RV-Archive.digest.vol-iv
July 03, 2000 - July 12, 2000
>normally lean it out at altitude by watching the rpm
Using 100LL you should minimise the idling as much as possible, check your
Idle mixture and keep it on the lean side and start leaning your engine
sooner to keep the gasses as hot as possible to get rid of as much lead
through the exhaust. If 80/87 is not available at your airport using mogas (
3 to 4 tanks for 1 tank of 100LL) should do just fine but watch for vapour
lock at high altitude. And yes changing the prop would affect the way your
engine will get rid of the extra lead.
>Is lead fouling a function of running too hot or too cold or too rich ? I
>know it's too low compression for the 100LL we have here but not much I can
>do about that unless I switch to mogas.
Lead fouling is causes by an engine running to way too cold or by oil thru
the rings which doesn't seems to be your case.
Hope this helps you
Alain Nantel(at)hotmail.com
RV-6 C-GGRS
90% done 90% to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers,
Last week we (me, wife, 2 year old son) flew my RV-6A from Manassas VA to Springfield
MO for a visit with my parents. 6 hours total time, wonderful trip, aircraft
performed flawlessly. Yesterday I spent about 4.5 hrs giving Young Eagles
rides (@ SGF), and I noticed that my magneto, at high rpm, is making just
enough noise to break squelch on the King VHF radio, some times.
My P lead is a shielded wire. As I recall, the the mag is turned off by connecting
the P lead shield to the P lead center connector via the switch. The P lead
shield is always grounded at the switch side of the circuit.
Diagnostics to date:
- Mag works fine on runup (1900 rpm, mag-only shows 100 rpm drop vs mag + electronic
ignition)
- The p-lead works, because I can turn off the mag (and the noise) with the key
switch.
- The noise from the mag is not always strong enough to break squelch. It breaks
squelch during run up, on the takeoff run, and occasionally in flight.
I left all my troubleshooting books back home in Virginia, so I'm looking for ideas.
I could adjust the squelch on the King radio a tad, but I could just be
masking a problem by doing that. Any ideas?
Tim Lewis
Tim Lewis
RV-6A N47TD
First Flight 18 Dec 99
Springfield VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Access Plate Sealing |
>Raise your hand if you've successfully used fuel
>lube and cork.
My experience:
- Cork gasket + Permatex gasket sealer = leaks, and gasket sealer turned brittle.
- Cork gasket + fuel lube = leaks
- Proseal = no leaks.
Tim Lewis
Tim Lewis
RV-6A N47TD
First Flight 18 Dec 99
Springfield VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Noise |
>
>Listers,
>
>Last week we (me, wife, 2 year old son) flew my RV-6A from Manassas VA to
>Springfield MO for a visit with my parents. 6 hours total time, wonderful
>trip, aircraft performed flawlessly. Yesterday I spent about 4.5 hrs
>giving Young Eagles rides (@ SGF), and I noticed that my magneto, at high
>rpm, is making just enough noise to break squelch on the King VHF radio,
>some times.
>
>My P lead is a shielded wire. As I recall, the the mag is turned off by
>connecting the P lead shield to the P lead center connector via the switch.
> The P lead shield is always grounded at the switch side of the circuit.
>
>Diagnostics to date:
>- Mag works fine on runup (1900 rpm, mag-only shows 100 rpm drop vs mag +
>electronic ignition)
>- The p-lead works, because I can turn off the mag (and the noise) with the
>key switch.
>- The noise from the mag is not always strong enough to break squelch. It
>breaks squelch during run up, on the takeoff run, and occasionally in
>flight.
>
>I left all my troubleshooting books back home in Virginia, so I'm looking
>for ideas. I could adjust the squelch on the King radio a tad, but I could
>just be masking a problem by doing that. Any ideas?
>
>Tim Lewis
Tim,
The only thing that I can think of is that you mentioned how you have the P
lead shield grounded at the switch end of the circuit. I have both of my
Bendix mag P lead shields grounded at the magneto case, which is, of course,
common with engine ground. If your mag switch ground terminal is wired to
the panel, it may or may not be as reliable a ground as the engine case.
Most likely it is not. Any voltage drop along the shield could induce noise.
I hope you can find the source of the noise. I still have an alternator
whine coming through my com that is noticeable while on the ground at taxi
rpm but gets drowned out in flight. Gotta get an O'scope on the bus and see
what Mr. Nippon Denso is up to.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
108 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Learning to fly in an RV |
Listers,
My wife has been learning to fly and currently has 23 hours logged in a
C-172. With the current increases in fuel prices and insurance it is
costing about 100 bucks a lesson for her instruction. Her instructor has
also not shown up for the last two lessons and has been replaced with a
new instructor who is willing to teach her to fly in our RV-6A.
Has anyone on the list learned to fly in an RV or know of somebody that
has learned in an RV? I would be interested in hearing pros/cons of
learning in a 6A. Any of you CFI's wish to comment?
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Noise |
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, July 03, 2000 1:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Magneto Noise
>
>Listers,
>
>Last week we (me, wife, 2 year old son) flew my RV-6A from Manassas VA to
Springfield MO for a visit with my parents. 6 hours total time, wonderful
trip, aircraft performed flawlessly. Yesterday I spent about 4.5 hrs giving
Young Eagles rides (@ SGF), and I noticed that my magneto, at high rpm, is
making just enough noise to break squelch on the King VHF radio, some times.
>
The same symptoms appeared in my C172 a few years ago. The mag died about 4
hours after onset of radio noise. The A&P told me the noise was internal
arcing and that my experience was common in mag failures. He noted that the
airplane usually gives you a few hours warning before something lets go.
Dennis Persyk 6A FWF end in sight
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: suddenly lead fouling problems |
>
>
> >I don't think I'm running it any differently than the last 60 hours >I've
> >put on the plane with the exception that the prop I just >installed is much
> >more of a cruise prop (71x72 Warnke). I get 2550 at 7500' flat out. I
> >normally lean it out at altitude by watching the rpm.
Leaning for the highest rpm is a best power setting and results in a richer
mixture than is nessesary and could be contributing to your lead fouling. .
You might try leaning for best economy. This is how Lycoming recomends leaning.
3. For cruise powers where best power mixture is allowed, slowly
lean the mixture from full
rich to maximum power. Best power mixture operation provides the
most miles per hour for
a given power setting. For engines equipped with fixed pitch
propellers, gradually lean the
mixture until either the tachometer or the airspeed indicator
reading peaks. For engines
equipped with controllable pitch propellers, lean until a slight
increase of airspeed is noted.
4. For a given power setting, best economy mixture provides the
most miles per gallon.
Slowly lean the mixture until engine operation becomes rough or
until engine power rapidly
diminishes as noted by an undesirable decrease in airspeed. When
either condition occurs,
enrich the mixture sufficiently to obtain an evenly firing
engine or to regain most of the lost
airspeed or engine RPM. Some engine power and airspeed must be
sacrificed to gain a best
economy mixture setting.
This can be found in Lycomings Key Reprints located:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/leaning_lycoming_engines.html
>
>
> Using 100LL you should minimise the idling as much as possible, check your
> Idle mixture and keep it on the lean side and start leaning your engine
> sooner to keep the gasses as hot as possible to get rid of as much lead
> through the exhaust. If 80/87 is not available at your airport using mogas (
> 3 to 4 tanks for 1 tank of 100LL) should do just fine but watch for vapour
> lock at high altitude. And yes changing the prop would affect the way your
> engine will get rid of the extra lead.
It also helps to lean aggresivly on the ground. I pull the mixture out until
the engine starts to stumble and then richen the mixture enough for smooth
ground operations. When I am ready to do my run-up I go to full rich (actually
about 1/2 inch out here at 5500') and do a normal runup. If you forget to push
the mixture in before run-up it will let you know as it will cough, spit an die
from not enough fuel.
Hope this helps
Gary Zilik
6A N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Noise |
In a message dated 7/3/00 12:14:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I noticed that my magneto, at high rpm, is making just enough noise to
break squelch on the King VHF radio, some times.
My P lead is a shielded wire. As I recall, the the mag is turned off by
connecting the P lead shield to the P lead center connector via the switch.
The P lead shield is always grounded at the switch side of the circuit. >>
Tim-
Ah grasshopper, you have disobeyed the cardinal rule. It is not time for you
to leave, gimme back that pebble. You must have slept thru that paragraph in
The AeroElectric Connection and may have inadvertently created a ground loop.
Each P lead shield should tie only to its respective magneto case at the
engine end and then on the other end to one pole of the panel switch (no
other ground). Each P lead center conductor should tie only to the magneto
terminal at the engine end and then to the same pole but opposite terminal of
the panel switch. Same for the other mag P lead. When you throw the
switch(es) you tie to center and the shield (ground from the mag case)
together.
Glad you had a good time on your trip. We just got back from a week in
Yellowstone (5 hrs each way from Livermore, CA). For those of you still
building, I think someone has mentioned before that you are going to love
this airplane.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Access Plate Sealing |
Larry,
Fuel Lube and cork is working fine for me.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>
> Am I the only one using fuel-lube on the cork gasket? It passed the
balloon
> and soapy water test, but I'm a ways away from putting >
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 wings/fuse
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> RV8 N94BD
> 108 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Noise |
Tim,
The "P" lead shield should be grounded only at the mag.
switch should only make or break the circuit between the center conductor
and the shield.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Magneto Noise
>
> Listers,
>
> Last week we (me, wife, 2 year old son) flew my RV-6A from Manassas VA to
Springfield MO for a visit with my parents. 6 hours total time, wonderful
trip, aircraft performed flawlessly. Yesterday I spent about 4.5 hrs giving
Young Eagles rides (@ SGF), and I noticed that my magneto, at high rpm, is
making just enough noise to break squelch on the King VHF radio, some times.
>
> My P lead is a shielded wire. As I recall, the the mag is turned off by
connecting the P lead shield to the P lead center connector via the switch.
The P lead shield is always grounded at the switch side of the circuit.
>
> Diagnostics to date:
> - Mag works fine on runup (1900 rpm, mag-only shows 100 rpm drop vs mag +
electronic ignition)
> - The p-lead works, because I can turn off the mag (and the noise) with
the key switch.
> - The noise from the mag is not always strong enough to break squelch. It
breaks squelch during run up, on the takeoff run, and occasionally in
flight.
>
> I left all my troubleshooting books back home in Virginia, so I'm looking
for ideas. I could adjust the squelch on the King radio a tad, but I could
just be masking a problem by doing that. Any ideas?
>
> Tim Lewis
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6A N47TD
> First Flight 18 Dec 99
> Springfield VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dall" <rdall(at)clinipath.net> |
I have a friend who has tried unsuccessfully for some time to order a
Navaid. Seems they are so popular that they cannot keep up with demand.
Living far away in Australia makes it even harder. If anyone has managed to
get an order in for the Navaid wing leveller, but has since decided they
don't want it...or you have a Navaid and want to upgrade to a 2 axis device
please e-mail me and I can put you in touch with my friend. I have a vested
interest as he has finished his RV6 and mine is some time off.....he wants
to use my Navaid (aquired through the list thank you) in his plane.
Richard Dall
Perth, Western Australia
RV6-Turning the fuselage canoe over tonight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
Folks
While reading the post from the gentleman with the fouling plugs problem, and
the responses of others, it led me to a question about fuels. I own a Piper
Cherokee with an 0320E2A, and the previous owner and I are both using 100LL.
I have put
about forty hours on the airplane with no symptoms(runs fine) and 80/87 fuel
is also
available at my homebase. Question is, what difference would I notice if
switching to the 80/87??? I also have mogas available at the field, and have
unsloshed tanks, so feel I could use it under the right conditions. I mean,
the difference in price between the 80/87 and 100LL is only a few cents.
However, if there is a disadvantage to using the 100LL, I will stop this
practice, and be comforted in knowing that it will not give me grief on those
occasions when I may not be able to obtain 80/87. As far as the mogas is
concerned, I do have the STC but have not yet used it.
Jim Nice
RV6A(Wings)
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning to fly in an RV |
--- Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> My wife has been learning to fly and currently has
> 23 hours logged in a
> C-172. With the current increases in fuel prices
> and insurance it is
> costing about 100 bucks a lesson for her
> instruction. Her instructor has
> also not shown up for the last two lessons and has
> been replaced with a
> new instructor who is willing to teach her to fly in
> our RV-6A.
>
> Has anyone on the list learned to fly in an RV or
> know of somebody that
> has learned in an RV? I would be interested in
> hearing pros/cons of
> learning in a 6A. Any of you CFI's wish to comment?
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A N99PZ
Gary:
Jerry VanGrunsven taught Stan VanGrunsven how to fly
in the RV-6A that they built. It was written up in a
past RVAtor if I remember.
Nope that helps. I am not a CFI but Jerry is.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Motor Power Source |
After attaching the wings on my RV-4 I am now cutting the access holes
for the flap rods. This entails running my flap motor up and down several
times. I was using a battery charger as the power source, but decided to
try a 9 volt "transistor radio" battery instead. It works fine. I had used
the 9 volt battery to run my MAC servos during fitment but just assumed it
wouldn't be able to run the more powerful flap motor. Using the little
battery is MUCH more convenient than the charger. One battery has run my
flaps up and down at least 10 times.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust Support Failures
>
> >
> >I have not yet seen his pipes, but I can tell you I've read a LOT of
> >breakage reports on this list. I also believe Jon Johanson cracked some
> >exhaust parts coming to Hawaii on his first trip (totally from
> >memory....shoot me if I'm mistaken). There are several places I've had
> >custom exhaust for race cars made near me....none of them has cracked or
> >broken in anyway to my knowledge. Maybe I'll just have a set made
locally
> >when that time comes. Anyone else done this? It just doesn't seem like
> >brain surgery to me.....other than hauling the fuse over there for the
> >fitting.....
> >
> >Bill
>
> Bill,
>
> As far as I know, what few problems the Vetterman's exhaust system has
is
> in the hangers on the 6A. There have been very few actual exhaust
problems
> as far as cracking is concerned. If I remember correctly, Johanson has
(or
> had) an Allan Tolle system. These systems had a reputation of cracking
the
> pipes on cyl. #4. This problem was so well known that I sold a brand new,
> unused Tolle system at a tremendous loss (the guy still owes me the
freight
> charge.) I wouldn't fly this system across the street, let alone across
> the world. The difference between the Tolle system and the Vetterman is
> that Larry will bend over backwards to make things right. Tolle pretty
> much said, "tough". I really like Allan and his wife and they were among
> the best sales reps (unofficial) that Van's ever had. But, their exhaust
> systems were not near the quality of the Vetterman system.
> I had no problems with the Vetteman system in 470 hours with the
> exception of using stainless steel hose clamps. They just didn't last. I
> changed over to heavier, steel muffler clamps and all problems stopped on
> my six. The 6A mounting system is different than that of the six. Larry
> will stand behind his system. I'm sure that builders will also come up
> with some creative fixes. We had some clamp breakage problems on my
friend
> Charlie's 6A but I haven't heard of any recent problems. Grabbing the
> exhaust outlets is probably a good idea when doing your pre=flight check.
>
> Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
> Tech Counselor # 3726
We, Bob Graves and myself have the Allan Tolle crossover system on our -4s.
Mine has 1400 hours plus and Bob has over 1,000.00 hours. Chuck Brush
welded "finger tabs" right where the exhaust pipes join at the manifold.
We both installed the spiral wound gaskets and have had many trouble free
hours of flying. Chuck installed a Vetterman system on his new -4 which is
working real fine; but I must tell you listers, the finger tabs, ( which is
merely a built up triangle shape weldment) on the Tolle sysem seems to be
working perfectly well.
Hope it doesn't fail me tomorrow.
Best Regards,
N-34CZ (1,415 hours)
Deal Fair
George West, Tx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
> If the support fails, the pipe cannot be too far behind....otherwise why
do
> you need the support at all? Just because the support failures are found
> before the pipe fails doesn't mean it's not a problem.
The parts of the pipes that are supported by this hangar system are
connected to the rest of the exhaust system with ball joints. If the
supports fail, the pipes will hang down and rattle against the bottom scoop
of the cowl. The most likely result will be wearing of the cowl and aft
scoop which if left long enough might wear through the fiberglass. Probably
wouldn't hurt the pipes much unless run this way for several hours. Still
not a good situation though.
> The only conclusion I've drawn is that I don't want a system in my plane
> that has been shown to fail with some regularity.
Who does? Unfortunately there doesn't (yet) seem to be any single "proven"
exhaust hangar system for RVs that has a good track record. Or maybe there
is but I haven't heard of it. There are a number of people who've done their
own thing or used a pre-made system and have been successful. There are also
a number of people who have done both and have had failures. Unfortunately
I'm in the latter group. :-(
Bottom line is its a difficult problem. Lots of variables down there that
can force adjustments to any hangar system and which might (does) cause a
particular arrangement to not work in some installations while it might work
in others. I think Larry's exhaust SYSTEM is tops but if someone comes up
with a "foolproof" hangar for it I'd sure sign up for it. The thing is, as
far as I know, up till now Larry's is the only one that's specifically
designed and marketed to RVers.
When I talked to Larry about it he indicated that there had been some
failures of the hangar system but they were a small percentage. Based on
this thread I suspect there are more than he realizes. I'm sure this
discussion will get back to him and from his reputation I'll bet he'll get
even more serious about finding a cure if he hasn't already. Meantime if
someone wants to compete I wouldn't argue against it.
Heck if someone wants to try to design a "better" exhaust system, I say go
for it! But hangars aside, Larrys exhaust system is darned good and it would
probably take a while for a competitor to develop a track record like
Larry's has.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid wanted |
In a message dated 7/3/00 7:49:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rdall(at)clinipath.net writes:
<< I have a friend who has tried unsuccessfully for some time to order a
Navaid. Seems they are so popular that they cannot keep up with demand.
Living far away in Australia makes it even harder. If anyone has managed to
get an order in for the Navaid wing leveler, but has since decided they
don't want it...or you have a Navaid and want to upgrade to a 2 axis device
please e-mail me and I can put you in touch with my friend. I have a vested
interest as he has finished his RV6 and mine is some time off.....he wants
to use my Navaid (acquired through the list thank you) in his plane. >>
I really think someone could scalp these things. I also have another friend
who recently purchased a flying Harmon Rocket and wishes to install a Navaid
ASAP. I don't want to take one away from Richard, but anyone else with
another extra one in the box that they want to part with contact me directly.
thx
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
| Subject: | Learning to fly in an RV-6A |
While it can be done (witness the Nigerian Air Beetles), the general
feeling is that in the -6A, things can happen more quickly than many
students can catch up with. Examples: too slow on final with a high sink
rate; runway excursions on takeoff. (By the way, I saw some accident
stats that indicated that the leading kind of -6A incidents were loss of
control on takeoff).
What do I think (speculate? hypotheize? BS?) would be the success
factors in learning in an RV-6A?
* Really great natural communications between instructor and student.
* Very knowledgeable instructor who knows what works, what doesn't, and why
* Lack of external pressures, such as time to solo, finances, spousal expectations
Good luck!
Ed Wischmeyer, CFI
BTW, my wife and I communicate rather well, but we've decided that
she'll learn to fly with another instructor, not me. Fortunately we came
to this conclusion before we bruised either our relationship or her
flying enthusiasm.
--
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
tel;work:425 376-2176
url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | fuel tank questions |
Hello everybody,
I have two easy questions:
(1) Does the fuel sender unit just get screwed on to the access cover with
the rubber like gasket dry or is sealant used with it?
(2) I found a short piece of .125" aluminum angle 2" x 2 1/2" in my parts.
Is that what I use for fabricating the anti-rotation bracket (fuel pick up
tube) or is it used elsewhere later on?
Thanks again for your help.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry & Karen Gooding <GOODING(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning to fly in an RV-6A |
>BTW, my wife and I communicate rather well, but we've decided that
>she'll learn to fly with another instructor, not me. Fortunately we came
>to this conclusion before we bruised either our relationship or her
>flying enthusiasm.
Ed - Good decision. I tried to use Larry as an instructor when I was
primary, but it did not work. If I got spooked, he would "save" me. If
that happened with my CFI, well he'd take me up and make me do stalls til I
got my confidence back. I learned more.
Now once I got my Private behind me, I have learned a great deal more from
Larry than I did before. He's been an invaluable resouce to me, with all
his thousands of hours of experience. It's important to me though to keep
doing solo cross country time.
Karen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
List: Just finished my rudder for my 6A-QB and it came out great! I did
notice a potential problem in that I built the R-404 Rib out of .025 Alum.
instead of .032 as called for in the builders manual!!!
The top rib (R-403) is made of .025 so no problem there.I can make a
.032 insert for the bottom of the R-404 which should do the same job (Even
stronger) than the original.
I really don't want to tear the rudder apart and see no weakness in
this set up. What say you old pros.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 07/01/00 |
Please change my e-mail address from tcal300(at)aol.com to tcal300(at)mindspring.com
Thanks, Tom Calvanelli-ATL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
>
> > If the support fails, the pipe cannot be too far behind....otherwise why
> > do you need the support at all? Just because the support failures are found
> > before the pipe fails doesn't mean it's not a problem.
I bought a set of Allen Tolles exhaust originally and number four
broke off at the flange in less than 20 hours. I then did as
someone else here suggested and welded the finger enforcement at
the flanges and they lasted about 40 hours. Next I had a local
welder makes me a set of exhausts and they lasted about 100 hours
before they started continually breaking and cracking. In frustration
I threw them all away and ordered a set from Larry Vetterman and
installed them the same way that Ed Bundy described in another post
by getting a couple rubber automotive exhaust hangers from Master
Muffler. These are a heavy rubber like a car tire with a piece's
of steel riveted on both ends. One end I attached to the motor
mount with Adell clamps and the other end had an L shaped piece of
steel that I held to the exhaust with stainless steel worm clamps.
I also put a space between the two tailpipes and held it in place
with the same worm clamps. I can only say that I have now had
around 800 hrs of exhaust trouble free flying.
JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning to fly in an RV-6A |
Did I see leading cause of accidents in the 6A is loss of control on
takeoff? A nosewheel aircraft! Another reason to learn tailwheel, control.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Wischmeyer" <edwisch(at)aa.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 8:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Learning to fly in an RV-6A
>
>
> While it can be done (witness the Nigerian Air Beetles), the general
> feeling is that in the -6A, things can happen more quickly than many
> students can catch up with. Examples: too slow on final with a high sink
> rate; runway excursions on takeoff. (By the way, I saw some accident
> stats that indicated that the leading kind of -6A incidents were loss of
> control on takeoff).
>
> What do I think (speculate? hypotheize? BS?) would be the success
> factors in learning in an RV-6A?
> * Really great natural communications between instructor and student.
> * Very knowledgeable instructor who knows what works, what doesn't, and
why
> * Lack of external pressures, such as time to solo, finances, spousal
expectations
>
> Good luck!
>
> Ed Wischmeyer, CFI
>
> BTW, my wife and I communicate rather well, but we've decided that
> she'll learn to fly with another instructor, not me. Fortunately we came
> to this conclusion before we bruised either our relationship or her
> flying enthusiasm.
