RV-Archive.digest.vol-iw
July 12, 2000 - July 19, 2000
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott R McDaniels [mailto:smcdaniels(at)juno.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 8:03 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Van's Aircraft Homecoming
Dave,
First of all we weren't there for the forum (s?) because of
weather just
like Rion said.
As for the demonstrators being there... the only one you
would have seen
before 11:00 AM was the RV-8A because it had been left there
over night.
We pushed the RV-9A and the RV-6A into our display area at
11:00 AM.
I think you must have misunderstood the info you got. We
did not "blow
off" the Forum (I actually enjoy doing them). You probably
talked to
Rob, one of the newest guys at Van's (or if not then it
wasn't a Van's
employee that you talked to because he was the only one
there until
11:00AM).
I wish you had just come by the booth later in the day and
personally
asked Tom or I what happened. Regardless of what you think,
everyone at
Van's takes our participation in fly ins seriously. Check
us out at OSH
some time. We are at the tent longer hours than probably
any other kit
vendor (sometimes until 7:00 PM, 2 hours past normal closing
time). We
give more "Free" demo rides than anyone. We spend countless
hours in the
sun giving everyone wanting to, a chance to "Try -on" one or
all of the
airplanes on display, and talking non stop all day until we
just about
lose our voice.
As for the Lycoming forum that I was supposed to do?????????
Seeing this in the archives was the first I had ever heard
of it.
You must be mistaken me for another Scott, because I was
never contacted
by anyone about doing a Lycoming engine forum.
About your orig. question, The fly-in is still planed for
our new
facility at Aurora. We are not yet moved in (should start
in a week or
two) but since the fly-in is still about 7 weeks away we
hope to be all
settled in by then.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
Ok, I give up. I've tried to find the text of that Appendix (or even the
whole FAR) on the net!
Where is it hiding?
Seems to be important if one has to sign his name that one has done a
condition inspection in accordance of the scope and detail of that
Appendix.
Finn
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Locating parts for my air drill |
> << Listers,
> After 3 years, my Cleco air drill has started acting up. I need a new
> seal for the throttle valve. I really like this drill. I need to find a
> web site or snail mail address for Cleco Pneumatic.
snipped
>
> CLECO Air Tool is now part of the Cooper Tools (Dotco, Buckeye,Rockwell) Air
> Tool Family. You can call one of the below numbers and someone should be
> able to connect you to a distributor or authorized repair center in your
> area:
>
> ATLANTA
> Ph: 770-446-0368
> Fax: 770-446-9630
> snipped
Mr. Brown,
Thank you for your help. I will certainly keep you in mind regarding future tool
purchases. I had managed to discover that Cleco Air Tool was part of Cooper
Industries yesterday on my own. Unfortunately, there was no web page for the
Cleco Air Tool division. I did manage to contact them via email though.
I called them a few minutes ago and spoke to Susan at the Atlanta office. She
knew who I was immediately. She had been trying to fax me the needed info.
Naturally, I was online looking for info. My computer and fax machine share a
phone line. I now have the information I needed. That phone number really
expedited matters. Thanks again.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
A good engine *(multi-point) monitor ( GEM-INSIGHT,allegro,JPI). An engine
monitor was moved up to my #1 purchase in my "'avionics"' pannel. Its insurance
on the large ticket item in the plane ( My Butt & the engine)..........no
kidding......
billshook(at)mindspring.com on 07/12/2000 10:40:12 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: IFR
I am not an IFR pilot, however I have always intended to be once the plane
is done and my financial status recovers. In any event, after a discussion
with a friend of mine yesterday I have come to the conclusion that I do need
light IFR capability in my RV-4 to fill its mission requirements. Not being
IFR trained myself as of yet, I need to know from those with more knowledge
than myself what exactly I NEED to have. I intend to have a Garmin 295 (or
it's equivelant by that time) in the cockpit for normal navigation. Navaid
wing leveler has always been on the list of necessities as well. In
addition to that I am leaning in the direction of an Apollo SL-30 with it's
matching GS indicator, Micro encoder as my Mode C, electric horizon and DG,
and the completion of the six pack. Depressing that I can't go with the
glass type instruments I really want...
So, am I missing anything here?
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Rudder Cables |
From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Jerry:
We do not have return springs on the rudder. THe cables attach at the
rear & at the front.
You can built new (front srtapes) to move your pettles if needed.
You may want to spend the $55.00 & get van's pre-plains & instructions.
It would be like a service manuel & parts detail on a certified.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> Hello all,
> I purchased my RV already built and am ready to have the
> annual inspection
> Where is, or what is the proper adjustment of ,the rudder
> cables..Are there
> turn buckles? Where are they located?
> Please email me direct and I want to have this adjustment
> done tomorrow.
>
> Thanks Jerry Bryan
> RV6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
In a message dated 7/11/00 2:29:43 PM Central Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Be sure the bolts and nuts that stick out below the filter can fit
also....... >>
What nuts and bolts are below the filter?
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Room at OSH available |
I've been forced to cancel my trip to OSH so the room I was going to stay in
will be available. Its at someone's home, a room with a queen bed. The home
has centeral air. Haven't stayed there before but they sound like nice folks
on the phone.
Anyone interested give them a call:
Sharon Hawkins
920-232-8554
If someone grabs it please let me know.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
Here it is!!!! Courtesy of the Bellanca-Champion Club
APPENDIX D TO PART 43 - SCOPE AND DETAIL OF ITEMS (AS APPLICABLE TO THE
PARTICULAR AIRCRAFT) TO BE INCLUDED IN ANNUAL AND 100-HOUR INSPECTIONS
(a) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall, before
that inspection, remove or open all necessary inspection plates, access
doors, fairing, and cowling. He shall thoroughly clean the aircraft and
aircraft engine.
(b) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) the following components of the fuselage and hull group:
(1) Fabric and skin - for deterioration, distortion, other evidence of
failure, and defective or insecure attachment of fittings.
(2) Systems and components - for improper installation, apparent defects,
and unsatisfactory operation.
(3) Envelope, gas bags, ballast tanks, and related parts - for poor
condition.
(c) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) the following components of the cabin and cockpit group:
(1) Generally - for uncleanliness and loose equipment that might foul the
controls.
(2) Seats and safety belts - for poor condition and apparent defects.
(3) Windows and windshields - for deterioration and breakage.
(4) Instruments - for poor condition, mounting, marking, and (where
practicable) improper operation.
(5) Flight and engine controls - for improper installation and improper
operation.
(6) Batteries - for improper installation and improper charge.
(7) All systems - for improper installation, poor general condition,
apparent and obvious defects, and insecurity of attachment.
(d) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) components of the engine and nacelle group as follows:
(1) Engine section - for visual evidence of excessive oil, fuel, or
hydraulic leaks, and sources of such leaks.
(2) Studs and nuts - for improper torquing and obvious defects.
(3) Internal engine - for cylinder compression and for metal particles or
foreign matter on screens and sump drain plugs. If there is weak cylinder
compression, for improper internal condition and improper internal
tolerances.
(4) Engine mount - for cracks, looseness of mounting, and looseness of
engine to mount.
(5) Flexible vibration dampeners - for poor condition and deterioration.
(6) Engine controls - for defects, improper travel, and improper safetying.
(7) Lines, hoses, and clamps - for leaks, improper condition and looseness.
(8) Exhaust stacks - for cracks, defects, and improper attachment.
(9) Accessories - for apparent defects in security of mounting.
(10) All systems - for improper installation, poor general condition,
defects, and insecure attachment.
(11) Cowling - for cracks, and defects.
(e) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) the following components of the landing gear group:
(1) All units - for poor condition and insecurity of attachment.
(2) Shock absorbing devices - for improper oleo fluid level.
(3) Linkages, trusses, and members - for undue or excessive wear fatigue,
and distortion.
(4) Retracting and locking mechanism - for improper operation.
(5) Hydraulic lines - for leakage.
(6) Electrical system - for chafing and improper operation of switches.
(7) Wheels - for cracks, defects, and condition of bearings.
(8) Tires - for wear and cuts.
(9) Brakes - for improper adjustment.
(10) Floats and skis - for insecure attachment and obvious or apparent
defects.
(f) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) all components of the wing and center section assembly
for poor general condition, fabric or skin deterioration, distortion,
evidence of failure, and insecurity of attachment.
(g) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) all components and systems that make up the complete
empennage assembly for poor general condition, fabric or skin deterioration,
distortion, evidence of failure, insecure attachment, improper component
installation, and improper component operation.
(h) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) the following components of the propeller group:
(1) Propeller assembly - for cracks, nicks, binds, and oil leakage.
(2) Bolts - for improper torquing and lack of safetying.
(3) Anti-icing devices - for improper operations and obvious defects.
(4) Control mechanisms - for improper operation, insecure mounting, and
restricted travel.
(i) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) the following components of the radio group:
(1) Radio and electronic equipment - for improper installation and insecure
mounting.
(2) Wiring and conduits - for improper routing, insecure mounting, and
obvious defects.
(3) Bonding and shielding - for improper installation and poor condition.
(4) Antenna including trailing antenna - for poor condition, insecure
mounting, and improper operation.
(j) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall inspect
(where applicable) each installed miscellaneous item that is not otherwise
covered by this listing for improper installation and improper operation.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 10:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: FAR Part 43, Appendix D
>
> Ok, I give up. I've tried to find the text of that Appendix (or even the
> whole FAR) on the net!
>
> Where is it hiding?
>
> Seems to be important if one has to sign his name that one has done a
> condition inspection in accordance of the scope and detail of that
> Appendix.
>
> Finn
>
>
> Why pay for something you could get for free?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
> The clearance problem I have is with the left exhaust
> tube running very close to the cowl as it passes by the
> scoop. I have Robin's heat muff installed on this pipe
> and my clearance is about 3/8" from the cowl. I have SS
> tape stuck on the cowl to help reflect the heat.
Another good reason to offset the scoop if at all possible. But if its too
late for that, there is a pretty easy fix. Rotate the pipes -- left side CW,
right side CCW. This will give you more clearance with the scoop and bottom
of the firewall. The negative is that the turndowns will end up toed in. I
had the same clearance problem and adjusted the hangars so the muff wouldn't
chafe on the cowl, but instead the pipes chafed on the bottom of the
firewall and almost wore through (the pipes) before I caught it. I rotated
the pipes and cut them off and put on some extensions, and was able to
reorient them pointing aft. Vetterman has some nice extensions with less of
a turndown that allegedly provide less drag/more thrust anyway, so there was
a silver lining to the whole thing.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
It is hiding at ...
http://www.faa.gov/avr/AFS/FARS/far-43.txt
But I got mine from an Avantext CD!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 10:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: FAR Part 43, Appendix D
>
> Ok, I give up. I've tried to find the text of that Appendix (or even the
> whole FAR) on the net!
>
> Where is it hiding?
>
> Seems to be important if one has to sign his name that one has done a
> condition inspection in accordance of the scope and detail of that
> Appendix.
>
> Finn
>
>
> Why pay for something you could get for free?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
>
>Ok, I give up. I've tried to find the text of that Appendix (or even the
>whole FAR) on the net!
>
>Where is it hiding?
http://www.faa.gov/avr/AFS/FARS/far-43.txt
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
There are long AN-3 bolts that hold the K&N air filter assembly to the air
box and carburetor. The bolts and nuts protrude about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below
the air filter inside the air box.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
In a message dated 7/11/00 2:29:43 PM Central Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Be sure the bolts and nuts that stick out below the filter can fit
also....... >>
What nuts and bolts are below the filter?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Room at OSH available |
Randall,
I talked to Sharon and took your spot. She said that as soon as she
receives my deposit, she'll return yours.
I was almost ready to post a message to the list this morning looking for a
room. I'm sorry you can't make it but I'm glad I was able to help you get
your deposit at least.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (20.5 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 12:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Room at OSH available
>
> I've been forced to cancel my trip to OSH so the room I was going to stay
in
> will be available. Its at someone's home, a room with a queen bed. The
home
> has centeral air. Haven't stayed there before but they sound like nice
folks
> on the phone.
>
> Anyone interested give them a call:
>
> Sharon Hawkins
> 920-232-8554
>
> If someone grabs it please let me know.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
Subject: | FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
I find it humorous, that in the link to Appendix D that was just posted,
they seem to have an error in identifying even themselves...
I refer to Appendix B, paragraph b(4), where it describes the correct
logbook statement for repairs:
"...was repaired and inspected in accordance with current Regulations of the
Federal Aviation Agency..."
Shouldn't that be "Federal Aviation Administration", folks?
Troy Whistman
Ft. Worth, TX
RV-8 gonna-be
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
On the FAB-320 there is a oval alum. metal disk that seals the K&N filter
bottom. Pinch bolts exit the bottom most oval disk and there are washers & nuts
on the end of the bolts. The heads of the 4 inch long bolt(s) are on the carb.
plate that bolts to the carb bottom. The FAB-360 is of a different design
DWENSING(at)aol.com on 07/12/2000 01:00:53 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A
In a message dated 7/11/00 2:29:43 PM Central Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Be sure the bolts and nuts that stick out below the filter can fit
also....... >>
What nuts and bolts are below the filter?
Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
DO NOT POST
Yes, it should read Federal Aviation Administration. The "Administration"
handle was given when the FAA was put under control of the Transportation
Department (A huge mistake....they inherited a '500-lb gorilla, and didn't
know what to do with it except to take detailed control of a new unit which
was larger than the entire Department.)
When the FAA was an independent unit under the Executive Branch it was then
properly called an "Agency" .... and worked with a lot less
bureaucratic hindrance.
FWW
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
I have finally updated my website. I have added pictures of my instrument
panel, engine plumbing, and cable brackets. Let me know what you think.
Also, be advised of the new website address.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
In a message dated 7/12/00 1:25:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
<<
There are long AN-3 bolts that hold the K&N air filter assembly to the air
box and carburetor. The bolts and nuts protrude about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below
the air filter inside the air box.
>>
Thanks Steve. My FAB must be different or I've done it wrong. I have metal
clips on the top plate that are to hold the filter in place I think. But will
recheck.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
In a message dated 7/12/00 3:01:59 PM Central Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< On the FAB-320 there is a oval alum. metal disk that seals the K&N filter
bottom. Pinch bolts exit the bottom most oval disk and there are washers &
nuts
on the end of the bolts. The heads of the 4 inch long bolt(s) are on the
carb.
plate that bolts to the carb bottom. The FAB-360 is of a different design
>>
Thank you. Yes, mine is a 360.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: lowering the air scoop on my RV-6A |
Ever think of installing the bolts from the bottom to the top?
Tom
DWENSING(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/12/00 1:25:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
> SSoule(at)pfclaw.com writes:
>
> <<
> There are long AN-3 bolts that hold the K&N air filter assembly to the air
> box and carburetor. The bolts and nuts protrude about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below
> the air filter inside the air box.
> >>
> Thanks Steve. My FAB must be different or I've done it wrong. I have metal
> clips on the top plate that are to hold the filter in place I think. But will
> recheck.
> Dale Ensing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
If any of you are interested I put up a few photos of the many
RVs that were in attendance at Arlington. I have not heard
how many attended over the week but the RV parking area was full
most of the time on Friday and Saturday.
http://www.teleport.com/~jsflyrv/Arlington2000.html
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Thanks Jerry
do no archive
Shelby Smith
shelbysmith(at)mac.com
----------
>From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Arlington
>Date: Wed, Jul 12, 2000, 10:28 PM
>
>
> If any of you are interested I put up a few photos of the many
> RVs that were in attendance at Arlington. I have not heard
> how many attended over the week but the RV parking area was full
> most of the time on Friday and Saturday.
>
> http://www.teleport.com/~jsflyrv/Arlington2000.html
>
> Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Gap Fairing (RV-6) |
> > 1. Should I continue the 2 1/2" Spacing on the platenuts?
I didn't -- went with more like 5". May seem wide but its just a fairing,
and I bent the edge down a little so it doesn't scallop. Came out fine. I
used #6 screws although I thin Van's specifies #8s.
> > 2. Is the fairing meant to end even with the aft end of the top wing
> > skin, or is it meant to overlap the flap?
As others have said, flush with the wing skin.
> > 3. I will put platenuts on the edge of the fuel tank skin. Should the
> > platenuts on the top wing skin be inline (laterally) with the fuel tank
> > platenuts. If so they need to be inside the wing rather than on the
> > edge of the wing in the area aft of the fuel tank.
I put mine inboard of the rib or in the rib flange, don't remember which for
sure. Also trimmed the outer edge of the fairing back so it didn't extend
more than 3/4" outboard of the screw line. I did this because I figured with
a lot of metal outside the screw line (and with widely spaced screws) it
would have more of a tendency to scallop or lift in places. Made a gentle
curve out where it has to go wider for the tank screws.
The aft bottom part is somewhat tricky -- try to figure a way to get a small
amount of the fairing to tuck under the wing skin or fuselage skin, or maybe
even rivet on some sort of clip it could fit under. Can't remember exactly
how I did this except that I did add a screw after the fact with a riv-nut
(blind nut) because the aft end hung down.
If I get out there soon I'll take some pictures and put them on the web.
You're right, it would be nice to see pics of this.
BTW I do have a web site with a number of construction details (mostly from
later in the project) at http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject. Check it
out!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Vacuum Instrument bashing! |
I've got vacum and kind of wish I had gone all electric, but at the time I
was installing, the price kind of got in the way. Personally I'd feel more
secure with a redundant electrical system such as Bob Nuckolls describes
than I do with the vacum stuff. Big reason is the relatively low lifespan of
the pump, and the possibility that the pump could take one or both vacum
instruments with it if it goes. Jeez who needs that.
Plus my rebuilt vac. DG crapped out 70 hours in. Don't know why but the best
Mid-Continent (who did the rebuild) would do was sell me a new one for $100
or so off the new w/core price, since it was out of warranty. Seems there
are still a lot of manufacturers who think its ok to have a calendar based,
as opposed to hours-in-service based warranty. I recommend anyone purchasing
instruments/avionics ask specifically which theirs is and tell them you're
going elsewhere if they say calendar based (even if you have to crawl back
to them later). We need to let companies know that homebuilts are becoming a
big part of their business and require a different kind of warranty
treatment.
And yes I know about the shelf life of gyro instruments, and this unit was
placed in service inside the manufacturer's recommended shelf life.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Repairman Cert - Help! |
I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I qualify
for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man about
that?
He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
Any ideas?
Finn
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
Might I suggest a few well placed body shots followed by a good right to the
kisser. :-)
Obviously I'm kidding, but I can feel your frustration. That pencil pusher
has no idea the amount of work involved in building that plane. Try asking
him if he thinks there is an A&P out there that could work on your plane
without asking YOU to explain the systems you put together. Explain that
there simply is NOONE more qualified than you to service that aircraft and
that 99% of the tractor...er I mean Lycoming mechanics out there couldn't
find the proper end of an auto engine to place forward. NO-Way in the world
is anyone else going to understand what you've done in there, unless you
explain it or pay them per hour to figure it out. Tell him there is NO
manual to explain to the A$P which wire is which, where to look for what or
which way the engine turns. Without a manual, there is no A$P. If all
logic fails, I revert to my original recommendation. I prefer to tap them
with a left to get their attention...then follow with the right :-)
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 9:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: Repairman Cert - Help!
>
> I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I qualify
> for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
> started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
> skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
> and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
> well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
> control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
> spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
> bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
> spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
> putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
>
> To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
> current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man about
> that?
>
> He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Finn
>
>
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
> He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
1st, I believe that Vans has documentation from the FAA that the Quickbuild
kit conforms to the 51% rule. Seems to me that you have done a lot more in
building your craft than a Quickbuilder would do.
2nd, from what you said above, it is apparent that the inspector is not
familiar with the rules. Is he an actual FAA employee, or is he a DAR?
3rd, it also sounds like the inspector is more worried about covering his
own butt than in giving you a meaningful inspection.
My suggestion; find a new DAR! Perhaps another local builder can recommend
someone to you who believes that his job has more to do with safety than
with paperwork. There are plenty out there who do; in fact probably the
great majority.
I have had bolt-together ultralights certificated with a repairman's
certificate, one which I did not even build, but bought as a basket case and
restored. My experiences with those and my RV have suggested that their are
no hard rules; just prudence and common sense to be applied by the
inspector. Get a new inspector.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
eCharts
http://www.eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
>
>Here it is!!!! Courtesy of the Bellanca-Champion Club
>
>APPENDIX D TO PART 43 - SCOPE AND DETAIL OF ITEMS (AS APPLICABLE TO THE
>PARTICULAR AIRCRAFT) TO BE INCLUDED IN ANNUAL AND 100-HOUR INSPECTIONS
>(a) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall, before
>that inspection, remove or open all necessary inspection plates, access
>doors, fairing, and cowling. He shall thoroughly clean the aircraft and
>aircraft engine.
Just curious . . . asside from being a reasonable starting point
for a builder's maintenance checklist, how did FAR 43 (and in particular
100 hour inspections) find it's way into a discussion about amateur
built aircraft?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
>
>I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I qualify
>for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
>started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
>skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
>and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
>well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
>control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
>spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
>bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
>spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
>putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
>
>To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
>current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man about
>that?
>
>He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
>certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
>quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Finn
>
Call the EAA and ask for Earl Lawrence. He's the EAA/FAA
liason guy there. Don't wrestle with the local FAA guy, it's
like spinning your wheels in the sand . . . the harder you try
the deeper you sink. There are documents and precidents within
the FAA that Earl can provide for you.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken" <kgray(at)tca.net> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
Try doing it as a group or team building the plane, listing you as the
person doing the repairs.
This is the same as several people building a plane and only one will get
the repairman cert.
Good luck.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: Repairman Cert - Help!
>
> I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I qualify
> for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
> started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
> skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
> and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
> well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
> control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
> spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
> bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
> spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
> putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
>
> To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
> current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man about
> that?
>
> He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Finn
>
>
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
Is there a different FAA office fairly close that you can move your plane
inside the service area? A lot of builders around KC have been bringing
there planes southwest to get in the area serviced by Wichita. The Wichita
office has inspectors that are much more understanding about homebuilts and
what they go through. So, builders from other areas move there planes to
airports inside the Wichita area so they can call Wichita instead of the KC
office. Call other Chapters around and get their impression. We get two or
three planes at our local airport a year doing this. After inspection and
fly off they go home.
Just a thought.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Jon arrived at Goose Bay, Labrador yesterday about 6 PM after what he said
was a "fairly routine flight". He was on instruments about four hours
between Scotland and Goose and did an ILS at Iceland.
He will be heading for Colorado today about 14 hours flying time from Goose.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
Bob,
All expermintal AW Certs contain the verbage that the aircraft must undergo an
annual
condition inspection that conforms to FAR 43, part D.
Bruce
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
> >
> >Here it is!!!! Courtesy of the Bellanca-Champion Club
> >
> >APPENDIX D TO PART 43 - SCOPE AND DETAIL OF ITEMS (AS APPLICABLE TO THE
> >PARTICULAR AIRCRAFT) TO BE INCLUDED IN ANNUAL AND 100-HOUR INSPECTIONS
> >(a) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall, before
> >that inspection, remove or open all necessary inspection plates, access
> >doors, fairing, and cowling. He shall thoroughly clean the aircraft and
> >aircraft engine.
>
> Just curious . . . asside from being a reasonable starting point
> for a builder's maintenance checklist, how did FAR 43 (and in particular
> 100 hour inspections) find it's way into a discussion about amateur
> built aircraft?
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
AC 65-23A, Certification of Repainmen (Experimental Aircraft Builders)
10. Typical Aircraft Operating Limitations, "... in accordance with FAR Part 43,
Appendix D...".
Finn
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
Just curious . . . asside from being a reasonable starting point
> for a builder's maintenance checklist, how did FAR 43 (and in particular
> 100 hour inspections) find it's way into a discussion about amateur
> built aircraft?
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
The repairman's certificate is always issued to one of the builders at
certification WHEN requested. This makes it possible for partners or a
school project to have a repairman among the builders.
If you have ANY problems contact Earl Lawrence at EAA to straighten and
clarify this. From the statement that a "quick builder" doesn't qualify
show me he doesn't know what he is talking about and is doing a "local"
interpretation of the regs.
Earl can be contacted by e-mail at...
elawrence(at)eaa.org
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: Repairman Cert - Help!
>
> I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I qualify
> for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
> started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
> skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
> and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
> well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
> control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
> spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
> bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
> spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
> putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
>
> To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
> current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man about
> that?
>
> He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Finn
>
>
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
This is the link for the reg.
http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/faa/8300/8300_vol2/2_025_00.pdf
You could claim a dissolved partnership, but all you have to show is a
MAJORITY of the work via your work and picture logs. You can get a
repairman's for a re-build is over 51% of the plane is rebuilt. Note the
quote...
"(1) The airworthiness inspector has knowledge that
the aircraft was constructed by the individual builder. The
inspector may accept information from another airworthiness
inspector involved in the original aircraft certification and
familiar with the builder's expertise."
For what it is worth, the quick build option since it meets the 51% rule is
eligible without question.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: Repairman Cert - Help!
>
> I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I qualify
> for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
> started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
> skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
> and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
> well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
> control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
> spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
> bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
> spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
> putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
>
> To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
> current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man about
> that?
>
> He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Finn
>
>
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
Bob, the person asked for it so I sent it. These are the things that an
experimental aircraft inspection should do as well.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FAR Part 43, Appendix D
>
> >
> >Here it is!!!! Courtesy of the Bellanca-Champion Club
> >
> >APPENDIX D TO PART 43 - SCOPE AND DETAIL OF ITEMS (AS APPLICABLE TO THE
> >PARTICULAR AIRCRAFT) TO BE INCLUDED IN ANNUAL AND 100-HOUR INSPECTIONS
> >(a) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall, before
> >that inspection, remove or open all necessary inspection plates, access
> >doors, fairing, and cowling. He shall thoroughly clean the aircraft and
> >aircraft engine.
