RV-Archive.digest.vol-ja

August 07, 2000 - August 11, 2000



      
      
      
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From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: S-Tech 30 servo installation
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Jerry: The S-Tec 30 comes with the installation kits, plans, etc., specifically for an RV-6. The plans are pretty clear about where the servos go and include all the necessary hardware. I mounted the roll servo in the right wing of my RV-6 just outboard of the aileron bellcrank. The servo attaches to the bellcrank via a small push rod with rod-ends on both ends. Access is through the bellcrank inspection cover. The pitch servo mounts in the fuselage near the elevator bellcrank just aft of the F-606 bulkhead and attaches to it via a cable system that is included. I am sure it is a lot easier to install as you build. But I know of one RV-6 owner who retrofitted and told me it was pretty straight forward. Shop around for the best prices from your avionics sources, I got mine from Aerotronics, ask for Martin Elshire, 406-259-5006. Pat Hatch RV-4, N17PH @ VRB RV-6, Fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 5:11 PM Subject: RV-List: S-Tech 30 servo installation > > Hi, > I need some input on installing the servos for a S-Tech 30 > auto pilot. > My RV6 is flying and I need suggestions on where to mount > both servos. > My RV has a manual elevator trim only > Any tips will be apprieciated. > Jerry > Bryan N40JP > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks
Date: Aug 07, 2000
I installed mine on the right side on the "mid-height" cross-piece under the stiffener bar that is between the pilot and co-pilot, directly across from where the aft throttle lever is mounted. That location seemed to be convienient to both seats. The larger diameter jack is for the earphones and the smaller is for the mic. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks >Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 13:31:17 -0500 > > >One question plus one stupid question: > >1. Question: Where did you guys locate the front and rear seat headphone >and mike jacks? > >2. Stupid question: Which jack (large or small diameter) is for the >headphones? > >George >RV8 N888GK (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve
Date: Aug 07, 2000
> try that first, before the rope trick... > Ok I Give up....could someone explain the "rope trick" for those of us who don't know it Joe Hine RV4 C-FYTQ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: rope Trick
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Disregard my last post.....Cy Galley explained it in a later post. Joe Hine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Subject: Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Joe, I've never personally done this, but I have a good imagination. The object is to hone the valve guide without pulling the cyclinder off the crank case. You can remove the valve keeper and spring, then using a fancy knot or a short section of Chineese finger grips, tie a cord (rope) around the valve where the keeper was, then push the valve into the cyclinder and let it drop. The hone is slotted and allows the rope to remain in the guide while honing. While honing, care must be taken to not drop any material into the cyclinder or cut the rope. When done, clean the guide hole, pull the rope to reinstall the valve. You can use the sparkplug hole to insert a pair of chop sticks to aid in the positioning of the valve. I'm sure this procedure has some short comings, but you should get the idea. Tom Barnes -6 finishing. ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:05 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve > > > > try that first, before the rope trick... > > > > Ok I Give up....could someone explain the "rope trick" for those of us > who don't know it > > Joe Hine > RV4 C-FYTQ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2000
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jig ?
>My shop has a 16' ceiling and so anchoring the jigs this way would be >problematic. Are there plans for a free standing jig? Can anyone point me to >a site that has pictures? Started with a free standing jig as I was in a rented apartment and couldn't modify the ceiling. When I bought a house, I mounted it to the wall rather than the ceiling to make it more rigid. Don't have any pictures that show details, but could take some. Basically, had a 2x4 foot that was secured to the 4x4 uprights with 2x4 diagonal bracing. Think the foot is 2' long, could measure when I get home. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) President and Founder Friends of P-Chan RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bdubsrv6a(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jig ?
Sam, There is a good picture of a free standing jig on page 31 of "18 years of RV-Ator" if you have a copy. This will at least give you a good idea of how to construct one, hope it helps. Bud West RV-6a, Starting wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve
I use a good grade of HEAVY grease or fuel lube to trap all the excess metal, and gunk.......jolly in aurora, or. Tom Barnes wrote: > > Joe, > I've never personally done this, but I have a good imagination. > The object is to hone the valve guide without pulling the cyclinder off the > crank case. You can remove the valve keeper and spring, then using a fancy > knot or a short section of Chineese finger grips, tie a cord (rope) around > the valve where the keeper was, then push the valve into the cyclinder and > let it drop. The hone is slotted and allows the rope to remain in the guide > while honing. While honing, care must be taken to not drop any material > into the cyclinder or cut the rope. When done, clean the guide hole, pull > the rope to reinstall the valve. You can use the sparkplug hole to insert a > pair of chop sticks to aid in the positioning of the valve. > > I'm sure this procedure has some short comings, but you should get the idea. > > Tom Barnes -6 finishing. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> > To: > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:05 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve > > > > > > > > try that first, before the rope trick... > > > > > > > Ok I Give up....could someone explain the "rope trick" for those of us > > who don't know it > > > > Joe Hine > > RV4 C-FYTQ > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve
Date: Aug 07, 2000
I agree you have a good imagination. If the valve stem is necked down and many are one can tie a string on it. After pushing the valve into the cylinder, (piston must be down) then push the string in also. You will need some hooked wires. Mechanical fingers also help. After cleaning, you reach in and pull out the string and then the valve stem. But you really don't need the string at all. Takes a little fussing. It is easier with someone looking while the other inserts the valve stem. A loop of safety wire around the stem to helps support the valve is also an aid. You aren't removing much material. Any material you remove should not be valve guide metal. Take is why I like the valve guide cleaner and not the reamer. All cleaned material should fall into the exhaust port and not the cylinder itself and will be blown out when the engine starts. Generally the inner end of the guide is better than an inch from the valve seat. A temporary fix is to use Hoppe's #9 lead solvent for gun cleaning. Work it into the guide with the spring off until the valve moves freely. This was good for about 50 hours on a Cessna Skyhawk. But cleaning is the only way to get long term free valve action. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve > > Joe, > I've never personally done this, but I have a good imagination. > The object is to hone the valve guide without pulling the cyclinder off the > crank case. You can remove the valve keeper and spring, then using a fancy > knot or a short section of Chineese finger grips, tie a cord (rope) around > the valve where the keeper was, then push the valve into the cyclinder and > let it drop. The hone is slotted and allows the rope to remain in the guide > while honing. While honing, care must be taken to not drop any material > into the cyclinder or cut the rope. When done, clean the guide hole, pull > the rope to reinstall the valve. You can use the sparkplug hole to insert a > pair of chop sticks to aid in the positioning of the valve. > > I'm sure this procedure has some short comings, but you should get the idea. > > Tom Barnes -6 finishing. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> > To: > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:05 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve > > > > > > > > > try that first, before the rope trick... > > > > > > > Ok I Give up....could someone explain the "rope trick" for those of us > > who don't know it > > > > Joe Hine > > RV4 C-FYTQ > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: 12V Power Outlets
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Product Report - Cig Lighter Socket I figured most builders would want to install a 12v power outlet like a cigarette lighter to charge batteries or run portable avionics, laptops, or whatever. I want a couple of them up front but for awhile all I could find at the auto parts store was too cheap. I had to look elsewhere for better quality. I found it in a rental year 2000 Chrysler 7 passenger van.The socket is part number 56006927 but the finishing touch is the black rubber cap part number 04685591. This cap is labeled "Power Outlet 12V-20A" and it is attached to a ring that sits around the base of the socket. The socket has spade power/ground terminals. The pair with tax came to $26 Canadian which isn't cheap but in my opinion it is the nicest looking set up for auxiliary power. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Subject: oil coolers
From: Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com>
Hello, I saw your posting on moving your oil cooler from the fire wall to the baffle. What brand of oil cooler are you using? I have a Positech from vans and I am giving some thought to exchanging it for the Harrison style as listed in the Vans catalog. In looking though the archives it appears the general conscience is that the Positech will not allow air to pass though it as well as the Harrison and hence it does not cool as well. I am building the baffles now and I would like any input , especially from anyone who has changed from a Positech to a Harrison without any other changes to influence the difference in performance. David RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Screens on NACA vents
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Hi, I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live. Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs out? If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on the airflow to the backseat? Thanks, Ed Perry 80809 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N2579r(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Subject: Re: Blade style pitot tube
I've also seen these style pitot's installed on the Katana 2 seat trainer aircraft. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: 12V Power Outlets
Norman Hunger wrote: > > > Product Report - Cig Lighter Socket > > I figured most builders would want to install a 12v power outlet like a > cigarette lighter to charge batteries or run portable avionics, laptops, or > whatever. I want a couple of them up front but for awhile all I could find > at the auto parts store was too cheap. I had to look elsewhere for better > quality. I found it in a rental year 2000 Chrysler 7 passenger van.The > socket is part number 56006927 but the finishing touch is the black rubber > cap part number 04685591. This cap is labeled "Power Outlet 12V-20A" and it > is attached to a ring that sits around the base of the socket. The socket > has spade power/ground terminals. The pair with tax came to $26 Canadian > which isn't cheap but in my opinion it is the nicest looking set up for > auxiliary power. > > Norman Hunger > RV6A Delta BC I agree a 12v power outlet is a nice touch. Hit this link and scroll down the page to see the outlet in 399SB: http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html Cost with plastic cover, mounting bracket, and spade lugs was about $6.00 at the local Autozone. Sam Buchanan (with fully charged cell phone) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Free Standing Jig ?
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Sam: I built my jig from the end pieces of a "Gorilla Rack" model GR7200 heavy duty storage shelving unit. They make a lighter duty model as well, but I would suggest the heavy duty one since it is very stout. It stands 6' high, and comes with steel cross-pieces and shelving. It is rated to hold 2500lb per shelf. I stored the cross pieces and shelving and made my own cross-pieces ( two 2x4's glued and screwed, with a 1x6 work surface screwed on top) as per Vans jig plans. I mounted 2x4 supports under the legs (with some 1x6 braces) to give support toward the front, since it is front heavy in use. So far, I have used it for my emp. with no problems. If the weight of the wing causes any instability I can bolt it to the floor but I really think that will not be necessary. Plus, after I'm done building, I can put the original cross pieces and shelving in it and use it to hold all my ruined parts! I don't have a web site, but would be happy to e-mail pics if you are interested. I bought the rack at Home Depot for $99, and added about $20 worth of wood. Russ Christopher RV-8 Emp. in SoCal Hi-Desert -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Cherroff Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 12:28 PM Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Jig ? I've seen a lot of pictures on the various constructors web pages of the assembly jig that is used during construction of all of the surfaces. In every case the jig is apparently attached to the ceiling. My shop has a 16' ceiling and so anchoring the jigs this way would be problematic. Are there plans for a free standing jig? Can anyone point me to a site that has pictures? Thanks, --Sam >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Cinelogic, Co. (818)772-4777 fax 772-4733 sam(at)videoassist.com http://www.videoassist.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2000
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch
Mike Thompson wrote: > > > Would be good advertising for them. We had a recent first flight > fixed- pitch (72FM 83") 180 HP (new from Van's) 6A blow by his chase > plane - a constant speed 180 HP 6A. Out climbed _and_ out ran it. > > Of course the chase plane had two aboard, full fuel and all that nice > Imron paint (though fully faired w/ one-piece pants). Unknown empty > weight. > The new bird was in primer, had (of course) one aboard, half fuel and > no leg fairings. Empty weight, 1045 pounds (I helped do the W&B). > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > Fuselage > My guess would be that if it was a first flight that it was a pretty shallow climb out. If you climb out shallow with a fixed pitch and let the rpms build to develop horsepower it will climb as well as a constant speed. Now take the same two airplanes and climb at best angle and the constant speed will win, no contest. Also at lower altitudes a constant speed really has no advantage speed wise. It is when you get to higher altitudes that a constant speed will be much more efficient and have better fuel economy than a fixed pitch. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Reece" <ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00
Date: Aug 07, 2000
BCar- Might try contacting Finn Lassen. He's an RV-3 builder in Florida that may know the whereabouts of local RV-3? Worth a shot? Good luck! mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net ANYONE STILL OUT THERE IN RV3LIST LAND? STARTING TO GET DISCOURAGED! Rob Reece RV-3 SN45 Wichita KS ----- Original Message ----- From: <BCar6025(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 8:31 AM Subject: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00 > --> RV3-List message posted by: BCar6025(at)aol.com > > Like to buy a flying, and licensed, RV-3A, or an RV-3 with the Phlogiston (not sure of spelling) spar. Need radio and mode C, therefore need electrical system. Have budgeted up to 20K. I'm in South Florida but have airline pass. > > ________________________________________________________________________________ Thread-Index: AcAA6GL1dQs5P1imRJ2D/WZOWoFz+w= Thread-Topic: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Listers, RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be flying after working on it for 6+ years. I have been waiting on the weather to clear for the past few days, and tonight I couldn't have asked for better conditions. Sky was clear and no winds. Empty weight 1076 with O-360-A1A, Hartzell prop, full gyro panel, CD player and a heavy paint job. I departed at 7:15 this evening and flew for 25 minutes as it was starting to get dark. On climout, I saw my #3 CHT climb to 430 and the #1 CHT was 200. Temps stabilized when I leveled out at 6000 feet, but #1 went down to 175. Outside air temp was 78 degrees. I am going to experiment with some stainless tape in front of #1 when I fly again. Oil temp was 185 in cruise. Right wing was a bit heavy, but very managable, with 1/4" of aileron deflection to maintain level flight. I had a bit more fuel in the right tank. I was loitering at 115 knots running 13-15" inches and 2300 RPM. I went to 23 squared and saw 160 knots on the GPS. The wheels chriped a few times when I landed but I got her back down in one piece. I was trying for a two-pointer and was a little fast. Stay tuned for more data and pictures. Bob Japundza RV-6 .5 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Screens on NACA vents
In a message dated 8/7/00 10:16:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, edperry64(at)netzero.net writes: << Hi, I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live. Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs out? If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on the airflow to the backseat? Thanks, Ed Perry 80809 >> Ed, I've got some of the same concerns regarding bugs getting into the fuselage mounted vents on my RV-6 (A swarm of hornets pouring from the vents on takeoff would make things interesting). I plan to make some removable plugs to stick in the vents when the airplane is on the ground and/or hangared. Based on my old education (or lack thereof) in fluid dynamics, putting a screen over your vent would keep out bugs and a large part of the air too. However, if you wanted to try it, you could use nylon mesh and see how you like the resulting airflow. If you don't like your results, you could spend a few minutes under the plane with an x-acto knife and cut the screen away. If you do this, share your results... Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot Tube - correction on cheapest price
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Yesterday I posted a message saying that Wicks had a lower price than Gretz Aero on the PH502-12CR heated pitot tube. Apparently, I had the price written down for the older style AN5812 from Gretz which has been replaced by the PH502-12CR. The PH502-12CR is less expensive and due to the constant resistance heater is also better (no current surge when switched on). At $135 including shipping, Gretz now has the lowest price that I have found on the PH502-12CR (except for Wick's -10% Oshkosh special discount - but it's too late for that now). My apologies to Warren Gretz. P.S.: The mounting kit from Gretz Aero is very well made. Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) Flaps http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html -----Original Message----- I just got one from Wicks. The price for the pitot tube was less than the price from Gretz. However, I did order the mounting kit from Gretz. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Re: Retractable Pitot Tube???
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Based on the fact that he and a friend are supposedly doing 200MPH on 160HP by one-upping each other on speed mods, I'd speculate the answer is SPEED. James ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 1:53 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Retractable Pitot Tube??? > > > Mr. Steppling said it was about a 12" long > > steel > > tube mounted in an internal plastic block at the wing/wingtip > > junction > > at the leading edge of the wing- when shoved into the wing there is > > just > > enough protruding to insert a small plastic "remove before flight" > > plug. > > It pulls out about 9-10" and a magnet on the inner end of it's > > mounting block holds it in position. > > > Guess I'll be the one to demonstrate my ignorance and ask... > > Why? > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > Fuselage (and per-plan pitot 'cause I don't know any better) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Re: S-Tech 30 servo installation
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Additionally the STEC servo mounting design was done on a FLYING RV. So it is feasible to do. As mentioned, it is easier to do before the wing is fully closed though. James ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 6:12 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: S-Tech 30 servo installation > > Jerry: > > The S-Tec 30 comes with the installation kits, plans, etc., specifically for > an RV-6. The plans are pretty clear about where the servos go and include > all the necessary hardware. I mounted the roll servo in the right wing of > my RV-6 just outboard of the aileron bellcrank. The servo attaches to the > bellcrank via a small push rod with rod-ends on both ends. Access is > through the bellcrank inspection cover. The pitch servo mounts in the > fuselage near the elevator bellcrank just aft of the F-606 bulkhead and > attaches to it via a cable system that is included. I am sure it is a lot > easier to install as you build. But I know of one RV-6 owner who > retrofitted and told me it was pretty straight forward. > > Shop around for the best prices from your avionics sources, I got mine from > Aerotronics, ask for Martin Elshire, 406-259-5006. > > Pat Hatch > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB > RV-6, Fuselage > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net> > To: > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 5:11 PM > Subject: RV-List: S-Tech 30 servo installation > > > > > > Hi, > > I need some input on installing the servos for a S-Tech 30 > > auto pilot. > > My RV6 is flying and I need suggestions on where to mount > > both servos. > > My RV has a manual elevator trim only > > Any tips will be apprieciated. > > Jerry > > Bryan N40JP > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DBBECK1(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00
i am here in rv 3 land butch rv3 n161bt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com>
Subject: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Hi All, seeings its a bit quiet heres my question, what sort of fuel economy are we all getting, just curious. Thanks Bruce ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <mdivan(at)home.com>
Subject: Screens on NACA vents
Date: Aug 07, 2000
Screens will decrease air flow by 50%. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of edperry64 Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 6:52 PM Subject: RV-List: Screens on NACA vents Hi, I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live. Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs out? If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on the airflow to the backseat? Thanks, Ed Perry 80809 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
Date: Aug 07, 2000
When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you guys are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the second rivet. HELP! - Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Screens on NACA vents
Date: Aug 08, 2000
A properly designed removable cover would solve the problem. Steve Johnson RV-8 80121 ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike <mdivan(at)home.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:32 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Screens on NACA vents > > Screens will decrease air flow by 50%. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of edperry64 > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 6:52 PM > To: RV List > Subject: RV-List: Screens on NACA vents > > > Hi, > > I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the > bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a > perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live. > > Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs out? > If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on > the airflow to the backseat? > > Thanks, > > Ed Perry > 80809 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: STD-???? hardware
Date: Aug 07, 2000
> After using fine thread hardware , (AN,MS,NAS) through the airframe I run > across the coarse threaded stuff on my Lyc. The parts book (PC-20302) for > my 0-320-D3G refers to a lot of STD parts that can be almost anything. > Now if you try & buy some from the ASS catalog it don't mention them. > > Are this Lycoming? Is it a standard like AN? Are they similar to Grade 8 > at the hardware store? Didn't see any public responses to this one. I would like to know the answer to this too. I believe they are some industrial grade. Sacremento Skyranch would probably have the answer if not the hardware for sale. I'd be interested in any other info about it too including where to get things like coarse head drilled head bolts, drilled shaft bolts, castellated, nyloc or otherwise nuts, studs, etc. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Data Plate
Date: Aug 08, 2000
> > In January an "A D Marzo" posted a site where someone was selling a data > > plate for RV's that had a place for S/N, builder's name, etc. but it also > > had a nice etched RV as well . . . the site showing the plate was > > http://members.aol.com/brokenspar/RVplate.jpb The Van's Air Force data plates are made by Ted Blakely of Boring Oregon, and are available through outside sources right now, but Van's will be carrying them very soon. Once they get settled in at their new site in Aurora OR (about a week from now) they'll have them for $12. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Van's Aircraft closing for three days
Hi Listers, The following info was posted within the last couple of days on Van's website. >>ITS MOVING TIME ON THE OLD VANSTEAD.. Yes, our new facility at the Aurora, Oregon airport is finally ready and we are beginning the large job of moving our complete manufacturing, office and flight operations to our new home. In order to complete this rather arduous task in the shortest period possible, VANS AIRCRAFT WILL BE CLOSED FOR BUSINESS ON AUGUST 9, 10, 11. We will not be answering the phones and, Web orders dated on, or after August 08, 2000, will be not be download and processed until August 14, 2000 We will re-open at our new location 14401 NE Keil Rd, Aurora, OR 97002 on Monday, August 14, at 8:00 a.m. The new phone, and fax numbers are: Voice phone: 503-678-6545 Fax: 503-678-6560 A note about our web site: I'm packing up and moving too. Please be patient as I make the necessary address, and other changes to our web pages, to reflect the move to our new facility.<< Best wishes, Ed Hicks. RV-6 QB 60435 (Kit arrives in about 6 days!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
Subject: Re: RE: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Van's says about 25 mpg. After four years and 300 hours in my RV3 I've never calculated it. A typical 45 minute flight for me includes adding 5.5 gals of gas, a leisurely 10 min climb to 9,000 feet or so and then throttle back and spend the next 30 minutes doing low impact aerobatics flips and flops until I'm back at pattern altitude. The gas gage usually reads about the same as before I added the fuel. Question? I have a cruise prop I believe, a Sterba 68X72 that yields about 2750 max level rpm at almost any altitude. I seem to spend a lot of time running in the 2200 rpm range. I here others keep there O320s spun up to 2600 and higher and that may be the best for the engine. Am I not doing the best for my engine by not running the higher rpms? Gray Linzel -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Stewart [mailto:bruce@triton-dive.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:26 AM To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy Hi All, seeings its a bit quiet heres my question, what sort of fuel economy are we all getting, just curious. Thanks Bruce ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Screens on NACA vents
> edperry64(at)netzero.net writes: > > << Hi, > > I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to > install the vent in the > bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems > as though it would be a > perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live. > > Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the > skin to keep the bugs out? > If so how was the airflow affected? If not does > anybody have any ideas on > the airflow to the backseat? > > Thanks, > > Ed Perry > 80809 The screens on the NACA vents of my RV-6 (side of fuselage) are epoxied on where the hose attaches. LOTs of airflow even after 640+ hours. If it did not work, it would have been removed a long time ago. It gets hot in the desert near LA. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Bob, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Almost ready to bolt Wings) Niantic, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RKOdell(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: starting the FAB
<< On the bendix servo most people have the mixture and the throttle reversed >> This comment is interesting to me since I'm at the point of installing the Bendix servo on my IO360-B1B. I spent some time scratching my head about the installation of the servo last night. The little bit of info I have on installation (a few sketches) is contradictory, so I'm a little confused about how this thing should go on. Does the throttle arm go on the left or right (looking forward from the cockpit) ? Keith (scratching my head...again) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks
On the Rv-4..... I went on the right side under the roll-bar area on a "z" bracket that was there allready. Main reasoning was to lessen the tangle of wires I would trip over when exiting & entering the aircraft. Also, hanging-up the headsets would lend itself on the right side too; less cluter on the right side than left side. I placed my intercom there too because the passanger & Pilot could easily reach the spot . akroguy(at)hotmail.com on 08/07/2000 03:16:26 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks > >One question plus one stupid question: > >1. Question: Where did you guys locate the front and rear seat headphone >and mike jacks? > >2. Stupid question: Which jack (large or small diameter) is for the >headphones? > >George >RV8 N888GK (reserved) > George, I put the jacks for both seats on the right side, under the top rail. The front seat jacks are in the aft face of the 804(b?) bulkhead and the rear seat jacks are in the 806. The rear jacks could also be placed facing up and in the armrest. I've already forgotten which one is for the headphone! I think it's the larger one. Anyway, ground both shells via a WIRED connection to your radio ground bus. Don't rely on the airframe contact for headphone ground as this *may* induce a ground loop and resultant noise. Use a fiber or plastic grommet type washer to eliminate metal to metal contact of both headphone AND mic jacks to the metal airframe. If your intercom or radio does not include two additional fiber washers you can find them at any electronic parts supply store. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com>
Subject: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch
Date: Aug 08, 2000
>Mike Thompson wrote: >This could get interesting! I wonder if Sensenich would sponsor some fuel (Ed?). Of course we would be interested! Send me a proposed test plan off line and we (Sensenich) will cough up the fuel $$$. I may even buy lunch if I wouldn't be accused of slanting the test results! Ed Zercher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFCPAC(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00
hi rob, haven't been flying much fianlly finished the house that we bought 6 months ago.now the weather is not to good. i had a problem with the computer and lost everyone's address. the rv is still flying great keep in touch dan carley rv3a-148cw ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: 12V Power Outlets
Found mine at the marine/boat store. Was made of stainless steel & had a rubber cap. Cost....5 or 6 bucks with tax. nhunger(at)sprint.ca on 08/07/2000 09:40:11 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: 12V Power Outlets Product Report - Cig Lighter Socket I figured most builders would want to install a 12v power outlet like a cigarette lighter to charge batteries or run portable avionics, laptops, or whatever. I want a couple of them up front but for awhile all I could find at the auto parts store was too cheap. I had to look elsewhere for better quality. I found it in a rental year 2000 Chrysler 7 passenger van.The socket is part number 56006927 but the finishing touch is the black rubber cap part number 04685591. This cap is labeled "Power Outlet 12V-20A" and it is attached to a ring that sits around the base of the socket. The socket has spade power/ground terminals. The pair with tax came to $26 Canadian which isn't cheap but in my opinion it is the nicest looking set up for auxiliary power. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jig ?