>
>
> --
>
> NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
> insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
>
> - - - - - - - -
>
> Ed Wischmeyer
> Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
> Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
> name="edwisch.vcf"
> filename="edwisch.vcf"
>
> begin:vcard
> n:Wischmeyer;Ed
> tel;fax:425 898-9566
> tel;home:425 898-9856
> tel;work:425 376-2176
> url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
> adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
> version:2.1
> email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
> fn:Ed Wischmeyer
> end:vcard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Construction Manual |
Listers and niner fans,
I have noticed a few little things missing in the manual and on the
drawings for my -9 wings, I am assuming since this is a new design that all
the bugs have not had a chance to surface. My question is, does Vans welcome
critisizms and corrections from builders , or are these little glitches
typical with all the other designs, too? I have spent a lot of time
researching a couple of little things before I committed to drilling a hole
or inserting a rivet, that a small line on the drawing or a sentence in the
manual could have clarified. Please reply offlist if you have had similar
discoveries.
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank questions |
Eric
Norman already answered question #1. Regarding question #2, that material was
intended to make the T-405 tank attach brackets Norman referred to. After
making both my T-405 brackets, I had enough material left to make 3 of the anti
rotation brackets. Be careful cutting out the T-405 brackets and you will have
plenty material left for the anti rotation brackets.
> snipped
> I have two easy questions:
> (1) Does the fuel sender unit just get screwed on to the access cover with
> the rubber like gasket dry or is sealant used with it?
> (2) I found a short piece of .125" aluminum angle 2" x 2 1/2" in my parts.
> Is that what I use for fabricating the anti-rotation bracket (fuel pick up
> tube) or is it used elsewhere later on?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | exhaust cracking |
If everyone with exhaust hangers breaking would look under their auto they
will find that they use rubber between the metal straps straps.I have over
250 hrs and no broken straps. Ollie 6A 795LW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank questions |
In a message dated 7/4/00 10:18:12 AM Central Daylight Time,
nhunger(at)sprint.ca writes:
<< Careful, have you made the forward attach bracket of the tank to fuselage
intersection? That is what it sounds like that angle is for. >>
Thanks Norman - no, I found the piece for the forward attachment brackets
and its thicker than .125" This is a piece of angle that's only .125" and
about 8" long. I assume its for making the anti-rotation piece. I'm going
with the dot of paint idea as well. Thanks for the tip and the answer to my
questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Construction Manual |
Little glitches? The RV-9 manual only has LITTLE GLITCHES? :-)
Bill
-4
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A Construction Manual
>
> Listers and niner fans,
> I have noticed a few little things missing in the manual and on the
> drawings for my -9 wings, I am assuming since this is a new design that
all
> the bugs have not had a chance to surface. My question is, does Vans
welcome
> critisizms and corrections from builders , or are these little glitches
> typical with all the other designs, too? I have spent a lot of time
> researching a couple of little things before I committed to drilling a
hole
> or inserting a rivet, that a small line on the drawing or a sentence in
the
> manual could have clarified. Please reply offlist if you have had similar
> discoveries.
> Kevin Shannon
> -9 Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A Construction Manual |
I have informed Van's of several minor errors in the RV-9A manual and have
received thanks for bringing it to their attention. I have been thinking
about listing these corrections on my RV-9A web page but haven't found the
time to do it yet.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Listers and niner fans,
I have noticed a few little things missing in the manual and on the
drawings for my -9 wings, I am assuming since this is a new design that all
the bugs have not had a chance to surface. My question is, does Vans welcome
critisizms and corrections from builders , or are these little glitches
typical with all the other designs, too? I have spent a lot of time
researching a couple of little things before I committed to drilling a hole
or inserting a rivet, that a small line on the drawing or a sentence in the
manual could have clarified. Please reply offlist if you have had similar
discoveries.
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A Construction Manual |
KEVIN VAN NEEDS ALL THE INPUT YOU CAN GIVE HIM. THATS HOW HE COMES UP WITH
SUCH A GREAT KIT TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Support Failures |
>We, Bob Graves and myself have the Allan Tolle crossover system on our -4s.
>Mine has 1400 hours plus and Bob has over 1,000.00 hours. Chuck Brush
>welded "finger tabs" right where the exhaust pipes join at the manifold.
>We both installed the spiral wound gaskets and have had many trouble free
>hours of flying. Chuck installed a Vetterman system on his new -4 which is
>working real fine; but I must tell you listers, the finger tabs, ( which is
>merely a built up triangle shape weldment) on the Tolle sysem seems to be
>working perfectly well.
>
>Hope it doesn't fail me tomorrow.
>
>Best Regards,
>N-34CZ (1,415 hours)
>Deal Fair
>George West, Tx
Deal,
We had a cowboy who worked for us for years who ate steak & eggs for
breakfast, drank massive quantities of whiskey, chewed Skoal and smoked 2
packs of Luckys per day for years and lived into his 90's but it's not
something I would recommend:)
The question is probably moot as I don't believe Tolle has manufactured
exhaust systems for years. And, there may have been variations in quality
over the time period that he made them. On my Tolle system, the exhaust
flanges were not parallel to the exhaust ports which caused excessive
stress when these were tightened down. Also, where one pipe was joined to
another it looked as if the hole in the "covered" pipe was blown in with a
blow torch and was not the full area of the pipe that was welded over the
"hole". The "joints" on Vetterman's systems are beautiful by comparison.
My only reason for posting was to possibly keep someone from purchasing a
"used" Tolle system because I feel that the Vetterman system is a better
value. I was at S&F several years ago and visited with a RV4 owner
concerning his Tolle system. He said he had several cracking problems.
The main area of concern was around Cyl. #4. He taxied out as he had to
get home and turned around and taxied back. I helped him uncowl his plane
as the exhaust had cracked again. He was not in a good mood. On the FAA's
homebuilt bulletin board, there seemed to be a lot of problems with this
system, as well. Mainly cracking on cyl #4.
I'm glad you have had good luck with your system. A fiberglass cowl
catching on fire due to exhaust system breakage is not high on the list of
things I want to have happen to me. I felt the choice of the Vetterman
system as opposed to the Tolle system was the best choice for me.
Regards,
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Adjusting a Type-S Cowl |
A couple of months back, I rough trimmed and fit my Type-S cowl on my RV-6.
Now that I'm cleaning it up, installing fasteners, etc., it is obvious that
the upper cowl is maybe 1/2 inch wider than the bottom cowl for most of its
length. What I'm seeing is that the sides of the upper cowl stick out 1/4"
farther on each side of the fuse than the lower cowl.
Any thoughts on how to make this extra width go away? I don't think the
hinges will be happy with the preload it will take to "make it fit".
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust cracking |
OK...What is the best source of the rubber hangars? Will any muffler shop
let you come in and browse the selection (not sure they would be receptive
to that without you bring in your car).
Just curious.
Chris
----------
> From: Ollie Washburn <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
> To: RV-List Matronics
> Subject: RV-List: exhaust cracking
> Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 12:11 PM
>
>
> If everyone with exhaust hangers breaking would look under their auto
they
> will find that they use rubber between the metal straps straps.I have
over
> 250 hrs and no broken straps. Ollie 6A 795LW
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
someone during the last day or so posted a question or made a comment and had
a website of their project. can someone e mail that website. thanx bob in
arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Question |
I am building my ailerons and I noticed that no where in the instructions
or in Orndorf's video do they mention RTV on the stiffeners. RTV was used
on the other control surfaces that used stiffeners. Is there any reason
why it is not used on the ailerons or are they just assuming that we will
continue the pattern and use it?
Vince Welch
RV-8A Ailerons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | The tools are here! |
Hi Mark
The tools arrived today and everything is in good order except the
missing -6 rivet gauge as you suspected. Thanks for putting in the extra
goodies as well. I seen tie-wraps and tape plus labels - great!
I had tp pay $116 to get it from my local post office though. Customs
assumed it was new tools (they have too) and taxed me 15% on top of the
Canadian value. They told me I can get it back though so it's not a big deal
but I have to ask you a small favour. Customs require that you send a list
of all the tools you sent and just write that they were second-hand and sign
it. You could either scan and send in e-mail or send it in an envelope.
Thanks for your help - and sorry for being so impatient. It turned out that
Customs had it for a long time.
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Phillips
Sent: May 18, 2000 11:10 PM
Subject: RV6-List: tools for sale
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Mark Phillips"
I have the following tools for sale (mint condition)
All are AVERY tools.
PT81 Rivet Spacing tool
10741 Jig Fixture Brackets
1042 Edge Rolling Tool
620 Bucking Bar
615 Bucking Bar
1044 Double Edge Deburring Tool (NEW)
500 Fluting Pliers
200 Cleco Pliers
1300 Rivet Cutters
1050 Flute Burring Cutter
1046-1 Swivel Handle
1046-2 Extension Handle
420 Nesco 3/8 Air Drill
1043 Swivel Head Deburring Tool
575 Hand Seamer
1001 Hand Riveting and Dimpling Tool
150 Air Tool Regulator
9425 2 1/2 Hand Rivet Squeezer
1048 Back Riveting Rivet Set
4704 .401 Sha;nk Short 1/8
19360 Countersink Cage
1007 Rivet Guage Set
1008 Rivet Length guage
1022 3/32 Pop Rivet Dimplers
4706 Rivet Set 3/16
All tools are in excellent condition, All were purchased from Avery. Prices
from the current AVERY catalog total 772.25. Will take 20% off for a total
of 615.00. Reply email at mphill(at)fgi.net or at 217-566-2500.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna ground clearance |
Hi,
I have a 45 degree bent whip comm antenna I would like to install on the
belly of my RV-6. I would like to mount it just forward of the main
spar. If I mount it here, I have a ground clearance of about 7". Is
this the typical comm antenna installation on an RV-6?
Aeroelectric Bob says the antenna can be bent as far as 45 degrees which
it is, so bending it more is probably out of the question.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Question |
Hi Vince:
Conventional wisdom dictates that you omit the use of RTV in your ailerons
so that if you need to squeeze a trailing edge of one to correct a "heavy"
wing situation, you will be able to do so. The presence of RTV would
prevent any attempt to recountour the trailing edge.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
hanging flap, second wing
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 4:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Question
>
>I am building my ailerons and I noticed that no where in the instructions
>or in Orndorf's video do they mention RTV on the stiffeners. RTV was used
>on the other control surfaces that used stiffeners. Is there any reason
>why it is not used on the ailerons or are they just assuming that we will
>continue the pattern and use it?
>
>Vince Welch
>RV-8A Ailerons
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Question |
>
>
>I am building my ailerons and I noticed that no where in the instructions
>or in Orndorf's video do they mention RTV on the stiffeners. RTV was used
>on the other control surfaces that used stiffeners. Is there any reason
>why it is not used on the ailerons or are they just assuming that we will
>continue the pattern and use it?
>
>Vince Welch
>RV-8A Ailerons
>
Vince,
I didn't use any RTV in the ailerons. The only cracks I have personally
seen in any RV have been on the rudder. I have 108 hours on the plane. No
cracks.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kcskiflyer" <klwski1(at)pouch.com> |
| Subject: | Going to Shreveport, LA. |
Hello RV list,
I,ve been busy working on my RV-9A, but it looks like the wife wants to
visit the family. Any builders or flyers in the Shreveport LA area? I would
love to see your dreams coming together, or better yet those dreams as a
reality, I would be glad to pay for the gas and have that RV grin to come
back to, and add to my dreams!! Any way I'll be in the area on the 7th to
the 16th of July, I'll be sitting and skiing on Black Bayou Lack e-mail me
off the list @ klwski1(at)pouch.com
Thanks
Ken
RV-9A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <jheath24(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust cracking |
Late model Mercedes-Benz
JDHeath
----- Original Message -----
From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: exhaust cracking
>
> OK...What is the best source of the rubber hangars? Will any muffler shop
> let you come in and browse the selection (not sure they would be receptive
> to that without you bring in your car).
> Just curious.
>
> Chris
>
> ----------
> > From: Ollie Washburn <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
> > To: RV-List Matronics
> > Subject: RV-List: exhaust cracking
> > Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 12:11 PM
> >
> >
> > If everyone with exhaust hangers breaking would look under their auto
> they
> > will find that they use rubber between the metal straps straps.I have
> over
> > 250 hrs and no broken straps. Ollie 6A 795LW
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Stiffeners and 3M Tape |
How about a progress report from those builders who were
considering using 3M structural tape to attach the control
surface stiffeners, rather than riveting them.
Hawkeye
RV-3 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust cracking |
I haven't followed this thread too carefully, so sorry if the following
has already been said.
I've only seen this hinted at in the posts I've read. If there's any
stress or 'pre-loading' on the pipes or flanges, you are likely to get
cracks no matter who made the exaust. I found a bad crack in mine (no
idea who made them) during an oil change. Removed the pipe, had it
welded, reinstalled & discovered that the pipe end was jammed against
the bottom of the firewall when the flange bolts were tightened. I
suppose that the mounts had sagged slightly. I took the pipe to my
friendly local muffler shop & had them bend the last few inches down a
bit to miss the firewall. No more cracks for the last ~200 hours. I have
remade some of the hanger bracing once or twice, but never attached much
significance to that.
I think that we should remember that no matter who makes a part or
system, every installation is different and after all, this is aircraft
quality stuff we are talking about & we can't reasonably expect
automotive quality & reliability :-) Seriously, most of the 'stuff' on
a/c is designed to be just barely strong enough to do the job, because
every ounce saved is important. The result is that seemingly minor
miscalculations or installation errors result in new parts. Just ask
owners of Cessna twins.
Charlie
flying -4, working on the house at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell seems to fit too tight |
List:
This afternoon I installed Van's standard Hartzell on a Van's standard
O-360. Everything was going well, I was able to work in a circular mannor
tightening the prop bolts mostly by finger until the prop was about .035"
from seating, then one of the bolts, seemed to either bottom out or the
associated thrust bushing is too long and it bottomed into the recess in the
prop. I backed all the bolts off so I had equal gap all the way around and
also to prove that one of the other bolts wasn't causing the problem. I
guess I'm putting 5 ft lbs of torque on it. I don't want to force it
though, it should still be going on easy at this point. Yes, I did take the
plug out of the crank. Is the last fraction supposed to go on tight? If
so, is it going to be just as difficult to get the prop off later?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy skirt trim |
A quick question for all that have finished the canopy install.
Is the canopy skirt supposed to fit under the wind screen molding overlay that
covers the canopy when closed?
The drawings are extremely vague regarding this point and the written
instructions don't mention it at all.
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finish )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stiffeners and 3M Tape |
You're asking the wrong people. Ask those who have already flown
hundreds of hours. Thats the real test.
No way would I even consider it.
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM 1500+ hours
Robert Hughes wrote:
>
> How about a progress report from those builders who were
> considering using 3M structural tape to attach the control
> surface stiffeners, rather than riveting them.
>
> Hawkeye
> RV-3 Fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
Hello to All,
A while back I printed a spreadsheet list of parts for our RVs. Some one
has gone to a lot of trouble to set this up and I am trying get it again.
It contained the accessory bags in sequential order and what to expect in
them. I can't seem to find it again. I have tried the search engine but do
remember what the name of this file was. It may be possible some one on the
list referred to a web page where I got the list.
I would really appreciate it, if any one could point me in the right
direction.
Best regards....
Les Rowles.
Traralgon Australia.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dall" <rdall(at)clinipath.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread sheet |
Try the Matronics Home Page...an Excel Download is listed at the botom of
the index
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/index.htm
Richard Dall
RV6
Perth Western Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 12:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spread sheet
|
| Hello to All,
|
| A while back I printed a spreadsheet list of parts for our RVs. Some one
| has gone to a lot of trouble to set this up and I am trying get it again.
| It contained the accessory bags in sequential order and what to expect in
| them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spread sheet |
> I would really appreciate it, if any one could point me in the right
> direction.
> Best regards....
> Les Rowles.
A response pointed to Matronics - there is also one at:
http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/frankv/rv_parts.htm
Don't know if they are the same or the result of different efforts.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jaugilas <jaugilas(at)allways.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to seal up fuel line connecitons |
I work in a business that is heavily involved in hydraulics.
Normal hydraulic pressures are considered to be around 2500psi to 3000psi range.
This is referred to medium pressures.
The type of fittings used for fuel lines in aircraft are very similar to those
used
at these pressures.
Absolutely no sealing junk is used on any threads. Except for the tapered threads
(pipe threads) all of the sealing surfaces are not the threads. They will be either
the ring or the flare with a metal to metal seal. Anything else will compromise
the
seal.
For a matter of discussion, on pipe threads the sealing surface is also not any
compound used. It is the metal to metal that is driven together by the taper. The
compound is only there for lubrication.
A pipe thread is never to be reverse rotated for the correct orientation. It is
only
to be rotated to the right until it is in the right position.
A bit of trivia. I used to live near a couple of Fire Sprinkler Fitters here in
the
Chicago area. This subject came up one time and they had a laugh. They said that
none of the contractors in the area use any, repeat, they use absolutely no compound
of any kind on all of their fittings. That was over twenty years ago an I have
looked for myself and it is confirmed.
I believe they test to 250psi in their systems.
Now for what I do, I use a few different test gauges with many different adapter
fittings. Like I said before, pressures are around 2500 to 300psi. It takes time
to
assemble adapters and fittings to just get a simple test for certain pressures.
I
don't use any compound on any pipe threads. I don't use any compound on any
hydraulic fittings. Now get this, I don't use any wrench to tighten the fittings.
I
just use my fingers.
At 3000 psi the worst condition I ever get is a little dribble of oil from maybe
only one fitting. By then I have collected the information I needed.
I don't suggest that you build an airplane with fuel lines tightened with only
your
fingers. That would be fuelish. Ha.
These examples suggest that a leak free system should be rather easy to build.
All
of the fittings are designed to be leak free without any help. If help is needed
it
is is the positioning of the tubing, length, flare, whatever. There is no magic
cure, sealer that will make up for a poor fitted joint.
Please, I don't want to find fault here. But the truth is that if tubing is fitted
,
bent , flared, and the fitting is tightened and it leaks, something wasn't done
right.
Bill Jaugilas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy skirt trim |
Jim... I've been looking at several finished 8's at that exact question.
Seems about half and half. The builders that fit the skirt under the fwd
skin report chipped paint problems. The best looking fit comes when they are
flush I think, plus it's easier to fabricate.
Doug Gardner 80717
Skirt
Palm Harbor Fla
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com [mailto:Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 9:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy skirt trim
A quick question for all that have finished the canopy install.
Is the canopy skirt supposed to fit under the wind screen molding overlay
that
covers the canopy when closed?
The drawings are extremely vague regarding this point and the written
instructions don't mention it at all.
Thx,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( finish )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy skirt trim |
>
>A quick question for all that have finished the canopy install.
>
>Is the canopy skirt supposed to fit under the wind screen molding overlay
>that
>covers the canopy when closed?
>
>The drawings are extremely vague regarding this point and the written
>instructions don't mention it at all.
>
>Thx,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8AQ ( finish )
>N89JA (reserved)
Jim,
Yes, the canopy skirt nests under the windscreen overlay you make with
fiberglass or CARBON FIBER. (Note emphasis...it WILL make a MUCH more rigid
fairing).
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
108 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leaks |
Reposted for future e-searching
akroguy(at)hotmail.com on 07/02/2000 10:28:07 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access Plate Sealing
>
>George Orndorf in his wing construction video mentions Tite Seal as the
>sealant for the tank access plate.
>In searching the archives I found only one reference to Tite Seal. It
>was very positive by someone who said he had used it for all sorts of
>fuel line and tank sealing for 25 years. The majority of comments on
>sealing the access plate were for Pro Seal both with and without the
>gasket. Some indicated no problem in re-opening the access plate after
>sealing with Pro Seal.
>I would be interested in any experiences with Tite Seal for the access
>plate, good or bad. After viewing the videos, I purchased Tite Seal. I
>will have to decide soon whether or not to use it or to just go ahead
>with the Pro Seal (actually, it is the newer material per Mil S 8802F).
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Richard Dudley
>RV-6A
>Wings (tanks)
>Orlando
Richard,
After using the cork gaskets and hylomar gasket dressing....I will NOT do
the same again! Leaks o'plenty. I trashed the cork gaskets, cleaned the
area with lacquer thinner and prosealed the covers on. NO more leaks. Nuff
said.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
108 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Question |
Also, the wing dihederal allows for water to roll down hill and exit ( you
should have water drain holes and a way for water to exit every bay---either by
flow to next bay or final exit ). RTV disallows this to occur.
jorear(at)mari.net on 07/04/2000 06:34:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Question
Hi Vince:
Conventional wisdom dictates that you omit the use of RTV in your ailerons
so that if you need to squeeze a trailing edge of one to correct a "heavy"
wing situation, you will be able to do so. The presence of RTV would
prevent any attempt to recountour the trailing edge.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
hanging flap, second wing
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 4:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Question
>
>I am building my ailerons and I noticed that no where in the instructions
>or in Orndorf's video do they mention RTV on the stiffeners. RTV was used
>on the other control surfaces that used stiffeners. Is there any reason
>why it is not used on the ailerons or are they just assuming that we will
>continue the pattern and use it?
>
>Vince Welch
>RV-8A Ailerons
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine type question |
>
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what the difference is between an O-360-A1A and
> O-360-A1D?
>
> >
According to Lycoming's engine guide, an 0-360 A1D is the same as an A1A
except that it has Retard Breaker Magnetos.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh get togeather |
This is a repost of the Oshkosh get togeather.
Only three more weeks now.
Cecil
> In the past, we have met at the table, briefly said hi to one
> another, then proceeded to listen to the goins on. I felt we didn't
> get to meet one another much.
>
> This year I am going to change that somewhat. Before we go inside
> there will be, as in the past, a get togeather outside on the grass,
> at a no host bar. This year I will have something to say RV LIST on
> it so we can gather there and get to put faces to names VIA the new
> name badges we all have now thanks to panelpilot.
>
> Pioneer Inn & Marina
> Saturday July 29, 2000
> 6:15pm to 7:30pm Cocktails
> 7:30pm to 9:30pm Dinner
> Midwest Buffet - $18.50 per person
>
> Those of you that would like to be at our table. Get yourself and
> friend (lover) on the list by sending a note to me off list to
> cecilth(at)juno.com
>
> NOTE NOTE: The list is growing every year. The number of people
> building RVs, is growing faster. The room at Pioneer Inn holds three
> hundred of us. DO THE MATH. Make sure your seat is reserved. Send
> Barbara your money now to reserve your spot. It won't do yourself
> any good to put yourself on my list unless you have a ticket.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mferrell(at)pstindy.org |
| Subject: | it is nice to get something that works! |
These Interior Flap Arm covers locate on both sides of the rear seat
inside the RV-4 and Harmon Rocket. They protect against object
interference of normal flap function. The Flap Arm Cover Kit comes
with approximate trim lines marked and rubber edge trim. Just trim
and mount.
"Got my covers this morning and now have them trimmed. The fit is
excellent
and not much problem to install. Just to let you know
it is nice to get something that works!"
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
For pictures of a mounted set or ordering information contact Matt
Ferrell at 317 834-2395 or mferrell(at)pstindy.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank questions |
The angle stock for my anti-rotation brackets were in a bag with wome other
small parts, such as the aileron bellcranks, it was just a little piece 2
1/2" long
Kevin Shannon
-9 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leaks |
Listers,
Has anyone had any luck trying automotive type gasket materials instead of
the cork gasket?
