RV-Archive.digest.vol-ja
August 07, 2000 - August 11, 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: S-Tech 30 servo installation |
Jerry:
The S-Tec 30 comes with the installation kits, plans, etc., specifically for
an RV-6. The plans are pretty clear about where the servos go and include
all the necessary hardware. I mounted the roll servo in the right wing of
my RV-6 just outboard of the aileron bellcrank. The servo attaches to the
bellcrank via a small push rod with rod-ends on both ends. Access is
through the bellcrank inspection cover. The pitch servo mounts in the
fuselage near the elevator bellcrank just aft of the F-606 bulkhead and
attaches to it via a cable system that is included. I am sure it is a lot
easier to install as you build. But I know of one RV-6 owner who
retrofitted and told me it was pretty straight forward.
Shop around for the best prices from your avionics sources, I got mine from
Aerotronics, ask for Martin Elshire, 406-259-5006.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 5:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: S-Tech 30 servo installation
>
> Hi,
> I need some input on installing the servos for a S-Tech 30
> auto pilot.
> My RV6 is flying and I need suggestions on where to mount
> both servos.
> My RV has a manual elevator trim only
> Any tips will be apprieciated.
> Jerry
> Bryan N40JP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks |
I installed mine on the right side on the "mid-height" cross-piece under the
stiffener bar that is between the pilot and co-pilot, directly across from
where the aft throttle lever is mounted. That location seemed to be
convienient to both seats. The larger diameter jack is for the earphones
and the smaller is for the mic.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks
>Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 13:31:17 -0500
>
>
>One question plus one stupid question:
>
>1. Question: Where did you guys locate the front and rear seat headphone
>and mike jacks?
>
>2. Stupid question: Which jack (large or small diameter) is for the
>headphones?
>
>George
>RV8 N888GK (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve |
> try that first, before the rope trick...
>
Ok I Give up....could someone explain the "rope trick" for those of us
who don't know it
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
Disregard my last post.....Cy Galley explained it in a later post.
Joe Hine
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
Subject: | Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve |
Joe,
I've never personally done this, but I have a good imagination.
The object is to hone the valve guide without pulling the cyclinder off the
crank case. You can remove the valve keeper and spring, then using a fancy
knot or a short section of Chineese finger grips, tie a cord (rope) around
the valve where the keeper was, then push the valve into the cyclinder and
let it drop. The hone is slotted and allows the rope to remain in the guide
while honing. While honing, care must be taken to not drop any material
into the cyclinder or cut the rope. When done, clean the guide hole, pull
the rope to reinstall the valve. You can use the sparkplug hole to insert a
pair of chop sticks to aid in the positioning of the valve.
I'm sure this procedure has some short comings, but you should get the idea.
Tom Barnes -6 finishing.
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve
>
>
> > try that first, before the rope trick...
> >
>
> Ok I Give up....could someone explain the "rope trick" for those of us
> who don't know it
>
> Joe Hine
> RV4 C-FYTQ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jig ? |
>My shop has a 16' ceiling and so anchoring the jigs this way would be
>problematic. Are there plans for a free standing jig? Can anyone point
me to
>a site that has pictures?
Started with a free standing jig as I was in a rented apartment and
couldn't modify the ceiling. When I bought a house, I mounted it to the
wall rather than the ceiling to make it more rigid. Don't have any
pictures that show details, but could take some. Basically, had a 2x4
foot that was secured to the 4x4 uprights with 2x4 diagonal bracing.
Think the foot is 2' long, could measure when I get home.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bdubsrv6a(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jig ? |
Sam,
There is a good picture of a free standing jig on page 31 of "18 years of
RV-Ator" if you have a copy. This will at least give you a good idea of how
to construct one, hope it helps.
Bud West
RV-6a, Starting wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve |
I use a good grade of HEAVY grease or fuel lube to trap all the excess metal,
and gunk.......jolly in aurora, or.
Tom Barnes wrote:
>
> Joe,
> I've never personally done this, but I have a good imagination.
> The object is to hone the valve guide without pulling the cyclinder off the
> crank case. You can remove the valve keeper and spring, then using a fancy
> knot or a short section of Chineese finger grips, tie a cord (rope) around
> the valve where the keeper was, then push the valve into the cyclinder and
> let it drop. The hone is slotted and allows the rope to remain in the guide
> while honing. While honing, care must be taken to not drop any material
> into the cyclinder or cut the rope. When done, clean the guide hole, pull
> the rope to reinstall the valve. You can use the sparkplug hole to insert a
> pair of chop sticks to aid in the positioning of the valve.
>
> I'm sure this procedure has some short comings, but you should get the idea.
>
> Tom Barnes -6 finishing.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:05 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve
>
> >
> >
> > > try that first, before the rope trick...
> > >
> >
> > Ok I Give up....could someone explain the "rope trick" for those of us
> > who don't know it
> >
> > Joe Hine
> > RV4 C-FYTQ
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Stuck Exhaust Valve |
I agree you have a good imagination. If the valve stem is necked down and
many are one can tie a string on it. After pushing the valve into the
cylinder, (piston must be down) then push the string in also. You will need
some hooked wires. Mechanical fingers also help. After cleaning, you reach
in and pull out the string and then the valve stem. But you really don't
need the string at all. Takes a little fussing. It is easier with someone
looking while the other inserts the valve stem. A loop of safety wire around
the stem to helps support the valve is also an aid. You aren't removing much
material. Any material you remove should not be valve guide metal. Take is
why I like the valve guide cleaner and not the reamer. All cleaned material
should fall into the exhaust port and not the cylinder itself and will be
blown out when the engine starts. Generally the inner end of the guide is
better than an inch from the valve seat.
A temporary fix is to use Hoppe's #9 lead solvent for gun cleaning. Work it
into the guide with the spring off until the valve moves freely. This was
good for about 50 hours on a Cessna Skyhawk. But cleaning is the only way to
get long term free valve action.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve
>
> Joe,
> I've never personally done this, but I have a good imagination.
> The object is to hone the valve guide without pulling the cyclinder off
the
> crank case. You can remove the valve keeper and spring, then using a
fancy
> knot or a short section of Chineese finger grips, tie a cord (rope) around
> the valve where the keeper was, then push the valve into the cyclinder and
> let it drop. The hone is slotted and allows the rope to remain in the
guide
> while honing. While honing, care must be taken to not drop any material
> into the cyclinder or cut the rope. When done, clean the guide hole, pull
> the rope to reinstall the valve. You can use the sparkplug hole to insert
a
> pair of chop sticks to aid in the positioning of the valve.
>
> I'm sure this procedure has some short comings, but you should get the
idea.
>
> Tom Barnes -6 finishing.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joe Hine <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 7:05 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck Exhaust Valve
>
>
> >
> >
> > > try that first, before the rope trick...
> > >
> >
> > Ok I Give up....could someone explain the "rope trick" for those of
us
> > who don't know it
> >
> > Joe Hine
> > RV4 C-FYTQ
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
Subject: | 12V Power Outlets |
Product Report - Cig Lighter Socket
I figured most builders would want to install a 12v power outlet like a
cigarette lighter to charge batteries or run portable avionics, laptops, or
whatever. I want a couple of them up front but for awhile all I could find
at the auto parts store was too cheap. I had to look elsewhere for better
quality. I found it in a rental year 2000 Chrysler 7 passenger van.The
socket is part number 56006927 but the finishing touch is the black rubber
cap part number 04685591. This cap is labeled "Power Outlet 12V-20A" and it
is attached to a ring that sits around the base of the socket. The socket
has spade power/ground terminals. The pair with tax came to $26 Canadian
which isn't cheap but in my opinion it is the nicest looking set up for
auxiliary power.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Blah ba Blah <daviddla(at)juno.com> |
Hello, I saw your posting on moving your oil cooler from the fire wall to
the baffle. What brand of oil cooler are you using? I have a Positech
from vans and I am giving some thought to exchanging it for the Harrison
style as listed in the Vans catalog. In looking though the archives it
appears the general conscience is that the Positech will not allow air to
pass though it as well as the Harrison and hence it does not cool as
well. I am building the baffles now and I would like any input ,
especially from anyone who has changed from a Positech to a Harrison
without any other changes to influence the difference in performance.
David RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Screens on NACA vents |
Hi,
I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the
bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a
perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live.
Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs out?
If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on
the airflow to the backseat?
Thanks,
Ed Perry
80809
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Blade style pitot tube |
I've also seen these style pitot's installed on the Katana 2 seat trainer
aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: 12V Power Outlets |
Norman Hunger wrote:
>
>
> Product Report - Cig Lighter Socket
>
> I figured most builders would want to install a 12v power outlet like a
> cigarette lighter to charge batteries or run portable avionics, laptops, or
> whatever. I want a couple of them up front but for awhile all I could find
> at the auto parts store was too cheap. I had to look elsewhere for better
> quality. I found it in a rental year 2000 Chrysler 7 passenger van.The
> socket is part number 56006927 but the finishing touch is the black rubber
> cap part number 04685591. This cap is labeled "Power Outlet 12V-20A" and it
> is attached to a ring that sits around the base of the socket. The socket
> has spade power/ground terminals. The pair with tax came to $26 Canadian
> which isn't cheap but in my opinion it is the nicest looking set up for
> auxiliary power.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
I agree a 12v power outlet is a nice touch. Hit this link and scroll
down the page to see the outlet in 399SB:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel4.html
Cost with plastic cover, mounting bracket, and spade lugs was about
$6.00 at the local Autozone.
Sam Buchanan (with fully charged cell phone)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Free Standing Jig ? |
Sam:
I built my jig from the end pieces of a "Gorilla Rack" model GR7200 heavy
duty storage shelving unit. They make a lighter duty model as well, but I
would suggest the heavy duty one since it is very stout. It stands 6' high,
and comes with steel cross-pieces and shelving. It is rated to hold 2500lb
per shelf. I stored the cross pieces and shelving and made my own
cross-pieces ( two 2x4's glued and screwed, with a 1x6 work surface screwed
on top) as per Vans jig plans. I mounted 2x4 supports under the legs (with
some 1x6 braces) to give support toward the front, since it is front heavy
in use. So far, I have used it for my emp. with no problems. If the weight
of the wing causes any instability I can bolt it to the floor but I really
think that will not be necessary. Plus, after I'm done building, I can put
the original cross pieces and shelving in it and use it to hold all my
ruined parts!
I don't have a web site, but would be happy to e-mail pics if you are
interested. I bought the rack at Home Depot for $99, and added about $20
worth of wood.
Russ Christopher
RV-8 Emp. in SoCal Hi-Desert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Cherroff
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 12:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Free Standing Jig ?
I've seen a lot of pictures on the various constructors web pages of the
assembly jig that is used during construction of all of the surfaces. In
every
case the jig is apparently attached to the ceiling.
My shop has a 16' ceiling and so anchoring the jigs this way would be
problematic. Are there plans for a free standing jig? Can anyone point me
to
a site that has pictures?
Thanks,
--Sam
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Cinelogic, Co.
(818)772-4777
fax 772-4733
sam(at)videoassist.com
http://www.videoassist.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
Mike Thompson wrote:
>
>
> Would be good advertising for them. We had a recent first flight
> fixed- pitch (72FM 83") 180 HP (new from Van's) 6A blow by his chase
> plane - a constant speed 180 HP 6A. Out climbed _and_ out ran it.
>
> Of course the chase plane had two aboard, full fuel and all that nice
> Imron paint (though fully faired w/ one-piece pants). Unknown empty
> weight.
> The new bird was in primer, had (of course) one aboard, half fuel and
> no leg fairings. Empty weight, 1045 pounds (I helped do the W&B).
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
>
My guess would be that if it was a first flight that it was a pretty
shallow climb out. If you climb out shallow with a fixed pitch and let
the rpms build to develop horsepower it will climb as well as a
constant speed. Now take the same two airplanes and climb at best angle
and the constant speed will win, no contest. Also at lower altitudes
a constant speed really has no advantage speed wise. It is when
you get to higher altitudes that a constant speed will be much more
efficient and have better fuel economy than a fixed pitch.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Reece" <ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00 |
BCar-
Might try contacting Finn Lassen. He's an RV-3 builder in Florida that may
know the whereabouts of local RV-3? Worth a shot?
Good luck! mailto:finnlassen(at)netzero.net
ANYONE STILL OUT THERE IN RV3LIST LAND? STARTING TO GET DISCOURAGED!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Wichita KS
----- Original Message -----
From: <BCar6025(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 8:31 AM
Subject: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00
> --> RV3-List message posted by: BCar6025(at)aol.com
>
> Like to buy a flying, and licensed, RV-3A, or an RV-3 with the Phlogiston
(not sure of spelling) spar. Need radio and mode C, therefore need
electrical system. Have budgeted up to 20K. I'm in South Florida but have
airline pass.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcAA6GL1dQs5P1imRJ2D/WZOWoFz+w=
Thread-Topic: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | whooohooo! First flight N244BJ |
Listers,
RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana
airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be flying
after working on it for 6+ years.
I have been waiting on the weather to clear for the past few days, and
tonight I couldn't have asked for better conditions. Sky was clear and
no winds.
Empty weight 1076 with O-360-A1A, Hartzell prop, full gyro panel, CD
player and a heavy paint job.
I departed at 7:15 this evening and flew for 25 minutes as it was
starting to get dark. On climout, I saw my #3 CHT climb to 430 and the
#1 CHT was 200. Temps stabilized when I leveled out at 6000 feet, but
#1 went down to 175. Outside air temp was 78 degrees. I am going to
experiment with some stainless tape in front of #1 when I fly again.
Oil temp was 185 in cruise. Right wing was a bit heavy, but very
managable, with 1/4" of aileron deflection to maintain level flight. I
had a bit more fuel in the right tank.
