocket) which
is a quasi F1 harmon Rocket II hybrid. His plane also only has a 240 hp
engine. He basically says any and every F1 will meet those figures. If your
building is better then average or you use a bigger engine you will go
faster. Much faster. I am not sure about the harmon, but i would think
there very realistic also. There are rockets out there with 300 plus
horsepower motors that are cruising well over 250 mph
What is different about the Rockets that allow these speeds which are well
in excess of Van's Vne for the RV-4?
Heavier Skins, clipped wings with same number of ribs and other misc things.
I'm also wondering how sticking an extra 100+ lbs of steel on the front end
of an RV-4 effects CG, stall/spin, glide slope, etc...
Well, its not a RV4. I will start with the F1. Basically its not a RV4 its
longer and wider. There isnt a CG problem. Harmon rockets are similar but
they do start out with a RV fuselage so you have to be carefull on CG. In
talking to Ken Fowler who does areobatics at shows with his Harmon ROcket you
do have a CG concern. Especially if you have a 3 bladed prop. It must be
composite to keep the weight down
Can someone address the quality of Harmon's and Team's parts, plans, and
customer support.
I cant say anything about Harmons as i havent purchased anything from them.
However everything I have recieved from Team rocket was first rate. The
customer support is great. You have a problem you call Mark and he walks you
through it.
There has been a shortage of parts for team rocket, but thats working itslef
out. That comes with a new company and also wanting only the best parts,
alot of stuff has had to be sent back and redone since it wasnt good enough.
THe plans from team rocket. Well we wont say to many bad things about Mark.
Other then he should stick to designing and building aircraft and not
producing plans on the computer. The plans are not complete, basically since
they use pictures of an F1 to build show you what goes where and there isnt a
finished f1 yet. However since I have started working on the manuals for
Mark they are getting cleaned up. Also we will be adding updates to the
manuals so it will work just fine.
I have never build an aircraft before no have I build anything like this
before, but I am doing ok.
And to continue that firestorm, in regards to performance and engineering
quality, the inevitable "which is better" must be asked.
I have to say the F1. I am not saying that since there is anything wrong
with the Harmon Rocket. The reason I am saying it is that the F1 is one
aircraft. It was designed to be an f1. THe harmon rocket is an RV4 that is
modified with the rocket kit. Also I think the F1 is one of the most
complete kits on the market.
In regards to buying parts from Vans. If you buy an F1 you wont deal with
Vans at all. So it doenst matter. If you buy a harmon well you better be
nice to vans since its a RV4.
Both are great airplanes. I went with the F1 for the following reasons.
I am friends with Mark.
Mark offered me more advice then Harmons
I wanted a QB kit.
Also I think the F1 looks better.
Those are the reasons.
Take this for whats its worth, but you will not go wrong with either airplane.
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket Kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | NiCad battery resurrection |
Ain't Makitas great. Mine is approaching the same age and still going
strong. The battery that came with it is also doing good. The problem
Battery (child) is the new one I bought about a year and a half ago. I am
just hoping that I didn't either overcharge it (doubtful) or somehow drained
it way too much and reverse the polarity. I am going to try draining and
chargeing it again a couple of times before I toss it, suck up the sigh, and
buy a new one.
Mike R.
>From: "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RE: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:05:10 +1000
>
>
>
>G'Day Mike,
>
>I always discharge my Makita batteries from my drills by putting them in
>the
>Makita torch I have. I've got one battery that's nearly 8 years old now
>and
>still going strong, in fact the drill it came with is nearing the end of
>its
>life with a faulty switch - too many rivet holes :-)
>
>Cheers
>
>John Morrissey
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 5:23 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>
>
>Shoot, I have the same thing on my new Makita battery. I have been
>sursing
>
>out spending so much for a battery and was about to throw it away. I'll
>give your idea a try and see if it works. With my luck on these things
>though I will probably still have to get a new battery.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>"Arlington Bound" in the other RV
>
>
> >From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "RV List"
> >Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
> >Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:30:55 -0500
> >
> >
> >My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
> >because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
> >cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power.
>I'd
> >forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
> >charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
> >
> >The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
> >aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
> >unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I
> >rigged
> >up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like
> >the
> >old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
> >over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to
> >hold
> >it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
> >drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
> >it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
> >out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an
> >hour...
> >got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
> >normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
> >indicator indicates a full charge...
> >
> >FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
> >
> >Johnny Johnson
> >49MM -3 flying
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Footwell Scuff Plates |
Kyle,
You could rivet it through your carpet by putting another plate on the
bottom side of the carpet. The plate on the under side would give the rivets
something to hold on to. Pop rivets are an option, but they have the bulge
underneath that might interfer with something below them. Hope this helps.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | trim tab spar rivets |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm ready to rivet the trim tab skin to the spar and I think I need a new
yoke for my squeezer to set the rivets on the bottom of the spar - my 3"
yoke certainly won't do the job. For you folks that have done this, will an
Avery longeron yoke reach over the spar? I expect this yoke would be useful
elsewhere as I move further into this project. What say ye?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM |
>
> 250 hp is in the 75% cruise range for me and a lot of the Rocket (either
> one) guys.
>
> Boyd
> RV S6
Boyd, sure the Super 6 and the Rockets are clearly exceptions. Both have
structural mods to allow a faster VNE. So, you (lucky) guys can use that
much h.p. But I was commenting on a question about putting a gas-trubine in
a standard RV-8, which just cant use 250hp in cruse without exceeding VNE.
BTW Boyd, any chance you are going to Oshkosh this year? Sure would like to
meet you and maybe get a ride in your super 6. :-)
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM |
> H'mmmmmmmm
> Lycoming cranks cant take it? Care to elaborate on that one?
> Tom McIntyre
> RV3 978TM
Uh oh, ;-) I hope I haven't started something. I'll try to keep this brief
'cause I'm sure several others are tired hearing me knock the Lycoming/tout
the rotary. The basis for my statement is as follows:
In the 3 years I have been following this list and researching my own engine
conversion there have been too many to count tirades about excessive AD's on
crankshafts. Search the archives, you'll find plenty. I remember hearing a
story about an owner who had to fork out a couple grand to AD his crank shaft
on a brand new engine before it ever ran. A good friend of mine snapped the
crank on his Cont. TSIO550 on the first flight of his Lancair IV-P. I think
it is generally accepted that the crankshaft is really the heart of a
certified engine - and they just aren't that strong. If they were strong
(read: overbuilt), expensive AD's wouldn't be necessary because minor flaws
could easily be tolerated. The crankshaft really limits the max hp you can
hope to get out of a Lyc. (Endurance h.p. is probably limited by the exhaust
valves - and that is a different story). IMHO, you would have to be nuts to
turbo boost (ie. go beyond turbo-normalize) or otherwise significantly
soup-up an O-360 and still use the stock crankshaft, it just cant take it!
The few guys who have tinkered with their 360's have very short TBO's for
just that reason.
In contrast (and I'm sorry, I really didn't want to make this another root
for the rotary session), the car racers regularly boost up their 13B engines
to 650hp with STOCK e-shafts. Sure, like any race engine they sometimes self
destruct at that power. An apex seal blows (cutting hp in half), or maybe
they detonate and rip the engine apart and limp on back in, or the tranny
snaps, etc... but the e-shafts never fail! Anyone care to guess how long a
stock O-360 crankshaft would last if it were asked to put out 650hp? I don't
know either, but I wouldn't want to be anywhere nearby if you tried it.
Dave Leonard
RV-6, Canopy
N4VY reserved
Turbo Mazda 13B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: locating R-803 |
Hokay, I give up...I don't see a dimension anywhere on any drawing that shows where/how
to locate the R-803 on the top of the rudder spar. Can anyone help me?
John Lawson
Scratching his head again over those RV-6 drawings...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A Canopy Bo-Bo |
I finally did the biggest mistake so far on my std. kit -8A. After 950 hours
I started the canopy with lots of caution, probably cutting the plexi at
least 20 times to get the right fit on the steel canopy frame. Then came the
time to pop rivet the plexi to the steel, 3 times on each side prior to
fitting the skirt. On the third pop rivet it cracked upwards about an inch
using the hand set. It ran fast upwards, but I was able to stop drill w/ No.
40. Now the crack, happened twice, several inches apart, is about an inch
and half from the center of the drilled hole. I can probably trim the skirt
down and still hide the cracks from the outside, but I'll be high with the
skirt. Most of the 8"s I've seen trim the skirt about an inch high from the
center of the hole. What wisdom have others before me have for advise ??
Leave the skirt high and cover the insides w/ a decal X2 ??
What caused this crack after all was I was not at exact 90 Deg drilling to
the frame.. That's for certain, now comes the challenge to hide these two
cracks.
BTW.. The skirt fits like a glove, no need to cut it in half, minimal
trimming, maybe 10 hours and it's done.
Any Suggestions ??
Thanks,
Doug Gardner 80717
Palm Harbor Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: locating R-803 |
In a message dated 6/28/00 8:47:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
jwlawson(at)hargray.com writes:
<< .I don't see a dimension anywhere on any drawing that shows where/how to
locate the R-803 on the top of the rudder spar. >>
From the front edge of the R-803 to the back edge of the rudder spar is 8
1/16"
Shown on drawing 7PP (top left). According the revision box on my drawings,
they just added this dimension as of my plans dated 01/06/00.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Kabong is back on line |
GREAT BIG THANKS for all the good thoughts and prayers, I'll enclued y'all
in mine. Not up to full steam very but better everyday. Both arms swo;;en
from IV problems so message is short. One story: Tom "Gummibear" Gummo
brought me a Flightline paper with a Playboy in it. You how fighter jock
are. Anyway my Pastor came by and just openned the books (both) was wide
eyed when my wife and nurse walked it. Caught like a boy with his hand in
the cookie jar. Great fun, red faces all about, I wrote "Its just for the
articles" ( no can talk you know)
that didnt fly either. GOD BLESS US ALL. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Footwell Scuff Plates |
I have the scuff plates offered by Cleaveland Aircraft & Tool supply,,,
If I remember correctly, they are mounted to the carpet with some
very short, solid flush rivets using a backing washer on the bottom
side. What I did to protect the floor was first, "over-set" the rivet
so it was as small as possible, then I used velcro strips,
strategically placed on the back side of the carpet covering the shop
heads of the rivets, with the matching velcro attached to the floor
boards. The carpet I used was standard, aircraft-grade "FAA-approved"
that had a rubberized backing which allowed the velcro to stick very
nicely.
>
>
>Lots of certified aircraft have scuff plates over the carpet for the pilot
>and front seat passenger to rest their heels on while working the rudder
>pedals/brakes. I can't figure out how these are mechanically attached to the
>carpet without digging into the structure below the carpet.
>
>Anyone got experience with this?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kyle Boatright
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4 N184DA
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Odyssey Batteries |
I just bought an Odyssey battery for my O-360 RV-8, but not the one Van's
sells. He sells the PC680, and I bought the PC625 for $100 from Batteries
Plus. The PC680 goes in motorcycles, and the PC625 goes in watercraft. The
salesman assured me (if you can believe these guys) that the 625 is almost
identical to the 680. It has the same Ah rating, one minute less reserve
capacity, and a CA (something to do with cranking ability) of 350A vs 360A
for the 680. The dimensions are almost the same as the 680, and it is 1.5
lbs lighter. There is an excellant web site describing all the Odyssey
batteries and their specs on www.hepi.com/odyssey.htm. Won't know how it
performs for eight months or so.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 empennage fairing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: EXP-2V load center |
In a message dated 6/28/00 1:39:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Does anyone have any experience with the EXP-2V load center? Vans has
it in the catalog and their website was intriguing. It's a board that
provides circuit & overvoltage protection neatly integrated with toggle
switches. It looks like it would make wiring up the airplane a
comparative snap. Comments? >>
Check the archives for EXP-Bus.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Source for Drill Bushings? |
In a message dated 6/28/00 12:57:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< This is probably a dumb question and I searched the archives
but drew a blank. Where do you guys get your drill bushings for jobs like
drilling the engine mount to the firewall? >>
Harry-
Just use some scrap steel tubing as a bushing to drill to the inside dia.
Remove the tubing and then chase the hole with a drill size just under the
final diameter. Ream to final size.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad battery resurrection |
I have the same problem with my 195.
What is the difference in draining it with a bulb verses draining with the
GPS?
Electronically challenged,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse/wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I rigged
up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like the
old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to hold
it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an hour...
got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
indicator indicates a full charge...
FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003817158@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
28 Jun 2000 15:44:03.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Footwell Scuff Plates |
Lots of certified aircraft have scuff plates over the carpet for the pilot
and front seat passenger to rest their heels on while working the rudder
pedals/brakes. I can't figure out how these are mechanically attached to the
carpet without digging into the structure below the carpet.
Anyone got experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
Hi Rick,
I bought an Aerox system about a year ago and I love it. I think that they
sell all of the "goodies" separately and can set you up with your bottle.
They have a website at www.aerox.com .
Living in this part of the country "going high" is a given if you want to go
anywhere, but I would do it even if I lived in the billiard-table parts of
the country on trips of 2 hours or more. I regularly fly at 11,500-13,500
and true out at 180mph burning 6gph or less. It takes less than 15 minutes
to get up there from 2500', the ride is a lot smoother, and there are a LOT
more options for forced landings. Plus you can pick up some monster
tailwinds up there. I've seen as high as 250mph on the GPS. (yes, you can
pick up some big headwinds too, but I try not to fly that high in that case)
It's quite amazing to fly along at 12,500' and pass over terrain that is
only 1000' below you while you are looking UP at the peak next to you.
With my "D" sized bottle (13cu ft) and the Oxysaver cannulas I get about 7-8
hours of use with 2 people. Then I refill it myself with a welding type
oxygen bottle and it costs me about $2 per refill. I don't want to get into
a flame-war with anyone on this, if you don't want to do it, then don't, but
you might want to read the excellent article on AvWeb first...
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
> Yesterday I received a gift from work of a Scott oxygen bottle made from
> aluminum/composite. The regulator, hose, flowmeter, needle valve, tubing,
> mask, etc. is not there. I have three requests for quotes out to Scott,
> Areox, and Mtn High. I have no experieice with the use of oxygen in a
plane
> except I think its a good idea at the upper altitudes.
>
> Is there any catch with using oxygen that I should be aware of? Any
> preferred brands of components listed above? Any vendors I should stay
away
> from? Any other words of wisdom from the more experienced than I?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | NiCad battery resurrection |
G'Day Mike,
I always discharge my Makita batteries from my drills by putting them in the
Makita torch I have. I've got one battery that's nearly 8 years old now and
still going strong, in fact the drill it came with is nearing the end of its
life with a faulty switch - too many rivet holes :-)
Cheers
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
Shoot, I have the same thing on my new Makita battery. I have been sursing
out spending so much for a battery and was about to throw it away. I'll
give your idea a try and see if it works. With my luck on these things
though I will probably still have to get a new battery.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
"Arlington Bound" in the other RV
>From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:30:55 -0500
>
>
>My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
>because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
>cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
>forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
>charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
>
>The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
>aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
>unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I
>rigged
>up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like
>the
>old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
>over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to
>hold
>it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
>drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
>it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
>out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an
>hour...
>got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
>normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
>indicator indicates a full charge...
>
>FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
>
>Johnny Johnson
>49MM -3 flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> Yesterday I received a gift from work of a Scott
> oxygen bottle made from
> aluminum/composite. The regulator, hose, flowmeter,
> needle valve, tubing,
> mask, etc. is not there. I have three requests for
> quotes out to Scott,
> Areox, and Mtn High. I have no experieice with the
> use of oxygen in a plane
> except I think its a good idea at the upper
> altitudes.
>
> Is there any catch with using oxygen that I should
> be aware of? Any
> preferred brands of components listed above? Any
> vendors I should stay away
> from? Any other words of wisdom from the more
> experienced than I?
>
> Rick Caldwell
> RV-6 89 hrs
> Melbourne, FL
>
Rick:
I have a 9 cu ft Aerox system. I is GREAT on cross
country flights. When going more than one leg, I put
it on going above 9,500 feet. I have also been put it
on 30 minutes before landing. It keeps you more
alert, you are not tired at your destination, and you
do not have a headache after a long day of flying.
I recommend getting the Oxygen saving Cannulas. My 9
cu ft tank is good for at least 8 man hours.
The cost of all the stuff you requested a quote on may
seam high but the O2 in the airplane is worth it in my
opinion. I paid $65 US for some tubing and a set of
disconnects. This allows me to run a long lines from
the regulator to the 2 needle valves so that the tank
can be located out of reach. (That was the reason for
the purchase but it is not used that way.)
With my manual flaps, I can place the O2 cylinder
horizontal on the floor behing the copilot seat in
front of the flap torque tube. I use the extra line
and quick connect to run the copilot connection up the
right side of the aircraft where they can get and
adjust their own. I am able to reach over the flap
handle and turn the needle valve and tank on / off.
Cost has been from $17 to $25 US to refill. Been
planning for over a year to get a setup like Ed Bundy
has to refill my own.
Hope this helps.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | NiCad battery resurrection |
Back in the days of my youth I used to race nicad-powered radio-controlled
offroad cars, and there were battery cyclers that would automatically bring
the battery up to full charge, by discharging and recharging the battery
until it was at its full potential. I imagine they are still available and
probably much better and cheaper nowadays...
Anyway, to answer your question Larry, the GPS (my Garmin does the same
thing) has lo-volt circuitry built in to the unit that shuts itself off
before the low voltage threshold is reached...to bypass it on the Garmins go
into the main setup menu and select alkaline batteries even if you have
nicad batteries in it. I believe they have this feature to keep you from
discharging your nicads to the point where the polarity can reverse. With
the bulb you are discharging the battery completely. You run the risk of
ruining your batteries by doing this, but if you're careful you won't have
the memory problem.
On my cordless drill, I always discharge the battery with a rubberband
around the trigger before charging, but I never leave it sitting like that
for the following reason: I ruined a RG-25XC last winter by not keeping an
eye on it, and my clock ran the battery down so low the polarity reversed.
My charger, which has a polarity light on it, didn't light up when I hooked
it up so I thought everything was OK; I thought I hadn't had the leads
hooked up backwards. It was dark under the panel and I didn't pay attention
to it...when I came back a few hours later the battery swelled more than I
could believe...I about s*** my pants thinking the thing was going to
explode inside my airplane...the battery was making burbling noises and I
was afraid to pick it up. Be careful, you can blow those things up. Its
also a great alternative to throwing a $100 bill in the toilet.
Bob Japundza
http://members.iquest.net~bjapundza
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 5:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>
>
>
> I have the same problem with my 195.
>
> What is the difference in draining it with a bulb verses
> draining with the
> GPS?
>
> Electronically challenged,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse/wings
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
> To: "RV List"
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:30 AM
> Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>
>
>
> My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
> because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
> cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low
> battery power. I'd
> forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they
> say never to
> charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
>
> The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done
> with nicad
> aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets
> drained on the GPS
> unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a
> memory. So, I rigged
> up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has
> terminals like the
> old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent
> wires folded up
> over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a
> rubber band to hold
> it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery
> was totally
> drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery,
> then drained
> it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it
> went completely
> out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle,
> over an hour...
> got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
> normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the
> little battery
> indicator indicates a full charge...
>
> FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
>
> Johnny Johnson
> 49MM -3 flying
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | NiCad battery resurrection |
Ain't Makitas great. Mine is approaching the same age and still going
strong. The battery that came with it is also doing good. The problem
Battery (child) is the new one I bought about a year and a half ago. I am
just hoping that I didn't either overcharge it (doubtful) or somehow drained
it way too much and reverse the polarity. I am going to try draining and
chargeing it again a couple of times before I toss it, suck up the sigh, and
buy a new one.
Mike R.
>From: "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RE: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:05:10 +1000
>
>
>
>G'Day Mike,
>
>I always discharge my Makita batteries from my drills by putting them in
>the
>Makita torch I have. I've got one battery that's nearly 8 years old now
>and
>still going strong, in fact the drill it came with is nearing the end of
>its
>life with a faulty switch - too many rivet holes :-)
>
>Cheers
>
>John Morrissey
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 5:23 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>
>
>Shoot, I have the same thing on my new Makita battery. I have been
>sursing
>
>out spending so much for a battery and was about to throw it away. I'll
>give your idea a try and see if it works. With my luck on these things
>though I will probably still have to get a new battery.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>"Arlington Bound" in the other RV
>
>
> >From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "RV List"
> >Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
> >Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:30:55 -0500
> >
> >
> >My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
> >because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
> >cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power.
>I'd
> >forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
> >charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
> >
> >The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
> >aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
> >unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I
> >rigged
> >up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like
> >the
> >old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
> >over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to
> >hold
> >it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
> >drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
> >it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
> >out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an
> >hour...
> >got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
> >normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
> >indicator indicates a full charge...