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
Yes. The rubber gasket supplied with the fuel gauges does not like being
exposed to the fuel all the time. It swells! I changed both of mine
shortly after the first few flights and replaced them with regular
automotive gasket material and sealer. I now have 90+ hrs. and no more
problems. Karl RV-8 711KN
-----Original Message-----
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM [SMTP:Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 10:46
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leaks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leaks |
Everyone I know told me to use the rubberized cork with a smearing of petroleum
jelly (borrowed from the medicine cabinet at home). The petroleum jelly or in my
case Vicks vapor rub acts as a sealing/wetting compound that keeps the cork from
drying out . Granted, anywhere the gas touches wipes the jelly away but the
wetness of the gas keeps the cork in condition. The Jelly keeps the cork not
immedietely touching the gas in wetted and good sealing condition. I also used
#8 screws with hex heads as my access plate screws; It allowed more even torque
to be applied with a socket. No leaks with 16 gallons ........so it worked for
me . BTW, I also used little "oh" or "O" rings, I mean really little ones,
rolled up the # 8 screw shaft, I then beveled the seat area with my step drill
or unibit. This bevel or mini-step from the unibit was the recess the o-ring was
squozed into (washer between the screw head and o-ring) when you tightened up
the access plate screws. No leaks with the 20 or so screws ..........
Im7shannon(at)aol.com on 07/05/2000 11:45:49 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leaks
Listers,
Has anyone had any luck trying automotive type gasket materials instead of
the cork gasket?
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RV Badges for Oshkosh Update Please Read if you have not received |
one!
Listers
I have just about finished all the badges, I am sending out the one's in
Canada this week, but have a few that ordered one but I haven't received your
mailers the names are as below
Ollie Washbum
Mike Thompson
Tom Yeager
Fred Kunkel
I have a few more that I have questions about I will list them below, please
email back and we can get these cleared up.
Carl Franz
Tim Lewis
Ed Cole
Judy & Glen Gordon
Terry Watson
Vince & Tammy Frazier
Terry Cole
I hope I haven't left anybody out or forgot this has been a major undertaking
and if I did miss one I will take care of it. Hope to see all of them at
Oshkosh !!!!!
Thanks
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gear legg intersection fairings |
Does any one have a recommended provider for the small fairings that go
between the gear fairing and the fuselage for a RV6A? If so please provide
me the address.
Thanks
Rod & Rollie
9922RQ (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear legg intersection fairings |
Are there after market intersection fairings available? I didn't know they
were available. Don't they have to be custom made for each aircraft?
-Glenn Gordon
Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Does any one have a recommended provider for the small fairings that go
> between the gear fairing and the fuselage for a RV6A? If so please provide
> me the address.
> Thanks
> Rod & Rollie
> 9922RQ (Reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear legg intersection fairings |
>
>
> Does any one have a recommended provider for the small fairings that go
> between the gear fairing and the fuselage for a RV6A? If so please provide
> me the address.
>
http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com
They got em but you got to use their gear leg fairings.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear legg intersection fairings |
Got my intersection fairings from Team Rocket but you will also need their
Gearleg Fairings as they are a molded set.
Team Rocket's are top quality and require a lot less finish work
than the fiberglas fairings that came with my RV6-A-QB kit.
Tom in
Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear legg intersection fairings
>
> Are there after market intersection fairings available? I didn't know
they
> were available. Don't they have to be custom made for each aircraft?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
> Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> >
> > Does any one have a recommended provider for the small fairings that go
> > between the gear fairing and the fuselage for a RV6A? If so please
provide
> > me the address.
> > Thanks
> > Rod & Rollie
> > 9922RQ (Reserved)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | prefab air scoops |
Does anybody know of a source of prefabricated air-scoops---automotive
duct?? I saw a off-center funnel type duct on a airplane at Sun'n'Fun
however I was unable to track down the owner.....it looked to be a
commercial produced unit with a approx. 3.5" diameter inlet. I asked a
racing shop in town but they were of no help. If any "car" guys know of a
web site, catalog, etc it would be of great help.
THX
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear legg intersection fairings |
I used a cut-down set of Team Rocket fairings. The F/G qualitity is among the
best I/ve seen. I simply sliced them open to fit onto the gear legs on my RV-4,
made a few sizing slices of long skinney pie or wedge shape(s), used electrical
tape to hold my new shape, then West epoxied some model/hobbie shop F/G cloth (
the Vans stuff is much to corse) on the inside to finish the shaping. I then
used Poly Fiber Epoxy filler to blend in my cuts/slices on the outside. The Rest
of the fairing needed NO sanding. Primed & shot my color, used a velcro scrub
skirt & the spring/hook/wire/#6 screw trick to mount. A lot of worry over me
hand-laying up a mess that I would never be happy with went out the window when
I used Team-Rockets units & the above re-fit method. Very little time was
actually consumed on the mini-project. I think I spent more time
worrying/fretting the issue over the years than actually doing it. (Seems like
most things in life)
I got a second pair of the Team Rocket Gear leg (upper) fairings at home---I
thought I would mess up my first pair-----so I ordered a second pair. Still
have the second pair if any wants to snag them. 60 bucks and there yours.
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net on 07/06/2000 05:02:13 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear legg intersection fairings
Got my intersection fairings from Team Rocket but you will also need their
Gearleg Fairings as they are a molded set.
Team Rocket's are top quality and require a lot less finish work
than the fiberglas fairings that came with my RV6-A-QB kit.
Tom in
Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear legg intersection fairings
>
> Are there after market intersection fairings available? I didn't know
they
> were available. Don't they have to be custom made for each aircraft?
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
> Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> >
> > Does any one have a recommended provider for the small fairings that go
> > between the gear fairing and the fuselage for a RV6A? If so please
provide
> > me the address.
> > Thanks
> > Rod & Rollie
> > 9922RQ (Reserved)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto Noise |
>
>
>>
>>Listers,
>>
>>Last week we (me, wife, 2 year old son) flew my RV-6A from Manassas VA to
>>Springfield MO for a visit with my parents. 6 hours total time, wonderful
>>trip, aircraft performed flawlessly. Yesterday I spent about 4.5 hrs
>>giving Young Eagles rides (@ SGF), and I noticed that my magneto, at high
>>rpm, is making just enough noise to break squelch on the King VHF radio,
>>some times.
>>
>>My P lead is a shielded wire. As I recall, the the mag is turned off by
>>connecting the P lead shield to the P lead center connector via the switch.
>> The P lead shield is always grounded at the switch side of the circuit.
>>
>>Diagnostics to date:
>>- Mag works fine on runup (1900 rpm, mag-only shows 100 rpm drop vs mag +
>>electronic ignition)
>>- The p-lead works, because I can turn off the mag (and the noise) with the
>>key switch.
>>- The noise from the mag is not always strong enough to break squelch. It
>>breaks squelch during run up, on the takeoff run, and occasionally in
>>flight.
>>
>>I left all my troubleshooting books back home in Virginia, so I'm looking
>>for ideas. I could adjust the squelch on the King radio a tad, but I could
>>just be masking a problem by doing that. Any ideas?
>>
>>Tim Lewis
Tim, is this a new condition? If you didn't havet he noise before
and it has just jumped up, something may have become disconnected
in the system . . . or something in the mag is starting to go south.
If it's a problem that might have been lurking around since day-one
and you've just now noticed it, try disconnecting the p-lead shield
ground from airframe ground at the switch end. Use p-lead shield to
PROVIDE ground for the magneto switch and ground the shield only
at the magneto end. Breaking this 'ground' loop (which is very common
in LOTS of airplanes) has cured about half of the magneto noise
problems I've encountered to date.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Tip Storage Lockers |
Anyone out there done these that can share their experience? Photos,
descriptions, tips, traps...
Or do you know of anyone that fits the above category that won't be reading
this.
The archive seem to be lacking the "how to" but it does have a couple of
names that I'm pursuing...
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR reserved
Putting stuff away so I can work on it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | prefab air scoops |
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies carries a variety of molded plastic air scoops:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Wings
mailto:cjh(at)execpc.com
-----Original Message-----
Does anybody know of a source of prefabricated air-scoops
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
Any one out there have any info to share about fixed pitch props for 160hp
RV-8's? i.e. What type, what pitch, static r.p.m. etc.
Thanks Karl RV-8 711KN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Cleveland, Oh area RVers |
I'm going to be in the Cleveland area from 7/12 - 7/24. I expect to need
a break from the in-laws at some point during this extended visit. Anyone
in the area who wouldnt mind a visit please contact me off-list.
Thanks,
Mike Wills
RV-4 engine stuff (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
>
>
> Any one out there have any info to share about fixed pitch props for
> 160hp
> RV-8's? i.e. What type, what pitch, static r.p.m. etc.
One good source is Van's web page:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=962907969-464-42&browse=props&product=sen-prop
Of course, these are for Sensenich fixed-pitch metal props.
Read carefully the second paragraph of that page - I have been
researching props myself and was getting different recommendations from
different sources - turns out, for instance, Sensenich recommends a
prop pitch for my RV-6 which is actually under-pitching an O-360 RV
which has the new pressure-recovery wheel pants and is otherwise fully
faired.
A contact at Sensenich admited that they based their RV-6 numbers on
tests using an older aircraft with the older fairings. So keep that in
mind when folks start giving you numbers. What is working for them may
not work the same for you.
Van's will have the best _compromise_ recommendation for you based on
your aircraft and engine. If you want to pitch it a little on the
climb or cruise side, you will have a good place to start.
Good luck!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
A common mistake is compairing the pitch numbers from a 160hp Sensenich with a
180hp Sensenich.....They are different props...with different pitch ranges
(climb,normal,cruse).
Engine Health, MP draw, rigging, trim ect....all add up (or down) so a specific
recommendation is hard. Try the proper Sensenich metal prop at the mid pitch
and fly it for a while then you can have the factory twist a inch in or out to
suit your specfic aircraft. This option is not available with a wood
prop........and certainly cheeper than the C/S option....
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com on 07/06/2000 02:41:45 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: props
>
>
> Any one out there have any info to share about fixed pitch props for
> 160hp
> RV-8's? i.e. What type, what pitch, static r.p.m. etc.
One good source is Van's web page:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=962907969-464-42&browse=props&product=sen-prop
Of course, these are for Sensenich fixed-pitch metal props.
Read carefully the second paragraph of that page - I have been
researching props myself and was getting different recommendations from
different sources - turns out, for instance, Sensenich recommends a
prop pitch for my RV-6 which is actually under-pitching an O-360 RV
which has the new pressure-recovery wheel pants and is otherwise fully
faired.
A contact at Sensenich admited that they based their RV-6 numbers on
tests using an older aircraft with the older fairings. So keep that in
mind when folks start giving you numbers. What is working for them may
not work the same for you.
Van's will have the best _compromise_ recommendation for you based on
your aircraft and engine. If you want to pitch it a little on the
climb or cruise side, you will have a good place to start.
Good luck!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear legg intersection fairings |
I am.
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear legg intersection fairings
>
>
> I used a cut-down set of Team Rocket fairings. The F/G qualitity is
among the
> best I/ve seen. I simply sliced them open to fit onto the gear legs on my
RV-4,
> made a few sizing slices of long skinney pie or wedge shape(s), used
electrical
> tape to hold my new shape, then West epoxied some model/hobbie shop F/G
cloth (
> the Vans stuff is much to corse) on the inside to finish the shaping. I
then
> used Poly Fiber Epoxy filler to blend in my cuts/slices on the outside.
The Rest
> of the fairing needed NO sanding. Primed & shot my color, used a velcro
scrub
> skirt & the spring/hook/wire/#6 screw trick to mount. A lot of worry
over me
> hand-laying up a mess that I would never be happy with went out the window
when
> I used Team-Rockets units & the above re-fit method. Very little time was
> actually consumed on the mini-project. I think I spent more time
> worrying/fretting the issue over the years than actually doing it. (Seems
like
> most things in life)
>
> I got a second pair of the Team Rocket Gear leg (upper) fairings at
home---I
> thought I would mess up my first pair-----so I ordered a second pair.
Still
> have the second pair if any wants to snag them. 60 bucks and there yours.
>
>
> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net on 07/06/2000 05:02:13 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear legg intersection fairings
>
>
> Got my intersection fairings from Team Rocket but you will also need their
> Gearleg Fairings as they are a molded set.
> Team Rocket's are top quality and require a lot less finish work
> than the fiberglas fairings that came with my RV6-A-QB kit.
> Tom in
> Ohio
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:15 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear legg intersection fairings
>
>
> >
> > Are there after market intersection fairings available? I didn't know
> they
> > were available. Don't they have to be custom made for each aircraft?
> >
> > -Glenn Gordon
> >
> >
> > Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Does any one have a recommended provider for the small fairings that
go
> > > between the gear fairing and the fuselage for a RV6A? If so please
> provide
> > > me the address.
> > > Thanks
> > > Rod & Rollie
> > > 9922RQ (Reserved)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Question |
If I may add a tidbit of information. the ailerons are
not subjected to the propwash as the elevators and
rudder are, so the induced stress is not applied on
the ailerons, so you do not need to add the rtv as a
result of this
Glenn
archive this one
--- Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >I am building my ailerons and I noticed that no
> where in the instructions
> >or in Orndorf's video do they mention RTV on the
> stiffeners. RTV was used
> >on the other control surfaces that used stiffeners.
> Is there any reason
> >why it is not used on the ailerons or are they just
> assuming that we will
> >continue the pattern and use it?
> >
> >Vince Welch
> >RV-8A Ailerons
> >
> Vince,
>
> I didn't use any RTV in the ailerons. The only
> cracks I have personally
> seen in any RV have been on the rudder. I have 108
> hours on the plane. No
> cracks.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " bert" <bertrv(at)rdtnet.net> |
| Subject: | Wings installation |
Hi:
Today I tri first time, to install left wing, in order
to check for connections of lines etc...
I cound not push the wing fully into fuselage, as
there was one plate nut, the one on top(out of
the three installed, approximately in center of
seats spar) which would interfere with the tip of
the wing spar....
What is the procedure to correct this? I have the rv6a Q.B kit..
Any one knows what I am talking about?
I would appreciate, your comments or direccions
the manual, as usually, just say Install wing, watching for the bottom skin
etc..
Thanks
Bert
Do No Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Storage Lockers |
Ralph,
Try Dan. He doesn't write on the list.
Dan Evelyn
E-mail Address(es):
drevelyn(at)hotmail.com
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 7:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Storage Lockers
>
> Anyone out there done these that can share their experience? Photos,
> descriptions, tips, traps...
>
> Or do you know of anyone that fits the above category that won't be
reading
> this.
>
> The archive seem to be lacking the "how to" but it does have a couple of
> names that I'm pursuing...
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB N822AR reserved
> Putting stuff away so I can work on it!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wings installation |
Bert, it sounds like you need to lift the wing tip a little higher. The spar
should slide in at the same angle as the floor.
Dave
bert wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> Today I tri first time, to install left wing, in order
> to check for connections of lines etc...
>
> I cound not push the wing fully into fuselage, as
> there was one plate nut, the one on top(out of
> the three installed, approximately in center of
> seats spar) which would interfere with the tip of
> the wing spar....
>
> What is the procedure to correct this? I have the rv6a Q.B kit..
>
> Any one knows what I am talking about?
>
> I would appreciate, your comments or direccions
> the manual, as usually, just say Install wing, watching for the bottom skin
> etc..
>
> Thanks
>
> Bert
>
> Do No Archive
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wings installation |
Bert,
It sounds to me like you are trying to insert the wing in a level
attitude. The wing spar hugs the floor skin, not the top of bulkhead
where the nutplates are.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
I pondered trying to run the fuel lines throught the holes in the gear
mounts and decided it was not the best place for my bird. I bent the
fuel lines around the gear leg mounts and out the fuselage side.
go to http://www.geocities.com/zilik/fin3.html and there is a picture
about half way down the page showing how I ran the fuel lines around the
gear leg mount.
hope this helps
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Polenske, Eugene O" <Eugene.Polenske(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
| Subject: | E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments |
I am ready to order my wing kit, and one of the options is for the IE FL-2C capacitive
fuel sender kit for the FL-2C. Should I order this or go with the FL-2R?
Is one type of instrument better then the other? Which one is easier to
install. I have no idea what a capacitive sender looks like (forgive my ignorance).
Is one type more dependable, accurate, maintenance free? Is there anything
else I need besides the $50.00 kit and the FL-2C. Do I need a kit for
each tank.
Any and all info. would be appreciated, I tried to call Van's today and ask and
never got through. The phone was always busy!
Thanks,
Gene Polenske
RV-8 Empenage almost complete READY to order wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Delano" <mdelano(at)mho.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leaks |
Tight Seal is a great product. I have used it for my 6A tanks and it works
great. It does not harden and glue things together as pro seal does , this
allows you to open the tans with out damage. I have also used it to seal
crankcase halves. It has been around a long time, I first used it in A&P
school in 1972. I have tried other products but always return to Tight Seal.
Mark Delano
Littleton CO
6a Fus
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Reposted for future e-searching
>
> akroguy(at)hotmail.com on 07/02/2000 10:28:07 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access Plate Sealing
>
>
> >
> >George Orndorf in his wing construction video mentions Tite Seal as the
> >sealant for the tank access plate.
> >In searching the archives I found only one reference to Tite Seal. It
> >was very positive by someone who said he had used it for all sorts of
> >fuel line and tank sealing for 25 years. The majority of comments on
> >sealing the access plate were for Pro Seal both with and without the
> >gasket. Some indicated no problem in re-opening the access plate after
> >sealing with Pro Seal.
> >I would be interested in any experiences with Tite Seal for the access
> >plate, good or bad. After viewing the videos, I purchased Tite Seal. I
> >will have to decide soon whether or not to use it or to just go ahead
> >with the Pro Seal (actually, it is the newer material per Mil S 8802F).
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Richard Dudley
> >RV-6A
> >Wings (tanks)
> >Orlando
>
> Richard,
>
> After using the cork gaskets and hylomar gasket dressing....I will NOT do
> the same again! Leaks o'plenty. I trashed the cork gaskets, cleaned the
> area with lacquer thinner and prosealed the covers on. NO more leaks. Nuff
> said.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 108 hrs.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments |
Gene,
Depends on what your priority is. The float senders and cheap gauges are
somewhere under $200 and accuracy may be good enough. Just make sure they
are adjusted to register "empty" accurately. You can use the float senders
and EI gauge for around $385 and I would guess accuracy will also increase
along with the $$. Or, you can go with the capacitance senders and the EI
gauge along with a converter for each tank for around $490. Accuracy should
again increase with the $$. I went the capacitance sender route. They are
very easy to install. My plane isn't flying yet so I don't know how
accurate they are. I did talk to Dick Martin, who designed the capacitance
system that Van's sells and he spoke very highly of them and said they are
very sensitive to changes in fuel level.
Gee, more decisions.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: Polenske, Eugene O <Eugene.Polenske(at)PSS.Boeing.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 8:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments
>
> I am ready to order my wing kit, and one of the options is for the IE
FL-2C capacitive fuel sender kit for the FL-2C. Should I order this or go
with the FL-2R? Is one type of instrument better then the other? Which
one is easier to install. I have no idea what a capacitive sender looks
like (forgive my ignorance). Is one type more dependable, accurate,
maintenance free? Is there anything else I need besides the $50.00 kit and
the FL-2C. Do I need a kit for each tank.
>
> Any and all info. would be appreciated, I tried to call Van's today and
ask and never got through. The phone was always busy!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene Polenske
> RV-8 Empenage almost complete READY to order wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments |
In a message dated 7/6/00 9:01:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
Eugene.Polenske(at)PSS.Boeing.com writes:
<< I am ready to order my wing kit, and one of the options is for the IE
FL-2C capacitive fuel sender kit for the FL-2C. Should I order this or go
with the FL-2R? Is one type of instrument better then the other? Which one
is easier to install. I have no idea what a capacitive sender looks like
(forgive my ignorance). Is one type more dependable, accurate, maintenance
free? Is there anything else I need besides the $50.00 kit and the FL-2C.
Do I need a kit for each tank.
Any and all info. would be appreciated, I tried to call Van's today and
ask and never got through. The phone was always busy! >>
Hi Gene,
I originally ordered the capacitive senders and changed my mind. My main
reason was eventual costs. In looking ahead, I would have to buy the E.I.
fuel gage at $435.00 (note that is for only one that has dual readings)
Then, to be consistent and make all my engine instruments look the same, I
would have to buy the other E.I. engine instruments at $400 to $500 a piece.
My finances are limited, so I decided to go with the Van's gages at $31 a
piece.
If money is not an issue for you, the E.I. instruments and capacitive senders
are very accurate and seem easy to install. The $50 buys you both sender
units and the hardware to make the install.
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments |
Gene, the Capacitive fuel senders only work with the EI style fueld guage
and take a special transducer (I think). These guages are over $250 whereas
the float type guages can be had for less than a hundred.
Since there are no moving part on the Cap guages I thought reliability and
accuracy would probably be better. If you are going to install a fuel flow
instrument then the Cap guages might be overkill, but I'm going with both
anyway.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Polenske, Eugene O" <Eugene.Polenske(at)PSS.Boeing.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 8:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments
>
> I am ready to order my wing kit, and one of the options is for the IE
FL-2C capacitive fuel sender kit for the FL-2C. Should I order this or go
with the FL-2R? Is one type of instrument better then the other? Which
one is easier to install. I have no idea what a capacitive sender looks
like (forgive my ignorance). Is one type more dependable, accurate,
maintenance free? Is there anything else I need besides the $50.00 kit and
the FL-2C. Do I need a kit for each tank.
>
> Any and all info. wold be appreciated, I tried to call Van's today and
ask and never got through. The phone was always busy!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene Polenske
> RV-8 Empenage almost complete READY to order wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
What does one do if he overlooked the rtv on the control surfaces?
Is there any thing you can pour down that would do same job.
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments |
Mike Nellis wrote:
>
>
> Gene, the Capacitive fuel senders only work with the EI style fueld guage
> and take a special transducer (I think). These guages are over $250 whereas
> the float type guages can be had for less than a hundred.
>
> Since there are no moving part on the Cap guages I thought reliability and
> accuracy would probably be better. If you are going to install a fuel flow
> instrument then the Cap guages might be overkill, but I'm going with both
> anyway.
I have had very good results with the EI guage and the mechanical
senders. I LUV the EI gauge and am glad I spent the extra money for it.
It has the cool feature of blinking at you when the fuel imbalance
between tanks reaches 1/4 tank.
I find at fueling stops that the fuel required is usually within a
gallon of what the gauge indicated. The only "glitch" is the
gauge/sender combo's inability to indicate more than 15 gallons in each
tank due to the wing dihedral. The senders hit the top of the tank
before the tank is completely full. Once the first four gallons are
burned off, the gauge is very accurate.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> How is the line run, from the fuel valve to the wings;I was planning to
run
> lines along side of the spar,
> to each wing, but then I saw a hole, about 1" on
> each gear mount.....what is this for? to run the fule
> lines?.... of course, once installed, you cound not
> remove the support gear, if ever needed, without
> cutting thru line....
> Your comments would be appreciated...
Hi Bert,
I called the factory on this one about a month ago. I asked if I could run
my fuel line through this hole and then drill another one for a second fuel
line (needed for the Airflow system). They said that would be fine. We did
talk about exactly where the second hole would be. They never said that the
hole was put there for this purpose, they just said it was OK to put a fuel
line through.
I like the compact, protected installation using these holes. No one could
ever kick the lines with their heels. I wonder what the percentage of
builders is that is using them.
I really couldn't see ever taking off the gear weldment. If you ever had to,
yes you would have to cut a fuel line but they are very easy to make. One of
the easier things late in the game here.
Have a good weekend,
See you at Arlington Saturday.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert.Baxter(at)shell.ca |
| Subject: | amount of wire required for project |
I'm finishing up my wings and ready to fish wires for strobes, position,
taxi and landing lights. I was wondering if any builders who are flying
or near the end of the finishing kit could give me a ballpark figure on
total tefzel wire quanities for their project.