Look for the posts on using a ladder and folding metal saw horses. Cheap, portable & useable when the project is over. Home-depo has real slick folding metal saw horses that fold up real small. I could park my Ford Explorer on them when opened up. These saw horses ( 21 bucks) and a 8 foot or 10 foot extention ladder is what I reccomend. Bdubsrv6a(at)aol.com on 08/07/2000 09:21:16 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Free Standing Jig ? Sam, There is a good picture of a free standing jig on page 31 of "18 years of RV-Ator" if you have a copy. This will at least give you a good idea of how to construct one, hope it helps. Bud West RV-6a, Starting wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
Date: Aug 08, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > >When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you guys >are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the >rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet >interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the >second rivet. > >HELP! > >- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp. > Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get the required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at once. Tommy 6A on the gear Ridgetop, TN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Screens on NACA vents
In a message dated 8/7/00 10:09:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM writes: << I've got some of the same concerns regarding bugs getting into the fuselage mounted vents on my RV-6 (A swarm of hornets pouring from the vents on takeoff would make things interesting). I plan to make some removable plugs to stick in the vents when the airplane is on the ground and/or hangared. Based on my old education (or lack thereof) in fluid dynamics, putting a screen over your vent would keep out bugs and a large part of the air too. >> Right you are. Get some non-hornet created honeycomb (I used aluminum but aramid should work too) from your compost builder friends and place a 2" diameter piece of it in the cylindrical portion of Van's standard scoops. Other shapes are easy to make. Just band saw oversized and disc sand to final shape. Hold in place with your favorite adhesive (pro-seal?). -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
--- Bob Japundza wrote: > > > Listers, > > RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana > airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be > flying > after working on it for 6+ years. Congratulations! Can't wait! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: Platte Nuts, Daaaa, Bingo!!
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Hi listers, After revisiting the plans, manual and with your help, the light finally came on for me. When helping with questions, don't assume the lister (me) has a brain. Never having used plate nuts (learned to spell it too) I was assuming the main hole should be drilled big enough for the actual body of the plate nut to slide through (think this came from my old modeling days using blind nuts). I now understand that usually the nut is mounted flush with the structure and the main hole just has to be big enough for the bolts to pass through before seating in the plate nut. Thank goodness I just slowed down and ask for help, which saved me from drilling the rudder horn and, spar and rib to large. Thanks Again!! Jack RV8 rudder Des Moines, IA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Imfairings(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Flight Review
Brian, A CFI is an official check airman, whatever that means, and signs the flight review. When I do an endorsement such as a conventional gear check out, I include a flight review endorsement if the airman wants, just to avoid confusion. Bob Fairings Etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Subject: Re: Screens on NACA vents
Date: Aug 08, 2000
I used fiberglass screen door material on mine. Cut it slightly larger than the end of the vent that goes into the scat tube, lay it over the hole, and slide the scat tube over it to hold it. No mess, and easy to remove if necessary. I don't know about impeding airflow, as I've never flown without it, but there is plenty of airflow at taxi speeds (of course this is on a 6a with the vents in the prop slipstream) and at cruise it will blow your hat (and some of your hair) off. Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID RV6A - First flight 11/20/96 ebundy(at)micron.net > I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the > bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a > perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live. > > Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs out? > If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on > the airflow to the backseat? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: vent screens, fuel economy, and
Date: Aug 08, 2000
I installed screen on my RV-4 vents and everything worked fine. Don't put them between the vent and the skin though... that will destroy the airflow. Put a piece higher up in the vent. Mine was installed where the vent connected to the hose. You could barely see it from the outside. Worked fine. Fuel economy with an O-320-E3D, wood prop, RV-4 running 100LL here in the midwest was always 7.5 to 8 gph, usually closer to 7.5. When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you guys are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the second rivet. Dang, no good advice here. Everybody does this the first time around. Wiggle both pop rivets in place, pull each half way, wiggle a little more, then set one, wiggle, so on. Worked for mine. You'll remember to offset these rivets on the other control surfaces....right? You will have problems like this throughout the construction of your project. :-( Always remember to think about what is behind that hole you're about to drill BEFORE you drill it. This is particularly important around the spars. BTW, I fill all my pop rivets with auto body seam sealer. I use the aluminum colored stuff. You dab a little in the hole and wipe off te excess with solvent dampened rag. Works great, no sanding necessary, and seals out water. You can paint right over it or it looks fine next to bare aluminum. FWIW, I don't worry about the stems being visible as someone pointed out. I'm pretty careful, but even I wouldn't worry about that one. I mean, what a preflight.... first check the oil, then check all the pop rivet stems. Ack! Vince Frazier Harmon Rocket II N314VF reserved http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html <-----Rocket website ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
>What sort of fuel economy are we all getting..... O-320, 160hp: 7-7.5gph at 2400 and 18-20 inches, EGT 25 degrees rich of peak, 5-8000 feet altitude. At that RPM, true of 171mph all day long (RV-4). 22.5 -24.5mpg: better than your SUV. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Flight Review
Hi Guys, Actually, a CFI is not a check airman. A check airman is an employee of the FAA or an airline who is authorized to conduct flight checks. A CFI's privilege endorsement (tailwheel, complex, high performance, high altitude) is not a substitute for a BFR. To my knowledge, the only substitutes for a formal BFR are: 1) a flight test (passed) with either an FAA inspector, a DE, or the chief instructor of a Part 141 school with examining authority; and 2) a completed and signed-off phase of the Wings program, which includes the one hour of ground and one hour of flight required by the actual BFR. If any other substitutes exist, I'd like to learn of them. Regards, Ken Balch, CFI, etc. RV-8 #81125 Ashland, MA cockpit stuff Imfairings(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Brian, > A CFI is an official check airman, whatever that means, and signs the flight > review. > When I do an endorsement such as a conventional gear check out, I include a > flight review endorsement if the airman wants, just to avoid confusion. > Bob > Fairings Etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Chief86249(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: STD-???? hardware
There is an outfit called (I think) Plating Unlimited that has an FAA-PMA approved process for replating all your old hardware. It cost only $5 per pound. This is much cheaper than purchasing all new hardware. As soon as I get the phone number I'll post it here. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)exmsft.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Cool question... I'm eager to see what others have as well. My setup: RV-3A O-320 160hp Warnke 72x70 unfiltered ram air aspirated No non-stock aero mods Here are the rough numbers I use for cross country. I'm putting a RMI fuel flow meter in today (coincidence). ASAP I'll have real numbers. Minimum staight and level power setting is 1550rpm at 85mph. 1600 rpm 100mph My approch power setting 2000 rpm 140mph @ 5.2gph (Based on consumed fuel for a 2 hr cross country at 2000rpm and 0 Pres. Alt) 2300 rpm 170mph @ ~7.0 gph 2400 rpm 180mph @ 8.0 gph (Based on consumed fuel for a 2 hr cross country at 2400rpm and 9k Pres. Alt.) 2500 rpm 190mph @ ~8.5 gph Like I said, these are half baked numbers. Once I have the fuel flow meter, I'm going to do a full test suite with a matrix for presure altude and power setting. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 10:26 PM Subject: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy > --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com> > > Hi All, > > seeings its a bit quiet heres my question, what sort of > fuel economy are we all getting, just curious. > > Thanks > Bruce > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: fuel economy
Date: Aug 08, 2000
I responded off line to this question, but on reflection thought others would like to see my results too. Rv6A 160HP Lycoming, Warnke prop - results from Matronics Fuel Scan Lite model: 2,300RPM 8,000-ft 7.0 to 7.1 GPH 175TAS 2,050RPM 8,000-ft 5.0 GPH 165 TAS Full Power take off a bit over 10GPH with electric boost pump on (creates a small error) - when pump is off drops to somewhat over 9.5 or so Operating off a 7,500-ft airport. FWIW John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: starting the FAB
Hi Keith, As viewed from the cockpit forward, the throttle arm is on the right of the Bendix throttle body. The mixture control rotation can be confused because the drawings in the lycoming manuals seems to indicate the wrong direction for R (rich) or ICO, idle cut off. Look at the throttle body mixture arm and you'll get the rotation correct. Tom Brown RV4 flying RV4Brown(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Charles Chandler <ylcrc(at)TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00
I'm out here in RV3 land too. I think we are all so quiet because it is impossible to describe the thrill of flying such a great airplane. And we assume all the other RV3 pilots have experienced it for themselves. The other thing pilot's usually put on lists like this is information about problems they have been having with their planes. But my RV3 hardly ever gives me any problems. I've had the notorious landing gear shimmy, but greatly reduced that by balancing the wheel pants. I've had the wooden propellor get loose and now make sure the bolts are checked and tightened periodically. I don't respond to requests to buy an RV3 because I don't want to sell mine and hope I never do. Don't get discouraged. We can still communicate when something comes up we need information about. Chuck N893FS Lubbock, TX ________________________________________________________________________________ Thread-Index: AcABEFgO/YYEVy4zQBSTUZvX/B15lQAO3WiA
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: STD-???? hardware
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Thread-Topic: RV-List: STD-???? hardware Now that I'm thinking about it, all the bolts on my Lyc have LE embossed on the heads...but I'd like to know where to get some more if I need them. Bob Japundza RV-6 .5 :-)hrs -----Original Message----- From: Randall Henderson [mailto:randallh(at)home.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:59 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: STD-???? hardware > After using fine thread hardware , (AN,MS,NAS) through the airframe I run > across the coarse threaded stuff on my Lyc. The parts book (PC-20302) for > my 0-320-D3G refers to a lot of STD parts that can be almost anything. > Now if you try & buy some from the ASS catalog it don't mention them. > > Are this Lycoming? Is it a standard like AN? Are they similar to Grade 8 > at the hardware store? Didn't see any public responses to this one. I would like to know the answer to this too. I believe they are some industrial grade. Sacremento Skyranch would probably have the answer if not the hardware for sale. I'd be interested in any other info about it too including where to get things like coarse head drilled head bolts, drilled shaft bolts, castellated, nyloc or otherwise nuts, studs, etc. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004805445@mail-2.lbay.net>; Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:27:24.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Well done, Bob! We're all looking forward to hearing more about your bird's performance. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, waiting for FAA inspection > ** Original Subject: RV-List: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ > ** Original Sender: "Bob Japundza" > ** Original Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 20:49:13 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Listers, > > RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana > airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be flying > after working on it for 6+ years. > > I have been waiting on the weather to clear for the past few days, and > tonight I couldn't have asked for better conditions. Sky was clear and > no winds. > > Empty weight 1076 with O-360-A1A, Hartzell prop, full gyro panel, CD > player and a heavy paint job. > > I departed at 7:15 this evening and flew for 25 minutes as it was > starting to get dark. On climout, I saw my #3 CHT climb to 430 and the > #1 CHT was 200. Temps stabilized when I leveled out at 6000 feet, but > #1 went down to 175. Outside air temp was 78 degrees. I am going to > experiment with some stainless tape in front of #1 when I fly again. > Oil temp was 185 in cruise. Right wing was a bit heavy, but very > managable, with 1/4" of aileron deflection to maintain level flight. I > had a bit more fuel in the right tank. > > I was loitering at 115 knots running 13-15" inches and 2300 RPM. I > went to 23 squared and saw 160 knots on the GPS. The wheels chriped a > few times when I landed but I got her back down in one piece. I was > trying for a two-pointer and was a little fast. > > Stay tuned for more data and pictures. > > Bob Japundza > RV-6 .5 hours > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch
> > >Mike Thompson wrote: > >This could get interesting! I wonder if Sensenich would sponsor > some fuel > (Ed?). > > Of course we would be interested! Send me a proposed test plan off > line and > we (Sensenich) will cough up the fuel $$$. I may even buy lunch if I > wouldn't be accused of slanting the test results! > > Ed Zercher This could be a project. Laird Owens is running a new 72FM 83", has talked of going up to San Jose where Garry Legare has offered him the use of a new 72FM 85". Wouldn't it be interesting if Ed could get a 72FM 86" loaner sent to Garry? Three different fixed pitch props tested for takeoff distance, climb rates, 4-way GPS speeds - all on the same airframe, the same day and flown by the same pilot. Can you say "consistency"? Sounds like a Sport Aviation article - Kitplanes, too. Take plenty of pictures, guys! Now, rotate these props though Laird's RV-6 _and_ an RV-8... Primarily, though, for Sensenich, we could have a constant speed -6 w/ O-320 (Gary Sobek) and CS O-360 (who was that volunteer?) to provide comparison numbers. First time in a long time I wished I still lived on the West Coast... Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Hi All, When I had the O-290 in my RV-3, I normally flew at at 165 mph true ias between 9,500' and 11,500' for cross country flights. I frequently flew with another RV-3, N51RV, which was powered by an IO-320. We consistantly burned 6.0 gph. The LOM M332A engine (245 cu.in.) at 160 mph true ias burns 5.0 gph, and at 175-180 mph true ias at 9,500' burns 6.2 gph. I am in the process of completely rewiring my RV-3. I am installing a Microair 760 COM and a fuelscan (Matronics) fuel flow meter. I thought I might find a sweet spot in fuel consumption by varying the mp and rpm at a given air speed. Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV (Why does an annual take more than a year?) :-( ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)exmsft.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Date: Aug 08, 2000
The engine must be run at higher power setting periodically to evaporate water that builds up in the oil. Lycoming does have a recomended regiment and they've even posted it online http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/frequency_of_flight.htm l I personally like to run my oil up to 90-110C for about an hour at least once every two weeks. This is just my own rule of thumb. Bruce Meacham ----- Original Message ----- From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 4:35 AM Subject: RE: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" > > Van's says about 25 mpg. After four years and 300 hours in my RV3 I've > never calculated it. A typical 45 minute flight for me includes adding 5.5 > gals of gas, a leisurely 10 min climb to 9,000 feet or so and then throttle > back and spend the next 30 minutes doing low impact aerobatics flips and > flops until I'm back at pattern altitude. The gas gage usually reads about > the same as before I added the fuel. > > Question? I have a cruise prop I believe, a Sterba 68X72 that yields about > 2750 max level rpm at almost any altitude. I seem to spend a lot of time > running in the 2200 rpm range. I here others keep there O320s spun up to > 2600 and higher and that may be the best for the engine. Am I not doing the > best for my engine by not running the higher rpms? > > Gray Linzel > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bruce Stewart [mailto:bruce@triton-dive.com] > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:26 AM > To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy > > > Hi All, > > seeings its a bit quiet heres my question, what sort of fuel > economy are we all getting, just curious. > Thanks > Bruce > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Welcome Brian !
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Welcome, Sounds like you have a great place to build! You might try to order your kit with credit card by phone. But from an earlier post I believe they will be closed from Wed through Sun to move. Happy Building ! Jack RV8 rudder Des Moines, IA Jack Textor President PERSONNEL INCORPORATED 604 Locust, Suite 516 Des Moines, IA 50309-3720 515-243-7687 wk 515-243-3350 fax pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
Date: Aug 08, 2000
That doesn't work with the pre-punched skins, Tommy. I didn't get to vote on where the holes were! :) They are directly in line with each other. Still looking for help on this one... - Bill -----Original Message----- From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:14 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> >To: RV-List >Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM >Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > >> >>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you >guys >>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the >>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet >>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the >>second rivet. >> >>HELP! >> >>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp. >> > >Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get the >required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at >once. > >Tommy >6A on the gear >Ridgetop, TN > > >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)exmsft.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Hey Less, A couple questions... What's the sea level power altitude for the LOM? And what alitude do you figure you get maximum fuel efficiency? Also how is overboost on takeoff? You seem to be getting significantly better fuel efficiency than an O-320 which is an incredibly efficient engine. I'm wondering what factors cause this. Bruce Meacham ----- Original Message ----- From: <LessDragProd(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:29 AM Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy > --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com > > Hi All, > > When I had the O-290 in my RV-3, I normally flew at at 165 mph true ias > between 9,500' and 11,500' for cross country flights. I frequently flew with > another RV-3, N51RV, which was powered by an IO-320. We consistantly burned > 6.0 gph. > > The LOM M332A engine (245 cu.in.) at 160 mph true ias burns 5.0 gph, and at > 175-180 mph true ias at 9,500' burns 6.2 gph. > > I am in the process of completely rewiring my RV-3. I am installing a > Microair 760 COM and a fuelscan (Matronics) fuel flow meter. I thought I > might find a sweet spot in fuel consumption by varying the mp and rpm at a > given air speed. > > Jim Ayers > RV-3 N47RV (Why does an annual take more than a year?) :-( > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Hello!