>
> Just curious . . . asside from being a reasonable starting point
> for a builder's maintenance checklist, how did FAR 43 (and in particular
> 100 hour inspections) find it's way into a discussion about amateur
> built aircraft?
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Thu, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004149931@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
13 Jul 2000 10:24:05.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re:First Flight of RV4 N854TB |
Congratulations Tom! Wow. 2000 fpm @ 120mph. That must have felt good.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, will fly soon
> ** Original Subject: RV-List: Re:First Flight of RV4 N854TB
> ** Original Sender: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
> ** Original Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:05:49 -0700
> ** Original Message follows...
>
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I just had to report that Van's gets to increase his Hobbs meter by one
> RV4. After six years and two months of construction, my RV4 took to the
> skies over Orange County, New York on July 10, 2000 at 7:45 PM. Everything
> went extremely well. Power on takeoff was nothing short of awesome. Initial
> climb at an indicated airspeed of 120 mph was 2,000 fpm. My thanks to all
> those on the list that have helped and supported me through the building
> process. It's so nice to finally begin the flying phase of owning an RV.
> I'm sure most of you know that these projects just don't happen without the
> dedicated support of a partner. My special thanks to my wife. I don't know
> quite how I am going to repay her after all these years but I understand she
> has a list.
> The most amazing thing to me is that the darn thing came in little boxes
> via the UPS truck.
>
> Tom Brown - RV4 FLYING Hobbs 4.8 hours and climbing
>
>
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Thu, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004150828@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
13 Jul 2000 11:02:48.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Repairman Cert - Help! |
Finn,
It's difficult to deal with a stubborn inspector. Did you ask him what you would
need to do
to convince him you had done 51%?
My approach would be to compute your hours as compared to the "average" builder.
Hopefully you have documented your hours. If so, find out the "average" number
of hours it
takes to build your model of RV (ask Van's) and do the arithmetic --- I'll bet
you've done
much more than 51% of most home builders (given all those things you mentioned).
Good luck!
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, close to finished
>
>
> I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I qualify
> for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
> started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
> skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
> and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
> well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
> control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
> spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
> bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
> spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
> putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
>
> To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
> current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man about
> that?
>
> He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Finn
>
>
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Listers,
I have manual flaps on my plane...a few weeks ago before I took the wings off for
paint I noticed some play in the flaps which amounted to about 3/8" overall
in the neutral position. Most of the play seems to be coming from a very small
amount of slop in the catch mechanism inside the flap handle. Scott @ Van's
said it should be OK, that the flaps will "ride" to whatever position is neutral
for them. I was thinking when I fly I should note their position and put
in an a piece of angle along the side of the fuse over the flap to act as a stop,
like many others have. Can anyone see having this much play in the flap
mechanism causing any problems for the first few flights before I put the stop
in?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ FINAL assembly!
Inspection 7/24 1:00pm
Lets see, inspection on the 24th, OSH on the 26th, if I fly 8 hours a day...hmm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Listers,
>
>I have manual flaps on my plane...a few weeks ago before I took the
>wings off for paint I noticed some play in the flaps which amounted
>to about 3/8" overall in the neutral position. Most of the play
>seems to be coming from a very small amount of slop in the catch
>mechanism inside the flap handle. Scott @ Van's said it should be
>OK, that the flaps will "ride" to whatever position is neutral for
>them. I was thinking when I fly I should note their position and
>put in an a piece of angle along the side of the fuse over the flap
>to act as a stop, like many others have. Can anyone see having this
>much play in the flap mechanism causing any problems for the first
>few flights before I put the stop in?
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 N244BJ FINAL assembly!
>Inspection 7/24 1:00pm
>Lets see, inspection on the 24th, OSH on the 26th, if I fly 8 hours
>a day...hmm
Bob,
Most production small aircraft that I look at have about that much
slop in the flaps, and it doesn't seem to cause them any grief. Once
you are flying, and there is an airload on them, they will ride up as
far as possible, which will take out any slop. You need a small
amount of play in the catch mechanism or it would tend to jam up on
you anyway. Just based on your description, I'm not convinced you
need to do anything at all.
Good luck on the first flight.
I'm leaving for Argentina in less than an hour, and will be off line
for several weeks.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting elevators, etc)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
well, slop equals flutter potential. Ask Van's. Probaby within acceptable
limits but never hurts to ask the source...
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: flap slop
>Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 15:29:36 -0400
>
>
>
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >I have manual flaps on my plane...a few weeks ago before I took the
> >wings off for paint I noticed some play in the flaps which amounted
> >to about 3/8" overall in the neutral position. Most of the play
> >seems to be coming from a very small amount of slop in the catch
> >mechanism inside the flap handle. Scott @ Van's said it should be
> >OK, that the flaps will "ride" to whatever position is neutral for
> >them. I was thinking when I fly I should note their position and
> >put in an a piece of angle along the side of the fuse over the flap
> >to act as a stop, like many others have. Can anyone see having this
> >much play in the flap mechanism causing any problems for the first
> >few flights before I put the stop in?
> >
> >Bob Japundza
> >RV-6 N244BJ FINAL assembly!
> >Inspection 7/24 1:00pm
> >Lets see, inspection on the 24th, OSH on the 26th, if I fly 8 hours
> >a day...hmm
>
>Bob,
>
>Most production small aircraft that I look at have about that much
>slop in the flaps, and it doesn't seem to cause them any grief. Once
>you are flying, and there is an airload on them, they will ride up as
>far as possible, which will take out any slop. You need a small
>amount of play in the catch mechanism or it would tend to jam up on
>you anyway. Just based on your description, I'm not convinced you
>need to do anything at all.
>
>Good luck on the first flight.
>
>I'm leaving for Argentina in less than an hour, and will be off line
>for several weeks.
>
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting elevators, etc)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Thu, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004154184@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
13 Jul 2000 13:23:31.-0700(at)matronics.com
Hi Bob,
Glad to hear you're getting close to flying your bird. As I recall from Van's
written
instructions, he says to make sure the flaps will extend at least 44 degrees (SINCE
THE AIR
PRESSURE WILL PUSH THEM BACK UP 3 OR 4 DEGREES). So it appears he is
anticipating some slop in the mechanism. I have the electric flaps and they also
have this
wiggle in them. I went ahead and put some angle at the top to limit the flaps
from going too
far up.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, getting close too
> ** Original Subject: Re: RV-List: flap slop
> ** Original Sender: "lucky macy"
> ** Original Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:14:01 -0700
> ** Original Message follows...
>
>
> well, slop equals flutter potential. Ask Van's. Probaby within acceptable
> limits but never hurts to ask the source...
>
>
> >From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: flap slop
> >Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 15:29:36 -0400
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Listers,
> > >
> > >I have manual flaps on my plane...a few weeks ago before I took the
> > >wings off for paint I noticed some play in the flaps which amounted
> > >to about 3/8" overall in the neutral position. Most of the play
> > >seems to be coming from a very small amount of slop in the catch
> > >mechanism inside the flap handle. Scott @ Van's said it should be
> > >OK, that the flaps will "ride" to whatever position is neutral for
> > >them. I was thinking when I fly I should note their position and
> > >put in an a piece of angle along the side of the fuse over the flap
> > >to act as a stop, like many others have. Can anyone see having this
> > >much play in the flap mechanism causing any problems for the first
> > >few flights before I put the stop in?
> > >
> > >Bob Japundza
> > >RV-6 N244BJ FINAL assembly!
> > >Inspection 7/24 1:00pm
> > >Lets see, inspection on the 24th, OSH on the 26th, if I fly 8 hours
> > >a day...hmm
> >
> >Bob,
> >
> >Most production small aircraft that I look at have about that much
> >slop in the flaps, and it doesn't seem to cause them any grief. Once
> >you are flying, and there is an airload on them, they will ride up as
> >far as possible, which will take out any slop. You need a small
> >amount of play in the catch mechanism or it would tend to jam up on
> >you anyway. Just based on your description, I'm not convinced you
> >need to do anything at all.
> >
> >Good luck on the first flight.
> >
> >I'm leaving for Argentina in less than an hour, and will be off line
> >for several weeks.
> >
> >--
> >Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting elevators, etc)
> >Ottawa, Canada
> >http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
I'm having trouble determining the interconnects between some of my
avionics. Has anyone else already wired the following set of components? RMI
Microencoder, Garmin GNC 250XL(same as GNC 300XL), Navaid with Compass
Option, and Transponder. All the preceding components have instruction
manuels but they don't always use the same phraseology to describe their
inputs and outputs.
If anyone has any experience interconnecting these components Please
send me an e-mail offlist.
Many Thanks! Esten Spears 80922, Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/13/00 3:26:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bjapundza(at)dowagro.com writes:
<< Can anyone see having this much play in the flap mechanism causing any
problems for the first few flights before I put the stop in? >>
I have electric flaps and was equally concerned about the slop in them. I
went around rattling folks flaps(with their permission) and it seems to be a
common problem. Mine has 3/8 inch . I have seen 200 mph CAS without flutter
which is the max. I can fly with my Sensenich metal prop(2600 RPM limited)
Bernie Kerr, 6A N60WM Flying, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
"Japundza, Bob" wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I have manual flaps on my plane...a few weeks ago before I took the wings off
for paint I noticed some play in the flaps which amounted to about 3/8" overall
in the neutral position. Most of the play seems to be coming from a very small
amount of slop in the catch mechanism inside the flap handle. Scott @ Van's
said it should be OK, that the flaps will "ride" to whatever position is neutral
for them. I was thinking when I fly I should note their position and put
in an a piece of angle along the side of the fuse over the flap to act as a
stop, like many others have. Can anyone see having this much play in the flap
mechanism causing any problems for the first few flights before I put the stop
in?
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ FINAL assembly!
> Inspection 7/24 1:00pm
> Lets see, inspection on the 24th, OSH on the 26th, if I fly 8 hours a day...hmm
Bob, you have described exactly the situation with the manual flaps on
my RV-6. The 3/8" slop presented no problems whatsoever in 150 hrs of
flight.
I just recently converted to electric flaps, and in spite of all my
efforts to eliminate all play in the linkage, there is still a very
small amount. The rod end bearings apparently allow a small amount of
play, and the clearances accumulate enough to be noticeable. Be sure you
have shimmed the flap link bearings at the flap torque rod if necessary
so they can't slide back and forth on the bolt.
Good luck with your upcoming test flights!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 156 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
Subject: | Re: FAR Part 43, Appendix D |
Maybe because annual condition inspections are to encompass everything
within Part 43 Appendix D? I think that's why the guy was asking.
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Here it is!!!! Courtesy of the Bellanca-Champion Club
> >
> >APPENDIX D TO PART 43 - SCOPE AND DETAIL OF ITEMS (AS APPLICABLE TO THE
> >PARTICULAR AIRCRAFT) TO BE INCLUDED IN ANNUAL AND 100-HOUR INSPECTIONS
> >(a) Each person performing an annual or 100-hour inspection shall, before
> >that inspection, remove or open all necessary inspection plates, access
> >doors, fairing, and cowling. He shall thoroughly clean the aircraft and
> >aircraft engine.
>
> Just curious . . . asside from being a reasonable starting point
> for a builder's maintenance checklist, how did FAR 43 (and in particular
> 100 hour inspections) find it's way into a discussion about amateur
> built aircraft?
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | transition training |
I have finished RV-6A N94KB but the insurance company says I must have a CFI
sign off training in type. Mike Seger is not available until mid August.
Does anyone know of a CFI with an RV-6A that can provide some transition
training? I have a couple of hours in the right seat of 6A put not with an
instructor that can sign off.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: DC Powered Vacuum Pump |
>a while back somebody (I believe it was John) suggested a small electrical
>driven compressor as an alternative to a vacuum pump or venturi. He
>especially recommended the UNMP50 from KNF. Their brushless type (for
>permanent operation) costs $ 213.00. The pump will make 2.7 l per min at 4
>Hg. I'm ready to order one from KNF, but I'm somewhat reluctant. Has anybody
>tried such a pump yet?
Is this for normal operations of vacuum instruments? I used
to work for a company that sold STANDBY electrically driven
vacuum pumps . . . they take a LOT of snort . . . like
125 to 300 watts. Got that much extra available full time
from your alternator? . . .
Found this on the internet:
(3) Vacuum loads may be calculated as follows:
(a) Gyroscopic instruments require optimum value of airflow to
produce their rated rotor speed. For instance, a bank and pitch
indicator requires approximately 2.30 cubic feet per minute for its
operation
. . . 2.3 cu feet per minute is about 65 liters per minute
and a resistance or pressure drop of 4.00 inches Hg. Therefore, operating
an instrument requiring 4.00 inches Hg from oneventuri would be marginal.
Similarly, the directional gyro indicator consumes approximately 1.30 cubic
feet per minute and a pressure drop of 4.00 in Hg. . . . It should be noted
that the negative pressure air source must not only deliver the optimum value
of vacuum to the instruments, but must also have sufficient volume capacity
to accommodate the total flow requirements of the various instruments which
it serves.
. . . adding 1.3 cu-ft/min (37 more liters/min) brings the total
up to more than 3.6 cu/ft or 100 liters per minute at 4 in-hg or
better.
Looking at KNF's website, the only pumps capable of this
performance have to plug in the wall. It taks a LOT of
suck to run a vacuum instrument. This may be why those little
engine driven pumps in airplanes are so hard pressed to run
for very long. . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
lucky macy wrote:
>
>
> well, slop equals flutter potential. Ask Van's. Probaby within acceptable
> limits but never hurts to ask the source...
>
Very slim chance of flaps ever fluttering. Some aircraft just
have spring tension to hold flaps in up position.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | air hammer vs rivet gun |
Does anyone know the difference between a air hammer and a rivet gun? I know
the hammers look the same and are a hell of a lot cheaper.
carey mills
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvmils(at)AOL.COM.Thu, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004160863@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
13 Jul 2000 18:01:57.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | air hammer vs rivet gun |
Does anyone know the difference between a air hammer and a rivet gun? I know
the hammers look the same and are a hell of a lot cheaper.
carey mills
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
lucky macy wrote:
>
>
> well, slop equals flutter potential. Ask Van's. Probaby within acceptable
> limits but never hurts to ask the source...
>
Very slim chance of flaps ever fluttering. Some aircraft just
have spring tension to hold flaps in up position.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Dear Gang,
I don't want to start a riot, fight, or war.....BUT I believe the domain
names of
www.RV-4.com and www.rv-4.com are available. I can't believe that one of
you computer literate builders hasn't purchased this site address. I can't
even spell www, so I'm excused.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N8ZW in my near future
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N8ZW in my near future
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-8-8A FUEL TANK TAB |
In a message dated 7/13/00 8:33:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
willig10(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< My question to all you 8
builders is do you guys know what revision or is there
one out there describing this? >>
The slot is on my RV-6A plans and it says its to allow it to shear in case of
accident otherwise the rib could pull loose and spray fuel everywhere. Not
sure about the -8
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing leading edge skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-8-8A FUEL TANK TAB |
Glenn, this was originally in one of the RVator issues. It was done to allow
the wing to depart the airframe in an accident without tearing apart the fuel
tank. The tip bracket only carries shear loads, that is, up and down, not
tension. Andy Johnson, deburring dem fuse parts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: air hammer vs rivet gun |
Buy a 3x, you can use it for everthing. Inever use the 2x since I got the 3x.
It also happens to be a better gun as well. Andy Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | RV-8-8A FUEL TANK TAB |
Issue #1, 1998 showed the revision. I'm not even sure it's an official
revision...maybe just a option. I did it on mine.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> listers my a/c builder serial # is 80917 and I have a
> question regarding the hand made L shaped bracket that
> attaches the wing to the fuselage at the fwd side of
> the wing. The reason I am asking is that I was at
> Northwest regional the other day and two brand new
> older serial # rv-8's had a slot cut to the bolt hole
> diameter all the way through the tab. I have looked at
> my plans and they say nothing about cutting this slot.
> I asked the builders and they said it was on a plans
> revision. However my serial number being a lot higher
> than thiers I would have thought that the revision
> would have been on my plans. My question to all you 8
> builders is do you guys know what revision or is there
> one out there describing this? The builders said it
> was designed in case of an accident that the fuel tank
> would not be ripped open. Help
>
> Glenn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: air hammer vs rivet gun |
My air hammer is about the same size as my rivet gun and has about the
same amount of force output. The big difference (besides quality) is in
the trigger. My air hammer is on or off, nothing else. My rivet gun has
a very nice feathering trigger.
Just for fun I drove some test rivets using the air hammer and they
turned out great. Seemed to take more hits so I would guess that the
rivet is getting close to being overworked when set.
Now with all that said, I would not use an air hammer to build my plane
or anyone elses. Spend the bucks and get a good rivet gun, it is a tool
that you will use a lot.
Gary Zilik
glenn williams wrote:
>
> an air hammer is not a rivet gun it is made to remove
> ball joints etc from cars and the force it gives far
> exceeds the rivet guns force unless you need a 10x
> rivet gun stay away from an air hammer. go buy a 2x or
> a 3x rivet gun
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8-8A FUEL TANK TAB |
Glenn,
Van's has a really cheap kit -- I think it is $3.00 or so, that includes
some washers and platenuts for this option. I think it also includes the
drawing. When I was doing mine, I couldn't find any dimensions on how deep
to cut the slot so I called Van's. I was told to wait until I was
installing the wings, contrary to the instructions that came with the kit.
I cut the slot. I won't know for a long time if I got it right.
Terry Watson
RV-8A wings almost done
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: air hammer vs rivet gun |
In a message dated 7/13/00 7:47:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM writes:
<<
Buy a 3x, you can use it for everthing. Inever use the 2x since I got the
3x.
>>
Me too! I struggled with -4 rivets through everything until halfway through
the fuselage (not a QB) with a so-so 2X, then I bought a good 3X gun and use
it for everything now. What a difference it makes in setting the bigger
rivets!
Harry Crosby
-6 Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: trouble fitting emp fairing |
Rollie,
Send me your phone number, it would take me weeks to type in a reasonable
answer, or call me 360 659 5055.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: trouble fitting emp fairing |
Tony,
If your question was directed at Fairings Etc, it does fit the -6 & -6A .
The cost is $115+ shipping. Mine has larger radiuses, is three part, and
weighs under two pounds.
If it does have problems we solve them or you return it.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: transition training |
In a message dated 7/13/2000 6:04:08 PM Central Daylight Time, Kbeene(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< I have finished RV-6A N94KB but the insurance company says I must have a
CFI
sign off training in type. Mike Seger is not available until mid August.
Does anyone know of a CFI with an RV-6A that can provide some transition
training? I have a couple of hours in the right seat of 6A put not with an
instructor that can sign off.
>>
WHich insurance company is this.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CW9371(at)AOL.COM.Fri, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004166833@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
13 Jul 2000 23:18:05.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: transition training |
In a message dated 7/13/2000 6:04:08 PM Central Daylight Time, Kbeene(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< I have finished RV-6A N94KB but the insurance company says I must have a
CFI
sign off training in type. Mike Seger is not available until mid August.
Does anyone know of a CFI with an RV-6A that can provide some transition
training? I have a couple of hours in the right seat of 6A put not with an
instructor that can sign off.
>>
WHich insurance company is this.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Polenske, Eugene O" <Eugene.Polenske(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Panel drawing |
Does anyone out there have a cadd drawing file of an RV-8 panel? If you do I'd
sure appreciate it if you would send me a copy.
Thanks,
Gene Polenske
Things coming together nicely on the empenage.
Wings ordered.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
Subject: | air hammer vs rivet gun |
>>Does anyone know the difference between a air hammer and a rivet gun? I
know
>>the hammers look the same and are a hell of a lot cheaper.
Eight pounds of bondo on your typical Rv.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jaugilas <jaugilas(at)allways.net> |
Subject: | Re: air hammer vs rivet gun |
How is that gun on those little bitty rivets. (3-/32's).
Is low pressure good enough? and how low?
Bill Jaugilas
HCRV6(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/13/00 7:47:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> <<
> Buy a 3x, you can use it for everthing. Inever use the 2x since I got the
> 3x.
> >>
>
> Me too! I struggled with -4 rivets through everything until halfway through
> the fuselage (not a QB) with a so-so 2X, then I bought a good 3X gun and use
> it for everything now. What a difference it makes in setting the bigger
> rivets!
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6 Finish kit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | carb throttle arm |
All three holes on my Marvel carburetor were sized to fit AN-3 bolts. That
is, the middle one was the same size as the other two.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
The carb had a "home made" U shape bracket attached with 2 an-3 bolts, so
I guess the Warrior got by with friction to hold it to gether. I removed
the bracket cause I don't need it. Is the center hole bigger the standard
or has someone been re engineering it?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: new RV-6A flying |
Ray,
Sounds like a really neat set of systems. You mentioned water.
What kind of engine do you have ?
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
lm4(at)juno.com
sales(at)powersportaviation.com> writes:
Powersport's new RV-6A is flying
Dear RV'ers,
> Total weight is 1096 with oil and water. Also included is
> 2 batteries, 55 amp alt, duel electrical buss, duel ECU's,
> Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: transition training |
Go to the Van's Airforce - World Wide Wing web site at
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm. Doug has a list of CFI's that
will provide training in RV's. You may have to travel to Texas, but at
least it's available to you.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (20.5 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
>
> I have finished RV-6A N94KB but the insurance company says I must have a
CFI
> sign off training in type. Mike Seger is not available until mid August.
> Does anyone know of a CFI with an RV-6A that can provide some transition
> training?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wire routing |
Harry,
If I recall correctly, I ran the wires over to one side while under the
baggage floor so that I could penetrate the rear spar in a spot where it
didn't interfere with the spar reinforcing bars. I then followed one of the
stiffeners all the way to the rear of the airplane.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (20.5 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
>
> I'm wasting a lot of time trying to noodle out just how to run the wiring
for
> the electric flaps and rudder light. The problem I'm worrying about is
that
> if I run the wires down the center tunnel between the seats (RV-6), I'll
have
> to drill fairly large, like 5/16 or 3/8 holes in the bulkheads for the
snap
> bushings. I'm concerned about weakening the structure in places like the
> rear spar carry through because there isn't enough space in those places
to
> get anywhere near normal (3D) edge distance from the cutouts for the
elevator
> push pull tube or from existing rivets. If anyone can figure out what I'm
> trying to say and can offer any suggestions I'll sure be grateful. How
did
> you all do it?
>
> Harry Crosby
> -6 Finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: carb throttle arm |
In a message dated 7/13/00 8:13:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
<< I have 3 holes in the throttle arm for my throttle. The outside two are
3/16. I need the center one which is .240 approx. Is there a bushing I
order from Lyc to press in so the an-3 bolt will work?
The carb had a "home made" U shape bracket attached with 2 an-3 bolts, so
I guess the Warrior got by with friction to hold it together. I removed
the bracket cause I don't need it. Is the center hole bigger the standard
or has someone been re engineering it? >>
Maybe it's a lightening hole.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: air hammer vs rivet gun |
jaugilas wrote:
>
>
> How is that gun on those little bitty rivets. (3-/32's).
>
> Is low pressure good enough? and how low?
The 3X gun is just fine for the 3/32 rivets. I found 35 lbs to be the
correct pressure for most small rivets.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 built entirely with 3X generic rivet gun)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | carb throttle arm |
The bushing you are refering to is for the mixture arm I think. I found a
babbit/bronze bushing at the hobbie store model airplane section that fit the ID
of the carb-arm-hole. I made a wood clamp to hold the little bushing to drill
the hole for the AN-3 bolt.
SSoule(at)pfclaw.com on 07/14/2000 08:05:45 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: carb throttle arm
All three holes on my Marvel carburetor were sized to fit AN-3 bolts. That
is, the middle one was the same size as the other two.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
The carb had a "home made" U shape bracket attached with 2 an-3 bolts, so
I guess the Warrior got by with friction to hold it to gether. I removed
the bracket cause I don't need it. Is the center hole bigger the standard
or has someone been re engineering it?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
> > fire the inspector and hire yourself a d.a.r
The repairman cert. has to come from the FAA.
I agree with Bob N. -- don't try to argue with a stubborn FSDO employee.
Talk to EAA and they should be able to set you on the right path.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Gap Fairing |
> RE: RV-6 wing gap fairing.
>
> I am on drawing 46 trying to find ANY specific information regarding the
> placement and mounting of the Wing Gap Fairing.
I took some pictures and put them on my web site at
http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/index.html. Feel free to have a look.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WAYNE BONESTEEL <wayneb(at)oakweb.com> |
Subject: | Where's the metal |
I have 9.4 hours on my RV-4 and going to do inspection and oil change.
I would like to know where the particulates such as metal accumulate
in the oil filter, any info would be appreciated.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
Read back through the messages. When you hassled about the need for
carburetor heat, you probably messed up the relationship. Some times it is
better to say, Yes, I'll make your change or addition rather than arguing
about it. Then when you need something, it might be easier to get.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Repairman Cert - Help!
>
> > > fire the inspector and hire yourself a d.a.r
>
> The repairman cert. has to come from the FAA.
>
> I agree with Bob N. -- don't try to argue with a stubborn FSDO employee.
> Talk to EAA and they should be able to set you on the right path.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Subject: | Re: carb throttle arm |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> The bushing you are refering to is for the mixture arm I think. I found a
> babbit/bronze bushing at the hobbie store model airplane section that fit the
ID
> of the carb-arm-hole. I made a wood clamp to hold the little bushing to drill
> the hole for the AN-3 bolt.
>
I bought flanged bronze bushings from Boston, a well known bearing distributor
in
industry in the USA, and put them in all the pedal joints and other places. The
flanges fit between the parts to act as a spacer like a washer. They are available
very reasonable and available in 3/16" ID by 1/4" OD.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Hi listers,
I'm looking for a hand squeezer. Would prefer Avery's (and am open to
input if you have strong feelings about another brand) I've heard good
things about the Avery squeezer, and am considering getting a pneumatic
squeezer. I'm going to order a hand squeezer in a couple of days, as I
need that, a rivet fan and some other misc. stuff. I thought I ask here
first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some other tools they
would like to sell.
