RV-Archive.digest.vol-iy
July 26, 2000 - August 02, 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
"Van's Tech Support"
Subject: | RV6AQB Splice plate question. |
Is the lower rear main spar splice plate supposed to be removeable? Even
after removing the split seat rib(F619L) upper portion there isn't enough
"wiggle" room to get this thing out. I'm trying to do a real good cleanup
so that I can prep for finishing the construction.
Did I miss something, is something else needed to facilitate removal, or is
there no way to remove the splice plate?
Ralph Capen
60431
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
Subject: | Re: PosiTech Oil Coolers |
The Lycoming Engine Owner's Manual recommends oil temps between 165 -
220 degrees F without mention of different temp ranges for different oil
brand names.
Boyd
SW FL
>
>
> In a message dated 7/23/00 9:07:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, randy@rv-8.com
> writes:
>
> <<
> > Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with the PosiTech oil coolers?
> > They seem to be about half the price of the Stewart Warners? >>
>
> So far mine has performed too well. I have a 7row on 360-DIA mounted on the
> firewall which is supposedly the poorest cooling position. I have been flying
> June and July here in S Fla and my oil temp is running too cool per Shell's
> recommendation. The temps are 180 cruise and 200 on long hard climb. I am
> considering running the discharge thru the cockpit heat valve and removing
> the heat muff.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A 40 hours, SE Fla
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Emergency Landing in Arizona/high oil temp, etc. |
>Descr: PILOT NOTIFIED FLG ATCT THAT AIRCRAFT WAS OVERHEATING AND LOSING
> POWER, PILOT LANDED ON I17 5 MILES SOUTH OF FLAGSTAFF, AZ
I can see how engine temperature can get outta control in a HURRY in
Arizona. I don't know how you guys who live and fly there manage it! Anyway,
the hottest oil temp I've seen to date in my O-360/RV8 was on climbout from
Payson as reported in my paint job trip post a few days ago.
I read through the shell oil aviation products FAQ page yesterday for some
guidance from those who make the oil I currently use which is straight
weight, Aeroshell W100 Plus. From their indications, the use of the
multigrade weight 15W-50 should lower oil temps in high temperature
environments. Now, since the multi costs more than the straight, do you
folks think this is just a way to market the more costly oil or have any of
you found this temperature difference claim to be factual? I used the multi
during the winter and had a hard time getting the oil up to even 180 degrees
and it never went any higher. According to the Shell gurus, 200-210 degrees
is a good range to operate in. Higher than that, and the straight weight oil
will begin to generate acids, and lose viscosity faster than the multi. I've
been up to 230 so far, and normally run about 215 here at home during the
summer. Oil pressure when cold is 80psi, and 65 when hot. If just changing
out the oil to the multi and running it year round would take care of the
summertime overtemp issue, then I'll gladly do that.
Kudos to the pilot who landed it under control and without harming anyone on
the ground!
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
There are a few locations where I think I will have to splice. The
particular location I am working on now is for my trim and flap position
indicators. Because I couldn't stop myself, I have three axis trim on my
RV-4. This means four indicators (including flaps). I have all the
indicators located in a section of my center console. I want to run one
power wire from the fuse block, splice that into four wires to run to each
indicator. Same thing in reverse for ground. I was going to run a larger
gauge wire to the splice and then the smaller wires to the indicators
(through mate-n-lok connectors). As you mentioned, I would size the fuse
for the smaller wire, but would assume that none of the four indicators will
be drawing power simultaneously.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 7:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Wire Splicing
>
>> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can
use
>>terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and add
>>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
>
> Each three steps in wire gage is about a 2x change in copper
> cross section. For example, three 22AWG wires would have about
> the same copper as a 17AWG . . . A blue (14-16AWG) butt splice
> would be fine for what you propose . . .
>
> The PROBLEM is that the circuit you've described must be protected
> for 22AWG wire . . . it's okay to use 14AWG to extend a long circuit
> for the purpose of lowering voltage drop but the circuit protection
> needs to be sized for the SMALLEST wire in the circuit.
>
> What is your application where the three way split seems necessary?
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The VonDane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor |
Your not missing anything... I still say the GR EIS4000 is the best "bang
for the buck"...
AND... They offer a 1 year unconditional money back guarantee! I'm putting
one in my -8A...
This thing will do your pitot instruments too... I bet you could mount one
in the back of a -4 or -8. Check the mounting dimensions...
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/enginfosys/mdl4-6.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado
RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor
I am a bit confused. I am still in the consideration stage of choosing
these things and I am trying to understand the advantages and drawbacks of
each type. It seems that the allegro comes out more expensive with less
monitoring than the Grand Rapids EIS. Is there something I'm missing?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
I am using a fuse block for my main buss per Bob Nuckolls/Aeroelectic
Connection. Does anyone know of a source for small amp fuses? Couple of my
instruments call for a 1 and/or 2 amp fuse, smallest I have been able to find
is a 3.
Warren Moore
RV4, firewall forward.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Cockpit size question |
Could use a little "inside" help. I'm looking to buy/build a two place side
by side airplane. Since I've not been 170# in forty plus years I need as
wide a cockpit as possible. (6-0, 227#) All kinds of stats on those
airplanes under consideration but I need one that is lacking in most of my
reading materials. The question ? : How wide are the cockpits at hips and
shoulder on Ercoupe, Alon, Colt, Skipper, RV-6a, RV-9a, Yankee, Tommyhawk,
150, 172, Kitfox and any other nose drager 2 place or 2 place+. Still
working on last 5% of Gummibear's Rocket, I'm still a little shaky but back
to limited work. Thanks for your support. Kabong
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Mounting LRI probe |
I am about to mount the Lift Reserve Indicator Probe on the underside of my
RV-6A QB wing. I'd like to know where other LRI user's have mounted theirs.
The easiest positions available are just aft of the main spar (similar to the
bell crank inspection port). However, that seems to violate the instructions
which say mount it between 15% and 30% of the chord or 9" to 20" aft of the
leading edge. I estimate it has to be mounted forward of the main spar to meet
these requirements. With a QB wing, that's harder since the forward section of
the wing is all closed up already.
So, for those who have the LRI, where did you mount the probe and is it working
OK there?
Thanks,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
>
> I am using a fuse block for my main buss per Bob Nuckolls/Aeroelectic
> Connection. Does anyone know of a source for small amp fuses? Couple of
my
> instruments call for a 1 and/or 2 amp fuse, smallest I have been able to
find
> is a 3.
>
> Warren Moore
> RV4, firewall forward.
>
Bob has them now on his web site.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
I would suggest getting a catalog from Newark Electronics. It is
available in printed or CD form. They have just about everything!
Their website is at http://www.newark.com/
Hope this helps!
Scott
RV4 Tail
MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> I am using a fuse block for my main buss per Bob Nuckolls/Aeroelectic
> Connection. Does anyone know of a source for small amp fuses? Couple of my
> instruments call for a 1 and/or 2 amp fuse, smallest I have been able to find
> is a 3.
>
> Warren Moore
> RV4, firewall forward.
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Burton"<dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cockpit size question |
Hi John,
If you don't get an answer here, go to rec.aviation.homebuilt and ask for
Ron
Wantaja's website (or use a search engine to find it), I'm at work and don't
have the address with me. He hangs out on RAH, and also is the author of a
book on homebuilding. He is a "large" guy and has a great list of aircraft
and the interior sizes on his website. He also is frequently published in Kitplanes,
and should have a great report from Arlington soon.
Good luck,
Dave
>
>Could use a little "inside" help. I'm looking to buy/build a two place side
>by side airplane. Since I've not been 170# in forty plus years I need as
>wide a cockpit as possible. (6-0, 227#) All kinds of stats on those
>airplanes under consideration but I need one that is lacking in most of my
>reading materials. The question ? : How wide are the cockpits at hips and
>shoulder on Ercoupe, Alon, Colt, Skipper, RV-6a, RV-9a, Yankee, Tommyhawk,
>150, 172, Kitfox and any other nose drager 2 place or 2 place+. Still
>working on last 5% of Gummibear's Rocket, I'm still a little shaky but back
>to limited work. Thanks for your support. Kabong
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Burton"<dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cockpit size question |
Hi John,
If you don't get an answer here, go to rec.aviation.homebuilt and ask for
Ron
Wantaja's website (or use a search engine to find it), I'm at work and don't
have the address with me. He hangs out on RAH, and also is the author of a
book on homebuilding. He is a "large" guy and has a great list of aircraft
and the interior sizes on his website. He also is frequently published in Kitplanes,
and should have a great report from Arlington soon.
Good luck,
Dave
>
>Could use a little "inside" help. I'm looking to buy/build a two place side
>by side airplane. Since I've not been 170# in forty plus years I need as
>wide a cockpit as possible. (6-0, 227#) All kinds of stats on those
>airplanes under consideration but I need one that is lacking in most of my
>reading materials. The question ? : How wide are the cockpits at hips and
>shoulder on Ercoupe, Alon, Colt, Skipper, RV-6a, RV-9a, Yankee, Tommyhawk,
>150, 172, Kitfox and any other nose drager 2 place or 2 place+. Still
>working on last 5% of Gummibear's Rocket, I'm still a little shaky but back
>to limited work. Thanks for your support. Kabong
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cockpit size question |
John....I'm 6'...250#...and fit in my ercoupe quite well, with enough room for
another 250# person also...with that weight, it's a good thing the ercoupe
never learned to read the book on weight limits..(slightly over gross)....but
the ercoupe handles it with ease, especially with the 100hp...I also have a
almost completed mustang-II that has good room also, altho, if you yse the T-18
canopy, yo are a bit cramped...I went out to van's the other day, and sat in
thoer demos, and even I fit into the "4"! but it was a bit cramped, but once
in, it was comfortable...(getting out, was a different story)...huff &
puff...the rest of them...6A, 8A, and the 9A were dreams..altho I can't afford
them, and I guess never will....if you want to see my "little fellows" please
goto <<<http://www.pcez.com/~fancies/proptips... and look around....good
luck...jolly in aurora, ore.
John Starn wrote:
>
> Could use a little "inside" help. I'm looking to buy/build a two place side
> by side airplane. Since I've not been 170# in forty plus years I need as
> wide a cockpit as possible. (6-0, 227#) All kinds of stats on those
> airplanes under consideration but I need one that is lacking in most of my
> reading materials. The question ? : How wide are the cockpits at hips and
> shoulder on Ercoupe, Alon, Colt, Skipper, RV-6a, RV-9a, Yankee, Tommyhawk,
> 150, 172, Kitfox and any other nose drager 2 place or 2 place+. Still
> working on last 5% of Gummibear's Rocket, I'm still a little shaky but back
> to limited work. Thanks for your support. Kabong
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cockpit size question |
> How wide are the cockpits at hips and
> shoulder on Ercoupe, Alon, Colt, Skipper, RV-6a, RV-9a, Yankee,
> Tommyhawk, 150, 172, Kitfox and any other nose drager 2 place or 2 >
place+.
Hey Jack,
Don't have measurements but from experience can offer opinions.
:)
The RV cockpit is about 44 inches I think - the -6A and -9A are
probably the same. You would fit into one (with electric flaps) as
long as you limit your pax size.
Kitfox would be a squeeze - would be a single-place for a big person.
150 is definitely out!
The 172 would work although can be tough to get into and out of for a
big person.
A "Traumahawk" would work well - easy entry and exit, plenty of room
inside - but then you'd be flying... a Tomahawk!
:\
Can't offer thoughts on the others. The shame of it is, I've never had
the chance to fly in an Ercoupe! Like every other choice you have to
examine your mission - fast or slow, build or fly, etc.
Do the -6! Do the -6! Do the -6!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Cockpit size question - here you go... |
Just follow this link and you'll see most cockpit measurements in detail -
most homebuilt and many certified aircraft.
http://www.halcyon.com/wanttaja/cockpit.html
Regards,
Are
RV-8 (left elevator)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Thompson
Sent: July 27, 2000 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cockpit size question
> How wide are the cockpits at hips and
> shoulder on Ercoupe, Alon, Colt, Skipper, RV-6a, RV-9a, Yankee,
> Tommyhawk, 150, 172, Kitfox and any other nose drager 2 place or 2 >
place+.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
Consider daisy chaining the instruments rather than an octopus splice. It
makes for a cleaner and (I believe) stronger installation since you will
only be splicing 2 wires into one lug rather than 4.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Lumpkin [mailto:tlump(at)mediaone.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 5:51 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Wire Splicing
There are a few locations where I think I will have to
splice. The
particular location I am working on now is for my trim and
flap position
indicators. Because I couldn't stop myself, I have three
axis trim on my
RV-4. This means four indicators (including flaps). I
have all the
indicators located in a section of my center console. I
want to run one
power wire from the fuse block, splice that into four wires
to run to each
indicator. Same thing in reverse for ground. I was going
to run a larger
gauge wire to the splice and then the smaller wires to the
indicators
(through mate-n-lok connectors). As you mentioned, I would
size the fuse
for the smaller wire, but would assume that none of the four
indicators will
be drawing power simultaneously.
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
To: Recipient list suppressed
Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 7:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Wire Splicing
>
>> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several
areas
>>where I will want to splice one wire into several others.
I know this can
>>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt
splices. What I
>>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine
what size crimp
>>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14
ga. wire to three
>>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there
some way to convert
>>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge?
I know I can
use
>>terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot
of space and add
>>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
>
> Each three steps in wire gage is about a 2x change in
copper
> cross section. For example, three 22AWG wires would have
about
> the same copper as a 17AWG . . . A blue (14-16AWG) butt
splice
> would be fine for what you propose . . .
>
> The PROBLEM is that the circuit you've described must be
protected
> for 22AWG wire . . . it's okay to use 14AWG to extend a
long circuit
> for the purpose of lowering voltage drop but the circuit
protection
> needs to be sized for the SMALLEST wire in the circuit.
>
> What is your application where the three way split seems
necessary?
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing (driving multiple loads from one output) |
>> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can
>>use terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and
add
>>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
>I don't know about the original poster's application, but in my case it's
>panel and instrument lights. I can run all the grounds to the ground block
>but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
>dimmer or switch? Multiple 3-to-1 butt splices? Ring terminals bolted
>together?
Here's the compact, low cost alternative to terminal strips . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/minibus.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
message posted by: MOOREWAR(at)aol.com
>>
>> I am using a fuse block for my main buss per Bob Nuckolls/Aeroelectic
>> Connection. Does anyone know of a source for small amp fuses? Couple
of my
>> instruments call for a 1 and/or 2 amp fuse, smallest I have been able to
find
>> is a 3.
>>
>> Warren Moore
>> RV4, firewall forward.
>>
We now stock the 1 and 2 amp fuses on our website catalog . . .
See http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
I believe I have a couple of posts in the achieves on the subject but after
reading the current posts thought I could add some additional info from what
I have learned and observed over the years.
The engine oil temp on the Lycomings we are using is controlled by the
thermostatic valve. This valve threads into the oil filter adapter, it looks
like a heavy duty coil spring with a ball on the end. (Not a good
description). On the top or the valve it should have the temperature setting
stamped into it. This is usually 85C which converts to around 185F.
From what I have been told, on a cold start oil pressures within the engine
and cooler can be as high as 300 PSI. This is not indicated on the oil
pressure gauge due to were the reading is being taken from. As the engine
warms up the spring in the vernatherm valve begins to expand closing of the
bypass and forcing more oil through the cooler to maintain the 185 F
setting. I have found that this setting can vary five degrees or so either
way.
If the oil temperature goes above say 190 F it is telling us that we have
reached the limit of the cooler's ability to cool the oil so cooler size and
location becomes critical.
The approach I took to it was based on past experience. As there was no
standard installation for the RV6 with an 0360 that I was aware of I used
some guide lines that I would be comfortable with, safety and reliably being
the priority.
I chose to use the Stewart Warner model 8432 because it is one of the most
proven coolers with years of use and I had seen it used on other certified
installations and have been told it will pressure test up to 600 PSI. The
dimensions of the basic cooler is 3 1/2 inches thick, 5 1/2 x 8. With the
two 90 degree fittings in the front it becomes 6 3/4 front to back. It is a
9 row cooler.
I installed it under the left front engine baffle with a 4 x 5 3/4 opening
in the baffle with the inlet and outlet fittings facing forward. There is
ample room for it here. I didn't want to cut a hole in the back baffle and h
ave the scat tube in the rear as associated with a firewall mounted
installation and possible loss of cylinder cooling efficiency. On the other
hand I wasn't sure what my installation would do the the cooling on #2
cylinder. I ran the cooler lines between the cylinders and the intake pipes
to the accessory case.
The end result was a pleasant surprise. I use a "Insight Gem" graphic
display for engine monitoring and my 0360 is fuel injected. I have total
control over my oil temps. Using 75% power for climb and 115-120 indicated
the oil temp never exceeds 200, even at take-off temps as high as 95 F. By
the time it reaches 195 to 200 you are in cool enough air and the power has
dropped so that it returns to the thermo valve setting. In level flight at
65% it will maintain the basic setting flying in OAT as high as 100.
Mounting in this location has no effect on the cooling of # 2 cylinder, all
four as basically the same.
Would be happy to help off the list to anyone interested, I also have
pictures of the installation.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
> Would be happy to help off the list to anyone interested, I also have
> pictures of the installation.
>
Eustace,
I'm building an RV9A and would be interested in some pics of the oil cooler
installation if it wouldn't be too much trouble.
--
Regards,
Chuck Weyant
EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
Santa Maria, CA
805 347-8882
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 7/26/00 8:52:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time, MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Does anyone know of a source for small amp fuses? >>
Hi Warren: AAMR/Air
Core/ATO/ATC Fuses We have them.
Best regards,
Robin@ AAMR/AirCore
________________________________________________________________________________
ebowhay(at)jetstream.net@matronics.com on 07/27/2000 12:54:02 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Thermostatic valve/oil temp
(repost)
I believe I have a couple of posts in the achieves on the subject but after
reading the current posts thought I could add some additional info from what
I have learned and observed over the years.
The engine oil temp on the Lycomings we are using is controlled by the
thermostatic valve. This valve threads into the oil filter adapter, it looks
like a heavy duty coil spring with a ball on the end. (Not a good
description). On the top or the valve it should have the temperature setting
stamped into it. This is usually 85C which converts to around 185F.
From what I have been told, on a cold start oil pressures within the engine
and cooler can be as high as 300 PSI. This is not indicated on the oil
pressure gauge due to were the reading is being taken from. As the engine
warms up the spring in the vernatherm valve begins to expand closing of the
bypass and forcing more oil through the cooler to maintain the 185 F
setting. I have found that this setting can vary five degrees or so either
way.
If the oil temperature goes above say 190 F it is telling us that we have
reached the limit of the cooler's ability to cool the oil so cooler size and
location becomes critical.
The approach I took to it was based on past experience. As there was no
standard installation for the RV6 with an 0360 that I was aware of I used
some guide lines that I would be comfortable with, safety and reliably being
the priority.
I chose to use the Stewart Warner model 8432 because it is one of the most
proven coolers with years of use and I had seen it used on other certified
installations and have been told it will pressure test up to 600 PSI. The
dimensions of the basic cooler is 3 1/2 inches thick, 5 1/2 x 8. With the
two 90 degree fittings in the front it becomes 6 3/4 front to back. It is a
9 row cooler.
I installed it under the left front engine baffle with a 4 x 5 3/4 opening
in the baffle with the inlet and outlet fittings facing forward. There is
ample room for it here. I didn't want to cut a hole in the back baffle and h
ave the scat tube in the rear as associated with a firewall mounted
installation and possible loss of cylinder cooling efficiency. On the other
hand I wasn't sure what my installation would do the the cooling on #2
cylinder. I ran the cooler lines between the cylinders and the intake pipes
to the accessory case.
The end result was a pleasant surprise. I use a "Insight Gem" graphic
display for engine monitoring and my 0360 is fuel injected. I have total
control over my oil temps. Using 75% power for climb and 115-120 indicated
the oil temp never exceeds 200, even at take-off temps as high as 95 F. By
the time it reaches 195 to 200 you are in cool enough air and the power has
dropped so that it returns to the thermo valve setting. In level flight at
65% it will maintain the basic setting flying in OAT as high as 100.
Mounting in this location has no effect on the cooling of # 2 cylinder, all
four as basically the same.
Would be happy to help off the list to anyone interested, I also have
pictures of the installation.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil Coolers/Oil Pressure |
Could someone likewise explain the oil pressure control system on the Lycomming
?. I have read up on it but am at a loss to find any data (now) in the Lycomming
manual or in my collected reading pile.
ebowhay(at)jetstream.net@matronics.com on 07/27/2000 12:54:02 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Oil Coolers
I believe I have a couple of posts in the achieves on the subject but after
reading the current posts thought I could add some additional info from what
I have learned and observed over the years.
The engine oil temp on the Lycomings we are using is controlled by the
thermostatic valve. This valve threads into the oil filter adapter, it looks
like a heavy duty coil spring with a ball on the end. (Not a good
description). On the top or the valve it should have the temperature setting
stamped into it. This is usually 85C which converts to around 185F.
From what I have been told, on a cold start oil pressures within the engine
and cooler can be as high as 300 PSI. This is not indicated on the oil
pressure gauge due to were the reading is being taken from. As the engine
warms up the spring in the vernatherm valve begins to expand closing of the
bypass and forcing more oil through the cooler to maintain the 185 F
setting. I have found that this setting can vary five degrees or so either
way.
If the oil temperature goes above say 190 F it is telling us that we have
reached the limit of the cooler's ability to cool the oil so cooler size and
location becomes critical.
The approach I took to it was based on past experience. As there was no
standard installation for the RV6 with an 0360 that I was aware of I used
some guide lines that I would be comfortable with, safety and reliably being
the priority.
I chose to use the Stewart Warner model 8432 because it is one of the most
proven coolers with years of use and I had seen it used on other certified
installations and have been told it will pressure test up to 600 PSI. The
dimensions of the basic cooler is 3 1/2 inches thick, 5 1/2 x 8. With the
two 90 degree fittings in the front it becomes 6 3/4 front to back. It is a
9 row cooler.
I installed it under the left front engine baffle with a 4 x 5 3/4 opening
in the baffle with the inlet and outlet fittings facing forward. There is
ample room for it here. I didn't want to cut a hole in the back baffle and h
ave the scat tube in the rear as associated with a firewall mounted
installation and possible loss of cylinder cooling efficiency. On the other
hand I wasn't sure what my installation would do the the cooling on #2
cylinder. I ran the cooler lines between the cylinders and the intake pipes
to the accessory case.
The end result was a pleasant surprise. I use a "Insight Gem" graphic
display for engine monitoring and my 0360 is fuel injected. I have total
control over my oil temps. Using 75% power for climb and 115-120 indicated
the oil temp never exceeds 200, even at take-off temps as high as 95 F. By
the time it reaches 195 to 200 you are in cool enough air and the power has
dropped so that it returns to the thermo valve setting. In level flight at
65% it will maintain the basic setting flying in OAT as high as 100.
Mounting in this location has no effect on the cooling of # 2 cylinder, all
four as basically the same.
Would be happy to help off the list to anyone interested, I also have
pictures of the installation.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pcondon(at)csc.com.Thu, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004511424@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
27 Jul 2000 11:54:56.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: Oil Coolers/Oil Pressure |
Could someone likewise explain the oil pressure control system on the Lycomming
?. I have read up on it but am at a loss to find any data (now) in the Lycomming
manual or in my collected reading pile.
ebowhay(at)jetstream.net@matronics.com on 07/27/2000 12:54:02 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Oil Coolers
I believe I have a couple of posts in the achieves on the subject but after
reading the current posts thought I could add some additional info from what
I have learned and observed over the years.
The engine oil temp on the Lycomings we are using is controlled by the
thermostatic valve. This valve threads into the oil filter adapter, it looks
like a heavy duty coil spring with a ball on the end. (Not a good
description). On the top or the valve it should have the temperature setting
stamped into it. This is usually 85C which converts to around 185F.
From what I have been told, on a cold start oil pressures within the engine
and cooler can be as high as 300 PSI. This is not indicated on the oil
pressure gauge due to were the reading is being taken from. As the engine
warms up the spring in the vernatherm valve begins to expand closing of the
bypass and forcing more oil through the cooler to maintain the 185 F
setting. I have found that this setting can vary five degrees or so either
way.
If the oil temperature goes above say 190 F it is telling us that we have
reached the limit of the cooler's ability to cool the oil so cooler size and
location becomes critical.
The approach I took to it was based on past experience. As there was no
standard installation for the RV6 with an 0360 that I was aware of I used
some guide lines that I would be comfortable with, safety and reliably being
the priority.
I chose to use the Stewart Warner model 8432 because it is one of the most
proven coolers with years of use and I had seen it used on other certified
installations and have been told it will pressure test up to 600 PSI. The
dimensions of the basic cooler is 3 1/2 inches thick, 5 1/2 x 8. With the
two 90 degree fittings in the front it becomes 6 3/4 front to back. It is a
9 row cooler.
I installed it under the left front engine baffle with a 4 x 5 3/4 opening
in the baffle with the inlet and outlet fittings facing forward. There is
ample room for it here. I didn't want to cut a hole in the back baffle and h
ave the scat tube in the rear as associated with a firewall mounted
installation and possible loss of cylinder cooling efficiency. On the other
hand I wasn't sure what my installation would do the the cooling on #2
cylinder. I ran the cooler lines between the cylinders and the intake pipes
to the accessory case.
The end result was a pleasant surprise. I use a "Insight Gem" graphic
display for engine monitoring and my 0360 is fuel injected. I have total
control over my oil temps. Using 75% power for climb and 115-120 indicated
the oil temp never exceeds 200, even at take-off temps as high as 95 F. By
the time it reaches 195 to 200 you are in cool enough air and the power has
dropped so that it returns to the thermo valve setting. In level flight at
65% it will maintain the basic setting flying in OAT as high as 100.
Mounting in this location has no effect on the cooling of # 2 cylinder, all
four as basically the same.
Would be happy to help off the list to anyone interested, I also have
pictures of the installation.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Listers,
Some of you may have exaggerated your airplane's performance; shoot, I
may have exaggerated my airplane's performance. Well, here is everyone's
chance to prove it and have a good time doing it.
The Pecos Valley Air Race and Fly-In is Saturday, October 28, 2000 at
Artesia, New Mexico. Early arrivals on Friday, Oct. 27 can participate
in a chili stew supper.
The race itself starts at 11:00 AM on Saturday. It is a 100 statute mile
triangle over sparsely populated and flat terrain. There will be 20
second interval staggered starts with the fastest leaving first and four
classes: 200 cubic inches and below, 300 cubes, 400 cubes and 401 cubic
inches and above.
There will be food, paper airplane contests and other activities.
Lodging:
Pecos Inn Best Western, 505-748-3324 - Restaurant
Holiday Inn Express, 505-748-3904 - Continental Breakfast
The Artesia Airport has a limited number of tiedowns, so bring your own.
Race pilots or people needing information and fliers to post call
505-622-3458. The airport phone is 505-748-3206.