> >
> >FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
> >
> >Johnny Johnson
> >49MM -3 flying
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CW9371(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003819482@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
28 Jun 2000 17:16:42.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: A Rocket in my future |
Thanks
Andy
RV-6A N-5060 (flying, but need more PoWer)
>>
I will try to answer your questions as honestly as possible. But you will
need to keep in mind I have a close relationship to Team Rocket Aircraft as I
am now publishing the manuals and some other things for them. I am also the
owner of Kit # 000, which is the prototype.
First, Team's web site gives performance specs at 230 mph Vc @ 75%, 250
Vmax, and 3500 fpm climb at sea level with an IO-540. For those of you
already flying, are these numbers realistic? And, for the Harmon too?
I have not flown my rocket yet, but those numbers are very realistic. They
come directly from Mark Fredricks aircraft ( president of team rocket) which
is a quasi F1 harmon Rocket II hybrid. His plane also only has a 240 hp
engine. He basically says any and every F1 will meet those figures. If your
building is better then average or you use a bigger engine you will go
faster. Much faster. I am not sure about the harmon, but i would think
there very realistic also. There are rockets out there with 300 plus
horsepower motors that are cruising well over 250 mph
What is different about the Rockets that allow these speeds which are well
in excess of Van's Vne for the RV-4?
Heavier Skins, clipped wings with same number of ribs and other misc things.
I'm also wondering how sticking an extra 100+ lbs of steel on the front end
of an RV-4 effects CG, stall/spin, glide slope, etc...
Well, its not a RV4. I will start with the F1. Basically its not a RV4 its
longer and wider. There isnt a CG problem. Harmon rockets are similar but
they do start out with a RV fuselage so you have to be carefull on CG. In
talking to Ken Fowler who does areobatics at shows with his Harmon ROcket you
do have a CG concern. Especially if you have a 3 bladed prop. It must be
composite to keep the weight down
Can someone address the quality of Harmon's and Team's parts, plans, and
customer support.
I cant say anything about Harmons as i havent purchased anything from them.
However everything I have recieved from Team rocket was first rate. The
customer support is great. You have a problem you call Mark and he walks you
through it.
There has been a shortage of parts for team rocket, but thats working itslef
out. That comes with a new company and also wanting only the best parts,
alot of stuff has had to be sent back and redone since it wasnt good enough.
THe plans from team rocket. Well we wont say to many bad things about Mark.
Other then he should stick to designing and building aircraft and not
producing plans on the computer. The plans are not complete, basically since
they use pictures of an F1 to build show you what goes where and there isnt a
finished f1 yet. However since I have started working on the manuals for
Mark they are getting cleaned up. Also we will be adding updates to the
manuals so it will work just fine.
I have never build an aircraft before no have I build anything like this
before, but I am doing ok.
And to continue that firestorm, in regards to performance and engineering
quality, the inevitable "which is better" must be asked.
I have to say the F1. I am not saying that since there is anything wrong
with the Harmon Rocket. The reason I am saying it is that the F1 is one
aircraft. It was designed to be an f1. THe harmon rocket is an RV4 that is
modified with the rocket kit. Also I think the F1 is one of the most
complete kits on the market.
In regards to buying parts from Vans. If you buy an F1 you wont deal with
Vans at all. So it doenst matter. If you buy a harmon well you better be
nice to vans since its a RV4.
Both are great airplanes. I went with the F1 for the following reasons.
I am friends with Mark.
Mark offered me more advice then Harmons
I wanted a QB kit.
Also I think the F1 looks better.
Those are the reasons.
Take this for whats its worth, but you will not go wrong with either airplane.
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket Kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003820005@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
28 Jun 2000 17:39:34.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Footwell Scuff Plates |
Kyle,
You could rivet it through your carpet by putting another plate on the
bottom side of the carpet. The plate on the under side would give the rivets
something to hold on to. Pop rivets are an option, but they have the bulge
underneath that might interfer with something below them. Hope this helps.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | trim tab spar rivets |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm ready to rivet the trim tab skin to the spar and I think I need a new
yoke for my squeezer to set the rivets on the bottom of the spar - my 3"
yoke certainly won't do the job. For you folks that have done this, will an
Avery longeron yoke reach over the spar? I expect this yoke would be useful
elsewhere as I move further into this project. What say ye?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003820797@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
28 Jun 2000 18:13:12.-0700(at)matronics.com
> H'mmmmmmmm
> Lycoming cranks cant take it? Care to elaborate on that one?
> Tom McIntyre
> RV3 978TM
Uh oh, ;-) I hope I haven't started something. I'll try to keep this brief
'cause I'm sure several others are tired hearing me knock the Lycoming/tout
the rotary. The basis for my statement is as follows:
In the 3 years I have been following this list and researching my own engine
conversion there have been too many to count tirades about excessive AD's on
crankshafts. Search the archives, you'll find plenty. I remember hearing a
story about an owner who had to fork out a couple grand to AD his crank shaft
on a brand new engine before it ever ran. A good friend of mine snapped the
crank on his Cont. TSIO550 on the first flight of his Lancair IV-P. I think
it is generally accepted that the crankshaft is really the heart of a
certified engine - and they just aren't that strong. If they were strong
(read: overbuilt), expensive AD's wouldn't be necessary because minor flaws
could easily be tolerated. The crankshaft really limits the max hp you can
hope to get out of a Lyc. (Endurance h.p. is probably limited by the exhaust
valves - and that is a different story). IMHO, you would have to be nuts to
turbo boost (ie. go beyond turbo-normalize) or otherwise significantly
soup-up an O-360 and still use the stock crankshaft, it just cant take it!
The few guys who have tinkered with their 360's have very short TBO's for
just that reason.
In contrast (and I'm sorry, I really didn't want to make this another root
for the rotary session), the car racers regularly boost up their 13B engines
to 650hp with STOCK e-shafts. Sure, like any race engine they sometimes self
destruct at that power. An apex seal blows (cutting hp in half), or maybe
they detonate and rip the engine apart and limp on back in, or the tranny
snaps, etc... but the e-shafts never fail! Anyone care to guess how long a
stock O-360 crankshaft would last if it were asked to put out 650hp? I don't
know either, but I wouldn't want to be anywhere nearby if you tried it.
Dave Leonard
RV-6, Canopy
N4VY reserved
Turbo Mazda 13B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003820720@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
28 Jun 2000 18:09:34.-0700(at)matronics.com
>
> 250 hp is in the 75% cruise range for me and a lot of the Rocket (either
> one) guys.
>
> Boyd
> RV S6
Boyd, sure the Super 6 and the Rockets are clearly exceptions. Both have
structural mods to allow a faster VNE. So, you (lucky) guys can use that
much h.p. But I was commenting on a question about putting a gas-trubine in
a standard RV-8, which just cant use 250hp in cruse without exceeding VNE.
BTW Boyd, any chance you are going to Oshkosh this year? Sure would like to
meet you and maybe get a ride in your super 6. :-)
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: locating R-803 |
Hokay, I give up...I don't see a dimension anywhere on any drawing that shows where/how
to locate the R-803 on the top of the rudder spar. Can anyone help me?
John Lawson
Scratching his head again over those RV-6 drawings...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A Canopy Bo-Bo |
I finally did the biggest mistake so far on my std. kit -8A. After 950 hours
I started the canopy with lots of caution, probably cutting the plexi at
least 20 times to get the right fit on the steel canopy frame. Then came the
time to pop rivet the plexi to the steel, 3 times on each side prior to
fitting the skirt. On the third pop rivet it cracked upwards about an inch
using the hand set. It ran fast upwards, but I was able to stop drill w/ No.
40. Now the crack, happened twice, several inches apart, is about an inch
and half from the center of the drilled hole. I can probably trim the skirt
down and still hide the cracks from the outside, but I'll be high with the
skirt. Most of the 8"s I've seen trim the skirt about an inch high from the
center of the hole. What wisdom have others before me have for advise ??
Leave the skirt high and cover the insides w/ a decal X2 ??
What caused this crack after all was I was not at exact 90 Deg drilling to
the frame.. That's for certain, now comes the challenge to hide these two
cracks.
BTW.. The skirt fits like a glove, no need to cut it in half, minimal
trimming, maybe 10 hours and it's done.
Any Suggestions ??
Thanks,
Doug Gardner 80717
Palm Harbor Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003824024@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
28 Jun 2000 20:40:37.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Question re: locating R-803 |
In a message dated 6/28/00 8:47:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
jwlawson(at)hargray.com writes:
<< .I don't see a dimension anywhere on any drawing that shows where/how to
locate the R-803 on the top of the rudder spar. >>
From the front edge of the R-803 to the back edge of the rudder spar is 8
1/16"
Shown on drawing 7PP (top left). According the revision box on my drawings,
they just added this dimension as of my plans dated 01/06/00.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Footwell Scuff Plates |
I have the scuff plates offered by Cleaveland Aircraft & Tool supply,,,
If I remember correctly, they are mounted to the carpet with some
very short, solid flush rivets using a backing washer on the bottom
side. What I did to protect the floor was first, "over-set" the rivet
so it was as small as possible, then I used velcro strips,
strategically placed on the back side of the carpet covering the shop
heads of the rivets, with the matching velcro attached to the floor
boards. The carpet I used was standard, aircraft-grade "FAA-approved"
that had a rubberized backing which allowed the velcro to stick very
nicely.
>
>
>Lots of certified aircraft have scuff plates over the carpet for the pilot
>and front seat passenger to rest their heels on while working the rudder
>pedals/brakes. I can't figure out how these are mechanically attached to the
>carpet without digging into the structure below the carpet.
>
>Anyone got experience with this?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kyle Boatright
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4 N184DA
n184da(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Odyssey Batteries |
I just bought an Odyssey battery for my O-360 RV-8, but not the one Van's
sells. He sells the PC680, and I bought the PC625 for $100 from Batteries
Plus. The PC680 goes in motorcycles, and the PC625 goes in watercraft. The
salesman assured me (if you can believe these guys) that the 625 is almost
identical to the 680. It has the same Ah rating, one minute less reserve
capacity, and a CA (something to do with cranking ability) of 350A vs 360A
for the 680. The dimensions are almost the same as the 680, and it is 1.5
lbs lighter. There is an excellant web site describing all the Odyssey
batteries and their specs on www.hepi.com/odyssey.htm. Won't know how it
performs for eight months or so.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 empennage fairing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003825436@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
28 Jun 2000 21:56:05.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: EXP-2V load center |
In a message dated 6/28/00 1:39:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Does anyone have any experience with the EXP-2V load center? Vans has
it in the catalog and their website was intriguing. It's a board that
provides circuit & overvoltage protection neatly integrated with toggle
switches. It looks like it would make wiring up the airplane a
comparative snap. Comments? >>
Check the archives for EXP-Bus.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0003825311@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
28 Jun 2000 21:46:57.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Source for Drill Bushings? |
In a message dated 6/28/00 12:57:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< This is probably a dumb question and I searched the archives
but drew a blank. Where do you guys get your drill bushings for jobs like
drilling the engine mount to the firewall? >>
Harry-
Just use some scrap steel tubing as a bushing to drill to the inside dia.
Remove the tubing and then chase the hole with a drill size just under the
final diameter. Ream to final size.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Footwell Scuff Plates |
Contact cement
KBoatri144(at)aol.com on 06/28/2000 06:28:42 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Footwell Scuff Plates
Lots of certified aircraft have scuff plates over the carpet for the pilot
and front seat passenger to rest their heels on while working the rudder
pedals/brakes. I can't figure out how these are mechanically attached to the
carpet without digging into the structure below the carpet.
Anyone got experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP-2V load center |
Allot has changed in the product since the archive conversations. I would
call the company and ask for builders names and phone numbers that have used
the system and ask them. I have worked on three other projects with guys
that used the Exp-2, the last one a tray version with rockers. It not only
saved time and made a neat install but gave some neat features that would
have been troublesome to do otherwise. And if you want a neat gadget look
at their Anywhere Map GPS product. Beats a Garmin 295 for less money.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
In countersinking - I used the "free" countersinking depth guage that came
with my Avery Vise-Grip dimpling pliers matching the size hole in question.
I started with a block of fine grained wood to get an approx depth then went
to the thicker alum. I went deep enough so that the "guage" wouldn't
wobble, but not so deep that the "guage" would float around in the hole.
Don't know how better to explain it...try it on a piece of wood - then some
scrap alum.
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR going to Roadway on Sat for two BIG crates!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
>
> Hola,
>
> When attaching a thin piece of aluminum to a think piece using a
> flush
> rivet, the thin piece is dimpled and the thick piece is countersunk.
> My question is: How deeply should the thick piece be countersunk?
Use a piece of scrap aluminum, say, 1"x3" and make yourself a gauge by
drilling a #30 hole on one end, a #40 hole on the other. Dimple them.
Counter sink the thicker piece until the dimpled gauge sets on the
thicker flush. That is, after all, the point of countersinking the
underlaying piece.
It will help to bend the gauge at the center so each side can lay flat.
When the rivet is set the dimple will be pulled in to conform. The
joint will be strong. The airplane will not fall from the sky and you
will be fine.
IOW, you're doing it right. Carry on.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Hola,
>
>When attaching a thin piece of aluminum to a think piece using a flush
>rivet, the thin piece is dimpled and the thick piece is countersunk.
>My question is: How deeply should the thick piece be countersunk?
>
>In a brilliant display of ignorance I kept countersinking until the thin
>piece laid flush with the thick piece. The dimple angle is different than
>the countersunk angle, however,
Steve,
In this situation I found it was helpful to have a small test piece of
the thin material. Drill a hole in the test piece and dimple it. Now
machine countersink until the test piece fits flush.
It sounds kind of like you did that with the actual pieces though and it
did not work. Why is the dimple angle different than the countersink
angle? I think they should be the same.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Engine baffles-front bulkheads |
Recently Someone asked for ideas on fitting of the front bulkheads (parts 1
and 11) of Van's engine baffle kit. I lost the message and do not remember
who asked but here is something that helped me establish a fixed starting
point for fitting all the pieces.
1. Fit and temporarily pop rivet parts 1 and 11 together per plans.
2. Make a 1" x 2" flat piece from scrap .063 aluminum. Drill 1/4" hole in one
end and mount it vertically with the engine bolt at (E) on the plans. This
is where part 12 will later be fitted and mounted after all the other
fabrication and fitting has been completed.
3. Clamp part 12 to the temporary vertical piece at position (E) and to the
joined parts 1 and 11 much like it will later be permanently mounted.
4. Mark the part 12 position on to part 1/11 so that you can always
reposition it the same as you cut and fit part 1/11 and the angles to fit the
part 2 & 10 baffle floors.
5. When you have it all fitted and riveted together remove the temporary part
at (E) and mount part 12 permanently to the bulkheads and to the engine.
Hope my words say what I mean.......!
Dale Ensing
6A Cary Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RVer's to Can. Warplane Museum Tommorrow |
Beware, Flapjack Squadron out of Oswego NY will invade Canadian shores, Friday
6/30/00 at noonish to the Canadian Warplane Museum, Hamilton Airport.
We plan to taxi right up the ramp to the back enterance of the museum.
Any RVer's care to meet us feel free.
Currently 2 planes, with 2 more thinking about it.
Now caution! Both of us are painted in USAF Military colors and markings. Our
standing orders will be "do not to fire... until fired upon". But if you lock
us up...well my as for my RIO, it's her first trip and I think she's got a itchy
finger!!! FOX 1.......Can you say international incident??? : )
Flapjack2
AKA N58DM
David McManmon
Flapjack1
AKA N30JB
John Balbierer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
This is probably way off base but are you sure you aren't using a screw C/S
dimple or a mixed variation thereof ? I have a box-o-dimples & cutters
wherein lie my screw, rivet C/S dimple dies, boys & girls ( mail & females), and
screw & rivet cutters & pilots. When a few months go by I look inside the box &
it takes me a few moments to figure things out. God help me if I ever dropped
the box or if my 4 year old neice finds it......
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net on 06/29/2000 01:04:56 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top
>
>
>Hola,
>
>When attaching a thin piece of aluminum to a think piece using a flush
>rivet, the thin piece is dimpled and the thick piece is countersunk.
>My question is: How deeply should the thick piece be countersunk?
>
>In a brilliant display of ignorance I kept countersinking until the thin
>piece laid flush with the thick piece. The dimple angle is different than
>the countersunk angle, however,
Steve,
In this situation I found it was helpful to have a small test piece of
the thin material. Drill a hole in the test piece and dimple it. Now
machine countersink until the test piece fits flush.
It sounds kind of like you did that with the actual pieces though and it
did not work. Why is the dimple angle different than the countersink
angle? I think they should be the same.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Footwell Scuff Plates |
Kyle--
I pre-positioned some 4x6" SSteel plates below the rudders and attached
them with 3
strips of good quality double-sided tape, to see if my heels really
stayed where I thought they would. The tape held so well, I kept it
on. After 100 hrs. they are still
attached quite firmly.
Boyd
>
>
> Lots of certified aircraft have scuff plates over the carpet for the pilot
> and front seat passenger to rest their heels on while working the rudder
> pedals/brakes. I can't figure out how these are mechanically attached to the
> carpet without digging into the structure below the carpet.
>
> Anyone got experience with this?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Engine baffles-front bulkheads |
This is pretty much the way I did it, except that I used duct tape to hold
the pieces together. This is not the easiest part to fit! Also I fit the
cowl and baffles, then went back to the cowl and expoxied on the inlet
baffles. No surprise, but that called for a lot of trimming of those
baffles.
Now I have to ask, how did you builders cut and fit the flexible seals to
fit around that curved inlet? Especially at that upright baffle behind the
spinner and prop? I can't see a really good way to do it.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
head scratching time again
-----Original Message-----
Recently Someone asked for ideas on fitting of the front bulkheads (parts 1
and 11) of Van's engine baffle kit. I lost the message and do not remember
who asked but here is something that helped me establish a fixed starting
point for fitting all the pieces.
1. Fit and temporarily pop rivet parts 1 and 11 together per plans.
2. Make a 1" x 2" flat piece from scrap .063 aluminum. Drill 1/4" hole in
one
end and mount it vertically with the engine bolt at (E) on the plans. This
is where part 12 will later be fitted and mounted after all the other
fabrication and fitting has been completed.
3. Clamp part 12 to the temporary vertical piece at position (E) and to the
joined parts 1 and 11 much like it will later be permanently mounted.
4. Mark the part 12 position on to part 1/11 so that you can always
reposition it the same as you cut and fit part 1/11 and the angles to fit
the
part 2 & 10 baffle floors.
5. When you have it all fitted and riveted together remove the temporary
part
at (E) and mount part 12 permanently to the bulkheads and to the engine.
Hope my words say what I mean.......!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons |
Hope I'm not opening up yet another can of worms but here goes...
With all the discussion lately regarding Brian's touch with death regarding
sealing fuel connections with high temp RTV and the poo pooing of Teflon tape
anywhere near a fuel joint. What is the best way to seal all those AN fuel line
fittings? Some say don't use anything. A good flair and a good torque is
enough. Others use stuff like Seallube and other products that are on back
order till Christmas by ACS ( I had a some on order for three months until I
finally gave up.).
I'm currently putting everything together with liquid Teflon, but I'm lead to
believe that this too may be a mistake.
Thx for the help,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finish and more finish )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons |
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
> ... What is the best way to seal all those AN fuel line
> fittings? Some say don't use anything. A good flair and a good torque is
> enough.
Jim,
Correct. Don't use anything. A flare fitting is designed to seal all on its own.
If you are having to use sealant, your flare is dirty, cracked, or otherwise
flawed. Flare fittings will seal at more than 5000 psi. Save the sealant for
tapered pipe threads, although the fuel system operates at a relatively low pressure
and you probably won't need it if the threads are in good shape.
Chris Browne
-6a finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A Canopy Bo-Bo |
>From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8A Canopy Bo-Bo
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 18:31:27 -0700
>
>
>
>
>I finally did the biggest mistake so far on my std. kit -8A. After 950
>hours
>I started the canopy with lots of caution, probably cutting the plexi at
>least 20 times to get the right fit on the steel canopy frame. Then came
>the
>time to pop rivet the plexi to the steel, 3 times on each side prior to
>fitting the skirt. On the third pop rivet it cracked upwards about an inch
>using the hand set. It ran fast upwards, but I was able to stop drill w/
>No.
>40. Now the crack, happened twice, several inches apart, is about an inch
>and half from the center of the drilled hole. I can probably trim the skirt
>down and still hide the cracks from the outside, but I'll be high with the
>skirt. Most of the 8"s I've seen trim the skirt about an inch high from the
>center of the hole. What wisdom have others before me have for advise ??
>Leave the skirt high and cover the insides w/ a decal X2 ??
>
>What caused this crack after all was I was not at exact 90 Deg drilling to
>the frame.. That's for certain, now comes the challenge to hide these two
>cracks.
>BTW.. The skirt fits like a glove, no need to cut it in half, minimal
>trimming, maybe 10 hours and it's done.
>
>Any Suggestions ??
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Gardner 80717
Doug,
Bummer about the cracks. I guess you have to pay for that perfect canopy
skirt fit somehow, eh? ;) Leave the skirt flange as high as you want to
help hide the cracks. It's purely a cosmetic thing so just do what is
acceptable to you. A couple of strategically placed decals would also help,
but might be more obvious than just not bothering with them at all. Once
you get the whole thing together and ready to fly, those cracks will seem
pretty insignificant. As long as you have stopped the progression of the
cracks via stopdrilling, you've done all that can be done.