I was loitering at 115 knots running 13-15" inches and 2300 RPM. I
went to 23 squared and saw 160 knots on the GPS. The wheels chriped a
few times when I landed but I got her back down in one piece. I was
trying for a two-pointer and was a little fast.
Stay tuned for more data and pictures.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 .5 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Screens on NACA vents |
In a message dated 8/7/00 10:16:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
edperry64(at)netzero.net writes:
<< Hi,
I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the
bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a
perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live.
Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs out?
If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on
the airflow to the backseat?
Thanks,
Ed Perry
80809 >>
Ed,
I've got some of the same concerns regarding bugs getting into the fuselage
mounted vents on my RV-6 (A swarm of hornets pouring from the vents on
takeoff would make things interesting). I plan to make some removable plugs
to stick in the vents when the airplane is on the ground and/or hangared.
Based on my old education (or lack thereof) in fluid dynamics, putting a
screen over your vent would keep out bugs and a large part of the air too.
However, if you wanted to try it, you could use nylon mesh and see how you
like the resulting airflow. If you don't like your results, you could spend
a few minutes under the plane with an x-acto knife and cut the screen away.
If you do this, share your results...
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube - correction on cheapest price |
Yesterday I posted a message saying that Wicks had a lower price than Gretz
Aero on the PH502-12CR heated pitot tube. Apparently, I had the price
written down for the older style AN5812 from Gretz which has been replaced
by the PH502-12CR. The PH502-12CR is less expensive and due to the constant
resistance heater is also better (no current surge when switched on). At
$135 including shipping, Gretz now has the lowest price that I have found on
the PH502-12CR (except for Wick's -10% Oshkosh special discount - but it's
too late for that now). My apologies to Warren Gretz.
P.S.: The mounting kit from Gretz Aero is very well made.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Flaps
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
I just got one from Wicks. The price for the pitot tube was less than the
price from Gretz. However, I did order the mounting kit from Gretz.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Subject: | Re: Retractable Pitot Tube??? |
Based on the fact that he and a friend are supposedly doing 200MPH on 160HP
by one-upping each other on speed mods, I'd speculate the answer is SPEED.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Retractable Pitot Tube???
>
> > Mr. Steppling said it was about a 12" long
> > steel
> > tube mounted in an internal plastic block at the wing/wingtip
> > junction
> > at the leading edge of the wing- when shoved into the wing there is
> > just
> > enough protruding to insert a small plastic "remove before flight"
> > plug.
> > It pulls out about 9-10" and a magnet on the inner end of it's
> > mounting block holds it in position.
>
>
> Guess I'll be the one to demonstrate my ignorance and ask...
>
> Why?
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage (and per-plan pitot 'cause I don't know any better)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Subject: | Re: S-Tech 30 servo installation |
Additionally the STEC servo mounting design was done on a FLYING RV. So it
is feasible to do. As mentioned, it is easier to do before the wing is fully
closed though.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: S-Tech 30 servo installation
>
> Jerry:
>
> The S-Tec 30 comes with the installation kits, plans, etc., specifically
for
> an RV-6. The plans are pretty clear about where the servos go and include
> all the necessary hardware. I mounted the roll servo in the right wing of
> my RV-6 just outboard of the aileron bellcrank. The servo attaches to the
> bellcrank via a small push rod with rod-ends on both ends. Access is
> through the bellcrank inspection cover. The pitch servo mounts in the
> fuselage near the elevator bellcrank just aft of the F-606 bulkhead and
> attaches to it via a cable system that is included. I am sure it is a lot
> easier to install as you build. But I know of one RV-6 owner who
> retrofitted and told me it was pretty straight forward.
>
> Shop around for the best prices from your avionics sources, I got mine
from
> Aerotronics, ask for Martin Elshire, 406-259-5006.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
> RV-6, Fuselage
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerryb" <jerryb(at)point.total-web.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 5:11 PM
> Subject: RV-List: S-Tech 30 servo installation
>
>
> >
> > Hi,
> > I need some input on installing the servos for a S-Tech 30
> > auto pilot.
> > My RV6 is flying and I need suggestions on where to mount
> > both servos.
> > My RV has a manual elevator trim only
> > Any tips will be apprieciated.
> > Jerry
> > Bryan N40JP
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00 |
i am here in rv 3 land
butch rv3
n161bt
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Hi All,
seeings its a bit quiet heres my question, what sort of
fuel economy are we all getting, just curious.
Thanks
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mdivan(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Screens on NACA vents |
Screens will decrease air flow by 50%.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of edperry64
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 6:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Screens on NACA vents
Hi,
I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the
bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a
perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live.
Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs out?
If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on
the airflow to the backseat?
Thanks,
Ed Perry
80809
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Installing Rudder Tip Problem... |
When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you guys
are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the
rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet
interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the
second rivet.
HELP!
- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Screens on NACA vents |
A properly designed removable cover would solve the problem.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 80121
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike <mdivan(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Screens on NACA vents
>
> Screens will decrease air flow by 50%.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of edperry64
> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 6:52 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Screens on NACA vents
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the
> bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be a
> perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live.
>
> Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs
out?
> If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas on
> the airflow to the backseat?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Perry
> 80809
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: STD-???? hardware |
> After using fine thread hardware , (AN,MS,NAS) through the airframe I run
> across the coarse threaded stuff on my Lyc. The parts book (PC-20302) for
> my 0-320-D3G refers to a lot of STD parts that can be almost anything.
> Now if you try & buy some from the ASS catalog it don't mention them.
>
> Are this Lycoming? Is it a standard like AN? Are they similar to Grade 8
> at the hardware store?
Didn't see any public responses to this one. I would like to know the answer
to this too. I believe they are some industrial grade. Sacremento Skyranch
would probably have the answer if not the hardware for sale. I'd be
interested in any other info about it too including where to get things like
coarse head drilled head bolts, drilled shaft bolts, castellated, nyloc or
otherwise nuts, studs, etc.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> > In January an "A D Marzo" posted a site where someone was selling a data
> > plate for RV's that had a place for S/N, builder's name, etc. but it
also
> > had a nice etched RV as well . . . the site showing the plate was
> > http://members.aol.com/brokenspar/RVplate.jpb
The Van's Air Force data plates are made by Ted Blakely of Boring Oregon,
and are available through outside sources right now, but Van's will be
carrying them very soon. Once they get settled in at their new site in
Aurora OR (about a week from now) they'll have them for $12.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Van's Aircraft closing for three days |
Hi Listers,
The following info was posted within the last couple of days on Van's
website.
>>ITS MOVING TIME ON THE OLD VANSTEAD..
Yes, our new facility at the Aurora, Oregon airport is finally ready and we
are beginning the large job of
moving our complete manufacturing, office and flight operations to our new
home.
In order to complete this rather arduous task in the shortest period
possible,
VANS AIRCRAFT WILL BE CLOSED FOR BUSINESS ON AUGUST 9, 10, 11.
We will not be answering the phones and, Web orders dated on, or after
August 08, 2000, will be not be download and processed until August 14,
2000
We will re-open at our new location 14401 NE Keil Rd, Aurora, OR 97002 on
Monday, August 14, at 8:00 a.m.
The new phone, and fax numbers are:
Voice phone: 503-678-6545
Fax: 503-678-6560
A note about our web site:
I'm packing up and moving too. Please be patient as I make the necessary
address,
and other changes to our web pages, to reflect the move to our new
facility.<<
Best wishes,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB 60435 (Kit arrives in about 6 days!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP" <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil> |
Subject: | Re: RE: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Van's says about 25 mpg. After four years and 300 hours in my RV3 I've
never calculated it. A typical 45 minute flight for me includes adding 5.5
gals of gas, a leisurely 10 min climb to 9,000 feet or so and then throttle
back and spend the next 30 minutes doing low impact aerobatics flips and
flops until I'm back at pattern altitude. The gas gage usually reads about
the same as before I added the fuel.
Question? I have a cruise prop I believe, a Sterba 68X72 that yields about
2750 max level rpm at almost any altitude. I seem to spend a lot of time
running in the 2200 rpm range. I here others keep there O320s spun up to
2600 and higher and that may be the best for the engine. Am I not doing the
best for my engine by not running the higher rpms?
Gray Linzel
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Stewart [mailto:bruce@triton-dive.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:26 AM
To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
Hi All,
seeings its a bit quiet heres my question, what sort of fuel
economy are we all getting, just curious.
Thanks
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Screens on NACA vents |
> edperry64(at)netzero.net writes:
>
> << Hi,
>
> I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to
> install the vent in the
> bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems
> as though it would be a
> perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live.
>
> Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the
> skin to keep the bugs out?
> If so how was the airflow affected? If not does
> anybody have any ideas on
> the airflow to the backseat?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Perry
> 80809
The screens on the NACA vents of my RV-6 (side of
fuselage) are epoxied on where the hose attaches.
LOTs of airflow even after 640+ hours. If it did not
work, it would have been removed a long time ago. It
gets hot in the desert near LA.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ |
Bob,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Almost ready to bolt Wings)
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: starting the FAB |
<< On the bendix
servo most people have the mixture and the throttle reversed >>
This comment is interesting to me since I'm at the point of installing the
Bendix servo on my IO360-B1B. I spent some time scratching my head about the
installation of the servo last night. The little bit of info I have on
installation (a few sketches) is contradictory, so I'm a little confused
about how this thing should go on. Does the throttle arm go on the left or
right (looking forward from the cockpit) ?
Keith (scratching my head...again)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks |
On the Rv-4..... I went on the right side under the roll-bar area on a "z"
bracket that was there allready. Main reasoning was to lessen the tangle of
wires I would trip over when exiting & entering the aircraft. Also, hanging-up
the headsets would lend itself on the right side too; less cluter on the right
side than left side. I placed my intercom there too because the passanger &
Pilot could easily reach the spot .
akroguy(at)hotmail.com on 08/07/2000 03:16:26 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Mic & Phone Jacks
>
>One question plus one stupid question:
>
>1. Question: Where did you guys locate the front and rear seat headphone
>and mike jacks?
>
>2. Stupid question: Which jack (large or small diameter) is for the
>headphones?
>
>George
>RV8 N888GK (reserved)
>
George,
I put the jacks for both seats on the right side, under the top rail. The
front seat jacks are in the aft face of the 804(b?) bulkhead and the rear
seat jacks are in the 806. The rear jacks could also be placed facing up
and in the armrest.
I've already forgotten which one is for the headphone! I think it's the
larger one. Anyway, ground both shells via a WIRED connection to your radio
ground bus. Don't rely on the airframe contact for headphone ground as this
*may* induce a ground loop and resultant noise. Use a fiber or plastic
grommet type washer to eliminate metal to metal contact of both headphone
AND mic jacks to the metal airframe. If your intercom or radio does not
include two additional fiber washers you can find them at any electronic
parts supply store.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
Subject: | Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
>Mike Thompson wrote:
>This could get interesting! I wonder if Sensenich would sponsor some fuel
(Ed?).
Of course we would be interested! Send me a proposed test plan off line and
we (Sensenich) will cough up the fuel $$$. I may even buy lunch if I
wouldn't be accused of slanting the test results!
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00 |
hi rob,
haven't been flying much fianlly finished the house that we bought 6 months ago.now
the weather is not to good. i had a problem with the computer and lost everyone's
address. the rv is still flying great
keep in touch
dan carley
rv3a-148cw
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 12V Power Outlets |
Found mine at the marine/boat store. Was made of stainless steel & had a rubber
cap. Cost....5 or 6 bucks with tax.
nhunger(at)sprint.ca on 08/07/2000 09:40:11 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: 12V Power Outlets
Product Report - Cig Lighter Socket
I figured most builders would want to install a 12v power outlet like a
cigarette lighter to charge batteries or run portable avionics, laptops, or
whatever. I want a couple of them up front but for awhile all I could find
at the auto parts store was too cheap. I had to look elsewhere for better
quality. I found it in a rental year 2000 Chrysler 7 passenger van.The
socket is part number 56006927 but the finishing touch is the black rubber
cap part number 04685591. This cap is labeled "Power Outlet 12V-20A" and it
is attached to a ring that sits around the base of the socket. The socket
has spade power/ground terminals. The pair with tax came to $26 Canadian
which isn't cheap but in my opinion it is the nicest looking set up for
auxiliary power.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jig ? |
Look for the posts on using a ladder and folding metal saw horses. Cheap,
portable & useable when the project is over. Home-depo has real slick folding
metal saw horses that fold up real small. I could park my Ford Explorer on them
when opened up. These saw horses ( 21 bucks) and a 8 foot or 10 foot extention
ladder is what I reccomend.
Bdubsrv6a(at)aol.com on 08/07/2000 09:21:16 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Free Standing Jig ?
Sam,
There is a good picture of a free standing jig on page 31 of "18 years of
RV-Ator" if you have a copy. This will at least give you a good idea of how
to construct one, hope it helps.
Bud West
RV-6a, Starting wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... |
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>
>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you
guys
>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the
>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet
>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the
>second rivet.
>
>HELP!
>
>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp.
>
Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get the
required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at
once.
Tommy
6A on the gear
Ridgetop, TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Screens on NACA vents |
In a message dated 8/7/00 10:09:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< I've got some of the same concerns regarding bugs getting into the
fuselage
mounted vents on my RV-6 (A swarm of hornets pouring from the vents on
takeoff would make things interesting). I plan to make some removable plugs
to stick in the vents when the airplane is on the ground and/or hangared.
Based on my old education (or lack thereof) in fluid dynamics, putting a
screen over your vent would keep out bugs and a large part of the air too. >>
Right you are. Get some non-hornet created honeycomb (I used aluminum but
aramid should work too) from your compost builder friends and place a 2"
diameter piece of it in the cylindrical portion of Van's standard scoops.
Other shapes are easy to make. Just band saw oversized and disc sand to
final shape. Hold in place with your favorite adhesive (pro-seal?).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ |
--- Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana
> airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be
> flying
> after working on it for 6+ years.
