RV-Archive.digest.vol-iz
August 02, 2000 - August 07, 2000
> > >
> > >If I ever decide to upgrade my panel to IFR, I have been under the
> > >impression
> > >that I would need to add a VOR receiver.
> > >
> > >Please correct me if I am wrong. It would be good news to me.
> > >
> > >-Glenn Gordon
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might climb through a
deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros, radio, xponder,
and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and clock)......right?
Baffled,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 firewall assembly
Advance, NC, USA
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
> Do you think a hand held VOR transceiver qualified as an
> alternative means of
> navigation?
>
> Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> >
> > Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All
> it says is
> > that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> > system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground
> facilities to be
> > used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we
> see that it
> > clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be
> installed. It
> > need not be on or used but it must be there and work.
[snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT |
List: I am looking to purchase my last piece for the Panel. I have all the
Analog Gauges from Vans with Electric Gyros but need a way to monitor CHT &
EGT Temps.
The monitor from Grand Rapids Technologies seems to give me what I
need at the same price of most CHT-EGT Monitors that only offer the 2 areas
of information.
Will I have to install another set of sending units that come with
Grand Rapids unit? Can the sending units for the Analog Gauges do double
duty?
Hey for about the same price I have backup systems! What say the
"Wise Ones" who have been there-done that?
Tom in Ohio (ELEC. FLAP ACTUATOR STUFF)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting |
Just did this last night. I ground the end of my Avery yoke about .090 and
it fit all but the last rivet on the smallest end. I used the no-hole yoke
for that one and came in from the end. I'm not near my shop at the moment,
so I can't verify the size of the yoke. I think it is a three inch. It
helps to have a complete set of different height sets.
George Armstrong,
Finally starting on the wings!
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 4:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Trim tab/L elevator spar riveting
>
> I can't set the rivets on the outboard half of my trim tab spar (and the
> corresponding rear elevator spar). My 2-1/2" Avery yoke is too thick, and
I
> can't figure out how to get a bucking bar with enough mass in there to use
> the gun. I'm a little leery of using the gun anyhow, because of the thin
> skin. I don't think a thin yoke would work, because it would have to
reach
> over the piano hinge.
>
> I'm looking for ideas. Is there a pop rivet that will do the job? (The
> proper rivet is the AN 426 AD3-4.) Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Jim Bower
> RV-6A (Emp)
> St. Louis, MO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Good try Larry but no-go. If you want to bust through clouds then its IFR
time.
Mike R.
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:32:56 -0400
>
>
>What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
>words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might climb through
>a
>deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros, radio, xponder,
>and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and clock)......right?
>
>Baffled,
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 firewall assembly
>Advance, NC, USA
>Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
> >
> > Do you think a hand held VOR transceiver qualified as an
> > alternative means of
> > navigation?
> >
> > Mike Robertson wrote:
> >
>
> > >
> > > Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All
> > it says is
> > > that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> > > system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground
> > facilities to be
> > > used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we
> > see that it
> > > clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be
> > installed. It
> > > need not be on or used but it must be there and work.
>[snip]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
I need some ideas. Any of you that have the Visions Microsystems panel on
board. Can you tell me where you placed you load sensor? I have all my
wires bundled together at the time. The sensor board has mounting screws.
I hate thinking about just threading the power wire through it and letting
it just hang. But I also don't want to drill any more holes through the
firewall unless I really need to.
Thanks for you ideas.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Non TSOed Turn Coordinator Problems |
Hello All,
I am looking for some feedback from those listers that have installed
and use the TC300 turn coordinator. This is the $300 unit availble from
Van's and Chief Aircraft among other places.
Mine has failed after just under a year and waranty repair is being
denied because I opened the unit up to install additinal filtering. The
unit as supplied generated enough interference to break squelch on my
Garmin 250 XL and elicit continous replies from my 320 GX transponder.
The question at hand is, have any of you had success with this unit not
generating all of these problems. I originally installed it with
shielded power wires and an LC filter in the rear connector before
breaking into the unit to install additional filtering.
I question the wisdom of spending an addional $100 to replace the DC
brush motor and once again voiding the waranty by installing the
filtering required to make the unit servicable.
Please reply to me off the list and I will compile the responses for all
to see and consider before going this route on their airplanes.
To those that are using it, have you ever noted the difference in your
radio reception noise level and the amount of time your transponder
reply light is on when the Turn Coordinator circuit breaker is in versus
out.
Thanks
Tom Olson MSEE avionics engineer
tcolson@cedar-rapids.net
N298TC, 280 hours and lovin it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>I need some ideas. Any of you that have the Visions Microsystems panel on
>board. Can you tell me where you placed you load sensor? I have all my
>wires bundled together at the time. The sensor board has mounting screws.
>I hate thinking about just threading the power wire through it and letting
>it just hang. But I also don't want to drill any more holes through the
>firewall unless I really need to.
>Thanks for you ideas.
>
I mounted it to the firewall where the alternator output wire came through
the firewall. The wire has to penetrate the firewall anyway, and the
mounting screw holes seem like a minor thing to me.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Soldering D-sub connectors |
I need help.
I'm trying (unsuccessfully) to solder a 25 pin D sub-miniature male
connector that attaches to my intercom. The problems I create include
overheating the solder lugs on the connector, causing the plastic to soften
locally which causes the pin to move out of alignment or causing the solder
lug to just disappear (!). I'm also finding it hard to solder one terminal
without inflicting damage to the adjacent wire and terminal.
I'm using a 20 watt Radio Shack soldering iron with a small point and a
large magnifying glass. I've been tinning both the #22 wire ends and the
solder lug before attempting to join them.
Is there a technique for doing this that makes is easy? Easier? Somewhat
less hard? At least possible?
I know that there are D-sub connectors with crimped terminals but I'd rather
not get into that if I can avoid it.
George
RV8 -N888GK (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Windshield Surround |
> 4) I still have not figured out how to keep fiberglass cut on the bias
from
> "necking down" when I make a layup. The stuff is like double knit.. It
just
> stretches and stretches. The downside is that the pieces I cut 2" wide
ended
> up as 1.25", etc.... Any solutions?
Answer: Don't cut it on a bias! Scott McD helped me with my windscreen layup
and he just cuts it square. The reason being that its a fairing, not a
structural part, so it doesn't have to be super strong (and will be anyway
especially if you use carbon fiber!) and those thin strips are much easier
to lay up if cut square.
I too used carbon fiber for the top piece, cut square, and am confident that
it's pretty bulletproof (of course everyone grabs it 2 seconds after I tell
them whats ok to hold onto and what's not -- sigh.)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
I've read a lot recently about people using carbon fiber on the canopy
parts. Where does one purchase this stuff and should any particular
dimension be used?
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6 slider
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Proseal- Fiberglass |
HI:
I am ready to buy the fiberglass cloth....but after
looking at the book,,,there are so many kinds, weights
weaves..etc..
What is the type I should get, to make the skirts,
or fairings? for the canopy?..
2- Is there a place I can buy the hardener, for
the proseal?..Every place I called, told me both
or nothing...(my story is I lost....the can of
hardener....I probably the only person ever to do
that....
Any information, on any of these two things
is greatly appreciated...
Bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | firesleeve on fuel pressure line? |
I used a 1/4" flex line to the firewall mounted fuel pressure sender. I was
going to order some firesleeve for it and I noticed Vans doesn't carry
sleeve that small.
Is there some reason it isn't needed on that line? I remember seeing others
with no sleeve on the pressure sending line, why not?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Carbon fiber |
In a message dated 8/2/00 10:32:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
skytop(at)corecomm.net writes:
<< I've read a lot recently about people using carbon fiber on the canopy
parts. Where does one purchase this stuff and should any particular
dimension be used?
Thanks,
Tom Barnes -6 slider >>
Aircraft Spruce carries it with their other composite supplies. I used the
medium weight cloth. One linear yard was more than enough.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
>I need some ideas. Any of you that have the Visions Microsystems panel on
>board. Can you tell me where you placed you load sensor? I have all my
>wires bundled together at the time. The sensor board has mounting screws.
>I hate thinking about just threading the power wire through it and letting
Just got finished installing mine. I decided after much thought that I would
give up my baggage well to the VM1000. I have my DPU installed on a platform on
the bottom with my RMI compass module mounted right in front. The nice thing
about this installation is that it allows me to just run all the sensor wires
right under the battery tray. It also allowed me to mount the load sensor to
the inside of the baggage well closest to the rudder peddles. This way it's at
90 degrees to the well and right in line with where my line from the alternator
pops through the firewall. It then passes through the load sensor anchored to
the baggage well and keeps on going to a hole out the other side of the baggage
well and up to my buss. I have adel clamps on ether side of the load sensor
that are anchored to the baggage well wall to keep the cable from moving about.
- Jim
RV-8AQ ( engine hoses & stuff )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
> Good try Larry but no-go. If you want to bust through clouds then its IFR
> time.
Yep, and that FAA guy in the seat next to you might actually say something
about it.....unless you threaten to toss him out the nearest window. The
fact of the matter is, we each decide what is safe when we climb into that
aircraft. If I have gyro's, the ability to use them, and a means to put me
where I want to be on an approach, be it GPS, VOR, BFL (blind freakin luck)
or whatever........unless there is a tower there, I am going to land. I
think most of you are the same way...just know your own limitations. I know
mine, and for now...they are VFR....marginal.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Unfortunately there is no such thing as 'light IFR'. Either the aircraft
(and you) is certified for IFR or it's not. In Canada though (probably the
US too), it's possible to equip the aircraft for VFR OTT (over-the-top).
This requires fewer NAV instrumentation but you need to get the VFR OTT
rating. This will enable you to go over the top of the clouds but the
requirements are that you have a sufficient 'hole' at each end of the
flight.
I haven't studied this rating in detail so please get the facts from the
proper sources in case I'm way off.
Are
RV-8 - left elevator - wings on order
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Sent: August 2, 2000 8:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might climb through a
deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros, radio, xponder,
and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and clock)......right?
Baffled,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 firewall assembly
Advance, NC, USA
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Hi Mike,
Mike, my Vm1000 amp sensor is mounted inside the cockpit on the floor of
my RV4. I just made a little triangle shaped bracket that I riveted to the
floor. I don't know the configuration or layout of your electrical system in
the RV8. You can mount the sensor anywhere along the output wire from the
alternator. If the alternator output wire doesn't penetrate the firewall, you
may be limited to mounting the sensor on the firewall side. Personally, I
think this sensor is one area that Microsystems could improve upon the
physical design.
Tom Brown RV4 flying
RV4brown(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | GPS Only IFR - VFR OTT |
I just checked the Canadian reg's and you only need one Nav and one Com plus
gyroscopic instruments for the VFR OTT rating. Sounds like this is what
you're looking for. Obviously, you're not allowed to perform IFR approaches
with this. Hopefully, you have a similar rating in the U.S. if this is what
you want.
(1) No person shall conduct a take-off in a power-driven aircraft for the
purpose of VFR OTT flight unless it is equipped with
(a) the equipment referred to in paragraphs 605.14(c) to (j); (standard VFR
equipment (Are's note))
(b) a sensitive altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure;
(c) a means of preventing malfunction caused by icing for each airspeed
indicating system;
(d) a gyroscopic direction indicator or a stabilized magnetic direction
indicator;
(e) an attitude indicator;
(f) subject to subsection (2), a turn and slip indicator or turn
coordinator;
(g) where the aircraft is to be operated within the Northern Domestic
Airspace, a means of establishing direction that is not dependent on a
magnetic source;
(h) radiocommunication equipment adequate to permit two-way communication on
the appropriate frequency; and
(i) radio navigation equipment adequate to permit the aircraft to be
navigated safely.
Are
What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might climb through a
deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros, radio, xponder,
and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and clock)......right?
Baffled,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 firewall assembly
Advance, NC, USA
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004678698@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
02 Aug 2000 20:20:03.-0700(at)matronics.com
Hi Listers,
Thanks to all of you who helped me think through the problem with reaching redline
CHTs
w/in 1 minute of engine startup. I switched two of the CHT probes and discovered
that the
cylinder temperatures are just fine, but 3 of my 4 probes are not reading correctly.
I'll dig
into my wiring --- I must have used the wrong connectors between the probes and
the RMI
monitor.
Thanks for all your help!
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Hey guys here is the link to the awards this year at Oshkosh.
Jim Baker RV-6 N699JB Bronze Lindy
Mark Cassman RV-4 N801V Outstanding Workmanship Kit Built
Randall Henderson RV-6 N6R Outstanding Workmanship Kit Built
William King RV-8 N80434 Outstanding Workmanship kit built
Paul Rosales RV-6A N628PV Outstanding Workmanship kit built
http://www.airventure.org/2000/awards/aircraft_awards.html
Congradulations on your awards, I looked at all of the planes and they are all
perfect examples of how to build RV's.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nathan dement <ndement(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Texas (Cessna Flying Center) |
Does anyone knows if there is a Cessna Pilot
Center in/at Dallas Love Field or Addision Airport.
I'm going to a seminar in that area and wanted to
continue my flying in Texas.
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004678858@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Wed,
02 Aug 2000 20:28:06.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Trip to the FSDO |
Hello Listers,
I turned in my paperwork today - finally. Now I'm in the queue to get an inspection.
I
decided to visit the FSDO instead of mailing my paperwork in to see if I could
speed up the
process --- and I think it worked.
The "officer of the day" was kind enough to look over my paperwork and fix a couple
of
items. This saved at least a week of mailing things back and forth. So the trip
was definitely
worth it. When I asked if he could "expedite" my paperwork I got a lecture ---
so don't try
that one. But he did point out that, since this is near the end of the government's
fiscal year,
most of the inspectors' big projects are finished and I should get an inspection
relatively soon.
So, if you want to move the process along you might try visiting the FSDO with
your
paperwork all filled out and hope they are willing to take a look at it while you're
there.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, preparing for the FAA dudes (or dudettes)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
So... Does this mean if I want an IFR certified panel, I have to have two
GPS's, two VOR's, or one of each? I know at least one person flying a RV-6
with a single VOR, that told me his RV is IFR certified...
Bill VonDane, Colorado
RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to be
used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that it
clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed. It
need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed. If
you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | AirVenture 2000 Congratulations |
Congradulations go out to the RV builders/flyers who
got awards at AirVenture 2000.
Outstanding Workmanship Kit Built awards:
Mark Cassman, Burnsville, MN - RV-4 (N801V)
Randall Henderson, Portland, OR - RV-6 (N6R)
Paul Rosales, Lancaster, CA - RV-6A (N628PV)
http://www.airventure.org/2000/awards/aircraft_awards.html
Special Award for Perseverance - Building and flying
an aircraft being handicapped. Also got a Bronze
Lindy.
Bruce Cruikshank & Barry Weber, Castro Valley, CA -
RV-4 (N19Z)
Bronze Lindy:
James Baker, Goodland, KS - RV-6 (N699JB)
Stan Dzik Memorial Award for Design Contribution
William Steppling, Granbury, TX - RV-6A (N69RV)
Award for: Retractable Pitot Tube
http://www.airventure.org/2000/awards/lindys_gold.html
The links should get you pointed in the right
direction.
Many of the RV's left on Saturday (29 July). I
arrived on Tuesday (25 July) and got the last RV
parking spot in the RV area.
It was nice meeting many of the RV-Listers. See you
at the Homecoming.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I hear you.
What I'm saying is, I think I've met the min. equipment requirements for
IFR. Why can't I legally descend through a cloud layer to VFR conditions
without approach equipment? It's VFR underneath, so 'ground facilities' are
not used.
I met a RV-Lister at OSH who's RV was certified for IFR late last year.
Minimal setup, similar to the one I describe (near as I can recall). He
hasn't chimed in on this topic yet, so I won't name names, but I hope he
contributes.
Not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand the rules I'm suppose
to live by.
Larry Bowen
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> Good try Larry but no-go. If you want to bust through clouds
> then its IFR
> time.
>
> Mike R.
>
> >
> >What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
> >words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might
> climb through
> >a
> >deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros,
> radio, xponder,
> >and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and clock)......right?
> >
> >Baffled,
> >
> >Larry Bowen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR - VFR OTT |
Larry,
Good to meet you at the RV Banquet. Hope you had a good time.
A Hand Held GPS isn't "legally" good for anything when talking about IFR
procedures. In reality I use mine exclusively and back it up with the VOR
on all approaches everything except ILS and localizer approaches.
If you just want to get through the clouds, get on top then fly to your
destination in VFR conditions and land VFR, then you will still probably
need a VOR. Typically, the controllers will want to know, at least, what
your first fix is going to be. In essence, that fix could be your final
destination as far as the controller is concerned. It could be a VOR, an
intersection etc. Many times you can "Pop Up" and ask the controller for a
clearance to get "VFR on top" and they might oblige you but you are still
considered to be on an IFR flight plan and all rules still apply, you're
just give flexibality in your altitude. There is lots more to this VFR on
Top stuff and FAR's cover it pretty well. But if your departure airport is
less than 1000' and 3 mile vis then you are going to have to file something
and that's going to require an initial fix. As soon as you get on top (in
the above scenario) you would cancel IFR once on top and proceed on your
merry way above the clouds in VFR conditions (assuming you're below FL180).
Apparently, in Canada this would not be legal. As far as using an enroute
approved GPS for identifying your first fix, I'm not sure if it's legal or
not to use that as your sole means of navigation without any backup.
Keep in mind, I'm just a lowly IFR pilot and not a student of the FARs. As
with anything you read on this list, verify and validate.
Mike Nellis
Plainfield, IL
RV-6 Wings http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 11:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR - VFR OTT
>
> I just checked the Canadian reg's and you only need one Nav and one Com
plus
> gyroscopic instruments for the VFR OTT rating. Sounds like this is what
> you're looking for. Obviously, you're not allowed to perform IFR
approaches
> with this. Hopefully, you have a similar rating in the U.S. if this is
what
> you want.
>
> (1) No person shall conduct a take-off in a power-driven aircraft for the
> purpose of VFR OTT flight unless it is equipped with
> (a) the equipment referred to in paragraphs 605.14(c) to (j); (standard
VFR
> equipment (Are's note))
> (b) a sensitive altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure;
> (c) a means of preventing malfunction caused by icing for each airspeed
> indicating system;
> (d) a gyroscopic direction indicator or a stabilized magnetic direction
> indicator;
> (e) an attitude indicator;
> (f) subject to subsection (2), a turn and slip indicator or turn
> coordinator;
> (g) where the aircraft is to be operated within the Northern Domestic
> Airspace, a means of establishing direction that is not dependent on a
> magnetic source;
> (h) radiocommunication equipment adequate to permit two-way communication
on
> the appropriate frequency; and
> (i) radio navigation equipment adequate to permit the aircraft to be
> navigated safely.
>
>
> Are
>
>
> What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
> words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might climb through
a
> deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros, radio,
xponder,
> and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and clock)......right?
>
> Baffled,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 firewall assembly
> Advance, NC, USA
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
I used a 6' long piece of hydronic baseboard heating tubing, it is basically
a piece of 3/4 copper pipe with hundreds of aluminum fins on it. It is just
attached to the wall in the shop 25' down stream of the compressor with a
gascolator type water trap at the outfall end. Tools are running dry now, and
the water trap that I bought 4 months ago now finally has some water in it.
Kevin Shannon
-9 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Sorry Larry but you need to have IFR equipment appropriate to the type of
navigation you intend to use. If you are going to "climb through a deck" you
are expected to have navigation radios capable of doing enroute navigation.
Remember that most of the rules were developed from someone else's blood.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Larry Bowen
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 08:32 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
> What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
> words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might climb through
> a
> deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros, radio,
> xponder,
> and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and clock)......right?
>
> Baffled,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 firewall assembly
> Advance, NC, USA
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Glenn & Judi
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
> >
> > Do you think a hand held VOR transceiver qualified as an
> > alternative means of
> > navigation?
> >
> > Mike Robertson wrote:
> >
>
> > >
> > > Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All
> > it says is
> > > that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> > > system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground
> > facilities to be
> > > used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we
> > see that it
> > > clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be
> > installed. It
> > > need not be on or used but it must be there and work.
> [snip]
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Bill,
You only need one navigation radio. An ADF will do if all you are going to
do is navigate via radio beacons. But in the fine wisdom of the FAA, If you
want to use a GPS you need another radio. An ADF will do in this case too.
Crazy, huh?
Bob
RV8#423
> ----------
> From: Bill VonDane
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 11:42 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
> So... Does this mean if I want an IFR certified panel, I have to have two
> GPS's, two VOR's, or one of each? I know at least one person flying a
> RV-6
> with a single VOR, that told me his RV is IFR certified...
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado
> RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 6:45 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
>
> Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
> that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to
> be
> used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that
> it
> clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed.
> It
> need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
> an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed.
> If
> you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
> the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
> RV-8A
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Larry,
If you have the minimum legal IFR equipment then you can descend through
the clouds. If you have the minimum legal IFR equipment then you already
have a navigation radio that can also allow you to do at least one type of
approach. ILS, VOR or NDB. (Remember a GPS still requires that you have
another navigation radio on board. The Garmin 430 qualifies.)
Again, you must have a navigation radio that will allow you to do enroute
navigation ANY time you are in the clouds.
Bob
RV8#423
> ----------
> From: Larry Bowen
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 11:59 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
> I hear you.
>
> What I'm saying is, I think I've met the min. equipment requirements for
> IFR. Why can't I legally descend through a cloud layer to VFR conditions
> without approach equipment? It's VFR underneath, so 'ground facilities'
> are
> not used.
>
> I met a RV-Lister at OSH who's RV was certified for IFR late last year.
> Minimal setup, similar to the one I describe (near as I can recall). He
> hasn't chimed in on this topic yet, so I won't name names, but I hope he
> contributes.
>
> Not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand the rules I'm
> suppose
> to live by.
>
> Larry Bowen
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
> >
> >
> > Good try Larry but no-go. If you want to bust through clouds
> > then its IFR
> > time.
> >
> > Mike R.
> >
> > >
> > >What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
> > >words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might
> > climb through
> > >a
> > >deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros,
> > radio, xponder,
> > >and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and
> clock)......right?
> > >
> > >Baffled,
> > >
> > >Larry Bowen
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Nope, all you need is the instruments necessary for approch you are using.
You can do lots with only one VOR but there are lots of limitations. If you
are flying along an airway and have to identify a fix in order to change to
a different heading then one VOR will do it but you'd be changing the freq
and OBS constantly to confirm your position. If you are using only only one
VOR/ILS CDI and the approach has step down fixes then your going to be
might busy changing freq and OBS again to adaquately fly the approach,
especially in an RV. If you are using a Navaid Device to help with the
flying on the approach then you couldn't very well change the freq to
identify the step down fix.
In the end, legally, you can fly with only one VOR but it's not advisable.
If you just want to get through some clouds and go on top or head on down to
a couple thousand feet about the ground, then on VOR might be the only Nav
radio you'd need.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
> So... Does this mean if I want an IFR certified panel, I have to have two
> GPS's, two VOR's, or one of each? I know at least one person flying a
RV-6
> with a single VOR, that told me his RV is IFR certified...
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado
> RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 6:45 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
> Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
> that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to
be
> used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that
it
> clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed.
It
> need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
> an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed.
If
> you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
> the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
"Are Barstad" wrote:
>
> Unfortunately there is no such thing as 'light IFR'. Either the aircraft
> (and you) is certified for IFR or it's not. In Canada though (probably the
> US too), it's possible to equip the aircraft for VFR OTT (over-the-top).
> This requires fewer NAV instrumentation but you need to get the VFR OTT
> rating
No such rating in the US and you can fly VFR on top of clouds with just
plain VFR rating. When you get to the destination and it is below minimums,
you can go somewhere else or declare an emergency. Then you can bet your
life that you can do real IFR in IMC. In many parts of this country, you
would be descending thru turbulence such as you might not have previously
seen VFR.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR - VFR OTT |
Mike Nellis wrote:
>But if your departure airport is
>less than 1000' and 3 mile vis then you are going to have to file something
>and that's going to require an initial fix
>
Do I need to give a fix if I request SVFR? (one mile and clear of clouds)
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting a tube - question |
Hi All:
Last nights (bad) comedy show - trying to put AN470AD4-9 rivets in my RV8
rear seat rudder pedal tubes with my pneumatic squeezer. I must have
drilled the holes slightly off kilter because I can't get a decent rivet
shop head. Since I've drilled each one out four times already I'm getting
nervous about enlarging the holes. Using the C frame tool seems even more
clumsy. Is there any reason I couldn't use a Cherrymax rivet here with my
pop rivet tool? (apart from the inconvenience & expense of ordering them of
course).
Thanks,
Phil, 80691
Fairfax, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
| Subject: | Riveting a tube - question |
Phil,
I think the issue you will have is getting a cherrymax with the right grip
length. Just weld the end on the tube. If you're not equipped to do it, I'm
sure you can get your friendly welding shop to do a nifty job of it.
Bob
RV8#423
> ----------
> From: pdsmith
> Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 01:51 AM
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: Riveting a tube - question
>
>
> Hi All:
>
> Last nights (bad) comedy show - trying to put AN470AD4-9 rivets in my RV8
> rear seat rudder pedal tubes with my pneumatic squeezer. I must have
> drilled the holes slightly off kilter because I can't get a decent rivet
> shop head. Since I've drilled each one out four times already I'm getting
> nervous about enlarging the holes. Using the C frame tool seems even more
> clumsy. Is there any reason I couldn't use a Cherrymax rivet here with my
> pop rivet tool? (apart from the inconvenience & expense of ordering them
> of
> course).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil, 80691
> Fairfax, CA
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR - VFR OTT |
Ok Hal, it must be late and you're feeling a little goofy and want to bust
my chops. You know very well that you don't need a fix when operating SVFR
and your in controlled airpspace and it's less than VFR. However, the
aircraft does need to be equipped for instrument flight and for the purposes
of this discussion that probably means at least a VOR. Of course all bets
change if it's a helecopter and/or it's night. Pretty soon we're going to
start quoting passages like FAR 91.205 and then I'll have to go back to my
hybernation den and not play anymore. :)
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 1:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR - VFR OTT
>
> Mike Nellis wrote:
> >But if your departure airport is
> >less than 1000' and 3 mile vis then you are going to have to file
something
> >and that's going to require an initial fix
> >
> Do I need to give a fix if I request SVFR? (one mile and clear of clouds)
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> 2578 Elliot Court
> Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
> 408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
> RV6a N7HK 99%
> 1965 Debonair for sale!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
Having not had to work with fiberglas yet, what are you guys talking
about when you say cutting square or on the bias?
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
> I used a 6' long piece of hydronic baseboard heating tubing,
Ok, I give up .. care to translate 'hydronic baseboard' into something
an average RV builder can understand. What type of supplier is likely
to carry such an animal?