Chin up, keep the faith and press on.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
105 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons |
>
>
>Hope I'm not opening up yet another can of worms but here goes...
>
>With all the discussion lately regarding Brian's touch with death regarding
>sealing fuel connections with high temp RTV and the poo pooing of Teflon
>tape
>anywhere near a fuel joint. What is the best way to seal all those AN fuel
>line
>fittings? Some say don't use anything. A good flair and a good torque is
>enough. Others use stuff like Seallube and other products that are on back
>order till Christmas by ACS ( I had a some on order for three months until
>I
>finally gave up.).
>
>I'm currently putting everything together with liquid Teflon, but I'm lead
>to
>believe that this too may be a mistake.
>
>Thx for the help,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8AQ ( finish and more finish )
>N89JA ( reserved )
Jim,
Negatory on the liquid teflon...RTV...teflon tape, or anything except for
sealube or fuelube. The AN flare type fitting must be dry, metal on metal
connections. They will seal just fine. The pipe fittings are the tricky
part in the system. The old timer A&P that helped me clean out my
carburetor after my "touch with death", (wasn't THAT bad really) suggested
to not put anything on the pipe fittings at the carb..just leave them dry
and they will seal. Well, that's what we did and I have had no problems at
all since then. The only thing I would consider for use now on a pipe
connection is fuelube, which is really neat stuff. I have a full can of it
and can send you some in a film cannister if you give me your snail mail
address.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
105 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Sealing Firewall |
What are you guys using to seal firewall penetrations; I am using rubber
gromets and SS shields, but when several wires are using the same hole there
is still an air gap. Would high temp RTV dissolve the wire insulation?
Thinking of proseal, but it would then be a mother to change or replace.
warren moore
rv-4, bolting on engine next week!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Winters <dwinters(at)acraline.com> |
| Subject: | NiCad battery resurrection |
Yeah Bob, you're right, the nicad cycling equipment for RC'ers these days is
fairly sophisticated.
I discharge my nicads with a lamp (or several in series) that will result in
a voltage drop that corresponds to the rating on the battery. You could use
large resistors to do the same thing, but the lamp will let you know when
the battery is discharged.
For a 12 volt battery, you should set the resistance up for 10 or so volts.
That way the lamp will go out (and the current quits flowing) before you
reverse any of the cells in the batttery....
Don Winters
-----Original Message-----
From: Japundza, Bob [mailto:bjapundza(at)dowagro.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
Back in the days of my youth I used to race nicad-powered radio-controlled
offroad cars, and there were battery cyclers that would automatically bring
the battery up to full charge, by discharging and recharging the battery
until it was at its full potential. I imagine they are still available and
probably much better and cheaper nowadays...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Firewall |
Warren--
The red, high temp RTV will work most excellently.
Boyd
RV-S6
>
>
> What are you guys using to seal firewall penetrations; I am using rubber
> gromets and SS shields, but when several wires are using the same hole there
> is still an air gap. Would high temp RTV dissolve the wire insulation?
> Thinking of proseal, but it would then be a mother to change or replace.
>
> warren moore
> rv-4, bolting on engine next week!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine baffles-front bulkheads-6 |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
That was me. I am trying to define the 2 & 10 assy to the sides. Then I
can start on the nose section. I rived 1 & 11 together last nite. I can
not drill both holes in 12 until everthing fits. You idea is good. I
think I will make a "temp" 12 bracket & clamp to another bracket to the
engine hole. that way I can move everthing down as I fit. The two temp
rivets I put in last nite defines the width to the ring gear & I can see
the f1A & B brackets are going to define the aft distance to the nose
wall. Thanks for your help. I have been 90% done for a year now but don't
seem to move much.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> Recently Someone asked for ideas on fitting of the front bulkheads
> (parts 1 and 11) of Van's engine baffle kit. I lost the message and do
not
> remember who asked but here is something that helped me establish a
fixed
> starting point for fitting all the pieces.
>
> 1. Fit and temporarily pop rivet parts 1 and 11 together per plans.
> 2. Make a 1" x 2" flat piece from scrap .063 aluminum. Drill 1/4"
> hole in one end and mount it vertically with the engine bolt at (E) on
the
> plans. This is where part 12 will later be fitted and mounted after
all the
> other fabrication and fitting has been completed.
> 3. Clamp part 12 to the temporary vertical piece at position (E) and
> to the joined parts 1 and 11 much like it will later be permanently
> mounted.
> 4. Mark the part 12 position on to part 1/11 so that you can always
> reposition it the same as you cut and fit part 1/11 and the angles
> to fit the part 2 & 10 baffle floors.
> 5. When you have it all fitted and riveted together remove the
> temporary part at (E) and mount part 12 permanently to the bulkheads
and to the
> engine.
> Hope my words say what I mean.......!
> Dale Ensing
> 6A Cary Illinois
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
>
>Hola,
>
>When attaching a thin piece of aluminum to a think piece using a flush
>rivet, the thin piece is dimpled and the thick piece is countersunk.
>My question is: How deeply should the thick piece be countersunk?
>
>In a brilliant display of ignorance I kept countersinking until the thin
>piece laid flush with the thick piece. The dimple angle is different than
>the countersunk angle, however, so the dimple does not fill in the hole
>and there is considerable space left over and the joint will not be strong
>and will fail and ohmigosh the plane will fall out of the sky and land on
>a school full of kids and nuns and small furry animals and I'll go to hell
>and an FAA inspector will be there and ohmigoshohmigoshohmigosh.
>
>But I digress.
>
>How deep should the countersunk hole be?
>
>-Steve
>
>
What do you mean the dimple angle is different than the countersink
angle? They should both be 100 degrees, the same as the rivets we
use. Some other applications use different angles (82, 120, etc), so
we need to be sure to buy 100 degree stuff.
If you've got the right angle dimple dies and countersink cutter, the
tips other people mentioned will work fine.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
I went through this myself- the initial advice I had been given was to
countersink so that a flush rivet placed in the hole in the countersunk
material would sit just flush with the surface. Another way to say this
would be to countersink as if the thin dimpled material wasn't there.
When you do this, it looks like the countersink is too small to hold the
dimple in the thin material; it makes it appear as if there will be a big
space between the parts. So I ran a test, using (what else) some of my old
HS-810s and HS-814s, where I tried different depths of countersinking. I
then hacksawed through the center of the rivet joint to see what had
happened. I found that if I countersunk big enough for the dimple to fit in
the countersink, the joint looked sloppy and loose after riveting. Well, it
looked perfect from the outside, but when you saw the cross-section it was
obvious that the two parts had a big gap between them in the rivet hole
where you couldn't see it. The best-looking joint was made with the
countersink the same size as the rivet head, just like I had been told, or
to maybe go a max of .005 deeper.
I should hedge this by saying this was with my dimple dies, yours may be
different.
I really wish I had saved pictures of the cross-sections, it was a pretty
interesting lesson. I would encourage you to do the same thing and post the
results- then you'd know for sure.
- Matthew "100% serious this time" Gelber
>How deep should the countersunk hole be?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Firewall |
The red high temp RTV has NOT proved satisfactory in my case.
I used it to seal my thru firewall cables and after a few hundred
hours it got gummy. It does not seem to be aviation fuel and
oil resistant. Seems to me an RV guy with a web-site used it
in his carbureator and had a problem also. I've used non
hardening gasket sealent with excellent results but it looks
like hell.
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM 1530 hrs
InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116 wrote:
>
> Warren--
>
> The red, high temp RTV will work most excellently.
>
> Boyd
> RV-S6
> >
> >
> > What are you guys using to seal firewall penetrations; I am using rubber
> > gromets and SS shields, but when several wires are using the same hole there
> > is still an air gap. Would high temp RTV dissolve the wire insulation?
> > Thinking of proseal, but it would then be a mother to change or replace.
> >
> > warren moore
> > rv-4, bolting on engine next week!
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons |
How 'bout fule lube?
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings/fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 3:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons
Hope I'm not opening up yet another can of worms but here goes...
With all the discussion lately regarding Brian's touch with death regarding
sealing fuel connections with high temp RTV and the poo pooing of Teflon
tape
anywhere near a fuel joint. What is the best way to seal all those AN fuel
line
fittings? Some say don't use anything. A good flair and a good torque is
enough. Others use stuff like Seallube and other products that are on back
order till Christmas by ACS ( I had a some on order for three months until I
finally gave up.).
I'm currently putting everything together with liquid Teflon, but I'm lead
to
believe that this too may be a mistake.
Thx for the help,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finish and more finish )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons |
Are cone washers approved for this type of application?
George Stanley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Can someone tell me how to clinch Band-It Jr. clamps? These are the clamps
for firesleeve, and I can't pull the loose end to save me.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Band-It Clamps |
I have a tool to do this. As a matter of fact I think I still have several,
new, in the box. If anyone would like one, I'd like $20 for one. I'll check
on the weight and cost for shipping, and we can decide on a fair total cost...
Dave Burton
Seattle
RV6
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> Can someone tell me how to clinch Band-It Jr. clamps? These are the clamps
> for firesleeve, and I can't pull the loose end to save me.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - $7.99/mo! ------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Shootout |
As summer temps have been climbing so have my oil temps. Last Saturday
my wife and I stayed late at the EAA Regional in Longmont, CO to take
advantage of the cooler evening temps for the flight home. OAT was 83F
and oil temps climbed to 245-250 in a real hurry. Not good.
A little background on the engine/cooler installation. I am running a
O-360-A1A with "H" pistons and a modified cam profile assembled by Bart
Lalonde of AeroSport Power. I have a aluminum plenum cover and the oil
cooler is mounted directly to the baffles behind #4 cylinder. A cockpit
adjustable door is mounted on the oil cooler for cold weather flying.
I discussed my problem with my hangar mates and we came up with a couple
of simple fixes/test that might improve the cooling performance of my
oil cooler. Remove the oil cooler door as is might be restricting the
cooling air exit. Remount the oil cooler away from the baffles/cylinder
head creating a small plenum before the cooler. Throw the oil cooler
and temp gauge away and not worry about it. Try a different oil cooler.
My choice was to remount the cooler but this required new hoses as the
cooler needed to be flipped so the fittings would clear the engine
mount. I had built the baffle standoff box for the cooler before I
realised I would need new hoses for it to work. To much time and I want
to fly. So next item on the list.
Replace the oil cooler. I begged my hangar mate into loaning/selling his
oil cooler an installed it in the same place as the old cooler. The
coolers are the exact same size with mounting holes and inlet/outlet
ports in the same place so the swap was easy. The cockpit adjustable
door was not installed.
So now the big test. I fly, but the OAT is only 73 degrees. Oil
temperatures are lower than I have seen in a long time so I feel good
even though I know it is cool out. Today the OAT was 91 degrees when I
took off. I headed east to get out from under Denver's Class B and then
started a climb at 110 mph IAS from 6500' to 13500' . Temps climbed but
never got over about 225. On the way back and down temps dropped fast,
fast enough that I could see the needle move. This never happened with
the old cooler. I leveled out at 7500' 30 miles out and ran full bore
home to see what the temp would do. OAT was 89F and temps stayed around
210F.
What I proved today was that I could climb rather slow and steep and
maintain resonable oil temps on a warm day. I can make it to Oshkosh.
Cylinder head temps have never been a problem.
So what type cooler did I have and what did I change to?
My original cooler was a Positech #4211 bought from Van's Aircraft. The
new cooler is a Niagra (Stewart Warner Style) also sold by Van's
Aircraft. The two coolers have the same cooling area of 3.3x5.6" with
the Positech having more rows than the Niagra. The Positech is built
like a tank and weighs 1.25 lb more than the Niagra. The Positech looks
to be the better of the two oil coolers
In my simple test the Niagra out cools the Positech by a bunch. By no
means is this a scientific test and I am not bashing Positech. The
Positech cooler is well made but sized slightly small for the 0-360. The
next larger cooler in Van's catalogue would have been a better choice
for my O-360. The Positech 4211 would probably work well on O320
powered machines.
I would be interested in hearing from other Positech users and what
experiences you may have
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Garrett" <garrett(at)thesocket.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator spar spacing |
I was just looking through the archives on a question I had about the
stiffener spacing from the spars. The plans show the typical 1/8" spacing
between the forward spar (E-602) and stiffeners. Is this also applied to the
spacing between the stiffener and the trim spar (E-606)?
I hope I'm making sense.
Thanks,
Matt Garrett
RV-6
Fresno, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Firewall |
Drywall supply houses sell fire rated caulking compound that works
well. It's original intent is to seal gaps in building fire walls made
from gypsum sheet rock. - Bob
From: MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM
> What are you guys using to seal firewall penetrations; I am using
> rubber gromets and SS shields, but when several wires are using the
> same hole there is still an air gap.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator spar spacing |
Matt, I am at the same point of building as you are. I am going to go ahead
and give it an 1/8 th. I would think that if it were different it would be in
the plans. I also think that the point is give your stiffs a little space
instead of butting against spar. bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Shootout |
Besides changing the oil cooler, you also removed that door. Perhaps that
is the reason for the drop, not the cooler?
Bill
not even close to choosing a cooler yet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 9:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Shootout
>
> As summer temps have been climbing so have my oil temps. Last Saturday
> my wife and I stayed late at the EAA Regional in Longmont, CO to take
> advantage of the cooler evening temps for the flight home. OAT was 83F
> and oil temps climbed to 245-250 in a real hurry. Not good.
>
> A little background on the engine/cooler installation. I am running a
> O-360-A1A with "H" pistons and a modified cam profile assembled by Bart
> Lalonde of AeroSport Power. I have a aluminum plenum cover and the oil
> cooler is mounted directly to the baffles behind #4 cylinder. A cockpit
> adjustable door is mounted on the oil cooler for cold weather flying.
>
> I discussed my problem with my hangar mates and we came up with a couple
> of simple fixes/test that might improve the cooling performance of my
> oil cooler. Remove the oil cooler door as is might be restricting the
> cooling air exit. Remount the oil cooler away from the baffles/cylinder
> head creating a small plenum before the cooler. Throw the oil cooler
> and temp gauge away and not worry about it. Try a different oil cooler.
>
> My choice was to remount the cooler but this required new hoses as the
> cooler needed to be flipped so the fittings would clear the engine
> mount. I had built the baffle standoff box for the cooler before I
> realised I would need new hoses for it to work. To much time and I want
> to fly. So next item on the list.
>
> Replace the oil cooler. I begged my hangar mate into loaning/selling his
> oil cooler an installed it in the same place as the old cooler. The
> coolers are the exact same size with mounting holes and inlet/outlet
> ports in the same place so the swap was easy. The cockpit adjustable
> door was not installed.
>
> So now the big test. I fly, but the OAT is only 73 degrees. Oil
> temperatures are lower than I have seen in a long time so I feel good
> even though I know it is cool out. Today the OAT was 91 degrees when I
> took off. I headed east to get out from under Denver's Class B and then
> started a climb at 110 mph IAS from 6500' to 13500' . Temps climbed but
> never got over about 225. On the way back and down temps dropped fast,
> fast enough that I could see the needle move. This never happened with
> the old cooler. I leveled out at 7500' 30 miles out and ran full bore
> home to see what the temp would do. OAT was 89F and temps stayed around
> 210F.
>
> What I proved today was that I could climb rather slow and steep and
> maintain resonable oil temps on a warm day. I can make it to Oshkosh.
> Cylinder head temps have never been a problem.
>
> So what type cooler did I have and what did I change to?
>
> My original cooler was a Positech #4211 bought from Van's Aircraft. The
> new cooler is a Niagra (Stewart Warner Style) also sold by Van's
> Aircraft. The two coolers have the same cooling area of 3.3x5.6" with
> the Positech having more rows than the Niagra. The Positech is built
> like a tank and weighs 1.25 lb more than the Niagra. The Positech looks
> to be the better of the two oil coolers
>
> In my simple test the Niagra out cools the Positech by a bunch. By no
> means is this a scientific test and I am not bashing Positech. The
> Positech cooler is well made but sized slightly small for the 0-360. The
> next larger cooler in Van's catalogue would have been a better choice
> for my O-360. The Positech 4211 would probably work well on O320
> powered machines.
>
> I would be interested in hearing from other Positech users and what
> experiences you may have
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A N99PZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator spar spacing |
Matt,
I made that assumption and built mine that way.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/elevator.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Garrett" <garrett(at)thesocket.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 10:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator spar spacing
>
> I was just looking through the archives on a question I had about the
> stiffener spacing from the spars. The plans show the typical 1/8" spacing
> between the forward spar (E-602) and stiffeners. Is this also applied to
the
> spacing between the stiffener and the trim spar (E-606)?
>
> I hope I'm making sense.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt Garrett
> RV-6
> Fresno, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: EXP-2V load center |
In a message dated 6/29/2000 8:03:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
gyachts(at)kans.com writes:
> Allot has changed in the product since the archive conversations. I would
> call the company and ask for builders names and phone numbers that have
used
> the system and ask them. I have worked on three other projects with guys
> that used the Exp-2, the last one a tray version with rockers. It not only
> saved time and made a neat install but gave some neat features that would
> have been troublesome to do otherwise. And if you want a neat gadget look
> at their Anywhere Map GPS product. Beats a Garmin 295 for less money.
>
I have been looking at the EXP-2V for a while and would love to install it.
The problem is that max current is limited to 40A and that just won't be
enough with my all electric plane.
Dave Leonard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine baffles-front bulkheads-6 |
In a message dated 6/29/00 5:04:40 PM Central Daylight Time, dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
<< I will make a "temp" 12 bracket & clamp to another bracket to the
engine hole. that way I can move everything down as I fit. >>
Don,
You can use the supplied 12 bracket without drilling it if you use "C" clamps
or a Vise-Grip type clamp to hold it to the temporary piece bolted to the
engine and also to the part 1 and 11 you temporarily riveted together. This
way you can still move the part 12 location on the part 1/11.
Good luck
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall Planning |
How does one plan what's going to mount to the firewall? I'm ready to drill
all the angle and weldments to the firewall. I noticed in the Orndorff
video, as he shows off the firewall after it's been back-rivetted, that
there are several (maybe 10) holes that are still open. I can locate the
two used for the battery tray via the plans, but I don't see any other
clues. Is everyone else just drilling them out later, as needed? There was
some discussion in the archives about this, but.....
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings/fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | elevator oil caning |
guys, just finished first of the two elevators. i have IMHO a severe oil can
problem over about 50% of the elevator-specificly the larger or inboard half.
Is the common?
will it effect flight? or better yet will vibration or flutter cause to come
apart? thanx in advance, bob in arksans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Shootout |
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> Besides changing the oil cooler, you also removed that door. Perhaps that
> is the reason for the drop, not the cooler?
Very sharp, I wondered how many people would check me on that fact. If you
saw the door you would agree it plays no part in the cooling when open.
Another 6A on the field has this same niagra arangement with the door and
runs cool. I will reinstall the door this weekend and will update the post
when more data is collected
I also changed the oil and filter, fixed baffle cracks wiped the belly clean
and aired up my tires. Lots of changes, wonder which one helped the cooling?
Gary
>
>
> Bill
> not even close to choosing a cooler yet
>
> -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | lLooking for front Fan + |
It time to look for motor for 6-A. I have checked local sources and even a
yard in Texas but having a hard time finding a good used motor. Looking for
320 160hp 1600+ hrs, something to last 3-4 years than I can rebuild it . Any
one have a extra one just lying around.
Like one on the west coast if possible I live in central Oregon
Call Ken at 541-382-4644 collect if you can help
Thanks Ken 151RV Reserved
name="Ken Stribling.vcf"
filename="Ken Stribling.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Stribling;Ken
FN:Ken Stribling
ORG:Bend Battery
TITLE:Owner
NOTE:Batteries, Alternators, Starters, And exhaust
TEL;WORK;VOICE:(541) 382-4644
TEL;WORK;FAX:Same
ADR;WORK:;;63089 Sherman Rd. #4;Bend;Or.;97701;usa
#40D0ABend, Or. 977010D0Ausa
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:bbattery(at)teleport.com
REV:20000630T053342Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
"Ez List" ,
"Glasair List" ,
"Glastar List" ,
"Kitfox Lists" ,
"Kolb List (Matronics)" ,
"Lancair-List (Matronics)" ,
"Rocket List" ,
"RV List" ,
"Zenith List"
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Low cost tool for open barrel pins . . . |
I've been looking at several sources for a low cost tool
to install the open barrel (sheet metal pins) common to
the Whelen strobe kits, and available from Radio Shack
in blister-paked mating pairs.
I've decide on a tool to stock. You can see a preliminary
instruction sheet on its use at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
As soon as we have the OBC-1 in stock for shipment, we'll add
them to the website catalog index and drop a note to the
lists. In the mean time, if the instructions prompt
any questions for which answers are not obvious, let me
know. I'll be pleased to adjust the text and photos as necessary
to maximize understanding of the tool's utility for everyone.