Thanks,
Dave Burton
RV6A (wings)
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Where's the metal-oil filter |
You got to cut your filter can to remove the pleated material and cut the
material to un-fold the pleated material-- looking into the folds for bits of
metal or carbon. Carbon specs look like old coffee grinds. Metal flakes &
slivers are to be eyed closely. A magnet will pickup ferrus metal and a
mini-torch will ignite magnesium. Aluimun will react with a chemical that I
forget....at any rate thats how to determin what is sheding metal. A good
mechanic will ID the junk in the filter and will have a good idea from whence it
came (piston plug, ring(s), case fretting, valve seat, vave guide.....most
engine innerds are made up of specific metals and a good mechinal can narrow
things down pretty quickly. A filter screen mostly picks up mostly oil sludge
and lead slurry (gray stuff) and large carbon pieces. Mostly follow the above
procedure for a screen also. I have found a good qualitity filter cutter, a
seratted knife to cut the pleated cardboard and a few dental picks are what I
need. A large cookie sheet and newspaper also help. Its messy but worth it.
wayneb(at)oakweb.com on 07/14/2000 12:55:54 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Where's the metal
I have 9.4 hours on my RV-4 and going to do inspection and oil change.
I would like to know where the particulates such as metal accumulate
in the oil filter, any info would be appreciated.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Folks,
I recently read either a post (but can't find in archives) or a web
site
(stumbled onto, no doubt, and can't find again) where a fellow had an
Aero Sport engine which Bart had cammed up to 195HP.
I'm doing the engine search thing now, and sure would like to get in
touch with this person.
Anyone? Thanks.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
> I don't want to start a riot, fight, or war.....BUT I believe the domain
> names of
> www.RV-4.com and www.rv-4.com are available. I can't believe that one of
> you computer literate builders hasn't purchased this site address. I can't
> even spell www, so I'm excused.
I registered, and am using for my own site, www.rv-8.com since I'm building
an -8. A friend of mine got www.rv6.com, www.rv-6a.com, and www.rv-9a.com
since he plans on building one of the two some day. Indeed it is an
oversight on Van's part not to tie up these domains, but then Van has
never focused on marketing issues at all -- engineers tend not to.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (probably forever)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
David & Betty Burton wrote:
... I thought I ask here first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some
other tools they would like to sell.
I noticed that Bill Pagan is parting with his tools. This might be a real help
to someone starting out. So, if you're looking for tools, check out Bill's site
at:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
I don't know what tools he has left, but it might be worth contacting him if
you're in the market.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
If you really want a pneumatic unit then get a hand squeezer that has
interchangable yokes with your pneumatic unit so you can savo on monies. The
fan spacer thingie you mention is pretty trick but I have used a fabric
seamstress tape measure with good results, It does many things the fan thingie
dosen't do.
dburton(at)foxinternet.net on 07/14/2000 02:01:59 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: tools
Hi listers,
I'm looking for a hand squeezer. Would prefer Avery's (and am open to
input if you have strong feelings about another brand) I've heard good
things about the Avery squeezer, and am considering getting a pneumatic
squeezer. I'm going to order a hand squeezer in a couple of days, as I
need that, a rivet fan and some other misc. stuff. I thought I ask here
first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some other tools they
would like to sell.
Thanks,
Dave Burton
RV6A (wings)
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barrys <barrys(at)viconet.com> |
We attended the Sportair class in Ga, last weekend. They said and I
agree, bolt heads up, or front. It makes sense. If the nut comes loose
and it is on top, the bolt falls out.
Accelleration would do the same to a bolt that had the nut pointinf
forward and it came off.
Barry
666bp reserved unpacking tail to rv9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
In my world (far far from normal reality) I do not own a hand sqeezer and
can not see any use for one. The pneumatic allows me to go down a spar, rib
or whatever either squeezing or dimpling so fast you would be amazed.
Watching the Orndorff videos and how slow the same process goes with the
hand sqeezer I really can't say enough how happy I am with the pneumatic.
Clamp it in a vice and run the stiffeners through it in about 10 seconds for
dimples. I love this thing. I do have and extra 2.5 inch yoke if anyone
wants it for half price.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Betty Burton" <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: tools
>
> Hi listers,
>
> I'm looking for a hand squeezer. Would prefer Avery's (and am open to
> input if you have strong feelings about another brand) I've heard good
> things about the Avery squeezer, and am considering getting a pneumatic
> squeezer. I'm going to order a hand squeezer in a couple of days, as I
> need that, a rivet fan and some other misc. stuff. I thought I ask here
> first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some other tools they
> would like to sell.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Burton
> RV6A (wings)
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
This is the rule I go with as it makes most sense. If the bolts go in
sideways, then I place the nut where it is most easily accessed for
inspection.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: barrys [mailto:barrys(at)viconet.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 12:57 PM
To: RV-List Digest Server
Subject: RV-List: bolts position
We attended the Sportair class in Ga, last weekend. They
said and I
agree, bolt heads up, or front. It makes sense. If the nut
comes loose
and it is on top, the bolt falls out.
Accelleration would do the same to a bolt that had the nut
pointinf
forward and it came off.
Barry
666bp reserved unpacking tail to rv9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)boernenet.com> |
Subject: | Chevy-Powered RV6 for Sale |
Posting for my neighbor...
RV6 completed in 1997 powered by 4.3L Chevrolet V6 with Airpower 1.43:1
belt-reduction drive.
150 hours on AC and engine. Three-bladed Warp Drive ground-adjustable
prop. VFR panel and Orndorff interior. Always hangared in Texas Hill
Country.
This bird will do an honest 200MPH and has a nice blue metallic paint
job with silver and gold trim.
Owner/builder is selling to raise cash to build a 160HP RV9.
$45,000
contact: Louis Hastings 830/537-4751
wwwbetty@gvtc Boerne, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I bought a pneumatic squeezer after I started my fuselage. Big mistake. I
should have bought it from the get-go. However, I wouldn't trade my hand
squeezers in. I've found that there are times when a hand squeezer will fit
into some pretty tight spots that a pneumatic won't.
Although, a better builder than I would build the airplane such that this
situation never occurred.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)mindspring.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:16 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; dburton(at)foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: tools
In my world (far far from normal reality) I do not own a
hand sqeezer and
can not see any use for one. The pneumatic allows me to go
down a spar, rib
or whatever either squeezing or dimpling so fast you would
be amazed.
Watching the Orndorff videos and how slow the same process
goes with the
hand sqeezer I really can't say enough how happy I am with
the pneumatic.
Clamp it in a vice and run the stiffeners through it in
about 10 seconds for
dimples. I love this thing. I do have and extra 2.5 inch
yoke if anyone
wants it for half price.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Betty Burton" <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
To:
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: tools
>
> Hi listers,
>
> I'm looking for a hand squeezer. Would prefer Avery's
(and am open to
> input if you have strong feelings about another brand)
I've heard good
> things about the Avery squeezer, and am considering
getting a pneumatic
> squeezer. I'm going to order a hand squeezer in a couple
of days, as I
> need that, a rivet fan and some other misc. stuff. I
thought I ask here
> first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some
other tools they
> would like to sell.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Burton
> RV6A (wings)
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Where's the metal |
WAYNE BONESTEEL wrote:
>
> I have 9.4 hours on my RV-4 and going to do inspection and oil change.
> I would like to know where the particulates such as metal accumulate
> in the oil filter, any info would be appreciated.
>
> Wayne
>
You should cut and unfurl the filter so as to view the outside. I use a
magnifying glass and a strong light.
DLW
name="deniswalsh.vcf"
filename="deniswalsh.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Walsh;Denis
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net
fn:Denis Walsh
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ray sheffield" <rv6a(at)prodigy.net> |
I built my rv-6a with an avery squeezer and wouldnot trade it for any
others that I have tried. I sold my air squeezer no real reason for one.
ray
rv6a 112rs waiting for registration to clear
----- Original Message -----
From: David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: tools
>
> Hi listers,
>
> I'm looking for a hand squeezer. Would prefer Avery's (and am open to
> input if you have strong feelings about another brand) I've heard good
> things about the Avery squeezer, and am considering getting a pneumatic
> squeezer. I'm going to order a hand squeezer in a couple of days, as I
> need that, a rivet fan and some other misc. stuff. I thought I ask here
> first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some other tools they
> would like to sell.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Burton
> RV6A (wings)
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Folks,
I recently read either a post (but can't find in archives) or a web
site
(stumbled onto, no doubt, and can't find again) where a fellow had an
Aero Sport engine which Bart had cammed up to 195HP.
I'm doing the engine search thing now, and sure would like to get in
touch with this person.
Anyone? Thanks.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
> I don't want to start a riot, fight, or war.....BUT I believe the domain
> names of
> www.RV-4.com and www.rv-4.com are available. I can't believe that one of
> you computer literate builders hasn't purchased this site address. I can't
> even spell www, so I'm excused.
I registered, and am using for my own site, www.rv-8.com since I'm building
an -8. A friend of mine got www.rv6.com, www.rv-6a.com, and www.rv-9a.com
since he plans on building one of the two some day. Indeed it is an
oversight on Van's part not to tie up these domains, but then Van has
never focused on marketing issues at all -- engineers tend not to.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (probably forever)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <n8rv(at)gte.net> |
David & Betty Burton wrote:
... I thought I ask here first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some
other tools they would like to sell.
I noticed that Bill Pagan is parting with his tools. This might be a real help
to someone starting out. So, if you're looking for tools, check out Bill's site
at:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
I don't know what tools he has left, but it might be worth contacting him if
you're in the market.
--Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pcondon(at)csc.com.Fri, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004180184@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Fri,
14 Jul 2000 12:35:32.-0700(at)matronics.com
If you really want a pneumatic unit then get a hand squeezer that has
interchangable yokes with your pneumatic unit so you can savo on monies. The
fan spacer thingie you mention is pretty trick but I have used a fabric
seamstress tape measure with good results, It does many things the fan thingie
dosen't do.
dburton(at)foxinternet.net on 07/14/2000 02:01:59 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: tools
Hi listers,
I'm looking for a hand squeezer. Would prefer Avery's (and am open to
input if you have strong feelings about another brand) I've heard good
things about the Avery squeezer, and am considering getting a pneumatic
squeezer. I'm going to order a hand squeezer in a couple of days, as I
need that, a rivet fan and some other misc. stuff. I thought I ask here
first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some other tools they
would like to sell.
Thanks,
Dave Burton
RV6A (wings)
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | barrys <barrys(at)viconet.com> |
We attended the Sportair class in Ga, last weekend. They said and I
agree, bolt heads up, or front. It makes sense. If the nut comes loose
and it is on top, the bolt falls out.
Accelleration would do the same to a bolt that had the nut pointinf
forward and it came off.
Barry
666bp reserved unpacking tail to rv9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
In my world (far far from normal reality) I do not own a hand sqeezer and
can not see any use for one. The pneumatic allows me to go down a spar, rib
or whatever either squeezing or dimpling so fast you would be amazed.
Watching the Orndorff videos and how slow the same process goes with the
hand sqeezer I really can't say enough how happy I am with the pneumatic.
Clamp it in a vice and run the stiffeners through it in about 10 seconds for
dimples. I love this thing. I do have and extra 2.5 inch yoke if anyone
wants it for half price.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Betty Burton" <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: tools
>
> Hi listers,
>
> I'm looking for a hand squeezer. Would prefer Avery's (and am open to
> input if you have strong feelings about another brand) I've heard good
> things about the Avery squeezer, and am considering getting a pneumatic
> squeezer. I'm going to order a hand squeezer in a couple of days, as I
> need that, a rivet fan and some other misc. stuff. I thought I ask here
> first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some other tools they
> would like to sell.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Burton
> RV6A (wings)
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
This is the rule I go with as it makes most sense. If the bolts go in
sideways, then I place the nut where it is most easily accessed for
inspection.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: barrys [mailto:barrys(at)viconet.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 12:57 PM
To: RV-List Digest Server
Subject: RV-List: bolts position
We attended the Sportair class in Ga, last weekend. They
said and I
agree, bolt heads up, or front. It makes sense. If the nut
comes loose
and it is on top, the bolt falls out.
Accelleration would do the same to a bolt that had the nut
pointinf
forward and it came off.
Barry
666bp reserved unpacking tail to rv9a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)boernenet.com> |
Subject: | Chevy-Powered RV6 for Sale |
Posting for my neighbor...
RV6 completed in 1997 powered by 4.3L Chevrolet V6 with Airpower 1.43:1
belt-reduction drive.
150 hours on AC and engine. Three-bladed Warp Drive ground-adjustable
prop. VFR panel and Orndorff interior. Always hangared in Texas Hill
Country.
This bird will do an honest 200MPH and has a nice blue metallic paint
job with silver and gold trim.
Owner/builder is selling to raise cash to build a 160HP RV9.
$45,000
contact: Louis Hastings 830/537-4751
wwwbetty@gvtc Boerne, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
I bought a pneumatic squeezer after I started my fuselage. Big mistake. I
should have bought it from the get-go. However, I wouldn't trade my hand
squeezers in. I've found that there are times when a hand squeezer will fit
into some pretty tight spots that a pneumatic won't.
Although, a better builder than I would build the airplane such that this
situation never occurred.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)mindspring.com]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:16 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; dburton(at)foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: tools
In my world (far far from normal reality) I do not own a
hand sqeezer and
can not see any use for one. The pneumatic allows me to go
down a spar, rib
or whatever either squeezing or dimpling so fast you would
be amazed.
Watching the Orndorff videos and how slow the same process
goes with the
hand sqeezer I really can't say enough how happy I am with
the pneumatic.
Clamp it in a vice and run the stiffeners through it in
about 10 seconds for
dimples. I love this thing. I do have and extra 2.5 inch
yoke if anyone
wants it for half price.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Betty Burton" <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
To:
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: tools
>
> Hi listers,
>
> I'm looking for a hand squeezer. Would prefer Avery's
(and am open to
> input if you have strong feelings about another brand)
I've heard good
> things about the Avery squeezer, and am considering
getting a pneumatic
> squeezer. I'm going to order a hand squeezer in a couple
of days, as I
> need that, a rivet fan and some other misc. stuff. I
thought I ask here
> first to see if anyone has an extra one, or maybe some
other tools they
> would like to sell.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Burton
> RV6A (wings)
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Repairman Cert - Help! |
However, I think I recall some other post that say you have to do 51% of the
activities that it takes to build a plane, not have done 51% of the building
time. I recall hearing on this list about a certain part on the QB that
comes unformed because you need to do that forming to meet the 51% rule.
(someone even commented they messed up the part and had to reorder it and
they got the part already formed - imagine that). I believe, that's how
groups can build a plane, like the EAA Young Eagles or H.S. shop classes
(they still have these?), and then have someone apply and receive the
repairman's certificate, like the owner or financier of the project. So if
you can show you did 51% of the activities that are required, there is a
list somewhere, to build a plane, you should be good to go. FWIW.
Marty in Brentwood
----- Original Message -----
SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;Thu" <B0004150828@mail-2.lbay.net>; <13 Jul 2000
11:02:48.-0700(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 1:15 PM
Subject: re: RV-List: Repairman Cert - Help!
>
> Finn,
> It's difficult to deal with a stubborn inspector. Did you ask him what
you would need to do
> to convince him you had done 51%?
>
> My approach would be to compute your hours as compared to the "average"
builder.
> Hopefully you have documented your hours. If so, find out the "average"
number of hours it
> takes to build your model of RV (ask Van's) and do the arithmetic --- I'll
bet you've done
> much more than 51% of most home builders (given all those things you
mentioned).
>
> Good luck!
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, close to finished
>
>
> >
> >
> > I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I qualify
> > for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
> > started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
> > skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
> > and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
> > well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
> > control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
> > spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
> > bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
> > spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
> > putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
> >
> > To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
> > current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man about
> > that?
> >
> > He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> > certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> > quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Finn
> >
> >
> > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
> >
> >
> > _-
> ===========================================================
> > _-
> ===========================================================
> > _-
> ===========================================================
> > _-
> ===========================================================
> >
> >
>
>
> >** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Repairmans certificate |
From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Finn,
>
> I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I
qualify
> for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
> started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
> skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
> and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
> well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
> control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
> spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
> bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
> spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
> putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
>
> To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
> current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man
about
> that?
>
> He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Finn
>
>Finn,
>It's difficult to deal with a stubborn inspector. Did you ask him what
you >would need to do
>to convince him you had done 51%?
>My approach would be to compute your hours as compared to the >"average"
builder.
>Hopefully you have documented your hours. If so, find out the
>"average" number of hours it
>takes to build your model of RV (ask Van's) and do the arithmetic ---
I'll >bet you've done
>much more than 51% of most home builders (given all those things you
>mentioned).
The number of hours a builder spends to complete a project has nothing to
do with whether it complies with the major majority rule (commonly
referred to as the 51% rule).
Any project is judged by use of an FAA form 8000-38 (Fabrication Assembly
Operation Checklist). A copy is provided in the front section of more
recent construction manuals. This is the form that the FAA uses to
determine whether a project will meet the requirements of the "51%"
rule, and it is what was used to determine if a kit (quick build or
otherwise) will be listed on the FAA's approved kit list.
Example... Once a builder has constructed a wing rib, the FAA considers
him to have received the education benefit with that one rib. He could
purchase all the rest prefabricated and not be penalized. It is amazing
that they have chosen to treat it that way, but fortunate for us that the
do.
This is how a kit like the Quick Build kit can be sold and still comply.
It has absolutely nothing to do with the total # of hours required to
build.
Every one should pass the word around about this, because it is a very
common misunderstanding.
It is a list of about 130 different tasks that the FAA has broken an
aircraft construction project down into.
Their are two columns for check marks, work that the kit Mfr. did, and
work that the builder did.
After marking all of the columns appropriately (some will have checks in
both boxes if both builder and Mfr. did some of that work), you add up
the checks in each column.
If the # for the "builder did" column is higher than the "Mfr did"
column, then the project complies.
By FAR 21, any builder that builds an aircraft that is eligible for an
amateur built airworthiness cert., is then eligible to apply for and
receive a repairmans cert. for that specific aircraft.
Under the letter of the law, as long as all of the builders (assuming
there have been more than one) have completed construction for their own
"education and recreation" (meaning no unapproved hired help was
attained) and you can prove it (previous builders log, photo's, etc.)
then with the amount of work you have completed, you are entitled to a
repairmans cert., even though you are not the only one who has done
construction work.
If it comes down to it... get a copy of form 8000-38 and ask him to do an
evaluation with it. Even with the work already done when you started, it
sounds like you would easily comply.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Beam me up Scotty |
Ok, It appears that MR. Scott R McDaniels is once again somewhat monitoring
this list and I for one feel MUCH better with someone firmly 'in the know'
hanging around. :-) Wooohhooooo
Bill
-4 plugging along
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Polenske, Eugene O" <Eugene.Polenske(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
Subject: | Re: Repairmans certificate |
It sure is nice to have you around Scott. You possess a wealth of information
and common sense. Thanks for monitoring us, and answering the tuff questions.
> ----------
> From: Scott R McDaniels[SMTP:smcdaniels(at)juno.com]
> Reply To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 6:36 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Repairmans certificate
>
>
> Finn,
> >
> > I've just been told by the FAA inspector that he doesn't think I
> qualify
> > for a repairman cert, as I didn't build the whole airplane. It was
> > started by someone else back in '77. When I got it the wings were
> > skinned, the fuselage had been jigged, firewall and bulkheads installed
> > and side skins mostly riveted. The rear long bottom skin was there as
> > well, but I've since replaced that. I built the emphenage and all
> > control surfaces (the flaps and right elevator twice). I did the wing
> > spar modification which included peeling back (almost removing) the
> > bottom inner rear skins. I fabricated and welded up the missing tail
> > spring mount, modified the engine mount and all the work involved in
> > putting a Mazda 13B rotary engine in it.
> >
> > To me it looks like I've done a lot more work on the airframe that a
> > current quick builder ever does, but how do I convince the FAA man
> about
> > that?
> >
> > He also seems to think that the 51% rule only has to do with the
> > certification of the aircraft as home built and almost said that a
> > quickbuilder would not qualify for a repairman cert.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Finn
> >
> >Finn,
> >It's difficult to deal with a stubborn inspector. Did you ask him what
> you >would need to do
> >to convince him you had done 51%?
>
> >My approach would be to compute your hours as compared to the >"average"
> builder.
> >Hopefully you have documented your hours. If so, find out the
> >"average" number of hours it
> >takes to build your model of RV (ask Van's) and do the arithmetic ---
> I'll >bet you've done
> >much more than 51% of most home builders (given all those things you
> >mentioned).
>
> The number of hours a builder spends to complete a project has nothing to
> do with whether it complies with the major majority rule (commonly
> referred to as the 51% rule).
> Any project is judged by use of an FAA form 8000-38 (Fabrication Assembly
> Operation Checklist). A copy is provided in the front section of more
> recent construction manuals. This is the form that the FAA uses to
> determine whether a project will meet the requirements of the "51%"
> rule, and it is what was used to determine if a kit (quick build or
> otherwise) will be listed on the FAA's approved kit list.
>
> Example... Once a builder has constructed a wing rib, the FAA considers
> him to have received the education benefit with that one rib. He could
> purchase all the rest prefabricated and not be penalized. It is amazing
> that they have chosen to treat it that way, but fortunate for us that the
> do.
> This is how a kit like the Quick Build kit can be sold and still comply.
> It has absolutely nothing to do with the total # of hours required to
> build.
>
> Every one should pass the word around about this, because it is a very
> common misunderstanding.
>
> It is a list of about 130 different tasks that the FAA has broken an
> aircraft construction project down into.
> Their are two columns for check marks, work that the kit Mfr. did, and
> work that the builder did.
> After marking all of the columns appropriately (some will have checks in
> both boxes if both builder and Mfr. did some of that work), you add up
> the checks in each column.
>
> If the # for the "builder did" column is higher than the "Mfr did"
> column, then the project complies.
>
> By FAR 21, any builder that builds an aircraft that is eligible for an>
> amateur built airworthiness cert., is then eligible to apply for and
> receive a repairmans cert. for that specific aircraft.
>
> Under the letter of the law, as long as all of the builders (assuming
> there have been more than one) have completed construction for their own
> "education and recreation" (meaning no unapproved hired help was
> attained) and you can prove it (previous builders log, photo's, etc.)
> then with the amount of work you have completed, you are entitled to a
> repairmans cert., even though you are not the only one who has done
> construction work.
>
> If it comes down to it... get a copy of form 8000-38 and ask him to do an
> evaluation with it. Even with the work already done when you started, it
> sounds like you would easily comply.
>
>
> Scott McDaniels
> North Plains, OR
> These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: transition training |
Thanks to everyone who sent a response about transition training.
The two companies that required CFI dual and written approval was AVEMCO and
Nation Air (Vangard). Nation Air seemed to think Van had long list of
available contacts -- Van's response was that they only knew of Mike. Mike
leaves Sunday to provide some training prior to Oshkosh and will be in the
RV-6. He is scheduled after Oshkosh until the third week of August.
I had checked the vansairforce web site and did not find CFIs with RV-6As. I
contacted the EAA to see who they had issued the exemptions required for CFIs
to give training in experimentals and got the same list.
Ken
N94KB
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Converting 150 hp O-320 to 160 hp |
In a message dated 7/11/00 9:07:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
douggray(at)ihug.com.au writes:
>
> This front bearing issue is important. I'm not sure of the detail
> however one conversion done by a very reputable engine shop in this part
> of the world has a cracked crankcase following the conversion. (after
> several hundred hours only)
>
> The conversion included a modification to the case (machining) to fit
> the larger front bearing. The crack was most likely coincedental to the
> conversion but get some advice before proceeding.
RAM holds the STC (#SE3692SW) for converting the O-320-E2D to 160 HP. This
STC does not call for any modification to the front main bearing. Is there
an STC that requires machining the case?
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Beam me up Scotty |
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> Ok, It appears that MR. Scott R McDaniels is once again somewhat monitoring
> this list and I for one feel MUCH better with someone firmly 'in the know'
> hanging around. :-) Wooohhooooo
>
> Bill
> -4 plugging along
>
> > Scott McDaniels
> > North Plains, OR
> > These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
> > reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
> >
>
So what are you saying that the rest of us are know nothings? ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Beam me up Scotty |
> So what are you saying that the rest of us are know nothings? ;-)
Oh man....that really came out wrong. I meant...er...what I was trying to
say was....um, well damn it's hard to talk with my foot in my mouth. :-)
How about this - Scott.....it sure is nice to see you adding your
wisdom to that of the other genius' in the group.
whew..think I might have pulled that one out of the fire. ;-) Great
weekend all.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV Badges for Oshkosh Update Please Read |
Listers
I think I have completed all the badges that I received mailers for I have
four that I still need some info on so if anyone knows these people tell them
to contact me via e-mail.
Gary E. Graham
Glen Gordon & wife
Carl J. Franz
Gene Larson
If i have missed someone PLEASE be patient I have been overwelmed with these
things. I hope everyone is happy with the results and hope to see them all at
Oshkosh.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM |
Cecil
I'm sorry about the delay getting back to you but have been busy trying to
straighten out what is left of the badges for Oshkosh. Yours went out in the
mail today you should have them in a few days, please let me know when you
receive them. I would like to get two seats for the Oshkosh dinner but I
think it's to late to send you the money, I'm good for it if you do not mind
I will pay you when I get there, if thats a problem I understand but would
love to attend.
Thanks
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: transition training |
Kbeene(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Thanks to everyone who sent a response about transition training.
>
> The two companies that required CFI dual and written approval was AVEMCO and
> Nation Air (Vangard). Nation Air seemed to think Van had long list of
> available contacts -- Van's response was that they only knew of Mike. Mike
> leaves Sunday to provide some training prior to Oshkosh and will be in the
> RV-6. He is scheduled after Oshkosh until the third week of August.
>
> I had checked the vansairforce web site and did not find CFIs with RV-6As. I
> contacted the EAA to see who they had issued the exemptions required for CFIs
> to give training in experimentals and got the same list.