Date: Aug 08, 2000
> Hey every one, I just want to introduce myself. My name is Brian Chesteen, > Electro Mechanical Engineer living in Newport, Tn. [snip] > Today I am sending in the order form for the emp kit. Does anyone know if > you can fax this thing in to save a few days? Welcome Brian! Normally you could probably save some time FAXing your order, however Vans is in the middle of their big move right now and that will put a crimp in things. According to their web page, their phones are down today through August 14. The details, including their new phone/fax/address, are on their web page at http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/moving.htm. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: 12V Power Outlets
Hi all, I have my Cig Lighter mounted out of sight just behind my instrument panel. One of the things I use it for is to tap into the 12V system to float charge the battery. That way you don't have to dive under the panel to pull the battery cover every time. I wouldn't use it to charge a dead battery though. Laird RV-6 - had my 1st "sock straight out" 90deg crosswind takeoff sunday :-0 SoCal Found mine at the marine/boat store. Was made of stainless steel & had a rubber cap. Cost....5 or 6 bucks with tax. Product Report - Cig Lighter Socket I figured most builders would want to install a 12v power outlet like a cigarette lighter to charge batteries or run portable avionics, laptops, or whatever. I want a couple of them up front but for awhile all I could find at the auto parts store was too cheap. I had to look elsewhere for better quality. I found it in a rental year 2000 Chrysler 7 passenger van.The socket is part number 56006927 but the finishing touch is the black rubber cap part number 04685591. This cap is labeled "Power Outlet 12V-20A" and it is attached to a ring that sits around the base of the socket. The socket has spade power/ground terminals. The pair with tax came to $26 Canadian which isn't cheap but in my opinion it is the nicest looking set up for auxiliary power. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
In a message dated 08/08/2000 8:52:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time, bruceme(at)exmsft.com writes: > Hey Less, > > A couple questions... What's the sea level power altitude for the LOM? The LOM M332A produces 115 hp at 2550 rpm and 29.5" mp, and 140 hp 2700 rpm and 35" mp. These are both sea level power settings. > And what alitude do you figure you get maximum fuel efficiency? Also how is > overboost on takeoff? The supercharger provides an additional 5" mp for takeoff and climb (5 min. limited). > You seem to be getting significantly better fuel efficiency than an O-320 > which is an incredibly efficient engine. I'm wondering what factors cause > this. The LOM engine was designed in 1959. It is a dry sump engine with hemi heads, an overhead cam, fuel injected and supercharged. The fuel flow sucks (pun intended) with the supercharger running. > Bruce Meacham I don't have the fastest RV-3 (196 mph true ias at 7,500' density altitude), but I believe I have the cleanest RV-3. That helps the fuel flow numbers. BTW my full throttle unsupercharged Vne critical altitude is above 1,500'. (I can acheive the 210 mph ias Vne in level flight at, or below, that altitude.) When I get the new instrument panel and wiring installed, I plan to get Vne critical altitude numbers both with, and without, the supercharger engaged. Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
Date: Aug 08, 2000
If you haven't pulled either rivet, I would shorten the shanks. If you have pulled one and can't get the other in then I would cut one just long enough to have some shank in the hole and epoxy it in. One rivet less on the rudder cap will not a problem. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 10:48 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > That doesn't work with the pre-punched skins, Tommy. I didn't get to vote > on where the holes were! :) They are directly in line with each other. > > Still looking for help on this one... > > - Bill > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:14 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> > >To: RV-List > >Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM > >Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > > > > >> > >>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you > >guys > >>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the > >>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet > >>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the > >>second rivet. > >> > >>HELP! > >> > >>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp. > >> > > > >Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get the > >required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at > >once. > > > >Tommy > >6A on the gear > >Ridgetop, TN > > > > > >> > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
Date: Aug 08, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 11:26 PM Subject: RV-List: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ Congratulations Bob. However before tapping the front cyl. very much I would check the probe as the temp.you stated seems very low.Also if it's a new our overhauled eng keep the power up for the first few hours. Ollie N795LW 6A Tampa > > Listers, > > RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana > airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be flying > after working on it for 6+ years. > -> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Subject: Builders Groups
Date: Aug 08, 2000
I am beginning construction on an RV-8 QB and wondering if there is a builder's group in my area. I live about an hour SE of Chicago in LaPorte, IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help. Bob Waalkes RV-8 QB Emp. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: "Richard L. Lamb" <rll(at)netcom.com>
Subject: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos
Hello listers, I've decided to not pursue the RV-8 project I had been contemplating. Therefore, I'd like to offer the following for sale: Orndorff Videos: Sheet Metal Tools Pre-Punched Empennage (2 tapes) RV-8 Wings Construction (2 tapes) RV-8 Fuselage Construction (2 tapes) RV-8 Finishing Kit --------- Set of 8 tapes: $80 Bingelis Books: Tony Bingelis on Engines Firewall Forward Sportplane Construction Techniques The Sportplane Builder -------- Set of 4 books: $40 Van's RV-8/RV-8A Preview Plans: $25 18 Years of the RVator: $20 Buyer pays shipping. I also have a number of non-"aircraft specific" tools available. Those of you who live close enough to Spokane, WA to make delivery or pick-up practical are invited to e-mail me for a list. Richard Lamb rll(at)netcom.com (509) 927-0698 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: starting the FAB
Date: Aug 08, 2000
On the right with the arms facing down and the throttle arm closest to the mounting point. >From: RKOdell(at)AOL.COM >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: starting the FAB >Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 07:57:22 EDT > > > ><< On the bendix > servo most people have the mixture and the throttle reversed >> > >This comment is interesting to me since I'm at the point of installing the >Bendix servo on my IO360-B1B. I spent some time scratching my head about >the >installation of the servo last night. The little bit of info I have on >installation (a few sketches) is contradictory, so I'm a little confused >about how this thing should go on. Does the throttle arm go on the left or >right (looking forward from the cockpit) ? > >Keith (scratching my head...again) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: STD-???? hardware
From: Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
I have been told buy 2 AI's that all the crazy numbers are Manufactor's part numbers. I guess because we don't need that much stuff, the catalog houses don't carry them. I was told to go to TEX-Air & they would have everthing. Main thing I learned is Grade 8 won't get it. Now here is a new one. I installed the Skytech starter this week. IT says don't use flat washers under the star washers. ????? Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************** writes: > > > > After using fine thread hardware , (AN,MS,NAS) through the > airframe I run > > across the coarse threaded stuff on my Lyc. The parts book > (PC-20302) for > > my 0-320-D3G refers to a lot of STD parts that can be almost > anything. > > Now if you try & buy some from the ASS catalog it don't mention > them. > > > > Are this Lycoming? Is it a standard like AN? Are they similar to > Grade 8 > > at the hardware store? > > Didn't see any public responses to this one. I would like to know > the answer > to this too. I believe they are some industrial grade. Sacremento > Skyranch > would probably have the answer if not the hardware for sale. I'd be > interested in any other info about it too including where to get > things like > coarse head drilled head bolts, drilled shaft bolts, castellated, > nyloc or > otherwise nuts, studs, etc. > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) > Portland, OR > http://www.edt.com/homewing > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Flight Review
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Ken, You can do a BFR and an endorsement in the same ride, just make sure the one hour ground and one flight are there. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Flight Review >Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 10:56:10 -0400 > > >Hi Guys, > >Actually, a CFI is not a check airman. A check airman is an employee of >the FAA >or an airline who is authorized to conduct flight checks. > >A CFI's privilege endorsement (tailwheel, complex, high performance, high >altitude) is not a substitute for a BFR. To my knowledge, the only >substitutes >for a formal BFR are: 1) a flight test (passed) with either an FAA >inspector, a >DE, or the chief instructor of a Part 141 school with examining authority; >and >2) a completed and signed-off phase of the Wings program, which includes >the one >hour of ground and one hour of flight required by the actual BFR. If any >other >substitutes exist, I'd like to learn of them. > >Regards, >Ken Balch, CFI, etc. >RV-8 #81125 >Ashland, MA >cockpit stuff > >Imfairings(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > > > Brian, > > A CFI is an official check airman, whatever that means, and signs the >flight > > review. > > When I do an endorsement such as a conventional gear check out, I >include a > > flight review endorsement if the airman wants, just to avoid confusion. > > Bob > > Fairings Etc. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Bill, I had the same problem when I did my tail last year. What I did was to set the first one then with the second one I tried to somewhat angle it in a bit, then slowly pulled up the rivet and pushed in on the head of the rivet puller. Because the rivet here expands from the back first as I pulled the rivet on pushed on the rivet puller the shank slide in as I was going and set up perfectly. Or as close to perfect as I could see. It was a bit fustrating at first but when I decided to just do it everything seemed to work out fine. Good Luck!! Mike Robertson >From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... >Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 08:48:53 -0700 > > >That doesn't work with the pre-punched skins, Tommy. I didn't get to vote >on where the holes were! :) They are directly in line with each other. > >Still looking for help on this one... > >- Bill > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:14 AM >Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> > >To: RV-List > >Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM > >Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > > > > >> > >>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you > >guys > >>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the > >>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet > >>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the > >>second rivet. > >> > >>HELP! > >> > >>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp. > >> > > > >Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get >the > >required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at > >once. > > > >Tommy > >6A on the gear > >Ridgetop, TN > > > > > >> > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: STD-???? hardware
Perhaps you believe all that stuff about rolled vs cut threads, but I sure don't. A good grade 8 nut and bolt from NAPA is just fine for non stressed applications. I wouldn't use them for rod bolts or case through bolts but if you want to use eight $9 dollar Lycoming screws to hold on your valve cover instead of a 50 cent NAPA equivalent, then go for it. Bruce Glasair III Don R Jordan wrote: > > I have been told buy 2 AI's that all the crazy numbers are Manufactor's > part numbers. > I guess because we don't need that much stuff, the catalog houses don't > carry them. I was told to go to TEX-Air & they would have everthing. Main > thing I learned is Grade 8 won't get it. > > Now here is a new one. I installed the Skytech starter this week. IT says > don't use flat washers under the star washers. ????? > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ********************************************** > > writes: > > > > > > > After using fine thread hardware , (AN,MS,NAS) through the > > airframe I run > > > across the coarse threaded stuff on my Lyc. The parts book > > (PC-20302) for > > > my 0-320-D3G refers to a lot of STD parts that can be almost > > anything. > > > Now if you try & buy some from the ASS catalog it don't mention > > them. > > > > > > Are this Lycoming? Is it a standard like AN? Are they similar to > > Grade 8 > > > at the hardware store? > > > > Didn't see any public responses to this one. I would like to know > > the answer > > to this too. I believe they are some industrial grade. Sacremento > > Skyranch > > would probably have the answer if not the hardware for sale. I'd be > > interested in any other info about it too including where to get > > things like > > coarse head drilled head bolts, drilled shaft bolts, castellated, > > nyloc or > > otherwise nuts, studs, etc. > > > > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) > > Portland, OR > > http://www.edt.com/homewing > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 12V Power Outlets
Date: Aug 08, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Owens, Laird <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 11:06 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: 12V Power Outlets > >Hi all, > >I have my Cig Lighter mounted out of sight just behind my instrument panel. One of the things I use it for is to tap into the 12V system to float charge the battery. That way you don't have to dive under the panel to pull the battery cover every time. I wouldn't use it to charge a dead battery though. > >Laird RV-6 - had my 1st "sock straight out" 90deg crosswind takeoff sunday :-0 >SoCal > I considered the same approach but I was concerned that I'd have to leave the master switch on during the charging which means the turn coordinator, VM-1000 and several other things would be on during charging. Is your Cig Lighter run off the master switch bus? Dennis Persyk N600DP RV6A Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos
will try calling you...interisted....if I can't get in touch with you, will you call me?...jolly dawson 503-678-3343...thanks "Richard L. Lamb" wrote: > > Hello listers, > > I've decided to not pursue the RV-8 project I had been contemplating. > Therefore, I'd like to offer the following for sale: > > Orndorff Videos: > Sheet Metal Tools > Pre-Punched Empennage (2 tapes) > RV-8 Wings Construction (2 tapes) > RV-8 Fuselage Construction (2 tapes) > RV-8 Finishing Kit > --------- > Set of 8 tapes: $80 > > Bingelis Books: > Tony Bingelis on Engines > Firewall Forward > Sportplane Construction Techniques > The Sportplane Builder > -------- > Set of 4 books: $40 > > Van's RV-8/RV-8A Preview Plans: $25 > > 18 Years of the RVator: $20 > > Buyer pays shipping. > > I also have a number of non-"aircraft specific" tools available. > Those of you who live close enough to Spokane, WA to make > delivery or pick-up practical are invited to e-mail me for a > list. > > Richard Lamb > rll(at)netcom.com > (509) 927-0698 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Flight Review
Hi Mike, Absolutely true. I hope I didn't imply otherwise. To clarify: an endorsement does not qualify as a BFR itself, but can be combined with a BFR so long as the other requirements are met. Regards, Ken Mike Robertson wrote: > > Ken, > > You can do a BFR and an endorsement in the same ride, just make sure the one > hour ground and one flight are there. > > Mike Robertson > RV-8A > > >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Flight Review > >Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 10:56:10 -0400 > > > > > >Hi Guys, > > > >Actually, a CFI is not a check airman. A check airman is an employee of > >the FAA > >or an airline who is authorized to conduct flight checks. > > > >A CFI's privilege endorsement (tailwheel, complex, high performance, high > >altitude) is not a substitute for a BFR. To my knowledge, the only > >substitutes > >for a formal BFR are: 1) a flight test (passed) with either an FAA > >inspector, a > >DE, or the chief instructor of a Part 141 school with examining authority; > >and > >2) a completed and signed-off phase of the Wings program, which includes > >the one > >hour of ground and one hour of flight required by the actual BFR. If any > >other > >substitutes exist, I'd like to learn of them. > > > >Regards, > >Ken Balch, CFI, etc. > >RV-8 #81125 > >Ashland, MA > >cockpit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cliff Begnaud" <cbegnaud(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Richard, I would like to buy the 4 books! Where do I send a check? Cliff 303-604-9702 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard L. Lamb" <rll(at)netcom.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 11:22 AM Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos > > Hello listers, > > I've decided to not pursue the RV-8 project I had been contemplating. > Therefore, I'd like to offer the following for sale: > > Orndorff Videos: > Sheet Metal Tools > Pre-Punched Empennage (2 tapes) > RV-8 Wings Construction (2 tapes) > RV-8 Fuselage Construction (2 tapes) > RV-8 Finishing Kit > --------- > Set of 8 tapes: $80 > > Bingelis Books: > Tony Bingelis on Engines > Firewall Forward > Sportplane Construction Techniques > The Sportplane Builder > -------- > Set of 4 books: $40 > > Van's RV-8/RV-8A Preview Plans: $25 > > 18 Years of the RVator: $20 > > Buyer pays shipping. > > I also have a number of non-"aircraft specific" tools available. > Those of you who live close enough to Spokane, WA to make > delivery or pick-up practical are invited to e-mail me for a > list. > > Richard Lamb > rll(at)netcom.com > (509) 927-0698 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Subject: Re: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Would you be interested in selling the video's minus the Pre-Punched Emp. I just that one. If so, how much? Thanks. Bob Waalkes -----Original Message----- From: Richard L. Lamb <rll(at)netcom.com> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:17 PM Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos > >Hello listers, > >I've decided to not pursue the RV-8 project I had been contemplating. >Therefore, I'd like to offer the following for sale: > >Orndorff Videos: > Sheet Metal Tools > Pre-Punched Empennage (2 tapes) > RV-8 Wings Construction (2 tapes) > RV-8 Fuselage Construction (2 tapes) > RV-8 Finishing Kit > --------- > Set of 8 tapes: $80 > >Bingelis Books: > Tony Bingelis on Engines > Firewall Forward > Sportplane Construction Techniques > The Sportplane Builder > -------- > Set of 4 books: $40 > >Van's RV-8/RV-8A Preview Plans: $25 > >18 Years of the RVator: $20 > >Buyer pays shipping. > >I also have a number of non-"aircraft specific" tools available. >Those of you who live close enough to Spokane, WA to make >delivery or pick-up practical are invited to e-mail me for a >list. > >Richard Lamb >rll(at)netcom.com >(509) 927-0698 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Mike Liddekee <jeneral(at)texasconnect.net>
Subject: Re: vent screens, fuel economy, and
that will be fine i guess. forward check to: Mike Liddekee Rt. 13 Box 419A Texarkana, TX 75501 and yes both are 4port. Tuesday, August 08, 2000, 9:27:13 AM, you wrote: FVA> I installed screen on my RV-4 vents and everything worked fine. Don't put FVA> them between the vent and the skin though... that will destroy the airflow. FVA> Put a piece higher up in the vent. Mine was installed where the vent FVA> connected to the hose. You could barely see it from the outside. Worked FVA> fine. FVA> Fuel economy with an O-320-E3D, wood prop, RV-4 running 100LL here in the FVA> midwest was always 7.5 to 8 gph, usually closer to 7.5. FVA> When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how FVA> you guys are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of FVA> the rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet FVA> interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the FVA> second rivet. FVA> Dang, no good advice here. Everybody does this the first time around. FVA> Wiggle both pop rivets in place, pull each half way, wiggle a little more, FVA> then set one, wiggle, so on. Worked for mine. You'll remember to offset FVA> these rivets on the other control surfaces....right? FVA> You will have problems like this throughout the construction of your FVA> project. :-( Always remember to think about what is behind that hole you're FVA> about to drill BEFORE you drill it. This is particularly important around FVA> the spars. FVA> BTW, I fill all my pop rivets with auto body seam sealer. I use the FVA> aluminum colored stuff. You dab a little in the hole and wipe off te excess FVA> with solvent dampened rag. Works great, no sanding necessary, and seals out FVA> water. You can paint right over it or it looks fine next to bare aluminum. FVA> FWIW, I don't worry about the stems being visible as someone pointed out. FVA> I'm pretty careful, but even I wouldn't worry about that one. I mean, what FVA> a preflight.... first check the oil, then check all the pop rivet stems. FVA> Ack! FVA> Vince Frazier FVA> Harmon Rocket II FVA> N314VF reserved FVA> http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html <-----Rocket website ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)exmsft.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Thanks Less, And please post the results. Bruce Meacham ----- Original Message ----- From: <LessDragProd(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 9:14 AM Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy > --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com > > In a message dated 08/08/2000 8:52:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > bruceme(at)exmsft.com writes: > > > Hey Less, > > > > A couple questions... What's the sea level power altitude for the LOM? > > The LOM M332A produces 115 hp at 2550 rpm and 29.5" mp, and 140 hp 2700 rpm > and 35" mp. These are both sea level power settings. > > > And what alitude do you figure you get maximum fuel efficiency? Also how > is > > overboost on takeoff? > > The supercharger provides an additional 5" mp for takeoff and climb (5 min. > limited). > > > You seem to be getting significantly better fuel efficiency than an O-320 > > which is an incredibly efficient engine. I'm wondering what factors cause > > this. > > The LOM engine was designed in 1959. It is a dry sump engine with hemi > heads, an overhead cam, fuel injected and supercharged. The fuel flow sucks > (pun intended) with the supercharger running. > > > Bruce Meacham > > I don't have the fastest RV-3 (196 mph true ias at 7,500' density altitude), > but I believe I have the cleanest RV-3. That helps the fuel flow numbers. > > BTW my full throttle unsupercharged Vne critical altitude is above 1,500'. > (I can acheive the 210 mph ias Vne in level flight at, or below, that > altitude.) > When I get the new instrument panel and wiring installed, I plan to get Vne > critical altitude numbers both with, and without, the supercharger engaged. > > Jim Ayers > RV-3 N47RV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
Date: Sep 08, 2000
Make sure you are using the MK319 blind rivets and not the CS4-4's. I didn't have any problems with my prepunched -6 rudder skin. Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 11:48 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > That doesn't work with the pre-punched skins, Tommy. I didn't get to vote > on where the holes were! :) They are directly in line with each other. > > Still looking for help on this one... > > - Bill > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:14 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> > >To: RV-List > >Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM > >Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... > > > > > >> > >>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you > >guys > >>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the > >>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet > >>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the > >>second rivet. > >> > >>HELP! > >> > >>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp. > >> > > > >Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get the > >required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at > >once. > > > >Tommy > >6A on the gear > >Ridgetop, TN > > > > > >> > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: 12V Power Outlets
Hi Dennis, I ran the cig lighter off the hot side of the essencial bus switch (which is fuse protected) so I could charge and not have any switches on. If you look at the picture on my web page, you can see the essential switch on the far right, and the outlet is mounted just behind it off the upper longeron behind the panel. For those who have the AeroElectric Connection, go to schematic Z-1 "Simple System", find the switch S3 "essential bus alt feed". It's connected to terminal 2. Laird http://members3.clubphoto.com/laird244198/Laird_RV-6_N515L/ SoCal I considered the same approach but I was concerned that I'd have to leave the master switch on during the charging which means the turn coordinator, VM-1000 and several other things would be on during charging. Is your Cig Lighter run off the master switch bus? Dennis Persyk N600DP RV6A Hampshire, IL C38 Laird wrote: snip One of the things I use it for is to tap into the 12V system to float charge the battery. snip >Laird RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: 12V Power Outlets
I ran mine to the battery with a 5 amp c/b so I could trickle charge w/o the master being on. dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net on 08/08/2000 01:59:13 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: 12V Power Outlets -----Original Message----- From: Owens, Laird <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 11:06 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: 12V Power Outlets > >Hi all, > >I have my Cig Lighter mounted out of sight just behind my instrument panel. One of the things I use it for is to tap into the 12V system to float charge the battery. That way you don't have to dive under the panel to pull the battery cover every time. I wouldn't use it to charge a dead battery though. > >Laird RV-6 - had my 1st "sock straight out" 90deg crosswind takeoff sunday :-0 >SoCal > I considered the same approach but I was concerned that I'd have to leave the master switch on during the charging which means the turn coordinator, VM-1000 and several other things would be on during charging. Is your Cig Lighter run off the master switch bus? Dennis Persyk N600DP RV6A Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Chief86249(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: STD-???? hardware
United Plating Works, Inc, FAA-Approved repair station will replate your old bolts,nuts, washers, etc for $5 a pound. An excellent way of going rather than purchasing new hardware. They will also replate your pushrod tubes, valve covers, pressure valve, anything metal. Can be done in either standard cadmium plating or bright (silver) plating. Their phone number is 918-835-4683 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Free Standing Jig ?
Build mine out of scrap iron bolted only to the floor, 3 bolts per stand. just removed them. Gert Sam Cherroff wrote: > > > I've seen a lot of pictures on the various constructors web pages of the > assembly jig that is used during construction of all of the surfaces. In every > case the jig is apparently attached to the ceiling. > > My shop has a 16' ceiling and so anchoring the jigs this way would be > problematic. Are there plans for a free standing jig? Can anyone point me to > a site that has pictures? > > Thanks, > > --Sam > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > Cinelogic, Co. > (818)772-4777 > fax 772-4733 > sam(at)videoassist.com > http://www.videoassist.com > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DWENSING(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Builders Groups
In a message dated 8/8/00 12:15:13 PM Central Daylight Time, waalkes(at)netnitco.net writes: << I live about an hour SE of Chicago in LaPorte, IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help. Bob Waalkes >> Hello Bob, If you have a fax I'll send you a list of the Chicago Area RVators. You can look it over and contact someone close to you or give me a call. Welcome the World of RVs! Dale Ensing 6A finishing Cary Illinois (NW of Chicago) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Engine worth?