This event is sponsored by the EAA chapters at Moriarity, Roswell,
Carlsbad and the City of Artesia and is being spearheaded by Tom & Lynn
Benedict who have a reputation of being excellent hosts. They had to
finally end the fly-in at their house in Dexter because it became too
popular.
I'm looking forward to flying with/against people from at least
Phoenix/Tucson, Denver/Colorado Springs, Lubbock, Dallas/Ft. Worth,
Albuquerque and the smaller towns within that area.
Come on out!
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Cockpit size question |
In a message dated 7/27/00 2:58:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jhstarn(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< How wide are the cockpits at hips and
shoulder on Ercoupe, Alon, Colt, Skipper, RV-6a, RV-9a, Yankee, Tommyhawk,
150, 172, Kitfox and any other nose drager 2 place or 2 place+. >>
My RV-6 (built to plans) cockpit is 42.5 wide except at the canopy deck
(39.5"), and at the arm rests (37"). My Tomahawk was noticably wider at the
shoulders, and a 150 is noticably narrower. I don't have either of these
types in my garage, or I'd be glad to measure them for ya...
Kyle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "russell parr" <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Any Detroit area RV'ers out there? |
I have just taken a job at Willow Run airport. I have an RV-4 and I'm
looking for a place to tie down/hangar it. I want to be able to get to
Willow Run within 20 minutes from where I keep my airplane because I'll be
on
call with this new job. If there are any Detroit area general aviation
types out there who might want a hangar partner or know where good deals are
to keep an airplane near Willow Run please let me know. Thanks, Russ Parr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Dupont ChromaBase |
List: I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring NO
BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on the
outside as well.
Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish?
Tom
in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
Thanks guys, ordering them now from Bob.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | opening a tip-up canpy |
Hi,
I am looking for some ideas on a way to make it possible to open the
tip-up canopy on an RV-6. I have seen small pieces of angle stock
riveted to the side of the canopy, but doesn't that require two people
to lift it simultaneously? Has anyone done a retractable handle located
on the center of the top of the canopy? how about a spring plunger
located in the center that opens the canopy slightly as soon as the
latch is released?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
Subject: | Re: opening a tip-up canpy |
>
>Hi,
>
>I am looking for some ideas on a way to make it possible to open the
>tip-up canopy on an RV-6. I have seen small pieces of angle stock
>riveted to the side of the canopy, but doesn't that require two people
>to lift it simultaneously? Has anyone done a retractable handle located
>on the center of the top of the canopy? how about a spring plunger
>located in the center that opens the canopy slightly as soon as the
>latch is released?
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
Seems to me that you're over complicating a simple situation. My RV-6
had a tip-up canopy. I simply added a small angle on the left side of
the canopy and lifted it up from there.
The canopy is light enough that you can easily do that without warping
or bending the frame.
The KISS principle is important; don't bother trying to fix a problem
that doesn't exist.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
Council Member, Snohomish Indian Tribe
http://members.home.net/ammeterj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Dupont ChromaBase |
Similar question . . . I'm looking at Sherwin Williams Sunfire epoxy paint
for my interior (available through their auto paints division). Any
comments on pro's, con's, what to look out for??? Thanks in advance,
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO (RV8A)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dupont ChromaBase
>
>List: I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
>the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
> The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring NO
>BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
>went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on the
>outside as well.
> Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish?
> Tom
>in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: opening a tip-up canpy |
Glenn: John had the right idea.... small angle on pilot side is all you need.
I installed one on my 6A, works great. I use the angle to just get the canopy
started, then lift it with the other hand at the top center. Simple/easy.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mounting LRI probe |
Nancy and Walter Shipley wrote:
> Tom, I mounted my LRI probe assembly on the first inboard inspection plate
> of my left wing. In this position, although the probe base is behind the
> spar, the openings in the probe are well within the specified distance from
> the leading edge (16 - 17") since the probe angles forward.
>
> Hope this makes sense
>
> Walt Shipley RV8A QB
> N314TS Reserved
Walt:
I checked the measurements, and I believe you are correct, no more than 18
inches anyway. Did you replace the cover plate on the aileron bell crank
instaction port? Also, If you're flying with it, how does the unit work with
the probe in that position?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Wire Conduit Question |
Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I have heard of people using PVC or similar conduit in the wings for conduit
> for running electrical wire. Has anyone done this and could provide some
> guidance?? I have 1/2" OD PVC pipe, do I drill the hole in the ribs to 1/2"
> so the fit tight, or larger and included a grommet?? If a grommet, what
> type?? Any help (pictures?) etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> -Mike
Mike:
Van's advised me to go to the hardware store and buy half inch polyethylene
tubing (practically any type of tubing is OK). I drilled half inch holes thru
the wing ribs using my step drill. I also made a little template to position it
relative to the spar & skin. The tubing slid thru easily. I don't think
grommets are necessary. My EAA tech counselor said last week that you can use
larger tubing tubing also. I think after I get everything finally assembled,
I'll put a dab of RTV or Ultra-blue on it to keep it from sliding around.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
> Hi,
> If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it seems
> that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> alternatives I see would be:
> 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap (must
> remove some hinge eyelets)
> 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> brace.
>
> What are other builders out there doing?
>
Glenn:
My eaa tech counselor has built an RV-6A (soon to fly, finally) and
says he drilled the hole in the aileron brace. He's been in aircraft
maintenance all his life, so I take his suggestions seriously. I think
as long as it is VERY well secured (secure it with a #6 screw next to it
and put a nylock nut on the screw) it is a good idea. I plan to do it
too.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net |
Subject: | Re: opening a tip-up canpy |
Glenn,
A small piece of angle stock on the side is exactly how I have it. I lift
up the canopy with my left hand just enough for my right index and middle
fingers to get under the center part of the canopy. Then lift up the rest
of the way using both hands. You'll find this works quite well. You'll
also find that pushing inward while lifting with your left hand initially
will help p the canopy moving straight up rather than slightly sideways.
Anh
N985VU
Maryland
>
>Hi,
>
>I am looking for some ideas on a way to make it possible to open the
>tip-up canopy on an RV-6. I have seen small pieces of angle stock
>riveted to the side of the canopy, but doesn't that require two people
>to lift it simultaneously? Has anyone done a retractable handle located
>on the center of the top of the canopy? how about a spring plunger
>located in the center that opens the canopy slightly as soon as the
>latch is released?
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)AOL.COM |
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
Hello Listers:
Please go to my Home Page and read the announcement. I am closing AAMR/AirCore/
Reasons for this move are on this page. I am leaving the How To Pages up for
your info finding needs.
So it's been fun and work.
Please support Electric Bob...He's a great guy and a valuable asset. Send him
your orders and maybe he can keep his doors open.
Best regards,
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Dupont ChromaBase |
In a message dated 7/27/00 7:20:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
<< I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring NO
BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on the
outside as well.
Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish? >>
ChromaBase or Chroma One? My plane was painted by Randy Ford of T&P
Aerofinishers using scotchbrite burnish, alumiprep, alodine, Sterling Epoxy
Primer and DuPont Chroma One. Trim colors are ChromaBase with Clearcoat. It
was my understanding that ChromaBase alone is not a catalyzed finish (the
catalyst is in the Clearcoat) and may therefore remain solvent (fuel)
sensitive.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM.Fri, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004517370@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
27 Jul 2000 15:37:12.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: Cockpit size question |
In a message dated 7/27/00 2:58:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jhstarn(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< How wide are the cockpits at hips and
shoulder on Ercoupe, Alon, Colt, Skipper, RV-6a, RV-9a, Yankee, Tommyhawk,
150, 172, Kitfox and any other nose drager 2 place or 2 place+. >>
My RV-6 (built to plans) cockpit is 42.5 wide except at the canopy deck
(39.5"), and at the arm rests (37"). My Tomahawk was noticably wider at the
shoulders, and a 150 is noticably narrower. I don't have either of these
types in my garage, or I'd be glad to measure them for ya...
Kyle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "russell parr" <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Any Detroit area RV'ers out there? |
I have just taken a job at Willow Run airport. I have an RV-4 and I'm
looking for a place to tie down/hangar it. I want to be able to get to
Willow Run within 20 minutes from where I keep my airplane because I'll be
on
call with this new job. If there are any Detroit area general aviation
types out there who might want a hangar partner or know where good deals are
to keep an airplane near Willow Run please let me know. Thanks, Russ Parr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Dupont ChromaBase |
List: I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring NO
BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on the
outside as well.
Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish?
Tom
in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM.Fri, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004522955@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
27 Jul 2000 19:12:29.-0700(at)matronics.com
Thanks guys, ordering them now from Bob.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | opening a tip-up canpy |
Hi,
I am looking for some ideas on a way to make it possible to open the
tip-up canopy on an RV-6. I have seen small pieces of angle stock
riveted to the side of the canopy, but doesn't that require two people
to lift it simultaneously? Has anyone done a retractable handle located
on the center of the top of the canopy? how about a spring plunger
located in the center that opens the canopy slightly as soon as the
latch is released?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
Subject: | Re: opening a tip-up canpy |
>
>Hi,
>
>I am looking for some ideas on a way to make it possible to open the
>tip-up canopy on an RV-6. I have seen small pieces of angle stock
>riveted to the side of the canopy, but doesn't that require two people
>to lift it simultaneously? Has anyone done a retractable handle located
>on the center of the top of the canopy? how about a spring plunger
>located in the center that opens the canopy slightly as soon as the
>latch is released?
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
Seems to me that you're over complicating a simple situation. My RV-6
had a tip-up canopy. I simply added a small angle on the left side of
the canopy and lifted it up from there.
The canopy is light enough that you can easily do that without warping
or bending the frame.
The KISS principle is important; don't bother trying to fix a problem
that doesn't exist.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
Council Member, Snohomish Indian Tribe
http://members.home.net/ammeterj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Dupont ChromaBase |
Similar question . . . I'm looking at Sherwin Williams Sunfire epoxy paint
for my interior (available through their auto paints division). Any
comments on pro's, con's, what to look out for??? Thanks in advance,
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO (RV8A)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dupont ChromaBase
>
>List: I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
>the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
> The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring NO
>BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
>went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on the
>outside as well.
> Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish?
> Tom
>in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Rvator97(at)AOL.COM.Fri, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004524454@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
27 Jul 2000 20:16:52.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: opening a tip-up canpy |
Glenn: John had the right idea.... small angle on pilot side is all you need.
I installed one on my 6A, works great. I use the angle to just get the canopy
started, then lift it with the other hand at the top center. Simple/easy.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mounting LRI probe |
Nancy and Walter Shipley wrote:
> Tom, I mounted my LRI probe assembly on the first inboard inspection plate
> of my left wing. In this position, although the probe base is behind the
> spar, the openings in the probe are well within the specified distance from
> the leading edge (16 - 17") since the probe angles forward.
>
> Hope this makes sense
>
> Walt Shipley RV8A QB
> N314TS Reserved
Walt:
I checked the measurements, and I believe you are correct, no more than 18
inches anyway. Did you replace the cover plate on the aileron bell crank
instaction port? Also, If you're flying with it, how does the unit work with
the probe in that position?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing Wire Conduit Question |
Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I have heard of people using PVC or similar conduit in the wings for conduit
> for running electrical wire. Has anyone done this and could provide some
> guidance?? I have 1/2" OD PVC pipe, do I drill the hole in the ribs to 1/2"
> so the fit tight, or larger and included a grommet?? If a grommet, what
> type?? Any help (pictures?) etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> -Mike
Mike:
Van's advised me to go to the hardware store and buy half inch polyethylene
tubing (practically any type of tubing is OK). I drilled half inch holes thru
the wing ribs using my step drill. I also made a little template to position it
relative to the spar & skin. The tubing slid thru easily. I don't think
grommets are necessary. My EAA tech counselor said last week that you can use
larger tubing tubing also. I think after I get everything finally assembled,
I'll put a dab of RTV or Ultra-blue on it to keep it from sliding around.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
Glenn & Judi wrote:
> Hi,
> If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it seems
> that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> alternatives I see would be:
> 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap (must
> remove some hinge eyelets)
> 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> brace.
>
> What are other builders out there doing?
>
Glenn:
My eaa tech counselor has built an RV-6A (soon to fly, finally) and
says he drilled the hole in the aileron brace. He's been in aircraft
maintenance all his life, so I take his suggestions seriously. I think
as long as it is VERY well secured (secure it with a #6 screw next to it
and put a nylock nut on the screw) it is a good idea. I plan to do it
too.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net.Fri, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004525858@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
27 Jul 2000 21:28:04.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: opening a tip-up canpy |
Glenn,
A small piece of angle stock on the side is exactly how I have it. I lift
up the canopy with my left hand just enough for my right index and middle
fingers to get under the center part of the canopy. Then lift up the rest
of the way using both hands. You'll find this works quite well. You'll
also find that pushing inward while lifting with your left hand initially
will help p the canopy moving straight up rather than slightly sideways.
Anh
N985VU
Maryland
>
>Hi,
>
>I am looking for some ideas on a way to make it possible to open the
>tip-up canopy on an RV-6. I have seen small pieces of angle stock
>riveted to the side of the canopy, but doesn't that require two people
>to lift it simultaneously? Has anyone done a retractable handle located
>on the center of the top of the canopy? how about a spring plunger
>located in the center that opens the canopy slightly as soon as the
>latch is released?
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM.Fri, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004527365@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
27 Jul 2000 22:59:38.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: Dupont ChromaBase |
In a message dated 7/27/00 7:20:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
<< I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring NO
BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on the
outside as well.
Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish? >>
ChromaBase or Chroma One? My plane was painted by Randy Ford of T&P
Aerofinishers using scotchbrite burnish, alumiprep, alodine, Sterling Epoxy
Primer and DuPont Chroma One. Trim colors are ChromaBase with Clearcoat. It
was my understanding that ChromaBase alone is not a catalyzed finish (the
catalyst is in the Clearcoat) and may therefore remain solvent (fuel)
sensitive.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Subject: | Rear Spar to Rib rivet locations |
Folks
I am preparing my Rear Spar components and note that Dwg 14 shows the
two flange Strips W-607B & C 3 3/4 inch apart, but does not give a
dimension locating these "vertically". This may not seem a big deal
until you sit a rib against the rear spar and realise that at ribs 4 & 5
the lowest rivet will have marginl edge distance in the rib flange. The
problem is complicated by Vans dwgs not showing that the outboard rivets
need to be less than 3/4 inch from the Strap edges,due to strap taper,
location at at mid strap width would be logical.
From my preliminary measurements I beleive that the upper strap
(W-607C)has to be located hard up into the top flange radius, and of
course have it's edge bevelled/radiused to fit flat. If this is not
done the lower strap will be too low and the lowest rivet will only have
about 1 diameter edge distance in the rib flange.
What say you have all been down this road.
Thanks
Graham Murphy
Wintery Blenheim
New Zealand
RV-6A empennage and stating wing bits (cant build wing jig yet moving
house October).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dupont ChromaBase |
ChromaBase is the name for the Dupont Line and covers all the products in
the line. Single stage is ChromaOne.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 1:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dupont ChromaBase
>
> In a message dated 7/27/00 7:20:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
>
> << I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
> the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
> The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring
NO
> BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
> went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on
the
> outside as well.
> Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish?
>>
>
> ChromaBase or Chroma One? My plane was painted by Randy Ford of T&P
> Aerofinishers using scotchbrite burnish, alumiprep, alodine, Sterling
Epoxy
> Primer and DuPont Chroma One. Trim colors are ChromaBase with Clearcoat.
It
> was my understanding that ChromaBase alone is not a catalyzed finish (the
> catalyst is in the Clearcoat) and may therefore remain solvent (fuel)
> sensitive.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Dupont ChromaBase |
Sherwin Williams Sunfire epoxy paint wears like concrete. Very durable and wear
resistant. The Dupont ChromaBase is also a superior product with easier
clean-up. I've used both and both are good products. Rumor has it that Sunfire
is used on missles other hi-tech applications and also chemical plants use it.
My most recent purchase was the Dupont ChromaBase because the store was closer,
the product was a little cheeper, it was Saturday & I was lazy and I didn't
quite need the qualities of the Sunfire product.
rickjory(at)email.msn.com@matronics.com on 07/27/2000 10:54:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dupont ChromaBase
Similar question . . . I'm looking at Sherwin Williams Sunfire epoxy paint
for my interior (available through their auto paints division). Any
comments on pro's, con's, what to look out for??? Thanks in advance,
Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO (RV8A)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dupont ChromaBase
>
>List: I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
>the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
> The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring NO
>BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
>went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on the
>outside as well.
> Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish?
> Tom
>in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wing Wire Conduit Question |
I went to the hardware store and purchased closeline prop-up poles. They were
aluimum , thin walled & cheap. I lopped off the ends, primed & used adel clamps
to hold in position inside my lightning holes. Installation was quick.
sarg314(at)azstarnet.com on 07/27/2000 11:38:55 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Wire Conduit Question
Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I have heard of people using PVC or similar conduit in the wings for conduit
> for running electrical wire. Has anyone done this and could provide some
> guidance?? I have 1/2" OD PVC pipe, do I drill the hole in the ribs to 1/2"
> so the fit tight, or larger and included a grommet?? If a grommet, what
> type?? Any help (pictures?) etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> -Mike
Mike:
Van's advised me to go to the hardware store and buy half inch polyethylene
tubing (practically any type of tubing is OK). I drilled half inch holes thru
the wing ribs using my step drill. I also made a little template to position it
relative to the spar & skin. The tubing slid thru easily. I don't think
grommets are necessary. My EAA tech counselor said last week that you can use
larger tubing tubing also. I think after I get everything finally assembled,
I'll put a dab of RTV or Ultra-blue on it to keep it from sliding around.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | F-802 riveting questions |
I'm just finishing up riveting my fuse and a couple of questions have
arisen:
1) The manual calls for the bolts to be installed between the F-802N
upper brace and the gear boxes, but makes no mention of the rivets in
the same area. Is there any reason not to install those rivets at this
point?
2) This section of the manual makes no mention of permanently riveting
and bolting the F-802T upper brace to the gear boxes, but I couldn't
find it called out later. Shall I also install this piece now?
Various comments on the vagaries of the manual withheld... :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
riveting fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F-802 riveting questions |
I know this is a half-assed answer but is there any harm leaving a clecko or two
there in lieu of a rivet now ?. Every question I ever had regarding plans was
eventaully made clear-------- sometime later. I allways made a note of my
apparent confusion on the plans with a date......sometime later, often on
another related part, the light finally goes on. Other times I look at my note
and can't figure what the problem is......it all makes sence now......go figure.
Actually, the clecko in place untill otherwise figured out-- is the lazy mans
way out. It is actually more time consuming to rebuild/undrill or otherwise
repair a part I was to eager with in the firstplace.......
kbalch1(at)mediaone.net on 07/28/2000 11:44:16 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: F-802 riveting questions
I'm just finishing up riveting my fuse and a couple of questions have
arisen:
1) The manual calls for the bolts to be installed between the F-802N
upper brace and the gear boxes, but makes no mention of the rivets in
the same area. Is there any reason not to install those rivets at this
point?
2) This section of the manual makes no mention of permanently riveting
and bolting the F-802T upper brace to the gear boxes, but I couldn't
find it called out later. Shall I also install this piece now?
Various comments on the vagaries of the manual withheld... :-)
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
riveting fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: opening a tip-up canpy |
The spring assist/gas shocks on the canopy also distributes the bending
moment and aids in the ballance & lift of the canopy. The shocks do assist in
the lift ,so the weight you are worried about is shared by the canopy pivots &
gas shocks. I agree with the poster that there is no real issue here..........
ammeterj(at)home.com@matronics.com on 07/27/2000 10:58:28 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: opening a tip-up canpy
>
>Hi,
>
>I am looking for some ideas on a way to make it possible to open the
>tip-up canopy on an RV-6. I have seen small pieces of angle stock
>riveted to the side of the canopy, but doesn't that require two people
>to lift it simultaneously? Has anyone done a retractable handle located
>on the center of the top of the canopy? how about a spring plunger
>located in the center that opens the canopy slightly as soon as the
>latch is released?
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
>
Seems to me that you're over complicating a simple situation. My RV-6
had a tip-up canopy. I simply added a small angle on the left side of
the canopy and lifted it up from there.
The canopy is light enough that you can easily do that without warping
or bending the frame.
The KISS principle is important; don't bother trying to fix a problem
that doesn't exist.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
Council Member, Snohomish Indian Tribe
http://members.home.net/ammeterj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | AAMR/AirCore/MarineCore Closure |
John,
I am sorry to hear that the we home builders were not able to rally around
your business. I found it to be one of the best retail sites around and by
far the best for electrical supplies. Your service was great, the prices
fair and the "extra" info a real bonus.
I wish you all the best in your next venture.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Dupont ChromaBase |
Rick,
I used the SW Sunfire Epoxy for my interior. I added a flattening agent to
it as I didn't want a glossy finish for the interior. It when on very easy
and has a good durable finish. While I 'm not flying yet (next month) it
has held up to my dropping tools, wire, nuts/bolts and everything else and
hasn't chipped.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
almost there, almost there
>From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Dupont ChromaBase
>Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 20:54:17 -0600
>
>
>Similar question . . . I'm looking at Sherwin Williams Sunfire epoxy paint
>for my interior (available through their auto paints division). Any
>comments on pro's, con's, what to look out for??? Thanks in advance,
>Rick Jory, Highlands Ranch, CO (RV8A)
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 7:45 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Dupont ChromaBase
>
>
> >
> >List: I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint
>on
> >the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
> > The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring
>NO
> >BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
> >went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on
>the
> >outside as well.
> > Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish?
> >
>Tom
> >in Ohio
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: F-802 riveting questions |
No harm, per se, but it's a lot easier to get the rivet gun on the rivets with
the
side skins off. Once the side skins are in place, it'll be difficult to get a
good
shot at the rivets even with an offset rivet set in the gun. I've certainly left
my
share of clecos in while awaiting enlightenment, but had hoped to avoid that here
for this reason. I called Van's, but was told that no technical assistance will
be
Ken
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> I know this is a half-assed answer but is there any harm leaving a clecko or
two
> there in lieu of a rivet now ?. Every question I ever had regarding plans was
> eventaully made clear-------- sometime later. I allways made a note of my
> apparent confusion on the plans with a date......sometime later, often on
> another related part, the light finally goes on. Other times I look at my note
> and can't figure what the problem is......it all makes sence now......go figure.
> Actually, the clecko in place untill otherwise figured out-- is the lazy mans
> way out. It is actually more time consuming to rebuild/undrill or otherwise
> repair a part I was to eager with in the firstplace.......
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
Subject: | Rudder bottom--with or w/o tail light provision? |
Guys,
I'm filling out my empennage order for an RV-8, and I'm supposed to circle
whether I want a rudder bottom WITH or WITHOUT provision for a tail light...
what's the general concensus? I have no idea!!
Troy Whistman
Fort Worth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rudder bottom--with or w/o tail light provision? |
Troy,
I opted for WITHOUT because I didn't want any wire runs to the tail. I have
the Aeroflash units that are on the wingtips and has the strobes, and
nav/position lights built into each unit. Some folks opt for strobe and nav
light encased in the leading edges of wing tips that has a lense cover over
it and the position light in the rudder for aerodynamics. This limits
viewing angles of the lights in the wing tips. You can always order it
without and Van's will swap it if you change your mind.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
(aeroflash units in wing tips and wig-wag landing lights......very
visible!!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 6:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder bottom--with or w/o tail light provision?
>
> Guys,
>
> I'm filling out my empennage order for an RV-8, and I'm supposed to circle
> whether I want a rudder bottom WITH or WITHOUT provision for a tail
light...
> what's the general concensus? I have no idea!!
>
> Troy Whistman
> Fort Worth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Rudder bottom--with or w/o tail light provision? |
troy, first question to answer is are you going to fly at night? if so, you
can have wing tip nav lights (red and green) with white aft hat can be seen
from the rear, if you enclose your nav lights in side the wing tip fiberglass
they can not be seen from the rear and you must have light in tail, make
sense? in other words you must have position light that can be seen from the
rear one way or another. i probably will install on wing tip with white aft
and rudder also. vans ass. catalogue in the lighting section explains the
regs on this, or you can try www.aeroflash.com and www. whelan??? not sure
spelling on last, some of the listers can tell ya however i think at the
whealn site you can see a pic explaining what i tried up top. bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
In a message dated 7/26/00 9:29:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
> You should be fine with the rivets. I followed the same drilling procedure,
> used rivets per plans and no cracks. The canopy has been slammed aft a
> couple of times (not intentionally!) during winter and summer temps, and
no
> problems at all.
The source of my problems with canopy cracks was uneven expansion/shrinking
of the 4130 frame and the plexi. It occurred at the very back of the canopy.
It gets HOT here in Texas. Mark Goldberg RV-8 N982RV 107 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Need to contact Shirt vendor from W. Palm Beach |
Listers,
Sorry to bother you with this. I dumped a lot of old email when I
upgraded my PC. I am looking for the gentleman from the Palm Beach,
Florida area who offered to produce RV related shirts in time for Sun N'
Fun this past spring. Can anyone give me the name and email address of
this gentleman?? He's probably at Oshkosh now.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings riveting wing skins
Boca Raton, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | tip up without gas shocks? |
I ask this question from ignorance - I haven't opened an RV tip-up canopy and I
haven't gotten to building mine yet - but after listening to all this
discussion I have to ask if there isn't a practical alternative to the gas
shocks. The hood on my Toyota has no springs on it. I just lift it up and
swing a steel rod into place to keep it up. (Granted, I'm standing infront ot
the hood when I do that, not sitting underneath the center of it.) But would
it be possible to replace the tip-up's gas struts with straight rods that just
latch into place when the canopy is lifted up by some other means? I'm
thinking real low tech here ,trying to imagine a system that exerts no force
when the canopy is closed.
How hard is it to just manually push the canopy up without the assist from
the gas shocks? Can those of you with experience with tip-ups imagine using a
rod 2 or 3 feet long to just push straight up on the portion of the canopy
(suitably protected of course) above your head until the braces imagined above
would lock into place?
I considered replacing the gas strut with a hand-pumped hydraulic pistons,
but that would probably weigh 6 times as much and be a lot more complicated
than the gas struts. Maybe a pulley system with steel cable? Well, you get
the idea.
So, (Reaching for my asbestos overcoat) how crazy is this line of reasoning?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
Subject: | Re: tip up without gas shocks? |
>
>I ask this question from ignorance - I haven't opened an RV tip-up canopy and
I
>haven't gotten to building mine yet - but after listening to all this
>discussion I have to ask if there isn't a practical alternative to the gas
>shocks. The hood on my Toyota has no springs on it. I just lift it up and
>swing a steel rod into place to keep it up. (Granted, I'm standing infront ot
>the hood when I do that, not sitting underneath the center of it.) But would
>it be possible to replace the tip-up's gas struts with straight rods that just
>latch into place when the canopy is lifted up by some other means? I'm
>thinking real low tech here ,trying to imagine a system that exerts no force
>when the canopy is closed.
>
> How hard is it to just manually push the canopy up without the assist from
>the gas shocks? Can those of you with experience with tip-ups imagine using
a
>rod 2 or 3 feet long to just push straight up on the portion of the canopy
>(suitably protected of course) above your head until the braces imagined above
>would lock into place?
