RV-Archive.digest.vol-ix
July 19, 2000 - July 26, 2000
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
-----Original Message-----
Listers,
I'm using Van's green sheathed cables for throttle and mixture control. At
each end of of the sheath, there is a threaded metal end that gets clamped
to
a bulkhead or to the cable bracket using two nuts and a toothed washer.
My question is: Which side of the bulkhead (or throttle cable bracket) does
the toothed washer go on, and what's to keep the nut on the other side from
working loose?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Filter Maintenance? |
Don,
I just did this during my 100 hr. two days ago.
1. Tap filter on table to loosen the big clumps of dead bugs.
2. Spray on K&N cleaner fluid & let soak 10 min.
3. Hose off with low pressure water from the inside to rinse out.
4. Let air dry. Let mine dry overnight.
5. Squeeze red lube on every cleat.
6. Let soak 10 min. & relube if any white area is showing.
7. I overoiled mine so I had to let the excess drip for a while before
reinstalling.
Rick Caldwell
Melbourne FL
RV-6 N136RC
>From: Don Diehl <ddiehl(at)silverlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Air Filter Maintenance?
>Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 22:13:21 -0700
>
>
>I installed Van's carb air cleaner kit on my RV-4 a year/120 hours ago
>and am pleased to see how much stuff did not get into the engine.
>It has the K&N oil type element.
>Now, it's time to clean and re-oil the filter element but I can't find
>the instruction sheet. Can anyone provide the maintenance procedure.
>Many thanks.
>
>Don Diehl
>N28EW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Filter Maintenance? |
>
>I installed Van's carb air cleaner kit on my RV-4 a year/120 hours ago
>and am pleased to see how much stuff did not get into the engine.
>It has the K&N oil type element.
>Now, it's time to clean and re-oil the filter element but I can't find
>the instruction sheet. Can anyone provide the maintenance procedure.
>Many thanks.
>
>Don Diehl
>N28EW
I pick up a kit at the local auto suppy that comes with instructions.
Have a good one!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
| Subject: | S-Tec servo installation |
On a related question, I am leaning towards getting the -8 Quickbuild kit.
Does anyone know how hard of a time I would have installing a one- or
two-axis STEC unit in the Quickbuild kit? With most of the wing skinned
already, my access will be limited. I know there is one skin left to put on
by the builder; perhaps I'll get lucky and it will be the one I would need
for servo access!
Troy Whistman
Fort Worth
-8 gonna-be
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Farrar [mailto:jfarrar1(at)home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: S-Tec servo installation
Listers, Has anyone installed an S-Tec wing leveler servo in an -8A? With
the aileron trim assembly, there isn't any way to install it under the
removable floor section.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Dynafocal bushings |
In a message dated 7/18/00 5:53:42 PM Central Daylight Time, nauga(at)brick.net
writes:
<< I've seen the dynafocal
bushings in the accy catalog, and I've seen similar
bushings in the Wicks catalog for about 1/2 the price.
Anyone know the difference? >>
One difference is that are different durometers (hardness) available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: S-Tec servo installation |
In a message dated 7/18/00 8:41:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
jfarrar1(at)home.com writes:
<< jfarrar1(at)home.com >>
I put mine just behind the rt footwell. Remove the footwell to get to it.
Stan Mehrhoff
Fitting Top Cowl.
________________________________________________________________________________
For those of you who care:
It is turning out the total price to build my RV-8 will be in the 65-70,000
range.
It is a quick build with a LaBlond O-360, C/S prop, VFR panel, Oregon Aero
seats, a professional paint job (4K), and nothing fancy.
I feel it is worth every penny.
Ed Storo RV-8 30+hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cable Question |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Don't think it matters for locking. About the 35th time I re-installed
the Throttle while working on the mixture, I put the lock washer forward.
That will not work as it put the throttle in a bind. The 90 degree turn
down is too close to the hole.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm using Van's green sheathed cables for throttle and mixture
control. At
> each end of of the sheath, there is a threaded metal end that gets
clamped to
> a bulkhead or to the cable bracket using two nuts and a toothed
washer.
>
> My question is: Which side of the bulkhead (or throttle cable
bracket) does
> the toothed washer go on, and what's to keep the nut on the other side
from
> working loose?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil check tube |
Hi Alex:
What is recommended for the plastic tubes is hand tightening and safety
wiring. You stand a good chance of breaking it using a wrench.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Date: Monday, July 17, 2000 9:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil check tube
>
>How much torque should one apply to the oil filler tube into the crankcase?
> It is the filled plastic one, with some sort of cork like gasket. And,
>where would one find that information?
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN 6A
>
>
>------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - $7.99/mo! ------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bvondane(at)atmel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Keep it Short! |
(Message body intentionally left blank)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"Eustace Bowhay"
| Subject: | Fuel System Design 6-A |
(as always...others are also welcome to respond)
I would like to copy the fuel system that you described in a post last
February. (see below) This change, however, does not allow for the usual
placement of the solenoid driven primer line....taken off of the
gascolator...because the fuel pump is located on the engine side of the
gascolator and therefore the gascolator is not pressurized in your system.
My thought is to put a "T" in the fuel line at the bulkhead fitting at the
firewall penetration point. This "T" would run 1/4" to the carburetor and
be reduced to 1/8" to the primer solenoid. Do you see any problems with
this?
Ross Mickey
6-A 9PT (reserved)
"Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6 and 6A
as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect both
tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator installed in
the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side ahead of
the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator in the
same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the bottom
fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved the
gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
handy to drain and to have it low enough that it can be drained without the
boost pump on. All that is required is to have the fuel selector on."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 32 Msgs - 07/18/00 |
Try putting it in the wing tip!. Or wing if you like close quarters/
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded |
What does one use for Lube on these?
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded
>
> I had similar problem, called mfg.
> Was told the caps will not seal properly if the o-rings are not lubed
> properly !!
> Also lost roll pin before I found out.
> oiled second one before trail, no leaks.
>
> Gert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded |
Fuellube for long term, but the mfg. informed me for trail one can use
clean motor oil. Just keep in mind the fuel will wash the motor oil off.
Gert
Emrath wrote:
>
>
> What does one use for Lube on these?
> Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:01 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded
>
> >
> > I had similar problem, called mfg.
> > Was told the caps will not seal properly if the o-rings are not lubed
> > properly !!
> > Also lost roll pin before I found out.
> > oiled second one before trail, no leaks.
> >
> > Gert
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded |
Saliva has worked well for me and its readily available.
Tom
gert wrote:
>
> Fuellube for long term, but the mfg. informed me for trail one can use
> clean motor oil. Just keep in mind the fuel will wash the motor oil off.
>
> Gert
>
> Emrath wrote:
> >
> >
> > What does one use for Lube on these?
> > Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded
> >
> > >
> > > I had similar problem, called mfg.
> > > Was told the caps will not seal properly if the o-rings are not lubed
> > > properly !!
> > > Also lost roll pin before I found out.
> > > oiled second one before trail, no leaks.
> > >
> > > Gert
> >
>
> --
>
> Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
> any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: S-Tec servo installation |
Troy, Mine is a QB and both servo's go in the fuselage. In the -8, you
could also look at putting the wing leveler servo immediately in front of
the spar all the way to the right. George Orndorff said that someone using
his shop did that. S-Tec still doesn't have an installation kit for
the -8(A) so we are 'winging' it here. Jeff Farrar
----- Original Message -----
From: Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 7:08 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: S-Tec servo installation
>
> On a related question, I am leaning towards getting the -8 Quickbuild kit.
> Does anyone know how hard of a time I would have installing a one- or
> two-axis STEC unit in the Quickbuild kit? With most of the wing skinned
> already, my access will be limited. I know there is one skin left to put
on
> by the builder; perhaps I'll get lucky and it will be the one I would need
> for servo access!
>
> Troy Whistman
> Fort Worth
> -8 gonna-be
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: J. Farrar [mailto:jfarrar1(at)home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:47 PM
> To: rv8list(at)egroups.com; RV List
> Subject: RV-List: S-Tec servo installation
>
>
> Listers, Has anyone installed an S-Tec wing leveler servo in an -8A?
With
> the aileron trim assembly, there isn't any way to install it under the
> removable floor section.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: S-Tec servo installation |
For you folks that put it on the right side, it looks like it would
interfere w/ the air duct for the passenger vent? Jeff Farrar
----- Original Message -----
>
> << jfarrar1(at)home.com >>
> I put mine just behind the rt footwell. Remove the footwell to get to it.
> Stan Mehrhoff
> Fitting Top Cowl.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank cap tips |
Emrath wrote:
>
>
> What does one use for Lube on these?
> Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:01 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded
>
> >
> > I had similar problem, called mfg.
> > Was told the caps will not seal properly if the o-rings are not lubed
> > properly !!
> > Also lost roll pin before I found out.
> > oiled second one before trail, no leaks.
> >
> > Gert
A couple of fuel cap observations based on my experience (and I am sure
also available in the archives):
1) Dipping a finger into the tank following a refueling and smearing a
little gas on the o-ring will make the cap lock easily (if the locking
cam is properly adjusted).
2) Make sure the lock nut is adjusted properly. You loosen the nut, then
screw the bottom plate up or down to adjust the tension on the cam
mechanism. Too tight, and you will break the pin; too loose, and it
is.........too loose.
3) The pin can be replaced with 1/16" stainless steel welding rod. I
carry a short length of the rod onboard for the time when the pin will
break a long way from home. If the cap is mis-adjusted so that it is
hard to lock........the pin WILL break.
4) Whenever I think about it I put a little dab of lithium grease on the
locking cam.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 160 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded |
>
>What does one use for Lube on these?
>Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage.
Marty: Use fuellube on the pivot, stem, O-rings but before you do that,
disassemble the unit, replace the roll pin with a drill blank cut to length
(from your local mill supply house) and make sure it too is lubed. You may
not be able to open the cap with a fingernail but a brass key will do it
with no risk of breaking and closing by hand is very light and smooth.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded |
I've had similar problems, What do you lube the "O" ring with?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded |
try fuel lube
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
> I've had similar problems, What do you lube the "O" ring with?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | North Carolina Builders |
List: I will be on vacation in the Wilmington, NC area Aug.5-11 and would
like to see some other RV projects in any stage of completion.
Maybe someone has a RV6-A I could even get a ride in! Lunch and
fuel on me.
Tom in Ohio
(RV6-A-QB, 362-CT)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank cap tips |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Emrath wrote:
> >
> >
> > What does one use for Lube on these?
> > Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded
> >
> > >
> > > I had similar problem, called mfg.
> > > Was told the caps will not seal properly if the o-rings are not lubed
> > > properly !!
> > > Also lost roll pin before I found out.
> > > oiled second one before trail, no leaks.
> > >
> > > Gert
>
> A couple of fuel cap observations based on my experience (and I am sure
> also available in the archives):
>
> 1) Dipping a finger into the tank following a refueling and smearing a
> little gas on the o-ring will make the cap lock easily (if the locking
> cam is properly adjusted).
>
> 2) Make sure the lock nut is adjusted properly. You loosen the nut, then
> screw the bottom plate up or down to adjust the tension on the cam
> mechanism. Too tight, and you will break the pin; too loose, and it
> is.........too loose.
>
> 3) The pin can be replaced with 1/16" stainless steel welding rod. I
> carry a short length of the rod onboard for the time when the pin will
> break a long way from home. If the cap is mis-adjusted so that it is
> hard to lock........the pin WILL break.
>
> 4) Whenever I think about it I put a little dab of lithium grease on the
> locking cam.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 160 hrs)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ALL RIGHT. Here is the tip of the week! As with most of my priceless
> tips, it was
> learned after breaking a pin a long way from home. BTW a a large paper
> clip got me
> home carefully.
>
> The finger method is ok but only works for full tanks unless you have a
> really long finger.
>
> I take the dry cap and turn it sidewise, reach under the wing and push up
> the drain thingy with the side of the cap which deftly lets a little fuel
> dribble on the o ring. Voila. works every time.
>
> No paper clips needed the last 400 hours.
>
> No need to credit me on this if used. Be sure and archive.
>
> D Walsh
name="deniswalsh.vcf"
filename="deniswalsh.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Walsh;Denis
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net
fn:Denis Walsh
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Purchase |
Need opinions. I'm building a RV9A. Have been offered a Sensenich prop,
76DM6-O-59. Will this work on a RV9A with a 150 HP Lyc? I'm thinking there
isn't enough pitch for the anticipated cruise of 180MPH or so. If not, can it be
repitched? If so, what do you think the costs will be to do so? Should I just
purchase Van's brand new prop?
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Purchase |
Why not ask Sensenich?? I think they have a web site.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Purchase
>
> Need opinions. I'm building a RV9A. Have been offered a Sensenich prop,
> 76DM6-O-59. Will this work on a RV9A with a 150 HP Lyc? I'm thinking
there
> isn't enough pitch for the anticipated cruise of 180MPH or so. If not, can
it be
> repitched? If so, what do you think the costs will be to do so? Should I
just
> purchase Van's brand new prop?
> --
> Regards,
>
> Chuck Weyant
> EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
> WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
> Santa Maria, CA
> 805 347-8882
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
I don't know why I didn't address this along with the request for feedback on the
prop. I've been offered a 150HP 0-320-E3D 1977 with all accessories, first run
high time engine of 1,850 hours. Price about $6,000. Seller says all ad's are
current thru May '00. Seller says it's "out of a company airplane, compressions
are
good, engine runs great." A 180HP engine is replacing the 150HP is the reason
for
the sale. Mags are relatively new along with the ignition harness. Carb rebuild
is
600 hrs old. It's located in the midwest and I live on the Central Coast of
California (if that makes a diff).
I'm just starting the wings on my nine. Completion date is late summer to mid winter
of 2001. I welcome any comments any of you may have.
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Design 6-A |
Hi Ross:
Your idea should work just fine. I use steel braided pressure tested lines
firewall forward and plan it so as to relieve as much stress and vibration
as possible on all the fittings.
Regards
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B. C.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 12:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel System Design 6-A
>
>TO: Eustace Bowhay
> (as always...others are also welcome to respond)
>
>I would like to copy the fuel system that you described in a post last
>February. (see below) This change, however, does not allow for the usual
>placement of the solenoid driven primer line....taken off of the
>gascolator...because the fuel pump is located on the engine side of the
>gascolator and therefore the gascolator is not pressurized in your system.
>My thought is to put a "T" in the fuel line at the bulkhead fitting at the
>firewall penetration point. This "T" would run 1/4" to the carburetor and
>be reduced to 1/8" to the primer solenoid. Do you see any problems with
>this?
>
>Ross Mickey
>6-A 9PT (reserved)
>
>"Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6 and
6A
>as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect both
>tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator installed in
>the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side ahead of
>the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator in the
>same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
>short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the bottom
>fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved the
>gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
>handy to drain and to have it low enough that it can be drained without the
>boost pump on. All that is required is to have the fuel selector on."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Purchase |
Chuck,
Call Sensenich, ask for Ed Zygler their number is 717.569-0435. After a few higher
horsepower (160-180) RV9's start flying I think we are going to see speeds very
close to what comparable RV6's get. After all isn't a"6" just a clipped wing "9".
(Sorry for the blatant theft Sam).
Garry RV6 finishing still!
Chuck Weyant wrote:
> --Need opinions. I'm building a RV9A. Have been offered a Sensenich prop,
> 76DM6-O-59. Will this work on a RV9A with a 150 HP Lyc?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank cap tips |
Here's another one given to me recently: best lubrication for those O-rings
on the fuel caps so they will go on and off smoothly: believe it or not,
Chap Stick. Don't believe it? Try it, you'll agree. Works great. I have
mine adjusted so that they go on and off snuggly so sometimes when the
O-rings get too dry, they are hard to get on and off. A little dab of Chap
Stick solves the problem.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank cap tips
>
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> >
> > Emrath wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > What does one use for Lube on these?
> > > Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A Fuselage.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:01 PM
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank caps loose and corroded
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I had similar problem, called mfg.
> > > > Was told the caps will not seal properly if the o-rings are not
lubed
> > > > properly !!
> > > > Also lost roll pin before I found out.
> > > > oiled second one before trail, no leaks.
> > > >
> > > > Gert
> >
> > A couple of fuel cap observations based on my experience (and I am sure
> > also available in the archives):
> >
> > 1) Dipping a finger into the tank following a refueling and smearing a
> > little gas on the o-ring will make the cap lock easily (if the locking
> > cam is properly adjusted).
> >
> > 2) Make sure the lock nut is adjusted properly. You loosen the nut, then
> > screw the bottom plate up or down to adjust the tension on the cam
> > mechanism. Too tight, and you will break the pin; too loose, and it
> > is.........too loose.
> >
> > 3) The pin can be replaced with 1/16" stainless steel welding rod. I
> > carry a short length of the rod onboard for the time when the pin will
> > break a long way from home. If the cap is mis-adjusted so that it is
> > hard to lock........the pin WILL break.
> >
> > 4) Whenever I think about it I put a little dab of lithium grease on the
> > locking cam.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 160 hrs)
> > "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> >
> > ALL RIGHT. Here is the tip of the week! As with most of my priceless
> > tips, it was
> > learned after breaking a pin a long way from home. BTW a a large paper
> > clip got me
> > home carefully.
> >
> > The finger method is ok but only works for full tanks unless you have a
> > really long finger.
> >
> > I take the dry cap and turn it sidewise, reach under the wing and push
up
> > the drain thingy with the side of the cap which deftly lets a little
fuel
> > dribble on the o ring. Voila. works every time.
> >
> > No paper clips needed the last 400 hours.
> >
> > No need to credit me on this if used. Be sure and archive.
> >
> > D Walsh
>
>
> name="deniswalsh.vcf"
> filename="deniswalsh.vcf"
>
> begin:vcard
> n:Walsh;Denis
> adr:;;;;;;
> version:2.1
> email;internet:deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net
> fn:Denis Walsh
> end:vcard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
Having a engine determines the engine mount, fairing(s), cowl options & hardware
options. Once you get the engine these options you purchase fall in line. Cost
seems good on the one you found. Some builders fly with a engine like that and
plan for a overhaul in 2 or 3 years when money free up. I am of the mind that
you don't trip over engines everyday. and your going to need one eventually.
Do you want a 180 hp engine ? a 160 ? Is cost your trigger point or want of a
certain engine size your trigger point ? Cost was my sensitive point and the
160 HP I got came across came close enough to my situation/need. From there
the mount,cowl & other options were decided because of the engine I now had
chuck(at)chuckdirect.com on 07/20/2000 12:50:20 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Purchase
I don't know why I didn't address this along with the request for feedback on
the
prop. I've been offered a 150HP 0-320-E3D 1977 with all accessories, first run
high time engine of 1,850 hours. Price about $6,000. Seller says all ad's are
current thru May '00. Seller says it's "out of a company airplane, compressions
are
good, engine runs great." A 180HP engine is replacing the 150HP is the reason
for
the sale. Mags are relatively new along with the ignition harness. Carb
rebuild is
600 hrs old. It's located in the midwest and I live on the Central Coast of
California (if that makes a diff).
I'm just starting the wings on my nine. Completion date is late summer to mid
winter
of 2001. I welcome any comments any of you may have.
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re:.Mounting Vertical Card Compass/Damping?? |
After reviewing the archives on this subject I am confused!
There are a couple of posts which have successfully mounted the compass in
the instrument panel. One builder used rubber 0 rings between the compass
and the instrument panel. An other just used non-magnetic screws without
any damping.
Other posts mention problems with panel mounting.
The instruction material for the compass made PAI does not recommend panel
mounting with the implied note that electrical interference from wires and
other instruments is the culprit.
I would appreciate hearing from successful and unsuccessful installations.
Thanks, Lothar||6A final (?) cuts in instrument panel, painting canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re:.Mounting Vertical Card Compass/Damping?? |
Lothar said:
> After reviewing the archives on this subject I am confused!
>
> There are a couple of posts which have successfully mounted the compass in
> the instrument panel.
[snip!]
> I would appreciate hearing from successful and unsuccessful installations.
Here's my take. I've seen in a lot of planes where the compass gets vibrated
till it whirls around, but usually this settles down a bit after startup. I
don't think it makes a difference whether its in the panel or not, I've seen
shock mounted panels vibrate around worse than non shock mounted, especially
on start-up. Probably shock mounted panels are easier on the gyro
instruments but I wouldn't do it just for the compass.
As for electrical interference, I got most of my instruments before mounting
the compass and tried them all next to the compass. I found that even with
everything off I couldn't mount the compass in the panel anywhere near
several of the electrical instruments -- some had either magnets or
batteries or just magnetic steel in them and would pull the compass off up
to 20 degrees. I moved things around in the panel so none of these items was
too close to the top/center of the panel, then hung the compass from the
center roll bar brace. Its pretty accurate there. I'm not sure how well
you're going to be able to isolate your compass without being able to check
them against the instruments.
On the other hand I've heard but haven't confirmed that you can do a lot of
adjusting with the adjustment magnets so even if you have something that
pulls it off a fair amount you may be able to adjust to it adequately.
There are some neat electronic compasses out nowadays that would be worth
looking at too. Check the archives.
All this being said, if I had a VFR only bird and GPS I wouldn't worry a
whole lot about it.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Re:.Mounting Vertical Card Compass/Damping?? |
Lothar,
I read the same confusing stuff in the archives when it came time to mount my PAI
vertical compass. It was the instructions that said not to mount it in the
panel, and my GPS said to mount it no closer than 6" to the compass, so I mounted
it on the rollbar support of my RV-6.
You can see the installation at:
http://members3.clubphoto.com/laird244198/Laird_RV-6_N515L/
The installation works fine, although I used a firmer foam in the mount to keep
it from bouncing around to much. I must have got lucky in regards to installing
it because I used a steel screwdriver and it still worked fine (I read the
story that Kevin mentioned in AVweb AFTER I had installed it). I'm happy with
my installation.
So...here's one data point for you.
Laird RV-6 (60 fun filled hours)
SoCal
After reviewing the archives on this subject I am confused!
sniped stuff
I would appreciate hearing from successful and unsuccessful installations.
Thanks, Lothar||6A final (?) cuts in instrument panel, painting canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
--- Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
>
> I don't know why I didn't address this along with
> the request for feedback on the
> prop. I've been offered a 150HP 0-320-E3D 1977
> with all accessories, first run
> high time engine of 1,850 hours. Price about
> $6,000. Seller says all ad's are
> current thru May '00. Seller says it's "out of a
> company airplane, compressions are
> good, engine runs great." A 180HP engine is
> replacing the 150HP is the reason for
> the sale. Mags are relatively new along with the
> ignition harness. Carb rebuild is
> 600 hrs old. It's located in the midwest and I live
> on the Central Coast of
> California (if that makes a diff).
>
> I'm just starting the wings on my nine. Completion
> date is late summer to mid winter
> of 2001. I welcome any comments any of you may
> have.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Chuck Weyant
Hi Chuck
As a long-time aircraft owner and RV builder, I've
played the engine game a time or two. In my opinion,
you would be buying a core engine at a reasonable core
price. Nothing more, nothing less.
There are some advantages to having a used engine to
do all your taxi testing and you can always overhall
the mill once the aircraft is flying and all the bugs
are worked out. If I were not buying a new engine, I
would take the route you are contemplating.
One misconception I had during my project was that the
engine came last in the construction process . . . not
true. The engine, its mount and the exhaust will
determine the placement of the cowling, the routing of
the cables through the firewall, and the placement of
all the goodies on the FW. So purchasing the engine
now may be a little on the early side but not as much
as you might think.
Good luck with your decision.
Rob Miller
80153 Finishing Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re:.Mounting Vertical Card Compass/Damping?? |
Lothar, I don't remember who's planes I saw recently but both had the
VCC mounted in the panel. I asked how they worked and was told one
worked fine and the other endlessly spun. Go Figure. My B-52 compass
mounted on the glareshield works great. I finally swung (swunged?) it a
month or so ago and it is real accurate. Carolyn doesnt like it as she
always turns the wrong way when flying by it. She likes the DG better
and would love a VCC instead of the standard issue B-52 compass.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
Leaving for the big "O" first light on Monday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | deltaB(at)erols.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flexible Strip Lighting Re: RV-List Digest: 35 Msgs - 06/25/00 |
RV-List Digest Server wrote:
>
> From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flexible Strip Lighting
>
> PS - Do the latest military aircraft light with soft blue nowdays?
>
I was doing a little military HMI (non-flight related) research lately
and came across the uses for wide-band-blue (WBB). It is spec'd for use
in places where crt's are used. So if you have radar or whatnot, I'd
say go for it. Looks like red was still preferred as of 1995. Amber
was also used where the red lighing could be seen from outside. (Not to
be mistaken for nav lights, amber is used in peacetime. The original
red lenses or lights are stored for wartime use.) As far as personal
experience goes, I've seen red lighting with green crt's, WBB with
amber. It played tricks on my mind when transitioning to full spectrum
lighing (going ouside)!!
Bernie
not a builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV List RV-9A Glider Tug |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
It is interesting to see the tow hook on the 2nd RV-9A prototype. The
RV-9A would seem to be pretty suitable for glider towing with the O-320,
at least with a climb prop.
I wonder if the operating limitations on that particular airplane allow
towing. The limitations on my RV-6, as well as an experimental glider I
owned, prohibit glider towing (the question of how one glider would tow
another is left unanswered as is the question of why towing is prohibited
in an otherwise suitable homebuilt).
Larry,
Yes, the operating limitations on the new RV-9A specifically allow
glider towing because the tow rig was installed during the certification
inspection, and permission was specifically requested.
It is a standard entry in the operating limitations for all experimental
airworthiness certificate airplanes. I have no first hand info of why
but it is my guess it is because glider towing is almost exclusively a
commercial operating activity and this may be the FAA's way of making
sure you wont do that (because any commercial operating is prohibited.
If you had your own glider which would allow you to imply you would not
be doing it commercially you may be able to get approval, but I don't
know of any one who has.
Another issue is that the new RV-9A is not certified in the Amateur
built category like all other customer built RV's are.