Date: Aug 08, 2000
I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked (prop not spinning) into a field and one blade was bent (prop strike). It comes with starter, alt, mags, fuel servo and system. I am having a hard time believing a prop struck engine is worth the $12,500 they are asking for it. Then again, I'm relatively new at this and it is injected (as well as counterbalanced?)....anyone care to comment or advise? Bill -4 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
Date: Aug 08, 2000
> > >I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since >major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked (prop not spinning) >into a field and one blade was bent (prop strike). It comes with starter, >alt, mags, fuel servo and system. I am having a hard time believing a prop >struck engine is worth the $12,500 they are asking for it. Then again, I'm >relatively new at this and it is injected (as well as >counterbalanced?)....anyone care to comment or advise? > >Bill >-4 wings > Bill, I'd look at it but would not pay the asking price. Maybe $8K fully knowing that you may have a bent prop flange or damage to the front seal and case area. Then again, it could very well be mechanically sound but $12.5K would be way beyond my personal financial risk level. Perhaps a sharp engine guru in your area could check it out for you? Good luck in your engine hunt! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD down for paint ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Bill, It could be worth it if the flange isn't bent. If they are willing to have a run-out check done on the flange before you buy it then keep talking. If they are not willing to have a check done then walk away. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Engine worth? >Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 18:35:40 -0400 > > >I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since >major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked (prop not spinning) >into a field and one blade was bent (prop strike). It comes with starter, >alt, mags, fuel servo and system. I am having a hard time believing a prop >struck engine is worth the $12,500 they are asking for it. Then again, I'm >relatively new at this and it is injected (as well as >counterbalanced?)....anyone care to comment or advise? > >Bill >-4 wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Subject: Re: Builders Groups
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Bob, I maintain the mailing list for the Chicago Area group. We lost our editor to cancer last year and since my engine arrived, I have not been real eager to publish newsletters. However, I do publish an abbreviated program prior to the two or three annual events that we plan each year. If you or other readers will send me your mailing address, type of project, and phone number, I will include you in the next mailing coming up soon. This mailing is prompted by our annual fall picnic which is usually the last Sunday in September at Casa de Aero in Hampshire, IL. The date has not been firmed up as yet. We usually have people from all the neighboring states represented. Tom Barnes (junior editor) 904 Saxon Place Buffalo Grove, IL 60089 847-541-6072 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Waalkes <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:06 PM Subject: RV-List: Builders Groups > > I am beginning construction on an RV-8 QB and wondering if there is a > builder's group in my area. I live about an hour SE of Chicago in LaPorte, > IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I > have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator > but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help. > > Bob Waalkes > RV-8 QB Emp. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Repairman's Cert - resolved
As of this morning I'm now in possession of the Air worthiness cert AND Repairman's cert for RV-3A, N993FL Ser#488! Thanks to all on the list who responded to my cry for help, especially Scott R McDaniels who directed me to FAA form 8000-38 (Fabrication Assembly Operation Checklist), which gave me a back-up plan (un-needed as it turned out) and peace of mind. My initial handling was to cut the description of the RV-6 Quickbuilt from Van's web site and fax it to the inspector with a note saying that builders of the quickbuilts are being issued Repairman's certs. The inspector, on his own, found the 8000-38 and filled it in, pretending the previous builder(s) were the manufacturer and found that I had done more than 2/3rds of the checklist. Finn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
Sounds a little high to me. Call Wentworth Aircraft and ask what they want for a similar engine with similar time. Bill Shook wrote: > > > I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since > major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked (prop not spinning) > into a field and one blade was bent (prop strike). It comes with starter, > alt, mags, fuel servo and system. I am having a hard time believing a prop > struck engine is worth the $12,500 they are asking for it. Then again, I'm > relatively new at this and it is injected (as well as > counterbalanced?)....anyone care to comment or advise? > > Bill > -4 wings > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
----- Original Message ----- > > >I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since > >major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked . It sounds like a lot of money for what seems to be a troublesome engine. If I'm not mistaken, Mr Lycoming sells these engines to run relatively easy to their TBO of 2000 hrs. What ever happens, this engine will probably needs shock-loaded before anything else..... Give yourself some time, save up another $7500 and buy one straight from the box through Van's. At least you have the right IO360, which will save you having to modify it. I think it might be a bit much to stick 200HP in a -4(?) Marcel de Ruiter RV4/G-RVMJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply to homebuilts. What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance requirements, nor good sense. Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers plus more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my RV-3. It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and instructor to get the endorsement. (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down the runway.) Finn Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: experimental crash
The local news showed an airplane splattered at the midpoint of the runway at Lakeland. It appeared to be metal but you could not tell what it was. They said it was an experimental that crashed on takeoff. The pilot did not survive. Anyone in Florida know what it was and what happened? Earl, RV-4 still building ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
Saw a beautiful RV-4 parked at Wilgrove (8A6) Charlotte, NC earlier in the week. Did not get to meet the owner before it left. The data plate said it was manufactured in California in 93. The engine was an IO-360 B3A or something like that and listed the horsepower at 225. Don't know how he got that much out of it but it sure was pretty. Earl RV-4 marcel de ruiter wrote: > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > >I have an opportunity to buy an > IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since > > >major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked . > > It sounds like a lot of money for what seems to be a troublesome engine. If > I'm not mistaken, Mr Lycoming sells these engines to run relatively easy to > their TBO of 2000 hrs. What ever happens, this engine will probably needs > shock-loaded before anything else..... > > Give yourself some time, save up another $7500 and buy one straight from the > box through Van's. At least you have the right IO360, which will save you > having to modify it. > > I think it might be a bit much to stick 200HP in a -4(?) > > Marcel de Ruiter > RV4/G-RVMJ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: STD-???? hardware
Don R Jordan wrote: > > > I have been told buy 2 AI's that all the crazy numbers are Manufactor's > part numbers. > I guess because we don't need that much stuff, the catalog houses don't > carry them. I was told to go to TEX-Air & they would have everthing. Main > thing I learned is Grade 8 won't get it. > > Now here is a new one. I installed the Skytech starter this week. IT says > don't use flat washers under the star washers. ????? > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ********************************************** Grade 5 and 8 are plenty strong, the only reason that we are not supposed to use them on our aircraft is because the quality control is not as critical on hardware store bolts. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Subject: Re: Builders Groups
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Dale, Thanks a million! My fax is 219-874-7991. Phone 888-247-9937. Thanks again. Bob Waalkes -----Original Message----- From: DWENSING(at)AOL.COM <DWENSING(at)AOL.COM> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 6:27 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Builders Groups > >In a message dated 8/8/00 12:15:13 PM Central Daylight Time, >waalkes(at)netnitco.net writes: > ><< I live about an hour SE of Chicago in LaPorte, > IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I > have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator > but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help. > > Bob Waalkes >> > >Hello Bob, >If you have a fax I'll send you a list of the Chicago Area RVators. You can >look it over and contact someone close to you or give me a call. >Welcome the World of RVs! >Dale Ensing 6A finishing >Cary Illinois (NW of Chicago) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net>
Subject: Tank Leak
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect, similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an hour. Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result. Vince Welch RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: experimental crash
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Copied from rec.aviation.homebuilt... Pilot David Eachon was killed today moments after takeoff while piloting his 5/8 scale Spitfire here at Lakeland Linder (LAL). The footage shown by the local station shows the airplane has a tail number of N355DE. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "EARL FORTNER" <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:24 PM Subject: RV-List: experimental crash > > The local news showed an airplane splattered at the midpoint of the > runway at Lakeland. It appeared to be metal but you could not tell > what it was. They said it was an experimental that crashed on takeoff. > The pilot did not survive. Anyone in Florida know what it was and > what happened? > Earl, RV-4 still building > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
Subject: Re: experimental crash
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From the Lakeland Ledger home page.... Pilot Dies While Testing a Homebuilt Plane LAKELAND -- A Tampa pilot testing a homemade World War II Spitfire replica was killed Tuesday morning at Lakeland Linder Regional Airport. David Roy Eachon, 32, crashed soon after takeoff as his family videotaped the olive-and-gray plane's ascent. Witnesses said the plane climbed to between 300 and 500 feet and appeared to go into a flat spin. Eachon righted the plane, gunning the engine while trying to pull up before impact. Eachon, a commercially rated pilot, suffered severe injuries and died as a result in his aircraft. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "EARL FORTNER" <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:24 PM Subject: RV-List: experimental crash > > The local news showed an airplane splattered at the midpoint of the > runway at Lakeland. It appeared to be metal but you could not tell > what it was. They said it was an experimental that crashed on takeoff. > The pilot did not survive. Anyone in Florida know what it was and > what happened? > Earl, RV-4 still building > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au>
Subject: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Finn, I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get away with flying without a AMEL ticket. Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines on it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. : ) Regards, Bob RV8 #423 > ---------- > From: Finn Lassen > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply > to homebuilts. > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance > requirements, nor good sense. > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers plus > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my RV-3. > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and > instructor to get the endorsement. > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down the > runway.) > > Finn > > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
How about filling it with avgas, pressurize it, and look for the blue stain where the gas leaks out? Tim Lewis On 8 Aug 00, at 20:26, Vince Welch wrote: > > Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and > was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in > about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect, > similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on > the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a > couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent > all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed > up a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple > of days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble > the first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and > nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an > hour. > > Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I > could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home > from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 > inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same > result. > > Vince Welch > RV-8A > > > > > > ****** Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net>
Subject: Re: RE: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Hello Rob, Still here and still building my 3B so don't get discouraged. Glad to hear that you are enjoying your new job. Yell if I can be of any help. Best regards, Rob (RV-3B N418RL (Reserved)) rgreener(at)micron.net ANYONE STILL OUT THERE IN RV3LIST LAND? STARTING TO GET DISCOURAGED! Rob Reece RV-3 SN45 Wichita KS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: "Derrick W. Vogt" <dvogt(at)kscable.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00
I am here in Wichita Derrick Robert Greener wrote: > --> RV3-List message posted by: "Robert Greener" > > Hello Rob, > > Still here and still building my 3B so don't get discouraged. > > Glad to hear that you are enjoying your new job. > > Yell if I can be of any help. > > Best regards, > > Rob (RV-3B N418RL (Reserved)) > > rgreener(at)micron.net > > ANYONE STILL OUT THERE IN RV3LIST LAND? STARTING TO GET DISCOURAGED! > > Rob Reece > RV-3 SN45 > Wichita KS > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
I am about to close up my first fuel tank. I've got all the ribs in, but have yet to attach the rear baffle. I'd like to leak test what I've done so far, figuring that if I do have a leak around one of the rib or stiffener rivets it'll be easy to fix at this point, and a lot harder later. Is there any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with avgas like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing down real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when attaching the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could do the job better? I'm putting in capacitance senders so I can proseal on the inspection cover before attaching the rear baffle. Matthew -8A 48PP PS- If you're not to the tanks yet, don't believe people if they tell you ProSeal is a vile and hideous substance. It's actually far worse. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Not true!!!....More to come later as I have to run off for the night and work on my plane. Mike Robertson Das Fed RV-8A >From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? >Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 11:14:38 +1000 > > > Finn, > > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an >Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get >away with flying without a AMEL ticket. > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better >license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines >on >it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. : ) > > Regards, > Bob >RV8 #423 > > > > ---------- > > From: Finn Lassen > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > > > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT > > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? > > > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not > > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply > > to homebuilts. > > > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance > > requirements, nor good sense. > > > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers plus > > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my RV-3. > > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and > > instructor to get the endorsement. > > > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even > > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down the > > runway.) > > > > Finn > > > > > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Bob DiMeo - Oracle wrote: > > > Finn, > > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an > Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get > away with flying without a AMEL ticket. > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better > license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines on > it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. : ) The Aircam is NOT an ultralight and does require the multi-engine rating. Sam Buchanan (single engine, tail-dragger version of clipped wing RV-9A) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
In a message dated 8/8/00 6:00:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time, vwelch(at)knownet.net writes: << Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result. Vince Welch RV-8A >> Check the cap, a lot of them leak through the O-ring in the center bolt. Fred LaForge So Cal. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net>
Subject: Intercomms
Listers - We put a PS1000 intercomm in our brand new Cessna 175 family plane (an RV-9 is too small...), and it has a way cool automatic squelch driven by a digital signal processor. The way cool news is that they now have a portable intercomm (mono, not stereo) for $199 list (we got ours at OSH for 10% off) with the same smarts to it. That's going to replace the plain old intercomm in the RV-4, which is for sale now. Also, we went the UPS AT radios, and like them a lot. We've had no problems with the SL-30 (the lead engineer sold his -6 project, but he's still a good guy), nor the GX-60 IFR GPS. We're not using the built in intercomms. Ed Wischmeyer -- NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets. - - - - - - - - Ed Wischmeyer Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch Email: edwisch(at)aa.net name="edwisch.vcf" filename="edwisch.vcf" begin:vcard n:Wischmeyer;Ed tel;fax:425 898-9566 tel;home:425 898-9856 tel;work:425 376-2176 url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052; version:2.1 email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net fn:Ed Wischmeyer end:vcard ________________________________________________________________________________ User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop
From: Tom Brandon <majortom(at)apex.net>
Hi George: I spoke to Henry Gorgas today and he wanted me to contact everyone to make sure you're still coming to the class. Thanks Tom Brandon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
Matthew Gelber wrote: > > I am about to close up my first fuel tank. I've got all the ribs in, but > have yet to attach the rear baffle. I'd like to leak test what I've done so > far, figuring that if I do have a leak around one of the rib or stiffener > rivets it'll be easy to fix at this point, and a lot harder later. Is there > any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with avgas > like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing down > real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when attaching > the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could do > the job better? For saftey reasons I would shy away from filling the open tanks with Avgas. If you cleaned everything up, and I mean clean, used plenty of proseal and made nice filets then the tank should not leak when done. There seems to be a correlation between the amount of proseal used and the leakage rate of tanks. Builders who use 2 cans for 2 tanks have no leaks, while those who used 2/3 of a can for 2 tanks usially find leaks. The most vile and hideous substance know to man is not ProSeal, its called Epoxy resin. Gary Zilik RV-6A N99PZ > > > I'm putting in capacitance senders so I can proseal on the inspection cover > before attaching the rear baffle. > > Matthew > -8A 48PP > PS- If you're not to the tanks yet, don't believe people if they tell you > ProSeal is a vile and hideous substance. It's actually far worse. > > _ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Krhooper(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
I had similar results. Soaped everything and found the cap leaking. Finally went to Home Depot and bought a plumber's test plug ( 2 1/2 " I think) Ballon tested no leaks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type certificate." Jerry Springer Bob DiMeo - Oracle wrote: > > > Finn, > > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an > Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get > away with flying without a AMEL ticket. > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better > license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines on > it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. : ) > > Regards, > Bob > RV8 #423 > > > ---------- > > From: Finn Lassen > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > > > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT > > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? > > > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not > > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply > > to homebuilts. > > > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance > > requirements, nor good sense. > > > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers plus > > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my RV-3. > > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and > > instructor to get the endorsement. > > > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even > > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down the > > runway.) > > > > Finn > > > > > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2000
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel > endorsement), is NOT > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? > > I was just told today by someone that the twin > engine AirCam does not > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR > 63.31 doesn't apply > to homebuilts. > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not > insurance > requirements, nor good sense. > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in > various taildraggers plus > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and > down) taiing my RV-3. > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access > to an airplane and > instructor to get the endorsement. > > (I would like to be able to announce the first > flight of my RV-3, even > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with > subsequent bounces down the > runway.) > > Finn Finn: If you look at the "Operation Limitations" that are issued with an EXPERIMENTAL Amateur-built aircraft, you will that (in mine it is # 10) "The pilot-in-command of this aircraft must, as applicable, hold an appropriate category / class, have an aircraft type rating, or have a flight instructor's logbook endorsement, and have a "letter of Authorization" from the FAA." As I read it, you must have a tailwheel endorsement or have logged PIC time in a tailwheel aircraft under the grandfather clause of the part of the FAR that requires the tailwheel endorsement. Maybe Mike "Das Fed" can quote the FAR number. I believe that 61.31(i)(2) "The training and endorsement required by paragraph (i)(1) of this section is not required if the person logged pilot-in-command time in a tailwheel airplane before April 15, 1991." I do not have a tailwheel endorsement in my log becasue I have logged pilot-in-command time in my logbook in several tailwheel aircraft before April 15, 1991. Yes I did have transition training before flying the tailwheel aircraft. I think FAR 63 deals with crewmembers other than pilots and as such FAR 63 does not deal with our RV experimental aircraft. Hopefully Mike "Das Fed" can correct me. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, Flying So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au>
Subject: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
I stand corrected. Thanks, Sam for the info on the AirCam. I just did a little research on the rest of the question and the answer is "It depends". Quoting form an answer give for another enquiry relating to a gyro-plane rating: From FAQs part 61. " Ref 61.31 (k)(2)(iii); as per 91.319(e), it depends on the limitations that have been incorporated in the letter of operating limitations that gets issues with the aircraft's experimental airworthiness certificate. The pilot will have to comply with those limitations. And if the limitations says his experimental airworthiness certificate is predicated on him holding a Rotorcraft-Gryoplane rating then that is what he'll have to hold. Regardless of what 61(k)(2)(iii) appears to say (This section does not apply to experimental aircraft), the pilot still has to comply with 91.319(e) and the letter of operating limitations. And normally, in that letter of operating limitations, the FAA always establishes a category and class rating for operating an experimental aircraft." Now a rating and endorsement are certainly different. It appears that, unless it's put on your operating limitations, you don't need the tail wheel endorsement. By the way; the FAQ sections in the AFS 600 section of the FAA web site is great reading! Every question you wanted to ask and the way the FAA interprets its own rules. Bob RV8 #423 > ---------- > From: Mike Robertson > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:05 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > Not true!!!....More to come later as I have to run off for the night and > work on my plane. > > Mike Robertson > Das Fed > RV-8A > > > >From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > >Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 11:14:38 +1000 > > > > > > > > > Finn, > > > > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an > >Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get > >away with flying without a AMEL ticket. > > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better > >license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines > > >on > >it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. : ) > > > > Regards, > > Bob > >RV8 #423 > > > > > > > ---------- > > > From: Finn Lassen > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > > > > > > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT > > > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? > > > > > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not > > > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply > > > to homebuilts. > > > > > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance > > > requirements, nor good sense. > > > > > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers > plus > > > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my > RV-3. > > > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and > > > instructor to get the endorsement. > > > > > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even > > > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down > the > > > runway.) > > > > > > Finn > > > > > > > > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
In a message dated 8/8/2000 7:49:27 PM Central Daylight Time, finnlassen(at)netzero.net writes: << Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply to homebuilts. >> All depends on what the Dar says when he signs off the plane. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
Date: Aug 08, 2000
Bob, congratulations, and thanks for the added incentive. I figure six more months on mine. Looking forward to the photos and performance data on yours. Fran Malczynski RV6 (finish, drilling plexi) Olcott, NY -----Original Message----- From: Bob Japundza <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 11:47 PM Subject: RV-List: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ > >Listers, > >RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana >airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be flying >after working on it for 6+ years. > >I have been waiting on the weather to clear for the past few days, and >tonight I couldn't have asked for better conditions. Sky was clear and >no winds. > >Empty weight 1076 with O-360-A1A, Hartzell prop, full gyro panel, CD >player and a heavy paint job. > >I departed at 7:15 this evening and flew for 25 minutes as it was >starting to get dark. On climout, I saw my #3 CHT climb to 430 and the >#1 CHT was 200. Temps stabilized when I leveled out at 6000 feet, but >#1 went down to 175. Outside air temp was 78 degrees. I am going to >experiment with some stainless tape in front of #1 when I fly again. >Oil temp was 185 in cruise. Right wing was a bit heavy, but very >managable, with 1/4" of aileron deflection to maintain level flight. I >had a bit more fuel in the right tank. > >I was loitering at 115 knots running 13-15" inches and 2300 RPM. I >went to 23 squared and saw 160 knots on the GPS. The wheels chriped a >few times when I landed but I got her back down in one piece. I was >trying for a two-pointer and was a little fast. > >Stay tuned for more data and pictures. > >Bob Japundza >RV-6 .5 hours > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop
Date: Aug 08, 2000
I know I missed the first couple of threads on this subject.... But when and where is the Henry Gorgas Builder Work Shop? Thanks, Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Thanks Jerry and all others who responded. It looks like I lucked out. This is what the FA inspector put in my operating limitations: "15. The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class rating, or an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must meet the requirements of paragraph 61.31 (e), (f), (g), (h), (I), and (j) as appropriate". Well, if 61.31 (k) says it doesn't apply, then I guess the above is not "as appropriate". Finn Jerry Springer wrote: > > I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the > FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel > experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and > based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel > endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which > lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft > under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type > certificate." > > Jerry Springer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Finn Lassen wrote: Finn I certainly am NOT recommending that you do not get an endorsement. As an instructor I would recommend that you do if you can find an instructor and airplane to get it with. It sounds like you are a low time tailwheel pilot so a little dual would not hurt as there a lot of "getchas" that can happen with a tailwheel airplane. Be very carefull in crosswind takeoff and landing situations. I am sure you know this stuff already but thought I would add it as a reminder.:) Jerry > > Thanks Jerry and all others who responded. > > It looks like I lucked out. This is what the FA inspector put in my operating > limitations: > "15. The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class rating, or > an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must meet the > requirements of paragraph 61.31 (e), (f), (g), (h), (I), and (j) as appropriate". > > Well, if 61.31 (k) says it doesn't apply, then I guess the above is not "as > appropriate". > > Finn > > Jerry Springer wrote: > > > > > I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the > > FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel > > experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and > > based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel > > endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which > > lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not > > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft > > under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type > > certificate." > > > > Jerry Springer > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com>
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
Vince, Did you check the fuel cap? The O-ring on the fuel cap may not expand enought to tighly seal the tank during leak test. It was the big source of air leak during my initial leak test on my tanks. T.Nguyen >>> vwelch(at)knownet.net 08/08/00 07:26PM >>> Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect, similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an hour. Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result. Vince Welch RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
There is another correlation too. Builders who use two cans of proseal will be hauling around an unneeded can of proseal for the rest of the airframe's life!! If you follow the instructions, clean everything, and make sure you provide adequate coverage, you will build a tank that lasts forever and won't leak. No flame intended, but you really don't need to put a ton of the stuff on everything. And worst case, if you do develop a leak, you can easily cut a hole in the rear baffle immediately adjacent to the leak, repair the leak, and proseal a plate on. I had one small leak in mine that I could reach through the end plate. I think the hype on building the tanks is much worse than the reality of it. However, if you are building a sliding canopy, well......your fun is just beginning. (Just kidding, the canopy isn't that hard either. I know if I keep saying that, it will come true someday.) As others have suggested, the leak is probably in the fuel cap. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (40 hours) Indianapolis (UMP soon to be 3FK) > There seems to be a correlation between the amount of proseal used and the > leakage rate of tanks. Builders who use 2 cans for 2 tanks have no leaks, > while those who used 2/3 of a can for 2 tanks usially find leaks. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Finn Lassen wrote: From: RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Burlington
Burlington.... 22, 23, and 24th of sept. 273sb CO. ________________________________________________________________________________ Thread-Index: AcABj7xARMmilDN4QPml4bIysFRd7QAdzMyA
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: waalkes(at)netnitco.net
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Builders Groups Bob, There are several RV's in the area...I remember there were two RV-4's at Porter County, there is one flying and several under construction at Mishawaka Pilot's Club. There's also a RV-4 at Warsaw. All together, there are roughly 30 RV's flying in Indiana. Which airplane are you building? Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ 1.5 hours Kokomo, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
Date: Aug 09, 2000
> > >Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and >was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in >about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect, >similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on >the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a >couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent >all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up >a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of >days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the >first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and >nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an >hour. > >Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I >could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home >from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches >of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result. > >Vince Welch >RV-8A > >Vince, How did you seal your fuel tank caps? They are NOT air tight. I placed a piece of plastic over the filler hole, then installed the caps, then duct taped over them. This worked pretty well. I still had a couple of seeping rivets that I did not find during the leak test but they were easily fixed later. Drain the tank, drill out the rivet, install a sealed end pop rivet with some proseal and it's fixed. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Tank Leak Test - long
I thought I would share my fuel tank test episode with the group. Its long so delete now if you're not interested. I waited about 2 weeks to do the leak test on my tanks. I wanted to make sure they were completely cured before messing around with them. I ended up sealing the fuel sender and fuel pick up gaskets with a product called "fuel lube". I also sealed the threads on all screws with it as well. For the leak test, I used Will Cretsinger's notes and constructed a "manometer" out of a water level hose. I first sealed vent line fitting by making a fitting using some left over 1/4" tubing and one of the flare nuts from the fuselage kit. I crimped the end of the 1/4" tubing and squished it in a vise to seal it. I then made up a fitting for the manometer to hook to. I did this by using a short piece of the 3/8" tubing and again a flare nut from the fuse kit and screwed the piece onto the fuel pick up fitting. I then hooked the manometer to the end of the 3/8" tube (you can see a picture of the manometer I made on my website at "Tanks page 3"). The Manometer is simply a clear hose hooked to the fuel pick up and then looped downward with a "U" shape at the bottom and the other end tied off higher than the tank. Water is poured into the tube to fill the bottom of the "U" but not enough for it to go into the tank. I made a mark on the tube where the water line is with no pressure on the tank. I then gently added pressure (via blowing into the fuel drain valve) to the tank until the water level rose 15" in the clear tube. The new water level was then marked on the tube. No movement of the water means no leak. Well, the water started slowly moving don the tube toward my original "no pressure" mark. I got out the spray bottle and my grandson's "Mr. Bubble" and sprayed the fuel cap. Bubble started immediately pouring out of the center section of the fuel cap and some around the edges of it. Off came the fuel cap, tightened the center bolt down some, smeared fuel lube all around the rubber "O" ring gasket and covered the center bolt thoroughly. Fuel cap back on, re-pressurize and spray the fuel cap again with "Mr. Bubbles". No leak. No movement of water line. I came back in an hour and the water line had moved down about 1" - drats a leak!!! Mr Bubble was sprayed on every rivet line and every seam of the root rib. No leaks found. Well I couldn't reach the baffle rivets and end rib seams with the tank mounted, so off with the tank and over the workbench. Re-hook up manometer, pressurize, Mr. Bubble sprayed on every rivet and seal of the baffle and end rib of the tank. No leaks??!! What the heck is going on? Well I just left it sit and went in the house to read the archives and try to solve this riddle. Came back out in about two hours and the water level had not moved at all. Remounted the tank, hooked it all back up and pressurized the tank again. This time the water level didn't move for about 1 hour, then it started moving upward (above the water line mark)???? How could it be increasing in pressure just sitting there? While I was standing there scratching my head, the air conditioning in my garage kicked on and it finally dawned on me what was happening. The A/C in my garage is set up with only one large output and that big vent is directly in front of my wing jig. The cold air blows right on the tank was testing. I turned the A/C off, and waited for about 10 minutes and the water level started to rise in the tube. A/C on and down the water level went. As the tank got cold, the pressure in it went down. As it warmed back up, the pressure increased. Well now that I had my answer, I turned off the A/C and waited for several hours while the temp in the garage and tank stabilized. 24 hours later, the water level has not moved at all off the water mark. YAAAHOOOOO -- no leaks!!! Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing skinning) Eric's RV-6A Construction Page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com>
Subject: Tennessee RV Builders E-Group
Date: Aug 09, 2000
http://www.egroups.com/group/TennesseeRVBuilders Above is the link to the new Tennessee RV Builders E-Group. There is also a link on the main page at Vans Airforce's World Wide Wing page. Please join this group if you are an RV builder in Tennessee. Thanks! Brian Chesteen RV-6 (Emp Ordered) Newport, Tennessee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
> I think it might be a bit much to stick 200HP in a -4(?) > A bit much? Is there any such thing? :-) Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
I used Hobby Store bulk super glue (sold under various trade names....2.5 oz. applicator bottles). There are three thicknesses of this stuff. I used the real thin mix ( this stuff is thinner than water-if thats possible). Anyway, a drop or two of this stuff wicks under the rivet head and a shot of activator (spray pump bottle- same brand as the super glue) instantly ( and I mean instantly) sets the "wicked-in" super glue. Took ten minutes to do entire tank and I never had a leak. Now, I know my riveting of the pro-seal-ed tanks should have produced some leaks. I think this method of sealing saved the day for me. BTW the Mooney folks sell a kit simular to this for lots of $$$. That is where I got the idea. vwelch(at)knownet.net on 08/08/2000 08:26:24 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Tank Leak Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect, similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an hour. Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result. Vince Welch RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Subject: Re: Builders Groups
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Tom, Please include me in your mailing list. Bob Waalkes 502 Corvette Dr. LaPorte, IN 46350 219-874-7990 Thanks. -----Original Message----- From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)corecomm.net> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:06 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Builders Groups > >Bob, > > I maintain the mailing list for the Chicago Area group. We lost our >editor to cancer last year and since my engine arrived, I have not been real >eager to publish newsletters. However, I do publish an abbreviated program >prior to the two or three annual events that we plan each year. > > If you or other readers will send me your mailing address, type of project, >and phone number, I will include you in the next mailing coming up soon. >This mailing is prompted by our annual fall picnic which is usually the last >Sunday in September at Casa de Aero in Hampshire, IL. The date has not been >firmed up as yet. We usually have people from all the neighboring states >represented. > >Tom Barnes (junior editor) >904 Saxon Place >Buffalo Grove, IL 60089 >847-541-6072 > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Bob Waalkes <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> >To: >Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:06 PM >Subject: RV-List: Builders Groups > > >> >> I am beginning construction on an RV-8 QB and wondering if there is a >> builder's group in my area. I live about an hour SE of Chicago in >LaPorte, >> IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I >> have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator >> but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help. >> >> Bob Waalkes >> RV-8 QB Emp. >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cecilth(at)juno.com
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
Try a baloon that has no pinhole in it. cecil writes: > > Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right > tank and > was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon > deflates in > about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak > detect, > similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a > couple on > the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, > waited a > couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I > spent > all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I > mixed up > a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a > couple of > days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find > bubble the > first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting > and > nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about > half an > hour. > > Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if > I > could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer > home > from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 > inches > of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same > result. > > Vince Welch > RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Nut safety
A good question for the archives... I was putting the carb on my Lycoming O-360 the other night with the hardware supplied by Lycoming and I noticed that they did not include anything in the kit to safety the nuts that hold the carb on. What am I suppose to use here? It would ruin my whole day to suck one of those up into my carb on take off. The same thing is true of the mixture and throttle cables that terminate down by the carb. Big nuts, no safety. Help! - Jim Andrews RV-8Aq ( Engine stuff ) N89JA (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Imfairings(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Finn, I'm to lazy to look it up but you might sneak by because you aren't carrying passengers. If there is an out that might be it. Something to consider, in 30 years of observation, about 90% of the busted homebuilt aircraft I have seen were done during 'high speed' taxiing. If you think about it, it accomplishes nothing and puts the airplane and you in the most awkward situation you can be in. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
> There is another correlation too. Builders who use two cans of proseal will > be hauling around an unneeded can of proseal for the rest of the airframe's > life!! Maybe they are but their tanks don't leak > > > If you follow the instructions, clean everything, and make sure you provide > adequate coverage, you will build a tank that lasts forever and won't leak. > No flame intended, but you really don't need to put a ton of the stuff on > everything. And worst case, if you do develop a leak, you can easily cut a > hole in the rear baffle immediately adjacent to the leak, repair the leak, > and proseal a plate on. This is not as easy as you make it sound. I would rather have used lots of proseal and not have to cut open the tank to fix a leak. > I had one small leak in mine that I could reach > through the end plate. Since you had a small leak could you tell us how much proseal you used? I will admit that I used 2/3 can for both tanks and had small leaks in both tanks. I was able to fix both leaks without cutting into the tanks. > I think the hype on building the tanks is much worse > than the reality of it. However, if you are building a sliding canopy, > well......your fun is just beginning. (Just kidding, the canopy isn't that > hard either. I know if I keep saying that, it will come true someday.) I agree, I had fits with the canopy. The second one is easier. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
Krhooper(at)aol.com wrote: > > I had similar results. Soaped everything and found the cap leaking. Finally > went to Home Depot and bought a plumber's test plug ( 2 1/2 " I think) Ballon > tested no leaks. This has probably been said before but I stretched a surgical glove over the cap and then installed the cap. No leaks. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
Gary, Gary, Gary. Garry "6" finishing Gary Zilik wrote: > > The most vile and hideous substance know to man is not ProSeal, its called > Epoxy resin. > > Gary Zilik > RV-6A N99PZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
Bill Shook wrote: > > > > I think it might be a bit much to stick 200HP in a -4(?) > > > > A bit much? Is there any such thing? :-) Most definitely YES. Sam Buchanan "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
> When Avgas hits 5$ a gallon it will be. > > Craig > AHHHHHHAHAHHHHH!!!!!!! Now I'm going to have nightmares for a week. Thanks ALOT Craig. Geeze, you could have been less traumatic on me by telling me Bush will win the Presidency. AHHH, now I'm going to have two nightmares for a weeek. :-) Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Carbon fiber...