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Chicago area tool needed |
Hi,
Is there anyone within short flying or driving distance that has a
crimping tool for the big #2 & #4 wire terminal on my RV-6 project. My
wires are all ready, and I thought I would be able to get a local auto
or marine shop to do them. "We just usually hammer on them things till
they stay on." was a response I heard more than once. Electric Bob
says that is a no no.
Please contact me off the list.
Thanks!
Glenn Gordon
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net
W: 847-394-0940
H: 847-955-0095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Texas (Cessna Flying Center) |
From What I was told the other day FlightLine at Addison is now a Cessna
Center.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
Cutting it "on the bias" means that you cut it off the roll (or sheet) on a
45 degree angle to the fibers. The fibers usually run parallel with the edge
of the roll so you just cut across the roll at 45 degrees. This allows you
to lay the fiberglass out on your project so the fibers run on a 45 degree
angle to the length of your piece.
The strength of the cured fiberglass is strongest in line with the fibers.
If lay out a piece with the fibers running lengthwise, it will be strongest
lengthwise and not as strong widthwise or in a twisting situation. By
arranging things so the fibers are at 45 degrees, the cured piece is strong
in both directions.
Hope this makes sense.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing skinning)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
Cutting on the bias also minimizes edge raveling, plus makes compound curves
much easier. One can also increase the thread count and strength by pulling
in the direction of the desired additional strength.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias?
>
> Cutting it "on the bias" means that you cut it off the roll (or sheet) on
a
> 45 degree angle to the fibers. The fibers usually run parallel with the
edge
> of the roll so you just cut across the roll at 45 degrees. This allows
you
> to lay the fiberglass out on your project so the fibers run on a 45 degree
> angle to the length of your piece.
> The strength of the cured fiberglass is strongest in line with the fibers.
> If lay out a piece with the fibers running lengthwise, it will be
strongest
> lengthwise and not as strong widthwise or in a twisting situation. By
> arranging things so the fibers are at 45 degrees, the cured piece is
strong
> in both directions.
>
> Hope this makes sense.
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
> RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing skinning)
> Eric's RV-6A
> Construction Page
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Measurements, was: finish kit |
> I don't see why the naca vent hole can't be cut before the skins are
> riveted. Just be sure to attach the plastic rudder pedal blocks to
> the
> support when positioning the naca vents so there is no interference.
> Maybe
> there are listers who have been there and can comment.
Jer,
Have heard from several and some posts - guess the best bet is to wait
and expend a little more effort to get it right.
> Let's get these planes finished and meet at the EAA SW Regional
> Abilene Fly-in in 2001!!
I'm trying, I'm trying! I'll be parking planes (Classics) this year.
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <cbegnaud(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Bill,
Not sure if it's the cheapest, but very reasonably priced and VERY full
featured with good upgradability is the UPS/IImorrow/Appollo GX60 (GPS/Com
with moving map; enroute, terminal and approach certified)
I got a nice demo of it at Arlington several weeks ago. It will probably go
in my panel, along with a SL30 Nav/Com, unless something better comes along
in ten years when I'm ready for it ;-)
Regards,
Cliff RV9A N782PC (reserved)
waiting for tail kit to arrive, repacking Glastar parts
>
> Sounds good to me... Anyone know what the least expensive GPS with these
> certifications is?
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
FYI to all, we sell this material and a little cheaper than ACS I think.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT |
Dollar wise this is a good back-up system in your case. Others have this setup
as their primary system. What about your realestate ? Do you have the room in
the pannel or radio stack for the LCD....its big. I like the small 2.25 inch
bar display for CHT/EGT. I choose the GEM 602. Actual numbers are not as
important (to me) as relative trend and deltas from each cylinder. Actual
displayed numbers and switching between cylinders is more workload than a
quick glance at a bar graph with all 8 parameters on 4 cylinders is
displayed..... any anomoly gets your attention quicklyby looking at one bar
graph display. This is a blond vs. brunette kind-a-thing I suspect...each method
has its pluses & minuses. BTW... I went with a trophy blonde & a GEM 602.
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net@matronics.com on 08/02/2000 08:41:17 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
List: I am looking to purchase my last piece for the Panel. I have all the
Analog Gauges from Vans with Electric Gyros but need a way to monitor CHT &
EGT Temps.
The monitor from Grand Rapids Technologies seems to give me what I
need at the same price of most CHT-EGT Monitors that only offer the 2 areas
of information.
Will I have to install another set of sending units that come with
Grand Rapids unit? Can the sending units for the Analog Gauges do double
duty?
Hey for about the same price I have backup systems! What say the
"Wise Ones" who have been there-done that?
Tom in Ohio (ELEC. FLAP ACTUATOR STUFF)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Thu,
03 Aug 2000 09:28:38.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglass on the bias? |
If anyone is interested in a much more in-depth illustration of these fiberglass
terms and processes I would greatly recommend getting your hands on the Gougeon
brothers book "fiberglass boat construction" Its available at any West Marine
store. It really goes into the use of the arrangement of bias weave and strength
effects of alternating directional cloths.
Eric Henson
Emp Glass work done, Yeahhhhhhh
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: lycoming oil pressures
Thread-Index: Ab/9UmNSt+5xE54sTw2xPLJHX9NZsw=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
| Subject: | lycoming oil pressures |
Listers,
I am pretty well done debugging my -6 while doing taxi testing, and I
have a question about the oil pressures I'm seeing. On the ground at
idle I'm showing 55-60 psi, around 2000 rpm's I'm seeing 80-90. Is this
normal or is this high? I don't have the book for the engine, but
according to what I've been told anything from 25-125 is OK.
Bob Japundza
-6 O-360-A1A, Hartzell
ready to fly, waiting on the weather to clear up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chicago area tool needed |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 4:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Chicago area tool needed
>
> Hi,
>
> Is there anyone within short flying or driving distance that has a
> crimping tool for the big #2 & #4 wire terminal on my RV-6 project.
Try a battery or electrical shop that builds battery cables
Ken S. Waiting for finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | GPS Only IFR - conclusion? |
Well, I started this thread with the hope that after all was said and done,
things would be perfectly clear, but ... it sounds like the "real" story is GPS
is OK so long as another means of nav is available.
But ... can it be any kind, like an ADF receiver?
Depending on the fed inspector involved, it could be a hand held or panel mount
nav radio of some sort, I guess?
Would another IFR GPS satisfy the requirement?
The Garmin 430 certainly gives you the VOR, but it is hardly redundant if the
unit fails!
Chris Browne
-6A Finish
Atlanta
>
> >
> > Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
> > that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> > system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to
> > be
> > used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that
> > it
> > clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed.
> > It
> > need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
> > an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed.
> > If
> > you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
> > the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > Das Fed
> > RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RST intercom for sale |
I think you will find the Microair has an "always on" intercom system.
The fellow at the booth said it was an easy matter to hook up a switch,
and panel mount it, to turn it off when you wanted to.
Larry Mac Donald
Rick,
> Keep in mind the microair is a pushbutton intercom not voice
activated. I just went over the schematics for the microair and
noticed this, I had been assuming it was a typical voice activated. I
just might get a seperate intercom for mine to avoid the extra switch
on the stick. Just thought I'd mention this because it caught me by
suprise.
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
Doug, hydronic ( hot water heating system) baseboard tubing is the copper
tube with fins (usually aluminum) on it. The usual size is 3/4" and it is
available from most plumbing supply stores especially in the northeast &
northwest. Hope this helps.
Doug Gray wrote:
>
> > I used a 6' long piece of hydronic baseboard heating tubing,
>
> Ok, I give up .. care to translate 'hydronic baseboard' into something
> an average RV builder can understand. What type of supplier is likely
> to carry such an animal?
>
> Doug Gray
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | RMI AMP Transducer |
Any one have a RMI Monitor? I tried to call Ron, but he is closed.
I am trying to trouble shoot my AMP transducer wiring as I get invalid
reading.
What I have noted in the manual on the tranducer wire hook-up is the
following: Black wire to the (+) on the transducer.
Shielding wire to the (0)on the transducer.
white wire to the (-) on the transducer.
Can anyone out there confirm or correct that hook up?
Thanks!
Have a good one!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Graham <gary(at)colonialmortgage.net> |
At 03:04 PM 08/02/2000 HST, you wrote:
>
>I need some ideas. Any of you that have the Visions Microsystems panel on
>board. Can you tell me where you placed you load sensor?
Mike
On my plane (RV-8) the right hand sub-panel is where I mounted all the
circuit breakers and the main bus. I ran the cable up through the landing
gear box and made a small bracket to hold the board. I mounted the bracket
to the upper area of the gear box. The cable goes through the sensor on the
way to the main bus.
Gary Graham
N202RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT |
I have the room on my panel and sub panels for the Grand Rapids Monitor but
must admit the KS Avionics EGT/CHT does appear to fit with less trouble and
satisfies my "Analog Gauge Fetish".
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
>
>
> Dollar wise this is a good back-up system in your case. Others have this
setup
> as their primary system. What about your realestate ? Do you have the room
in
> the pannel or radio stack for the LCD....its big. I like the small 2.25
inch
> bar display for CHT/EGT. I choose the GEM 602. Actual numbers are not as
> important (to me) as relative trend and deltas from each cylinder. Actual
> displayed numbers and switching between cylinders is more workload than
a
> quick glance at a bar graph with all 8 parameters on 4 cylinders is
> displayed..... any anomoly gets your attention quicklyby looking at one
bar
> graph display. This is a blond vs. brunette kind-a-thing I suspect...each
method
> has its pluses & minuses. BTW... I went with a trophy blonde & a GEM 602.
>
>
> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net@matronics.com on 08/02/2000 08:41:17 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
>
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
>
>
> List: I am looking to purchase my last piece for the Panel. I have all
the
> Analog Gauges from Vans with Electric Gyros but need a way to monitor CHT
&
> EGT Temps.
> The monitor from Grand Rapids Technologies seems to give me what
I
> need at the same price of most CHT-EGT Monitors that only offer the 2
areas
> of information.
> Will I have to install another set of sending units that come
with
> Grand Rapids unit? Can the sending units for the Analog Gauges do double
> duty?
> Hey for about the same price I have backup systems! What say the
> "Wise Ones" who have been there-done that?
> Tom in Ohio (ELEC. FLAP ACTUATOR STUFF)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Filling blind rivets |
I have been making liberal use of blind rivets in my empennage, and I
realize these will need to be filled. Is there any reason not to fill them
with J-B Weld? (That's an epoxy compound similar to if not the same as
ScotchWeld.)
Thanks in advance!
Jim Bower
RV-6A N143DJ
St. Louis, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carbon fiber |
Carbon fiber will turn milky colored and break down in time as it is not UV
resistant.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <cbegnaud(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
> In the end, legally, you can fly with only one VOR but it's not
advisable.
> If you just want to get through some clouds and go on top or head on down
to
> a couple thousand feet about the ground, then on VOR might be the only Nav
> radio you'd need.
>
> Mike
The subject of an adequate, yet minimal IFR panel is something I've been
pondering for some time.
No doubt that a dual Garmin 430 stack is hard to beat for the serious IFR
pilot.
The question I have and it seems many others have is "how can you get the
most functionality for the least money?" And will it fit in my RV panel?
Here's what I've come up with.
First I think I'll go with the Garmin GMA 340 audio panel. It has large
buttons for easy use in turbulence, three light Marker beacon, stereo, split
comm which allows the pilot to talk on one comm and the co-pilot to talk on
another, separate volume controls, modern digital technology and much more
for a street price under $1100. An incredible value compared to the
competition.
Next in the stack will be the Apollo GX60 GPS/Comm. It has a moving map, is
very easy to use, is enroute, terminal and approach certified. It is
upgradeable for future enhancements. The comm has a monitor function that
allows you to have ATC on the active frequency while you listen to the stand
by frequency (atis, ctaf etc). Also has a built in intercom for when your
main one fails. It's only 2" tall, so should work well in a RV panel.
Street price around $3600 + annunciator and harness (another $800)
If you don't want or need the Approach capability you could go with the GX65
for less money.
Next will be the Apollo SL 30 nav/comm. It's only 1.3" tall.
For comm features, it has the same comm monitor funtion and built in
intercom as the GX60. Stuck mike time out, emergency channel selector and
frequency memory.
Nav functions are where this unit really excels. It's a full Vor/loc/Ils
"digital" receiver which means no wandering VOR needles. There's a built in
CDI, the unit automatically decodes the Morse code station ID and displays
it. It has frequency memory and automatic "back course" detection. The most
important feature on this unit, however, is the Nav monitor funtion. Your
active Nav frequency is shown on the integral CDI or on an external one. The
current "radial" of the stand-by nav frequency is displayed on the screen.
This incredible feature allows you to identify fixes, cross radials etc that
would normally require two VOR receivers. This solves the "two vors needed"
problem that several have mentioned during this discussion.
At a street price of $2995 it is quite possibly the best avionics value out
there.
Last in the stack will be the Garmin GTX 327 transponder. It's all solid
state so there is no warm up needed. It has flight timers and displays
pressure altitude. It has a quick VFR sqwauk button, but most important is
the fact that sqwauk codes are entered by pushing buttons instead of turning
knobs. (my personal preference).
I'm still undecided on engine monitoring instruments and would love to open
up a discussion on that topic.
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling blind rivets |
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 10:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: Filling blind rivets
>
>I have been making liberal use of blind rivets in my empennage, and I
>realize these will need to be filled. Is there any reason not to fill them
>with J-B Weld? (That's an epoxy compound similar to if not the same as
>ScotchWeld.)
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Jim Bower
>RV-6A N143DJ
>St. Louis, MO
>
I believe JB Weld is a single-component system. As such, it is not an
epoxy, or it would cure in the tube. In general, single-component fillers
tend to shrink a bit over time. Epoxy with microballoons will exhibit the
least shrinkage over time. You will need epoxy and microballoons later in
the project so you might as well order some West System stuff from Wicks
now.
Dennis Persyk N600DP
C38 Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Bias is cut at a 45 degree angle to the weave. You get to trash the the
triangle part.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> Having not had to work with fiberglas yet, what are you guys talking
> about when you say cutting square or on the bias?
>
> --
> --Scott--
> 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting a tube - question |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Phil :
Have you tried driving them with the rivet gun??
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> Hi All:
trying to put AN470AD4-9 rivets in my RV8 rear seat rudder pedal tubes
with my pneumatic squeezer. I must have drilled the holes slightly off
kilter because I can't get a decent rivet shop head.
>
> Phil, 80691
> Fairfax, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
-----Original Message-----
From: Cliff Begnaud <cbegnaud(at)bigfoot.com>
Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>Next will be the Apollo SL 30 nav/comm. It's only 1.3" tall.
>For comm features, it has the same comm monitor funtion and built in
>intercom as the GX60. Stuck mike time out, emergency channel selector and
>frequency memory.
>Nav functions are where this unit really excels. It's a full Vor/loc/Ils
>"digital" receiver which means no wandering VOR needles. >At a street price
of $2995 it is quite possibly the best avionics value out
>there.
>
>>
>Cliff
I agree with your analysis of the Apollo SL 30, which I may add to my GX 60.
I am sticking with Apollo/UPS and getting their transponder.
Regarding the ""digital" receiver which means no wandering VOR needles", I
have to suggest that this may be marketing hype. The VOR receiver is still
doing a phase comparison between two sinusoidally-varying signals and it
makes no difference if the phase difference is obtained digitally or
analoglly (new word). The course scalloping associated with VORs is usually
caused by varying propagation delays associated with terrain, and there is
little the receiver can do about it as the integration time constants have
to be short to provide instantaneous course deviation information.
Dennis Persyk N9DP amateur call N600DP RV6A registration
C38 Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling blind rivets |
JB Weld is TWO part. An epoxy!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filling blind rivets
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 10:52 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Filling blind rivets
>
>
> >
> >I have been making liberal use of blind rivets in my empennage, and I
> >realize these will need to be filled. Is there any reason not to fill
them
> >with J-B Weld? (That's an epoxy compound similar to if not the same as
> >ScotchWeld.)
> >
> >Thanks in advance!
> >
> >Jim Bower
> >RV-6A N143DJ
> >St. Louis, MO
> >
> I believe JB Weld is a single-component system. As such, it is not an
> epoxy, or it would cure in the tube. In general, single-component fillers
> tend to shrink a bit over time. Epoxy with microballoons will exhibit the
> least shrinkage over time. You will need epoxy and microballoons later in
> the project so you might as well order some West System stuff from Wicks
> now.
> Dennis Persyk N600DP
> C38 Hampshire, IL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
Not after the first cut as you want to make your material bias cut. It is
easier to handle. Might have to throw away the selvage triangle but there
are always places for little piece of glass for hard points, etc.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don R Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 12:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias?
>
>
> Bias is cut at a 45 degree angle to the weave. You get to trash the the
> triangle part.
>
> Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
> >
> > Having not had to work with fiberglas yet, what are you guys talking
> > about when you say cutting square or on the bias?
> >
> > --
> > --Scott--
> > 1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
> > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mddickens(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: Filling blind rivets |
I am by no means an expert on blind rivets, but what research I've done indicates
that much of the strength of one is in the stem left in the rivet after "popping"
it off. I believe that a recent article in Sport Aviation concerning what
the EAA judges look for said that filling blind rivets was a negative as you
can't determine if the stem is still in the rivet. My personal plan is to
leave them alone because I want to be able to see the stem during inspections...for
what it's worth...
Mark Dickens
-8 Wings Done, Fuse Started
rv-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bower
Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 10:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: Filling blind rivets
>
>I have been making liberal use of blind rivets in my empennage, and I
>realize these will need to be filled. Is there any reason not to fill them
>with J-B Weld? (That's an epoxy compound similar to if not the same as
>ScotchWeld.)
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Jim Bower
>RV-6A N143DJ
>St. Louis, MO
>
I believe JB Weld is a single-component system. As such, it is not an
epoxy, or it would cure in the tube. In general, single-component fillers
tend to shrink a bit over time. Epoxy with microballoons will exhibit the
least shrinkage over time. You will need epoxy and microballoons later in
the project so you might as well order some West System stuff from Wicks
now.
Dennis Persyk N600DP
C38 Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Now we get to interesting. Firstly, Are, in the US, there ae only two
ratings, either VFR or IFR. There is nothing special for VFR-on-Top.
After that the water gets muddy. So muddy taht I now have a few of our
"experts" in our FSDO raising questions. The only references that can be
found at the present time about VFR-on-Top are those for an IFR flight.
Other than that there no longer is anything for the VFR only pilot. Their
used to be many moons ago but that has been withdrawn from the regs. AS of
right now there does not seem to be any restriction on the non-instrument
rated pilot for VFR-on-Top except for normal cloud clearences. This could
change as I am going to trying to get a more definitive answer from DC on
this. So the best thing I can say at this time is stand by.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
>From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 22:56:24 -0400
>
>
>Unfortunately there is no such thing as 'light IFR'. Either the aircraft
>(and you) is certified for IFR or it's not. In Canada though (probably the
>US too), it's possible to equip the aircraft for VFR OTT (over-the-top).
>This requires fewer NAV instrumentation but you need to get the VFR OTT
>rating. This will enable you to go over the top of the clouds but the
>requirements are that you have a sufficient 'hole' at each end of the
>flight.
>
>I haven't studied this rating in detail so please get the facts from the
>proper sources in case I'm way off.
>
>Are
>RV-8 - left elevator - wings on order
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
>Sent: August 2, 2000 8:33 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
>What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
>words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might climb through
>a
>deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros, radio, xponder,
>and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and clock)......right?
>
>Baffled,
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8 firewall assembly
>Advance, NC, USA
>Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
The key is redundancy. You need two pieces of Nav equipment, be it two
VORs, or a VOR and an ADF , or a VOR and a GPS.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 21:42:02 -0600
>
>
>So... Does this mean if I want an IFR certified panel, I have to have two
>GPS's, two VOR's, or one of each? I know at least one person flying a RV-6
>with a single VOR, that told me his RV is IFR certified...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado
>RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
>http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 6:45 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
>Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
>that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
>system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to
>be
>used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that it
>clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed. It
>need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
>an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed. If
>you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
>the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
>
>Mike Robertson
>Das Fed
>RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Larry,
With the exception of GPS EVERYTHING else is "ground equipment" based. The
regs have not caught up all the way with GPS yet but they are getting there.
Part 91 is very clear what cloud clearences are required to stay VFR. If
you can't maintain those clearences then you are IFR. If you are IFR then
you and your aircraft MUST meet the IFR requirements of Part 91.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 23:59:26 -0400
>
>
>I hear you.
>
>What I'm saying is, I think I've met the min. equipment requirements for
>IFR. Why can't I legally descend through a cloud layer to VFR conditions
>without approach equipment? It's VFR underneath, so 'ground facilities'
>are
>not used.
>
>I met a RV-Lister at OSH who's RV was certified for IFR late last year.
>Minimal setup, similar to the one I describe (near as I can recall). He
>hasn't chimed in on this topic yet, so I won't name names, but I hope he
>contributes.
>
>Not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand the rules I'm suppose
>to live by.
>
>Larry Bowen
>Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>Web: http://BowenAero.com
>
> >
> >
> > Good try Larry but no-go. If you want to bust through clouds
> > then its IFR
> > time.
> >
> > Mike R.
> >
> > >
> > >What if you plan such that you don't need "ground facilites". In other
> > >words all departures and approaches will be VFR; but I might
> > climb through
> > >a
> > >deck from 015 to 040 and VFR above. Now I just need gyros,
> > radio, xponder,
> > >and hand-held GPS (alternatly monitored by compass and
>clock)......right?
> > >
> > >Baffled,
> > >
> > >Larry Bowen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lycoming oil pressures |
90 psi is about as high as I would want to see it, the redline for most Lyc
engines is 100 psi. I talked with the Lyc rep and he indicated anything in
the 55 to 90 psi range was acceptable in normal cruise flight. I would not
change anything if I were you.
Chris
----------
> From: Bob Japundza <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: lycoming oil pressures
> Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 8:54 AM
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am pretty well done debugging my -6 while doing taxi testing, and I
> have a question about the oil pressures I'm seeing. On the ground at
> idle I'm showing 55-60 psi, around 2000 rpm's I'm seeing 80-90. Is this
> normal or is this high? I don't have the book for the engine, but
> according to what I've been told anything from 25-125 is OK.
>
> Bob Japundza
> -6 O-360-A1A, Hartzell
> ready to fly, waiting on the weather to clear up
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR - conclusion? |
Chris,
Told you this was a can of worms. Anything else besides another GPS is what
is needed.
As far as the GARmin 430 goes it is seperate radios in one case. If the GPS
part goes out it does not necessarily effect the radio or Nav parts at all.
It has three seperate plugs on the back with three seperate power leads.
Mike R.
>From: Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: GPS Only IFR - conclusion?
>Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 10:23:07 -0400
>
>
>Well, I started this thread with the hope that after all was said and done,
>things would be perfectly clear, but ... it sounds like the "real" story is
>GPS
>is OK so long as another means of nav is available.
>But ... can it be any kind, like an ADF receiver?
>Depending on the fed inspector involved, it could be a hand held or panel
>mount
>nav radio of some sort, I guess?
>Would another IFR GPS satisfy the requirement?
>The Garmin 430 certainly gives you the VOR, but it is hardly redundant if
>the
>unit fails!
>
>Chris Browne
>-6A Finish
>Atlanta
>
> >
> > >
> > > Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says
>is
> > > that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> > > system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities
>to
> > > be
> > > used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see
>that
> > > it
> > > clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be
>installed.
> > > It
> > > need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you
>have
> > > an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR
>installed.
> > > If
> > > you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there
>except
> > > the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > Das Fed
> > > RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "christopher huey" <clhuey(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carbon fiber |
Any good paint will solve that problem.....in fact most epoxies will break
down with exposure to UV. I am not sure be I believe the milky color would
be the resin being affected by the sun-light. Case in point....fiberglass
boats.
Ch
----------
> From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Carbon fiber
> Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 10:58 AM
>
>
> Carbon fiber will turn milky colored and break down in time as it is not
UV
> resistant.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chicago area tool needed |
I bought a battery terminal crimper part #25008 for $29.99 from the Eastwood
catalog 1-800-345-1178
Cash
In a message dated 8/3/00 7:25:26 AM Central Daylight Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<<
Hi,
Is there anyone within short flying or driving distance that has a
crimping tool for the big #2 & #4 wire terminal on my RV-6 project. My
wires are all ready, and I thought I would be able to get a local auto
or marine shop to do them. "We just usually hammer on them things till
they stay on." was a response I heard more than once. Electric Bob
says that is a no no.
Please contact me off the list.
Thanks!
Glenn Gordon
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net
W: 847-394-0940
H: 847-955-0095
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filling blind rivets |
JB Weld is two part comes in fast and slow set up.
Cash
In a message dated 8/3/00 12:55:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<<
I believe JB Weld is a single-component system. As such, it is not an
epoxy, or it would cure in the tube. In general, single-component fillers
t >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.03.00 201-229-121) |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Let's expand on Das Fed's remarks: "navigational equipment appropriate
to the ground facilities to be used": If you follow the beacons and
make NDB approaches, a single ADF unit is satisfactory; if you fly
VOR's then a single VOR unit is OK, plus the remote CDI needle in the
pilot's primary scan/line of sight rule. If you want precision
approaches you need the VOR plus ILS/LOC/GS gear. (AIM) If you have have
an IFR GPS you must have an alternate navigation system installed (ADF
or VOR) and if you file IFR your primary and alternate airport must have
the ground equipment for the alternate equipment. This for the minimum
equipment needed. You must decide what to use based on your type of
flying and what you want your workload to be.
Boyd
RV-S6
CORRECTION: A while back I posted a note saying that LASAR systems
could be hand-cranked. This will be available in the future but
probably all the units currently on the market still have non-impulse
coupled magnetos and SHOULD NOT be hand cranked. This also applies to
LightSpeed ingnitions.
>
>
> So... Does this mean if I want an IFR certified panel, I have to have two
> GPS's, two VOR's, or one of each? I know at least one person flying a RV-6
> with a single VOR, that told me his RV is IFR certified...
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado
> RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 6:45 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
>
> Can of worms time. FAR 91.205(d) is our guideline here. All it says is
> that the aircraft must be equipped with a two-way radio communications
> system and navigational equipment appropriate to the ground facilities to be
> used. But when we go to the AIM in paragraph 1-1-21.b.1.(b) we see that it
> clearly states that an alternate means of monitoring must be installed. It
> need not be on or used but it must be there and work. Soooo...if you have
> an IFR certified GPS installed then you must also have a VOR installed. If
> you get a Garmin 430 then you have everything you need right there except
> the CDI/OBS indicator and the transponder.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
> RV-8A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Petri" <dpetri(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Persyk <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
One thing that hasn't been noted on this subject is that when you cut
fiberglass on the bias, it becomes much easier to stretch into compound
curves - such as the fuselage/windshield fairing on a sliding canopy. This
is the only reason I can think of to use bias cut cloth on an RV.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: firesleeve on fuel pressure line?