It is certified in the Experimental, Market Survey & Crew Training
categories. This also allowed us to have only a 15 hour flight test
restriction, but their is a trade off. All of the company airplanes in
this category are required to have condition inspections every 90days or
100 hrs., and the airworthiness cert. expires every 12 months. This
requires all of the paper work and log books to be taken into big brother
FAA once each year so he can look through everything, add up all the #'s
with his calculator, and then chew us out if we missed one inspection by
1.5 hours (yes it has happened). So... their are good things about it
and bad things about it.
We haven't tried any glider towing yet but the other testing has gone
very well. We have been very surprised to find that it is only about 2-3
MPH slower in cruise than our RV-6A (much better than we had been
projecting). We will have to do further testing in the future to
determine if the prop is having any effect on that (M.T. claims that it
is a very efficient prop). We will try and do some comparisons in the
future to find out.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
This is off on a tangent somewhat but has anyone installed a digital
compass as illustrated at:
www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re:.Mounting Vertical Card Compass/Damping?? |
I rode with an RV6 builder who had a verticle card compass in his 6 and
since I have one in my Piper (and like it) and planned to put one in my
RV6A, I asked him how he liked it.
Two answers:
1. The first installation spun all over the plance ... was not useable. It
was a "lower cost" model.
2. Second installation, he loves it ... a PAI-700 (I think). Cannot remember
if his 6 is a slider of tip-up (and thus the mounting).
The take-away from this is that there seems to be a REAL difference in
quality and the PAI's can in fact be made to work satisfactorily.
James
nowhere near adding a compass ... yet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:.Mounting Vertical Card Compass/Damping??
>
> Lothar, I don't remember who's planes I saw recently but both had the
> VCC mounted in the panel. I asked how they worked and was told one
> worked fine and the other endlessly spun. Go Figure. My B-52 compass
> mounted on the glareshield works great. I finally swung (swunged?) it a
> month or so ago and it is real accurate. Carolyn doesnt like it as she
> always turns the wrong way when flying by it. She likes the DG better
> and would love a VCC instead of the standard issue B-52 compass.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A N99PZ
> Leaving for the big "O" first light on Monday.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: transition training |
I would be helpful if everyone would note their location with their
signature. If you are in the Dallas area, I could perhaps give some
advice...
AIG wants three hours in -6A with CFI prior to adding my cobuilder as a
named pilot. He has a new private license. I will checkout our local
CFI in my plane and he will give three hours instruction. Requirement
met!
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying through 250 hours
Kbeene(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> I have finished RV-6A N94KB but the insurance company says I must have a CFI
> sign off training in type. Mike Seger is not available until mid August.
> Does anyone know of a CFI with an RV-6A that can provide some transition
> training? I have a couple of hours in the right seat of 6A put not with an
> instructor that can sign off.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Hello folks
I am having some difficulty fitting the w-412 tip ribs in the
fiberglass wing tips. it seems the tip has more taper than the end rib,
so the rib touches the fiber glass towards the end but looses contact
with the inside the further it goes forward.
I am kinda leaning towards sticking 3/4 x 3/4 agle in there and make a
new web, alternatively, make a surface out of fiber glas to cover the
hole.
Any suggestions ??
Gert
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | Cherrymax rivets |
The way to remove CherryMax rivets is to punch out the steel mandrel and
drill out the body. If your patient, you should not get an oversized hole.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Glenn & Judi
> Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 09:22 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cherrymax rivets
>
>
> HCRV6(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> >
> > In a message dated 7/8/00 7:48:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > abusymom(at)pacbell.net writes:
> >
> > << Do you need a special tool for Cherrymax Rivets or can you use the
> > same pop rivet tool that you use for CS4-4s? >>
> >
> > The same tool works fine on Cherrymax rivets BUT make sure you use the
> right
> > length Cherrymax or they won't pull properly. Spend ten bucks and get a
> > Cherry rivet gauge from ACS, it's worth it.
> >
> > Harry Crosby
> > -6 (someday!)
>
> One more thing on the Cherrymax Rivets.....
>
> Another reason you should be ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE that you are about to
> pull the
> right length rivet is that once you put them in, they are EXTREMELY
> difficult to
> remove without enlarging the hole further. The mandrel on them is steel
> which
> is surrounded by the body of the rivet which is aluminum. Should you try
> and
> drill into the mandrel, there is a good chance your drill bit will walk
> right
> off it.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | transition training |
Just to add another data point in the insurance discussion. I've got 1st
flight coverage on my RV-6 without any Tech Counselor, Flight Advisor or
checkout requirements. I had my Citabria insured thru the Forest Agency's
IAC program and when I added builders insurance for the -6 it came with a
1st flight coverage endorsement. I don't know if it's due to multiple
aircraft, IAC membership, builder's coverage or 1000+ hrs of tailwheel (but
0 RV). Just something else to consider when shopping for insurance.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
Citabria sold - no more build-fly-fix decisions
I would be helpful if everyone would note their location with their
signature. If you are in the Dallas area, I could perhaps give some
advice...
AIG wants three hours in -6A with CFI prior to adding my cobuilder as a
named pilot. He has a new private license. I will checkout our local
CFI in my plane and he will give three hours instruction. Requirement
met!
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying through 250 hours
Kbeene(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> I have finished RV-6A N94KB but the insurance company says I must have a
CFI
> sign off training in type. Mike Seger is not available until mid August.
> Does anyone know of a CFI with an RV-6A that can provide some transition
> training? I have a couple of hours in the right seat of 6A put not with
an
> instructor that can sign off.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
This may seem drastic, but unless you are buying it strictly as a core, I
would pull one cylinder and check the camshaft. If it's clean with no pits
or spalling, then the engine has been run frequently during its life and
internal corrosion is probably not a problem. On many of these engines with
that time and age, you will find pitting on the cam even though they seem to
run fine.
Keep in mind the E3D model has the "small" front bearing case. As far as I
know it was used only in Piper Warriors. Nothing wrong with that; they will
run as long as any other, but you cannot upgrade this model to 160 HP by
installing high compression pistons like you can with other O-320s. Not a
problem if 150 HP is OK with you. Like the other 150 HP variants, it can
burn auto fuel. The inability to upgrade to 160 HP does keep the core value
of the E3D lower, and you might use that argument to negotiate a better
price.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "RE Miller" <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
> >
> > I don't know why I didn't address this along with
> > the request for feedback on the
> > prop. I've been offered a 150HP 0-320-E3D 1977
> > with all accessories, first run
> > high time engine of 1,850 hours. Price about
> > $6,000. Seller says all ad's are
> > current thru May '00. Seller says it's "out of a
> > company airplane, compressions are
> > good, engine runs great." A 180HP engine is
> > replacing the 150HP is the reason for
> > the sale. Mags are relatively new along with the
> > ignition harness. Carb rebuild is
> > 600 hrs old. It's located in the midwest and I live
> > on the Central Coast of
> > California (if that makes a diff).
> >
> > I'm just starting the wings on my nine. Completion
> > date is late summer to mid winter
> > of 2001. I welcome any comments any of you may
> > have.
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Chuck Weyant
>
> Hi Chuck
>
> As a long-time aircraft owner and RV builder, I've
> played the engine game a time or two. In my opinion,
> you would be buying a core engine at a reasonable core
> price. Nothing more, nothing less.
>
> There are some advantages to having a used engine to
> do all your taxi testing and you can always overhall
> the mill once the aircraft is flying and all the bugs
> are worked out. If I were not buying a new engine, I
> would take the route you are contemplating.
>
> One misconception I had during my project was that the
> engine came last in the construction process . . . not
> true. The engine, its mount and the exhaust will
> determine the placement of the cowling, the routing of
> the cables through the firewall, and the placement of
> all the goodies on the FW. So purchasing the engine
> now may be a little on the early side but not as much
> as you might think.
>
> Good luck with your decision.
>
> Rob Miller
> 80153 Finishing Fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Compas in Panel. |
My panel is not done yet, so I cant speak for the RV. I do however own a
Cherokee 180 and have the compas in the panel. I moved it from the
windshield because it vibrated too much. The original was mounted in the
panel. I experienced similiar problems in the beginning and found several
things.
Mounting the compas in a working panel can be a nightmare unless you
understand that the entire panel "could be magnatized" or a single bolt (in
my case the motor mount) due to the placement of the Battery cables.
Adjusting the compas is 'NOT' a proven science. Use non magnetic tools
to do the adjustments, and if the direction looks good on a rosette, it will
drift over a 24 hour period. It will take several adjustments to get it in
proper alignment after installed. Once aligned, it will hold solid.
Everyone has an opinion on what is wrong. Persistence is the answer.
Jim
RV8/Pa28-180
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: transition training |
The Tech Counselor and Flight Advisor programs are not just a way to get
cheap insurance, that's only a side benefit. The real reason to use them both
is SAFETY!!
Please use them both!
Dave Bristol, Tech Counselor, Flight Advisor, RV6 waiting for the DAR at CMA
Gregory Young wrote:
>
> Just to add another data point in the insurance discussion. I've got 1st
> flight coverage on my RV-6 without any Tech Counselor, Flight Advisor or
> checkout requirements...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | humberto murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
In a message dated 7/21/00 5:13:19 AM Central Daylight Time,
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com writes:
>
> Keep in mind the E3D model has the "small" front bearing case. As far as I
> know it was used only in Piper Warriors. Nothing wrong with that; they
will
> run as long as any other, but you cannot upgrade this model to 160 HP by
> installing high compression pistons like you can with other O-320s. Not a
> problem if 150 HP is OK with you. Like the other 150 HP variants, it can
> burn auto fuel. The inability to upgrade to 160 HP does keep the core
value
> of the E3D lower, and you might use that argument to negotiate a better
> price.
>
> Bob
Why is the E3D different from the E2D which RAM has the STC for 160 HP
conversion? The STC does not modify the case. Please, if you have the facts
let me know since I modified my E3D.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
RAM probably didn't run tests with the E3D. Remember this is experimental
homebuilding. I see no reason why you can't put the high compression pistons in
the E3D. We don't need any STC.
Bruce
Glasair III
Kbeene(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/21/00 5:13:19 AM Central Daylight Time,
> newmanb(at)rocketmail.com writes:
>
> >
> > Keep in mind the E3D model has the "small" front bearing case. As far as
I
> > know it was used only in Piper Warriors. Nothing wrong with that; they
> will
> > run as long as any other, but you cannot upgrade this model to 160 HP by
> > installing high compression pistons like you can with other O-320s. Not a
> > problem if 150 HP is OK with you. Like the other 150 HP variants, it can
> > burn auto fuel. The inability to upgrade to 160 HP does keep the core
> value
> > of the E3D lower, and you might use that argument to negotiate a better
> > price.
> >
> > Bob
>
> Why is the E3D different from the E2D which RAM has the STC for 160 HP
> conversion? The STC does not modify the case. Please, if you have the facts
> let me know since I modified my E3D.
>
> Ken
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Protruding tank rivets |
Hi listers,
Well I finished tank number one and am satisfied with the results. When I
countersunk for the rivets attaching the tank skin to the rear baffle, I had
thought that it was a little too deep because I didn't have much thickness
left over in the hole and in fact it seamed that some of the holes had even
enlarged slightly. Now with the rivets squeezed in with ProSeal, I find that
several are protruding out. I know this will cause a problems when it comes
time to prime - sand - paint because the primer will be sanded off the rivet
every time. Not to mention it just looks ugly to have flush rivets sticking
up. They aren't real bad, but definitely won't pass the fingernail test. Has
anyone else had this problem with the tank rivets and if so what's the cure?
Thanks
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (fuel tanks)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
Mr. Gray is right....sorta. The fact that a STC was issued to RAM for the work
&
testing they did means P L E N T Y to me. Sombody with the right knowledge,
tools & equipment did it (RAM) to prove that it was safe and possible.. I am
certainly in no condition to supply all that knowhow. Its rather cavalier to
simply say "bolt on this & that"
to get "such & such" .
brucegray(at)earthlink.net on 07/21/2000 12:40:04 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Purchase
RAM probably didn't run tests with the E3D. Remember this is experimental
homebuilding. I see no reason why you can't put the high compression pistons in
the E3D. We don't need any STC.
Bruce
Glasair III
Kbeene(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/21/00 5:13:19 AM Central Daylight Time,
> newmanb(at)rocketmail.com writes:
>
> >
> > Keep in mind the E3D model has the "small" front bearing case. As far as
I
> > know it was used only in Piper Warriors. Nothing wrong with that; they
> will
> > run as long as any other, but you cannot upgrade this model to 160 HP by
> > installing high compression pistons like you can with other O-320s. Not a
> > problem if 150 HP is OK with you. Like the other 150 HP variants, it can
> > burn auto fuel. The inability to upgrade to 160 HP does keep the core
> value
> > of the E3D lower, and you might use that argument to negotiate a better
> > price.
> >
> > Bob
>
> Why is the E3D different from the E2D which RAM has the STC for 160 HP
> conversion? The STC does not modify the case. Please, if you have the facts
> let me know since I modified my E3D.
>
> Ken
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's shipping & question |
>
> > Hi:
> > Has any one had a lot of trouble getting
> > your orders shipped from van's, within reasonable
> > time? I place an order for my Instruments gyros
> > etc. for my pannel, this was on June 26..as of today
> > 7-21-00 have not received anything...
> >
I Have not had problems with shipping. Parts are usually out within 1-3 days.
The longest time was about one working week. I also had them change an order at
the last minute without problems. Considering the number of orders that go out
each day, these few complaints are really low in number.
They also managed to track a lost shipment (UPS was screwing around with it) and
call me back within a few minutes.
I have no complaints. Perhaps if you called them, it could be resolved.
Art Glaser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
If you grab your latest edition of SSP-393 you'll see that Lycoming has several
O-320 engine varrients that use 3/8 inch prop bolt flange inserts ( small front
bearing) that have the 8.5/1 pistons.
If Lycoming runs them I don't see why you can't.
Bruce
The Cavalier Glasair III builder
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Mr. Gray is right....sorta. The fact that a STC was issued to RAM for the work
&
> testing they did means P L E N T Y to me. Sombody with the right knowledge,
> tools & equipment did it (RAM) to prove that it was safe and possible.. I am
> certainly in no condition to supply all that knowhow. Its rather cavalier to
> simply say "bolt on this & that"
> to get "such & such" .
>
> brucegray(at)earthlink.net on 07/21/2000 12:40:04 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Purchase
>
>
> RAM probably didn't run tests with the E3D. Remember this is experimental
> homebuilding. I see no reason why you can't put the high compression pistons
in
> the E3D. We don't need any STC.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
> Kbeene(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> >
> > In a message dated 7/21/00 5:13:19 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > newmanb(at)rocketmail.com writes:
> >
> > >
> > > Keep in mind the E3D model has the "small" front bearing case. As far as
I
> > > know it was used only in Piper Warriors. Nothing wrong with that; they
> > will
> > > run as long as any other, but you cannot upgrade this model to 160 HP by
> > > installing high compression pistons like you can with other O-320s. Not
a
> > > problem if 150 HP is OK with you. Like the other 150 HP variants, it can
> > > burn auto fuel. The inability to upgrade to 160 HP does keep the core
> > value
> > > of the E3D lower, and you might use that argument to negotiate a better
> > > price.
> > >
> > > Bob
> >
> > Why is the E3D different from the E2D which RAM has the STC for 160 HP
> > conversion? The STC does not modify the case. Please, if you have the facts
> > let me know since I modified my E3D.
> >
> > Ken
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
Thanks everyone for all the responses. I've mailed off the check. Most said,
"Go
for it." So go for it I am. Worst case, I have to build up a first run engine
perhaps. But it sounds like I should probably expect to get anywhere from 200
to
1,000 hours out of it and then overhaul it. One guy I spoke with at the airport
says he recently got 3,400 from his 0-320-E3D! He recommends regular oil analysis
though.
After it's delivered, my friend Les (A&P) says he'll check it out. The company
I've
purchased it from has given me a 30 day money back guarantee including shipping.
So
why not? Now all I need is the fuselage kit, the finish kit, the upholstery, the
paint, the instruments and I'm flying!!! Whew! One step at a time.
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Protruding tank rivets |
Have you tried a rivet shaver ? I used the poor mans version...a dremel with a
sanding drum and a careful hand. Primer & top coat can get thick...would that
(total) paint thickness smooth out any protruding rivets ??
ENewton57(at)aol.com on 07/21/2000 01:37:41 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Protruding tank rivets
Hi listers,
Well I finished tank number one and am satisfied with the results. When I
countersunk for the rivets attaching the tank skin to the rear baffle, I had
thought that it was a little too deep because I didn't have much thickness
left over in the hole and in fact it seamed that some of the holes had even
enlarged slightly. Now with the rivets squeezed in with ProSeal, I find that
several are protruding out. I know this will cause a problems when it comes
time to prime - sand - paint because the primer will be sanded off the rivet
every time. Not to mention it just looks ugly to have flush rivets sticking
up. They aren't real bad, but definitely won't pass the fingernail test. Has
anyone else had this problem with the tank rivets and if so what's the cure?
Thanks
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (fuel tanks)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RF exposure hazards . . . |
> . . . . Considering the transponder only
>transmits a low duty cycle burst and is receiving most of the time, it's
>probably not a problem. This also would fall under the guidelines for a
>controlled environment, meaning the occupants can be told they are sitting in
>an RF field, and the transmitter can be turned off if so desired. Between
>the low power and intermittent low power transmit, I would be pretty certain
>everybody will be fine. It certainly is an area worth learning a little bit
>about. It's a complex concept, and isn't always fully understood by even the
>experts. I still think getting the antennas as far away from the
occupants is
>a good idea.
>> . . . . . In the prototype we installed it outside the
>> shell, below the passenger seat, and then had the whole area above the
>> composite shell covered with a thin alum sheet to act as the ground plane
>> and to protect the passenger from any radiation. (Remember, I was the
>> one who sat on the passenger side in all those demos). I always wondered
>> how effective the alum sheet was in protecting my body. So far, so good.
Concerns for radiation safety and transponders surface from
time to time in aviation circles . . . especially when some
folk read that certain models of tranpsonders put out "600 Watts".
Flags go up and statements are made to the effect, "Gee, my microwave
oven is only 600 watts and it will really toast things . . ."
The "600 Watt Out" and the "toasty foods" are both true statments
but unrelated to each other. Tranponders are rated for PEAK power
output during the few tens of microseconds/second while replying to
an interrogation. Microwave ovens are rated in CONTINUOUS or
HEATING power output which will indeed "toast things".
A transponder's very low AVERAGE power output, presents no
hazard even at 600 watts peak. Most modern transponders
are rated at only 100 to 200 watts peak . . . the need for big
transmitters has evaporated given improvements in solid
state receiving amplifers used at modern radar sites.
Long and Vari-Ez builders were oft cautioned about shielding
the family jewels from ravages of "tranponsder onslaught"
and the practice were unfounded in physics.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Van's shipping & question |
Bert, if you are on the east coast, have Van's ship by Federal Express. I am
in south Florida and have gotten good-sized boxes in four days, where by UPS
it was taking two weeks. Have them put a note in your file to ship by Fedex,
it will cost less also. Andy Johnson, fuselage prep
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
Gert,
You can trim off the aft end of the rib as much as you need to avoid the extra
thickness in the aft portion of the wingtip that reinforces the edge, and shift
the rib back to match the taper. There is plenty of length in the rib to stiffen
the wingtip even if you cut off an inch or two.
Hope this helps.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ inspection on 7/28
first flight will be that afternoon wind and weather permitting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
If thats the case, I 100% concur. What about the con rods P/N, the con rod
bolts, crank P/N & cam P/N. If all the innerds of the 150 hp engine are
comprised of the same part numbers (P/N) of the 160 horse engine.......I think
everything is cool. Now,..... about that data plate....... A true conversion
with a data plate to match means money to the right person. I would value a
experimental conversion and a true conversion differently. So might the
insurance company. Also, technically speaking ( but probably never enforced
because its hard to tell a certified engine from a experimental ....in the case
at hand ) is the mater of FAA fly-off time. A experimental engine or pop gets
about twice the time to fly off the restriction than a "certified one".
brucegray(at)earthlink.net on 07/21/2000 02:20:07 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Purchase
If you grab your latest edition of SSP-393 you'll see that Lycoming has several
O-320 engine varrients that use 3/8 inch prop bolt flange inserts ( small front
bearing) that have the 8.5/1 pistons.
If Lycoming runs them I don't see why you can't.
Bruce
The Cavalier Glasair III builder
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Mr. Gray is right....sorta. The fact that a STC was issued to RAM for the work
&
> testing they did means P L E N T Y to me. Sombody with the right knowledge,
> tools & equipment did it (RAM) to prove that it was safe and possible.. I am
> certainly in no condition to supply all that knowhow. Its rather cavalier to
> simply say "bolt on this & that"
> to get "such & such" .
>
> brucegray(at)earthlink.net on 07/21/2000 12:40:04 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Purchase
>
>
> RAM probably didn't run tests with the E3D. Remember this is experimental
> homebuilding. I see no reason why you can't put the high compression pistons
in
> the E3D. We don't need any STC.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
>
> Kbeene(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> >
> > In a message dated 7/21/00 5:13:19 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > newmanb(at)rocketmail.com writes:
> >
> > >
> > > Keep in mind the E3D model has the "small" front bearing case. As far as
I
> > > know it was used only in Piper Warriors. Nothing wrong with that; they
> > will
> > > run as long as any other, but you cannot upgrade this model to 160 HP by
> > > installing high compression pistons like you can with other O-320s. Not
a
> > > problem if 150 HP is OK with you. Like the other 150 HP variants, it can
> > > burn auto fuel. The inability to upgrade to 160 HP does keep the core
> > value
> > > of the E3D lower, and you might use that argument to negotiate a better
> > > price.
> > >
> > > Bob
> >
> > Why is the E3D different from the E2D which RAM has the STC for 160 HP
> > conversion? The STC does not modify the case. Please, if you have the
facts
> > let me know since I modified my E3D.
> >
> > Ken
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Design 6-A |
Hi Ross:
Just reviewing our messages and you mentioned that you would run 1/4 to the
carb. I think you meant 3/8 as the whole fuel system would normally be run
in 3/8 ?
Eustace
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Date: Thursday, July 20, 2000 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel System Design 6-A
>Hi Ross:
>
>Your idea should work just fine. I use steel braided pressure tested lines
>firewall forward and plan it so as to relieve as much stress and vibration
>as possible on all the fittings.
>
>Regards
>
>Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B. C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
>To: RV-List ; Eustace Bowhay
>Date: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 12:47 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel System Design 6-A
>
>
>>
>>TO: Eustace Bowhay
>> (as always...others are also welcome to respond)
>>
>>I would like to copy the fuel system that you described in a post last
>>February. (see below) This change, however, does not allow for the usual
>>placement of the solenoid driven primer line....taken off of the
>>gascolator...because the fuel pump is located on the engine side of the
>>gascolator and therefore the gascolator is not pressurized in your system.
>>My thought is to put a "T" in the fuel line at the bulkhead fitting at the
>>firewall penetration point. This "T" would run 1/4" to the carburetor and
>>be reduced to 1/8" to the primer solenoid. Do you see any problems with
>>this?
>>
>>Ross Mickey
>>6-A 9PT (reserved)
>>
>>"Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6 and
>6A
>>as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect both
>>tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator installed in
>>the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side ahead of
>>the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator in
the
>>same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
>>short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the
bottom
>>fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved the
>>gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
>>handy to drain and to have it low enough that it can be drained without
the
>>boost pump on. All that is required is to have the fuel selector on."
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
A check of the revenant parts manuals should answer your questions. Not having
one
handy but being very familiar with Lycomings modular approach to engine design
philosophy, let me take a WAG (wild ass guess).
Cylinders - same
Con Rods - same
Cam - same
Con rod bolts - same
Crank - different part number because of the different size prop flange but
otherwise identical to an O320E2
The flyoff time, if the pistons were replaced before first flight, would go to
40
hours. If replaced after the first 25 hours, just a logbook notation and 5 test
hours are all that's needed.
Value, I don't know about that one.
Bruce
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> If thats the case, I 100% concur. What about the con rods P/N, the con rod
> bolts, crank P/N & cam P/N. If all the innerds of the 150 hp engine are
> comprised of the same part numbers (P/N) of the 160 horse engine.......I think
> everything is cool. Now,..... about that data plate....... A true conversion
> with a data plate to match means money to the right person. I would value a
> experimental conversion and a true conversion differently. So might the
> insurance company. Also, technically speaking ( but probably never enforced
> because its hard to tell a certified engine from a experimental ....in the case
> at hand ) is the mater of FAA fly-off time. A experimental engine or pop gets
> about twice the time to fly off the restriction than a "certified one".
>
> brucegray(at)earthlink.net on 07/21/2000 02:20:07 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Purchase
>
>
> If you grab your latest edition of SSP-393 you'll see that Lycoming has several
> O-320 engine varrients that use 3/8 inch prop bolt flange inserts ( small front
> bearing) that have the 8.5/1 pistons.
>
> If Lycoming runs them I don't see why you can't.
>
> Bruce
> The Cavalier Glasair III builder
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Mr. Gray is right....sorta. The fact that a STC was issued to RAM for the work
> &
> > testing they did means P L E N T Y to me. Sombody with the right knowledge,
> > tools & equipment did it (RAM) to prove that it was safe and possible.. I am
> > certainly in no condition to supply all that knowhow. Its rather cavalier to
> > simply say "bolt on this & that"
> > to get "such & such" .
> >
> > brucegray(at)earthlink.net on 07/21/2000 12:40:04 PM
> >
> > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Purchase
> >
> >
> > RAM probably didn't run tests with the E3D. Remember this is experimental
> > homebuilding. I see no reason why you can't put the high compression pistons
> in
> > the E3D. We don't need any STC.