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Finn said: > I'll let you in on a little secret: Van has worked real hard to deliver > low cost high performance kits. In order to compensate for this low > cost, builders buy the most expensive tools, add-ons and materials they > can get their hands on (avionics, upholstery, paint, fiber, epoxy, > etc.) :) > > Finn And your point is....? ;-) Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
With respect to the amount of Proseal to use, I did both tanks with a single 1 qt can (half full from Van's) and still have enough left over for incidentals like the firewall, etc. It is simply not necessary to use gobs of the stuff, and I believe that a lot of the bad press Proseal gets is due to having to handle too much of it. My tanks were tested with air at 48" of water using a homemade manometer without leakage except for the caps, as others have pointed out. I put a temporary fiber washer behind the "o"-ring to fix that. Other than a weird bruising of both thumbnails from (I guess) 10 hours of wearing latex gloves, the job was no sweat. One point to pass on to others contemplating the tanks is to be sure to wipe the Proseal off each rivet tail and your bucking bar before setting the rivet. The stuff is slick as snot and you can easily get tipped rivets if things are not clean. Also, I don't think that the tank dies are any advantage, at least in warm climates. The Proseal that Van's sells is not very viscous and will easily flow out from under the rivet head. You do not need or want a space between the rivet and the skin for the Proseal. It only takes a molecular film thickness to provide a seal between the rivet and the skin. I did my first tank using the tank dies and the secons without. The second went much easier with fewer tipped rivets. Its possible that in colder climates or if using older formulations of Proseal the tank dies might be better. Your mileage may vary. Andy Johnson, fuselage floor fabrication. ________________________________________________________________________________ Thread-Index: AcACHEU6kkRurkA3SI+1RQkygk+ZkAAABLzA
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: Nut safety
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Nut safety Jim, The carb on the 0-360 uses interal lockwashers to help hold the nuts in place. Always use a regular washer underneath the lockwasher. Call me paranoid, but right before the first flight I replaced every lockwasher in the engine compartment. I did it to force myself into checking the torque of all the nuts. I found a few loose ones. On the carb I was a little paranoid, so I used a small amount of blue locktite on the studs the carb attaches to, in addition to the lockwashers with the regular nuts. As far as the cable attachments go, use drilled shank/castle nuts on the mixture and throttle arms when you attach the cables. If you're talking about the nuts on the cables themselves, the prober rod-end will prevent the nut from coming off and going anywhere. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ 1.5 hours >I was putting the carb on my Lycoming O-360 the other night with the hardware >supplied by Lycoming and I noticed that they did not include anything in the kit >to safety the nuts that hold the carb on. What am I suppose to use here? It >would ruin my whole day to suck one of those up into my carb on take off. > >The same thing is true of the mixture and throttle cables that terminate down by >the carb. Big nuts, no safety. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com>
Subject: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth?
Speaking of.... How about a discussion on auto gas engines for RV's... A good 180hp to 200hp should do... -Bill VonDane RV-8A - N8VD - Wings http://vondane.com/rv8a/ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Craig Hiers Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:53 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine worth? When Avgas hits 5$ a gallon it will be. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Gang, Jerry beat me to it. As he has very clearly stated, NO additional ratings/endorsements are required to operate experimental aircraft other than the basic pilot certificate. The easy way to think about this is that if the pilot's certificate is listed in paragraph (a) of 61.5 then you need to worry about it. But if it is listed as a rating in paragraph (b) of 61.5 then you do not need it to operate an experimental aircraft. Thanks Jerry for answering this quickly. Mike Robertson Das Fed RV-8A >From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? >Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 20:50:24 -0700 > > >I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the >FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel >experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and >based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel >endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which >lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not >apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft >under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type >certificate." > >Jerry Springer > > >Bob DiMeo - Oracle wrote: > > > > > > > Finn, > > > > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an > > Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get > > away with flying without a AMEL ticket. > > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better > > license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two >engines on > > it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. : ) > > > > Regards, > > Bob > > RV8 #423 > > > > > ---------- > > > From: Finn Lassen > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > > > > > > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT > > > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? > > > > > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not > > > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply > > > to homebuilts. > > > > > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance > > > requirements, nor good sense. > > > > > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers >plus > > > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my >RV-3. > > > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and > > > instructor to get the endorsement. > > > > > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even > > > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down >the > > > runway.) > > > > > > Finn > > > > > > > > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
>Something to consider, in 30 years of observation, about 90% of the busted >homebuilt aircraft I have seen were done during 'high speed' taxiing. If >you >think about it, it accomplishes nothing and puts the airplane and you in >the >most awkward situation you can be in. >Bob I agree 100%. Airplanes are flying machines...not high speed ground vehicles. Taxi only enough to verify brake function and directional control. A tailwheel airplane takes on a personality all it's own right when the tail comes up but it's not quite ready to fly. The idea is to get through that zone as quickly as possible and FLY IT. My .02 worth. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 125 tailwheel hours and still have a lot to learn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com
Subject: Flying RV's in Phoenix area??
Date: Aug 09, 2000
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 08/09/2000 12:17:39 PM I will be in Phoenix, Arizona on business next week from the 16th through the 23rd. Wondering if there's anybody in the area with an RV who I could go flying with while there (or is it so hot that airplanes can't fly in Phoenix this time of year?!). I haven't been to this part of AZ before so I think it would be fun to see some of it from the air. Will cheerfully help pay for gas, buy lunch, whatever. It would sure beat sitting around in a hotel (especially over the weekend of the 19th/20th). Please reply off-list. Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A wings......left one is coming out of the jig today.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Nut safety
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Jim, If my memory serves me correctly, which could be very questionable here, there are supposed to be lock washers under those particular nuts. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Nut safety >Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 10:19:20 -0500 > > >A good question for the archives... > >I was putting the carb on my Lycoming O-360 the other night with the >hardware >supplied by Lycoming and I noticed that they did not include anything in >the kit >to safety the nuts that hold the carb on. What am I suppose to use here? >It >would ruin my whole day to suck one of those up into my carb on take off. > >The same thing is true of the mixture and throttle cables that terminate >down by >the carb. Big nuts, no safety. > >Help! > >- Jim Andrews >RV-8Aq ( Engine stuff ) >N89JA (reserved) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Do I understand you correctly??? You have spent years building your dream plane. Why are you dragging your heels over getting current, safe with a tail wheel instructor? Even if it takes 10 hours, isn't your life and the plane you spent so much time worth doing right? Find someone that has a Citabria and take some dual. A friend of mine did that and then flew out to Oregon to take some RV-6 dual. What are you trying to save after putting 10s of thousands of Dollars into your plane??? You may not agree with the REGs but you haven't shown me that you have set up a responsible alternative!!! Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:00 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > Thanks Jerry and all others who responded. > > It looks like I lucked out. This is what the FA inspector put in my operating > limitations: > "15. The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class rating, or > an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must meet the > requirements of paragraph 61.31 (e), (f), (g), (h), (I), and (j) as appropriate". > > Well, if 61.31 (k) says it doesn't apply, then I guess the above is not "as > appropriate". > > Finn > > Jerry Springer wrote: > > > > > I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the > > FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel > > experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and > > based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel > > endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which > > lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not > > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft > > under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type > > certificate." > > > > Jerry Springer > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine worth?
--- Bill Shook wrote: > > > > When Avgas hits 5$ a gallon it will be. > > > > Craig > > > > > AHHHHHHAHAHHHHH!!!!!!! Now I'm going to have nightmares for a week. > Thanks ALOT Craig. Geeze, you could have been less traumatic on me > by > telling me Bush will win the Presidency. AHHH, now I'm going to have > two > nightmares for a weeek. :-) Ummm... he will. :) Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Cheeezz...I hate it when I hit send too quickly. There is a caveat here to this....The operating limitations!!! Undere the newer Order 8130.2D there must be included a paragraph that states:"The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class rating, or an authoriized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must meet the requirementsof para. 61.31(e), (f), (g), (h), (i), and (j) as appropriate." This paragraph was not necessarily required on the earlier issued operating limitations except in the case where the issuing person was sharp. The only way to tell is to look at your particular operating limitations and see if this paragraph is included. If it is not have fun and a good day. Mike Robertson Das Fed >From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? >Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 07:10:19 HST > > >Gang, > >Jerry beat me to it. As he has very clearly stated, NO additional >ratings/endorsements are required to operate experimental aircraft other >than the basic pilot certificate. The easy way to think about this is that >if the pilot's certificate is listed in paragraph (a) of 61.5 then you need >to worry about it. But if it is listed as a rating in paragraph (b) of 61.5 >then you do not need it to operate an experimental aircraft. > >Thanks Jerry for answering this quickly. > >Mike Robertson >Das Fed >RV-8A > > > >From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > >Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 20:50:24 -0700 > > > > > >I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the > >FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel > >experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and > >based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel > >endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which > >lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not > >apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft > >under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type > >certificate." > > > >Jerry Springer > > > > > >Bob DiMeo - Oracle wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Finn, > > > > > > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an > > > Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could >get > > > away with flying without a AMEL ticket. > > > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better > > > license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two > >engines on > > > it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. : ) > > > > > > Regards, > > > Bob > > > RV8 #423 > > > > > > > ---------- > > > > From: Finn Lassen > > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM > > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > > > > > > > > > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT > > > > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot? > > > > > > > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does >not > > > > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't >apply > > > > to homebuilts. > > > > > > > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance > > > > requirements, nor good sense. > > > > > > > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers > >plus > > > > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my > >RV-3. > > > > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane >and > > > > instructor to get the endorsement. > > > > > > > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, >even > > > > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down > >the > > > > runway.) > > > > > > > > Finn > > > > > > > > > > > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
I have about 800 hrs tailwheel time. When my plane is done, I won't have flown a taildragger for about 2 years. I intend to get some dual in a Citabria and practice, practice, practice my takeoffs and landings. I also intend to take the RV transition "ride" with Mike Seager. My opinion is that if you haven't had any tailwheel time, please don't try to teach yourself how to takeoff and land a T/W aircraft in your new baby. Get a good tailwheel instructor and let him show you the ropes. They don't fly any different but boy do they taxi, takeoff, and land different! -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)qcbc.org] Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 10:45 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? Do I understand you correctly??? You have spent years building your dream plane. Why are you dragging your heels over getting current, safe with a tail wheel instructor? Even if it takes 10 hours, isn't your life and the plane you spent so much time worth doing right? Find someone that has a Citabria and take some dual. A friend of mine did that and then flew out to Oregon to take some RV-6 dual. What are you trying to save after putting 10s of thousands of Dollars into your plane??? You may not agree with the REGs but you haven't shown me that you have set up a responsible alternative!!! Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> To: Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:00 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > Thanks Jerry and all others who responded. > > It looks like I lucked out. This is what the FA inspector put in my operating > limitations: > "15. The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class rating, or > an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must meet the > requirements of paragraph 61.31 (e), (f), (g), (h), (I), and (j) as appropriate". > > Well, if 61.31 (k) says it doesn't apply, then I guess the above is not "as > appropriate". > > Finn > > Jerry Springer wrote: > > > > > I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the > > FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel > > experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and > > based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel > > endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which > > lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not > > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft > > under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type > > certificate." > > > > Jerry Springer > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
In a message dated 8/9/00 8:34:16 AM Central Daylight Time, rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes: << There is another correlation too. Builders who use two cans of proseal will be hauling around an unneeded can of proseal for the rest of the airframe's life!! >> Randy, I agree with you. I only used 2/3 of a can for both tanks and the only leak I had was the one I took after drinking a can of Sprite while reading Gary's message. Eric Newton Long Beach, MS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
In a message dated 8/9/2000 2:10:58 PM Central Daylight Time, svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes: << I have about 800 hrs tailwheel time. When my plane is done, I won't have flown a taildragger for about 2 years. I intend to get some dual in a Citabria and practice, practice, practice my takeoffs and landings. I also intend to take the RV transition "ride" with Mike Seager. My opinion is that if you haven't had any tailwheel time, please don't try to teach yourself how to takeoff and land a T/W aircraft in your new baby. Get a good tailwheel instructor and let him show you the ropes. They don't fly any different but boy do they taxi, takeoff, and land different! -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE >> This is not what he asked. He asked if he legally has to have a tail wheel endorsement to fly his aricraft. Thats all. He specifially asked that insurance and questions about how smart it is to fly with out not be brought up. Maybe more people would stay on this list if people actually read the questions people asked and responded to those questions, instead of judging the people asking the questions. Once again the question is: Is it legal to fly a RV 3 without a taildragger endorsement. I think that has been answered and comments flying without training should stop since Finn never said he would fly without tail dragger time, he justed asked if the endorsement was necessary. Chris Wilcox F1 rocket builder PS for the record I will get my tailwheel endorsement before flyiing my F1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
>any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with avgas >like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing down >real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when attaching >the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could do >the job better? I just took it out to the back patio and filled it up with the garden hose. Dried it off and re-cleaned before installing the back baffle. No leaks. Will do this on the second tank this weekend. Used only about 1/2 can of sealant for both tanks, still hate the stuff. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) President and Founder Friends of P-Chan RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks. 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel endorsement, I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you when you least expect it. Scott has the right approach. My concern was and still is Finn's lack of tail wheel experience. A few sporadic tail wheel flights that Finn lists does not replace the intensive learning necessary to control a taildragger. It may be legal to fly your homebuilt without the Tailwheel endorsement but why take the chance. Many dollars, lots of time building can be wiped out by just a little tail wheel problem. Loosing it on landing at a flyin could also cost an innocent bystander's plane. Even people with experience can lose it. We had a Cessna 195 lose it on take off at Oshkosh. We had a Starduster that we had to re-weld a landing gear that dropped it in landing. Both high time experienced pilots. And yet, Finn is quibbling about the legality of getting a TW endorsement. I know people don't like to be told what to do, but let's be practical. The first 10 hours in my old Bellanca were required by the insurance company even though I had almost 200 hours in taildraggers. The first 5 hours were very humiliating. I was glad the CFI was along. Most home built accidents happen in the first or second flight. Shouldn't you try to get the odds in your favor? What will you tell the accident inspector when you do lose it if you don't have the endorsement??? What will you tell your insurance company??? Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: <CW9371(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 2:22 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > In a message dated 8/9/2000 2:10:58 PM Central Daylight Time, > svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes: > > << I have about 800 hrs tailwheel time. When my plane is done, I won't have > flown a taildragger for about 2 years. I intend to get some dual in a > Citabria and practice, practice, practice my takeoffs and landings. I also > intend to take the RV transition "ride" with Mike Seager. My opinion is > that if you haven't had any tailwheel time, please don't try to teach > yourself how to takeoff and land a T/W aircraft in your new baby. Get a > good tailwheel instructor and let him show you the ropes. They don't fly any > different but boy do they taxi, takeoff, and land different! > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE >> > > > This is not what he asked. He asked if he legally has to have a tail wheel > endorsement to fly his aricraft. Thats all. He specifially asked that > insurance and questions about how smart it is to fly with out not be brought > up. Maybe more people would stay on this list if people actually read the > questions people asked and responded to those questions, instead of judging > the people asking the questions. > > Once again the question is: Is it legal to fly a RV 3 without a taildragger > endorsement. > > I think that has been answered and comments flying without training should > stop since Finn never said he would fly without tail dragger time, he justed > asked if the endorsement was necessary. > > Chris Wilcox > F1 rocket builder > > PS for the record I will get my tailwheel endorsement before flyiing my F1 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Alternator
I am in the market for an alternator for a 160HP Lycoming to go in my RV-6A. I have located a "remanufactured" Nippon/Dienso alternator for a '90 Nissan Sentra for $90.00. It is rated at 70 Amps and does have a built in voltage regulator. Is this what I want??? If not, what should I look for (looking for 60 amp alt to run full IFR panel, plus strobes, landing lights, etc.) Charlie Brame RV6A-QB On the gear. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Hi Jim, why did you change power plants to the LOM? I know I know you just wanted to say mines got a super charger and it pulls more chicks on the apron!! :o) argh seriously though I'm just curious and have others done this as well? Bruce >--> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com > >Hi All, > >When I had the O-290 in my RV-3, I normally flew at at 165 mph true ias >between 9,500' and 11,500' for cross country flights. I frequently flew with >another RV-3, N51RV, which was powered by an IO-320. We consistantly burned >6.0 gph. > >The LOM M332A engine (245 cu.in.) at 160 mph true ias burns 5.0 gph, and at >175-180 mph true ias at 9,500' burns 6.2 gph. > >I am in the process of completely rewiring my RV-3. I am installing a >Microair 760 COM and a fuelscan (Matronics) fuel flow meter. I thought I >might find a sweet spot in fuel consumption by varying the mp and rpm at a >given air speed. > >Jim Ayers >RV-3 N47RV (Why does an annual take more than a year?) :-( > > ________________________________________________________________________________ User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop
From: Tom Brandon <majortom(at)apex.net>
Henry gives small builders classes at his shop near Portland. Right now we have 4 for the next class & I think thats the maximum number he wants in a class. If anyone drops out, I'll let you know if you'd like. Tom Brandon > From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 22:51:45 -0500 > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop > > > I know I missed the first couple of threads on this subject.... But when and > where is the Henry Gorgas Builder Work Shop? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Alternator
From: Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
I got a 14118 (50 amp with external regulator[VR749]for $35.00 (no core). Don't have it on yet. waiting for a hanger mount from Van's. GlassAir driver indicated I should get a 87 Honda Civic. Haven't been to the store to look , but they all look big. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************** writes: > > > I am in the market for an alternator for a 160HP Lycoming to go in > my RV-6A. I have located a "remanufactured" Nippon/Dienso alternator > for a '90 Nissan Sentra for $90.00. It is rated at 70 Amps and does have a > built in voltage regulator. > > Is this what I want??? If not, what should I look for (looking for > 60 amp alt to run full IFR panel, plus strobes, landing lights, etc.) > > Charlie Brame > RV6A-QB > On the gear. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator
> >I am in the market for an alternator for a 160HP Lycoming to go in my >RV-6A. I have located a "remanufactured" Nippon/Dienso alternator for a >'90 Nissan Sentra for $90.00. It is rated at 70 Amps and does have a >built in voltage regulator. > >Is this what I want??? If not, what should I look for (looking for 60 >amp alt to run full IFR panel, plus strobes, landing lights, etc.) > >Charlie Brame >RV6A-QB >On the gear. What you've found would be okay . . . but a 40A machine is plenty big. Can you find a smaller (and lighter) machine for less $$$$ Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: marksnow(at)cavemen.net (Mark Snow)
Subject: Auto pilot for sale
Lister's, I have for sale a century III Auto pilot pulled from an undamaged home built. Working when pulled. It consist of the following items. Mitchell attitude gyro model 52D67 Mitchell directional gyro model 52d54 Control switch box model 1c404 Computer with mounting tray model1c515-3 Altitude hold chamber model 1c407 Roll servo model 1c363-1-373r Pitch servo model 1c373-6-471 Wiring harness (probably home made) Asking $2000, would prefer to sell as a complete system. Please reply off list. Thanks ..........Mark Snow ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
In a message dated 8/9/2000 4:07:48 PM Central Daylight Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes: << Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel endorsement, I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you when you least expect it. Scott has the right approach. My concern was and still is Finn's lack of tail wheel experience. A few sporadic tail wheel flights that Finn lists does not replace the intensive learning necessary to control a taildragger. It may be legal to fly your homebuilt without the Tailwheel endorsement but why take the chance. Many dollars, lots of time building can be wiped out by just a little tail wheel problem. Loosing it on landing at a flyin could also cost an innocent bystander's plane. Even people with experience can lose it. We had a Cessna 195 lose it on take off at Oshkosh. We had a Starduster that we had to re-weld a landing gear that dropped it in landing. Both high time experienced pilots. And yet, Finn is quibbling about the legality of getting a TW endorsement. I know people don't like to be told what to do, but let's be practical. The first 10 hours in my old Bellanca were required by the insurance company even though I had almost 200 hours in taildraggers. The first 5 hours were very humiliating. I was glad the CFI was along. Most home built accidents happen in the first or second flight. Shouldn't you try to get the odds in your favor? What will you tell the accident inspector when you do lose it if you don't have the endorsement??? What will you tell your insurance company??? Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >> Once again this was not what finn asked about. the horse dead, leave it alone. He justed asked if it was legal. It maybe depending on what the DAR who signs off the aircraft says. He didnt ask if it was smart, he didnt ask if you would do it. He didnt even ask if the insurance company would cover him. In fact he specifically stated he didn't want to know about those things. He just wanted to know if it was legal. You could have 800 of tail wheel time and no endorsement. That is possible, not likely but its possible. All he asked about was the endoresement. In regards to the Starduster if that was at Airventure I know the owner and pilot. CHris WIlcox F1 rocket kit 000 PS I dont think a RV3 is a high perfomance tail dragger or is it? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator
No it isn't Bob. Get back to work. Wa Ching Yu. System Administrator Bob Japundza wrote: > > Charlie, > > The 35 amp alternator Van's sells is plenty, unless your installing a > sound system with a few amplifiers and 15" woofers. Then you have other > problems. > > Is it time to go home yet? > Bob Japundza > RV-6 1.5 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
In a message dated 08/09/2000 2:19:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bruce@triton-dive.com writes: > --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com> > > Hi Jim, > > why did you change power plants to the LOM? It was just an interesting challenge to install a smaller engine to make my RV-3 fly faster and farther. It works. I have heard that a few others that are doing this, also. I replaced a Lyc O-290 (289 cu. in.) with the LOM M332A (245 cu. in.) The supercharger was just a guarantee that it would be faster. :-) Lyc O-290 (est 130 hp) LOM M332A (115 hp without supercharger & 140 hp with supercharger) Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: George True <true(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop
Tom, Hi! Yes, I am definitely coming to the workshop. Clay Killion and I are both arriving in Portland Wed. evening. We will be renting a car and driving from there. I will call Clay this evening to talk about motel reservations. I think Henry said the Safari Inn was the place to stay. When are you guys getting into Portland? Cheers! George True Tom Brandon wrote: > > Hi George: > I spoke to Henry Gorgas today and he wanted me to contact everyone to make > sure you're still coming to the class. > > Thanks > Tom Brandon > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
I know what his question was. However, to merely give a yes or no answer to the legality of tailwheel endorsments (which I am not able to comment upon) without addressing the wisdom of undertaking the first flight without some sort of tailwheel training (which I can comment upon) would be doing Finn and anyone else contemplating such an endeavor a great disservice. I will render my opinion any time I see fit to render it. If you do not like my opinion I suggest you do not take it to heart. Flame away. I can hit the delete button as easily as you. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM [mailto:CW9371(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 12:22 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? In a message dated 8/9/2000 2:10:58 PM Central Daylight Time, svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes: << I have about 800 hrs tailwheel time. When my plane is done, I won't have flown a taildragger for about 2 years. I intend to get some dual in a Citabria and practice, practice, practice my takeoffs and landings. I also intend to take the RV transition "ride" with Mike Seager. My opinion is that if you haven't had any tailwheel time, please don't try to teach yourself how to takeoff and land a T/W aircraft in your new baby. Get a good tailwheel instructor and let him show you the ropes. They don't fly any different but boy do they taxi, takeoff, and land different! -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE >> This is not what he asked. He asked if he legally has to have a tail wheel endorsement to fly his aricraft. Thats all. He specifially asked that insurance and questions about how smart it is to fly with out not be brought up. Maybe more people would stay on this list if people actually read the questions people asked and responded to those questions, instead of judging the people asking the questions. Once again the question is: Is it legal to fly a RV 3 without a taildragger endorsement. I think that has been answered and comments flying without training should stop since Finn never said he would fly without tail dragger time, he justed asked if the endorsement was necessary. Chris Wilcox F1 rocket builder PS for the record I will get my tailwheel endorsement before flyiing my F1 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Electric Horizons
Date: Aug 09, 2000
I called The Gyro House today to check on my RC Allen electric AH, and there is a huge backorder of these things. Seems that the manufacturer has a shortage of technical personel and cannot meet demand. It's been a while since this came up, so has anyone put in one of the imports from Spruce? Any other ideas for an electric horizon? Jerry Carter Memphis, TN My RV-8A website: http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Finn Lassen wrote: > > > Well Bob, I agree that taxiing with the tail up and at flying speeds is the most > critical phase of flight (landings). For that same reason, doing it and getting > decent at it, should prepare me well for that phase when it really counts: the > actual landing. There is one major flaw to this line of thinking; when an RV gets airborne during a fast taxi it is not in landing configuration. What you find yourself in is a predicament that you will not ever see in normal flight. In a normal landing, flaps are deployed, airspeed is carefully controlled, proper pitch attitude is maintained, P-factor is controlled, and there is ample momentum to carry into the landing flair to prevent "dropping" the plane. None of the above attributes of a normal approach are present during the unexpected "flight" you can/will make during high speed taxi tests. You find yourself above the runway, the airspeed is all out of whack, the pitch attitude is wrong for landing, the plane is trying to head for the weeds, the flaps are up, and most likely, you weren't REALLY ready to fly! In my opinion (500 hrs tailgear, 165 hrs RV-6) high speed taxi testing in an RV is bad news until you have the proper instruction and pink airworthiness certificate in hand. Matter of fact, I probably wouldn't do ANY high speed taxi until it was time to fly. You will be much better off just punching the throttle and getting your plane clear of the ground as soon as possible. Believe me......I speak from experience....... If an RV3/4/6/8 is going fast enough to get the tail off the ground, it is going fast enough to commit aviation. > On the other hand, doing kangaroo hops down the runway after a gust of wind made > the plane fly is not the most elegant sight and sure wakes one up. It is a very good way to wad up your plane. > I guess the bottom line is that I'm ready to fly to the point where I can get > the plane and me down in one piece, and then practice, practice, practice until > I can do it effortlessly and with precision. Finn, be sure you call me when you get the "effortlessly and with precision" part solved......I am still trying figure it out..... :-) Sam Buchanan (RV-6 driver who still manages to have the occasional, well..."interesting" landing) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote: > All he asked about was the endoresement. > In regards to the Starduster if that was at Airventure I know the owner and > pilot. > > CHris WIlcox > F1 rocket kit 000 > > PS I dont think a RV3 is a high perfomance tail dragger or is it? > CHris the RV-3 is probably more of an high performance airplane than the -4 or -6. Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
I don't know, Brian, I would respectfully submit that I don't think you have proven anything with the water. Fuel, after all, is of a different, less viscous, molecular structure. I can't prove this, but it seems logical that you might have a leak that water would not leak out of, but avgas would. No? Just my opinion, but I think the best way to leak check your tanks is to put about 5 gallons of 100LL in them while they are still on the bench. Change their positions every couple of days until every possible angle has been checked. I left mine this way for a couple of weeks. If they leak, you're gonna know about it when you see the telltale blue stain. After I was done I just put the gas in my--nah, not going to start another thread! Pat Hatch RV-4, N17PH @ VRB RV-6, Fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:24 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Leak testing tanks before closing ? > > > >any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with > avgas > >like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing > down > >real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when > attaching > >the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could > do > >the job better? > > I just took it out to the back patio and filled it up with the garden > hose. Dried it off and re-cleaned before installing the back baffle. No > leaks. Will do this on the second tank this weekend. Used only about 1/2 > can of sealant for both tanks, still hate the stuff. > > Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) > President and Founder Friends of P-Chan > RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks. > 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuse out of jig!!!
--- Troy Whistman wrote: > > > Congratulations, Ken! Now where did I put those > oars? :-) As I was working on my RV8 yesterday, which is proudly standing on its gear with tailfeathers attached, a delivery person from Airborne Express pulled up to deliver a part. He asked, "What are you building?" I did not feel his question was worthy of an answer and said nothing. He asked again and I finally responded, "A boat." With a big smile he said "Cool !" and drove away.--Note to self, stay with Fedex or UPS. Rob Miller (Ok Ok so I'm not aviation's best ambassador) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Chris, I don't have 800 hrs. taildragger time. But I have 880 tailwheel time without a tailwheel endorsement. Do I qualify. Jim Nolan N444JN P. S. Any low time tailwheel pilot that practices high speed taxi with the tail up is one brick short of a full load. I've got a broke prop hanging in my hanger to prove it. Fly it or land it. Don't do both at the same time. If you want to practice anything to get ready to fly an RV taildragger, rent a Cessna 150 and practice full stall landings. Although six hrs. in a Luscomb helped me also. ----- Original Message ----- From: <CW9371(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 5:22 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > In a message dated 8/9/2000 4:07:48 PM Central Daylight Time, > cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes: > You could have 800 of tail wheel time and no endorsement. That is possible, > not likely but its possible. All he asked about was the endoresement. > In regards to the Starduster if that was at Airventure I know the owner and > pilot. > > CHris WIlcox > F1 rocket kit 000 > > PS I dont think a RV3 is a high perfomance tail dragger or is it? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel endorsement, >I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I >don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as >Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you when >you least expect it. Scott has the right approach. Ok, what about my current situation. Been getting dual in the Starduster for a while now, up to about 20 hours. But, the guys I have been getting dual from are just the other guys in the partnership. (mostly with an ex-AF pilot 5000+hours). They feel that I'm ready to solo the plane. None of them are CFI's. I can't find anybody in the state of Utah who does tailwheel instruction (two months of trying has resulted in only one person who would even return my call to say he couldn't do it). So, no endorsement. Hearing that it may be legal, I'm going to have to go check the documents to see if it has the operating restriction. Would be tairing my hair out of this if I had any left. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) President and Founder Friends of P-Chan RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks. 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: platenut nuts
i have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed) the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something i am missing? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: phlogiston spar/prime or not
i realize the phlogiston spar i purchased has been treated. seems like i read here at one time of a discussion of adding a layer of primer over top of phlogiston ... is this a waste of primer and adding weight? i am using variprime. no primer wars please. i started one several months ago and not mean to do that again. adding any type of primer over any anodized pieces necessary? bob in ark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
One messy way to check is to 'paint' something like diesel fuel over the inside seams and dust talcum powder on the outside. The diesel will seep trhu and stain the talcum. Done this on many a tank and weld, however never on a half finished tank to be prosealed. Gert Pat Hatch wrote: > > > I don't know, Brian, I would respectfully submit that I don't think you have > proven anything with the water. Fuel, after all, is of a different, less > viscous, molecular structure. I can't prove this, but it seems logical that > you might have a leak that water would not leak out of, but avgas would. > No? > > Just my opinion, but I think the best way to leak check your tanks is to put > about 5 gallons of 100LL in them while they are still on the bench. Change > their positions every couple of days until every possible angle has been > checked. I left mine this way for a couple of weeks. If they leak, you're > gonna know about it when you see the telltale blue stain. After I was done > I just put the gas in my--nah, not going to start another thread! > > Pat Hatch > RV-4, N17PH @ VRB > RV-6, Fuselage > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:24 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Leak testing tanks before closing ? > > > > > > > >any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with > > avgas > > >like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing > > down > > >real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when > > attaching > > >the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could > > do > > >the job better? > > > > I just took it out to the back patio and filled it up with the garden > > hose. Dried it off and re-cleaned before installing the back baffle. No > > leaks. Will do this on the second tank this weekend. Used only about 1/2 > > can of sealant for both tanks, still hate the stuff. > > > > Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) > > President and Founder Friends of P-Chan > > RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks. > > 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying > > > > > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Are you using a cleco to hold the other side of the platenut while you are riveting? Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:31 PM Subject: RV-List: platenut nuts > > i have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used > to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach > platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover > attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed) > the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second > rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something i > am missing? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Sorry to hear of your predicament. What you do probably will be dictated by your insurance company. You are flying a proven plane not test flying an unproven plane at the same time trying to learn how to control a taildragger. You obviously have had a check ride with your partners. You will be flying in the same proven plane. I wouldn't fly an RV without get a complete check out and I do own a taildragger with several hundred hours. The pucker factor of test flying without the additional load of learning to take off and land a taildragger is high enough. I will check with my "expert" Earl Lawrence of the EAA about the legality of flying an experimental without a tail wheel endorsement. If one needs an endorsement, Earl probably has a list of qualified CFIs. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 8:28 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > >Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel > endorsement, > >I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I > >don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as > >Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you > when > >you least expect it. Scott has the right approach. > > Ok, what about my current situation. Been getting dual in the > Starduster for a while now, up to about 20 hours. But, the guys I have > been getting dual from are just the other guys in the partnership. (mostly > with an ex-AF pilot 5000+hours). They feel that I'm ready to solo the > plane. None of them are CFI's. I can't find anybody in the state of Utah > who does tailwheel instruction (two months of trying has resulted in only > one person who would even return my call to say he couldn't do it). So, > no endorsement. Hearing that it may be legal, I'm going to have to go > check the documents to see if it has the operating restriction. Would be > tairing my hair out of this if I had any left. > > > Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) > President and Founder Friends of P-Chan > RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks. > 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
Date: Aug 09, 2000
'Agree with Fred that my cap's leaked bad and so I greased the shaft under the nut at the bottom of the cap and put a fillet around the nut to bottom piece joint. Then inserted the cap in tank and covered very very carefully with three pieces of clear packing tape. Two pieces were butt together over the cap and the third over the seam. No leaking caps after that as far as I could tell with my DIY manometer and "blowing bubbles" test, apologies to my young ones for using up their classy bubble blowing bubbles. Marty in Brentwood TN. ----- Original Message ----- From: <Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 9:16 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Leak > > In a message dated 8/8/00 6:00:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > vwelch(at)knownet.net writes: > > << Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I > could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home > from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches > of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result. > > Vince Welch > RV-8A > >> > Check the cap, a lot of them leak through the O-ring in the center bolt. > Fred LaForge So Cal. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Static discharge and KaaaaBooooommmmmm!!!! Marty in Brentwood TN. P.S. I've thought about this, but the idea is not all that appealing. 19 gals of fuel is a bit heavy to move and the tank will need to be well supported, but I'm wondering if others have done this? Maybe only need to use 10 gals. Car gas doesn't have the blue die and is very hard to see any leaks, but some use of baby power on the outside, might show them up, like our bubble test. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:22 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Leak > > How about filling it with avgas, pressurize it, and look for the blue > stain where the gas leaks out? > > Tim Lewis > snip<<< ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John D. Heath" <jheath24(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 09, 2000
There comes a time when, all other things set aside( i.e. regulations, etc. ), Common Sense must prevail. Go take the ride, get the endorsement. JDHeath ( Got my Nose Wheel check ride, early in 1959 ) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 1:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > >Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:00 AM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > > > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft > > > under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type > > > certificate." > > > > > > Jerry Springer > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: "M. Delano" <mdelano(at)mho.net>
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
I had a similar experience, I finally found the tank was OK--- the balloon leaked. Mark Delano Tech. Counselor 6A Fus skins Tim Lewis wrote: > > How about filling it with avgas, pressurize it, and look for the blue > stain where the gas leaks out? > > Tim Lewis > > On 8 Aug 00, at 20:26, Vince Welch wrote: > > > > > Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and > > was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in > > about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect, > > similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on > > the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a > > couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent > > all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed > > up a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple > > of days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble > > the first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and > > nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an > > hour. > > > > Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I > > could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home > > from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 > > inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same > > result. > > > > Vince Welch > > RV-8A > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ****** > Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA > RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 > TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net > http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: phlogiston spar/prime or not
Bob no primer over an anodized surface is neccessary as the anodize is the corrosion preventative Glenn --- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > i realize the phlogiston spar i purchased has been > treated. seems like i > read here at one time of a discussion of adding a > layer of primer over top of > phlogiston ... is this a waste of primer and adding > weight? i am using > variprime. no primer wars please. i started one > several months ago and not > mean to do that again. adding any type of primer > over any anodized pieces > necessary? bob in ark > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > ==== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
Did you remember to dimple the platenut? Also if you hold the platnut in place with a cleco in the other hole while squeezing the other rivet might help. Gary Zilik ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Nut safety
Date: Aug 09, 2000
>Always use a regular washer underneath the lockwasher (internal tooth). This is how my engine was built also... I don't dispute that this is the correct way to do it. However, could someone explain to me why this works? It seems all this does is to rotationally lock the regular washer to the bolt head. The bolt/internal tooth lock washer/regular washer assembly can still turn out. How is this different than just having a bolt and regular washer? Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ENewton57(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
In a message dated 8/9/00 8:49:33 PM Central Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM writes: << have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed) the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something i am missing? >> Dimple the plate nuts as well. Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing skinning) Eric's RV-6A Construction Page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post
Gentlemen: I am running a Bart Lablonde O-360 fuel injected Lycoming with a Lasar Ignition on my RV4. Bart installed the Lasar system and the mags before shipping. I now have 22 flying hours on the aircraft. I wanted to post my experience with the Lasar ignition with the hope that it might help some else and hopefully I can gain some insight as well. I checked the archives. The only post that came close was posted in March 99 by Arthur Whitehead. The engine starts OK and runs smooth when the Lasar unit is on. I know when the Lasar it isn't on because of the indicator light on the panel comes on when the unit turns off. The problem I am having is the unit turns on and off at random in flight for indeterminate periods of time. Sometimes its a minute, other times it stays off for five minutes. Never really timed the actual down time. The unit must have turned on and off 15 times during the 1.5 hour flight today. It turned off on reduced power. Turned off on climb power. Turned on and off at high cruise speed. Turns on and off at low power cruise. Today when the unit turned on and off it, except for the indicator light, it was barely noticeable. Most of the time when it happens it causes the engine to skip a beat and definitely gets your attention. It sounds like a backfire. Probably did backfire. The unit typically runs continuously for the first 20 to 30 minutes. Engine runup isn't what I would expect either. Initial engine runup is to 1,800 rpm with the Lasar on. Switching to the left mag causes a 160 to 190 rpm drop. Back to both (now the Lasar is off) rpm goes to 1760. Right mag sees about the same drop. Both mags when operated alone feel rough and the tach reading (VM1000 - digital) isn't very stable. I tried increasing the engine RPM back to 1800 after the Lasar was switched off. I still see the 160 rpm drop off and a rough engine on a single mag. When the Lasar is on, the engine is silky smooth. With both mags on, the engine exhibits a slight roughness but the rpm is fairly steady. The engine is newly rebuilt and the lower plugs have been exhibiting some wet oil. I have cleaned the lower plugs four times in twenty hours. The plug cleaning was done hoping to eliminate a tendency to backfire when hot at idle. The upper plugs were pulled once and look OK. In all other respects the engine seems to be operating within normal parameters. I have a plenum chamber installed. All four of the cylinder heads typically operate within 15 degrees F. At cruise I am seeing 335 to 350 F. with ambient air at 75F. Exhaust temps are indicating that they all fall within a Max span of 50 degrees. Typical exhaust temps in cruise are 1450 F. Oil temp at cruise is between 185 and 195F. The only other trait I am seeing is that the engine backfires at hot idle. I have tried setting the throttle body mixture linkage leaner without any effect. The engine as now set exhibits about a 10 to 20 rpm increase from 1000 rpm when being shutdown. The shutdown rpm change is a little difficult to see as the readings aren't that stable and change in 10 rpm increments on the screen. For a while I thought maybe the plugs just had some form of fouling. Right now, I'm not quite sure what to make of it. I spoke with Bart about the backfiring and have tried the cures recently posted with no effect. I spoke with a technician from Unison - Lasar who was attending the Oshkosh convention. He asked how old the unit was. I told him it was over two years old but was just placed into service. He mentioned that they had experienced some problems with the older units. He mentioned something about a relay dropping in and out. He said he would get back to me with a fix. As a final point, I never could get the Lasar tachometer input to interface with the VM1000. I called Vision Micro several times and consulted with Unison who referred me back to Vision Micro. I finally defaulted back to using the transducer supplied with the VM1000. The transducer was in close agreement with the tach sensor used during the prop balancing. I would like to know. Does my system operate like your Lasar system? Do you have rough mags during runup? Perhaps a backfire or two during taxi? Tom Brown RV4 RV4Brown(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth?