>
> Ken
> N94KB
>
Where do you live Ken and does it have to be the 6A I have done
quite a bit of transitional training in my RV-6 and would be glad
to help if you are near Oregon and can the RV-6 would count.
I assure you that if you can fly the -6 the 6A is a walk
in the park.
Jerry Springer
CFI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
I just ordered a 6A quick-build.Since I won't be doing near the amount of
riviting as a kit started from scratch would you still recommend neumatic
squeezer.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
In a message dated 7/15/2000 2:13:28 AM Central Daylight Time,
KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM writes:
<<
I just ordered a 6A quick-build.Since I won't be doing near the amount of
riviting as a kit started from scratch would you still recommend neumatic
squeezer.
>>
its a nice thing to have it you have the extra 600 plus dollars. If you are
going to get one get a avery hand squezer so the jaws are interchangable.
For me my budget said NO to that tool. I had other tools that I wanted more.
chris wilcox
f1 rocket kit 000
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Crak in rudder TE. How to fix? |
I accidentally slipped a bit with the dimple arbour while dimpling the very
trailing edge hole of the rudder. I was able to fix it up pretty good and it
doesn't look too bad, but there is a small crack there.
Is there any way of being proactive and fix this now, or do I just wait
until it develops to a larger crack and then drill a hole on the other end?
I have even contemplated buying a new rudder skin.
You can see a picture of the offending spot by clicking the link below.
http://www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/oops.jpg
Are
RV-8 C-GQRV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
--- KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I just ordered a 6A quick-build.Since I won't be
> doing near the amount of
> riviting as a kit started from scratch would you
> still recommend neumatic
> squeezer.
A pneumatic squeezer enables even a novice to produce
professional looking rivets in a second. It's also
very useful for dimpling. You will find yourself
going to it whenever possible. I would recommend the
Avery Squeezer with 4" jaws. A "MUST HAVE" in my
humble book.
RE Miller
RV-8 Finishing Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Electric Horizon Wanted |
My search for a 12V electric horizon has not been
fruitful thus far. If anyone knows of a good lead or
is using one as a paperweight please write. Thanks
RE Miller
RV-8
Finishing Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Crak in rudder TE. How to fix? |
Here is a fix that I could live with if it were me. I would go ahead and
use about a 1/32" bit and drill a stop hole. Next, drill another rivet hole
about 5/16" away from the offending rivet hole so another rivet could be
added for additional strength in that area. When the skin is riveted, put
some rtv or maybe even a little proseal between the cracked dimple and
stiffner to subdue the vibration in that area. I think it would be just
fine, and after painting, wouldn't be noticeable.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 2:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Crak in rudder TE. How to fix?
>
> I accidentally slipped a bit with the dimple arbour while dimpling the
very
> trailing edge hole of the rudder. I was able to fix it up pretty good and
it
> doesn't look too bad, but there is a small crack there.
>
> Is there any way of being proactive and fix this now, or do I just wait
> until it develops to a larger crack and then drill a hole on the other
end?
> I have even contemplated buying a new rudder skin.
>
> You can see a picture of the offending spot by clicking the link below.
>
> http://www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/oops.jpg
>
> Are
> RV-8 C-GQRV (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | User fees for email |
Bill Dunbar ,
Cliff Fiscus ,
David Glick ,
Russell Hajek ,
Gary Hummel , John Igoe ,
Bill Lloyd ,
Jamie Perry ,
"INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com" ,
"=?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCOS1FZzdQOlFCZzNYGyhK?="
Getlemen,
I normally don't forward much in the way of unsolicited email I receive since
there is a lot of electronic "junk mail" floating around out there. The
following is a exception, in my opinion. I think this may be of interest
to all of you who use this email stuff regularly.
Thanks for your understanding.
Tim
RE: User fees for email
Federal Bill 602P proposes 5-cents per
E-mail Sent. It figures! No more free E-mail! We knew this was coming!!
Bill 602P will permit the Federal Government to charge a 5-cent charge
on every delivered E-mail. Please read the following carefully if you
intend to stay online, and continue using E-mail. The last few months have
revealed an alarming trend in the Government of the United States attempting
to quietly push through legislation that will affect our use of the Internet.
Under
proposed legislation, the US Postal Service will be attempting to bill
E-mail users out of "alternative postage fees". Bill 602P will permit the
Federal Government to charge a 5-cent surcharge on every E-Mail delivered
by billing Internet Service Providers at source. The consumer
would then be billed in turn by the ISP. Washington DC lawyer
Richard Stepp is working without pay to prevent this legislation from
becoming law. The US Postal Service is claiming that lost revenue, due to the
proliferation of E-mail, is costing nearly $230,000,000
in revenue per year. You may have noticed their recent ad campaign:
"There is nothing like a letter." Since the average person received about 10
pieces of E-mail per day in 1998, the cost of the typical individual
would be an additional 50 cents a day -- or over $180 per year -- above and
beyond their regular Internet costs. Note that this would be money paid
directly to the US Postal Service for a service they do not even provide.
The whole point of the Internet is democracy and noninterference.
You are already paying an exorbitant price for snail mail because
of bureaucratic inefficiency. It currently takes up to 6 days for a letter
to be delivered from coast to coast. If the US Postal Service is
allowed to tinker with E-mail, it will mark the end of the "free"
Internet in the United States. Our congressional representative,
Tony Schnell (R) has even suggested a "$20-$40 per month
surcharge on all Internet service" above and beyond the governments
proposed E-mail charges. Note that most of the major newspapers
have ignored the story -- the only exception being the Washingtonian
- which called the idea of E-mail surcharge "a useful concept who's
time has come." (March 6th, 1999 Editorial).
Do not sit by and watch your freedom erode away! Send this to E-mail
to EVERYONE on your list, and tell all your friends and relatives to write
their congressional representative and say "NO" to Bill 602P. It will
only take a few moments of your time and could very well be instrumental in
killing a bill we do not want.
----------------------- Internet Header --------------------------------
(Vircom SMTPRS 4.2.181) with SMTP id ;
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 07:00:15 -0400
Bcrogan01(at)sceinet.com, Tcrogan3(at)aol.com, jeffed(at)fyi.net,
jefflee(at)lm.com, airsick1(at)aol.com, skids(at)forcomm.net, R14(at)stargate.net,
tsdam(at)datawise.net, JustinGalmish(at)hotmail.com, cwh(at)hvsu.com,
RichardMe(at)worldnet.att.net,
darden3(at)mindspring.com, c185girl(at)aol.com, TomHorne(at)peoplepc.com,
From: Dan Baun <baun(at)cboss.com>
Subject: User fees for email
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric Horizon Wanted |
I know your frustration! There is a gentleman from Canada who sells used
electric AH's and DG's on ebay. Several guys on the list have been
fortunate enough to be high bidders and get the gyros. But lately, bidders
have been bidding the heck out of them and the gyros are demanding quite
high prices. The last AH sold for over $1200 for a 6 year old unit! These
were going for $800 to $950 on past auctions. I can get a sparkling new RC
Allen for around $1600 give or take a few bucks.
There was a thread on some Chinese units for around a $1000 from ACS( I
think). You can search archives for info on these.
I'm going all electric with aux alternator and I think I will swallow hard
and order a new RC Allen and leave the DG cutout covered until my throat
quits hurting and then swallow hard again for a new DG!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 5:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Electric Horizon Wanted
>
> My search for a 12V electric horizon has not been
> fruitful thus far. If anyone knows of a good lead or
> is using one as a paperweight please write. Thanks
>
> RE Miller
> RV-8
> Finishing Fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Crak in rudder TE. How to fix? |
In a place like he rudder, where there is going to be a ot of stress, the only
way to get rid of that crack is either to drill it out, and use a bigger rivet,
or replace the skin.....what does AC 43-13 say about that?....jolly in aurora
or. trying to find a RV to fit my budget
Are Barstad wrote:
>
> I accidentally slipped a bit with the dimple arbour while dimpling the very
> trailing edge hole of the rudder. I was able to fix it up pretty good and it
> doesn't look too bad, but there is a small crack there.
>
> Is there any way of being proactive and fix this now, or do I just wait
> until it develops to a larger crack and then drill a hole on the other end?
> I have even contemplated buying a new rudder skin.
>
> You can see a picture of the offending spot by clicking the link below.
>
> http://www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/oops.jpg
>
> Are
> RV-8 C-GQRV (reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
Chris,
extra 600 plus dollars? No sir, but it is an extra $300 over the hand
squeezer. Leave out the bandsaw ($20 die grinder and cut off wheel work
excellent in it's place) and you have broken even with a much more useful
tool.
Bill
>
> its a nice thing to have it you have the extra 600 plus dollars. If you
are
> going to get one get a avery hand squezer so the jaws are interchangable.
> For me my budget said NO to that tool. I had other tools that I wanted
more.
>
> chris wilcox
> f1 rocket kit 000
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Laser Electronic Ignition |
Fellow Listers,
Couple of quick questions:
1. Im in the process of looking at engines and am leaning towards a
160hp, O-320 from vans. They now sell these engines with an option for the
Laser electronic ignition already installed at the factory. My question is:
does anyone have any good/bad experiences with these systems? How much
really does it improve starting and fuel economy? (most of my flying would
be cross country)
2. With the electronic ignition what additional switches/indicators
needed to be added to your panels to operate/monitor the system, or will it
all operate with a normal OFF, L,R, BOTH mag type switch???
As always thanks.....
Kurt, OKC, OK
RV6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: User fees for email |
Tim Bronson wrote:
>
>
> Getlemen,
>
> I normally don't forward much in the way of unsolicited email I receive since
> there is a lot of electronic "junk mail" floating around out there. The
> following is a exception, in my opinion. I think this may be of interest
> to all of you who use this email stuff regularly.
>
> Thanks for your understanding.
>
> Tim
>
> RE: User fees for email
>
> Federal Bill 602P proposes 5-cents per
> E-mail Sent.
Same old hoax been around for ever
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Bulkhead Question |
Another Question.....
In the process of installing the second (forward most) aft top skin on
the RV6A quickbuild. Had no problem with the installation of the first skin,
but no matter how I strap, duct tape, tie, push, bend or maneuver the forward
most aft bulkhead ( the one that has the aft baggage wall attached to it) it
keeps wanting to bend and flex even with just slight pressure against it.
Just wondering if anyone else has come up with a solution to this problem (if
they have seen it) or if ya'll might think its ok to attach some .063x3/4x3/4
angle to stiffen it up a bit?? Any ideas welcome!! Thanks.
Regards,
Kurt, OKC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition |
In a message dated 7/15/2000 9:22:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< 1. Im in the process of looking at engines and am leaning towards a
160hp, O-320 from vans. They now sell these engines with an option for the
Laser electronic ignition already installed at the factory. My question is:
does anyone have any good/bad experiences with these systems? How much
really does it improve starting and fuel economy? (most of my flying would
be cross country)
>>
Laser or the FADEC system. The FADEC is for more advanced and is a factory
option also.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
In a message dated 7/15/2000 9:26:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Chris,
extra 600 plus dollars? No sir, but it is an extra $300 over the hand
squeezer. Leave out the bandsaw ($20 die grinder and cut off wheel work
excellent in it's place) and you have broken even with a much more useful
tool.
>>
Where do you get a pnemanitic squezer for only 300 dollars. Or is it 300
more then a hand one. The cheapest one I saw was about 600 dollars. Next I
would still need the hand as I like not having the compressor running all the
time since I have neighbors who HATE it. Also you would need 2 jaws for it
as you need up to the 3" for a rocket. You dont need a band saw when
building a F1 rocket.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Crak in rudder TE. How to fix? |
> I accidentally slipped a bit with the dimple arbour while dimpling the
very
> trailing edge hole of the rudder. I was able to fix it up pretty good and
it
> doesn't look too bad, but there is a small crack there.
>
> Is there any way of being proactive and fix this now, or do I just wait
> until it develops to a larger crack and then drill a hole on the other
end?
> I have even contemplated buying a new rudder skin.
Are,
Personally, I'd replace the skin. We are fortunate that Van's has these
parts readily avialable and very affordable (my guess would be $30-40 for
that skin). The rudder is usually the first place cracks develop if they are
going to. This is the reason why they came up with the RTV blobs at the end
of the trailing edges.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (probably forever)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition |
> 1. Im in the process of looking at engines and am leaning towards
a
> 160hp, O-320 from vans. They now sell these engines with an option for
the
> Laser electronic ignition already installed at the factory. My question
is:
> does anyone have any good/bad experiences with these systems? How much
> really does it improve starting and fuel economy? (most of my flying
would
> be cross country)
>
> 2. With the electronic ignition what additional
switches/indicators
> needed to be added to your panels to operate/monitor the system, or will
it
> all operate with a normal OFF, L,R, BOTH mag type switch???
Kurt,
I can't answer #1 because I am not flying with mine yet, but to answer
question #2, you use your normal switch or toggles to operate it just like
mags. You will need an extra switch (suggest a breaker switch) to turn it
off/on, and an indicator light which they do not provide (easy to find).
After talking recently at the Arlington fly-in with several builders who
have them I am still convinced it's a good way to go, just can't provide you
with any personal figures. Be aware though that many have tried to
cost-justify it and it usually becomes about a wash over the TBO of the
engine. So if you do it don't do it for the $ saving, rather the performance
benefits. Personally, I can't stand the notion of fixed timing!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Hi listers,
Can anyone tell me if the Avery yokes fit on the CP-214 pneumatic squeezer?
This is the style squeezer that Cleaveland sells, also ATP (sometimes called a
#114). Thanks
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Norhtern CA Seminar 2000 date set |
We have enough interest in a northern California to set a date
for a weekend seminar. The weekend of September 30/October 1 has
been selected. The site will be in Santa Rosa, California. Builders
and aircraft owners are invited to check over the course description
found at http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html
Reservations for this presentation may be entered on the same page.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition |
Is Van's offering the FADEC now on new engines?
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (finish kit)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: <CW9371(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Laser Electronic Ignition
>
> In a message dated 7/15/2000 9:22:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
> KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM writes:
>
> << 1. Im in the process of looking at engines and am leaning towards a
> 160hp, O-320 from vans. They now sell these engines with an option for
the
> Laser electronic ignition already installed at the factory. My question
is:
>
> does anyone have any good/bad experiences with these systems? How much
> really does it improve starting and fuel economy? (most of my flying
would
> be cross country)
> >>
>
>
> Laser or the FADEC system. The FADEC is for more advanced and is a
factory
> option also.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV Badges for Oshkosh Update Please Read |
PANELCUT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers
>
> I think I have completed all the badges that I received mailers for I have
> four that I still need some info on so if anyone knows these people tell them
> to contact me via e-mail.
>
> Gary E. Graham
> Glen Gordon & wife
> Carl J. Franz
> Gene Larson
>
> If i have missed someone PLEASE be patient I have been overwelmed with these
> things. I hope everyone is happy with the results and hope to see them all at
> Oshkosh.
>
> Steve Davis
> The Panel Pilot
>
Hi Steve,
This is Glenn Gordon with 2 "N"s on Glenn. My wifes name is Judi. What
other
information can I provide you with?
Glenn Gordon & Judi Gordon
421 West Thompson Blvd
Buffalo Grove, IL 60090
EAA Chapter 790
Building RV-6
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net
Thanks again,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | EPIC engine control |
Since someone has mentioned the LASAR and FADEC systems, I wanted to add the
supposedly Unison and Lycoming are making good progress on the EPIC system,
which would digitally control the prop pitch as well as the mixture- giving
you a one-control power system instead of three-control.
I was just looking at the Unison and Lycoming web sites and the latest
mention of it was the end of April. They were predicting it would be
available at the end of 2000. Sounds like a great idea if they can keep the
cost down, I'm going to delay the engine buy until last minute to see how
this pans out. I think it would only work on injected engines, though...
sure would be nice to get rid of those damn prop and mixture controls...
I'll call around on Monday and then post back what I find out, I expect
others would be interested as well.
Matthew
-8A 48PP
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Laser Electronic Ignition |
On 7/15 Kurt asked:
> Couple of quick questions:
>
> 1. Im in the process of looking at engines and am leaning towards
a
> 160hp, O-320 from vans. They now sell these engines with an option for
the
> Laser electronic ignition already installed at the factory. My question
is:
> does anyone have any good/bad experiences with these systems? How much
> really does it improve starting and fuel economy? (most of my flying
would
> be cross country)
>
> 2. With the electronic ignition what additional
switches/indicators
> needed to be added to your panels to operate/monitor the system, or will
it
> all operate with a normal OFF, L,R, BOTH mag type switch???
>
> As always thanks.....
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
> RV6A QB
Kurt, et al, I now have 150 hours on a Laser Electronic ignition system on
an O-320-D3G in a 4.
I am very happy with its operation and service. The engine is
significantly smoother particularly at idle. Starting has never been a
problem ether. I am realizing at least the 7-10% fuel burn reductions they
claim, particularly at higher altitudes (9000 +).
If I remember correctly a jumper is needed on the standard ignition switch
as both electronic mags are operating on startup. Instructions were
included. I also added the optional panel indicator light that signals
when the electronic controls are off and the mags are operating in the
backup mode. This is checked on the run up.
There is a point where battery voltage might be low enough to just crank
the engine slowly but to low to get the ignition controller on line. In
this case the engine won't start. Once running, in the event of total
electrical failure the mags revert to conventional operation and require no
external electrical power.
Dick Sipp
RV4-250DS 180 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead Question |
Kurt,
Most of us used a piece of plywood with large hole cut in to get c-clamps
through and clamped it to that flimsy bulkhead. I was looking at a QB6a in
Ft Worth and it had J-stringer scraps riveted to the vertical sides of the
bulkhead to stiffen it. Of course the top horizontal part of bulkhead was
still a little flimsy, but plywood could be used up there to stiffen.
Sounds like you are making good progress. I'm going to have to come by
sometime and take a look.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 9:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Bulkhead Question
>
> Another Question.....
>
> In the process of installing the second (forward most) aft top skin
on
> the RV6A quickbuild. Had no problem with the installation of the first
skin,
> but no matter how I strap, duct tape, tie, push, bend or maneuver the
forward
> most aft bulkhead ( the one that has the aft baggage wall attached to it)
it
> keeps wanting to bend and flex even with just slight pressure against it.
> Just wondering if anyone else has come up with a solution to this problem
(if
> they have seen it) or if ya'll might think its ok to attach some
.063x3/4x3/4
> angle to stiffen it up a bit?? Any ideas welcome!! Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Kurt, OKC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)avidyne.com> |
Subject: | hand vs neumatic |
>Where do you get a pnemanitic squezer for only 300 dollars.
>Or is it 300 more then a hand one. The cheapest one I saw
>was about 600 dollars. Next I would still need the hand as
>I like not having the compressor running all the time since
>I have neighbors who HATE it.
I found a used pneumatic squeezer for ~$300 without trying very hard, no
problem. I still have the hand squeezer for the "odd squeeze" or two. The
compressor has hardly anything to do with it - it uses about three
tablespoons of air per squeeze or something, so it rarely cycles the
compressor. If you've got $300 bucks for one I wouldn't hesitate in a
second. No clamping, one-handed squeeze, perfect dimple or rivet every
time, much better chance of hitting it square, etc. Once you go around the
edge of a wing skin dimpling a 100 holes in a couple of minutes and you'll
understand what a great tool it is if you can afford it.
Mitch Faatz RV-6AQ Finish Kit
Bedford, MA (for now)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
> I just ordered a 6A quick-build....... would you still recommend neumatic
> squeezer.
Depends on how much cash you can tie up. When the project is done you can
sell the pneumatic - easily! I am finishing up my RV6a quickbuild and wish
I would have saved time with that investment. The question is just one of
available cash.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead Question |
In a message dated 7/15/00 7:33:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time, KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< it keeps wanting to bend and flex even with just slight pressure against
it. >>
I cut out a panel of 1/4 plywood that fit about 1 in. inside the F-606
bulkhead all around to stiffen it (on the back side so that it did not
interfere with drilling and clecoing. It was held in place by #30 clecos
through the same holes that were later enlarged for the #8 screws that hold
the rear baggage panels in place. That worked OK but next time (HAH!) I
would use 1/2 in. or even 3/4 in. plywood because I still got a little
flexing when I pulled the straps down to snug the skin. As a result I have a
small forward sweep in the rivet line that I will later swear was intentional.
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit (worrying about where to run wiring)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Crak in rudder TE. How to fix? |
> I accidentally slipped a bit with the dimple
Only you can decide if you can stand the repair you would make following
AC43.13.
If possible, leave it and move on to the rest of the airplane. After you
gain more experience and make more serious booboos, you will have a better
feel for how to deal with this.
IMHO, creating a perfect machine can prevent on from ever creating a machine
at all. This is your first, surely, so consider it a "student project" and
move on. Make a note on the rudder skin with a magic marker.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Maybe I can be enlightened on this subject: I have a relatively new
overhauled engine, after engine start the idle oil pressure is 55-60 psi
(OAT is 80-90'f). During take-off the oil pressure is 75 psi but after a
few minutes (when the oil has heated up to 180'f it slowly begins to fall
to 60-63 psi (bottom of the green arc) and just stays there, max oil temps
are 210'f. I have turned the pressure relief spring in to its limit (this
brought it up to its current reading). I am running a constant speed prop
on a 200HP lycoming and the oil pressure pickup (electric) is on the front
of the case on the other side of the govenor. The oil is 50 weight....I
think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring. On other airplanes
I have flown I have not seen such a drastic drop of oil pressure as the oil
heats up...when I taxi in the pressure is 45 psi at 900 rpm's. Does the
location of the oil pressure transducer effect the pressure reading very
much ( I assume it does to a point) ? Oil quantity is fine. This is not
critical but I would feel better if the pressure was in the 80 psi range.
THX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead Question |
> In the process of installing the second (forward most) aft top skin
on
> the RV6A quickbuild. Had no problem with the installation of the first
skin,
> but no matter how I strap, duct tape, tie, push, bend or maneuver
.........
I think there are three problems with this part of the QB kit.
First, this is a difficult thing to make with no more experience than one
has gotten at this point in the project and the instructions are not very
good.
Second, the bulkheads are far from perfect.
Third, the bulkheads are too soft and floppy for the method suggested.
I did my second try with this large piece only after making plywood bulkhead
stiffeners. I cut them approximately and roughly to shape and clecoed them
to the bulkheads. This keeps the bulkheads flat. Then, strap the sheet
down near the bulkheads and duct tape the straps in place. Check to be sure
the bulkheads are staanding straight too. When you have it all clecoed up,
check with a skimming light to see where shims are needed.
Before you close it up you might put in wiring, seat belts, etc.
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
> Where do you get a pnemanitic squezer for only 300 dollars. Or is it 300
> more then a hand one. The cheapest one I saw was about 600 dollars.
I did indeed mean 300 over the hand squeezer.
> Next I
> would still need the hand as I like not having the compressor running all
the
> time since I have neighbors who HATE it.
Compressor noise is a concern, if you have an oil free version. Keep in
mind though the squeezer uses VERY little air. It's only a tiny pshhhh
between rivets so even a small tank wouldn't run all that much due to the
squeezer.
> Also you would need 2 jaws for it
> as you need up to the 3" for a rocket.
If you need two jaws for the pneumatic, then you need them for the handheld
as well. I have not needed more than one, but I could see the use for a
thin nose no hole version.
> You dont need a band saw when
> building a F1 rocket.
No sir....but you do need one seriously deep wallet. :-) Just don't
smoke past me too badly....I'm kinda sensitive about speed and might burst
into tears on the radio. You don't want to listen to that now do you?
It's a miserable cloudy mess of a day here in Central Florida. As soon as I
finish the crown moulding in the master, I'll be building airplane all day
Woohooo. I love standing in the garage building a time machine when it's
raining like hell out.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead Question |
Jerry,
Thanks for the note. Ive put in some hours, but have only really
finished that rear skin, seats, bagage bin and seat floors, electric flaps,
and will start the controls next week if I can get the other skin going and
can stand to be in the garage when its 100 degrees!!!!
How is your kit going? Have you passed me up yet?? I havent touched
the wings yet...think I'll go as far as I can on the fuse, then hit the
wings. Drop by anytime. I get home on Monday night and will be in town
until the 23rd of the month, so drop by....address is 5216 SE 88th Street,
just off of I-240 and sooner road. Number is 670-6240home/203-0874cell.
Ive been distracted most of last month with both of my rental properties
so I have been negligent in my building duties.....as I remember your
familiar with that so you can relate!!! Also, say Hi to all the EAA
folks.....as usual Im working this Sunday, but I guess you can assure them
that Im low maintenance since I never get to the meetings, but I do keep up
with the emails that Sid and Dianne send me.
Also...Im still trying to unload a King KMA-24 with MB that I have, so
if anyone in the Chapter is looking for one I can make them a good deal!!
Its yellow tagged and still in the box. I paid about $850 a year ago, but
with prices going down I would take $750 if I didnt' have to mail it. If not
I may try e-bay. Also have a splitter that I was going to use to tie two
nav radios into a single nav ant. I think Im going to go with just one nav
radio and a gps. Let me know if anyone is looking for something like
that.....
Take care and keep building....
Kurt
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
Christopher:
Your readings sound about right to me given my experience on the 0-320 in my
RV-4. I mounted my transducer on a port near the pressure relief spring on
top of the engine. I did this for convenience (after counsulting with
Lycoming). I believe the technician said the oil pressure can vary about 10
psi from back to front of the engine with the highest reading in the
accessory section near the oil pump. My oil pressure reading is about 5 psi
lower than normal probably due to the location of the transducer. You might
check with Lycoming.