>
> I considered replacing the gas strut with a hand-pumped hydraulic pistons,
>but that would probably weigh 6 times as much and be a lot more complicated
>than the gas struts. Maybe a pulley system with steel cable? Well, you get
>the idea.
>
>So, (Reaching for my asbestos overcoat) how crazy is this line of reasoning?
>
This is not unreasonable at all. My tip-up had no gas struts. I
simply used the support in the plans.
That support is about 7" long and located in front of the instrument
panel. It easily supported the canopy.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
Council Member, Snohomish Indian Tribe
http://members.home.net/ammeterj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: tip up without gas shocks? |
tom sargent wrote:
>
>
> I ask this question from ignorance - I haven't opened an RV tip-up canopy and
I
> haven't gotten to building mine yet - but after listening to all this
> discussion I have to ask if there isn't a practical alternative to the gas
> shocks. The hood on my Toyota has no springs on it. I just lift it up and
> swing a steel rod into place to keep it up. (Granted, I'm standing infront
ot
> the hood when I do that, not sitting underneath the center of it.) But would
> it be possible to replace the tip-up's gas struts with straight rods that just
> latch into place when the canopy is lifted up by some other means? I'm
> thinking real low tech here ,trying to imagine a system that exerts no force
> when the canopy is closed.
>
> How hard is it to just manually push the canopy up without the assist from
> the gas shocks? Can those of you with experience with tip-ups imagine using
a
> rod 2 or 3 feet long to just push straight up on the portion of the canopy
> (suitably protected of course) above your head until the braces imagined above
> would lock into place?
>
> I considered replacing the gas strut with a hand-pumped hydraulic pistons,
> but that would probably weigh 6 times as much and be a lot more complicated
> than the gas struts. Maybe a pulley system with steel cable? Well, you get
> the idea.
>
> So, (Reaching for my asbestos overcoat) how crazy is this line of reasoning?
>
Ok here goes:) Originally the tip ups had a latch system that John
Ammeter described in an earlier post. That is the system that I used
for about the first 3 to 4 year on my RV-6. As John said it did its
job as designed and actually worked very well. The reason that I
changed to the gas struts is because I saw the canopy on my hanger
partners RV-6 get blasted by some wind one day. The latch rod
came unhooked and allowed the then unsupported canopy to fall forward
which did a fair amount of damage to the forward edge of the canopy.
The gas struts if installed properly work really great, you can start
the canopy up and just let go of the canopy and it well rise up by
itself. About the last two inches of travel the upward movement well
slow to just about nothing as it comes to a stop. The gas struts do add
a lot of stability to the canopy. I never did add the fiberglass
reinforcing that is called for and they have worked well for me
since installing them 7 years ago.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: tip up without gas shocks? |
tom sargent wrote:
> How hard is it to just manually push the canopy up without the assist from
> the gas shocks? Can those of you with experience with tip-ups imagine using
a
> rod 2 or 3 feet long to just push straight up on the portion of the canopy
> (suitably protected of course) above your head until the braces imagined above
> would lock into place?
Firstly, the gas shocks are included in the kit as standard now. I guess
you could delete them, but the fact that Van includes them implies that
they're the best solution.
Secondly, your push-up rod would need to fold up somehow to fit inside
the cockpit. And while it holds the canopy up, it needs to be out of the
way of the people getting in and out.
Frank.
Building canopy, RV-6 tip-up
Marton, NZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ted Gauthier <blunist(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Any Detroit area RV'ers out there? |
Welcome to Michigan,
There are at least a half dozen RV builders in Fowlerville, Mich. Several are
flying.. I have a good friend who has a nice hanger with plenty of room for an
RV located at the Ann Arbor airport. I will pass your e-mail address on to him
if you wish. E-mail me direct if you would like more info.
Ted Gauthier
Pontiac, Mi.
RV-6, Wings
Blunist(at)flash.net
russell parr wrote:
>
> I have just taken a job at Willow Run airport. I have an RV-4 and I'm
> looking for a place to tie down/hangar it. I want to be able to get to
> Willow Run within 20 minutes from where I keep my airplane because I'll be
> on
> call with this new job. If there are any Detroit area general aviation
> types out there who might want a hangar partner or know where good deals are
> to keep an airplane near Willow Run please let me know. Thanks, Russ Parr
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: tip up without gas shocks? |
Tom,
There's an RV6a tip-up in Kansas that tackles this question at a new angle.
It has no gas shocks, instead, there is a telescoping rod shaped like the
letter "Y" that attaches to the rear of canopy and extends between the
seats. The canopy handle is between the upper legs of the "Y". The lower
vertical part of the "Y" has a smaller diameter tube that telescopes up in
side it and attaches between the seats. There is a hole drilled in the
inner tube and the outter tube so a pin can be inserted when the canopy is
in the up position. To get in, just lift canopy up until holes align and
slide the pin in. Get in and hold the upper part of "Y" and pull pin and
ease it down. Just reverse process to get out. It's a very sturdy setup.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 11:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: tip up without gas shocks?
>
> I ask this question from ignorance - I haven't opened an RV tip-up canopy
and I
> haven't gotten to building mine yet - but after listening to all this
> discussion I have to ask if there isn't a practical alternative to the gas
> shocks. The hood on my Toyota has no springs on it. I just lift it up and
> swing a steel rod into place to keep it up. (Granted, I'm standing
infront ot
> the hood when I do that, not sitting underneath the center of it.) But
would
> it be possible to replace the tip-up's gas struts with straight rods that
just
> latch into place when the canopy is lifted up by some other means? I'm
> thinking real low tech here ,trying to imagine a system that exerts no
force
> when the canopy is closed.
>
> How hard is it to just manually push the canopy up without the assist
from
> the gas shocks? Can those of you with experience with tip-ups imagine
using a
> rod 2 or 3 feet long to just push straight up on the portion of the
canopy
> (suitably protected of course) above your head until the braces imagined
above
> would lock into place?
>
> I considered replacing the gas strut with a hand-pumped hydraulic
pistons,
> but that would probably weigh 6 times as much and be a lot more
complicated
> than the gas struts. Maybe a pulley system with steel cable? Well, you
get
> the idea.
>
> So, (Reaching for my asbestos overcoat) how crazy is this line of
reasoning?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Hi Chuck:
Charlie Kuss has volunteered to E-mail my pics to anyone interested on
receipt of my photos, as I don't have this capability yet. I will be mailing
him photos this coming week.
Regards
Eustace Bowhay
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Coolers
>
>Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>> Would be happy to help off the list to anyone interested, I also have
>> pictures of the installation.
>>
>
>Eustace,
>
>I'm building an RV9A and would be interested in some pics of the oil cooler
>installation if it wouldn't be too much trouble.
>--
>Regards,
>
>Chuck Weyant
>EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
>WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
>Santa Maria, CA
>805 347-8882
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate |
I'm trying to plan and purchase my firewall forward on my 8AQB. Since I
already have an IO360 200HP and I'm at Leeward Air Ranch Ocala, Fl. (HOT),
I've been paying particular attention to the latest thread on coolers,
cooler mtg location, and cowl exit area. Up to now I've gotten the following
information (misinformation?).
1. In equivalent sizes S&W cools better than Positech.
2. Direct cooler mounts either under or at rear of baffle cool better
than firewall, especially if scat hose is less than 5" Dia.
3. At some time Vans made a change to the RV8 /IO360 cowl to increase
the exhaust area.
I talked to Don Christenson in Tx. He was very helpful and basically
solved his RV8/IO360/Hot Climate oil cooling problem by increasing the cowl
exit area via louvers.
I talked to Ken Scott at Vans and he acknowledged there was a change in
exit area to the cowl but couldn't tell me WHEN or what the DIMENSIONS were.
He did acknowledge I might have cooling problems with the Positech #4215 in
my application.
The drop down cooling air exit on my lower cowl from my kit #80922
measures 2" deep by 12" wide on the inside.
Does anyone out there have an 8 cowl with a different dim.????????
Also I'm thinking that since the Vans Induction system uses air out of
the left cheek cowl; I better plan on using the right side for oil cooler
air.
Any new info or corrections on above info would be appreciated.
Also a good source for 9 row S&W or Niagra would be great to find.
Esten Spears, 8AQ, 80922, Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F-802 riveting questions |
Ken,
It's not clear to me what stage of completion your fuse is, but riveting
both of the upper gear tower braces early on is not a problem if you want
to. I did mine a bit later and don't remember having any problem with them
long after the side skins were on. Also, they are fairly easy to work
around.
You are clearly in the throes of typical RV builder frustration... believe
me I feel your pain and know exactly what you are going through. Allow me to
suggest a resource you are not using... simply pick up the phone and call me
or my friend Randy Griffin. We are both building RV-8s... I'm way ahead of
you and Randy is just barely ahead of you -- he just finished his cockpit
floors and his turtledeck skin is still not installed. Neither one of us
would mind phone calls asking questions, in fact we'd both enjoy it. This
list works ok, but is not nearly as effective as a one-on-one conversation
with someone who has just been through the same phase. Randy G. and I are
constantly comparing notes and helping each other think things through. In
fact before he gets ready to complete any section he calls me over just to
add any tips I can from already having gone through it. Usually this has
proven worthwhile, I've been able to make several useful suggestions and
observations. Not that I'm especially smart or skilled, just "been there and
done that".
Feel free to call me any time as follows...
800-886-6659 x14 office
360-901-2150 cell (on 24 hrs, national digital coverage)
360-817-9091 home
Randy Griffin:
360-212-2959 office
360-944-7400 home
Don't worry about bothering me, if I don't want to talk on the phone I just
don't answer it. Oh, and don't think this is a one way street, we might task
you with figuring out something for us as well.
Best regards,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: F-802 riveting questions
>
> No harm, per se, but it's a lot easier to get the rivet gun on the rivets
with the
> side skins off. Once the side skins are in place, it'll be difficult to
get a good
> shot at the rivets even with an offset rivet set in the gun. I've
certainly left my
> share of clecos in while awaiting enlightenment, but had hoped to avoid
that here
> for this reason. I called Van's, but was told that no technical
assistance will be
>
> Ken
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I know this is a half-assed answer but is there any harm leaving a
clecko or two
> > there in lieu of a rivet now ?. Every question I ever had regarding
plans was
> > eventaully made clear-------- sometime later. I allways made a note of
my
> > apparent confusion on the plans with a date......sometime later, often
on
> > another related part, the light finally goes on. Other times I look at
my note
> > and can't figure what the problem is......it all makes sence now......go
figure.
> > Actually, the clecko in place untill otherwise figured out-- is the lazy
mans
> > way out. It is actually more time consuming to rebuild/undrill or
otherwise
> > repair a part I was to eager with in the firstplace.......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F-802 riveting questions |
Aaack! I committed the worst sin... private mail to the list!
My apologies,
Randy Lervold
>
> >
> > No harm, per se, but it's a lot easier to get the rivet gun on the
rivets
> with the
> > side skins off. Once the side skins are in place, it'll be difficult to
> get a good
> > shot at the rivets even with an offset rivet set in the gun. I've
> certainly left my
> > share of clecos in while awaiting enlightenment, but had hoped to avoid
> that here
> > for this reason. I called Van's, but was told that no technical
> assistance will be
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I know this is a half-assed answer but is there any harm leaving a
> clecko or two
> > > there in lieu of a rivet now ?. Every question I ever had regarding
> plans was
> > > eventaully made clear-------- sometime later. I allways made a note of
> my
> > > apparent confusion on the plans with a date......sometime later, often
> on
> > > another related part, the light finally goes on. Other times I look at
> my note
> > > and can't figure what the problem is......it all makes sence
now......go
> figure.
> > > Actually, the clecko in place untill otherwise figured out-- is the
lazy
> mans
> > > way out. It is actually more time consuming to rebuild/undrill or
> otherwise
> > > repair a part I was to eager with in the firstplace.......
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Oil cooler hose hookup |
Howdy folks,
In my latest search to find a way to solve my rather toasty oil temp
problem, I'm wondering if I even have the cooler hooked up correctly in the
first place. My O-360A4M engine has two ports both right next to each other
and above the left magneto. This is obviously where the hoses were
connected in the Beech Sundowner the engine came out of. I connected the
cooler hoses here. Now I read in the archives that there is more than one
way to connect the cooler to the engine. There is a port that lies
somewhere in the middle of the accessory section, between and below the mags
that is the "better" choice for the hose carrying the oil TO the cooler. The
return is one of those ports on the upper left. Is this middle port the one
most of you are using? I believe this port is closer to the oil pump and
results in greater flow through the cooler. I'm thinking it might also be a
direct bypass around the vernatherm, thus negating the purpose of having one
in the first place. Geeze, the oil system in the Lycosaur is bizarre!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
down for paint and pondering a better cooler installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>I think you're on to something. Some of the white ty-wraps I've used in the
>past have lasted, and others not. And what is the difference between the
>white and black ones, other than color. Are they made of different stuff?
>Anybody?
The white guys are subject to ultra-violet degredation . . .
they also don't take kindly to hyro-carbon and ozone exposure
both of which are found in fair quantity under the cowl.
Ty-wraps treated for better resistance to environmental
stresses are always colored . . . most of the ones I've seen
are either dark green or black. However, it's possible to make
a ty-wrap from funky plastic of ANY color. When you buy them
new in original manufacturer's packaging, it will state on the
lable whether or not the critter is resistant to UV and/or
chemical attack.
My personal preference under the cowl is MS21919DGxx clamps
and/or Dacron flat-lace (string) . . . I've seen both of these
products work well for decades under the cowl.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankvdh(at)ihug.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: tip up without gas shocks? |
tom sargent wrote:
> How hard is it to just manually push the canopy up without the assist from
> the gas shocks? Can those of you with experience with tip-ups imagine using
a
> rod 2 or 3 feet long to just push straight up on the portion of the canopy
> (suitably protected of course) above your head until the braces imagined above
> would lock into place?
Firstly, the gas shocks are included in the kit as standard now. I guess
you could delete them, but the fact that Van includes them implies that
they're the best solution.
Secondly, your push-up rod would need to fold up somehow to fit inside
the cockpit. And while it holds the canopy up, it needs to be out of the
way of the people getting in and out.
Frank.
Building canopy, RV-6 tip-up
Marton, NZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ted Gauthier <blunist(at)flash.net> |
Subject: | Re: Any Detroit area RV'ers out there? |
Welcome to Michigan,
There are at least a half dozen RV builders in Fowlerville, Mich. Several are
flying.. I have a good friend who has a nice hanger with plenty of room for an
RV located at the Ann Arbor airport. I will pass your e-mail address on to him
if you wish. E-mail me direct if you would like more info.
Ted Gauthier
Pontiac, Mi.
RV-6, Wings
Blunist(at)flash.net
russell parr wrote:
>
> I have just taken a job at Willow Run airport. I have an RV-4 and I'm
> looking for a place to tie down/hangar it. I want to be able to get to
> Willow Run within 20 minutes from where I keep my airplane because I'll be
> on
> call with this new job. If there are any Detroit area general aviation
> types out there who might want a hangar partner or know where good deals are
> to keep an airplane near Willow Run please let me know. Thanks, Russ Parr
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: tip up without gas shocks? |
Tom,
There's an RV6a tip-up in Kansas that tackles this question at a new angle.
It has no gas shocks, instead, there is a telescoping rod shaped like the
letter "Y" that attaches to the rear of canopy and extends between the
seats. The canopy handle is between the upper legs of the "Y". The lower
vertical part of the "Y" has a smaller diameter tube that telescopes up in
side it and attaches between the seats. There is a hole drilled in the
inner tube and the outter tube so a pin can be inserted when the canopy is
in the up position. To get in, just lift canopy up until holes align and
slide the pin in. Get in and hold the upper part of "Y" and pull pin and
ease it down. Just reverse process to get out. It's a very sturdy setup.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 11:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: tip up without gas shocks?
>
> I ask this question from ignorance - I haven't opened an RV tip-up canopy
and I
> haven't gotten to building mine yet - but after listening to all this
> discussion I have to ask if there isn't a practical alternative to the gas
> shocks. The hood on my Toyota has no springs on it. I just lift it up and
> swing a steel rod into place to keep it up. (Granted, I'm standing
infront ot
> the hood when I do that, not sitting underneath the center of it.) But
would
> it be possible to replace the tip-up's gas struts with straight rods that
just
> latch into place when the canopy is lifted up by some other means? I'm
> thinking real low tech here ,trying to imagine a system that exerts no
force
> when the canopy is closed.
>
> How hard is it to just manually push the canopy up without the assist
from
> the gas shocks? Can those of you with experience with tip-ups imagine
using a
> rod 2 or 3 feet long to just push straight up on the portion of the
canopy
> (suitably protected of course) above your head until the braces imagined
above
> would lock into place?
>
> I considered replacing the gas strut with a hand-pumped hydraulic
pistons,
> but that would probably weigh 6 times as much and be a lot more
complicated
> than the gas struts. Maybe a pulley system with steel cable? Well, you
get
> the idea.
>
> So, (Reaching for my asbestos overcoat) how crazy is this line of
reasoning?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Hi Chuck:
Charlie Kuss has volunteered to E-mail my pics to anyone interested on
receipt of my photos, as I don't have this capability yet. I will be mailing
him photos this coming week.
Regards
Eustace Bowhay
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Coolers
>
>Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>> Would be happy to help off the list to anyone interested, I also have
>> pictures of the installation.
>>
>
>Eustace,
>
>I'm building an RV9A and would be interested in some pics of the oil cooler
>installation if it wouldn't be too much trouble.
>--
>Regards,
>
>Chuck Weyant
>EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
>WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
>Santa Maria, CA
>805 347-8882
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate |
I'm trying to plan and purchase my firewall forward on my 8AQB. Since I
already have an IO360 200HP and I'm at Leeward Air Ranch Ocala, Fl. (HOT),
I've been paying particular attention to the latest thread on coolers,
cooler mtg location, and cowl exit area. Up to now I've gotten the following
information (misinformation?).
1. In equivalent sizes S&W cools better than Positech.
2. Direct cooler mounts either under or at rear of baffle cool better
than firewall, especially if scat hose is less than 5" Dia.
3. At some time Vans made a change to the RV8 /IO360 cowl to increase
the exhaust area.
I talked to Don Christenson in Tx. He was very helpful and basically
solved his RV8/IO360/Hot Climate oil cooling problem by increasing the cowl
exit area via louvers.
I talked to Ken Scott at Vans and he acknowledged there was a change in
exit area to the cowl but couldn't tell me WHEN or what the DIMENSIONS were.
He did acknowledge I might have cooling problems with the Positech #4215 in
my application.
The drop down cooling air exit on my lower cowl from my kit #80922
measures 2" deep by 12" wide on the inside.
Does anyone out there have an 8 cowl with a different dim.????????
Also I'm thinking that since the Vans Induction system uses air out of
the left cheek cowl; I better plan on using the right side for oil cooler
air.
Any new info or corrections on above info would be appreciated.
Also a good source for 9 row S&W or Niagra would be great to find.
Esten Spears, 8AQ, 80922, Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F-802 riveting questions |
Ken,
It's not clear to me what stage of completion your fuse is, but riveting
both of the upper gear tower braces early on is not a problem if you want
to. I did mine a bit later and don't remember having any problem with them
long after the side skins were on. Also, they are fairly easy to work
around.
You are clearly in the throes of typical RV builder frustration... believe
me I feel your pain and know exactly what you are going through. Allow me to
suggest a resource you are not using... simply pick up the phone and call me
or my friend Randy Griffin. We are both building RV-8s... I'm way ahead of
you and Randy is just barely ahead of you -- he just finished his cockpit
floors and his turtledeck skin is still not installed. Neither one of us
would mind phone calls asking questions, in fact we'd both enjoy it. This
list works ok, but is not nearly as effective as a one-on-one conversation
with someone who has just been through the same phase. Randy G. and I are
constantly comparing notes and helping each other think things through. In
fact before he gets ready to complete any section he calls me over just to
add any tips I can from already having gone through it. Usually this has
proven worthwhile, I've been able to make several useful suggestions and
observations. Not that I'm especially smart or skilled, just "been there and
done that".
Feel free to call me any time as follows...
800-886-6659 x14 office
360-901-2150 cell (on 24 hrs, national digital coverage)
360-817-9091 home
Randy Griffin:
360-212-2959 office
360-944-7400 home
Don't worry about bothering me, if I don't want to talk on the phone I just
don't answer it. Oh, and don't think this is a one way street, we might task
you with figuring out something for us as well.
Best regards,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: F-802 riveting questions
>
> No harm, per se, but it's a lot easier to get the rivet gun on the rivets
with the
> side skins off. Once the side skins are in place, it'll be difficult to
get a good
> shot at the rivets even with an offset rivet set in the gun. I've
certainly left my
> share of clecos in while awaiting enlightenment, but had hoped to avoid
that here
> for this reason. I called Van's, but was told that no technical
assistance will be
>
> Ken
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I know this is a half-assed answer but is there any harm leaving a
clecko or two
> > there in lieu of a rivet now ?. Every question I ever had regarding
plans was
> > eventaully made clear-------- sometime later. I allways made a note of
my
> > apparent confusion on the plans with a date......sometime later, often
on
> > another related part, the light finally goes on. Other times I look at
my note
> > and can't figure what the problem is......it all makes sence now......go
figure.
> > Actually, the clecko in place untill otherwise figured out-- is the lazy
mans
> > way out. It is actually more time consuming to rebuild/undrill or
otherwise
> > repair a part I was to eager with in the firstplace.......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: F-802 riveting questions |
Aaack! I committed the worst sin... private mail to the list!
My apologies,
Randy Lervold
>
> >
> > No harm, per se, but it's a lot easier to get the rivet gun on the
rivets
> with the
> > side skins off. Once the side skins are in place, it'll be difficult to
> get a good
> > shot at the rivets even with an offset rivet set in the gun. I've
> certainly left my
> > share of clecos in while awaiting enlightenment, but had hoped to avoid
> that here
> > for this reason. I called Van's, but was told that no technical
> assistance will be
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I know this is a half-assed answer but is there any harm leaving a
> clecko or two
> > > there in lieu of a rivet now ?. Every question I ever had regarding
> plans was
> > > eventaully made clear-------- sometime later. I allways made a note of
> my
> > > apparent confusion on the plans with a date......sometime later, often
> on
> > > another related part, the light finally goes on. Other times I look at
> my note
> > > and can't figure what the problem is......it all makes sence
now......go
> figure.
> > > Actually, the clecko in place untill otherwise figured out-- is the
lazy
> mans
> > > way out. It is actually more time consuming to rebuild/undrill or
> otherwise
> > > repair a part I was to eager with in the firstplace.......
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Oil cooler hose hookup |
Howdy folks,
In my latest search to find a way to solve my rather toasty oil temp
problem, I'm wondering if I even have the cooler hooked up correctly in the
first place. My O-360A4M engine has two ports both right next to each other
and above the left magneto. This is obviously where the hoses were
connected in the Beech Sundowner the engine came out of. I connected the
cooler hoses here. Now I read in the archives that there is more than one
way to connect the cooler to the engine. There is a port that lies
somewhere in the middle of the accessory section, between and below the mags
that is the "better" choice for the hose carrying the oil TO the cooler. The
return is one of those ports on the upper left. Is this middle port the one
most of you are using? I believe this port is closer to the oil pump and
results in greater flow through the cooler. I'm thinking it might also be a
direct bypass around the vernatherm, thus negating the purpose of having one
in the first place. Geeze, the oil system in the Lycosaur is bizarre!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
down for paint and pondering a better cooler installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Subject: | RV8A First Flight |
All:
My 8A broke the ground for the first time this morning.
2 flights today - 1.5 hours.
Facts about the flights & conditions.
200HP IO-360 A1A
Hartzell CS
Main Wheel Pants on, nose off, no fairings
OAT 85 Degrees
flown at an altitude of 3500 ft over the airport
CHT 305
Oil Temp 185 - 190
Oil Pressure in the Green
Flies hands off, no trim rigging or squeezing required
Stalls as advertised
Very happy I don't have CHT & Oil Temp issues so far.
Hope to report on speeds etc. soon.
Mark Steffensen
8A flying Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8A First Flight |
>
>All:
>
>My 8A broke the ground for the first time this morning.
>
>2 flights today - 1.5 hours.
>
>Facts about the flights & conditions.
>200HP IO-360 A1A
>Hartzell CS
>Main Wheel Pants on, nose off, no fairings
>OAT 85 Degrees
>flown at an altitude of 3500 ft over the airport
>CHT 305
>Oil Temp 185 - 190
>Oil Pressure in the Green
>Flies hands off, no trim rigging or squeezing required
>Stalls as advertised
>
>Very happy I don't have CHT & Oil Temp issues so far.
>
>Hope to report on speeds etc. soon.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A flying Dallas, TX
Congratulations, Mark!! Still grinnin'? That's OK, you'll get used to it.
Oil temp OK? At full throttle? What's the cooler setup? Inquiring and
overheated minds want to know.
Welcome to the elite fraternity of homebuilders with FLYING airplanes. It's
a great club, but we seldom have meetings because we're out flying all the
time. *grin*
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8A First Flight |
Brian,
I have a S/W 8432 9 row cooler behind the left CYL mounted on the baffle.
The hoses are plumbed as in your note to the Acc Case by left mag. I used
the same set-up as the 8A Prototype. It gets much hotter here in North
Texas, I will advise with an update.....Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A First Flight
> Congratulations, Mark!! Still grinnin'? That's OK, you'll get used to
it.
> Oil temp OK? At full throttle? What's the cooler setup? Inquiring and
> overheated minds want to know.
>
> Welcome to the elite fraternity of homebuilders with FLYING airplanes.
It's
> a great club, but we seldom have meetings because we're out flying all the
> time. *grin*
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: tip up without gas shocks? |
Perhaps I missed something at the beginning of this conversation but I
can't imagine why someone would not want to use the gas struts.
They are cheap. (The first set is free.) They are light weight. They are easy
to
install or uninstall if you need to. They are out of the way when getting in or
out.
They are the simplest to operate as they operate themselves, and they do a good
job
in stabilizing the canopy from twisting.
While it is true that they are not strong enough to hold the canopy fully open
under
full power, I doubt I'd want to subject it to such abuse anyway.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
eCharts
http://www.eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Drooping left wing tip |
With everything else lined up (both flaps, both ailerons and the right wing tip)
the trailing edge of my left tip droops about 1/4". As a consequence I always have
to fly with a bit of left up aileron. Trim wise, this is compensated for by Van's
aileron trim in the full left position and the airplane will maintain itself hands
off, however it has always been an annoying feature of my 6A and I would also
suspect it is costing me at least a couple of knots.
I suppose my first question, before I tear my wing apart and attempt to rebuild
the
tip is whether of not this is a common problem. Does anybody else have a tip that
misaligns with the other, or with the rest of the trailing edge? If so, have you
done anything to correct it? Did you notice a speed increase when you did?