Yes, this is my question, what are we going to do when we can no longer get 100LL? Was just reading an article in Kit Planes Mag. regarding the future availability of leaded aircraft fuel. Should I be looking for a low compression auto gas compatable engine? Anyone have any insight on this? Kevin Shannon -9 Wings Hooking up aileron pushrods ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Reece" <ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Hi Jim! On your O-290G, the 130hp estimated. Was that 5hp above rated hp due to running at a higher rpm, having a MA-4 carb vs. MA3-SPA, or other reasons? Just curious if there is a simple accessory (e.g. larger carb, etc.) that can give a few extra hp (in luie of using alternate cranks/rods/pistons/heads/etc.) in the O-290 since I'm using one! RV-3's forever!!! Rob ----- Original Message ----- From: <LessDragProd(at)aol.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 5:37 PM Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy > --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com > > In a message dated 08/09/2000 2:19:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >
bruce@triton-dive.com writes: > > > --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com> > > > > Hi Jim, > > > > why did you change power plants to the LOM? > > It was just an interesting challenge to install a smaller engine to make my > RV-3 fly faster and farther. It works. I have heard that a few others that > are doing this, also. > > I replaced a Lyc O-290 (289 cu. in.) with the LOM M332A (245 cu. in.) > > The supercharger was just a guarantee that it would be faster. :-) > > Lyc O-290 (est 130 hp) > LOM M332A (115 hp without supercharger & 140 hp with supercharger) > > Jim Ayers > RV-3 N47RV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: Riveting HS rib
Date: Aug 09, 2000
RV-6 HS Ok I've tried it twice and I need help. I'm done riveting the HS except for 2 rivets that go through one of the HS405s and the HS610 and HS614 (AN470AD4-7s). The problem is the holes are a little too close to the flange (still acceptable) to allow a flush mate with the bucking bar. The rivets bend over big time and are far from acceptable. I tried turning the rivets around but the holes are too close for the rivet gun to mate flush. Can I use pop-rivets here or is there a structural loss? I can't afford to have to drill the rivets out again, the holes are already getting larger. Thankx in advance Steve Hurlbut shurlbut(at)island.net RV-6 emp C-FSND Comox, BC, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
i tried to dimple a platenut but stopped. i seemed to be to hard and did not want to damage. yes i used cleco in other hole and did help some. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
If you cant find any leaks by pressurizing the tank, spraying on a soap solution and carefully inspecting every spot that could possibly leak, then I wouldnt worry about it. Probably cap leaking or balloon. Mine both leaked a little at the caps, around the balloons, and the gasket at the fuel sender. If you have a leak anywhere you will see it immediately with the soap solution on it. Kevin Shannon -9 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: Navaid servo shaking
Date: Aug 10, 2000
I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod or servo crank. 1)How much of this jittering will continue, 2)will aileron/wind forces dampen these oscillations, 3)is the manual aileron trim taking care of this problem (I have electric trim), 4)would springs applied to the servo crank arm help dampen this shaking? I was expecting a smooth operation of the servo to find the null point and control the aileron at that point as necessary. Am I missing something? Dave Ford RV6 wings/fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
In a message dated 08/09/2000 8:19:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com writes: > Hi Jim! > > On your O-290G, the 130hp estimated. Was that 5hp above rated hp due to > running at a higher rpm, having a MA-4 carb vs. MA3-SPA, or other reasons? > Just curious if there is a simple accessory (e.g. larger carb, etc.) that > can give a few extra hp (in luie of using alternate > cranks/rods/pistons/heads/etc.) in the O-290 since I'm using one! > > RV-3's forever!!! > > Rob Just D2 pistons in a G to D conversion. It wasn't ever placed on a dyno to measure what it actually produced. Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV RV-3 SN 306 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2000
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Navaid servo shaking
David Ford wrote: > > > I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod or servo crank. 1)How much of this jittering will continue, 2)will aileron/wind forces dampen these oscillations, 3)is the manual aileron trim taking care of this problem (I have electric trim), 4)would springs applied to the servo crank arm help dampen this shaking? I was expecting a smooth operation of the servo to find the null point and control the aileron at that point as necessary. Am I missing something? > > Dave Ford > RV6 wings/fuselage > > It well work fine in flight. The problem is that the controls of an RV are so friction free. In flight there is enough air pressure against the ailerons that it works great. Mine well shake on the ground unless I stop it by touching the control stick. I installed mine about six years ago and love it on long flights. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Navaid servo shaking
In a message dated 8/9/00 9:58:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dford(at)michweb.net writes: << I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod or servo crank. >> On the ground mine does this too. You can adjust the span pot down a wee bit to minimize but it goes away in the air pretty much. The problem is the RV control system is virtually frictionless and the servo unit is very responsive. A little side pressure on the stick generally damps the hunting oscillation. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Hi Bob, When riveting plate nuts I use a shortened hardware store screw or bolt and sometimes washers to hold the plate nut threads on center and stop the platenut from pulling away when the first rivet is lightly squeezed. I use a cleaco or another rivet to keep the platenut aligned with it's rivet holes. I then go on to squeeze the second rivet ,then finish squeezing the first lightly squeezed rivet. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:31 PM Subject: RV-List: platenut nuts > > i have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used > to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach > platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover > attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed) > the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second > rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something i > am missing? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: phlogiston spar/prime or not
Date: Aug 09, 2000
Hi again Bob, No. ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:42 PM Subject: RV-List: phlogiston spar/prime or not > > i realize the phlogiston spar i purchased has been treated. seems like i > read here at one time of a discussion of adding a layer of primer over top of > phlogiston ... is this a waste of primer and adding weight? i am using > variprime. no primer wars please. i started one several months ago and not > mean to do that again. adding any type of primer over any anodized pieces > necessary? bob in ark > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae>
Subject: Riveting HS rib
Steve, I had a similar problem and circumvented it using Cherrymax rivets - these have more strength as solids in many cases (due to steel mandrel), be careful fitting them as they are difficult to remove. There is a web site http://www.taf.textron.com/ which explains all about these rivets, you may need to go oversize to have the perfect fit. Good Luck, David Roseblade RV6A Wings - UAE Persian Gulf RV-6 HS Ok I've tried it twice and I need help. I'm done riveting the HS except for 2 rivets that go through one of the HS405s and the HS610 and HS614 (AN470AD4-7s). The problem is the holes are a little too close to the flange (still acceptable) to allow a flush mate with the bucking bar. The rivets bend over big time and are far from acceptable. I tried turning the rivets around but the holes are too close for the rivet gun to mate flush. Can I use pop-rivets here or is there a structural loss? I can't afford to have to drill the rivets out again, the holes are already getting larger. Thankx in advance Steve Hurlbut shurlbut(at)island.net RV-6 emp C-FSND Comox, BC, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Tank Leak
Date: Aug 10, 2000
> Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. snip > Does anyone have any ideas at all? snip Faulty balloon possibly............Norman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ronvandervort(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post
Hello Tom Brown, I have the Lasar on a new 0-360-A1A from Van's. I have not noticed any Lasar shut downs at cruise with 337 hrs on engine. I do however get momentary, 20 second, shut downs sometimes base to final or other times when I may make significant changes in MAP, i.e. formation flying or "rat racing". At approx 300 hrs. the left mag died and Unison sent me new mags both for the left and right due to the relay problems you alluded to. I still have not learned if that is what failed in my left mag as those Unison folks have been so busy with Oshkosh they haven't had time to get back to me. I shall be giving them a call again now that Oshkosh has been over for awhile. I have not had any backfires during taxi. I do not have any excessive RPM drop off/on Lasar. Mag drops 50-75 RPM. I do get the usual popping at idle on approach. Perhaps leaning a bit on final would help. I haven't tried that. Hope this helps some. Ron Vandervort, RV-6, Seattle Area ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
> >i have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used >to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach >platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover >attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed) >the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second >rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something i >am missing? This won't help you here, but it could in the future. I use NAS1097 "cheater" rivets on most of my platenuts. They are flush head rivets with smaller than normal heads. The heads are small enough that you can countersink for them, even in fairly thin material. This means the platenuts will sit flat against the back side of the material, and you don't need to dimple the blasted things. You can get the NAS1097 rivets from Avery and Vans. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting elevators, etc) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl>
Subject: audio flight avionics
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Hello Does anybody knows if Audio Flight Avionics is still in business? Their website is no longer available and I have no idea how to reach them. Thanks in advance Arnold de Brie RV8 The Netherlands ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Navaid servo shaking
Previous posts are accurate relative to the unit not shaking in the air. One other potential source for the oscillations is the power source you are using to drive the unit. If you use an underpowered AC convertor you may also get an oscillation. I first attempted to test my Navaid in the shop with a small Radio Shack power supply and saw the oscillations. A larger unit worked fine. I would recommend testing with a battery if you can. I have set up an oscillation in flight by turning the unit on in the wing leveler mode and placing the aircraft in a small banked turn. Bump the stick and the oscillations start. It seems to work fine in steeper turns. I haven't gotten to that portion of the flight testing to really fine tune the unit. Tom Brown RV4 - Navaid equipped 20 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: "Bob U." <rv3(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Hi Y'all, It takes a certain minimum amount of fuel to feed our horses. Assuming .43 pounds per horsepower (or whatever you like), one can figure the approximate horsepower being generated via fuel consumption. Applying this to the info below makes for interesting reading. Bob Urban RV-3 N863WL +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > Hi All, > > When I had the O-290 in my RV-3, I normally flew at at 165 mph true ias > between 9,500' and 11,500' for cross country flights. I frequently flew with > another RV-3, N51RV, which was powered by an IO-320. We consistantly burned > 6.0 gph. > > The LOM M332A engine (245 cu.in.) at 160 mph true ias burns 5.0 gph, and at > 175-180 mph true ias at 9,500' burns 6.2 gph. > > I am in the process of completely rewiring my RV-3. I am installing a > Microair 760 COM and a fuelscan (Matronics) fuel flow meter. I thought I > might find a sweet spot in fuel consumption by varying the mp and rpm at a > given air speed. > > Jim Ayers > RV-3 N47RV (Why does an annual take more than a year?) :-( ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Navaid servo shaking
you should check with Navaid there is a fix for this condition with a resiter and some internal friction that can be added Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Oil filler neck it too long
I am installing in IO-360 in my RV-4 and find the dipstick inteferes with the upper cowl. Lycoming tells me the next size smaller is so much shorter that it will make it difficult to reach in to add oil. Have any listers successfully shortened a filler neck by removing a section from the center? If so, what adhesive did you use to rejoin the halves? Thanks in advance for the help. Dean Pichon RV-4 Fitting Cowl Arlington, MA **** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.**** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Riveting HS rib
Date: Aug 10, 2000
There were several places in my building so far where the plans called for rivets that were just too long. No amount of care would keep them from bending over... When I used a smaller rivet, I got the proper sized shop head with no difficulties. Make sure the rivet you are using (even if it's the one spec'd in the plans) is not too long. Check the shop head with a guage if you go smaller to make sure you have not gone too small. Some of them I had to cut down half a size to make them what I wanted them to be. Don't be shy about this, you're the manufacturer....make it work. :-) Bill -4 wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 11:14 PM Subject: RV-List: Riveting HS rib > > RV-6 HS > Ok I've tried it twice and I need help. I'm done riveting the HS except for > 2 rivets that go through one of the HS405s and the HS610 and HS614 > (AN470AD4-7s). The problem is the holes are a little too close to the flange > (still acceptable) to allow a flush mate with the bucking bar. The rivets > bend over big time and are far from acceptable. I tried turning the rivets > around but the holes are too close for the rivet gun to mate flush. Can I > use pop-rivets here or is there a structural loss? I can't afford to have to > drill the rivets out again, the holes are already getting larger. > > Thankx in advance > > Steve Hurlbut > shurlbut(at)island.net > RV-6 emp > C-FSND > Comox, BC, Canada > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net>
Subject: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Tom, I have a Bart O-320 160hp engine with LASAR with about 40 hours on it. My engine is also about two years old. I found a fix for at least one of your problems at Oshkosh this year. I too have seen the intermittent drop out of the system. When I saw the Unison folks at Oshkosh, I spent some time talking to their head technician. I don't have his name handy, it might have been Jim. In any event, I spoke with him and he was reluctant at first to do much, but I persisted. I finally convinced him to come out to the flight line to look at my system. He grabbed up his computer, tool bag and we headed out to my airplane. On the way, I told him about the RV-list, and how I can speak instantly to over 2000+ builders around the world, many of whom buy new engines and try new technologies LIKE ELECTRONIC IGNITION. I don't know if I saw him swallow hard or if it was just an optical illusion brought on by the high price for fountain drinks on the grounds at AirVenture. When he looked at my system, he was looking for two things. One, did I have an older control box and two, did I have the older mags. He found that I had the newer control box and he could tell by looking at the output ports on the bottom. I'm going from memory here, but I think if you have a round bayonet-type plug for the computer interface on the right hand side of the box when looking straight at it, then it is a newer box. If you have an older box, there is a software patch that needs to be applied. This can be done by hooking a computer up to the interface port and downloading the new software. Since I didn't need to have this done, I don't know how difficult it might be. I assume that you should send them your box and they could fix it and send it back to you. He then turned his attention to my mags. As it turned out, mine were are the older style mags. The older mags have an internal relay that trips intermittently due to vibration. The newer design externalized the relay in the wiring harness to provide the requisite vibration dampening. He took my name and address and about 5 days after Oshkosh, a new set of mags arrived at my front door free of charge. He was also supposed to send me a timing light too, but I haven't seen that yet so the mags are sitting on my workbench. When I get home, I will look for this guy's card and get you his name. I'd call him and bug him until he relents. Now, I also have a similar problem as you in that no matter how I adjust the mixture screw on the carb, I don't get a rise in RPM at cut off. I have moved the screw in and out almost its full length without change. I intend to have my mechanic take a look at it when I have him replace the mags. I don't think the two are related but who knows. I'm not much of an engine guy. My bird does not exhibit any of the other problems you describe. I get about a 75 RPM drop when testing the mags and my system runs only slightly rougher in mag mode than in electronic ignition mode. I haven't noticed any backfiring or popping but maybe my ANR headsets are just doing their job. When I checked my plugs at 25 hours, they were all a nice pale gray hue. One thing that I did recently was I had my prop dynamically balanced and it has made a world of difference in reducing the vibrations. You might want to give this some thought. Good luck on getting things worked out. I will get you the guys name tomorrow. Let me know what you find out on the other issues. Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (40 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post
Date: Aug 10, 2000
I would contact Harry Fenton... harry(at)unisonindustries.com Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: <RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 10:16 PM Subject: RV-List: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post > > Gentlemen: > > I am running a Bart Lablonde O-360 fuel injected Lycoming with a Lasar > Ignition on my RV4. Bart installed the Lasar system and the mags before > shipping. I now have 22 flying hours on the aircraft. I wanted to post my > experience with the Lasar ignition with the hope that it might help some else > and hopefully I can gain some insight as well. I checked the archives. The > only post that came close was posted in March 99 by Arthur Whitehead. > > The engine starts OK and runs smooth when the Lasar unit is on. I know > when the Lasar it isn't on because of the indicator light on the panel comes > on when the unit turns off. The problem I am having is the unit turns on and > off at random in flight for indeterminate periods of time. Sometimes its a > minute, other times it stays off for five minutes. Never really timed the > actual down time. The unit must have turned on and off 15 times during the > 1.5 hour flight today. It turned off on reduced power. Turned off on climb > power. Turned on and off at high cruise speed. Turns on and off at low > power cruise. Today when the unit turned on and off it, except for the > indicator light, it was barely noticeable. Most of the time when it happens > it causes the engine to skip a beat and definitely gets your attention. It > sounds like a backfire. Probably did backfire. The unit typically runs > continuously for the first 20 to 30 minutes. > > Engine runup isn't what I would expect either. Initial engine runup is > to 1,800 rpm with the Lasar on. Switching to the left mag causes a 160 to > 190 rpm drop. Back to both (now the Lasar is off) rpm goes to 1760. Right > mag sees about the same drop. Both mags when operated alone feel rough and > the tach reading (VM1000 - digital) isn't very stable. I tried increasing > the engine RPM back to 1800 after the Lasar was switched off. I still see > the 160 rpm drop off and a rough engine on a single mag. When the Lasar is > on, the engine is silky smooth. With both mags on, the engine exhibits a > slight roughness but the rpm is fairly steady. > The engine is newly rebuilt and the lower plugs have been exhibiting some > wet oil. I have cleaned the lower plugs four times in twenty hours. The > plug cleaning was done hoping to eliminate a tendency to backfire when hot at > idle. The upper plugs were pulled once and look OK. > In all other respects the engine seems to be operating within normal > parameters. I have a plenum chamber installed. All four of the cylinder > heads typically operate within 15 degrees F. At cruise I am seeing 335 to > 350 F. with ambient air at 75F. Exhaust temps are indicating that they all > fall within a Max span of 50 degrees. Typical exhaust temps in cruise are > 1450 F. Oil temp at cruise is between 185 and 195F. > > The only other trait I am seeing is that the engine backfires at hot > idle. I have tried setting the throttle body mixture linkage leaner without > any effect. The engine as now set exhibits about a 10 to 20 rpm increase from > 1000 rpm when being shutdown. The shutdown rpm change is a little difficult > to see as the readings aren't that stable and change in 10 rpm increments on > the screen. For a while I thought maybe the plugs just had some form of > fouling. Right now, I'm not quite sure what to make of it. I spoke with Bart > about the backfiring and have tried the cures recently posted with no effect. > > I spoke with a technician from Unison - Lasar who was attending the > Oshkosh convention. He asked how old the unit was. I told him it was over > two years old but was just placed into service. He mentioned that they had > experienced some problems with the older units. He mentioned something about > a relay dropping in and out. He said he would get back to me with a fix. > > As a final point, I never could get the Lasar tachometer input to > interface with the VM1000. I called Vision Micro several times and consulted > with Unison who referred me back to Vision Micro. I finally defaulted back to > using the transducer supplied with the VM1000. The transducer was in close > agreement with the tach sensor used during the prop balancing. > > I would like to know. Does my system operate like your Lasar system? Do > you have rough mags during runup? Perhaps a backfire or two during taxi? > > Tom Brown RV4 > RV4Brown(at)aol.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________ Thread-Index: AcACwMi4SLqVkTCQRnmyJTQ1xE72GQADO+YQ
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: audio flight avionics
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Thread-Topic: RV-List: audio flight avionics Arnold, AFA has gone through some changes. There were several partners and their relationship dissolved because of some money problems. Peter, the engineer who designed the AV-10, is manufacturing/selling them on his own. I just flew my RV-6 and have an AV-10 in my airplane and am very happy with it. Peter has been great with support issues, and is adding some features to the AV-10 that I have requested. His email is wedgie(at)interlog.com. Thanks! Bob Japundza RealMed Corporation www.realmed.com -----Original Message----- From: Arnold de Brie [mailto:ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl] Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 2:46 PM Subject: RV-List: audio flight avionics Hello Does anybody knows if Audio Flight Avionics is still in business? Their website is no longer available and I have no idea how to reach them. Thanks in advance Arnold de Brie RV8 The Netherlands ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Oil filler neck it too long
On my 0320 I shortened the tube and spliced it back together with a pvc pipe coupling glued with pvc cement. Shorten the dipstick the same amount by removing the roll pin in the cap and then drill a new hole for it. I put 2 pop rivits in thru the coupling to carry the torsional loads caused by tightening the dipstick. Stewart Bergner RV4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth?
--- Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > Yes, this is my question, what are we going to do when we can no > longer get > 100LL? Was just reading an article in Kit Planes Mag. regarding the > future > availability of leaded aircraft fuel. Should I be looking for a low > compression auto gas compatable engine? Two months ago in Sport Aviation there was an article about the EAA and AOPA working with EPA and some other government alphabet soup outfit to develop a suitable _high octane_ replacement for 100LL. I'm thinking you can safely stay with current compression ratios. I am! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Oil filler neck it too long
> I am installing in IO-360 in my RV-4 and find the dipstick inteferes with the > upper cowl. Lycoming tells me the next size smaller is so much shorter that it > will make it difficult to reach in to add oil. I used a short one on my -4. Works good have a small funnel that I bought at Walmart for 99cents that works great. I traded a long one for a short one with Steve Chia in Indiana. Be sure to put the oil door in the right place so you can use the short one. Carroll Bird ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Necessary Tail Endorsement
Date: Aug 10, 2000
I don't know if you need a tailwheel endorsement to legally fly a tailwheel RV. What I do know is that you will not be able to get insurance for your plane if you are not endorsed. Maybe that if more relevant. Also, as a relatively low time pilot who purchased his RV already completed and flying, I can tell you that it was an adjustment from run-of-the-mill Cessna nose draggers. It was easier to fly (what do you mean carb heat off and flaps up on a go around, I'm climbing at 1000fpm, isn't that good enough!!), but much harder to drive. About 5 hours into my transition training in my RV-4 I had to go to Florida on business. I took the opportunity to get a lesson in a Cub and realized something. The RV is more difficult to drive than a Cub also. The instructor who went up with me in the Cub offered to give me a tailwheel endorsement on the spot. I declined, I still was far from safe in my RV and that's what I wanted my endorsement for. By the way, the Cub was much harder to FLY than the RV, can you say "adverse aileron yaw". In the end, my instructor signed me off after about 15 hours in my RV, the first 3 or 4 spent in the back seat with temporarily installed rudder pedals. My patience paid off, I have in the last month put in about 20 trouble free solo hours in my RV. It is the most incredible machine I could ever imagine. My final thought, I bought my RV. If I wad it up in a ball by ground looping it or landing hard, my insurance will pay me and I will buy another one, in a sense it is replaceable. I could not even imagine cutting corners on training if I had sunk countless untold thousands of hours and years of my life into building one. That's it, end of editorial. Good luck to all, and if anyone is in CT and wants a "motivation" ride, look me up. Don Mei RV-4 N92CT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Spacing between elevator horn and HS skin
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Even after looking at RV's at Oshkosh I missed these details - argh! I just completed the right elevator to the point of inspection (Canadian reg's). I then test fitted it to the HS and found that I have a 3/16 inch gap between the elevator horn skin and the HS. I gather this must be right since I'm building with pre-punched parts. It just seems a lot and I can't think of any way to narrow the gap. Also, does anyone cover up the inside of the horn where one of the counter balance weights is? It looks very 'open' by just leaving it this way. Are RV-8 Wings on order ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Wing tanks for RV-8
Date: Aug 10, 2000
I saw a post about a month ago that someone was selling a pair of new tip tanks. It must not have been archived since I can't find the post. Can anyone remember who it was or if someone bought them? Are RV-8 Wings on order. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Navaid servo shaking
David Ford wrote: > > > I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod or servo crank. 1)How much of this jittering will continue, 2)will aileron/wind forces dampen these oscillations, 3)is the manual aileron trim taking care of this problem (I have electric trim), 4)would springs applied to the servo crank arm help dampen this shaking? I was expecting a smooth operation of the servo to find the null point and control the aileron at that point as necessary. Am I missing something? Dave, as other replies have noted, you shouldn't have a problem with the Navaid jittering while airborne. You want to adjust the span pot as far clockwise as possible without have the servo jitter in flight. This will assure adequate sensitivity for proper tracking with your GPS. However, this is another good reason to consider installing the manual aileron trim if a Navaid is going to be installed. Not only does the manual system work extremely well, you can preload the Navaid with the system to eliminate any residual hunting by the servo. Sam Buchanan (RV-6 faithfully guided by Navaid and Lowrance AirMap 100) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Tank Leak- for Norm
I don't know if you caught my post from Wednesday. Here it is again. --------------- I used Hobby Store bulk super glue (sold under various trade names....2.5 oz. applicator bottles). There are three thicknesses of this stuff. I used the real thin mix ( this stuff is thinner than water-if thats possible). Anyway, a drop or two of this stuff wicks under the rivet head and a shot of activator (spray pump bottle- same brand as the super glue) instantly ( and I mean instantly) sets the "wicked-in" super glue. Took ten minutes to do entire tank and I never had a leak. Now, I know my riveting of the pro-seal-ed tanks should have produced some leaks. I think this method of sealing saved the day for me. BTW the Mooney folks sell a kit simular to this for lots of $$$. That is where I got the idea. vwelch(at)knownet.net on 08/08/2000 08:26:24 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Tank Leak Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect, similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an hour. Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result. Vince Welch RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: Oil filler neck it too long
Check the archives. We talked about some approaches a while ago. We took along one, cut the tube with a tubing cutter, remarked the dip-stick ( via the cut away piece) and glued the tube back together with a PVC coupler with PVC cement. catbird(at)taylorelectric.com on 08/10/2000 09:52:52 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil filler neck it too long > I am installing in IO-360 in my RV-4 and find the dipstick inteferes with the > upper cowl. Lycoming tells me the next size smaller is so much shorter that it > will make it difficult to reach in to add oil. I used a short one on my -4. Works good have a small funnel that I bought at Walmart for 99cents that works great. I traded a long one for a short one with Steve Chia in Indiana. Be sure to put the oil door in the right place so you can use the short one. Carroll Bird ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Wing tanks for RV-8
Date: Aug 10, 2000
I saw a post about a month ago that someone was selling a pair of new tip tanks. It must not have been archived since I can't find the post. Can anyone remember who it was or if someone bought them? Are RV-8 Wings on order. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Navaid servo shaking
David Ford wrote: > > > I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod or servo crank. 1)How much of this jittering will continue, 2)will aileron/wind forces dampen these oscillations, 3)is the manual aileron trim taking care of this problem (I have electric trim), 4)would springs applied to the servo crank arm help dampen this shaking? I was expecting a smooth operation of the servo to find the null point and control the aileron at that point as necessary. Am I missing something? Dave, as other replies have noted, you shouldn't have a problem with the Navaid jittering while airborne. You want to adjust the span pot as far clockwise as possible without have the servo jitter in flight. This will assure adequate sensitivity for proper tracking with your GPS. However, this is another good reason to consider installing the manual aileron trim if a Navaid is going to be installed. Not only does the manual system work extremely well, you can preload the Navaid with the system to eliminate any residual hunting by the servo. Sam Buchanan (RV-6 faithfully guided by Navaid and Lowrance AirMap 100) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: audio flight avionics
In a message dated 8/10/00 4:37:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time, ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl writes: << Does anybody knows if Audio Flight Avionics is still in business? Their website is no longer available and I have no idea how to reach them. >> The latest update of the Yeller Pages will have this new listing: AUDIO FLIGHT AVIONICS (PETER RUMMELL) 416-264-0968 VOICE ALERTING ENGINE MONITOR They have had some problems in the past so you should exercise caution. That being said, Peter contacted me recently and made a posting to the list indicating that he was working very hard to get back in the good graces with his customers. So give it a shot. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: Wing tanks for RV-8
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Jon Johanson sell tip tanks through Vans Catalog. They hold 8.5 gallons ea. Check the online catalog at http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=965921460-118-492&acti on=search Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ----- Original Message ----- From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 10:58 AM Subject: RV-List: Wing tanks for RV-8 > > I saw a post about a month ago that someone was selling a pair of new tip > tanks. It must not have been archived since I can't find the post. Can > anyone remember who it was or if someone bought them? > > Are > RV-8 > Wings on order. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com>
Subject: Wing tanks for RV-8
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Are, It was Matthew Gelber: Troy Whistman For Sale: Brand new Van's wingtip fuel tanks. These are the ones in the catalog, for a 6A or an 8A, with the internal lighting. They go for $1950 new; these haven't been touched (well, maybe I fondled them a bit when I unpacked them). I would like to get $1750 for them, and I'll pay to ship them to you insured in the mainland U.S. Actually, I'd rather sell them to someone in CA, OR, or NV and fly them to you (any excuse to go somewhere). They take a long time to get from Vans... The story- I am switching from an 8 to an 8A and the tip tank filler and sump are in the wrong locations for the 8A, so they won't work. Too bad- they're gorgeous. Email me at mgelber(at)pacbell.net . If I don't get any takers I'll put an ad in the Rvator and try to sell them to the common folk (i.e. non-listers). Matthew RV-8A wings -----Original Message----- From: Are Barstad [mailto:abarstad(at)bconnex.net] Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 9:59 AM Subject: RV-List: Wing tanks for RV-8 I saw a post about a month ago that someone was selling a pair of new tip tanks. It must not have been archived since I can't find the post. Can anyone remember who it was or if someone bought them? Are RV-8 Wings on order. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Earl Lawrence" <elawrence(at)eaa.org> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 10:05 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > Cy: > Regarding the tailwheel endorsement I can't give a clear yes or no answer > but here is the information you need. > > FAR 61 provides an exemption for experimental aircraft pilots from the > category, class, type ratings and endorsement requirements in FAR Part 61. > The intent of this exemption is to deal with new flying machines for which > there is no category, class, or ratings yet created for the aircraft. The > operating limitations issued to amateur-built aircraft are suppose to have a > limitation listed that requires the pilot of the experimental amateur-built > aircraft to hold all appropriate ratings and endorsements. However this > limitation is not always listed in the operating limitations. > So first the pilot must check the aircraft operating limitations to see if > that limitation is there. If that limitation does exists then yes the pilot > must have the tailwheel endorsement. > > If the aircraft does not have the endorsement operating limitation, then the > pilot has the burden of proof to show he is not operating the aircraft in a > careless and reckless manner (91.13) and that he received all appropriate > and available training to operate the aircraft. In this case if an accident > occurs the FAA can violate the pilot for careless operation of the aircraft > and it will be up to the pilot to prove he was not reckless and that he > received all appropriate training even though he does not have the tailwheel > endorsement. The burden of proof is on the pilot not the FAA. > > EAA suggests the pilot get the tailwheel endorsement. > > EAA currently does not have a listing of a CFI in Utah with available to do > tailwheel endorsements. > > Earl Lawrence > > -----Original Message----- > From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)qcbc.org] > Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:05 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > Sorry to hear of your predicament. What you do probably will be dictated by > your insurance company. You are flying a proven plane not test flying an > unproven plane at the same time trying to learn how to control a > taildragger. You obviously have had a check ride with your partners. You > will be flying in the same proven plane. > > I wouldn't fly an RV without get a complete check out and I do own a > taildragger with several hundred hours. The pucker factor of test flying > without the additional load of learning to take off and land a taildragger > is high enough. > > I will check with my "expert" Earl Lawrence of the EAA about the legality of > flying an experimental without a tail wheel endorsement. If one needs an > endorsement, Earl probably has a list of qualified CFIs. > > Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! > (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 8:28 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? > > > > > > >Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel > > endorsement, > > >I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I > > >don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as > > >Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you > > when > > >you least expect it. Scott has the right approach. > > > > Ok, what about my current situation. Been getting dual in the > > Starduster for a while now, up to about 20 hours. But, the guys I have > > been getting dual from are just the other guys in the partnership. (mostly > > with an ex-AF pilot 5000+hours). They feel that I'm ready to solo the > > plane. None of them are CFI's. I can't find anybody in the state of Utah > > who does tailwheel instruction (two months of trying has resulted in only > > one person who would even return my call to say he couldn't do it). So, > > no endorsement. Hearing that it may be legal, I'm going to have to go > > check the documents to see if it has the operating restriction. Would be > > tairing my hair out of this if I had any left. > > > > > > Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) > > President and Founder Friends of P-Chan > > RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks. > > 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
Good posts by the other folks. I also wanted to mention that Skybolt (see Yeller Pages) sells platenuts that have dimpled rivet holes. I ordered a bunch & they work very well. Their catalog is very informative also. Phil, 80691 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
sorry yellow pages?? how about an address for the counter plate... thanx, bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
> Good posts by the other folks. I also wanted to mention that Skybolt (see > Yeller Pages) sells platenuts that have dimpled rivet holes. I ordered a > bunch & they work very well. Their catalog is very informative also. > > Phil, 80691 > I use them a lot too. I got mine from Wick's web site. ==== Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
They also carry dimpled platenuts to take the 100 degree counter-sunk screws we use. pdsmith(at)pacbell.net on 08/10/2000 01:42:33 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: platenut nuts Good posts by the other folks. I also wanted to mention that Skybolt (see Yeller Pages) sells platenuts that have dimpled rivet holes. I ordered a bunch & they work very well. Their catalog is very informative also. Phil, 80691 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Tom' Keep me posted if a spot opens up, I'd sure like to go. By the way when and how much? Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
Bob: GV's Yeller pages can be found at: http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm Once you're on this page you can just press Control-F to find the supplier that you're interested in. In this case it's SKYBOLT AIRMOTIVE 407-889-2613 skybolt@mindspring.com http://www.skybolt.com AIRCRAFT FASTENERS, HOSES AND FITTINGS Phil, 80691 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
I got my countersunk plate nuts from http://www.wicksaircraft.com I used a lot of them on the wings. Very handy. > sorry yellow pages?? how about an address for the counter plate... thanx, bob > ==== Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.)