My RV-8 will be night VFR (possibly IFR) with manual pitch trim.
I want to buy most of the wire I will need in 1 purchase ( seem to spend
a lot of building time chasing "widgets") so I'm trying to be a little
more efficient.
If someone can tell me the amount of 14awg, 16awg, 18awg and so on it
will save me trying to figure it out without a fuse and panel.
thanks in advance
Rob Baxter Sarnia Ontario
RV-8 fuel tanks 95%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
What does one do if he overlooked the rtv on the control surfaces?
Is there any thing you can pour down that would do same job.
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments |
Mike Nellis wrote:
>
>
> Gene, the Capacitive fuel senders only work with the EI style fueld guage
> and take a special transducer (I think). These guages are over $250 whereas
> the float type guages can be had for less than a hundred.
>
> Since there are no moving part on the Cap guages I thought reliability and
> accuracy would probably be better. If you are going to install a fuel flow
> instrument then the Cap guages might be overkill, but I'm going with both
> anyway.
I have had very good results with the EI guage and the mechanical
senders. I LUV the EI gauge and am glad I spent the extra money for it.
It has the cool feature of blinking at you when the fuel imbalance
between tanks reaches 1/4 tank.
I find at fueling stops that the fuel required is usually within a
gallon of what the gauge indicated. The only "glitch" is the
gauge/sender combo's inability to indicate more than 15 gallons in each
tank due to the wing dihedral. The senders hit the top of the tank
before the tank is completely full. Once the first four gallons are
burned off, the gauge is very accurate.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> How is the line run, from the fuel valve to the wings;I was planning to
run
> lines along side of the spar,
> to each wing, but then I saw a hole, about 1" on
> each gear mount.....what is this for? to run the fule
> lines?.... of course, once installed, you cound not
> remove the support gear, if ever needed, without
> cutting thru line....
> Your comments would be appreciated...
Hi Bert,
I called the factory on this one about a month ago. I asked if I could run
my fuel line through this hole and then drill another one for a second fuel
line (needed for the Airflow system). They said that would be fine. We did
talk about exactly where the second hole would be. They never said that the
hole was put there for this purpose, they just said it was OK to put a fuel
line through.
I like the compact, protected installation using these holes. No one could
ever kick the lines with their heels. I wonder what the percentage of
builders is that is using them.
I really couldn't see ever taking off the gear weldment. If you ever had to,
yes you would have to cut a fuel line but they are very easy to make. One of
the easier things late in the game here.
Have a good weekend,
See you at Arlington Saturday.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: amount of wire required for project |
I am also interested in this information....as I would like to do the same
thing.
Bill
-4
----- Original Message -----
From: <Robert.Baxter(at)shell.ca>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 3:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: amount of wire required for project
>
> I'm finishing up my wings and ready to fish wires for strobes, position,
> taxi and landing lights. I was wondering if any builders who are flying
> or near the end of the finishing kit could give me a ballpark figure on
> total tefzel wire quanities for their project.
> My RV-8 will be night VFR (possibly IFR) with manual pitch trim.
>
> I want to buy most of the wire I will need in 1 purchase ( seem to spend
> a lot of building time chasing "widgets") so I'm trying to be a little
> more efficient.
> If someone can tell me the amount of 14awg, 16awg, 18awg and so on it
> will save me trying to figure it out without a fuse and panel.
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Rob Baxter Sarnia Ontario
> RV-8 fuel tanks 95%
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I would worry about a mass/ballance problem if you poured something down there.
That kind of stuff is rather heavy. Having a mass on the trailing edge might
cause unwanted things like mass ballance problems, flutter and all. I would not
fret, finish the project & go flying........
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net on 07/07/2000 12:47:08 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RTV
What does one do if he overlooked the rtv on the control surfaces?
Is there any thing you can pour down that would do same job.
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E. I. Inc. Fuel level instruments |
Mike: I used the EI Resistance indicator in my last RV. They were nice,
but overkill as they have the same error as any indicator above about 15
gallons, due to the sender reaching the top of the tank at that level. I
thought the analog lights were neat at first but after awhile the constant
blinking of the caution lights was a distraction. This project I am using
the Van's style as they are uniform with the rest of my indicators. You
could always go with the cheap indicators and change to the EI resistance
later if you don't like the Van's style, they both use the same SW style
sender.
Harvey Sigmon - Final stuff
----- Original Message -----
>
> Mike Nellis wrote:
> >
> >
> > Gene, the Capacitive fuel senders only work with the EI style fueld
guage
> > and take a special transducer (I think). These guages are over $250
whereas
> > the float type guages can be had for less than a hundred.
> >
> > Since there are no moving part on the Cap guages I thought reliability
and
> > accuracy would probably be better. If you are going to install a fuel
flow
> > instrument then the Cap guages might be overkill, but I'm going with
both
> > anyway.
>
>
> I have had very good results with the EI guage and the mechanical
> senders. I LUV the EI gauge and am glad I spent the extra money for it.
> It has the cool feature of blinking at you when the fuel imbalance
> between tanks reaches 1/4 tank.
>
> I find at fueling stops that the fuel required is usually within a
> gallon of what the gauge indicated. The only "glitch" is the
> gauge/sender combo's inability to indicate more than 15 gallons in each
> tank due to the wing dihedral. The senders hit the top of the tank
> before the tank is completely full. Once the first four gallons are
> burned off, the gauge is very accurate.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Armstrong <Robert.Armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
Mike,
You can add the RTV after assembly by carefully bending a piece of 1/4
inch fuel line to reach through the nutplate holes in the front spar.
By carefully bending the tubing, you can reach most of the stiffeners.
Squirt a glob of RTV into one end of the tube and connect the other end
to your air nozzle using a short piece of rubber hose. Set the pressure
to about 30 psi and blow the RTV out into the desired location. The RTV
"plug" will take a while to blow out of the tubing because of the high
viscosity, so be patient.
It worked on my -8A rudder...
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Comeaux
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 10:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: RTV
What does one do if he overlooked the rtv on the control surfaces?
Is there any thing you can pour down that would do same job.
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Date: Friday, July 07, 2000 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Lines
>
>> How is the line run, from the fuel valve to the wings;I was planning to
>run
>> lines along side of the spar,
>> to each wing, but then I saw a hole, about 1" on
>> each gear mount.....what is this for? to run the fule
>> lines?.... of course, once installed, you cound not
>> remove the support gear, if ever needed, without
>> cutting thru line....
>> Your comments would be appreciated...
>
>Hi Bert,
>
>>
If you ever had to,
>yes you would have to cut a fuel line but they are very easy to make. One
of
>the easier things late in the game here.
>
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A Delta BC
>
Norman,
You must have extraordinary tubing-bending skills! Wish you were around
here when I made mine. I had to remake my fuel lines so many times that I
was tempted to use flexible hose. I learned that it is not so flexible and
requires larger radius bends than aluminum, so I finally made some aluminum
lines that look decent. Going through the hole in the weldment seemed much
more difficult for me so I routed the line under the legs of the mount and
they are pretty well protected.
Dennis Persyk FWF end in sight
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Tip Storage Lockers |
I installed wing tip storage lockers on my RV-6A. On the underside of the wing
tip I cut a 20"x12" (approx) door. The door starts around the vicinity of the
wing spar, and extends aft. (There's a picture of a similar door, on the TOP
of the wing tip, in "16 years of the RVAtor" in the "options" section.) I attached
the door to the wing tip with piano hinge on the outboard side of the
door. I riveted an aluminum lip (similar to that used on the oil door) against
which the door closes. On the inboard edge of the door (opposite the hinge)
I used 4 dome head screws to hold the door shut (with matching platenuts installed
in the aluminum lip).
To add more storage capacity, I cut out the metal between the two largest lightening
holes in the outboard aft wing rib. I reinforced the rib (upper and lower)
with J channel. Then I closed up the second aft inboard rib's lightening
holes with thin aluminum sheet to keep stuff from getting further into the wing.
I also closed the holes in the outboard nose rib with thin aluminum sheet.
Result: I can carry about 1 small carry-on suitcase worth of baggage in each wing
tip. We pack our clothes and stuff in two gallon zip lock bags, and stuff
the bags in the wintip lockers. It works fine. My wife, 2 year old son, and
I flew 750 n mi with enough clothes for a week stowed in the wing tips. We're
sitting on the ground rather than flying back home today because the 2 year
old is sick (bummer).
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
There you go again Dennis being modest. What is "decent" to Dennis is
pretty much perfect to the rest of the world. Check it out!
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/images/DCP00832.JPG
Mike
=so I finally made some aluminum
> lines that look decent. Going through the hole in the weldment seemed
much
> more difficult for me so I routed the line under the legs of the mount and
> they are pretty well protected.
>
> Dennis Persyk FWF end in sight
> Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Flight Test Update #3 |
This is a quick update on the results of my flight testing. So far, I have
16.3 hours on N417G. Only two activities left to complete. One, I need to
calculate best angle and best rate climb speeds. Two, I need to fly at
gross weight and conduct slow flight, stalls, takeoffs, and landings.
Today, the weather finally broke. A stalled front all week had left temps
in the 90's and humidity near 100 %. Result was a lot of building cumulus
beginning at 9:00 am and ending in storms by the end of the day. A lot of
turbulence and not fun.
Got up at 4:30 am this morning to fly early. Sky was clear, air was cool
(so was the pilot and his bird). Completed final cross country fuel flow
and TAS tests. I've been getting real good fuel economy, I hope as a result
of my Lasar electronic ignition system. Since I haven't calculated percent
power, I use RPMs at the same altitude and temps to calculate fuel flow. I
know that performance will change as the weather does, but I just wanted
comparative numbers to determine best cruise RPM for a given set of
conditions.
For what it's worth for anyone interested:
At 5500 MSL and 65 F, I've gotten 158 KTAS and 10.4 gal/hr at 2550 RPM; 140
KTAS and 7.0 gal/hr at 2300 RPM; and 120 KTAS and 6.4 gal/hr at 2000 RPM.
Again, mine is a fully faired and painted RV-6 with O-320 and Sensenich
fixed pitch prop, slider and low pressure wheel pants.
Two additional things I've found. I used springs to hold the gear leg
intersection fairings in place. They were riding down on the gear leg a
little. Don't know why, maybe to let cooling air escape. In any event, I
mounted nutplates and used screws to mount them to the cowling. Second, I
had to remove the wheel pants and wheel/tires to tighten up the attaching
bolts. I was surprised at how loose they had become. Maybe the thermal
cycling had loosened them. I repacked the wheel bearings and tightened
things back up.
Otherwise, the airplane is exceeding every one of my expectations.
Comfortable, quick, and so much fun. Today's crosswind landing was pretty
good too. Boy, life is sweet right now.
Keep pounding those rivets. You're going to love that thing.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (16.3 hrs)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
I am about to rivet my right elevator skin to the skeleton. There is one
place that oilcans, and I am contemplating gluing a piece of styrofoam to
the inside of the skin. I believe I read something like that here on the
list and was wondering if anybody has some thoughts on this procedure. I
know that a lot of folks say to go ahead and rivet the control surface
together and the oilcanning will go away, but I'm not too sure.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Try this guy too:
Bobby Osborn
Bobby's Planes 'N Parts inc.
9061 F.M. 1885
Weatherford, TX. 76088
PH 940 682 4220
Fax 940 682 4264
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of bert
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 5:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lyc. Engine
It is time I start looking for an engine, for
my rv....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse jig available soon |
My RV-8 should be out of the jig within two weeks and the jig itself is
available to anyone who needs it. It's built according to the plans (of
2x6, 2x4, 1x4 & 1/2" plywood construction) and is taking up a great deal
of space in my garage. I wouldn't mind getting back the $50 or so which
the materials cost, but I'd ultimately just like it out of my way. If
no one takes it by the end of the month, I'm cutting it up for use on
other projects.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
preparing to rivet fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Jim, I just called vans about this very thing. I was told that it will be
more cosmetic and should not interfere with flight. It is true that after you
rivet, much of the oil caning will disappear. As one told me, go to local
airport and push on some rudder/ elevators of some production aircraft, guess
what, THEY ALL OIL CAN. bob in Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Storage Lockers |
Tim......this is very similar to what I am doing (haven't cut my tips yet
but have modified O.B. rib's)......do you have any pictures?
Rob Baxter Sarnia Ont.
wings & fuel tanks 95%
100LL just increased 15c a litre here to $1.08..........ouch
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 11:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing Tip Storage Lockers
>
> I installed wing tip storage lockers on my RV-6A. On the underside of the
wing tip I cut a 20"x12" (approx) door. The door starts around the vicinity
of the wing spar, and extends aft. (There's a picture of a similar door, on
the TOP of the wing tip, in "16 years of the RVAtor" in the "options"
section.) I attached the door to the wing tip with piano hinge on the
outboard side of the door. I riveted an aluminum lip (similar to that used
on the oil door) against which the door closes. On the inboard edge of the
door (opposite the hinge) I used 4 dome head screws to hold the door shut
(with matching platenuts installed in the aluminum lip).
>
> To add more storage capacity, I cut out the metal between the two largest
lightening holes in the outboard aft wing rib. I reinforced the rib (upper
and lower) with J channel. Then I closed up the second aft inboard rib's
lightening holes with thin aluminum sheet to keep stuff from getting further
into the wing. I also closed the holes in the outboard nose rib with thin
aluminum sheet.
>
> Result: I can carry about 1 small carry-on suitcase worth of baggage in
each wing tip. We pack our clothes and stuff in two gallon zip lock bags,
and stuff the bags in the wintip lockers. It works fine. My wife, 2 year
old son, and I flew 750 n mi with enough clothes for a week stowed in the
wing tips. We're sitting on the ground rather than flying back home today
because the 2 year old is sick (bummer).
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Lister's,
I weighed my 8A N783MS last night.
1100 lbs using EAA Chapter 168's Dallas, TX scales.
Aircraft partculars:
IO-360-A1A 200hp
Hartzell C/S
Full Gyro Panel
UPS Radios SL30, SL 70, SL15
MD200 Glideslope indicator
Six Primary Flight Instruments
EI - EGT/CHT
All of Van's Engine Instrument Gages
Airflow performace boost pump
Hooker Harnesses
Seats & Cushions by GBI
All Airframe primed in assembly
Cockpit primed & painted with S/W Automotive Paint
G/S & Loc Antenna in VS
Com & Transp Antenna on belly
Wheel Pants & Fairing installed
I am pleased with the weight. Van's 8A prototype is 1120lbs finished, I
don't think I will be much more than that.
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX
FAA inspection soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barstad, Are" <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com> |
| Subject: | Where to install S-Tec roll servo for RV-8 |
I am ordering the roll servo and harness for the S-Tec System-30 autopilot.
The vendor however needs to know how many feet harness I need from the servo
to the attitude indicator and H.S.I. Obviously, the H.S.I and attitude
indicator will be side-by-side but the vendor told me that RV builders had
more than one way of installing the servo.
I haven't started on the wings yet but will start in about two moths. The
lead-time for the servo and harness is over 2 months so I have to order it
early.
Any suggestions where to install the S-Tec roll servo?
I decided to wait with the pitch servo since I understand it's fairly easy
to install later, in the fuselage I think.
Are
RV-8 C-GQRV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>Les Rowles wrote:
>
> Les,
> Could you forward me a copy of the list? address is jsp(at)sprintmail.com Thanks
>
> How about putting it on the lists FTP server.
PL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to install S-Tec roll servo for RV-8 |
Are,
I don't know who you're ordering your roll servo from but all STEC roll servos
are the same, except for voltage rating. Now to answer your question. The roll
servo is normally installed out in the wing next to the aileron bellcrank to
which it connects via a pushrod. I've heard of some RV'ers that install the roll
servo under one of the seats. In any case, it must be a spot that has easy
access to the aileron control system and linkage. In my installation (a Glasair
III so I doubt if it applies), the roll servo is in the left wing bay mounted to
its own access panel next to the aileron bellcrank. A harness extension runs
from the servo to the seat pan area where it mates to the main autopilot
harness.
I'm puzzled, the STEC 30 ( none of the STEC systems for that matter) does not
connect to the attitude indicator. It's a rate based autopilot and gets all of
its stabilization from its own T&B indicator that replaces the standard T&B in
the airplane. It would need to connect to the HSI for L/R steering or nav
information. Pitch information (altitude hold and VS select) is obtained from
it's own sensor.
I'm sure Van's has a roll servo install kit and plans for the STEC. Give them a
call.
Bruce
"Barstad, Are" wrote:
>
> I am ordering the roll servo and harness for the S-Tec System-30 autopilot.
> The vendor however needs to know how many feet harness I need from the servo
> to the attitude indicator and H.S.I. Obviously, the H.S.I and attitude
> indicator will be side-by-side but the vendor told me that RV builders had
> more than one way of installing the servo.
>
> I haven't started on the wings yet but will start in about two moths. The
> lead-time for the servo and harness is over 2 months so I have to order it
> early.
>
> Any suggestions where to install the S-Tec roll servo?
>
> I decided to wait with the pitch servo since I understand it's fairly easy
> to install later, in the fuselage I think.
>
> Are
> RV-8 C-GQRV (reserved)
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Where to install S-Tec roll servo for RV-8 |
Thanks Bruce, and yes you're right: I meant the included S-Tec T&B
indicator, not a stand-alone. I guess I chose the wrong words. The price I
was quoted wasn't too bad though: $1500cdn for the servo and $850cdn for the
harness. That will be about $1800 US for both plus it's local as opposed to
brokerage fees etc.
I'll ask Van's regardless though - they seem to have very reasonable prices
although I haven't seen the S-Tec equipment in their catalog. I like to
certify my -8 IFR so the Navaid autopilot/T&B indicator is not an option for
me - at least here in Canada.
The vendor told me that S-Tec used to supply one specific length of the
harness for the RV's but stopped doing it since they ended up selling patch
cords depending on where in the wing the builder installed the servo.
Regards,
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Sent: July 7, 2000 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to install S-Tec roll servo for RV-8
Are,
I don't know who you're ordering your roll servo from but all STEC roll
servos
are the same, except for voltage rating. Now to answer your question. The
roll
servo is normally installed out in the wing next to the aileron bellcrank to
which it connects via a pushrod. I've heard of some RV'ers that install the
roll
servo under one of the seats. In any case, it must be a spot that has easy
access to the aileron control system and linkage. In my installation (a
Glasair
III so I doubt if it applies), the roll servo is in the left wing bay
mounted to
its own access panel next to the aileron bellcrank. A harness extension runs
from the servo to the seat pan area where it mates to the main autopilot
harness.
I'm puzzled, the STEC 30 ( none of the STEC systems for that matter) does
not
connect to the attitude indicator. It's a rate based autopilot and gets all
of
its stabilization from its own T&B indicator that replaces the standard T&B
in
the airplane. It would need to connect to the HSI for L/R steering or nav
information. Pitch information (altitude hold and VS select) is obtained
from
it's own sensor.
I'm sure Van's has a roll servo install kit and plans for the STEC. Give
them a
call.
Bruce
"Barstad, Are" wrote:
>
> I am ordering the roll servo and harness for the S-Tec System-30
autopilot.
> The vendor however needs to know how many feet harness I need from the
servo
> to the attitude indicator and H.S.I. Obviously, the H.S.I and attitude
> indicator will be side-by-side but the vendor told me that RV builders had
> more than one way of installing the servo.
>
> I haven't started on the wings yet but will start in about two moths. The
> lead-time for the servo and harness is over 2 months so I have to order it
> early.
>
> Any suggestions where to install the S-Tec roll servo?
>
> I decided to wait with the pitch servo since I understand it's fairly easy
> to install later, in the fuselage I think.
>
> Are
> RV-8 C-GQRV (reserved)
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | VM-1000 amp transducer |
I am trying to mount the transducer for the amp gauge and can not
understand where they want it. I have a wire from the BAT connection on
the alternator to the regulator, and then a wire from the regulator to the
circuit breaker. I assume they want it between the regulator and the
breaker, but am not sure. They also say to have the black plastic piece
face out. Out of where...away from the alternator (I assume) or away from
the breaker or regulator? Also they mention a fifth wire (red) from the
bus + to the J4-13. Is this a separate wire?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder skeleton questions |
I sent these questions to Van's a couple of days ago and didn't get an answer yet...they
probably haven't been able to get to it yet...so I thought I'd pose
these questions to fellow listers as well. I'm working on the rudder skeleton
and I need some help...
1) I didn't drill or dimple/countersink the holes in the R-404 for the CS4-4s
before riveting the R-410 to the rudder spar and horn (didn't realize that the
rivets would be countersinks...) am I correct in presuming that I can
countersink the holes, since the R-410 is underneath? Or will I have to
disassemble those parts in order to dimple them?
2) I noticed that there are three holes on each side of the R-404, where it
mates with the sides of the R-410, that take the CS4-4s...and in between those
holes and the R-802 spar, there is one hole that presumably takes a solid
rivet, since it's not marked for a CS4-4. Just curious...since I think I
could buck solid rivets in at least one, maybe two of the holes on each side
that are marked for the CS4-4s...are the pop rivets necessary, or can I
substitute solid rivets? I just happen to have a plumb bob that would fit
nicely in there and is heavy enough to do a decent job on those rivets...and
it seemed odd to me that if pop rivets were required, they'd be on all four
holes on each side along the R-410.
3) Finally, any suggestions on how to buck the four AD4-6 rivets that join
the R-410 to the bottom of the R-405? That same plumb bob won't fit sideways
into the cavity formed by the R-410 (unless I use three or four cutoff wheels
to cut off the tip - !), and I don't have a bucking bar that will fit...I looked
at
Home Depot for a machinist's square as was suggested in the "Bunny's Guide"
but the only ones they had in stock had plastic or wood bases...anyone have any
ideas?
Semper Fi
John Lawson
RV-6 tail kit...HS and VS done...puzzling out the rudder and elevators...
itching to get his hands on the wing kit...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Storage Lockers |
As a voice of minor experience, all of you builders considering using your
RVs for camping should consider this modification a must. We just stuffed
our -6A with the stuff needed for some wilderness camping in Idaho, and
stuffed is the word. Being able to put the sleeping bags and other very
light, stuffable but bulky pieces in the wingtips would make a major
difference. I might even consider doing it now as a retrofit, even though
the paint is dry, in good shape and polyurethane Enamel that you can't touch
up.
Bruce Patton
596S, flying a bunch
________________________________________________________________________________
I put RTV in the rudder, finished the elevators a few years later & forgot
all about putting in RTV. They are now balanced & installed & I have NO plans
of doing anything about it. "If" any cracks do develop, I'll slightly worry
about it then.
Larry Adamson RV6A - finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Bill
I understand your point, but....
I am sorry to see you go !!!!!!!!!!
Gert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 7/7/00 8:57:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, pagan(at)cboss.com
writes:
<< pagan(at)cboss.com >>
e mail me off list. i will be in Midland Pa. next thurs-grew up there,
visiting parents. looking for an engine. bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
Might as well try and sell some tools while I'm at it. Added a list of
tools to my website. This is a great deal for new or potential builders.
Ask around. You're going to spend more on tools than you think!!
Bill Pagan
http://www.Geocities.com/Capecanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
N565BW 1st Flight 12/19/99
Last Flight 4/1/00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C & M Ross" <ross.cm(at)home.com> |
I wouldn't put st;yrofoam in there - if you do make sure it's the water
resistant (blue) type as the white stuff can hold many times it's weight in
water. Cessna tried the same thing for a while and it caused corrision
problems. Chuck in Vernon B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 12:01 PM
>
> I am about to rivet my right elevator skin to the skeleton. There is one
> place that oilcans, and I am contemplating gluing a piece of styrofoam to
> the inside of the skin. I believe I read something like that here on the
> list and was wondering if anybody has some thoughts on this procedure. I
> know that a lot of folks say to go ahead and rivet the control surface
> together and the oilcanning will go away, but I'm not too sure.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A N143DJ (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pagan <pagan(at)cboss.com> |
Thanks!