Congratulations!
Can't wait!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-List (E-mail)"
Subject: | Platte Nuts, Daaaa, Bingo!! |
Hi listers,
After revisiting the plans, manual and with your help, the light finally
came on for me. When helping with questions, don't assume the lister (me)
has a brain. Never having used plate nuts (learned to spell it too) I was
assuming the main hole should be drilled big enough for the actual body of
the plate nut to slide through (think this came from my old modeling days
using blind nuts). I now understand that usually the nut is mounted flush
with the structure and the main hole just has to be big enough for the bolts
to pass through before seating in the plate nut. Thank goodness I just
slowed down and ask for help, which saved me from drilling the rudder horn
and, spar and rib to large. Thanks Again!!
Jack
RV8 rudder
Des Moines, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Flight Review |
Brian,
A CFI is an official check airman, whatever that means, and signs the flight
review.
When I do an endorsement such as a conventional gear check out, I include a
flight review endorsement if the airman wants, just to avoid confusion.
Bob
Fairings Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
Subject: | Re: Screens on NACA vents |
I used fiberglass screen door material on mine. Cut it slightly larger than
the end of the vent that goes into the scat tube, lay it over the hole, and
slide the scat tube over it to hold it. No mess, and easy to remove if
necessary.
I don't know about impeding airflow, as I've never flown without it, but
there is plenty of airflow at taxi speeds (of course this is on a 6a with
the vents in the prop slipstream) and at cruise it will blow your hat (and
some of your hair) off.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I'm finishing up my wings and am getting ready to install the vent in the
> bottom of the right wing. Looking at it, it seems as though it would be
a
> perfect place for unwanted flying insects to live.
>
> Has anybody put a screen between the vent and the skin to keep the bugs
out?
> If so how was the airflow affected? If not does anybody have any ideas
on
> the airflow to the backseat?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Subject: | vent screens, fuel economy, and |
I installed screen on my RV-4 vents and everything worked fine. Don't put
them between the vent and the skin though... that will destroy the airflow.
Put a piece higher up in the vent. Mine was installed where the vent
connected to the hose. You could barely see it from the outside. Worked
fine.
Fuel economy with an O-320-E3D, wood prop, RV-4 running 100LL here in the
midwest was always 7.5 to 8 gph, usually closer to 7.5.
When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how
you guys are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of
the rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet
interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the
second rivet.
Dang, no good advice here. Everybody does this the first time around.
Wiggle both pop rivets in place, pull each half way, wiggle a little more,
then set one, wiggle, so on. Worked for mine. You'll remember to offset
these rivets on the other control surfaces....right?
You will have problems like this throughout the construction of your
project. :-( Always remember to think about what is behind that hole you're
about to drill BEFORE you drill it. This is particularly important around
the spars.
BTW, I fill all my pop rivets with auto body seam sealer. I use the
aluminum colored stuff. You dab a little in the hole and wipe off te excess
with solvent dampened rag. Works great, no sanding necessary, and seals out
water. You can paint right over it or it looks fine next to bare aluminum.
FWIW, I don't worry about the stems being visible as someone pointed out.
I'm pretty careful, but even I wouldn't worry about that one. I mean, what
a preflight.... first check the oil, then check all the pop rivet stems.
Ack!
Vince Frazier
Harmon Rocket II
N314VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html <-----Rocket website
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
Subject: | Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
>What sort of fuel economy are we all getting.....
O-320, 160hp: 7-7.5gph at 2400 and 18-20 inches, EGT 25 degrees rich of
peak, 5-8000 feet altitude. At that RPM, true of 171mph all day long
(RV-4). 22.5 -24.5mpg: better than your SUV.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flight Review |
Hi Guys,
Actually, a CFI is not a check airman. A check airman is an employee of the FAA
or an airline who is authorized to conduct flight checks.
A CFI's privilege endorsement (tailwheel, complex, high performance, high
altitude) is not a substitute for a BFR. To my knowledge, the only substitutes
for a formal BFR are: 1) a flight test (passed) with either an FAA inspector, a
DE, or the chief instructor of a Part 141 school with examining authority; and
2) a completed and signed-off phase of the Wings program, which includes the one
hour of ground and one hour of flight required by the actual BFR. If any other
substitutes exist, I'd like to learn of them.
Regards,
Ken Balch, CFI, etc.
RV-8 #81125
Ashland, MA
cockpit stuff
Imfairings(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Brian,
> A CFI is an official check airman, whatever that means, and signs the flight
> review.
> When I do an endorsement such as a conventional gear check out, I include a
> flight review endorsement if the airman wants, just to avoid confusion.
> Bob
> Fairings Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chief86249(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: STD-???? hardware |
There is an outfit called (I think) Plating Unlimited that has an FAA-PMA
approved process for replating all your old hardware. It cost only $5 per
pound. This is much cheaper than purchasing all new hardware. As soon as I
get the phone number I'll post it here.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)exmsft.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Cool question... I'm eager to see what others have as well.
My setup:
RV-3A
O-320 160hp
Warnke 72x70
unfiltered ram air aspirated
No non-stock aero mods
Here are the rough numbers I use for cross country. I'm putting a RMI fuel
flow meter in today (coincidence). ASAP I'll have real numbers.
Minimum staight and level power setting is 1550rpm at 85mph.
1600 rpm 100mph My approch power setting
2000 rpm 140mph @ 5.2gph (Based on consumed fuel for a 2 hr cross country at
2000rpm and 0 Pres. Alt)
2300 rpm 170mph @ ~7.0 gph
2400 rpm 180mph @ 8.0 gph (Based on consumed fuel for a 2 hr cross country
at 2400rpm and 9k Pres. Alt.)
2500 rpm 190mph @ ~8.5 gph
Like I said, these are half baked numbers. Once I have the fuel flow meter,
I'm going to do a full test suite with a matrix for presure altude and power
setting.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 10:26 PM
Subject: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> seeings its a bit quiet heres my question, what sort of
> fuel economy are we all getting, just curious.
>
> Thanks
> Bruce
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I responded off line to this question, but on reflection thought others
would like to see my results too.
Rv6A 160HP Lycoming, Warnke prop - results from Matronics Fuel Scan Lite
model:
2,300RPM 8,000-ft 7.0 to 7.1 GPH 175TAS
2,050RPM 8,000-ft 5.0 GPH 165 TAS
Full Power take off a bit over 10GPH with electric boost pump on (creates a
small error) - when pump is off drops to somewhat over 9.5 or so
Operating off a 7,500-ft airport.
FWIW John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: starting the FAB |
Hi Keith,
As viewed from the cockpit forward, the throttle arm is on the right of
the Bendix throttle body. The mixture control rotation can be confused
because the drawings in the lycoming manuals seems to indicate the wrong
direction for R (rich) or ICO, idle cut off. Look at the throttle body
mixture arm and you'll get the rotation correct.
Tom Brown RV4 flying
RV4Brown(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles Chandler <ylcrc(at)TTACS.TTU.EDU> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00 |
I'm out here in RV3 land too. I think we are all so quiet because it is
impossible to describe the thrill of flying such a great airplane. And we
assume all the other RV3 pilots have experienced it for themselves. The
other thing pilot's usually put on lists like this is information about
problems they have been having with their planes. But my RV3 hardly ever
gives me any problems. I've had the notorious landing gear shimmy, but
greatly reduced that by balancing the wheel pants. I've had the wooden
propellor get loose and now make sure the bolts are checked and tightened
periodically.
I don't respond to requests to buy an RV3 because I don't want to sell
mine and hope I never do.
Don't get discouraged. We can still communicate when something comes up
we need information about.
Chuck
N893FS
Lubbock, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcABEFgO/YYEVy4zQBSTUZvX/B15lQAO3WiA
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | STD-???? hardware |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: STD-???? hardware
Now that I'm thinking about it, all the bolts on my Lyc have LE embossed
on the heads...but I'd like to know where to get some more if I need
them.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 .5 :-)hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson [mailto:randallh(at)home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: STD-???? hardware
> After using fine thread hardware , (AN,MS,NAS) through the airframe I
run
> across the coarse threaded stuff on my Lyc. The parts book (PC-20302)
for
> my 0-320-D3G refers to a lot of STD parts that can be almost anything.
> Now if you try & buy some from the ASS catalog it don't mention them.
>
> Are this Lycoming? Is it a standard like AN? Are they similar to Grade
8
> at the hardware store?
Didn't see any public responses to this one. I would like to know the
answer
to this too. I believe they are some industrial grade. Sacremento
Skyranch
would probably have the answer if not the hardware for sale. I'd be
interested in any other info about it too including where to get things
like
coarse head drilled head bolts, drilled shaft bolts, castellated, nyloc
or
otherwise nuts, studs, etc.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004805445@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Tue,
08 Aug 2000 08:27:24.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: | whooohooo! First flight N244BJ |
Well done, Bob! We're all looking forward to hearing more about your bird's performance.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, waiting for FAA inspection
> ** Original Subject: RV-List: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
> ** Original Sender: "Bob Japundza"
> ** Original Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 20:49:13 -0700
> ** Original Message follows...
>
>
> Listers,
>
> RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana
> airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be flying
> after working on it for 6+ years.
>
> I have been waiting on the weather to clear for the past few days, and
> tonight I couldn't have asked for better conditions. Sky was clear and
> no winds.
>
> Empty weight 1076 with O-360-A1A, Hartzell prop, full gyro panel, CD
> player and a heavy paint job.
>
> I departed at 7:15 this evening and flew for 25 minutes as it was
> starting to get dark. On climout, I saw my #3 CHT climb to 430 and the
> #1 CHT was 200. Temps stabilized when I leveled out at 6000 feet, but
> #1 went down to 175. Outside air temp was 78 degrees. I am going to
> experiment with some stainless tape in front of #1 when I fly again.
> Oil temp was 185 in cruise. Right wing was a bit heavy, but very
> managable, with 1/4" of aileron deflection to maintain level flight. I
> had a bit more fuel in the right tank.
>
> I was loitering at 115 knots running 13-15" inches and 2300 RPM. I
> went to 23 squared and saw 160 knots on the GPS. The wheels chriped a
> few times when I landed but I got her back down in one piece. I was
> trying for a two-pointer and was a little fast.
>
> Stay tuned for more data and pictures.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 .5 hours
>
>
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Sensenich 72FM 85"pitch |
>
> >Mike Thompson wrote:
> >This could get interesting! I wonder if Sensenich would sponsor
> some fuel
> (Ed?).
>
> Of course we would be interested! Send me a proposed test plan off
> line and
> we (Sensenich) will cough up the fuel $$$. I may even buy lunch if I
> wouldn't be accused of slanting the test results!
>
> Ed Zercher
This could be a project. Laird Owens is running a new 72FM 83", has
talked of going up to San Jose where Garry Legare
has offered him the use of a new 72FM 85".
Wouldn't it be interesting if Ed could get a 72FM 86" loaner sent to
Garry?
Three different fixed pitch props tested for takeoff distance, climb
rates, 4-way GPS speeds - all on the same airframe, the same day and
flown by the same pilot.
Can you say "consistency"?
Sounds like a Sport Aviation article - Kitplanes, too. Take plenty of
pictures, guys!
Now, rotate these props though Laird's RV-6 _and_ an RV-8...
Primarily, though, for Sensenich, we could have a constant speed -6 w/
O-320 (Gary Sobek) and CS O-360 (who was that volunteer?) to provide
comparison numbers.
First time in a long time I wished I still lived on the West Coast...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Hi All,
When I had the O-290 in my RV-3, I normally flew at at 165 mph true ias
between 9,500' and 11,500' for cross country flights. I frequently flew with
another RV-3, N51RV, which was powered by an IO-320. We consistantly burned
6.0 gph.
The LOM M332A engine (245 cu.in.) at 160 mph true ias burns 5.0 gph, and at
175-180 mph true ias at 9,500' burns 6.2 gph.
I am in the process of completely rewiring my RV-3. I am installing a
Microair 760 COM and a fuelscan (Matronics) fuel flow meter. I thought I
might find a sweet spot in fuel consumption by varying the mp and rpm at a
given air speed.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV (Why does an annual take more than a year?) :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)exmsft.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
The engine must be run at higher power setting periodically to evaporate
water that builds up in the oil. Lycoming does have a recomended regiment
and they've even posted it online
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/frequency_of_flight.htm
l
I personally like to run my oil up to 90-110C for about an hour at least
once every two weeks. This is just my own rule of thumb.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP <Gray.Linzel(at)pope.af.mil>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 4:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Linzel G . Civ - 43CES/CECP"
>
> Van's says about 25 mpg. After four years and 300 hours in my RV3 I've
> never calculated it. A typical 45 minute flight for me includes adding
5.5
> gals of gas, a leisurely 10 min climb to 9,000 feet or so and then
throttle
> back and spend the next 30 minutes doing low impact aerobatics flips and
> flops until I'm back at pattern altitude. The gas gage usually reads
about
> the same as before I added the fuel.
>
> Question? I have a cruise prop I believe, a Sterba 68X72 that yields
about
> 2750 max level rpm at almost any altitude. I seem to spend a lot of time
> running in the 2200 rpm range. I here others keep there O320s spun up to
> 2600 and higher and that may be the best for the engine. Am I not doing
the
> best for my engine by not running the higher rpms?
>
> Gray Linzel
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Stewart [mailto:bruce@triton-dive.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:26 AM
> To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> seeings its a bit quiet heres my question, what sort of
fuel
> economy are we all getting, just curious.
> Thanks
> Bruce
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Welcome,
Sounds like you have a great place to build! You might try to order your
kit with credit card by phone. But from an earlier post I believe they will
be closed from Wed through Sun to move. Happy Building !