As far as fixing it, I'm wondering if I can "bend" it up a bit by building a
corrective jig and heating it with a heat gun, or if it will need to be cut up
and
reglassed.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6captain(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | N-Number (Phone # for FAA?) |
Can someone give me the phone # for the FAA so I can check on N-numbers? I
saw it up here before but I lost it. Also where do I get the paperwork for
getting my registration?
Thanks,
Eli Lewis
Venice, FL
RV-6 (Final Paint and assembly)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Tank Attatch Strip |
Listers,
When drilling the W423 tank attatch strip, I left the 1/2 inch shown on
the plans for the nutplates, now it looks like that isn't enough. I've
never been able to find a reference to minimum edge distance for bolts
or screws. Does anyone know what the minimum edge distance is for
AN509-8 screws with a nutplate? I recall reading somewhere that all you
need is for the head of the bolt (or screw) and the nut to be fully in
contact with the surface of the material (not hanging over the edge)
Does this sound right?
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: Oil cooler hose hookup |
Hi Brian:
The recommended cooler hook -up for your engine is, "oil from the cooler"
viewing from the back of the engine is the port just above the upper
attachment bolt of the left mag. "Oil to the cooler" is the port to the left
of the right mag. There are optional hook-up's but none really apply to our
RV installations.
All of this information is in the Lycoming Operator's Manual for the 0-360
model and 0-320 model engines. For the 0-360 A series it is Section 7-8,
figure 7-4. If you can give me a fax number I will be happy to fax it to
you.
Eustace
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Saturday, July 29, 2000 12:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler hose hookup
>
>
>Howdy folks,
>
>In my latest search to find a way to solve my rather toasty oil temp
>problem, I'm wondering if I even have the cooler hooked up correctly in the
>first place. My O-360A4M engine has two ports both right next to each
other
>and above the left magneto. This is obviously where the hoses were
>connected in the Beech Sundowner the engine came out of. I connected the
>cooler hoses here. Now I read in the archives that there is more than one
>way to connect the cooler to the engine. There is a port that lies
>somewhere in the middle of the accessory section, between and below the
mags
>that is the "better" choice for the hose carrying the oil TO the cooler.
The
>return is one of those ports on the upper left. Is this middle port the
one
>most of you are using? I believe this port is closer to the oil pump and
>results in greater flow through the cooler. I'm thinking it might also be a
>direct bypass around the vernatherm, thus negating the purpose of having
one
>in the first place. Geeze, the oil system in the Lycosaur is bizarre!
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>down for paint and pondering a better cooler installation.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
Subject: | Oil cooler hose hookup |
Where can I order a copy of the [I]0-360 manuals everyone refers to?
Troy Whistman
-----Original Message-----
All of this information is in the Lycoming Operator's Manual for the 0-360
model and 0-320 model engines. For the 0-360 A series it is Section 7-8,
figure 7-4. If you can give me a fax number I will be happy to fax it to
you.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Drooping left wing tip |
Hi Andy,
I had the same problem with the right rear of the tip dipping about 1/4"
below the aileron line. I took a dremel tool with a small metal (diamond
coated) circular blade and slit the end of the fiberglass tip across its
width. With the end separated into a top and bottom half (you may need to
slit it up the side a small distance) I could then force both halves upward
so that the top and bottom aligned with the aileron. I clamped it in that
position and drilled some holes (throught top and bottom near the very end)
for clecos to hold the two halves in the desired position. I then mixed
some Polyester expoxy and took the clecos out (temporarly) and apply the
expoxy to both halves where they were slit. I then pushed them back into the
desire alignment and stuck the cleco back in to hold it until the expoxy
was almost harden. I took the clecos out at that point.
This worked fine for me, took little time and looks lots better.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Re: I0-360 Manual |
Troy Whistman wrote:
> Where can I order a copy of the [I]0-360 manuals everyone refers to?
>
> Troy Whistman
In stock at Builder's Bookstore. Look in the Engine Maintenance section.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
970 887-2207
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | enlarged rivet hole??? |
i have 1/8 hole to large and went up to 5/32. i screwed it up and now it to
big. this is on a rib flange i am attaching to elevator spar. i did put an
extra 1/8 in the middle of the two originals. question, being i have 2 1/8
set fine, one on end and one in middle what is you guys opinion in going with
either a sheet metal screw, if so tell me type, dumb a... here, or a big pop
rivet. the hole is too big now for a 5/32. if a pop is suggested would it
have to be aircraft quality or something i could find at home depot?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil cooler hose hookup |
Builder's Bookstore, www.buildersbooks.com
> Where can I order a copy of the [I]0-360 manuals everyone refers to?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: enlarged rivet hole??? |
Just clean it up & call it a lightning hole. Since it's not on the exterior
skin, you don't even have to worry about the looks of this minor goof! Thru
the course of this project, you'll even end up cutting off flanges to extend
or shorten ribs.
Just add the extra rivet with edge & distance between rivets & it will be
okay.
Larry Adamson RV6A-- finish
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil cooler hose hookup |
Brian, The start up info from Aerosport includes a labeled diagram of the
rear of an O-360. The supply to the oil cooler from the engine is just
right of center of the engine and just below a centerline drawn horizontal
thru the mags. The return from the cooler to the engine is just above and
slightly right of the left mag top bolt. If you want a scanned copy of the
drawing, contact me off list.
Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com On the
gear, fuselage interior and wiring, engine arrived, avionics on the way.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler hose hookup
>
> Howdy folks,
>
> In my latest search to find a way to solve my rather toasty oil temp
> problem, I'm wondering if I even have the cooler hooked up correctly in
the
> first place. My O-360A4M engine has two ports both right next to each
other
> and above the left magneto. This is obviously where the hoses were
> connected in the Beech Sundowner the engine came out of. I connected the
> cooler hoses here. Now I read in the archives that there is more than one
> way to connect the cooler to the engine. There is a port that lies
> somewhere in the middle of the accessory section, between and below the
mags
> that is the "better" choice for the hose carrying the oil TO the cooler.
The
> return is one of those ports on the upper left. Is this middle port the
one
> most of you are using? I believe this port is closer to the oil pump and
> results in greater flow through the cooler. I'm thinking it might also be
a
> direct bypass around the vernatherm, thus negating the purpose of having
one
> in the first place. Geeze, the oil system in the Lycosaur is bizarre!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> down for paint and pondering a better cooler installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Drooping left wing tip |
Andy, I saw an RV at Osh in '99 with the same problem and another next to it
that was straight. I think it was a -6 or a -4, but the bottom line is, the
owner of the straight a/c ws there and said he had to slit the trailing edge
of the drooped tip to pull it into alignment. You might have to continue the
slit around the tip toward the front to get everything straight. Obviously
the rib would have to be removed also. This guy corrected the problem during
construction. Good luck. Andy Johnson.
With everything else lined up (both flaps, both ailerons and the right wing
tip)
the trailing edge of my left tip droops about 1/4". As a consequence I always
have
to fly with a bit of left up aileron. Trim wise, this is compensated for by
Van's
aileron trim in the full left position and the airplane will maintain itself
hands
off, however it has always been an annoying feature of my 6A and I would also
suspect it is costing me at least a couple of knots.
I suppose my first question, before I tear my wing apart and attempt to
rebuild the
tip is whether of not this is a common problem. Does anybody else have a tip
that
misaligns with the other, or with the rest of the trailing edge? If so, have
you
done anything to correct it? Did you notice a speed increase when you did?
As far as fixing it, I'm wondering if I can "bend" it up a bit by building a
corrective jig and heating it with a heat gun, or if it will need to be cut
up and
reglassed.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bdubsrv6a(at)AOL.COM |
Hey listers,
With reference to the RTV colors, red black, etc, how about the "clear RTV
silicone" by Permatex? Is that OK or is it a mistake to use that?
Bud West
Wings at the ready
The Quail Works
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tank Attatch Strip |
Jeff Point wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> When drilling the W423 tank attatch strip, I left the 1/2 inch shown on
> the plans for the nutplates, now it looks like that isn't enough. I've
> never been able to find a reference to minimum edge distance for bolts
> or screws. Does anyone know what the minimum edge distance is for
> AN509-8 screws with a nutplate? I recall reading somewhere that all you
> need is for the head of the bolt (or screw) and the nut to be fully in
> contact with the surface of the material (not hanging over the edge)
> Does this sound right?
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 wings
> Milwaukee, WI
>
Worked for me. I too don't know of a spec for bolt or screw, but do know
the oft quoted edge clearance spec is for rivets in aluminum sheets.
D Walsh
name="deniswalsh.vcf"
filename="deniswalsh.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Walsh;Denis
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net
fn:Denis Walsh
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Count me in if it's not too much trouble. I'd love to see them.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay [SMTP:ebowhay(at)jetstream.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Coolers
Hi Chuck:
Charlie Kuss has volunteered to E-mail my pics to anyone interested on
receipt of my photos, as I don't have this capability yet. I will be mailing
him photos this coming week.
Regards
Eustace Bowhay
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Date: Thursday, July 27, 2000 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Coolers
>
>Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
>> Would be happy to help off the list to anyone interested, I also have
>> pictures of the installation.
>>
>
>Eustace,
>
>I'm building an RV9A and would be interested in some pics of the oil cooler
>installation if it wouldn't be too much trouble.
>--
>Regards,
>
>Chuck Weyant
>EMail Me: chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
>WebSite: http://www.chuckdirect.com
>Santa Maria, CA
>805 347-8882
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Elrod3794(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV8a kit for sale |
I have an RV8A quickbuild kit for sale
Fuselage is about 90% complete
Wings 95% complete
Empennage is complete and mounted to fuselage
To many extras to list and all work is very high quality
please contact me off list if interested
205 7444994
205 7449415
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: enlarged rivet hole??? |
Bob:
It's a little hard to visualize which rib and which rivet location this is,
but I would not use a pop rivet that is not aircraft quality in a structural
application.
Depending on the location, you may not need a third rivet in that rib. Talk
to the folks at Van's.
One possible option would be to cut off the existing rib flange and rivet
another (made from the smae thickness and type of material) to the rib, on
the other side of the rib. This will give you nice untouched location on
the spar in which to drill new holes.
If all else fails you can buy a new rib and even a new elevator spar
relatively cheaply from Vans. Most of us have gone that route on some part
or another in the course of building an airplane.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 8:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: enlarged rivet hole???
>
> i have 1/8 hole to large and went up to 5/32. i screwed it up and now it
to
> big. this is on a rib flange i am attaching to elevator spar. i did put an
> extra 1/8 in the middle of the two originals. question, being i have 2 1/8
> set fine, one on end and one in middle what is you guys opinion in going
with
> either a sheet metal screw, if so tell me type, dumb a... here, or a big
pop
> rivet. the hole is too big now for a 5/32. if a pop is suggested would it
> have to be aircraft quality or something i could find at home depot?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tank Attatch Strip |
Jeff:
That's right. Think about it...the load is carried by the screw and the
nutplane to the rivets holding the nutplate to the attach strip. The hole
in the attach strip for the screw doesn't enter into it, structurally.
George Kilishek
N888GK (reserved)
Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 6:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tank Attatch Strip
>
> Listers,
>
> When drilling the W423 tank attatch strip, I left the 1/2 inch shown on
> the plans for the nutplates, now it looks like that isn't enough. I've
> never been able to find a reference to minimum edge distance for bolts
> or screws. Does anyone know what the minimum edge distance is for
> AN509-8 screws with a nutplate? I recall reading somewhere that all you
> need is for the head of the bolt (or screw) and the nut to be fully in
> contact with the surface of the material (not hanging over the edge)
> Does this sound right?
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 wings
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: enlarged rivet hole??? |
Bob
CherryMax blind rivets (the proper name for what you refer to as "pop" rivets.
Technically Pop is a brand name of blind rivet) are structural and could be used
here. Look in Aircraft Spruce or Wicks catalog for these rivets. You should also
be able to purchase them at a local aviation supply house. Home Depot rivets are
not acceptable here.
How loose is your 5/32" hole? I have often enlarged a hole while drilling out
poorly set rivets. If the hole has not gotten really large, you can "swell" a
rivet to make it fit properly in the enlarged hole. I do this as follows
Select an AN470AD5 rivet 1/2 size longer than the rivet originally chosen. You
may have to cut a rivet down for this. The extra .031" of length is needed as you
will shorten the rivet to increase it's diameter as needed.
Place this rivet in your hand squeezers and squeeze it slightly. Go slowly here.
As you squeeze it, it's diameter will "swell". Squeeze it a little and try it's
fit in the enlarged hole. Keep repeating this process till you have a rivet that
fits the enlarged hole snugly. I have found that you must set the squeezer's ram
so that you are doing the squeezing with the handles almost completely together.
My personal experience is that if I try to swell a rivet with the handles more
than "a little" apart, I'll bend that rivet. If after swelling the rivet a
little, I need the diameter larger yet, I'll reset the ram height again and
repeat the process.
Once you have the rivet so that it fits snugly in the hole, re-shoot the rivet.
Charlie Kuss
> i have 1/8 hole to large and went up to 5/32. i screwed it up and now it to
> big. this is on a rib flange i am attaching to elevator spar. i did put an
> extra 1/8 in the middle of the two originals. question, being i have 2 1/8
> set fine, one on end and one in middle what is you guys opinion in going with
> either a sheet metal screw, if so tell me type, dumb a... here, or a big pop
> rivet. the hole is too big now for a 5/32. if a pop is suggested would it
> have to be aircraft quality or something i could find at home depot?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: enlarged rivet hole??? |
In a message dated 7/29/00 6:23:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< i have 1/8 hole to large and went up to 5/32. i screwed it up and now it
to
big. this is on a rib flange i am attaching to elevator spar. i did put an
extra 1/8 in the middle of the two originals. question, being i have 2 1/8
set fine, one on end and one in middle what is you guys opinion in going
with
either a sheet metal screw, if so tell me type, dumb a... here, or a big pop
rivet. the hole is too big now for a 5/32. if a pop is suggested would it
have to be aircraft quality or something i could find at home depot?
>>
Bob, may i suggest you put a second flange on that rib, facing the
opposite direction, that outta hold it. Fred LaForge RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tank Attatch Strip |
>
> Listers,
>
> When drilling the W423 tank attatch strip, I left the 1/2 inch shown
> on
> the plans for the nutplates, now it looks like that isn't enough.
I offer the following from Frank Van der Hulst's web page:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rvlinks.html
"When riveting the LE skin to the W-623 flange strip, ensure that you
leave plenty of W-623 sticking out for the
tank to screw onto. Check the distance from the edge of the tank skin
to the screw holes along the outboard edge.
This edge will butt against the LE skin, and there should be enough
W-623 sticking out for the screws and rivets to
go into it without violating edge distance requirements. I think that
the W-623 is ONLY JUST wide enough -- if you
have any protruding outboard from the edge of the rib 8A flange, you
won't have enough inboard.
Even though the manual specifies the attach strip have 1/2 inch showing
outside the leading edge skin to
accommodate the fuel tank nutplates, note that in drawing 18a the
distance between the edge of the tank skin and
the pre-drilled holes is 3/8th of an inch. This obviously will not
leave proper edge distance for the nutplates. Rivet
the tank attach strip with 3/4 inch showing. After assembling the tank
but before drilling the skins, trim the attach
strip as needed based on the distance from the edge of your tank skin
and your outboard tank rib. Trim the attach
strip as necessary to allow the leading edge skins to meet."
Coincidentally enough, I ran into the same problem on my -six and sent
the above to Frank, who added the warning to his pages - in the wing
skinning section.
I fixed it by adding a 1-inch-wide strip to the back of the attach
strip, allowing it to extend beyond the existing strip by another
1/4-inch. I dimpled holes in the existing attach strip to rivet it to
the added piece (spaced between the holes I already drilled and found
to have insufficient edge clearance) then flush riveted the add-on to
the existing strip.
Then back drilling through the existing strip I could rivet the
nutplates and have plenty of edge clearance for the rivets and screw
hole.
My technical counselor approved before I closed the wings.
Hope this helps.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: enlarged rivet hole??? |
dumb question...why go to all that trouble, when you can get an "oversize" rivet
allready made for that purpose...by sqeezing the longer rivet, you work harden
it,
thus making it less strong....if you havn't looked at AC 43-13, it should be
informative....jolly in aurora, or.
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Bob
> CherryMax blind rivets (the proper name for what you refer to as "pop" rivets.
> Technically Pop is a brand name of blind rivet) are structural and could be used
> here. Look in Aircraft Spruce or Wicks catalog for these rivets. You should also
> be able to purchase them at a local aviation supply house. Home Depot rivets
are
> not acceptable here.
> How loose is your 5/32" hole? I have often enlarged a hole while drilling out
> poorly set rivets. If the hole has not gotten really large, you can "swell" a
> rivet to make it fit properly in the enlarged hole. I do this as follows
> Select an AN470AD5 rivet 1/2 size longer than the rivet originally chosen. You
> may have to cut a rivet down for this. The extra .031" of length is needed as
you
> will shorten the rivet to increase it's diameter as needed.
> Place this rivet in your hand squeezers and squeeze it slightly. Go slowly here.
> As you squeeze it, it's diameter will "swell". Squeeze it a little and try it's
> fit in the enlarged hole. Keep repeating this process till you have a rivet that
> fits the enlarged hole snugly. I have found that you must set the squeezer's
ram
> so that you are doing the squeezing with the handles almost completely together.
> My personal experience is that if I try to swell a rivet with the handles more
> than "a little" apart, I'll bend that rivet. If after swelling the rivet a
> little, I need the diameter larger yet, I'll reset the ram height again and
> repeat the process.
> Once you have the rivet so that it fits snugly in the hole, re-shoot the rivet.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> > i have 1/8 hole to large and went up to 5/32. i screwed it up and now it to
> > big. this is on a rib flange i am attaching to elevator spar. i did put an
> > extra 1/8 in the middle of the two originals. question, being i have 2 1/8
> > set fine, one on end and one in middle what is you guys opinion in going with
> > either a sheet metal screw, if so tell me type, dumb a... here, or a big pop
> > rivet. the hole is too big now for a 5/32. if a pop is suggested would it
> > have to be aircraft quality or something i could find at home depot?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: enlarged rivet hole??? |
In a message dated 7/29/00 8:37:13 PM Central Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< i did put an
extra 1/8 in the middle of the two originals. >>
I would just leave the hole empty and move on.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (fuel tanks)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | AMR has been sold! |
Hello listers
AAMR has been sold and will reopen shortly as Terminal Town.
The new URL will be http://terminaltown.com
If you care to be notified of opening please send your E mail address to
terminaltown(at)aol.com
Best regards.
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | AAMRELECTR(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | AMR has been sold! |
Hello listers
AAMR has been sold and will reopen shortly as Terminal Town.
The new URL will be http://terminaltown.com
If you care to be notified of opening please send your E mail address to
terminaltown(at)aol.com
Best regards.
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: enlarged rivet hole??? |
Jolly,
There are 2 reasons. In Bob's situation, he will not have edge distance for a
3/16"
diameter rivet. He has already gone "oversize" and messed it up. Your rib flanges
are
only 5/8" wide. Assuming you drilled the rivet holes in the middle of the flange,
you
can only go up to 5/32" rivets & maintain the 2 D requirement.
The second reason is that this gives you a way to attempt a repair BEFORE you
have to
resort to a cheater (NAS 1097) or standard oversize rivet. If you use my method
and
bungle it, you can still go the oversize route. In essence, it gives you 3 chances
to
save the hole. (#1 swell original 1/8" rivet, #2 drill out for 5/32" rivet, #3
swell
5/32" rivet)
As for "making it less strong" the 5/32" rivet is gross overkill in this application.
The slight reduction in strength won't matter.
old ogre wrote:
>
> dumb question...why go to all that trouble, when you can get an "oversize" rivet
> allready made for that purpose...by sqeezing the longer rivet, you work harden
it,
> thus making it less strong....if you havn't looked at AC 43-13, it should be
> informative....jolly in aurora, or.
>
> Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> >
> > Bob
> > CherryMax blind rivets (the proper name for what you refer to as "pop" rivets.
> > Technically Pop is a brand name of blind rivet) are structural and could be
used
> > here. Look in Aircraft Spruce or Wicks catalog for these rivets. You should
also
> > be able to purchase them at a local aviation supply house. Home Depot rivets
are
> > not acceptable here.
> > How loose is your 5/32" hole? I have often enlarged a hole while drilling
out
> > poorly set rivets. If the hole has not gotten really large, you can "swell"
a
> > rivet to make it fit properly in the enlarged hole. I do this as follows
> > Select an AN470AD5 rivet 1/2 size longer than the rivet originally chosen.
You
> > may have to cut a rivet down for this. The extra .031" of length is needed
as you
> > will shorten the rivet to increase it's diameter as needed.
> > Place this rivet in your hand squeezers and squeeze it slightly. Go slowly
here.
> > As you squeeze it, it's diameter will "swell". Squeeze it a little and try
it's
> > fit in the enlarged hole. Keep repeating this process till you have a rivet
that
> > fits the enlarged hole snugly. I have found that you must set the squeezer's
ram
> > so that you are doing the squeezing with the handles almost completely together.
> > My personal experience is that if I try to swell a rivet with the handles
more
> > than "a little" apart, I'll bend that rivet. If after swelling the rivet a
> > little, I need the diameter larger yet, I'll reset the ram height again and
> > repeat the process.
> > Once you have the rivet so that it fits snugly in the hole, re-shoot the rivet.
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> > > i have 1/8 hole to large and went up to 5/32. i screwed it up and now it
to
> > > big. snipped
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | RV-4 Pitot tube question |
A couple quick questions on installing the pitot tube:
1) It appears that the pitot tube routes between the wing spar and the fuel
tank on the inboard part of the wing before going through the nose ribs then
back through the spar to the main wing ribs. What do you do to secure the
line in the area between the tank and spar??
2) How much excess tube to you leave on the wing root side?? I could not see
on the plans anywhere how much to leave or how it finally hooks up in the
instrument panel. Should I leave enough to make it to the IP, or just a few
inches past the wing spar root to hook up to another fitting??
I also don't like how close the plans call for the pitot tube to the wing tie
down.......
Thanks for any help
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Re: N-Number (Phone # for FAA?) |
The Aircraft Registration Branch is (405)954-4206
>
>Can someone give me the phone # for the FAA so I can check on N-numbers? I
>saw it up here before but I lost it. Also where do I get the paperwork for
>getting my registration?
>Thanks,
>Eli Lewis
>Venice, FL
>RV-6 (Final Paint and assembly)
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Kolb-List: Use of archive search" (Jul 30, 4:26am)
Subject: | Re: Use of archive search (Clairfication) |
>--------------
>--> Kolb-List message posted by: John Jung
>
>Group,
>
>It occurs to me that many on the list may not be aware how easy it is to
>search the archives.
>
>Here is a short "how to":
>
>1) Click on the Search engine line a the bottom of each message.
>= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
>
>2) Change the default "RV List" to "Kolb"
>
>3) Type in what you want to search on and click the "Begin Search"
>button.
>
>4) A list of messages will appear. Each time you click on one, a new
>window will open so that you can read it. Close the window to be able to
>select the next message.
>
>That's all there is to it!
>
>John Jung
>--------------
Actually, if you just resize and position the viewing window so that you
can see both it and the window with the list of subjects, you don't have
to close it. Each time you click on a subject line, it will bring up
the message in that same viewing window. You can also click on the
"Next" or "Previous" button from the viewing window to select the next
or previous search match.
Also note that you can use the logical AND and OR in your search by
using the '&' and '|' symbols respectivly in your search string. Here
are some examples:
rotax engine & prop
rotax engine | lycoming engine | auto conversion
You can put as many AND or ORs in the search string as you like. For
now, you can't mix AND and ORs in a search string, however.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
Subject: | Upholstery/Seats for RV Builders |
RV Builders:
I have moved to Las Vegas. Please note my new telephone number and e-mail
address.
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Wire labels . . . |
Hi Bob! May I ask you how you print your wire labels from the computer?
What labels stuff do you print onto? Thanks . . .
I print onto full sheets of Avery label material . . . 8.5 x 11" sheets
in columns. Then stick the full sheet to one of those white plastic
cutting boards. Use an x-acto knife to cut out individual labels
to stick on wire and then cover with heat shrink.
see: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/wiring/s817c.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Pitot tube question |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 11:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Pitot tube question
~snip
> 1) It appears that the pitot tube routes between the wing spar and the
fuel
> tank on the inboard part of the wing before going through the nose ribs
then
> back through the spar to the main wing ribs. What do you do to secure the
> line in the area between the tank and spar??
~snip
Mike,
I made hold down clamps out of scrap material (.040 will work). Make
some 1/2 x 1 1/2 strips and form the hold down loop on one end by using a
male and female die as follows:
Male die - 1/4 drill rod or drill bit. This is the same size as the OD of
the line you are about to secure.
Female die - a piece of hardwood with a channel (dadoo). The depth is not
real important except it can't be too shallow. 1/4" will work. The width
should be 1/4" + 2x material thickness. In this case 2x material = .040 * 2
= .080 or approx 5/64.
Practice: With the aid of a press, lay a strip on the female die covering
the dadoo, and extending a little (3/8") past. Position the male die over
the dadoo and press. The length of the overhang controls how much of a loop
at the end. With a little practice, the pieces look very professional. I
found that by leaving the protective covering on the stock helps.
Good luck.
Tom Barnes
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | JC Whitney Strip Lights |
Product Report,
I bought three of the 24" strip lights from JC Whitney part number TC-24-W
for a total of $13.47 USD. I chose the white ones. These are made in the USA
by Vista Manufacturing. They call them Tac-Lite Strip Lighting.
I had planned to put them along the edge of my glairsheild behind a yet to
be determined edge material, probably stiffener angle material. I should
mention that I'm planning to extend the glairsheild further back from the
panel than Vans. I would like this to be the primary panel lighting with
back up being two map lights on the tip up canopy frame.
These strips have six small bulbs wired together and encased in a flexible
plastic strip. The cross section of this strip is shaped in a "P" making for
a nice flange to glue it on.
I powered one of them up on the bench and darkened my shop. I was very
disappointed. They don't even get close to making enough light.
Just to experiment further, I broke out a soldering pencil and stripped the
bulbs off all three of the strip lights. I twisted their wires together in
pairs to make a long chain of 18 bulbs quite close together. I then got a
couple of 18 gauge wires and began attaching each end of all the bulbs. I
used a wire stripper to cut the insulation and then a knife to peel it away
for about 1/4 of an inch for each pair of bulbs to get continuously soldered
onto the feed wires. This way the bulbs only carry their own current.
I stuffed the new string into the white plastic housing and fired it up. It
works good but now it is only 22" long. I will order a whole bunch more and
continue my strip. I have yet to measure it for current draw. I don't have
to commit to this idea for quite some time. I can test further when the
whole panel is together. I like the white plastic encasement strip. The
light is soft yet bright enough once enough bulbs are soldered together. I
am hoping for a very even airline look. I have several times already been
discouraged by the large cost of high end alternatives. I am having fun
making my own for low dough as I gear myself up to begin the Rocky Mountain
Engine Monitor kit I have now got sitting on my bench. BTY, the current cost
of this with all of the options to run it that RMI has for sale came to
$1572 + $25 shipping USD or $2708.56 Canadian landed.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Lister's
Additional numbers from today's flights.