BTW, this tool will also install the open barrel standard
d-sub pins. Been learning to use a new digital camera that
makes it MUCH easier to produce the illustrated instruction
sheets. Let me know what you think.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
> Thats the beauty of building "YOUR" own plane. Put things where YOU want
> and to hell with where others think it should be . A GOOD test pilot/
> instuctor should be able to handle it. Now go back to work.
Sure thats all true, but there's no reason not to go out and see how you
like flying both ways before making a decision. Seems like a lot of people
get all worked up about whether they'll have trouble flying the "other" way
(whichever way is opposite the way they learned that is) but have never
actually tried a plane with the opposite set-up... Truth is most people make
the transition very easily and may even perhaps like the "other" way better
once they've tried it.
I remember the first time I flew a Citabria, after learning how to fly in
Cessnas. I quite honestly never even thought about the fact that the
throttle was on the other side. Too many other new things to worry about
(like that little wheel in the back...!)Since then I've flown right
throttle/left yoke, left throttle/right stick, and left stick/right
throttle, often more than one in the same day, and it always seems "right"
in the plane I was flying. So try them out, and see what you want, THEN do
it the way you like it! Wouldn't hurt to go get some experience in different
types of planes anyway! :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
Made up my own exhaust hangar system from steel (did the fwall forward
before Larry came out with his hangar system) and it broke twice within 60
hrs. Replaced it with the Vetterman system which made it about 20 hrs before
one of the bent pieces broke where it's flattened out, as did one of the
adel clamps. Larry sent me replacements right away and that's been fine so
far, except that after another 20 hrs or so, bot the adel clamps broke! So
just last night I replaced them with some S/S versions I made up, same shape
and size as the adel clamps, and using the rubber off the adel clamps. Also
this time I didn't use needle-nose vice-grips to hold the adel clamps
together while bolting which could be part of the problem (nasty tooling
marks/stress risers). We'll see how long this one lasts. Meantime I'm
carrying plenty of replacement parts for this system in my onboard tool-kit!
Not blaming Larry or anything at this point, just reporting the facts. Which
are mainly that there's a lot of vibration at those exhaust pipes (no big
surprise there).
And no I don't have a high vibration engine. Just had my prop balanced and
it was only out 0.1 BEFORE they balanced it, my cowl doesn't show any signs
of high vibration (all hinge eyes still intact) and it feels real smooth.
May have to do with the fact that for various reasons the verticals on my
hangars aren't installed all that far forward/high as is recommended.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
I had the same question so I sacrificed some small scraps and an evening
an did some tests. I figured I was about to do 10,000 rivets so it was
worth a little investigation.
What I found was that the shape of the dimple is not precisely correct
to fit into the countersink. To have the dimple fit fulldepth required
much more metal to be removed than is really necessary.
The countersink does not need to be as deep as this. When the dimpled
sheet sits a little off the dimple, after setting the rivet the thin
sheet pulled snugly against the thicker piece. You'll need to gauge the
depth yourself, but it was only one or two thou more than for the 'flush
rivet' depth.
I'd suggest you try some tests then section the rivet (hacksaw and file
will do fine) and take a peek. You'd be surprised how well it all pulls
together.
I did the same with two dimpled pieces and also convinced myself that it
was unnecessary to put a deeper dimple (ie tank dies) in the underlying
sheet. Both dimples reformed during the rivet setting, the result when
sectioned looked very tight.
Note also that the better dimple dies rely on some reforming of the
dimples during riveting to achive the excellent surface flatness.
Now I am not saying it is wrong to dimple deeper or use tank dies, just
that I found it unnecessary...
Doug Gray
RV6 Wings...forever building wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trim tab spar rivets |
Yep, the longeron yoke will work.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Dickson <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 5:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: trim tab spar rivets
>
>
> I'm ready to rivet the trim tab skin to the spar and I think I need a new
> yoke for my squeezer to set the rivets on the bottom of the spar - my 3"
> yoke certainly won't do the job. For you folks that have done this, will
an
> Avery longeron yoke reach over the spar? I expect this yoke would be
useful
> elsewhere as I move further into this project. What say ye?
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Re: compressor soundproofing |
I have rebuilt many air compressors for the US Navy. One thing they all
have that really helps quiet them down is what they call a silencer on the
intake port. This can be easily constructed from sheet metal. It just
makes the air do two 180 turns on the way into the compressor so the noise
can't get back out.
George Armstrong,
Finishing Trim tab.
----- Original Message -----
From: James E. Clark <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: compressor soundproofing
>
> WARNING!!! I would reconsider a soundproofing box unles it was also
> fireproof.
>
> Some compressors **can** catch fire.
>
> Ask me how I know .... ;-)
>
> James
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Schrimmer" <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 2:03 PM
> Subject: RV-List: compressor soundproofing
>
>
> >
> > I have a Quincy compresor, which is relatively quiet, but I need to
> > make it even more quiet so I can work late at night. Has anybody
> > built a soundproof housing for their compressor? If so, what kind of
> > material did you use for soundproofing and how much space do you need
> > to leave around the compresssor to prevent overheating?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mark Schrimmer
> > RV-9A empennage
> > Irvine, CA
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Footwell Scuff Plates |
Lots of certified aircraft have scuff plates over the carpet for the pilot
and front seat passenger to rest their heels on while working the rudder
pedals/brakes. I can't figure out how these are mechanically attached to
the
carpet without digging into the structure below the carpet.
I purchased the scuff plates from either Avery or Cleveland. They attach
with rivets through the carpet. You put washers over the ends of the rivets
and then squeeze them. My capet has 3/8" padding on the back of it. I cut
the padding away in the area of the rivets. Once the rivets are squeezed,
they won't stick out from the padding. I didn't have a 2 foot yoke for my
squeezer so I back riveted them. I like the scuff plates. Now if I can
only find a way to keep the carpet from bunching up in the front of the
airplane.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Where in the world in MoeJoe? |
Has anyone seen or heard about Moe Colontonio? He was a very enthusiastic
contributor to this list about a year ago. I think he hasn't posted for
quite a while now. It he still in the game?
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle??? |
I agree completely. I went from cessna flying to the decathylon at 35 total
flight hours (instructed and logable anyway). It fealt a bit wierd with the
stick, but which hand it was in didn't seem to matter....where that little
wheel out back ended up is a completely different matter. I fell in love
with tail wheel aircraft right off the bat. Shortly thereafter (3 flight
hours) I was flying a Pilatus Porter (pt-6) from the left seat which meant
left hand stick, right hand throttle. Again, didn't seem to matter to
me.....especially considering the roller coaster like ride we were on while
I attempted to keep the plane on heading and in a consistant climb. Florida
bumpy day, and that plane goes in whatever direction the bump sends
it...unless you correct, and correct, and correct. Damn, I love
taildraggers.
Anyway, I really don't think anyone with more experience than I had at the
time (didn't have a licence yet) will have any trouble transitioning from
one hand to the other.....just get some dual.
Bill
-4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 1:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Left hand Stick, Right hand Throttle???
>
> > Thats the beauty of building "YOUR" own plane. Put things where YOU
want
> > and to hell with where others think it should be . A GOOD test pilot/
> > instuctor should be able to handle it. Now go back to work.
>
> Sure thats all true, but there's no reason not to go out and see how you
> like flying both ways before making a decision. Seems like a lot of people
> get all worked up about whether they'll have trouble flying the "other"
way
> (whichever way is opposite the way they learned that is) but have never
> actually tried a plane with the opposite set-up... Truth is most people
make
> the transition very easily and may even perhaps like the "other" way
better
> once they've tried it.
>
> I remember the first time I flew a Citabria, after learning how to fly in
> Cessnas. I quite honestly never even thought about the fact that the
> throttle was on the other side. Too many other new things to worry about
> (like that little wheel in the back...!)Since then I've flown right
> throttle/left yoke, left throttle/right stick, and left stick/right
> throttle, often more than one in the same day, and it always seems "right"
> in the plane I was flying. So try them out, and see what you want, THEN do
> it the way you like it! Wouldn't hurt to go get some experience in
different
> types of planes anyway! :-)
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Planning |
Hi Larry,
I'm just going to drill the rivets out.
-Jeff
Atlanta
RV-8 Fuselage
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 23:24:32 -0400
>
>How does one plan what's going to mount to the firewall? I'm ready to drill
>all the angle and weldments to the firewall. I noticed in the Orndorff
>video, as he shows off the firewall after it's been back-rivetted, that
>there are several (maybe 10) holes that are still open. I can locate the
>two used for the battery tray via the plans, but I don't see any other
>clues. Is everyone else just drilling them out later, as needed? There was
>some discussion in the archives about this, but.....
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 wings/fuse
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Where in the world in MoeJoe? |
Moe is involved in some other interests for now, and has slowed down on his
project for a while. He does plan to finish it, but not as quickly as he
originally hoped. I bought his engine and prop, and talked with him for a
couple of hours when I went to pick it up. He has a really nice quickbuild
kit, and I hope he can get back into it soon.
Keith O--Suffering post partem depression from my retirement account
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Where in the world in MoeJoe? |
He stopped by my hanger a month ago. He seems in fine spirits. I think this
project is on the back burner.... Lady friend moved in, new yellow corvette,
Harley needs to be ridden, summers here.......
Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com on 06/30/2000 08:28:01 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Where in the world in MoeJoe?
Has anyone seen or heard about Moe Colontonio? He was a very enthusiastic
contributor to this list about a year ago. I think he hasn't posted for
quite a while now. It he still in the game?
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lLooking for front Fan + |
Check out the mechanics (in person) at the small airports around your home
base.. Usually they have contacts on people ready to upgrade, swap ect.
bbattery(at)bendcable.com on 06/30/2000 01:33:42 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: lLooking for front Fan +
It time to look for motor for 6-A. I have checked local sources and even a
yard in Texas but having a hard time finding a good used motor. Looking for
320 160hp 1600+ hrs, something to last 3-4 years than I can rebuild it . Any
one have a extra one just lying around.
Like one on the west coast if possible I live in central Oregon
Call Ken at 541-382-4644 collect if you can help
Thanks Ken 151RV Reserved
name="Ken Stribling.vcf"
filename="Ken Stribling.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Stribling;Ken
FN:Ken Stribling
ORG:Bend Battery
TITLE:Owner
NOTE:Batteries, Alternators, Starters, And exhaust
TEL;WORK;VOICE:(541) 382-4644
TEL;WORK;FAX:Same
ADR;WORK:;;63089 Sherman Rd. #4;Bend;Or.;97701;usa
#40D0ABend, Or. 977010D0Ausa
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:bbattery(at)teleport.com
REV:20000630T053342Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Firewall |
The 3M product is called Fire Barrier 2000. ACS has it, but if you can
find a 3M Fire Protection Product outlet, you will save alot of money.
Chris Browne
-6a Atlanta
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> Drywall supply houses sell fire rated caulking compound that works
> well. It's original intent is to seal gaps in building fire walls made
> from gypsum sheet rock. - Bob
>
> From: MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM
> > What are you guys using to seal firewall penetrations; I am using
> > rubber gromets and SS shields, but when several wires are using the
> > same hole there is still an air gap.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy Dollarhide" <dollarhide(at)ti.com> |
After the N-number discussion here the other day I went to the FAA web site
and pulled the data base. It is over 22 megabytes long required another
100 meg to unzip. There are two files (Master and Reserved) that contain
N-number data. Looks like these are probably updated monthly.
I tried to load the data into an Excel file but the files were much to
big to fit, even with most of the supplied fields omitted. Sooo. I sat
down and wrote a C program to extract the data I wanted. It is nothing
fancy but will tell me if the N-number I am interested in is in either
of the data files. I can also do a wildcard search to find the numbers
in a series that appear in either of the data files. For example,
my initials are BD. To find all the N-numbers that have two numbers
followed by "BD" I would enter **BD. I can then pick a number that
does not appear in the list as one I would like to have.
There is one catch. The program is only as accurate as the data
contained in the FAA files. I called the FAA several weeks ago,
before I wrote the program, to check a list of desired N-numbers.
The FAA told me a number of these were "REVOKED", but none of them
appear in either of the data files.
So, with that said, I would be glad to do a search for list members
and e-mail the results. Or, if you want to download the FAA file, I
would be glad to send you a copy of the program so you can do your
own search. Please contact me off the list.
Billy D
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lLooking for front Fan + |
CHECK OUT BARNSTORMERS.COM. THEN ENGINE SEARCH
SCOTT
TAMPA
RV6A TIPPER
ENGINE & PROP IN HAND WHOOO HOOOOO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: DFW RV Builder's Group July 15th Cookout / Get-together |
Doug,
This egroups thing is not being very friendly. It says I am a member of
the group, but won't let me log in. We would like to come to your get
together. What time will it be? And what is your address? Thanks!
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Made up my own exhaust hangar system from steel (did the fwall forward
>before Larry came out with his hangar system) and it broke twice within 60
>hrs. Replaced it with the Vetterman system which made it about 20 hrs before
>one of the bent pieces broke where it's flattened out, as did one of the
>adel clamps. Larry sent me replacements right away and that's been fine so
>far, except that after another 20 hrs or so, bot the adel clamps broke!
My Vetterman supports broke three times in about the first 50 hours. The
flattenened tubing broke at the squeeze points and the adel clamps also
broke. Very aggravating. I spoke with Larry and did a mod he
recommended where two adel clamps are used at the top support points
rather than one. The two clamps are bridged with a piece of thick
aluminum which supports the rest of the system from a hole drilled in the
middle.
I also remade all the tubing pieces and at the recommendation of George
West, a local helper, I pounded the tubing (brake line) flat with a
hammer instead of squeezing with a vise. Makes a more gentle bend. We
also silver soldered wire near the unflattened tubing ends to make a lip
which holds the hose on better.
Larry also indicated to me that my problems were rare. I have had no
further problems in about the last 150 hours.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Seeger <n609ps(at)ptw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Wing Kit for Sale |
Spars assembled and ribs ready to mount.
Please call 661-296-6800 if interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Band-It Clamps |
The tool looks like a turn-of-the-century nipper/plier. Its the type the three
stooges use to pull teeth in their skits........ only a little smaller. I got
mine at the lawn sprinkler shop as also I got my clamps....
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net on 06/29/2000 09:08:11 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Band-It Clamps
Can someone tell me how to clinch Band-It Jr. clamps? These are the clamps
for firesleeve, and I can't pull the loose end to save me.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator oil caning |
take a pair of hand seamers and bend the flange of the inboard rib down to
take the oil can out
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 11:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: elevator oil caning
>
> guys, just finished first of the two elevators. i have IMHO a severe oil
can
> problem over about 50% of the elevator-specificly the larger or inboard
half.
> Is the common?
> will it effect flight? or better yet will vibration or flutter cause to
come
> apart? thanx in advance, bob in arksans
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
While cruzing the net looking for cheap sources of the 3M Fire Barrier 2000,
I found this product. It looks like it would work well for treating
interior fabric.
http://www.jeffry.com/technology/bwt/avail_now/fire_barrier.htm
Fire Barrier TE is the only Non-Hazardous, Bio/Degradable and Earth Friendly
fire retardant product on the market
today. It has been thoroughly tested by an internationally
recognized laboratory and has been given a
non-toxic rating in the critical areas of eye irritation, skin
irritation, and/or oral consumption. (See attached sheet
for specs). Fire Barrier is an aqueous solution of inorganic
materials, formulated to provide a flame retardant up
to 35000 Fahrenheit before ignition. It accomplishes this by
incorporating a blocking mechanism, which inhibits
the flame penetration to the substrate materials. When properly
applied to porous substrates, it provides a Class A
fire retardancy, and has no visible effect on the substrates,
nor does it change the feel, texture, or serviceability of
the substrate. It is easily applied and is not harmful to
humans or animal life or the environment. All of the
chemicals used in this formula are presently being used in the
food processing industry. As a result, Fire Barrier has
a non-hazardous base. (Formula TE meets and exceeds UL
Requirements.)
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Firewall |
> The 3M product is called Fire Barrier 2000. ACS has it, but if you can
> find a 3M Fire Protection Product outlet, you will save alot of money.
This 3M product looks real slick.
http://www.3m.com/market/construction/fpp/html/p_11.html
3MT Fire Barrier Moldable Putty+
Product Data
1. Product
Description:
3M Fire Barrier Moldable
Putty+ consists of a
synthetic elastomer
designed for use as a one
part, intumescent fire
resistive putty used to
restore the integrity of fire
rated building
construction. Up to a four hour fire rating is achieved when
tested in accordance with the time/temperature curves and
water hose stream tests of UL 1479 and ASTM E 814. This is
achieved by the unique intumescent (expanding when heated)
and high strength insulating char-forming properties of this
material. 3M Moldable Putty+ Stixs MPS-2 are approximately
1.6 inches (40,6 mm) in diameter by 11 inches (279 mm) in
length. Moldable Putty+ Pads MPP-1+ are 4 x 8 x 1/8 inches
(102 mm x 203 mm x 3,2 mm) and MPP-4S+ are 7 x 7 x 1/8
inches (178 mm x 178mm x 3,2 mm), MPP-5S+ are 9.5 x 9.5 x
1/8 inches (241,3 mm x 241,3 mm x 3,2 mm) approximate
dimensions.
Features:
Halogen-free formula: Free from corrosive gases during a
fire, making it safe for building occupants and sensitive
electrical equipment.
Minimal odor.
Long shelf-life: Stix and pad packages can be sealed for
reuse. Putty will not dry out or crumble.
Easily re-enterable.
Provides a draft and cold smoke seal in the installed
condition, even before any temperature rise occurs,
resultant from a fire.
Adheres to all common building surfaces (Cement,
gypsum, wood and plastic), including metal and plastic
electrical boxes.
One part, solventless pads or stix are easily hand molded,
with no damming required (this applies to non-insulated
metal pipe/conduit), allowing for easy application.
Intumescent: expands when heated, forming a hard char,
preventing the transmission of hot gases and fire.
Designed to meet the intent of NEC 300-21 (NFPA 70).
ICBO, SBCCI and BOCA Building Codes.
No special tools required.
Contains no asbestos, non-toxic.
2. Applications:
Used to seal construction gaps, cable (including fiber optic
inner duct and cable), insulated pipe, electrical conduit, and
metal pipe, penetrations against air draft, smoke, noxious gas
and flame propagation. Maximum metal pipe size is 10 inches
in diameter according to UL system 202.
8. Availability:
3M Moldable Putty+ Stix are available in 1.6 diameter by 11
inch long stix (40,6 mm x 279 mm), approximate dimensions,
and are packaged 10 stix per box. Moldable Putty+ Pads are
available 4 x 8 x 1/8 inch pads (102 mm x 203 mm x 3,2mm)
and are packaged 10 pads per box, 10 boxes per carton and in
7 x 7 x 1/8 inch pads (178 mm x 178 mm x 3,2 mm), 9.5 x 9.5 x
1/8 inch pads (241,3 mm x 241,3 mm x 3,2 mm), and are
packaged 20 per box and 5 boxes per carton.
Fire Protection Products
3M Center 207-1S-02
St. Paul, MN 55144-1000
800 328 1687
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance Quality |
Listers:
I just unpacked and inventoried my airflow kit for an O360/RV4 project.
It is about as turn key as any system could me. Every mount, fixture,
hose, tube, connection is there as is a very complete manual with
pictures, theory and examples of installations. I have called twice and
had super product support eventhough the questions were stupid.
I really can't think of anyway I could have made it easier to inject
this engine. Price is very competitive too. Just wanted to pass on a
good experience.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
FWF at last
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | 3M Fire Barrier Moldable Putty+ |
I just ordered some of this. 1 stick is about $15. 3M Moldable Putty+
Stixs MPS-2 are approximately 1.6 inches (40,6 mm) in diameter by 11 inches
(279 mm) in length. I should have enough to share with friends.
To find your distributor go to
http://www.3m.com/market/construction/fpp/html/d_index.html
info on material is at
http://www.3m.com/market/construction/fpp/html/p_11.html
>
> 3MT Fire Barrier Moldable Putty+
> Product Data
>
> 1. Product
> Description:
>
> 3M Fire Barrier Moldable
> Putty+ consists of a
> synthetic elastomer
> designed for use as a one
> part, intumescent fire
> resistive putty used to
> restore the integrity of fire
> rated building
> construction.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | 3M Fire Barrier Moldable Putty+ |
I just ordered some of this. 1 stick is about $15. 3M Moldable Putty+
Stixs MPS-2 are approximately 1.6 inches (40,6 mm) in diameter by 11 inches
(279 mm) in length. I should have enough to share with friends.