Jack
RV8 rudder
Des Moines, IA
Jack Textor
President
PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
604 Locust, Suite 516
Des Moines, IA 50309-3720
515-243-7687 wk
515-243-3350 fax
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... |
That doesn't work with the pre-punched skins, Tommy. I didn't get to vote
on where the holes were! :) They are directly in line with each other.
Still looking for help on this one...
- Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
>To: RV-List
>Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>
>
>>
>>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you
>guys
>>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the
>>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet
>>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the
>>second rivet.
>>
>>HELP!
>>
>>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp.
>>
>
>Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get the
>required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at
>once.
>
>Tommy
>6A on the gear
>Ridgetop, TN
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)exmsft.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Hey Less,
A couple questions... What's the sea level power altitude for the LOM?
And what alitude do you figure you get maximum fuel efficiency? Also how is
overboost on takeoff?
You seem to be getting significantly better fuel efficiency than an O-320
which is an incredibly efficient engine. I'm wondering what factors cause
this.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: <LessDragProd(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
> --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
>
> Hi All,
>
> When I had the O-290 in my RV-3, I normally flew at at 165 mph true ias
> between 9,500' and 11,500' for cross country flights. I frequently flew
with
> another RV-3, N51RV, which was powered by an IO-320. We consistantly
burned
> 6.0 gph.
>
> The LOM M332A engine (245 cu.in.) at 160 mph true ias burns 5.0 gph, and
at
> 175-180 mph true ias at 9,500' burns 6.2 gph.
>
> I am in the process of completely rewiring my RV-3. I am installing a
> Microair 760 COM and a fuelscan (Matronics) fuel flow meter. I thought I
> might find a sweet spot in fuel consumption by varying the mp and rpm at a
> given air speed.
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV (Why does an annual take more than a year?) :-(
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> Hey every one, I just want to introduce myself. My name is Brian
Chesteen,
> Electro Mechanical Engineer living in Newport, Tn.
[snip]
> Today I am sending in the order form for the emp kit. Does anyone know if
> you can fax this thing in to save a few days?
Welcome Brian!
Normally you could probably save some time FAXing your order, however Vans
is in the middle of their big move right now and that will put a crimp in
things. According to their web page, their phones are down today through
August 14.
The details, including their new phone/fax/address, are on their web page at
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/moving.htm.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | 12V Power Outlets |
Hi all,
I have my Cig Lighter mounted out of sight just behind my instrument panel. One
of the things I use it for is to tap into the 12V system to float charge the
battery. That way you don't have to dive under the panel to pull the battery
cover every time. I wouldn't use it to charge a dead battery though.
Laird RV-6 - had my 1st "sock straight out" 90deg crosswind takeoff sunday :-0
SoCal
Found mine at the marine/boat store. Was made of stainless steel & had a rubber
cap. Cost....5 or 6 bucks with tax.
Product Report - Cig Lighter Socket
I figured most builders would want to install a 12v power outlet like a
cigarette lighter to charge batteries or run portable avionics, laptops, or
whatever. I want a couple of them up front but for awhile all I could find
at the auto parts store was too cheap. I had to look elsewhere for better
quality. I found it in a rental year 2000 Chrysler 7 passenger van.The
socket is part number 56006927 but the finishing touch is the black rubber
cap part number 04685591. This cap is labeled "Power Outlet 12V-20A" and it
is attached to a ring that sits around the base of the socket. The socket
has spade power/ground terminals. The pair with tax came to $26 Canadian
which isn't cheap but in my opinion it is the nicest looking set up for
auxiliary power.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
In a message dated 08/08/2000 8:52:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bruceme(at)exmsft.com writes:
> Hey Less,
>
> A couple questions... What's the sea level power altitude for the LOM?
The LOM M332A produces 115 hp at 2550 rpm and 29.5" mp, and 140 hp 2700 rpm
and 35" mp. These are both sea level power settings.
> And what alitude do you figure you get maximum fuel efficiency? Also how
is
> overboost on takeoff?
The supercharger provides an additional 5" mp for takeoff and climb (5 min.
limited).
> You seem to be getting significantly better fuel efficiency than an O-320
> which is an incredibly efficient engine. I'm wondering what factors cause
> this.
The LOM engine was designed in 1959. It is a dry sump engine with hemi
heads, an overhead cam, fuel injected and supercharged. The fuel flow sucks
(pun intended) with the supercharger running.
> Bruce Meacham
I don't have the fastest RV-3 (196 mph true ias at 7,500' density altitude),
but I believe I have the cleanest RV-3. That helps the fuel flow numbers.
BTW my full throttle unsupercharged Vne critical altitude is above 1,500'.
(I can acheive the 210 mph ias Vne in level flight at, or below, that
altitude.)
When I get the new instrument panel and wiring installed, I plan to get Vne
critical altitude numbers both with, and without, the supercharger engaged.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... |
If you haven't pulled either rivet, I would shorten the shanks. If you have
pulled one and can't get the other in then I would cut one just long enough
to have some shank in the hole and epoxy it in. One rivet less on the
rudder cap will not a problem.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>
> That doesn't work with the pre-punched skins, Tommy. I didn't get to vote
> on where the holes were! :) They are directly in line with each
other.
>
> Still looking for help on this one...
>
> - Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:14 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>
>
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
> >To: RV-List
> >Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM
> >Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
> >
> >
> >>
> >>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you
> >guys
> >>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the
> >>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet
> >>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the
> >>second rivet.
> >>
> >>HELP!
> >>
> >>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp.
> >>
> >
> >Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get
the
> >required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at
> >once.
> >
> >Tommy
> >6A on the gear
> >Ridgetop, TN
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 11:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
Congratulations Bob. However before tapping the front cyl. very much I would
check the probe as the temp.you stated seems very low.Also if it's a new our
overhauled eng keep the power up for the first few hours.
Ollie N795LW 6A Tampa
>
> Listers,
>
> RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana
> airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be flying
> after working on it for 6+ years.
>
->
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
I am beginning construction on an RV-8 QB and wondering if there is a
builder's group in my area. I live about an hour SE of Chicago in LaPorte,
IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I
have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator
but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help.
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 QB Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard L. Lamb" <rll(at)netcom.com> |
Subject: | For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos |
Hello listers,
I've decided to not pursue the RV-8 project I had been contemplating.
Therefore, I'd like to offer the following for sale:
Orndorff Videos:
Sheet Metal Tools
Pre-Punched Empennage (2 tapes)
RV-8 Wings Construction (2 tapes)
RV-8 Fuselage Construction (2 tapes)
RV-8 Finishing Kit
---------
Set of 8 tapes: $80
Bingelis Books:
Tony Bingelis on Engines
Firewall Forward
Sportplane Construction Techniques
The Sportplane Builder
--------
Set of 4 books: $40
Van's RV-8/RV-8A Preview Plans: $25
18 Years of the RVator: $20
Buyer pays shipping.
I also have a number of non-"aircraft specific" tools available.
Those of you who live close enough to Spokane, WA to make
delivery or pick-up practical are invited to e-mail me for a
list.
Richard Lamb
rll(at)netcom.com
(509) 927-0698
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: starting the FAB |
On the right with the arms facing down and the throttle arm closest to the
mounting point.
>From: RKOdell(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: starting the FAB
>Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 07:57:22 EDT
>
>
>
><< On the bendix
> servo most people have the mixture and the throttle reversed >>
>
>This comment is interesting to me since I'm at the point of installing the
>Bendix servo on my IO360-B1B. I spent some time scratching my head about
>the
>installation of the servo last night. The little bit of info I have on
>installation (a few sketches) is contradictory, so I'm a little confused
>about how this thing should go on. Does the throttle arm go on the left or
>right (looking forward from the cockpit) ?
>
>Keith (scratching my head...again)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | STD-???? hardware |
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I have been told buy 2 AI's that all the crazy numbers are Manufactor's
part numbers.
I guess because we don't need that much stuff, the catalog houses don't
carry them. I was told to go to TEX-Air & they would have everthing. Main
thing I learned is Grade 8 won't get it.
Now here is a new one. I installed the Skytech starter this week. IT says
don't use flat washers under the star washers. ?????
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
>
> > After using fine thread hardware , (AN,MS,NAS) through the
> airframe I run
> > across the coarse threaded stuff on my Lyc. The parts book
> (PC-20302) for
> > my 0-320-D3G refers to a lot of STD parts that can be almost
> anything.
> > Now if you try & buy some from the ASS catalog it don't mention
> them.
> >
> > Are this Lycoming? Is it a standard like AN? Are they similar to
> Grade 8
> > at the hardware store?
>
> Didn't see any public responses to this one. I would like to know
> the answer
> to this too. I believe they are some industrial grade. Sacremento
> Skyranch
> would probably have the answer if not the hardware for sale. I'd be
> interested in any other info about it too including where to get
> things like
> coarse head drilled head bolts, drilled shaft bolts, castellated,
> nyloc or
> otherwise nuts, studs, etc.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flight Review |
Ken,
You can do a BFR and an endorsement in the same ride, just make sure the one
hour ground and one flight are there.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Flight Review
>Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 10:56:10 -0400
>
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>Actually, a CFI is not a check airman. A check airman is an employee of
>the FAA
>or an airline who is authorized to conduct flight checks.
>
>A CFI's privilege endorsement (tailwheel, complex, high performance, high
>altitude) is not a substitute for a BFR. To my knowledge, the only
>substitutes
>for a formal BFR are: 1) a flight test (passed) with either an FAA
>inspector, a
>DE, or the chief instructor of a Part 141 school with examining authority;
>and
>2) a completed and signed-off phase of the Wings program, which includes
>the one
>hour of ground and one hour of flight required by the actual BFR. If any
>other
>substitutes exist, I'd like to learn of them.
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch, CFI, etc.
>RV-8 #81125
>Ashland, MA
>cockpit stuff
>
>Imfairings(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> >
> > Brian,
> > A CFI is an official check airman, whatever that means, and signs the
>flight
> > review.
> > When I do an endorsement such as a conventional gear check out, I
>include a
> > flight review endorsement if the airman wants, just to avoid confusion.
> > Bob
> > Fairings Etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... |
Bill,
I had the same problem when I did my tail last year. What I did was to set
the first one then with the second one I tried to somewhat angle it in a
bit, then slowly pulled up the rivet and pushed in on the head of the rivet
puller. Because the rivet here expands from the back first as I pulled the
rivet on pushed on the rivet puller the shank slide in as I was going and
set up perfectly. Or as close to perfect as I could see. It was a bit
fustrating at first but when I decided to just do it everything seemed to
work out fine. Good Luck!!
Mike Robertson
>From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 08:48:53 -0700
>
>
>That doesn't work with the pre-punched skins, Tommy. I didn't get to vote
>on where the holes were! :) They are directly in line with each other.
>
>Still looking for help on this one...
>
>- Bill
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:14 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>
>
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
> >To: RV-List
> >Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM
> >Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
> >
> >
> >>
> >>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you
> >guys
> >>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the
> >>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet
> >>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the
> >>second rivet.
> >>
> >>HELP!
> >>
> >>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp.
> >>
> >
> >Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get
>the
> >required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at
> >once.
> >
> >Tommy
> >6A on the gear
> >Ridgetop, TN
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: STD-???? hardware |
Perhaps you believe all that stuff about rolled vs cut threads, but I sure
don't. A good grade 8 nut and bolt from NAPA is just fine for non stressed
applications. I wouldn't use them for rod bolts or case through bolts but if
you want to use eight $9 dollar Lycoming screws to hold on your valve cover
instead of a 50 cent NAPA equivalent, then go for it.
Bruce
Glasair III
Don R Jordan wrote:
>
> I have been told buy 2 AI's that all the crazy numbers are Manufactor's
> part numbers.
> I guess because we don't need that much stuff, the catalog houses don't
> carry them. I was told to go to TEX-Air & they would have everthing. Main
> thing I learned is Grade 8 won't get it.
>
> Now here is a new one. I installed the Skytech starter this week. IT says
> don't use flat washers under the star washers. ?????
>
> Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
>
> writes:
> >
> >
> > > After using fine thread hardware , (AN,MS,NAS) through the
> > airframe I run
> > > across the coarse threaded stuff on my Lyc. The parts book
> > (PC-20302) for
> > > my 0-320-D3G refers to a lot of STD parts that can be almost
> > anything.
> > > Now if you try & buy some from the ASS catalog it don't mention
> > them.
> > >
> > > Are this Lycoming? Is it a standard like AN? Are they similar to
> > Grade 8
> > > at the hardware store?
> >
> > Didn't see any public responses to this one. I would like to know
> > the answer
> > to this too. I believe they are some industrial grade. Sacremento
> > Skyranch
> > would probably have the answer if not the hardware for sale. I'd be
> > interested in any other info about it too including where to get
> > things like
> > coarse head drilled head bolts, drilled shaft bolts, castellated,
> > nyloc or
> > otherwise nuts, studs, etc.
> >
> > Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
> > Portland, OR
> > http://www.edt.com/homewing
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: 12V Power Outlets |
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens, Laird <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 11:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: 12V Power Outlets
>
>Hi all,
>
>I have my Cig Lighter mounted out of sight just behind my instrument panel.
One of the things I use it for is to tap into the 12V system to float charge
the battery. That way you don't have to dive under the panel to pull the
battery cover every time. I wouldn't use it to charge a dead battery though.
>
>Laird RV-6 - had my 1st "sock straight out" 90deg crosswind takeoff sunday
:-0
>SoCal
>
I considered the same approach but I was concerned that I'd have to leave
the master switch on during the charging which means the turn coordinator,
VM-1000 and several other things would be on during charging. Is your Cig
Lighter run off the master switch bus?
Dennis Persyk N600DP RV6A
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos |
will try calling you...interisted....if I can't get in touch with you,
will you call me?...jolly dawson 503-678-3343...thanks
"Richard L. Lamb" wrote:
>
> Hello listers,
>
> I've decided to not pursue the RV-8 project I had been contemplating.