>
>Bill
>
>I understand your point, but....
>
>I am sorry to see you go !!!!!!!!!!
>
>
>Gert
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skeleton questions |
In a message dated 7/7/00 9:11:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jwlawson(at)hargray.com writes:
<< 1) I didn't drill or dimple/countersink the holes in the R-404 for the
CS4-4s
before riveting the R-410 to the rudder spar and horn (didn't realize that
the
rivets would be countersinks...) am I correct in presuming that I can
countersink the holes, since the R-410 is underneath? Or will I have to
disassemble those parts in order to dimple them?
2) I noticed that there are three holes on each side of the R-404, where it
mates with the sides of the R-410, that take the CS4-4s...and in between
those
holes and the R-802 spar, there is one hole that presumably takes a solid
rivet, since it's not marked for a CS4-4. Just curious...since I think I
could buck solid rivets in at least one, maybe two of the holes on each side
that are marked for the CS4-4s...are the pop rivets necessary, or can I
substitute solid rivets? I just happen to have a plumb bob that would fit
nicely in there and is heavy enough to do a decent job on those rivets...and
it seemed odd to me that if pop rivets were required, they'd be on all four
holes on each side along the R-410.
3) Finally, any suggestions on how to buck the four AD4-6 rivets that join
the R-410 to the bottom of the R-405? That same plumb bob won't fit sideways
into the cavity formed by the R-410 (unless I use three or four cutoff wheels
to cut off the tip - !), and I don't have a bucking bar that will fit...I
looked at
Home Depot for a machinist's square as was suggested in the "Bunny's Guide"
but the only ones they had in stock had plastic or wood bases...anyone have
any
ideas?
Semper Fi
John Lawson >>
John,
One thing you'll learn is that if you can describe the part (instead of using
a part number), you'll get more responses. Most folks (myself included) are
too lazy to go digging up blueprints and/or plans to figure out what parts
you're working on.
However, I managed to get motivated tonight and dig out a blueprint that I've
not looked at in years..., so here ya go:
1) I'd be tempted to disassemble the parts and dimple this stuff. You could
countersink if the top part (the R-404) is 0.032 or thicker, but I think
you'll be happier with dimples there, especially if you're building a -6,
rather than a 6A.
2) Anywhere you can use solid rivets, go ahead.
3) These are a bear to rivet. If you don't have a bar that fits, simply buy
yourself a few cherrymax rivets from Aircraft Spruce or equivalent. They are
as strong as the driven rivets, but cost about $0.50 each, so use 'em
sparingly. I drove the rivets I could in this area (I think I use a squeezer
on a couple of 'em), then used pops in the unreachable holes.
Good luck!
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 Almost done...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 amp transducer |
Hi Jim,
Assuming you are interested in measuring the alternator output, you want
the amp transducer somewhere on the big fat wire running between the
alternator and your electrical system interconnect point. It could be
installed prior to or after the alternator circuit breaker. Your description
sounded like you were describing the smaller field wire that runs from the
voltage regulator to the alternator. Be careful not to ground out any of the
wires when securing the circuit board in the airframe. The backside of the
circuit board contains contact areas close to the mounting holes in the
board.
The black side of the transducer refers to the side with the components
mounted on it. The transducer is black hence the reference. The other side
is just the circuit board and is flat. You want the blackside facing
downstream of the current i.e. away from the alternator.
If I remember correctly, there are only four wires coming from the
transducer to the DPU. I'll check and confirm with my manual tomorrow.
Cheers,
Tom Brown RV4 at airport, signed off, almost flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skeleton questions |
Question #3 - I used either a longeron yoke or a 3" yoke (can't remember
which) to and was able to squeeze all of the the rivets that join the R410
to the R405. Bill VonDane did a nice job of describing how he bucked those
same rivets. Check out the pictures on his website at the bottom of this
page. http://vondane.com/rv8a/rudder/index.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder skeleton questions
>
> In a message dated 7/7/00 9:11:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jwlawson(at)hargray.com writes:
>
> << 1) I didn't drill or dimple/countersink the holes in the R-404 for the
> CS4-4s
> before riveting the R-410 to the rudder spar and horn (didn't realize
that
> the
> rivets would be countersinks...) am I correct in presuming that I can
> countersink the holes, since the R-410 is underneath? Or will I have to
> disassemble those parts in order to dimple them?
>
> 2) I noticed that there are three holes on each side of the R-404, where
it
> mates with the sides of the R-410, that take the CS4-4s...and in between
> those
> holes and the R-802 spar, there is one hole that presumably takes a solid
> rivet, since it's not marked for a CS4-4. Just curious...since I think I
> could buck solid rivets in at least one, maybe two of the holes on each
side
> that are marked for the CS4-4s...are the pop rivets necessary, or can I
> substitute solid rivets? I just happen to have a plumb bob that would
fit
> nicely in there and is heavy enough to do a decent job on those
rivets...and
> it seemed odd to me that if pop rivets were required, they'd be on all
four
> holes on each side along the R-410.
>
> 3) Finally, any suggestions on how to buck the four AD4-6 rivets that
join
> the R-410 to the bottom of the R-405? That same plumb bob won't fit
sideways
> into the cavity formed by the R-410 (unless I use three or four cutoff
wheels
> to cut off the tip - !), and I don't have a bucking bar that will fit...I
> looked at
> Home Depot for a machinist's square as was suggested in the "Bunny's
Guide"
> but the only ones they had in stock had plastic or wood bases...anyone
have
> any
> ideas?
>
> Semper Fi
> John Lawson >>
>
> John,
>
> One thing you'll learn is that if you can describe the part (instead of
using
> a part number), you'll get more responses. Most folks (myself included)
are
> too lazy to go digging up blueprints and/or plans to figure out what parts
> you're working on.
>
> However, I managed to get motivated tonight and dig out a blueprint that
I've
> not looked at in years..., so here ya go:
>
> 1) I'd be tempted to disassemble the parts and dimple this stuff. You
could
> countersink if the top part (the R-404) is 0.032 or thicker, but I think
> you'll be happier with dimples there, especially if you're building a -6,
> rather than a 6A.
>
> 2) Anywhere you can use solid rivets, go ahead.
>
> 3) These are a bear to rivet. If you don't have a bar that fits, simply
buy
> yourself a few cherrymax rivets from Aircraft Spruce or equivalent. They
are
> as strong as the driven rivets, but cost about $0.50 each, so use 'em
> sparingly. I drove the rivets I could in this area (I think I use a
squeezer
> on a couple of 'em), then used pops in the unreachable holes.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Kyle Boatright
> RV-6 Almost done...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: VM-1000 amp transducer |
In a message dated 7/7/00 6:21:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jcimino(at)epix.net
writes:
<< I am trying to mount the transducer for the amp gauge and cannot
understand where they want it. I have a wire from the BAT connection on
the alternator to the regulator, and then a wire from the regulator to the
circuit breaker. I assume they want it between the regulator and the
breaker, but am not sure. They also say to have the black plastic piece
face out. Out of where...away from the alternator (I assume) or away from
the breaker or regulator? Also they mention a fifth wire (red) from the
bus + to the J4-13. Is this a separate wire? >>
The wires from the circuit breaker to the regulator and the regulator to the
alternator control the field (rotor). The alternator output is a larger
terminal. The Amp transducer goes on the B lead (8-10 AWG) running from this
alternator output (stator) to the switched side of the master contactor (or
the input to the starter contactor).
The black plastic side of the sensor faces downstream of the alternator in
order to give a positive reading on the gauge. My system is around 4 yrs old
but I assume that the sensor is similar, so there should be 4 other wires and
a shield that connect to J4 pins 12 thru 15. Check out the diagrams at
www.aeroelectric.com for greater clarity of the overall charging system.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to install S-Tec roll servo for RV-8 |
I suggest not installing the servo in the wing. I am installing mine in the
fuselage. S-Tec has some photos of a roll and pitch servo installation in
an 8 they can email to you, however, I didn't like the location of the roll
servo (next to the right foot well) as the builder had to remove a bunch of
structure. I can email you a photo of my servo installation if you wish.
It's not installed now, but I can place it in the fuselage and show you my
location. I don't believe Van's has any info on S-Tec installations, as
S-Tec themselves have no installation drawings for an 8.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 591 #@#* landing gear install
Samammish WA
----- Original Message -----
From: Barstad, Are <BarstadA(at)bis.adp.com>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 3:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Where to install S-Tec roll servo for RV-8
>
> I am ordering the roll servo and harness for the S-Tec System-30 autopilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Where to install S-Tec roll servo for RV-8 |
Are,
I installed my servo in the right wing using the RV-6 install kit. I
understand, however, most guys are putting their's in the fuselage. It
required a fair amount of modification to install in the wing; I believe the
fuselage would be easier. If you would like detailed information on my
method of wing mounting please e-mail off line and I'll be happy to provide
whatever you need.
Rick McBride
80027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Mark,
1100 # sounds excellent. We are about a month or two from weight in. Hope we
come in near you - with a similarly equipped 8A. Well Done.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing sys install)
Niantic, CT (Westerly, RI hangar)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Portland, OR visit |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Portland, OR visit |
Dave and I will be in the Portland area next week to fly with Mike S.
We arrive Tuesday (7/11) afternoon and leave Sunday (7/16) early.
We'd like to visit some projects. We will be staying in Vernonia.
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing sys installs)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder skeleton questions |
John, I am building a -6 and to answer you question in "3" below, when I
riveted the bottom of the R-410 another builder suggested using a large nut
taped to my rivet squeezer head to reach in through the lightening hole.
Worked for me. I think some have used a 1" square bucking bar in from the
side.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 7:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder skeleton questions
>
> I sent these questions to Van's a couple of days ago and didn't get an
answer yet...they probably haven't been able to get to it yet...so I thought
I'd pose these questions to fellow listers as well. I'm working on the
rudder skeleton and I need some help...
>
> 1) I didn't drill or dimple/countersink the holes in the R-404 for the
CS4-4s
> before riveting the R-410 to the rudder spar and horn (didn't realize that
the
> rivets would be countersinks...) am I correct in presuming that I can
> countersink the holes, since the R-410 is underneath? Or will I have to
> disassemble those parts in order to dimple them?
>
> 2) I noticed that there are three holes on each side of the R-404, where
it
> mates with the sides of the R-410, that take the CS4-4s...and in between
those
> holes and the R-802 spar, there is one hole that presumably takes a solid
> rivet, since it's not marked for a CS4-4. Just curious...since I think I
> could buck solid rivets in at least one, maybe two of the holes on each
side
> that are marked for the CS4-4s...are the pop rivets necessary, or can I
> substitute solid rivets? I just happen to have a plumb bob that would
fit
> nicely in there and is heavy enough to do a decent job on those
rivets...and
> it seemed odd to me that if pop rivets were required, they'd be on all
four
> holes on each side along the R-410.
>
> 3) Finally, any suggestions on how to buck the four AD4-6 rivets that
join
> the R-410 to the bottom of the R-405? That same plumb bob won't fit
sideways
> into the cavity formed by the R-410 (unless I use three or four cutoff
wheels
> to cut off the tip - !), and I don't have a bucking bar that will fit...I
looked at
> Home Depot for a machinist's square as was suggested in the "Bunny's
Guide"
> but the only ones they had in stock had plastic or wood bases...anyone
have any
> ideas?
>
> Semper Fi
> John Lawson
> RV-6 tail kit...HS and VS done...puzzling out the rudder and elevators...
> itching to get his hands on the wing kit...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vicki Schrimmer <abusymom(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Cherrymax rivets |
If you don't have a bar that fits, simply buy yourself a few
cherrymax rivets from Aircraft Spruce or equivalent. They are as
strong as the driven rivets, but cost about $0.50 each, so use 'em
sparingly.
Do you need a special tool for Cherrymax Rivets or can you use the
same pop rivet tool that you use for CS4-4s?
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A empennage
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | QB wing outboard skin??? |
Folks,
My 6AQB wings arrived with something kinda weird in the preassembly so I
thought I'd ask other QBer's...or anyone else that wants to chime in.
The last two outboard rows of rivet holes in the inboard skin W-602 (where
the outboard skin underlaps) were NOT drilled. However, the rivets across
the top and bottom of the inboard skin from the next inboard rib (sta 63.5)
are in place. Looks to me like I have to remove the 9 rivets across the top
and bottom just to drill and dimple the rib.
Alternatively, since the inboard skins are .032, it can be machine
countersunk
after match drilling to the outboard skin and rib without requiring any
disassembly.
Sounds like I already have the answer to this quandry...
How did the rest of you do it?
Ralph Capen
N822AR reserved - got my shop cleared out and workable again...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re:VM1000 Tachometer inputs |
Gentlemen:
Hopefully there is someone lurking who has gone down this road before. I
could use some help and insight.
I have a Lasar Ignition with a single wire tachometer output. I measured
the output with a voltmeter with the engine running - it read 4.5 VDC.
According to the folks at Micro Vision. To use an electronic tach input, you
connect the single wire output to the J4-12 and move the JP-2 jumper from A
to B. I did this along with a few other attempts and never registered
anything on the VM1000. It simply read zero.
After many attempts with no success, I decided to default back to the
VM1000 transducer supplied with the kit. Installed the unit on the left mag
( Slick magnetos with no impulse coupler that I am aware of). The unit
indicates double the engine RPM.
I could use some help with one or both of the scenarios listed above.
Thanks in advance.
Tom Brown RV4 - getting ready to fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re:Airflow performance - High Pressure fuel pump |
Gentlemen:
I have a fuel injected O-360 with an Airflow Performance electric high
pressure fuel pump. I have installed the system similar to what Airflow
Performance refers to schematic three. That is the fuel pump bypass line is
run directly back to fuel tank rather than back to the fuel pump inlet
feedline.
What I have found is the my engine continues to run with the Andair fuel
valve placed in the shutoff position. In fact, it will start and run at high
power settings in the shutoff position. This isn't too good if one ever had a
fire up front since the mechanical pump will just keep putting fuel on the
fire. I am assuming that I am seeing a reverse flow through the bypass line
coming from the fuel pump. Don at Airflow performance stated that there is a
0.090 hole in the bypass to relieve the pump pressure at shutdown.
My question is has anyone else observed this condition? If the bypass is
plumbed back into the feed line coming from the fuel valve the condition
won't exist. Has anyone installed a check valve in the return bypass line to
prevent the reverse flow. Perhaps the checkvalve in the pump isn't working
properly?
I write this as a heads up and also looking for other builders/flyers
experience.
Tom Brown RV4 getting ready to fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cherrymax rivets |
In a message dated 7/8/00 11:08:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
abusymom(at)pacbell.net writes:
<< Do you need a special tool for Cherrymax Rivets or can you use the
same pop rivet tool that you use for CS4-4s?
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A empennage
Irvine, CA >>
Cherrymax rivets can be pulled with a conventional $7.00 hardware store rivet
puller. The rivets are a bit harder to pull than the usual pop rivets we use.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Where to install S-Tec roll servo for RV-8 |
I put mine behind rt footwell in back seat. works great.
Stan
Engine mounted, buttoning up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 Slider handles |
Any of you RV6 guys with sliders have an opinion about adding handles
on the roll over bar to make getting in and out easier? I've seen them but
never used one. I'm at the point where I could add them fairly easily.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
I'm gonna do it. My idea was to drill through the roll bar and weld in some
small tubes (to make up for drilling out and support the bolts going
through) and bolt in some padded car handles (I just know that I'm gonna
smack a knee or forehead someday).
Haven't figured out all of the specifics yet - but I'm interested to see how
your turn out.
There was some discussion in the archives - but I think they were discussing
removable type handles...
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parker43rp(at)AOL.COM |
Mark--- Can you give the location of the CG and the location and type of
battery for your new RV-8A?
Ray Parker
Ocala, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Airflow performance - High Pressure fuel pump |
Why did you use the system outlined in schematic 3? The documentation clearly
states that schematic one is preferred for RVs. That way the fuel from the tanks
is not involved when the selecter is turned off. My understanding is that the
relief valve is only in use when the pump is on. The pump capacity is higher
than the system needs and this allows excess fuel to "spill over" into the
system, setting the fuel pressure. It also cools the working pump. When turned
off the pump is bypassed. I would think that the design that hooks the bipass
return to the fuel system on the engine side of the selector valve would be the
only way to positively control the fuel flow....
Dave Aronson
RV4 FWFFinally
RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I have a fuel injected O-360 with an Airflow Performance electric high
> pressure fuel pump. I have installed the system similar to what Airflow
> Performance refers to schematic three. That is the fuel pump bypass line is
> run directly back to fuel tank rather than back to the fuel pump inlet
> feedline.
>
> What I have found is the my engine continues to run with the Andair fuel
> valve placed in the shutoff position. In fact, it will start and run at high
> power settings in the shutoff position. This isn't too good if one ever had a
> fire up front since the mechanical pump will just keep putting fuel on the
> fire. I am assuming that I am seeing a reverse flow through the bypass line
> coming from the fuel pump. Don at Airflow performance stated that there is a
> 0.090 hole in the bypass to relieve the pump pressure at shutdown.
>
> My question is has anyone else observed this condition? If the bypass is
> plumbed back into the feed line coming from the fuel valve the condition
> won't exist. Has anyone installed a check valve in the return bypass line to
> prevent the reverse flow. Perhaps the checkvalve in the pump isn't working
> properly?
>
> I write this as a heads up and also looking for other builders/flyers
> experience.
>
> Tom Brown RV4 getting ready to fly.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
I'll email you a picture when I get it done.
Like your idea about the padding.
Larry
>I'm gonna do it. My idea was to drill through the roll bar and weld in some
>small tubes (to make up for drilling out and support the bolts going
>through) and bolt in some padded car handles (I just know that I'm gonna
>smack a knee or forehead someday).
>
>Haven't figured out all of the specifics yet - but I'm interested to see how
>your turn out.
>
>There was some discussion in the archives - but I think they were discussing
>removable type handles...
>
>Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Ray,
A really good question, Sorry I didn't list in the original post.
The CG of N783MS is a 77.29 inches from the datum. Which is right in the
ballpark. My battery is in the rear, which was a good choice based on my
equipment list. With me in the front seat the CG moves to 79.35. The rear
most CG is at 86.82. I have to go over gross weight of 1800lbs to go past
the rear CG limit.
I think if I had gone with a 0-360 with a hartzell it would be a toss up,
but I would more than likely put the battery aft based on the different CG
calculations I have run.
I would solicit comments from Brian "Flying RV8" for his comments. He might
has some insight as to the best solo CG based on his engine prop combo.
I will post with insights once I am in the air.
The Fed is on the way..........Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <Parker43rp(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A Weight
>
> Mark--- Can you give the location of the CG and the location and type of
> battery for your new RV-8A?
>
> Ray Parker
> Ocala, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
In a message dated 7/8/00 1:41:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
lolson(at)doitnow.com writes:
<< Any of you RV6 guys with sliders have an opinion about adding handles
on the roll over bar to make getting in and out easier? I've seen them but
never used one. I'm at the point where I could add them fairly easily. >>
The center down tube on the slider is so convenient to grab (but I'm tall and
have long arms) from either seat that IMO additional handles are unnecessary.
The vertically challenged may benefit from additional handles on the roll
bar although I think the welded metal ones I've seen on some 6s could be
dangerous in a collision.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/8/00 1:41:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> lolson(at)doitnow.com writes:
>
> << Any of you RV6 guys with sliders have an opinion about adding handles
> on the roll over bar to make getting in and out easier? I've seen them but
> never used one. I'm at the point where I could add them fairly easily. >>
>
> The center down tube on the slider is so convenient to grab (but I'm tall and
> have long arms) from either seat that IMO additional handles are unnecessary.
> The vertically challenged may benefit from additional handles on the roll
> bar although I think the welded metal ones I've seen on some 6s could be
> dangerous in a collision.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
Yes,. comma , I do have an opinion. Is anybody surprised?
Yes I like the various grab handles I have seen and they seem to add a nifty
look, but there is a better way, I think.
If you make the fairing which is atop the windscreen pretty robust, (either
thick fiberglass or use metal) so that it can withstand aunt susie grabbing it
to get in or out, this is better. Another thing to watch out for is to minimize
the overhang of the fairing. Mine comes aft about an inch which assures a good
seal but is not strong enough to withstand the death grip of my average
terrified passenger. So keep it short. Max of half inch and a quarter is
probably enough.
I have flown over 200 dual rides in my 6A, and I can tell you that it don't
matter what you tell the passenger or what conveniences you build in for them,
they are going to grab the windscreen and step on the seat. Period..
The two newest examples around here, Gary Zilik and Russ Camptz, have very
sturdy roll bar arrangements which is the only way to go IMHO. Russ also has
handles which are sexxy looking but unnecessary. They also carry towels or
other step on material for the pax.
I flew in Gary's today and it is just right. Check out his web site to see the
perfect way to do it.
D Walsh.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
>
> Any of you RV6 guys with sliders have an opinion about adding handles
> on the roll over bar to make getting in and out easier? I've seen them but
> never used one. I'm at the point where I could add them fairly easily.
I am a strong advocate for KISS. I would not add them. The center support
for the windscreen is handy enough and stout enough for anybody that has
ever ridden in my airplane.
Bob Hall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | trouble fitting emp fairing |
Hi Listers,
I have a question about fitting the emp. fairing on an RV-4. I started
working on mine about a week ago and still havent got the fit even close.
The thing didnt fit at all when I started, I had to cut off the portion
around the leading edge of the VS to get it to move down on to the HS
properly. A few new layers of fiberglass on the leading edge got that part
back into shape but the whole thing is stressed when I push it down flush to
the skins. I thought maybe it would fit snug if I put clecoes in to hold it
in place but it just pulls away from the skin between the clecoes. The only
way it could fit tight is if I put a fastener every inch or two.
After close examination of the drawing I noticed my fairing is different
than the one shown. I have three pieces, one large piece over the top and
two small strips under the HS. Has Vans changed the design to a better
fitting one? I didnt see any revision notes that would indicate a change.
Anyone have any ideas about how I could get this thing to fit? Is there an
easy way to fabricate a new, better fitting one?
Ive heard other builders complain about the fairing but this is extreme.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 wiring/finishing up fuse for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRGSCHMIDT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
Larry, I used .040 2024 T3 for my windshield fairing so one could grab it
without bending anything while getting in or out. I thought a handle may get
in the way of my Sun visors and mounts. Stop by and check out my canopy at
hangar 1-4.
Greg Schmidt
RV6S Wiring and canopy
Phoenix DVT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cherrymax rivets |
In a message dated 7/8/00 7:48:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
abusymom(at)pacbell.net writes:
<< Do you need a special tool for Cherrymax Rivets or can you use the
same pop rivet tool that you use for CS4-4s? >>
The same tool works fine on Cherrymax rivets BUT make sure you use the right
length Cherrymax or they won't pull properly. Spend ten bucks and get a
Cherry rivet gauge from ACS, it's worth it.
Harry Crosby
-6 (someday!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Repair of HS-802 flange |
Thanks to all that responded with regards to the S-Tec roll servo!