> >
> > Bruce
> > Glasair III
> >
> > Kbeene(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 7/21/00 5:13:19 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > > newmanb(at)rocketmail.com writes:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Keep in mind the E3D model has the "small" front bearing case. As far
as
> I
> > > > know it was used only in Piper Warriors. Nothing wrong with that; they
> > > will
> > > > run as long as any other, but you cannot upgrade this model to 160 HP
by
> > > > installing high compression pistons like you can with other O-320s. Not
> a
> > > > problem if 150 HP is OK with you. Like the other 150 HP variants, it
can
> > > > burn auto fuel. The inability to upgrade to 160 HP does keep the core
> > > value
> > > > of the E3D lower, and you might use that argument to negotiate a better
> > > > price.
> > > >
> > > > Bob
> > >
> > > Why is the E3D different from the E2D which RAM has the STC for 160 HP
> > > conversion? The STC does not modify the case. Please, if you have the
> facts
> > > let me know since I modified my E3D.
> > >
> > > Ken
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Purchase |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> If thats the case, I 100% concur. What about the con rods P/N, the con rod
> bolts, crank P/N & cam P/N. If all the innerds of the 150 hp engine are
> comprised of the same part numbers (P/N) of the 160 horse engine.......I think
> everything is cool. Now,..... about that data plate....... A true conversion
> with a data plate to match means money to the right person. I would value a
> experimental conversion and a true conversion differently. So might the
> insurance company. Also, technically speaking ( but probably never enforced
> because its hard to tell a certified engine from a experimental ....in the case
> at hand ) is the mater of FAA fly-off time. A experimental engine or pop gets
> about twice the time to fly off the restriction than a "certified one".
>
The time difference is usually 25 hours verses 40 hours,
that is 15 hours different not twice as much. Even a
so called certified engine on an experimental will usually
get the higher hours if the prop/engine combination
is not certified for that particular engine.
I see way to much time given to the data plate. Even if
you get a repairman certificate the minute you do some
work on your "certified engine" that is normally done by
an A&P your engine becomes experimental unless you
have the work supervised and signed by a licensed mechanic
or inspector.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Graham <gary(at)colonialmortgage.net> |
| Subject: | Wiring flap relay |
I am trying to wire two flap switches, one is a stick mounted and new the
flap relay, the other is panel mounted and is heavy enough to carry the
current load without a relay. Can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram
to accomplish this?
Off list replies are perfect.
As usual everyone is a great help. Thanks for the support.
Gary Graham
RV-8 N202RV
should be flying before the snow flies (Phoenix)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Protruding tank rivets |
Hello Eric,
You just described my tanks. My solution was to go ahead and paint. My RV-6
is pictured on Doug Reeves' white pages under RV of the Week. Look there
and see if you can tell how detrimental or ugly this is.
No, really, I don't mean to be so harsh. I didn't do anything to them.
Oneone has ever mentioned those rivets nor my other screwups. People just
say what a nice RV it is. Don't worry about it and move on.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 Flying and loving it
Melbourne, FL
>From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Protruding tank rivets
>Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 13:37:41 EDT
>
>
>Hi listers,
>Well I finished tank number one and am satisfied with the results. When I
>countersunk for the rivets attaching the tank skin to the rear baffle, I
>had
>thought that it was a little too deep because I didn't have much thickness
>left over in the hole and in fact it seamed that some of the holes had even
>enlarged slightly. Now with the rivets squeezed in with ProSeal, I find
>that
>several are protruding out. I know this will cause a problems when it
>comes
>time to prime - sand - paint because the primer will be sanded off the
>rivet
>every time. Not to mention it just looks ugly to have flush rivets sticking
>up. They aren't real bad, but definitely won't pass the fingernail test.
>Has
>anyone else had this problem with the tank rivets and if so what's the
>cure?
>Thanks
>
>Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
>RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (fuel tanks)
> Eric's RV-6A
>Construction Page
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | wiring & interference |
Hi,
I have some wires I need to get from the aft side of the spar up to the
panel. Do I need to seperate either of the antenna wires from the
bundle up to the panel to keep "noise" out of the comm radio? Here is
the list of wires:
Transponder Coax
Comm Coax
Ldg Lt
Taxi Lt
Stall Warning
Pitot heat
Fuel level senders
OAT temp
Nav Lts.
Strobe Lts.
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Yeah...
Well here in Coalinga, Ca. we fly 365 days & nights a year! And we only
have to use our spatulas 345 days (and only 138 nights) a year to pry our
tires off the tarmac when it's over 115 degrees Fahrenheit. We also
specialize in rebuilding radiators for our oil coolers.
Chuck
P.S. I just got back from visiting my relatives and their 6 legged birds
(aka-mosquitoes)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | JJ Fund: Referral Money |
Eustace,
Money for the Jon Johanson fund -
Donators via PayPal Referrals:
Roy Vosberg $5
Wayne Williams $5
Dave Biddle $5
William Costello $5
Plain Donations:
Roy Vosberg also sent me $20 via PayPal, which I'll forward to you.
And an additional $20 from me.
So, that makes $60 total, made out to Jon, sent to you 7/22 via snail mail.
Let me know if there are any problems.
PS- There were four other people listed on my PayPal referral log as
Pending. I recognized one of these as someone outside the US. So I will
assume that is the case for all four of them. None of them will bear $5
fruit, as PayPal only works in the US.
Thanks,
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's shipping & question |
Part of the problem is the timing of your order. Everyone is ordering parts
trying to be ready for oshkosh.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Van's shipping & question |
Haven't had any "major" problems, remember that they are shipping a couple
hundred sub assembly kits per month, while moving their entire operation into
a new facility. Not to mention losing their GM. Lets be patient.
Kevin Shannon
-9A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
OK Guys, Last Call before Oshkosh. This is the latest List. Remember to
be there at 6pm for the no host bar on the rear lawn. Our group will meet
at the east side of the crowd. (The side the Lake is on).
Cecil
1. Tom Clark
2. Joe Morin
3. Frank Sykes
4. Kevin Horton, RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
5. Al Mojzisik
6. Louise Coats, (New Zealand)
7. Maria Styles/Heleborus, (Australia)
8. Len Leggette, RV-8A North Carolina
9. Jack Fromm
10. Larry Bowen
11. Jim PIckrell, RV-8
12. Jeff Orear
13. Steve Weddle
14. Steve Davis, Panel Pilot
15. Steve Davis Friend
16. Bruce Knoll
17. Bruce Knoll friend
18. Les Rowles, Traralgon Australia.
19.Tom Velvick, rv-6a
20. Kellen Velvick
21. John Fasching, RV6A Salida CO
22. Jim Farmer Camarillo CA
23. Carroll Bird Buffalo Gap, TX
24. Glenn Williams 8A A&P
25. Bernie Kerr
26. Mark Phillips Columbia TN RV-6A
27. Cecil Hatfield, Son Tim and Grand daughter Mandy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 12:18:55 -0400 |
I went and bought a gallon each of 'Alumiprep 33' and 'Alodine 1201' by
'Henkel Surface Technologies'. Both of these are mil-spec and were about
$100 together.
The instructions say to dilute the Alumiprep with 2 or 3 parts water. It
does however not say to dilute the Alodine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet |
Re: RV-6, Hartzell CS, O-360, S-Cowl
I have my lower "S" cowl fit nicely with just over 1/8" clearance in front
between the spinner. When I place the top cowl in position for mating with
the lower, it can't drop straight down because of the curved hook shape of
the lower cowl at the outboard air inlet. One side is not as bad as the
other. I have removed a small portion of the hook material in order to pry
on the top cowl. This doesn't seem right to have to pry it into position
like this. My question: Should I (1) remove most of the hook, or (2)
weaken it so it can more easily be bent, (3) The plans don't show a plate
nut in this location, so the hook may be required. Any thoughts will be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel System Design 6-A |
What would be wrong with using two gascolators, one on each side in the
spaces between the tanks and the fuselage. It would obviously increase
the cost by one gascolator and slightly increase weight. But it would
simplify the installation, reduce the lines in the cockpit, and not
require the fuel selector to be on in order to drain either gascolator.
I like the idea of getting the gascolator out of the engine compartment
for two reasons. One is the heat. The other reason is to reduce the fire
danger in an accident. If the gascolator is mounted low in the engine
compartment, it is in jeopardy of being ripped off in any accident where
the cowl hits the ground. With the gascolator ripped off, the boost pump
(assuming it is on for landing or takeoff) would be feeding lots of gas
to any potential fire.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB
----------------------------------------------
>>"Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6
and 6A
>>as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect both
>>tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator
installed in
>>the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side
ahead of
>>the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator
in the
>>same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
>>short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the bottom
>>fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved the
>>gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
>>handy to drain and to have it low enough that it can be drained
without the
>>boost pump on. All that is required is to have the fuel selector on."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet |
I had to grind away a major portion of both hooks as well as the inboard
overlap sections. Cowl fitting was very frustrating because I could not
repeat the exact placement after removing the cowls for trimming. Once I
discovered that the nesting sections were improperly mated and I ground
them away, cowl fitting was much smoother. I did nothing to reinforce the
hook area but I do have a very solid aluminum-plate reinforcement at the
inboard sections.
Dennis Persyk 6A end in sight
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 11:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet
>
>Re: RV-6, Hartzell CS, O-360, S-Cowl
>I have my lower "S" cowl fit nicely with just over 1/8" clearance in front
>between the spinner. When I place the top cowl in position for mating with
>the lower, it can't drop straight down because of the curved hook shape of
>the lower cowl at the outboard air inlet. One side is not as bad as the
>other. I have removed a small portion of the hook material in order to pry
>on the top cowl. This doesn't seem right to have to pry it into position
>like this. My question: Should I (1) remove most of the hook, or (2)
>weaken it so it can more easily be bent, (3) The plans don't show a plate
>nut in this location, so the hook may be required. Any thoughts will be
>appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Tom Barnes -6 finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Blade Type Fuses |
Cessna Service Bulletin SB00-24-01 calls out replacing the blade type fuses
in the main power junction box with resetable circuit breakers. "The blade
type fuses can become loose in their fuse holders causing partial or
complete loss of electrical power from the main power junction box."
The service bulletins on the new Cessnas have the full effect of an AD so
this is going to be very expensive for the owners past the warranty period.
I hope Electric Bob will give us guidance so the mistakes of Cessna are not
repeated by RV builders who elect to use blade type fuses.
Dennis Persyk 6A end in sight
C38 Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet |
In a message dated 7/22/00 1:17:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
skytop(at)corecomm.net writes:
<< Re: RV-6, Hartzell CS, O-360, S-Cowl
I have my lower "S" cowl fit nicely with just over 1/8" clearance in front
between the spinner. When I place the top cowl in position for mating with
the lower, it can't drop straight down because of the curved hook shape of
the lower cowl at the outboard air inlet. One side is not as bad as the
other. I have removed a small portion of the hook material in order to pry
on the top cowl. This doesn't seem right to have to pry it into position
like this. My question: Should I (1) remove most of the hook, or (2)
weaken it so it can more easily be bent, (3) The plans don't show a plate
nut in this location, so the hook may be required. Any thoughts will be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6 finishing >>
Tom,
What Dennis said is correct. Cut away as much of this material as you need
to make the cowl fit.
Also, I couldn't help but notice that you've only got 1/8" of clearance
between the cowl and spinner. I've got between 3/8 and 1/2" on mine, and it
is still a bear to get the bottom cowl off. From a maintenance standpoint, I
suggest all builders who are using hinges on the sides of the lower cowl make
sure to leave enough of a spinner/cowl gap to allow the entire cowl to slide
forward so the hinge eyes on the sides can completely disengage. This allows
the cowl to drop veritcally for removal (assuming you can easily clear your
gear leg fairings - some composite aftermarket ones make this a little more difficult, because they are wider than the
stock fairings.).
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Digital compass |
Will: Which model digital compass did you use???Jim Brown,NJ, RV-3&4..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet |
Thanks Dennis and Kyle for the feedback. I just whacked away the hook with
the DA sander and what a difference! Not only does it go on easier, it
makes for a smoother transition at the junction of the two pieces around the
front.
The thought of having to trim another 1/4" all the way around is sort of
sickening considering the efforts to this point to get a flush fit at the
firewall, but I suppose it is a small pain considering the embarrassment
that I would face later.
Many thanks,
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet
>
> In a message dated 7/22/00 1:17:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> skytop(at)corecomm.net writes:
>
> << Re: RV-6, Hartzell CS, O-360, S-Cowl
> I have my lower "S" cowl fit nicely with just over 1/8" clearance in
front
> between the spinner. When I place the top cowl in position for mating
with
> the lower, it can't drop straight down because of the curved hook shape
of
> the lower cowl at the outboard air inlet. One side is not as bad as the
> other. I have removed a small portion of the hook material in order to
pry
> on the top cowl. This doesn't seem right to have to pry it into position
> like this. My question: Should I (1) remove most of the hook, or (2)
> weaken it so it can more easily be bent, (3) The plans don't show a plate
> nut in this location, so the hook may be required. Any thoughts will be
> appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Tom Barnes -6 finishing >>
>
>
> Tom,
>
> What Dennis said is correct. Cut away as much of this material as you
need
> to make the cowl fit.
>
> Also, I couldn't help but notice that you've only got 1/8" of clearance
> between the cowl and spinner. I've got between 3/8 and 1/2" on mine, and
it
> is still a bear to get the bottom cowl off. From a maintenance
standpoint, I
> suggest all builders who are using hinges on the sides of the lower cowl
make
> sure to leave enough of a spinner/cowl gap to allow the entire cowl to
slide
> forward so the hinge eyes on the sides can completely disengage. This
allows
> the cowl to drop veritcally for removal (assuming you can easily clear
your
> gear leg fairings - some composite aftermarket ones instance> make this a little more difficult, because they are wider than
the
> stock fairings.).
>
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Flap Rigging |
I'm rigging my flaps, and have it faired to the aileron. I used the tooling
holes in the end rib and aileron to align the aileron in the trail position.
With the flap faired to the aileron I have about a 1/2" gap between the
trailing edge of the flap and the fuselage, meaning the flap does not nest
up against the fuselage. Is this correct?
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Richardson Jr." <sales(at)powersportaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Powersport's RV-6A flying |
Dear RV's,
Powersport's RV-6A has flown 38 Hours as of this morning,
13 days after sign off.
Yesterday we recorded 7 hours, most as acrobatic time doing:
loops, rolls, 3 turn spins right and left, hammerheads, ect.
We committed to build the RV-8 package to 2 builders who came
from California watched the show and ordered 2 engines.The
remaining 2 hours should be done when the plane returns today.
We will fly to Oshkosh tomorrow and park with the other RV's
We hope to install wheel pants, fairings, and prop spinner on
the test prop tonight. Our Demo 3 blade MT constant speed Prop
will not be here in time for Oshkosh.
Total time on engine 80 hours, time in the air 38 and climbing.
Time spent cleaning up airframe, and painting, -0- .
Beautification will have to wait.
Please stop in and see us at Oshkosh.
Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | RMD installation video? |
Does anyone have a copy of the Orndorff RMD wingtip light installation
video available for sale or loan?
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
riveting fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Design 6-A |
Charles,
Yes, that would work and also prohibit and junk to pass through the fuel
valve and electric pump. But, I have proven that it is unnecessary. I have
one Andair gascolator mounted in the right wing downstream of the valve &
facet pump. At my 100 hr inspection last week, the filter worked cause of
the junk I washed out. Neither the valve nor the pump were affected but the
debris flowing through it.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 Just had some spin training today. Really starts to wind up after two
turns. recovery before two turns was very quick but after two turns, took
another turn or so.
Melbourne, FL
>From: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-List
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel System Design 6-A
>Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 12:19:41 -0500
>
>
>What would be wrong with using two gascolators, one on each side in the
>spaces between the tanks and the fuselage. It would obviously increase
>the cost by one gascolator and slightly increase weight. But it would
>simplify the installation, reduce the lines in the cockpit, and not
>require the fuel selector to be on in order to drain either gascolator.
>
>I like the idea of getting the gascolator out of the engine compartment
>for two reasons. One is the heat. The other reason is to reduce the fire
>danger in an accident. If the gascolator is mounted low in the engine
>compartment, it is in jeopardy of being ripped off in any accident where
>the cowl hits the ground. With the gascolator ripped off, the boost pump
>(assuming it is on for landing or takeoff) would be feeding lots of gas
>to any potential fire.
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6A QB
>
>----------------------------------------------
>
> >>"Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6
>and 6A
> >>as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect
>both
> >>tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator
>installed in
> >>the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side
>ahead of
> >>the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator
>in the
> >>same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
> >>short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the
>bottom
> >>fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved
>the
> >>gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
> >>handy to drain and to have it low enough that it can be drained
>without the
> >>boost pump on. All that is required is to have the fuel selector on."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blade Type Fuses |
>
>
>Cessna Service Bulletin SB00-24-01 calls out replacing the blade type fuses
>in the main power junction box with resetable circuit breakers. "The blade
>type fuses can become loose in their fuse holders causing partial or
>complete loss of electrical power from the main power junction box."
>The service bulletins on the new Cessnas have the full effect of an AD so
>this is going to be very expensive for the owners past the warranty period.
>I hope Electric Bob will give us guidance so the mistakes of Cessna are not
>repeated by RV builders who elect to use blade type fuses.
>Dennis Persyk 6A end in sight
>C38 Hampshire, IL
Looks like another ridiculous waste of space and Cessna Aircraft owner's
money. Yet another reason to build your own airplane! If Cessna used Radio
Crap....uh SHACK quality fuse holders then maybe it is warranted. I used
Cole Hersey fuse blocks and Bussman blade fuses in my RV, have 110 hours on
it, and no problems at all. Use good quality stuff to begin with, and all
will be fine for the long haul.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
plane outta service for paint job.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Wing Wire Conduit Question |
I have heard of people using PVC or similar conduit in the wings for conduit
for running electrical wire. Has anyone done this and could provide some
guidance?? I have 1/2" OD PVC pipe, do I drill the hole in the ribs to 1/2"
so the fit tight, or larger and included a grommet?? If a grommet, what
type?? Any help (pictures?) etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wire Conduit Question |
Mike, using PVC is a common method for wiring runs inside the wing. I am
building an -8 and used thin wall PVC pipe (I forget what diameter) and used
a Unibit step drill to open the hole to match the outside diameter of the
pipe. No grommet was necessary. Re: the location, I recommend (for the -8
anyway) that you consider running the pipe through the upper portion of the
wing ribs. This way, you can rivet the top skins on and run the PVC pipe
through the ribs while you have the bottom skins off. Running the pipe
through the upper portion of the rib should not present a problem in bucking
rivets for the bottom skin. When planning where you're going to route your
pipe, be sure to consider the location of the aileron bellcrank and
pushrods.
Mark Dickens
-8 Wings Done and Cradled---Fuse Starts After Oshkosh!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 3:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Wire Conduit Question
>
> I have heard of people using PVC or similar conduit in the wings for
conduit
> for running electrical wire. Has anyone done this and could provide some
> guidance?? I have 1/2" OD PVC pipe, do I drill the hole in the ribs to
1/2"
> so the fit tight, or larger and included a grommet?? If a grommet, what
> type?? Any help (pictures?) etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> -Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wire Conduit Question |
Mike:
I used the conduit that Van's sells....nice and light. the pvc pipe you
mention will work fine tho. Just cut out holes that will allow you to send
the pipe through them without distorting them (i.e. from a too tight hole)
and then what I did is prosealed the conduit to each rib. Keeps it from
vibrating and in my case cutting through the conduit and then having nasty
things happen to the wires inside.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
closing second wing, Oshkosh here I come
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wire Conduit Question |
--- Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I have heard of people using PVC or similar conduit in the wings for
> conduit
> for running electrical wire. Has anyone done this and could provide
> some
> guidance?? I have 1/2" OD PVC pipe, do I drill the hole in the ribs
> to 1/2"
> so the fit tight, or larger and included a grommet??
Mike,
Drill for the OD and then just spin (screw) the PVC through the holes.
After you drill the ribs, you'll deburr the hole and that will relieve
the tightness a lot - but keep it to a minimum so the conduit will stay
in place.
You're not likely to get all the holes in exactly the same spot - and
even if you do (elaborate jig on the drill press, like I did), the ribs
will move during installation.
The point is that the line of holes for the conduit running down the
ribs after riveting won't be perfect, so even some play in individual
holes will not matter as the conduit snakes its way down the ribs.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Flap Rigging |
>
>
>I'm rigging my flaps, and have it faired to the aileron. I used the
>tooling
>holes in the end rib and aileron to align the aileron in the trail
>position.
>With the flap faired to the aileron I have about a 1/2" gap between the
>trailing edge of the flap and the fuselage, meaning the flap does not nest
>up against the fuselage. Is this correct?
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q 80591
Mike,
This is a tricky area indeed. This is where your aileron rigging, pushrod
lengths, wingtips, wing incidence, etc all come into play to give you some
unique result here. My flaps are in about the same position as yours, but
maybe just a bit higher. The bottom surface of the flaps *should* nest up
flush against the belly of the airplane. Ideally, the entire wing trailing
edge should be one continuous line with no flap, aileron or wing tip lower
or higher than the others. Alas, we don't live in a pefect world so your
results WILL vary! A half inch of flap droop won't account to much and
you're still gonna be haulin' the freight in your RV8, so "just make it
work". (Van's patented answer to most issues like this. Funny how it's
usually the best answer!).
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
110 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet |
> Also, I couldn't help but notice that you've only got 1/8" of
> clearance
> between the cowl and spinner. I've got between 3/8 and 1/2" on mine,
> and it
> is still a bear to get the bottom cowl off. From a maintenance
> standpoint, I
> suggest all builders who are using hinges on the sides of the lower
> cowl make
> sure to leave enough of a spinner/cowl gap to allow the entire cowl
> to slide
> forward so the hinge eyes on the sides can completely disengage.
But not from a performance standpoint.
I have been reading (and re-reading) Kent Paser's book "Speed with
Economy" and one of his recommended aerodynamic clean-ups is to reduce
the spinner-to-cowl joint to as little as possible.
Does it matter a lot?
- but it's all the little things that add up (like leg intersection
fairings).
Might be worth the extra work to figure out how to install the cowl and
keep the 1/8" clearance.
Just a data point...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
I'm priming the internal pieces of the empennage with Aluminum primer (Close
to Zinc Chromate).
What do you use to best clean the pieces before priming?
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6A emp
CF-SND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
Steve, I use Sherwin-Williams UltraClean. It's mostly Naphtha and when I
run out of it, that's what I'll buy as a replacement. I hear Coleman Fuel
is a good cheap replacement for this...
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Hurlbut <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 5:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Priming emp
>
> I'm priming the internal pieces of the empennage with Aluminum primer
(Close
> to Zinc Chromate).
> What do you use to best clean the pieces before priming?
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-6A emp
> CF-SND
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | humberto murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi:
I am in the process of installing side steps for my
rv6a. There most be a way, easier than what I am
going thru. There is no room between ribs, to use
anything, but file and muscle...I am talking of course
the hole that goes thru the floor rib...
One would need a long extension, with ?
I am almost finished left one, but,,any suggestions
of those who already completed this task?
thanks in advance
Bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Lister's,
My 8A has just past the FAA inspection, safe for flight.
I was issued a 25 hour test phase one.
I used the local office here in Dallas.
A few things that happened to me.
The inspector crawled all over the A/C for about 2 hours looking at the
overall fit & finish checking things. He had a checklist.
He then asked for me to re-assemble the A/C in a ready for flight condition
to witness the engine running, seeing that all the engine gauges worked,
are operating in the proper range. He asked for a break check & for me to
cycle the prop.
It took 2 hours on Friday & 2 hours on Saturday to complete the process.
This seems different than what I have other builders have experienced.
It was in my opinion a good inspection & a painless process.
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX
Transition Training next week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | garrett(at)thesocket.com (Matt Garrett) |
Jasco Metal Etch, can be found at almost any hardware store.
Matt
RV-6 elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 3:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Priming emp
I'm priming the internal pieces of the empennage with Aluminum primer (Close
to Zinc Chromate).
What do you use to best clean the pieces before priming?
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6A emp
CF-SND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
I used a Hole saw with a 12" extension at slow speed on my RV-6AQB after
struggling with the first one. Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon - RV-6AQB Engine stuff
> [Original Message]
> From: humberto murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Date: 7/22/00 7:48:31 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Steps
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I am in the process of installing side steps for my
> rv6a. There most be a way, easier than what I am
> going thru. There is no room between ribs, to use
> anything, but file and muscle...I am talking of course
> the hole that goes thru the floor rib...
> One would need a long extension, with ?
>
> I am almost finished left one, but,,any suggestions
> of those who already completed this task?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Bert
> rv6a
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Protruding tank rivets |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
Hi listers,
Well I finished tank number one and am satisfied with the results. When
I
countersunk for the rivets attaching the tank skin to the rear baffle, I
had
thought that it was a little too deep because I didn't have much
thickness
left over in the hole and in fact it seamed that some of the holes had
even
enlarged slightly. Now with the rivets squeezed in with ProSeal, I find
that
several are protruding out. I know this will cause a problems when it
comes
time to prime - sand - paint because the primer will be sanded off the
rivet
every time. Not to mention it just looks ugly to have flush rivets
sticking
up. They aren't real bad, but definitely won't pass the fingernail test.
Has
anyone else had this problem with the tank rivets and if so what's the
cure?
Thanks
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
The simplest way to hide them is ignore it now and wait until final
finish painting. Prime this area heavily. Before applying the finish
coat, lightly block sand over the area. It will level out the rivet
bumps and it will mostly disappear when the final paint goes on.
It is a little late for you now but a heads up for those coming up behind
you.... This should never happen (at least not with the row of rivets
that fasten the rear baffle flange.
When you are assembling the tanks... think about what needs to actually
be sealed with the sealant. The seal for the baffle flange should take
place at the radius of the flange bend and the area just fwd of your
offending row of rivets. If fuel is getting to these rivets then you
have much bigger leak problems than worrying about whether fuel can leak
around these rivets. When I install a rear baffle on a tank, I lay down
a bead of sealant about 3/16" in diam, positioned just fwd of the row of
rivet holes. I do this by putting sealant in a ziplock freezer bag, cut
off a corner, and squeeze it like a pastry bag.