I don't know why, but my engine came straight from Lycoming with this port
(a small allen plug), while I have yet to see another 0-320 with this port
near the pressure relief valve.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 11:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil pressure
>
> Maybe I can be enlightened on this subject: I have a relatively new
> overhauled engine, after engine start the idle oil pressure is 55-60 psi
> (OAT is 80-90'f). During take-off the oil pressure is 75 psi but after a
> few minutes (when the oil has heated up to 180'f it slowly begins to fall
> to 60-63 psi (bottom of the green arc) and just stays there, max oil temps
> are 210'f. I have turned the pressure relief spring in to its limit (this
> brought it up to its current reading). I am running a constant speed prop
> on a 200HP lycoming and the oil pressure pickup (electric) is on the front
> of the case on the other side of the govenor. The oil is 50 weight....I
> think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring. On other
airplanes
> I have flown I have not seen such a drastic drop of oil pressure as the
oil
> heats up...when I taxi in the pressure is 45 psi at 900 rpm's. Does the
> location of the oil pressure transducer effect the pressure reading very
> much ( I assume it does to a point) ? Oil quantity is fine. This is not
> critical but I would feel better if the pressure was in the 80 psi range.
>
> THX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Bulkhead Question |
next time I'll check the sent to box.....=(
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
It is true that pressure well very from front to back. My concern here
is that you or anyone is mounting the transducer to the engine itself
this is not a good thing. I know that lot of people have done it
and have had no problems but the posibility is there that the vibration
can cause fatigue and break the transducer off. Most applacations
are installed using a flex line to the transducer mounted on the
firewall in some type of manifold or bracket to hold it.
I have seen what is left of a Questar Venture after the oil
transducer broke off, not a pretty sight.
Pat Hatch wrote:
>
>
> Christopher:
>
> Your readings sound about right to me given my experience on the 0-320 in my
> RV-4. I mounted my transducer on a port near the pressure relief spring on
> top of the engine. I did this for convenience (after counsulting with
> Lycoming). I believe the technician said the oil pressure can vary about 10
> psi from back to front of the engine with the highest reading in the
> accessory section near the oil pump. My oil pressure reading is about 5 psi
> lower than normal probably due to the location of the transducer. You might
> check with Lycoming.
>
> I don't know why, but my engine came straight from Lycoming with this port
> (a small allen plug), while I have yet to see another 0-320 with this port
> near the pressure relief valve.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
> RV-6, Fuselage.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 11:49 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Oil pressure
>
> >
> > Maybe I can be enlightened on this subject: I have a relatively new
> > overhauled engine, after engine start the idle oil pressure is 55-60 psi
> > (OAT is 80-90'f). During take-off the oil pressure is 75 psi but after a
> > few minutes (when the oil has heated up to 180'f it slowly begins to fall
> > to 60-63 psi (bottom of the green arc) and just stays there, max oil temps
> > are 210'f. I have turned the pressure relief spring in to its limit (this
> > brought it up to its current reading). I am running a constant speed prop
> > on a 200HP lycoming and the oil pressure pickup (electric) is on the front
> > of the case on the other side of the govenor. The oil is 50 weight....I
> > think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring. On other
> airplanes
> > I have flown I have not seen such a drastic drop of oil pressure as the
> oil
> > heats up...when I taxi in the pressure is 45 psi at 900 rpm's. Does the
> > location of the oil pressure transducer effect the pressure reading very
> > much ( I assume it does to a point) ? Oil quantity is fine. This is not
> > critical but I would feel better if the pressure was in the 80 psi range.
> >
> > THX
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
Subject: | Re: Lasar Electronic Ignition |
Unison cleared up the low voltage starting problem with their newer
STC'd units, ala the Katana/Diamond DA-40
>
>
> On 7/15 Kurt asked:
>
> snip
>
> snip
> There is a point where battery voltage might be low enough to just crank
> the engine slowly but to low to get the ignition controller on line. In
> this case the engine won't start. Once running, in the event of total
> electrical failure the mags revert to conventional operation and require no
> external electrical power.
>
> Dick Sipp
> RV4-250DS 180 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Subject: | Re: User fees for email |
Tim Bronson wrote:
>
>
> Getlemen,
>
> I normally don't forward much in the way of unsolicited email I receive since
> there is a lot of electronic "junk mail" floating around out there. The
> following is a exception, in my opinion. I think this may be of interest
> to all of you who use this email stuff regularly.
>
> Thanks for your understanding.
>
> Tim
>
> RE: User fees for email
>
> Federal Bill 602P proposes 5-cents per
> E-mail Sent. It figures! No more free E-mail! We knew this was coming!!
> Bill 602P will permit the Federal Government to charge a 5-cent charge
> From: Dan Baun <baun(at)cboss.com>
> Subject: User fees for email
Tim,
Are you trolling, or did you just get hooked? :->
The Postal Service has repeatedly denied any interest in this, and has
repeatedly said that it has no intention to ask for this. They even had
a denial posted on their web site for awhile. It might interest you to
know that the USPS receives NO tax money at all.
If you are interested, I can supply you with a lot more info. Just email
me off-list.
Charlie
flying -4
USPS employee
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
Okay, I'm being paranoid, but please help.
I'm fitting the canopy and have trimmed to the lines scribed on the canopy
at Van's.
The front of the canopy is the prescribed 3 1/4" back from the reference
point, per the drawings. The fit is nearly perfect at front, rear and
sides, but the top is about 1" too high for the roll bar to which it's to be
rivetted.
Obviously the thing has to be lowered. I could cut some off the bottom or I
could move the canopy to the rear, but I'm concerned that there's that much
clearance when I've reached the line Van's says is about as far as I should
go. Everything else on this plane has been pretty much dead on to Van's
dimensions.
Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions before I apply a cut-off
wheel to my $800 hunk of plastic?
George Kilishek
N888RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
Last year in the oshkosh flymarket $320 with 4" yoke, rebuild.
Gert
CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 7/15/2000 9:26:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
> billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
>
> << Chris,
>
> extra 600 plus dollars? No sir, but it is an extra $300 over the hand
> squeezer. Leave out the bandsaw ($20 die grinder and cut off wheel work
> excellent in it's place) and you have broken even with a much more useful
> tool.
> >>
>
> Where do you get a pnemanitic squezer for only 300 dollars. Or is it 300
> more then a hand one. The cheapest one I saw was about 600 dollars. Next I
> would still need the hand as I like not having the compressor running all the
> time since I have neighbors who HATE it. Also you would need 2 jaws for it
> as you need up to the 3" for a rocket. You dont need a band saw when
> building a F1 rocket.
>
> chris
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Crak in rudder TE. How to fix? |
Hal, great advise couldn't have said it better myself. Way to many projects
never get finished because of the perceived perfection required. If this is your
first project, take a few hours off, go to airport and look at the factory spam
cans. Look real close at some of the details, then go home, relax and build your
airplane.
Nuff preaching.
Garry "6" finishing and finishing.
kempthornes wrote:
>
> > I accidentally slipped a bit with the dimple
>
> Only you can decide if you can stand the repair you would make following
> AC43.13.
>
> If possible, leave it and move on to the rest of the airplane. After you
> gain more experience and make more serious booboos, you will have a better
> feel for how to deal with this.
>
> IMHO, creating a perfect machine can prevent on from ever creating a machine
> at all. This is your first, surely, so consider it a "student project" and
> move on. Make a note on the rudder skin with a magic marker.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "gertivs" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator cracks/kinks |
I have been reading with interest listers descriptions of cracks in the
elevators/rudders, particularly at the stiffeners. Yes I have developed the
cracks too. But unfortunately my left elevator has begun a new problem;
kinks in the trailing edge. Not down as you would think but bending UP?!
First one then two and now three kinks in the outboard 1/3 of the trailing
edge. After a lot of headscratching I think that during high G up elevator
the counterbalance downward pressure is stronger than the trailing edge can
stand so that the edge is actually bending up against the wind. I fixed the
first one by cutting away cracked metal with a halfmoon and filling with an
aluminum filler. Since then two more kinks. Obviously not a solution. I am
now considering rebuilding both elevators. I do not think the goop in the
trailing edge will have any affect on the kinks. Would simply building with
heavier skins solve everything?
Paul Vander Schuur
-4 at 270 hours
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
Jerry,
Maybe I am confusing terminology. The gauge is a combination Westach oil
pressure/temp gauge (seems to work/ got it cheap) and the "transducer"?? is
alittle bigger than a .45 cal handgun casing which screwed into the case
with the leads attached. It is a electric gauge and the leads("wires")
certainly seem flexible.......certainly more flexible then the steel
braided line for my fuel flow (attached to the flow divider). This is the
way the instructions depicted it......is this a bad set-up??? Seems
airworthy.
Chris
----------
> From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
> Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 3:01 PM
>
>
> It is true that pressure well very from front to back. My concern here
> is that you or anyone is mounting the transducer to the engine itself
> this is not a good thing. I know that lot of people have done it
> and have had no problems but the posibility is there that the vibration
> can cause fatigue and break the transducer off. Most applacations
> are installed using a flex line to the transducer mounted on the
> firewall in some type of manifold or bracket to hold it.
> I have seen what is left of a Questar Venture after the oil
> transducer broke off, not a pretty sight.
>
>
> Pat Hatch wrote:
> >
> >
> > Christopher:
> >
> > Your readings sound about right to me given my experience on the 0-320
in my
> > RV-4. I mounted my transducer on a port near the pressure relief
spring on
> > top of the engine. I did this for convenience (after counsulting with
> > Lycoming). I believe the technician said the oil pressure can vary
about 10
> > psi from back to front of the engine with the highest reading in the
> > accessory section near the oil pump. My oil pressure reading is about
5 psi
> > lower than normal probably due to the location of the transducer. You
might
> > check with Lycoming.
> >
> > I don't know why, but my engine came straight from Lycoming with this
port
> > (a small allen plug), while I have yet to see another 0-320 with this
port
> > near the pressure relief valve.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
> > RV-6, Fuselage.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 11:49 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Oil pressure
> >
> > >
> > > Maybe I can be enlightened on this subject: I have a relatively new
> > > overhauled engine, after engine start the idle oil pressure is 55-60
psi
> > > (OAT is 80-90'f). During take-off the oil pressure is 75 psi but
after a
> > > few minutes (when the oil has heated up to 180'f it slowly begins to
fall
> > > to 60-63 psi (bottom of the green arc) and just stays there, max oil
temps
> > > are 210'f. I have turned the pressure relief spring in to its limit
(this
> > > brought it up to its current reading). I am running a constant speed
prop
> > > on a 200HP lycoming and the oil pressure pickup (electric) is on the
front
> > > of the case on the other side of the govenor. The oil is 50
weight....I
> > > think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring. On other
> > airplanes
> > > I have flown I have not seen such a drastic drop of oil pressure as
the
> > oil
> > > heats up...when I taxi in the pressure is 45 psi at 900 rpm's. Does
the
> > > location of the oil pressure transducer effect the pressure reading
very
> > > much ( I assume it does to a point) ? Oil quantity is fine. This is
not
> > > critical but I would feel better if the pressure was in the 80 psi
range.
> > >
> > > THX
> > >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
George,
I just did this today. You're right that it still needs to come down.
Focus more on the front at first, then the back as needed to keep it off the
skin. The sides need not be touched until the end (except to trim around
the canopy latch tube). Remember that once your on the rollbar you'll need
to get someone inside to raise the canopy frame up (sliding on the roller
attachment tubes) until it is flush with the canopy.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A
Vienna VA
----- Original Message -----
From: Sally and George <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
>
> Okay, I'm being paranoid, but please help.
>
> I'm fitting the canopy and have trimmed to the lines scribed on the canopy
> at Van's.
>
> The front of the canopy is the prescribed 3 1/4" back from the reference
> point, per the drawings. The fit is nearly perfect at front, rear and
> sides, but the top is about 1" too high for the roll bar to which it's to
be
> rivetted.
>
> Obviously the thing has to be lowered. I could cut some off the bottom or
I
> could move the canopy to the rear, but I'm concerned that there's that
much
> clearance when I've reached the line Van's says is about as far as I
should
> go. Everything else on this plane has been pretty much dead on to Van's
> dimensions.
>
> Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions before I apply a
cut-off
> wheel to my $800 hunk of plastic?
>
> George Kilishek
> N888RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Where's the metal |
In a message dated 7/14/00 8:39:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net writes:
<<
WAYNE BONESTEEL wrote:
>
> I have 9.4 hours on my RV-4 and going to do inspection and oil change.
> I would like to know where the particulates such as metal accumulate
> in the oil filter, any info would be appreciated >>
An old hand at this,(actually he's younger than me, but been doing this for a
long time) cut the end off, then he pulled the two internal end caps. He laid
out the filter paper on some paper towels (much like my wife when she's doing
beacon in the microwave), the next morning he looked at it in the sunlight.
Any metal particles stood right out like points of light. The real question
is how many is too many. We only saw a couple and he said this was probably
on the low side for a first oil change!
Has anyone got any pro or con comments on the opener that Avery sells
compared to the more expensive ones I've seen in other catalogs?
Bernie Kerr, 6A flying, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
Hi Chris:
I would take Jerry's advice and move your transducer to the fire wall. I
know of three incidents of a failed transducer due to vibration. The failure
that Jerry is referring to is not the wires but the transducer itself, they
fail in the threads were it screws into the engine. When this happens it
doesn't give you a lot of time until all the oil is pumped overboard.
It does sound like yours is smaller than the one's I am used to but I would
still be uncomfortable with any of them screwed directly into the engine.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: christopher huey <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
>
>Jerry,
>
>Maybe I am confusing terminology. The gauge is a combination Westach oil
>pressure/temp gauge (seems to work/ got it cheap) and the "transducer"?? is
>alittle bigger than a .45 cal handgun casing which screwed into the case
>with the leads attached. It is a electric gauge and the leads("wires")
>certainly seem flexible.......certainly more flexible then the steel
>braided line for my fuel flow (attached to the flow divider). This is the
>way the instructions depicted it......is this a bad set-up??? Seems
>airworthy.
>
>Chris
>
>----------
>> From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
>> Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 3:01 PM
>>
>>
>> It is true that pressure well very from front to back. My concern here
>> is that you or anyone is mounting the transducer to the engine itself
>> this is not a good thing. I know that lot of people have done it
>> and have had no problems but the posibility is there that the vibration
>> can cause fatigue and break the transducer off. Most applacations
>> are installed using a flex line to the transducer mounted on the
>> firewall in some type of manifold or bracket to hold it.
>> I have seen what is left of a Questar Venture after the oil
>> transducer broke off, not a pretty sight.
>>
>>
>> Pat Hatch wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Christopher:
>> >
>> > Your readings sound about right to me given my experience on the 0-320
>in my
>> > RV-4. I mounted my transducer on a port near the pressure relief
>spring on
>> > top of the engine. I did this for convenience (after counsulting with
>> > Lycoming). I believe the technician said the oil pressure can vary
>about 10
>> > psi from back to front of the engine with the highest reading in the
>> > accessory section near the oil pump. My oil pressure reading is about
>5 psi
>> > lower than normal probably due to the location of the transducer. You
>might
>> > check with Lycoming.
>> >
>> > I don't know why, but my engine came straight from Lycoming with this
>port
>> > (a small allen plug), while I have yet to see another 0-320 with this
>port
>> > near the pressure relief valve.
>> >
>> > Pat Hatch
>> > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
>> > RV-6, Fuselage.
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
>> > To:
>> > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 11:49 AM
>> > Subject: RV-List: Oil pressure
>> >
>
>> > >
>> > > Maybe I can be enlightened on this subject: I have a relatively new
>> > > overhauled engine, after engine start the idle oil pressure is 55-60
>psi
>> > > (OAT is 80-90'f). During take-off the oil pressure is 75 psi but
>after a
>> > > few minutes (when the oil has heated up to 180'f it slowly begins to
>fall
>> > > to 60-63 psi (bottom of the green arc) and just stays there, max oil
>temps
>> > > are 210'f. I have turned the pressure relief spring in to its limit
>(this
>> > > brought it up to its current reading). I am running a constant speed
>prop
>> > > on a 200HP lycoming and the oil pressure pickup (electric) is on the
>front
>> > > of the case on the other side of the govenor. The oil is 50
>weight....I
>> > > think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring. On other
>> > airplanes
>> > > I have flown I have not seen such a drastic drop of oil pressure as
>the
>> > oil
>> > > heats up...when I taxi in the pressure is 45 psi at 900 rpm's. Does
>the
>> > > location of the oil pressure transducer effect the pressure reading
>very
>> > > much ( I assume it does to a point) ? Oil quantity is fine. This is
>not
>> > > critical but I would feel better if the pressure was in the 80 psi
>range.
>> > >
>> > > THX
>> > >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Vertical Card Compass |
I've flown planes with vertical card compasses and never had one work right,
so I never considered putting one in my plane, and instead went with a
traditional whiskey compass. Well I was just searching (surfing) the web
looking for some unrelated stuff about compasses and came across an
interesting article about why vertical card compasses are so notoriously
unreliable. In a nutshell, if you use a steel screwdriver that is even
moderately magnetized to install the compass, the pin that holds the magnet
can and often does get pulled out by the magnetism of the installing tool,
and the thing will of course be way off after that. Easy to fix by taking it
apart and putting the pin back, and to avoid by using a non-magnetic
screwdriver. The article was written by an avionics shop and they said they
can't modify the compass so it won't happen but it seems to me that would be
SIMPLE too. I recommend anyone who hs a VCC or is considering getting one
take a look. Maybe this problem is known by now and the manufacturers have
fixed it but anyway it seems worth knowing about.
The article is at http://avionicswest.com/articles.htm.
Still wondering about my original question however, which is, how do I swing
the compass in my taildragger -6? I've been told and it seems reasonable
that I can't get an accurate reading with the engine running on the ground
since it won't be at a level flight attitude. A couple of people told me to
line up on section lines but that only gives N S E W (and are the section
lines true?) Must be some way to use GPS but that's only going to be
accurate in a calm wind, right? Or am I missing something. What say the
gurus?
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Portland, OR visit |
Hi,
Contact Jerry Springer, a really nice guy. There are plenty of RV's at the
Hillsbourogh (I know I spelt that wrong) where he is hangered. I was just
there the weekend of the 4th.
Give him a call, I don't have his number sorry. Say John Danielson gave you
his name.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
>
>
>Okay, I'm being paranoid, but please help.
>
>I'm fitting the canopy and have trimmed to the lines scribed on the canopy
>at Van's.
>
>The front of the canopy is the prescribed 3 1/4" back from the reference
>point, per the drawings. The fit is nearly perfect at front, rear and
>sides, but the top is about 1" too high for the roll bar to which it's to
>be
>rivetted.
>
>Obviously the thing has to be lowered. I could cut some off the bottom or
>I
>could move the canopy to the rear, but I'm concerned that there's that much
>clearance when I've reached the line Van's says is about as far as I should
>go. Everything else on this plane has been pretty much dead on to Van's
>dimensions.
>
>Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions before I apply a cut-off
>wheel to my $800 hunk of plastic?
>
>George Kilishek
>N888RV
George,
Paranoia is quite common when installing the canopy. Still, it really isn't
that bad. Now, it appears you are very close to the point where I boldly
ventured into the unknown and cut the windscreen free from the rest of the
canopy. Once you have the front end trimmed to an approximate fit around
the front deck as you have done, the whole job becomes much easier once the
two sections are separated. This allows you to fit each piece for the best
fit. I think I would make one more pass around the windscreen portion
bottom edge, and take off maybe another 1/2". I positioned the front edge
of the windscreen right where the plans show it should be and trimmed enough
so that the canopy would just barely touch the top of the rollbar. Don't
worry about how it conforms to the sides right now, that will be taken care
of once the separation cut is made. Once this is done, cut that canopy
loose and set 'em free! Hellelujah. There are some additional tips on mine
and Randy Lervold's website which you might want to look at as well.
Hang in there.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
110 hrs.
Paint job time!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
>
>
>Still wondering about my original question however, which is, how do I
swing
>the compass in my taildragger -6? I've been told and it seems reasonable
>that I can't get an accurate reading with the engine running on the ground
>since it won't be at a level flight attitude. A couple of people told me to
>line up on section lines but that only gives N S E W (and are the section
>lines true?) Must be some way to use GPS but that's only going to be
>accurate in a calm wind, right? Or am I missing something. What say the
>gurus?
Randall,
I like the swing-it-in-the-air method. Line up on the section lines and set
your DG, taking into account variation. Swing it in the conventional manor
but using the DG now instead of pavement markings.
Keep checking the DG with the section lines.
It worked well for me and it is hard to simulate the flight condition any
better than actually being in flight. Use caution in Texas, some of their
section lines don't line up with anything; very disorienting (maybe they are
lined up with magnetic directions).
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Not flying while I wait for Lamar to figure out a way to keep
the rear starter bearing from continually falling out.
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition |
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
I really can't add anything that hasn't already been said except to say that
I ordered this system for my O-360, which I just picked up from Van's on
Tuesday (with a BIG dent in the left forward rocker box cover!). Ordered it
for most of the same reasons Randy did. Anybody know if there is a Lycoming
rep in the Seattle area?
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591
on the gear, about to mount the wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Elevator cracks/kinks |
In a message dated 7/15/00 8:48:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gertivs(at)netzero.net writes:
<< I have been reading with interest listers descriptions of cracks in the
elevators/rudders, particularly at the stiffeners. Yes I have developed the
cracks too. But unfortunately my left elevator has begun a new problem;
kinks in the trailing edge. Not down as you would think but bending UP?!
First one then two and now three kinks in the outboard 1/3 of the trailing
edge. After a lot of headscratching I think that during high G up elevator
the counterbalance downward pressure is stronger than the trailing edge can
stand so that the edge is actually bending up against the wind. I fixed the
first one by cutting away cracked metal with a halfmoon and filling with an
aluminum filler. Since then two more kinks. Obviously not a solution. I am
now considering rebuilding both elevators. I do not think the goop in the
trailing edge will have any affect on the kinks. Would simply building with
heavier skins solve everything?
Paul Vander Schuur
-4 at 270 hours
Why pay for something you could get for free? >>
Paul,
The way I read your post, it sounds like you are cutting away small sections
of the trailing edge of your elevator. If you've done this, I'd recommend
calling the factory before flying the aircraft again. I have no idea how
much of a safety factor was designed into the elevators, but if you've cut
away any part of the trailing edge, you've considerably reduced the torsional
rigidity of your elevator. Since you're already seeing deformation in this
area, I really, really think this could be a safety issue for you.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
okay here is how we do it in the real world. If you
want the truest reading you can get this is how.
1. get a piece of scrap brass rod and use a die
grinder or bench grinder and make it into a
screwdriver.
2. take your airplane to a compass rose.
3. take with you a saw horse that will put the
airplane in a level flight attitude.
4. turn on all electrical equipment. Your engine does
not need to be running
5. start at North and tap your compass (lightly with
your hand) with the airplane in a level flight
attitude adjust as neccessary with your new brass
screw driver. Tap it again and make sure the
adjustment has held.
6. repeat as above for all headings
7. turn off all electrical equipment (dont want to
drain your battery)
8 remove saw horse (take it back to the hangar)
9. check your oil
10. go fly
Glenn
--- Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> I've flown planes with vertical card compasses and
> never had one work right,
> so I never considered putting one in my plane, and
> instead went with a
> traditional whiskey compass. Well I was just
> searching (surfing) the web
> looking for some unrelated stuff about compasses and
> came across an
> interesting article about why vertical card
> compasses are so notoriously
> unreliable. In a nutshell, if you use a steel
> screwdriver that is even
> moderately magnetized to install the compass, the
> pin that holds the magnet
> can and often does get pulled out by the magnetism
> of the installing tool,
> and the thing will of course be way off after that.
> Easy to fix by taking it
> apart and putting the pin back, and to avoid by
> using a non-magnetic
> screwdriver. The article was written by an avionics
> shop and they said they
> can't modify the compass so it won't happen but it
> seems to me that would be
> SIMPLE too. I recommend anyone who hs a VCC or is
> considering getting one
> take a look. Maybe this problem is known by now and
> the manufacturers have
> fixed it but anyway it seems worth knowing about.
>
> The article is at
> http://avionicswest.com/articles.htm.
>
> Still wondering about my original question however,
> which is, how do I swing
> the compass in my taildragger -6? I've been told and
> it seems reasonable
> that I can't get an accurate reading with the engine
> running on the ground
> since it won't be at a level flight attitude. A
> couple of people told me to
> line up on section lines but that only gives N S E W
> (and are the section
> lines true?) Must be some way to use GPS but that's
> only going to be
> accurate in a calm wind, right? Or am I missing
> something. What say the
> gurus?
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Portland, OR visit |
JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> Contact Jerry Springer, a really nice guy. There are plenty of RV's at the
> Hillsbourogh (I know I spelt that wrong) where he is hangered. I was just
> there the weekend of the 4th.
> Give him a call, I don't have his number sorry. Say John Danielson gave you
> his name.
>
> John Danielson
> Fuselage
>
Gee John I am blushing:-) Glad you liked your ride.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ronvandervort(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition |
Kurt,
I have the Lasar as purchased new from Van's on an 0-360. With 318 hours
on it my experience is:
1. Great starting, but in Seattle area that is no problem from the cold
anyway.
2. Unable to hand prop because of no impulse coupling, so I was not able
to fly
with a failed starter solenoid. Same with dead battery.
3. At approx. 300 hrs the left mag failed. Unison sent me a new left and
right mag
at no cost to install as the early ones had failing relay problems.
(that is
suspected to be my problem.) At this time I do not know yet what the
diagnosis
is on my failed mag as Unison hasn't had the chance to sort it all
out due to the
key person having been on vacation.
3. Yes you should install either a switch, or a breaker that you can pull
as a switch,
to the Lasar system. Reason being that if at cold cranking the Lasar
system
senses too low a voltage/or current avail, it takes itself out of the
operation ie.
if the black box doesn't get proper voltage or current it shuts down.
By having
a switch you can have the Lasar off until after the initial cranking,
and turn it on
once the engine has started to rotate and the initial voltage/current
drain from
the starter has passed. It is rarely needed here in Seattle, but in
colder climes
I would guess it would be most appreciated.
4. There is an option also to install a warning lite that illuminates
when the Lasar
system is not the primary system, ie. a failure or shut down of some
sort. I
recommend the warning lite. I put a little pea size lite in that
takes up no space
at all. It will help in the diagnosis of my mag failure problem from
the operators
standpoint at least.