I made a little ooops... After drilling the HS skins to the HS skeleton I
noticed that HS-802 is not exactly centred on HS-606 (tip spar). I already
riveted it on so I can't just drill the rivets out and move it over. It's
only to the side by 1/8" or so.
Is it here possible to drill the rivets out, cut the flange off and then
rivet on a new flange on the end of HS-802? I haven't tried this sort of fix
before and thought I'd ask first.
Are
RV-8 (riveted right HS stab with success!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nathan dement <ndement(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Purchase Tools for new RV-9A Kit |
Get Yahoo! Mail Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nathan dement <ndement(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Purchase Used Tools; New RV-9A Kit |
I'am in the process of ordering my RV-9A and
need tools. I quest similar to those starter kits.
I heard from a friend that I might get a set for
around $800? The new set are selling for $1500.
Nathan Dement, Hawaii
Get Yahoo! Mail Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Aircraft lighting system |
Good morning friends,
I'm starting my Vertical Stab (RV8)and should start thinking about a lighting system.
I purchased
the rudder bottom designed to mount a light. Plan to use my 8 mostly during daylight
but want
some kind of system for occasional evening flying. Would like to keep cost as
low as possible.
Any suggestions? Should I drill VS for plasic conduit for tip light? Also, THANKS
to all that
helped with my HS814pp. It turned out fine!!! I have a spare for anybody that
needs one.
Thanks,
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
RV8 (HS almost closed and VS structure done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cherrymax rivets |
HCRV6(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/8/00 7:48:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> abusymom(at)pacbell.net writes:
>
> << Do you need a special tool for Cherrymax Rivets or can you use the
> same pop rivet tool that you use for CS4-4s? >>
>
> The same tool works fine on Cherrymax rivets BUT make sure you use the right
> length Cherrymax or they won't pull properly. Spend ten bucks and get a
> Cherry rivet gauge from ACS, it's worth it.
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6 (someday!)
One more thing on the Cherrymax Rivets.....
Another reason you should be ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE that you are about to pull the
right length rivet is that once you put them in, they are EXTREMELY difficult to
remove without enlarging the hole further. The mandrel on them is steel which
is surrounded by the body of the rivet which is aluminum. Should you try and
drill into the mandrel, there is a good chance your drill bit will walk right
off it.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Gap Fairing |
Hi.
RE: RV-6 wing gap fairing.
I am on drawing 46 trying to find ANY specific information regarding the
placement and mounting of the Wing Gap Fairing.
Questions are as follows:
1. Should I continue the 2 1/2" Spacing on the platenuts?
2. Is the fairing meant to end even with the aft end of the top wing
skin, or is it meant to overlap the flap?
3. I will put platenuts on the edge of the fuel tank skin. Should the
platenuts on the top wing skin be inline (laterally) with the fuel tank
platenuts. If so they need to be inside the wing rather than on the
edge of the wing in the area aft of the fuel tank.
Does anyone have online pics of this area of the airplane?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
(Still trying to determine the airspeed velocity of an unlaiden
swallow.)
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft lighting system |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
> From: pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:22:20 -0400 (EDT)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Aircraft lighting system
>
>
> Good morning friends,
> I'm starting my Vertical Stab (RV8)and should start thinking about a lighting
> system. I purchased
> the rudder bottom designed to mount a light. Plan to use my 8 mostly during
> daylight but want
> some kind of system for occasional evening flying. Would like to keep cost as
> low as possible.
> Any suggestions? Should I drill VS for plasic conduit for tip light?
(snip)
I've gone through the same process on my -8. After several hundred hours in
a Navion with a dorsal strobe, much of it at night, I would avoid -any-
lights on the vertical stab of a low wing aircraft. The constant reflection
of the strobe off the outer wing panels and tip tanks was annoying (at
best). I know many builders put a a strobe or beacon on top of the vertical
stab, and I haven't flown an RV at night with this setup, but I would
suspect that the light would not only reflect off the upper wing panels but
would also shine directly through the canopy onto the panel, etc.
IMHO, the two most reasonable choices are the "all in one" wingtip setups
with a tail light on the back of each wingtip light(simpler,
cheaper,lighter), or a strobe on each tip and the combined strobe/position
light in the rudder fairing (nicer but more $ and weight)
James Freeman
RV-8Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Gap Fairing |
In a message dated 7/9/00 10:39:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< 1. Should I continue the 2 1/2" Spacing on the platenuts?
2. Is the fairing meant to end even with the aft end of the top wing
skin, or is it meant to overlap the flap?
3. I will put platenuts on the edge of the fuel tank skin. Should the
platenuts on the top wing skin be inline (laterally) with the fuel tank
platenuts. If so they need to be inside the wing rather than on the
edge of the wing in the area aft of the fuel tank.
Does anyone have online pics of this area of the airplane?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon >>
Glenn,
This seems to be one of the "make it fit" areas of the plane. My biggest
problem with this part was where to terminate the fairing after it wraps
under the wing.
Anyway, to answer your questions (and this is one way to do it, I'm sure
there are others).
1) Do whatever you want on the spacing. This isn't a structural area. I
simply found a 2.5-3" spacing that worked without making a mess of existing
rivets, especially on the fuel tanks.
2) The fairing doesn't cover the flap. If it did, it would be a perfect
place for someone to put their foot through one day, even though you're smart
enough to board passengers with the flaps down.
3) On every one I've ever seen, the platenuts follow the inboard wing rib,
with the strip tapered to match.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: =?UTF-8?Q?Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 07/08/00? |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dustin Norlund" <dustin_norlund(at)geotec.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for something to do in the DFW area |
I will be in the Dallas Forth Worth area up to Thursday of next week. If
there is anyone who would like an extra hand building I will be free during
the days and evenings. Contact me via email. Just looking for something to
do besides sit in the hotel room! My 6 is almost ready to go and I am
having building withdraw during these trips....
.-.
/ \ .-. .-.
/ \ / \ .-. _ .-. / \
/-Dustin Norlund------------/---\--/--\------/------\-
\ / \ / `-' `-' \ /
\ / `-' `-'
`-'
9119 North 102nd East Avenue
Owasso, OK 74055
KD5JXZ
PPSEL
RV6 N555DN
www.555dn.20m.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
>
> Larry, I used .040 2024 T3 for my windshield fairing so one could grab it
> without bending anything while getting in or out. I thought a handle may get
> in the way of my Sun visors and mounts. Stop by and check out my canopy at
> hangar 1-4.
>
I also formed my windshield fairings from aluminum. The piece over the top is
.040 6061 T6 and only overhangs the slider portion by 3/8". This is just enough
to seal the gap and keep the water out. If the strip is formed from fiberglass
keep the overhang it as short as possible or it will start to crack when people
grab it to get in or out.
My opinion about handles is they may not work so well with the a long
overhanging fiberglass strip.. My wife wanted them as she found them very
helpful in getting in and out of Mark Fredrick's HR II. I made a strap on handle
(for testing only) that used band clamps to hold it in position and tried many
positions and found when installed straight back they worked well.
Unfortunately they interfered with the slider in this position. I did not use
them and find the roll bar support works just as well.
Gary , Learned to go upside down Zilik
6A N99PZ
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Gap Fairing |
>
>
> I am on drawing 46 trying to find ANY specific information regarding the
> placement and mounting of the Wing Gap Fairing.
>
> Questions are as follows:
>
> 1. Should I continue the 2 1/2" Spacing on the platenuts?
Yes, as I recall 2 1/2" is what Van calls out for the spacing.
>
> 2. Is the fairing meant to end even with the aft end of the top wing
> skin, or is it meant to overlap the flap?
No, the part supplied is not long enougn to cover the flaps. it runs
from the aft top wing skin to the bottom wing skin/tank skin seam.
>
> 3. I will put platenuts on the edge of the fuel tank skin. Should the
> platenuts on the top wing skin be inline (laterally) with the fuel tank
> platenuts. If so they need to be inside the wing rather than on the
> edge of the wing in the area aft of the fuel tank.
I ran mine along the inboard rib. I have seen them done both ways.
>
>
> Does anyone have online pics of this area of the airplane?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
> (Still trying to determine the airspeed velocity of an unlaiden
> swallow.)
Would your time be better spent working on your RV?
>
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Dennis wrote to Norman,
> You must have extraordinary tubing-bending skills! Wish you were around
> here when I made mine. I had to remake my fuel lines so many times that I
> was tempted to use flexible hose. I learned that it is not so flexible
and
> requires larger radius bends than aluminum, so I finally made some
aluminum
> lines that look decent. Going through the hole in the weldment seemed
much
> more difficult for me so I routed the line under the legs of the mount and
> they are pretty well protected.
Me too. Neighbor is a pipe fitter by trade and RV6 builder. He shamed me
into redoing my fuel lines several times. No way thru the hole! Into the
fuselage then right down on the floor.
Fuel lines are much easier on the RV6 as there is no gear leg box. I could
do an RV6 blindfolded!
More than tidy looking I was concerned about scuffing the tubing in
installation and later. It scratches very easily making it vulnerable to
cracking and leaking! I wrapped mine with tape before installation and
removed it after.
Doing it again I would use hoses with steel overbraid. They don't need
firesleeve and would bend easily in this application. Only downside is
greater cash outlay but time savings and safety greatly improved IMHO.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
Check out my Debonair for sale www.hal-kempthorne.com/N6134V.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Dual nav/comms or not? |
I'm interested in hearing opinions on going with a dual nav/comm setup
vs. just one. I'm planning on an IFR panel, but do not intend to fly
hard IFR in this ship. I'll be using a GNS-430 for my primary 'radio'
and am wondering whether or not to add an SL-30 Nav/Comm and an audio
panel. For the moment, consider that price is not the issue, but rather
weight, installation complexity, and panel clutter. I've gone back and
forth repeatedly over this and would like some external input before
making up my mind. FWIW, I'm leaning toward going with the -430 alone.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
preparing to rivet fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Variable Transformers (Variacs) and Shop Safety |
>I am moving into that portion of Cozy building which requires the hotwire
>cutting of foam. It's been 20+ years since I've had to worry about a
>suitable power supply for a hotwire saw (note: remember to whom you loan
>tools to). The great extent of my knowledge in regards to such a power
>supply is that, Amps kill and Volts heat:)
>
>So not wanting to hook a light dimmer switch up to the house power supply, I
>decided to start looking for a Variable Transformer(Variac), I have located
>a company (All Electronics Corp) that is selling 2-types of these Variable
>Transformers, URL
>(http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/c
>-Variacs.html?L+scstore+jdcw2965fff8d9f8+963471892). Would you take a look
>at the 2-Variacs listed, and tell me if these are suitable of producing in
>Safety the heat needed for hotwire cutting the Cozy wing and canard parts.
>The Variac that interests me the most is their 5 Amp Variable (Input: 110
>Vac. Output: 0 - 130 Vac) Transformer (#SC-5M). I am also open to
>suggestions and other possibilities, but with my children assisting me in
>plane building I am not comfortable with the practice of plugging an
>non-insulated dimmer switch into an outlet and the other end attached to a
>hot wire.
>
>Could someone please shad some light on this problem:
Variacs (an acronym trade name derived from "VARIable AC") are very
handy devices for generating a source of adjustable AC voltage in
the shop. They can adjust the speed of motor driven power tools,
vary the output from small heaters, -AND- many builders have reported
success with using VARIACs to control the power to a hot-wire foam
cutter.
By-in-large, used with understanding and some caution, these critters
can be most useful. However, be aware that these are not isolation
transformers . . . they have but one winding and operate as sort of
an AC potentiometer. Just because the "OUTPUT" is a few, seemingly
non-hazardous volts, there are ways they can be mis-wired such that
terminal output voltages with respect to earth ground is equal to
your 115 vac line voltage. Take a peek at a wiring diagrams I've
just uploaded to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/variac.pdf
Most VARIACs come already enclosed and internally wired
at the factory. However, there are lots of surplus components for
sale out there that require the user to mount them in an enclosure
and/or wire them up . . . It's not difficult to wire these guys
up so that they do not present a hazard for driving your hot-wire
cutters or other exposed conductor applications. Further, its
always a good idea to operate your shop's wall outlets from a
ground fault interrupter . . . they are really inexpensive. One
GFI can be wired to supply all of the miscelaneous outlets in your
shop.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
In a message dated 7/9/2000 1:37:05 PM Central Daylight Time,
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I'm interested in hearing opinions on going with a dual nav/comm setup
vs. just one. I'm planning on an IFR panel, but do not intend to fly
hard IFR in this ship. I'll be using a GNS-430 for my primary 'radio'
and am wondering whether or not to add an SL-30 Nav/Comm and an audio
panel. For the moment, consider that price is not the issue, but rather
weight, installation complexity, and panel clutter. I've gone back and
forth repeatedly over this and would like some external input before
making up my mind. FWIW, I'm leaning toward going with the -430 alone.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch >>
SInce price is not a problem just get 2 430 and your set. Smallest true ifr
stack out there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Purchase Tools for new RV-9A Kit |
cheapest place for good tools is brown aviation tools, then cleaveland and
then avery. these are the only 3 i would look at. They basically sell the
same brands of tools so it doenst matter who you buy it from as it will be
the same. The only difference is that avery has the best squeezer.
CHris wilcox
f1 rocket kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Dual nav/comms or not? |
I also plan on the same mission profile (light IFR etc.). I was having the
same dilema (and yes, changing my mind frequently). For the moment I have
settled on one nav and one comm. I plan to use the Apollo GX65 GPS/COMM as
my single com because it will allow me to monitor one frequency while
transmitting on another. I intend to include the Val Avionics INS 422 as
my single nav for shooting approaches. This may be totally off in left
field but these are my thoughts for the moment.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Balch [SMTP:kbalch1(at)mediaone.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dual nav/comms or not?
I'm interested in hearing opinions on going with a dual nav/comm setup
vs. just one. I'm planning on an IFR panel, but do not intend to fly
hard IFR in this ship. I'll be using a GNS-430 for my primary 'radio'
and am wondering whether or not to add an SL-30 Nav/Comm and an audio
panel. For the moment, consider that price is not the issue, but rather
weight, installation complexity, and panel clutter. I've gone back and
forth repeatedly over this and would like some external input before
making up my mind. FWIW, I'm leaning toward going with the -430 alone.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
preparing to rivet fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " bert" <bertrv(at)rdtnet.net> |
Gary:
Thank you for yourcomments; I will see what is the
easiest way to do it. It seems to me when I was looking
inside the fuselage, that thru the holes would be straight
to the fuselage sides, and almost direct to the tanks'
except for a small bend...
I will see how it works,,
That is why building a second rv should be, so easy....
everything we do, would be done in a different sequence...
Bert
Do No archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
>
>
>I'm interested in hearing opinions on going with a dual nav/comm setup
>vs. just one. I'm planning on an IFR panel, but do not intend to fly
>hard IFR in this ship. I'll be using a GNS-430 for my primary 'radio'
>and am wondering whether or not to add an SL-30 Nav/Comm and an audio
>panel. For the moment, consider that price is not the issue, but rather
>weight, installation complexity, and panel clutter. I've gone back and
>forth repeatedly over this and would like some external input before
>making up my mind. FWIW, I'm leaning toward going with the -430 alone.
>
>--
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
Ken,
I have one Com in my RV8 and it's all I need for the kind of flying I do. I
also have the basic six instrument cluster (turn coordinator replaced with G
meter) and analog engine gauges. So, panel space would not easily permit
the addition of another standard sized Com, along with a transponder. It
does get a bit busy in class C or B airspace with one Com, but it can be
done. You'll just be doing a lot of knob turning on the GNS unit if you go
with this alone and often fly into busy airspace. I'm assuming that unit
has just the usual flip-flop, two channel memory type of com function? To
keep things simple and light, one com is just fine. For IFR work or VFR into
busy airports where the controllers like to play ping pong with your radio
frequencies and xponder codes, the dual com is the only way to go.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
109 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> SInce price is not a problem just get 2 430 and your set. Smallest true ifr
> stack out there.
Not a bad idea, but then things start to get a bit crowded. I want to have my
six primary instruments centered on the panel, with E.I. gauges in two vertical
columns on the left side of the main panel. The right side of my panel will
contain the VOR/GPS CDI, the g-meter, the compass, and another instrument to be
named later. The long and the short of it is: if I go with two -430's, I won't
have room for the other stuff I want. Bummer. Believe me, I've wrestled with
it.
After playing with Panel Planner and realizing how much it leaves to be desired
(being generous there), I finally made properly sized paper cutouts of all the
instruments I'm considering and have been moving them around my panel blank for
the past couple of weeks. I'll set up a configuration, then leave it where I
can see it periodically throughout the day and make changes as they occur to
me. At the moment, I haven't made any changes for five days. I think that's a
personal record... :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
preparing to rivet fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
My two possible 'final' configurations are: GNS-430, SL-30, SL-70 & SL-10M or
GNS-430 & SL-70. Back and forth, back and forth, etc. I'm getting to the
point of ordering instruments and avionics, so I've got to decide pretty soon.
Hmm...
Ken
Vince Welch wrote:
>
> I also plan on the same mission profile (light IFR etc.). I was having the
> same dilema (and yes, changing my mind frequently). For the moment I have
> settled on one nav and one comm. I plan to use the Apollo GX65 GPS/COMM as
> my single com because it will allow me to monitor one frequency while
> transmitting on another. I intend to include the Val Avionics INS 422 as
> my single nav for shooting approaches. This may be totally off in left
> field but these are my thoughts for the moment.
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
I went with VFR and one radio to start. After going into Class B's, and a
problem with the one radio (in a Class D), I added a second radio.
Problem was that I had a good stereo intercom wired in, and did not want to
replace it with the PS-600 (it had just come out). So, I added the second
radio and scratch built a "audio mixer" using some 12V printed circuit board
relays, an op-amp, a pile of resitors and such, and circuits ripped off two
or three magazine articles. Parts came from an on-line electronics house,
total around $40 or so. Now I have two radios, my old intercom and two
switches. One is "Radio Select" that selects com1 or com2 as the active
radio, and a second switch, "Listen", that has "Selected" or "Both" positions.
Works great and has all the advantages of an audio panel. Fails safe to the
com1 radio, can listen to ATIS and Control at the same time. Uses a 15 pin
cannon plug that takes all the goes ins, goes outs, mic switch, one aux audio
input (like my VM100 annunciator, not wired in yet) from the existing
Intercom and radio, and the second radio.
I was thinking of designing a board ( the protype is wired point to point,
about 2 X 4 inches, very ineffecient layout) and building some for sale, but
time is lacking. Right now the circuit drawing is a mess and I can't send it
out. I would do the following:
Send me a self addressed stamped envelop if you want the circuit and parts
list when I get it drawn so someone besides me can understand it. I will
promise to get it done in two or three weeks, and mailed. Respond to me off
line if you are interested, and I will get moving on it this week.
Bruce Patton
2567 Flora St
San Luis Obispo, Ca
93401
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
In a message dated 7/9/2000 3:56:58 PM Central Daylight Time,
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Not a bad idea, but then things start to get a bit crowded. I want to
have my
six primary instruments centered on the panel, with E.I. gauges in two
vertical
columns on the left side of the main panel. The right side of my panel will
contain the VOR/GPS CDI, the g-meter, the compass, and another instrument to
be
named later. The long and the short of it is: if I go with two -430's, I
won't
have room for the other stuff I want. Bummer. Believe me, I've wrestled
with
it.
>>
What about running a short extension down in the center of the panel. Thats
what I am going to be doing on my rocket. Have to have room on the panel for
a CD player and the 2 430s and thats the only way I can think of to do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
Hi Brian,
I know I can squeeze one of the SL-30 units into my panel alongside the GNS-430,
but that would also necessitate the inclusion of an audio panel. I can make all
this fit, but do I want to deal with the additional weight and installation
complexities?
On the one hand, I'd like to keep an eye on my possible forward cg situation
(and not have any 'extra' weight toward the front of the airplane), as I'll be
using an IO-360-A1B6 and a constant speed prop. I'll save some weight (about
seven pounds) on the very front by going with the MT prop vs. the Hartzell, but
I'd still like to keep additional up-front weight to a minimum.
On the other hand, I do often fly in the kind of airspace you describe and could
use the additional four (2 nav, 2 comm) ready frequencies provided by a second
radio.
To the best of my knowledge (from playing with the -430 software simulator), the
Garmin unit has the usual two channel flip-flop operation for both nav & comm of
most of the other digital radios we're accustomed to using.
I'm considering having Aerotronics prepare my panel, so perhaps I'll bounce this
off them tomorrow. The really strange thing is that I'm usually the most
decisive person I know.
Ken
Brian Denk wrote:
> Ken,
>
> I have one Com in my RV8 and it's all I need for the kind of flying I do. I
> also have the basic six instrument cluster (turn coordinator replaced with G
> meter) and analog engine gauges. So, panel space would not easily permit
> the addition of another standard sized Com, along with a transponder. It
> does get a bit busy in class C or B airspace with one Com, but it can be
> done. You'll just be doing a lot of knob turning on the GNS unit if you go
> with this alone and often fly into busy airspace. I'm assuming that unit
> has just the usual flip-flop, two channel memory type of com function? To
> keep things simple and light, one com is just fine. For IFR work or VFR into
> busy airports where the controllers like to play ping pong with your radio
> frequencies and xponder codes, the dual com is the only way to go.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> 109 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> What about running a short extension down in the center of the panel. Thats
> what I am going to be doing on my rocket. Have to have room on the panel for
> a CD player and the 2 430s and thats the only way I can think of to do it.
If I'm accurately picturing your installation, I'd want to measure after the
front stick is installed to check its clearance beneath the panel extension.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
The answer is simple. Install an HSI in place of your DG. That way you can have
2
430's and still have room.
Bruce
Glasair III
Ken Balch wrote:
>
> CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> > SInce price is not a problem just get 2 430 and your set. Smallest true ifr
> > stack out there.
>
> Not a bad idea, but then things start to get a bit crowded. I want to have my
> six primary instruments centered on the panel, with E.I. gauges in two vertical
> columns on the left side of the main panel. The right side of my panel will
> contain the VOR/GPS CDI, the g-meter, the compass, and another instrument to
be
> named later. The long and the short of it is: if I go with two -430's, I won't
> have room for the other stuff I want. Bummer. Believe me, I've wrestled with
> it.
>
> After playing with Panel Planner and realizing how much it leaves to be desired
> (being generous there), I finally made properly sized paper cutouts of all the
> instruments I'm considering and have been moving them around my panel blank for
> the past couple of weeks. I'll set up a configuration, then leave it where I
> can see it periodically throughout the day and make changes as they occur to
> me. At the moment, I haven't made any changes for five days. I think that's
a
> personal record... :-)
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> preparing to rivet fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trouble fitting emp fairing |
Pat, we also had a problem fitting our empanage fairing. After several false
starts we purchased a heat gun (A hair dryer does not seem to get hot enough)
and by applying gentle heat to the inside of the fairing and using gloves we
were able to bend the fairing down between the plate nut holes enough to
make the action of the screws force the fairing down to meet the skin. The
fairing gets very pliable with a small amount of heat so we did one gap at a
time. I have very little experence with fiber glass, and there must be
better easer ways to solve this problem but this did seem to the cure the
slopy fairing fit for us.
Good luck.
Rollie & Rod 79922RQ(Reserved)
6A finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings |
I saw a beautiful RV-6A today that had very nice fiberglass wing root
fairings. I did not see the pilot, does anyone know who makes this fairings?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5771
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
Well, yes, that's true. Unfortunately, at that point, money would become an issue.