To find your distributor go to
http://www.3m.com/market/construction/fpp/html/d_index.html
info on material is at
http://www.3m.com/market/construction/fpp/html/p_11.html
>
> 3MT Fire Barrier Moldable Putty+
> Product Data
>
> 1. Product
> Description:
>
> 3M Fire Barrier Moldable
> Putty+ consists of a
> synthetic elastomer
> designed for use as a one
> part, intumescent fire
> resistive putty used to
> restore the integrity of fire
> rated building
> construction.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
i checked archives but have found very little to solve oil canning. i think i
know now where i went wrong, but i need some help as to a solve oil canning
on a completed rudder on a pp 6. thanks in advance, bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator bracket & ND alternator |
List:
I just received from Van's an alternator bracket kit (made of bent
steel) and when I made a trial fit of my (used Honda Civic Nippondenso)
alternator, I found that the adjustment arm doesn't reach around the
alternator far enough to mate up with the attachment hole. I'm concerned
that maybe my alternator is too large physically or maybe because of the
orientation of the mounts, this is not one of the suitable alternator
models. Another possibility is that Van's bracket is too short. It is bent
and adjustable from approx 5 3/4 - 7".
I also noticed that the "B" lead out of the alternator will be very
close to the engine case; and noticed that the unit fits better if turned
180 degrees and mounted up side down - with the adjustment arm bolting up
with the 2 1/4" wide mount (totally unacceptable).
I would like to know if someone else has experienced this.
Thanks.
Tom Barnes -6 finishing O-360 A1A, cs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
>Larry also indicated to me that my problems were rare. I have had
>no further problems in about the last 150 hours.
Seems I've heard this kind of statement before from vendors when I
knew better. Aircraft Spruce comes to mind very quickly. :-)
Although I really like Larry's pipes, I'm really not very happy with his
hangers. I bought a set and remember not being very impressed with
what I got for what I paid. I had one of the bent tubes break in the
first ten hours. I modified mine and am doing OK with them, so far.
I've got just over fifty hours on my RV.
It seems to me that Larry should be reading some of our complaints
and maybe modifying his design so that it doesn't break, like the ones
before. I'm sure he'd like to put out a good product and maybe is a
little too defensive of a product that really isn't up to the quality that
we see in the pipes. Maybe one of his friends can help to enlighten
him? That would surely help those builders who are behind us.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | How to use your HVLP - I'm ready for lesson 1 |
Fellow listers,
I'm getting ready to prime my collection of empennage spars so I thought I'd
better ask how this silly green gun works.
Yes it's the Harbor Freight 38308 like most everyone else got on sale!
Here's the setup so far...
Pressure from the compressor 35PSI.
The air cap (that's what they called it - I really think it's another
pressure regulator) is set for 5PSI with the trigger pulled and air going
through it. The primer instructions say 5-6 psi for HVLP.
*** Does that mean while it's running or sitting there holding pressure? ***
I've got the nozzle's ears pointing left and right providing a vertical
spray pattern. I think that this should be left/right for left/right sweep
during application and up/down for up/down sweep during application since it
produces the opposite pattern.
*** Is this correct? ***
I've got the Air Adjusting Valve set at midpoint. (Based on how many turns
between bottoming out and falling out.)
*** How did the rest of you set this one up? ***
I've got the Fluid Control Knob set at midpoint. (Based on how many turns
between bottoming out and falling out.)
*** How did the rest of you set this one up? ***
I've got the spray pattern (Flat to Round) set at midpoint. (Based on how
many turns between off and full.)
*** How did the rest of you set this one up? ***
If it matters (no flames - please since I've already bought the stuff) I'm
using the Sherwin Williams E2-G973 OliveGreenTransparent mixed/reduced
according to their instructions.
Having never done this before (how many times have I said that lately?), I
want to get it right and use the lessons learned by those that went before
me.
I didn't find anything like this in the archives - or maybe I searched to
tightly?!
Let me know how you've set yours up. I'm going to spend the next weekend
uncrating my 6A Slider QB since we go to Roadway to pick it up in the
morning so there's time to let this one get answered.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB Slider N822AR Reserved - you know the story...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
I have not yet seen his pipes, but I can tell you I've read a LOT of
breakage reports on this list. I also believe Jon Johanson cracked some
exhaust parts coming to Hawaii on his first trip (totally from
memory....shoot me if I'm mistaken). There are several places I've had
custom exhaust for race cars made near me....none of them has cracked or
broken in anyway to my knowledge. Maybe I'll just have a set made locally
when that time comes. Anyone else done this? It just doesn't seem like
brain surgery to me.....other than hauling the fuse over there for the
fitting.....
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust Support Failures
>
> >Larry also indicated to me that my problems were rare. I have had
> >no further problems in about the last 150 hours.
>
> Seems I've heard this kind of statement before from vendors when I
> knew better. Aircraft Spruce comes to mind very quickly. :-)
>
> Although I really like Larry's pipes, I'm really not very happy with his
> hangers. I bought a set and remember not being very impressed with
> what I got for what I paid. I had one of the bent tubes break in the
> first ten hours. I modified mine and am doing OK with them, so far.
> I've got just over fifty hours on my RV.
>
> It seems to me that Larry should be reading some of our complaints
> and maybe modifying his design so that it doesn't break, like the ones
> before. I'm sure he'd like to put out a good product and maybe is a
> little too defensive of a product that really isn't up to the quality that
> we see in the pipes. Maybe one of his friends can help to enlighten
> him? That would surely help those builders who are behind us.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to use your HVLP - I'm ready for lesson 1 |
Ralph,
Many of us have this gun and I can't remember anyone saying bad things
about it. Therefore there are some real good articles on the archives.
I set mine up with as follows: A regulator and moisture seperator
supplying approximately 60 psi to a 25' yellow coiled 3/8" hose attached to
the gun. The green regulator at the input to the gun is set to about 35-40
psi. When the trigger is pulled, the pressure drops about 4 psi. The 4-5
psi that you are reading is measured at the gun tip. I believe you would
have to drill and tap the tip cone and install a miniture guage in order to
see that number that they publish. I can tell when the pressure is too high
by small parts being blown off the table. When the pressure is too low, the
paint appears as blotches of liquid, probably because it didn't atomize.
When the pressure is too high, spider webs form when you spray in the air.
The best tip I can give you is to PRACTICE and find out what works for
you. Second best tip is to be sure you have cleaned the surface you are
going to paint. In my early days, I thought the paint was failing to
adhere, since then, I've learned to clean everything with alumiprep even
when priming with a self etching primer. It works for ME.
Good luck.
Tom Barnes -6 finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 4:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: How to use your HVLP - I'm ready for lesson 1
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I'm getting ready to prime my collection of empennage spars so I thought
I'd
> better ask how this silly green gun works.
>
> Yes it's the Harbor Freight 38308 like most everyone else got on sale!
>
> Here's the setup so far...
>
> Pressure from the compressor 35PSI.
> The air cap (that's what they called it - I really think it's another
> pressure regulator) is set for 5PSI with the trigger pulled and air going
> through it. The primer instructions say 5-6 psi for HVLP.
>
> *** Does that mean while it's running or sitting there holding pressure?
***
snip~
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB Slider N822AR Reserved - you know the story...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: How to use your HVLP - I'm ready for lesson 1 |
Hi Ralph, Im using Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash Primer P60 G2 Green, Is
this the same as your stuff? This is the same stuff Vans uses on their
prototype and demo planes, not sure what they use on QB kits, but anyway when
I was at their prototype shop looking at the -9 under construction, I noticed
their primer was a whole lot lighter than mine, Van says they thin it quite a
bit more than the instructions say. My parts came out dark green, theirs you
could barely tell it was on there. so I am going to start thinning mine more
too. just getting ready to prime my left wing ribs and spars. As far as
setting up the gun, just play around with it spraying a big piece of
cardboard until you have a decent looking spray pattern. It doesn't take long
to get the hang of it.
Kevin Shannon
-9A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
Sorry but the tubing material appears wrong choice weak. This is the 3rd failure
on 2 planes that I know of.
My plane now at 56 hours was found broke in preflight this AM....
Kept me from invading Canada and the Hamilton Warplane Musuem, big plans dashed.
IMHO this is to many failures.
Well have a patch so I can fly it this weekend, but long term there needs to be
something better!
N58DM David McManmon, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: compressor soundproofing |
In a message dated 6/30/00 5:21:48 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
armstrong(at)coastside.net writes:
<<
I have rebuilt many air compressors for the US Navy. One thing they all
have that really helps quiet them down is what they call a silencer on the
intake port. This can be easily constructed from sheet metal. It just
makes the air do two 180 turns on the way into the compressor so the noise
can't get back out.
George Armstrong,
Finishing Trim tab. >>
One thing that worked for me, I found a small oil
bath air cleaner from an industrial engine and adapted it to my compressor
intake. It keeps the dust out of the pump and it`s a good muffler.
Fred Laforge RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to use your HVLP - I'm ready for lesson 1 |
Ralph, one of the things you can do to really help learn how to use the
hvlp gun is to get a big junk panel, cardboard or something to spray
against and just do a practice spray from side to side. Then adjust you
mixture knob slightly and spray another line and see what it does. The
same goes for the air volume. After a while you will know what position
each knob will have to be in to product the result you want. Move the gun
in a bit, out a bit, etc.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Peoria, AZ
aa1-a N9205L
rv-6a finishing fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I have the Vetterman cross-over exhausts only 160HP LYcoming....five years
now and not a bit of trouble...made my own suspension system using Larry's
suggested method...two "arms" down from the engine block...a hunk of auto
tire attached to the end of each...the other end of the tire piece to a
'hook" to attach to the tubes with a compression ring...and a 'spreader' bar
between to space the pipes properly.
I just finished my 'annual condition inspection' and VERY carefully
inspected every inch of the system, and still not a bit of trouble. FWIW
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
I have not yet seen his pipes, but I can tell you I've read a LOT of
breakage reports on this list. I also believe Jon Johanson cracked some
exhaust parts coming to Hawaii on his first trip (totally from
memory....shoot me if I'm mistaken). There are several places I've had
custom exhaust for race cars made near me....none of them has cracked or
broken in anyway to my knowledge. Maybe I'll just have a set made locally
when that time comes. Anyone else done this? It just doesn't seem like
brain surgery to me.....other than hauling the fuse over there for the
fitting.....
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust Support Failures
>
> >Larry also indicated to me that my problems were rare. I have had
> >no further problems in about the last 150 hours.
>
> Seems I've heard this kind of statement before from vendors when I
> knew better. Aircraft Spruce comes to mind very quickly. :-)
>
> Although I really like Larry's pipes, I'm really not very happy with his
> hangers. I bought a set and remember not being very impressed with
> what I got for what I paid. I had one of the bent tubes break in the
> first ten hours. I modified mine and am doing OK with them, so far.
> I've got just over fifty hours on my RV.
>
> It seems to me that Larry should be reading some of our complaints
> and maybe modifying his design so that it doesn't break, like the ones
> before. I'm sure he'd like to put out a good product and maybe is a
> little too defensive of a product that really isn't up to the quality that
> we see in the pipes. Maybe one of his friends can help to enlighten
> him? That would surely help those builders who are behind us.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Scribing aluminum |
There doesn't seem to be much in the archives about this, so here goes:
Would using an electric scriber on aluminum pieces to mark them prior to
priming damage or weaken the pieces? I noticed Van's uses a scriber to
mark the ends of the spar flange strips, and I would like to be able to
mark all my ribs and reinforcing angles before taking them off the spars
for priming. Would a little scriber mark on the rib web do any damage?
If so, what other method works well, and will survive the
etch/alodine/priming process?
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
Bill, I think you need to research what you say before you say it. Yes there
have been failures reported in the supports but there have been very few
failures of the exhaust pipes themselves. Some people have had nothing but bad
luck with the support brackets supplied by Larry while others have had no
problems at all. So without looking at each and every installation we can draw
no conclusions from this thread.
Go ahead and have a specialty race shop build your pipes and I'll bet they will
crack big time. There is a big difference between our air cooled mostly
aluminum engines and water cooled automobile racing engines. Expansion and
vibration are the death of aircraft exhaust. There is an alternative to buying
Larry's pipes, another gentleman fabricates RV exhaust (or used to) and has a
miserable rep for cracking. Search the archives .
Gary Zilik
Vetterman pipes and brackets with no failures to date. 60hrs.
Bill Shook wrote:
>
> I have not yet seen his pipes, but I can tell you I've read a LOT of
> breakage reports on this list. I also believe Jon Johanson cracked some
> exhaust parts coming to Hawaii on his first trip (totally from
> memory....shoot me if I'm mistaken). There are several places I've had
> custom exhaust for race cars made near me....none of them has cracked or
> broken in anyway to my knowledge. Maybe I'll just have a set made locally
> when that time comes. Anyone else done this? It just doesn't seem like
> brain surgery to me.....other than hauling the fuse over there for the
> fitting.....
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
>
>I have not yet seen his pipes, but I can tell you I've read a LOT of
>breakage reports on this list. I also believe Jon Johanson cracked some
>exhaust parts coming to Hawaii on his first trip (totally from
>memory....shoot me if I'm mistaken).
Just to be clear. Larry Vetterman's exhaust systems are top drawer. I
don't think you will find any finer work anywhere. Some previous exhaust
systems that were marketed to the RVers were very troublesome. I have never
read of any problems with the Vetterman exhaust .
It is the exhaust supports that we are complaining about.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Collins Microline Pinout |
Can anyone help with pinout information on the following Collins equipment?
vhf-251; vir-351; gls-350 & ind-351a
thanks,
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to use your HVLP - I'm ready for lesson 1 |
Ralph,
I took a large piece of cardboard and use that to test spray everytime I
set the thing up after cleaning. Specific adjustments are difficult to
specify so just set it up to where you get good coverage and no runs. This
will change based on how far or near from the piece you hold the gun. Once
you establish what works for you, write those down and use that for your
enitial settings next time. With the HVLP gun and pound or two of pressure
difference from job to job will make a difference.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 5:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: How to use your HVLP - I'm ready for lesson 1
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I'm getting ready to prime my collection of empennage spars so I thought
I'd
> better ask how this silly green gun works.
>
> Yes it's the Harbor Freight 38308 like most everyone else got on sale!
>
> Here's the setup so far...
>
> Pressure from the compressor 35PSI.
> The air cap (that's what they called it - I really think it's another
> pressure regulator) is set for 5PSI with the trigger pulled and air going
> through it. The primer instructions say 5-6 psi for HVLP.
>
> *** Does that mean while it's running or sitting there holding pressure?
***
>
> I've got the nozzle's ears pointing left and right providing a vertical
> spray pattern. I think that this should be left/right for left/right
sweep
> during application and up/down for up/down sweep during application since
it
> produces the opposite pattern.
>
> *** Is this correct? ***
>
> I've got the Air Adjusting Valve set at midpoint. (Based on how many
turns
> between bottoming out and falling out.)
>
> *** How did the rest of you set this one up? ***
>
> I've got the Fluid Control Knob set at midpoint. (Based on how many turns
> between bottoming out and falling out.)
>
> *** How did the rest of you set this one up? ***
>
> I've got the spray pattern (Flat to Round) set at midpoint. (Based on how
> many turns between off and full.)
>
> *** How did the rest of you set this one up? ***
>
> If it matters (no flames - please since I've already bought the stuff) I'm
> using the Sherwin Williams E2-G973 OliveGreenTransparent mixed/reduced
> according to their instructions.
>
> Having never done this before (how many times have I said that lately?),
I
> want to get it right and use the lessons learned by those that went before
> me.
>
> I didn't find anything like this in the archives - or maybe I searched to
> tightly?!
>
> Let me know how you've set yours up. I'm going to spend the next weekend
> uncrating my 6A Slider QB since we go to Roadway to pick it up in the
> morning so there's time to let this one get answered.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB Slider N822AR Reserved - you know the story...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
In a message dated 6/30/00 8:43:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jpoint(at)execpc.com writes:
<< There doesn't seem to be much in the archives about this, so here goes:
Would using an electric scriber on aluminum pieces to mark them prior to
priming damage or weaken the pieces? I noticed Van's uses a scriber to
mark the ends of the spar flange strips, and I would like to be able to
mark all my ribs and reinforcing angles before taking them off the spars
for priming. Would a little scriber mark on the rib web do any damage?
If so, what other method works well, and will survive the
etch/alodine/priming process?
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI >>
I can't advocate the scriber, but I simply had a black sharpie pen handy
whenever I etched, cleaned and/or primed internal parts. When I fitted the
parts, I wrote a part number on them ( for instance, I might have had a LWR1
(Left Wing Rib 1), LWR2, etc). Then, when I took them apart for dimpling or
cleaning, I worked on one at a time and marked them again with the marker.
When you prime internal structure, most primers are applied so thin you can
see the lettering through them, even if the sharpie ink doesn't bleed
through. In any case, you can read enough to ID the parts after priming.
KB
Why, oh why, can't I get my brakes bled....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
> Bill, I think you need to research what you say before you say it. Yes
there
> have been failures reported in the supports but there have been very few
> failures of the exhaust pipes themselves.
If the support fails, the pipe cannot be too far behind....otherwise why do
you need the support at all? Just because the support failures are found
before the pipe fails doesn't mean it's not a problem.
> Some people have had nothing but bad
> luck with the support brackets supplied by Larry while others have had no
> problems at all. So without looking at each and every installation we can
draw
> no conclusions from this thread.
The only conclusion I've drawn is that I don't want a system in my plane
that has been shown to fail with some regularity. If you've been reading
the list for the last few days you've heard several failures, multiple
failures and repeated failures of the same system. I don't like that, and
yes I believe there are others out there who are more talented at design and
welding.
>
> Go ahead and have a specialty race shop build your pipes and I'll bet they
will
> crack big time.
I'll take that bet. Let's say loser buys the first round. You have sixty
hours on your system....bet you lose before mine is even in the air :-)
> There is a big difference between our air cooled mostly
> aluminum engines and water cooled automobile racing engines. Expansion and
> vibration are the death of aircraft exhaust.
Ah, to quote you 'research what you say before you say it'. Porsche race
engine = aluminum case, aluminum cylinders with nikasil coating, aluminum
heads and pistons, turbo charged flat six, AIR COOLED with far less air
contact than the lycosaur, 450 hp at least and EGT's quickly exceeding 1300
under boost. You wanna see expansion and contraction? Watch the next race
on speed vision. Watch that glowing red exhaust pipe run for 24 hours
through rain and sun while bouncing all over the track without cracking. Do
not be fooled into believing the most talented fabricators are working on
homebuilt exhaust systems.....that's just silly. Do you think the vetterman
systems are made out of unobtanium? It's just stainless, it's just
welded.....there really isn't much more to it. Yes, some mild steel sytems
have proven not to stand up....but build it out of the right materials, with
a talented welder and you won't have any troubles.
That's the joy of building your own plane.....you can do what you want.
Bill
-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Granby, CO Fly-in |
Our local EAA chapter is throwing it's first fly-in at Granby, Colorado (GNB)
next Saturday July 8. There will be free breakfast to all who fly in, a few
awards to hand out, and a great day in the mountains for all.
We hope to see all you Denver RVers and everyone else who can make it over.
For more information write back here, or call me at 970 887-2207.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Between seat console box.. |
Does anyone remember some one with the drawings ,specs
on a box assy between the seats of the rv-6 ..My old age
is not helping much.....I did check the archive..
Thanks
John McMahon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
Hi Jeff:
Rather than scribe I made up a batch of number tags using scrap cut into one
inch squares and drill a small hole for tag wire, then numbered them with my
number punches. Have been using them for years and they must have dozens of
coats of primer on them but you can still see the numbers..
Eustace Bowhay
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Friday, June 30, 2000 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scribing aluminum
>
>In a message dated 6/30/00 8:43:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>jpoint(at)execpc.com writes:
>
><< There doesn't seem to be much in the archives about this, so here goes:
> Would using an electric scriber on aluminum pieces to mark them prior to
> priming damage or weaken the pieces? I noticed Van's uses a scriber to
> mark the ends of the spar flange strips, and I would like to be able to
> mark all my ribs and reinforcing angles before taking them off the spars
> for priming. Would a little scriber mark on the rib web do any damage?
> If so, what other method works well, and will survive the
> etch/alodine/priming process?
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 wings
> Milwaukee, WI >>
>
>I can't advocate the scriber, but I simply had a black sharpie pen handy
>whenever I etched, cleaned and/or primed internal parts. When I fitted the
>parts, I wrote a part number on them ( for instance, I might have had a
LWR1
>(Left Wing Rib 1), LWR2, etc). Then, when I took them apart for dimpling
or
>cleaning, I worked on one at a time and marked them again with the marker.
>When you prime internal structure, most primers are applied so thin you can
>see the lettering through them, even if the sharpie ink doesn't bleed
>through. In any case, you can read enough to ID the parts after priming.
>
>KB
>
>Why, oh why, can't I get my brakes bled....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust Support Failures
>Gary Zilik
>Vetterman pipes and brackets with no failures to date. 60hrs.
Gary, Bill et al.