When the rear baffle is pushed into place, it will wipe/push this bead
along in front of it making the seal along the fwd edge of the flange
leaving it nearly dry of sealant at the rivet holes. This is actually
important on RV-4 and RV-6 type tanks because the have a very wide flange
on the baffle. If you leave a large buildup of sealant between the tank
skin and the baffle it will cause lots of problems with the tank fit to
the wing. The RV-8 and RV-9 style tanks have a much smaller baffle
flange and it is much less of an issue with these.
The procedure I use in assembling tanks has very little if any sealant in
any rivet holes when I slip the rivets in. Regardless of what process
you prefer while assembling your tanks, you should strive to have the
holes for the baffle flange rivets free of sealant when installing the
rivets.
Sealant under the rivet heads along the baffle flange really isn't
sealing for fuel anyway.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert P. Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection Mounting |
For those who have FI systems can you tell me where you mounted the weldon fuel
pump (inside or outside the cockpit, before or after the gascolator, etc). Did
you use a gascolator? And I have a leaky weldon fuel pump, where can I send it
to get it fixed?
Thanks
Bob Busick
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH available |
Well, my on-again off-again plans for OSH are off again, at least for most
of it, so the room I had reserved will be available. This is a room with a
queen bed in a nice house with central air. The hostess, Sharon Hawkins,
provides continental breakfast. She works the EAA too so it should be
possible to catch a ride with her to and from the show when she goes. The
house is close to a bus line so you can get to/from that way too. Its
available for the whole show.
If interested, contact Sharon Hawkins, 920-232-8554.
Please email me if you get the room so I can get my deposit back.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Getting to the facts I purchased an O360A1A engine that was in aircraft accident
and fire. I knew up front I was taking a chance but felt the price was right
to have things checked out. Engine had less than 500 hours since major which
included rechromed cylinders, reground crank and camshaft. One cylinder was
toasted in the fire. After sending in engine case, crank, cam, rods to be checked--
engine shop questions whether crank got too hot & lost tempering and recommends
nitriting(?) crank, rods, & replacing camshaft because it can't be reground
twice. My question now is about the other three cylinders, pistons although
NTSB testing indicated three good cylinders showed compression in 70's,
whether to bother having these checked or purchase new cylinders?
For you guys with more experience or who have been down this road before--what
is your advice?
Dave Ford
RV6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
I marked the ribs took them out and used a hole saw but then again I put
then
m on under the outside skin, looks great.
Ken Stribling N151RV reserved doing minor things waiting for finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine question |
by all means have everything heat treated, and the cam, even if it's a new on parkerized...that
is the BEST insurance you can buy....jolly in aurora, wanting
a RV
David Ford wrote:
>
> Getting to the facts I purchased an O360A1A engine that was in aircraft accident
and fire. I knew up front I was taking a chance but felt the price was right
to have things checked out. Engine had less than 500 hours since major which
included rechromed cylinders, reground crank and camshaft. One cylinder was
toasted in the fire. After sending in engine case, crank, cam, rods to be
checked-- engine shop questions whether crank got too hot & lost tempering and
recommends nitriting(?) crank, rods, & replacing camshaft because it can't be
reground twice. My question now is about the other three cylinders, pistons although
NTSB testing indicated three good cylinders showed compression in 70's,
whether to bother having these checked or purchase new cylinders?
> For you guys with more experience or who have been down this road before--what
is your advice?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Maintainability vs Performance (was RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at |
air inlet)
In a message dated 7/22/00 6:28:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
I wrote:
<< > Also, I couldn't help but notice that you've only got 1/8" of
> > clearance
>> between the cowl and spinner. I've got between 3/8 and 1/2" on mine,
>> and it
>> is still a bear to get the bottom cowl off. From a maintenance
>> standpoint, I
>> suggest all builders who are using hinges on the sides of the lower
>> cowl make
>> sure to leave enough of a spinner/cowl gap to allow the entire cowl
>> to slide
>> forward so the hinge eyes on the sides can completely disengage.
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
>But not from a performance standpoint.
>I have been reading (and re-reading) Kent Paser's book "Speed with
>Economy" and one of his recommended aerodynamic clean-ups is to reduce
>the spinner-to-cowl joint to as little as possible.
>Does it matter a lot?
>- but it's all the little things that add up (like leg intersection
>fairings).
>Might be worth the extra work to figure out how to install the cowl and
>keep the 1/8" clearance.
>Just a data point...
Mike,
You bring up a good point. Depending on what you are optimizing for, you
build your airplane differently. Once upon a time, I was gonna build the
fastest 160 hp RV-6 around. Then, after I was well into the project, I
decided that I'd make mine as fast as possible, while not sacrificing
utility, or greatly increasing my build time.
A few of the ideas that I still like, but discarded, were: round air inlets
(too much work for me), cooling plenum (again, too much work), foil com
antenna (didn't want to suffer a possible reduction of radio performance).
Also, I raised my 2 piece wheel fairings a wee bit, so they wouldn't scrape
when I have low tire pressure, or when I'm operating off of a grass field.
The cowl/spinner gap is just another area where I chose to make the airplane
easier to work on. Paser and others have made different trade offs.
In the end, you've just gotta decide what's gonna make you happiest. I know
that I'm least happy when I'm messing with something that doesn't fit
together easily, or which must be handled with "kid gloves"...
Kyle
RV-6 Slider (gotta do the big windshield layup in the next day or two...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: transition training |
RV-6A N94KB had its first two flights today. Both were uneventful. The left
wing is slightly heavy and it needs half a ball of right rudder.
AIG through SkySmith covered me for first flight based on some dual in
another RV form Tom Berge our MN Wing flight counselor.
Tom then flew chase plane and Fred Hiatt took some air-to-air photos.
Thanks to everyone for your support.
Ken
Burnsville MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Protruding tank rivets |
If you are still considering grinding off your rivet heads after reading all
the fine advice given, I read somewhere that if you cover the area with UHMW
tape first It will be a lot easier to keep from grinding into your skins.
Kevin Shannon
-9A just riveted baffles on tanks today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Pearlman <jsp(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Design 6-A |
Each time you make a change, think about the impact of maintaining the aircraft
in a few years. There needs to be a valve upstream of the gascolator so you can
turn the fuel off before opening the gascolator to clean it. Other than that, it
is weight and $.
jay pearlman
RPV Ca
"Charles E. Brame" wrote:
>
> What would be wrong with using two gascolators, one on each side in the
> spaces between the tanks and the fuselage. It would obviously increase
> the cost by one gascolator and slightly increase weight. But it would
> simplify the installation, reduce the lines in the cockpit, and not
> require the fuel selector to be on in order to drain either gascolator.
>
> I like the idea of getting the gascolator out of the engine compartment
> for two reasons. One is the heat. The other reason is to reduce the fire
> danger in an accident. If the gascolator is mounted low in the engine
> compartment, it is in jeopardy of being ripped off in any accident where
> the cowl hits the ground. With the gascolator ripped off, the boost pump
> (assuming it is on for landing or takeoff) would be feeding lots of gas
> to any potential fire.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A QB
>
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> >>"Based on this experience I designed my fuel system for both the RV 6
> and 6A
> >>as follows. Using the fuel selector as supplied with the kit connect both
> >>tanks to it then run the line to the engine into a gascolator
> installed in
> >>the space between the tank and the fuselage on the left hand side
> ahead of
> >>the spar. Then into the Facet pump installed ahead of the gascolator
> in the
> >>same area.Then back into the cabin and forward through the fire wall. A
> >>short piece of hose from the drain on the gascolator out through the bottom
> >>fairing allows it to be drained with a the clear sight tester. I moved the
> >>gascolator out of the engine compartment for two reasons, one so it is
> >>handy to drain and to have it low enough that it can be drained
> without the
> >>boost pump on. All that is required is to have the fuel selector on."
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Protruding tank rivets |
Kevin,
Not that I'm grinding off any "mistake" or anything like that (not me),
but what's UHMW tape.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A tip-up canopy frame fit (long) |
Hi Louis,
I've just been reading your 19th January post to the RV-list about
stiffening the tip-up canopy -- as you might guess, I'm just at that
stage.
Thanks for that post... it tells me a lot of what I need to know. But
what I'm trying to figure out is... how much of the canopy frame gets
the extra reinforcing? From Will Cretsinger's notes, it seems that the
reinforcing goes aft at least as far as the strut mounts. From the
little diagram that came with the struts, it seems that at least some of
the canopy bow gets glassed.
But how far to go in each direction? Should I go aft as far as the
splice plate that joins the side frames? Should I glass in the whole of
the canopy bow?
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Looking for Sam Buchanan, canopy frame photos |
Hi,
You there Sam?
I'm looking photos of the fiberglass reinforcement of the forward canopy
frame of a tip-up. But Sam's web site has disappeared. The old
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/ points me to http://sambuchanan.com, but
when I go there I get some kind of on-line gift shop.
Anyone (a) know where Sam's web pages can be found?
and/or (b) have photos online of this part of their project?
Incidentally, what did everyone do about the weatherseal flange on the
F668 bulkhead over the hinges? Obviously you need to leave a gap,
otherwise the canopy release won't work. But (equally obviously) that'll
leave a gap that water can leak in.
TIA,
Frank.
Too poor to go to OSH, so still at Marton, NZ
RV-6 tip-up (almost ready (chronologically but not psychologically) to
start cutting plexiglass)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet |
I had the same problem. I had to remove quite a bit of that "hook" to get
the two pieces to fit. The "hook" is more like a stub now.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A cowl and air scoop
-----Original Message-----
I have my lower "S" cowl fit nicely with just over 1/8"
clearance in front
between the spinner. When I place the top cowl in position
for mating with
the lower, it can't drop straight down because of the curved
hook shape of
the lower cowl at the outboard air inlet. One side is not
as bad as the
other. I have removed a small portion of the hook material
in order to pry
on the top cowl. This doesn't seem right to have to pry it
into position
like this. My question: Should I (1) remove most of the
hook, or (2)
weaken it so it can more easily be bent, (3) The plans don't
show a plate
nut in this location, so the hook may be required. Any
thoughts will be
appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Sam Buchanan, canopy frame photos |
>
>I'm looking photos of the fiberglass reinforcement of the forward canopy
>frame of a tip-up. But Sam's web site has disappeared. The old
>http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/ points me to http://sambuchanan.com, but
>when I go there I get some kind of on-line gift shop.
>
>Anyone (a) know where Sam's web pages can be found?
>and/or (b) have photos online of this part of their project?
>
Frank,
You found the web site for Sam's photo business. His RV Journal is at:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/
Take care,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Sam Buchanan, canopy frame photos |
In a message dated 7/23/00 4:50:09 AM Central Daylight Time,
frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz writes:
<< Anyone (a) know where Sam's web pages can be found? >>
try this:
The RV Aircraft Journal
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (fuel tanks)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | removing flap pins |
Hi,
If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it seems
that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
alternatives I see would be:
1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap (must
remove some hinge eyelets)
2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
brace.
What are other builders out there doing?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
you can use a die grinder with a cone bit, works quick, clean, and precise,
also i mounted the step plate behind the side skin, it is a little more head
scatching, but the results are fantastic.
hope this helps
scott
tampa
rv6a engine & prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
I drilled a small hole in the aileron mount that lines up with the
flap hinge on my RV4. You can remove it with wings on fuse. Does require
you to take the aileron pushrod loose if the ailerons are on while
removing the flap.
Earl still struggling with canopy
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it seems
> that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> alternatives I see would be:
> 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap (must
> remove some hinge eyelets)
> 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> brace.
>
> What are other builders out there doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Bert: Been There, Done That ! I used a Dremal Tool with the Stainless
Cutter Wheel they have available.
Drill a small hole in the rib where the step support goes
through and holding the Dremal at a slight angle open up the hole as needed.
If you don't have a Dremal make the investment as next to my Bandsaw I use
it more than anything.
Tom in Ohio
RV6-A-QB
----- Original Message -----
From: humberto murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Steps
>
> Hi:
>
> I am in the process of installing side steps for my
> rv6a. There most be a way, easier than what I am
> going thru. There is no room between ribs, to use
> anything, but file and muscle...I am talking of course
> the hole that goes thru the floor rib...
> One would need a long extension, with ?
>
> I am almost finished left one, but,,any suggestions
> of those who already completed this task?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Bert
> rv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspection |
>
>Lister's,
>
>My 8A has just past the FAA inspection, safe for flight.
>
>I was issued a 25 hour test phase one.
>
>I used the local office here in Dallas.
>
>A few things that happened to me.
>
>The inspector crawled all over the A/C for about 2 hours looking at the
>overall fit & finish checking things. He had a checklist.
>
>He then asked for me to re-assemble the A/C in a ready for flight condition
>to witness the engine running, seeing that all the engine gauges worked,
>are operating in the proper range. He asked for a break check & for me to
>cycle the prop.
>
>It took 2 hours on Friday & 2 hours on Saturday to complete the process.
>This seems different than what I have other builders have experienced.
>
>It was in my opinion a good inspection & a painless process.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Dallas, TX
>Transition Training next week.
Mark,
That is most definitely a thorough inspection! Maybe TOO thorough, but then
you cannot be too safe in this business. Mine was over in about two hours.
No engine run was requested. He just asked if all systems were indicating
normal.
You're through the paperwork quagmire, now it's time to go fly! Enjoy your
transition training.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspection |
Local RV6 builder was signed off by the DE after 5 hours of mostly look'en
at systems, panel placards and paperwork. I don't think he asked for a run
up or test of gages.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FAA Inspection
>
>
> >
> >Lister's,
> >
> >My 8A has just past the FAA inspection, safe for flight.
> >
> >I was issued a 25 hour test phase one.
> >
> >I used the local office here in Dallas.
> >
> >A few things that happened to me.
> >
> >The inspector crawled all over the A/C for about 2 hours looking at the
> >overall fit & finish checking things. He had a checklist.
> >
> >He then asked for me to re-assemble the A/C in a ready for flight
condition
> >to witness the engine running, seeing that all the engine gauges worked,
> >are operating in the proper range. He asked for a break check & for me to
> >cycle the prop.
> >
> >It took 2 hours on Friday & 2 hours on Saturday to complete the process.
> >This seems different than what I have other builders have experienced.
> >
> >It was in my opinion a good inspection & a painless process.
> >
> >Mark Steffensen
> >8A Dallas, TX
> >Transition Training next week.
>
>
> Mark,
>
> That is most definitely a thorough inspection! Maybe TOO thorough, but
then
> you cannot be too safe in this business. Mine was over in about two hours.
> No engine run was requested. He just asked if all systems were indicating
> normal.
>
> You're through the paperwork quagmire, now it's time to go fly! Enjoy your
> transition training.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
>
>
>Hi,
>If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it seems
>that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
>will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
>alternatives I see would be:
>1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap (must
>remove some hinge eyelets)
>2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
>brace.
>
>What are other builders out there doing?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
Glenn,
I did option #2. Works fine.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Comm Antenna Mounting |
Hi,
I have a bent whip comm antenna I need to mount on the bottom of My RV-6
just aft of the battery box. I am not sure if I should rivet a doubler
plate in there to reinforce the mounting. It seems pretty sturdy
without it. I am thinking that if I rivet a doubler plate to the floor
angle pieces, it might cause more damage in the event of something
snagging or striking the antenna.
Any thoughts?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RMD installation video? |
Ken,
We have it - $10 plus shipping. Let us know if we can help you.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMD installation video? |
Hi Becki,
Has the video been updated to show the newer style RMD lights (90 degree
cutout), or does it still show the older ones (curved cutout)?
Also, how much would it cost to have a pair of seats made for my -8 (in
leather)? What sort of lead time would be necessary?
Regards,
Ken
OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Ken,
> We have it - $10 plus shipping. Let us know if we can help you.
>
> Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it seems
> that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> alternatives I see would be:
> 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap (must
> remove some hinge eyelets)
> 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> brace.
>
> What are other builders out there doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
Go with number (1) idea that is what a lot of us here are doing.
Works for me for over eleven years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Incident |
Sadly, my friend Mimi Steel had an incident yesterday on her way to OSH that
has disabled her plane (she's fine) at Winnemucca, NV. Apparently (we don't
have many facts at this point), she had just departed after fueling up and
noticed that oil temp was abnormally high (she has a 200 hp hotrodded O-360
from Dick Demars), but still running normally. Distracted, she brought it in
for a precautionary landing a little too high and fast, running off the end
of the runway. The aircraft flipped over but there was no fire, someone was
there to help her out and all that now remains is to get the wings off and
trailer it home. She is very lucky and all us at LVK are thankful.
Perhaps there's a more detailed report on-line somewhere. Let's be careful
up there and remember to fly the plane.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
Listers,
I was distracted yesterday from my building progress to clean the attic
out at the request of my spouse. In my cleaning I went to throw away alot of
my Air Force uniforms, etc...most were trashed, but I did run across a
new/never used Nomex Flight Suit issued to me several years ago. So if
anyone wants a new flight suit, size 40 Regular (Im 5'9", 165lbs if that
helps) let me know. I will gladly give away for the price of shipping it to
you. I have used some of my older ones for working in the garage in the
winter and crawling around under the cars so maybe you can find a similar
use. First response gets it.
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>HI:
>
> I am finishing the trial fitting of the fuel
>line, from the fuel valve unit, to the tank(I am
>on the left wing now)
> 2 questions: 1. it does make any difference if line
> from, Valve, goes directly to tank?
>no other fitting in between..I have seen, that
>some builders, put a 90o elbow, or straight fitting..
>the way my line goes, around the gear support, and
>up to the tank, the hole made, was almost exactly
>in front of tank connection.
Use whatever fittings necessary to route the line as you deem proper for
your aircraft. For the left wing on my RV8, I used a 90 degree bulkhead
fitting to make the turn from the valve, forward to the tank fitting on the
nose of the tank rib. This was due to the use of a flop tube in this tank.
The bulkhead fitting made fabrication and installation of this line much
easier than to use one piece. Only one caveat: the more fittings you use,
the greater the chance of leaks.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
112 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Do the hinge pins from the center, make one side noticeably longer (2-4")
than the other, makes deciding which pin to use easier. Form an eye in the
end of each pin, and after insertion, safety wire them together, now you have
one pin.
Bruce Patton
-6A, 150 hours in the first year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Paint trip summary, etc. (long) |
Listers,
My RV8 is currently out of service and FINALLY getting painted! Yes, it's
true...I've stopped flying to finish the thing. I was originally going to
take it to Aurora to have Craig Roberts paint it. Unfortunately, he has a
family medical emergency to deal with and had to cancel. So, I called George
Bougeokles of "Aircraft Painting by George" at the Corona, Ca. airport.
He's never done an RV, but has done everything else with wings, including
airliners as a painter for Continental Airlines for 17 years. He's quite
excited about it, as is his main painter who really likes doing urethane
basecoat/clearcoat finishes.
My flight from Albuquerque to Corona was simply wonderful, smooth and most
enjoyable. I stopped in Payson, Az for fuel...both for the plane and for me
at their very good cafe. Quite a scenic airport! The climb out was
breathtaking, in that an engine failure would leave nothing to land on but
trees and rocky terrain. The flight direct to Corona was up high at 10,000'
to keep cabin temp under control as it was over 100 degrees down on the
desert floor. I had to throttle back to cool down the oil after the climb
out of Payson. I'm still not 100% happy with the Positech cooler. After 10
minutes of cruise at 2400 rpm, temp came down and all was well. After that,
I pushed the throttle back up to 2600 rpm which gave me an average ground
speed for this leg of 185 mph. The ride was soooo smooth this fine morning
that once it was trimmed out in pitch and roll, I could fly hands off and
swap out CD's for in-flight entertainment.
The descent into the Corona area was the first time I've ever seen my
altimeter go almost to sea level! The airplane felt so solid and groovy
with all that dense atmosphere. You low-landers got it made! Oh, this was
the first flight with an Oregon Aero headset upgrade with hushkit added to
my el cheapo headset. WOW! It now feels like it just melts onto my noggin
and disappears. A highly recommended setup to put on your holiday wish list.
The landing was quite a hoot...seemed like I was moving in slow motion. Once
clear of the runway, back slid the canopy and my arm went over the side
rail. Must LOOK cool as well as BE cool, ya know. George greeted me, we
picked up a rental car, secured my plane in his hangar, and off I went to
relax in a very cool hotel room. The following day was spent taking off the
control surfaces, fairings, canopy and access panels. Kinda sad to see my
bird in pieces again, but also exciting to know she's finally getting fully
dressed for the big show! Needless to say, I won't be at OSH this year, but
will be at Copperstate, Van's Homecoming and maybe the SW EAA regional in
Texas.
So, the next three weeks will be without an airplane to fly! Yikes...I'm
starting to twitch already. I'll be updating my webpage with pics once the
plane is finished. My wife and I will both return to Corona to pick it up
and will take a different route home, perhaps via San Diego then back
through southern Arizona.
Keep building folks, you're gonna love your airplane. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | removing flap pins |
I removed a total of four eyes from the center of the hinge. I secured the
hinge pin by bending it in such a way that it tucks up into the lightning
holes of the flap brace. I'm happy with how it turned out.
I've taken pictures, but they aren't on my site yet.
Larry Bowen
RV-8 firewall fab.
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
> Hi,
> If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it seems
> that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> alternatives I see would be:
> 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap (must
> remove some hinge eyelets)
> 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> brace.
>
> What are other builders out there doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Available |
just finished making mine from left overs from h. stab- cost me about 50
bucks. am i missing something?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
Listers,
Boy got a heck of a response in less than an hour from you guys. The
lucky first respondent was Bill Shook. If I come across any more as I do my
cleaning I will drop another post. Thanks again. Happy building.
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Jigs for sale... |
I still have my Loveday (Frey) combo jig (empennage & wing) for sale.
Current price for new is $1299. I paid about $900. Make me an offer,
please...
Also, I still have my homemade wooden fuse jig available. I'd really
hate to cut it up into scrap, but I need the workshop space, so that's
what's going to happen pretty soon. $50 will take it -- come and get
it!
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
riveting fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PosiTech Oil Coolers |
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the PosiTech oil coolers?
They seem to be about half the price of the Stewart Warners?
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
| Subject: | Travel to Holland |
Hello to the Netherlands,
I will be traveling in Holland in September, from the fifth to the twenty
first of the month.
Are there any RV builders in Holland?, or in the immediate area. that would
accept a visit from a RV6a builder from western Canada.
Jim in Kelowna BC. Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
This has got to be a mistake. I never win anything. Normally I'm a week
late and a grand short. Wooohoooo.
:-)
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 3:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Freebie
>
> Listers,
>
> Boy got a heck of a response in less than an hour from you guys. The
> lucky first respondent was Bill Shook. If I come across any more as I do
my
> cleaning I will drop another post. Thanks again. Happy building.
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH available |
Well, my on-again off-again plans for OSH are off again, at least for most
of it, so the room I had reserved will be available. This is a room with a
queen bed in a nice house with central air. The hostess, Sharon Hawkins,
provides continental breakfast. She works the EAA too so it should be
possible to catch a ride with her to and from the show when she goes. The
house is close to a bus line so you can get to/from that way too. Its
available for the whole show.
If interested, contact Sharon Hawkins, 920-232-8554.
Please email me if you get the room so I can get my deposit back.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson Fund |
The following are the contributors to the fund since my post of July 18/00
RONALD VANDERVORT
RANDY LERVOLD
WAYNE BONESTEEL
DAVE BIDDLE
BILL COSTELLO
TODD MAGARGLE
JOHN KITZ
RANDY PLANZER
In addition to these I know of several more that are in the mail. I am going
to include a list of all of the contributors when the presentation is made
to Jon. I feel everyone's name should be on this list.
In order to make this possible I am going to arrange for the presentation to
be made at Van's Homecoming at the banquet on Sept 3/00 rather than at
Oshkosh. Hopefully this will also result in some further contributions. For
those of you who are going to be at Oshkosh pass the word to others but lets
try to make it as much of a surprise as we can for the presentation.
Thanks to all those who have contributed,
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Jig Available |
Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> just finished making mine from left overs from h. stab- cost me about 50
> bucks. am i missing something?
>
No Bob it is not called missing something it is called SAVING
around $800-$1000 bucks. I would not take anything away
from the people that buy the steel jig because they are nice
and can be sold to the next builder. Most RV's are built using
the $50-$100 wood jigs and do just fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PosiTech Oil Coolers |
> Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the PosiTech oil coolers?
> They seem to be about half the price of the Stewart Warners?
>
> Bruce Green
> RV-8 plans
Bruce,
The overall summary of experiences by posters on the List, and others in our
local builders's group, is that Posi Tech coolers are a great value and
*very* solidly constructed, but don't cool as efficiently for a given size
relative to the Niagara (aka Stewart/Warner, aka Harrison) units. Since
every engine and cooler installation is different you really don't know up
front whether it will cool adequately or not. I suggest you find someone
with an overall installation just like yours and see how they are doing.
BTW, several failures have been reported with the Setrab units so I think
most listers are a bit tenuous about them. Lastly, check the archives
carefully, I seem to remember at least one builder who installed a Posi Tech
then switched to a Niagara and had noticably cooler temps with the Niagara.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (stuck in fiberglassland probably forever!)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | tip-up canopy thoughts |
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> You there Sam?
>
> I'm looking photos of the fiberglass reinforcement of the forward canopy
> frame of a tip-up. But Sam's web site has disappeared. The old
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/ points me to http://sambuchanan.com, but
> when I go there I get some kind of on-line gift shop.
>
> Anyone (a) know where Sam's web pages can be found?
> and/or (b) have photos online of this part of their project?
>
> Incidentally, what did everyone do about the weatherseal flange on the
> F668 bulkhead over the hinges? Obviously you need to leave a gap,
> otherwise the canopy release won't work. But (equally obviously) that'll
> leave a gap that water can leak in.
Frank, sorry you had problems finding the site, and thanks to a couple
of listers for sending you the correct address.