I hope this helps,
Ron Vandervort, Seattle area, RV-6 318 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-List:Pneumatic VS Hand |
Ok, now you guys got me wanting an air squeezer. My tool lust hormones are
running rampant after a 12 hour day in the shop anyway. Does anyone have one
for sale?
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Bulkhead Question |
I did this too, on my slow-build RV-6A. I still had to shim the skin on
both sides at the main longeron to make it lie smooth.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Kurt,
Most of us used a piece of plywood with large hole cut in to
get c-clamps
through and clamped it to that flimsy bulkhead.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 64 Msgs - 07/15/00 |
>
> From: Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com>
> Subject: RV-List: User fees for email
>
> Getlemen,
>
> I normally don't forward much in the way of unsolicited email I receive since
> there is a lot of electronic "junk mail" floating around out there. The
> following is a exception, in my opinion. I think this may be of interest
> to all of you who use this email stuff regularly.
>
> Thanks for your understanding.
>
> Tim
>
> RE: User fees for email
>
> Federal Bill 602P proposes 5-cents per
> E-mail Sent. It figures! No more free E-mail! We knew this was coming!!
> Bill 602P will permit the Federal Government to charge a 5-cent charge
> on every delivered E-mail.
On the theory that an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure...I saw that this
has been
addressed already by others (including Tim), but this is a site worth going to
when you want to
check out other possible hoaxes:
http://www.urbanlegends.com/
One of the pages that addresses this particular hoax is
http://www.urbanlegends.com/ulz/emailtax.html
Semper Fi
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robynne" <robynne(at)harare.iafrica.com> |
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
posted by: RE Miller
>
>
> --- KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM>
> A pneumatic squeezer enables even a novice to produce
> professional looking rivets in a second. It's also
> very useful for dimpling. You will find yourself
> going to it whenever possible. I would recommend the
> Avery Squeezer with 4" jaws. A "MUST HAVE" in my
> humble book.
>
> RE Miller
> RV-8 Finishing Fuse
>
> I have had only the pneumatic squeezer from the start and would not want
to be without it
It saves time and fatigue
The 4" yoke is probably a bit to flexible for 1/8" rivets and weight is also
to be considered
I have made myself 4 extra yokes, including several no hole yokes, as the
need arose , and consider it money and effort well worth it
Jan Rijkers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
Chris:
I agree with Jerry Springer and Eustace that the transducer should be
mounted on the firewall, probably even the small one that you have. I
should have clarified this in my message...I mounted mine on the engine some
10 years ago before I knew better. And it is on my list of things "to do."
Same goes for the fuel pressure transducer and oil temp. Van sells a small
manifold for this purpose that mounts on the firewall and has three ports
for transducers. Probably the way to go.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
>
> Jerry,
>
> Maybe I am confusing terminology. The gauge is a combination Westach oil
> pressure/temp gauge (seems to work/ got it cheap) and the "transducer"??
is
> alittle bigger than a .45 cal handgun casing which screwed into the case
> with the leads attached. It is a electric gauge and the leads("wires")
> certainly seem flexible.......certainly more flexible then the steel
> braided line for my fuel flow (attached to the flow divider). This is the
> way the instructions depicted it......is this a bad set-up??? Seems
> airworthy.
>
> Chris
>
> ----------
> > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
> > Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 3:01 PM
> >
> >
> > It is true that pressure well very from front to back. My concern here
> > is that you or anyone is mounting the transducer to the engine itself
> > this is not a good thing. I know that lot of people have done it
> > and have had no problems but the posibility is there that the vibration
> > can cause fatigue and break the transducer off. Most applacations
> > are installed using a flex line to the transducer mounted on the
> > firewall in some type of manifold or bracket to hold it.
> > I have seen what is left of a Questar Venture after the oil
> > transducer broke off, not a pretty sight.
> >
> >
> > Pat Hatch wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Christopher:
> > >
> > > Your readings sound about right to me given my experience on the 0-320
> in my
> > > RV-4. I mounted my transducer on a port near the pressure relief
> spring on
> > > top of the engine. I did this for convenience (after counsulting with
> > > Lycoming). I believe the technician said the oil pressure can vary
> about 10
> > > psi from back to front of the engine with the highest reading in the
> > > accessory section near the oil pump. My oil pressure reading is about
> 5 psi
> > > lower than normal probably due to the location of the transducer. You
> might
> > > check with Lycoming.
> > >
> > > I don't know why, but my engine came straight from Lycoming with this
> port
> > > (a small allen plug), while I have yet to see another 0-320 with this
> port
> > > near the pressure relief valve.
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch
> > > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
> > > RV-6, Fuselage.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 11:49 AM
> > > Subject: RV-List: Oil pressure
> > >
>
> > > >
> > > > Maybe I can be enlightened on this subject: I have a relatively new
> > > > overhauled engine, after engine start the idle oil pressure is 55-60
> psi
> > > > (OAT is 80-90'f). During take-off the oil pressure is 75 psi but
> after a
> > > > few minutes (when the oil has heated up to 180'f it slowly begins to
> fall
> > > > to 60-63 psi (bottom of the green arc) and just stays there, max oil
> temps
> > > > are 210'f. I have turned the pressure relief spring in to its limit
> (this
> > > > brought it up to its current reading). I am running a constant speed
> prop
> > > > on a 200HP lycoming and the oil pressure pickup (electric) is on the
> front
> > > > of the case on the other side of the govenor. The oil is 50
> weight....I
> > > > think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring. On other
> > > airplanes
> > > > I have flown I have not seen such a drastic drop of oil pressure as
> the
> > > oil
> > > > heats up...when I taxi in the pressure is 45 psi at 900 rpm's. Does
> the
> > > > location of the oil pressure transducer effect the pressure reading
> very
> > > > much ( I assume it does to a point) ? Oil quantity is fine. This is
> not
> > > > critical but I would feel better if the pressure was in the 80 psi
> range.
> > > >
> > > > THX
> > > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition /What if? |
> 2. Unable to hand prop because of no impulse coupling, so I was not
able
>to fly
> with a failed starter solenoid. Same with dead battery.
The lack of the impulse coupling is IMHO a NOT SO GOOG feature. If I had
known that, I would not have ordered the Lazar ingition. My engine arrived
a week ago, so now I have to live with this "handicap" of not being able to
handcranck the engine.. I just hope I will not get stuck at some lonesome
AP or isolated strip!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: Yoke question |
Yes they do fit just fine.
Phil, 80691
----- Original Message -----
From: David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 8:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Yoke question
>
> Hi listers,
>
> Can anyone tell me if the Avery yokes fit on the CP-214 pneumatic
squeezer?
> This is the style squeezer that Cleaveland sells, also ATP (sometimes
called a
> #114). Thanks
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: hand vs neumatic |
I purchased a used one with 2.5" Yoke from "The Yard" last October. I
haven't used it much, you do have to hold tight when riveting 1/8 rivets as
the tool twists in your hand. You also need an adjustable set like Avery
sells, or a set of dies with various thicknesses as there is no adjustment
on the tool for the amount of squeeze delivered. I agree it works great for
dimpling things but haven't finished my fuselage structure to try it out
upon. Look'en forward to that however. I set my compressor for 90 lbs. for
this tool, but it doesn't use much air. Go to www.yardstore.com or call
1-800-888-8991 in K.C. Good Luck, and for you fishermen out there, "and Keep
a Tight Line".
Marty in Brentwood, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: hand vs neumatic
>
> Last year in the oshkosh flymarket $320 with 4" yoke, rebuild.
>
> Gert
>
> CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 7/15/2000 9:26:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
> >
> > << Chris,
> >
> > extra 600 plus dollars? No sir, but it is an extra $300 over the hand
> > squeezer. Leave out the bandsaw ($20 die grinder and cut off wheel
work
> > excellent in it's place) and you have broken even with a much more
useful
> > tool.
> > >>
> >
> > Where do you get a pnemanitic squezer for only 300 dollars. Or is it
300
> > more then a hand one. The cheapest one I saw was about 600 dollars.
Next I
> > would still need the hand as I like not having the compressor running
all the
> > time since I have neighbors who HATE it. Also you would need 2 jaws
for it
> > as you need up to the 3" for a rocket. You dont need a band saw when
> > building a F1 rocket.
> >
> > chris
> >
>
> --
>
> Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
> any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
Subject: | RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
Hi George... My -8A came together with out any major problems also, but that
canopy really had me concerned, I was so afraid of cracking it when
attaching the plexi to the steel frame. And that's exactly what I did, twice
when pop riveting the plexi to the frame prior to fitting the skirt. They
call for 3 rivets on each side as temps to hold the canopy in place. I must
have cut that plexi 20 times fitting it to the proper dimensions. If your
holes are not drilled exactly at 90 deg, a stress happens when you squeeze
the pop. My cracks were one inch long going up which I stop drilled, so my
skirt will cover that portion. Several suggestions I've learned from others
I'll comment on;
1. Drill thru both plexi and frame and install No. 6 screws w/ capnuts on
the plexi part 21 holes on each side.
2. Proseal any irregularities where plexi meets steel (Charlie Kuss)
3. Mixed in the bag of pop rivets for the canopy were steel shanked rivets
mixed in. Use magnet to separate.
4. I talked to the maunf of the canopy in Ohio, his comments were to not use
pop rivets..
Incidentally, my skirt fit like a glove, no need to cut it in half, as so
many have done. Seems like all these "big" deals on this project turn out
really well, that's why so many build again I guess.
Regards,
Doug Gardner 8A #80717 Palm Harbor Fla
-----Original Message-----
From: Sally and George [mailto:aeronut58(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
Okay, I'm being paranoid, but please help.
I'm fitting the canopy and have trimmed to the lines scribed on the canopy
at Van's.
T= Subscription: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition /What if? |
Not to long ago in one of the "What's New" sections of one of the aviation mags
I
get there was a blurb that Unison is now producing the Lasar system with impulse
couplings. This would be a must have feature if I were to use the Lasar system.
I
am leaning towards Jeff Rose's system or Lightspeeds. More bang for the buck and
I
keep one of my impulse coupled mags if the electronic fails.
Also one of the local 6A's Lasar failed after 15 hours. Could not get his engine
to start one morning and finally called Unison. They sent him two new mags and
said it was something about a failed relay. Another local builder who is not
flying yet called Unison and they sent him two new mags without question after
he
mentioned the above 15 hour failure. It would seem that Unison is having problems
with the system and is not telling anybody except those that call.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A still flying with old tractor ignition.
lothar klingmuller wrote:
> The lack of the impulse coupling is IMHO a NOT SO GOOG feature. If I had
> known that, I would not have ordered the Lazar ingition. My engine arrived
> a week ago, so now I have to live with this "handicap" of not being able to
> handcranck the engine.. I just hope I will not get stuck at some lonesome
> AP or isolated strip!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Subject: | RVList Badges - - - Oshkosh Table |
PLEASE don't anyone send me any money. Purchasing tickets to the banquet
is to be thru Barbara at Vans. After settling with her you pick up your
tickets at Vans Booth at Oshkosh. Just be aware that for years there has
only been 300 tickets to be had. And more and more people are building
these great machines than ever, so logic seems to say that they will sell
out earlier each year.
While on the subject, Here is the list of people I have down for the
Banquet.
1. Tom Clark
2. Joe Morin
3. Frank Sykes
4. Kevin Horton
5. Al Mojzisik
6. Louise Coats
7. Maria Styles/Heleborus
8. Len Leggette
9. Jack Fromm
10.Larry Bowen
11.Jim PIckrell
12.Jeff Orear
13.Steve Eberhart
14.Larry Helming
15. Steve Davis
When you get to the lawn area between 6pm and 7pm when we go into the
banquet, look for the 'RV List' Group hanging out on the East side of the
group, this is the side closest to the lake. I hope to be able to fashion
a sign or helium balloon or something to indicate that area for the List
people. Once inside we can only really talk to our immediate neighbors at
the table.
If I didn't get your name on the list, let me know.
Cecil Hatfield
>
> Cecil
>
> I'm sorry about the delay getting back to you but have been busy
> trying to straighten out what is left of the badges for Oshkosh. Yours
went
> out in the mail today you should have them in a few days, please let me
know
> when you receive them. I would like to get two seats for the Oshkosh
dinner
> but I think it's to late to send you the money, I'm good for it if you
do
> not mind I will pay you when I get there, if thats a problem I
understand but
> would love to attend.
>
> Thanks
> Steve Davis
> The Panel Pilot
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
It helps to make holes bigger than fasteners. Not just for install, but due
to expansion. Use washer under buck tail to make up for larger hole, and use
proseal. The proseal is a great adhesive and allows plastic to float.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 11:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
>
> Hi George... My -8A came together with out any major problems also, but
that
> canopy really had me concerned, I was so afraid of cracking it when
> attaching the plexi to the steel frame. And that's exactly what I did,
twice
> when pop riveting the plexi to the frame prior to fitting the skirt. They
> call for 3 rivets on each side as temps to hold the canopy in place. I
must
> have cut that plexi 20 times fitting it to the proper dimensions. If your
> holes are not drilled exactly at 90 deg, a stress happens when you squeeze
> the pop. My cracks were one inch long going up which I stop drilled, so my
> skirt will cover that portion. Several suggestions I've learned from
others
> I'll comment on;
> 1. Drill thru both plexi and frame and install No. 6 screws w/ capnuts on
> the plexi part 21 holes on each side.
> 2. Proseal any irregularities where plexi meets steel (Charlie Kuss)
> 3. Mixed in the bag of pop rivets for the canopy were steel shanked rivets
> mixed in. Use magnet to separate.
> 4. I talked to the maunf of the canopy in Ohio, his comments were to not
use
> pop rivets..
>
> Incidentally, my skirt fit like a glove, no need to cut it in half, as so
> many have done. Seems like all these "big" deals on this project turn out
> really well, that's why so many build again I guess.
> Regards,
> Doug Gardner 8A #80717 Palm Harbor Fla
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sally and George [mailto:aeronut58(at)hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:21 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
>
>
> Okay, I'm being paranoid, but please help.
>
> I'm fitting the canopy and have trimmed to the lines scribed on the canopy
> at Van's.
>
> T= Subscription: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
Subject: | Re: LASAR Electronic Ignition /What if? |
The LASAR ignition systems that come installed on the Lycomings DO NOT
have the low voltage starting problem and can be hand cranked. They had
to fix that problem to get their spam can STC from the FAA. If they are
having a problem with some of their magnetos, it's not enough to worry
Lycoming, Diamond Aircraft, Piper or Cessna (or Van's). Lycoming and
Unison (LASAR) have teamed up to produce and engine/prop control
system, EPiC that is similar to Continental's FADEC with an all-in-one
engine control lever, but cannot be retrofitted (or so they say!). for
a quick overview, see Private Pilot, 8/2000, pg. 74.
LightSpeed installation instructions (1998) specify a non-impulse
coupled magneto. This is a problem, and I will be replacing my
LightSpeed system with the LASAR when finances permit.
I have no first-hand info on the Jeff Rose system.
Boyd
>
>
> Not to long ago in one of the "What's New" sections of one of the aviation mags
I
> get there was a blurb that Unison is now producing the Lasar system with impulse
> couplings. This would be a must have feature if I were to use the Lasar system.
I
> am leaning towards Jeff Rose's system or Lightspeeds. More bang for the buck
and I
> keep one of my impulse coupled mags if the electronic fails.
>
>snip
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A still flying with old tractor ignition.
>
> lothar klingmuller wrote:
>
> > The lack of the impulse coupling is IMHO a NOT SO GOOG feature. If I had
> > known that, I would not have ordered the Lazar ingition. My engine arrived
> > a week ago, so now I have to live with this "handicap" of not being able to
> > handcranck the engine.. I just hope I will not get stuck at some lonesome
> > AP or isolated strip!!
>
> o
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition |
Local Lycoming rep hangs out in Seattle. Lyc sent him here to inspect the
very minor shipping damage to my new Lycoming. New rocker boxes. Shipping
crate is inadequate IMHO.
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Laser Electronic Ignition
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
>
> I really can't add anything that hasn't already been said except to say
that
> I ordered this system for my O-360, which I just picked up from Van's on
> Tuesday (with a BIG dent in the left forward rocker box cover!). Ordered
it
> for most of the same reasons Randy did. Anybody know if there is a
Lycoming
> rep in the Seattle area?
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591
> on the gear, about to mount the wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
I am not being critical of anything Van did, just reporting on what several
ancient builders and A&Ps said when I mentioned the pop rivets holding the
plexiglass -- "Pop rivets in plexiglass???"
I just had the windshield in my Debonair replaced. Screws #6, I think, in
3/16 holes. Installation instructions from Cee Bailey, maker of handmade
plexi parts, warns against use of several chemicals, cleaners etc as they
destroy plexi - making it crack. Vinyl is especially bad, they say, and a
vinyl glareshield can crack the windshield in less than a year. This
probably explains why my Deb had cracked windshield when I bought it in 1992
and again this year.
I don't know if Proseal is okay or not. Bailey's supplied some very sticky
black stuff.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Noel <bnoel(at)ausa.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
>
> It helps to make holes bigger than fasteners. Not just for install, but
due
> to expansion. Use washer under buck tail to make up for larger hole, and
use
> proseal. The proseal is a great adhesive and allows plastic to float.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 11:18 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi George... My -8A came together with out any major problems also, but
> that
> > canopy really had me concerned, I was so afraid of cracking it when
> > attaching the plexi to the steel frame. And that's exactly what I did,
> twice
> > when pop riveting the plexi to the frame prior to fitting the skirt.
They
> > call for 3 rivets on each side as temps to hold the canopy in place. I
> must
> > have cut that plexi 20 times fitting it to the proper dimensions. If
your
> > holes are not drilled exactly at 90 deg, a stress happens when you
squeeze
> > the pop. My cracks were one inch long going up which I stop drilled, so
my
> > skirt will cover that portion. Several suggestions I've learned from
> others
> > I'll comment on;
> > 1. Drill thru both plexi and frame and install No. 6 screws w/ capnuts
on
> > the plexi part 21 holes on each side.
> > 2. Proseal any irregularities where plexi meets steel (Charlie Kuss)
> > 3. Mixed in the bag of pop rivets for the canopy were steel shanked
rivets
> > mixed in. Use magnet to separate.
> > 4. I talked to the maunf of the canopy in Ohio, his comments were to not
> use
> > pop rivets..
> >
> > Incidentally, my skirt fit like a glove, no need to cut it in half, as
so
> > many have done. Seems like all these "big" deals on this project turn
out
> > really well, that's why so many build again I guess.
> > Regards,
> > Doug Gardner 8A #80717 Palm Harbor Fla
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Sally and George [mailto:aeronut58(at)hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:21 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
> >
> >
> >
> > Okay, I'm being paranoid, but please help.
> >
> > I'm fitting the canopy and have trimmed to the lines scribed on the
canopy
> > at Van's.
> >
> > T= Subscription: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
Christopher Huey wrote:
> I think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring.
I don't think you understand the function of the relief spring. Okay, one
of us doesn't!
Hal Kempthorne (I'm not sure I understand all I know about it.)
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
In a message dated 7/16/00 7:55:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
<< I am not being critical of anything Van did, just reporting on what
several
ancient builders and A&Ps said when I mentioned the pop rivets holding the
plexiglass -- "Pop rivets in plexiglass???" >>
Hal's exactly right. You're running a risk by putting pop rivets (even the
soft ones Van supplies for the canopies) into plexi. Mark Friedricks, as I
recall, suggested oversizing the holes in the plexi, then countersinking,
then using #6 tinnermans between the rivets and the plexi in areas where you
have to use pop rivets. This distributes the loads much better than the pop
rivets alone.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Here is the revised Table List. Am I up to date?
Cecil
1. Tom Clark
2. Joe Morin
3. Frank Sykes
4. Kevin Horton, RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
5. Al Mojzisik
6. Louise Coats, (New Zealand)
7. Maria Styles/Heleborus, (Australia)
8. Len Leggette, RV-8A North Carolina
9. Jack Fromm
10. Larry Bowen
11. Jim PIckrell, RV-8
12. Jeff Orear
13. Steve Weddle
14. Steve Davis, Panel Pilot
15. Steve Davis Friend
16. Bruce Knoll
17. Bruce Knoll friend
18. Les Rowles, Traralgon Australia.
19.Tom Velvick, rv-6a
20. Kellen Velvick
21. John Fasching, RV6A Salida CO
22. Jim Farmer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
With the help of two good fellow RV-8 builders I was able to fit and drill
the canopy on this weekend. Highly recommend the drilling technique offered
by Scott McDaniels in his 31 July 1999 post about drilling the frame with
#40 bits, then drilling the canopy into the hole already in the frame. The
trick is to use masking tape lightly held on the frame, then clamp the
canopy on. The canopy/frame contact point comes out as a thin line on the
tape. Use this to mark the positions of the holes, drill, then put the
canopy back on. Worked like a champ.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (finish kit)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
>
> In a message dated 7/16/00 7:55:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> kempthornes(at)home.com writes:
>
> << I am not being critical of anything Van did, just reporting on what
> several
> ancient builders and A&Ps said when I mentioned the pop rivets holding
the
> plexiglass -- "Pop rivets in plexiglass???" >>
>
>
>
> Hal's exactly right. You're running a risk by putting pop rivets (even
the
> soft ones Van supplies for the canopies) into plexi. Mark Friedricks, as
I
> recall, suggested oversizing the holes in the plexi, then countersinking,
> then using #6 tinnermans between the rivets and the plexi in areas where
you
> have to use pop rivets. This distributes the loads much better than the
pop
> rivets alone.
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
Hal,
Lycoming produces different tension springs to adjust for installation
differences. The engine shop at my airport had part numbers for atleast 3
spring tensions. Also I have been told you can use washers (even with the
screw type adjustment) but the preferred way is to change out the springs.
I can tell you with complete certainty that when you turn the adjustment
screw clockwise the oil pressure goes up. I am going to look into this
subject further...(call Lycoming, company that made the pressure sender,
etc....) and will be glad to share any info I learn.
Sincerely,
Chris
----------
> From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
> Date: Sunday, July 16, 2000 6:52 PM
>
>
> Christopher Huey wrote:
> > I think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring.
>
> I don't think you understand the function of the relief spring. Okay,
one
> of us doesn't!
>
> Hal Kempthorne (I'm not sure I understand all I know about it.)
> 2578 Elliot Court
> Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
> 408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
> RV6a N7HK 99%
> 1965 Debonair for sale!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | N-Number Application |
I'm ready to get my N-number and I've reviewed the archives. I believe the
process is to call 405-954-3116 and find out what's available. Then I send
in a letter (Randy's form) and $10. I did not see any mention in the
archives of an FAA application form nor a bill of sale. I have a bill of
sale from Van's and I assume it is required along with the application
letter.
If anyone can offer any words of wisdom I'd appreciate it!
Dennis Persyk getting closer
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Listers
For all you brake guru's........
I departed TLH this morning flew for about 1 hour, returned landed
everything was great.
About 2 hours later I was going up to Quincy,FL to hang out with the local
airport bum's.
I get in the plane, go through the RV ritual of getting everything in order,
put my feet on the
brakes prior to starting the engine and the right pedel goes down about
three times as far as normal.
I peel myself out of the plane ( heat index112 degree's ), and start looking
for something obvious.
Well just my luck, nothing looks out of wack. Brake reservoir full, no leaks
anywhere.
The local guy's say air has infiltrated the system. I'm not sure how this
could
happen.......but what do I know!
I guess it's either air or the pedel cylinder has gone belly up.
Anyone have any idea's or similar experience?
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wayne and Cindy <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
Subject: | RV-8A Aileron Misalignment |
Dear RV-8A Quickbuilders:
I have run into a problem and wonder if any other QBers have found same, if
so, how did you fix it? As you know the aileron bracket and hinge is all
prepunched, both rivet and bolts holes, as well as the rivet holes in the
rear spar. Therefore there is no way to adjust or align aileron placement.
My ailerons are both exactly 3/16" too low. This leaves a larger than
normal gap at the leading edge and a very noticeable step-off at the flap.
The only 'fix' I can come up with is to install new aileron brackets (not
predrilled) and move the bolt holes accordingly. (By the way, I did send
back to Van's to get the newly designed flap braces, so alignment here was
not a problem; ie. the flaps are correctly positioned). Thanks.
Wayne Williams
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | In Line Filters? |
I have decided to install in-line filters from each tank.
I have a couple of filters that Spruce sells that use a
hose and clamp over a barbed tube for connection. I have
looked for a fitting that could connected to the aluminum
tubing with barbs for the filter hose end. No luck thus far.
I am assuming that it is not a wise move to slip the hose over
the aluminum tubing with a clamp to secure it. Or Is It?
Anyone have any experience in this area?
All ideas welcome!
Good Day to You!
Denny- RV-6
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | N-Number Application |
RE: RV-List: N-Number Application
"Dennis Persyk" wrote:
Date: | Jul 16, 2000 |
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: N-Number Application |
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
>
> I'm ready to get my N-number and I've reviewed the archives. I believe the
> process is to call 405-954-3116 and find out what's available. Then I send
> in a letter (Randy's form) and $10. I did not see any mention in the
> archives of an FAA application form nor a bill of sale. I have a bill of
> sale from Van's and I assume it is required along with the application
> letter.
> If anyone can offer any words of wisdom I'd appreciate it!
The info you need is here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/register.html
Hope you get your favored number!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http;//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
Adjusting your relief spring will make the release pressure higher IF THE
OIL PUMP can provide the higher pressure.
Why can't the oil pump provide higher pressures??
1. The pump is worn letting pressure escape.
2. The bearing clearances are worn so that the pump cannot build up pressure
3. The oil is TOO HOT so that the pump cannot overcome both the wear in the
pump and the wear in the bearings.
If you have low pressure at idle, turning up the relief valve will NOT
correct this.
Generally, when the engine is cool, the oil pressure gage tells you the
pressure setting. If it remains there at cruise then your engine clearances
are good. If the cruise pressure drops when the oil is hot, then you can try
increasing the pressure, but I am willing to say that it will increase the
cold pressures but the hot pressure is limited by the pump and bearing
clearances.