OAT 90 degrees
Oil cooler is mounted behind # 4 Cyl a S/W 8432 9 row.
Oil Temp 185 -190 at altitude
Oil Temp 200 - 210 on Climb out & during T & G's
Indicated Air Speed 3000 ft 25 inch MP & 2500 RPM - 150 Kts
No Nose Wheel Pant & No Fairings
Take off's are Incredible
Landings are very easy
I flew a 6 for a few hours with a CFI. The 8A is much easier to handle on
the ground & landings.
I am having problems with ambient noise keying the intercom on the SL30 & am
playing with the settings, but other than that all is going great.
This is really a great aircraft.
Keep building.....Mark
Mark Steffensen
8A Dallas, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: 8A Flight Data |
I have heard from two sources now about problems with the SL series Apollo
radio like this one. The 'built in intercom' is rumored to be a real pain,
as well as the feature allowing you to monitor a second freq. Anyone else
out there with similar experiences? I may have to rethink my radio
choices....grrrrrr
Bill
> I am having problems with ambient noise keying the intercom on the SL30 &
am
> playing with the settings, but other than that all is going great.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Oil cooler hookup update |
OK folks,
The concensus is that I have the "oil to cooler" hose in the wrong place on
the back of my engine. It is not totally wrong, just not where the
operator's manual says it should be. I just looked at Sam B's most cool
webpage update on his engine overhaul and it is very clear where the supply
hose to the cooler must go: on the port located between the mags right where
the oil pump is pushing the goo out with great vigor.
I have the supply hose hooked up on the port originally used in the
Beechcraft the engine came from. It appears that this port *may* be
downstream from the filter so it probably is not getting the same flow as
the port down by the pump. The post from our departed friend Bill Benedict
that I found in the archives indicates that by using the middle port one can
expect a temperature drop improvement of 10 to 20 degrees. This is according
to a Lycoming representative that visited Van's some time ago to inspect
their stock of engines. My engine arrived with a plug in the middle port
and appears to have never been used. Strange. What I SHOULD have also
purchased with the engine was an operator's manual! I could not find this
information in any of my various homebuilder books so I just went with what
looked right. Those side by side ports with oily wads of paper towel
stuffed in them sure looked like the right place to put the hoses! Only ONE
truly is, so it would appear.
If this holds true, then I'll stick with the Positech cooler on the firewall
and be a happy RV8 camper. I won't know for another month since my plane is
out of service for paint. Ten or twenty degees will get me into the 200-210
degree range which I will be quite content with on hot days. If it still
won't behave, then out comes the Positech and a Niagara goes in it's place.
Time will tell.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
I was wondering what thoughts you guys might have on a carburated O360
compared to an O360 equiped with an aftermarket fuel injection like Airflow
Performance. I don't plan to do negative G or inverted stuff. I do plan
on a lot of cross country with the occasional roll or loop just for kicks.
I understand that carbs are subject to carb icing and the small ports in
the fuel injection can be a source of plugging but what are the other
decision factors? Is there any reason to shell out the extra $2100 for the
Airflow Performance?
Vince Welch
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil cooler hookup update |
> The concensus is that I have the "oil to cooler" hose in the wrong place
on
> the back of my engine. It is not totally wrong, just not where the
> operator's manual says it should be. I just looked at Sam B's most cool
> webpage update on his engine overhaul and it is very clear where the
supply
> hose to the cooler must go: on the port located between the mags right
where
> the oil pump is pushing the goo out with great vigor.
>
> I have the supply hose hooked up on the port originally used in the
> Beechcraft the engine came from. It appears that this port *may* be
> downstream from the filter so it probably is not getting the same flow as
> the port down by the pump. The post from our departed friend Bill
Benedict
> that I found in the archives indicates that by using the middle port one
can
> expect a temperature drop improvement of 10 to 20 degrees. This is
according
> to a Lycoming representative that visited Van's some time ago to inspect
> their stock of engines. My engine arrived with a plug in the middle port
> and appears to have never been used. Strange. What I SHOULD have also
> purchased with the engine was an operator's manual! I could not find this
> information in any of my various homebuilder books so I just went with
what
> looked right. Those side by side ports with oily wads of paper towel
> stuffed in them sure looked like the right place to put the hoses! Only
ONE
> truly is, so it would appear.
>
> If this holds true, then I'll stick with the Positech cooler on the
firewall
> and be a happy RV8 camper. I won't know for another month since my plane
is
> out of service for paint. Ten or twenty degees will get me into the
200-210
> degree range which I will be quite content with on hot days. If it still
> won't behave, then out comes the Positech and a Niagara goes in it's
place.
> Time will tell.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
Brian,
Be sure and keep us all posted, this will be good info for the archives.
Keep the oil cool, and cooler installations, are a hot topic so I'm sure
everyone would be interested.
Hope the paint looks good!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 Pitot tube question |
In a message dated 7/30/00 11:26:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
Monsterpin(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< 1) It appears that the pitot tube routes between the wing spar and the
fuel
tank on the inboard part of the wing before going through the nose ribs then
back through the spar to the main wing ribs. What do you do to secure the
line in the area between the tank and spar??
Use some scrap aluminum and make some straps. I made mine about 1/2"
wide and 2" long and bent them around a 1/4" drill bit, then clamped it tight
(around the bit) in a vise. Drill through and pop rivet them to the
spar in two locations. Wrap some electricians tape around the tube where
it will be clamped in the straps you made. See my web site under "tank
construction" for pictures
2) How much excess tube to you leave on the wing root side?? I could not
see
on the plans anywhere how much to leave or how it finally hooks up in the
instrument panel. Should I leave enough to make it to the IP, or just a few
inches past the wing spar root to hook up to another fitting??
Just run it out to where its even with the root end of the spar. Put
some tape over the end to keep out critters and such during the storage
time.
I also don't like how close the plans call for the pitot tube to the wing
tie
down....... >>
Mine is 2 1/4" inboard of the wing tie down hole.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (fuel tanks)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Sun, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004588695@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Sun,
30 Jul 2000 17:11:12.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | RV-4 Pitot tube question |
Hi Mike,
You asked:
> 1) What do you do to secure the line in the area between the tank and spar??
As I recall, I used a couple of small strips of .025 aluminum, looped around the
pitot tube
with a blind rivet into the spar web. You could also use an Adel clamp or two.
>
> 2) How much excess tube to you leave on the wing root side??
Leave about 12 inches past the inboard rib --- that will be more than enough.
You will
eventually attach it to the fuselage with a fitting. Inside the fuselage you will
run more tubing
from the fitting to the Airspeed Indicator.
>
> I also don't like how close the plans call for the pitot tube to the wing tie
> down.......
I concur. As I recall I moved my pitot outboard maybe 6 inches to protect it from
getting
bent up when I tie down the wing.
Send me an e-mailif you need me to clarify my comments above.
Best of luck,
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, engine testing, ready to do weight & balance
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8A First Flight |
MARK,
CONGRATULATION & WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Finishing - I hope)
Niantic, CT
>From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV8A First Flight
>Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:01:51 -0500
>
>
>All:
>
>My 8A broke the ground for the first time this morning.
>
>2 flights today - 1.5 hours.
>
>Facts about the flights & conditions.
>200HP IO-360 A1A
>Hartzell CS
>Main Wheel Pants on, nose off, no fairings
>OAT 85 Degrees
>flown at an altitude of 3500 ft over the airport
>CHT 305
>Oil Temp 185 - 190
>Oil Pressure in the Green
>Flies hands off, no trim rigging or squeezing required
>Stalls as advertised
>
>Very happy I don't have CHT & Oil Temp issues so far.
>
>Hope to report on speeds etc. soon.
>
>Mark Steffensen
>8A flying Dallas, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Subject: | Dupont ChromaBase |
I used Chroma One on my Comanche. It was painted in 1993 and I left it out
in the sun for six years before bringing it into a hangar. I did get some
slight chalking of the blue (Top cowl and sides) I used but it buffed out
with a good wax job. It still looks as good today as the day I painted it. I
found that it doesn't chip as easy as some Imron paint jobs I've seen.
I selected it based on a discussion with my local auto paint supply shop.
These guys really knew their paint and could have sold my anything I asked
for. Once we discussed what I wanted to do and that I was doing it in my
hangar and the equipment I was planning to use, they steered my to Chroma
One. It's not a base coat/clear coat system. I've got no regrets. It was
simple to use and sprayed on really well. I used an HVLP gun to apply. I
even used it inside the cowl (bright white) with no problems. I used the
whole Chroma one system. The primer is a chromate primer and the Chroma one
is a catalyzed urethane paint. I cleaned and alodyned the whole plane before
applying the primer. It was expensive then, I can imagine what it costs
today. I bought three gallons. Two white and one blue. I still have one full
gallon of white and can't bring it back so don't buy more than you really
need.
Regards,
Bob
RV8 #423 building on hold while in Australia
> ----------
> From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 01:50 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dupont ChromaBase
>
>
> In a message dated 7/27/00 7:20:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes:
>
> << I just tried some light gray Dupont ChromaBase Single Stage paint on
> the interior of my RV6-A and it looks great!!
> The paint dried to dust in 10-15 min. and has good shine requiring
> NO
> BUFFING. I have always used PPG Base Coat-Clear coat on my cars but this
> went on so easy and has to be lighter that I am thinking of using it on
> the
> outside as well.
> Have any of you builders used this product for the outside finish?
> >>
>
> ChromaBase or Chroma One? My plane was painted by Randy Ford of T&P
> Aerofinishers using scotchbrite burnish, alumiprep, alodine, Sterling
> Epoxy
> Primer and DuPont Chroma One. Trim colors are ChromaBase with Clearcoat.
> It
> was my understanding that ChromaBase alone is not a catalyzed finish (the
> catalyst is in the Clearcoat) and may therefore remain solvent (fuel)
> sensitive.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV)
> vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wayne and Cindy <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
Subject: | FAA Database phone no. |
Eli:
The phone number is 405-954-3116.
Very helpful and friendly, but often a busy signal.
Good luck!
Wayne Williams
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Fiberglass Windshield Surround |
Listers,
A few observations after spending several days laying up and shaping the
fiberglass fairing around the windshield of a slider RV-6. (And it still
isn't quite done...)
1) The method Scott McDaniels posted a couple of years ago works well.
Search the archives for McDaniels & fiberglass & windshield, and you'll come
across it.
2) I added several layers of carbon fiber to my fairing across the rollbar.
It adds strength, and I highly recommend it. What I don't recommend is
making carbon fiber your first layer against the plexiglass. The fibers are
so stiff, they just don't seem to wet out as well as conventional fiberglass
cloth, so you just don't get as good of a bond to the plexiglass as you would
with fiberglass. I'd recommend at least one layer of fiberglass, then the
carbon fiber.
3) This operation takes a lot of material for an RV-6. Sure, I'm a bit
liberal with resin, and I waste a bit too, but I'd say this layup took most
of a quart kit of West System Epoxy. It takes a lot of little cloth strips
too. (By the way, Wal-Mart carries the little Pizza cutter style cloth
cutters you need to cut straight fiberglass strips. You can find them in the
fabric section.)
4) I still have not figured out how to keep fiberglass cut on the bias from
"necking down" when I make a layup. The stuff is like double knit.. It just
stretches and stretches. The downside is that the pieces I cut 2" wide ended
up as 1.25", etc.... Any solutions?
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com> |
Mark Steffensen said:
>
> I am having problems with ambient noise keying the intercom on the SL30 & am
> playing with the settings
>
>
I'm about to dive into a 6A project, and was wondering what (if anything) the
builders do to reduce cabin noise levels? Dynafocal e/m's and well fitted
canopies are a start, but is anybody applying anti-resonance materials to the
firewall or cabin interior surfaces?
I've been doing some work quieting down equipment for use on sound stages
and the difference these "mineral impregnated urethane" self sticking films
make is dramatic. I suppose that treating enough of the sheet metal would
probably weigh more than two pair of headphones, but still I'm curious...
--Sam
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Cinelogic, Co.
(818)772-4777
fax 772-4733
sam(at)videoassist.com
http://www.videoassist.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | New Windows Utility For SkyMap II/IIIC... |
Listers,
For those of you that have had the pleasure of flying with one of the
new Skyforce/King Skymap II or IIICs, I've been working on a Windows
application that you might be interested in. Its call SkyComm and
allows you to connect up your Windows 95/98/NT/2000 PC or laptop to
the RS232 serial port on the Skymap and manage a number of its internal
datasets. Some of SkyComm's features include Screen Shot Capture,
Upload/Download of up to 4000 characters to the Skymap's internal
Notepad for something like an online checklists etc., Upload/Download of
Waypoint and Route data, and Download of the Skymap's Logger database.
There's even a built in wiring diagram for the requisite RS232 cable! I
have just finished Version 1.0 and am considering this Beta 1. I have
setup a rather extensive web site for information on the application and
for its download.
If you have a SkyMap, you're going to want this program! Best of all,
its FREE! Well, I do ask that those that like it make a voluntary
List contribution... :-)
The URL for the site is listed below and can also now be found off the
main Matronics web site as well as the specific List web pages.
Please download the program and let me know what you think! Comments
should be directed to support(at)matronics.com
SkyComm Web Site
----------------
http://www.matronics.com/skycomm/
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting |
I can't set the rivets on the outboard half of my trim tab spar (and the
corresponding rear elevator spar). My 2-1/2" Avery yoke is too thick, and I
can't figure out how to get a bucking bar with enough mass in there to use
the gun. I'm a little leery of using the gun anyhow, because of the thin
skin. I don't think a thin yoke would work, because it would have to reach
over the piano hinge.
I'm looking for ideas. Is there a pop rivet that will do the job? (The
proper rivet is the AN 426 AD3-4.) Thanks in advance for your help.
Jim Bower
RV-6A (Emp)
St. Louis, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting |
I did this not to long ago. I used the squeezer for most of it, and bucked
the rest. They are -3 rivets so buck with relative ease. In the course of
this project I've used all kinds of things as 'bucking bars'. In that space
though I think I really did get a bucking bar from Avery in there.....turned
on it's edge. If not, I've used the back riveting plate, a hammer face, a
chisel...... :-) hehehe, like they taught me in boot
camp......IMPROVISE AND OVERCOME.
Semper Fi baby
Bill
-4
Feeling gung ho in Orlando.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 7:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting
>
> I can't set the rivets on the outboard half of my trim tab spar (and the
> corresponding rear elevator spar). My 2-1/2" Avery yoke is too thick, and
I
> can't figure out how to get a bucking bar with enough mass in there to use
> the gun. I'm a little leery of using the gun anyhow, because of the thin
> skin. I don't think a thin yoke would work, because it would have to
reach
> over the piano hinge.
>
> I'm looking for ideas. Is there a pop rivet that will do the job? (The
> proper rivet is the AN 426 AD3-4.) Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Jim Bower
> RV-6A (Emp)
> St. Louis, MO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> I've been doing some work quieting down equipment for use on sound
> stages
> and the difference these "mineral impregnated urethane" self sticking
> films
> make is dramatic. I suppose that treating enough of the sheet metal
> would
> probably weigh more than two pair of headphones, but still I'm
> curious...
How about a source for this wonder material? MIU, shall we call it?
:)
and how flame resistant is it?
Depending on its weight, your last observation is right on - insulate
the firewall against engine heat, and maybe the cabin floor against
exhaust heat, but trying to insulate the cabin against noise is going
to cost a lot of weight.
Better to go (IMHO) with ANR headsets.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting |
> I can't set the rivets on the outboard half of my trim tab spar (and
> the corresponding rear elevator spar).
Welcome to the club!
:)
I've seen maybe two RV's that had solid rivets at that point - and both
guys couldn't remember how they did it.
Use the LPS-4 pop rivets that came in the kit. They're structural and
will clean up fine at finish time.
But if you _do_ figure out a good method, clue us in!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Windshield Surround |
-----Original Message-----
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Sunday, July 30, 2000 10:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass Windshield Surround
>
>4) I still have not figured out how to keep fiberglass cut on the bias
from
>"necking down" when I make a layup. The stuff is like double knit.. It
just
>stretches and stretches. The downside is that the pieces I cut 2" wide
ended
>up as 1.25", etc.... Any solutions?
>Kyle Boatright
>RV-6
1) Lay down Saran Wrap (or better, 2 to 8 mil plastic) on your cutting board
(Formica, hardboard).
2) Cut the BID piece 3/4 inch oversize and lay it on the Saran Wrap.
3) Pour on a thin figure 8 line of epoxy and gently (w/o stretching) spread
it out with a spreader
4) Lay a 2nd Saran Wrap piece over the first.
5) Draw the final outline on the 2nd piece using a juicy whiteboard marker
6) Cut to final size through the sandwich with a sharp pizza-type fiberglass
cutter
7) Peel the 2nd Saran Wrap off
8) Carry the minimally-wetted BID piece by the Saran Wrap to the plane and
apply it by handling the Saran Wrap
9) Handle only by Saran Wrap -- lay it on, adjust it, stipple it, swear at
it -- do everything by manipulating the Saran Wrap. Your fingers never
touchy epoxy.
10) Pull off the Saran Wrap.
Note that you can (and should!) do as many as 8 layers at once with this
technique to achieve maximal strength and minimal weight. This technique
was taught to me by my local Lancair ES builder friend.
At Sun&Fun 2000 the instructor taught us that one oz of epoxy should wet
about one oz of cloth. Thus a quart of epoxy should wet out about 4 sq
yards of 8-oz BID. Few RV builders (myself included) achieve this optimal
degree of layup.
Dennis Persyk RV6A N600DP getting close
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Vince,
I have the A F P system and love it!
Very quick acceleration
very smooth running./ when ya lean it
doesn't get rough but just quits when too lean.
Better fuel atomization so better economy..
No carb heat muff or linkage...
Is it worth it?? My opinion is YES.
Stewart RV4 Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Listers,
I just got back from OSH. I had my RV list badge on for the duration and
made a dozen new friends thanks to the badge. Thanks Steve!
Vince Frazier
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-985-7309 home
812-464-1839 work
Harmon Rocket II
N314VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: N-Number (Phone # for FAA?) |
Eli,
The phone number in Ok City fro records is (405) 954-3116. You get all the
paperwork for registration and certification from your local FSDO.
If you would like I will run a database scan for any 'N' numbers you are
thinking about and let you know if they are available.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Last minute nickel and dime stuff
>From: RV6captain(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: N-Number (Phone # for FAA?)
>Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 19:08:44 EDT
>
>
>Can someone give me the phone # for the FAA so I can check on N-numbers? I
>saw it up here before but I lost it. Also where do I get the paperwork for
>getting my registration?
>Thanks,
>Eli Lewis
>Venice, FL
>RV-6 (Final Paint and assembly)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Windshield Surround |
Kyle,
I have been helping a friend of mine build his Cozy4 and we continuously
have had this problem. The one thing we did that seems to help is put a
piece of tape across the ends of the strip. That way at least we know
exactly what the width was when we started. That has helped us start out at
the right width then it is just a matter of pulling the strip wider (to the
right width?) as it is layed down on the wet resin. After that we just dig
in with out fingers and re-arrange it to what we want. I used that same
method for the dnaopy fairing on my -8A and it worked out well also.
Hope this helps and isn't too confusing.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
going crazy with the last minute stuff
>From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass Windshield Surround
>Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 23:50:34 EDT
>
>
>Listers,
>
>A few observations after spending several days laying up and shaping the
>fiberglass fairing around the windshield of a slider RV-6. (And it still
>isn't quite done...)
>
>1) The method Scott McDaniels posted a couple of years ago works well.
>Search the archives for McDaniels & fiberglass & windshield, and you'll
>come
>across it.
>
>2) I added several layers of carbon fiber to my fairing across the
>rollbar.
>It adds strength, and I highly recommend it. What I don't recommend is
>making carbon fiber your first layer against the plexiglass. The fibers
>are
>so stiff, they just don't seem to wet out as well as conventional
>fiberglass
>cloth, so you just don't get as good of a bond to the plexiglass as you
>would
>with fiberglass. I'd recommend at least one layer of fiberglass, then the
>carbon fiber.
>
>3) This operation takes a lot of material for an RV-6. Sure, I'm a bit
>liberal with resin, and I waste a bit too, but I'd say this layup took most
>of a quart kit of West System Epoxy. It takes a lot of little cloth strips
>too. (By the way, Wal-Mart carries the little Pizza cutter style cloth
>cutters you need to cut straight fiberglass strips. You can find them in
>the
>fabric section.)
>
>4) I still have not figured out how to keep fiberglass cut on the bias
>from
>"necking down" when I make a layup. The stuff is like double knit.. It
>just
>stretches and stretches. The downside is that the pieces I cut 2" wide
>ended
>up as 1.25", etc.... Any solutions?
>
>Kyle Boatright
>RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Seward747(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 7/31/00 7:01:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< 've been doing some work quieting down equipment for use on sound
> stages
> and the difference these "mineral impregnated urethane" self sticking
> films
> make is dramatic. I suppose that treating enough of the sheet metal
> would
> probably weigh more than two pair of headphones, but still I'm
> curious...
How about a source for this wonder material? MIU, shall we call it?
:)
and how flame resistant is it?
>>
Just happen to have a flyer on this material sitting on my desk as I type
this. Just back from Oshkosh, where I talked w/ a company called Skandia
that markets this stuff. They had on display a stripped C-172 fuselage that
had the various types of materials installed in different areas of the
airframe; silver foil backed on the floorboards, a blue backed type on the
sidewalls, etc. They claim to have done extensive research, using an
acoustical engineer, to determine what works best where and offer
soundproofing kits for generic two place aircraft (RVs) up to cabin class
twins. The manufacturer is E-A-R, as in the "foamy" type earplugs, and claim
compliance w/ FAR 25.853 (a) App. F Part I (a) (1) (ii) for flammability.
Phone is 815/ 393-4600, FAX 815/393-3501 (no personal connection).
Doug Seward
Seattle area, -4, wings
felt right at home, OSH wx was low grey overcast, occasional rain
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 07/30/00 |
Regarding the following message. Don't forget that Vans sells "oops"
rivets. These have a head size equivalent to the next smaller rivet. If
you enlarge a hole, drill it out 1 size up and install an "oops" rivet that
fits properly. Its head will be the same size as all the others, so the
world won't know you made a mistake.
ALSO: If any builders are in the area and would like a "motivational" ride
let me know. These planes make going to work everyday worth while.
Don Mei
Essex, CT
N92CT RV-4
>i have 1/8 hole to large and went up to 5/32. i screwed it up and now it to
>big. this is on a rib flange i am attaching to elevator spar. i did put an
>extra 1/8 in the middle of the two originals. question, being i have 2 1/8
>set fine, one on end and one in middle what is you guys opinion in going
>with either a sheet metal screw, if so tell me type, dumb a... here, or a
>big pop rivet. the hole is too big now for a 5/32. if a pop is suggested
>would it have to be aircraft quality or something i could find at home
>depot?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting |
Jim,
Pop rivets for that area will work out fine. If you have any concerns then
get Cherry rivets to go there which are structural.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting
>Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 11:50:23 GMT
>
>
>I can't set the rivets on the outboard half of my trim tab spar (and the
>corresponding rear elevator spar). My 2-1/2" Avery yoke is too thick, and
>I
>can't figure out how to get a bucking bar with enough mass in there to use
>the gun. I'm a little leery of using the gun anyhow, because of the thin
>skin. I don't think a thin yoke would work, because it would have to reach
>over the piano hinge.
>
>I'm looking for ideas. Is there a pop rivet that will do the job? (The
>proper rivet is the AN 426 AD3-4.) Thanks in advance for your help.
>
>Jim Bower
>RV-6A (Emp)
>St. Louis, MO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 top skin question |
I have finally drilled my top skin to the tops of the bulkheads on my -4.
My question is about when it comes time to rivet that puppy on. The
rear-most top bulkhead: how did you guys rivet that thing? Should I face
the flange aft and squeeze the rivets on or should I leave the flange facing
forward and use pop rivets. If pop rivets, what would be a good type to
use? CS4-4? Cherry Max?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
How can I get in touch with this company?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
permanently finishing cockpit and FWF items.
-----Original Message-----
Just happen to have a flyer on this material sitting on my desk as I type
this. Just back from Oshkosh, where I talked w/ a company called Skandia
that markets this stuff. They had on display a stripped C-172 fuselage that
had the various types of materials installed in different areas of the
airframe; silver foil backed on the floorboards, a blue backed type on the
sidewalls, etc. They claim to have done extensive research, using an
acoustical engineer, to determine what works best where and offer
soundproofing kits for generic two place aircraft (RVs) up to cabin class
twins. The manufacturer is E-A-R, as in the "foamy" type earplugs, and
claim
compliance w/ FAR 25.853 (a) App. F Part I (a) (1) (ii) for flammability.
Phone is 815/ 393-4600, FAX 815/393-3501 (no personal connection).
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: RV-4 top skin question
Thread-Index: Ab/7MVpvQ2b333lcRVydThc0r+h3ngAAXSaw
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 top skin question |
Scott,
A few years back I helped a friend rivet the turtle deck on an RV-4.
You can use regular rivets in there...I bucked them while I was already
inside the rear fuselage doing the rest of them. I also was 25 pounds
lighter back then whiched helped me get down in there.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ
Inspection passed last Friday, first flight sometime this week when the
weather is perfect
-----Original Message-----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott [mailto:svanarts(at)unionsafe.com]
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 2:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 top skin question
I have finally drilled my top skin to the tops of the bulkheads on my
-4.
My question is about when it comes time to rivet that puppy on. The
rear-most top bulkhead: how did you guys rivet that thing? Should I
face
the flange aft and squeeze the rivets on or should I leave the flange
facing
forward and use pop rivets. If pop rivets, what would be a good type to
use? CS4-4? Cherry Max?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: 8A Flight Data |
Bill,
I have this system, installed in the GX 65 but the same thing. I have no
problems with the intercom nor the monitor function. But, I did have to
send the unit back to UPS Aviation under warranty to get the intercom to
work. Mailed out next day air Monday and got it back Thursday, along with
software update and getting the stickiness out of the knobs. This was a
minor hassle to take the RV down for four days but I finally got over it. I
really like the Apollo GX 65.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 116 hrs Melbourne, FL
>From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 8A Flight Data
>Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 18:38:33 -0400
>
>
>I have heard from two sources now about problems with the SL series Apollo
>radio like this one. The 'built in intercom' is rumored to be a real
>pain,
>as well as the feature allowing you to monitor a second freq. Anyone else
>out there with similar experiences? I may have to rethink my radio
>choices....grrrrrr
>
>Bill
>
>
> > I am having problems with ambient noise keying the intercom on the SL30
>&
>am
> > playing with the settings, but other than that all is going great.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Windshield Surround |
Kyle,
I also did just as you said with good results. Thanks Scott McD. for that
great post & to Matt D. for the archives! One way to prevent the bias cut
neck down is to cut & layup on a piece of visqueen plastic. Flip the
plastic over onto the area taking the layup & carefully peel the plastic
away while stipling down the wetted out cloth.
Also: Warning for a potential screw up down the road.