Thread-Index: Ab/8+Py5a9NShs3LQvGZwPgxg0/r5QAiZ33A
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
| Subject: | firesleeve on fuel pressure line? |
Pat,
Did you say you are using 1/4" ID? I think that may be a bit on the big
side for fuel pressure lines, if you are using AN4 hose.
I used Earl's AN-3 teflon braided hose/fittings, and used firesleeve
over that. You can get the right sizes of small firesleeve from Baker
Precision (www.bakerprecision.com) and its a heck of a lot less
expensive than "aircraft" firesleeve, even though it's the same exact
stuff. Go to your local Napa parts store and ask for CV-joint band
clamps for the ends of the firesleeve, and they also have the tool to
put them on for about $15. You want to make sure that you are using
restrictor fittings and the smallest diameter hose possible for things
such as sender lines so that in the event of a rupture your not spilling
large quantities of fluid in the engine compartment. Being weight
conscious pays dividends, too.
Bob Japundza
-6 ready to fly
-----Original Message-----
From: Pat Perry [mailto:pperryrv(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 9:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: firesleeve on fuel pressure line?
I used a 1/4" flex line to the firewall mounted fuel pressure sender. I
was
going to order some firesleeve for it and I noticed Vans doesn't carry
sleeve that small.
Is there some reason it isn't needed on that line? I remember seeing
others
with no sleeve on the pressure sending line, why not?
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling blind rivets |
> I have been making liberal use of blind rivets in my empennage, and I
> realize these will need to be filled. Is there any reason not to fill
them
> with J-B Weld? (That's an epoxy compound similar to if not the same as
> ScotchWeld.)
They don't NEED to be filled.... nevertheless, I did, with JBweld. Worked
fine. Be careful to fill ONLY the hole, and not slop it around the edges of
the rivets -- if you do you'll end up with a messy partly filled rivet edge.
A minor detail but one that bugs me where I did it. Not that I'm a
perfectionist or anything... :-}
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FOR SALE Partially complete kit |
RV kit partially completed. Tail done, wings done, fuselage ready to skin.
Some extra parts included. All tools also available.
Will sacrafise for $8500. Phone evenings and weekends @ 316-431-1874
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
I've searched the archives and found people use 30-35 psi to rivet the
empennage together. Is this correct and is it the same for back riveting?
Just a quickie before the 3x goes to work for the first time.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting a tube - question |
Phil,
I had the same problem with my aileron control rods. I tried cupped
rivet sets in both ends of my squeezer. Made nice, neat, even, rounded
heads on both ends.
Charlie
RV-6AQB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
> From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Riveting a tube - question
>
>
> Hi All:
>
> Last nights (bad) comedy show - trying to put AN470AD4-9 rivets in my RV8
> rear seat rudder pedal tubes with my pneumatic squeezer. I must have
> drilled the holes slightly off kilter because I can't get a decent rivet
> shop head. Since I've drilled each one out four times already I'm getting
> nervous about enlarging the holes. Using the C frame tool seems even more
> clumsy. Is there any reason I couldn't use a Cherrymax rivet here with my
> pop rivet tool? (apart from the inconvenience & expense of ordering them of
> course).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil, 80691
> Fairfax, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <bakerje(at)kfalls.net> |
Hello,
I am at the point of ordering a propeller (wood) for my project and
interested in knowing what the rest of you guys and gals have had luck with
and what you would do different if you could? I have studied all the
information I can find on the subject, including the propeller comparison
done several years ago by Van with the RV-6. Looks like the most efficient
(wood)
is the Warnke Prop.
Thanks for your help.
Send me email direct to bakerje(at)kfalls.net
N513J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Cliff, your panel idea sounds excellent! I waffle back and forth all the
time about what my IFR panel will look like but reliability and money when I
get there will be the ultimate deciding factor. In your scenero, you've got
two comms which I think is important, one nav, one GPS and a moving map.
You can identify your step down fixes for the approachs and if the GPS goes
away you can still navigate and get home. If you want a totaly redundent
system then you might add an integerated NAV/OBS radio like the Narco where
the NAV and OBS are all in one.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <cbegnaud(at)bigfoot.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
> > In the end, legally, you can fly with only one VOR but it's not
> advisable.
> > If you just want to get through some clouds and go on top or head on
down
> to
> > a couple thousand feet about the ground, then on VOR might be the only
Nav
> > radio you'd need.
> >
> > Mike
>
> The subject of an adequate, yet minimal IFR panel is something I've been
> pondering for some time.
> No doubt that a dual Garmin 430 stack is hard to beat for the serious IFR
> pilot.
> The question I have and it seems many others have is "how can you get the
> most functionality for the least money?" And will it fit in my RV panel?
>
> Here's what I've come up with.
> First I think I'll go with the Garmin GMA 340 audio panel. It has large
> buttons for easy use in turbulence, three light Marker beacon, stereo,
split
> comm which allows the pilot to talk on one comm and the co-pilot to talk
on
> another, separate volume controls, modern digital technology and much more
> for a street price under $1100. An incredible value compared to the
> competition.
>
> Next in the stack will be the Apollo GX60 GPS/Comm. It has a moving map,
is
> very easy to use, is enroute, terminal and approach certified. It is
> upgradeable for future enhancements. The comm has a monitor function that
> allows you to have ATC on the active frequency while you listen to the
stand
> by frequency (atis, ctaf etc). Also has a built in intercom for when your
> main one fails. It's only 2" tall, so should work well in a RV panel.
> Street price around $3600 + annunciator and harness (another $800)
> If you don't want or need the Approach capability you could go with the
GX65
> for less money.
>
>
> Next will be the Apollo SL 30 nav/comm. It's only 1.3" tall.
> For comm features, it has the same comm monitor funtion and built in
> intercom as the GX60. Stuck mike time out, emergency channel selector and
> frequency memory.
> Nav functions are where this unit really excels. It's a full Vor/loc/Ils
> "digital" receiver which means no wandering VOR needles. There's a built
in
> CDI, the unit automatically decodes the Morse code station ID and displays
> it. It has frequency memory and automatic "back course" detection. The
most
> important feature on this unit, however, is the Nav monitor funtion. Your
> active Nav frequency is shown on the integral CDI or on an external one.
The
> current "radial" of the stand-by nav frequency is displayed on the screen.
> This incredible feature allows you to identify fixes, cross radials etc
that
> would normally require two VOR receivers. This solves the "two vors
needed"
> problem that several have mentioned during this discussion.
> At a street price of $2995 it is quite possibly the best avionics value
out
> there.
>
> Last in the stack will be the Garmin GTX 327 transponder. It's all solid
> state so there is no warm up needed. It has flight timers and displays
> pressure altitude. It has a quick VFR sqwauk button, but most important is
> the fact that sqwauk codes are entered by pushing buttons instead of
turning
> knobs. (my personal preference).
>
> I'm still undecided on engine monitoring instruments and would love to
open
> up a discussion on that topic.
>
> Cliff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
--- Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
> I've searched the archives and found people use 30-35 psi to rivet
> the
> empennage together. Is this correct and is it the same for back
> riveting?
> Just a quickie before the 3x goes to work for the first time.
That's good for -3 rivets. -4's will sometimes need up to 40 or 45,
depending on length.
Back rivet, bucking, all the same to the rivet.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
> I am at the point of ordering a propeller (wood) for my project and
> interested in knowing what the rest of you guys and gals have had luck with
> and what you would do different if you could? I have studied all the
> information I can find on the subject, including the propeller comparison
> done several years ago by Van with the RV-6. Looks like the most efficient
> (wood)
> is the Warnke Prop.
Jim,
It won't be too long before I face the same question. I was pretty impressed
with the workmanship on Performance Propellers. We're they on your list? How
did they rate? What engine do you have on your RV-6?
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Steve,
I know that this will draw some flak and everybody has their own opinion,
but.....after talking with the manufacturer and distributors of Taylor guns,
they tell me always use 90psi and use a regulator/swivel at the gun. So
there ya go..
Jack Textor
RV-8 Rudder
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering D-sub connectors |
stick it in a female connector, this will hold the pins in place as well
as sink some heat. the female connector can sit on a wet sponge (the
same you use to clean the tip on occasion)
Gert
Sally and George wrote:
>
>
> I need help.
>
> I'm trying (unsuccessfully) to solder a 25 pin D sub-miniature male
> connector that attaches to my intercom. The problems I create include
> overheating the solder lugs on the connector, causing the plastic to soften
> locally which causes the pin to move out of alignment or causing the solder
> lug to just disappear (!). I'm also finding it hard to solder one terminal
> without inflicting damage to the adjacent wire and terminal.
>
> I'm using a 20 watt Radio Shack soldering iron with a small point and a
> large magnifying glass. I've been tinning both the #22 wire ends and the
> solder lug before attempting to join them.
>
> Is there a technique for doing this that makes is easy? Easier? Somewhat
> less hard? At least possible?
>
> I know that there are D-sub connectors with crimped terminals but I'd rather
> not get into that if I can avoid it.
>
> George
> RV8 -N888GK (reserved)
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chicago area tool needed |
In a message dated 8/3/0 7:37:58 AM, foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<>
Glen
Check with your local electrical contractors and electric utilities. We got
em.
Pat Allender
RV-4 Iowa City
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trip to the FSDO |
When having my RV-8 inspected, Tried to get the Memphis Fizzle-doh to help.
They had one excuse after the other. (the sun is up, the sun is down...) The
final result was to use a DAR. I found that even then the feds were not
helpful. (You built it, you find it...). The prices ranged from $100 to $450.
(No clue what so ever.)
I suspect the best and only help will be through the E.A.A.
Good luck
Ed Storo RV-8 35hrs, in paint shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Non TSOed Turn Coordinator Problems |
>Mine has failed after just under a year and waranty repair is being
>denied because I opened the unit up to install additinal filtering. The
>unit as supplied generated enough interference to break squelch on my
>Garmin 250 XL and elicit continous replies from my 320 GX transponder.
Why open it up to add a filter? Never met a TC I couldn't
tame from outside the can.
>The question at hand is, have any of you had success with this unit not
>generating all of these problems. I originally installed it with
>shielded power wires and an LC filter in the rear connector before
>breaking into the unit to install additional filtering.
What kind of filter went inside that couldn't be mounted
outside?
>I question the wisdom of spending an addional $100 to replace the DC
>brush motor and once again voiding the waranty by installing the
>filtering required to make the unit servicable.
Have you contacted the manufacturer? Even if they've
avoided a noise emission requirement by not going for TSO
(and this assumes that the TSO specifcation actually says
anything about electrical noise) they may have had enough
complaints and/or feedback from the field to recommend ways
to make their product friendlier in your airplane.
>To those that are using it, have you ever noted the difference in your
>radio reception noise level and the amount of time your transponder
>reply light is on when the Turn Coordinator circuit breaker is in versus
>out.
About all of the DC motor TC's are noisy. They're
not high on the list of offenders and are relatively
easy to cure when they do cause a problem . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
I use 35psi for the small stuff and about 42 for the larger rivets and I,
too, have a 3x gun.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 4:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting PSI
>
> I've searched the archives and found people use 30-35 psi to rivet the
> empennage together. Is this correct and is it the same for back riveting?
> Just a quickie before the 3x goes to work for the first time.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-6 emp
> C-FSND
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering D-sub connectors |
> > I'm trying (unsuccessfully) to solder a 25 pin D sub-miniature male
> > connector that attaches to my intercom. The problems I create include
> > overheating the solder lugs on the connector, causing the plastic to
soften
> > locally which causes the pin to move out of alignment or causing the
solder
> > lug to just disappear
[snip]
Some others have already commented on technique, but what hasn't been
mentioned (I don't think) is that there are different quality connectors.
I've worked with ones that will melt with very little heat, others are made
of some ceramic or high heat plastic and will stand up to plenty of abuse
before getting soft. In my experience, the best stuff is white in color,
followed by blue, followed by black (the worst). Not a scientific rating
system but that's how it usually seems to work out.
If you want to find better connectors, try your local electronics store and
see if they have heat ratings on them. R/S employees will usually just look
at you funny if you ask them anything except where's the bathroom (and
sometimes even then) but if there is a computer-nerd or radio-nerd type of
store around, they'll probably be able to help with that.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
As someone said earlier, the rivet doesn't care. Well, the gun doesn't care
either as long as it gets the right pressure of air. If you like the swivel
regulator at the gun then that's great. If I've got a regulator on the wall
and 20' of hose to the gun then that works great! If I've got a Craftsman
compressor that has an erroneous guage and it drives good rivets when set at
20 psi, then that's good also. I do know that 90 psi at the hammer of the
gun is gonna smash the snot out of the -3 and -4 rivets and probably put a
hole in the skin. I know, I did it by accident.........once.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 6:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting PSI
>
> Steve,
> I know that this will draw some flak and everybody has their own opinion,
> but.....after talking with the manufacturer and distributors of Taylor
guns,
> they tell me always use 90psi and use a regulator/swivel at the gun. So
> there ya go..
> Jack Textor
> RV-8 Rudder
> Des Moines, IA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Lots of varibles & gauges are not the same. I would start low & raise
pressure as needed.
Then you will have it for your air, gun, gasuge, etc. need about 3 hits
to not work the rivet.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
> I've searched the archives and found people use 30-35 psi to rivet
> the empennage together. Is this correct and is it the same for back
> riveting? Just a quickie before the 3x goes to work for the first time.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-6 emp
> C-FSND
> Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
steve, you will hear lots of ideas. DO THIS, take all you hear, practice on
some scrap and use what is best for you. I use 40 on 3/32 and slightly higher
(50 for 1/8's. of course a whole different story if you are using a pneumatic
squeezer, of which i must tell you is expensive, but it is amazing how easy
and good the 1/8's come out. i more than highly recommend one. after you
botch several 1/8's just member what i said. some guys complete whole project
without one but it is the best investment i made other than my belt sander.
contact me off list if you care to discuss this more. bob in arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
oh steve, i use a 2x so perhaps that is why i found that more pressure is
better here. bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
We may have VFR OTT rating in Canada, but that does obviously not
necessarily mean I agree with it. I would only fly 'over the top' with an
IFR certified aircraft and rating personally. What if you don't find a hole
at destination? At this point it's scary to have a pilot that is only
'partially IFR trained' up above IMC conditions, and as someone else
mentioned: turbulence that you may not have experienced in VFR conditions
before.
In my opinion, VFR is only when you can visually see ground references and
use a road atlas for navigation. These days we have GPS's though and I think
some of us have become a bit lazy. I always follow my route on a map even
while using GPS and autopilot. If the GPS fails, I will at least know where
I am. If you're over the top with GPS navigation equipment only and it
fails... you may not know what you're descending in to.
In this sense, I tend to agree with the FAA rules: IFR or VFR - as simple as
that! :)
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Sent: August 3, 2000 4:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
Now we get to interesting. Firstly, Are, in the US, there ae only two
ratings, either VFR or IFR. There is nothing special for VFR-on-Top.
After that the water gets muddy. So muddy taht I now have a few of our
"experts" in our FSDO raising questions. The only references that can be
found at the present time about VFR-on-Top are those for an IFR flight.
Other than that there no longer is anything for the VFR only pilot. Their
used to be many moons ago but that has been withdrawn from the regs. AS of
right now there does not seem to be any restriction on the non-instrument
rated pilot for VFR-on-Top except for normal cloud clearences. This could
change as I am going to trying to get a more definitive answer from DC on
this. So the best thing I can say at this time is stand by.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
Hola Steve,
On Thu, 3 Aug 2000, Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
> I've searched the archives and found people use 30-35 psi to rivet the
> empennage together. Is this correct and is it the same for back riveting?
> Just a quickie before the 3x goes to work for the first time.
As Jack said, there are many opinions on this matter. It can be quite
confusing, especially for easily confusible guys like me. To make matters
worse, here's my opinion (and a few observations), after trying to think
it through:
1. There are two relevant quantities in an airflow: psi and cfm. PSI is
the pressure; CFM is the flow rate.
If you remember your ground school, Bernoulli's theorem says that
pressure = 1/2 * density * velocity
2. So, increasing the pressure
increases the velocity (and the converse is why a wing works).
The flow rate, in a pipe, is simply the velocity times the area of
the pipe: feet/minute * feet
2 = feet
3/minute. Increase the velocity,
and the flow rate increases; increase the size of the pipe, and the
flow rate increases (simply because you're moving more fluid at a
given pressure).
So.... changing the psi changes the air velocity; changing the pipe
size changes the cfm. A swivel air regulator changes the pipe size,
and hence the cfm -- the amount of air flowing to the tool, not the
pressure of that air.
2. Quite frankly, I don't know enough about how a rivet gun works to
know what difference cfm vs. psi makes. However, the manufacturer
specifically states that the rivet gun should be run at 90 psi.
3. Given the above, I invested a trivial amount of money into a nice
swivel regulator from Cleaveland, and set the compressor to 90 psi.
When driving 4- rivets, we usually keep the regulator all the way
open. When driving 3- rivets, we found the best results with the
regulator halfway closed (quarter turn, or a 45 degree angle).
When riveting the first skin on, we had the regulator more than a
quarter-turn open (higher cfm). The result is a lot of slight
depressions in the skin -- the rivet lines are very obvious from a
distance. After deciding this was probably due to too much oomph from
the gun, we turned it down, and the second skin came out really nice.
For the other rivets (ribs, etc.) the main riveting issues are that you
don't want to work-harden the rivets, and you don't want to lose
control of the gun/bar.
The settings will invariably be different for different compressors
(due to different cfms at a given psi).
As long as you're about to start riveting, here are a few suggestions:
- Get someone to help you rivet. It's not particularly difficult to do
them yourself (some of the rivets, anyways), but having one guy on the
gun and one guy on the bar really makes things easy, fast, and more
consistent. And by the way, holding the bucking bar is more difficult
than the holding the gun.
- Before riveting, we always check that the bar is behind the right rivet,
by lightening the grip on the gun. When riveting using your nifty
Avery swivel flush set, you can hold the set with your fingers, and it
will never wander.
- When removing rivets, the standard procedure is to pop off the head and
punch out the shaft. I find that punching tends to bend the crap out
of thin metal, like spar flanges, and that if I simply grip the shop
head with a pair of vice grips I can gently work the rivet out --
faster, easier, and no damage.
Well. That was a long post.
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)AOL.COM |
Glen & Judi: I have a Warnke prop on my 3 (135hp) and it is great...i don't
know how the new Warnkes are since Barnard's daughter took over the
operation...Anybody have a new Warnke??? I also have a Performance on my
other 3 (160hp) and that is also great...Performance is run by Bernards son-in
- law who worked with Bernard for quite a few years and was married to his
daughter. but that didn't last and the son-in-law started his own business
using the knowledge he gained working with Bernard...I found Performance to
be rather unusual in that you get what they call a raw prop, put it on and
fly it, then send it back with the changes you would like(if any)...They make
the changes do the final finishing and send it back...When I first ran the
raw prop I could only get 2550 rpm (about 210mph), told them I wanted
2700...Prop came back and ran 2725...I was amazed !!! I now cruise about 215
running at 2600 to 2625 as recommended by Lyc...Lyc says they like the
0-320s to be run on the high side because it gives the best longevity...Seems
to run smoother too...I started at 2350 and slowly settled for the higher
rpm...Probably where the engine and aircraft are happiest together....Didn't
seem to make much differece in gas burn either....Good Luck, Jim Brown, NJ,
2RV-3s and a 4....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Hi Jim
I thought I would send along a plug for a Canadian Prob builder, Colin
Walker of Salmon Arm BC cwalker(at)netcom.ca . I have one of his props on my
4 and it seems to have the necessary performance with a 70 X 70 size. The
big advantage for US builders is that he sells his props in Canadian dollars
(I paid 720 this year) making them very affordable with the exhcange rate.
There are four RV's on our field and three have a Walker prop.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> Hello,
>
> I am at the point of ordering a propeller (wood) for my project and
> interested in knowing what the rest of you guys and gals have had luck
with
> and what you would do different if you could? I have studied all the
> information I can find on the subject, including the propeller comparison
> done several years ago by Van with the RV-6. Looks like the most
efficient
> (wood)
> is the Warnke Prop.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Send me email direct to bakerje(at)kfalls.net
>
> N513J
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | firesleeve on fuel pressure line? |
Did you say you are using 1/4" ID? I think that may be a bit on the big
>side for fuel pressure lines, if you are using AN4 hose.
>
Yes, I did use 1/4" w/ss braid lines for the senders since they fit right in
the fittings of the sender and the pump fitting. They are a bit bigger and
slightly heavier but there were fewer parts needed to mate them at least as
far as I could tell. I think the 1/4" stuff is a little cheaper than the
smaller sizes if I remember correctly.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
Jim Baker wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am at the point of ordering a propeller (wood) for my project and
> interested in knowing what the rest of you guys and gals have had luck with
> and what you would do different if you could? I have studied all the
> information I can find on the subject, including the propeller comparison
> done several years ago by Van with the RV-6. Looks like the most efficient
> (wood)
> is the Warnke Prop.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Send me email direct to bakerje(at)kfalls.net
>
Jim,
A Warnke was on my -4 when I bought it. It was the best of several I
have tried. Unfortunately, Bernie died several years ago. His daughter
is making props, but I don't know how they compare to Bernie's. I have
several friends who speak highly of Amar Demuth (sp?).
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RST intercom for sale |
>I think you will find the Microair has an "always on" intercom system.
>The fellow at the booth said it was an easy matter to hook up a switch,
>and panel mount it, to turn it off when you wanted to.
>
>Larry Mac Donald
>
Yes, and in the documentation for the radio is a schematic (also available
from their web site) showing how to wire the pilot and passenger PTT
switches for the intercom function. They actually show about 4 different
wiring schemes depending on what you need to do with the radio and intercom.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Steel Jig available |
I have a steel free standing wing jig currently set-up to jig two wings at
once and a steel fuselage jig for an RV-4 fuselage.
The wing jig can be used on a 4, 6, and maybe an 8. I'm not positive the 8
uses the same dimentions as the others.
If anyone is interested in them please contact me off list at
PPERRYRV(at)hotmail.com
or 570-333-0952
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling blind rivets |
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filling blind rivets
>
>JB Weld is TWO part. An epoxy!
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
Thanks for correcting my error, Cy -- and others. The brain was not engaged
but the fingers were typing away. JB Weld is indeed a real, two-part epoxy.
Dennis Persyk RV6A N600DP
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 12:13 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Filling blind rivets
>
>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jim Bower <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 10:52 AM
>> Subject: RV-List: Filling blind rivets
>>
>>
>> >
>> >I have been making liberal use of blind rivets in my empennage, and I
>> >realize these will need to be filled. Is there any reason not to fill
>them
>> >with J-B Weld? (That's an epoxy compound similar to if not the same as
>> >ScotchWeld.)
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance!
>> >
>> >Jim Bower
>> >RV-6A N143DJ
>> >St. Louis, MO
>> >
>> I believe JB Weld is a single-component system. As such, it is not an
>> epoxy, or it would cure in the tube. In general, single-component
fillers
>> tend to shrink a bit over time. Epoxy with microballoons will exhibit
the
>> least shrinkage over time. You will need epoxy and microballoons later
in
>> the project so you might as well order some West System stuff from Wicks
>> now.
>> Dennis Persyk N600DP
>> C38 Hampshire, IL
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE Partially complete kit |
what you got here 4 6 8 9 or one of those A model
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
Plumbing supply houses carry them, they are simply baseboard heaters that
have hot water circulating thru them to heat living spaces. A modern version
of a steam radiator. A 6' long baseboard heater is only $30 or so, the
finned tubing works great, I have not had any more water spewing from my air
tools, and the water trap is collecting alot of water now.
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLTDBEEZER(at)AOL.COM |
My 68x66 Props Inc prop turns 2300 static RPM, but on takeoff only turns 1950
RPM. On climbout at 100 mph it turns 2000 rpm, but if I climb at 120 mph it
will turn 2300 RPM. At cruise it will turn slightly over 2700 rpm. Is this
normal? If so, why the lower rpm on takeoff?
Dave Beizer
RV6A 150 HP Test flying (5.0 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI AMP Transducer |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
>
>
> Any one have a RMI Monitor? I tried to call Ron, but he is closed.
> I am trying to trouble shoot my AMP transducer wiring as I get invalid
> reading.
> What I have noted in the manual on the tranducer wire hook-up is the
> following: Black wire to the (+) on the transducer.
> Shielding wire to the (0)on the transducer.
> white wire to the (-) on the transducer.
>
> Can anyone out there confirm or correct that hook up?
Not sure what the "invalid" reading is, but be sure you set the
calibration parameters for the transducer per the manual.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with lotsa RMI stuff)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 top skin question |
Scott:
What's the matter, a little claustrophobic maybe? I actually got back there with
my bucking block and had my son rivet. You can reach most through the lightening
hole in the bulkhead. Sounds like you are getting along.... Hope all is well!
DCA
rv4 n504rv
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> I have finally drilled my top skin to the tops of the bulkheads on my -4.
> My question is about when it comes time to rivet that puppy on. The
> rear-most top bulkhead: how did you guys rivet that thing? Should I face
> the flange aft and squeeze the rivets on or should I leave the flange facing
> forward and use pop rivets. If pop rivets, what would be a good type to
> use? CS4-4? Cherry Max?
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RMI AMP Transducer |
| From: | Wes Hays <whays(at)juno.com> |
Denny,
FWIW,
I have my RMI hooked up and when I test ran the engine everything worked
fine. My amp transducer is wired as follows:
White wire to the (+) on the transducer
Shield to the (0) on the transducer
White wire to the (-) on the transducer.
However I really don't think the wire color is the most important. You
might want to check to make sure that the wire with +10V is hooked to the
positive and the sheild to Signal Ground and the negative to #10 pin on
the RMI for the ammeter.
You might want to check that the sensor is pointed the right direction.
The arrow on the ammeter assembly PC board shows the direction the
current should flow. If you have this installed on the main wire coming
out of the alternator then the arrow will point away from the alternator.
The manual says that shoud the amps read negative during engine ops, turn
the sensor around on the wire.
Hope it works out.