I even put in a High volume oil pump to quiet some noisy lifters in a Chevy
V-8. Helped but didn't cure the loose front cam bearing.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
>
> Hal,
>
> Lycoming produces different tension springs to adjust for installation
> differences. The engine shop at my airport had part numbers for atleast 3
> spring tensions. Also I have been told you can use washers (even with the
> screw type adjustment) but the preferred way is to change out the springs.
> I can tell you with complete certainty that when you turn the adjustment
> screw clockwise the oil pressure goes up. I am going to look into this
> subject further...(call Lycoming, company that made the pressure sender,
> etc....) and will be glad to share any info I learn.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Chris
>
> ----------
> > From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
> > Date: Sunday, July 16, 2000 6:52 PM
> >
> >
> > Christopher Huey wrote:
> > > I think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring.
> >
> > I don't think you understand the function of the relief spring. Okay,
> one
> > of us doesn't!
> >
> > Hal Kempthorne (I'm not sure I understand all I know about it.)
> > 2578 Elliot Court
> > Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
> > 408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
> > RV6a N7HK 99%
> > 1965 Debonair for sale!
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: In Line Filters? |
Denny,
I have installed K&N 'billet" fuel filters in my RV-4 (not flying yet).
These filters are aluminum and have a 37 degree, 3/8 tube flare on each end.
Mine were about $50 each. I don't like the idea of using rubber tubing and
hose clamps in an aircraft fuel system.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Date: Sunday, July 16, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: In Line Filters?
>
>I have decided to install in-line filters from each tank.
>I have a couple of filters that Spruce sells that use a
>hose and clamp over a barbed tube for connection. I have
>looked for a fitting that could connected to the aluminum
>tubing with barbs for the filter hose end. No luck thus far.
>
>I am assuming that it is not a wise move to slip the hose over
>the aluminum tubing with a clamp to secure it. Or Is It?
>
>Anyone have any experience in this area?
>
>All ideas welcome!
>
>
>Good Day to You!
>Denny- RV-6
>Lebanon, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: In Line Filters? |
You need to get a Parker tubing beader to do it right.
Why are you going to a non-standard fuel system? One which the FAA will not
approve for certified? There is a reason for the gascolator and not a filter
system. Filter the gas as you put it in on the ground not when you take it
out in the air.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Harjehausen" <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 9:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: In Line Filters?
>
> I have decided to install in-line filters from each tank.
> I have a couple of filters that Spruce sells that use a
> hose and clamp over a barbed tube for connection. I have
> looked for a fitting that could connected to the aluminum
> tubing with barbs for the filter hose end. No luck thus far.
>
> I am assuming that it is not a wise move to slip the hose over
> the aluminum tubing with a clamp to secure it. Or Is It?
>
> Anyone have any experience in this area?
>
> All ideas welcome!
>
>
> Good Day to You!
> Denny- RV-6
> Lebanon, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Sounds to me like you had an air bubble in just the right place and it entered
the pressure side of the system on your last stop. The only recourse is to bleed
the brakes again.
Gary Zilik
Craig Hiers wrote:
>
> Listers
>
> For all you brake guru's........
>
> I departed TLH this morning flew for about 1 hour, returned landed
> everything was great.
>
> About 2 hours later I was going up to Quincy,FL to hang out with the local
> airport bum's.
>
> I get in the plane, go through the RV ritual of getting everything in order,
> put my feet on the
> brakes prior to starting the engine and the right pedel goes down about
> three times as far as normal.
> I peel myself out of the plane ( heat index112 degree's ), and start looking
> for something obvious.
> Well just my luck, nothing looks out of wack. Brake reservoir full, no leaks
> anywhere.
>
> The local guy's say air has infiltrated the system. I'm not sure how this
> could
> happen.......but what do I know!
>
> I guess it's either air or the pedel cylinder has gone belly up.
>
> Anyone have any idea's or similar experience?
>
> Craig Hiers
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
All,
I think you'll find that the oil temp transducer will not work if it's at the
end of a hose. The oil out there is going to be kind of cool, especially without
any flow. Also if the transducer is no bigger than my temp unit, it will
probably be less prone to failure when mounted on the engine than the hoses and
connections.
Dave , RV6 Waiting for the DAR
Pat Hatch wrote:
>
> Chris:
>
> I agree with Jerry Springer and Eustace that the transducer should be
> mounted on the firewall, probably even the small one that you have. I
> should have clarified this in my message...I mounted mine on the engine some
> 10 years ago before I knew better. And it is on my list of things "to do."
> Same goes for the fuel pressure transducer and oil temp. Van sells a small
> manifold for this purpose that mounts on the firewall and has three ports
> for transducers. Probably the way to go.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
> RV-6, Fuselage
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:50 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
>
> >
> > Jerry,
> >
> > Maybe I am confusing terminology. The gauge is a combination Westach oil
> > pressure/temp gauge (seems to work/ got it cheap) and the "transducer"??
> is
> > alittle bigger than a .45 cal handgun casing which screwed into the case
> > with the leads attached. It is a electric gauge and the leads("wires")
> > certainly seem flexible.......certainly more flexible then the steel
> > braided line for my fuel flow (attached to the flow divider). This is the
> > way the instructions depicted it......is this a bad set-up??? Seems
> > airworthy.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
> > > Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 3:01 PM
> > >
> > >
> > > It is true that pressure well very from front to back. My concern here
> > > is that you or anyone is mounting the transducer to the engine itself
> > > this is not a good thing. I know that lot of people have done it
> > > and have had no problems but the posibility is there that the vibration
> > > can cause fatigue and break the transducer off. Most applacations
> > > are installed using a flex line to the transducer mounted on the
> > > firewall in some type of manifold or bracket to hold it.
> > > I have seen what is left of a Questar Venture after the oil
> > > transducer broke off, not a pretty sight.
> > >
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Christopher:
> > > >
> > > > Your readings sound about right to me given my experience on the 0-320
> > in my
> > > > RV-4. I mounted my transducer on a port near the pressure relief
> > spring on
> > > > top of the engine. I did this for convenience (after counsulting with
> > > > Lycoming). I believe the technician said the oil pressure can vary
> > about 10
> > > > psi from back to front of the engine with the highest reading in the
> > > > accessory section near the oil pump. My oil pressure reading is about
> > 5 psi
> > > > lower than normal probably due to the location of the transducer. You
> > might
> > > > check with Lycoming.
> > > >
> > > > I don't know why, but my engine came straight from Lycoming with this
> > port
> > > > (a small allen plug), while I have yet to see another 0-320 with this
> > port
> > > > near the pressure relief valve.
> > > >
> > > > Pat Hatch
> > > > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
> > > > RV-6, Fuselage.
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
> > > > To:
> > > > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 11:49 AM
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Oil pressure
> > > >
> >
> > > > >
> > > > > Maybe I can be enlightened on this subject: I have a relatively new
> > > > > overhauled engine, after engine start the idle oil pressure is 55-60
> > psi
> > > > > (OAT is 80-90'f). During take-off the oil pressure is 75 psi but
> > after a
> > > > > few minutes (when the oil has heated up to 180'f it slowly begins to
> > fall
> > > > > to 60-63 psi (bottom of the green arc) and just stays there, max oil
> > temps
> > > > > are 210'f. I have turned the pressure relief spring in to its limit
> > (this
> > > > > brought it up to its current reading). I am running a constant speed
> > prop
> > > > > on a 200HP lycoming and the oil pressure pickup (electric) is on the
> > front
> > > > > of the case on the other side of the govenor. The oil is 50
> > weight....I
> > > > > think I am going to try to get a stronger relief spring. On other
> > > > airplanes
> > > > > I have flown I have not seen such a drastic drop of oil pressure as
> > the
> > > > oil
> > > > > heats up...when I taxi in the pressure is 45 psi at 900 rpm's. Does
> > the
> > > > > location of the oil pressure transducer effect the pressure reading
> > very
> > > > > much ( I assume it does to a point) ? Oil quantity is fine. This is
> > not
> > > > > critical but I would feel better if the pressure was in the 80 psi
> > range.
> > > > >
> > > > > THX
> > > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
In a message dated 7/16/00 8:15:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org
writes:
<<
Why can't the oil pump provide higher pressures??
1. The pump is worn letting pressure escape.
2. The bearing clearances are worn so that the pump cannot build up pressure
3. The oil is TOO HOT so that the pump cannot overcome both the wear in the
pump and the wear in the bearings. >>
OR Possibly The GAGE isn`t accurate...........Fred LaForge RV-4
-----------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Tool Misconceptions - Squeezers - Long |
In talking w/ Tom Green & Scott McDaniels at the factory &
the prototype shop last week I learned that Van's is
currently shipping approximately 200 sub kits, the
equivalent of 50 complete airplanes, per month. After
reading all the recent posts on squeezers, having rebuilt a
number of squeezers for users and answering numerous
questions for others, I decided to post the following
primarily for the new builders. Hopefully it will prove
useful information for all. By way of explanation, the term
"production quality" refers to a tool that a major aerospace
company would put on the production line.
FACTS:
* Van's should be commended for their efforts at
minimizing the tools required by their builders. It is only
w/ the inception of the CNC tooling & the RV8 kits that
tools such as right angle drills been required or highly
recommended.
* If you talk w/ Ken Scott, he'll tell you don't need &
he wouldn't buy a pneumatic squeezer to build any RV kit. If
you talk w/ Scott McDaniels, he'll tell you that it's the
best investment that you could make when building a kit.
Both are correct.
* I've never seen the equivalent of a pair of vice grips
or crescent wrenches in the production aircraft tool
business. Each tool is made for a specific purpose. The
weight and balance of a tool are strongly considered.
Likewise, the Tatco hand squeezer, the Avery hand squeezer,
and the pneumatic squeezer each have their specific
strengths and weaknesses.
* The Tatco hand squeezer is a production quality light
to medium duty tool w/ a maximum capacity of a 1/8" rivet.
Weight wise, it is a light tool to use, the yokes are
approximately 1/3 - 1/2 the size of pneumatic squeezer
yokes. It has the ability to fit into places that pneumatic
squeezer yokes cannot. You will start to get yoke deflection
with 1/8" rivets on yokes that have a 3" reach or greater,
although I have a Tatco yoke that has a 4.5" gap & a 10"
reach that will not deflect :). It is the most economical of
the squeezers.
* The Avery hand rivet squeezer is a finely crafted tool
with a maximum capacity of a 5/32" rivet. It accepts the
pneumatic squeezer yokes. It is longer, heavier, and
provides more leverage than the Tatco hand squeezer. I don't
know if Bob markets these tools to Boeing or other
companies, but it is certainly of the quality to do so. It
is also more expensive than the Tatco hand squeezer. I don't
know of any place this tool would work that a pneumatic
squeezer with an equivalent yoke would not. The advantage of
this tool seems to be the leverage over the Tatco & the cost
compared to a pneumatic.
* The most common pneumatic squeezer, often referred to
as the CP-214, provides 3000 lbs. of force & is designed to
squeeze up to a 1/8" rivet. This tool has been made by a
number of companies and all the different models are
production quality tools. With few exceptions, the parts are
interchangeable between all the different models. The yokes
should all be interchangeable. There is no torque with this
tool, all the force is in a single direction. Contrary to an
earlier post, you shouldn't have to hold it very tightly to
squeeze a rivet. Avery, Cleaveland, and I get our new
squeezers from the same company, and that company sells
directly to Boeing and others. The disadvantage of this tool
is the initial cost. The advantages of this tool are
numerous, including the fact that you will never lose money
on a pneumatic squeezer - if you ever decide to sell it.
MISCONCEPTIONS:
Good Deals: Good deals are out there and you can
sometimes find them. Looking for the "Good Deal" is also an
American obsession, and if you are not intimately familiar
w/ aircraft tools you can easily be fooled. But Oshkosh is
coming up so those in the market might take note of the
following:
* The pneumatic squeezer is packed with grease. The
piston is greased and there are a large number of needle
bearings inside the tool that are greased. It takes an
average of four (4) hours to disassemble, clean, check, and
rebuild a pneumatic squeezer. Labor and parts are expensive,
so what are some common ways to get around this?
Pump the tool full of oil. This loosens old, hardened
grease & allows the tool to function - for a while. Offer
the tool in an "As Is" condition. Offer a 30 day money back
guarantee. Offer a liberal exchange policy. Sooner or later
the buyer will find a tool they think is working great &
keep it.
* What to look for if you're out shopping:
Take the yoke off the tool. The cam, bearings, and wedge
inside the two side plates should be clean of all debris and
freshly greased. You just can't clean the tool properly with
a Q tip, you have to completely take it apart. Look for an
abundance of oil indicating the tool was sticking while
operating and oiled to loosen it up. Look at the back of the
tool between the air fitting and the body. Is it clean
indicating that the tool has been completely disassembled
and reassembled? Look at the screws on the back of the
squeezer. Are they & the holes they sit in clean? These are
some basics.
PERSONAL OPINION:
If there is one failing in our industry, it is in educating
builders about the different tools, how to use them, and
what the options are. Each of the above listed tools has
built a number of RV's. One could ask why, if you've just
spent $20,000 on a quick build kit, you would hesitate to
buy a pneumatic squeezer. Conversely, it takes about 3
seconds to set a rivet with a bucking bar and rivet gun.
Bottom line, all the choices are good ones and it's up to
the individual to make the choice that's best for them.
Personally I'd rather hear more posts about builder's
experiences, including their retrospective, constructive
recommendations based on that experience, than individuals
who give a single minded or absolute response.
Blue Skies!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: N-Number Application |
Dennis,
If you are reserving your 'N' number then you only need the letter and the
$10. When you are going to asctually register your aircraft then you need
the Bill of Sale and the application for registration.
If, after July 28th, you haven't decided, or found, your requested 'N'
number then drop me a line here and I will run it through the computer data
base for you. Sorry it can't be until then but I am still on vacation and
not neat my terminal.
Mike Robertson
Rv-8A
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: N-Number Application
>Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 20:13:40 -0500
>
>
>I'm ready to get my N-number and I've reviewed the archives. I believe the
>process is to call 405-954-3116 and find out what's available. Then I send
>in a letter (Randy's form) and $10. I did not see any mention in the
>archives of an FAA application form nor a bill of sale. I have a bill of
>sale from Van's and I assume it is required along with the application
>letter.
>If anyone can offer any words of wisdom I'd appreciate it!
>
>Dennis Persyk getting closer
>Hampshire, IL C38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
Sounds like there is probably some misunderstanding here. The typical oil
PRESSURE transducer is roughly cylindrical, about 1.25" dia. and the same
high, with a pipe thread nipple coming out one end. The oil TEMPERATURE
transducer is usually a bullet sized/shaped thing that screws down into the
engine with only the top hex portion and lead terminals sticking out. What
Chris is describing sounds like the latter. I've never seen a combination
transducer such as you describe but if its like a typical oil TEMP
transducer then it would be correct to install it in the engine. And as Dave
said it wouldn't read right if it was off on a hose.
Chris are you sure you didn't get mixed up that since this is a combination
GAUGE it isn't still supposed to have two transducers? Or is this really
called out in the instructions as a combination transducer as well as gauge?
Jus' tryin' to help! :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
>
> All,
> I think you'll find that the oil temp transducer will not work if it's at
the
> end of a hose. The oil out there is going to be kind of cool, especially
without
> any flow. Also if the transducer is no bigger than my temp unit, it will
> probably be less prone to failure when mounted on the engine than the
hoses and
> connections.
>
> Dave , RV6 Waiting for the DAR
>
> Pat Hatch wrote:
>
> >
> > Chris:
> >
> > I agree with Jerry Springer and Eustace that the transducer should be
> > mounted on the firewall, probably even the small one that you have. I
> > should have clarified this in my message...I mounted mine on the engine
some
> > 10 years ago before I knew better. And it is on my list of things "to
do."
> > Same goes for the fuel pressure transducer and oil temp. Van sells a
small
> > manifold for this purpose that mounts on the firewall and has three
ports
> > for transducers. Probably the way to go.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
> > RV-6, Fuselage
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > From: "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 6:50 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
> >
> > >
> > > Jerry,
> > >
> > > Maybe I am confusing terminology. The gauge is a combination Westach
oil
> > > pressure/temp gauge (seems to work/ got it cheap) and the
"transducer"??
> > is
> > > alittle bigger than a .45 cal handgun casing which screwed into the
case
> > > with the leads attached. It is a electric gauge and the leads("wires")
> > > certainly seem flexible.......certainly more flexible then the steel
> > > braided line for my fuel flow (attached to the flow divider). This is
the
> > > way the instructions depicted it......is this a bad set-up??? Seems
> > > airworthy.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > ----------
> > > > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
> > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
> > > > Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 3:01 PM
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > It is true that pressure well very from front to back. My concern
here
> > > > is that you or anyone is mounting the transducer to the engine
itself
> > > > this is not a good thing. I know that lot of people have done it
> > > > and have had no problems but the posibility is there that the
vibration
> > > > can cause fatigue and break the transducer off. Most applacations
> > > > are installed using a flex line to the transducer mounted on the
> > > > firewall in some type of manifold or bracket to hold it.
> > > > I have seen what is left of a Questar Venture after the oil
> > > > transducer broke off, not a pretty sight.
> > > >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
In a message dated 7/16/00 10:02:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Why can't the oil pump provide higher pressures??
1. The pump is worn letting pressure escape.
2. The bearing clearances are worn so that the pump cannot build up pressure
3. The oil is TOO HOT so that the pump cannot overcome both the wear in the
pump and the wear in the bearings. >>
OR Possibly The GAGE isn`t accurate. >>
Or the oil is too low a viscosity. Multivis will generally read lower that
straight weight 100W.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
>recall, suggested oversizing the holes in the plexi, then countersinking,
>then using #6 tinnermans between the rivets and the plexi in areas where you
Please pardon my ignorance. What's a tinnerman?
I heard this same story but it also included some tubing used as bushings on the
#6 screws to add some expansion and contraction space. Anyone know what size
tubing to use? It was my understanding that the fuel line that R/C airplanes
use is idea for this application but I have no idea where to get some.
Thx,
- Jim
RV-8AQ ( wiring and more wiring )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
> >A couple of people told me to
> >line up on section lines but that only gives N S E W (and are the section
> >lines true?) Must be some way to use GPS but that's only going to be
> >accurate in a calm wind, right?
Your quite right, you can use your GPS to do this job.
Some time ago I put together a short paper describing how to determine
TAS from three GPS runs in different directions. By solving the vector
triangles for these runs and assuming the wind direction and speed is
unchanged it is possible to resolve the TAS. But, to answer your
question, a by-product of this calculation is that the 'true' headings
for each run can also be resolved (that is unless you are flying in a
constant yaw). These can be compared with the compass heading to
prepare a deviation chart.
I have spelled this out in this paper and suggest you take a look. Kevin
Horton has this paper on his website although I am not sure of the web
address.
That said, a compass swing on the ground would be quicker, easier,
cheaper to do; and if you've already got the GPS how often will you be
looking at the compass?
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
George . . . trust me, the canopy will drop into place as you properly trim
it. This is sort of hard to describe, but for the front portion of the
canopy I made a "guide" using a piece of angle with a hole drilled in it to
hold a marker. I run the guide along the metal skin, with the marker
leaving a mark onto the canopy. In effect, this makes the mark on the
canopy perfectly parallel to the contour of the metal skin. I then trim
halfway to the mark. As for trimming, for big stuff I used the die grinder,
however from another posting I learned that a hand operated belt sander does
a good job to. For the "finer" stuff I use the edge scraping tool I think
from Avery. Anyway, I started with about an inch clearance from the canopy
to the frame/roll bar . . . after triming things down, particularly the
front, this puppy sits there perfectly. I was amazed at how much material I
had to remove--not too much in the back, a bit in the front, but maybe 1/2"
on both sides. Good luck, you'll see that it will work.
Rick Jory, RV8A QB
-----Original Message-----
From: Sally and George <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 4:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check
>
>Okay, I'm being paranoid, but please help.
>
>I'm fitting the canopy and have trimmed to the lines scribed on the canopy
>at Van's.
>
>The front of the canopy is the prescribed 3 1/4" back from the reference
>point, per the drawings. The fit is nearly perfect at front, rear and
>sides, but the top is about 1" too high for the roll bar to which it's to
be
>rivetted.
>
>Obviously the thing has to be lowered. I could cut some off the bottom or
I
>could move the canopy to the rear, but I'm concerned that there's that much
>clearance when I've reached the line Van's says is about as far as I should
>go. Everything else on this plane has been pretty much dead on to Van's
>dimensions.
>
>Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions before I apply a cut-off
>wheel to my $800 hunk of plastic?
>
>George Kilishek
>N888RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: In Line Filters? |
> I have decided to install in-line filters from each tank.
> I have a couple of filters that Spruce sells that use a
> hose and clamp over a barbed tube for connection. I have
> looked for a fitting that could connected to the aluminum
> tubing with barbs for the filter hose end. No luck thus far.
>
> I am assuming that it is not a wise move to slip the hose over
> the aluminum tubing with a clamp to secure it. Or Is It?
I use Fram G-3 filters (automotive) with installation similar to what you describe.
A filter is installed between each tank and the fuel selector. My filters
are installed under the landing gear weldment of my RV-6A. The Fram filters
come with hose which fits very tightly on to the filter and over the stock RV
fuel system tubing. I used small hose clamps for added security. I have no
significant concern about the security of the filters attached to the aluminum
tubing using the supplied hose. It is next to impossible to get the hose off
the aluminum tubing once it is installed.
I have a 3rd Fram G-3 filter between the fuel flow transducer and the fuel pump.
This acts as an isolator to reduce fuel system pulses degrading the fuel flow
transducer's accuracy.
If I had it to do over again, I'd try to install the first two filters between
the tank and the fuselage (outside the cockpit), because changing the filters
in their present location guarantees some gas spilling inside the plane, which
has to be cleaned up.
>You need to get a Parker tubing beader to do it right.
That would be nice, perhaps, but in my experience it's not needed, at least with
the hose that comes with the Fram G-3 filter. It holds to the aluminum tubing
tenaciously.
>Why are you going to a non-standard fuel system? One which
>the FAA will not approve for certified? There is a reason for
>the gascolator and not a filter system.
Excellent! A little humor to start off the work week!
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
>
>
>Please pardon my ignorance. What's a tinnerman?
A tin smith who is male. ! *rimshot* Sorry Jim.
>
>I heard this same story but it also included some tubing used as bushings
>on the
>#6 screws to add some expansion and contraction space. Anyone know what
>size
>tubing to use? It was my understanding that the fuel line that R/C
>airplanes
>use is idea for this application but I have no idea where to get some.
>
Silicone fuel tubing can be found at any local hobby shop. It can be had in
various wall thicknesses and outer diameters, and can also be found in black
rubber for use in the gasoline powered models vs. the methanol powered ones.
I have lots of both and it's mighty handy stuff to have for chafing
protection on tubing and wires, grommeting large holes and for use around
the edge of the big rectangular hole cut in the panel for the nav/com. Glue
in place with shoe goo, also great stuff.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
Good morning friends,
Working on my -8- rudder, cut stiffeners last night :( . As you know Van's
specifies using RTV sealer in the trailing edge of rudder and elevators.
Which sealer is best? Blue? Black? Also, learned today that if you use
acetone, make sure it's "virgin", not recycled. If recycled it apparently
is acidic.
Thanks!
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
Craig: Check the pedal-cylinders!! The spring side of the cylinder must be on
top..This allows air in the cylinder to pass to the lines where bleeding
removes it from the system..Had this problem with my 4...Jim Brown, NJ...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Fuel tank caps loose and corroded |
Hi,
Checked fuel system for leaks by placing small amount of vacuum on system
which leaked readily at fuel tank caps. Caps are actually loose in the
holes as if they are too small or the hole too large. One person suggested
larger O rings. On removal of O ring, cap is found to be heavily corroded
and sticking. One cap has already a broken roll pin. Oiling good cap and
retrying it now fits securely.
Suggest checking caps on receipt of kit!!
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Started reading the terms of their agreement in order to sign up and was
stopped when reading that one has to be a resident of the US. so looks like
it won't work for me. To bad.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | RV builder selling Smyth Sidewinder |
Posting for a fellow RV builder who is not on the list. He is selling the
Smyth Sidewinder built before building his RV-4. Please contact him directly.
FOR SALE:
Smyth Sidewinder with 160HP O-320-D2C
TT engine and airframe 500 hours
33 gal fuel capacity
Top speed at altitude 180MPH+
Stall speed 61 MPH
gyro panel, 810 com, RNAV-30A loran, Terra xponder w/encoder
Imron paint - 5 time award winner
Always hangered (3CK) Lake in the Hills Illinois
$36,000 firm
George F. Brunkalla
Roselle Illinois
Home 630 529-5944
Shop 847 678-3033
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
Subject: | RV Badges for Oshkosh Update Please Read |
Listers,
I am traveling from the UAE (Persian Gulf) to be at Osh for the first time.
Any RV events going on please can you let me know ahead of time. I will be
traveling unaccompanied.
Look forward to meeting any fellow Lister.
David Roseblade
RV6A wings, deburring and dimpling.... Fuselage on it's way - 'Yike'
United Arab Emirates
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Badges for Oshkosh Update Please Read
PANELCUT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers
>
> I think I have completed all the badges that I received mailers for I have
> four that I still need some info on so if anyone knows these people tell
them
> to contact me via e-mail.
>
> Gary E. Graham
> Glen Gordon & wife
> Carl J. Franz
> Gene Larson
>
> If i have missed someone PLEASE be patient I have been overwelmed with
these
> things. I hope everyone is happy with the results and hope to see them all
at
> Oshkosh.
>
> Steve Davis
> The Panel Pilot
>
Hi Steve,
This is Glenn Gordon with 2 "N"s on Glenn. My wifes name is Judi. What
other
information can I provide you with?