Always check the outside latch handle is NOT pointed forward when the canopy
is slid closed. That carbon dings easily when the pointed end hits it. A
stop to prevent that much rotation in the handle would be the solution.
Maybe on the next RV?
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 116 hrs Melbourne, FL
>From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass Windshield Surround
>Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 23:50:34 EDT
>
>
>Listers,
>
>A few observations after spending several days laying up and shaping the
>fiberglass fairing around the windshield of a slider RV-6. (And it still
>isn't quite done...)
>
>1) The method Scott McDaniels posted a couple of years ago works well.
>Search the archives for McDaniels & fiberglass & windshield, and you'll
>come
>across it.
>
>2) I added several layers of carbon fiber to my fairing across the
>rollbar.
>It adds strength, and I highly recommend it. What I don't recommend is
>making carbon fiber your first layer against the plexiglass. The fibers
>are
>so stiff, they just don't seem to wet out as well as conventional
>fiberglass
>cloth, so you just don't get as good of a bond to the plexiglass as you
>would
>with fiberglass. I'd recommend at least one layer of fiberglass, then the
>carbon fiber.
>
>3) This operation takes a lot of material for an RV-6. Sure, I'm a bit
>liberal with resin, and I waste a bit too, but I'd say this layup took most
>of a quart kit of West System Epoxy. It takes a lot of little cloth strips
>too. (By the way, Wal-Mart carries the little Pizza cutter style cloth
>cutters you need to cut straight fiberglass strips. You can find them in
>the
>fabric section.)
>
>4) I still have not figured out how to keep fiberglass cut on the bias
>from
>"necking down" when I make a layup. The stuff is like double knit.. It
>just
>stretches and stretches. The downside is that the pieces I cut 2" wide
>ended
>up as 1.25", etc.... Any solutions?
>
>Kyle Boatright
>RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | RV-9 Fuse kits available |
Fellow listers
Just got a letter from Vans stating that the fuselage kit is now
available It can be ordered with the tip up of sliding canopy and the
price is $4900
Jim Streit
RV-9 emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Here is the website for E-A-R http://www.EARSC.com/
Ross
>
> How can I get in touch with this company?
>
> Steve Soule
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Mon, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004612434@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Mon,
31 Jul 2000 15:43:51.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Engine Ground Testing: Redlining CHTs |
Hello Listers,
I need you to help me troubleshoot a recent problem. I'm finally ground testing
my engine.
It's an 0360-A1A w/ 600 hours on it. It starts up quickly and runs smoothly.
But within only
1 or 2 minutes the CHTs on cylinders 2, 3 & 4 reach red line (260c). Cylinder
1 indicates
only 150c. Oil pressure is good at 63psi and oil temp is still cold at 30c.
Following are the troubleshooting items I have tried or plan to try:
1. I looked over the mixture cable and realized I wasn't getting full rich mixture.
I adjusted
the cable. It had no affect on the CHTs.
2. I ran the engine with and without the cowling on --- into the wind. No joy.
3. I will swap the probes to cylinders 1 and 3 to see if it's just bad readings
from the probes.
(doubtful)
4. I will review the timing. Could it be that I didn't set the timing correctly?
Maybe it's all
wrong and I'm getting detonation and preignition. (hopeful)
5. I don't know the first thing about how the oil gets to each cylinder. Is it
possible that
cylinders 2, 3 & 4 are not getting oil? How do I check this? How do I fix it?
6. Well, I don't even like to think of it, but I suppose I could have 3 junk cylinders
that are
just scraping and chunking so badly against the cylinder walls that they're sending
the temps
soaring. We'll just ignore this potentiality until all other possibilities have
been exhausted.
7. Find a mechanic. Actually, I have. Our local WWII vintage A&P told me I had
too many
darned CHT probes and gadgets. He said to just ignore them and watch your oil
temp.
Maybe I caught him on a bad day.
So, what does the evidence indicate to you? What additional suggestions do you
have?
Thanks for your help!
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, Trying to be patient as I work through endless stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Mon, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004612436@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Mon,
31 Jul 2000 15:43:56.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | RV-4 top skin question |
Scott,
I kept that last bulkhead facing the way the plans called for --- I'm reluctant
to change
anything called for in the plans. I sent my young son down the hole with a bucking
bar and
put in solid rivets. There were a couple of places that were impossible for us
to get solid
rivets into --- so I used a couple of CS4-4's in those locations.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X
> I have finally drilled my top skin to the tops of the bulkheads on my -4.
> My question is about when it comes time to rivet that puppy on. The
> rear-most top bulkhead: how did you guys rivet that thing? Should I face
> the flange aft and squeeze the rivets on or should I leave the flange facing
> forward and use pop rivets. If pop rivets, what would be a good type to
> use? CS4-4? Cherry Max?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: 8A Flight Data |
Rick,
If I begged, and pleaded and promised lunch, beer, gas...first born child.
Think I could experience that GX-65 in person....with some background wind
and prop noise?
I would also really like to take a look at Bill's -4 again...I have some
things I want to see how it was done...know what I mean?
Bill
Orlando
-4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8A Flight Data
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I have this system, installed in the GX 65 but the same thing. I have no
> problems with the intercom nor the monitor function. But, I did have to
> send the unit back to UPS Aviation under warranty to get the intercom to
> work. Mailed out next day air Monday and got it back Thursday, along with
> software update and getting the stickiness out of the knobs. This was a
> minor hassle to take the RV down for four days but I finally got over it.
I
> really like the Apollo GX 65.
>
> Rick Caldwell
> RV-6 116 hrs Melbourne, FL
>
> >From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: 8A Flight Data
> >Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 18:38:33 -0400
> >
> >
> >I have heard from two sources now about problems with the SL series
Apollo
> >radio like this one. The 'built in intercom' is rumored to be a real
> >pain,
> >as well as the feature allowing you to monitor a second freq. Anyone
else
> >out there with similar experiences? I may have to rethink my radio
> >choices....grrrrrr
> >
> >Bill
> >
> >
> > > I am having problems with ambient noise keying the intercom on the
SL30
> >&
> >am
> > > playing with the settings, but other than that all is going great.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Hi Listers,
For those of you who have a slider canopy, what have you
found to be a good location to mount the ELT and antenna ?
The tip up offers a good spot behind the rollover, but a slider is always
exposing this area.....where is a good "out of harm's way " to put the
antenna ??
Thanks,
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | HVLP vs. Conventional Spray Guns |
While researching paints, I found this study that Dupont did on HVLP vs.
conventional guns.
http://partners.dupont.com/Finishes/webpub.nsf?OpenDatabase under
"Equipment" and then "07/21/1999____HVLP Spray Gun Study"
Very interesting read. The bottom line.....HVLP only increases transfer
efficiency (a measurement of the amount of paint that is deposited on the
desired surface, divided by the amount that was sprayed. The calculation is
normally done on a paint solids basis) by 4% to 6%.
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Homemade Air Dryer |
Back in '96, Gary Zilik (you there Gary????) gave us a home brewed dryer for
our air compressors. Here it is:
"I used a 5 gallon bucket and a placed a coil of soft copper tube inside.
The tube exits at the top and bottom through holes drilled into the bucket
and sealed with RTV. The tube exiting the bottom of the bucket is fitted
with a male disconnect ( the inlet) and the top tube has a gascolater type
water separator followed by a female quick connect. Fill the bucket with
water and ice and you have a very effective dryer as the water will condense
in the tubes and be collected in the colater. I use frozen gallon milk jugs
for ice and throw the jug in the bucket and when done painting put the jug
back in the freezer. A desiccant filter is used at the gun for residual
moisture protection."
Later that same year Brian Yablon gave us his rendition of Gary's idea.
Here it is:
"At Home Depot, I bought 50' of 3/8" copper refrigeration tubing, along with
a couple of 1/4" NPT-to-tubing compression fittings ($25). Using a paint
can as a form, I made a tight coil of the tubing. I held the coil together
by soldering some scrap 12-gauge copper wire to the coil at the 3, 6, 9 and
12 o'clock positions. Using the remaining wire ends, I hung the coil in the
middle of a 5-gal drywall bucket. I
drilled holes at the top and bottom of the bucket for the ends of the coil
to exit, and sealed them with silicone caulk. A 3' length of air
hose connects the top of the coil to my compressor. I transplanted the
separator/filter and air chuck to the bottom of the coil.
To operate, I fill the bucket with cold water, toss in a few of those
reusable blue cooler ice packs, and away I go. Water condenses out of the
air, flows downhill, and collects in the separator. My tools now run
completely dry. The only caveat is I have to remember to
drain the air filter OFTEN. This gizmo works so effectively that it can
fill the bowl in the separator in no time."
Now my question.
In Gary's design, the air from the compressor enters the bottom of the
bucket and exits the top. In Brian's design, this is reversed. I would
tend to think Gary's is the way to go. Any comments?
Also, Gary, what do you mean by a "gascolater type water separator?" Can
you give me a part number or something? Is it from an automotive store or
what?
Thanks,
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
I have been researching foam for seats. The only company that I have found
to sell temperature sensitive foams (visco elastic memory foam) of different
firmnesses is E-A-R brand Confor Foam. My local discount foam distributor
sells it for $10 a board foot (1" x 12" X12") Does anyone have a cheaper
source or recommendation of different brands?
Here are some links
http://www.seatfoam.com/
http://www.EARSC.com/materials/index.html
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)peoplepc.com> |
Subject: | RST intercom for sale |
Hello fellow listers...
I am selling my rst 565 intercom kit. This kit is has been completed and
calibrated. I bought the Microair radio and will not need this kit. The
price for the 565 is $200.00 & shipping. Rst's web site now sells this kit
for $242.00 & s/h.
Rick & Barbara Osgood
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-aerobatic ,
list-aviation ,
list-avionics ,
list-beech ,
list-cessna ,
list-ez ,
list-glasair ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket ,
list-tailwind ,
list-zenith
Subject: | Gretz Aero products web site |
Greetings Listers,
I have a web site you may be interested in looking at. All of my
products are listed there with photos and prices.
The address is http://www.gretzaero.com
I hope you like what I offer.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 top skin question |
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 12:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 top skin question
>
> Sorry I cant speak directly on a -4 but I was the "inside" man on
Gummibears Rocket. At 6-0 240# the main thing I had going for me was long
arms and was the smallest around of the three guys there. We used a piece of
1/4" plywood cut to match the bottom of the "boat". We cut out knotchs for
the bulk heads so it looking like a surfboard with shark bits at each
bulkhead. Turn it sideways and lay it down. Next remove keys, wallet, comb,
change, belt buckle and anything else not required to buck. We also lifted
the tail so the board was a slight uphill climb. Light (cool tube, is best)
and a fan at the openning should get you started on the right track so you
don't need to pick Pop rivets as the second best way. Glasses fog up but I
need them only for distance vision.
A light paint job on the top of the surfboard could save you many splinters,
so you dont find for a few weeks when they get ready to leave, dont ask how
I know this. Hope this helps, I can send you a photo if you contact either
Gummibear or Kabong.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting |
In a message dated 7/31/00 4:54:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I can't set the rivets on the outboard half of my trim tab spar (and the
corresponding rear elevator spar). My 2-1/2" Avery yoke is too thick, and I
can't figure out how to get a bucking bar with enough mass in there to use
the gun. I'm a little leery of using the gun anyhow, because of the thin
skin. I don't think a thin yoke would work, because it would have to reach
over the piano hinge. >>
Did you remove the hinge pin? --------- Fred LaForge RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
I got a rubber coated ELT antenna and mounted it under the empenage cover in
the horizontal position. Tests indicate that it works fine. But tests are
all I plan on doing at this point.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Batton down the hatches...Hurricane Daniel is on the way
>From: "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: ELTs
>Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 15:58:21 -0700
>
>
>Hi Listers,
> For those of you who have a slider canopy, what have
>you
>found to be a good location to mount the ELT and antenna ?
> The tip up offers a good spot behind the rollover, but a slider is
>always
>exposing this area.....where is a good "out of harm's way " to put the
>antenna ??
>Thanks,
>Austin.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Testing: Redlining CHTs |
0.83) with SMTP id ; Mon", 31, Jul, 2000, 15:43:51.-0700(at)matronics.com
wrote:
>
>
> Hello Listers,
> I need you to help me troubleshoot a recent problem. I'm finally ground testing
my engine.
> It's an 0360-A1A w/ 600 hours on it. It starts up quickly and runs smoothly.
But within only
> 1 or 2 minutes the CHTs on cylinders 2, 3 & 4 reach red line (260c). Cylinder
1 indicates
> only 150c. Oil pressure is good at 63psi and oil temp is still cold at 30c.
>
> Following are the troubleshooting items I have tried or plan to try:
> 1. I looked over the mixture cable and realized I wasn't getting full rich mixture.
I adjusted
> the cable. It had no affect on the CHTs.
>
> 2. I ran the engine with and without the cowling on --- into the wind. No joy.
>
> 3. I will swap the probes to cylinders 1 and 3 to see if it's just bad readings
from the probes.
> (doubtful)
>
> 4. I will review the timing. Could it be that I didn't set the timing correctly?
Maybe it's all
> wrong and I'm getting detonation and preignition. (hopeful)
>
> 5. I don't know the first thing about how the oil gets to each cylinder. Is
it possible that
> cylinders 2, 3 & 4 are not getting oil? How do I check this? How do I fix it?
>
> 6. Well, I don't even like to think of it, but I suppose I could have 3 junk
cylinders that are
> just scraping and chunking so badly against the cylinder walls that they're sending
the temps
> soaring. We'll just ignore this potentiality until all other possibilities have
been exhausted.
>
> 7. Find a mechanic. Actually, I have. Our local WWII vintage A&P told me I
had too many
> darned CHT probes and gadgets. He said to just ignore them and watch your oil
temp.
> Maybe I caught him on a bad day.
>
> So, what does the evidence indicate to you? What additional suggestions do you
have?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, Trying to be patient as I work through endless stuff
>
Your mechanic is probably the closest to being right. Ground testing for
CHT
temps is not a good idea. Any extended running on the ground without the
cowling is even a worse idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Ambient Cockpit Noise |
I think I have solved the problem.
I spoke both to UPS Aviation Technologies & Lightspeed.
1. I am going to adjust the Mic 1 & Mic 2 Squelch down in the comm options.
I initially took it from 80 to 50, but was told to take it to 20 or less.
This should help.
2. With the Lightspeed Mics the screw on the Mic must be facing the
windscreen, if it is the other way around the mic is facing away from your
mouth & picking up the ambient cockpit noise.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I will investigate on tomorrows flight.....Mark
Steffensen
8A Dallas 4 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark Gilbert <mgilbert(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Iridite Mixing Ratio |
I obtained some iridite powder but it did not come with mixing
instructions from the supplier. Would someone please provide me with
the ratio of iridite powder to water to make an alodine solution.
Does anyone on the list know of a California supplier of iridite powder?
I obtained my 8 oz. supply from a Canadian source and learned a lesson
about not first asking about the shipping charges - $65 to ship $30
worth of powder - ouch.
Mark Gilbert
RV-6A
Sacramento
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
I've seen them mounted inside under the sliding canopy - the fuselage part.
There is a curved bow pointing aft that will serve nicely. I've got a
picture - but no scanner.
Details - zap me offline and I'll put something together for you with the
part number of the aft pointing bow...
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 top skin question |
Scott,
I was able to reach in through the hole in the bulkhead and buck all of the
rivets. If your hand doesn't reach or won't fit maybe you could find
someone with small hands to help. Keep in mind the rivets on that bulkhead
are under the emp. fairing so if there is a little cosmetic imperfection
from a riveting newbee it won't show on the finished product.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 top skin question
>Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 12:57:18 -0700
>
>
>
>I have finally drilled my top skin to the tops of the bulkheads on my -4.
>My question is about when it comes time to rivet that puppy on. The
>rear-most top bulkhead: how did you guys rivet that thing? Should I face
>the flange aft and squeeze the rivets on or should I leave the flange
>facing
>forward and use pop rivets. If pop rivets, what would be a good type to
>use? CS4-4? Cherry Max?
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV-9 Fuse kits available |
Ordered mine already, didnt see an option for electric flaps, tho. Must be
just an order it from the catalog option
Kevin Shannon
-9 wing control surfaces
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RST intercom for sale |
Rick,
Keep in mind the microair is a pushbutton intercom not voice activated. I
just went over the schematics for the microair and noticed this, I had been
assuming it was a typical voice activated. I just might get a seperate
intercom for mine to avoid the extra switch on the stick.
Just thought I'd mention this because it caught me by suprise.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
>From: "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)peoplepc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv-list"
>Subject: RV-List: RST intercom for sale
>Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:08:36 -0700
>
>
>
>Hello fellow listers...
>
>I am selling my rst 565 intercom kit. This kit is has been completed and
>calibrated. I bought the Microair radio and will not need this kit. The
>price for the 565 is $200.00 & shipping. Rst's web site now sells this kit
>for $242.00 & s/h.
>
>
>Rick & Barbara Osgood
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Top skin and engine |
Listers, What are the opinions on riveting on the top skin before hanging
the engine. The skin carries load in this design but is it necessary that
it be complete? I have been of the opinion that it needed to be on but I've
talked to others who hung the engine w/o the skin. Van's said that they put
the engine on the -9A w/o the skin BUT they left the hoist attached to take
some of the load. Perhaps I could crib underneath. I would really, really
like to install the engine w/o the skin because of ease of access. What say
you?
Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com On
the gear, fuselage interior and wiring, engine arrived, avionics on the
way.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> Back in '96, Gary Zilik (you there Gary????) gave us a home brewed dryer for
> our air compressors.
>
> In Gary's design, the air from the compressor enters the bottom of the
> bucket and exits the top. In Brian's design, this is reversed. I would
> tend to think Gary's is the way to go. Any comments?
Yes I am here. The reason I made the uphill system with the water trap at the
top was that is was easy to make. As long as there is a sufficient lenght of
tubing submerged in the cold water to condense the moisture in compressed air I
don't think it would matter where the water trap was located. Some people have
had good luck using a coil of air hose instead of the copper tubing but I favor
the copper. Copper has much better heat transfer so a shorter coil can be
used. When I switched to an HVLP spray gun I replace my 3/8" tube with 3/4" as
I was getting to much pressure drop through the 3/8" tube.
>
>
> Also, Gary, what do you mean by a "gascolater type water separator?" Can
> you give me a part number or something? Is it from an automotive store or
> what?
Sears has them. They can be found anywhere compressors are sold. Sometimes the
water trap is packaged with a drip oiler for your air tools. Throw the oiler
away, they usually supply to much oil and rendure an air hose useless for
delivering air for painting.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ - Back from an incredible week in Oshkosh
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ross Mickey
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCN44257(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
A very effective air dryer can be made from a 4" or 6" length of pipe rated
for the pressure you are using. Close the end with caps threaded for 1/4" or
3/8" fittings. Pack the pipe with Kotex or similar female napkins. When they
get moist simply remove the cap and refill with new product.
Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Sam Cherroff wrote:
>
>
> Mark Steffensen said:
> >
> > I am having problems with ambient noise keying the intercom on the SL30 & am
> > playing with the settings
> >
> >
>
> I'm about to dive into a 6A project, and was wondering what (if anything) the
> builders do to reduce cabin noise levels? Dynafocal e/m's and well fitted
> canopies are a start, but is anybody applying anti-resonance materials to the
snip
> --Sam
>
In my -4, sealing the canopy to prevent wind noise made a dramatic
difference. I didn't do any measurements, but it seemed to cut cabin
noise in half.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Vacuum system |
>Many of these
> parts are very expensive, the fittings for the vacuum pump are worth
> $100.00 alone
I think the word should be "cost" rather than "worth". I made some out of
copper for about $2, two or three elbows and a couple 3/8" NPT adapters.
Fits the 5/8" ID tube to the regulator perfectly. Wide open ID, just like
the $100 jobs.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting |
> << I can't set the rivets on the outboard half of my trim tab spar (and
the
> corresponding rear elevator spar). My 2-1/2" Avery yoke is too thick,
and I
> can't figure out how to get a bucking bar with enough mass in there to
use
> the gun. I'm a little leery of using the gun anyhow, because of the thin
> skin. I don't think a thin yoke would work, because it would have to
reach
> over the piano hinge. >>
Find a small strip of aluminum or steel, about 1/4" by 1/8" by an inch or so
long, and use it directly against the shop head of the rivet. This allows
one to use the squeezer without mashing the hinge. This "shims" the
squeezer die away from the hinges. I've used this several places in the
project.
Alex Peterson
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | RV-9 Fuse kits available |
According to the staff at Van's booth at Oshkosh, electric flaps are
standard on the -9. I mailed my down payment last Wednesday.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Flaps
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Ordered mine already, didnt see an option for electric flaps, tho. Must be
just an order it from the catalog option
Kevin Shannon
-9 wing control surfaces
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Iridite Mixing Ratio |
Mark
I mix my Iridite 14-2 as follows 1 lb. of powder to 10 gallons of water.
Works great. Also check for Alodine 1200S. That is Henkel Corp.'s powder
equivilent.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> I obtained some iridite powder but it did not come with mixing
> instructions from the supplier. Would someone please provide me with
> the ratio of iridite powder to water to make an alodine solution.
>
> Does anyone on the list know of a California supplier of iridite powder?
> I obtained my 8 oz. supply from a Canadian source and learned a lesson
> about not first asking about the shipping charges - $65 to ship $30
> worth of powder - ouch.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | 6/6A -Tank/fuse distance |
I am installing my gasolator and facet pump outside between the tank and
fuse. My wings are not on and I need to know the distance between them. I
measure 3" right at the spar. It looks from the drawings that it is
narrower at the top and gets larger as you move forward (for). I would like
to know the distance at 4" and 10" in front of the spar and a conformation
that it is 3" at the spar.
Thanks,
Ross Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | My alodine has lost its mojo |
I have several gallons of alodine that has lost its mojo. It still looks
and smells hideous, and I haven't done tons of alodining with it - just the
empennage and wings, but parts no longer emerge that lovely maple color I've
come to love. I've heard rumours that it can be rejuvenated, and I was
wondering if anyone out there knows how.
Otherwise it's off to Household Toxics Day.
Matthew
8A N48PP about to mix my first ProSeal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 7/31/00 4:46:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 6430(at)axion.net
writes:
<< For those of you who have a slider canopy, what have you
found to be a good location to mount the ELT and antenna ?
The tip up offers a good spot behind the rollover, but a slider is always
exposing this area.....where is a good "out of harm's way " to put the
antenna ?? >>
I put it on the seatback crossbar to longeron gusset on the passenger side in
the baggage area and use a heavy thread to pull the tip towards the
turtledeck bulkhead. It drapes right along the canopy glass and never gets
in the way. I have the Ack ELT mounted between the edge of the seat and the
side wall to make it easy to get at.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
Subject: | Re: RV8A First Flight |
<<
> 2 flights today - 1.5 hours.>>>
Congratulations Mark on a job well done. Can I
make a booking for a ride at Christmas???
as I'll be visiting family in Fort Worth
Cheers, Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Testing: Redlining CHTs |
Hi Clay,
I think you are prudent to investigate. I have found that problems never
go away and don't get better. This doesn't sound like an engine problem.
One or two minutes of run time especially at idle won't get your engine that
hot. Your exhaust will rise fairly rapidly, but it takes longer for the
cylinder heads to soak up the heat. If you are using conventional baffling,
running for extended periods on the ground isn't too good.
You don't indicate whose engine instrumentation you are using. Question 1
- Do your instruments indicate ambient at startup? With a cold engine, both
the exhaust probes and the cylinder heads should indicate a temperature close
to ambient. Mine are within 10 deg F. Some things I would check. Did you use
the correct thermocouple wiring from the temperature probe back to the
device? An easy test is to pull one or two of the probes, stick it in an ice
bath followed by a cup of boiling water. If you don't see temps on the order
of 32 and 212 F, something is awry. Have you mixed and matched equipment. I.
e do you have type J Tc's connected to a K meter or vice versa? Have you
used a grounded couple with a non grounded system.
Cheers
Tom Brown RV4 O-360 B1B Vm1000 for monitoring
RV4Brown(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8A First Flight |
Ken,
Yes. Just let me know know when you are here. I am going to be visiting
familiy in Chicago the week between xmas & Jan 1. So the week before or of
xmas I will be around......Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 3:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A First Flight
>
>
> << morning.
> >
> > 2 flights today - 1.5 hours.>>>
>
> Congratulations Mark on a job well done. Can I
> make a booking for a ride at Christmas???
> as I'll be visiting family in Fort Worth
>
> Cheers, Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: My Alodine has lost it's mojo |
Matt
One gallon of liquid Alodine (or Iridite) is good for 200 square feet
of surface area. Consider how many square feet of sheet aluminium you've
converted. Don't forget to double the figure as you are working on both
side of the sheet. There is a good chance that you've simply "used it
up".
Another way people "destroy" Alodine is to set the dip tanks up
outside in the sun. You can ruin several gallons of it very quickly this
way. Don't ask me how I know! :-(
I've saved the following regarding rejuevenating Alodine:
"If you are going to use the solution over a long period of time, free
oxygen will be depleted so you may need to add a fish aerating stone to
the bottom of the tank and blow some air into it for best results.
Further, warming the solution to 90 degrees F and agitation iproves the
chemical film development vs time."
Gary Van Remortal
I've used this technique with some success on 2 year old Alodine. It
worked but took much longer than normal to get good "color" on the
parts. You will find lots of good posts in the archives on this subject.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
> I have several gallons of alodine that has lost its mojo. It still
looks and smells hideous, and I haven't >done tons of alodining with it
-just the empennage and wings, but parts no longer emerge that lovely
>maple color I've come to love. I've heard rumours that it can be
rejuvenated, and I was wondering if >anyone out there knows how.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com> |
Subject: | ELT Antenna location w/slider canopy |
Austin wrote:
> For those of you who have a slider canopy, what have
> you found to be a good location to mount the ELT and antenna ?
On my -3, I mounted the ELT on the baggage compartment floor. The antenna
is mounted on the fuselage just to the left of centerline a little ways aft
of the seatback and bent about 1-1/4" above the fuselage so it points aft
and parallels the canopy slide bar. The end of this particular antenna
winds up near the rear support of the canopy slide bar. It's supported
there with a lightweight bracket and a little piece of plastic tubing from
the Ace store so it doesn't flop around.
Tests indicate it works fine and it's always under the canopy whether open
or closed. Keeping it out of the wind probably gains .0002156 mph... :=))
I can take a digital picture of it if anyone is interested... drop me a
line.
Johnny Johnson
49MM -3 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting |
Easier still, use a couple of small washers under the die and that will give
you enough clearance to get around hinge.
Mike Nellis
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting
>
> > << I can't set the rivets on the outboard half of my trim tab spar (and
> the
> > corresponding rear elevator spar). My 2-1/2" Avery yoke is too thick,
> and I
> > can't figure out how to get a bucking bar with enough mass in there to
> use
> > the gun. I'm a little leery of using the gun anyhow, because of the
thin
> > skin. I don't think a thin yoke would work, because it would have to
> reach
> > over the piano hinge. >>
>
> Find a small strip of aluminum or steel, about 1/4" by 1/8" by an inch or
so
> long, and use it directly against the shop head of the rivet. This allows
> one to use the squeezer without mashing the hinge. This "shims" the
> squeezer die away from the hinges. I've used this several places in the
> project.