Wes Hays
RV6-A (Painting at last)
Rotan, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT |
12:05:39 PM
I would stay away from the KS tetrahead unit. I used one some years ago and
swaped it out for a bar graph type. I am a analog bigot (sorta) but I will
( and did) cross the line for a digital readout bar graph unit. I outlined
the problems I had with the KS in a prior post. You can retreive it via
Matts archives.......
tcervin(at)valkyrie.net@matronics.com on 08/03/2000 11:16:27 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
I have the room on my panel and sub panels for the Grand Rapids Monitor but
must admit the KS Avionics EGT/CHT does appear to fit with less trouble and
satisfies my "Analog Gauge Fetish".
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
>
>
> Dollar wise this is a good back-up system in your case. Others have this
setup
> as their primary system. What about your realestate ? Do you have the
room
in
> the pannel or radio stack for the LCD....its big. I like the small 2.25
inch
> bar display for CHT/EGT. I choose the GEM 602. Actual numbers are not as
> important (to me) as relative trend and deltas from each cylinder.
Actual
> displayed numbers and switching between cylinders is more workload than
a
> quick glance at a bar graph with all 8 parameters on 4 cylinders is
> displayed..... any anomoly gets your attention quicklyby looking at one
bar
> graph display. This is a blond vs. brunette kind-a-thing I suspect...each
method
> has its pluses & minuses. BTW... I went with a trophy blonde & a GEM
602.
>
>
> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net@matronics.com on 08/02/2000 08:41:17 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
>
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
>
>
> List: I am looking to purchase my last piece for the Panel. I have all
the
> Analog Gauges from Vans with Electric Gyros but need a way to monitor CHT
&
> EGT Temps.
> The monitor from Grand Rapids Technologies seems to give me
what
I
> need at the same price of most CHT-EGT Monitors that only offer the 2
areas
> of information.
> Will I have to install another set of sending units that come
with
> Grand Rapids unit? Can the sending units for the Analog Gauges do double
> duty?
> Hey for about the same price I have backup systems! What say
the
> "Wise Ones" who have been there-done that?
> Tom in Ohio (ELEC. FLAP ACTUATOR
STUFF)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filling blind rivets |
01:42:12 PM
Don't use JB weld. ( Been there, done that, got the tee shirt...) JB is
good stuff. Its not a body filler per say because you can't feather edge it
nor sand it with out making the adjacent aluimun metal go away. Its to
hard. Recommend Poly Fiber Super Fill, its light and sands well and
featheredges nicely and was made for your exact application.
rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com on 08/03/2000 11:49:27 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Filling blind rivets
I have been making liberal use of blind rivets in my empennage, and I
realize these will need to be filled. Is there any reason not to fill them
with J-B Weld? (That's an epoxy compound similar to if not the same as
ScotchWeld.)
Thanks in advance!
Jim Bower
RV-6A N143DJ
St. Louis, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
I have personally seen two cases in the last year when an IFR approved GPS
lost its ability to navigate for a short while. These were two different
aircraft types, with different brands of GPS, on different days, in
different parts of the continent. Once was enroute, the other was on
approach. So, it is only smart to have a VOR or ADF (it depends on the
part of the world which is more useful) as a back up. Single GPS (or VOR)
units can fail, so you should have a back up.
IFR GPSs are much more finicky than VFR GPSs. They are required to do a
lot of fancy stuff to look for possible errors in the calculated position.
If they think they might possibly have a problem, they may stop navigating
in conditions where a VFR GPS would still be fine. Or, maybe the VFR GPS
would tell you it was fine, but it was actually lost. For the IFR units it
was thought better to flag the display, and force you to go to plan B than
to possibly lead you into a mountain with you sitting there fat, dumb and
happy. The bottom line is that IFR GPS nav capability is not there 100% of
the time.
Always have a fall back plan to cover any likely occurence.
Fly safe,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>Bill,
>
> You only need one navigation radio. An ADF will do if all you are going to
>do is navigate via radio beacons. But in the fine wisdom of the FAA, If you
>want to use a GPS you need another radio. An ADF will do in this case too.
> Crazy, huh?
>
> Bob
> RV8#423
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
>
>I've searched the archives and found people use 30-35 psi to rivet the
>empennage together. Is this correct and is it the same for back riveting?
>Just a quickie before the 3x goes to work for the first time.
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>
Steve,
Different make/models of rivet gun need different pressures, so other
peoples experience may not be valid for you. The best bet is to
experiment on some scrap. Start at low pressure, and see what happens.
Crank it up until you can set the rivet with a small number of hits from
the gun (too many hits will work harden the rivet).
The amount of pressure you need will also vary depending on how stiff the
structure is in the area you are working.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff)
khorton(at)cyberus.ca (613) 821-7862 (home)
Ottawa, Canada (613) 952-4319 (work)
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
Does anyone have an wing kit "intact" that they
want to sell ?
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
lm4(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | firesleeve on fuel pressure line? |
09:27:31 AM
Check the archives on this ..I beleive you need to use reducers &
restrictors and get that 1/4" id line out of there & use 3/16 line or
smaller. Don at Airflow Performance is a wealth of knowledge in areas like
this.
pperryrv(at)hotmail.com on 08/03/2000 10:35:03 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: firesleeve on fuel pressure line?
Did you say you are using 1/4" ID? I think that may be a bit on the big
>side for fuel pressure lines, if you are using AN4 hose.
>
Yes, I did use 1/4" w/ss braid lines for the senders since they fit right
in
the fittings of the sender and the pump fitting. They are a bit bigger and
slightly heavier but there were fewer parts needed to mate them at least as
far as I could tell. I think the 1/4" stuff is a little cheaper than the
smaller sizes if I remember correctly.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop question |
--- PLTDBEEZER(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> My 68x66 Props Inc prop turns 2300 static RPM, but on takeoff only
> turns 1950
> RPM. On climbout at 100 mph it turns 2000 rpm, but if I climb at 120
> mph it
> will turn 2300 RPM. At cruise it will turn slightly over 2700 rpm.
> Is this
> normal? If so, why the lower rpm on takeoff?
Sounds like you have the perfect cruise prop for your engine/airframe!
It's turning lower on the ground (called "Static RPM") because the prop
is taking a relatively big bite of air and the engine doesn't have the
HP to swing it any faster. Once in the air and unloaded, the pitch is
such that the engine can turn rated RPMs and deliver rated HP. That's
good (for cruise performance).
The downside is that the pitch is so high the engine can't turn rated
RPMs when loaded - on the ground at takeoff or in a climb. This limits
your takeoff ability (short field/high density altitude) and limits
your climb rates.
Were you to reduce the pitch some, your static RPM would increase, your
climb rate would increase and your takeoff roll would lessen - but the
engine would reach redline faster once in the air and unloaded, and
your cruise speeds will go down.
That's the general theory. How much the numbers will change for a
given pitch change is so much guesswork - even for the prop maker. The
only way to know for sure is to change the pitch and try it.
Experiment!
The decision whether to mess with it at all goes back to mission
defining: Do you fly from high altitude fields... do you fly from
short strips... do you want climb performance or do you want cruise
performance...
With fixed pitch props (and even with constant speed - can you say
"helix?") you have to define the mission and then choose equipment
accordingly.
Good luck!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT |
Thanks for the info and I looked up your Posts in the Archieves!! Boy am I
glad I put the question to the list. Provided I can get the Grand Rapids
unit to fit that is the way I will go.
Tom in Ohio ( Control Stick Stuff)
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
>
>
> I would stay away from the KS tetrahead unit. I used one some years ago
and
> swaped it out for a bar graph type. I am a analog bigot (sorta) but I will
> ( and did) cross the line for a digital readout bar graph unit. I outlined
> the problems I had with the KS in a prior post. You can retreive it via
> Matts archives.......
>
>
> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net@matronics.com on 08/03/2000 11:16:27 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> cc:
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
>
>
> I have the room on my panel and sub panels for the Grand Rapids Monitor
but
> must admit the KS Avionics EGT/CHT does appear to fit with less trouble
and
> satisfies my "Analog Gauge Fetish".
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2000 9:28 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
>
>
> >
> >
> > Dollar wise this is a good back-up system in your case. Others have this
> setup
> > as their primary system. What about your realestate ? Do you have the
> room
> in
> > the pannel or radio stack for the LCD....its big. I like the small
2.25
> inch
> > bar display for CHT/EGT. I choose the GEM 602. Actual numbers are not as
> > important (to me) as relative trend and deltas from each cylinder.
> Actual
> > displayed numbers and switching between cylinders is more workload
than
> a
> > quick glance at a bar graph with all 8 parameters on 4 cylinders is
> > displayed..... any anomoly gets your attention quicklyby looking at one
> bar
> > graph display. This is a blond vs. brunette kind-a-thing I
suspect...each
> method
> > has its pluses & minuses. BTW... I went with a trophy blonde & a GEM
> 602.
> >
> >
> > tcervin(at)valkyrie.net@matronics.com on 08/02/2000 08:41:17 PM
> >
> > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> > Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > cc:
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Engine Monitor VS CHT&EGT
> >
> >
> >
> > List: I am looking to purchase my last piece for the Panel. I have all
> the
> > Analog Gauges from Vans with Electric Gyros but need a way to monitor
CHT
> &
> > EGT Temps.
> > The monitor from Grand Rapids Technologies seems to give me
> what
> I
> > need at the same price of most CHT-EGT Monitors that only offer the 2
> areas
> > of information.
> > Will I have to install another set of sending units that come
> with
> > Grand Rapids unit? Can the sending units for the Analog Gauges do
double
> > duty?
> > Hey for about the same price I have backup systems! What say
> the
> > "Wise Ones" who have been there-done that?
> > Tom in Ohio (ELEC. FLAP ACTUATOR
> STUFF)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
Hola,
Since nobody has corrected my apalling blunder, I will do so myself.
On Thu, 3 Aug 2000, Steve Judd wrote:
>
> If you remember your ground school, Bernoulli's theorem says that
> pressure = 1/2 * density * velocity
2. So, increasing the pressure
> increases the velocity (and the converse is why a wing works).
The above is wrong. Really wrong. Wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong nyah
nyah mr stinky poopy pants go change your diaper wrong.
It's... been hard lately. The guys at work have been calling me two-eyes.
Accusing me of physical labor, of being able to identify hand tools. They
taunt me with elementary algebra, tape linear differential equations to
my back. I... I find myself thinking about sheet metal, during the day,
and have gazed longingly at denim overalls, and cheap American beer,
and... It's... I... I....
-S
(But it's still true that a swivel regulator doesn't change the PSI)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMI AMP Transducer |
Denny Harjehausen wrote:
> What I have noted in the manual on the tranducer wire hook-up is the
> following: Black wire to the (+) on the transducer.
> Shielding wire to the (0)on the transducer.
> white wire to the (-) on the transducer.
I have not completed my hookup yet, but Fig 6 in the Installation Manual
shows that you need a 3 wire plus shielded cable
plus to pin 10
minus to pin 14 (gnd)
O to pin 10 (signal)
shield to pin 1 or 17 or 18
RMI is a great kit.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV6A, still wiring the inst panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
Jeff Point wrote:
> Would a little scriber mark on the rib web do any damage?
> If so, what other method works well, and will survive the
> etch/alodine/priming process?
Very early on I tried the one punch , two punch method, but I could never
remember if it was the left/right or top/bottom. I tried the electric
etching pen, but I could not write consistently.
I purchased a 1/8" metal stamping kit, letters and numbers, from a local
industrial tool supplier( about $15 and $45). On the wing parts, I punched
the station number, i.e. "L103". On the fuselage parts, I stamped the part
numbers, i.e. "605A". Punch on the area where you can see it while it is
being installed. On small angle brackets, punch the number of the 'mother
part". Always punch in an area of low stress, at the ends of the spar
tips, ends of rib flanges, trailing corners of skins.
This method has helped me find the small parts months after I have fitted
and painted them. One day I was fitting the elevators on the horizontal
stab when I noticed the punching on stab skin said "L" and the elev said
"R". I had reversed the parts and luckily noticed this before I drilled the
horns.
The solution may be a bit expensive, but then you can make dog tags for
Christmas gifts and save a bundal.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk VA, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
> > Would a little scriber mark on the rib web do any damage?
> > If so, what other method works well, and will survive the
> > etch/alodine/priming process?
I find a package of mailing tags, the ones with the re-enforced ring,
and about 6 inches of safety wire (per tag) works well.
I remove the strings from the tags, wire the tag to the part through
one of the several holes I've drilled and write the part number or
description (Top left long. to F606) on it. If you'll run the wire
through a hole, twist an inch from the ends, put on the tag and twist
closed, that'll keep the tag away from the part whilst you paint it.
Clean it, paint it and just before installing into the right spot, cut
away the wire tag.
Cheep. Effective. Now if I could figure out a good use for hundreds
of
6-inch pieces of really good quality string...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
I know it's true that, if you file IFR and need an alternate, the alternate must
have at least one
published IAP that is NOT a GPS approach, and, of course, the airplane must also
have the
appropriate equipment for the non-GPS approach. What says that you cannot file
IFR to a primary
airport that has only a GPS approach? I don't mean to be argumentative, but I
think you are wrong
about this and it's an important point. In such a case, non-GPS equipment, a VOR,
for example, is
worthless. If you can't make the GPS approach and need to go to your alternate,
you obviously need
non-GPS equipment, but not for the primary airport.
Getting back to the original question about flying IFR with no alternative to the
GPS, I think no
serious instrument rated pilot would even consider it. Moreover, one might think
one is only going
to punch through thin stratus from time to time, "light IFR" as I think someone
described it, but
don't be fooled into thinking it's all so predictable. When the temperature drops
to the dew point,
for example, you might find yourself in deep doo-doo very quickly. I recall the
story of a good
friend of mine, a retired NASA experimental test pilot, who witnessed an almost
instantaneous (i.e.,
less than 15 minutes) development of a solid cloud layer over a very large (hundreds
of miles) area
that was not forecast.
My advice to any RV builder interested in IFR flight is to install a minimum of
four boxes: (1)
Audio panel, marker beacon receiver, and intercom, (2) IFR approach-certified GPS/com,
(3) VOR/com
with glideslope receiver, and (4) mode C transponder. A four box stack fits nicely
into an RV-6/6A
panel. This equipment list will enable one to shoot an approach at virtually any
airport in the
United States; moreover, it will enable one to shoot the approach with the lowest
minimums as well.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
"InterMail vM.4.01.03.00 201-229-121" wrote:
>
> If you have an IFR GPS you must have an alternate navigation system installed
(ADF or VOR) and if
> you file IFR your primary and alternate airport must have the ground equipment
for the alternate
> equipment. This for the minimum equipment needed. You must decide what to use
based on your type
> of flying and what you want your workload to be.
>
> Boyd
> RV-S6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scribing aluminum |
11:23:54 AM
I have used the sharpie ultra-fine markers on aluminum and primed with
Mar-Hide primer and Sherwin-Williams wash primer. Both primers allow the
marker scribbles to show thru....really good. I don't use two primers, I
just switched over the years depending on whats in the shop any given
time......Both primers are decent primers. (No primer wars please)
rvreynolds(at)macs.net on 08/04/2000 10:33:55 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scribing aluminum
Jeff Point wrote:
> Would a little scriber mark on the rib web do any damage?
> If so, what other method works well, and will survive the
> etch/alodine/priming process?
Very early on I tried the one punch , two punch method, but I could never
remember if it was the left/right or top/bottom. I tried the electric
etching pen, but I could not write consistently.
I purchased a 1/8" metal stamping kit, letters and numbers, from a local
industrial tool supplier( about $15 and $45). On the wing parts, I punched
the station number, i.e. "L103". On the fuselage parts, I stamped the part
numbers, i.e. "605A". Punch on the area where you can see it while it is
being installed. On small angle brackets, punch the number of the 'mother
part". Always punch in an area of low stress, at the ends of the spar
tips, ends of rib flanges, trailing corners of skins.
This method has helped me find the small parts months after I have fitted
and painted them. One day I was fitting the elevators on the horizontal
stab when I noticed the punching on stab skin said "L" and the elev said
"R". I had reversed the parts and luckily noticed this before I drilled the
horns.
The solution may be a bit expensive, but then you can make dog tags for
Christmas gifts and save a bundal.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk VA, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop question |
I had the same exact scenario on my 180 Hp with Sensenich prop. In fact I aborted
my first takeoff when I noticed the engine was only turning 1700-1800 rpm. Called
Van's and They said if I could turn 2200+ on static it should fly. Well it flew
just fine and I learned to live with the low rpm on the takeoff roll. The theory
we came up with was that the prop was cavitating during static runup allowing the
higher 2200+ rpm and once you started rolling the prop got a good bite of air
with no cavitation (stalling) and lugged the engine down.
Good theory eh?, Well at 25 hr. all was normal except that once leveled out the
engine was still only turning 1800 rpm, full throttle with normal indicated
airspeeds. So, I junked the tach and bought a good american made one and now I
see 2200+ on takeoff, 2400-2500 during 100 mph climb and 2700 rpm full throttle
at 11500'. or 2700 rpm throttled back below 11500'.
Moral of the story. If you have a mechanical tach check it for accuracy. My 1st
tach was a Chinese model sold by Van's, new one is Mitchell that has 40 hr. since
installed and still works great.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
PLTDBEEZER(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> My 68x66 Props Inc prop turns 2300 static RPM, but on takeoff only turns 1950
> RPM. On climbout at 100 mph it turns 2000 rpm, but if I climb at 120 mph it
> will turn 2300 RPM. At cruise it will turn slightly over 2700 rpm. Is this
> normal? If so, why the lower rpm on takeoff?
>
> Dave Beizer
> RV6A 150 HP Test flying (5.0 hrs)
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firesleeve on fuel pressure line? |
I believe that it is a good idea to firesleeve the fuel pressure transducer
line. It has fuel and can burn. As for the 1/4 line, I would not worry about it
as long as you have installed some sort of restrictor fitting. I bought my
firesleeve from Wick's.
Gary Zilik
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Check the archives on this ..I beleive you need to use reducers &
> restrictors and get that 1/4" id line out of there & use 3/16 line or
> smaller. Don at Airflow Performance is a wealth of knowledge in areas like
> this.
>
> pperryrv(at)hotmail.com on 08/03/2000 10:35:03 PM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: firesleeve on fuel pressure line?
>
>
> Did you say you are using 1/4" ID? I think that may be a bit on the big
> >side for fuel pressure lines, if you are using AN4 hose.
> >
>
> Yes, I did use 1/4" w/ss braid lines for the senders since they fit right
> in
> the fittings of the sender and the pump fitting. They are a bit bigger and
> slightly heavier but there were fewer parts needed to mate them at least as
> far as I could tell. I think the 1/4" stuff is a little cheaper than the
> smaller sizes if I remember correctly.
>
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 N154PK wiring and pre paint finish work.
>
> _-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Dont forget a 5th box. Lots of IFR in an RV will definately call for an
autopilot of some sort.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
> I know it's true that, if you file IFR and need an alternate, the
alternate must have at least one
> published IAP that is NOT a GPS approach, and, of course, the airplane
must also have the
> appropriate equipment for the non-GPS approach. What says that you cannot
file IFR to a primary
> airport that has only a GPS approach? I don't mean to be argumentative,
but I think you are wrong
> about this and it's an important point. In such a case, non-GPS
equipment, a VOR, for example, is
> worthless. If you can't make the GPS approach and need to go to your
alternate, you obviously need
> non-GPS equipment, but not for the primary airport.
>
> Getting back to the original question about flying IFR with no alternative
to the GPS, I think no
> serious instrument rated pilot would even consider it. Moreover, one
might think one is only going
> to punch through thin stratus from time to time, "light IFR" as I think
someone described it, but
> don't be fooled into thinking it's all so predictable. When the
temperature drops to the dew point,
> for example, you might find yourself in deep doo-doo very quickly. I
recall the story of a good
> friend of mine, a retired NASA experimental test pilot, who witnessed an
almost instantaneous (i.e.,
> less than 15 minutes) development of a solid cloud layer over a very large
(hundreds of miles) area
> that was not forecast.
>
> My advice to any RV builder interested in IFR flight is to install a
minimum of four boxes: (1)
> Audio panel, marker beacon receiver, and intercom, (2) IFR
approach-certified GPS/com, (3) VOR/com
> with glideslope receiver, and (4) mode C transponder. A four box stack
fits nicely into an RV-6/6A
> panel. This equipment list will enable one to shoot an approach at
virtually any airport in the
> United States; moreover, it will enable one to shoot the approach with the
lowest minimums as well.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Jack Abell
>
> "InterMail vM.4.01.03.00 201-229-121" wrote:
>
201-229-121) with ESMTP
> >
> > If you have an IFR GPS you must have an alternate navigation system
installed (ADF or VOR) and if
> > you file IFR your primary and alternate airport must have the ground
equipment for the alternate
> > equipment. This for the minimum equipment needed. You must decide what
to use based on your type
> > of flying and what you want your workload to be.
> >
> > Boyd
> > RV-S6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Hi all,
OK, let this VFR only RV'er ask a stupid question. (I know I shouldn't open my
mouth to prove my ignorance here...) If your going to put in a VOR/ILS/MB, why
bother with the IFR certified GPS, with the $200/mo updates. If I understand
from the previous discussions, a single VOR is acceptable (but maybe not wise)
for IFR flight.
Why couldn't you use a VFR GPS to "supplement your situational awareness" and legally
fly off the VOR? Is the IFR GPS fundamentally different in the way it
works than the VFR GPS. I'm assuming that any GPS approach would probably also
have a VOR approach.
Stupid minds want to know...
Laird (VFR RV-6 w/ no IFR training) N515L
SoCal - Waiting for enlightenment
snip
My advice to any RV builder interested in IFR flight is to install a minimum of
four boxes: (1)
Audio panel, marker beacon receiver, and intercom, (2) IFR approach-certified GPS/com,
(3) VOR/com
with glideslope receiver, and (4) mode C transponder. A four box stack fits nicely
into an RV-6/6A
panel. This equipment list will enable one to shoot an approach at virtually any
airport in the
United States; moreover, it will enable one to shoot the approach with the lowest
minimums as well.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
In a message dated 8/3/00 3:00:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
shurlbut(at)island.net writes:
<< I've searched the archives and found people use 30-35 psi to rivet the
empennage together >>
Since the actual pressure at the gun is going to vary depending on the length
and size of hoses you are using, you should make up a few test panels and
try different pressures before you start on the real stuff. Start low, like
22 or 30 psi, and work up until you get to a pressure that sets the rivet
with a short burst (to avoid work hardening the rivet) and the gun is still
controllable. For example, because of long hoses, I find that I can use 40
psi for AD3s and 60 psi for AD4s, measured at the tank, with my 3x gun.
Thats a lot higher pressure than most apparenty use but it works for me. You
have to figure out what works for you and its best not to start the learning
curve on real parts.
Harry Crosby
-6 slider, ready to start on canopy trimming (worry, worry).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>OK, let this VFR only RV'er ask a stupid question. (I know I shouldn't
>open my mouth to prove my ignorance here...) If your going to put in a
>VOR/ILS/MB, why bother with the IFR certified GPS, with the $200/mo
>updates. If I understand from the previous discussions, a single VOR is
>acceptable (but maybe not wise) for IFR flight.
>
>Why couldn't you use a VFR GPS to "supplement your situational awareness"
>and legally fly off the VOR? Is the IFR GPS fundamentally different in
>the way it works than the VFR GPS. I'm assuming that any GPS approach
>would probably also have a VOR approach.
>
>Stupid minds want to know...
>
At least in my part of the country, there are many airports that have GPS
approaches only. Sometimes because the airport is isolated and not busy
enough for ground based navaids and sometimes for other reasons.
I was interested to see the recently published Leadville, CO approach.
It leads you zigzagging right down the valley with 14,000 foot peaks on
both sides. MDA is 11,360 feet. A perfect application for a GPS
approach where there was previously no instrument approach.
I have a VFR only GPS in my airplane and find it invaluable for IFR
flying but unfortunately I can't fly those neat GPS approaches.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
I wanted to pass on a service to those who have flying RVs and live/operate
around the Midwest,
A friend of mine, Glen David, is an AP and AI for United Airlines. He also
built and flies a RV-6 out of Indianapolis. He recently purchased dynamic
prop balancing gear and is beginning to offer the service part-time. He
came out this morning to do my RV-6 (160 hp with Sensenich metal prop) and
the effect was simply staggering. I cannot believe the difference. I
really didn't think that I had that bad of a vibration problem but once
balanced, the effects were quite noticeable. I can't wait to fly it this
weekend to check it out in the air.
Glen is one of the nicest, helpful, and knowledgeable guys I've run across.
He is starting to balance props on the side and he will travel to your
airport, within reason. I am a believer now of the benefits of prop
balancing. I highly recommend it and I've got to believe that the reduced
wear and tear on the hinges, exhaust, engine mounts, carb heat box,
instruments, etc. will pay for this over time, not the mention the smoother
ride.
If you think you'd like to experience the benefits of dynamic prop balancing
first hand, respond to me off-list and I'll put you in touch with him. I
don't think he's established a firm price yet and I'm sure it depends
somewhat on how far he has to travel. My guess is the price will be around
$200. I think it's well worth it.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (40 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP)
http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | VM1000 Manifold Pressure Sensor |
All you VM1000 RV-8(A) builders out there...
Please help!
Where in the heck did you mount the manifold pressure sensor?
According to the manual you must have it above the point where you tap the
engine to attach the sensor hose ( mine is the standard tap off of #3 cylinder
)
and it MUST be inside the cockpit and away from all that heat. The only
location that I can think of puts in inside the forward baggage compartment
where "baggage" is sure to shear the little plastic goobers right off of the
sensor.
Thx,
- Jim
RV-8AQ ( engine stuff )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
02:30:37 PM
After a few tens of rivets you can tell by sound & feel the right set up
pressure for your compresser/hose/regulator/gun. I find that test firing
my river gun into a block of wood with some light forward pressure for a
few "BLAPS" gives me enough feedback. The sound & recoil tell me my
pressure settings. When I bother to find the regulator guage and read it I
find 33 lbs for my -3 rivets & about 41 lbs for my -4 rivets. I also use
the Cleavland light-weight hose & quick coupler ends. Its real nice not to
support the real hose with the rivet gun. The Cleavland hose makes this
manageable.
HCRV6(at)aol.com on 08/04/2000 01:26:42 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting PSI
In a message dated 8/3/00 3:00:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
shurlbut(at)island.net writes:
<< I've searched the archives and found people use 30-35 psi to rivet the
empennage together >>
Since the actual pressure at the gun is going to vary depending on the
length
and size of hoses you are using, you should make up a few test panels and
try different pressures before you start on the real stuff. Start low,
like
22 or 30 psi, and work up until you get to a pressure that sets the rivet
with a short burst (to avoid work hardening the rivet) and the gun is still
controllable. For example, because of long hoses, I find that I can use 40
psi for AD3s and 60 psi for AD4s, measured at the tank, with my 3x gun.