That's an extra $5800 for the second -430, plus close to $5K for an NSD HSI. All
of
a sudden, we're talking real money! :-)
Ken
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> The answer is simple. Install an HSI in place of your DG. That way you can have
2
> 430's and still have room.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
Heck, If money is not object, install one 430 (or better yet a 530) and
stick a Sandel HSI in place of the DG. If space is really a problem, then
go with the Sandel and use only two NavCom radios and a slim line GPS for
the Sandel. Doing this would allow you to install a strikefinder or
stormscope and have it show up on the Sandel as well. You'll loose the
highway/detail feature of the 430/530 though.
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dual nav/comms or not?
>
> The answer is simple. Install an HSI in place of your DG. That way you can
have 2
> 430's and still have room.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
> Ken Balch wrote:
>
> >
> > CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> > > SInce price is not a problem just get 2 430 and your set. Smallest
true ifr
> > > stack out there.
> >
> > Not a bad idea, but then things start to get a bit crowded. I want to
have my
> > six primary instruments centered on the panel, with E.I. gauges in two
vertical
> > columns on the left side of the main panel. The right side of my panel
will
> > contain the VOR/GPS CDI, the g-meter, the compass, and another
instrument to be
> > named later. The long and the short of it is: if I go with two -430's,
I won't
> > have room for the other stuff I want. Bummer. Believe me, I've
wrestled with
> > it.
> >
> > After playing with Panel Planner and realizing how much it leaves to be
desired
> > (being generous there), I finally made properly sized paper cutouts of
all the
> > instruments I'm considering and have been moving them around my panel
blank for
> > the past couple of weeks. I'll set up a configuration, then leave it
where I
> > can see it periodically throughout the day and make changes as they
occur to
> > me. At the moment, I haven't made any changes for five days. I think
that's a
> > personal record... :-)
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> > Ken Balch
> > Ashland, MA
> > RV-8 #81125
> > preparing to rivet fuse
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
Well, now we're talking real money! :-) Unfortunately, while money isn't a
factor for me in deciding between a 430 and a transponder vs. a 430, an SL-30,
an SL-15 and a transponder, it becomes a factor when we start talking about dual
430's and/or 530's and/or Sandel E-HSI's. In truth, even if money were no
problem at all, goodies like the Sandel unit don't belong in my RV, as they
simply exceed the mission requirements. That said, I love the new toys as much
as the next guy, if not more so. Gimme, gimme...
Ken
Mike Nellis wrote:
>
> Heck, If money is not object, install one 430 (or better yet a 530) and
> stick a Sandel HSI in place of the DG. If space is really a problem, then
> go with the Sandel and use only two NavCom radios and a slim line GPS for
> the Sandel. Doing this would allow you to install a strikefinder or
> stormscope and have it show up on the Sandel as well. You'll loose the
> highway/detail feature of the 430/530 though.
>
> Mike Nellis
> RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
> http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I am pretty sure Sam James makes them for the RV-4 and seems like they can
be modified for others.
Or a lot of folks are making their own.
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
>From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings
>Date: Sun, Jul 9, 2000, 5:13 PM
>
>
> I saw a beautiful RV-6A today that had very nice fiberglass wing root
> fairings. I did not see the pilot, does anyone know who makes this fairings?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings |
In a message dated 7/9/00 6:33:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jcimino(at)epix.net
writes:
<< I saw a beautiful RV-6A today that had very nice fiberglass wing root
fairings. I did not see the pilot, does anyone know who makes this fairings?
Jim Cimino >>
Sam James makes some. Check the Yeller Pages.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings |
SAM JAMES MAKES THE GLASS FAIRINGS
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Dual nav/comms or not? |
I have played with this myself. A bit early, but I used to be an avionics
tech and can play with this forever. My RV-8 will be IFR and I might as well
go all the way - considering weight and functionality. I have started to buy
stuff for my panel already and it's a nice break to work on between driving
rivets.
Here's what I came up with to meet Canadian IFR regs:
SL10MS Audio panel
SL60 GPS/Com
SL30 Nav/Com
SL70 Transponder
This package is very slim and yes, it's missing the -430 but I can save
space, weight and not be too far off with total cash for panel by adding
EFIS to the DG spot. The Sandel has a moving map, DG and LOC/GS combined and
is cheaper than the 430. This will also work well with the S-Tec autopilot
system 30 since the heading bug in the Sandel EFIS is compatible.
So, the rest of the avionics:
Sandel EFIS (connected to the GPS/Com)
LOC/GS indicator (connected to the Nav/Com)
Engine instruments will primarily be the VM1000 and an EI fuel gauge plus a
fuel totalizer to conserve space.
This will make it IFR certifiable in Canada and reasonable lightweight. I
also made this up in Panel Planner and it will actually fit just nice.
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Sent: July 9, 2000 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dual nav/comms or not?
The answer is simple. Install an HSI in place of your DG. That way you can
have 2
430's and still have room.
Bruce
Glasair III
Ken Balch wrote:
>
> CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> > SInce price is not a problem just get 2 430 and your set. Smallest true
ifr
> > stack out there.
>
> Not a bad idea, but then things start to get a bit crowded. I want to
have my
> six primary instruments centered on the panel, with E.I. gauges in two
vertical
> columns on the left side of the main panel. The right side of my panel
will
> contain the VOR/GPS CDI, the g-meter, the compass, and another instrument
to be
> named later. The long and the short of it is: if I go with two -430's, I
won't
> have room for the other stuff I want. Bummer. Believe me, I've wrestled
with
> it.
>
> After playing with Panel Planner and realizing how much it leaves to be
desired
> (being generous there), I finally made properly sized paper cutouts of all
the
> instruments I'm considering and have been moving them around my panel
blank for
> the past couple of weeks. I'll set up a configuration, then leave it
where I
> can see it periodically throughout the day and make changes as they occur
to
> me. At the moment, I haven't made any changes for five days. I think
that's a
> personal record... :-)
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125
> preparing to rivet fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Dual nav/comms or not? |
The Sandel EFIS has strike finder capabilities built in. I'm not sure what's
needed to activate it though but the moving map display will show strikes as
well if properly configured - probably with expensive optional equipment.
Are
RV-8 C-GQRV (reserved)
-
Heck, If money is not object, install one 430 (or better yet a 530) and
stick a Sandel HSI in place of the DG. If space is really a problem, then
go with the Sandel and use only two NavCom radios and a slim line GPS for
the Sandel. Doing this would allow you to install a strikefinder or
stormscope and have it show up on the Sandel as well. You'll loose the
highway/detail feature of the 430/530 though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Aircraft Homecoming |
Listers,
Has anyone heard if the Homecoming will be at Aurora (the new location for
Van's in a couple of weeks) or at the old grass strip next to his house? (That
would be my preference)
Not much to add to Norman's excellent report from the Arlington fly-in except
that there was a tent full of people to attend the Lycoming seminar that Scott
from Van's was going to put on Saturday morning, and no Scott. An hour and a half
later, another tent full of people gathered to hear the Van's RV 6 and 9 seminar,
and no representative from Van's were there to give the talk. I spoke to one of
the guys at Van's booth after and he said that they just blew it off. No notice
to the fly-in staff that were trying to run the seminars, no attempt to have
anybody else fill in. Kudos to the great RV4 and 6 builder who stepped in to talk
and should be paid by Van for doing so. I really learned a lot from him. I tried
to remember his name (Glen Grant)? I'm not sure....but I wish he lived closer
to
me and my RV project, what a guy! There were a lot of enthusiastic builders and
wanna-be's there at the seminars who were really disappointed not to get to hear
from our factory representatives. I know that I was one of them. I realize that
Van has been having a tough time lately, and the move has got to really be
stirring things up, but I feel put out to have made a real effort to get to his
presentation and not have them show. I'll wait to hear from them what happened,
I
intend to send them a similar note. I'll post their answer if it sheds any light
on this. I don't know how it could be weather, they seemed to be able to fly the
demonstrator up from Oregon without any problem.
Dave Burton
RV6A
Also, thanks Laird, for bringing your beautiful plane all the way from
southern California, and spending all that time talking to me about it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Van's homecoming |
Speaking of the homecoming, anyone in the southeast who might appreciate an
extra wallet, er... person in the backseat to offset some of the
expenses......have wallet will travel. :-)
Bill
Orlando
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Aircraft Homecoming |
David & Betty Burton wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Has anyone heard if the Homecoming will be at Aurora (the new location for
> Van's in a couple of weeks) or at the old grass strip next to his house? (That
> would be my preference)
Would not be in a couple of weeks Dave it is labor day weekend. If you
had a
airplane parked along that row on Sunset airstrip you would not prefer
it.
>
> Not much to add to Norman's excellent report from the Arlington fly-in except
> that there was a tent full of people to attend the Lycoming seminar that Scott
> from Van's was going to put on Saturday morning, and no Scott. An hour and a
half
> later, another tent full of people gathered to hear the Van's RV 6 and 9 seminar,
> and no representative from Van's were there to give the talk. I spoke to one
of
> the guys at Van's booth after and he said that they just blew it off. No notice
> to the fly-in staff that were trying to run the seminars, no attempt to have
> anybody else fill in. Kudos to the great RV4 and 6 builder who stepped in to
talk
> and should be paid by Van for doing so. I really learned a lot from him. I
tried
> to remember his name (Glen Grant)? I'm not sure....but I wish he lived closer
to
> me and my RV project, what a guy!
Our own RV-Lister Gary Graham from Hillsboro, OR
And I agree there should have been a not but it was
weather related Dave.
>
> Dave Burton
> RV6A
>
> Also, thanks Laird, for bringing your beautiful plane all the way from
> southern California, and spending all that time talking to me about it!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinner(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: trouble fitting emp fairing |
>Hi Listers,
>
>I have a question about fitting the emp. fairing on an RV-4. I started
>working on mine about a week ago and still havent got the fit even close.
>The thing didnt fit at all when I started, I had to cut off the portion
>around the leading edge of the VS to get it to move down on to the HS
>properly. A few new layers of fiberglass on the leading edge got that part
>
>Anyone have any ideas about how I could get this thing to fit? Is there an
>easy way to fabricate a new, better fitting one?
>Pat Perry
>Dallas, PA
>RV-4 wiring/finishing up fuse for paint
Pat,
You might consider using your emp. fairing as a mold for a new fairing.
I did this for several airplanes and the results were good. In fact, we
had a RV6 fairing that we were sending around the country so folks could
use it and send their's back for credit. Unfortunately, our fairing
disappeared to an unknown builder never to be seen again:(
Bond some wood (2x4) scraps to your faring to strengthen it and give you
something to clamp in the vise. Sand the fairing smooth (360 grit and
finer) and wax. Lay up a one layer lay up of tight weave cloth and epoxy.
When the 1 layer lay up is dry, pop off of the mold and install it on your
airplane. The one layer laminate is very flexible and easy to cut. You
may need to cut and re-glue (body putty works great) in different areas to
get a fit (for instance, around the vert. stab.) Put self adhesive shelf
paper on the h.s. and v.s and fuse. to protect with wax. Use double sided
tape to hold the flimsy edges to the h.s., v.s, etc. Wax the area beyond
the 1 lay up fairing and lay up 3 or 4 layers of glass on the 1 layer
fairing extending onto the wax area. When dry, use your chip chaser to
"pop" the fairing off the airplane.
Check the archives as well. There is quite a bit in there on the fairings.
Rollie & Rod's solution may not yield satisfying results. The polyester
resin tends to resume it's original position, especially if the fairing is
painted a dark color. Epoxy seems much more stable and seems to shrink and
change shape less. Polyester tends to keep shrinking. This is why a
perfect paint job on polyester one day starts to show the weave. I had
this problem on my spinner, cowl and wing tips (polyester) but no problem
with the epoxy emp. fairing.
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY (1995 RV6 sold after 4 years & 470 hrs) EAA
Tech Counselor # 3726
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Dave,
I will attempt to keep this short. It was really nice to meet you and Laird
Owens on Friday. Sorry I missed the fish fry. Maybe next year. And sorry
about not seeing you on Saturday. Had to leave right after the Great
Blackjack Burger Lunch on Saturday.
Laird,
Excellent Panel is just the first thing I can say. The rest of the aircraft
is also sharp.
The Blackjacks,
Excellent fly-bys, and burger fly.
To the many others I met,
Thanks for being so friendly and ready to talk.
My only regret is not meeting up with everybody else from the list. Maybe
next year we should organize a place and time to meet up and introduce
ourselves. I briefly thought about it this year but figured that it
wouldn't be necessary. Boy, was I wrong. Next year we must have an rv-list
meeting.
I look forward to going again next year.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
>
>
> Doing it again I would use hoses with steel overbraid. They don't need
> firesleeve and would bend easily in this application. Only downside is
> greater cash outlay but time savings and safety greatly improved IMHO.
>
The braided hose is heavier and can act just like a hack saw if it is allowed to
rub. Some of the hoses have a service life of only a couple of years if carrying
100LL. Aluminum has a long service life, is light, easy to work with,
inexpensive, good looking, etc...
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
On Sun, 09 Jul 2000 17:37:23 HST, you wrote:
>
>Dave,
>
>I will attempt to keep this short. It was really nice to meet you and Laird
>Owens on Friday. Sorry I missed the fish fry. Maybe next year. And sorry
>about not seeing you on Saturday. Had to leave right after the Great
>Blackjack Burger Lunch on Saturday.
>
snip
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>
I resent the implication that we FRYED the King Salmon. The Salmon
was carefully anointed with the 'Secret Sauce' and cooked at a low
temp so the salmon would stay moist.
We cooked over 35 pounds of King Salmon, 98 oysters and 20 hamburgers.
We also had several different micro brews for our guests.
We did miss you and hope that you can make it next year to the BBQ.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
Council Member, Snohomish Indian Tribe
http://members.home.net/ammeterj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
In a message dated 7/9/2000 4:54:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< If I'm accurately picturing your installation, I'd want to measure after
the
front stick is installed to check its clearance beneath the panel extension.
Ken
>>
Already talked to Mark about it and it wont be a problem
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings(drag) |
In a message dated 7/9/00 6:46:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jcimino(at)epix.net
writes:
<< I saw a beautiful RV-6A today that had very nice fiberglass wing root
fairings. I did not see the pilot, does anyone know who makes this
fairings? >>
I agree that some of the FG fairings are beautiful, but Rich Jankowski(2nd
fastest known RV6 in world after Tracy Saylor) and Roger Hirschbein ran a
back to back with a FG one and a flat stock aluminum one and found it to be
"10 mph slower"
Bernie Kerr, 6A N60WM 25 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
Are Barstad wrote:
> I was quoted (ballpark prices) ~11,500 cdn for the 430 and ~15,000 cdn for
> the 530 INCLUDING HARNESSES. The exchange is approx: a US dollar = ~$1.5
> cdn. So... the 430 would be US $7,300 and the 530 is approx. $10,000 US.
> Please keep in mind that these are quotes from one particular Canadian
> dealer but I was told I would have a hard time finding it much cheaper in
> the US after exchange.
Call or email John Stark and tell him that you're building an RV. I think
you'll find that his prices are substantially better than what you were quoted.
Substantially.
> The Sandel EFIS is $7,900 US from Aircraft Spruce. You're saving more $$$
> than that though considering you will not need a DG and can eliminate one
> LOC/GS indicator.
>
> Space-wise, you're saving a bundle! A moving map (larger than the 430), DG,
> H.S.I, DME indicator, LOC, indicator, GS indicator, strike indicator, HDG
> bug etc. in one screen plus you can plan on a smaller GPS/Com radio.
>
> You can then go with a relatively cheap Nav/Com and GPS/Com and also
> maintain a slim line/light weight and low $$$'s
>
> It sounds like a too fancy panel, but it's not that unreasonable IF you're
> planning on IFR.
Well, there's IFR and there's IFR. In the RV-8, I'm planning the sort of IFR
that'll get me through a morning marine layer or down through some minor snizzle
at the destination. I am not planning approaches to minimums or long periods of
solid enroute IFR. I don't feel that the -8 is going to have the sort of
stability I like in a hard-IFR airplane, which is, of course, a good thing for
the kind of flying I intend to do in it 99% of the time. Also, I'm still
undecided about installing an autopilot or not. Again, it's probably overkill
for the regional sport flying that'll occupy the vast majority of my -8's
logbook.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lutes" <rlutes(at)owc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
Ken,
FWIW, In our Cessna, I put in a second com (14 VDC powered) with the GNS 430
for redundancy in case the 28 volt power supply or the 430 fails. The
external 28 V power supplies power to the com only of the GNS 430. The power
supply and the 430 have performed flawlessly for 200 hours so far.
Rick
RV-4 N626AL
----- Original Message -----
From: <CW9371(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dual nav/comms or not?
>
> In a message dated 7/9/2000 1:37:05 PM Central Daylight Time,
> kbalch1(at)mediaone.net writes:
>
> << I'm interested in hearing opinions on going with a dual nav/comm setup
> vs. just one. I'm planning on an IFR panel, but do not intend to fly
> hard IFR in this ship. I'll be using a GNS-430 for my primary 'radio'
> and am wondering whether or not to add an SL-30 Nav/Comm and an audio
> panel. For the moment, consider that price is not the issue, but rather
> weight, installation complexity, and panel clutter. I've gone back and
> forth repeatedly over this and would like some external input before
> making up my mind. FWIW, I'm leaning toward going with the -430 alone.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch >>
>
> SInce price is not a problem just get 2 430 and your set. Smallest true
ifr
> stack out there.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Server glitch - lost orders |
We're finding that some orders placed with us approx 7-10 days
ago slid off the edge of the world. With few exceptions, every
order in hand has been shipped and acknowledged by e-mail.
If anyone has an order pending with us for which you HAVE NOT
received an acknowledgment showing a ship date, please drop
us a note.
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings |
I used Sam James fairings on the wing gap with the Vans factory RV-6 wing
rubber channel on the wing side of the fairing and hobby store "u" channel on
the fuse. side of the fairing. Looks great. The rubber makes for a quick
solution to the puckering that the screws would otherwise cause
WFACT01(at)aol.com on 07/09/2000 08:56:47 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings
SAM JAMES MAKES THE GLASS FAIRINGS
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | pitot intake protection |
Listers:
this week end I finally got around to pro-sealing small circles of wire mesh
screen over the intakes to my fuel vents on the 6A. While I was there,
thinking about the grief that mud-dauber wasps have caused me in the past, I
almost glued a piece of screen over the pitot intake to keep the critters out
of my pitot system, but thought I had better poll the list first...
I realize pitot tubes come in a variety of sizes and profiles, and tha the
system measures only pressure with very little flow, making the orifice size
arguably a minor consideration. I think of this system as analogous to a
high-impedance voltage-sensitive instrument with virtually no current to
consider. If that is correct, can I affix a piece of screen across the
opening of the pitot without affecting the accuracy of the system? I'm not
real concerned about hysteresis (in this case, instrument lag) in the ASI
from this modification, but should I be?
Input appreciated. I've been there, done that with wasp debris in the fuel
tank vent and in the pitot, on two different occasions.
Thanks.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A 118 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Low Compression to High Compression O-320 |
Does anyone have actual experience they can share having changed from low
compression to high compression in an O-320? Is there anything special
required other than new pistons (rings and pins also, I'd imagine)? The
engine I'm considering changing is an O-320-E2A.
Thanks for the help!
Bryan Jones -8 N765BJ
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rlluster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> |
Hi Listers,
This is my first time on the list. I am from Washington state, and went on
a
demo ride of the RV-9A with R.V.'s brother Jerry, on Friday at the Arlington
fly-in. The airplane was flown up in the morning from Oregon by Ken, with a
total of 21 hours on it.
The ride was great. Having not flown in an RV before, I can not compare it
to any of the others, but compared to the 172's and 150's (which I currently
fly), this demo was great. Needless to say, my RV-9A emp. and wings are on
order as of Friday afternoon.
Any insight of pre-starting info would be appreciated.
E-mail at: rlluster(at)msn.com
Richard Luster
9A on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft lighting system |
Jack,
I too have the rudder bottom with the tail light provision, and have had the
same questions. The only thing I did with my vertical stab (-6A)is to put
plastic snap rings into 3/8" holes I drilled in the bottom rib and the rear
spar. I fished string into the holes for pulling wires later on in the
project. My rudder has corresponding holes in the spar and bottom rib with
pulling strings left in. My final intention is to use the flush mounted
wingtip light/strobe combination along with the combination tail light and
strobe. (I am a big believer in being lit up day and night!)
Jim Bower
RV-6A Emp.
>From: pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Aircraft lighting system
>Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:22:20 -0400 (EDT)
>
>
>Good morning friends,
>I'm starting my Vertical Stab (RV8)and should start thinking about a
>lighting system. I purchased
>the rudder bottom designed to mount a light. Plan to use my 8 mostly
>during daylight but want
>some kind of system for occasional evening flying. Would like to keep cost
>as low as possible.
>Any suggestions? Should I drill VS for plasic conduit for tip light?
>Also, THANKS to all that
>helped with my HS814pp. It turned out fine!!! I have a spare for anybody
>that needs one.
>Thanks,
>Jack Textor
>Des Moines, IA
>RV8 (HS almost closed and VS structure done)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Aircraft Homecoming (long-ish) |
WHEN is the Homecoming?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Baxter" <robbax(at)sympatico.ca> |
Welcome aboard Richard
First order of business.....buy your wife something nice and then in the
future when she is talking, you must repeat..."Honey, that is very
interesting". Never zone out. Recruit other builders to drop by and convince
her that this obsession...correction..this project.. is a perfectly normal
activity.
If she burns your tool catalogs before you get them it's time to regroup and
post to the list with this setback.
Other than that...have fun Find some scrap aluminum and practice
drilling,deburring,dimpling (the 3 D's of metal aircraft construction).
Rivet up some scrap and learn to do it left and right handed. When you can
rivet scrap like a pro you won't fret when it's time to start "smakin em" on
your new freedom machine.
Rob Baxter Sarnia Ontario
RV-8 wings 95% done
----- Original Message -----
From: "rlluster" <rlluster(at)msn.com>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 11:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: New to list
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> This is my first time on the list. I am from Washington state, and went
on
> a
> demo ride of the RV-9A with R.V.'s brother Jerry, on Friday at the
Arlington
> fly-in. The airplane was flown up in the morning from Oregon by Ken, with
a
> total of 21 hours on it.
>
> The ride was great. Having not flown in an RV before, I can not compare it
> to any of the others, but compared to the 172's and 150's (which I
currently
> fly), this demo was great. Needless to say, my RV-9A emp. and wings are on
> order as of Friday afternoon.
>
> Any insight of pre-starting info would be appreciated.
>
> E-mail at: rlluster(at)msn.com
>
> Richard Luster
> 9A on order
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings(drag) |
BERNIE I USE THE GLASS ONES -BOUNTY-HUNTER FASTEST 180HP RV4 SUN 100
227.72MPH TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
Your right, the Sandel does have the Strike Finder display, but you still
need the Strike Finder (or camparable) unit to lite that puppy up.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 8:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dual nav/comms or not?
>
> The Sandel EFIS has strike finder capabilities built in. I'm not sure
what's
> needed to activate it though but the moving map display will show strikes
as
> well if properly configured - probably with expensive optional equipment.