By the way, I am as shocked as you to see the gift shop site on my URL.
I have no idea how that site managed to kidnap my commercial domain
name. I have my "sambuchanan.com" URL hosted through Image Cafe, a
division of Network Solutions, and their service has been abysmal.
You have stumbled upon a flaw in the tip-up design. This canopy has
provisions for a quick release mechanism, but is seems to be a near
consensus that it would be practically impossible to jettison the canopy
in flight. This is especially true if you have omitted the slots over
the hinges in order to weather proof the canopy as much as possible.
I seriously doubt that you could get the canopy off the aircraft in
flight even with the slots considering the slipstream and the lift
struts. It is a fact that an unlatched canopy will only ride about six
inches open in flight, and I suspect it would be VERY difficult to get
it open much further against the slipstream.
As far as I know, there are no instances of an RV-6 tip-up canopy being
jettisoned in flight. Because of this, many builders largely ignore/omit
the jettison feature. One alternative is to just install bolts in place
of the hinge pins and omit the jettison paraphernalia entirely. This
opens up more possibilities for panel layouts since you don't have to
work around the jettison substructure.
I elected to keep the jettison handle but only for maintenance purposes.
I redirected the handle down under the panel so it could be reached in
case the canopy needed to be removed for heavy panel work. So far I have
had no need to do so in spite of tweaking the panel wiring a little.
I also left the weather seal flange intact so a continuos rubber strip
could be installed the full width of the canopy. I have flown only in
light rain and have had no water intrusion.
The choice is yours......let common sense prevail!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, OSH bound Tuesday)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiway.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PosiTech Oil Coolers |
In a message dated 7/23/00 9:07:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
<<
> Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the PosiTech oil coolers?
> They seem to be about half the price of the Stewart Warners? >>
So far mine has performed too well. I have a 7row on 360-DIA mounted on the
firewall which is supposedly the poorest cooling position. I have been flying
June and July here in S Fla and my oil temp is running too cool per Shell's
recommendation. The temps are 180 cruise and 200 on long hard climb. I am
considering running the discharge thru the cockpit heat valve and removing
the heat muff.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 40 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy thoughts |
In a message dated 7/23/00 5:59:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
writes:
<< seriously doubt that you could get the canopy off the aircraft in
flight even with the slots considering the slipstream and the lift
struts. It is a fact that an unlatched canopy will only ride about six
inches open in flight, and I suspect it would be VERY difficult to get
it open much further against the slipstream. >>
The fact is that the tip-up WILL open fully in flight if unlatched.... I
witnessed this happen on a friends tip-up.... he had failed to latch it
after closing and the lift pulled it open even though the handle was turned
under the roll bar.... it bent the handle!
The canopy was all the way up! He could not see a thing.... he slowed the
plane down, held the stick between his knees, reached up and grabbed the
canopy and pulled it down. This happened right after take-off, on down
wind... he held the canopy with one hand and made a nice landing,
(one-handed).
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum system Issues |
Lister's,
I am baffled!
My 8A is ready to fly & I have one issue I just can not figure out.
My Vacuum gauge, "1 inch" Varga" will not indicate 5hg. It doesn't show any
vacuum pressure.
I have looked at the system top to bottom, I installed a new pump, the
entire system has been taken out on the A/C & bench tested, & operated
properly. I have changed the 1 inch gauge, still indicate the same vacuum
pressure. The 2 vacuum gyros both spool up & operate properly in the A/C
under power, but the gauge does not.
I have had 10 people look at it & we are all baffled.
The gauge has 2 ports one to vacuum & one to ambient pressure.
I know it is something simple staring me right in the face, but I just don't
see it!
If anyone has a suggestion or answer it would be appreciated.
Mark
Mark Steffensen
8A Flying Soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
Strange as this may sound, the vac source is connected to the port marked
Pressure or 'P', the port marked VAC goes to ambient air.
Bruce
Mark Steffensen wrote:
>
> Lister's,
>
> I am baffled!
>
> My 8A is ready to fly & I have one issue I just can not figure out.
>
> My Vacuum gauge, "1 inch" Varga" will not indicate 5hg. It doesn't show any
> vacuum pressure.
>
> I have looked at the system top to bottom, I installed a new pump, the
> entire system has been taken out on the A/C & bench tested, & operated
> properly. I have changed the 1 inch gauge, still indicate the same vacuum
> pressure. The 2 vacuum gyros both spool up & operate properly in the A/C
> under power, but the gauge does not.
>
> I have had 10 people look at it & we are all baffled.
>
> The gauge has 2 ports one to vacuum & one to ambient pressure.
>
> I know it is something simple staring me right in the face, but I just don't
> see it!
>
> If anyone has a suggestion or answer it would be appreciated.
>
> Mark
>
> Mark Steffensen
> 8A Flying Soon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH taken |
Looks like the room I posted at OSH (Sharon Hawkins') has been taken
(Charlie, be sure to let me and/or the list know if anything changes.)
I will in fact be going but not until Friday or Saturday, and I'll just
camp. Look forward to seeing y'all!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy thoughts |
-----Original Message-----
From: Rvator97(at)AOL.COM <Rvator97(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: tip-up canopy thoughts
>
>In a message dated 7/23/00 5:59:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
>writes:
>
><< seriously doubt that you could get the canopy off the aircraft in
> flight even with the slots considering the slipstream and the lift
> struts. It is a fact that an unlatched canopy will only ride about six
> inches open in flight, and I suspect it would be VERY difficult to get
> it open much further against the slipstream. >>
>
>The fact is that the tip-up WILL open fully in flight if unlatched.... I
>witnessed this happen on a friends tip-up.... he had failed to latch it
>after closing and the lift pulled it open even though the handle was turned
>under the roll bar.... it bent the handle!
>The canopy was all the way up! He could not see a thing.... he slowed the
>plane down, held the stick between his knees, reached up and grabbed the
>canopy and pulled it down. This happened right after take-off, on down
>wind... he held the canopy with one hand and made a nice landing,
>(one-handed).
>
>Walt
>
This is very strange. A local RV6 flyer with tipup forgot to latch canopy
on first flight. The canopy stayed about 6 inches open throughout the
pattern and he couldn't close it. Only in the flare, near the stall, did it
suddenly pop up causing him to drop it in from about 5 feet.
When you say "it bent the handle", do you mean Van's Wd621? The latch is
Wd621a is comprised of a 4130 steel plate 0.090 by 0750 inches. I'm having
a hard time understanding the forces generated here!
Dennis Persyk 6A end in sight
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blade Type Fuses |
>
>
>>
>>
>>Cessna Service Bulletin SB00-24-01 calls out replacing the blade type fuses
>>in the main power junction box with resetable circuit breakers. "The blade
>>type fuses can become loose in their fuse holders causing partial or
>>complete loss of electrical power from the main power junction box."
(1) I'll have to call out there and see how they configured a single
fused circuit with a failure mode that causes "complete loss of power" .
. .
Sounds like a serious architecture problem to me. Of course, there's
no reaso for an amature airplane builder to
>>The service bulletins on the new Cessnas have the full effect of an AD so
>>this is going to be very expensive for the owners past the warranty period.
>>I hope Electric Bob will give us guidance so the mistakes of Cessna are not
>>repeated by RV builders who elect to use blade type fuses.
>>Dennis Persyk 6A end in sight
>>C38 Hampshire, IL
>
>
>Looks like another ridiculous waste of space and Cessna Aircraft owner's
>money. Yet another reason to build your own airplane! If Cessna used Radio
>Crap....uh SHACK quality fuse holders then maybe it is warranted. I used
>Cole Hersey fuse blocks and Bussman blade fuses in my RV, have 110 hours on
>it, and no problems at all. Use good quality stuff to begin with, and all
>will be fine for the long haul.
(2) . . . Look fellas . . . check out the warranty statment on our
IS GOING TO FAIL at some point in time. The fact that there's a lot
of fuss at Cessna about a single failure is a bald faced admission that
they still don't know how to build a failure tolerant system. Parts
quality dosn't have squat to do with FLIGHT SYSTEM reliability. $100
switches break and $5 switches break.
The thing that makes it tough on spam-can drivers is the fact that
any change to improve on service life of any component has to be
done with government blessed parts (read expensive) by government
blessed mechanics (read more expense) and subject to inspection by
government
employees (still more dollars). If YOU want to upgrade the quality
of any particular part, you just do it.
The scary part of the Cessna experience is not that the part failed
but that when it does prove unsatisfactory, it apparently creates
a citical condition and is expensive to boot . . . both should be
totally irrelevant to what you're doing on your airplane.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Steffensen <steffco1(at)home.com>
Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Vacuum system Issues
>
>Lister's,
>
>I am baffled!
>
>My 8A is ready to fly & I have one issue I just can not figure out.
>
>My Vacuum gauge, "1 inch" Varga" will not indicate 5hg. It doesn't show
any
>vacuum pressure.
>
>>Mark
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A Flying Soon
>
Suck on both inlets to the gauge. Connect the gauge hose to the one that
registers suction. Leave the other one open to cabin ambient pressure.
Dennis Persyk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: tip-up canopy thoughts |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
> I seriously doubt that you could get the canopy off the aircraft in
> flight even with the slots considering the slipstream and the lift
> struts.
Hmmm... how about after a flip-over on the ground. Seems to me that that
might be a more likely scenario to use the jettison handle. Or would the
plane be resting on the canopy?
> I elected to keep the jettison handle but only for maintenance purposes.
Yup... me too. Looked to me like it would a lot easier to reach behind
the panel if the canopy was out the way.
> I also left the weather seal flange intact so a continuos rubber strip
> could be installed the full width of the canopy. I have flown only in
> light rain and have had no water intrusion.
I think what I'll do is flush rivet a short strip of .025 on one side of
the hinge gap in the weatherseal flange so that it lays on the other
side. That way the seal can go right across there. In case the canopy
needs to be jettisoned, the strip will bend and the canopy can depart.
In normal use the canopy will press the weatherseal down and keep that
strip in place.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
My system vacuum indicator gauge is hooked up as Bruce indicated also. With
the vacuum line being hooked to the "P" fitting. To assure yourself of
this. Connect some plastic/rubber tubing to each fitting and gentle suck
on the tubing. The gauge needle will respond when you are sucking on the
right fitting with a vacuum reading (probably not 5" unless you can really
suck {:>))
Ed
Ed Anderson
305 Reefton Rd
Matthews NC 28104-0569
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
In a message dated 7/23/00 9:20:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
steffco1(at)home.com writes:
<< My Vacuum gauge, "1 inch" Varga" will not indicate 5hg. It doesn't show
any
vacuum pressure.
I have looked at the system top to bottom, I installed a new pump, the
entire system has been taken out on the A/C & bench tested, & operated
properly. I have changed the 1 inch gauge, still indicate the same vacuum
pressure. The 2 vacuum gyros both spool up & operate properly in the A/C
under power, but the gauge does not.
I have had 10 people look at it & we are all baffled.
The gauge has 2 ports one to vacuum & one to ambient pressure. >>
P is for Pressure as in negative pressure. V is for Vent as in ambient.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Another room at OSH |
Listers,
One of our party cannot make it to OSH this year, so we have an extra
room at the dorms. It is for arrival July 27 and departure July 31. We have
paid for it. You may be able to extend the departure date when you arrive.
I don't think they re-rent rooms after someone departs. Or if you won't need
it that long, you can get a refund of the unneeded nights except for a $15
processing fee.
If you are interested, please give me a call (817) 439-3280. I will
take a Visa/MC for it and fax you the reservation paper.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | To TSO or not to TSO ? |
I am in the early stages of panel planning for my RV-8.
Plan is to go for IFR capability.
Question is: Is TSO certication required for any of the equipment in order to
get IFR certification ? I understand that IFR certification is mostly
concerned
with altitude (altimeter and transponder calibration). So does altimeter and
transponder need to be TSO'd ? Does any of the other NAV equipment require
this certification ?
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Tom Diede
RV-8, finishing kit when schedule allows.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Maintainability vs Performance (was RV-6 S Cowl |
tight fit at air inlet)
Grumman Tigers use a ruber like material that goes on the cowl behind the
spinner. It is plyable enough to seal the air and pliable to compress in order
to let the cowl down. I measured the piece at my local airport and plan to add
this mod to my RV......FWIW
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM@matronics.com on 07/22/2000 11:37:19 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Maintainability vs Performance (was RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at
air inlet)
In a message dated 7/22/00 6:28:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
I wrote:
<< > Also, I couldn't help but notice that you've only got 1/8" of
> > clearance
>> between the cowl and spinner. I've got between 3/8 and 1/2" on mine,
>> and it
>> is still a bear to get the bottom cowl off. From a maintenance
>> standpoint, I
>> suggest all builders who are using hinges on the sides of the lower
>> cowl make
>> sure to leave enough of a spinner/cowl gap to allow the entire cowl
>> to slide
>> forward so the hinge eyes on the sides can completely disengage.
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
>But not from a performance standpoint.
>I have been reading (and re-reading) Kent Paser's book "Speed with
>Economy" and one of his recommended aerodynamic clean-ups is to reduce
>the spinner-to-cowl joint to as little as possible.
>Does it matter a lot?
>- but it's all the little things that add up (like leg intersection
>fairings).
>Might be worth the extra work to figure out how to install the cowl and
>keep the 1/8" clearance.
>Just a data point...
Mike,
You bring up a good point. Depending on what you are optimizing for, you
build your airplane differently. Once upon a time, I was gonna build the
fastest 160 hp RV-6 around. Then, after I was well into the project, I
decided that I'd make mine as fast as possible, while not sacrificing
utility, or greatly increasing my build time.
A few of the ideas that I still like, but discarded, were: round air inlets
(too much work for me), cooling plenum (again, too much work), foil com
antenna (didn't want to suffer a possible reduction of radio performance).
Also, I raised my 2 piece wheel fairings a wee bit, so they wouldn't scrape
when I have low tire pressure, or when I'm operating off of a grass field.
The cowl/spinner gap is just another area where I chose to make the airplane
easier to work on. Paser and others have made different trade offs.
In the end, you've just gotta decide what's gonna make you happiest. I know
that I'm least happy when I'm messing with something that doesn't fit
together easily, or which must be handled with "kid gloves"...
Kyle
RV-6 Slider (gotta do the big windshield layup in the next day or two...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcnu93945(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Jigs for sale... |
ken, could the fusealage jig be re-worked to fit an rv-6? J.F. McNulty
ready to build fusealage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Bert :
I used a metal cutter in a 90 degree grinder.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> Hi:
>
> I am in the process of installing side steps for my
> rv6a. There most be a way, easier than what I am
> going thru. There is no room between ribs, to use
> anything, but file and muscle...I am talking of course
> the hole that goes thru the floor rib...
> One would need a long extension, with ?
>
> I am almost finished left one, but,,any suggestions
> of those who already completed this task?
>
> thanks in advance
>
> Bert
> rv6a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Dixon" <s.s.dixon(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Denver area RV builders / flyers |
Fellow builders
I'm an RV-8 builder and will be in the Denver area from now until 8/3. If
you have an RV project or one flying that you would like to show off, I
would love to see it.
You can contact me at the Denver Renaissance Hotel (by the old Stapleton
Airport) 303 399-7500 or by private email at stevedixon(at)attglobal.net.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Steve Dixon
RV-8
Ready to rivet fuselage skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jigs for sale... |
Not having seen the plans for the -6 fuse jig, I'm only speculating, but I
think it would take some effort to do. All the -6 jig cross pieces would
have to be cut and substituted for the ones currently on there, as the -6
jig is wider. Also, the -6 bulkheads are at different positions. My guess
is, you wouldn't save more than 10% or so of the time it would take you to
fabricate a -6 jig from scratch.
Ken
Mcnu93945(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> ken, could the fusealage jig be re-worked to fit an rv-6? J.F. McNulty
> ready to build fusealage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Instrument Panel |
Listers...
Just mounted my instrument panel on my 8A and am concerned w/ flexing at the
bottom on the panel.
Fairly full panel w/ vans engine gauges, Insight monitor, NavAid, King
135A/76A, Allen gyro's.
Considering a brace from the bottom of the panel to the fwd 866 bulkhead.
Anyone else been there??
Thanks,
Doug Gardner 80717
Painting interior
Palm Harbor Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
steffco1(at)home.com wrote:
> I have looked at the system top to bottom, I installed a new pump, the
> entire system has been taken out on the A/C & bench tested, & operated
> properly
Obviously, if the entire system works off the airplane, there is something
wrong with the airplane! Surely the "entire system" must have left
something still in the airplane besides sheet metal. Are the instruments
also on the bench?
With pump and gauge only working ok, add components till it stops working
ok. Okay?
By the way, vacuum systems suck.
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> Hi,
> If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it
> seems
> that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> alternatives I see would be:
> 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap
> (must
> remove some hinge eyelets)
> 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> brace.
>
> What are other builders out there doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Bert, I used a circular saw/ hole cutter on an extension. You can get the
extension from a n hardware store. All it is is a 12" long rod with a hole
on one end and two recessed nuts so you can tighten a drill bit etc into the
hole. Also used a large socket as a "bearing" to have some leverage/guide
away from the drill. This extension is very handy for many tasks.
Lothar, 6A tipup, painting instrument panel
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Steps
>
>Bert :
>I used a metal cutter in a 90 degree grinder.
>
>Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
>**********************************************
> writes:
>>
>> Hi:
>>
>> I am in the process of installing side steps for my
>> rv6a. There most be a way, easier than what I am
>> going thru. There is no room between ribs, to use
>> anything, but file and muscle...I am talking of course
>> the hole that goes thru the floor rib...
>> One would need a long extension, with ?
>>
>> I am almost finished left one, but,,any suggestions
>> of those who already completed this task?
>>
>> thanks in advance
>>
>> Bert
>> rv6a
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Instrument Panel |
>
>
>Listers...
>Just mounted my instrument panel on my 8A and am concerned w/ flexing at
>the
>bottom on the panel.
>Fairly full panel w/ vans engine gauges, Insight monitor, NavAid, King
>135A/76A, Allen gyro's.
>
>Considering a brace from the bottom of the panel to the fwd 866 bulkhead.
>Anyone else been there??
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Gardner 80717
>Painting interior
>Palm Harbor Fla
Doug,
I took care of this with a piece of angle that attaches the end of the COM
tray to the aft baggage bulkhead crossmember rail thingy...whatever part
number that is. By stabilizing the radio tray, the entire panel is also
secured.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
down for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Vertical Stab ribs RV-6 |
I'm currently drilling the ribs (VS806, VS407 & VS404) in the vertical
stabilizer to the front spar (VS802). The plans say to mark the location on
the front spar, but does it not make more sense to use the pre-punched holes
in the skin to align the ribs?
I'm thinking of just drilling the holes through the skin into the centre
(they're marked) of the ribs and then fitting the front spar with the holes
in the skin.
Comments?
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6A emp
CF-SND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no clever
way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the aileron....or
inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two piece pin
with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> Hi,
> If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it
> seems
> that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> alternatives I see would be:
> 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap
> (must
> remove some hinge eyelets)
> 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> brace.
>
> What are other builders out there doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
>>> By the way, vacuum systems suck.>> is written by many users. The
Beechcraft Bonanza (and others) use a vacuum system to blow air (pressure) into
inst's. to power them and exhaust the gas. So in this prospective vacuum systems
in airplanes both suck & blow. ( Sorta like Oklahoma City, the wind blew from
every direction and we could not determine if it sucked or blew down there....)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring flap relay |
I'd appreciate it if at least some replies are made on-list. I'd like to
know too!
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Graham [mailto:gary(at)colonialmortgage.net]
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 8:42 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wiring flap relay
I am trying to wire two flap switches, one is a stick mounted and new the
flap relay, the other is panel mounted and is heavy enough to carry the
current load without a relay. Can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram
to accomplish this?
Off list replies are perfect.
As usual everyone is a great help. Thanks for the support.
Gary Graham
RV-8 N202RV
should be flying before the snow flies (Phoenix)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Paint trip summary, etc. (long) |
I'd be interested in hearing how many $$$'s he wanted. I'm going to have my
-4 professionally painted and would like target price range.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 12:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Paint trip summary, etc. (long)
Listers,
My RV8 is currently out of service and FINALLY getting painted! Yes, it's
true...I've stopped flying to finish the thing. I was originally going to
take it to Aurora to have Craig Roberts paint it. Unfortunately, he has a
family medical emergency to deal with and had to cancel. So, I called George
Bougeokles of "Aircraft Painting by George" at the Corona, Ca. airport.
He's never done an RV, but has done everything else with wings, including
airliners as a painter for Continental Airlines for 17 years. He's quite
excited about it, as is his main painter who really likes doing urethane
basecoat/clearcoat finishes.
My flight from Albuquerque to Corona was simply wonderful, smooth and most
enjoyable. I stopped in Payson, Az for fuel...both for the plane and for me
at their very good cafe. Quite a scenic airport! The climb out was
breathtaking, in that an engine failure would leave nothing to land on but
trees and rocky terrain. The flight direct to Corona was up high at 10,000'
to keep cabin temp under control as it was over 100 degrees down on the
desert floor. I had to throttle back to cool down the oil after the climb
out of Payson. I'm still not 100% happy with the Positech cooler. After 10
minutes of cruise at 2400 rpm, temp came down and all was well. After that,
I pushed the throttle back up to 2600 rpm which gave me an average ground
speed for this leg of 185 mph. The ride was soooo smooth this fine morning
that once it was trimmed out in pitch and roll, I could fly hands off and
swap out CD's for in-flight entertainment.
The descent into the Corona area was the first time I've ever seen my
altimeter go almost to sea level! The airplane felt so solid and groovy
with all that dense atmosphere. You low-landers got it made! Oh, this was
the first flight with an Oregon Aero headset upgrade with hushkit added to
my el cheapo headset. WOW! It now feels like it just melts onto my noggin
and disappears. A highly recommended setup to put on your holiday wish list.
The landing was quite a hoot...seemed like I was moving in slow motion. Once
clear of the runway, back slid the canopy and my arm went over the side
rail. Must LOOK cool as well as BE cool, ya know. George greeted me, we
picked up a rental car, secured my plane in his hangar, and off I went to
relax in a very cool hotel room. The following day was spent taking off the
control surfaces, fairings, canopy and access panels. Kinda sad to see my
bird in pieces again, but also exciting to know she's finally getting fully
dressed for the big show! Needless to say, I won't be at OSH this year, but
will be at Copperstate, Van's Homecoming and maybe the SW EAA regional in
Texas.
So, the next three weeks will be without an airplane to fly! Yikes...I'm
starting to twitch already. I'll be updating my webpage with pics once the
plane is finished. My wife and I will both return to Corona to pick it up
and will take a different route home, perhaps via San Diego then back
through southern Arizona.
Keep building folks, you're gonna love your airplane. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | PosiTech Oil Coolers |
Bruce... Check out the RVator, second issue 2000. Ken Scott has a great
article all about coolers.
Doug Gardner 8A
-----Original Message-----
From: b green [mailto:rvinfo(at)juno.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 7:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: PosiTech Oil Coolers
Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the PosiTech oil coolers?
They seem to be about half the price of the Stewart Warners?
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | removing flap pins |
The clever way is to drill the hole slightly out of alignment with the
hinge. You flex it slightly to remove it, but if it ever vibrates outboard
it will hit the solid hinge bracket.
Greg Young
I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
clever
way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the aileron....or
inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two piece
pin
with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum system Issues |
>> ( Sorta like Oklahoma City, the wind blew from every direction and we
could not determine if it sucked or blew down there....) <<
Somebody told me, after I moved here from Washington State, that the reason
Texas doesn't fall into the Gulf is because Oklahoma sucks. Hope that
clears up the confusion....
(Not trying to start any wars, just repeating what I heard).
Retreating to the hangar to avoid the incoming flames,
Troy Whistman
Dallas/Ft. Worth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Sure there is. Just put a cotter pin in the hole in the aileron bracket and
that keeps the pin from interfering even if is should back out.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (32 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
>
> I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
clever
> way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
aileron....or
> inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two
piece pin
> with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
>
>
> dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
>
> I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
>
> Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
>
> writes:
> >
> > Hi,
> > If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it
> > seems
> > that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> > will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> > alternatives I see would be:
> > 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap
> > (must
> > remove some hinge eyelets)
> > 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> > brace.
> >
> > What are other builders out there doing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Glenn Gordon
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PosiTech Oil Coolers |
In a message dated 7/24/00 3:17:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
<< Bernie:
What size duct are you using? I have to build a duct for the top & the
tubing to the baffle >>
I used the 3 inch and made an aluminum peice for the top to come of the rear
baffle of #3 cylinder. I also did not use Van's fitting where the air comes
into the oil cooler. It appears to me that his fitting tries to dump the air
too close to the cooler and thereby only utilizes less than 100% of the
cooler. Ric Caldwell make similar one out of FG (ugh!) and his system cools
a 180 hp engine very well
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | PosiTech Oil Coolers |
Bruce... Check out the RVator, second issue 2000. Ken Scott has a great
article all about coolers.
Doug Gardner 8A
-----Original Message-----
From: b green [mailto:rvinfo(at)juno.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 7:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: PosiTech Oil Coolers
Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the PosiTech oil coolers?
They seem to be about half the price of the Stewart Warners?
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | removing flap pins |
The clever way is to drill the hole slightly out of alignment with the
hinge. You flex it slightly to remove it, but if it ever vibrates outboard
it will hit the solid hinge bracket.
Greg Young
I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
clever
way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the aileron....or
inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two piece
pin
with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum system Issues |
>> ( Sorta like Oklahoma City, the wind blew from every direction and we
could not determine if it sucked or blew down there....) <<
Somebody told me, after I moved here from Washington State, that the reason
Texas doesn't fall into the Gulf is because Oklahoma sucks. Hope that
clears up the confusion....
(Not trying to start any wars, just repeating what I heard).