Glenn Gordon & Judi Gordon
421 West Thompson Blvd
Buffalo Grove, IL 60090
EAA Chapter 790
Building RV-6
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net
Thanks again,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
>>>>Craig: Check the pedal-cylinders!! The spring side of the cylinder must be
on
top..This allows air in the cylinder to pass to the lines where bleeding
removes it from the system..Had this problem with my 4<<<<<<
IS the spring side the hollow cylinder or the actual rod....i.e. does the rod
go up or does the rod go down ???
A20driver(at)aol.com on 07/17/2000 10:43:27 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brakes
Craig: Check the pedal-cylinders!! The spring side of the cylinder must be on
top..This allows air in the cylinder to pass to the lines where bleeding
removes it from the system..Had this problem with my 4...Jim Brown, NJ...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
Subject: | In-line filter vs. gascolator |
I am in the process of installing an Airflow Performance fuel injection system
in an 0-360 A1A (in my -4). I have not decided whether to use the in-line
filter supplied by Airflow Performance or an Andair gascolator. I would
appreciate any feedback from other builders who have already made this decision.
Thanks for the help.
Dean Pichon
Arlington, MA
RV-4
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc. and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: In-line filter vs. gascolator |
There is verry little( if any ) room for a gascolator in the traditional space
under the cowl.
If you were to find any room there is very little area that the exhaust pipes
wont interfer. This coupled with the engine mount cross member and the holes in
the fire wall for the control cables.....I Just couldnot find the room. Others
have . I used a Morosso filter prior to the Andair furl selector to filter the
fuel. Sumping for water.......the gascolater would not be at the low point if I
placed it in the traditional place unser the cowl anyway. The low points are in
the wing tank vents anyway. Lots of builders have used the Airflow performance
filters or the Morosso inline filters in my area. There is a past thread on this
subject also.
pichon.dean(at)adlittle.com on 07/17/2000 02:29:33 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: In-line filter vs. gascolator
I am in the process of installing an Airflow Performance fuel injection system
in an 0-360 A1A (in my -4). I have not decided whether to use the in-line
filter supplied by Airflow Performance or an Andair gascolator. I would
appreciate any feedback from other builders who have already made this decision.
Thanks for the help.
Dean Pichon
Arlington, MA
RV-4
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc. and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Yes, someone pointed that out to me earlier today. I appologize for not
seeing it sooner. Nevertheless, I'll send you a check on 7/22 for all money
raised via referals from those in the US.
Thanks,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 Fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eustace Bowhay
> Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 12:19 PM
> To: rv list
> Subject: RV-List: PayPal
>
>
> Started reading the terms of their agreement in order to sign up and was
> stopped when reading that one has to be a resident of the US. so
> looks like
> it won't work for me. To bad.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
The rod goes up...JB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | EAA Memorial Wall Ceremony |
FYI - From Van's web site:
--------------------------
EAA Memorial Wall Ceremony
The year 2000 EAA Memorial Wall ceremony will be held at 11:00 am on Monday,
July 31st at the Fergus Chapel near the EAA Museum.
Bill and Jeremy Benedicts names will be on the plaque that will be
dedicated at that time. All RV builders/pilots/friends who would like to
attend would be most welcome.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
I installed the brakes on my RV4 with the spring down to allow for
clearances on the center bulkhead. Bleeding the brakes when installed in
this manner requires that the brake cylinder be disconnected from the pedal
and inverted during the bleeding process. It sounds worse than it is. There
was an article in the RVator a while back with some pictures. I haven't had
any trouble with my brakes. They are rock solid.
Tom Brown - N854TB RV4 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Laser Electronic Ignition /What if? |
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> I am leaning towards Jeff Rose's system or Lightspeeds. More bang for the buck
and
> I keep one of my impulse coupled mags if the electronic fails.
>
I have Jeff Rose' system on my -4 for 95 hours now. No problems at all with
it at
all.
Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap, TX leaving for OSH Thu. Doing some visiting
on the
way.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy: Sanity Check |
In a message dated 7/17/00 3:25:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
<< >recall, suggested oversizing the holes in the plexi, then countersinking,
>then using #6 tinnermans between the rivets and the plexi in areas where you
Please pardon my ignorance. What's a tinnerman? >>
A dimpled washer made to go between a countersunk screw and the outside
surface. Tinnerman washers are often used as part of the hardware that
attaches wingtips, cowls, and inspection panels on aircraft. They come in
various sizes (-6, -8, -10, etc) to match screw sizes. All the ones I've
seen are stainless steel. All of the major airplane parts suppliers stock
them.
Kyle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
> Navaid wing leveler - consider an STEC 20 (I think - $2995)
> as it has an
> IFR legal turn coordinator.
The Navaid wing leveler also contains an IFR legal turn coordinator. The FAR requires
a gyroscopic turn coordinator, which the Navaid unit has. The FAR does
not specify digital (Navaid) or analog (STEC) display.
My RV-6A, with Navaid autopilot/turn coordinator, is certified for IFR flight,
per the operating limitations. My FAA inspector went so far as to circle "IFR"
on the operating limitations before he signed them.
Tim Lewis
RV-6A N47TD
87 hours, including some IFR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | RV6 Slider handles photos |
>
>
> Gary can you get a picture posted to someone's www
> site so we all can see
> how this is done?
> Marty in Brentwood, TN
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 9:00 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Slider handles
>
>
> >
> > I put the handles on my RV-6 slider windshild bow
> and
> > after 600 hours in less than 3 years of flying,
> would
> > not be without them. IMHO, they are a must have.
Marty:
I placed the photos you requested in the SoCAL Wing
Van's Air Force photo album.
http://members3.clubphoto.com/socal230330/RV-6_Builders_album/
Hope this helps. If the address is on two lines, you
will need to copy and past it on one line.
The airplane will be at Oshkosh AirVenture 2000 parked
next to Paul Rosales just completed RV-6A. Feel free
to stop by and take a look. There will be 6 RVs that
I know of from the SoCAL Wing at OSH. Due to FFI
check rides, I may not head east till Monday.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: LASAR Electronic Ignition /What if? |
-----Original Message-----
From: InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116 <bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP>
Date: Sunday, July 16, 2000 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR Electronic Ignition /What if?
201-229-116) with ESMTP
>
>The LASAR ignition systems that come installed on the Lycomings DO NOT
>have the low voltage starting problem and can be hand cranked. They had
>to fix that problem to get their spam can STC from the FAA
>Boyd
I'd like to add a warning regarding hand proping a dead LASAR system.
According to the tech who led the LASAR installation seminar at Sun&Fun 2000
and my IA friend, hand proping a mag with no impulse coupler is dangerous.
In addition to providing a hot spark at very low rotational rates (the
"impulse") the main function of the impulse-coupled mag is to retard the
spark to prevent kick-back. Even if you could spin the crank fast enough to
get a good spark, the kick-back could be dangerous. This is why the
non-impulse mag is shorted out during the start cycle. The kick-back
usually damages the starter, which is not the issue here, of course. Unless
something has changed in the design of the LASAR recently, I would caution
against hand proping.
Dennis Persyk getting close
Hampshire, IL C38
>>
>>
>> Not to long ago in one of the "What's New" sections of one of the
aviation mags I
>> get there was a blurb that Unison is now producing the Lasar system with
impulse
>> couplings. This would be a must have feature if I were to use the Lasar
system. I
>> am leaning towards Jeff Rose's system or Lightspeeds. More bang for the
buck and I
>> keep one of my impulse coupled mags if the electronic fails.
>>
>>snip
>> Gary Zilik
>> RV-6A still flying with old tractor ignition.
>>
>> lothar klingmuller wrote:
>>
>> > The lack of the impulse coupling is IMHO a NOT SO GOOG feature. If I
had
>> > known that, I would not have ordered the Lazar ingition. My engine
arrived
>> > a week ago, so now I have to live with this "handicap" of not being
able to
>> > handcranck the engine.. I just hope I will not get stuck at some
lonesome
>> > AP or isolated strip!!
>>
>> o
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil pressure |
First off thank you all to responding to my question. Let me clear a few
thinks up......I am talking about a oil pressure transducer not a
combination temp/press. I talked with a Lycoming rep and he informed me
that the oil pressure difference between the front of the case and rear
case can be different by up to 10 psi but 5-6 psi is more typical. I never
had oil pressure that was really low......just not where I would like to
see it, around 70-80 psi in cruse flight was my target(oil heated up). The
lower pressure readings that I saw were simply due to the location I was
reading my oil pressure from.....Now when someone pointed out that locating
the sender on the engine was not a good idea...I decide to call up both
Westach and Electronics International and see what they had to say. I have
gauges from both companies and both responded quickly to my questions.
Westach basically said that they were not aware of any senders failing (oil
loss) but it would be a good idea to mount the sender on the firewall due
to heat and vibration. Electronic International came right to the point by
saying that it has had failures (oil loss) and if the sender is mounted on
the engine it would be just a matter of time before failure (100- 1000+ hrs
who knows?). That was all I needed to hear......my sender will have a new
home on the firewall.
Thank you again for all the info.
Chris
----------
> From: Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil pressure
> Date: Sunday, July 16, 2000 11:15 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 7/16/00 8:15:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org
> writes:
>
> <<
> Why can't the oil pump provide higher pressures??
> 1. The pump is worn letting pressure escape.
> 2. The bearing clearances are worn so that the pump cannot build up
pressure
> 3. The oil is TOO HOT so that the pump cannot overcome both the wear in
the
> pump and the wear in the bearings. >>
> OR Possibly The GAGE isn`t accurate...........Fred LaForge RV-4
> -----------
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8A Aileron Misalignment |
Hi Wayne
When I finished my 4, I had one misaligned aileron and the fix that Van gave
me was to take the brackets off the aileron and file the hole oblong to a
slot(in your case make the hole 3/16" longer in the right direction) and
reinstall the aileron. Worked like a charm for me and is still working
well.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
> Dear RV-8A Quickbuilders:
>
> I have run into a problem and wonder if any other QBers have found same,
if
> so, how did you fix it? As you know the aileron bracket and hinge is all
> prepunched, both rivet and bolts holes, as well as the rivet holes in the
> rear spar. Therefore there is no way to adjust or align aileron placement.
> My ailerons are both exactly 3/16" too low. This leaves a larger than
> normal gap at the leading edge and a very noticeable step-off at the flap.
> The only 'fix' I can come up with is to install new aileron brackets (not
> predrilled) and move the bolt holes accordingly. (By the way, I did send
> back to Van's to get the newly designed flap braces, so alignment here was
> not a problem; ie. the flaps are correctly positioned). Thanks.
>
> Wayne Williams
> RV-8A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
How much torque should one apply to the oil filler tube into the crankcase?
It is the filled plastic one, with some sort of cork like gasket. And,
where would one find that information?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Vertical Card Compass |
>
>> >A couple of people told me to
>> >line up on section lines but that only gives N S E W (and are the section
>> >lines true?) Must be some way to use GPS but that's only going to be
>> >accurate in a calm wind, right?
>
>Your quite right, you can use your GPS to do this job.
>
>Some time ago I put together a short paper describing how to determine
>TAS from three GPS runs in different directions. By solving the vector
>triangles for these runs and assuming the wind direction and speed is
>unchanged it is possible to resolve the TAS. But, to answer your
>question, a by-product of this calculation is that the 'true' headings
>for each run can also be resolved (that is unless you are flying in a
>constant yaw). These can be compared with the compass heading to
>prepare a deviation chart.
>
>I have spelled this out in this paper and suggest you take a look. Kevin
>Horton has this paper on his website although I am not sure of the web
>address.
>
>That said, a compass swing on the ground would be quicker, easier,
>cheaper to do; and if you've already got the GPS how often will you be
>looking at the compass?
>
>Doug Gray
>
>
I finally figured out how to get internet access down here in southern
Argentina, so I'll add my two cents worth.
Prop aircraft pretty much always are flying with a bit of sideslip. If the
fuselage is exactly aligned with the relative wind (zero sideslip), the
prop wash is hitting one side of the vertical tail, and putting a sideforce
on it. This sideforce would put the ball out to one side, and cause the
aircraft to do a slow turn if the wings were level. We end up putting in
some rudder to bring the ball in the centre, which stops the turn, but
gives us a small amount of sideslip. Note - this whole story does not
apply to multi-engine types with contra-rotating props. However, the
amount of sideslip involved is probably small enough in cruise conditions
to be neglibible as far as using Doug's GPS method to swing a compass.
Doug's method would be very difficult to use though. You would have to fly
three legs, noting GPS track, ground speed, and compass heading on each.
Then you have to put all the numbers in the spreadsheet, and it spits out
the true heading for each leg. You add or subtract the variation to get
the magnetic heading (assuming zero sideslip). Now you know the compass
error on each leg. So, go flying again, make small adjustments to the
compass and repeat the process. It could take many, many flights to sort
this out. It would be quicker with a helper in the other seat with a
laptop computer to crunch the numbers in-flight, but it would still not be
too practical.
Now, if you want to determine your TAS, Doug's method is probably the best
one out there. The info is on my web site, in the Flight Test, Determing
TAS from GPS, section of my RV-links page:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
Can anyone point me to some resources for RV-6 and RV-8 Panel ACAD drawings
and Instrument drawings on the web??
I have Panel Planner but was looking for a little more along with some
structural.
Thanks
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Flap position Indicator |
I installed a flap position indicator for my electric flaps on my -8. Does
anyone know what type of sensor would be hooked up to make the indicator work?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
I am getting close to sealing my wings up. Am I correct in assuming that 14
guage is correct for landing lights and 18 gauge is fine for the
strobe/nav/postion lights on the wingtips (aeroflash)? I can see a problem
trying to use a primed before assembly wing structure as a ground so think I
want to run ground wires as well (damn weight). Can I use one ground wire
for all of them...say the 14 guage for the lights? I want all of that
worked out and installed before I put the skins on...just easier that way.
Bill
-4 the wings don't fly yet...but the neighbors are pretty curious - ARE
THOSE AIRPLANE WINGS?? :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
I am getting close to sealing my wings up. Am I correct in assuming that 14
guage is correct for landing lights and 18 gauge is fine for the
strobe/nav/postion lights on the wingtips (aeroflash)? I can see a problem
trying to use a primed before assembly wing structure as a ground so think I
want to run ground wires as well (damn weight). Can I use one ground wire
for all of them...say the 14 guage for the lights? I want all of that
worked out and installed before I put the skins on...just easier that way.
Bill
-4 the wings don't fly yet...but the neighbors are pretty curious - ARE
THOSE AIRPLANE WINGS?? :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | RV6A tail kit for sale. |
RV6A tailkit for sale. Except for unpacking, it hasn't been touched
and is in perfect condition.
The kit includes the thicker skins and electric trim.
This kit is not prepunched; I bought it just before prepunching started.
Will sell for best offer. Raleigh, NC. Shipping isn't out of the
question.
Respond via email or phone, not list; I no longer follow the list.
Don Karl karl(at)dg.com (919)248-5915
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wiring in wings |
--- Bill Shook wrote:
> I am getting close to sealing my wings up. Am I correct in assuming
> that 14
> guage is correct for landing lights and 18 gauge is fine for the
> strobe/nav/postion lights on the wingtips (aeroflash)? I can see a
> problem
> trying to use a primed before assembly wing structure as a ground so
> think I want to run ground wires as well (damn weight).
I think you will find that the wing spar _will_ make a great electrical
ground - together with a bonding wire from the spar root to the ground
bus. Just use a star washer when you attach the component's ground
(mine is Aeroflash stobes and Navaid servo on the wing tip) to chew
through the primer and make a "gas tight seal" with the aluminum. Also
at the root end.
Should be some archive info on this...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
I don't think using the airframe as a ground would be a problem,
resistance-wise. I have an overprimed (too-heavy coat of AZKO) wing
skeleton and skins and the resistance from the inboard to the outboard rib
is (I just went out and measured it) is 0.3 ohms, which is as close to zero
as you'll find, I think. You might want to try the same thing. The same
would be true of the fuselage, so the only potential low resitance point
would be the electrical connection from the spar to the fuselage, which I'm
sure would be fine. If it wasn't it would be a lot easier to jumper the
spar to the fuse than to run many grounds.
Note I'm no engineer, just a guy with an ohmmeter...
Matthew Gelber
-8A wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Shook
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 11:42 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wiring in wings
I am getting close to sealing my wings up. Am I correct in assuming that 14
guage is correct for landing lights and 18 gauge is fine for the
strobe/nav/postion lights on the wingtips (aeroflash)? I can see a problem
trying to use a primed before assembly wing structure as a ground so think I
want to run ground wires as well (damn weight). Can I use one ground wire
for all of them...say the 14 guage for the lights? I want all of that
worked out and installed before I put the skins on...just easier that way.
Bill
-4 the wings don't fly yet...but the neighbors are pretty curious - ARE
THOSE AIRPLANE WINGS?? :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Troy Whistman wrote:
> details about what happened to Bill and his RV at his
> website; the address is
> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
>
Thanks Troy but I've been there and couldn't find anything about the accident in
text.
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wiring in wings |
>
> I am getting close to sealing my wings up. Am I correct in assuming that
14
> guage is correct for landing lights and 18 gauge is fine for the
> strobe/nav/postion lights on the wingtips (aeroflash)? I can see a
problem
> trying to use a primed before assembly wing structure as a ground so think
I
> want to run ground wires as well (damn weight). Can I use one ground wire
> for all of them...say the 14 guage for the lights? I want all of that
> worked out and installed before I put the skins on...just easier that way.
>
> Bill
> -4 the wings don't fly yet...but the neighbors are pretty curious - ARE
> THOSE AIRPLANE WINGS?? :-)
>
>
Hmmm, I think I hear Electric Bob clearing his throat! :>) You might want
to check out an article at www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html on wire sizing
that will answer your question. But basically, you just add up the length
of the wire run and figure out how much power (amps) is going to the lights
and do the arithmetic to figure out the right wire size. Most of us use a
local ground for the lights in the wings because of the length of the run -
I did, even though I installed Bob's firewall ground block. Just sand down
to metal to insure a good contact with the ground terminal.
Good luck!
Jerry Carter
Memphis, TN
My RV-8A website:
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CTonnini(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Remove from list |
Please remove my email adress from your list
Thank you
Claudio Tonnini
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Flap position Indicator |
Hi Jim,
Mac sells a linear indicator device that can be used in conjunction with
the position indicator. The indicator will typically only move 1.25 to 1.5".
Therefore you have to install the linear position indicator at a point on
the flap actuator where 1.5" equals full movement of the flaps from the up to
the down position. On my RV4, I mounted my indicator on the actuator arm
between the flap motor and the center bulkhead. It has worked just fine.
Tom Brown - RV4 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flap position Indicator |
FWIW, I would like to pass on advice from the great Jim Cone (he built two
RV-6As, and wrote the definitive treatise on sliding canopy installation).
I asked him about a flap position indicator, and he said that you can see
out the canopy where the flaps are, but more to the point they only provide
drag, and the various positions don't do much for you as they do in a
Cessna. Therefore, the only two positions you need to be concerned about
are fully up and fully down.
>From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Flap position Indicator
>Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:55:35 -0400
>
>
>I installed a flap position indicator for my electric flaps on my -8. Does
>anyone know what type of sensor would be hooked up to make the indicator
>work?
>
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
>(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wiring in wings |
Normal practise with "the big boys" is to remove enough primer to make an
electrical ground.
do this where spar comes close to your fuselage and use a ground wire.
do the same at your appliance. this will save you the ground wires.
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wiring in wings |
Bill,
I primed mine before riveting and installed the grd. by drilling a hole in
the tip rib and riveting the ring terminal to it. Both grds go to the same
rivet, but two wires are used. I think the wire guage is similar to what
yo're thinking. I put the snap bushings in the ribs before closing but
wired after the wings were closed. No prblems getting the wire through.
Also, I didn't use conduit; the wire is open between ribs. All works well.
Rick Caldwell
Melbourne, FL
108 hrs -6
>From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Wiring in wings
>Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:41:30 -0400
>
>
>I am getting close to sealing my wings up. Am I correct in assuming that
>14
>guage is correct for landing lights and 18 gauge is fine for the
>strobe/nav/postion lights on the wingtips (aeroflash)? I can see a problem
>trying to use a primed before assembly wing structure as a ground so think
>I
>want to run ground wires as well (damn weight). Can I use one ground wire
>for all of them...say the 14 guage for the lights? I want all of that
>worked out and installed before I put the skins on...just easier that way.
>
>Bill
>-4 the wings don't fly yet...but the neighbors are pretty curious - ARE
>THOSE AIRPLANE WINGS?? :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
You have to look under the words ACCIDENT :)
Here's a direct
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/accident.html
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Wings - Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: For Sale
>
> Troy Whistman wrote:
>
> > details about what happened to Bill and his RV at his
> > website; the address is
> > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html
> >
>
> Thanks Troy but I've been there and couldn't find anything about the
accident in
> text.
>
> Chuck Weyant
> EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
> WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
> Santa Maria, CA
> 805 347-8882
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
>You have to look under the words ACCIDENT :)
Mike,
Looks like your missing the point here.
We would like to know ( how it happened ) not what the aftermath looked like.
When I go out to an NTSB site and read about an accident, I learn something.
With any luck I will remember what I learned and not repeat the mistake myself.
You know the old adage, "those who don't learn from history..."
All I learned from the pictures at the link you provided is that storing my
plane in an upside down configuration is not advisable :-)
- Jim
RV-8AQ ( wiring )
N89JA (reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded |
I had similar problem, called mfg.
Was told the caps will not seal properly if the o-rings are not lubed
properly !!
Also lost roll pin before I found out.
oiled second one before trail, no leaks.
Gert
kempthornes wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Checked fuel system for leaks by placing small amount of vacuum on system
> which leaked readily at fuel tank caps. Caps are actually loose in the
> holes as if they are too small or the hole too large. One person suggested
> larger O rings. On removal of O ring, cap is found to be heavily corroded
> and sticking. One cap has already a broken roll pin. Oiling good cap and
> retrying it now fits securely.
>
> Suggest checking caps on receipt of kit!!
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> 2578 Elliot Court
> Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
> 408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
> RV6a N7HK 99%
> 1965 Debonair for sale!
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
Try this link for the report, if you havn't already
http://www.ntsb.gov/Aviation/NYC/00A107.htm
L.Adamson RV6A finish
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
Subject: | Dynafocal bushings |
Folks,
No joy in the archives - I've seen the dynafocal
bushings in the accy catalog, and I've seen similar
bushings in the Wicks catalog for about 1/2 the price.
Anyone know the difference?
And thanks to Kyle Boatright for showing off his
-6 last weekend.
Dave 'donut boy' Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Throttle Cable Question |
Listers,
I'm using Van's green sheathed cables for throttle and mixture control. At
each end of of the sheath, there is a threaded metal end that gets clamped to
a bulkhead or to the cable bracket using two nuts and a toothed washer.
My question is: Which side of the bulkhead (or throttle cable bracket) does
the toothed washer go on, and what's to keep the nut on the other side from
working loose?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
I have been asked to post the names of the contributors. The following is
the list to date in the order received.
BRIAN ECKSTEIN
DOUGLAS WEILER
WESLEY HAYS
JOHN JOHNSON
LARRY PARDUE
CRAIG HIERS
JOHN LEE
JIM ANDREWS
ROBERT MOORE
DR. KLINGMULLER
DON JORDON
EARL FORTON
JOHN HOMGREEN
LAWRENCE GREENO
RAYMOND GRENIER
ROBERT HALL
THOMAS SARGENT
JERRY CARTER
ROBERT MARSHALL
CICIL HATFIELD JR.
RION BOURGEOIS
KEN HOSHOWSKI
DALE WOTRING
W.B. CRETSINGER
K.H. KEMPTHORNE
BILLY WILSON
TERRENCE WATSON
MIKE HAWKS
KEVIN HORTON
ROBERT BOWER JR.
JAMES JEWELL
JOHN FROMM
MICHAEL HARTMAN
ALEX PETERSON
HARRY CROSBY
JOHN BRICK
RONALD EAGLESTON
JERRY CALVERT
For a total of 39 since June 27/00 or just under 2 per day and today being
the first day we have drawn a blank.
On the up side some of these have contributed as high as $100.00.
I apologize if I have misspelled anyone's name and thank those who have
contributed.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
Subject: | Throttle Cable Question |
The toothed washer is the lock washer - Put it under the nut - It keeps the
nut from backing off.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 6:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Throttle Cable Question
Listers,
I'm using Van's green sheathed cables for throttle and mixture control. At
each end of of the sheath, there is a threaded metal end that gets clamped
to
a bulkhead or to the cable bracket using two nuts and a toothed washer.
My question is: Which side of the bulkhead (or throttle cable bracket) does
the toothed washer go on, and what's to keep the nut on the other side from
working loose?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Panel Dwg |
Greg
I'm real sorry I forgot to e-mail those drawings to you...I will do it
tomorrow it slipped my mind.
Steve Davis
The Panel Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Throttle Cable Question |
> Listers,
>
> I'm using Van's green sheathed cables for throttle and mixture control.
At
> each end of of the sheath, there is a threaded metal end that gets
clamped
> to
> a bulkhead or to the cable bracket using two nuts and a toothed washer.
>
> My question is: Which side of the bulkhead (or throttle cable bracket)
does
> the toothed washer go on, and what's to keep the nut on the other side
from
> working loose?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright
Need two star washers, one on each side. My cables came with two.
Alex Peterson
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Panel Dwg |
Thanx Steve.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Subject: | Air Filter Maintenance? |
From: | Don Diehl <ddiehl(at)silverlink.net> |
I installed Van's carb air cleaner kit on my RV-4 a year/120 hours ago
and am pleased to see how much stuff did not get into the engine.
It has the K&N oil type element.
Now, it's time to clean and re-oil the filter element but I can't find
the instruction sheet. Can anyone provide the maintenance procedure.
Many thanks.
Don Diehl
N28EW
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Throttle Cable Question |
I recently replaced the throttle cable on my Citabria and the star washers
were outside the brackets. Both the original cable (in place for 26 years)
and the genuine, certified, "direct-from-the-factory with a QC stamp on an
ACS part at twice the price" replacement had only one star washer for each
end.
July 12, 2000 - July 19, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-iw