> Therefore, I'd like to offer the following for sale:
>
> Orndorff Videos:
> Sheet Metal Tools
> Pre-Punched Empennage (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Wings Construction (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Fuselage Construction (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Finishing Kit
> ---------
> Set of 8 tapes: $80
>
> Bingelis Books:
> Tony Bingelis on Engines
> Firewall Forward
> Sportplane Construction Techniques
> The Sportplane Builder
> --------
> Set of 4 books: $40
>
> Van's RV-8/RV-8A Preview Plans: $25
>
> 18 Years of the RVator: $20
>
> Buyer pays shipping.
>
> I also have a number of non-"aircraft specific" tools available.
> Those of you who live close enough to Spokane, WA to make
> delivery or pick-up practical are invited to e-mail me for a
> list.
>
> Richard Lamb
> rll(at)netcom.com
> (509) 927-0698
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flight Review |
Hi Mike,
Absolutely true. I hope I didn't imply otherwise. To clarify: an endorsement
does not qualify as a BFR itself, but can be combined with a BFR so long as the
other requirements are met.
Regards,
Ken
Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> You can do a BFR and an endorsement in the same ride, just make sure the one
> hour ground and one flight are there.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
> >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Flight Review
> >Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 10:56:10 -0400
> >
> >
> >Hi Guys,
> >
> >Actually, a CFI is not a check airman. A check airman is an employee of
> >the FAA
> >or an airline who is authorized to conduct flight checks.
> >
> >A CFI's privilege endorsement (tailwheel, complex, high performance, high
> >altitude) is not a substitute for a BFR. To my knowledge, the only
> >substitutes
> >for a formal BFR are: 1) a flight test (passed) with either an FAA
> >inspector, a
> >DE, or the chief instructor of a Part 141 school with examining authority;
> >and
> >2) a completed and signed-off phase of the Wings program, which includes
> >the one
> >hour of ground and one hour of flight required by the actual BFR. If any
> >other
> >substitutes exist, I'd like to learn of them.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Ken Balch, CFI, etc.
> >RV-8 #81125
> >Ashland, MA
> >cockpit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <cbegnaud(at)bigfoot.com> |
Subject: | Re: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos |
Richard,
I would like to buy the 4 books!
Where do I send a check?
Cliff
303-604-9702
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard L. Lamb" <rll(at)netcom.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 11:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos
>
> Hello listers,
>
> I've decided to not pursue the RV-8 project I had been contemplating.
> Therefore, I'd like to offer the following for sale:
>
> Orndorff Videos:
> Sheet Metal Tools
> Pre-Punched Empennage (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Wings Construction (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Fuselage Construction (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Finishing Kit
> ---------
> Set of 8 tapes: $80
>
> Bingelis Books:
> Tony Bingelis on Engines
> Firewall Forward
> Sportplane Construction Techniques
> The Sportplane Builder
> --------
> Set of 4 books: $40
>
> Van's RV-8/RV-8A Preview Plans: $25
>
> 18 Years of the RVator: $20
>
> Buyer pays shipping.
>
> I also have a number of non-"aircraft specific" tools available.
> Those of you who live close enough to Spokane, WA to make
> delivery or pick-up practical are invited to e-mail me for a
> list.
>
> Richard Lamb
> rll(at)netcom.com
> (509) 927-0698
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
Subject: | Re: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos |
Would you be interested in selling the video's minus the Pre-Punched Emp. I
just that one. If so, how much?
Thanks.
Bob Waalkes
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard L. Lamb <rll(at)netcom.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Bingelis Books & Orndorff Videos
>
>Hello listers,
>
>I've decided to not pursue the RV-8 project I had been contemplating.
>Therefore, I'd like to offer the following for sale:
>
>Orndorff Videos:
> Sheet Metal Tools
> Pre-Punched Empennage (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Wings Construction (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Fuselage Construction (2 tapes)
> RV-8 Finishing Kit
> ---------
> Set of 8 tapes: $80
>
>Bingelis Books:
> Tony Bingelis on Engines
> Firewall Forward
> Sportplane Construction Techniques
> The Sportplane Builder
> --------
> Set of 4 books: $40
>
>Van's RV-8/RV-8A Preview Plans: $25
>
>18 Years of the RVator: $20
>
>Buyer pays shipping.
>
>I also have a number of non-"aircraft specific" tools available.
>Those of you who live close enough to Spokane, WA to make
>delivery or pick-up practical are invited to e-mail me for a
>list.
>
>Richard Lamb
>rll(at)netcom.com
>(509) 927-0698
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Liddekee <jeneral(at)texasconnect.net> |
Subject: | Re: vent screens, fuel economy, and |
that will be fine i guess. forward check to:
Mike Liddekee
Rt. 13 Box 419A
Texarkana, TX 75501
and yes both are 4port.
Tuesday, August 08, 2000, 9:27:13 AM, you wrote:
FVA> I installed screen on my RV-4 vents and everything worked fine. Don't put
FVA> them between the vent and the skin though... that will destroy the airflow.
FVA> Put a piece higher up in the vent. Mine was installed where the vent
FVA> connected to the hose. You could barely see it from the outside. Worked
FVA> fine.
FVA> Fuel economy with an O-320-E3D, wood prop, RV-4 running 100LL here in the
FVA> midwest was always 7.5 to 8 gph, usually closer to 7.5.
FVA> When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how
FVA> you guys are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of
FVA> the rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet
FVA> interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the
FVA> second rivet.
FVA> Dang, no good advice here. Everybody does this the first time around.
FVA> Wiggle both pop rivets in place, pull each half way, wiggle a little more,
FVA> then set one, wiggle, so on. Worked for mine. You'll remember to offset
FVA> these rivets on the other control surfaces....right?
FVA> You will have problems like this throughout the construction of your
FVA> project. :-( Always remember to think about what is behind that hole you're
FVA> about to drill BEFORE you drill it. This is particularly important around
FVA> the spars.
FVA> BTW, I fill all my pop rivets with auto body seam sealer. I use the
FVA> aluminum colored stuff. You dab a little in the hole and wipe off te excess
FVA> with solvent dampened rag. Works great, no sanding necessary, and seals out
FVA> water. You can paint right over it or it looks fine next to bare aluminum.
FVA> FWIW, I don't worry about the stems being visible as someone pointed out.
FVA> I'm pretty careful, but even I wouldn't worry about that one. I mean, what
FVA> a preflight.... first check the oil, then check all the pop rivet stems.
FVA> Ack!
FVA> Vince Frazier
FVA> Harmon Rocket II
FVA> N314VF reserved
FVA> http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html <-----Rocket website
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Meacham" <bruceme(at)exmsft.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Thanks Less,
And please post the results.
Bruce Meacham
----- Original Message -----
From: <LessDragProd(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
> --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 08/08/2000 8:52:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> bruceme(at)exmsft.com writes:
>
> > Hey Less,
> >
> > A couple questions... What's the sea level power altitude for the
LOM?
>
> The LOM M332A produces 115 hp at 2550 rpm and 29.5" mp, and 140 hp 2700
rpm
> and 35" mp. These are both sea level power settings.
>
> > And what alitude do you figure you get maximum fuel efficiency? Also
how
> is
> > overboost on takeoff?
>
> The supercharger provides an additional 5" mp for takeoff and climb (5
min.
> limited).
>
> > You seem to be getting significantly better fuel efficiency than an
O-320
> > which is an incredibly efficient engine. I'm wondering what factors
cause
> > this.
>
> The LOM engine was designed in 1959. It is a dry sump engine with hemi
> heads, an overhead cam, fuel injected and supercharged. The fuel flow
sucks
> (pun intended) with the supercharger running.
>
> > Bruce Meacham
>
> I don't have the fastest RV-3 (196 mph true ias at 7,500' density
altitude),
> but I believe I have the cleanest RV-3. That helps the fuel flow numbers.
>
> BTW my full throttle unsupercharged Vne critical altitude is above 1,500'.
> (I can acheive the 210 mph ias Vne in level flight at, or below, that
> altitude.)
> When I get the new instrument panel and wiring installed, I plan to get
Vne
> critical altitude numbers both with, and without, the supercharger
engaged.
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Installing Rudder Tip Problem... |
Make sure you are using the MK319 blind rivets and not the CS4-4's. I
didn't have any problems with my prepunched -6 rudder skin.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>
> That doesn't work with the pre-punched skins, Tommy. I didn't get to vote
> on where the holes were! :) They are directly in line with each
other.
>
> Still looking for help on this one...
>
> - Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tommy Walker <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:14 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
>
>
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
> >To: RV-List
> >Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:47 AM
> >Subject: RV-List: Installing Rudder Tip Problem...
> >
> >
> >>
> >>When installing the fiberglass tip to the rudder, I'm wondering how you
> >guys
> >>are installing the two pop rivets closest to the trailing edge of the
> >>rudder. Once the first rivet is set, the stem of the opposing rivet
> >>interferes with the first to the point that it's impossible to set the
> >>second rivet.
> >>
> >>HELP!
> >>
> >>- Bill in Tucson, -8 QB emp.
> >>
> >
> >Bill, I just offset the rivits enough (staggered the spaceing) to get
the
> >required clearance. It's not noticable cause you can't see both sides at
> >once.
> >
> >Tommy
> >6A on the gear
> >Ridgetop, TN
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
Subject: | 12V Power Outlets |
Hi Dennis,
I ran the cig lighter off the hot side of the essencial bus switch (which is fuse
protected) so I could charge and not have any switches on. If you look at the
picture on my web page, you can see the essential switch on the far right,
and the outlet is mounted just behind it off the upper longeron behind the panel.
For those who have the AeroElectric Connection, go to schematic Z-1 "Simple System",
find the switch S3 "essential bus alt feed". It's connected to terminal
2.
Laird
http://members3.clubphoto.com/laird244198/Laird_RV-6_N515L/
SoCal
I considered the same approach but I was concerned that I'd have to leave
the master switch on during the charging which means the turn coordinator,
VM-1000 and several other things would be on during charging. Is your Cig
Lighter run off the master switch bus?
Dennis Persyk N600DP RV6A
Hampshire, IL C38
Laird wrote:
snip
One of the things I use it for is to tap into the 12V system to float charge
the battery.
snip
>Laird RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 12V Power Outlets |
I ran mine to the battery with a 5 amp c/b so I could trickle charge w/o the
master being on.
dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net on 08/08/2000 01:59:13 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: 12V Power Outlets
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens, Laird <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 11:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: 12V Power Outlets
>
>Hi all,
>
>I have my Cig Lighter mounted out of sight just behind my instrument panel.
One of the things I use it for is to tap into the 12V system to float charge
the battery. That way you don't have to dive under the panel to pull the
battery cover every time. I wouldn't use it to charge a dead battery though.
>
>Laird RV-6 - had my 1st "sock straight out" 90deg crosswind takeoff sunday
:-0
>SoCal
>
I considered the same approach but I was concerned that I'd have to leave
the master switch on during the charging which means the turn coordinator,
VM-1000 and several other things would be on during charging. Is your Cig
Lighter run off the master switch bus?
Dennis Persyk N600DP RV6A
Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chief86249(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: STD-???? hardware |
United Plating Works, Inc, FAA-Approved repair station will replate your old
bolts,nuts, washers, etc for $5 a pound. An excellent way of going rather
than purchasing new hardware. They will also replate your pushrod tubes,
valve covers, pressure valve, anything metal. Can be done in either standard
cadmium plating or bright (silver) plating. Their phone number is 918-835-4683
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Free Standing Jig ? |
Build mine out of scrap iron bolted only to the floor, 3 bolts per
stand.
just removed them.
Gert
Sam Cherroff wrote:
>
>
> I've seen a lot of pictures on the various constructors web pages of the
> assembly jig that is used during construction of all of the surfaces. In every
> case the jig is apparently attached to the ceiling.
>
> My shop has a 16' ceiling and so anchoring the jigs this way would be
> problematic. Are there plans for a free standing jig? Can anyone point me to
> a site that has pictures?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Sam
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> Cinelogic, Co.
> (818)772-4777
> fax 772-4733
> sam(at)videoassist.com
> http://www.videoassist.com
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Builders Groups |
In a message dated 8/8/00 12:15:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
waalkes(at)netnitco.net writes:
<< I live about an hour SE of Chicago in LaPorte,
IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I
have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator
but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help.
Bob Waalkes >>
Hello Bob,
If you have a fax I'll send you a list of the Chicago Area RVators. You can
look it over and contact someone close to you or give me a call.
Welcome the World of RVs!
Dale Ensing 6A finishing
Cary Illinois (NW of Chicago)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since
major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked (prop not spinning)
into a field and one blade was bent (prop strike). It comes with starter,
alt, mags, fuel servo and system. I am having a hard time believing a prop
struck engine is worth the $12,500 they are asking for it. Then again, I'm
relatively new at this and it is injected (as well as
counterbalanced?)....anyone care to comment or advise?
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
>
>
>I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since
>major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked (prop not spinning)
>into a field and one blade was bent (prop strike). It comes with starter,
>alt, mags, fuel servo and system. I am having a hard time believing a prop
>struck engine is worth the $12,500 they are asking for it. Then again, I'm
>relatively new at this and it is injected (as well as
>counterbalanced?)....anyone care to comment or advise?
>
>Bill
>-4 wings
>
Bill,
I'd look at it but would not pay the asking price. Maybe $8K fully knowing
that you may have a bent prop flange or damage to the front seal and case
area. Then again, it could very well be mechanically sound but $12.5K would
be way beyond my personal financial risk level. Perhaps a sharp engine guru
in your area could check it out for you?
Good luck in your engine hunt!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
down for paint
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
Bill,
It could be worth it if the flange isn't bent. If they are willing to have
a run-out check done on the flange before you buy it then keep talking. If
they are not willing to have a check done then walk away.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Engine worth?
>Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 18:35:40 -0400
>
>
>I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since
>major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked (prop not spinning)
>into a field and one blade was bent (prop strike). It comes with starter,
>alt, mags, fuel servo and system. I am having a hard time believing a prop
>struck engine is worth the $12,500 they are asking for it. Then again, I'm
>relatively new at this and it is injected (as well as
>counterbalanced?)....anyone care to comment or advise?
>
>Bill
>-4 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
Subject: | Re: Builders Groups |
Bob,
I maintain the mailing list for the Chicago Area group. We lost our
editor to cancer last year and since my engine arrived, I have not been real
eager to publish newsletters. However, I do publish an abbreviated program
prior to the two or three annual events that we plan each year.
If you or other readers will send me your mailing address, type of project,
and phone number, I will include you in the next mailing coming up soon.
This mailing is prompted by our annual fall picnic which is usually the last
Sunday in September at Casa de Aero in Hampshire, IL. The date has not been
firmed up as yet. We usually have people from all the neighboring states
represented.
Tom Barnes (junior editor)
904 Saxon Place
Buffalo Grove, IL 60089
847-541-6072
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Waalkes <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Builders Groups
>
> I am beginning construction on an RV-8 QB and wondering if there is a
> builder's group in my area. I live about an hour SE of Chicago in
LaPorte,
> IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I
> have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator
> but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help.
>
> Bob Waalkes
> RV-8 QB Emp.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Repairman's Cert - resolved |
As of this morning I'm now in possession of the Air worthiness cert AND
Repairman's cert for RV-3A, N993FL Ser#488!
Thanks to all on the list who responded to my cry for help, especially
Scott R McDaniels who directed me to FAA form 8000-38 (Fabrication
Assembly
Operation Checklist), which gave me a back-up plan (un-needed as it
turned out) and peace of mind.
My initial handling was to cut the description of the RV-6 Quickbuilt
from Van's web site and fax it to the inspector with a note saying that
builders of the quickbuilts are being issued Repairman's certs.
The inspector, on his own, found the 8000-38 and filled it in,
pretending the previous builder(s) were the manufacturer and found that
I had done more than 2/3rds of the checklist.
Finn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
Sounds a little high to me. Call Wentworth Aircraft and ask what they
want for a similar engine with similar time.
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> I have an opportunity to buy an IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since
> major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked (prop not spinning)
> into a field and one blade was bent (prop strike). It comes with starter,
> alt, mags, fuel servo and system. I am having a hard time believing a prop
> struck engine is worth the $12,500 they are asking for it. Then again, I'm
> relatively new at this and it is injected (as well as
> counterbalanced?)....anyone care to comment or advise?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "marcel de ruiter" <marcelderuiter(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
----- Original Message ----- > > >I have an opportunity to buy an
IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since
> >major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked .
It sounds like a lot of money for what seems to be a troublesome engine. If
I'm not mistaken, Mr Lycoming sells these engines to run relatively easy to
their TBO of 2000 hrs. What ever happens, this engine will probably needs
shock-loaded before anything else.....
Give yourself some time, save up another $7500 and buy one straight from the
box through Van's. At least you have the right IO360, which will save you
having to modify it.
I think it might be a bit much to stick 200HP in a -4(?)
Marcel de Ruiter
RV4/G-RVMJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT
applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not
require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply
to homebuilts.
What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance
requirements, nor good sense.
Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers plus
more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my RV-3.
It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and
instructor to get the endorsement.
(I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even
if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down the
runway.)
Finn
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | experimental crash |
The local news showed an airplane splattered at the midpoint of the
runway at Lakeland. It appeared to be metal but you could not tell
what it was. They said it was an experimental that crashed on takeoff.
The pilot did not survive. Anyone in Florida know what it was and
what happened?
Earl, RV-4 still building
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
Saw a beautiful RV-4 parked at Wilgrove (8A6) Charlotte, NC earlier
in the week. Did not get to meet the owner before it left. The data
plate said it was manufactured in California in 93. The engine was
an IO-360 B3A or something like that and listed the horsepower at
225. Don't know how he got that much out of it but it sure was
pretty.
Earl RV-4
marcel de ruiter wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- > > >I have an opportunity to buy an
> IO-360-A3B6D. It has 2083 TT, 1115 since
> > >major, 552 since top (new cylinders). It dead sticked .
>
> It sounds like a lot of money for what seems to be a troublesome engine. If
> I'm not mistaken, Mr Lycoming sells these engines to run relatively easy to
> their TBO of 2000 hrs. What ever happens, this engine will probably needs
> shock-loaded before anything else.....
>
> Give yourself some time, save up another $7500 and buy one straight from the
> box through Van's. At least you have the right IO360, which will save you
> having to modify it.
>
> I think it might be a bit much to stick 200HP in a -4(?)
>
> Marcel de Ruiter
> RV4/G-RVMJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: STD-???? hardware |
Don R Jordan wrote:
>
>
> I have been told buy 2 AI's that all the crazy numbers are Manufactor's
> part numbers.
> I guess because we don't need that much stuff, the catalog houses don't
> carry them. I was told to go to TEX-Air & they would have everthing. Main
> thing I learned is Grade 8 won't get it.
>
> Now here is a new one. I installed the Skytech starter this week. IT says
> don't use flat washers under the star washers. ?????
>
> Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
> **********************************************
Grade 5 and 8 are plenty strong, the only reason that we are not
supposed to use them on our aircraft is because the quality control
is not as critical on hardware store bolts.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
Subject: | Re: Builders Groups |
Dale,
Thanks a million! My fax is 219-874-7991. Phone 888-247-9937.
Thanks again.
Bob Waalkes
-----Original Message-----
From: DWENSING(at)AOL.COM <DWENSING(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Builders Groups
>
>In a message dated 8/8/00 12:15:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
>waalkes(at)netnitco.net writes:
>
><< I live about an hour SE of Chicago in LaPorte,
> IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I
> have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area RVator
> but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help.
>
> Bob Waalkes >>
>
>Hello Bob,
>If you have a fax I'll send you a list of the Chicago Area RVators. You can
>look it over and contact someone close to you or give me a call.
>Welcome the World of RVs!
>Dale Ensing 6A finishing
>Cary Illinois (NW of Chicago)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vince Welch <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and
was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in
about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect,
similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on
the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a
couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent
all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up
a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of
days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the
first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and
nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an
hour.
Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches
of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: experimental crash |
Copied from rec.aviation.homebuilt...
Pilot David Eachon was killed today moments after takeoff while piloting
his 5/8 scale Spitfire here at Lakeland Linder (LAL).
The footage shown by the local station shows the airplane has a tail
number of N355DE.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "EARL FORTNER" <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: experimental crash
>
> The local news showed an airplane splattered at the midpoint of the
> runway at Lakeland. It appeared to be metal but you could not tell
> what it was. They said it was an experimental that crashed on takeoff.
> The pilot did not survive. Anyone in Florida know what it was and
> what happened?
> Earl, RV-4 still building
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
Subject: | Re: experimental crash |
From the Lakeland Ledger home page....
Pilot Dies While Testing a Homebuilt Plane
LAKELAND -- A Tampa pilot testing a homemade World War II Spitfire replica
was killed Tuesday morning at Lakeland Linder Regional Airport.
David Roy Eachon, 32, crashed soon after takeoff as his family videotaped
the olive-and-gray plane's ascent. Witnesses said the plane climbed to
between 300 and 500 feet and appeared to go into a flat spin. Eachon righted
the plane, gunning the engine while trying to pull up before impact.
Eachon, a commercially rated pilot, suffered severe injuries and died as a
result in his aircraft.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "EARL FORTNER" <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: experimental crash
>
> The local news showed an airplane splattered at the midpoint of the
> runway at Lakeland. It appeared to be metal but you could not tell
> what it was. They said it was an experimental that crashed on takeoff.
> The pilot did not survive. Anyone in Florida know what it was and
> what happened?
> Earl, RV-4 still building
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Finn,
I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an
Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get
away with flying without a AMEL ticket.
Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better
license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines on
it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. :
)
Regards,
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Finn Lassen
> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
>
> Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT
> applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
>
> I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not
> require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply
> to homebuilts.
>
> What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance
> requirements, nor good sense.
>
> Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers plus
> more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my RV-3.
> It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and
> instructor to get the endorsement.
>
> (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even
> if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down the
> runway.)
>
> Finn
>
>
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
How about filling it with avgas, pressurize it, and look for the blue
stain where the gas leaks out?
Tim Lewis
On 8 Aug 00, at 20:26, Vince Welch wrote:
>
> Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and
> was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in
> about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect,
> similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on
> the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a
> couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent
> all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed
> up a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple
> of days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble
> the first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and
> nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an
> hour.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
> could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
> from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15
> inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same
> result.
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A
>
>
>
>
>
>
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Greener" <rgreener(at)micron.net> |
Subject: | Re: RE: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00 |
Hello Rob,
Still here and still building my 3B so don't get discouraged.
Glad to hear that you are enjoying your new job.
Yell if I can be of any help.
Best regards,
Rob (RV-3B N418RL (Reserved))
rgreener(at)micron.net
ANYONE STILL OUT THERE IN RV3LIST LAND? STARTING TO GET DISCOURAGED!
Rob Reece
RV-3 SN45
Wichita KS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Derrick W. Vogt" <dvogt(at)kscable.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re: RV3-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/05/00 |
I am here in Wichita
Derrick
Robert Greener wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Robert Greener"
>
> Hello Rob,
>
> Still here and still building my 3B so don't get discouraged.
>
> Glad to hear that you are enjoying your new job.
>
> Yell if I can be of any help.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob (RV-3B N418RL (Reserved))
>
> rgreener(at)micron.net
>
> ANYONE STILL OUT THERE IN RV3LIST LAND? STARTING TO GET DISCOURAGED!
>
> Rob Reece
> RV-3 SN45
> Wichita KS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matthew Gelber <mgelber(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
I am about to close up my first fuel tank. I've got all the ribs in, but
have yet to attach the rear baffle. I'd like to leak test what I've done so
far, figuring that if I do have a leak around one of the rib or stiffener
rivets it'll be easy to fix at this point, and a lot harder later. Is there
any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with avgas
like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing down
real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when attaching
the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could do
the job better?
I'm putting in capacitance senders so I can proseal on the inspection cover
before attaching the rear baffle.
Matthew
-8A 48PP
PS- If you're not to the tanks yet, don't believe people if they tell you
ProSeal is a vile and hideous substance. It's actually far worse.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Not true!!!....More to come later as I have to run off for the night and
work on my plane.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
>From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 11:14:38 +1000
>
>
> Finn,
>
> I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an
>Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get
>away with flying without a AMEL ticket.
> Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better
>license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines
>on
>it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. :
)
>
> Regards,
> Bob
>RV8 #423
>
>
> > ----------
> > From: Finn Lassen
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> >
> >
> > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT
> > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
> >
> > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not
> > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply
> > to homebuilts.
> >
> > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance
> > requirements, nor good sense.
> >
> > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers plus
> > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my RV-3.
> > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and
> > instructor to get the endorsement.
> >
> > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even
> > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down the
> > runway.)
> >
> > Finn
> >
> >
> > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Bob DiMeo - Oracle wrote:
>
>
> Finn,
>
> I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an
> Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get
> away with flying without a AMEL ticket.
> Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better
> license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines on
> it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. :
)
The Aircam is NOT an ultralight and does require the multi-engine
rating.
Sam Buchanan (single engine, tail-dragger version of clipped wing RV-9A)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/8/00 6:00:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
vwelch(at)knownet.net writes:
<< Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches
of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
>>
Check the cap, a lot of them leak through the O-ring in the center bolt.
Fred LaForge So Cal.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
Listers -
We put a PS1000 intercomm in our brand new Cessna 175 family plane (an
RV-9 is too small...), and it has a way cool automatic squelch driven by
a digital signal processor. The way cool news is that they now have a
portable intercomm (mono, not stereo) for $199 list (we got ours at OSH
for 10% off) with the same smarts to it. That's going to replace the
plain old intercomm in the RV-4, which is for sale now.
Also, we went the UPS AT radios, and like them a lot. We've had no
problems with the SL-30 (the lead engineer sold his -6 project, but he's
still a good guy), nor the GX-60 IFR GPS. We're not using the built in intercomms.
Ed Wischmeyer
--
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
tel;work:425 376-2176
url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Subject: | Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop |
From: | Tom Brandon <majortom(at)apex.net> |
Hi George:
I spoke to Henry Gorgas today and he wanted me to contact everyone to make
sure you're still coming to the class.
Thanks
Tom Brandon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
Matthew Gelber wrote:
>
> I am about to close up my first fuel tank. I've got all the ribs in, but
> have yet to attach the rear baffle. I'd like to leak test what I've done so
> far, figuring that if I do have a leak around one of the rib or stiffener
> rivets it'll be easy to fix at this point, and a lot harder later. Is there
> any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with avgas
> like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing down
> real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when attaching
> the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could do
> the job better?
For saftey reasons I would shy away from filling the open tanks with Avgas. If
you cleaned everything up, and I mean clean, used plenty of proseal and made
nice filets then the tank should not leak when done.
There seems to be a correlation between the amount of proseal used and the
leakage rate of tanks. Builders who use 2 cans for 2 tanks have no leaks,
while those who used 2/3 of a can for 2 tanks usially find leaks.
The most vile and hideous substance know to man is not ProSeal, its called
Epoxy resin.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A N99PZ
>
>
> I'm putting in capacitance senders so I can proseal on the inspection cover
> before attaching the rear baffle.
>
> Matthew
> -8A 48PP
> PS- If you're not to the tanks yet, don't believe people if they tell you
> ProSeal is a vile and hideous substance. It's actually far worse.