Retreating to the hangar to avoid the incoming flames,
Troy Whistman
Dallas/Ft. Worth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Sure there is. Just put a cotter pin in the hole in the aileron bracket and
that keeps the pin from interfering even if is should back out.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (32 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
>
> I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
clever
> way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
aileron....or
> inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two
piece pin
> with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
>
>
> dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
>
> I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
>
> Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
>
> writes:
> >
> > Hi,
> > If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it
> > seems
> > that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> > will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> > alternatives I see would be:
> > 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap
> > (must
> > remove some hinge eyelets)
> > 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> > brace.
> >
> > What are other builders out there doing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Glenn Gordon
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | PosiTech Oil Coolers |
Bruce... Check out the RVator, second issue 2000. Ken Scott has a great
article all about coolers.
Doug Gardner 8A
-----Original Message-----
From: b green [mailto:rvinfo(at)juno.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 7:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: PosiTech Oil Coolers
Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the PosiTech oil coolers?
They seem to be about half the price of the Stewart Warners?
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Don wrote:
> I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
clever
> way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the aileron...
I put a safety wire thru the hole making it too small for the pin to enter.
.or
> inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad.
I suppose. Maybe I'll stick on a small patch of aluminum there.
>The two piece pin with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
I agree. On one side, I was unable to use full length pin.
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | removing flap pins |
Good Idea. I needed to leave a inch or so of hinge to get my drill on the pin to
spin it in & out. I needed a hole thru the bracket to allow chucking up the pin
to the drill.
gyoung@cs-sol.com on 07/24/2000 03:51:35 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: removing flap pins
The clever way is to drill the hole slightly out of alignment with the
hinge. You flex it slightly to remove it, but if it ever vibrates outboard
it will hit the solid hinge bracket.
Greg Young
I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
clever
way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the aileron....or
inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two piece
pin
with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PosiTech Oil Coolers |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Goto go back to the catolog. I have been planning a 2 inch into my home
made f/g duct.
Sounds like I am on the right track. I don't have them other 20 horses to
cool for.
Thanks
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> In a message dated 7/24/00 3:17:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dons6a(at)juno.com
> writes:
>
> << Bernie: What size duct are you using? I have to build a duct for
the top &
> the tubing to the baffle >>
> *********************************************
> I used the 3 inch and made an aluminum peice for the top to come of
> the rear
> baffle of #3 cylinder. I also did not use Van's fitting where the
> air comes
> into the oil cooler. It appears to me that his fitting tries to dump
> the air
> too close to the cooler and thereby only utilizes less than 100% of
> the
> cooler. Ric Caldwell make similar one out of FG (ugh!) and his
> system cools
> a 180 hp engine very well
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson Fund |
I did not see my name. Did you receive my check. I sent it early on.
Regards, Earl Fortner
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>
> The following are the contributors to the fund since my post of July 18/00
>
> RONALD VANDERVORT
> RANDY LERVOLD
> WAYNE BONESTEEL
> DAVE BIDDLE
> BILL COSTELLO
> TODD MAGARGLE
> JOHN KITZ
> RANDY PLANZER
>
> In addition to these I know of several more that are in the mail. I am going
> to include a list of all of the contributors when the presentation is made
> to Jon. I feel everyone's name should be on this list.
>
> In order to make this possible I am going to arrange for the presentation to
> be made at Van's Homecoming at the banquet on Sept 3/00 rather than at
> Oshkosh. Hopefully this will also result in some further contributions. For
> those of you who are going to be at Oshkosh pass the word to others but lets
> try to make it as much of a surprise as we can for the presentation.
>
> Thanks to all those who have contributed,
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Gregory Young wrote
The clever way is to drill the hole slightly out of alignment with the
> hinge. You flex it slightly to remove it, but if it ever vibrates outboard
> it will hit the solid hinge bracket.
>
> Greg Young
>
> I think you will find that nearly everyone did it this easy way.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Design 6-A |
This is correct.
Thank you very much for your comments.
Ross Mickey
> Hi Ross:
>
> Just reviewing our messages and you mentioned that you would run 1/4 to
the
> carb. I think you meant 3/8 as the whole fuel system would normally be run
> in 3/8 ?
>
> Eustace
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6A tip-up canopy frame fit |
I stiffened the entire bow. I don't know if it is needed for the stiffness
(which it does very well) but I mainly did it for the looks.
Ross
From: Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz>
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 2:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A tip-up canopy frame fit (long)
> what I'm trying to figure out is... how much of the canopy frame gets
> the extra reinforcing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
Today I calibrated my Proprietary System AOA computer. Bob Brumwell an
ex-carrier jet jockey and RV6 owner came along to do the honors while I
pushed the buttons. While we were still climbing to get above the scattered
cumulus, he suggested we practice one. I was still flying, so I nibbled into
it a little and the engine faltered a little. I turned the electric fuel pump
on since the EIS was saying "zero pressure" like it usually does in a max
power climb but this usually has no impact on the engine operation( I think
this is because the pressure x-ducer is in the high pressure area of the
cowling). This time I leaned into the stick a little heavier and we were
weightless for several seconds and it sounded like the engine quit, but
refired when I went back to positive G. We also spelled raw fuel. It went
away almost instantly, but we both smelled it. We proceeded to do the
calibration at part power and the engine never missed a beat. Has anyone ever
flown "zero g" with a carbed engine at max throttle and experienced this or
does anyone have a theory of why it did it.
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla, Off toOshkosh tomorrow on Delta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | AOA...was Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
> Today I calibrated my Proprietary System AOA computer
Please let us know about the calibration and use of the AOA...Where did you
locate the pressure ports? Do you have lights in this wing?
Ross Mickey
installed the pressure ports yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Byrd <mbyrd(at)megagate.com> |
I suppose the flight suit will go to those that check their mail on a regular
basis. Yes I am behind.
Could you let me know if it has been claimed. Thanks very much. Michael.
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I was distracted yesterday from my building progress to clean the attic
> out at the request of my spouse. In my cleaning I went to throw away alot of
> my Air Force uniforms, etc...most were trashed, but I did run across a
> new/never used Nomex Flight Suit issued to me several years ago. So if
> anyone wants a new flight suit, size 40 Regular (Im 5'9", 165lbs if that
> helps) let me know. I will gladly give away for the price of shipping it to
> you. I have used some of my older ones for working in the garage in the
> winter and crawling around under the cars so maybe you can find a similar
> use. First response gets it.
>
> Kurt, OKC, OK
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
If the pin backs out more than about 1/4" it will interfere with the aileron
control bracket and you won't get full travel on the aileron, so don't depend
on the pin hitting the bracket to stop it. I bent a tab on a small piece of
sheet metal and screwed it on to the end of the flap, with a #6 screw and nut
plate in place of a hinge rivet. ( the tab bends around the end of the flap to
keep it straight.
Dave
"Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
> Sure there is. Just put a cotter pin in the hole in the aileron bracket and
> that keeps the pin from interfering even if is should back out.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (32 hours)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:59 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
> >
> >
> > I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
> clever
> > way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
> aileron....or
> > inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two
> piece pin
> > with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
> >
> >
> > dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
> >
> > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
> >
> >
> >
> > I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
> >
> > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> > **********************************************
> >
> > writes:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > > If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it
> > > seems
> > > that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> > > will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> > > alternatives I see would be:
> > > 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap
> > > (must
> > > remove some hinge eyelets)
> > > 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> > > brace.
> > >
> > > What are other builders out there doing?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Glenn Gordon
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
3 possibilities, Bernie:
1. When you were "weightless for several seconds" you caused the float to
move up and shut of the fuel as you "leaned into the stick".
2. The float is not adjusted properly - (Float to low) Shuts fuel off to
quick.
3. The needle valve / float is sticking open (Raw Fuel Smell) when it needs
to shut off during engine operation at low RPM / power off - Like during a
stall...
By pulling back then pushing forward on the stick on a carbed engine even
with a properly adjusted float the engine can quit momentarily due to fuel
starvation caused when the float rises up and shuts the fuel off. What
concerns me most about what you described is the fuel fumes.
If the tanks were full or almost full the fuel smell could of come from the
vents and somehow got in the cockpit. If not this it can be a sticking float
and that can be a safety issue.
Hope this helps.
Wish I were pulling back then pushing forward on the stick on a carbed
engine and making it quit!
Soon I hope...
Don Eaves
RV6 Finishing the last 10%
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 5:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??
Today I calibrated my Proprietary System AOA computer. Bob Brumwell an
ex-carrier jet jockey and RV6 owner came along to do the honors while I
pushed the buttons. While we were still climbing to get above the scattered
cumulus, he suggested we practice one. I was still flying, so I nibbled into
it a little and the engine faltered a little. I turned the electric fuel
pump
on since the EIS was saying "zero pressure" like it usually does in a max
power climb but this usually has no impact on the engine operation( I think
this is because the pressure x-ducer is in the high pressure area of the
cowling). This time I leaned into the stick a little heavier and we were
weightless for several seconds and it sounded like the engine quit, but
refired when I went back to positive G. We also spelled raw fuel. It went
away almost instantly, but we both smelled it. We proceeded to do the
calibration at part power and the engine never missed a beat. Has anyone
ever
flown "zero g" with a carbed engine at max throttle and experienced this or
does anyone have a theory of why it did it.
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla, Off toOshkosh tomorrow on Delta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Someone on this List also suggested tapping the hole for a number 6 screw
and inserting with Locktite.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
>
> Sure there is. Just put a cotter pin in the hole in the aileron bracket
and
> that keeps the pin from interfering even if is should back out.
>
> Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (32 hours)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:59 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
>
> >
> >
> > I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
> clever
> > way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
> aileron....or
> > inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two
> piece pin
> > with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
> >
> >
> > dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
> >
> > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
> >
> >
> >
> > I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
> >
> > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> > **********************************************
> >
> > writes:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > > If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it
> > > seems
> > > that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> > > will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> > > alternatives I see would be:
> > > 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap
> > > (must
> > > remove some hinge eyelets)
> > > 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> > > brace.
> > >
> > > What are other builders out there doing?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Glenn Gordon
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
A carb depends on gravity to keep the fuel in the bottom of the float bowl. If
there
is no gravity (zero g's) then the fuel is not in the bottom of the bowl. No fuel
in
the bottom of the bowl = no engine noise.
Whether the float valve is open or closed at this point, makes little difference.
Dave
Don Eaves wrote:
>
> 3 possibilities, Bernie:
> 1. When you were "weightless for several seconds" you caused the float
to
> move up and shut of the fuel as you "leaned into the stick".
> 2. The float is not adjusted properly - (Float to low) Shuts fuel off to
> quick.
> 3. The needle valve / float is sticking open (Raw Fuel Smell) when it needs
> to shut off during engine operation at low RPM / power off - Like during a
> stall...
>
> By pulling back then pushing forward on the stick on a carbed engine even
> with a properly adjusted float the engine can quit momentarily due to fuel
> starvation caused when the float rises up and shuts the fuel off. What
> concerns me most about what you described is the fuel fumes.
> If the tanks were full or almost full the fuel smell could of come from the
> vents and somehow got in the cockpit. If not this it can be a sticking float
> and that can be a safety issue.
> Hope this helps.
>
> Wish I were pulling back then pushing forward on the stick on a carbed
> engine and making it quit!
> Soon I hope...
>
> Don Eaves
> RV6 Finishing the last 10%
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 5:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??
>
>
> Today I calibrated my Proprietary System AOA computer. Bob Brumwell an
> ex-carrier jet jockey and RV6 owner came along to do the honors while I
> pushed the buttons. While we were still climbing to get above the scattered
> cumulus, he suggested we practice one. I was still flying, so I nibbled into
> it a little and the engine faltered a little. I turned the electric fuel
> pump
> on since the EIS was saying "zero pressure" like it usually does in a max
> power climb but this usually has no impact on the engine operation( I think
> this is because the pressure x-ducer is in the high pressure area of the
> cowling). This time I leaned into the stick a little heavier and we were
> weightless for several seconds and it sounded like the engine quit, but
> refired when I went back to positive G. We also spelled raw fuel. It went
> away almost instantly, but we both smelled it. We proceeded to do the
> calibration at part power and the engine never missed a beat. Has anyone
> ever
> flown "zero g" with a carbed engine at max throttle and experienced this or
> does anyone have a theory of why it did it.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla, Off toOshkosh tomorrow on Delta
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA...was Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??(AOA stuff) |
In a message dated 7/24/00 7:57:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
<< Please let us know about the calibration and use of the AOA...Where did you
locate the pressure ports? Do you have lights in this wing?
>>
I have "hot tips" with landing and nav light in the tip. Located the ports
between the last two ribs about half way and forward of the spar. It is where
Jim F of PS's recommended. I have only made one landing after the calibration
and several stalls.
It seemed to work as advertised. Brumwell, the ex-navy man seemed impressed
with the display.
I am Oshkosh and then Lobster diving for a week in the Keys before I get to
fly again. This retirement stuff is AOK. Will let you know after I use it a
while.
Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring flap relay (Postings) |
Guys & Gals,
I AGREE !! - The purpose of the RV-LIST is to share information!
I suggest that Off-List is only appropriate for personal postings.
Please remember how many times you benefited from the List.
If posters are concerned by flamers - Ignore them - The vast
majority of the List - does.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (finishing sys installs)
Niantic, CT
>I'd appreciate it if at least some replies are made on-list. I'd like to
>know too!
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gary Graham [mailto:gary(at)colonialmortgage.net]
>Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 8:42 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wiring flap relay
>
>
>I am trying to wire two flap switches, one is a stick mounted and new the
>flap relay, the other is panel mounted and is heavy enough to carry the
>current load without a relay. Can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram
>to accomplish this?
>
>Off list replies are perfect.
>
>As usual everyone is a great help. Thanks for the support.
>
>Gary Graham
>RV-8 N202RV
>should be flying before the snow flies (Phoenix)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
I agree - Now where did the smell come from?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??
A carb depends on gravity to keep the fuel in the bottom of the float bowl.
If there
is no gravity (zero g's) then the fuel is not in the bottom of the bowl. No
fuel in
the bottom of the bowl = no engine noise.
Whether the float valve is open or closed at this point, makes little
difference.
Dave
Don Eaves wrote:
>
> 3 possibilities, Bernie:
> 1. When you were "weightless for several seconds" you caused the
float to
> move up and shut of the fuel as you "leaned into the stick".
> 2. The float is not adjusted properly - (Float to low) Shuts fuel off to
> quick.
> 3. The needle valve / float is sticking open (Raw Fuel Smell) when it
needs
> to shut off during engine operation at low RPM / power off - Like during a
> stall...
>
> By pulling back then pushing forward on the stick on a carbed engine even
> with a properly adjusted float the engine can quit momentarily due to fuel
> starvation caused when the float rises up and shuts the fuel off. What
> concerns me most about what you described is the fuel fumes.
> If the tanks were full or almost full the fuel smell could of come from
the
> vents and somehow got in the cockpit. If not this it can be a sticking
float
> and that can be a safety issue.
> Hope this helps.
>
> Wish I were pulling back then pushing forward on the stick on a carbed
> engine and making it quit!
> Soon I hope...
>
> Don Eaves
> RV6 Finishing the last 10%
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 5:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??
>
>
> Today I calibrated my Proprietary System AOA computer. Bob Brumwell an
> ex-carrier jet jockey and RV6 owner came along to do the honors while I
> pushed the buttons. While we were still climbing to get above the
scattered
> cumulus, he suggested we practice one. I was still flying, so I nibbled
into
> it a little and the engine faltered a little. I turned the electric fuel
> pump
> on since the EIS was saying "zero pressure" like it usually does in a max
> power climb but this usually has no impact on the engine operation( I
think
> this is because the pressure x-ducer is in the high pressure area of the
> cowling). This time I leaned into the stick a little heavier and we were
> weightless for several seconds and it sounded like the engine quit, but
> refired when I went back to positive G. We also spelled raw fuel. It went
> away almost instantly, but we both smelled it. We proceeded to do the
> calibration at part power and the engine never missed a beat. Has anyone
> ever
> flown "zero g" with a carbed engine at max throttle and experienced this
or
> does anyone have a theory of why it did it.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla, Off toOshkosh tomorrow on Delta
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring flap relay |
>
>I'd appreciate it if at least some replies are made on-list. I'd like to
>know too!
Here's a wiring diagram for multiple flap controls . . . you can
have as many as you wish in as many locations. The RELAYS are
necessary . . . this system has a safety feature in that simply
stops the flaps where they are in case of two, conflicting commands.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/flaps.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
>
>
>>>> By the way, vacuum systems suck.>> is written by many users. The
>Beechcraft Bonanza (and others) use a vacuum system to blow air (pressure)
into
>inst's. to power them and exhaust the gas. So in this prospective vacuum
systems
>in airplanes both suck & blow. ( Sorta like Oklahoma City, the wind blew
from
>every direction and we could not determine if it sucked or blew down
there....)
Blow systems are quite common for airplanes that fly high . . .consider
that a pure vacuum system has to develop a differential of 5" Hg below
ambient pressure . . . the higher you go the harder it is. A pressure
system takes ambient and pumps it up to ADD 5" Hg in pressure. Much easier
to do. Further, some magnetos need to be pressurized for high altitude
work and a "blow" instrument system can do double duty by presurizing
mags too . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
Well, a carb bowl has to have a vent somewhere, so I would assume that it was
venting overboard.
Dave
Don Eaves wrote:
>
> I agree - Now where did the smell come from?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 8:00 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??
>
>
> A carb depends on gravity to keep the fuel in the bottom of the float bowl.
> If there
> is no gravity (zero g's) then the fuel is not in the bottom of the bowl. No
> fuel in
> the bottom of the bowl = no engine noise.
> Whether the float valve is open or closed at this point, makes little
> difference.
> Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lee <borgny(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | gear leg fairing ends |
This week I've been making the fiberglass gear fairing ends. I tried
using aerosol foam as suggested in the archives to no avail. The
airport mechanic gave me a formula for child's play dough. It worked
great!
Mix 1 cup of salt, 1/2 cup corn starch and 3/4 cup of cold water. Stir
together over low heat until you can't stir any more. Wrap in tin
foil. That's it. Works like clay, is inexpensive, and can be washed
from the fiberglass.
John Lee
RV-6A finishing up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring flap relay (Postings) |
Guys, I totally agree with you but this kind of a question requires a picture
or schematic to answer and we can't do that on the list so it almost has to be
an off list reply.
Dave Bristol RV6 at CMA waiting for DAR
Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
> Guys & Gals,
>
> I AGREE !! - The purpose of the RV-LIST is to share information!
>
> I suggest that Off-List is only appropriate for personal postings.
>
> Please remember how many times you benefited from the List.
>
> If posters are concerned by flamers - Ignore them - The vast
> majority of the List - does.
>
> Good Building,
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A (finishing sys installs)
> Niantic, CT
>
> >I'd appreciate it if at least some replies are made on-list. I'd like to
> >know too!
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Gary Graham [mailto:gary(at)colonialmortgage.net]
> >Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 8:42 AM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Wiring flap relay
> >
> >
> >
> >I am trying to wire two flap switches, one is a stick mounted and new the
> >flap relay, the other is panel mounted and is heavy enough to carry the
> >current load without a relay. Can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram
> >to accomplish this?
> >
> >Off list replies are perfect.
> >
> >As usual everyone is a great help. Thanks for the support.
> >
> >Gary Graham
> >RV-8 N202RV
> >should be flying before the snow flies (Phoenix)
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
I'm not familiar with the details of these carbs, so keep that in mind as
you read this. The float bowl has to be vented to the atmosphere somehow.
Maybe some fuel came out that vent during the zero g push over.
And/or, some fuel may have come out the fuel tank vents underneath the
cockpit. I'm not sure how the smell of that fuel would make it into the
cockpit though.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (stuck in Argentina)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>I agree - Now where did the smell come from?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
>Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 8:00 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??
>
>
>A carb depends on gravity to keep the fuel in the bottom of the float bowl.
>If there
>is no gravity (zero g's) then the fuel is not in the bottom of the bowl. No
>fuel in
>the bottom of the bowl = no engine noise.
>Whether the float valve is open or closed at this point, makes little
>difference.
>Dave
>
>Don Eaves wrote:
>
>>
>> 3 possibilities, Bernie:
>> 1. When you were "weightless for several seconds" you caused the
>float to
>> move up and shut of the fuel as you "leaned into the stick".
>> 2. The float is not adjusted properly - (Float to low) Shuts fuel off to
>> quick.
>> 3. The needle valve / float is sticking open (Raw Fuel Smell) when it
>needs
>> to shut off during engine operation at low RPM / power off - Like during a
>> stall...
>>
>> By pulling back then pushing forward on the stick on a carbed engine even
>> with a properly adjusted float the engine can quit momentarily due to fuel
>> starvation caused when the float rises up and shuts the fuel off. What
>> concerns me most about what you described is the fuel fumes.
>> If the tanks were full or almost full the fuel smell could of come from
>the
>> vents and somehow got in the cockpit. If not this it can be a sticking
>float
>> and that can be a safety issue.
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Wish I were pulling back then pushing forward on the stick on a carbed
>> engine and making it quit!
>> Soon I hope...
>>
>> Don Eaves
>> RV6 Finishing the last 10%
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM
>> Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 5:33 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??
>>
>>
>> Today I calibrated my Proprietary System AOA computer. Bob Brumwell an
>> ex-carrier jet jockey and RV6 owner came along to do the honors while I
>> pushed the buttons. While we were still climbing to get above the
>scattered
>> cumulus, he suggested we practice one. I was still flying, so I nibbled
>into
>> it a little and the engine faltered a little. I turned the electric fuel
>> pump
>> on since the EIS was saying "zero pressure" like it usually does in a max
>> power climb but this usually has no impact on the engine operation( I
>think
>> this is because the pressure x-ducer is in the high pressure area of the
>> cowling). This time I leaned into the stick a little heavier and we were
>> weightless for several seconds and it sounded like the engine quit, but
>> refired when I went back to positive G. We also spelled raw fuel. It went
>> away almost instantly, but we both smelled it. We proceeded to do the
>> calibration at part power and the engine never missed a beat. Has anyone
>> ever
>> flown "zero g" with a carbed engine at max throttle and experienced this
>or
>> does anyone have a theory of why it did it.
>>
>> Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla, Off toOshkosh tomorrow on Delta
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | OSH rooms available |
Fellow Listers:
Due to a last minute change in plans, I have two rooms available in a great
private home 2 miles north of OSH. This is a 4- BR, air conditioned home
owned by Keith and Margaret Reichenbach. Myself and a friend will be
staying here, but our other two parties had to cancel at the last minute.
Thus, there are two bedrooms available on Tues, Wed, and Thurs nights.
(715-386-1239, or cell phone 612-867-0631) or after 1 pm you can call
Margaret at 920-231-1039. She is a great person and we sure would like
someone to share this nice home for the next three days.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
===========
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
Have you tried sucking on the tube going into the vacum gauge? That will
tell you if the gauge works.
N188sm(at)cs.com
RV8 fitting cowl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PosiTech Oil Coolers |
In spite of a WELL publicized failure of a Sebrab oil cooler, I suggest
you not rule them out...there are a bunch of them flying without failure
including in my plane...and only a 2" duct is used.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 250 hours
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> > Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the PosiTech oil coolers?
> > They seem to be about half the price of the Stewart Warners?
> >
> > Bruce Green
> > RV-8 plans
>
> Bruce,
> The overall summary of experiences by posters on the List, and others in our
> local builders's group, is that Posi Tech coolers are a great value and
> *very* solidly constructed, but don't cool as efficiently for a given size
> relative to the Niagara (aka Stewart/Warner, aka Harrison) units. Since
> every engine and cooler installation is different you really don't know up
> front whether it will cool adequately or not. I suggest you find someone
> with an overall installation just like yours and see how they are doing.
> BTW, several failures have been reported with the Setrab units so I think
> most listers are a bit tenuous about them. Lastly, check the archives
> carefully, I seem to remember at least one builder who installed a Posi Tech
> then switched to a Niagara and had noticably cooler temps with the Niagara.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, cowling (stuck in fiberglassland probably forever!)
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring flap relay (Postings) |
>
>
> Guys, I totally agree with you but this kind of a question requires a
picture
> or schematic to answer and we can't do that on the list so it almost has
to be
> an off list reply.
How cum? I find it quite simple to do drawings, sketches, photographs,
and post to drive space on my website. I taught my very non-techie
sister how to scan and post things . . . ANYONE can do it if they
want to. It takes a $75 scanner and an FTP program (free).
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 S Cowl tight fit at air inlet |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Paint trip summary, etc. (long) |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler discussion/placement |
There has been a great deal written lately about oil
cooler types and placement. This has led me to wonder
if anyone has thought of putting a separate NACA duct
on the cowling just to feed the oil cooler? Any
guesses as to the drag penalty?
It would seem to me that putting the cooler on the
intake or rear baffle permits some cooling air to be
stolen from #2 or #4 cylinders in order to feed the
cooler. I always suspected the rear baffle placement
of my AA5A's oil cooler to have contributed to my
three #4 cylinder overhauls in ten years due to
exhaust valve woes. The CHTs on this jug would always
be high. Not wanting to repeat history, I'm thinking
a separate duct might be the way to go.
RE Miller
80153 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??(AOA stuff) |
In a message dated 7/24/00 11:03:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
<< Are you using the Pro or Sport AOA? Details? >>
I am using the Sport AOA. Really do not have much to say about flying with it
yet, since we just cal'd it yesterday. The package was very complete, the
instructions are generally very good and when I screwed a part up, Jim
replaced it at no cost.
The lights and audibles are very good, now I just need to learn to fly
properly with it.
Bernie, 6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler discussion/placement |
In a message dated 7/25/00 4:58:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rmill2000(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< The CHTs on this jug would always
be high. Not wanting to repeat history, I'm thinking
a separate duct might be the way to go >>
Do not think it is a problem on the RV6A, I read all 4 CHT's and the #3 cyl.
typically runs hottest but all are around 380-390 degree F.