>
> Are
> RV-8 C-GQRV (reserved)
>
> -
>
> Heck, If money is not object, install one 430 (or better yet a 530) and
> stick a Sandel HSI in place of the DG. If space is really a problem, then
> go with the Sandel and use only two NavCom radios and a slim line GPS for
> the Sandel. Doing this would allow you to install a strikefinder or
> stormscope and have it show up on the Sandel as well. You'll loose the
> highway/detail feature of the 430/530 though.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Compression to High Compression O-320 |
> <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
> Does anyone have actual experience they can share
> having changed from low
> compression to high compression in an O-320? Is
> there anything special
> required other than new pistons (rings and pins
> also, I'd imagine)? The
> engine I'm considering changing is an O-320-E2A.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> Bryan Jones -8 N765BJ
> Pearland, Texas
Brian:
Yes the rings (they are the same but you may as well
put new in with new pistons) are needed but the wrist
pin may not be. The 160 does have a thicker wall
wrist pin than the 150. If you go above the 8.5:1
that the 160 has, the same wrist pin is used as in the
160.
I know of one RV-4 that has the 8.5:1 160 HP pistons
installed with the thinner wall 150 HP wrist pins.
You can get pistons in any compression ratio that you
want on an experimental engine. http://www.lycon.com/
then click on the NFS piston link at the top of the
page.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
Listers,
I have my upper and lower cowl on and my FAB air box in place. I find that
the airbox contacts the left side of the air scoop when the air scoop is
clecoed in place. Don't ask me how that happened, 'cause I don't know. The
next time I build one of these I'll offset the air scoop to the left, 'cause
the carburetor is offset to the left too.
I think that the fix will be to put about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of foam between
the airbox flange and the lower cowl to give the engine plenty of room to
shake around without breaking something. I envision cutting a sort of foam
gasket to occupy the space and laminate it in there with epoxy and
fiberglass, then fairing it with filler to make it look smooth.
Anybody done that before? Any alternatives?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vt
RV-6A cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Compression to High Compression O-320 |
"Jones, Bryan D." wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have actual experience they can share having changed from low
> compression to high compression in an O-320? Is there anything special
> required other than new pistons (rings and pins also, I'd imagine)? The
> engine I'm considering changing is an O-320-E2A.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> Bryan Jones -8 N765BJ
> Pearland, Texas
Just done it. No problems so far and this is a very common conversion.
The only change made was ordering 160 pistons with the new Millennium
cylinders. Since I am using the same prop I was using with the tired
150, the climb performance has increased dramatically!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 156 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
More stuff about the engine:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/overhaul.htm
===============================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
I noticed at least 1 or 2 people mentioning that they are 'already'
buying their avionics. If this means that you are at least 6 months to a
year from flying, I'd like to offer a suggestion.
The one thing for an RV likely to cost LESS & do more next year is
avionics. I've spent most of my adult life around various types of
electronic gizmos, & they always cost less & do more next month.
Consider spending the money on something going up in price, or just
invest it until you are actually ready to cut holes in the panel & then
go fly.
Hoping this is a useful thought...
(cheapskate) Charlie
flying -4
Slobovia Outernational Airport
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rywessel(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
here are my thoughts on a "light IFR" panel. I don't have an IFR ticket yet so
I want a panel that I can get one with and then do light IFR.
My avionics plan:
King KX-125 NAV/COM- bought used on the net for cheap. Has 3 audio inputs so I
can channel the marker and the other nav through. Additionally it has a built
in CDI w/radial and auto OBS so I can monitor the VOR/LOC while the GPS is using
the primary CDI.
GX-65 GPS- current thinking, not sure if I want GPS approaches or not. BTW, I spoke
with the people in the UPS aviation booth at Arlington and they mentioned
that a current 28 day database for all IFR is NOT required as long as you verify
the database before you go. UPS Aviation said that the whole GPS database
thing was a way for brand K to make database revenue.
TKM MC-60 CDI- I would love to get any comments on users of this unit. For $550
you get a TSO'd CDI that accepts GPS (+- V), GS, and Composite NAV inputs. Has
a switch that displays either GPS or NAV source. Autopilot output and marker
beacon lights (no receiver) are integrated. This head uses LED's and looks like
the Terra head.
RST marker- use TKM head to display lights route audio input into KX-125.
Flightcom 403mc intercom and low cost switch to switch coms.
KT-76A/ ACK encoder TPX w/ Icarus alt serializer for GPS
Comments appreciated,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A, finishing
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | FW: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A, clarification |
Just to make things clear, I'm using the new S-cowl.
Steve
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stephen J. Soule
> Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 2:21 PM
> To: Rv-List (E-mail)
> Subject: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A
>
> Listers,
>
> I have my upper and lower cowl on and my FAB air box in place. I find
> that the airbox contacts the left side of the air scoop when the air scoop
> is clecoed in place. Don't ask me how that happened, 'cause I don't know.
> The next time I build one of these I'll offset the air scoop to the left,
> 'cause the carburetor is offset to the left too.
>
> I think that the fix will be to put about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of foam between
> the airbox flange and the lower cowl to give the engine plenty of room to
> shake around without breaking something. I envision cutting a sort of
> foam gasket to occupy the space and laminate it in there with epoxy and
> fiberglass, then fairing it with filler to make it look smooth.
>
> Anybody done that before? Any alternatives?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vt
> RV-6A cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Date: Monday, July 10, 2000 1:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A
>
>Listers,
>
>I have my upper and lower cowl on and my FAB air box in place. I find that
>the airbox contacts the left side of the air scoop when the air scoop is
>clecoed in place. Don't ask me how that happened, 'cause I don't know.
The
>next time I build one of these I'll offset the air scoop to the left,
'cause
>the carburetor is offset to the left too.
>
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, Vt
>RV-6A cowl
>
Just a comment to other S-type cowl installers: I was too dumb to use the
pre-molded joggles in the S-cowl that the scoop is supposed to fit into (I
didn't have revised -- if there are any -- instructions). I just drilled
the scoop on allowing lots of clearance for FAB and exhaust, just like the
instructions for the old cowl said. The result is good clearance at FAB and
exhaust, even with two heat muffs in series, one on each side.
Dennis Persyk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I spent a lot of time acquiring the parts for my four-cylinder prime system
on my Bart Lalonde O360A1A. Heres what I used, starting at the cylinders
(primer ports top and bottom I used top) and ending at the electric primer
solenoid;
AN 4022-1 primer fitting, 4 ea. This is a brass fitting, one end of which
screws into the cylinder (pipe thread) and the other accepts the union cone
plus a brass B-nut. The fitting has a very small (Id guess 0.020 or so dia)
hole to atomize the fuel as it goes into the cylinder.
AN800-2 union cone, 4 ea. This is a brass ball with a brass sleeve that fits
over 1/8 OD copper primer line. It gets soldered to the line.
McMaster-Carr ( phone 630-833-0300) p/n 7667A23 High Melting Point Solder.
This is a low-silver content solder melting at 565-574 F. The alloy mixture
is 97.5% lead, 1.5% silver and 1.0% tin.
NoKorode solder flux, (or any paste flux). I found the paste flux to work
better than acid flux on the brass, which is hard to wet with the hi-temp
solder due to its rapid oxidation.
1/8 OD copper primer line several feet
MS20819-2D sleeve, 4 ea your ordinary sleeve for flare fittings
AN818-2D B nuts, 4 ea -- your ordinary B-nuts for flare fittings
AN816-2D nipples, 4 ea connects the 1/8 OD tubing flare fittings to a
home-brew manifold which acts like the spider on an injection system. You
can purchase a pretty anodized manifold from ACS for under $10 if you dont
want to make your own. Manifold mounted on center of top of engine off
stiffener rod for oil cooler (mount it any way you can case bolts are fine
to use).
From manifold to rear baffle via 1/4 aluminum tubing with bulkhead connector
at rear baffle.
Earls Autoflex hose and Earls Autofit fittings from rear baffle to primer
solenoid on firewall.
Solenoid to gascollator via 1/4 tubing.
Hope this helps others. My thanks to John Perry, Rick Lutes and Bill Burns
for getting me all primed up!
Dennis Persyk 6A FWF end in sight
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Welcome to List Richard |
Hi Rich,
Welcome! I'm a new guy too. It took me 2 weeks to drill my first hole!!
The people on the list have been most helpful to me. Being part of the list
and sharing experiences with other builders is a great part of building an
experimental. Just last week I had 4 fellow builders from Boone drive 50
minutes to check out my Horz Stab before I closed it, neat guys!
I agree with Rob, plenty of practice is important. I might add, don't just
drill a bunch of holes to rivet. Start with actual layout to learn accurate
spacing, alignment, etc. Your going love it!
Happy building,
Jack Textor
RV-8 (just finished Horz Stab :))
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dual nav/comms or not? |
In a message dated 7/10/2000 1:51:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
cengland(at)netdoor.com writes:
<< I noticed at least 1 or 2 people mentioning that they are 'already'
buying their avionics. If this means that you are at least 6 months to a
year from flying, I'd like to offer a suggestion.
The one thing for an RV likely to cost LESS & do more next year is
avionics. I've spent most of my adult life around various types of
electronic gizmos, & they always cost less & do more next month.
Consider spending the money on something going up in price, or just
invest it until you are actually ready to cut holes in the panel & then
go fly.
Hoping this is a useful thought...
(cheapskate) Charlie
flying -4
Slobovia Outernational Airport
>>
Not true as the garmin 430 showed, it went up in price.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trouble fitting emp fairing |
I fitted one like yours on a RV-3. We simply used Poly Fiber filler on the
bottom edge of the fairing to seal/fill in the metal to F/G juncture/seam/line
.
This way, once cured, the F/G will lay flat to the sheet metal and only a few 2
or 3 screws to hold on place.
pperryrv(at)hotmail.com on 07/08/2000 10:54:12 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: trouble fitting emp fairing
Hi Listers,
I have a question about fitting the emp. fairing on an RV-4. I started
working on mine about a week ago and still havent got the fit even close.
The thing didnt fit at all when I started, I had to cut off the portion
around the leading edge of the VS to get it to move down on to the HS
properly. A few new layers of fiberglass on the leading edge got that part
back into shape but the whole thing is stressed when I push it down flush to
the skins. I thought maybe it would fit snug if I put clecoes in to hold it
in place but it just pulls away from the skin between the clecoes. The only
way it could fit tight is if I put a fastener every inch or two.
After close examination of the drawing I noticed my fairing is different
than the one shown. I have three pieces, one large piece over the top and
two small strips under the HS. Has Vans changed the design to a better
fitting one? I didnt see any revision notes that would indicate a change.
Anyone have any ideas about how I could get this thing to fit? Is there an
easy way to fabricate a new, better fitting one?
Ive heard other builders complain about the fairing but this is extreme.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 wiring/finishing up fuse for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
Steve,
Does it actually touch? If not, you might not have to do anything.
When I finally finished mine, I was upset to discover that the FAB just
missed the left side of the scoop by less than a 1/2 inch. I found posts in
the archive to suggest that the engine does not move much in that direction.
I also think Scott McDaniel said that he has very little clearance and it's
been fine. In my first 20 hours, I've checked this quite frequently and
to-date, I've not found any rubbing.
If it is touching, I'd re-drill holes and move it even if it means
butchering up the scoop a little. By the time you fiberglass and fill the
seams, you won't see it anyway. It is better to fix it now in your shop
than try to fix it after its painted and your bird is at the airport.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (20.5 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
> I have my upper and lower cowl on and my FAB air box in place. I find
that
> the airbox contacts the left side of the air scoop when the air scoop is
> clecoed in place. Don't ask me how that happened, 'cause I don't know.
The
> next time I build one of these I'll offset the air scoop to the left,
'cause
> the carburetor is offset to the left too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
Yes, and I got into this jam because I followed the instructions and used
the scribe lines and joggles to locate my air scoop. Future builders be
forewarned. This, like so many other things on this project, is an area
where you need to use your head, not the instructions.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
Just a comment to other S-type cowl installers: I was too dumb to use the
pre-molded joggles in the S-cowl that the scoop is supposed to fit into (I
didn't have revised -- if there are any -- instructions). I just drilled
the scoop on allowing lots of clearance for FAB and exhaust, just like the
instructions for the old cowl said. The result is good clearance at FAB and
exhaust, even with two heat muffs in series, one on each side.
Dennis Persyk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
Just a reminder to anyone interested...
experiment - a "Virtual RV fly-in" using the chat room at (
http://www.vansairforce.net ). I'd like to
see if we can get a couple dozen people in the chat room from around the
world all at the same time.
If this works out okay, we might want to consider doing a monthly online
get-together with different 'featured guests'. Jon Johanson comes to mind,
or maybe someone from Van's. See you there. Thanks.
Doug Reeves
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm
<http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm>
http://www.vansairforce.net (they both go to
the same place)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 Slider handles |
Any of you RV6 guys with sliders have an opinion about adding handles
on the roll over bar to make getting in and out easier? I've seen them but
never used one. I'm at the point where I could add them fairly easily.
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 canopy
Larry,
I have them on my -6 and couldn't do without them. It really helps getting in
and out of the airplane without having to grab the canopy.
You can see a picture at:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/laird244198/Laird_RV-6_N515L/
The biggest thing to remember is to get them up as far up as possible to the slider
frame so that there not an obstruction to hit your head on. Mine are about
1/8" under the slider frame and well out of the way.
I made mine from 1/4" dia. x .049 wall 4130 and bent it in my tubing bender. I
drilled through both sides of the roll over bar and welded it to the forward
side, then ground flush and filled. The aft side has no weld. It looks very
clean. In fact, I had about 6 people ask how I had secured it at the airshow
this weekend.
Just another data point....
Laird RV-6 (50 hrs and loving it)
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Aircraft Homecoming |
Don't blame Scott and Tom, blame the weather. I went to bed Friday night to
blue bird weather planning to fly up Saturday morning early to attend the
Lycoming seminar. It was just above VFR at HIO, but I got forced down at
Toledo. I was listening on 122.75 on the ground and heard Tom and Scott
trying to get through at Chehalis. I got forced down again at Bremerton and
heard they had to wait it out at Crest on the eastern route. I missed Gary
Graham's presentation, but he is in my EAA chapter and has already given me
help on my RV-4 project. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Betty Burton" <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Aircraft Homecoming
>
> Listers,
>
> Has anyone heard if the Homecoming will be at Aurora (the new location
for
> Van's in a couple of weeks) or at the old grass strip next to his house?
(That
> would be my preference)
>
> Not much to add to Norman's excellent report from the Arlington fly-in
except
> that there was a tent full of people to attend the Lycoming seminar that
Scott
> from Van's was going to put on Saturday morning, and no Scott. An hour
and a half
> later, another tent full of people gathered to hear the Van's RV 6 and 9
seminar,
> and no representative from Van's were there to give the talk. I spoke to
one of
> the guys at Van's booth after and he said that they just blew it off. No
notice
> to the fly-in staff that were trying to run the seminars, no attempt to
have
> anybody else fill in. Kudos to the great RV4 and 6 builder who stepped in
to talk
> and should be paid by Van for doing so. I really learned a lot from him.
I tried
> to remember his name (Glen Grant)? I'm not sure....but I wish he lived
closer to
> me and my RV project, what a guy! There were a lot of enthusiastic
builders and
> wanna-be's there at the seminars who were really disappointed not to get
to hear
> from our factory representatives. I know that I was one of them. I
realize that
> Van has been having a tough time lately, and the move has got to really be
> stirring things up, but I feel put out to have made a real effort to get
to his
> presentation and not have them show. I'll wait to hear from them what
happened, I
> intend to send them a similar note. I'll post their answer if it sheds
any light
> on this. I don't know how it could be weather, they seemed to be able to
fly the
> demonstrator up from Oregon without any problem.
>
> Dave Burton
> RV6A
>
> Also, thanks Laird, for bringing your beautiful plane all the way from
> southern California, and spending all that time talking to me about it!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Norman,
Thanks for the kind words (and the checks in the mail...)
To everybody else....
I'd just like to add my thoughts about Arlington since I just got back to the computer
this morning.
I had a great time at the show. It was the first time at an airshow with my own
creation for everyone to see (and pick apart). All I can say is WOW! What a
wonderful feeling. All the complements really made my head swell (now back to
reality). I really do appreciate all the comments about the panel. Thanks.
I'd like to thanks to all the listers who dropped by and said Hi. There's too
many to list (pun intended). I enjoyed talking with all of you. I saw several
of the list badges (I wore mine) that Steve Davis did for us, and it was helpful
to identify faces with names. Thanks Steve.
There were soooo many nice looking RV's at the show. One that I thought was exceptional
was one of our own list members. Randall Henderson's RV-6 is just beautiful.
Randall, you should be very proud. (BTW I heard as I just getting ready
to leave that Tyler Feldmen, Oskosh winning RV-6, got beat out by 2 plastic
airplanes for the top honors).
I had fun flying all over the Pacific Northwet. I flew my mom down to Vernonia
via the San Juans and the coast line at some altitude which I won't repeat.
We dropped in to see how my father was doing flying with Mike Seager. Mike said
he was doing great and I didn't see why not put him in the left seat when we
got back to Arlington the next day. You should've seen the grin, at least until
we had to come back to Arlington. (I don't think he had ever experienced
a prime time arrival at a major airshow). I'm glad there were two of us in the
cockpit :-) As soon as he's back home (he and mom drove the motor home up for
ground support), he's cleared to fly the RV solo. It's great to see him flying
again after a break of 27 years. He's like a kid in a candy store!
The other thing that comes to mind is the capability of the RV-6. I left Arlington,
popped up on top and cruised home to Southern California in a little over
6 hours (one fuel stop of course and a couple of rolls thrown in for fun).
What a neat little airplane.
I can't wait until Homecoming (when I won't have to answer the question "why isn't
the cowl painted?").
Tailwinds to all,
Laird RV-6 (50 hours of grins...now if I could just learn to land consistantly)
SoCal
Some observations of today's fly-in. It's a long babble, some might find
delete right now more appropriate.
snip
Laird Owens was back at the corral with his RV6 and his new product, an
aftermarket molded instrument panel. He demonstrated how to win a trampled
grass award by taking off his cowl. It only took two of us to convince him
to do it and within two minutes there was a small crowd. He has a winner
with his new composite RV6 panel. The simplest description would be that it
is very similar to a Glassair panel. It looks great but it is too late for
me. I would plan on one of these from the start if I were doing it again. He
came up with several other options worth mentioning. There were two
compartments under the luggage floor, why didn't I think of that? And wasn't
that a one piece baggage floor? What a great idea for a clean look. His oil
door is very cool. He has a nifty method of removing his horizontal cowl
hinge pins utilizing bicycle spoke parts. It's not too late for me to copy
that. He chose black for a seat color and it looks very modern. I haven't
seen very many RV interiors done in dark fabrics. It looks good and so does
his paint job. He did it himself and it is a very complicated multi-color
job.
snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
>
>Larry, I used .040 2024 T3 for my windshield fairing so one could grab it
>without bending anything while getting in or out. I thought a handle may get
>in the way of my Sun visors and mounts. Stop by and check out my canopy at
>hangar 1-4.
Sounds great. Any idea when you'll be out there next?
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Compression to High Compression O-320 |
all you do is change the pistons & pins...the best little "jop up" for lyc's there
is...jolly in aurora, looking for a rv4-8 or trike mustang
"Jones, Bryan D." wrote:
>
> Does anyone have actual experience they can share having changed from low
> compression to high compression in an O-320? Is there anything special
> required other than new pistons (rings and pins also, I'd imagine)? The
> engine I'm considering changing is an O-320-E2A.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> Bryan Jones -8 N765BJ
> Pearland, Texas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
In a message dated 7/10/00 2:46:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<< Listers,
I have my upper and lower cowl on and my FAB air box in place. I find that
the airbox contacts the left side of the air scoop when the air scoop is
clecoed in place. Don't ask me how that happened, 'cause I don't know. The
next time I build one of these I'll offset the air scoop to the left, 'cause
the carburetor is offset to the left too.
I think that the fix will be to put about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of foam between
the airbox flange and the lower cowl to give the engine plenty of room to
shake around without breaking something. I envision cutting a sort of foam
gasket to occupy the space and laminate it in there with epoxy and
fiberglass, then fairing it with filler to make it look smooth.
Anybody done that before? Any alternatives?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vt
RV-6A cowl >>
Steve,
I encountered EXACTLY this problem just last night, although my scoop is
already glassed in place (and my cowl is complete, and the airbox was
complete, etc, etc, etc). What I did was drill out the rivets attaching the
fiberglass bowl, and raise the plastic bowl higher (by about 1/2") in
relation to the plate to which it is riveted... I've got it temporarily
installed right now, but will cut down the alternate air door, and re-rivet
everything tonight...
I think this would be your best solution too.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Meeting of RV-8 Builders |
Hi, gang--
For the last few years, a bunch of RV-8 builders have gathered at
Oshkosh to meet and get to know one another. I've organized these
meetings at the Theater in the Woods and had great turnouts. It has
been great to cement friendships with people with whom I've chatted many
times online, grappling with the pains of building our dream planes. To
finally put faces with names has been really gratifying, and the mutual
support only further bolsters my determination to finish this project.
I'll be arriving at Oshkosh on Saturday, July 22nd--the weekend before
it actually cranks up--and leaving on Sunday, July 30th. I'm setting
aside a couple of meeting times if anyone is interested:
Thursday, July 27th, 10:00am
Sunday, July 30th, 10:00am
As before, we'll meet somewhere in the shade of the trees of the Theater
in the Woods. I'll try to remember to bring Sharpies and nametags for
everyone. Bob Dimeo is again in charge of the donuts (just kidding,
Bob!)
As always, everyone is welcome, whether building an -8(a) or not. Hope
to see you and put a face with a name. Any questions, give me a buzz.
--Don McNamara
N8RV (fuse...still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Static line plumbing |
Hi,
Can anyone recommend an easy plumbing transition for my static line. I
need to go from either 1/8 pipe or 1/4" flare to the rubber tube that
fits on fitting on an ACK altitude encoder.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |
I put the handles on my RV-6 slider windshild bow and
after 600 hours in less than 3 years of flying, would
not be without them. IMHO, they are a must have.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Root Fairings(drag) |
In a message dated 7/10/00 2:10:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<<
BERNIE I USE THE GLASS ONES -BOUNTY-HUNTER FASTEST 180HP RV4 SUN 100
227.72MPH TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport >>
Hi Tom,
Don't shout at the messenger, I'm just relaying what Rich and Roger said at a
breakfast at Sebring last month.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
> Listers,
>
> I have my upper and lower cowl on and my FAB air box in place. I find that
> the airbox contacts the left side of the air scoop when the air scoop is
> clecoed in place. Don't ask me how that happened, 'cause I don't know. The
> next time I build one of these I'll offset the air scoop to the left, 'cause
> the carburetor is offset to the left too.
>
> I think that the fix will be to put about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of foam between
> the airbox flange and the lower cowl to give the engine plenty of room to
> shake around without breaking something. I envision cutting a sort of foam
> gasket to occupy the space and laminate it in there with epoxy and
> fiberglass, then fairing it with filler to make it look smooth.
>
> Anybody done that before? Any alternatives?
>
> _
FWIW I mounted my scoop smack dab in the center and everything worked out ok.
I cut the scoop along the scribe line, clecoed it in the recess in the cowl and
then cut out the center portion of the cowl. The clearance problem I have is
with the left exhaust tube running very close to the cowl as it passes by the
scoop. I have Robin's heat muff installed on this pipe and my clearance is
about 3/8" from the cowl. I have SS tape stuck on the cowl to help reflect the
heat. The air box is close to the cowl/scoop, about 1/8", and has never rubbed
in 61 hrs.
As for your fitting problem I would just move the rear of the scoop to the left
a little since it is only clecoed and not glassed in place. Just line up the
inlet hole in the scoop with the FAB, position the rear to clear the FAB, drill
and cleco into place. See how it looks and glass it up.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Slider handles |