Thats a lot higher pressure than most apparenty use but it works for me.
You
have to figure out what works for you and its best not to start the
learning
curve on real parts.
Harry Crosby
-6 slider, ready to start on canopy trimming (worry, worry).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 Manifold Pressure Sensor |
I did not like the options that they gave us to mount them, I really don't
want a lot going through the baggage compartment. I mounted mine on the
firewall, inside the engine compartment. I know that they say not to, but
I did not like the alternatives. I also mounted my processor in the
baggage compartment and built a cover to go over it to protect it if I use
the forward baggage compartment. You could mount it behind the instrument
panel and run your hose along with your wiring harness. You will have
plenty of wires going through the baggage compartment.
You can see pictures of my installation on my web site.
>
>
>All you VM1000 RV-8(A) builders out there...
>
>Please help!
>
>Where in the heck did you mount the manifold pressure sensor?
>
>According to the manual you must have it above the point where you tap the
>engine to attach the sensor hose ( mine is the standard tap off of #3
cylinder )
>and it MUST be inside the cockpit and away from all that heat. The only
>location that I can think of puts in inside the forward baggage compartment
>where "baggage" is sure to shear the little plastic goobers right off of the
>sensor.
>
>Thx,
>
>- Jim
>RV-8AQ ( engine stuff )
>N89JA (reserved)
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Mode C Code Output |
I am seeking a complete list of the ICAO A1, A2, A4, B1,B2,B4,C1,C2,C4
standard code for secondary surveillance radar altitude
transmissions....that means...what comes out of my mode-c encoder that feeds
the transponder in the RV6A. I have only a partial list and cannot recall
the encoding scheme for various altitudes.
Can someone point me to a source...want to make a "goodie" for the RV.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Oil Pressures |
Awhile ago someone asked for a description of the oil system on our
Lycomings used in out RV aircraft. This is a brief one based on my
understanding of it.
The oil pressure is supplied by a gear driven pump which is part of the
accessory housing. The amount of pressure that the pump can develop is
determined by the condition of the pump and the clearances of the bearings
such as rod bearings and crankshaft main bearings. Oil is picked up by the
pump from the sump through a screen and fed under pressure to the bearings
through passages in the crankcase and accessory housing as well as to the
valve train.The pistons and cylinders are lubricated by oil being sprayed
from the crankshaft bearings The oil drains back into the sump and completes
the cycle.
The oil pressure is controlled by the pressure relief valve. There are at
least two types that I know off. One is adjustable with a wrench or a
screwdriver and the other requires spacers. The proper way to adjust the
pressure is run the engine to get 80 C and then adjust to the desired
pressure. Better still would be to fly it to get normal operating temps then
adjust. For me that is 80 PSI at say 2400 RPM, this gives more than adequate
lubrication. The Lycoming manual quotes 95 PSI maximum, this would be with
the oil at the thermostatic setting of 85C. Higher pressures than 80 PSI
only increases the power required to turn the pump plus adding more stress
to the entire system. The minimum PSI in normal cruise is 55.
Idle pressure is controlled by the condition of the engine and here Lycoming
says 25 PSI.
The exception to this would be on the first start of the day when the
viscosity of the oil is higher, this well develop pressures higher than your
relief valve setting until the engine gets up to normal operating
temperatures. For this condition Lycoming allows 115 PSI MAX for the first
takeoff
A detailed drawing of the oil system is in the overhaul manual along with
all the other good stuff that we should all know if we are to properly
maintain these engines. The operator's manual plus the overhaul manual
should really be part of our RV library.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Pressures |
Now that is what I call educational. Thank you sir.
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 4:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Pressures
>
> Awhile ago someone asked for a description of the oil system on our
> Lycomings used in out RV aircraft. This is a brief one based on my
> understanding of it.
>
> The oil pressure is supplied by a gear driven pump which is part of the
> accessory housing. The amount of pressure that the pump can develop is
> determined by the condition of the pump and the clearances of the bearings
> such as rod bearings and crankshaft main bearings. Oil is picked up by the
> pump from the sump through a screen and fed under pressure to the bearings
> through passages in the crankcase and accessory housing as well as to the
> valve train.The pistons and cylinders are lubricated by oil being sprayed
> from the crankshaft bearings The oil drains back into the sump and
completes
> the cycle.
>
> The oil pressure is controlled by the pressure relief valve. There are at
> least two types that I know off. One is adjustable with a wrench or a
> screwdriver and the other requires spacers. The proper way to adjust the
> pressure is run the engine to get 80 C and then adjust to the desired
> pressure. Better still would be to fly it to get normal operating temps
then
> adjust. For me that is 80 PSI at say 2400 RPM, this gives more than
adequate
> lubrication. The Lycoming manual quotes 95 PSI maximum, this would be with
> the oil at the thermostatic setting of 85C. Higher pressures than 80 PSI
> only increases the power required to turn the pump plus adding more stress
> to the entire system. The minimum PSI in normal cruise is 55.
>
> Idle pressure is controlled by the condition of the engine and here
Lycoming
> says 25 PSI.
>
> The exception to this would be on the first start of the day when the
> viscosity of the oil is higher, this well develop pressures higher than
your
> relief valve setting until the engine gets up to normal operating
> temperatures. For this condition Lycoming allows 115 PSI MAX for the first
> takeoff
>
> A detailed drawing of the oil system is in the overhaul manual along with
> all the other good stuff that we should all know if we are to properly
> maintain these engines. The operator's manual plus the overhaul manual
> should really be part of our RV library.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Pressures |
Oh yeah...what I meant to say was: Thank you sir, may I have
another....like how a constant speed prop works.
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 4:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Pressures
>
> Awhile ago someone asked for a description of the oil system on our
> Lycomings used in out RV aircraft. This is a brief one based on my
> understanding of it.
>
> The oil pressure is supplied by a gear driven pump which is part of the
> accessory housing. The amount of pressure that the pump can develop is
> determined by the condition of the pump and the clearances of the bearings
> such as rod bearings and crankshaft main bearings. Oil is picked up by the
> pump from the sump through a screen and fed under pressure to the bearings
> through passages in the crankcase and accessory housing as well as to the
> valve train.The pistons and cylinders are lubricated by oil being sprayed
> from the crankshaft bearings The oil drains back into the sump and
completes
> the cycle.
>
> The oil pressure is controlled by the pressure relief valve. There are at
> least two types that I know off. One is adjustable with a wrench or a
> screwdriver and the other requires spacers. The proper way to adjust the
> pressure is run the engine to get 80 C and then adjust to the desired
> pressure. Better still would be to fly it to get normal operating temps
then
> adjust. For me that is 80 PSI at say 2400 RPM, this gives more than
adequate
> lubrication. The Lycoming manual quotes 95 PSI maximum, this would be with
> the oil at the thermostatic setting of 85C. Higher pressures than 80 PSI
> only increases the power required to turn the pump plus adding more stress
> to the entire system. The minimum PSI in normal cruise is 55.
>
> Idle pressure is controlled by the condition of the engine and here
Lycoming
> says 25 PSI.
>
> The exception to this would be on the first start of the day when the
> viscosity of the oil is higher, this well develop pressures higher than
your
> relief valve setting until the engine gets up to normal operating
> temperatures. For this condition Lycoming allows 115 PSI MAX for the first
> takeoff
>
> A detailed drawing of the oil system is in the overhaul manual along with
> all the other good stuff that we should all know if we are to properly
> maintain these engines. The operator's manual plus the overhaul manual
> should really be part of our RV library.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
I mailed my pictures of the cooler installation to Charlie Kuss yesterday,
he has been good enough to forward them to anyone interested.
We have been running afternoon temps of around 90-100 F this last few days.
Doing touch and goes the oil temp stayed on the vernotherm setting. After
three touch and goes climbed to 9000 at 120 indicated, the oil temp reached
190 going through 6000 and returned to 180 before reaching 9000. This was
done maintaining 75% power as long as possible. The airport elevation here
is 1720.
Did some quick calculations on difference in air volume going through the
cooler on firewall with 3" scat versus my installation with a 4 X5 3/4
opening. If correct it looks like around 5 versus 23 sq. in.
Charlie should have the pics by the middle of the week.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
Hi all,
Does anybody have any "REAL" (as in actual) good speed/climb data for an RV-6(a)0-360/72FM
prop with 85" of pitch? If you do have some good data to share,
it would be good to know the weight at which you achieved those numbers.
My RV-6 has the 83" version and I'm trying to figure out what the speed gain/climb
decrease would be by going to the 85". Both I and some of the others I've
talked with can easily overspeed the engine anywhere up to the 11-12K range.
That means it's underpitched by a fair amount, but I have the feeling that the
83" may be a good comprimise prop, but I would like a little data to back it
up.
To anybody in the Southwest, it would be real cool to get some side by side numbers.
Anyone......?
Laird (so much data to take, so little money for fuel) RV-6
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Even if you have all the rest of the goodies, you still want an IFR approach-certified
GPS because there are many airports with no other published IAP. Moreover,
enroute IFR flight is made simpler and easier by GPS and situational awareness
is enhanced. If you are flying a VOR approach, you often need either DME
or cross radials
to determine your position on the approach course. An IFR approach-certified GPS
is an adequate, legal substitute for DME or a second VOR. It also substitutes
under certain conditions for an ADF.
When flying IFR, you can use a VFR-only GPS to supplement your IFR navigation equipment
and, again, to enhance your situational awareness. I do that routinely
in rental airplanes. When flying VFR, a VFR-only GPS is a great way to navigate,
although handhelds have some physical installation problems.
As Kevin Horton pointed out, an IFR approach-certified GPS has built-in safeguards
against errors; moreover, it will not fail because of dead batteries or the
antenna falling off the windshield or your passenger getting his feet tangled
up in the antenna lead or the lead being pulled out of the body of the unit.
Handheld VFR GPSs
are Rube Goldberg devices at best, subject to failure for several reasons that
don't even apply to the panel-mounted models. IFR approach certification also
brings with it additional safeguards that may not be present in the VFR models.
Your assumption that all GPS approaches also have VOR approaches, while not exactly
clear to me, is not correct. There are many GPS stand-alone approaches and
more are being published as we speak. It is true that a VOR or VOR/DME approach
may have a GPS overlay or may be a Phase III approach, which means that
one may fly the
approach with either equipment type. It is also true that a given runway at an
airport may have both a VOR approach and a GPS approach that are quite different
and that may have different minimums.
Finally, an aircraft equipped with one VOR and no GPS or other navigation equipment
might make me a little nervous, but not much; on the other hand, an aircraft
equipped with one VOR and one IFR approach-certified GPS certainly would not.
In fact, I would much prefer it to an aircraft with two VORs and no GPS because
it enables me
to fly approaches into many more airports. The same is not true of an aircraft
equipped with only GPS, even with two GPSs, for the reasons Kevin Horton described.
GPSs sometimes just quit navigating, even serviceable ones, which implies
that sometimes two, serviceable, independent GPSs will both quit at the same
time, so GPS
backup for GPS is not the answer. Finally, you may not use a VFR-only or even
some IFR-certified GPSs to fly a GPS approach. Flying a GPS approach requires
an IFR approach-certified GPS. Even flying a VOR approach, say, requires an
IFR approach-certified GPS to substitute for DME or a second VOR or an NDB.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> OK, let this VFR only RV'er ask a stupid question. (I know I shouldn't open my
mouth to prove my ignorance here...) If your going to put in a VOR/ILS/MB, why
bother with the IFR certified GPS, with the $200/mo updates. If I understand
from the previous discussions, a single VOR is acceptable (but maybe not wise)
for IFR flight.
>
> Why couldn't you use a VFR GPS to "supplement your situational awareness" and
legally fly off the VOR? Is the IFR GPS fundamentally different in the way it
works than the VFR GPS. I'm assuming that any GPS approach would probably also
have a VOR approach.
>
> Stupid minds want to know...
>
> Laird (VFR RV-6 w/ no IFR training) N515L
> SoCal - Waiting for enlightenment
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mode C Code Output |
>
>I am seeking a complete list of the ICAO A1, A2, A4, B1,B2,B4,C1,C2,C4
>standard code for secondary surveillance radar altitude
>transmissions....that means...what comes out of my mode-c encoder that feeds
>the transponder in the RV6A. I have only a partial list and cannot recall
>the encoding scheme for various altitudes.
>
>Can someone point me to a source...want to make a "goodie" for the RV.
Try . . .
http://www.airsport-corp.com/modecascii.txt
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
Laird,
Really enjoyed talking with you at Arlington and looking over your "6".
I have an offer for you.
I have a new 85" Sensenich that I haven't installed yet. If you would like to find
out if it's what you want, fly up here (South San Jose) and bolt it on, fly
it, and get real numbers. The Margaritas are cold (after flying of course) and
Reid Hillveiw is easy to get into.
Garry, RV6 still finishing.
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anybody have any "REAL" (as in actual) good speed/climb data for an RV-6(a)0-360/72FM
prop with 85" of pitch? If you do have some good data to share,
it would be good to know the weight at which you achieved those numbers.
>
> My RV-6 has the 83" version and I'm trying to figure out what the speed gain/climb
decrease would be by going to the 85". Both I and some of the others I've
talked with can easily overspeed the engine anywhere up to the 11-12K range.
That means it's underpitched by a fair amount, but I have the feeling that the
83" may be a good comprimise prop, but I would like a little data to back it
up.
>
> To anybody in the Southwest, it would be real cool to get some side by side numbers.
Anyone......?
>
> Laird (so much data to take, so little money for fuel) RV-6
> SoCal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> I am at the point of ordering a propeller (wood) for my project and
> interested in knowing what the rest of you guys and gals have had luck
with
> and what you would do different if you could? I have studied all the
> information I can find on the subject, including the propeller comparison
> done several years ago by Van with the RV-6. Looks like the most
efficient
> (wood)
> is the Warnke Prop.
Jim, I have a Warnke 72/72 Almost Constant Speed on my 160 hp RV-6. Its
best feature is that is a very smooth prop. I was able to borrow my hangar
mate's Sensenich (RV-4, same engine) for one flight. The Sensenich gave me
about 7-8 mph in top speed and about 200-300 fpm better in climb. The prop
was noticeably rougher, but I expect the vibration would be better if the
prop had been dynamically balanced.
Two other RV-6's ( a 180+hp and a 160hp) at our airport have Ayemar Demuth
props that work really well.
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Jon Johanson Fund |
The following are the contributors to the fund since my post of July 23/00
JERRY ISLER
MARK PHILLIPS
DONALD DIEHL
RANDALL HENDERSON
LAWRENCE BOWEN
ROY VOSBERG
WAYNE WILLIAMS
PAT HATCH
This makes a total of 55 so far, hope we can do better than this, only four
weeks left to Van's Home Coming.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rivet Guns/PSI - Interesting Facts-Long |
Hello everyone,
After all the previous posts I finally had the opportunity to do a little
research on a few of the different rivet guns when a friend gave me his Taylor
3x after buying a CP 3x, so here goes.
When we buy surplus rivet guns from the major aerospace manufacturers we
basically see two types that I'll generically categorize as CP's/CP clones and
Ingersoll Rand's/IR clones. The CP clones primarily include the U.S. Industrial
guns. The IR (AVC) clones are the APT/JIFFY Model 200-700 guns. We sometimes see
the Cleco guns and they are equivalent to the best out there. Van's also
references rivet guns in the manuals.
All the 2x guns typically hit somewhere around 25-2600 blows per minute at 90
PSI. The 3x
guns typically hit around 21-2200 blows per minute at 90 PSI. I took apart eight
(8) rivet guns: a CP2x, a CP3x, a U.S. Industrial 3x, a Taylor 3x, an AVC
12(3x), a Model 200 (2x), a Model 300 (3x), and a Sioux 270 (3x). I found the
following:
1. The CP 2x piston weighs 1.0 oz.
2. The Model 200 piston weighs 1.4 oz
3. The CP 3x piston weighs 1.2 oz
4. The U. S. Industrial 3x piston weighs 1.2 oz
5. The Taylor 3x piston weighs 1.2 oz.
6. The AVC 12 piston weighs 1.7 oz.
7. The Model 300 piston weighs 1.7 oz.
8. The Sioux 270 piston weighs 1.7 oz.
With extremely minor machining differences, the pistons on the AVC 12, Model
300, and Sioux 270 are the same. The barrels on each of those guns is the same,
again with the minor differences. The same basically holds true for the pistons
on the CP & CP clones, although the machining on the Taylor piston is noticeably
different. Finally, I took a file to each of the pistons. The file skipped off
all the pistons (hardened steel) except for the Taylor. I easily cut at least a
1/8" groove in the piston of the Taylor without any effort.
I'm not going into the valving systems on these guns. Each is manufactured to
operate within different pressure ranges and to work in conjunction with the
trigger system. If the manufacturer is recommending a certain pressure it's
probably required to optimize the performance of the tool. Suffice it to say
that the differences in the pistons alone explains a lot about the different
models. Remember, even though each of these guns is made to set equivalent
rivets (1/8, 3/16, etc.) for their size group (2x, 3x, etc.), they're all
different tools. One person's experience may not apply to you, but there are
good reference points to start from.
Regulators/Swivels - I personally like the swivel, but found that it's not
always necessary with the light weight hose like Cleaveland sells. I prefer the
Chicago Pneumatic style brass regulator to the round regulators because I've
seen the round type get bumped unknowingly & change pressure. The CP style has
the saw tooth locking mechanism that prevents this. I still prefer mounting two
(2) pressure regulators on the bench, though, one set at 90 PSI & one set for
the rivet gun. Less likely to make pressure mistakes, only costs a few bucks
more, you don't have anything heavy sitting at the back end of the gun, & you
get more accurate pressure at the tool.
No one has mentioned bucking bars either, and different weights will affect the
operation.
***You can always recycle scrap aluminum, so the cost of learning your tool is
really pretty cheap.***
Blue Skies!
Jack Textor wrote:
>
> Steve,
> I know that this will draw some flak and everybody has their own opinion,
> but.....after talking with the manufacturer and distributors of Taylor guns,
> they tell me always use 90psi and use a regulator/swivel at the gun. So
> there ya go..
> Jack Textor
> RV-8 Rudder
> Des Moines, IA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
Steve,
There, there... it's okay... just buy yourself a new pocket protector
and you'll get over it.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
While not exactly RV related, I would like to ask a couple questions to
anyone qualified to answer such as CFI's or "Das Fed" (if he's still out
there).
FAR61.56 (d) states "A person who has, within the period specified in
paragraph (c) (24 months) of this section, satisfactorily completed a pilot
proficiency check conducted by the FAA, an approved pilot check airman, or a
U.S. Armed Force, for a pilot certificate, rating, or operating priviledge,
need not accomplish the flight review required by this section."
Questions:
Is a CFI an "approved pilot check airman"?
Is a tailwheel endorsement or complex endorsement an 'operating priviledge"?
Thanks in advance
Brian Eckstein
6A finishing details, details,......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Just to add a couple of more points to Jack's excellent input, another
advantage of having IFR certified GPS on board is to enable direct-to
clearances and straight-in approaches (legally) which kind of speeds things
up a little bit. And the reason you can't back up GPS with GPS is that you
may not always have RAIM. In other words, certain conditions can exist at
your destination that would make GPS unuseable, e.g., in mountainous terrain
you might not have enough satellites visible high enough above the horizon
at the time of your arrival to clear the mountains to give reliable
geometry. This would affect all GPS's even when everything was operating
normally, so you would have to have another system as backup.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: John B. Abell <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Only IFR
>
> Even if you have all the rest of the goodies, you still want an IFR
approach-certified GPS because there are many airports with no other
published IAP. Moreover, enroute IFR flight is made simpler and easier by
GPS and situational awareness is enhanced. If you are flying a VOR
approach, you often need either DME or cross radials
> to determine your position on the approach course. An IFR
approach-certified GPS is an adequate, legal substitute for DME or a second
VOR. It also substitutes under certain conditions for an ADF.
>
> When flying IFR, you can use a VFR-only GPS to supplement your IFR
navigation equipment and, again, to enhance your situational awareness. I
do that routinely in rental airplanes. When flying VFR, a VFR-only GPS is a
great way to navigate, although handhelds have some physical installation
problems.
>
> As Kevin Horton pointed out, an IFR approach-certified GPS has built-in
safeguards against errors; moreover, it will not fail because of dead
batteries or the antenna falling off the windshield or your passenger
getting his feet tangled up in the antenna lead or the lead being pulled out
of the body of the unit. Handheld VFR GPSs
> are Rube Goldberg devices at best, subject to failure for several reasons
that don't even apply to the panel-mounted models. IFR approach
certification also brings with it additional safeguards that may not be
present in the VFR models.
>
> Your assumption that all GPS approaches also have VOR approaches, while
not exactly clear to me, is not correct. There are many GPS stand-alone
approaches and more are being published as we speak. It is true that a VOR
or VOR/DME approach may have a GPS overlay or may be a Phase III approach,
which means that one may fly the
> approach with either equipment type. It is also true that a given runway
at an airport may have both a VOR approach and a GPS approach that are quite
different and that may have different minimums.
>
> Finally, an aircraft equipped with one VOR and no GPS or other navigation
equipment might make me a little nervous, but not much; on the other hand,
an aircraft equipped with one VOR and one IFR approach-certified GPS
certainly would not. In fact, I would much prefer it to an aircraft with
two VORs and no GPS because it enables me
> to fly approaches into many more airports. The same is not true of an
aircraft equipped with only GPS, even with two GPSs, for the reasons Kevin
Horton described. GPSs sometimes just quit navigating, even serviceable
ones, which implies that sometimes two, serviceable, independent GPSs will
both quit at the same time, so GPS
> backup for GPS is not the answer. Finally, you may not use a VFR-only or
even some IFR-certified GPSs to fly a GPS approach. Flying a GPS approach
requires an IFR approach-certified GPS. Even flying a VOR approach, say,
requires an IFR approach-certified GPS to substitute for DME or a second VOR
or an NDB.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Jack Abell
>
> "Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > OK, let this VFR only RV'er ask a stupid question. (I know I shouldn't
open my mouth to prove my ignorance here...) If your going to put in a
VOR/ILS/MB, why bother with the IFR certified GPS, with the $200/mo updates.
If I understand from the previous discussions, a single VOR is acceptable
(but maybe not wise) for IFR flight.
> >
> > Why couldn't you use a VFR GPS to "supplement your situational
awareness" and legally fly off the VOR? Is the IFR GPS fundamentally
different in the way it works than the VFR GPS. I'm assuming that any GPS
approach would probably also have a VOR approach.
> >
> > Stupid minds want to know...
> >
> > Laird (VFR RV-6 w/ no IFR training) N515L
> > SoCal - Waiting for enlightenment
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Carbon fiber |
Tom,
Be very careful with carbon fiber around aluminum, my understanding is that
it can cause corrosion. Same problem as pencil marks.
I can sell you carbon fiber, it's pricey. Use it only if you need very high
strength and light weight.
Bob
imfairings(at)aol.com
Fairings Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
Scott,
Think of it this way. If you cut parallel to, or 90 degrees to, the edge of
the roll you are cutting 'square'. If you cut at a 45 degree angle to the
edge you are cutting on the 'bias', [or any other angle]. You can see that
this way you would have strand running at 45 degrees to each other rather
than the standard 90 degrees.
This adds to the load carrying ability of the laminate. It usually is only
used in very high stress areas because it can make the lay-up a real pain and
waste material.
Bob
imfairings(at)aol.com
Fairings Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Guns/PSI - Interesting Facts-Long |
Fred,
If you would like to sell any of those rivet guns (except the Taylor),
let me know. My email address is crabaut(at)coalinga.com
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Amp requirements |
What would be the minimum size alternator needed for
an average VFR panel and standard lighting?
Thanks in advance
Rob Miller
80153
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Delano" <mdelano(at)mho.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Windshield Surround |
Strength has little to do with cutting glass cloth on the bias. The main
reason is the fibers running at 45 Deg. will conform to compound shape more
easily with no puckering on the edges. The fibers have to a shorter distance to
move as they comform to a compound shape if cut on the bias than fibers running
the full length of a straight cut fiberglass strip. Glass cut in this manner
will not conform as easily to a compound shape.
When a bias cut strip becomes narrower just pull it back into shape, or a
trick which I have used is to put a strip of masking tape down the center of a
bias cut strip, this will held the fibers while the glass is positioned in the
lay-up then remove the tape.
Mark Delano
Littleton CO.
Long EZ N14LE
6A Fus
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> > 4) I still have not figured out how to keep fiberglass cut on the bias
> from
> > "necking down" when I make a layup. The stuff is like double knit.. It
> just
> > stretches and stretches. The downside is that the pieces I cut 2" wide
> ended
> > up as 1.25", etc.... Any solutions?
>
> Answer: Don't cut it on a bias! Scott McD helped me with my windscreen layup
> and he just cuts it square. The reason being that its a fairing, not a
> structural part, so it doesn't have to be super strong (and will be anyway
> especially if you use carbon fiber!) and those thin strips are much easier
> to lay up if cut square.
>
> I too used carbon fiber for the top piece, cut square, and am confident that
> it's pretty bulletproof (of course everyone grabs it 2 seconds after I tell
> them whats ok to hold onto and what's not -- sigh.)
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Antennae Location |
Hi Gang,
We are ready to install an Apollo SL-40 Radio and a King KT-76C
Transponder. We are going to use a belly mounted antenna. How close may we
mount the Txp. antenna? Any thoughts and recommendations will be
considered. Thnxinadvnc.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N8ZW in my near future
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 Under Sized Top Skin? |
Okay, here's what I've found. One of my W-903 top outboard skins is 3/16"
span length shorter than the other. This is resulting in a trailing edge
gap of 3/16" where W-903 and W-902 top wing skins meet at the trailing
edge. This gap is 3/16"wide x 2 1/4"long (for and aft). The rivets holes
along the inboard edge of of this skin are only 1/8" from the edge
(measured from rivet hole edge to edge of skin) for the entire for and aft
seam. Should I ask Van to send me another or what? I thought this gap was
intentional until after clecoeing and drilling out the skins I started the
right wing and it didn't have the gap. "Hmmmm, something up here," my
friend said. I think he's right. What to do?
Second: Are the W-925BL pieces one and the same as the W925C-R and the
W925C-L's. All I can find are W925BL's in my kit. Sorry, I came into work
to email this and forgot to write down the description of the piece. It's
something like an aelron bracket brace.
Thanks guys,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Why run the fuel vents through the cockpit? |
> I did wonder while I was doing the vent lines why they couldn't run to
> the wingtip as many certified airplanes have them...