Bernie Kerr,6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Well, I must be confused then. No flame intended, but my flap hinge pin can
back out all the way to the bracket and through the hole and not even touch
the aileron in full deflection in either direction. The only interference
that can possibly occur is if the pin were to extend through the bracket
outboard and stick out the other side by 3/8". At that point the pin would
prevent full up deflection. But since I have a cotter pin in the hole, the
pin cannot back out that far. Hence, no possible interference.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (32 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
>
> If the pin backs out more than about 1/4" it will interfere with the
aileron
> control bracket and you won't get full travel on the aileron, so don't
depend
> on the pin hitting the bracket to stop it. I bent a tab on a small piece
of
> sheet metal and screwed it on to the end of the flap, with a #6 screw and
nut
> plate in place of a hinge rivet. ( the tab bends around the end of the
flap to
> keep it straight.
> Dave
>
> "Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
> >
> > Sure there is. Just put a cotter pin in the hole in the aileron bracket
and
> > that keeps the pin from interfering even if is should back out.
> >
> > Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (32 hours)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is
no
> > clever
> > > way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
> > aileron....or
> > > inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two
> > piece pin
> > > with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
> > >
> > >
> > > dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
> > >
> > > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
> > >
> > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> > > **********************************************
> > >
> > > writes:
> > > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > > If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it
> > > > seems
> > > > that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> > > > will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> > > > alternatives I see would be:
> > > > 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap
> > > > (must
> > > > remove some hinge eyelets)
> > > > 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> > > > brace.
> > > >
> > > > What are other builders out there doing?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Glenn Gordon
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | removing flap pins... |
I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
clever way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the aileron
I drilled (almost) a #6 screw hole in the aileron bracket and threaded for
#6 screw. With that big of a hole you can put a slight crook in the pin to
keep it from working inwards and still get it out through the #6 hole. Drop
a #6 with the weak locktite and you are good to go. Consider oiling the
pin. However, if you haven't painted yet, consider using boelube instead of
WD40 though. It may save you some fisheyes.
I do like the idea of the split pins though. Sounds like it might be worth
a shot.
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Dallas, TX (ADS)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum system Issues |
Somebody told me, after I moved here from Washington State, that the reason
Texas doesn't fall into the Gulf is because Oklahoma sucks. Hope that
clears up the confusion....
I heard that too. Anybody know if it is true?
Gary Fesenbek
RV6A
Big "D", Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler discussion/placement |
This is the way I installed my oil cooler on my Long-EZ. The cooler was
actually mounted to the bottom of the cowl and a NACA inlet was used to pull
air out of the cowling through the cooler.
I looked at that on my RV-6. The problem comes with getting the cowlings on
and off. I'm no expert, but I think the connections between the cooler and
the air inlet need to be tight in order to get enough air to flow through
the cooler. That would mean something connected between the NACA inlet on
the cowl and the cooler. This would greatly complicate getting the cowlings
on and off. There may also be a problem with the pressure differential
between the air entering the NACA inlet and the backpressure of the air
exiting the lower cowl.
In general, there seems to be enough air flowing into the cowling to provide
adequate cooling for the engine and the oil cooler. Some have had the
problem of not enough exit area to allow all that flow to leave the lower
cowl. Since I'm going to have to repaint my lower cowl due to replacing the
cowling hinges with nutplates and screws, I intend to open up the exit area
a little at the same time to see if it helps me with lowering the temps a
little.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (32 hours)
> There has been a great deal written lately about oil
> cooler types and placement. This has led me to wonder
> if anyone has thought of putting a separate NACA duct
> on the cowling just to feed the oil cooler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler discussion/placement |
>
>
>There has been a great deal written lately about oil
>cooler types and placement. This has led me to wonder
>if anyone has thought of putting a separate NACA duct
>on the cowling just to feed the oil cooler? Any
>guesses as to the drag penalty?
>
>It would seem to me that putting the cooler on the
>intake or rear baffle permits some cooling air to be
>stolen from #2 or #4 cylinders in order to feed the
>cooler. I always suspected the rear baffle placement
>of my AA5A's oil cooler to have contributed to my
>three #4 cylinder overhauls in ten years due to
>exhaust valve woes. The CHTs on this jug would always
>be high. Not wanting to repeat history, I'm thinking
>a separate duct might be the way to go.
>
>RE Miller
>80153 Finishing
I think this would be a very good option. I've considered it myself. I don't
think an additional NACA inlet would slow you down very much. A dedicated
air source that can only go through the cooler and not take a path of lesser
resistance (like down through the cylinders or through any baffle leaks)
would be very efficient. A friend of mine has an unlimited aerobatic
monoplane with two Stewart Warner coolers plumbed in series. They are
positioned in the front of the cowl where they receive direct air blast. He
has found that only one needs to be exposed to cool the IO-540 and it's even
partially masked off. During the winter, just a couple of inches of one of
the coolers is left unmasked and temps never go over 200 degrees.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
down for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Tue,
25 Jul 2000 10:07:59.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler discussion/placement |
Jerry Chungo of Boyton Beach Fl has a NACA duct on his cowl (RV6) exactly as you
suggest. The duct is on the bottom left side and his cooler is mounted low on
the firewall in a metal housing, a scat tube feeds the housing and a fiberglass
duct brings out the cooling air below the cowl. In the housing at the begining
of the duct is a gillotine cable actuated door to regulate oil temperature. The
door is never fully open since the NACA duct is extremely effective. He also has
a scat tube feeding the gascolator in the same fashion. He has never burned
anything but auto gas and has never even heard a hiccup in 500 hours. By the
way, its Africa-hot here.
Eric Henson
Rudder Cables
"Brian Denk" on 07/25/2000 09:21:07 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil cooler discussion/placement
>
>
>There has been a great deal written lately about oil
>cooler types and placement. This has led me to wonder
>if anyone has thought of putting a separate NACA duct
>on the cowling just to feed the oil cooler? Any
>guesses as to the drag penalty?
>
>It would seem to me that putting the cooler on the
>intake or rear baffle permits some cooling air to be
>stolen from #2 or #4 cylinders in order to feed the
>cooler. I always suspected the rear baffle placement
>of my AA5A's oil cooler to have contributed to my
>three #4 cylinder overhauls in ten years due to
>exhaust valve woes. The CHTs on this jug would always
>be high. Not wanting to repeat history, I'm thinking
>a separate duct might be the way to go.
>
>RE Miller
>80153 Finishing
I think this would be a very good option. I've considered it myself. I don't
think an additional NACA inlet would slow you down very much. A dedicated
air source that can only go through the cooler and not take a path of lesser
resistance (like down through the cylinders or through any baffle leaks)
would be very efficient. A friend of mine has an unlimited aerobatic
monoplane with two Stewart Warner coolers plumbed in series. They are
positioned in the front of the cowl where they receive direct air blast. He
has found that only one needs to be exposed to cool the IO-540 and it's even
partially masked off. During the winter, just a couple of inches of one of
the coolers is left unmasked and temps never go over 200 degrees.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
down for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Stab ribs RV-6 |
Steve,
My experience was that I drilled the ribs to the spars per plans, and they
did NOT line up that well with the holes. I had to do some remedial
drilling to get it to work out. If I had the VS to do over again (well,
actually I did this with the HS), I would first drill the holes into the rib
end flanges, put the skeleton into the skin, line everything up with the
holes, then mark the spars. That's a little tricky, but doable.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A
N143DJ (reserved)
>From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Vertical Stab ribs RV-6
>Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:28:03 -0700
>
>
>I'm currently drilling the ribs (VS806, VS407 & VS404) in the vertical
>stabilizer to the front spar (VS802). The plans say to mark the location on
>the front spar, but does it not make more sense to use the pre-punched
>holes
>in the skin to align the ribs?
>I'm thinking of just drilling the holes through the skin into the centre
>(they're marked) of the ribs and then fitting the front spar with the holes
>in the skin.
>Comments?
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>shurlbut(at)island.net
>RV-6A emp
>CF-SND
>Comox, BC, Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Johanson Fund |
Hi Earl:
My last list was not the complete list, I am posting only the names
following the previous post. Your name appears on my first post of July 18.
I also notice that I misspelled it (Forter), looks like I should post a
complete list at the end of the fund say about Aug 26/00.
Regards,
Eustace Bowhay
-----Original Message-----
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Monday, July 24, 2000 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jon Johanson Fund
>
>I did not see my name. Did you receive my check. I sent it early on.
>Regards, Earl Fortner
>
>Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>>
>>
>> The following are the contributors to the fund since my post of July
18/00
>>
>> RONALD VANDERVORT
>> RANDY LERVOLD
>> WAYNE BONESTEEL
>> DAVE BIDDLE
>> BILL COSTELLO
>> TODD MAGARGLE
>> JOHN KITZ
>> RANDY PLANZER
>>
>> In addition to these I know of several more that are in the mail. I am
going
>> to include a list of all of the contributors when the presentation is
made
>> to Jon. I feel everyone's name should be on this list.
>>
>> In order to make this possible I am going to arrange for the presentation
to
>> be made at Van's Homecoming at the banquet on Sept 3/00 rather than at
>> Oshkosh. Hopefully this will also result in some further contributions.
For
>> those of you who are going to be at Oshkosh pass the word to others but
lets
>> try to make it as much of a surprise as we can for the presentation.
>>
>> Thanks to all those who have contributed,
>>
>> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: To TSO or not to TSO ? |
>I am in the early stages of panel planning for my RV-8.
>Plan is to go for IFR capability.
>Question is: Is TSO certication required for any of the equipment in
order to
>get IFR certification ? I understand that IFR certification is mostly
>concerned with altitude (altimeter and transponder calibration). So does
altimeter and
>transponder need to be TSO'd ? Does any of the other NAV equipment require
>this certification ?
Just checked the latest FAR91 and a search for "tso"
yielded only citations for transponders, encoders, flight
data recorders, and ELT's. Periodic testing of
pitot static system and VOR checks are still there, of
course. There are requirements for certain instruments
but no callouts citing "approved" or "TSO" . . . . you
just have to have them. Note that exterior lighting
is called out as "approved."
----------------*************-----------------
Sec. 91.205 Powered civil aircraft with standard category U.S. airworthiness
certificates: Instrument and equipment requirements.
(a) General. Except as provided in paragraphs (c)(3) and (e) of this
section, no person may operate a powered civil aircraft with a standard
category U.S. airworthiness certificate in any operation described in
paragraphs (b) through (f) of this section unless that aircraft contains the
instruments and equipment specified in those paragraphs (or FAA-approved
equivalents) for that type of operation, and those instruments and items of
equipment are in operable condition.
(b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the
following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Airspeed indicator.
(2) Altimeter.
(3) Magnetic direction indicator.
(4) Tachometer for each engine.
(5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
(6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
(7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
(8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
(9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
(10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
landing gear.
(11) For small civil airplanes certificated after March 11, 1996, in
accordance with part 23 of this chapter, an approved aviation red or
aviation
white anticollision light system. In the event of failure of any light of
the
anticollision light system, operation of the aircraft may continue to a
location where repairs or replacement can be made.
(12) If the aircraft is operated for hire over water . .
(c) Visual flight rules (night). For VFR flight at night, the following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (b) of this section.
(2) Approved position lights.
(3) An approved aviation red or aviation white anticollision light system
on all U.S.-registered civil aircraft. Anticollision light systems initially
installed after August 11, 1971, on aircraft for which a type certificate
was
issued or applied for before August 11, 1971, must at least meet the
anticollision light standards of part 23, 25, 27, or 29 of this chapter, as
applicable, that were in effect on August 10, 1971, except that the color
may
be either aviation red or aviation white. In the event of failure of any
light of the anticollision light system, operations with the aircraft may be
continued to a stop where repairs or replacement can be made.
(4) If the aircraft is operated for hire, one electric landing light.
(5) An adequate source of electrical energy for all installed electrical
and radio equipment.
(6) One spare set of fuses, or three spare fuses of each kind required,
that are accessible to the pilot in flight.
(d) Instrument flight rules. For IFR flight, the following instruments and
equipment are required:
(1) Instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (b) of this section,
and, for night flight, instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (c)
of this section.
(2) Two-way radio communications system and navigational equipment
appropriate to the ground facilities to be used.
(3) Gyroscopic rate-of-turn indicator, except on the following aircraft:
(i) Airplanes with a third attitude instrument system usable through
flight attitudes of 360 degrees of pitch and roll and installed in
accordance
with the instrument requirements prescribed in Sec. 121.305(j) of this
chapter; and
(ii) Rotorcraft with a third attitude instrument system usable through
flight attitudes of +/-80 degrees of pitch and +/-120 degrees of roll and
installed in accordance with Sec. 29.1303(g) of this chapter.
(4) Slip-skid indicator.
(5) Sensitive altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure.
(6) A clock displaying hours, minutes, and seconds with a sweep-second
pointer or digital presentation.
(7) Generator or alternator of adequate capacity.
(8) Gyroscopic pitch and bank indicator (artificial horizon).
(9) Gyroscopic direction indicator (directional gyro or equivalent).
(e) Flight at and above 24,000 ft. MSL (FL 240). If VOR navigational
equipment is required under paragraph (d)(2) of this section, no person may
operate a U.S.-registered civil aircraft within the 50 states and the
District of Columbia at or above FL 240 unless that aircraft is equipped
with
approved distance measuring equipment (DME). When DME required by this
paragraph fails at and above FL 240, the pilot in command of the aircraft
shall notify ATC immediately, and then may continue operations at and above
FL 240 to the next airport of intended landing at which repairs or
replacement of the equipment can be made.
(f) Category II operations.
(g) Category III operations.
-----------------****************-----------------
Here endeth the reading of The Word . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
When I do "O"9 or neg g's in my fuel injected -6, I can smell fuel also,
so it can't be from the carb.
It comes out the tank vents and runs along the belly a little while
evaporating and you get the smell up thru the flap actuator holes.
Boyd
RV-S6
>
>
> 3 possibilities, Bernie:
> 1. When you were "weightless for several seconds" you caused the float
to
> move up and shut of the fuel as you "leaned into the stick".
> 2. The float is not adjusted properly - (Float to low) Shuts fuel off to
> quick.
> 3. The needle valve / float is sticking open (Raw Fuel Smell) when it needs
> to shut off during engine operation at low RPM / power off - Like during a
> stall...
>
> snip What
> concerns me most about what you described is the fuel fumes.
> If the tanks were full or almost full the fuel smell could of come from the
> vents and somehow got in the cockpit. If not this it can be a sticking float
> and that can be a safety issue.
> Hope this helps.
> snip
> Don Eaves
>snip RV-List message posted by: Rv660wm(at)aol.com
>
> snipThis time I leaned into the stick a little heavier and we were
> weightless for several seconds and it sounded like the engine quit, but
> refired when I went back to positive G. We also spelled raw fuel. It went
> away almost instantly, but we both smelled it. We proceeded to do the
> calibration at part power and the engine never missed a beat. Has anyone
> ever
> flown "zero g" with a carbed engine at max throttle and experienced this or
> does anyone have a theory of why it did it.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla, Off toOshkosh tomorrow on Delta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Naca and oil cooler |
Well folks I would not recommend this set-up unless you are absolutely sure
the location of the Naca will work. I am running a 200 HP IO-360 (slightly
tuned..Sky Dynamics cold air induction, Magnesium oil sump with flop tube
pick-up, 4-1 exhaust ...best system out there in my opinion) and MT prop. I
also have my NACA (5" x 1.5" built to exact specs) on the left side of the
lower cowl. All the walls of the Naca and plenum are smooth....a 4" dia
scat tube feeds the cooler...the scat tube is approx 7" long.....cooler is
firewall mounted. Well on the first flight the oil temp went up 10' f with
each orbit around the airport....at 230'f I landed. I then made another
flight and tried different power settings etc....and found it would
stabilize at 235'f at full power and if you pulled the power back it would
start to climb.....I then made a "defector plate" to force the air into the
Naca out of some .032 alum and attached it with some alum tape (great
stuff)...after some experimenting I have the temps down to 205'f at full
power here in sunny Phoenix, AZ. now I need to make the decision to
"glass-in" a scoop or make a alum "deflector" and screw it on (That will
certainly look like a after building fix). I am familiar with the Unlimited
monoplane that Brian D. is referring to and the coolers are at the front of
the cowl (right behind the prop) and are totally exposed to the prop blast;
there is no Naca or any scoop to speak of. This would work very well but
the cowl design of most RV's would not be real accommodating to this type
of installation. So my point is that Naca inlets need to be placed properly
or you will be disappointed with the results. A perfect example is the APU
inlet on the B-737....it is a Naca inlet.....well Boeing ended up mounting
a deflector to "help" the air on its way to the compressor section....heck
if Boeing engineers can mess it up the average builder can too.
Chris
----------
> From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil cooler discussion/placement
> Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 8:21 AM
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >There has been a great deal written lately about oil
> >cooler types and placement. This has led me to wonder
> >if anyone has thought of putting a separate NACA duct
> >on the cowling just to feed the oil cooler? Any
> >guesses as to the drag penalty?
> >
> >It would seem to me that putting the cooler on the
> >intake or rear baffle permits some cooling air to be
> >stolen from #2 or #4 cylinders in order to feed the
> >cooler. I always suspected the rear baffle placement
> >of my AA5A's oil cooler to have contributed to my
> >three #4 cylinder overhauls in ten years due to
> >exhaust valve woes. The CHTs on this jug would always
> >be high. Not wanting to repeat history, I'm thinking
> >a separate duct might be the way to go.
> >
> >RE Miller
> >80153 Finishing
>
> I think this would be a very good option. I've considered it myself. I
don't
> think an additional NACA inlet would slow you down very much. A dedicated
> air source that can only go through the cooler and not take a path of
lesser
> resistance (like down through the cylinders or through any baffle leaks)
> would be very efficient. A friend of mine has an unlimited aerobatic
> monoplane with two Stewart Warner coolers plumbed in series. They are
> positioned in the front of the cowl where they receive direct air blast.
He
> has found that only one needs to be exposed to cool the IO-540 and it's
even
> partially masked off. During the winter, just a couple of inches of one
of
> the coolers is left unmasked and temps never go over 200 degrees.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> down for paint
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 canopy skirt: filling holes |
I now have my canopy and skirt fitted. It looks very nice, except that,
after playing "find the holes in the canopy frame," I have several ugly
holes in the fiberglass skirt. These are at pop rivet locations and are
roughly 1/4" x 5/32" and irregular in shape.
Not knowing anything about composites, I'd like some advice. Should I fill
these with Bondo or with epoxy? Or is there another way to fix it?
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Fuel System Design 6-A |
Charlie,
Four RV's under construction in my area use this arrangement. None are
flying yet, so I can't report the pros and cons.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, baffling
Columbia, SC
What would be wrong with using two gascolators, one on each side in the
spaces between the tanks and the fuselage. It would obviously increase
the cost by one gascolator and slightly increase weight. But it would
simplify the installation, reduce the lines in the cockpit, and not
require the fuel selector to be on in order to drain either gascolator.
I like the idea of getting the gascolator out of the engine compartment
for two reasons. One is the heat. The other reason is to reduce the fire
danger in an accident. If the gascolator is mounted low in the engine
compartment, it is in jeopardy of being ripped off in any accident where
the cowl hits the ground. With the gascolator ripped off, the boost pump
(assuming it is on for landing or takeoff) would be feeding lots of gas
to any potential fire.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins... |
Fellows -
I have a variation of your solution to secure the flap hinge pin - I drilled
a hole through the aileron bracket for the pin to slide through and bent
the last 1" to 90 degrees so the pin cannot be pushed through to far. The
bent end is secured to the aileron bracket by drilling a second smaller
hole through the bracket and using saftey wire to hold the hinge pin from
working outward.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
>
> I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
> clever way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
aileron
>
>
> I drilled (almost) a #6 screw hole in the aileron bracket and threaded for
> #6 screw. With that big of a hole you can put a slight crook in the pin
to
> keep it from working inwards and still get it out through the #6 hole.
Drop
> a #6 with the weak locktite and you are good to go. Consider oiling the
> pin. However, if you haven't painted yet, consider using boelube instead
of
> WD40 though. It may save you some fisheyes.
>
> I do like the idea of the split pins though. Sounds like it might be
worth
> a shot.
>
> Gary Fesenbek
> RV6A
> Dallas, TX (ADS)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 canopy skirt: filling holes |
>Not knowing anything about composites, I'd like some advice. Should I fill
>these with Bondo or with epoxy? Or is there another way to fix it?
Me too George. Since I used the countersinking bit which found the hole in the
frame and was therefor lined up by default, at least my counter sank rivets will
be located in the right position. I noticed that when I test fitted several
rivets in the counter sank holes that it more than covered up the indiscretions
of playing hide and go seek. On the more egregious mistakes I plan to fill with
Superfil after the fact. This stuff is wonderful, so much so that I may just
cover up all the pops with it.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( mounting the CPU tonight! )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Yuck, Yuck Engine Question |
OK, get it out of your systems.
Har, har, har.
LOL
ROTFLMAO!!!!!
OK, now - would anybody happen to be sitting on an O-360 they'd
consider letting go of?
Or a decent core will do - I can have it rebuilt locally.
I want to run it fixed pitch so can be an A2A or something with a solid
crank.
Yes, I know, I'm running down all the normal sources (already talked
with Bobby for you Texicans) - and I've been in touch with Aero Sport
(NEW is out of the question). I just want to make sure I've covered
_all_ the bases before placing an order.
Buying the engine must be what having babies is like:
I have known this time was coming, but not how painful it would be!
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 canopy skirt: filling holes |
Poly Fiber's Fiber Fill epoxy two part (light blue) very light sandable
filler/bonding agent is fantastic stuff. I've used it for simular applications
as you mention plus hundreds more. Its very light and is very easy to use. It
costs about 13.00 dollars for a pint & half . Spruce & Wicks (and others) have
it.
aeronut58(at)hotmail.com@matronics.com on 07/25/2000 02:20:13 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: RV8 canopy skirt: filling holes
I now have my canopy and skirt fitted. It looks very nice, except that,
after playing "find the holes in the canopy frame," I have several ugly
holes in the fiberglass skirt. These are at pop rivet locations and are
roughly 1/4" x 5/32" and irregular in shape.
Not knowing anything about composites, I'd like some advice. Should I fill
these with Bondo or with epoxy? Or is there another way to fix it?
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins... |
MY assumption was I needed to spin the pin with my drill to get the 4 foot pin
in & out of the flap hinge. Bending the pin would not allow me to chuck up the
pin in the drill to spin the pin ( in & out) .............I have pretty tight
pins and I don't think I can push in 4 foot of hinge pin........
dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net on 07/25/2000 02:33:54 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins...
Fellows -
I have a variation of your solution to secure the flap hinge pin - I drilled
a hole through the aileron bracket for the pin to slide through and bent
the last 1" to 90 degrees so the pin cannot be pushed through to far. The
bent end is secured to the aileron bracket by drilling a second smaller
hole through the bracket and using saftey wire to hold the hinge pin from
working outward.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
>
> I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
> clever way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
aileron
>
>
> I drilled (almost) a #6 screw hole in the aileron bracket and threaded for
> #6 screw. With that big of a hole you can put a slight crook in the pin
to
> keep it from working inwards and still get it out through the #6 hole.
Drop
> a #6 with the weak locktite and you are good to go. Consider oiling the
> pin. However, if you haven't painted yet, consider using boelube instead
of
> WD40 though. It may save you some fisheyes.
>
> I do like the idea of the split pins though. Sounds like it might be
worth
> a shot.
>
> Gary Fesenbek
> RV6A
> Dallas, TX (ADS)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring flap relay |
Thanks Bob. Even though I have an associate's degree in electronics I'd
still rather not reinvent the wheel. Besides it's been many years since
I've designed anything. Thanks again!
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wiring flap relay
>
>I'd appreciate it if at least some replies are made on-list. I'd like to
>know too!
Here's a wiring diagram for multiple flap controls . . . you can
have as many as you wish in as many locations. The RELAYS are
necessary . . . this system has a safety feature in that simply
stops the flaps where they are in case of two, conflicting commands.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/flaps.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 canopy skirt: filling holes |
I would fill them with epoxy and sand them flush. There is also a filler called
Super Fill which does an excellent job for this kind of stuff too.
-Jeff
RV-8 Canopy Fitting
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 13:20:13 -0500
>
>I now have my canopy and skirt fitted. It looks very nice, except that,
>after playing "find the holes in the canopy frame," I have several ugly
>holes in the fiberglass skirt. These are at pop rivet locations and are
>roughly 1/4" x 5/32" and irregular in shape.
>
>Not knowing anything about composites, I'd like some advice. Should I fill
>these with Bondo or with epoxy? Or is there another way to fix it?
>
>George Kilishek
>N888GK (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David & Kim Clabots" <clabots(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Project for Sale |
Hi everyone,
I'm selling my RV-4 project, Plans #2496. I'm located in Green Bay, WI.
50 miles northeast of Oshkosh.
Empenage complete. Wings complete except for wing tip lights. Fuselage
kit started. Firewall and most bulkheads ready for primer and riveting.
Finishing kit has to be purchased. Some tools also available for sale.
See website for more details and photos: www.geocities.com/dclabots/
I will be at Oshkosh from Wednesday, July 26 through either Sunday, July
30 or Monday, July 31. See website for my cell phone number, etc. If
you're interested and going to Oshkosh it might be a good time to drive
up to Green Bay and check it out.
David W. Clabots
clabots(at)execpc.com
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system Issues |
I hate to intrude into this spellbinding discussion of whether Oklahoma sucks
or not but here is a helpful hint to those who are not yet up to plumbing
suction systems: The convention (as told to me by a real aviation mechanic)
is that the P stands for pressure and the V stands for vent. We want to
measure suction pressure. Oh well.
So quit calling them vacuum gages and remember the above and you may just get
it right on the first try.
In my surveys of planes under construction I have never found one yet
(including mine) that got it right on the first guess. It seems we all use
logic and decide the gage can be used for either pressure or "vacuum" systems,
then choose v for vacuum. Wrong.
D Walsh
name="deniswalsh.vcf"
filename="deniswalsh.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Walsh;Denis
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net
fn:Denis Walsh
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 69 Msgs - 07/24/00 |
If you want to use the one pin/hole in aileron bracket method here is a way
to retain the pin. Cut the pin a little short, about 3/8 to 1/2 inch.