I have the older crossover system of poor reputation (not made by Vetterman)
and have had no cracking in 6 years and 520 hours of operation (160hp). I
made my own supports, initially of 3/8-4130 tubing bolted to the crankcase
and clamped to the pipes with SS hose clamps. The left side failed
somewhere between 100-150 hours and was replaced with a like part more
carefully fabricated. It too failed and was replaced with a mild steel flat
bar bolted to the crankcase, terminated with a 3/16 hole to which was
affixed a hardware store spring that used about .100" wire, about 8 coils
with semicircular ends. To this spring a triangular SS flat stock loop was
threaded and the same SS hose clamp used to attach to the pipe. At about
400 hours the right side failed and was replaced with the above described
assembly. No problems since. I suspect some failures are related to making
things too rigid. My first attempts certainly were that. I should say that
the supports are made to put the springs is mild tension.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
Bill, I think you have jumped over the edge on this one.
The Vetterman (High Country) exhaust systems are incredibly well made.
Every A&P type who has seen the exhaust on my RV-6 has been spellbound
by it. The quality of the welds is a joy to behold and the fit to the
engine is.......well.......perfect.
Now, I realize that I may sound as it I am gushing over the quality of
the headers, but nearly everybody who has a set of these pipes is going
to amen what I am saying. The system has proven to be extremely reliable
in the field, with the infrequent, and I repeat, infrequent failure of
hangars being the only hiccups.
Exhaust hangers have been the Achilles heel to every exhaust system ever
installed on an RV. The reason why the hangers are necessary on the
Vetterman system is because of the admirable "flexibility" designed into
the headers. Every pipe has either a slip joint or ball joint, and this
is why you hear of almost NO failures due to cracks. The slip joints are
necessary due to expansion of the entire engine installation and for
vibration damping, and if you have slip joints, then something is going
to have to hold the tail pipes in the correct position, consequently we
have hangers.
I don't personally know Larry Vetterman (I spoke to him on the phone
once) or what his mechanical background is, but the guy nailed it when
he designed his exhaust system.
I have the mounts that consist of the stainless tubes and my kit is one
of the early kits. I have been concerned with the way the ends of two of
the tubes are squashed flat and bent to a forty-five angle, but so far
there have been no failures after 150 hrs. The later kits have a less
drastic "squash" on the ends and I think they will hold up fine. It
seems that the angle with which the hangers are installed on the motor
mount is crucial to reliable service. It also seems that some particular
engine installations just tend to break things, and possibly some of the
failures have been on such installations.
Keep in mind, regardless of what you have read on this list on the past
couple of days, there have been few failures of the brackets on the
hundreds of headers in service.
Bill, I suggest that before you muddy the waters too much concerning
exhaust systems that you hold your judgment until you have firsthand
experience with the exhaust on an RV, preferably yours. There are
newbies on the list that unfortunately swallow every bit of rumor and
gossip they read from listers, and all of us have a great responsibility
to write only concerning first hand experience.
We are building experimental airplanes, and you can build the exhaust on
your plane out of vacuum cleaner pipes for all I care, but I seriously
doubt that you will match the quality of the Vetterman system for
anywhere near the price, if at all. I suspect the big-buck Porsche
headers would fail if they were hooked up to a non-too-well balanced 360
ci four cylinder engine and subjected to several hundred hours of
operation with no maintenance.
Good luck with your project,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
================
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> > Bill, I think you need to research what you say before you say it. Yes
> there
> > have been failures reported in the supports but there have been very few
> > failures of the exhaust pipes themselves.
>
> If the support fails, the pipe cannot be too far behind....otherwise why do
> you need the support at all? Just because the support failures are found
> before the pipe fails doesn't mean it's not a problem.
>
> > Some people have had nothing but bad
> > luck with the support brackets supplied by Larry while others have had no
> > problems at all. So without looking at each and every installation we can
> draw
> > no conclusions from this thread.
>
> The only conclusion I've drawn is that I don't want a system in my plane
> that has been shown to fail with some regularity. If you've been reading
> the list for the last few days you've heard several failures, multiple
> failures and repeated failures of the same system. I don't like that, and
> yes I believe there are others out there who are more talented at design and
> welding.
>
> >
> > Go ahead and have a specialty race shop build your pipes and I'll bet they
> will
> > crack big time.
>
> I'll take that bet. Let's say loser buys the first round. You have sixty
> hours on your system....bet you lose before mine is even in the air :-)
>
> > There is a big difference between our air cooled mostly
> > aluminum engines and water cooled automobile racing engines. Expansion and
> > vibration are the death of aircraft exhaust.
>
> Ah, to quote you 'research what you say before you say it'. Porsche race
> engine = aluminum case, aluminum cylinders with nikasil coating, aluminum
> heads and pistons, turbo charged flat six, AIR COOLED with far less air
> contact than the lycosaur, 450 hp at least and EGT's quickly exceeding 1300
> under boost. You wanna see expansion and contraction? Watch the next race
> on speed vision. Watch that glowing red exhaust pipe run for 24 hours
> through rain and sun while bouncing all over the track without cracking. Do
> not be fooled into believing the most talented fabricators are working on
> homebuilt exhaust systems.....that's just silly. Do you think the vetterman
> systems are made out of unobtanium? It's just stainless, it's just
> welded.....there really isn't much more to it. Yes, some mild steel sytems
> have proven not to stand up....but build it out of the right materials, with
> a talented welder and you won't have any troubles.
>
> That's the joy of building your own plane.....you can do what you want.
>
> Bill
> -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
I to have had a failure on the exhaust support in less then 25 hours. The
left side of the bracket broke right at the beginning of the flattend out
spot .What I did was to flatten out a little more and drill a new hole and go
on. seemes to be holding now with 50 hours. A bracket welded on the motor
mount might be a better soultion. Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3M Fire Barrier Moldable Putty+ |
Looking on the 3M website, I didn't notice in the specifications that
this product is resistant to gasoline and oil. Since it appears to be
designed for use in construction, that may not have been a requirement. Did
I miss it?
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Friday, June 30, 2000 12:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: 3M Fire Barrier Moldable Putty+
>
>
>I just ordered some of this. 1 stick is about $15. 3M Moldable Putty+
>Stixs MPS-2 are approximately 1.6 inches (40,6 mm) in diameter by 11 inches
>(279 mm) in length. I should have enough to share with friends.
>
>To find your distributor go to
>
>http://www.3m.com/market/construction/fpp/html/d_index.html
>
>info on material is at
>
>http://www.3m.com/market/construction/fpp/html/p_11.html
>>
>> 3MT Fire Barrier Moldable Putty+
>> Product Data
>>
>> 1. Product
>> Description:
>>
>> 3M Fire Barrier Moldable
>> Putty+ consists of a
>> synthetic elastomer
>> designed for use as a one
>> part, intumescent fire
>> resistive putty used to
>> restore the integrity of fire
>> rated building
>> construction.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
I really don't get it. Why is it when you put a bunch of pilot's together
they each will feel that their way is the only way. I admire a person's
dedication to the product they choose, but stating that it is the only way
to go is rediculous.
I've jumped over the edge? For believing that more than one person in the
USA can make an exhaust system for an RV? Ok then, you're probably right.
This is what I initially sent to the list
"Maybe I'll just have a set made locally
when that time comes. Anyone else done this? It just doesn't seem like
brain surgery to me.....other than hauling the fuse over there for the
fitting....."
And for that I need to research what I say before I say it, and I've jumped
over the edge. Ok, I give up. For the record, Vetterman is the only man in
the United States capable of making a slip joint or understanding a ball
joint in as far as it's use on an RV exhaust. You guys are amazing. Short
sighted....but amazing none the less. Small wonder that people run from
this list screaming, or that Van's has no representation here. Suggest
something outside of what 'those in the know' have done and they flog you
for being stupid. Neither of them even asked the qualifications of the
fabricator I'm speaking of.....I guess that is unimportant since he hasn't
worked on their aircraft. Geeze.
Sorry if I scuffed anyone's belief that there is only one path.
Bill
>
> Bill, I think you have jumped over the edge on this one.
>
> The Vetterman (High Country) exhaust systems are incredibly well made.
> Every A&P type who has seen the exhaust on my RV-6 has been spellbound
> by it. The quality of the welds is a joy to behold and the fit to the
> engine is.......well.......perfect.
>
> Now, I realize that I may sound as it I am gushing over the quality of
> the headers, but nearly everybody who has a set of these pipes is going
> to amen what I am saying. The system has proven to be extremely reliable
> in the field, with the infrequent, and I repeat, infrequent failure of
> hangars being the only hiccups.
>
> Exhaust hangers have been the Achilles heel to every exhaust system ever
> installed on an RV. The reason why the hangers are necessary on the
> Vetterman system is because of the admirable "flexibility" designed into
> the headers. Every pipe has either a slip joint or ball joint, and this
> is why you hear of almost NO failures due to cracks. The slip joints are
> necessary due to expansion of the entire engine installation and for
> vibration damping, and if you have slip joints, then something is going
> to have to hold the tail pipes in the correct position, consequently we
> have hangers.
>
> I don't personally know Larry Vetterman (I spoke to him on the phone
> once) or what his mechanical background is, but the guy nailed it when
> he designed his exhaust system.
>
> I have the mounts that consist of the stainless tubes and my kit is one
> of the early kits. I have been concerned with the way the ends of two of
> the tubes are squashed flat and bent to a forty-five angle, but so far
> there have been no failures after 150 hrs. The later kits have a less
> drastic "squash" on the ends and I think they will hold up fine. It
> seems that the angle with which the hangers are installed on the motor
> mount is crucial to reliable service. It also seems that some particular
> engine installations just tend to break things, and possibly some of the
> failures have been on such installations.
>
> Keep in mind, regardless of what you have read on this list on the past
> couple of days, there have been few failures of the brackets on the
> hundreds of headers in service.
>
> Bill, I suggest that before you muddy the waters too much concerning
> exhaust systems that you hold your judgment until you have firsthand
> experience with the exhaust on an RV, preferably yours. There are
> newbies on the list that unfortunately swallow every bit of rumor and
> gossip they read from listers, and all of us have a great responsibility
> to write only concerning first hand experience.
>
> We are building experimental airplanes, and you can build the exhaust on
> your plane out of vacuum cleaner pipes for all I care, but I seriously
> doubt that you will match the quality of the Vetterman system for
> anywhere near the price, if at all. I suspect the big-buck Porsche
> headers would fail if they were hooked up to a non-too-well balanced 360
> ci four cylinder engine and subjected to several hundred hours of
> operation with no maintenance.
>
> Good luck with your project,
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ================
>
> Bill Shook wrote:
> >
> >
> > > Bill, I think you need to research what you say before you say it.
Yes
> > there
> > > have been failures reported in the supports but there have been very
few
> > > failures of the exhaust pipes themselves.
> >
> > If the support fails, the pipe cannot be too far behind....otherwise why
do
> > you need the support at all? Just because the support failures are
found
> > before the pipe fails doesn't mean it's not a problem.
> >
> > > Some people have had nothing but bad
> > > luck with the support brackets supplied by Larry while others have had
no
> > > problems at all. So without looking at each and every installation we
can
> > draw
> > > no conclusions from this thread.
> >
> > The only conclusion I've drawn is that I don't want a system in my plane
> > that has been shown to fail with some regularity. If you've been
reading
> > the list for the last few days you've heard several failures, multiple
> > failures and repeated failures of the same system. I don't like that,
and
> > yes I believe there are others out there who are more talented at design
and
> > welding.
> >
> > >
> > > Go ahead and have a specialty race shop build your pipes and I'll bet
they
> > will
> > > crack big time.
> >
> > I'll take that bet. Let's say loser buys the first round. You have
sixty
> > hours on your system....bet you lose before mine is even in the air
:-)
> >
> > > There is a big difference between our air cooled mostly
> > > aluminum engines and water cooled automobile racing engines. Expansion
and
> > > vibration are the death of aircraft exhaust.
> >
> > Ah, to quote you 'research what you say before you say it'. Porsche
race
> > engine = aluminum case, aluminum cylinders with nikasil coating,
aluminum
> > heads and pistons, turbo charged flat six, AIR COOLED with far less air
> > contact than the lycosaur, 450 hp at least and EGT's quickly exceeding
1300
> > under boost. You wanna see expansion and contraction? Watch the next
race
> > on speed vision. Watch that glowing red exhaust pipe run for 24 hours
> > through rain and sun while bouncing all over the track without cracking.
Do
> > not be fooled into believing the most talented fabricators are working
on
> > homebuilt exhaust systems.....that's just silly. Do you think the
vetterman
> > systems are made out of unobtanium? It's just stainless, it's just
> > welded.....there really isn't much more to it. Yes, some mild steel
sytems
> > have proven not to stand up....but build it out of the right materials,
with
> > a talented welder and you won't have any troubles.
> >
> > That's the joy of building your own plane.....you can do what you want.
> >
> > Bill
> > -4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust system failures |
Let me tell you about my exhaust failures. I to have one of
Larry Vetterman exhaust systems and have nothing but high
praise for it, The hangers a different story. I used .060
X 3/4 steel strips with one end attached to the cranck case
ant the other to the exhaust pipes mount. Mine kept breaking
at the crankcase. I carefully bent my hangers around a
hard wood dowel and debured the sides afterwards. 50 hours
later a crack in the same place. Hmmmm, went to a thicker
steel strip .090 this time. Same thing. I carefully examined
the case mounting holes and found a slight casting ride from
where the mounting holes were drilled. I'm pretty slow but
even this raised a flag. Casting ridge = stress riser=broken
exhaust support. I installed a washer or two between the
exhaust support and the case and Voila no cracks. BTW,
watch for sharp edges on your washers, they can cause
the same effect, Hope this helps
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM 1500+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronvandervort(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Left Mag...Slick...... |
Hello to all,
I have this question on the Slick ,Left Mag. for the 0-360-A1A;
1. How does one know which of the two possible (180) positions
to install the gear on a new mag...if one failed to note the position it was
in on the old mag?
THANKS,
Ron Vandervort
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
This seems to be a very thorny problem. I too, had to fabricate my own
system before Larry came out with one. I don't think I've ever seen one
that's as simple, and it works really well. On a 6A there are a few handy
engine mount tubes right where you need them. I mounted an Adel clamp to
the engine mount tube with a -3 bolt that attaches to the upper part of an
exhaust pipe hangar (automotive) "doughnut". I just went into a place that
does custom exhaust work and asked if I could look at all of their different
hangars. Of course they wanted to know what kind of car it was for and I
mumbled something about it being a custom one-off
"MasherOrotherRamblersomethin".
Anyway he led me to the inner sanctum and there must have been a hundred
different things. I picked one that is sort of an ellipse, all rubber,
about 4"x2.5"x1" thick. There are two holes, one near each long end. One
hole attaches to the Adel clamp at the engine mount tube and the other
attaches to an "L" made out of .125 aluminum angle. The other end of the
"L" is attached to the exhaust pipe with a SS worm clamp. This allows
movement in all directions, yet doesn't let it go too far. To keep the
pipes from moving sideways too much I attached a small piece of aluminum bar
stock between the pipes themselves.
The only problem I had was one worm clamp breaking, but I found that it
wasn't SS. With SS ones I haven't had any trouble in 350+ hours.
If anyone want to see it I can take a picture of it when I have the cowl off
for an oil change in a few weeks. I believe the guy said it was a Volvo
hangar.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
> Made up my own exhaust hangar system from steel (did the fwall forward
> before Larry came out with his hangar system) and it broke twice within 60
> hrs. Replaced it with the Vetterman system which made it about 20 hrs
before
> one of the bent pieces broke where it's flattened out, as did one of the
> adel clamps. Larry sent me replacements right away and that's been fine so
> far, except that after another 20 hrs or so, bot the adel clamps broke!
So
> just last night I replaced them with some S/S versions I made up, same
shape
> and size as the adel clamps, and using the rubber off the adel clamps.
Also
> this time I didn't use needle-nose vice-grips to hold the adel clamps
> together while bolting which could be part of the problem (nasty tooling
> marks/stress risers). We'll see how long this one lasts. Meantime I'm
> carrying plenty of replacement parts for this system in my onboard
tool-kit!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
>
>I have not yet seen his pipes, but I can tell you I've read a LOT of
>breakage reports on this list. I also believe Jon Johanson cracked some
>exhaust parts coming to Hawaii on his first trip (totally from
>memory....shoot me if I'm mistaken). There are several places I've had
>custom exhaust for race cars made near me....none of them has cracked or
>broken in anyway to my knowledge. Maybe I'll just have a set made locally
>when that time comes. Anyone else done this? It just doesn't seem like
>brain surgery to me.....other than hauling the fuse over there for the
>fitting.....
>
>Bill
Bill,
As far as I know, what few problems the Vetterman's exhaust system has is
in the hangers on the 6A. There have been very few actual exhaust problems
as far as cracking is concerned. If I remember correctly, Johanson has (or
had) an Allan Tolle system. These systems had a reputation of cracking the
pipes on cyl. #4. This problem was so well known that I sold a brand new,
unused Tolle system at a tremendous loss (the guy still owes me the freight
charge.) I wouldn't fly this system across the street, let alone across
the world. The difference between the Tolle system and the Vetterman is
that Larry will bend over backwards to make things right. Tolle pretty
much said, "tough". I really like Allan and his wife and they were among
the best sales reps (unofficial) that Van's ever had. But, their exhaust
systems were not near the quality of the Vetterman system.
I had no problems with the Vetteman system in 470 hours with the
exception of using stainless steel hose clamps. They just didn't last. I
changed over to heavier, steel muffler clamps and all problems stopped on
my six. The 6A mounting system is different than that of the six. Larry
will stand behind his system. I'm sure that builders will also come up
with some creative fixes. We had some clamp breakage problems on my friend
Charlie's 6A but I haven't heard of any recent problems. Grabbing the
exhaust outlets is probably a good idea when doing your pre=flight check.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: S/W Green death primer |
Ralph, just finished priming all my left wing parts, this time thinned the
green 2:1 rather than the 1.5:1 in the directions. It sprayed a lot easier,
atomized better, and dried faster. I wound up putting 2 coats on everything
just because I mixed up too much but it worked better than the 1.5:1
reccommended on the label. Also be sure to wear a respirator, that stuff is
pretty nasty.
Kevin Shannon
-9 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Shenk <dshenk(at)ruralhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Between seat console box.. |
I think it was Robert Greener in Boise Idaho. He had a center console
with power levers. I think I remember that his airplane was featured in
one of the major magazines (now my memory is showing it's strength) when
someone in the east bought it and flew it cross country. I think the
write up was about buying a homebuilt aircraft. This isn't much help
but might give you a lead. I'm thinking of trying a center armrest from
the elect. flap housing forward if I can figure out how to keep the
lower part open for leg room. Just a thought since I'm not quite far
enough along to sit in the fuse and do trial-fit engineering.
Doug Shenk RV6Aqb
John McMahon wrote:
>
> Does anyone remember some one with the drawings ,specs
> on a box assy between the seats of the rv-6 ..My old age
> is not helping much.....I did check the archive..
> Thanks
> John McMahon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)AOL.COM |
Ive got a rebuilt IO-320 E2A with Bendix Fuel injection and wood prop, idle
set at about 850 RPM. When I come back to idle quickly the engine usually
quits. If it doesn't quit it goes to about 450 RPM, then back to 850. If I
come back very slowly on the throttle to idle it works OK. This engine sat
for a while between purchase and first start up. It runs fine other than
that. Any suggestions?
Dave Beizer
RV6A DAR Inspection Tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
On the subject of exhaust systems. A excellent system can be purchased from
"Sky Dynamics Corp" in Moneta, Virginia. Most of the exhausts are aimed at
the competion aerobatic crowd. They are more expensive, take awhile to be
built, but I have never heard of any problems. The system on my "old" Laser
200 monoplane has over 400 hrs of +8, -5 g aerobatics........not one
problem. They offer both X-over and 4-1 exhausts ( 4-1 being the most
expensive). I do not see any mention of RV systems but they can build
anything you want, Glasair, Mustang II, Falco, Christen Eagle,
etc..etc...do have standard systems in there info pack.
Phone: 540-297-6754 not sure about a web site, might try a search.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Skydynamics exhaust |
www.skydynamics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Between seat console box.. |
John,
See Van's Airforce Tri-state Wing Newsletter (Jim Cone's fine
newsletter) April 1997.
Doug Gray
> Does anyone remember some one with the drawings ,specs
> on a box assy between the seats of the rv-6 ..My old age
> is not helping much.....I did check the archive..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
Jeff-
I've just been using a regular black Sharpie to label everything- cheap,
handy and simple. It shows through the primer (using Marhyde) and helps
to prevent putting on too much- if I can't see the marks, I'm using too
much primer. (and I don't worry about stress "rising" up to haunt me
later!)
From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A, FINALLY closing left wing, right skel almost done!
Jeff Point wrote:
>
>
> There doesn't seem to be much in the archives about this, so here goes:
> Would using an electric scriber on aluminum pieces to mark them prior to
> priming damage or weaken the pieces?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: idle problem |
Dave wrote:
>Ive got a rebuilt IO-320 E2A with Bendix Fuel injection and wood prop, idle
>set at about 850 RPM. When I come back to idle quickly the engine usually
>quits. If it doesn't quit it goes to about 450 RPM, then back to 850. If
>I
>come back very slowly on the throttle to idle it works OK. This engine sat
>for a while between purchase and first start up. It runs fine other than
>that. Any suggestions?