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth?
In my case ,with H pistons 9 to 1. If 100LL is not availible I will change pistons.I tried Amoco Hi test and my 0320 A2B does not like it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts another source
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Right here in the Dallas area. I've visited them...they have (or seem to be able to get) EVERY type fastener known to aviation mankind. I just got a bunch of really dimpled (all three places) platenuts that I used to make my 6A baggage floorboards removeable (I'm an inspection freak - and I will probably add the steps later). Aircraft Supply Company @ 214-688-0549 ask for Alvin - tell him what you're building and I sent ya! I have one of their old catalogs and we were able to decipher exactly what I needed. Ralph Capen RV6A QB N822AR Dallas My baggage floorboards are removeable - structural and don't have screwheads stickin' up! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: phlogiston spar/prime or not
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Bob, Adding any primer over anodized pieces is not necessary. If you are in any question that a pice is anodized try this little trick. Get out your multi-meter and conduct a resistance check. Put the two probes anywhere on the piece and the resisitance should stay infinite. The anodized produces and electrical barrier which is part of the reason it stops corrosion. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: phlogiston spar/prime or not >Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 21:42:48 EDT > > >i realize the phlogiston spar i purchased has been treated. seems like i >read here at one time of a discussion of adding a layer of primer over top >of >phlogiston ... is this a waste of primer and adding weight? i am using >variprime. no primer wars please. i started one several months ago and not >mean to do that again. adding any type of primer over any anodized pieces >necessary? bob in ark > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Flight Test "Checklist"
Date: Aug 10, 2000
FWIW, just received the publication "Flight Test Checklist: Homebuilder's Flight Test Guide" by Jerry Milek. Just thumbing through it, it looks like a good overview with "fill in the data" pages for your initial series of flight tests. It's more than just recording oil temps, etc.--covers such things as "longitudinal stability", ROC test, etc. etc. I purchased this from JaviFix, Inc.--fax is 613-965-1886, e-mail is javifix(at)reach.net. I know this sounds like an endorsement. It is, but I'm not paid nor am I affiliated with this outfit . . . for $12 U.S. I just felt this was a worthwhile publication. Rick Jory, RV8A QB (mounting the engine) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv8don(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Subject: Century I wing-leveler gyro pinout
I've got a Century I Turn Cooridnator with Wing Leveler and Tracking cabability. Can anyone out there provide me the pin-out for this unit. It uses one of the older-style 14-pin "D" connectors (looks like a minature Centronics printer connector). My particular gyro was a Michell manufacture, model # 52D75-4. the -4 indicates the tracker function. The -3 was a wing leveler only. Regards, -Don RV8 NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: platenut nuts
Listers, I've purchased the "dimpled" nut plates from both Wicks and Skybolt. You can order nut plates with the dimpled rivet holes by simply adding the letter K to the suffix of the nut plate number. Using the current (not Van's outdated K-100 or what ever) designation of MS21047-xx This is a standard 2 lug nutplate. The suffix (xx) denotes the screw size To order this nutplate with dimpled rivet holes, order it as follows MS21047-xxK You say you want the screw hole dimpled as well? Order MS21049-xxK You can find all sorts of nut plate styles in AC43.13-1b in Chapter 7 AIRCRAFT HARDWARE on page 7-65 through 7-67 Check out this entire chapter. It will be an education. That IS part of why we are allowed to build our own aircraft. You can download AC43.13-1b here: http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/ Don't leave home without it!! Charlie Kuss RV-8 Dang! After using all those little rivets, these pieces of aluminium actually resemble wings!!! :-) Boca Raton, Fl. > > Good posts by the other folks. I also wanted to mention that Skybolt (see > Yeller Pages) sells platenuts that have dimpled rivet holes. I ordered a > bunch & they work very well. Their catalog is very informative also. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dustin Norlund" <dustin_norlund(at)geotec.net>
Subject: Are you missing your nose gear?
Date: Aug 10, 2000
Are you missing your nose gear? It seems that Vans has sent me someones nose gear on accident. I did not unpack it the whole way but enough to see the gear leg, and toe. I ordered prop bolts, and some 4130 1/2 inch tube ect. If you have my bolts, and hardware i will trade. Due to the fact that vans is closed for a while we might be able to do it faster directly. Contact me off list please. .-. / \ .-. .-. / \ / \ .-. _ .-. / \ /-Dustin Norlund------------/---\--/--\------/------\- \ / \ / `-' `-' \ / \ / `-' `-' `-' 9119 North 102nd East Avenue Owasso, OK 74055 KD5JXZ PPSEL RV6 N555DN (wings on, final rigging and trim) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com>
Subject: Drooping left wing tip
Date: Aug 10, 2000
I had that problem with my left wing tip (a very old kit 1993). When I looked at it I found the seam was not bonded straight like the other tip. I ended up slicing it with a die grinder and stitching together with safety wire to re-bond. Then refinished and installed. A real pain. If this is the problem, might be worth buying new tip. However, None of this is definitively responsible for you trim issue. Could be something else causing you to trim over. I recommend further investigation. Others on line may have had trim issues to debug. mike wilson, RV4 -----Original Message----- From: Andy [mailto:winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com] Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 4:11 PM Subject: RV-List: Drooping left wing tip With everything else lined up (both flaps, both ailerons and the right wing tip) the trailing edge of my left tip droops about 1/4". As a consequence I always have to fly with a bit of left up aileron. Trim wise, this is compensated for by Van's aileron trim in the full left position and the airplane will maintain itself hands off, however it has always been an annoying feature of my 6A and I would also suspect it is costing me at least a couple of knots. I suppose my first question, before I tear my wing apart and attempt to rebuild the tip is whether of not this is a common problem. Does anybody else have a tip that misaligns with the other, or with the rest of the trailing edge? If so, have you done anything to correct it? Did you notice a speed increase when you did? As far as fixing it, I'm wondering if I can "bend" it up a bit by building a corrective jig and heating it with a heat gun, or if it will need to be cut up and reglassed. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2000
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
Subject: Wanted: KT-76C
Hi gang, Does any have a new KT-76C transponder with tray and harness that they want to sell? Van's lag time may prevent me from picking up my RV-4 until after the winter, and Van's is the only place that will sell a new KT-76-C un-installed. Please, please, please. Thanks. Louis Louis I. Willig larywil(at)home.com RV-4, N8ZW in my near future (610) 668-4964 Philadelphia, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post
Date: Aug 10, 2000
> [Original Message] > From: <RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM> > To: > Date: 8/9/00 11:20:01 PM > Subject: RV-List: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post > > > Gentlemen: > > I am running a Bart Lablonde O-360 fuel injected Lycoming with a Lasar > Ignition on my RV4. Bart installed the Lasar system and the mags before > shipping. I now have 22 flying hours on the aircraft. I wanted to post my > experience with the Lasar ignition with the hope that it might help some else > and hopefully I can gain some insight as well. I checked the archives. The > only post that came close was posted in March 99 by Arthur Whitehead. Tom, listers: I am also using the Unison system. Mine is on an 0-360-D3G, carburated, in an RV-4. The unit is about two years old with about 100 hours of service. I also use the VM1000. Re mag drops on pre-flight run up. I see the same 200 rpm drops you report at 1800. I think this is normal since when you begin the check the computer (and low RPM timing retard) are removed for about 20-30 seconds. The engine runs about like any other on one normal mag during the check. I have experienced a few cases where the computer will not come back on after the ground check. In these cases cycling the master switch (reboot?) cures the problem. I have seen only one instance of in flight computer drop off - that during a 4 G pull and simultaneous power reduction on the back side of a loop. It came back by itself in about 10 seconds. I called either Vision or Unison ref the RPM pickup. I don't remember now what they said but I put the wires where they told me too and it has worked fine with what appears to accurate and stable RPM readings. I am very happy with the engine's smoothness and improved economy particularly at the higher altitudes. Dick Sipp RV4 250DS 180 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth?
Date: Aug 10, 2000
I was talking with a friend, and RV-8 builder, about running auto gas in Lycomings today, and maybe he's nuts, or maybe he was drinking, but he told be that UN-leaded auto gas has more lead in it that 100LL. If this is true, octane rating aside, there should be no real engine wear problems due to loss of lubrication in running it... What do you all think? Bill VonDane, Colorado RV-8A, N912V, Wings http://vondane.com/rv8a/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth?
Date: Aug 10, 2000
> >I was talking with a friend, and RV-8 builder, about running auto gas in >Lycomings today, and maybe he's nuts, or maybe he was drinking, but he told >be that UN-leaded auto gas has more lead in it that 100LL. > Yeh, it must be one of the two. Unleaded auto gas has NO lead. 100 lowlead has a bunch of lead. That is the one that has the deceptive name. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 11, 2000
Subject: HS Attachment to Fuse...
Gang, Once again pulling my hair out in the shop.......!!!! In the process of attaching the HS to the fuse on a 6A QB. Drawing 34 shows a F-611E Spacer/Control Stop. On the drawing it shows, I believe, the F-611E mounted under the surface which (on the quick builds) is already installed..I think.... My neat little spacer that I made wont work on top since the rivits for the angle below it are already in place (unless Im supposed to drill those out?), and I dont think it goes on top.....does it? I think Im a bit confused...it looks like vans has installed a .125 inch alum angle underneath already, but not in the shape of the F-611E? Any other Quickbuilders agree/disagree? It also looks like my control stop wouldn't really stop the Elev Control arm anyway...so Im a bit confused by that also. The plans call for the 611E to be 5 5/16 in width, but if you put it on the fuse right where the plans show on Drawing 34 (right next to the F-611 Bars) it should actually be about 6 1/4in in width. Hmmmmm. This along with the lack of written instructions doesnt help.......can you tell its midnight... =) So I guess my question is.....do I even bother with the 611E on the quickbuild? Or is there a better way to do this? Thanks for you help...and thanks for letting me vent!!!!!!! Kurt in OKC oh and PS...if anyone can find that %$#&**# 1x1 1/4 angle that Im supposed to make the F-612B out of in my Garage that would be greatly appreciated.....=) Time for a few beers and some sleep.....take care..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 11, 2000
Subject: Re: HS Attachment to Fuse...
>>>>If you can find that #@$&% angle>>> Sometimes they hide little pieces of angle stock inside the bags with the rivets, bolts, ect. Just read the sheet that says what is in each bag and you'll probably find it. But having a few beers is a pretty good idea too. Kevin -9A hooking up those #$&% aileron pushrods & bellcrank ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: HS Attachment to Fuse...
Date: Aug 11, 2000
Kurt - You can make that piece from left over stock too. It's no real problem to rivet it onto the plate you already have riveted on. If there is a rivet or two in the way drill out the offending rivet and then re-install a longer rivet that will pass through all the parts. Make sure that you install the control stops at the correct position to give you the needed deflection of the elevators. On a lot of aircraft the elevator horns need to be trimmed on the lower rear corners to allow enough up elevator. The control stop that is a little fun is the one that gets riveted to the rear bulkhead - inside the empanage. Same proceedure - drill out the offending rivets and install the control stop with longer rivets. ----------------------------------------------------- Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA Southern Alberta ---- Original Message ----- From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 11:03 PM Subject: RV-List: HS Attachment to Fuse... > > Gang, > > Once again pulling my hair out in the shop.......!!!! In the > process of attaching the HS to the fuse on a 6A QB. Drawing 34 shows a > F-611E Spacer/Control Stop. On the drawing it shows, I believe, the F-611E > mounted under the surface which (on the quick builds) is already installed..I > think.... My neat little spacer that I made wont work on top since the > rivits for the angle below it are already in place (unless Im supposed to > drill those out?), and I dont think it goes on top.....does it? I think Im a > bit confused...it looks like vans has installed a .125 inch alum angle > underneath already, but not in the shape of the F-611E? Any other > Quickbuilders agree/disagree? It also looks like my control stop wouldn't > really stop the Elev Control arm anyway...so Im a bit confused by that also. > The plans call for the 611E to be 5 5/16 in width, but if you put it on the > fuse right where the plans show on Drawing 34 (right next to the F-611 Bars) > it should actually be about 6 1/4in in width. Hmmmmm. This along with the > lack of written instructions doesnt help.......can you tell its midnight... > =) So I guess my question is.....do I even bother with the 611E on the > quickbuild? Or is there a better way to do this? > > Thanks for you help...and thanks for letting me vent!!!!!!! > > Kurt in OKC > > oh and PS...if anyone can find that %$#&**# 1x1 1/4 angle that Im supposed > to make the F-612B out of in my Garage that would be greatly > appreciated.....=) > > Time for a few beers and some sleep.....take care..... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com>
Subject: Questions on Prop
Date: Aug 11, 2000
I have a friend that does not use the internet and he has this questions for a new prop he is considering. - Looking for feedback on a Prince composite Q tip propeller on a RV4 or 6. Performance - comparisons, opinions, factory support, problems, or catastrophic failures, number of flight - hours, etc. Any info would be appreciated. Any Help will be appreciated! Brian Chesteen RV-6 (Emp ordered) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2000
From: Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth?
Unleaded has no lead 100LL is restricted to 2 ml of tetraethyl lead per gallon The max on 100-130 is 4.6 ml Tetraethyl lead is one lead atom with four attached ethyl groups. I believe the scavenger is ethylene dibromide in stochiometric ratio. Larry Pardue wrote: > > > > >I was talking with a friend, and RV-8 builder, about running auto gas in > >Lycomings today, and maybe he's nuts, or maybe he was drinking, but he told > >be that UN-leaded auto gas has more lead in it that 100LL. > > > > Yeh, it must be one of the two. Unleaded auto gas has NO lead. 100 lowlead > has a bunch of lead. That is the one that has the deceptive name. > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > RV-6 N441LP Flying > http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: RV-4 cowling installation
Date: Aug 11, 2000
Fellow Listers: For those with a flying RV I have a question. I am about to begin installation of the cowling on my -4 (180 hp, C/S prop). Is it advisable to set the cowling slightly "low" relative to the prop spinner to allow for engine "sag" in the future? Is this really a significant problem. I have Lord engine mounts instead of the Barry mts. Thanks, Doug ================ Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Wentworth
Date: Aug 11, 2000
> Anybody bought used parts (Bendix fuel injection or anything else) from Wentworth in MSP? Satisfied? Comments? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Newspaper
>I had the 'fox outside today working on the flaperons >and a car stopped in the driveway, (nothing unusual so far). >A lady got out and had ID around her neck for The Indianapolis >Star, the local newspaper. (this is where the unusual part comes in). >She said she had seen the plane in the garage last tuesday and >that they want to do a story on it! I told her ok. She is going >to contact me about setting up an appointment. I thought I would >explain about the EAA and this list being a great help to me. >What do you guys think? Has anyone on the list been through this before? I quit speaking to mediatypes about 10 years ago after this crowning touch on mis-representing "the news:" Dee and I were out flying one cool and smooth day at lunchtime at the little airport we used to own. While landing, I noticed a large, obviously non-amateur camera set up on a tripod out in the grass and panning my landing. Needless to say I was more than extra mindful of doing a good job. By the time we taxied around to the hangar, reporter and cameraguy were hoofing it across the field to talk to us. Seems newspaper headlines for that morning spoke of "Six near misses" in Wichita over the past year. What they wanted from me was, "my reaction" to this frigntening revelation and, "what do you think the FAA should do about it?" How do you explain a very complex set of facts involving pilot responsability, limitations of government owned facilities and personel, and limits imposed by the laws of physics and the current state of the art in anti-collision technology. . . . and squeeze it into a 1 minute or less? What appeared on the 6:00 o'clock news was, "local pilot sez FAA's equipment broke and airline passengers are doomed." What they used from my interview was two sound bytes pulled out of context that appeared to support the premise of their "news blurp". Since that time, I've declined to speak to anyone from the so called "news" media. When asked, I tell them, "because you never get it right." Obviously, an in-depth feature story is different than trying to explain physics of the universe to to a wild-eyed, sensationalist reporter. BUT . . . there are still risks. I'd recommend that you agree to support the piece. Heaven knows that we can use all the positive publicity we can get. Try to extract a promise from the reporter that you are allowed to proof the FINAL article before it goes to print. The pitfalls are that while your project may be the leading particular of the article, someone ELSE may decide to provide background about a couple of accidents involving amateur built aircraft. While the intent may be well-meaning, the result could be that your wife gets piles of condolance letters suggesting that she keep your life insurance paid up, "your gonna need it lady." Amateur built aviation doesn't need that kind of exposure. The only way to avoid this is to get personally involved in the whole production effort for the piece. Left to their own devices, media reporters and writers are dismal purveyors of fact. Give the reporter a couple of issues of Sport Aviation to read. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2000
Subject: Century I wing-leveler gyro pinout
From: Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Yes , I can help. I have a $58.00 manuel I got from Century. From it we could build one. That didn't help me. I bought a Slaved-bootstraped Gyro from ASOD & wanted to use the little bug to drive my Century I autopilot, but I finally found out I can't use that part because the a/p don't have the right wistles. the pin out for the 52D75-3 (no tracker board), the -4 ( has tracker) & the 4M(tracker w/ lights) can be downloaded from www.centuryflight.com. Good people. I got the servo, gyro, harness, & connectors with the a/p used , not from Century. I assume you didn't. the CD-92 ( on the back of the gyro) shows on 79D182 drawing to be Item 40(32839),seal, connector (neoprene) Well thats no help. Drawing 30C402 shows it to be (14)28S66 (amphenol 57-30140 ) 14 pin shoes the 4 pin at the servo to be (15) 28S64 (smp 126-1427 the drawing shows a 1A526- relay box. ITs job is the use low current ( from a sw in the yoke) to handle the high current in the 2 solinoid wires tho the servo. I didn't get it so I shorted CD49 to CD48 & use a on-off switch to activate. When you get to Centtry look for diagrams, them 69D875-2 for Century I. Hope my rambling helped. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************** > > I've got a Century I Turn Cooridnator with Wing Leveler and Tracking > > cabability. Can anyone out there provide me the pin-out for this > unit. It > uses one of the older-style 14-pin "D" connectors (looks like a > minature > Centronics printer connector). My particular gyro was a Michell > manufacture, > model # 52D75-4. the -4 indicates the tracker function. The -3 was > a wing > leveler only. > > Regards, > > -Don > RV8 NJ >


August 07, 2000 - August 11, 2000

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