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Krhooper(at)AOL.COM |
I had similar results. Soaped everything and found the cap leaking. Finally
went to Home Depot and bought a plumber's test plug ( 2 1/2 " I think) Ballon
tested no leaks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the
FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel
experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and
based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel
endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which
lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not
apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft
under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type
certificate."
Jerry Springer
Bob DiMeo - Oracle wrote:
>
>
> Finn,
>
> I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an
> Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get
> away with flying without a AMEL ticket.
> Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better
> license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines on
> it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. :
)
>
> Regards,
> Bob
> RV8 #423
>
> > ----------
> > From: Finn Lassen
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> >
> >
> > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT
> > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
> >
> > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not
> > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply
> > to homebuilts.
> >
> > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance
> > requirements, nor good sense.
> >
> > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers plus
> > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my RV-3.
> > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and
> > instructor to get the endorsement.
> >
> > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even
> > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down the
> > runway.)
> >
> > Finn
> >
> >
> > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
>
>
> Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel
> endorsement), is NOT
> applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
>
> I was just told today by someone that the twin
> engine AirCam does not
> require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR
> 63.31 doesn't apply
> to homebuilts.
>
> What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not
> insurance
> requirements, nor good sense.
>
> Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in
> various taildraggers plus
> more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and
> down) taiing my RV-3.
> It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access
> to an airplane and
> instructor to get the endorsement.
>
> (I would like to be able to announce the first
> flight of my RV-3, even
> if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with
> subsequent bounces down the
> runway.)
>
> Finn
Finn:
If you look at the "Operation Limitations" that are
issued with an EXPERIMENTAL Amateur-built aircraft,
you will that (in mine it is # 10) "The
pilot-in-command of this aircraft must, as
applicable, hold an appropriate category / class, have
an aircraft type rating, or have a flight instructor's
logbook endorsement, and have a "letter of
Authorization" from the FAA."
As I read it, you must have a tailwheel endorsement or
have logged PIC time in a tailwheel aircraft under the
grandfather clause of the part of the FAR that
requires the tailwheel endorsement. Maybe Mike "Das
Fed" can quote the FAR number. I believe that
61.31(i)(2) "The training and endorsement required by
paragraph (i)(1) of this section is not required if
the person logged pilot-in-command time in a tailwheel
airplane before April 15, 1991."
I do not have a tailwheel endorsement in my log
becasue I have logged pilot-in-command time in my
logbook in several tailwheel aircraft before April 15,
1991. Yes I did have transition training before
flying the tailwheel aircraft.
I think FAR 63 deals with crewmembers other than
pilots and as such FAR 63 does not deal with our RV
experimental aircraft. Hopefully Mike "Das Fed" can
correct me.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au> |
Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
I stand corrected.
Thanks, Sam for the info on the AirCam.
I just did a little research on the rest of the question and the answer is
"It depends".
Quoting form an answer give for another enquiry relating to a gyro-plane
rating:
From FAQs part 61.
" Ref 61.31 (k)(2)(iii); as per 91.319(e), it depends on the limitations
that have been incorporated in the letter of operating limitations that gets
issues with the aircraft's experimental airworthiness certificate. The pilot
will have to comply with those limitations. And if the limitations says his
experimental airworthiness certificate is predicated on him holding a
Rotorcraft-Gryoplane rating then that is what he'll have to hold. Regardless
of what 61(k)(2)(iii) appears to say (This section does not apply to
experimental aircraft), the pilot still has to comply with 91.319(e) and the
letter of operating limitations. And normally, in that letter of operating
limitations, the FAA always establishes a category and class rating for
operating an experimental aircraft."
Now a rating and endorsement are certainly different. It appears that,
unless it's put on your operating limitations, you don't need the tail wheel
endorsement.
By the way; the FAQ sections in the AFS 600 section of the FAA web site is
great reading! Every question you wanted to ask and the way the FAA
interprets its own rules.
Bob
RV8 #423
> ----------
> From: Mike Robertson
> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:05 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
>
> Not true!!!....More to come later as I have to run off for the night and
> work on my plane.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: Bob DiMeo - Oracle <dimeob(at)powertel.com.au>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> >Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 11:14:38 +1000
> >
>
> >
> >
> > Finn,
> >
> > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an
> >Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get
> >away with flying without a AMEL ticket.
> > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better
> >license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two engines
>
> >on
> >it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. :
)
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bob
> >RV8 #423
> >
> >
> > > ----------
> > > From: Finn Lassen
> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> > >
> > >
> > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT
> > > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
> > >
> > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not
> > > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply
> > > to homebuilts.
> > >
> > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance
> > > requirements, nor good sense.
> > >
> > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers
> plus
> > > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my
> RV-3.
> > > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and
> > > instructor to get the endorsement.
> > >
> > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even
> > > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down
> the
> > > runway.)
> > >
> > > Finn
> > >
> > >
> > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
In a message dated 8/8/2000 7:49:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
finnlassen(at)netzero.net writes:
<< Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT
applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not
require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply
to homebuilts.
>>
All depends on what the Dar says when he signs off the plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ |
Bob, congratulations, and thanks for the added incentive. I figure six more
months on mine. Looking forward to the photos and performance data on yours.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (finish, drilling plexi)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Japundza <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 11:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: whooohooo! First flight N244BJ
>
>Listers,
>
>RV6 N244BJ went on its maiden flight tonight at the Kokomo, Indiana
>airport. I can't put into words how good it feels to finally be flying
>after working on it for 6+ years.
>
>I have been waiting on the weather to clear for the past few days, and
>tonight I couldn't have asked for better conditions. Sky was clear and
>no winds.
>
>Empty weight 1076 with O-360-A1A, Hartzell prop, full gyro panel, CD
>player and a heavy paint job.
>
>I departed at 7:15 this evening and flew for 25 minutes as it was
>starting to get dark. On climout, I saw my #3 CHT climb to 430 and the
>#1 CHT was 200. Temps stabilized when I leveled out at 6000 feet, but
>#1 went down to 175. Outside air temp was 78 degrees. I am going to
>experiment with some stainless tape in front of #1 when I fly again.
>Oil temp was 185 in cruise. Right wing was a bit heavy, but very
>managable, with 1/4" of aileron deflection to maintain level flight. I
>had a bit more fuel in the right tank.
>
>I was loitering at 115 knots running 13-15" inches and 2300 RPM. I
>went to 23 squared and saw 160 knots on the GPS. The wheels chriped a
>few times when I landed but I got her back down in one piece. I was
>trying for a two-pointer and was a little fast.
>
>Stay tuned for more data and pictures.
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 .5 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop |
I know I missed the first couple of threads on this subject.... But when and
where is the Henry Gorgas Builder Work Shop?
Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Thanks Jerry and all others who responded.
It looks like I lucked out. This is what the FA inspector put in my operating
limitations:
"15. The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class rating,
or
an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must meet
the
requirements of paragraph 61.31 (e), (f), (g), (h), (I), and (j) as appropriate".
Well, if 61.31 (k) says it doesn't apply, then I guess the above is not "as
appropriate".
Finn
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the
> FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel
> experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and
> based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel
> endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which
> lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not
> apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft
> under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type
> certificate."
>
> Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Finn Lassen wrote:
Finn
I certainly am NOT recommending that you do not get an endorsement.
As an instructor I would recommend that you do if you can find an
instructor and airplane to get it with. It sounds like you are a
low time tailwheel pilot so a little dual would not hurt as there
a lot of "getchas" that can happen with a tailwheel airplane.
Be very carefull in crosswind takeoff and landing situations.
I am sure you know this stuff already but thought I would add
it as a reminder.:)
Jerry
>
> Thanks Jerry and all others who responded.
>
> It looks like I lucked out. This is what the FA inspector put in my operating
> limitations:
> "15. The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class rating,
or
> an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must meet
the
> requirements of paragraph 61.31 (e), (f), (g), (h), (I), and (j) as appropriate".
>
> Well, if 61.31 (k) says it doesn't apply, then I guess the above is not "as
> appropriate".
>
> Finn
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> >
> > I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the
> > FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel
> > experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and
> > based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel
> > endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which
> > lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not
> > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft
> > under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type
> > certificate."
> >
> > Jerry Springer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
Vince,
Did you check the fuel cap? The O-ring on the fuel cap may not expand enought
to tighly seal the tank during leak test.
It was the big source of air leak during my initial leak test on my tanks.
T.Nguyen
>>> vwelch(at)knownet.net 08/08/00 07:26PM >>>
Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and
was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in
about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect,
similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on
the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a
couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent
all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up
a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of
days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the
first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and
nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an
hour.
Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches
of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
There is another correlation too. Builders who use two cans of proseal will
be hauling around an unneeded can of proseal for the rest of the airframe's
life!!
If you follow the instructions, clean everything, and make sure you provide
adequate coverage, you will build a tank that lasts forever and won't leak.
No flame intended, but you really don't need to put a ton of the stuff on
everything. And worst case, if you do develop a leak, you can easily cut a
hole in the rear baffle immediately adjacent to the leak, repair the leak,
and proseal a plate on. I had one small leak in mine that I could reach
through the end plate. I think the hype on building the tanks is much worse
than the reality of it. However, if you are building a sliding canopy,
well......your fun is just beginning. (Just kidding, the canopy isn't that
hard either. I know if I keep saying that, it will come true someday.)
As others have suggested, the leak is probably in the fuel cap.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (40 hours)
Indianapolis (UMP soon to be 3FK)
> There seems to be a correlation between the amount of proseal used and the
> leakage rate of tanks. Builders who use 2 cans for 2 tanks have no leaks,
> while those who used 2/3 of a can for 2 tanks usially find leaks.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Bronson <IMAV8N(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Finn Lassen wrote:
From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
Burlington.... 22, 23, and 24th of sept.
273sb CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcABj7xARMmilDN4QPml4bIysFRd7QAdzMyA
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | waalkes(at)netnitco.net |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Builders Groups
Bob,
There are several RV's in the area...I remember there were two RV-4's at
Porter County, there is one flying and several under construction at
Mishawaka Pilot's Club. There's also a RV-4 at Warsaw. All together,
there are roughly 30 RV's flying in Indiana. Which airplane are you
building?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ 1.5 hours
Kokomo, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and
>was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in
>about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect,
>similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on
>the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a
>couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent
>all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up
>a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of
>days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the
>first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and
>nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an
>hour.
>
>Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
>could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
>from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches
>of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result.
>
>Vince Welch
>RV-8A
>
>Vince,
How did you seal your fuel tank caps? They are NOT air tight. I placed a
piece of plastic over the filler hole, then installed the caps, then duct
taped over them. This worked pretty well. I still had a couple of seeping
rivets that I did not find during the leak test but they were easily fixed
later. Drain the tank, drill out the rivet, install a sealed end pop rivet
with some proseal and it's fixed.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Tank Leak Test - long |
I thought I would share my fuel tank test episode with the group. Its long
so delete now if you're not interested.
I waited about 2 weeks to do the leak test on my tanks. I wanted to make
sure they were completely cured before messing around with them. I ended up
sealing the fuel sender and fuel pick up gaskets with a product called "fuel
lube". I also sealed the threads on all screws with it as well.
For the leak test, I used Will Cretsinger's notes and constructed a
"manometer" out of a water level hose. I first sealed vent line fitting by
making a fitting using some left over 1/4" tubing and one of the flare nuts
from the fuselage kit. I crimped the end of the 1/4" tubing and squished it
in a vise to seal it. I then made up a fitting for the manometer to hook to.
I did this by using a short piece of the 3/8" tubing and again a flare nut
from the fuse kit and screwed the piece onto the fuel pick up fitting. I
then hooked the manometer to the end of the 3/8" tube (you can see a picture
of the manometer I made on my website at "Tanks page 3").
The Manometer is simply a clear hose hooked to the fuel pick up and then
looped downward with a "U" shape at the bottom and the other end tied off
higher than the tank. Water is poured into the tube to fill the bottom of
the "U" but not enough for it to go into the tank. I made a mark on the tube
where the water line is with no pressure on the tank. I then gently added
pressure (via blowing into the fuel drain valve) to the tank until the water
level rose 15" in the clear tube. The new water level was then marked on the
tube. No movement of the water means no leak.
Well, the water started slowly moving don the tube toward my original "no
pressure" mark. I got out the spray bottle and my grandson's "Mr. Bubble"
and sprayed the fuel cap. Bubble started immediately pouring out of the
center section of the fuel cap and some around the edges of it. Off came the
fuel cap, tightened the center bolt down some, smeared fuel lube all around
the rubber "O" ring gasket and covered the center bolt thoroughly. Fuel cap
back on, re-pressurize and spray the fuel cap again with "Mr. Bubbles". No
leak. No movement of water line.
I came back in an hour and the water line had moved down about 1" - drats a
leak!!! Mr Bubble was sprayed on every rivet line and every seam of the root
rib. No leaks found. Well I couldn't reach the baffle rivets and end rib
seams with the tank mounted, so off with the tank and over the workbench.
Re-hook up manometer, pressurize, Mr. Bubble sprayed on every rivet and seal
of the baffle and end rib of the tank. No leaks??!! What the heck is going
on? Well I just left it sit and went in the house to read the archives and
try to solve this riddle. Came back out in about two hours and the water
level had not moved at all.
Remounted the tank, hooked it all back up and pressurized the tank again.
This time the water level didn't move for about 1 hour, then it started
moving upward (above the water line mark)???? How could it be increasing in
pressure just sitting there? While I was standing there scratching my head,
the air conditioning in my garage kicked on and it finally dawned on me what
was happening. The A/C in my garage is set up with only one large output and
that big vent is directly in front of my wing jig. The cold air blows right
on the tank was testing. I turned the A/C off, and waited for about 10
minutes and the water level started to rise in the tube. A/C on and down the
water level went. As the tank got cold, the pressure in it went down. As it
warmed back up, the pressure increased.