Dave
It sounds like your idle mixture adjustment is off
Have you checked it?
If not here is the procedure,
1- Run the engine until normal temps are attained
2- Bring the RPM to 900
3- Using the mixture control,go from full rich to cut-off in approx.
3 seconds
4- The results you are looking for is a rise of 10 to 25 RPM
5- No rise means too lean so you have to enrich the mixture
6- More than 25 RPM rise means too rich so you have to lean it
7- Important, if you have to check it a few time, since it's not easy
to see at first, you MUST run the engine to approx. 2000 RPM to
clear the engine before doing a second check.
8- The adjustement for the bendix system is on the same side as the
throttle control arm, look at the small wheel the info for which
way to turn it is on there.
Hope this helps and good luck
Alain Nantel(at)hotmail.com
RV-6 C-GGRS
90% done 90% to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator mounting orientation |
List:
I found that my Nippondenso alternator will mount satisfactorily
ONLY IF I use the smaller of the two alternator case mounting holes as the
primary mount at the engine block, and the larger for the adjustment arm.
In affect, I am rotating it 180 degrees.
Has anyone else done this with success or failure?
I'm beginning to realize that my alternator was made for a left side
mount and I am mounting it on the right (assuming the adjustment is oriented
at the top).
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
Lots of people have mentioned the sharpie pen method. For those of us that
etch the parts before priming it becomes a problem to try and keep track of
things like stiffeners and ribs since the etching process takes off
everything unless it's scribbed, punched or tagged in some way.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scribing aluminum
>
> Jeff-
>
> I've just been using a regular black Sharpie to label everything- cheap,
> handy and simple. It shows through the primer (using Marhyde) and helps
> to prevent putting on too much- if I can't see the marks, I'm using too
> much primer. (and I don't worry about stress "rising" up to haunt me
> later!)
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A, FINALLY closing left wing, right skel almost done!
>
>
> Jeff Point wrote:
> >
> >
> > There doesn't seem to be much in the archives about this, so here goes:
> > Would using an electric scriber on aluminum pieces to mark them prior to
> > priming damage or weaken the pieces?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust systems |
Chris & listers,
Sky Dynamics does indeed make a great product. Their web site is at
http://www.skydynamics.com/
Click on the link for their price schedule and you will in deed find 2 listings
for RVs
Charlie Kuss
> snipped
> On the subject of exhaust systems. A excellent system can be purchased from
> "Sky Dynamics Corp" in Moneta, Virginia. Most of the exhausts are aimed at
> the competion aerobatic crowd. They are more expensive, take awhile to be
> built, but I have never heard of any problems. The system on my "old" Laser
> 200 monoplane has over 400 hrs of +8, -5 g aerobatics........not one
> problem. They offer both X-over and 4-1 exhausts ( 4-1 being the most
> expensive). I do not see any mention of RV systems snipped
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
Lots of people have mentioned the sharpie pen method. For those of us that
etch the parts before priming it becomes a problem to try and keep track of
things like stiffeners and ribs since the etching process takes off
everything unless it's scribbed, punched or tagged in some way.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scribing aluminum
>
> Jeff-
>
> I've just been using a regular black Sharpie to label everything- cheap,
> handy and simple. It shows through the primer (using Marhyde) and helps
> to prevent putting on too much- if I can't see the marks, I'm using too
> much primer. (and I don't worry about stress "rising" up to haunt me
> later!)
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A, FINALLY closing left wing, right skel almost done!
>
>
> Jeff Point wrote:
> >
> >
> > There doesn't seem to be much in the archives about this, so here goes:
> > Would using an electric scriber on aluminum pieces to mark them prior to
> > priming damage or weaken the pieces?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXP-2V load center |
That is only with the internal relay. Go with the external master solenoid
and you can get 60 amps.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM <VP4SkyDoc(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Thursday, June 29, 2000 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EXP-2V load center
>
>In a message dated 6/29/2000 8:03:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>gyachts(at)kans.com writes:
>
>> Allot has changed in the product since the archive conversations. I
would
>> call the company and ask for builders names and phone numbers that have
>used
>> the system and ask them. I have worked on three other projects with
guys
>> that used the Exp-2, the last one a tray version with rockers. It not
only
>> saved time and made a neat install but gave some neat features that
would
>> have been troublesome to do otherwise. And if you want a neat gadget
look
>> at their Anywhere Map GPS product. Beats a Garmin 295 for less money.
>>
>
>I have been looking at the EXP-2V for a while and would love to install it.
>The problem is that max current is limited to 40A and that just won't be
>enough with my all electric plane.
>
>Dave Leonard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
The term "scribing" in the context of an "electrical pencil" is misapplied.
Scribing consists of scoring a metal face with a sharp-pointed instrument, a
scriber. The scoring action creates a Vee grove which has sharp raised
edges due to the displaced metal and a sharp Vee in the bottom. Such edges
are the locii of fatigue failure sites. The stress varies something like
inverse square of radius -- that means that sharp points have lots of
stress!
My Wen "electric pencil" has a sharp tip with a finite radius -- a little
ball on the end. It acts like a Rockwell hardness depression tester in that
it pounds little dimples into the metal as it is dragged along to form an
identification. The action of marking is more like local shot peening than
scoring or scribing. I consider it a safe way to identify parts.
Dennis Persyk 6A FWF getting closer
Hampshire, IL C38
>> >
>> > There doesn't seem to be much in the archives about this, so here goes:
>> > Would using an electric scriber on aluminum pieces to mark them prior
to
>> > priming damage or weaken the pieces?
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
Listers -
If you are going to prime all your parts then do all the parts BEFORE
you cut , mark, or drill them. It won't matter which part goes where and
when you do start marking with your Sharpie pen the primer will hold the
lines better. There will be less 'hangar rash' on a primered part too. When
you have the part completed then you will only need a little touch up primer
on the machined areas to final finish your parts.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel(at)edge.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scribing aluminum
>
> Jeff-
>
> I've just been using a regular black Sharpie to label everything- cheap,
> handy and simple. It shows through the primer (using Marhyde) and helps
> to prevent putting on too much- if I can't see the marks, I'm using too
> much primer. (and I don't worry about stress "rising" up to haunt me
> later!)
>
> From the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A, FINALLY closing left wing, right skel almost done!
>
>
> Jeff Point wrote:
> >
> >
> > There doesn't seem to be much in the archives about this, so here goes:
> > Would using an electric scriber on aluminum pieces to mark them prior to
> > priming damage or weaken the pieces?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Products.. |
not there yet but thanx for the info. i will store it. bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust system failures |
Your story highlights the many variables that go into the ideal exhaust
system mounting equation. Vibration is, of course, the culprit. The
exhaust system is like the tail on a dog that has just got done with a swim!
Only the exhaust system wags up to 2700 times a minute (3500 if you are one
of them racers!). The design of mount brackets that last might take a few
more years and it might be different for different engines, flight profiles,
installation techniques etc.
Seems to me the design should attach securely to the pipe. Due to the heat,
it needs to use appropriate materials. The vibration absorber might need to
be metallic such as springs or springy brackets. If rubber or similar
materials are chosen, I wonder if there are some that are better at enduring
heat?
As I assembled my system, I wondered why the pipes that are being vibrated
by the engine are attached to the engine mount rather than the engine. Or
did I do it wrong?
To the tune of "My Darling Clementine".......
Put it on and take it off and put it on for one more try, I'm afraid we'll
both be worn out 'fore we ever get to fly.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 9:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust system failures
>
> Let me tell you about my exhaust failures. I to have one of
> Larry Vetterman exhaust systems and have nothing but high
> praise for it, The hangers a different story. I used .060
> X 3/4 steel strips with one end attached to the cranck case
> ant the other to the exhaust pipes mount. Mine kept breaking
> at the crankcase. I carefully bent my hangers around a
> hard wood dowel and debured the sides afterwards. 50 hours
> later a crack in the same place. Hmmmm, went to a thicker
> steel strip .090 this time. Same thing. I carefully examined
> the case mounting holes and found a slight casting ride from
> where the mounting holes were drilled. I'm pretty slow but
> even this raised a flag. Casting ridge = stress riser=broken
> exhaust support. I installed a washer or two between the
> exhaust support and the case and Voila no cracks. BTW,
> watch for sharp edges on your washers, they can cause
> the same effect, Hope this helps
> Tom McIntyre
> RV3 978TM 1500+ hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pumbaa" <pumbaa(at)bestnet.org> |
Hello everyone,
I just received my 6 tail kit a couple of weeks ago. Just wanted to let you
know your input to the archives was invaluable to help me tool up. Its great
to be starting.
Tad Nelson
Dundas, Ontario
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | For Sale Lyc. 0-235-L2C. |
This is going into our chapter newsletter this week. Thought I would give
you guys first crack.
Cecil Hatfield
I have my Long-EZ engine for sale. The engine that I am selling is a Lyc.
0-235-L2C. Has 2200HR on it. Just took out of my Long-EZ. Still runs
good. It is a certified engine. Has engine log book. Asking price
$3500.00. Thank You John Fisher. (805) 964-1655.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Between seat console box.. Center Console |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Hey John,
Pulled out some of the old tri-state newsletters. Couldn't find the story on
Jim's console, but found a story on another version which looks pretty good.
The contact for plans is Oz Beckham, 102 Brentwood Road, Morton, IL 61550.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Between seat console box..
>Date: Fri, Jun 30, 2000, 9:33 PM
>
>
> Does anyone remember some one with the drawings ,specs
> on a box assy between the seats of the rv-6 ..My old age
> is not helping much.....I did check the archive..
> Thanks
> John McMahon
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Products.. |
KURT CALL HIM AT 011442392473945 TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Support Failures |
My exhaust system is now nine years old, an Allen Tolle cross- over and this
is my story.
The initial installation was done without any support for the tail pipes,
and developed a small crack in one of the welds at around fifty hours. This
is the only crack I have had. Because of this crack tried supporting the
tail pipes to the engine mount, should have known better. " If you have ever
watched a Dyno-focal mounted engine start up with the cowlings off you
realize how much movement there is between the engine and the mount. " These
supports broke in short order.
Realizing that the engine, exhaust system and supports have to be as a
single unit went to .063 4130 straps 3/4 inch wide attached to the sump
bolts directly above the tail pipes and then sloped back at approx 45
degrees picking up the tail pipes with a band of thin 4130 about 1 1/2
inches wide wrapped around the tail pipe on one side and a band of aluminum
around the heat muff on the other side with a bolt through the strap. This
requires the strap to be twisted 90 degrees to drop in between the two ends
of the wrap around.
Had the sump end of a strap break off at around 200 hrs. , have doubled up
on the end that bolts to the sump for about 2 1/2 inches welding just the
edges together and have had no trouble since.
I have purchased Larry's system for the 6A, looks top drawer and hope I can
brace them in a similar manner realizing that it will probably be a whole
new ball game.
The bottom line for me is take a good look at each oil change, if a strap
breaks you are looking at about 1 1/2 hours to make a new one.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
Eustace and Hal: I have watched this discussion for about a week now on the
failure of the exhaust system brackets. I have been through this on my last
two home builts, one a Midget Mustang and the second a RV-6. Maybe the list
will listen to you because of your sonority. My last RV-6 I had Toole pipes
and they started to crack after about 40 hours. They were cracking at the
base of the cylinder flange. I welded a gusset to each cylinder pipe, no
more trouble after 400 hours. The most important thing that has been said
on this matter is that the pipes need to be supported in the same plane as
the engine. As you discussed the engine really shakes on start up. I have
a set vettermans new pipes on my RV-6A project with the method of securing
the pipes with a H shape mounting with lots of rubber support between
brackets. I am going to try this for a while an see if they crack the
brackets. If they crack I will go back to the mounting system I used with
success on my previous project. This system was simple at lot like the twin
Comanche uses. It uses 303 hose material with a brass fitting on each end
for attaching to the pipe and the engine. Works great and simple. Thanks
again for your advice for the young RV's who have not made the big plunge
yet.
Thanks
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A - Engine stuff
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 6:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust Support Failures
>
> My exhaust system is now nine years old, an Allen Tolle cross- over and
this
> is my story.
>
> The initial installation was done without any support for the tail pipes,
> and developed a small crack in one of the welds at around fifty hours.
This
> is the only crack I have had. Because of this crack tried supporting the
> tail pipes to the engine mount, should have known better. " If you have
ever
> watched a Dyno-focal mounted engine start up with the cowlings off you
> realize how much movement there is between the engine and the mount. "
These
> supports broke in short order.
>
> Realizing that the engine, exhaust system and supports have to be as a
> single unit went to .063 4130 straps 3/4 inch wide attached to the sump
> bolts directly above the tail pipes and then sloped back at approx 45
> degrees picking up the tail pipes with a band of thin 4130 about 1 1/2
> inches wide wrapped around the tail pipe on one side and a band of
aluminum
> around the heat muff on the other side with a bolt through the strap. This
> requires the strap to be twisted 90 degrees to drop in between the two
ends
> of the wrap around.
>
> Had the sump end of a strap break off at around 200 hrs. , have doubled up
> on the end that bolts to the sump for about 2 1/2 inches welding just the
> edges together and have had no trouble since.
>
> I have purchased Larry's system for the 6A, looks top drawer and hope I
can
> brace them in a similar manner realizing that it will probably be a whole
> new ball game.
>
> The bottom line for me is take a good look at each oil change, if a strap
> breaks you are looking at about 1 1/2 hours to make a new one.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Access Plate Sealing |
George Orndorf in his wing construction video mentions Tite Seal as the
sealant for the tank access plate.
In searching the archives I found only one reference to Tite Seal. It
was very positive by someone who said he had used it for all sorts of
fuel line and tank sealing for 25 years. The majority of comments on
sealing the access plate were for Pro Seal both with and without the
gasket. Some indicated no problem in re-opening the access plate after
sealing with Pro Seal.
I would be interested in any experiences with Tite Seal for the access
plate, good or bad. After viewing the videos, I purchased Tite Seal. I
will have to decide soon whether or not to use it or to just go ahead
with the Pro Seal (actually, it is the newer material per Mil S 8802F).
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
RV-6A
Wings (tanks)
Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Access Plate Sealing |
George Orndorf in his wing construction video mentions Tite Seal as the
sealant for the tank access plate.
In searching the archives I found only one reference to Tite Seal. It
was very positive by someone who said he had used it for all sorts of
fuel line and tank sealing for 25 years. The majority of comments on
sealing the access plate were for Pro Seal both with and without the
gasket. Some indicated no problem in re-opening the access plate after
sealing with Pro Seal.
I would be interested in any experiences with Tite Seal for the access
plate, good or bad. After viewing the videos, I purchased Tite Seal. I
will have to decide soon whether or not to use it or to just go ahead
with the Pro Seal (actually, it is the newer material per Mil S 8802F).
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
RV-6A
Wings (tanks)
Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: S/W Green death primer |
When I picked up my S/W primer the fella behind the counter said to ignore
the mixing instructions of 1.5:1 and use 2:1. From my experience he was
right.
Paul VS
> Ralph, just finished priming all my left wing parts, this time thinned the
> green 2:1 rather than the 1.5:1 in the directions. It sprayed a lot
easier,
> atomized better, and dried faster. I wound up putting 2 coats on
everything
> just because I mixed up too much but it worked better than the 1.5:1
> reccommended on the label. Also be sure to wear a respirator, that stuff
is
> pretty nasty.
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Browne" <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Firewall |
Oops,
Sorry - it's called FireWall 2000 and it is on page 123 of the ACS catalog.
Chris Browne
-6A Finish
Atlanta
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 1:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing Firewall
>
> > The 3M product is called Fire Barrier 2000. ACS has it, but if you can
> > find a 3M Fire Protection Product outlet, you will save alot of money.
>
> I can't find this in ACS's huge book. Does any one know what page it's on?
I
> would like to buy some.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
Hola Larry, all,
Thanks to all for your responses/help. They were, well, responsive, and
helpful.
This morning I did what I should have done from the beginning: do the
experiment (as several people suggested). So I got some scrap aluminum
and countersunk to different depths and riveted, and then did things like
cut the joint apart, tear the pieces of metal apart, etc. I also sat down
and tried to think about it more clearly. These are my conclusions; note
that most of these are exactly what people told me:
- I was not dimpling aggressively enough. That is, I left too much space
between the dies in the squeezer, and the dimple was not fully formed.
I believe this led to the dimple not sitting quite flush with the
countersink.
- Countersunk holes that were too deep allowed the thinner metal to spin
around the rivet. When torn apart, the thin metal tore completely away
from the rivet -- no thin metal remained underneath.
- Rivets will expand in the hole to fill in the gaps. Sometimes, however,
this lifts the thin dimple up away from the countersink, leading to
the behavior in the previous point. Back-riveting seemed to exacerbate
this phenomenon.
- A countersink a little bit larger than the rivet head leads to a strong
joint, such that when the two pieces of metal are torn apart, the
thin piece tears around the rivet head; a ring of the thinner metal
remains underneath the rivet, still solidly attached.
- With a little sketch (and a little geometry) I was able to convince
myself that the countersunk hole should be deeper by about the
thickness of the dimpled material divided by the square root of two,
for a 100 degree countersink. That is, if a rivet is placed in the
countersunk hole, the distance between the top of the rivet and the
top of the hole should be about 70%-75% of the thickness of the
dimpled metal (i.e. around .0225 inches for .032 sheet).
Anyways, I decided that I did it more or less right (surprise!) -- the
holes are probably a little too deep, but not so deep as to seriously
compromise the strength of the joint. I was planning on ordering new
parts this morning, but now I'm confident it'll be fine.
By the way, I'd like to apologize in advance for all the moronic questions
I plan on asking over the next few years. I promised myself that I wasn't
going to make any assumptions -- my normal idiom of stumbling around with
no real idea of what I'm doing is tempered by the knowledge that flying is
most unforgiving of bad assumptions.
-Steve
On Thu, 29 Jun 2000, Larry Pardue wrote:
> >
> >When attaching a thin piece of aluminum to a think piece using a flush
> >rivet, the thin piece is dimpled and the thick piece is countersunk.
> >My question is: How deeply should the thick piece be countersunk?
> >
> >In a brilliant display of ignorance I kept countersinking until the thin
> >piece laid flush with the thick piece. The dimple angle is different than
> >the countersunk angle, however,
>
> In this situation I found it was helpful to have a small test piece of
> the thin material. Drill a hole in the test piece and dimple it. Now
> machine countersink until the test piece fits flush.
>
> It sounds kind of like you did that with the actual pieces though and it
> did not work. Why is the dimple angle different than the countersink
> angle? I think they should be the same.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Between seat console box.. |
I am somewhat in the midst of this.
Been working on it on and off for months (it has been a diversion from other
more pressing matters in the past line canopy).
I have seen a few pictures and have talked to a few people working on this
type setup and from this came up with my own "design". I have since had a
friend "implement" Version 0.1 of this design in CAD and just received the
first pieces made by a close-by metal shop.
It is a combo center console/arm rest/ throttle quadrant.
It is designed for the Vans 3-lever quadrant but I have also purchased the
Beechhurst quadrant (nice, even though several $$ more than Vans ;-) ). The
current design could be modified to accomodate the Beechhurst [I think] and
I may even do that some day.
The above is the good news. Now the not so good news ... it doesn't work
yet. I have not finished and am sorting out things like eliminating
interference with fuel line routing and throttle cable routing and getting
comfortable with theeverything being WELL anchored..
Therefore I too would like to receive info from or chat (off-list) with,
anyone who has solved the problems.
James
Really need to be getting this thing on its gear!!!
p.s. My goal was to have a system that was documented well enough that one
could even install it in a finished RV6(A) without much trouble.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John McMahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 10:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Between seat console box..
>
> Does anyone remember some one with the drawings ,specs
> on a box assy between the seats of the rv-6 ..My old age
> is not helping much.....I did check the archive..
> Thanks
> John McMahon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator bracket & ND alternator |
Tom,
I had the same thing happen. The bracket kit from Van's is made for the 35
amp alternator. I have a 60 Amp because I am running full IFR. All I did
was go down to an automotive alternaotr shop and get an extension piece.
Worked out great so far.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Alternator bracket & ND alternator
>Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 21:06:33 -0500
>
>
>List:
> I just received from Van's an alternator bracket kit (made of bent
>steel) and when I made a trial fit of my (used Honda Civic Nippondenso)
>alternator, I found that the adjustment arm doesn't reach around the
>alternator far enough to mate up with the attachment hole. I'm concerned
>that maybe my alternator is too large physically or maybe because of the
>orientation of the mounts, this is not one of the suitable alternator
>models. Another possibility is that Van's bracket is too short. It is
>bent
>and adjustable from approx 5 3/4 - 7".
> I also noticed that the "B" lead out of the alternator will be very
>close to the engine case; and noticed that the unit fits better if turned
>180 degrees and mounted up side down - with the adjustment arm bolting up
>with the 2 1/4" wide mount (totally unacceptable).
> I would like to know if someone else has experienced this.
>Thanks.