>
> Alex Peterson
>
>
> ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From
$7.99/mo! ------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-4 top skin question |
--- John Starn wrote:
> A light paint job on the top of the surfboard could save you many
> splinters,
> so you dont find for a few weeks when they get ready to leave, dont
> ask how I know this.
A piece of laminate board would work well in this situation. 3/4 inch,
plenty of support, has melamine bonded to the surface so it's nice and
smooth, also slick so you can scoot around as needed. No splinters!
Not there yet, but looking forward to it!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004628776@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Tue,
01 Aug 2000 06:57:45.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Testing: Redlining CHTs |
Tom,
Thanks for the response regarding my high CHTs. In answer to your questions, I'm
using the
Rocky Mountain Engine Monitor. I was careful to use the same type of metal connectors
and lengths of wire for each probe and believe I followed the RMI instructions
correctly. I
do see the same ambient temperatures for CHTs & EGTs in all four cylinders when
the
engine is cold.
You've raised some interesting ideas though. I will go back through my CHT wiring
to
double-check. I'll also check each cylinder with a hand-held thermometer (maybe
an oven
thermometer) after a one-minute ground run to verify if the gauges are accurate.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X
>
> Hi Clay,
>
> I think you are prudent to investigate. I have found that problems never
> go away and don't get better. This doesn't sound like an engine problem.
> One or two minutes of run time especially at idle won't get your engine that
> hot. Your exhaust will rise fairly rapidly, but it takes longer for the
> cylinder heads to soak up the heat. If you are using conventional baffling,
> running for extended periods on the ground isn't too good.
>
> You don't indicate whose engine instrumentation you are using. Question 1
> - Do your instruments indicate ambient at startup? With a cold engine, both
> the exhaust probes and the cylinder heads should indicate a temperature close
> to ambient. Mine are within 10 deg F. Some things I would check. Did you use
> the correct thermocouple wiring from the temperature probe back to the
> device? An easy test is to pull one or two of the probes, stick it in an ice
> bath followed by a cup of boiling water. If you don't see temps on the order
> of 32 and 212 F, something is awry. Have you mixed and matched equipment. I.
> e do you have type J Tc's connected to a K meter or vice versa? Have you
> used a grounded couple with a non grounded system.
>
> Cheers
>
> Tom Brown RV4 O-360 B1B Vm1000 for monitoring
> RV4Brown(at)aol.com
>
>
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Date: Monday, July 31, 2000 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cabin Noise
>
>Sam Cherroff wrote:
>>
>>
>> Mark Steffensen said:
>> >
>> > I am having problems with ambient noise keying the intercom on the SL30
& am
>> > playing with the settings
>> >
>> >
>>
>> I'm about to dive into a 6A project, and was wondering what (if anything)
the
>> builders do to reduce cabin noise levels? Dynafocal e/m's and well
fitted
>> canopies are a start, but is anybody applying anti-resonance materials to
the
>snip
>> --Sam
>>
>In my -4, sealing the canopy to prevent wind noise made a dramatic
>difference. I didn't do any measurements, but it seemed to cut cabin
>noise in half.
>
>Charlie
>
In the 4s and 6es I've ridden in (about 6 total), wind noise is louder than
engine noise and skin flexure noise. I have about 8 dB better hearing
sensitivity in the low, medium and high ranges than average for my age (59).
For that reason I find good (NRR 24 dB or better) passive headsets more
"quieting" than active headsets in RVs.
Dennis Persyk N600DP
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fitting nose tire to wheel |
Last night, I mounted my nose tire to the nose wheel. After reading the
archives and
talking to some local RV builders, I tried the "squeeze the wheel together
while
pushing the tube back into the tire" method -- with bad results. After
being very
careful to push the tube back into the tire multiple times, I had the wheel
halves
together. I started to inflate the tire only to be able to hear air
escaping back out
of the tube. The leak was slow enough that I was able to fill the tube
enough to
push the tire all the way on the wheel. As soon as I let the air out, the
tire pulled
back off both halves of the wheel. When I pulled the wheel back off, I saw
that
I had managed to pinch about a 3/4" section of the tube which of course
ruined
the tube.
I looked at it for awhile and decided there had to be a better way. The
method I
developed allowed me to easily mount the tire and have a very high
confidence
that I wouldn't pinch the tube. Here it is:
(In the following, the upper wheel refers to the half with the valve stem
and the lower
wheel refers to the half without the valve stem.)
1) Align wheel halves and mark on lower half where valve stem goes.
2) Insert the inner tube into the tire and inflate/deflate several cycles
to make sure
the tube doesn't have any twists in it.
3) Place the tire w/ tube over the lower wheel aligning the valve stem with
the
mark made in step 1.
4) Use large Quik-Grip clamps at an angle such that they grab the lower
wheel
and pinch the tire on the top, but don't get in the way of where the
upper wheel
needs to go.
5) Gradually tighten Quik-Grip clamps while pushing the deflated tube into
the tire.
Tighten the clamps until the upper bead of the tire is below the top
part of the
lower wheel everywhere except right around the valve stem. The tube
should
be completely hidden inside the tire and the lower wheel should be just
sticking
up everywhere except where the valve stem is located.
6) Carefully place the upper wheel half in place with the valve stem
exiting through
the proper hole.
7) Install bolts and nuts. Remove clamps. Inflate tire.
Hope this is helpful to somebody else. It seemed to be a lot easier to me.
Took
me more time to type this than to mount the tire.
Doug Medema
RV-6A #21140. Rebuilding my engine and mounting landing gear.
(P.S. I don't subscribe to the list but check the archives. Email me
directly if
you have questions and want a quick response.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | RV-8 Langing Gear Structure, Fluting Locations |
Listers, I have just begun work on the 802 landing gear parts and have run
into a problem that I could use some help on. With the 820 side skin butted
up to the edge of the 887 longeron as shown on the plans, Van's fluting
locations conicide perfectly with the rivet locations on the 802B, and are
very close on the 802A. Naturally I have already fluted the 802A, so it may
be junk. Has anyone else run into this problem? I have a fairly recent
fuselage kit, recieved in July. Thanks ahead of time, Andy Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
I assume this is plumbed inline in your hose.
Ross
>
> A very effective air dryer can be made from a 4" or 6" length of pipe
rated
> for the pressure you are using. Close the end with caps threaded for 1/4"
or
> 3/8" fittings. Pack the pipe with Kotex or similar female napkins. When
they
> get moist simply remove the cap and refill with new product.
>
> Karl Rigdon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
If you heat poly urethane it emits cyanide gas. Deadly even in small
amounts. Something I learned at a composite forum at Oshkosh. I wouldn't
use it as insulation in a cockpit, much less on the firewall.
Charlie
6AQB, On the gear
--------------------------------
>From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cabin Noise
>
>
> I've been doing some work quieting down equipment for use on sound stages
> and the difference these "mineral impregnated urethane" self sticking films
> make is dramatic. I suppose that treating enough of the sheet metal would
> probably weigh more than two pair of headphones, but still I'm curious...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | RV-8 Landing Gear Structure, Part 2 |
Well, Duhhh. My apologies to anyone who wastes time trying to figure out the
problem in my previous post on this subject. I was miss-reading the section
detail and thinking that the 802D was the 820 skin. Must be my dislexia
again. Andy Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Top skin and engine |
Jeff,
I hung the engine long before riveting the top skin. Otherwise putting all
those wires and such would have almost been an impossible task. Most of the
static load is taken up by the longerons anyway.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
couple more oil lines and its engine start time
>From: "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: , "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Top skin and engine
>Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:45:29 -0700
>
>
>Listers, What are the opinions on riveting on the top skin before hanging
>the engine. The skin carries load in this design but is it necessary that
>it be complete? I have been of the opinion that it needed to be on but
>I've
>talked to others who hung the engine w/o the skin. Van's said that they
>put
>the engine on the -9A w/o the skin BUT they left the hoist attached to take
>some of the load. Perhaps I could crib underneath. I would really, really
>like to install the engine w/o the skin because of ease of access. What
>say
>you?
>
>Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com
>On
>the gear, fuselage interior and wiring, engine arrived, avionics on the
>way.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 8/1/00 10:14:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
bvondane(at)atmel.com writes:
<< When should I take the masking tape off that I put over where the ribs go?
I took it off right away while the proseal was still wet and did any clean up
with lacquer thinner.
How long do I have to wait before I can do more on the same tank?
>>
I waited 48 hours. Press finger on it firmly - shouldn't leave a finger
print.
Good luck with the next part. Its not so bad really, especially having a
partner that likes mixing the stuff for you.
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (reserved) (Wing skins)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
Im thinking that a section of finned tubing used in hydronic heating
applications would work well to quickly condense the water vapor, I'll give
it a try and report later with the results. Your filter system sounds doable,
but I swore I'd never buy tampons again after the divorce...
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | vent oil separator question |
Hi listers,
I'm curious if anyone has experience with the oil separators sold in
aircraft spuces's catalog. I purchased one for my RV-4 but after looking at
it I'm not sure if its worth the trouble of finding space to mount it.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Subject: | Instrument Panel overhang |
For you tip up guy's...
What is the depth of your glare shield overhang and how many have bent the
fwd canopy skin
vs. cut the skin?
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> When should I take the masking tape off that I put over where the
> ribs go?
>
> How long do I have to wait before I can do more on the same tank?
Depending on how you mixed the Proseal, the mask should come off
anywhere from 15 - 30 minutes - just after it starts to stiffen up.
Longer and you'll leave tape behind or pull Proseal up.
Some folks get after another stage of a tank in a couple of hours. I
think consensus (including Van's, George O.) is to leave it alone for
24 hours to get a good set so that moving/flexing the tank won't pull a
joint loose.
Other factors affect - humidity, temperature. Just make sure you can't
leave a finger print on the surface of the Proseal before you start
another section.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Testing: Redlining CHTs |
Hi Clay
After I wrote this morning, I had another thought. Are you sure you are
reading temperature in centigrade. The temps you lists would not be unusual
if they were Fahrenheit. I get about 280F while taxiing out after 5 to 10
minutes.
let me know what you find out!
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Hi Bill,
If you used the masking tape for back riveting, get it off as soon as
possible. If it was used to prevent proseal from contacting a future rivet
line, I'd remove it as soon as you are done applying the first batch of
proseal. You can remove the excess proseal with MEK. Wear the appropriate
gloves.
When to work on the tanks again is a matter of preference. I'd wait a
day or two until the first batch of proseal sets up and isn't quite so
sticky. It's a question of how gooey you like to get.
Tom Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: vent oil separator question
Thread-Index: Ab/75XdwB0+0d8WdTE2lk9NRXtpg8gAACqwg
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | vent oil separator question |
Pat,
I have one on my plane because I have a wet vacuum pump. Otherwise, it
isn't necessary. In doing taxi testing I have noticed no oil coming out
of the breather vent line.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 inspection signed off
doing high speed taxi tests (and chasing small oil leaks)
-----Original Message-----
From: Pat Perry [mailto:pperryrv(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 12:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: vent oil separator question
Hi listers,
I'm curious if anyone has experience with the oil separators sold in
aircraft spuces's catalog. I purchased one for my RV-4 but after
looking at
it I'm not sure if its worth the trouble of finding space to mount it.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel overhang |
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Ed:
I ended up with about 1 1/2 inches overhang. Just keep cuttin till I
liked it.
I haven't bent my forward skin. Billy Willson has his curved (bent)
nicely.
Ever time I try & bend tin, I usually crease it. Hey, I will get Billy
over.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> For you tip up guy's...
> What is the depth of your glare shield overhang and how many have
> bent the
> fwd canopy skin
> vs. cut the skin?
>
> Ed Cole
> Maxim Integrated Products
> Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel overhang |
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Ed:
I ended up with about 1 1/2 inches overhang. Just keep cuttin till I
liked it.
I haven't bent my forward skin. Billy Willson has his curved (bent)
nicely.
Ever time I try & bend tin, I usually crease it. Hey, I will get Billy
over.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> For you tip up guy's...
> What is the depth of your glare shield overhang and how many have
> bent the
> fwd canopy skin
> vs. cut the skin?
>
> Ed Cole
> Maxim Integrated Products
> Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
Does anyone know why Van runs the fuel vent lines into the cockpit and down
through the floor? I began to wonder bcz I am installing those lines in the
cockpit right now and have no guidance at all from the plans about where to
bring the lines through the side of the airplane. I get sick (sorta) every
time I have to drill another hole through the side of the airplane. That
all made me wonder why we put those vent lines in the cockpit to begin with.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: vent oil separator question |
> I'm curious if anyone has experience with the oil separators sold in
> aircraft spuces's catalog. I purchased one for my RV-4 but after looking
> at it I'm not sure if its worth the trouble of finding space to mount it.
Mine has trapped several ounces that would otherwise have gone on
the belly. Perhaps 2-4 oz per 50 hours. I wouldn't do it again, because
some oil gets thru the seperator, so I have to wash the belly anyway.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit?
Thread-Index: Ab/7/afF3Er66tDISTasRFkN9NeGtgAAAoxw
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
Steve,
I feel your pain, as I ran them just recently. I too spent hours
figuring out where to drill the holes with the airport engineering crew.
I ended up running the vent lines through the fuselage forward and
around the tank attach brackets and up along the vertical rib in the
fuse of my -6. If you need some pictures, I can email them to you.
Running the vent lines is just one area of building these planes that
you just have to get creative. Mine came out pretty clean looking. A
friend of mine who helped me rivet just ordered his -9 tail at OSH...he
told me that on the -9 fuse they are prepunching the fuel line
penetration holes to standardize fuel systems. Good idea.
I did wonder while I was doing the vent lines why they couldn't run to
the wingtip as many certified airplanes have them...
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RealMed Corporation
www.realmed.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen J. Soule [mailto:SSoule(at)pfclaw.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 3:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit?
Does anyone know why Van runs the fuel vent lines into the cockpit and
down
through the floor? I began to wonder bcz I am installing those lines in
the
cockpit right now and have no guidance at all from the plans about where
to
bring the lines through the side of the airplane. I get sick (sorta)
every
time I have to drill another hole through the side of the airplane.
That
all made me wonder why we put those vent lines in the cockpit to begin
with.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re:Inspection Report |
Around the first of the year someone posted their inspection report they use.
I remember how good I thought it was. Please Advise, Thanks reply to
cps7185(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Engine monitor |
In a message dated 7/29/00 3:01:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bertrv6(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I would like to hear your comments on the EIS
monitor, or the Rocky Mount unit. Which is the
best for the price.. >>
I have been extremely happy with my EIS system in the 40 hours that I have
flown so far. It is the most bang for the buck of any system that I looked at.
Bernie Kerr, 6A, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
> >but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
> >dimmer or switch?
IMHO, beauty is not the number one consideration. I wired panel lights by
hopping from one to the next. That is, fuel ga at bottom up to oil T then
up to oil P. At top of panel I gathered several lighting wires into one
butt connector say 4 into one end and 3 into the other. Then, with the 3 I
added a fourth that runs to the power (dimmer).
If you want to put power, for example, to 5 wires put 3 in one end of butt
connector and 2 in the other along with the power lead. The only reason I
can think of for a terminal block would be if wires needed to be undone
often - or to change center of gravity :-)
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
In a message dated 8/1/00 4:54:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com
writes:
<<
Does anyone know why Van runs the fuel vent lines into the cockpit and down
through the floor? >>
Just a guess here, but I suspect that the big up and over bend on the fuel
vent line acts to minimize possible fuel loss during negative g maneuvers. I
saw a guy doing barrel rolls one day in a Glasair and he vented fuel
from the wingtips every time he went inverted.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil cooler hookup update |
What I don't understand in all this talk is which is the cooler input?
Another builder told me how and says his always runs too cool even in hot
(105+) wx seen often at SCK.
I think I did mine from between mags port to bottom of vertically mounted
(on back baffle) oil cooler.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
In a message dated 8/1/00 5:06:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, SSoule(at)pfclaw.com
writes:
<< Does anyone know why Van runs the fuel vent lines into the cockpit and down
through the floor? >>
Steve,
You have to have a very high spot in the vent line. The wing has so little
dihedral that you can not vent them at the tip. There might be a way to run
them up the firewall ( engineside), but you still have to get them from the
tank to the front of the firewall. That leaves only two options that I can
think of now. One is thru the cockpit and the other is outside the fuselage.
Having the vent line in the cockpit compared to pressurise fuel lines
downstream of the boost pump is of lot more concern IMHO.
I would be very reluctant to change the fuel system in anyway without
"knowing" that what I was doing is a proven concept!!
Bernie Kerr, 6A 40 hours, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
At Oshkosh the other day a friend told me that someone at Van's (Scott McD?)
had said that the best sound proofing is a good set of noise cancelling
headsets.
Having fought noise transmission once, I found out that two things are done:
1: Close any openings sound might pass through.
2: Build a high density wall - lead or cheaper, concrete.
For the airplane only #1 is good as weight is bad, no? I suspect much of
what is sold for this purpose has little effect and high cost.
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
Subject: | Re: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
>
>Does anyone know why Van runs the fuel vent lines into the cockpit and down
>through the floor? I began to wonder bcz I am installing those lines in the
>cockpit right now and have no guidance at all from the plans about where to
>bring the lines through the side of the airplane. I get sick (sorta) every
>time I have to drill another hole through the side of the airplane. That
>all made me wonder why we put those vent lines in the cockpit to begin with.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, VT
>
Well, since you want to run the vent line higher than the tank and
then down to below the fuselage, where else could they go??
If you simply ran the vent lines down below the wing I believe you'd
run the risk of draining a large amount of fuel should you slip the
aircraft.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
Council Member, Snohomish Indian Tribe
http://members.home.net/ammeterj
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
Steve,
While you would have to ask Van to make sure I suspect it has something to
do with the aerobatic capabilities of the aircraft. You have to have that
big upward loop so that when the aircraft is inverted you don't loose all
the fuel overboard. If you are building an -8 there should be a small hole
in the skin right where the bulkhead fitting goes...at least there was in
mine......I think...
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List (E-mail)"
>Subject: RV-List: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit?
>Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 16:32:01 -0400
>
>
>Does anyone know why Van runs the fuel vent lines into the cockpit and down
>through the floor? I began to wonder bcz I am installing those lines in
>the
>cockpit right now and have no guidance at all from the plans about where to
>bring the lines through the side of the airplane. I get sick (sorta) every
>time I have to drill another hole through the side of the airplane. That
>all made me wonder why we put those vent lines in the cockpit to begin
>with.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington, VT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCN44257(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
Yes
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Subject: | RE: MicroAir (was RST intercom for sale) |
I saw the forth coming MicroAir models at OSH. I believe the new one has a
voice activated intercom. The literature is around here somewhere. They
have a transponder that is the same shape and size too. Both are available
within a year, I was told. I plan on using both in my RV-8.
At last, I made a definitive panel related decision!! (For now...)
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
Pat Perry wrote:
Rick,
Keep in mind the microair is a pushbutton intercom not voice activated. I
just went over the schematics for the microair and noticed this, I had been
assuming it was a typical voice activated. I just might get a seperate
intercom for mine to avoid the extra switch on the stick.
Just thought I'd mention this because it caught me by suprise.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004645836@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Tue,
01 Aug 2000 18:24:21.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: Engine Ground Testing: Redlining CHTs |
Hmm. Well that's an interesting thought. I'll double check the RMI manual to
make sure
we're talking C, not F.
My mechanic said it was simply impossible to get to redline w/in 1 minute of starting,
so I'm
almost certain it is the gauges (thank goodness). I suspect I used the wrong connectors
between the CHT cable and the RMI monitor. I hope to check this tomorrow. Will
let the
list know in case somebody else has a similar problem.
Tom, thanks for thinking about my problem with me --- I really appreciate it.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, just weighed it at 1019 (w/ 0-360 & metal prop)
> Hi Clay
>
> After I wrote this morning, I had another thought. Are you sure you are
> reading temperature in centigrade. The temps you lists would not be unusual
> if they were Fahrenheit. I get about 280F while taxiing out after 5 to 10
> minutes.
>
> let me know what you find out!
>
> Tom
>
>
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Vacation Time-Unsubscribe |
Time for a short vacation. unsubscribe.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: vent oil separator question |
In a message dated 8/1/00 11:13:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
pperryrv(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I'm curious if anyone has experience with the oil separators sold in
aircraft spuces's catalog. I purchased one for my RV-4 but after looking at
it I'm not sure if its worth the trouble of finding space to mount it. >>
The $40 one works great if you do the mod to install stainless steel pot
scrubber pads. It gives the vapor something to condense on. Check the
archives for details. Somebody said that they didn't get any oil on the
belly during taxi testing. Just wait till you get it in the air making some
serious power and you'll be singing a different tune. IMO, every bit of muck
you can keep off the belly is worth whatever small price these things cost.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate |
> 1. In equivalent sizes S&W cools better than
> Positech.
> Also a good source for 9 row S&W or Niagra would be
> great to find.
> Esten Spears, 8AQ, 80922, Fuse
I spoke with the owner of Pacific Oil Cooler Service
in his booth at Oshkosh. He went into detail on how
the various coolers were constructed and which
features were preferable. One shocker--SW and Niagra
are NOT the same although their name is often used
interchangably. He told me to buy the SW and that
he'd beat anybody's price (Grain of salt taken). His
number is 18008667335.
Rob Miller
80153 Finishing
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
Subject: | Re: HVLP vs. Conventional Spray Guns |
Hmm, interesting. I couldn't find the info you referred to but I *have*
used both HVLP and "regular" spray guns and I know I used (and cleaned up
overspray from) a LOT more than an additional 4%-6% when using a high
pressure gun. I think something might be unusual about the way they
measured the results (like they sprayed the inside of a box or something).
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
>
> While researching paints, I found this study that Dupont did on HVLP vs.
> conventional guns.
> http://partners.dupont.com/Finishes/webpub.nsf?OpenDatabase under
> "Equipment" and then "07/21/1999____HVLP Spray Gun Study"
>
> Very interesting read. The bottom line.....HVLP only increases transfer
> efficiency (a measurement of the amount of paint that is deposited on the
> desired surface, divided by the amount that was sprayed. The calculation
is
> normally done on a paint solids basis) by 4% to 6%.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
Just finished inventorying my -6 finish kit. Such a good feeling to see
very little aluminum in the box. Kit arrived almost two weeks early for
some reason. Was surprised to see that the air intake is already mounted to
the bottom of cowling. Also, fiberglass gear leg fairings came standard.
The only thing backordered was the wheelpants. That works out ok because I
am trying to get a set of George O's new wheelpants with the built in
bulkhead to keep stuff from getting in the aft section of the wheelpant.
For those interested, the frieght charge to Oklahoma was $276. My neighbors
want the box when I'm done. They said just add a liner and it would make a
dandy above ground swimming pool!!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate |
Had a similar dialogue. The name that goes with one of the two is
Harrison((??) I think.
He also seemed to have a good story and deal on "overhauling/rebuilding"
existing oil coolers. I was impressed enough that I suggested to my friend
who is also building an RV6 and has a SW from an older Mooney that he
consider having this guy take a look at it. Seemed to know well what he was
talking about (but then again, most anyone probably could have impressed me
in this area ;-) )
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "RE Miller" <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate
>
>
> > 1. In equivalent sizes S&W cools better than
> > Positech.
> > Also a good source for 9 row S&W or Niagra would be
> > great to find.
> > Esten Spears, 8AQ, 80922, Fuse
>
> I spoke with the owner of Pacific Oil Cooler Service
> in his booth at Oshkosh. He went into detail on how
> the various coolers were constructed and which
> features were preferable. One shocker--SW and Niagra
> are NOT the same although their name is often used
> interchangably. He told me to buy the SW and that
> he'd beat anybody's price (Grain of salt taken). His
> number is 18008667335.
>
> Rob Miller
> 80153 Finishing
>
> Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
> http://invites.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Cottrell <tech2k(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Van's Homecoming |
Hi everyone,
I have yet to completely purchase the quickbuild or the tail kit, however
have purchased the preview plans and a couple of other things... I have
been advised to go up to Aurora for the homecoming in September.
Is there anyone from the San Francisco Bay area, (or Southern California
area that will need to be stopping for fuel around the Northern part of
California) that has an empty seat that wants to split expenses?
Room/Fuel/Car if needed, etc..
Please either E-Mail me directly at tech2k(at)pacbell.net or get a hold of me
some other way.
Thank you very much,
Kenneth R. Cottrell
248 Pamela Drive #24
Mountain View, CA 94040
(650) 906-4029 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airbatix(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
steve,
i am at same point, and i am with you, and i also own a cessna 150
aerobat...often go inverted, and never spill fuel...intuitively, there must
be a better way to vent these tanks than to bring potential fuel or fuel
vapors back into the cockpit or near the engine exhaust...in the absence of a
better idea, i'll do it "van's way"...but i have a few more weeks to figure
this out...
thanx
paul montgomery
rv6a---ready for final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Cowl Measurements, was: finish kit |
> Just finished inventorying my -6 finish kit. Such a good feeling to
> see
> very little aluminum in the box. Kit arrived almost two weeks early
> for some reason.
Hey Jerry,
You have all sorts of good news! Chin scoop is mounted, arrived
early... Congratulations!
My finish kit is promised for 9 October - maybe I'll get it early too
(X fingers and toes).
Now that you have it, I've been meaning to get a post out here to ask
about the height of the bottom cowl against the skin.
I'm not quite, but close to, ready to rivet the bottom/side skins on
but want to cut the NACA vent holes first - seems like it will be
easier with the skin off the frame.
I also want to stow my hinge pin in the scoop, so I need to position
the hole accurately based on the joint line between the cowl halves.
If you could just make some measurements for me, that'd be great. Say,
from the main longeron? Anybody else who has whatever style cowl
they're shipping now please chime in.
Have fun with that finish kit!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
In a message dated 8/1/00 12:35:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< but I swore I'd never buy tampons again after the divorce... >>
........how about disposable baby diapers?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I think anti-siffen.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
> Does anyone know why Van runs the fuel vent lines into the cockpit
> and down
> through the floor?
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Subject: | Flight Planning Link... |
I found this GREAT site with a bunch of FREE flight planning and weather
stuff... It has printable sectionals for free also...
http://aeroplanner.com
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate |
>
>Had a similar dialogue. The name that goes with one of the two is
>Harrison((??) I think.
>
>He also seemed to have a good story and deal on "overhauling/rebuilding"
>existing oil coolers. I was impressed enough that I suggested to my friend
>who is also building an RV6 and has a SW from an older Mooney that he
>consider having this guy take a look at it. Seemed to know well what he was
>talking about (but then again, most anyone probably could have impressed me
>in this area ;-) )
>
>James
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "RE Miller" <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:46 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate
>
>
> >
> >
> > > 1. In equivalent sizes S&W cools better than
> > > Positech.
> > > Also a good source for 9 row S&W or Niagra would be
> > > great to find.