>
One more thing in favor of Vans design is that the tank is always
removable.......Norman......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>As someone said earlier, the rivet doesn't care. Well, the gun doesn't
>care
>either as long as it gets the right pressure of air. If you like the
swivel
>regulator at the gun then that's great. If I've got a regulator on the
wall
>and 20' of hose to the gun then that works great! If I've got a
Craftsman
>compressor that has an erroneous guage and it drives good rivets when
>set at
>20 psi, then that's good also. I do know that 90 psi at the hammer of
the
>gun is gonna smash the snot out of the -3 and -4 rivets and probably put
>a hole in the skin. I know, I did it by accident.........once.
-
A lot of good info in this thread. From experience teaching riveting
techniques to many builders I will pass on the following, which goes
directly against what many of the posts have said, but.... hey do what
works for you. This is what we found worked the best for beginners when
they came to Van's for the RV builders workshop.
First of all, never use a pressure regulator to set the line pressure for
riveting, whether it is an in line type or the one controlling the output
of your compressor. most of the regulators can have the control turned
up to 1/2 of a turn or more without even showing a pressure change on the
pressure gauge.
Do not use the ball type of valve for controlling the rivet gun. It is
difficult to adjust precisely, and it can easily be bumped without
knowing it.
For the class we required every one to purchase the needle valve type
regulator that is sold by Avery tools (cant recall the part #). It has
detents in very small steps as you screw it in or out (turn the gun up
and down).
It works well enough to leave the line pressure turned up very high (100
PSI or more) allowing the use of air drills, etc., without readjusting
the line pressure every time you change tools. The added benefit is that
you will never accidently start riveting with the pressure too high, and
damage something, because you will always be leaving it up high.
Using this type of regulator allows for very small adjustments to be
made. As you gain some experience you will find that some times you have
to readjust slightly as you move from more or less solid areas on a
structure being riveted. This is very easy to do with just one or two
small clicks up or down as required. The amount of adjustment that I am
talking about is virtually impossible with a line type regulator or a
swivel/ball type at the gun.
For beginners that are striving for the best finish possible right from
the start I always recommend that you start off with a gun setting that
will just barely fully set the rivet before it gets work hardened. For
initial adjustments try for a setting that requires a count of 3 seconds
when driving 3/32 rivets (thousand one, thousand two, thousand three)
after you reach full throttle with the trigger. This will help you
prevent excessive "pounding" for a nicer finish. Particularly with the
lower quality Taylor style guns.
Above all else... do not use the parts you plane to fly for your first
practicing. Get some scrap aluminum from a sheet metal guy at your local
airport and practice as much as possible.
Hope this is of some help to some of you beginners.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | constant speed cowl needed |
Have a friend who is looking for an older constant
speed cowl. His cowl is warped badly from being
partialy fitted and then stored for a long time.
Cowl would be say 5 years old and is for an RV4.
Stewart Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antennae Location |
Louis,
Dave & I spent a lot of time reseacher the same issue and talked to a number
of the gurus. The consence seems to be atleast 2' feet apart.
We installed them on the same plane behind the pilot's seat as far
apart as we could (about 28").
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (installing wings next week)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Prime now or later |
Listers,
I recently purchased an RV-8 QB and now have completed vert and horiz
stabilizers, elevators, rudder, ailerons, and flaps. Before I start on
the wings, is now a good time to prep and prime the completed surfaces,
or should I wait until closer to the paint job?
Stu McCurdy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Amp requirements |
>
>What would be the minimum size alternator needed for
>an average VFR panel and standard lighting?
>
I have Whelan wing-tip combi lights, one com, one Narco all-in-one ILS
receiver, an RST audio panel/intercom, a transponder, a panel mount black
and white GPS, the Vision engine monitoring system and a basic, two LED
illuminator panel lighting system. I also have pitot heat.
With everything on except the fuel pump and pitot heat and the com radio in
receive it runs right at 23 amps. Of course after a start it is higher for
battery charging. It seems to me that a 40 amp alternator is more than
enough for just about any VFR RV. I have a 60, which is more than I need.
The 60 cost very little more and I was a not sure what the total draw would
be.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Addendum to electrical load |
Listers:
On my previous message about electrical load I knew I would forget
something. My 23 amp load also includes the landing light which is a single
55 watt bulb.
Larry Pardue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
I assume you mean the strands of successive layers would run 45 degrees
to each other? The piece you cut at 45 degrees to the edge of the roll
would still have its strands 90 degrees to each other. Still a bit
confused. Glad I'm not building a glass airplane ;)
Scott
Imfairings(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Scott,
> Think of it this way. If you cut parallel to, or 90 degrees to, the edge of
> the roll you are cutting 'square'. If you cut at a 45 degree angle to the
> edge you are cutting on the 'bias', [or any other angle]. You can see that
> this way you would have strand running at 45 degrees to each other rather
> than the standard 90 degrees.
> This adds to the load carrying ability of the laminate. It usually is only
> used in very high stress areas because it can make the lay-up a real pain and
> waste material.
> Bob
> imfairings(at)aol.com
> Fairings Etc.
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Review |
Brian,
An "approved check airman" is a designated representative that conducts checkrides
for the FAA. He/She is not actually an FAA employee. To do your flight
review you just need to fly with any CFI. The paragraph that you quoted simply
states that if you complete a checkride or proficiency check it also renews
your 24 month BFR requirement. So if you add on your commercial rating, you
also reset the clock on needing a BFR for another 24 months. I haven't instructed
much for the last few years....but I dont think its changed much!! Hope
this helps.
Kurt Klewin
RV6A OKC, OK
CFII/MEI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Sat,
05 Aug 2000 10:13:26.-0400(at)matronics.com
The part # for the Avery regulator is #150, the best 13.50 you will spend. Like
Scott said, set your reg at the compressor for your paint gun or die grinder and
use the little reg. It allows very fine increases in the rivet gun. I teach my
helpers to just pull the trigger like a gun BLAAAT and do it the same way every
time, then adjust the reg to how they feel comfortable pulling the trigger. Keep
it Simple
Eric Henson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prime now or later |
In a message dated 8/5/00 9:14:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, sturdy(at)att.net
writes:
<< Listers,
I recently purchased an RV-8 QB and now have completed vert and horiz
stabilizers, elevators, rudder, ailerons, and flaps. Before I start on
the wings, is now a good time to prep and prime the completed surfaces,
or should I wait until closer to the paint job?
Stu McCurdy >>
Stu,
Prime the external stuff later (right before finish painting). You are going
to handle those parts many, many times between now and then, and every time
you handle them, you will get grease, oil, and dirt embedded in your primer
in addition to all the minor scratches that happen in the shop. This means
you'd need to scuff sand at least, then add a second coat of primer to make
sure your finish paint sticks well.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
Scott,
You got it right. If you were building a square part out of two layers one
layer would have strands running from edge to edge the other layer would run
from corner to corner. Clear as mud?
Bob
imfairings(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What is cutting fiberglas on the bias? |
Yup,
Got it! Thanks!
Scott
Imfairings(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Scott,
> You got it right. If you were building a square part out of two layers one
> layer would have strands running from edge to edge the other layer would run
> from corner to corner. Clear as mud?
> Bob
> imfairings(at)aol.com
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prime now or later |
Stu . . . not sure what you mean by "completed surfaces", but if you mean
exterior, I'd definitely wait. You'll also want to use whatever primer
system (on the exterior) that is compatible with the exterior paint you
decide on. With my QB I primed the internal structures, elevator horn, etc.
etc. etc. before final assembly. When I got my fuse kit I primed the
various interior components (consoles, seat backs, flooring, etc. etc.)
before starting to assemble. I find if I get all of the components ready
(deburred, scotchbrited, metal prepped, alodined, primed) then I don't have
to worry with this later on. Of course, there are always a few odds and
ends that require priming.
That's my 2 cents.
Rick Jory
-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net>
Date: Saturday, August 05, 2000 6:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prime now or later
>
>Listers,
>
>I recently purchased an RV-8 QB and now have completed vert and horiz
>stabilizers, elevators, rudder, ailerons, and flaps. Before I start on
>the wings, is now a good time to prep and prime the completed surfaces,
>or should I wait until closer to the paint job?
>
>Stu McCurdy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 Manifold Pressure Sensor |
Jim, I installed mine on the cockpit side of the 2nd bulkhead. I ran a
flexible steel/nylon (read: brake line) hose from the cylinder pickup to the
A bulkhead fitting (I used a 45 degree bent type) mounted just to the left of
the baggage support beam. Then I ran an alum. 1/4 inch tube behind this
support (support acts as a shield) thru the #2 bulkhead, bent it 90 degrees,
and ran it into the manifold sensor, ( which is mounted on a bracket, i.e.,
90 degree/ 'L'shaped). I used a rubber grommet at the #2 bulkhead/tube
intersection.
If you need help hooking up the fuel flow sensor write me at ersf2b(at)aol.com
Ed Storo RV-8 30+hrs (in paint shop, dag-gone it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Wings |
Listers,
Does anyone have an wing kit "intact"( for an RV6A) that they
want to sell ?
Sorry I didn't mention the model in the first post.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
Steve,
Wait untill the time is right and then remind these people that "The
mind is like a piece of fruit.
It's either growing, or it's rotting."
Larry Mac Donald
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for"
writes:
> Steve Judd on 08/04/2000 10:27:40 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting PSI
>
> Steve, I think its a matter of you outgrowing the guys at work. You
must keep developing your simplified theroms, you are well on your way.
Here, have a Miller Lite ( ptssshhhh) while I refine your flight theory
a little in order to make room for more metal thinkin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Scroggs" <rmscroggs(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Thanks To Everyone |
Hello, I'm not new to the list, I've been lurking in the back ground. I've
got a partial RV-4 kit (Tail and Wings) and have been trying to connect up
to people that are in the Atlanta area with a 4. I just got back from
Oshkosh where I met a few RV owners and I wanted to relay a story to
everyone.
I met a gentleman, with a green RV-4, from Connecticut along with his
wife. He had just arrived, I guess, and was retorquing his wooden prop. I
never did get his name or if he told me I just forgot it. We talked for a
while and I told him about my kit. He asked if I had ever flown or sat in a
RV-4. I had not. He was kind enough to let me sit in his plane for a while
and answer my questions. I've been trying to get that opportunity for
sometime and I really appreciated it.
I don't know how to really thank him other than to tell this story. It
was a wonderful gesture on his part. I know that I will try to be the same
way when I get my 4 flying.
I met Scott McDaniels at Van's booth and I thanked him for the input that
he's added to this list and I encouraged him to continue looking after us.
Thanks for listening,
Ross Scroggs
Conyers, Ga.
RV-4 #3911
Finishing a new garage first.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert P. Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal- Fiberglass |
Bert
I used E Glass for the canopy skirts and empannage fairing. I am using
S Glass for the wing fairings. E Glass is cheaper and seems to be a
little easier to use. S Glass is stiffer or stronger so you don't have
to use as much, which means lighter, but is also much more expensive.
You can get more exotic glass material, but it gets real expensive. Get
aircraft spruce catalog, it has a very good primer on the different
types of glass, that is where I buy my glass also.
Bob Busick
bert murillo wrote:
>
> HI:
>
> I am ready to buy the fiberglass cloth....but after
> looking at the book,,,there are so many kinds, weights
> weaves..etc..
> What is the type I should get, to make the skirts,
> or fairings? for the canopy?..
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New RV-9 List At Matronics! |
Hi RV Listers!
Due to popular demand, I have added a new RV9-List email forum to the
Matronics server. As you might have expected, the name of the list is:
rv9-list(at)matronics.com
and you may subscribe to it by going to the usual Subscription page
found at:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Be sure to scroll down to the newly added "RV9-List" and
"RV9-List-Digest" buttons on the Subscription page.
I have also added support in the Search Engine and Download sections for
the new List. These can be found at:
http://www.matronics.com/search
and
http://www.matronics.com/archives
respectivly.
Have fun, and best regards!!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin, Matronics.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prime now or later |
--- KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> In a message dated 8/5/00 9:14:58 AM Eastern
> Daylight Time, sturdy(at)att.net
> writes:
>
> << Listers,
>
> I recently purchased an RV-8 QB and now have
> completed vert and horiz
> stabilizers, elevators, rudder, ailerons, and
> flaps. Before I start on
> the wings, is now a good time to prep and prime the
> completed surfaces,
> or should I wait until closer to the paint job?
>
> Stu McCurdy >>
>
>
> Stu,
>
> Prime the external stuff later (right before finish
> painting). You are going
> to handle those parts many, many times between now
> and then, and every time
> you handle them, you will get grease, oil, and dirt
> embedded in your primer
> in addition to all the minor scratches that happen
> in the shop. This means
> you'd need to scuff sand at least, then add a second
> coat of primer to make
> sure your finish paint sticks well.
>
> KB
I agree. Prime right before you paint. I primed my
tail when I made it. It is the only part of the
airplane that is having problems with the paint
sticking. (Almost 3 years) The rest was primed right
before it was painted.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Listers,
I flew the panther home from OSH and the condition inspection expired at the
end of July. I looked at the prop and realized it needed some attention. It
is a Warnke. I was going to give it another coat of spar varnish, but it
looks like it needs more work than that. Has anyone sent a prop back to
Warnke since the new administration was in place? What did the they charge?
how long did it take to turn around? General impressions and satisfaction?
What about other prop shops?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Amp requirements |
>
>What would be the minimum size alternator needed for
>an average VFR panel and standard lighting?
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Rob Miller
>80153
A full up IFR package almost never exceeds 27 amps with
EVERYTHING turned on . . . and in clouds with pitot heat
on, external lights are OFF . . .
A 40A alternator is plenty of machine for 98% of the
s.e. homebuilt aircraft flying.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm ready to attach the hinges that hold the seat backs to the seat bottoms
on my -6A, but when I marked the 8" line for the first set of hinges
(aft-most), I found that it's very close to a row of rivet holes for the
seat bottoms. The same thing occurs for the front set of hinges.
Can I move these hinges forward or backward a little or should I use
countersunk pop rivets when I put the seat bottoms in, and just put the
hinges where there supposed to go?
I'm about 6' tall, and normally like the seat back pretty far when I'm
flying (bonanza), but I don't have enough experience in a -6(A) to know what
seat position I'm going to want.
Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated - I'd sure like to finish
this installation this weekend.
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC RV-6A qb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "russell parr" <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Balancing |
Randy, I'm in the market for a prop balancing job. Please have your friend
e-mail me off list. Thanks, Russ Parr rrparr12(at)hotmail.com
>From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Prop Balancing
>Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 14:22:08 -0500
>
>
>I wanted to pass on a service to those who have flying RVs and live/operate
>around the Midwest,
>
>A friend of mine, Glen David, is an AP and AI for United Airlines. He also
>built and flies a RV-6 out of Indianapolis. He recently purchased dynamic
>prop balancing gear and is beginning to offer the service part-time. He
>came out this morning to do my RV-6 (160 hp with Sensenich metal prop) and
>the effect was simply staggering. I cannot believe the difference. I
>really didn't think that I had that bad of a vibration problem but once
>balanced, the effects were quite noticeable. I can't wait to fly it this
>weekend to check it out in the air.
>
>Glen is one of the nicest, helpful, and knowledgeable guys I've run across.
>He is starting to balance props on the side and he will travel to your
>airport, within reason. I am a believer now of the benefits of prop
>balancing. I highly recommend it and I've got to believe that the reduced
>wear and tear on the hinges, exhaust, engine mounts, carb heat box,
>instruments, etc. will pay for this over time, not the mention the smoother
>ride.
>
>If you think you'd like to experience the benefits of dynamic prop
>balancing
>first hand, respond to me off-list and I'll put you in touch with him. I
>don't think he's established a firm price yet and I'm sure it depends
>somewhat on how far he has to travel. My guess is the price will be around
>$200. I think it's well worth it.
>
>Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (40 hours)
>Indianapolis (UMP)
>http://members.iquest.net/~rpflanze/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
"FITZPATRICK, JEROME" <76501.520(at)compuserve.com>,
"Gilliland, Dee" ,
"Kerr, Bernie" , "Newton, Eric" ,
"Rotary list, Paul Lamar" ,
RV list ,
"Stall, Kendall" ,
"Walley, Pete" ,
"Crook, Tracy"
| Subject: | (Lower)Slobovia Outernational Hamburger Burn |
EAA Chapter 276 has decided to invade Lower Slobovia in search of the
elusive less-than-$50-hamburger on Saturday, September 23, 2000.
One of the other lowly Slobovian citizens inocently decided to invite
our EAA chapter here for our monthly meeting. I've decided to invite a
few more of my closest friends. I haven't exactly run this by the
planning commitee, so if any of you out of towners within reach of this
email decide to come, please RSVP to this email address early in that
week or expect to go hungry. Anyone who wants to come early & help cook
I'll guarantee some food. Festivities begin at 10:00, food around 1:00
pm.
Slobovia Outernational is a 3600' sod strip, 10 mi north of Jackson MS
on the Memphis Sectional. For coordinates or driving directions, try
http://www.airnav.com
& enter MS71
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Review |
A CFI is not a check airman. A check airman is a designated examiner or
Airline Check Pilot. You can meet the requirements by adding any
additional rating, such as commercial, instrument, CFI, CFII, ATP, Sea
Plane. A tail wheel checkout, or hi-performance endorsement does not
qualify. You can ask the CFI who gives the endorsement (a head of time) to
also include the Flight Review. The flight review must consist of one hour
ground and one hour flight. There are certain areas that the FAA
recommends that the CFI cover. I hope this helps...if you have any other
questions, just ask.
>
>While not exactly RV related, I would like to ask a couple questions to
>anyone qualified to answer such as CFI's or "Das Fed" (if he's still out
>there).
>
>FAR61.56 (d) states "A person who has, within the period specified in
>paragraph (c) (24 months) of this section, satisfactorily completed a pilot
>proficiency check conducted by the FAA, an approved pilot check airman, or a
>U.S. Armed Force, for a pilot certificate, rating, or operating priviledge,
>need not accomplish the flight review required by this section."
>
>Questions:
>
>Is a CFI an "approved pilot check airman"?
>Is a tailwheel endorsement or complex endorsement an 'operating priviledge"?
>
>Thanks in advance
>Brian Eckstein
>6A finishing details, details,......
>
>
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seat position |
Robert,
These hinges can be located to suit your needs. My legs are 30" and I keep
my seat in the middle hinge. My wife (5'10") puts the other side in the
rear hinge with the seat back support folded down and she still would want
more room. But she doesn't fly, just a passenger. I have std. Becki
Orndorff seats.
Rick Caldwell
Melbourne, FL
RV-6 117 hrs since 1/16/2000
>From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv list
>Subject: RV-List: seat position
>Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 17:34:44 -0400
>
>
>I'm ready to attach the hinges that hold the seat backs to the seat bottoms
>on my -6A, but when I marked the 8" line for the first set of hinges
>(aft-most), I found that it's very close to a row of rivet holes for the
>seat bottoms. The same thing occurs for the front set of hinges.
>Can I move these hinges forward or backward a little or should I use
>countersunk pop rivets when I put the seat bottoms in, and just put the
>hinges where there supposed to go?
>I'm about 6' tall, and normally like the seat back pretty far when I'm
>flying (bonanza), but I don't have enough experience in a -6(A) to know
>what
>seat position I'm going to want.
>Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated - I'd sure like to
>finish
>this installation this weekend.
>
>Robert Dickson
>Fayetteville NC RV-6A qb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RMI AMP Transducer |
-----Original Message-----
From: Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com>
Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 11:48 AM
Subject: RV-List: RMI AMP Transducer
>
>Any one have a RMI Monitor? I tried to call Ron, but he is closed.
>I am trying to trouble shoot my AMP transducer wiring as I get invalid
>reading.
>>
>>Dennis- your wire notations were correct. Do you have the transducer
faced in the proper direction. There is an arrow on the base indicating the
direction of electric flow and measurement. Hope it was as simple a fix as
that. Good luck.
Bob Pretzsch 399BP finishing the engine controls
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B. Riesen" <briesenjr(at)prodigy.net> |
"RV4-List Digest List"
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 08/04/00 |
please remove my name and e-mail address frim your mailing list..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting PSI |
There are rivet guns such as Cleco brand that have built in regulators at the
hose end for regulating pressure. I use a 2X Cleco brand and it seems to work
perfect wtih my compressor set at 130 psi.
John Danielson
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
I can now say that I have flown in Rick Caldwell's RV-6. A wonderful bird,
as agile as she is beautiful. A real testament to the dedication of her
builder....very nice indeed. You should all be so lucky.
Thanks a lot Rick!
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: seat position
>
> Robert,
>
> These hinges can be located to suit your needs. My legs are 30" and I
keep
> my seat in the middle hinge. My wife (5'10") puts the other side in the
> rear hinge with the seat back support folded down and she still would want
> more room. But she doesn't fly, just a passenger. I have std. Becki
> Orndorff seats.
>
> Rick Caldwell
> Melbourne, FL
> RV-6 117 hrs since 1/16/2000
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anybody have any "REAL" (as in actual) good speed/climb data
> for an RV-6(a)0-360/72FM prop with 85" of pitch? If you do have some
> good data to share, it would be good to know the weight at which you
> achieved those numbers.
>
> My RV-6 has the 83" version and I'm trying to figure out what the
> speed gain/climb decrease would be by going to the 85". Both I and
> some of the others I've talked with can easily overspeed the engine
> anywhere up to the 11-12K range. That means it's underpitched by a
> fair amount, but I have the feeling that the 83" may be a good
> comprimise prop, but I would like a little data to back it up.
I'm glad to see this discussion before I order my prop. Hopefully
we'll get some data out here on it.
I offer the following email from Ed at Sensenich - I'm sure he won't
mind. I was corresponding with him to try and resolve the disparity
between Van's pitch recommendations and those from Sensenich for (in my
case) an O-360 w/ fixed pitch. After some research and some thought, I
offered to him the possibility that their recommendations are not based
on the use of pressure-recovery wheel pants.
Here is his reply.
"Mike,
You are correct! The testing was done on a RV-6 and a RV-6A two years
ago
and they did not have the new fairings. If the new items add 5-6 MPH
then 2
inches of pitch increase would be correct. We normally see a 5-6
increase
when we go up two inches. The new fairings are obviously unloading
the 83
pitch enough to warrant the 2 inch increase. It makes perfect sense.
With that in mind, going up to the 86 pitch would not be out of the
question. I would imagine that would make a very nice "cruise"
configuration. I would recommend doing it, especially when
considering where
you are based!
Keep in mind if you go with the 86 pitch, you should see a static RPM
of
about 2125. If you are seeing below 2100, have the tach calibrated.
If the
tach is correct, there is a prop or engine problem that should be
dealt
with. 99% of the time, it is simply tach error; but you want to be
sure!
Ed"
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anybody have any "REAL" (as in actual) good speed/climb data
> for an RV-6(a)0-360/72FM prop with 85" of pitch? If you do have some
> good data to share, it would be good to know the weight at which you
> achieved those numbers.
>
> My RV-6 has the 83" version and I'm trying to figure out what the
> speed gain/climb decrease would be by going to the 85". Both I and
> some of the others I've talked with can easily overspeed the engine
> anywhere up to the 11-12K range. That means it's underpitched by a
> fair amount, but I have the feeling that the 83" may be a good
> comprimise prop, but I would like a little data to back it up.
I'm glad to see this discussion before I order my prop. Hopefully
we'll get some data out here on it.
I offer the following email from Ed at Sensenich - I'm sure he won't
mind. I was corresponding with him to try and resolve the disparity
between Van's pitch recommendations and those from Sensenich for (in my
case) an O-360 w/ fixed pitch. After some research and some thought, I
offered to him the possibility that their recommendations are not based
on the use of pressure-recovery wheel pants.
Here is his reply.
"Mike,
You are correct! The testing was done on a RV-6 and a RV-6A two years
ago
and they did not have the new fairings. If the new items add 5-6 MPH
then 2
inches of pitch increase would be correct. We normally see a 5-6
increase
when we go up two inches. The new fairings are obviously unloading
the 83
pitch enough to warrant the 2 inch increase. It makes perfect sense.
With that in mind, going up to the 86 pitch would not be out of the
question. I would imagine that would make a very nice "cruise"
configuration. I would recommend doing it, especially when
considering where
you are based!
Keep in mind if you go with the 86 pitch, you should see a static RPM
of
about 2125. If you are seeing below 2100, have the tach calibrated.
If the
tach is correct, there is a prop or engine problem that should be
dealt
with. 99% of the time, it is simply tach error; but you want to be
sure!
Ed"
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Only IFR |
Norman,
A Stormscope/Strikefinder is a wonderful tool. They will often paint areas
of turbulence before they start visible sparking. It has been my experience
that anything that they are not painting (if they are working) will probably
not kill you. It might be uncomfortable but not deadly. I have flown
several airplanes with various models of both and they are a really useful
addition to any IFR or VFR airplane.
A recent IFR magazine had several articles on them (one with my name on it).
They require some experience to learn how to read them and what they are
telling you, but the learning curve is pretty steep. I flew from Ft Meyers
FL to Charles City Iowa last spring. We crossed 7 lines of thunderstorms
and never really got bumped around at all.
Even in with a Stormscope, I use it to determine which way to go around a
thunderstorm, or if a hole is clear behind. Try really hard to avoid flying
IMC in close proximity to thunderstorms. If you are on a short trip (so you
have a recent look at Nexrad) and you know the folks at ATC will help you,
it can be done, but I don't use a stormscope alone to work through imbedded
thunderstorms.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
> *** I agree but is it not possible to avoid the worst of the turbulance
when
> equipped with WX detection equipment? Can some of the high milage guys
> please comment on the effectivness of the lower cost WX gear like
Stormscope
> and Strike Finder. For example wouldn't either of them show a line of
> thunderstorms ahead in time to make the descision to land? One of those
two
> companies advertises that it is possible to have a look around while still
> on the ramp. It might be enough data to cancel or delay a take-off. Does
> this technology work and can we rely on it to keep us safe? I have planned
> for several years now to include one of the two in my panel. A true WX
Radar
> system is too expensive, heavy , and bulky in my opinion to mount on an
RV.
>
> Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: removing flap pins |
I checked the pins on my 6 while waiting for the DAR on Thursday and found that
they do indeed interfere with the ailerons. If the pin backs out more than about
1/4" from the end of the flap hinge, the A607 Aileron bracket will hit it and
limit the up travel to 20 deg instead of the 30 it's supposed to be.
I also checked 2 other 6's-one has the same potential interference as mine and
the
other just clears.
So my suggestion is that you wait until the upstop is installed before deciding
whether to make it long or short.
Dave, Signed off and ready to fly! at CMA
Dave Bristol wrote:
>
> If the pin backs out more than about 1/4" it will interfere with the aileron
> control bracket and you won't get full travel on the aileron, so don't depend
> on the pin hitting the bracket to stop it. I bent a tab on a small piece of
> sheet metal and screwed it on to the end of the flap, with a #6 screw and nut
> plate in place of a hinge rivet. ( the tab bends around the end of the flap to
> keep it straight.