>Tom Barnes -6 finishing O-360 A1A, cs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | STUVANDYKE(at)AOL.COM |
I would like to resubscribe to the RV-6 list. I believe I was dropped during
a time when I could not empty or check my mailbox. Thank you, Stu Van Dyke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | rv-list: Exhaust Support Failures |
Since I started this thread maybe I can help bring it to a close without fueling
the fire any hotter.
I received my new support brackets from Larry just two days after I called him.
The new mounting system uses thicker hose that seems more pliable. Maybe this
will help to absorb the vibrations better. The brackets that clamp around
the exhaust pipe are longer with the ends bend toward each other so as to eliminate
the need for the bent tubing pieces. The flattened tubing pieces are slightly
different as well. Larry mentioned to me on the telephone that originally,
he contracted out to someone else to make the hangers. Larry thought that
they were squeezed too tight. He didn't want to get into the business of making
the hangers but felt he had to because of the reports of broken hangers that
he was receiving. The new tubes are not squeezed as sever as the older ones.
In any event, I put on the new system and went flying. Time will tell whether
this will last longer than the first set. I cannot fault Larry or his exhaust
system. To me, they are both first class. He is now working to make the hanger
system first class as well.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (14.0 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access Plate Sealing |
>
>George Orndorf in his wing construction video mentions Tite Seal as the
>sealant for the tank access plate.
>In searching the archives I found only one reference to Tite Seal. It
>was very positive by someone who said he had used it for all sorts of
>fuel line and tank sealing for 25 years. The majority of comments on
>sealing the access plate were for Pro Seal both with and without the
>gasket. Some indicated no problem in re-opening the access plate after
>sealing with Pro Seal.
>I would be interested in any experiences with Tite Seal for the access
>plate, good or bad. After viewing the videos, I purchased Tite Seal. I
>will have to decide soon whether or not to use it or to just go ahead
>with the Pro Seal (actually, it is the newer material per Mil S 8802F).
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Richard Dudley
>RV-6A
>Wings (tanks)
>Orlando
Richard,
After using the cork gaskets and hylomar gasket dressing....I will NOT do
the same again! Leaks o'plenty. I trashed the cork gaskets, cleaned the
area with lacquer thinner and prosealed the covers on. NO more leaks. Nuff
said.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
108 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Products.. |
KURT,
Andair products are far superior to anything on the market. I also recommend
calling them directly or go thru Spruce and let them take care of your
problems. Your other alternative is to buy junk and then live with it.
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Products.. |
Undoubtedly Andair fuel valves are quite good products, but they are not the
only quality valves on the market. Look at the Allen valves (ACS page156) -
I replaced the brass valve supplied by VAN with an Allen and can't be
happier...it is velvety smooth, and very positive detents when moving
it...also low force needed to change it. The VAN-supplied one was so
indefinite as to where the detent was that one pilot I talked to said he
would never switch tanks unless he was directly over an airport!
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
Hi Matthew,
>
> I went through this myself- the initial advice I had been given was to
> countersink so that a flush rivet placed in the hole in the countersunk
> material would sit just flush with the surface. Another way to say this
> would be to countersink as if the thin dimpled material wasn't there.
>
> ...
>
> where you couldn't see it. The best-looking joint was made with the
> countersink the same size as the rivet head, just like I had been told, or
> to maybe go a max of .005 deeper.
Well, after reading your post again late last night (bad idea), I started
thinking about it again (mistake), lay awake half the night (rivet
anxiety), and decided my earlier reasoning was total crap (argh). Today I
countersunk two holes to flush rivet depth, and again riveted a dimpled
piece to it. I found that it left a slight gap between the top and bottom
pieces, in the space between the two rivets. The size of the gap was
maybe 50%-75% of the material thickness (measured using the sophisticated
"eyeball and caliper" method).
I also found that the rivet joints were very strong, making the pieces
difficult to tear apart, and again leaving metal underneath the rivet.
I then drew another picture and convinced myself that the correct (in
the sense that the two pieces of metal will lie flat on each other) size
was flush rivet depth plus about 40% of the dimpled material thickness
(not the 70%-75% I said earlier).
So, my new and improved and probably wrong conclusions are that the
countersunk hole should be flush rivet depth plus a little bit, but it
doesn't have to be much.
Of course, this is, for all practical purposes, what everybody has already
told me. Did I mention that I had this new idea for a device that is
round and rolls downhill for long distances, and with a stick in the
middle can be used to carry things without much effort? I think it will
be quite a useful invention; if only I could think of a name for it...
(Thanks to all, again)
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk hole with a dimple on top |
> Did I mention that I had this new idea for a device that is
> round and rolls downhill for long distances, and with a stick in the
> middle can be used to carry things without much effort? I think it will
> be quite a useful invention; if only I could think of a name for it...
>
Hey, call it a rolling assistance apparatus. Better yet, a downhill
friction decreasing doomahicky. :-)
another engineer with not much to do on a sunday. Guess I'll go play on the
plane.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | suddenly lead fouling problems |
Looking for some wisdom from the long time Lycoming operators. This is my
first Lyc., the Continentals I've had in the 150 and 182's I never saw lead
deposits. I seem to have developed in a short time a tendency to lead foul
plugs.
RV-4, O-320-E2G (150 HP) with REM40 plugs. #3 and 4 are getting the brunt
of it with #3 being the worse on deposits and #4 has the insulators looking
unusually black. On both it's worse on the bottom plugs. Oil consumption
is about 1 qt in 20 hours.
I don't think I'm running it any differently than the last 60 hours I've
put on the plane with the exception that the prop I just installed is much
more of a cruise prop (71x72 Warnke). I get 2550 at 7500' flat out. I
normally lean it out at altitude by watching the rpm (I don't have an
EGT). The single CHT I have on the bottom of #3 runs as high as 460 on
climbout (on a hot day from sea level) and will settle in to about 390-410,
level, with full power. The run I made yesterday from Seattle to Portland
at 7500' saw the CHT settle at around 375, leaned. It started running
rough and then spent the night in Scappoose because I thought I had lost a
cylinder. Before I pulled the plugs and found the problem, it would go
full power on run up while it was cold but by the time I taxied to the
other end of the runway and did a full power run up I would start loosing a
cylinder again. To me it sounded like a valve sticking. This morning,
using a piece of safety wire I cleaned a lot of carbon and lead out of the
plugs. Tried it out and flew it home without a hint of misfire. I also
kept the temp under 420 the whole way home.
Is lead fouling a function of running too hot or too cold or too rich or
? I know it's too low compression for the 100LL we have here but not much
I can do about that unless I switch to mogas.
I am pleased that it was only the plugs but this is a habit I don't want to
start. It's been suggested that I should try some Alcor additive and the
next hotter plug.
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV
A ship in port is safe but that's not what ships are for.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Access Plate Sealing |
Am I the only one using fuel-lube on the cork gasket? It passed the balloon
and soapy water test, but I'm a ways away from putting fuel in the tanks. I
had to open the tanks back up to do the anti-rotation brakets. It was not a
problem -- less of a hassle than if I had prosealed them.....but who cares
if they are going to leak. Raise your hand if you've successfully used fuel
lube and cork.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings/fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
After using the cork gaskets and hylomar gasket dressing....I will NOT do
the same again! Leaks o'plenty. I trashed the cork gaskets, cleaned the
area with lacquer thinner and prosealed the covers on. NO more leaks. Nuff
said.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
108 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Access Plate Sealing |
Many times in helicopters.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access Plate Sealing
>
> Am I the only one using fuel-lube on the cork gasket? It passed the
balloon
> and soapy water test, but I'm a ways away from putting fuel in the tanks.
I
> had to open the tanks back up to do the anti-rotation brakets. It was not
a
> problem -- less of a hassle than if I had prosealed them.....but who cares
> if they are going to leak. Raise your hand if you've successfully used
fuel
> lube and cork.
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 wings/fuse
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
>
> After using the cork gaskets and hylomar gasket dressing....I will NOT do
> the same again! Leaks o'plenty. I trashed the cork gaskets, cleaned the
> area with lacquer thinner and prosealed the covers on. NO more leaks. Nuff
> said.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 108 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Anderson" <dlanderson69(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to seal up fuel line connections |
>Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons
>Are cone washers approved for this type of application? George Stanley
"Conical seals" (at least that's what we call 'em) are commonly used on AN
flare fittings on the F-16 and its Pratt & Whitney F100-220 engine. I got
lucky on a web search.
Here's a site and info: http://www.ap100.com/
SECO presents
the 37 degree Flared Fitting Seal
The Seal is :
A soft, malleable crush washer designed for MS, AN, and JIC standard 37
degree flared fitting assemblies.
The Seals Purpose Is:
To provide a lower yield gasket material to the interface
periphery at time of torque-up. It is designed to take-up for
the minute imperfections that will occur to the fitting and tubes
mating surfaces during manufacture and installation processing.
The Seal Will:
Reduce stress in the individual piece parts of the flared fitting
assembly (fitting-tube-sleeve-"B" nut).
Prevent dishing or crushing of the 37 degree flared fittings nd
tubes sealing surfaces.
Allow the installer to re-use the original equipment hardware
repeatedly, in maintenance and overhaul applications.
Will reduce the amount of torque required to affect the "yield to
seal" principle.
Will greatly reduce the high cost of replacement parts.
Will cut down on operational equipment " down time".
Require no assembly part number change.
The Seals Materials Are:
Aluminum
Copper
Nickel
The Seals Sizes Are:
1/8" thru 3" (-2 thru -48)
Darrell Anderson
RV-4, closing wings
Montana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Firewall sealing |
Thanks for all the responses, think I'll give the 3M fire barrier a try, have
not been too thrilled with RTV either. Totally amazed at how many wires
there are in a relatively simple VFR panel!!
Warren Moore
RV4 - getting there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | rv6 fusealage kit |
bundle spacers 6/6a 48" 250 or 96" 125 1 1/2 are these aluminum bar stock
for spacing the f604 bulkhead. anybody been there done that? what else would
they be for? thanks j.f.mcnulty mcnu93945(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to seal up fuel line connections |
Listers:
These are available from Aircraft Spruce, DEL fitting seals. I have used them
during the assembly of my -4.
Dave Aronson
N504RV FWFF(firewall foreward finally)
"D. Anderson" wrote:
>
> >Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons
>
>
> >Are cone washers approved for this type of application? George Stanley
>
> "Conical seals" (at least that's what we call 'em) are commonly used on AN
> flare fittings on the F-16 and its Pratt & Whitney F100-220 engine. I got
> lucky on a web search.
>
> Here's a site and info: http://www.ap100.com/
>
> SECO presents
> the 37 degree Flared Fitting Seal
>
> The Seal is :
>
> A soft, malleable crush washer designed for MS, AN, and JIC standard 37
> degree flared fitting assemblies.
> The Seals Purpose Is:
>
> To provide a lower yield gasket material to the interface
> periphery at time of torque-up. It is designed to take-up for
> the minute imperfections that will occur to the fitting and tubes
> mating surfaces during manufacture and installation processing.
>
> The Seal Will:
>
> Reduce stress in the individual piece parts of the flared fitting
> assembly (fitting-tube-sleeve-"B" nut).
> Prevent dishing or crushing of the 37 degree flared fittings nd
> tubes sealing surfaces.
> Allow the installer to re-use the original equipment hardware
> repeatedly, in maintenance and overhaul applications.
> Will reduce the amount of torque required to affect the "yield to
> seal" principle.
> Will greatly reduce the high cost of replacement parts.
>
> Will cut down on operational equipment " down time".
>
> Require no assembly part number change.
> The Seals Materials Are:
>
> Aluminum
> Copper
> Nickel
> The Seals Sizes Are:
>
> 1/8" thru 3" (-2 thru -48)
>
> Darrell Anderson
> RV-4, closing wings
> Montana
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Bob.. the URL you showed is bogus...
>Dennis Douglas
Oops . . . was logged into the hard-drive version when I
captured the URL to my clipboard. You can find it on my website
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
Thanks for the heads up!
>"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>> >Amp makes a tool available through Newark Electronics or you can order
>> >direct from Amp on their web page. I recall that both of these connectors
>> >take the same crimper. It's called a Service Tool II but I don't have a
>> >part number.
>>
>> I was going to stock this tool . . . tried to order a couple
>> dozen and was informed that AMP has discontinued it. It was
>> one of best values around in a low-cost open-barrel crimper.
>> Very well made compared to some of the tools I've been evaluating
>> over the past month.
>>
>> We've finally decided on one and have inquiries out to
>> several warehouses that stock them. See how it works at:
>>
>> file:///D|/0_WEBSIT/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
>>
>> I hope to put this tool in our website catalog for about the
>> same price as what the Service Tool II would have cost.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Koger <kogrh(at)willinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re-subscribe |
>
>I would like to resubscribe to the RV-6 list. I believe I was dropped
during
>a time when I could not empty or check my mailbox. Thank you, Stu Van Dyke
>Get back on Stu!!! You will have to got to the subscribe site to get the
list coming your way again. Good to get your note. Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: suddenly lead fouling problems |
Michael
This may be an apples and oranges comparison but maybe there's
someting to be learned from it. I live in California where the av-
gas has more addatives in it than the politicians. I noticed the
same problem after hundreds of trouble free hours. 160hp
swinging a fixed pitch prop. I changed three things at once.
First I switched from brand A to brand B avgas, second I
went from REM38E plugs to REM37BY (extended nose)
plugs gapped at .016 and last I started using TCP. Problem
gone. Trouble is I dont know if it was one or all of the above.
Good Luck
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM 1500+ hours
Michael McGee wrote:
>
> Looking for some wisdom from the long time Lycoming operators. This is my
> first Lyc., the Continentals I've had in the 150 and 182's I never saw lead
> deposits. I seem to have developed in a short time a tendency to lead foul
> plugs.
>
> RV-4, O-320-E2G (150 HP) with REM40 plugs. #3 and 4 are getting the brunt
> of it with #3 being the worse on deposits and #4 has the insulators looking
> unusually black. On both it's worse on the bottom plugs. Oil consumption
> is about 1 qt in 20 hours.
>
> I don't think I'm running it any differently than the last 60 hours I've
> put on the plane with the exception that the prop I just installed is much
> more of a cruise prop (71x72 Warnke). I get 2550 at 7500' flat out. I
> normally lean it out at altitude by watching the rpm (I don't have an
> EGT). The single CHT I have on the bottom of #3 runs as high as 460 on
> climbout (on a hot day from sea level) and will settle in to about 390-410,
> level, with full power. The run I made yesterday from Seattle to Portland
> at 7500' saw the CHT settle at around 375, leaned. It started running
> rough and then spent the night in Scappoose because I thought I had lost a
> cylinder. Before I pulled the plugs and found the problem, it would go
> full power on run up while it was cold but by the time I taxied to the
> other end of the runway and did a full power run up I would start loosing a
> cylinder again. To me it sounded like a valve sticking. This morning,
> using a piece of safety wire I cleaned a lot of carbon and lead out of the
> plugs. Tried it out and flew it home without a hint of misfire. I also
> kept the temp under 420 the whole way home.
>
> Is lead fouling a function of running too hot or too cold or too rich or
> ? I know it's too low compression for the 100LL we have here but not much
> I can do about that unless I switch to mogas.
>
> I am pleased that it was only the plugs but this is a habit I don't want to
> start. It's been suggested that I should try some Alcor additive and the
> next hotter plug.
>
> Can anyone shed some light on this?
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike
> Mike McGee jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com RV-4: N996RV
> A ship in port is safe but that's not what ships are for.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 fusealage kit |
> bundle spacers 6/6a 48" 250 or 96" 125 1 1/2 are these aluminum bar
stock
> for spacing the f604 bulkhead. anybody been there done that? what else
would
> they be for? thanks j.f.mcnulty mcnu93945(at)aol.com
Yes and fitting the tip up canopy frame.......Norman.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv6 fusealage kit |
--- Mcnu93945(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> bundle spacers 6/6a 48" 250 or 96" 125 1 1/2 are these aluminum
> bar stock
> for spacing the f604 bulkhead. anybody been there done that? what
> else would
> they be for? thanks j.f.mcnulty mcnu93945(at)aol.com
Been there recently but I don't remember any bar stock 48" and 96"...
Angle, yes.
There was a bundle of bar stock a couple of inches wide, about six
inches long and many pieces in several thicknesses, one of which is the
1/4" you need for the 604 spacer at the seat belt anchor spar (for want
of plans and other descriptive wording). I just cut what I needed.
Good Luck!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Tad,
Congratulations - you have embarked on a great learning and most of the time
fun experience, plus you'll have a time machine in the end.
Remember the key is to work atleast a little each day, even if it's only
reading the manual. Also keep your personal life in balance. I'd also
suggest finding 1 or 2 people to share the building with (even if they are
only occassional helpers).
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A ( finishing wiring in the hangar)
Niantic, CT (Westerly, RI)
>From: "pumbaa" <pumbaa(at)bestnet.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: New Builder
>Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 16:23:45 -0400
>
>
>Hello everyone,
>I just received my 6 tail kit a couple of weeks ago. Just wanted to let you
>know your input to the archives was invaluable to help me tool up. Its
>great
>to be starting.
>Tad Nelson
>Dundas, Ontario
>Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
I've checked the archives, but did not see any posting on RV-8A tow bars.We
could use any suggestions.
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV8A (wiring)
Niantic, CT (Westerly, RI)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Access Plate Sealing |
I used Fuel Lube too but I'm in the same boat as you. Haven't put gas in
the tanks yet.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 4:45 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access Plate Sealing
Am I the only one using fuel-lube on the cork gasket? It
passed the balloon
and soapy water test, but I'm a ways away from putting fuel
in the tanks. I
had to open the tanks back up to do the anti-rotation
brakets. It was not a
problem -- less of a hassle than if I had prosealed
them.....but who cares
if they are going to leak. Raise your hand if you've
successfully used fuel
lube and cork.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings/fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
After using the cork gaskets and hylomar gasket
dressing....I will NOT do
the same again! Leaks o'plenty. I trashed the cork gaskets,
cleaned the
area with lacquer thinner and prosealed the covers on. NO
more leaks. Nuff
said.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
108 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NiCad battery resurrection |
You can get a new switch. Very easy to change.
"Morrissey, John" wrote:
>
>
>
> G'Day Mike,
>
> I always discharge my Makita batteries from my drills by putting them in the
> Makita torch I have. I've got one battery that's nearly 8 years old now and
> still going strong, in fact the drill it came with is nearing the end of its
> life with a faulty switch - too many rivet holes :-)
>
> Cheers
>
> John Morrissey
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Robertson [mailto:mrobert569(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 5:23 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
>
>
> Shoot, I have the same thing on my new Makita battery. I have been sursing
>
> out spending so much for a battery and was about to throw it away. I'll
> give your idea a try and see if it works. With my luck on these things
> though I will probably still have to get a new battery.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
> "Arlington Bound" in the other RV
>
> >From: "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "RV List"
> >Subject: RV-List: NiCad battery resurrection
> >Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:30:55 -0500
> >
> >
> >My Garmin 195 rechargeable battery had--I thought--given up the ghost
> >because within 10 seconds after unhooking from either the charger or
> >cigarette lighter, the unit would shut down due to low battery power. I'd
> >forgotten it on the charger for several days once, and they say never to
> >charge it that long... I figured I'd fried the battery or something.
> >
> >The local A&P suggested deep-cycling the battery like is done with nicad
> >aircraft batteries. His theory was that it never gets drained on the GPS
> >unit--the thing shuts down too soon--and it develops a memory. So, I
> >rigged
> >up a little 12v "peanut bulb" from the auto store (it has terminals like
> >the
> >old minature flash bulbs used to have--sort of like bent wires folded up
> >over the base of the bulb). Formed the wires and used a rubber band to
> >hold
> >it on the battery contacts. It was left on until the battery was totally
> >drained, then I removed the bulb and recharged the battery, then drained
> >it... 4 cycles. I'd let the bulb stay hooked up until it went completely
> >out. First cycle, it lasted under 5 minutes. Second cycle, over an
> >hour...
> >got better with each cycle. Lo and behold, it now seems to be back to
> >normal.... the unit operates on the battery fine and the little battery
> >indicator indicates a full charge...
> >
> >FWIW--maybe it'll save someone else $65 too...
> >
> >Johnny Johnson
> >49MM -3 flying
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: suddenly lead fouling problems |
Michael McGee wrote
>RV-4, O-320-E2G (150 HP) with REM40 plugs. #3 and 4 are getting the
>brunt of it with #3 being the worse on deposits and #4 has the >insulators
looking unusually black. On both it's worse on the bottom >plugs. Oil
consumption is about 1 qt in 20 hours.
Michael this sounds definitely like your engine is running too rich for one
thing, the other is the fact that you are running 100LL fuel .I know that
it's called LOW LEAD but 100LL has 8 times the amount of lead that 80/87
does (LL was compared with 100/130 type fuel).
>I don't think I'm running it any differently than the last 60 hours >I've
>put on the plane with the exception that the prop I just >installed is much
>more of a cruise prop (71x72 Warnke). I get 2550 at 7500' flat out. I
June 27, 2000 - July 03, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-iu