> > > Esten Spears, 8AQ, 80922, Fuse
> >
> > I spoke with the owner of Pacific Oil Cooler Service
> > in his booth at Oshkosh. He went into detail on how
> > the various coolers were constructed and which
> > features were preferable. One shocker--SW and Niagra
> > are NOT the same although their name is often used
> > interchangably. He told me to buy the SW and that
> > he'd beat anybody's price (Grain of salt taken). His
> > number is 18008667335.
> >
> > Rob Miller
> > 80153 Finishing
I had a similar visit with this guy at Copperstate last year. The Niagara
and Stewart Warner are NOT identical, but much closer than a Positech and
either of the other two. In his opinion, which is backed by being in this
business for a LONG time, the Positech coolers are completely unsuited for
use in an aircraft. I have one, and think they are superbly constructed and
robust, but it's obvious they won't pass as much air as the other coolers.
Mine does work, but gets "heat soaked" after a long climb and takes forever
to bring the temp down. So, I may install the Niagara (from Van's) that I
have still in the box and see what happens. Oh, and I'm gonna move that "oil
to cooler" hose down to the "correct" port!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004659802@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
02 Aug 2000 07:56:20.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
In a message dated 8/1/00 12:35:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< but I swore I'd never buy tampons again after the divorce... >>
........how about disposable baby diapers?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I think anti-siffen.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
> Does anyone know why Van runs the fuel vent lines into the cockpit
> and down
> through the floor?
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, VT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate |
>
>Had a similar dialogue. The name that goes with one of the two is
>Harrison((??) I think.
>
>He also seemed to have a good story and deal on "overhauling/rebuilding"
>existing oil coolers. I was impressed enough that I suggested to my friend
>who is also building an RV6 and has a SW from an older Mooney that he
>consider having this guy take a look at it. Seemed to know well what he was
>talking about (but then again, most anyone probably could have impressed me
>in this area ;-) )
>
>James
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "RE Miller" <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:46 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooling - RV8 - 200HP - Hot Climate
>
>
> >
> >
> > > 1. In equivalent sizes S&W cools better than
> > > Positech.
> > > Also a good source for 9 row S&W or Niagra would be
> > > great to find.
> > > Esten Spears, 8AQ, 80922, Fuse
> >
> > I spoke with the owner of Pacific Oil Cooler Service
> > in his booth at Oshkosh. He went into detail on how
> > the various coolers were constructed and which
> > features were preferable. One shocker--SW and Niagra
> > are NOT the same although their name is often used
> > interchangably. He told me to buy the SW and that
> > he'd beat anybody's price (Grain of salt taken). His
> > number is 18008667335.
> >
> > Rob Miller
> > 80153 Finishing
I had a similar visit with this guy at Copperstate last year. The Niagara
and Stewart Warner are NOT identical, but much closer than a Positech and
either of the other two. In his opinion, which is backed by being in this
business for a LONG time, the Positech coolers are completely unsuited for
use in an aircraft. I have one, and think they are superbly constructed and
robust, but it's obvious they won't pass as much air as the other coolers.
Mine does work, but gets "heat soaked" after a long climb and takes forever
to bring the temp down. So, I may install the Niagara (from Van's) that I
have still in the box and see what happens. Oh, and I'm gonna move that "oil
to cooler" hose down to the "correct" port!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCN44257(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
I would guess anything that will absorb moisture would work. Some diapers
have exterior linings to prevent moisture from passing through the outer
layer. That may hinder moisture absorption. The person I know that used this
homemade dryer used the cheapest napkins he could find. Get the girl friend
or neighbor lady to make the purchase for you. Waded paper towel may also
work. At any rate put the dryer at the end of a hose and not directly at the
compressor. This will give the moisture a chance to condense in the hose.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: =?UTF-8?Q?Re: RV6-List: Official Usage Guideline [Plea? |
=?UTF-8?Q?se Read] [Monthly Posting]?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Oil cooler hookup update - flight test data RV4 |
I believe you want the oil output from the engine to run to the bottom
i.e. the lowest port in the oil cooler. Feeding oil from the bottom will
prevent the heat exchanger from becoming air bound. You want the cooler full
of oil when working. The top outlet from the cooler runs to the engine
return. As you described, as per the Lycoming literature, the center port
between the mags is the engine oil outlet. ( at least it is this way on the
O-360.
I'll offer up the following based on my recent flight experience with my
RV4. I am running a Sport Aero, fuel injected, O-360, constant speed prop
equipped with a Sam James plenum chamber. The oil cooler is mounted and
ducted directly off the rear of # 4 cylinder.
Initially, I had constructed an oil cooler slide door arrangement that
provided 6 5/8" diameter holes between the plenum chamber and the oil cooler
ducting. This is approximately 2.25 square inches. The standard 3" round oil
duct would provide about 7 square inches. In this configuration, I was
running 220 to 225 degree oil with ambient temperatures of 85F at cruise.
The oil trended hotter when running at slower than cruise speed. I was not
comfortable running this hot. I had a quick consult with Bart LaBlonde -
Sport Aero who suggested 210F as a Max oil temp target.
I then opened up the area between the plenum and the oil cooler duct to
provide for 4.25 square inches of opening. This was about a 70% increase.
Subsequent flights at 65F ambient yielded oil temps in cruise of 170F. I had
to close the oil door partially to get the oil temp back up to 180F. At 85F
ambient, oil temps have been running at 190F in cruise with the oil door
wide open. Slowing down in the pattern or doing slow flight increases the oil
temp to 200 to 210 with 85F ambient.
I have again increased the opening about another square inch, so now
there is a max opening of 5.25 to 5.5 square inches. I have not test flown
the aircraft in this configuration yet. The 4.25 inch opening was probably
OK for here in the East. I decided I wanted to provide a little more margin
for hotter ambient temps. You do have to add "Open oil cooler door for
landing" to the checklist as the oil heats up at slower speeds. I have
achieved my equivalent opening through a number of smaller holes. One big
hole would provide less air resistance than the group of equivalent smaller
holes (less circumference to the area) I am not sure how the static air
pressure in the plenum chamber would compare to a conventional baffling
setup. I suspect it might be higher than a standard setup. Less air
pressure under the cowl would require more oil cooler area opening. This is
evident on my airplane when slowing down. A decrease in speed, decreases the
air pressure in the plenum with a subsequent rise in the oil temperature.
With this being said, I would not recommend reducing the oil cooling ducting
below 3" with standard baffling.
Tom Brown RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Lots of new goodies . . . |
We've added quite a few new goodies which I won't list here
except for one item . . . we've checked out a dozen or so
sample tools from various sources trying to replace the
discontinued AMP Service Tool II. It did a nice job on
both open-barrel D-sub pins -AND- the white plastic nylon
connectors from AMP and Molex that are popular with the
Whelan et. als. Best part was that it didn't cost an arm
and a leg.
We've selected a tool that does a nice job on the full range
of pins from the 20 AWG D-sub pins up through the .093"
pins used in the larger Molex connectors. Our stocking
order has been placed so we can take orders for the tool now.
Check out this and other additions to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/whatsnew.html
-and-
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Subject: | Neat Egress Tool |
Found a kinda neat egress tool for $24.95
Check site at:
http://www.tft.com/products/res-q-rench/
Please - info only.
No "to egress tool or not to egress tool" wars...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Hi Cliff...
Here are some RV-9A web links:
Steven Curran - http://members.tripod.com/~s.curran/
Chris Heitman - http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
Steven and Mary Wessel - http://web.tampabay.rr.com/rv9a/
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cliff Begnaud
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 8:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: Introduction
I do have a favor to ask; would those of you building a 9 that have a web
site (or know of someone who does), please send me the link?
Regards,
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Aborted Oshkosh trip |
I had planned to arrive at OSH mid-day on Saturday, so I could make Van's
dinner, and the RV-8 get together Sunday morning. Well, the stack of cards
came crashing down early Saturday morning when my mother-in-law passed
away. I went straight to Green Bay to be with my wife. I did manage to
get ahold of Tom Green, so he should have been able to give my dinner
ticket to someone else.
I was looking forward to meeting a bunch of you, but it just wasn't meant
to be. Maybe next year I can make it.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Cowl Measurements, was: finish kit |
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Mike:
I left the top cowl as my referance fitting line after sandding it flat.
Then fit the lower cowl to it.
I had already installed the vents in the side skins & there were off
about 1/4 inch from each other.
I have 6 scales, they must be off.
So I got to go with the pins up front. What i am trying to get at is I
would leave them till last till the cowling is nailed if you want the
pins to go through the vents. Just do it before the top skin goes on.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
snipped========
> I also want to stow my hinge pin in the scoop, so I need to position
> the hole accurately based on the joint line between the cowl halves.
>
> If you could just make some measurements for me, that'd be great.
> Say,
> from the main longeron? Anybody else who has whatever style cowl
> they're shipping now please chime in.
>
> Have fun with that finish kit!
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
A/S sells some sound proofing material that can be purchased by the yard at
varying thicknesses. The Orndorff (sp?) tapes show a way to use this (with
a covering a aluminum foil) on the inside of the firewall, which I plan on
doing. Another tape (it may be his "upholstery finishing" tape, I'm not
sure) shows a technique of cutting a 2 or 3 inch by 12 inch strip of this
stuff and adhering it (via spray adhesive) the the skins behind the seats,
one strip per skin. This sort of dampens out "metalic"/"tincanning" types
of sounds. Not having tried any of this, this is what I'm planning on doing
and I went ahead and got the material from Aircraft Spruce.
Rick Jory, RV8A QB
-----Original Message-----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cabin Noise
>
>At Oshkosh the other day a friend told me that someone at Van's (Scott
McD?)
>had said that the best sound proofing is a good set of noise cancelling
>headsets.
>
>Having fought noise transmission once, I found out that two things are
done:
>
>1: Close any openings sound might pass through.
>
>2: Build a high density wall - lead or cheaper, concrete.
>
>For the airplane only #1 is good as weight is bad, no? I suspect much of
>what is sold for this purpose has little effect and high cost.
>
>Hal Kempthorne
>2578 Elliot Court
>Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
>408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
>RV6a N7HK 99%
>1965 Debonair for sale!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Trip - Long |
In a message dated 08/01/2000 10:53:56 PM Central Daylight Time,
jclark(at)conterra.com writes:
<< They were hoping to get a picture next to the 1/2 scale (3/4 scale???) "Lil
Beautiful Doll" metal Mustang scale replica and the *real* "Beautiful Doll".
Don't know if they did but it would make a GREAT photo!!
>>
The 3/4 scale mustang was a stewart Mustang. The company is under new
ownership though
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Canopy Rivets AACQ-4-4 |
I am getting ready to rivet the canopy and the plans call for AACQ-4-4
rivets, which I can not find the bag number they are supposed to be in. I
did find some rivets that I am sure are them in another bag that I can not
confirm the contents. These rivets are aluminum counter sunk with aluminum
shafts. They are also 1/8 diameter and about 1/4 inch long. Does this
sound like the right ones?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Forgot about this? |
When drill the canopy to the top of the canopy frame, these holes must also
be counter sunk. Is there any special way to counter sink these directly
into the canopy, or just do it with a standard counter sink. This worked
ok on the landing light lenses.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
>I would guess anything that will absorb moisture would work. Some diapers
>have exterior linings to prevent moisture from passing through the outer
>layer. That may hinder moisture absorption. The person I know that used
this
>homemade dryer used the cheapest napkins he could find. Get the girl friend
>or neighbor lady to make the purchase for you. Waded paper towel may also
>work. At any rate put the dryer at the end of a hose and not directly at the
>compressor. This will give the moisture a chance to condense in the hose.
Getting the moisture out of compressed air is a pretty rudimentary
science. There are a number of things you can do to "wet" air to
make it give up disolved water molecules. Contact with LOTS of
surface area (like the fiber filters cited) will take out SOME
moisture . . . but once it becomes saturated, it's not going to
take any more out. Same thing with hygroscopic materials like
silica gels, kitty-litter, etc. The hygroscopic traps need to
be periodically regenrated by baking the absorbtion medium
in an oven at 250F + degrees.
Having wrestled with the wet air problems in two facilities
I'll have to suggest that COOLING the compressed air is the
BEST way to get it dry. Our large volume air distribution
system at Electro-Mech took the warm compressed air right out
of the compressor through a fan cooled heat exchanger. The
inner tubes were sloped so that water condensing on inside walls
of the exchanger ran downhill into a trap at the low point.
There was an automatic drain at the bottom of the main storage
tank. This exchanger trap and tank drain removed the vast majority
of air ingested. The next step was to slope all horizontal runs
of distribution piping downward at about 2" per 10' so that
water condensing out on piping was swept toward far end where
there were more traps with drains. Branches off the main distribution
were T-connections pointing UP were a 6" upward stub made a
u-turn with two elbows before dropping to the factory floor.
This prevented water lying on the bottom of the distribution
pipe from being swept into the final distribution drop line.
When the air needs to VERY dry, you cool it as much below room
temperature as possible. I had an ice bath in one lab that
surrounded about 50" of 3/4" copper tubing. Again, down-sloped
tubing feeds a lowpoint trap and drain. The final step was
a hygroscopic filter that would push the moisture content down
to a few milligrams per liter at 100 psi.
For higher volume flows like for spray painting, log runs
of distribution piping at room temperature (air conditioning
in your shop does wonders for drying air in the lines) is pretty
inexpensive and easy to build. You need to use copper line for
this . . . plastic is okay pressure wise but doesn't cool the
contents fast enough to precipitate out the water. You can build
a dryer out of 3/4" copper and zig-zag a run on the wall for
as much length as you care to buy and assemble . . . I'd
suggest 40' as a minimum. Space off the wall and blow ambient
air over it with a fan. Put a low point trap and a good riser
from the trap to your supply line and you'll be surprised how
much water you can drain from the trap every hour.
One builder I met at a fly-in told me about a dryer he made
with an ordinary refrigerator. He build a loosely coiled
copper "still" trap from 100' of soft copper. He installed
it in the cold-box volume of the reefer and put some circulating
fans inside. With the fans running and the box set for max cold,
he was able spray very water sensitive paints in his Houston TX
shop with outside humidities running in the 60s . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Forgot about this? |
Jim,
When I did mine I just used the microstop with the standard piloted
countersink on my Makita electric drill. It worked out great and I was able
to complete my canopy with no defects or cracks. AS everyone has mentioned
before, the real secret is to make sure the plexiglass is warm (at least 70)
when you do it.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Couple more hoses and engine start time
>From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Forgot about this?
>Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 14:41:38 -0400
>
>
>When drill the canopy to the top of the canopy frame, these holes must also
>be counter sunk. Is there any special way to counter sink these directly
>into the canopy, or just do it with a standard counter sink. This worked
>ok on the landing light lenses.
>
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
>(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
Apparently, there is good news for those of us wanting a "light" IFR
airplane. This question is addressed in the archives but without a
definitive answer. Since I am just starting my instrument rating, I
discussed GPS IFR with my CFII who is up to date with this issue. The
bottom line is that a GPS, approved for enroute, terminal, and TSO C129a
certified for non-precision approach, permits you to do IFR without
anything else, period. I'm told that the number of GPS approaches
grows every day and, in fact, a GPS approach was just added to the
airport I fly out of. While you cannot do precision approaches, you
will just have slightly higher minimums. If that is not an issue, you
can simply install a unit like the GNC 420, a CDI, the usual gyros, and
a transponder.
This will fit my plans perfectly, and I suspect others, as well.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
02:00:31 PM
Repost with title change
bvondane(at)atmel.com@matronics.com on 08/02/2000 12:52:28 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Introduction
Hi Cliff...
Here are some RV-9A web links:
Steven Curran - http://members.tripod.com/~s.curran/
Chris Heitman - http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
Steven and Mary Wessel - http://web.tampabay.rr.com/rv9a/
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cliff Begnaud
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 8:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: Introduction
I do have a favor to ask; would those of you building a 9 that have a web
site (or know of someone who does), please send me the link?
Regards,
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Canopy Rivets AACQ-4-4 |
Jim,
The rivets are aluminum - you can feel the weight difference from the steel
one - use a magnet if in question. We had to look around for them also.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (at the hangar)
Niantic, CT (Westerly)
>From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Canopy Rivets AACQ-4-4
>Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 14:38:53 -0400
>
>
>I am getting ready to rivet the canopy and the plans call for AACQ-4-4
>rivets, which I can not find the bag number they are supposed to be in. I
>did find some rivets that I am sure are them in another bag that I can not
>confirm the contents. These rivets are aluminum counter sunk with aluminum
>shafts. They are also 1/8 diameter and about 1/4 inch long. Does this
>sound like the right ones?
>
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
>(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Introduction |
Cliff & Patti,
Welcome aboard - We saw the 9A at Van's in North Plains and now Dave is
thinking how neat it would be to have an 8A & 9A.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (at the hangar - but still wiring)
Niantic, CT (Westerly)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | : Canopy Rivets AACQ-4-4 |
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Van's catalog p 47 calls out the blind rivets.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> I am getting ready to rivet the canopy and the plans call for
> AACQ-4-4
> rivets, which I can not find the bag number they are supposed to be
> in. I
> did find some rivets that I am sure are them in another bag that I
> can not
> confirm the contents. These rivets are aluminum counter sunk with
> aluminum
> shafts. They are also 1/8 diameter and about 1/4 inch long. Does
> this
> sound like the right ones?
>
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
> (570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
>
>
> The bottom line is that a GPS, approved for enroute, terminal, and TSO C129a
> certified for non-precision approach, permits you to do IFR without anything
> else, period.
>
I have a Garmin GNC 300XL GPS / COMM that meets the TSO C129 certified for
non-precision approach specs.
I asked the question about IFR on the GPS alone and the consensus between the
FAA FSDO people and the Garmin people is that it may NOT be used as a sole
navigation reference for IFR flight (even enroute). They described it as
"supplemental" to traditional VOR receivers.
If I ever decide to upgrade my panel to IFR, I have been under the impression
that I would need to add a VOR receiver.
Please correct me if I am wrong. It would be good news to me.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Canopy Rivets AACQ-4-4 |
In a message dated 8/2/00 3:12:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jcimino(at)epix.net
writes:
<< I am getting ready to rivet the canopy and the plans call for AACQ-4-4
rivets, which I can not find the bag number they are supposed to be in. I
did find some rivets that I am sure are them in another bag that I can not
confirm the contents. These rivets are aluminum counter sunk with aluminum
shafts. They are also 1/8 diameter and about 1/4 inch long. Does this
sound like the right ones? >>
Jim, this sounds right. One way to tell is that these rivets are very soft
when you pull 'em, so try one.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Cowl Measurements, was: finish kit |
In a message dated 8/2/00 2:25:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
<< So I got to go with the pins up front. What i am trying to get at is I
would leave them till last till the cowling is nailed if you want the
pins to go through the vents. Just do it before the top skin goes on.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com >>
Don is correct regarding when to place the vents if you wanna incorporate
them into your cowl securing scheme. I placed mine according to plans, and
they are 3/8" or so too low to use 'em as hinge pin attachment points. The
thing is, I'm not sure if they are too low, or if I trimmed the top cowl too
much. The world wonders..
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to be
used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that it
clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed. It
need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed. If
you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
>From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:51:26 -0500
>
>
> >
> >
> > The bottom line is that a GPS, approved for enroute, terminal, and TSO
>C129a
> > certified for non-precision approach, permits you to do IFR without
>anything
> > else, period.
> >
>
>I have a Garmin GNC 300XL GPS / COMM that meets the TSO C129 certified for
>non-precision approach specs.
>I asked the question about IFR on the GPS alone and the consensus between
>the
>FAA FSDO people and the Garmin people is that it may NOT be used as a sole
>navigation reference for IFR flight (even enroute). They described it as
>"supplemental" to traditional VOR receivers.
>
>If I ever decide to upgrade my panel to IFR, I have been under the
>impression
>that I would need to add a VOR receiver.
>
>Please correct me if I am wrong. It would be good news to me.
>
>-Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Do you think a hand held VOR transceiver qualified as an alternative means of
navigation?
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
> that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to be
> used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that it
> clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed. It
> need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
> an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed. If
> you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
> the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
> RV-8A
>
> >From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
> >Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:51:26 -0500
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > The bottom line is that a GPS, approved for enroute, terminal, and TSO
> >C129a
> > > certified for non-precision approach, permits you to do IFR without
> >anything
> > > else, period.
> > >
> >
> >I have a Garmin GNC 300XL GPS / COMM that meets the TSO C129 certified for
> >non-precision approach specs.
> >I asked the question about IFR on the GPS alone and the consensus between
> >the
> >FAA FSDO people and the Garmin people is that it may NOT be used as a sole
> >navigation reference for IFR flight (even enroute). They described it as
> >"supplemental" to traditional VOR receivers.
> >
> >If I ever decide to upgrade my panel to IFR, I have been under the
> >impression
> >that I would need to add a VOR receiver.
> >
> >Please correct me if I am wrong. It would be good news to me.
> >
> >-Glenn Gordon
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
It might. That one depends a little on the inspector you work with.
Normally an inspector wants to see it physically installed.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A...bout to be finished
>From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 18:29:25 -0500
>
>
>Do you think a hand held VOR transceiver qualified as an alternative means
>of
>navigation?
>
>Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> >
> > Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says
>is
> > that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> > system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities
>to be
> > used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that
>it
> > clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed.
>It
> > need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you
>have
> > an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed.
>If
> > you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there
>except
> > the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > Das Fed
> > RV-8A
> >
> > >From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
> > >Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:51:26 -0500
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > The bottom line is that a GPS, approved for enroute, terminal, and
>TSO
> > >C129a
> > > > certified for non-precision approach, permits you to do IFR without
> > >anything
> > > > else, period.
> > > >
> > >
> > >I have a Garmin GNC 300XL GPS / COMM that meets the TSO C129 certified
>for
> > >non-precision approach specs.
> > >I asked the question about IFR on the GPS alone and the consensus
>between
> > >the
> > >FAA FSDO people and the Garmin people is that it may NOT be used as a
>sole
> > >navigation reference for IFR flight (even enroute). They described it
>as
> > >"supplemental" to traditional VOR receivers.
> > >
> > >If I ever decide to upgrade my panel to IFR, I have been under the
> > >impression
> > >that I would need to add a VOR receiver.
> > >
> > >Please correct me if I am wrong. It would be good news to me.
> > >
> > >-Glenn Gordon
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: JC Whitney Strip Lights |
There is a light bulb available in local auto parts stores that might be
what you want. They have a wire loop at each end. Get some clear or white
plastic tubing wire the bulbs together in parallel and stuff them in the
tubing. Number is 561 & they are not TSO'd.
hal
----- Original Message -----
From: Norman Hunger <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 12:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: JC Whitney Strip Lights
>
> Product Report,
>
> I bought three of the 24" strip lights from JC Whitney part number TC-24-W
> for a total of $13.47 USD. I chose the white ones. These are made in the
USA
> by Vista Manufacturing. They call them Tac-Lite Strip Lighting.
>
> I had planned to put them along the edge of my glairsheild behind a yet to
> be determined edge material, probably stiffener angle material. I should
> mention that I'm planning to extend the glairsheild further back from the
> panel than Vans. I would like this to be the primary panel lighting with
> back up being two map lights on the tip up canopy frame.
>
> These strips have six small bulbs wired together and encased in a flexible
> plastic strip. The cross section of this strip is shaped in a "P" making
for
> a nice flange to glue it on.
>
> I powered one of them up on the bench and darkened my shop. I was very
> disappointed. They don't even get close to making enough light.
>
> Just to experiment further, I broke out a soldering pencil and stripped
the
> bulbs off all three of the strip lights. I twisted their wires together in
> pairs to make a long chain of 18 bulbs quite close together. I then got a
> couple of 18 gauge wires and began attaching each end of all the bulbs. I
> used a wire stripper to cut the insulation and then a knife to peel it
away
> for about 1/4 of an inch for each pair of bulbs to get continuously
soldered
> onto the feed wires. This way the bulbs only carry their own current.
>
> I stuffed the new string into the white plastic housing and fired it up.
It
> works good but now it is only 22" long. I will order a whole bunch more
and
> continue my strip. I have yet to measure it for current draw. I don't have
> to commit to this idea for quite some time. I can test further when the
> whole panel is together. I like the white plastic encasement strip. The
> light is soft yet bright enough once enough bulbs are soldered together. I
> am hoping for a very even airline look. I have several times already been
> discouraged by the large cost of high end alternatives. I am having fun
> making my own for low dough as I gear myself up to begin the Rocky
Mountain
> Engine Monitor kit I have now got sitting on my bench. BTY, the current
cost
> of this with all of the options to run it that RMI has for sale came to
> $1572 + $25 shipping USD or $2708.56 Canadian landed.
>
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
I can't speak for the US but in Canada a handheld Nav with CDI or Com does
not qualify as required equipment for IFR purposes. In fact, even a panel
mounted Nav with built in CDI (the LED type) does not satisfy the rules. An
external gauge has to be used.
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
Sent: August 2, 2000 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
Do you think a hand held VOR transceiver qualified as an alternative means
of
navigation?
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
> that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to
be
> used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that
it
> clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed.
It
> need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
> an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed.
If
> you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
> the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
> RV-8A
>
> >From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
> >Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:51:26 -0500
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > The bottom line is that a GPS, approved for enroute, terminal, and TSO
> >C129a
> > > certified for non-precision approach, permits you to do IFR without
> >anything
> > > else, period.
> > >
> >
> >I have a Garmin GNC 300XL GPS / COMM that meets the TSO C129 certified
for
> >non-precision approach specs.
> >I asked the question about IFR on the GPS alone and the consensus between
> >the
> >FAA FSDO people and the Garmin people is that it may NOT be used as a
sole
> >navigation reference for IFR flight (even enroute). They described it as
> >"supplemental" to traditional VOR receivers.
> >
> >If I ever decide to upgrade my panel to IFR, I have been under the
> >impression
> >that I would need to add a VOR receiver.
> >
> >Please correct me if I am wrong. It would be good news to me.
> >
> >-Glenn Gordon
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Sorry, but I tried that one once. The unit must be panel mounted with an
external antenna.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Glenn & Judi
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 07:29 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
> Do you think a hand held VOR transceiver qualified as an alternative means
> of
> navigation?
>
> Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> >
> > Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says
> is
> > that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> > system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities
> to be
> > used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that
> it
> > clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed.
> It
> > need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you
> have
> > an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed.
> If
> > you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there
> except
> > the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > Das Fed
> > RV-8A
> >
> > >From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
> > >Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:51:26 -0500
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > The bottom line is that a GPS, approved for enroute, terminal, and
> TSO
> > >C129a
> > > > certified for non-precision approach, permits you to do IFR without
> > >anything
> > > > else, period.
> > > >
> > >
> > >I have a Garmin GNC 300XL GPS / COMM that meets the TSO C129 certified
> for
> > >non-precision approach specs.
> > >I asked the question about IFR on the GPS alone and the consensus
> between
> > >the
> > >FAA FSDO people and the Garmin people is that it may NOT be used as a
> sole
> > >navigation reference for IFR flight (even enroute). They described it
> as
> > >"supplemental" to traditional VOR receivers.
July 26, 2000 - August 02, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-iy