> Dave
>
> "Randy J. Pflanzer" wrote:
>
> >
> > Sure there is. Just put a cotter pin in the hole in the aileron bracket and
> > that keeps the pin from interfering even if is should back out.
> >
> > Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (32 hours)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 1:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I too drilled a hole in the aileron bracket....... HOWEVER, there is no
> > clever
> > > way to keep the pin from inching out and interfering with the
> > aileron....or
> > > inching out and scraping the fuse. side ..........thats bad. The two
> > piece pin
> > > with loops seems likes its the way to go.....
> > >
> > >
> > > dons6a(at)juno.com on 07/24/2000 01:35:49 AM
> > >
> > > Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: removing flap pins
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I drilled a hole in the aileron brackets.
> > >
> > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> > > **********************************************
> > >
> > > writes:
> > > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > > If I put my flaps on with the recommended 1 piece hinge pin, it
> > > > seems
> > > > that if I ever have to remove the flap for servicing, the whole wing
> > > > will have to be removed so that I could pull the pin out. Two
> > > > alternatives I see would be:
> > > > 1. Two pin pieces pin that pulls out from the center of the flap
> > > > (must
> > > > remove some hinge eyelets)
> > > > 2. One piece pin that pulls through a hold drilled in the aileron
> > > > brace.
> > > >
> > > > What are other builders out there doing?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Glenn Gordon
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
i live in mid south (very humid) and have a water separator i bought at home
depot.
believe it or not i have no more than a tsp. of water. drained my 25 gal tank
yesterday and about a cup of rusty water and sludge came out. i just got a
air squeezer and not want to ruin it among other tools. QUESTION: how come i
am not getting water in my separator??? it is between hose and regulator. bob
in arkansas doin wings and re doin an oil caning/non straight trailing edge.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elrod3794(at)AOL.COM |
hi fellow RVs
in need of vertical and horizontal stabilizer
either completed or not.
please contact me off list
elrod3794(at)aol.com
2057444994
2057449415
thanks
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Rivet PSI |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
>As someone said earlier, the rivet doesn't care. Well, the gun doesn't
>care
>either as long as it gets the right pressure of air. If you like the
swivel
>regulator at the gun then that's great. If I've got a regulator on the
wall
>and 20' of hose to the gun then that works great! If I've got a
Craftsman
>compressor that has an erroneous guage and it drives good rivets when
>set at
>20 psi, then that's good also. I do know that 90 psi at the hammer of
the
>gun is gonna smash the snot out of the -3 and -4 rivets and probably put
>a hole in the skin. I know, I did it by accident.........once.
-
A lot of good info in this thread. From experience teaching riveting
techniques to many builders I will pass on the following, which goes
directly against what many of the posts have said, but.... hey do what
works for you. This is what we found worked the best for beginners when
they came to Van's for the RV builders workshop.
First of all, never use a pressure regulator to set the line pressure for
riveting, whether it is an in line type or the one controlling the output
of your compressor. most of the regulators can have the control turned
up to 1/2 of a turn or more without even showing a pressure change on the
pressure gauge.
Do not use the ball type of valve for controlling the rivet gun. It is
difficult to adjust precisely, and it can easily be bumped without
knowing it.
For the class we required every one to purchase the needle valve type
regulator that is sold by Avery tools (cant recall the part #). It has
detents in very small steps as you screw it in or out (turn the gun up
and down).
It works well enough to leave the line pressure turned up very high (100
PSI or more) allowing the use of air drills, etc., without readjusting
the line pressure every time you change tools. The added benefit is that
you will never accidently start riveting with the pressure too high, and
damage something, because you will always be leaving it up high.
Using this type of regulator allows for very small adjustments to be
made. As you gain some experience you will find that some times you have
to readjust slightly as you move from more or less solid areas on a
structure being riveted. This is very easy to do with just one or two
small clicks up or down as required. The amount of adjustment that I am
talking about is virtually impossible with a line type regulator or a
swivel/ball type at the gun.
For beginners that are striving for the best finish possible right from
the start I always recommend that you start off with a gun setting that
will just barely fully set the rivet before it gets work hardened. For
initial adjustments try for a setting that requires a count of 3 seconds
when driving 3/32 rivets (thousand one, thousand two, thousand three)
after you reach full throttle with the trigger. This will help you
prevent excessive "pounding" for a nicer finish. Particularly with the
lower quality Taylor style guns.
Above all else... do not use the parts you plane to fly for your first
practicing. Get some scrap aluminum from a sheet metal guy at your local
airport and practice as much as possible.
Hope this is of some help to some of you beginners.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Folks
When is the best stage to cut out the rectangular hole in the Rear Spar
and W-607E for the aileron pushrod??
Graham Murphy
6A empennage and wing bits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PSI changing-Insulation |
>
>I just wanted to add, that on my previous post about
>regulating at the gun. I was referring to the cheap
>brass regulators you commonly find, that in essence
>close down the gap between the line to the gun and
>reduce pressure to the gun in a full open trigger,
>hope this makes sense to everyone. I was not trying to
>step on anyones toes here. If it came out a little
>harsh I apologize.
>
Glenn,
I don't want to step on your toes either, and I don't want to disagree with
Steve Judd's wonderful equations but in my own experience the brass
restrictor with the detents works wonderfully well. Orndorffs use it, my
sheet metal instructor Martin Sutter uses it, Van's prototype builder Scott
McDaniels apparently uses it. I used it for my airplane and never detected
any difference in the first hits.
My own method was to trigger the gun on a piece of 2 x 4 on the bench, and I
would adjust it to the right feel before using it on a rivet. I don't feel
like the one gun induced dimple (GID) per major skin, that I suffered, was
due to the theoretical drawbacks of the restrictor.
In a similar vein I hate to see so many people going to a lot of expense,
time and WEIGHT to install soundproofing and insulation without flying the
plane first. Again, in my experience with a plane with NO soundproofing and
NO firewall insulation, I do not miss those things a whit. It is a fighter,
after all, and headsets bring the noise level, in virtually any airplane, to
a very livable level. I live in hot country and have never detected heat in
the cabin coming from the firewall. I know it is there, but if it doesn't
bother me I see no reason to deal with it, and this eliminates a whole other
set of problems like worrying about the fire resistance of insulating
materials.
Now the possibility certainly exists that I am just a total clod who does
not have the sensibility or sensitivity to notice noise and heat problems,
and I realize some builders are going for more of a luxury look and feel.
If you are not in that camp though, and you haven't ridden in a "no
insulation rv" (NIRV) I would urge you to do so before you invest a lot in
those items.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 Flying (Noisily Along)
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Guys,
We use two types of regulators in the air systems we use to pound rivets
in our aircraft.
1) Pressure regulator - This is the one usually mounted on the
compressor or downstream where you attach the hose. Small ones can also
be mounted right on the tool. This regulator controls the actual
pressure in the line and to a smaller extent the volume of air (cfm).
Less pressure = less cfm.
2) Air Valve (regulator may be the wrong term). - This is usually found
installed on the tool or in the airline as it enters the tool. This
controls CFM, not pressure. The air pressure the tools sees is constant
when open or restricted.
Type 1 really effects how hard the piston/hammer strikes the rivet. Less
pressure on the piston and less cfm slows the piston down. Lots of hits
required to buck a 3/32 rivet.
Type 2 effects how fast the piston/hammer strikes the rivet. Close the
valve down and the gun runs slower but with harder hits, but not as hard
as wide open. This takes fewer hits to set the rivet.
I prefer using the type 2 (air valve) at the gun. I can adjust the gun
to set any rivet in any skin on any skeleton and not dent the skin.
On major reason people get divets when riveting is that they adjust the
air pressure two low (30 psi) use heavy pressure on the gun (lean on it
to hard) and smash the rivets for 5 seconds to get it set.
Try a light pressure on the gun, just enough to keep it from bouncing.
Don't lean heavily on it. Use 90 psi and an air valve (type 2) at the
gun. It will take about 1 second (braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap) and you
rivet will be set, without being work hardened to the point of becoming
weak.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
glenn williams wrote:
>
> I just wanted to add, that on my previous post about
> regulating at the gun. I was referring to the cheap
> brass regulators you commonly find, that in essence
> close down the gap between the line to the gun and
> reduce pressure to the gun in a full open trigger,
> hope this makes sense to everyone. I was not trying to
> step on anyones toes here. If it came out a little
> harsh I apologize.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: water seperator |
Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> i live in mid south (very humid) and have a water separator i bought at home
> depot.
> believe it or not i have no more than a tsp. of water. drained my 25 gal tank
> yesterday and about a cup of rusty water and sludge came out.
The problem is that the air is still warm and humid as it goes through the water
separator. The separator will not remove water vapor from the air, only liquid
water. Put a length of hose before the separator and run this hose in a bucket
of
cold water. This should help. Or search the archives for "Air Dryer" and you will
find tons of info on the different ways to remove the water from your compressed
air.
Drain that compressor every night. The air is cooling overnight and the water
condenses out of it and collects in the bottom of the tank. The inside of the
tank is not painted and will rust through in just a couple of years if not
drained each and every day and water is allowed to build up in the tank.
> i just got a
> air squeezer and not want to ruin it among other tools. QUESTION: how come i
> am not getting water in my separator??? it is between hose and regulator. bob
> in arkansas doin wings and re doin an oil caning/non straight trailing edge.
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alain nantel" <alain_nantel(at)hotmail.com> |
>Subject: RV-List: Visions
>
>I need some ideas. Any of you that have the Visions Microsystems panel on
>board. Can you tell me where you placed you load sensor? I have all my
>wires bundled together at the time. The sensor board has mounting screws.
>I hate thinking about just threading the power wire through it and letting
>it just hang. But I also don't want to drill any more holes through the
>firewall unless I really need to.
>Thanks for you ideas.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
Hi Mike
I just mounted mine yesterday and here is how i did it;
First, I mounted the sensor on the instrument panel support rib (any one
should do).
Second, I feed the alt. wire thru the rib using a grommet,
Third, I secured the sensor to the rib using four AN3 bolts with a grommet
between the sensor and the rib at each bolts thus attenuating some of the
vibration (I hope). It also serves the create some distance between the
sensor and the rib.
Hope this helps you
Alain_Nantel(at)hotmail.com
RV-6 C-GGRS
90% done 90% to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
Is there a quick, dirty, easy method to tell if a rivet has been work
hardened short of an inflight failure?
Scott
RV4 tailkit
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> Guys,
>
8< edited here....
> Try a light pressure on the gun, just enough to keep it from bouncing.
> Don't lean heavily on it. Use 90 psi and an air valve (type 2) at the
> gun. It will take about 1 second (braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap) and you
> rivet will be set, without being work hardened to the point of becoming
> weak.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A N99PZ
>
> glenn williams wrote:
>
> >
> > I just wanted to add, that on my previous post about
> > regulating at the gun. I was referring to the cheap
> > brass regulators you commonly find, that in essence
> > close down the gap between the line to the gun and
> > reduce pressure to the gun in a full open trigger,
> > hope this makes sense to everyone. I was not trying to
> > step on anyones toes here. If it came out a little
> > harsh I apologize.
> >
>
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elrod3794(at)AOL.COM |
sorry for the incomplete posting
i need rv8 horizontal and vertical stabilizer
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Spar W607E |
Graham:
I did it before the spar was primed and well before you rivet the wing ribs
to the spars. I used the dimensions from Will Cretsinger's plans and it
worked well. First make the hole in the spar, then cleco your W607E in
place and trace the hole dimension onto it using the hole in the spar as a
guide. After you get the hole cut in the W607E, cleco it back onto the spar
and then use a file to match the holes perfectly. I should point out that I
did have to make minor adjustments to the hole to allow the aileron pushrod
to clear it once the ailerons were hung. That again is easily done with a
file.
Hope this clears it up for you.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Waiting for Navaid servo prior to second wing closure
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Graham Murphy <jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz>
Date: Sunday, August 06, 2000 12:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rear Spar W607E
>
>Folks
>
>When is the best stage to cut out the rectangular hole in the Rear Spar
>and W-607E for the aileron pushrod??
>
>Graham Murphy
>6A empennage and wing bits.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
Although I have an RV8, I'll share some comments on my O-360/83" pitch
Sensenich installation.
Static RPM at approx 6,000' elevation: 2350rpm
While in cruise flight, with all fairings in place, have to pull throttle
back a bit at altitudes below 10,000' to not exceed 2700 rpm. This is during
wintertime temps. When it's hot, can run at full throttle at lower
altitudes, down to 7,500' MSL and not exceed 2700 rpm. However, it only
takes a tiny bit of nose down trim to get the rpm over 2700 very quickly.
I operate at high density altitudes almost all the time here in New Mexico.
I feel the 83" pitch is optimum for this environment. At lower operating
altitudes and/or where temperatures are typically moderate, the 85" would be
the better choice.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PSI changing-Insulation |
snip
>
> In a similar vein I hate to see so many people going to a lot of expense,
> time and WEIGHT to install soundproofing and insulation without flying the
> plane first. Again, in my experience with a plane with NO soundproofing and
> NO firewall insulation, I do not miss those things a whit. It is a fighter,
> after all, and headsets bring the noise level, in virtually any airplane, to
> a very livable level. I live in hot country and have never detected heat in
> the cabin coming from the firewall. I know it is there, but if it doesn't
> bother me I see no reason to deal with it, and this eliminates a whole other
> set of problems like worrying about the fire resistance of insulating
> materials.
>
> Now the possibility certainly exists that I am just a total clod who does
> not have the sensibility or sensitivity to notice noise and heat problems,
> and I realize some builders are going for more of a luxury look and feel.
> If you are not in that camp though, and you haven't ridden in a "no
> insulation rv" (NIRV) I would urge you to do so before you invest a lot in
> those items.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 Flying (Noisily Along)
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
My (purchased) RV-4 is like Larry's, no insulation at all. It was almost
unbearably noisy when I bought it, but after sealing around the canopy
to keep out wind noise, it's perfectly livable with just passive
headsets.
If you intend to stay within Van's recommended gross weights, run the
numbers & decide if it's really worth giving up another 10 - 20 lbs of
payload.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering d-sub connectors |
This topic has hit several list-server conversations over the
past week or so . . . here's a new comic book on the technique
I use . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
I'll publish an alternative (an easier) technique using paste
solder . . . as soon as our stocking supply is in hand and available
from our website catalog.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | HELP with RV8 rudder bottom & platenut size |
I'm starting to assemble the bottom of RV8 rudder spar/rib. Do I leave the forward
flange of R404 on and drill it to match
the holes in the spar R802, R606PP and R405 and K1000-6 platenut? Also the plans
call out a 13/32 hole for the K1000-
6 platenut. It appears I need a hole 15/32 for the platenut to fit. If I drill
it 15/32 for the platenut on R405 the edge distance
will be will be quite close at 3/16. Thanks in advance for the help.
Jack Textor
RV8 - rudder
Des Moines
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Spar W607E |
In a message dated 8/5/00 10:31:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jgmurphy(at)xtra.co.nz writes:
<< When is the best stage to cut out the rectangular hole in the Rear Spar
and W-607E for the aileron pushrod?? >>
s
I cut mine out after I had the aileron bellcrank installed, the bellcrank to
aileron push/pull tube ready to install and the flaps and ailerons hanging
and correctly positioned, before I riveted the (in my case) bottom skin on.
Harry Crosby
-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Hudgins" <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Mike Seager Visit |
Mike Seager will be at the Lebanon, Tennessee fly-in (M54) on October 6th,
7th, and 8th. I have the following time slots available for those who would
like to schedule.
Friday (6th): 11:30, 1:15, & 2:30
Saturday (7th): 2:30
Sunday (8th) : 1:15, 2:30, & 3:45
The actual fly-in will only be held on Saturday (7th) this year, however,
there will be a lot of activity on Sunday I'm sure. We always have a great
turn out as long as the weather holds. Plan to attend. For more info, go to:
http://www.utilecon.com/lebanon/flyin.htm
Dave Hudgins
RV-6A Jackson, Tn.
Home: (901) 660-4890
Work: (901) 989-5113, ext. 29
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Rudder Questions...and Questions...and Questions... |
Fellow Listers,
Once again I must ask for some assistance from the vast knowledge that frequents
the "list". Im in the process of installing the rudder cables and have a
few questions:
1. The Rudder Stop: Drawing #34 shows a rudder stop made from 1x1x1/8" angle.
I found the right size angle, but cant really find anywhere in the plans or
manual exactly what shape I need to cut in the angle. DWG34 shows a 1/2 scale
drawing, but no measurements..etc. Also cant find anywhere what the maximum
deflection of the rudder should be which would help in determining the shape
of the rudder stop?
2. Ruddercable Fuse Exit: DWG34 also shows where the rudder cable exits the
fuse giving a distance 10" from the top of the fuse and a longitudinal dimension
of 151 1/2 in. But it doesnt say where the 151 1/2 in is supposed to be measured
from. Just measuring the drawing and doubling the distance (given the
drawing is at 1/2 scale) yields a distance of approx. 2 3/4in from the aft edge
of the F-610 bulkhead. This looks about right...am I close?
3. DWG34 also calls for a AN742-6C (clamp that holds the plastic tube which
surrounds the cable as it exits the fuse). I cant find this clamp in my list
of bag contents and wonder if the name/desgination may have changed?
4. OK, so not all my question have to do with the rudder..this one is a shoulder
harness installation question. The plans do not designate the bolt/nut/washer
type required to attach the harness cable to the bracket on the fuse or
to attach the harness cable to the shoulder harness attachment. Im assuming
(I hate to do this) that you use the same combination as the seatbelts: AN4-6A/AN365-428/AN960-416.
Any and all suggestions would help greatly. Thanks again for all your help.....
Kurt, OKC, OK
RV-6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve |
> Does anyone have any idea what is happening and if so is there any
> remedy to keep it from resticking. They are not really too hard to
> unstick but I hate to have to do it every 12 hours or so.
>
First, some assumptions. Your engine is some sort of Lycoming? You run
100LL only? You don't use any additives? Your engine is carburetted? I
assume you *REALLY* do have a stuck valve.
Most likely is running too rich. Excess fuel makes more carbon to stick to
valves and guides. I have been told that this is common as operators try to
keep from burning the exhaust valves.
If you aren't running too rich, I would have a good engine mechanic look
into it.
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Questions...and Questions...and Questions... |
Kurt wrote:
> 4. OK, so not all my question have to do with the rudder..this one is
a shoulder harness installation question. The plans do not designate the
bolt/nut/washer type required to attach the harness cable to the bracket on
the fuse or to attach the harness cable to the shoulder harness attachment.
Im assuming (I hate to do this) that you use the same combination as the
seatbelts: AN4-6A/AN365-428/AN960-416.
>
These bolts might be part of the seat belt package.
As to 'assuming', don't! It is uncool to assume but as you move on you will
more and more discover that there are some things to research, to ask about
just as you are doing. There will be many opportunites to figure things
out and do it as you see fit. I feel that as I near completion of my RV6a,
I can create an aircraft of my own design. That is a real learning
experience! My design might not fly very well but I am sure I can do one
that would fly. You'll feel the same when you are done.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Blade style pitot tube |
Does anyone know a source for the blade style pitot tubes, preferably 12
volt heated? And those who have them, are you happy with them?
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blade style pitot tube |
--- Jeff Point wrote:
>
> Does anyone know a source for the blade style pitot tubes, preferably
> 12
> volt heated? And those who have them, are you happy with them?
Check out the following:
http://www.gretzaero.com/
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/6/00 7:38:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
acepilot(at)win.bright.net writes:
<< Is there a quick, dirty, easy method to tell if a rivet has been work
hardened short of an inflight failure? >>
Scott, The rivit wont harden to a failure.
The problem is if it hardens too much as you set it, it will enlarge the the
hole or the metal around the hole. The skin just will not lie as flat.
Fred LaForge RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Spar W607E |
>
> Folks
>
> When is the best stage to cut out the rectangular hole in the Rear Spar
> and W-607E for the aileron pushrod??
>
> Graham Murphy
> 6A empennage and wing bits.
Unless the plans have been corrected in the last few years, don't cut the
hole where they specify, it will be way off (I think it is a leftover from
the -4, whose pushrod is more fore/aft than the -6). I'd wait until the
belcrank is in and the aileron temporarily mounted before cutting it.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN 6A
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve |
> I stupid question, but one I'm sure others have as well. How did you know
> the valve was stuck, and what did you do to unstick it?
>
> Bill
For anyone interested, the Sky Ranch Engineering Manual has about a dozen
pages devoted to nothing but sticking exhaust valves.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Scott wrote:
>
> Is there a quick, dirty, easy method to tell if a rivet has been work
> hardened short of an inflight failure?
First the reason the rivet holds so well is the temper changes as the rivet
is set. It gets work hardened the first hit of the rivet gun. What we are
worried about is working the rivet to much.
If you pound on the rivet to long cracks will form in the shop head. This is
an overly work hardened rivet and usually only happens with low pressure
settings at the gun and to small a bucking bar. If it takes more than 3
seconds to set a rivet I would think it is close to being work hardened a
little too much.
>
>
>
> Scott
> RV4 tailkit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/6/00 7:38:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> acepilot(at)win.bright.net writes:
>
> << Is there a quick, dirty, easy method to tell if a rivet has been work
> hardened short of an inflight failure? >>
> Scott, The rivit wont harden to a failure.
Yes it will, to much work on the rivet will cause cracks in the shop head.
>
> The problem is if it hardens too much as you set it, it will enlarge the the
> hole or the metal around the hole. The skin just will not lie as flat.
The rivet must enlarge in the hole for it to work properly. First it fills the
hole and then the shop head is formed. If you smash the rivet to flat then you
risk spreading the metal around the hole and creating dimples in the skin like
you say.
>
> Fred LaForge RV-4 Flying
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Questions...and Questions...and Questions... |
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Fellow Listers,
>
> Once again I must ask for some assistance from the vast knowledge that frequents
the "list". Im in the process of installing the rudder cables and have
a few questions:
>
> 1. The Rudder Stop: Drawing #34 shows a rudder stop made from 1x1x1/8" angle.
I found the right size angle, but cant really find anywhere in the plans
or manual exactly what shape I need to cut in the angle. DWG34 shows a 1/2 scale
drawing, but no measurements..etc. Also cant find anywhere what the maximum
deflection of the rudder should be which would help in determining the shape
of the rudder stop?
Maximum deflection is listed in the manual. Another method is to place a swing
the rudder until it is about 1" from touching the inboard trailing edge of the
elevators.
>
>
> 2. Ruddercable Fuse Exit: DWG34 also shows where the rudder cable exits the
fuse giving a distance 10" from the top of the fuse and a longitudinal dimension
of 151 1/2 in. But it doesnt say where the 151 1/2 in is supposed to be
measured from. Just measuring the drawing and doubling the distance (given the
drawing is at 1/2 scale) yields a distance of approx. 2 3/4in from the aft
edge of the F-610 bulkhead. This looks about right...am I close?
The measurement is from station 0.0, aka the firewall.
>
>
> 3. DWG34 also calls for a AN742-6C (clamp that holds the plastic tube which
surrounds the cable as it exits the fuse). I cant find this clamp in my list
of bag contents and wonder if the name/desgination may have changed?
This is a simple adel clamp. of size 6.
>
>
> 4. OK, so not all my question have to do with the rudder..this one is a shoulder
harness installation question. The plans do not designate the bolt/nut/washer
type required to attach the harness cable to the bracket on the fuse
or to attach the harness cable to the shoulder harness attachment. Im assuming
(I hate to do this) that you use the same combination as the seatbelts: AN4-6A/AN365-428/AN960-416.
sounds about right. Drilled shank bolt with castigated nut and cotter key.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blade style pitot tube |
Jeff,
I found mine on a wrecked traumahawk in a salvage
yard. The element is history but the airspeed portion
should be unaffected. You might want to try this
avenue.
Rob Miller
80153
> Does anyone know a source for the blade style pitot
> tubes, preferably 12
> volt heated? And those who have them, are you happy
> with them?
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 wings
> Milwaukee, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: water seperator |
After reading some of the posts on this subject, I get the uncomfortable
feeling that some folks are leaving pressure in their compressors for more
than the working day. I hope that I am misinterperting this, but draining
rusty water in any significant amount (of rust) is a sign of potentially
damaging corrosion. Bear in mind that 100 psi or so is about three
atmospheres of pressure, which means that you have three times as much oxygen
in your tank working to reduce the steel to its basic elements. Add to that
the continued pressure stress on the tank and you could be looking at an
early failure. Unless your system has an effective dehydrator between the
compressor and the tank you will always have some water present. Drain those
tanks daily, and the water should stay nearly colorless. Andy Johnson, S.
Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Blade style pitot tube |
Jeff:
I just got one from Wicks. The price for the pitot tube was less than the
price from Gretz. However, I did order the mounting kit from Gretz.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Flaps
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
Does anyone know a source for the blade style pitot tubes, preferably 12
volt heated? And those who have them, are you happy with them?
Jeff Point
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | starting the FAB |
I'm getting ready to start the FAB and was wondering if there's any
suggestions or helpful hints. BTW I have Van's kit and it's for a 4 with a
Bendix system.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: water seperator |
Guilty as charged. ( shut it off, walk away) I'll start dumping it after
each session, I promise.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
> After reading some of the posts on this subject, I get the
> uncomfortable feeling that some folks are leaving pressure in their
compressors for more than the working day. I hope that I am
misinterperting this,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-List (E-mail)"
| Subject: | Platenut hole size HELP |
Hello listers, Van's call out a hole size of 13/32 for the K1000-6 platenut.
Is 15/32 the correct size?
Thanks,
Jack Textor
RV8
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BCar6025(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00 |
Like to buy a flying, and licensed, RV-3A, or an RV-3 with the Phlogiston (not
sure of spelling) spar. Need radio and mode C, therefore need electrical system.
Have budgeted up to 20K. I'm in South Florida but have airline pass.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Retractable Pitot Tube??? |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Gold Lindies
Stan Dzik Memorial Award for Design Contribution William Steppling,
Granbury, TX - RV-6A (N69RV)
Award for: Retractable Pitot Tube
I was looking at the Oshkosh awards and noticed this one. What is the story
on this?
--
Shelby Smith
shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com
RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP
N95EB - reserved
----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Seats and interior for my RV-6A |
Listers,
Any advice to give me about where to get seats for my RV-6A? Which of the
possible sources has the shortest waiting line?