Drill very small holes through the hinges at either end perpendicular to the
hinge and trap the hinge pin with lockwire through the holes at either end
of the hinge. Should work great.
Rich Crosley
RV8 Fuselage
*************
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
clever
way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the aileron....or
inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two piece
pin
with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Stab ribs RV-6 |
I ended up using the pre-punched skin to line up the holes on the vertical
stabilizer and it worked out great. Almost every single rivet is in the
middle of the rib flanges. The only tricky part was the centre rib as it was
very difficult to clamp it in any way. The measurements even work out after
the fact.
Thank for the help
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6A emp
CF-SND
Comox, BC, Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vertical Stab ribs RV-6
>
> Steve,
>
> My experience was that I drilled the ribs to the spars per plans, and they
> did NOT line up that well with the holes. I had to do some remedial
> drilling to get it to work out. If I had the VS to do over again (well,
> actually I did this with the HS), I would first drill the holes into the
rib
> end flanges, put the skeleton into the skin, line everything up with the
> holes, then mark the spars. That's a little tricky, but doable.
>
> Jim Bower
> St. Louis, MO
> RV-6A
> N143DJ (reserved)
>
>
> >From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Vertical Stab ribs RV-6
> >Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:28:03 -0700
> >
> >
> >I'm currently drilling the ribs (VS806, VS407 & VS404) in the vertical
> >stabilizer to the front spar (VS802). The plans say to mark the location
on
> >the front spar, but does it not make more sense to use the pre-punched
> >holes
> >in the skin to align the ribs?
> >I'm thinking of just drilling the holes through the skin into the centre
> >(they're marked) of the ribs and then fitting the front spar with the
holes
> >in the skin.
> >Comments?
> >
> >Steve Hurlbut
> >shurlbut(at)island.net
> >RV-6A emp
> >CF-SND
> >Comox, BC, Canada
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Poor Engine operation at "zero g"?? |
I agree Boyd- I did some investigation today as I worked under my 6 -
The fuel smell had to come from the fuel vents and it entered the Aircraft
as you said or under the wing root fairing into the cockpit. I think the
Carb vents into itself - Can't find my drawing - So if any came out there,
it was ingested into the engine.
Bug sprayers using Carbed engines experience momentary engine stoppage when
they jump fence rows etc. A heart stopper the first time you do this with
your wheels inched off the ground.
Never smelt fuel though. (Don't get dirty Boys & Girls - Lets keep the
list - Family Friendly)
Don Eaves
Carb Air Box Finished
Still finishing the Finishing Kit
Got a week off lets see what I can get done...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of InterMail
vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Poor Engine operation at "zero g"??
201-229-116) with ESMTP
When I do "O"9 or neg g's in my fuel injected -6, I can smell fuel also,
so it can't be from the carb.
It comes out the tank vents and runs along the belly a little while
evaporating and you get the smell up thru the flap actuator holes.
Boyd
RV-S6
>
>
> 3 possibilities, Bernie:
> 1. When you were "weightless for several seconds" you caused the
float to
> move up and shut of the fuel as you "leaned into the stick".
> 2. The float is not adjusted properly - (Float to low) Shuts fuel off to
> quick.
> 3. The needle valve / float is sticking open (Raw Fuel Smell) when it
needs
> to shut off during engine operation at low RPM / power off - Like during a
> stall...
>
> snip What
> concerns me most about what you described is the fuel fumes.
> If the tanks were full or almost full the fuel smell could of come from
the
> vents and somehow got in the cockpit. If not this it can be a sticking
float
> and that can be a safety issue.
> Hope this helps.
> snip
> Don Eaves
>snip RV-List message posted by: Rv660wm(at)aol.com
>
> snipThis time I leaned into the stick a little heavier and we were
> weightless for several seconds and it sounded like the engine quit, but
> refired when I went back to positive G. We also spelled raw fuel. It went
> away almost instantly, but we both smelled it. We proceeded to do the
> calibration at part power and the engine never missed a beat. Has anyone
> ever
> flown "zero g" with a carbed engine at max throttle and experienced this
or
> does anyone have a theory of why it did it.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla, Off toOshkosh tomorrow on Delta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Is there an expert out there who can explain how the Balun works!
There is no physical electical connection of the center wire
of the coax as explained in the Kitfox assembly manual and it
just does not look like it should work! The shield is split and
the VOR cat's whiskers are connected to each of the split ends of
the shielded wire.
There are three or four commonly used "balun" (short for balanced
to unbalanced) fabrication techniques using coaxial cable. You can
also do the job with little ferrite core transformers . . in fact
an antenna company in MO used to offer some antennas to amateur
airplane builders that used small transformers inside a molded
plastic center insulator on their products.
It's not easy to explain. Some excellent info on transmission line
theory and grass-roots practice can be gleaned from American Radio
Relay League's publications on antennas and feedlines for radio
amateurs.
I understand the purpose of the balun is to balance the impedance of the
feedline to that of the antenna.
Correct . . .
Is there another way to feed a VOR antenna?
Sure . . . hook the shield to one whisker and the center conductor
to the other whisker. Putting a balun in the system is a mixed bag.
It adds complexity . . . more solder joints . . . should be checked
with an antenna analyzer to see if everything is cut to proper
length . . . bottom line is that you'll not be able to percieve
any difference in performance by simply judging how well your VOR
receiver works. Other airframe effects such as electrical system noise,
p-static and atmospherics can have worse effects on VOR reciver performance
than the fact that you failed to "properly" terminate your coax cable
There's a popular kit offered where ferrite beads or toroids are
slipped over the coax in immediate vicinity of the feedline attachment
to the antenna. I illlustrate this in my book's chapter on antennas
and feedlines. I've since learned (and seen demonstrated in the
lab) that a few toroids are not enough to make a difference. It takes
several dozen to equal the effects of a properly implemented balun.
VHF is line of sight stuff. If you can "see" the station you can
hear it or talk to it and a wet string would probably suffice for
an antenna. The ol' vacuum tube radios of yesteryear needed EVERY
advantage we could give them . . . modern solid state receiver
technology will work with very marginal signals compared to 40
years ago.
Make it easy on yourself. Hook 'er up, make sure you do a good job
with the connections and protect them from stresses of vibration
and environment and call it quits . . . it'll work just fine.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wndwlkr711(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: 21 Years of the RV-ator |
Any free updates for those of us that bought the earlier version?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Supplier Directory |
I came across this site and wanted to pass it along for those unaware of its
existence. All contact info is by address and phone numbers (some old area
codes and no URLs) but definitely worth a look.
<http://kitplanes.com/supplier/suppcats.htm>
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Armstrong <Robert.Armstrong(at)wcom.com> |
Bob Nuckolls' explanation is (as usual) excellent and correctly points
out that the KISS method will probably serve you well in this
installation.
For more detailed info on Baluns, you can find a good article at
http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/8004019.pdf
Bob RV-9A
(AE0B, ARRL Technical Coordinator, Colorado Section)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Balun
Is there an expert out there who can explain how the Balun works!
There is no physical electical connection of the center wire
of the coax as explained in the Kitfox assembly manual and it
just does not look like it should work! The shield is split and
the VOR cat's whiskers are connected to each of the split ends of
the shielded wire.
There are three or four commonly used "balun" (short for balanced
to unbalanced) fabrication techniques using coaxial cable. You can
also do the job with little ferrite core transformers . . in fact
an antenna company in MO used to offer some antennas to amateur
airplane builders that used small transformers inside a molded
plastic center insulator on their products.
It's not easy to explain. Some excellent info on transmission line
theory and grass-roots practice can be gleaned from American Radio
Relay League's publications on antennas and feedlines for radio
amateurs.
I understand the purpose of the balun is to balance the impedance of the
feedline to that of the antenna.
Correct . . .
Is there another way to feed a VOR antenna?
Sure . . . hook the shield to one whisker and the center conductor
to the other whisker. Putting a balun in the system is a mixed bag.
It adds complexity . . . more solder joints . . . should be checked
with an antenna analyzer to see if everything is cut to proper
length . . . bottom line is that you'll not be able to percieve
any difference in performance by simply judging how well your VOR
receiver works. Other airframe effects such as electrical system
noise,
p-static and atmospherics can have worse effects on VOR reciver
performance
than the fact that you failed to "properly" terminate your coax cable
There's a popular kit offered where ferrite beads or toroids are
slipped over the coax in immediate vicinity of the feedline
attachment
to the antenna. I illlustrate this in my book's chapter on antennas
and feedlines. I've since learned (and seen demonstrated in the
lab) that a few toroids are not enough to make a difference. It takes
several dozen to equal the effects of a properly implemented balun.
VHF is line of sight stuff. If you can "see" the station you can
hear it or talk to it and a wet string would probably suffice for
an antenna. The ol' vacuum tube radios of yesteryear needed EVERY
advantage we could give them . . . modern solid state receiver
technology will work with very marginal signals compared to 40
years ago.
Make it easy on yourself. Hook 'er up, make sure you do a good job
with the connections and protect them from stresses of vibration
and environment and call it quits . . . it'll work just fine.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cotter pins for engine mount bolts |
Are the cotter pins for the bolts used to fasten the engine mount to the
firewall included with the kit? If so, can someone tell me which bag they
are supposed to be in? I searched through all my parts and can't find ones
that seem to fit right. I also did a search on one of the list of bag
contents at a web page and didn't see any reference to a cotter pin with
quantity six (this if for a 6A). I seem to have gotten very few cotter pins
with my kit and just recently purchased some for size 3 and 4 screws. Now
it seems like I may need to buy some for the size 6 screws also.
Doug Medema. RV-6A #21140. Rebuiling my engine and mounting the engine
mount
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | F-820PP little tabs, RV-8 |
If a guy screwed up and didn't get the two little tabs on the F-820PP,
forward side fuselage skin, flush with the vertexof the F-843, lower
longeron. What kind of problems would he run into installing the gear box?
The tabs are about 3/32" above (in the jig) the lower longeron.
Rich Crosley
RV-8 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 7/25/00 9:16:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
<< Is there another way to feed a VOR antenna?
Sure . . . hook the shield to one whisker and the center conductor
to the other whisker. Putting a balun in the system is a mixed bag. >>
So true. With the 55% scale P-38 replica we tried to get a good comm radio
antenna installation (composite aircraft with very little available flat area
for ground plane) that looked right for the plane. After trying a standard
whip, a balun, Archer etc., we ended up with just what Bob states above (coax
to the rear of the gondola and splitting into two wires going to the top of
each vertical stab). Sure it disobeys the vertical polarization rules for
comm but we have outstanding transmission and reception.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins... |
I found that with a little grease on the hinge pin that all 4 feet slide out
quite well - you do intend to lubricate this moving part anyway I hope, so
give it a try. You might be able to cut down on the tool count when you need
to remove that flap. You always will have your hand with you but not always
the drill :-)
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins...
>
>
> MY assumption was I needed to spin the pin with my drill to get the 4 foot
pin
> in & out of the flap hinge. Bending the pin would not allow me to chuck up
the
> pin in the drill to spin the pin ( in & out) .............I have pretty
tight
> pins and I don't think I can push in 4 foot of hinge pin........
>
>
> dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net on 07/25/2000 02:33:54 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins...
>
>
> Fellows -
>
> I have a variation of your solution to secure the flap hinge pin - I
drilled
> a hole through the aileron bracket for the pin to slide through and bent
> the last 1" to 90 degrees so the pin cannot be pushed through to far. The
> bent end is secured to the aileron bracket by drilling a second smaller
> hole through the bracket and using saftey wire to hold the hinge pin from
> working outward.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------
> Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
> Southern Alberta
>
> >
> > I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
> > clever way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
> aileron
> >
> >
> > I drilled (almost) a #6 screw hole in the aileron bracket and threaded
for
> > #6 screw. With that big of a hole you can put a slight crook in the pin
> to
> > keep it from working inwards and still get it out through the #6 hole.
> Drop
> > a #6 with the weak locktite and you are good to go. Consider oiling the
> > pin. However, if you haven't painted yet, consider using boelube
instead
> of
> > WD40 though. It may save you some fisheyes.
> >
> > I do like the idea of the split pins though. Sounds like it might be
> worth
> > a shot.
> >
> > Gary Fesenbek
> > RV6A
> > Dallas, TX (ADS)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
I am laying out my wiring diagram for my RV-4 and have several areas
where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can use
terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and add
weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
Ted Lumpkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Ed Hicks RV photography exclusive. |
<<< Ed Hicks just sent me (5) RV images that I'm
sure you all will appreciate.
> He really takes wonderful pictures and I'm sure
one of these will be your
> 'wallpaper' before the day is over.>>>
Great stuff Doug, keep them coming. Just the thing
for inspiration and motivation!!! I now have a new
selection of wallpapers to drool over.......
Ed really has a nack of getting a "perfect"
picture. Some of Ed's other shots on your "white
pages" website are equally as good. Just love the
one labeled "nice6"!!
Cheers, Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: F-820PP little tabs, RV-8 |
>
>If a guy screwed up and didn't get the two little tabs on the F-820PP,
>forward side fuselage skin, flush with the vertexof the F-843, lower
>longeron. What kind of problems would he run into installing the gear box?
>The tabs are about 3/32" above (in the jig) the lower longeron.
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 Fuselage
>
If the tabs were above the F-843, the holes that this guy drilled from the
F-820PP into the Wd-822 (I think that's the right number, I don't have my
plans with me) would be in the wrong position. This poor guy would have
edge distance problems on the bottom of the Wd-822 (bottom as in bottom
when the aircraft was upright).
See my web site for some info. Look in the Construction Photos section.
Someone recently discussed a fix with Vans, and sent me the info, but I
don't have it here with me. They looked at putting additional #8 screws up
and in between the bottom two rows of holes. That might work, but it needs
to be discussed with Vans.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (on the road in Argentina)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
FWIW, I used Van's technique on drilling the canopy . . . no cracks. I used
a hand electric drill on SLOW speed and a #40 to drill into the plexi. I
then used my air drill to drill into the canopy frame. Once all of this was
drilled, I removed the clecoes and drilled out (enlarged) the holes in the
plexi using a plexi drill. This last step was also done with an electric
drill, again, on SLOW speed. It was like putting a hot knife through
butter. I haven't done any of the rivets yet, so maybe this is where the
cracks occur?? Anyway, that's what I did and it seemed to have worked.
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Does anyone know anything good, or bad about the Allegro engine monitor?
http://www.allegroavionics.com
Vince Welch
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
>
>
>FWIW, I used Van's technique on drilling the canopy . . . no cracks. I
>used
>a hand electric drill on SLOW speed and a #40 to drill into the plexi. I
>then used my air drill to drill into the canopy frame. Once all of this
>was
>drilled, I removed the clecoes and drilled out (enlarged) the holes in the
>plexi using a plexi drill. This last step was also done with an electric
>drill, again, on SLOW speed. It was like putting a hot knife through
>butter. I haven't done any of the rivets yet, so maybe this is where the
>cracks occur?? Anyway, that's what I did and it seemed to have worked.
>Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB
You should be fine with the rivets. I followed the same drilling procedure,
used rivets per plans and no cracks. The canopy has been slammed aft a
couple of times (not intentionally!) during winter and summer temps, and no
problems at all.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
down for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can use
>terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and add
>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
Each three steps in wire gage is about a 2x change in copper
cross section. For example, three 22AWG wires would have about
the same copper as a 17AWG . . . A blue (14-16AWG) butt splice
would be fine for what you propose . . .
The PROBLEM is that the circuit you've described must be protected
for 22AWG wire . . . it's okay to use 14AWG to extend a long circuit
for the purpose of lowering voltage drop but the circuit protection
needs to be sized for the SMALLEST wire in the circuit.
What is your application where the three way split seems necessary?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>
>Bob Nuckolls' explanation is (as usual) excellent and correctly points
>out that the KISS method will probably serve you well in this
>installation.
>
>For more detailed info on Baluns, you can find a good article at
>http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/8004019.pdf
>
>Bob RV-9A
>(AE0B, ARRL Technical Coordinator, Colorado Section)
Bob, Thank you for the heads-up on the article. I've
stashed it in my growing file of .pdf "savers".
It was interesting to note the pattern distortion
generated by the "improper" antenna feed . . . I've
seen patterns about as bad on airplanes when the antenna
WAS properly feed and matched . . . all the sticky-out
things on airplanes can do some amazing damage to an
otherwise perfectly good antenna pattern!
Bob . . .
K0DYH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jah" <jah(at)abraxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-820PP little tabs, RV-8 |
Hi Rich,
I had a similar problem with my side skins. Although I do not remember how far
off I was with the tab everything worked out ok. I think Kevin suggested swapping
some of the rivet locations with the #8 screws. Although I did not do this,
in retrospect I wish I had. It gets very tight in the landing gear boxes. I
did not have edge distance problems I had problems with two of the bolts on each
side of the gear box running into the bent flange on the steel weldment that
goes inside the gear box.
I have logged eight hours just putting all the bolts and screws into the landing
gear boxes.
If I where to do it over again I would make the F-802C removeable or a section
of it removable so that you can work inside the boxes. Once you get the landing
gear drilled and bolted on, space is at a premimum inside the boxes.
I had to order some of the thin fiber loc nuts just to get all the bolts and screws
installed.
I would also mention that it pays to look ahead in the plans so you can visualize
where everything is going to end up relating to INSIDE the gear boxes.
I think one of Van's engineers got carried away in designing these gear boxes.
I would really like to know if any of the engineers at Van's who designed these
gear boxes have ever built a set. They could be much simpler and just as strong.
-Jeff
Gear boxes done! Finally!
RV-8 Canopy cutting soon.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 23:01:30 -0700
>
>If a guy screwed up and didn't get the two little tabs on the F-820PP,
>forward side fuselage skin, flush with the vertexof the F-843, lower
>longeron. What kind of problems would he run into installing the gear box?
>The tabs are about 3/32" above (in the jig) the lower longeron.
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
To enlarge the hole, use a Unibit (step bit). I received this advise from
Tom Green and worked real good. Lothar 6A tip up, just completed drilling
and cutting canopy
-----Original Message-----
: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
Be sure your #40 drill is dull-but still cuts....not brand new. Drag your finger
over the cutting edge and less drag equates to not sharp & more drag means more
sharp. I also used a UNI-BIT many times as a plexi drill (after pilot hole with
dull drill) with success.
"Brian Denk" on 07/26/2000 09:41:50 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling Canopy
>
>
>FWIW, I used Van's technique on drilling the canopy . . . no cracks. I
>used
>a hand electric drill on SLOW speed and a #40 to drill into the plexi. I
>then used my air drill to drill into the canopy frame. Once all of this
>was
>drilled, I removed the clecoes and drilled out (enlarged) the holes in the
>plexi using a plexi drill. This last step was also done with an electric
>drill, again, on SLOW speed. It was like putting a hot knife through
>butter. I haven't done any of the rivets yet, so maybe this is where the
>cracks occur?? Anyway, that's what I did and it seemed to have worked.
>Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO RV8A QB
You should be fine with the rivets. I followed the same drilling procedure,
used rivets per plans and no cracks. The canopy has been slammed aft a
couple of times (not intentionally!) during winter and summer temps, and no
problems at all.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
down for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 21 Years of the RV-ator |
andy
how much for the updates, if we don't qualify for the free update
thax
scott
tampa
rv6a engine & prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor |
Aviation consumer liked it. I recall reading a comparison article that featured
the Allegro about a month AFTER I purchased my 602 GEM . Otherwise I would
have gone with the Allegro & saved a few hundred dollars.
vwelch(at)knownet.net on 07/26/2000 08:51:42 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor
Does anyone know anything good, or bad about the Allegro engine monitor?
http://www.allegroavionics.com
Vince Welch
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-820PP little tabs, RV-8 |
> If a guy screwed up and didn't get the two little tabs on the F-820PP,
> forward side fuselage skin, flush with the vertexof the F-843, lower
> longeron. What kind of problems would he run into installing the gear
box?
> The tabs are about 3/32" above (in the jig) the lower longeron.
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8 Fuselage
Rich,
If a guy did this is wouldn't be good. It is indicative of something
misaligned in the critical fwd fuselage & firewall area. Alignment of
*everything* in this area is critical because it is the foundation the rest
of the fuselage is built upon. Imagine what a 1/8" error up front relates to
as it extends to the end of the fuse (sorry, I'm not very good at trig). The
F-820 skins should align perfectly with the firewall, the F-843, and the
main longeron. The bottom line is that you need to do what it takes to get
those three surfaces aligned. I suggest rechecking the alignment of your
forward jig uprights is all planes... I speak from personal experience here.
Otherwise Kevin has some good advice for you as well.
I don't mean to sound dire, but this is one of the most critical areas in
the whole plane alignment-wise because it effects everything behind it.
Spend the time here to get it right, other areas aren't so critical.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, presently in cowling prison
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
In a message dated 7/26/00 12:41:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
tlump(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I am laying out my wiring diagram for my RV-4 and have several areas
where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? >>
You can do a circular mil area calculation based on the individual wires. I
will get the data from work and post tonight.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
I don't know about the original poster's application, but in my case it's
panel and instrument lights. I can run all the grounds to the ground block
but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
dimmer or switch? Multiple 3-to-1 butt splices? Ring terminals bolted
together?
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can
use
>terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and add
>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
Each three steps in wire gage is about a 2x change in copper
cross section. For example, three 22AWG wires would have about
the same copper as a 17AWG . . . A blue (14-16AWG) butt splice
would be fine for what you propose . . .
The PROBLEM is that the circuit you've described must be protected
for 22AWG wire . . . it's okay to use 14AWG to extend a long circuit
for the purpose of lowering voltage drop but the circuit protection
needs to be sized for the SMALLEST wire in the circuit.
What is your application where the three way split seems necessary?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor |
I am a bit confused. I am still in the consideration stage of choosing
these things and I am trying to understand the advantages and drawbacks of
each type. It seems that the allegro comes out more expensive with less
monitoring than the Grand Rapids EIS. Is there something I'm missing?
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor
>
>
> Aviation consumer liked it. I recall reading a comparison article that
featured
> the Allegro about a month AFTER I purchased my 602 GEM . Otherwise I
would
> have gone with the Allegro & saved a few hundred dollars.
>
>
> vwelch(at)knownet.net on 07/26/2000 08:51:42 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor
>
>
> Does anyone know anything good, or bad about the Allegro engine monitor?
>
> http://www.allegroavionics.com
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Be sure your #40 drill is dull-but still cuts....not brand new. Drag your finger
over the cutting edge and less drag equates to not sharp & more drag means more
sharp. I also used a UNI-BIT many times as a plexi drill (after pilot hole with
dull drill) with success.
People,
Use the right tool for the right job. Although you might get away with using a
high speed drill, why risk it????? Go to a local plastic shop and buy plexi designed
for plexi use. There cheap and the right tool. I even think ACS sells
them.
Laird (RV-6) 60 hrs
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Emergency Landing in Arizona |
Listers,
The following is verbatim from this morning's Arizona Republic newspaper
:
A single engine plane made an emergency landing in the Northbound
lanes of Interstate 17 early Tuesday. No one was injured. The RV-6
homemade aircraft began to overheat after it took off from the Sedona
airport, authorities said.
The engine cut out as pilot David Smith neared Flagstaff and he
decided to land there. He set the plane down on the interstate and
turned onto the median between the southbound and northbound lanes.
I don't know David Smith, and I don't know if he's on the List, but I
want to congratulate him on handling this emergency like a professional.
George True, Phoenix AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
| Subject: | Emergency Landing in Arizona |
From http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/M_0726_N.TXT (excuse the formatting).
Doug Reeves
www.vainsairforce.net
**** 07/26/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 2 ****
A. Type: I Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 07/26/2000
From: WESTERN-PACIFIC REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
B. Reg. No.: 222CD M/M: RV6 Desc: RV-6
Activity: Unknown Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: PILOT NOTIFIED FLG ATCT THAT AIRCRAFT WAS OVERHEATING AND LOSING
POWER, PILOT LANDED ON I17 5 MILES SOUTH OF FLAGSTAFF, AZ
WX: METAR FLG 251656Z VRB03KT 10SM CLR 27/03 A3034
Damage: None
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: FLAGSTAFF State: AZ Country: US
E. Event Date: 07/25/2000 Time: 1623
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: WP07 DO City: SCOTTSDALE
Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: 5 S FLG ON I17 Flt Plan: UNK
Last Clearance: WX Briefing: U
Other:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: George True [SMTP:true(at)uswest.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 12:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Emergency Landing in Arizona
>
>
> Listers,
>
> The following is verbatim from this morning's Arizona Republic newspaper
> :
>
> A single engine plane made an emergency landing in the Northbound
> lanes of Interstate 17 early Tuesday. No one was injured. The RV-6
> homemade aircraft began to overheat after it took off from the Sedona
> airport, authorities said.
> The engine cut out as pilot David Smith neared Flagstaff and he
> decided to land there. He set the plane down on the interstate and
> turned onto the median between the southbound and northbound lanes.
>
> I don't know David Smith, and I don't know if he's on the List, but I
> want to congratulate him on handling this emergency like a professional.
>
> George True, Phoenix AZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
>but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
>dimmer or switch? Multiple 3-to-1 butt splices? Ring terminals bolted
>together?
>Regards,
>Greg Young
I'm going through this right now. Aircraft Spruce sells a build it your self
terminal block kit that will let you make it as long or as short as you want.
There are other sources for terminal blocks as well ( local electrical shops,
Radio Shack...) I located mine on the underside of the starboard switch panel
on my 8A. I used several ring lugs to jumper one side together and just have
one feed point at one end. This way I can make good solid ring lug connections
to each of my lights and run the whole lot through the dimmer. I made sure that
I left a few extra connection points on the block for any new lights that seem
to pop up every time I look at someone else's project.
My opinion is that if it looks like a hack solution than it probably is. I'm my
biggest critic.
Good luck,
Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( wiring and more wiring )
N89JA reserved
July 19, 2000 - July 26, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ix