Steve Soule
Huntington Vermont
painted the panel and putting back all the instruments, radios, switches and
doo-dads
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcAAd2ce3siKYGyeT9eVlauCghHQ5AAAA43w
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
| Subject: | Stuck Exhaust Valve |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve
I've seen a few A&P's remove the valve cover and rocker arm, then
literally beat on the exhaust valve/spring with a plastic-tip hammer to
free the exhaust valves. It will make you cringe to watch them do it
but it works.
Bob Japundza
-6 ready to fly
frustrated that winds/weather are keeping me from flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sinlge Lever Power Control |
>Norman Hunger wrote:
>> Does any one have any info on single lever power/prop control developement
>> from Lycombing?
Beech had it in the first of the Vee tails. FW190 in the WWII.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Platenut hole size HELP |
>
> Hello listers, Van's call out a hole size of 13/32 for the K1000-6
platenut.
> Is 15/32 the correct size?
For a #6 platenut a #27 drill will work if you are using a platenut as a
drill guide. I have found that I need to use a #28 drill if I use a
commercial platenut drill jig.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats and interior for my RV-6A |
I used Becky Orndorff. She made exactly what I asked and had many fabrics
to choose from. They fit perfectly and had them done fairly quickly.
http://www.fly-gbi.com/
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (40 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen J. Soule <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 8:54 AM
Subject: RV-List: Seats and interior for my RV-6A
>
> Listers,
>
> Any advice to give me about where to get seats for my RV-6A? Which of the
> possible sources has the shortest waiting line?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington Vermont
> painted the panel and putting back all the instruments, radios, switches
and
> doo-dads
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Hi all,
Just to confirm what Bob has said, putting carbon on bare aluminum will cause corrosion,
given the right environment. It the same problem as putting bare steel
next to aluminum.
When we have to do a carbon layup over aluminum here at work, we put down a light
ply of glass cloth first. That separates the carbon from the aluminum and
eliminates the problem.
Laird (the more I know about composites, the more I love my RV :-)
SoCal
snip
Be very careful with carbon fiber around aluminum, my understanding is that
it can cause corrosion. Same problem as pencil marks.
snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens" <owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
Garry,
Now thats too good of an offer to pass up. Of course I'll have to have someone
fly with me to take the data :-) But it'll have to be after sometime homecoming.
I'll contact you off the list and work out the details.
I'll post the results to the rest of the list after I do the comparsion.
Thanks again for the offer Garry,
Laird (is this list cool or what...)
RV-6 SoCal
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Fri, Aug 4, 2000 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch
Laird,
Really enjoyed talking with you at Arlington and looking over your "6".
I have an offer for you.
I have a new 85" Sensenich that I haven't installed yet. If you would like to find
out if it's what you want, fly up here (South San Jose) and bolt it on, fly
it, and get real numbers. The Margaritas are cold (after flying of course) and
Reid Hillveiw is easy to get into.
Garry, RV6 still finishing.
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anybody have any "REAL" (as in actual) good speed/climb data for an RV-6(a)0-360/72FM
prop with 85" of pitch? If you do have some good data to share,
it would be good to know the weight at which you achieved those numbers.
>
> My RV-6 has the 83" version and I'm trying to figure out what the speed gain/climb
decrease would be by going to the 85". Both I and some of the others I've
talked with can easily overspeed the engine anywhere up to the 11-12K range.
That means it's underpitched by a fair amount, but I have the feeling that the
83" may be a good comprimise prop, but I would like a little data to back it
up.
>
> To anybody in the Southwest, it would be real cool to get some side by side numbers.
Anyone......?
>
> Laird (so much data to take, so little money for fuel) RV-6
> SoCal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Platenut hole size HELP |
Jack Textor wrote:
>
> Hello listers, Van's call out a hole size of 13/32 for the K1000-6 platenut.
> Is 15/32 the correct size?
15/32? think about it. 16/32 = 8/16 = 4/8 = 2/4 = 1/2 so I think 15/32 is a
little large. From memory I recall that a #27 bit is the correct size but I may
be wrong. Best bet is to get your calipers out and measure the size of a number
6 screw and then get the correct bit size.
Gary Zilik
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Textor
> RV8
> Des Moines, IA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve |
Avblend worked for for me better than I would have believed .Larry
Vetterman said it would.Now I believe him
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soldering d-sub connectors |
Bob,
Thanks you so much.
Ross Mickey
> This topic has hit several list-server conversations over the
> past week or so . . . here's a new comic book on the technique
> I use . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
>
> I'll publish an alternative (an easier) technique using paste
> solder . . . as soon as our stocking supply is in hand and available
> from our website catalog.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seat position |
I was wanting to give myself some extra leg room and actually added a row of
hinges aft of what is shown in the plans. This puts it aft of where the
floor starts to rise again. I don't know if I will use it but it was easy
to install.
I am also considering removing the top 2" from my seats (easier access to
the baggage compartment) and removing the seat back adjuster as (like others
have mentioned) I have never seen anyone use them.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Dickson <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: seat position
> I'm ready to attach the hinges that hold the seat backs to the seat
bottoms
> on my -6A, but when I marked the 8" line for the first set of hinges
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Questions...and Questions...and Questions... |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
> 1. The Rudder Stop: Drawing #34 shows a rudder stop made from
> 1x1x1/8" angle. I found the right size angle, but cant really find
> anywhere in the plans or manual exactly what shape I need to cut in
> the angle. DWG34 shows a 1/2 scale drawing, but no
> measurements..etc. Also cant find anywhere what the maximum
> deflection of the rudder should be which would help in determining
> the shape of the rudder stop?
***************************************
Check your instructions, my are at home. I think +/- 35 degrees. the
shape is what you like. Look at some home pages for pictures. I pop
riveted them to one of the J channels I think. I went with the 10 inches.
I put I think a #8 screww countershunk in the F610. I moved it there
cause it would end up under my nefty George O's fairing & I would like to
remove it later. Also run a searce on Scott Mc. He indicates if you raise
it a little the rudder cables will clear the other side. And he is right
again. Once you start to drill , you will see what he is tlaking about.
>
> 2. Ruddercable Fuse Exit: DWG34 also shows where the rudder
> cable exits the fuse giving a distance 10" from the top of the fuse
> and a longitudinal dimension of 151 1/2 in. But it doesnt say where
> the 151 1/2 in is supposed to be measured from.
*********************
All that type of call out will usally be from sta. zero which is the
firewall again I think.
Notice how I cover my self from flames.
Just measuring the
> drawing and doubling the distance (given the drawing is at 1/2
> scale) yields a distance of approx. 2 3/4in from the aft edge of the
> F-610 bulkhead. This looks about right...am I close?
>
> 3. DWG34 also calls for a AN742-6C (clamp that holds the plastic
> tube which surrounds the cable as it exits the fuse). I cant find
> this clamp in my list of bag contents and wonder if the
> name/desgination may have changed?
>
> 4. OK, so not all my question have to do with the rudder..this
> one is a shoulder harness installation question. The plans do not
> designate the bolt/nut/washer type required to attach the harness
> cable to the bracket on the fuse or to attach the harness cable to
> the shoulder harness attachment. Im assuming (I hate to do this)
> that you use the same combination as the seatbelts:
> AN4-6A/AN365-428/AN960-416.
>
**********************************************************
Drw 33 calls out the 3 each an5's & drw 47 ask for a 1/4 holes for the
cable.so yes on the an4 but I assume the length will be right in the kit.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Retractable Pitot Tube??? |
Shelby Smith wrote:
>
Gold Lindies
Stan Dzik Memorial Award for Design Contribution William Steppling,
Granbury, TX - RV-6A (N69RV)
Award for: Retractable Pitot Tube
I was looking at the Oshkosh awards and noticed this one. What is the
story on this?
Shelby,
Got my attention too! Mr. Steppling said it was about a 12" long steel
tube mounted in an internal plastic block at the wing/wingtip junction
at the leading edge of the wing- when shoved into the wing there is just
enough protruding to insert a small plastic "remove before flight" plug.
It pulls out about 9-10" and a magnet on the inner end of it's mounting
block holds it in position. He said it is very accurate. A flexible
tube ties it to the pitot line to the fuse. Have a digiphoto of it
extended and another of the VERY nice -6A it is attached to if
interested-
Still recovering from 5 days at OSH...
From the PossumWorks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
| Subject: | Platenut hole size HELP |
My handy dandy AutoCad Addin sez that a #6 needs a .138" Clearance hole so a
#28 should work. #28 = .1405
-----Original Message-----
> Hello listers, Van's call out a hole size of 13/32 for the K1000-6
platenut.
> Is 15/32 the correct size?
15/32? think about it. 16/32 = 8/16 = 4/8 = 2/4 = 1/2 so I think 15/32 is a
little large. From memory I recall that a #27 bit is the correct size but I
may
be wrong. Best bet is to get your calipers out and measure the size of a
number
6 screw and then get the correct bit size.
Gary Zilik
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Textor
> RV8
> Des Moines, IA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Retractable Pitot Tube??? |
> Mr. Steppling said it was about a 12" long
> steel
> tube mounted in an internal plastic block at the wing/wingtip
> junction
> at the leading edge of the wing- when shoved into the wing there is
> just
> enough protruding to insert a small plastic "remove before flight"
> plug.
> It pulls out about 9-10" and a magnet on the inner end of it's
> mounting block holds it in position.
Guess I'll be the one to demonstrate my ignorance and ask...
Why?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (and per-plan pitot 'cause I don't know any better)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seats and interior for my RV-6A |
"Stephen J. Soule" wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Any advice to give me about where to get seats for my RV-6A? Which of the
> possible sources has the shortest waiting line?
One good source is D. J. Lauritsen at Cleaveland Aircraft Tools. You can
see my D.J. RV-6 interior here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/interior.html
After nearly a year and 165 hrs of use, the interior has proven to be
very durable and comfortable.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 Manifold Pressure Sensor |
I also didn't like putting another hole in the firewall so I mounted the
sensor to the three place manifold that Van's sells along with my oil
pressure and fuel pressure transducers.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000 Manifold Pressure Sensor
>Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 16:17:56 -0400
>
>
>I did not like the options that they gave us to mount them, I really don't
>want a lot going through the baggage compartment. I mounted mine on the
>firewall, inside the engine compartment. I know that they say not to, but
>I did not like the alternatives. I also mounted my processor in the
>baggage compartment and built a cover to go over it to protect it if I use
>the forward baggage compartment. You could mount it behind the instrument
>panel and run your hose along with your wiring harness. You will have
>plenty of wires going through the baggage compartment.
>You can see pictures of my installation on my web site.
>
>
> >
> >
> >All you VM1000 RV-8(A) builders out there...
> >
> >Please help!
> >
> >Where in the heck did you mount the manifold pressure sensor?
> >
> >According to the manual you must have it above the point where you tap
>the
> >engine to attach the sensor hose ( mine is the standard tap off of #3
>cylinder )
> >and it MUST be inside the cockpit and away from all that heat. The only
> >location that I can think of puts in inside the forward baggage
>compartment
> >where "baggage" is sure to shear the little plastic goobers right off of
>the
> >sensor.
> >
> >Thx,
> >
> >- Jim
> >RV-8AQ ( engine stuff )
> >N89JA (reserved)
> >
> >
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo
>(570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks |
One question plus one stupid question:
1. Question: Where did you guys locate the front and rear seat headphone
and mike jacks?
2. Stupid question: Which jack (large or small diameter) is for the
headphones?
George
RV8 N888GK (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Retractable Pitot Tube??? |
So people at airshows don't mangle it.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Retractable Pitot Tube???
>
> > Mr. Steppling said it was about a 12" long
> > steel
> > tube mounted in an internal plastic block at the wing/wingtip
> > junction
> > at the leading edge of the wing- when shoved into the wing there is
> > just
> > enough protruding to insert a small plastic "remove before flight"
> > plug.
> > It pulls out about 9-10" and a magnet on the inner end of it's
> > mounting block holds it in position.
>
>
> Guess I'll be the one to demonstrate my ignorance and ask...
>
> Why?
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage (and per-plan pitot 'cause I don't know any better)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Mon,
07 Aug 2000 14:30:55.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Retractable Pitot Tube??? |
Mike Thompson on 08/07/2000 01:53:11 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Retractable Pitot Tube???
Thanks Mike, all I could figure is it seems important to the EAA to take an old
concept/device and design in potential points of failure. The chances of someone
screwing with your standard pitot are not that great. The chances of having a
novelty monkeyed with are about 100%.
But filling your pop rivets is bad???? Flame away boys,
Eric Henson
>Guess I'll be the one to demonstrate my ignorance and ask...
Why?
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (and per-plan pitot 'cause I don't know any better)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Pressures |
How does a constant speed prop work. In theory it is very simple. There is
a piston inside the dome that is hooked to the blades. When oil is sent to
the prop the piston moves outward/forward pulling the blades to a higher
pitch. When oil is let out of the piston area the piston moves rearward
changing the blades to low pitch.
Now the governor is another matter. It is rather simple in theory but if
you ever take one apart you find it is rather complex. It has a driveshaft
that turns two spring loaded flyweights. The spring tension is changed by
the prop lever. The flyweights also are attached to a poppet valve that
directs the oil into and out of the prop. When you change the spring
tension that forces the flyweights in or out changing the position of the
poppet valve. Oil goes into or out of the prop changing the blade angle
which changes the rpm of the engine which changes the speed the governor
flyweights are turning which changes the position of the flyweights which
slides the poppet value back to the neutral position stopping the oil flow
to the prop. is that clear? HUH?
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Pressures
>Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 17:18:20 -0400
>
>
>Oh yeah...what I meant to say was: Thank you sir, may I have
>another....like how a constant speed prop works.
>
>Bill
>-4 wings
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
>To: "rv list"
>Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 4:55 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Pressures
>
>
> >
> > Awhile ago someone asked for a description of the oil system on our
> > Lycomings used in out RV aircraft. This is a brief one based on my
> > understanding of it.
> >
> > The oil pressure is supplied by a gear driven pump which is part of the
> > accessory housing. The amount of pressure that the pump can develop is
> > determined by the condition of the pump and the clearances of the
>bearings
> > such as rod bearings and crankshaft main bearings. Oil is picked up by
>the
> > pump from the sump through a screen and fed under pressure to the
>bearings
> > through passages in the crankcase and accessory housing as well as to
>the
> > valve train.The pistons and cylinders are lubricated by oil being
>sprayed
> > from the crankshaft bearings The oil drains back into the sump and
>completes
> > the cycle.
> >
> > The oil pressure is controlled by the pressure relief valve. There are
>at
> > least two types that I know off. One is adjustable with a wrench or a
> > screwdriver and the other requires spacers. The proper way to adjust
>the
> > pressure is run the engine to get 80 C and then adjust to the desired
> > pressure. Better still would be to fly it to get normal operating temps
>then
> > adjust. For me that is 80 PSI at say 2400 RPM, this gives more than
>adequate
> > lubrication. The Lycoming manual quotes 95 PSI maximum, this would be
>with
> > the oil at the thermostatic setting of 85C. Higher pressures than 80 PSI
> > only increases the power required to turn the pump plus adding more
>stress
> > to the entire system. The minimum PSI in normal cruise is 55.
> >
> > Idle pressure is controlled by the condition of the engine and here
>Lycoming
> > says 25 PSI.
> >
> > The exception to this would be on the first start of the day when the
> > viscosity of the oil is higher, this well develop pressures higher than
>your
> > relief valve setting until the engine gets up to normal operating
> > temperatures. For this condition Lycoming allows 115 PSI MAX for the
>first
> > takeoff
> >
> > A detailed drawing of the oil system is in the overhaul manual along
>with
> > all the other good stuff that we should all know if we are to properly
> > maintain these engines. The operator's manual plus the overhaul manual
> > should really be part of our RV library.
> >
> > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Platenut hole size HELP |
In a message dated 8/7/00 9:49:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
zilik(at)bewellnet.com writes:
<< Best bet is to get your calipers out and measure the size of a number
6 screw and then get the correct bit size. >>
Second best bet, and easier, is to look on your number drill gauge for the
right body and tap drill sizes for the common machine screw sizes.
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Pressures |
How does a constant speed prop work. In theory it is very simple. There is
a piston inside the dome that is hooked to the blades. When oil is sent to
the prop the piston moves outward/forward pulling the blades to a higher
pitch. When oil is let out of the piston area the piston moves rearward
changing the blades to low pitch.
Now the governor is another matter. It is rather simple in theory but if
you ever take one apart you find it is rather complex. It has a driveshaft
that turns two spring loaded flyweights. The spring tension is changed by
the prop lever. The flyweights also are attached to a poppet valve that
directs the oil into and out of the prop. When you change the spring
tension that forces the flyweights in or out changing the position of the
poppet valve. Oil goes into or out of the prop changing the blade angle
which changes the rpm of the engine which changes the speed the governor
flyweights are turning which changes the position of the flyweights which
slides the poppet value back to the neutral position stopping the oil flow
to the prop. is that clear? HUH?
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Pressures
>Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 17:18:20 -0400
>
>
>Oh yeah...what I meant to say was: Thank you sir, may I have
>another....like how a constant speed prop works.
>
>Bill
>-4 wings
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
>To: "rv list"
>Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 4:55 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Pressures
>
>
> >
> > Awhile ago someone asked for a description of the oil system on our
> > Lycomings used in out RV aircraft. This is a brief one based on my
> > understanding of it.
> >
> > The oil pressure is supplied by a gear driven pump which is part of the
> > accessory housing. The amount of pressure that the pump can develop is
> > determined by the condition of the pump and the clearances of the
>bearings
> > such as rod bearings and crankshaft main bearings. Oil is picked up by
>the
> > pump from the sump through a screen and fed under pressure to the
>bearings
> > through passages in the crankcase and accessory housing as well as to
>the
> > valve train.The pistons and cylinders are lubricated by oil being
>sprayed
> > from the crankshaft bearings The oil drains back into the sump and
>completes
> > the cycle.
> >
> > The oil pressure is controlled by the pressure relief valve. There are
>at
> > least two types that I know off. One is adjustable with a wrench or a
> > screwdriver and the other requires spacers. The proper way to adjust
>the
> > pressure is run the engine to get 80 C and then adjust to the desired
> > pressure. Better still would be to fly it to get normal operating temps
>then
> > adjust. For me that is 80 PSI at say 2400 RPM, this gives more than
>adequate
> > lubrication. The Lycoming manual quotes 95 PSI maximum, this would be
>with
> > the oil at the thermostatic setting of 85C. Higher pressures than 80 PSI
> > only increases the power required to turn the pump plus adding more
>stress
> > to the entire system. The minimum PSI in normal cruise is 55.
> >
> > Idle pressure is controlled by the condition of the engine and here
>Lycoming
> > says 25 PSI.
> >
> > The exception to this would be on the first start of the day when the
> > viscosity of the oil is higher, this well develop pressures higher than
>your
> > relief valve setting until the engine gets up to normal operating
> > temperatures. For this condition Lycoming allows 115 PSI MAX for the
>first
> > takeoff
> >
> > A detailed drawing of the oil system is in the overhaul manual along
>with
> > all the other good stuff that we should all know if we are to properly
> > maintain these engines. The operator's manual plus the overhaul manual
> > should really be part of our RV library.
> >
> > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Review |
>From: BSEckstein(at)cs.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Flight Review
>Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 21:06:11 EDT
>
>
>While not exactly RV related, I would like to ask a couple questions to
>anyone qualified to answer such as CFI's or "Das Fed" (if he's still out
>there).
>
>FAR61.56 (d) states "A person who has, within the period specified in
>paragraph (c) (24 months) of this section, satisfactorily completed a pilot
>proficiency check conducted by the FAA, an approved pilot check airman, or
>a
>U.S. Armed Force, for a pilot certificate, rating, or operating priviledge,
>need not accomplish the flight review required by this section."
>
>Questions:
>
>Is a CFI an "approved pilot check airman"?
>Is a tailwheel endorsement or complex endorsement an 'operating
>priviledge"?
>
>Thanks in advance
>Brian Eckstein
>6A finishing details, details,......
>
>
Brian,
The answer to both your questions is "No". An approved pilot check airmen
is someone that works for a Part 135 or 121 airline and has been designated
as a check airman by the FAA.
The answer to your second question is that an endorsement is an endorsement.
An operating privilege goes into the military and the Part 121 and 135
operators.
Also endorsements are sign-offs that are entered into your logbook and are
required by the regs. Operating privileges are not necessrily entered into
your personal logbook but are kept by company records.
Drop me a line directly if you have any questins and I con go into it in
more detail.
Mike Robertson
"Das Fed"
RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks |
>
>One question plus one stupid question:
>
>1. Question: Where did you guys locate the front and rear seat headphone
>and mike jacks?
>
>2. Stupid question: Which jack (large or small diameter) is for the
>headphones?
>
>George
>RV8 N888GK (reserved)
>
George,
I put the jacks for both seats on the right side, under the top rail. The
front seat jacks are in the aft face of the 804(b?) bulkhead and the rear
seat jacks are in the 806. The rear jacks could also be placed facing up
and in the armrest.
I've already forgotten which one is for the headphone! I think it's the
larger one. Anyway, ground both shells via a WIRED connection to your radio
ground bus. Don't rely on the airframe contact for headphone ground as this
*may* induce a ground loop and resultant noise. Use a fiber or plastic
grommet type washer to eliminate metal to metal contact of both headphone
AND mic jacks to the metal airframe. If your intercom or radio does not
include two additional fiber washers you can find them at any electronic
parts supply store.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
>
> I am also considering removing the top 2" from my seats
> (easier access to
> the baggage compartment) and removing the seat back
> adjuster as (like others
> have mentioned) I have never seen anyone use them.
>
>
I know at least one person who uses the seat back adjuster -- me. I
am 5'-7" tall, and I fly with the seat back in the middle position (at
both the top and bottom). I have a 3" thick back cushion. The right
side is setup the same way. I move the right seat back to the aft
position (top and bottom) when I give a larger person a ride. When I
give a kid a ride, I provide a pillow for him to sit on and move the
top seat adjuster to the forward position.
As far as access to the baggage compartment during flight -- I reach
between the seats. (This option is not available if you have electric
flaps.)
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 554 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cherroff" <sam(at)videoassist.com> |
| Subject: | Free Standing Jig ? |
I've seen a lot of pictures on the various constructors web pages of the
assembly jig that is used during construction of all of the surfaces. In every
case the jig is apparently attached to the ceiling.
My shop has a 16' ceiling and so anchoring the jigs this way would be
problematic. Are there plans for a free standing jig? Can anyone point me to
a site that has pictures?
Thanks,
--Sam
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Cinelogic, Co.
(818)772-4777
fax 772-4733
sam(at)videoassist.com
http://www.videoassist.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks |
The large one is the headphones
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
> 2. Stupid question: Which jack (large or small diameter) is for the
> headphones?
>
> George
> RV8 N888GK (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prime now or later |
If you are going to prime then I have found tht you will want to prime as
you go. With the QB you should prime the interiors now before you start
adding things.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
>From: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy(at)att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Prime now or later
>Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 07:50:47 -0500
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I recently purchased an RV-8 QB and now have completed vert and horiz
>stabilizers, elevators, rudder, ailerons, and flaps. Before I start on
>the wings, is now a good time to prep and prime the completed surfaces,
>or should I wait until closer to the paint job?
>
>Stu McCurdy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Retractable Pitot Tube??? |
Builder 1:
> It pulls out about 9-10" and a magnet on the inner end of it's
>mounting block holds it in position.
Builder 2:
>>Why?
Builder 3 (that's me):
The leading edge is a nice place for a pitot tube in terms of minimizing
drag and accuracy of measurement. The downside is that people walking
around your plane will accidentally bump into it and knock it off. This way
he can have his L.E. pitot tube without having to constantly reinstall it.
I'm not saying I'd do it, but it's kind of a neat idea.
Matthew
-8A 48PP prosealing tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: Retractable Pitot Tube??? |
Mike Thompson wrote:
> Guess I'll be the one to demonstrate my ignorance and ask...
>
> Why?
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage (and per-plan pitot 'cause I don't know any better)
Mike-
The owner appearantly is having a "friendly competition" with a fellow
builder to come up with the best speed mods- (he had an article -IIRC-
from an RVator attached to his plane about this) These included a
modified engine air intake, faired tail tiedown ring etc. He reports
some fairly significant improvements. He mentioned that the tube when
retracted is out of harms way from tangling with tiedowns under the wing
& can be more easily seen/inspected. I would also guess that not having
the vertical section rising into the wing would account for "some"
reduced drag- besides that, it looked pretty darn cool! The judges
obviously liked it for some reason, hence the award...
Hopefully he might offer his own rationale provided he has some access
to the list-
From the PossumWorks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.com.Mon, 07 Aug 2000 13:55:26.-0700(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jig ? |
08/07/2000 02:05:18 PM
Sam,
My shop has a 15' ceiling, I cantilevered the jig off of one of the walls,
you can see a picture of it at:
http://www.users.uswest.net/~batfinks/RV.htm
It makes for some wonderfull storage space for the other spars too!
Scott
RV6 skinning right wing
"Sam Cherroff"
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: cc:
owner-rv-list-server@mat Subject: RV-List: Free
Standing Jig ?
ronics.com
08/07/2000 12:27 PM
Please respond to
rv-list
I've seen a lot of pictures on the various constructors web pages of the
assembly jig that is used during construction of all of the surfaces. In
every
case the jig is apparently attached to the ceiling.
My shop has a 16' ceiling and so anchoring the jigs this way would be
problematic. Are there plans for a free standing jig? Can anyone point me
to
a site that has pictures?
Thanks,
--Sam
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Cinelogic, Co.
(818)772-4777
fax 772-4733
sam(at)videoassist.com
http://www.videoassist.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net> |
| Subject: | S-Tech 30 servo installation |
Hi,
I need some input on installing the servos for a S-Tech 30
auto pilot.
My RV6 is flying and I need suggestions on where to mount
both servos.
My RV has a manual elevator trim only
Any tips will be apprieciated.
Jerry
Bryan N40JP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks |
>1. Question: Where did you guys locate the front and rear seat headphone
>and mike jacks?
>2. Stupid question: Which jack (large or small diameter) is for the
>headphones?
>George
Finally! Easy questions.
Large for head phones. Small for the microphone. Don't forget that most
microphone jacks are not grounded to the fuse. They have special washers that
enable them to float.
On my 8A I located the pilots stuff on the aft part of the forward baggage well
( on the pilots lower starboard ). Easy to reach and it puts the cord out of
the way. The passenger's are located just above the port arm rest with the
jacks hidden buy the head rest support cover.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( and yet more wiring )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Soldering d-sub connectors |
>
>Bob,
>
>Thanks you so much.
>
>Ross Mickey
You're welcome sir. Got a couple more comic books on D-subs
in the works. Probably be up next week some time.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
August 02, 2000 - August 07, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-iz