Well now that I had my answer, I turned off the A/C and waited for several
hours while the temp in the garage and tank stabilized. 24 hours later, the
water level has not moved at all off the water mark. YAAAHOOOOO -- no
leaks!!!
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing skinning)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
Subject: | Tennessee RV Builders E-Group |
http://www.egroups.com/group/TennesseeRVBuilders
Above is the link to the new Tennessee RV Builders E-Group. There is also a
link on the main page at Vans Airforce's World Wide Wing page.
Please join this group if you are an RV builder in Tennessee.
Thanks!
Brian Chesteen
RV-6 (Emp Ordered)
Newport, Tennessee
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
> I think it might be a bit much to stick 200HP in a -4(?)
>
A bit much? Is there any such thing? :-)
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
I used Hobby Store bulk super glue (sold under various trade names....2.5 oz.
applicator bottles). There are three thicknesses of this stuff. I used the real
thin mix ( this stuff is thinner than water-if thats possible). Anyway, a drop
or two of this stuff wicks under the rivet head and a shot of activator (spray
pump bottle- same brand as the super glue) instantly ( and I mean instantly)
sets the "wicked-in" super glue. Took ten minutes to do entire tank and I
never had a leak. Now, I know my riveting of the pro-seal-ed tanks should
have produced some leaks. I think this method of sealing saved the day for me.
BTW the Mooney folks sell a kit simular to this for lots of $$$. That is where
I
got the idea.
vwelch(at)knownet.net on 08/08/2000 08:26:24 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Tank Leak
Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and
was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in
about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect,
similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on
the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a
couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent
all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up
a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of
days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the
first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and
nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an
hour.
Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches
of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
Subject: | Re: Builders Groups |
Tom,
Please include me in your mailing list.
Bob Waalkes
502 Corvette Dr.
LaPorte, IN 46350
219-874-7990
Thanks.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Builders Groups
>
>Bob,
>
> I maintain the mailing list for the Chicago Area group. We lost our
>editor to cancer last year and since my engine arrived, I have not been
real
>eager to publish newsletters. However, I do publish an abbreviated program
>prior to the two or three annual events that we plan each year.
>
> If you or other readers will send me your mailing address, type of
project,
>and phone number, I will include you in the next mailing coming up soon.
>This mailing is prompted by our annual fall picnic which is usually the
last
>Sunday in September at Casa de Aero in Hampshire, IL. The date has not
been
>firmed up as yet. We usually have people from all the neighboring states
>represented.
>
>Tom Barnes (junior editor)
>904 Saxon Place
>Buffalo Grove, IL 60089
>847-541-6072
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bob Waalkes <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 12:06 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Builders Groups
>
>
>>
>> I am beginning construction on an RV-8 QB and wondering if there is a
>> builder's group in my area. I live about an hour SE of Chicago in
>LaPorte,
>> IN. I am a first time builder and looking for all the help I can get. I
>> have searched the internet and Van's site. There is a Chicago Area
RVator
>> but the number is invalid. Thanks for your help.
>>
>> Bob Waalkes
>> RV-8 QB Emp.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Try a baloon that has no pinhole in it.
cecil
writes:
>
> Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right
> tank and
> was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon
> deflates in
> about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak
> detect,
> similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a
> couple on
> the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these,
> waited a
> couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I
> spent
> all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I
> mixed up
> a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a
> couple of
> days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find
> bubble the
> first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting
> and
> nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about
> half an
> hour.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if
> I
> could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer
> home
> from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15
> inches
> of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same
> result.
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
A good question for the archives...
I was putting the carb on my Lycoming O-360 the other night with the hardware
supplied by Lycoming and I noticed that they did not include anything in the kit
to safety the nuts that hold the carb on. What am I suppose to use here? It
would ruin my whole day to suck one of those up into my carb on take off.
The same thing is true of the mixture and throttle cables that terminate down by
the carb. Big nuts, no safety.
Help!
- Jim Andrews
RV-8Aq ( Engine stuff )
N89JA (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Finn,
I'm to lazy to look it up but you might sneak by because you aren't carrying
passengers. If there is an out that might be it.
Something to consider, in 30 years of observation, about 90% of the busted
homebuilt aircraft I have seen were done during 'high speed' taxiing. If you
think about it, it accomplishes nothing and puts the airplane and you in the
most awkward situation you can be in.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
> There is another correlation too. Builders who use two cans of proseal will
> be hauling around an unneeded can of proseal for the rest of the airframe's
> life!!
Maybe they are but their tanks don't leak
>
>
> If you follow the instructions, clean everything, and make sure you provide
> adequate coverage, you will build a tank that lasts forever and won't leak.
> No flame intended, but you really don't need to put a ton of the stuff on
> everything. And worst case, if you do develop a leak, you can easily cut a
> hole in the rear baffle immediately adjacent to the leak, repair the leak,
> and proseal a plate on.
This is not as easy as you make it sound. I would rather have used lots of
proseal and not have to cut open the tank to fix a leak.
> I had one small leak in mine that I could reach
> through the end plate.
Since you had a small leak could you tell us how much proseal you used? I will
admit that I used 2/3 can for both tanks and had small leaks in both tanks. I
was able to fix both leaks without cutting into the tanks.
> I think the hype on building the tanks is much worse
> than the reality of it. However, if you are building a sliding canopy,
> well......your fun is just beginning. (Just kidding, the canopy isn't that
> hard either. I know if I keep saying that, it will come true someday.)
I agree, I had fits with the canopy. The second one is easier.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Krhooper(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I had similar results. Soaped everything and found the cap leaking. Finally
> went to Home Depot and bought a plumber's test plug ( 2 1/2 " I think) Ballon
> tested no leaks.
This has probably been said before but I stretched a surgical glove over the cap
and then installed the cap. No leaks.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
Gary, Gary, Gary.
Garry "6" finishing
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> The most vile and hideous substance know to man is not ProSeal, its called
> Epoxy resin.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A N99PZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> > I think it might be a bit much to stick 200HP in a -4(?)
> >
>
> A bit much? Is there any such thing? :-)
Most definitely YES.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
> When Avgas hits 5$ a gallon it will be.
>
> Craig
>
AHHHHHHAHAHHHHH!!!!!!! Now I'm going to have nightmares for a week.
Thanks ALOT Craig. Geeze, you could have been less traumatic on me by
telling me Bush will win the Presidency. AHHH, now I'm going to have two
nightmares for a weeek. :-)
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Carbon fiber... |
Finn said:
> I'll let you in on a little secret: Van has worked real hard to deliver
> low cost high performance kits. In order to compensate for this low
> cost, builders buy the most expensive tools, add-ons and materials they
> can get their hands on (avionics, upholstery, paint, fiber, epoxy,
> etc.) :)
>
> Finn
And your point is....?
;-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
With respect to the amount of Proseal to use, I did both tanks with a single
1 qt can (half full from Van's) and still have enough left over for
incidentals like the firewall, etc. It is simply not necessary to use gobs of
the stuff, and I believe that a lot of the bad press Proseal gets is due to
having to handle too much of it. My tanks were tested with air at 48" of
water using a homemade manometer without leakage except for the caps, as
others have pointed out. I put a temporary fiber washer behind the "o"-ring
to fix that. Other than a weird bruising of both thumbnails from (I guess) 10
hours of wearing latex gloves, the job was no sweat. One point to pass on to
others contemplating the tanks is to be sure to wipe the Proseal off each
rivet tail and your bucking bar before setting the rivet. The stuff is slick
as snot and you can easily get tipped rivets if things are not clean. Also, I
don't think that the tank dies are any advantage, at least in warm climates.
The Proseal that Van's sells is not very viscous and will easily flow out
from under the rivet head. You do not need or want a space between the rivet
and the skin for the Proseal. It only takes a molecular film thickness to
provide a seal between the rivet and the skin. I did my first tank using the
tank dies and the secons without. The second went much easier with fewer
tipped rivets. Its possible that in colder climates or if using older
formulations of Proseal the tank dies might be better. Your mileage may vary.
Andy Johnson, fuselage floor fabrication.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcACHEU6kkRurkA3SI+1RQkygk+ZkAAABLzA
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Nut safety
Jim,
The carb on the 0-360 uses interal lockwashers to help hold the nuts in
place. Always use a regular washer underneath the lockwasher. Call me
paranoid, but right before the first flight I replaced every lockwasher
in the engine compartment. I did it to force myself into checking the
torque of all the nuts. I found a few loose ones. On the carb I was a
little paranoid, so I used a small amount of blue locktite on the studs
the carb attaches to, in addition to the lockwashers with the regular
nuts.
As far as the cable attachments go, use drilled shank/castle nuts on the
mixture and throttle arms when you attach the cables. If you're talking
about the nuts on the cables themselves, the prober rod-end will prevent
the nut from coming off and going anywhere.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ 1.5 hours
>I was putting the carb on my Lycoming O-360 the other night with the
hardware
>supplied by Lycoming and I noticed that they did not include anything
in the kit
>to safety the nuts that hold the carb on. What am I suppose to use
here? It
>would ruin my whole day to suck one of those up into my carb on take
off.
>
>The same thing is true of the mixture and throttle cables that
terminate down by
>the carb. Big nuts, no safety.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
Subject: | auto gas engines - was: Engine worth? |
Speaking of....
How about a discussion on auto gas engines for RV's... A good 180hp to
200hp should do...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - N8VD - Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Craig Hiers
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine worth?
When Avgas hits 5$ a gallon it will be.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Gang,
Jerry beat me to it. As he has very clearly stated, NO additional
ratings/endorsements are required to operate experimental aircraft other
than the basic pilot certificate. The easy way to think about this is that
if the pilot's certificate is listed in paragraph (a) of 61.5 then you need
to worry about it. But if it is listed as a rating in paragraph (b) of 61.5
then you do not need it to operate an experimental aircraft.
Thanks Jerry for answering this quickly.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
RV-8A
>From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 20:50:24 -0700
>
>
>I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the
>FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel
>experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and
>based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel
>endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which
>lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not
>apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft
>under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type
>certificate."
>
>Jerry Springer
>
>
>Bob DiMeo - Oracle wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > Finn,
> >
> > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an
> > Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could get
> > away with flying without a AMEL ticket.
> > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better
> > license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two
>engines on
> > it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. :
)
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bob
> > RV8 #423
> >
> > > ----------
> > > From: Finn Lassen
> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM
> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> > >
> > >
> > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT
> > > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
> > >
> > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does not
> > > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't apply
> > > to homebuilts.
> > >
> > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance
> > > requirements, nor good sense.
> > >
> > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers
>plus
> > > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my
>RV-3.
> > > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane and
> > > instructor to get the endorsement.
> > >
> > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3, even
> > > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down
>the
> > > runway.)
> > >
> > > Finn
> > >
> > >
> > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
>Something to consider, in 30 years of observation, about 90% of the busted
>homebuilt aircraft I have seen were done during 'high speed' taxiing. If
>you
>think about it, it accomplishes nothing and puts the airplane and you in
>the
>most awkward situation you can be in.
>Bob
I agree 100%. Airplanes are flying machines...not high speed ground
vehicles. Taxi only enough to verify brake function and directional
control. A tailwheel airplane takes on a personality all it's own right when
the tail comes up but it's not quite ready to fly. The idea is to get
through that zone as quickly as possible and FLY IT.
My .02 worth.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
125 tailwheel hours and still have a lot to learn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | menavrat(at)collins.rockwell.com |
Subject: | Flying RV's in Phoenix area?? |
5.0.3 (Intl)|21 March 2000) at 08/09/2000 12:17:39 PM
I will be in Phoenix, Arizona on business next week from the 16th through
the 23rd. Wondering if there's anybody in the area with an RV who I could
go flying with while there (or is it so hot that airplanes can't fly in
Phoenix this time of year?!). I haven't been to this part of AZ before so
I think it would be fun to see some of it from the air. Will cheerfully
help pay for gas, buy lunch, whatever. It would sure beat sitting around
in a hotel (especially over the weekend of the 19th/20th).
Please reply off-list.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A wings......left one is coming out of the jig today....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Jim,
If my memory serves me correctly, which could be very questionable here,
there are supposed to be lock washers under those particular nuts.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Nut safety
>Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 10:19:20 -0500
>
>
>A good question for the archives...
>
>I was putting the carb on my Lycoming O-360 the other night with the
>hardware
>supplied by Lycoming and I noticed that they did not include anything in
>the kit
>to safety the nuts that hold the carb on. What am I suppose to use here?
>It
>would ruin my whole day to suck one of those up into my carb on take off.
>
>The same thing is true of the mixture and throttle cables that terminate
>down by
>the carb. Big nuts, no safety.
>
>Help!
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8Aq ( Engine stuff )
>N89JA (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Do I understand you correctly???
You have spent years building your dream plane. Why are you dragging your
heels over getting current, safe with a tail wheel instructor? Even if it
takes 10 hours, isn't your life and the plane you spent so much time worth
doing right?
Find someone that has a Citabria and take some dual. A friend of mine did
that and then flew out to Oregon to take some RV-6 dual.
What are you trying to save after putting 10s of thousands of Dollars into
your plane???
You may not agree with the REGs but you haven't shown me that you have set
up a responsible alternative!!!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
> Thanks Jerry and all others who responded.
>
> It looks like I lucked out. This is what the FA inspector put in my
operating
> limitations:
> "15. The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class
rating, or
> an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must
meet the
> requirements of paragraph 61.31 (e), (f), (g), (h), (I), and (j) as
appropriate".
>
> Well, if 61.31 (k) says it doesn't apply, then I guess the above is not
"as
> appropriate".
>
> Finn
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> >
> > I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the
> > FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel
> > experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and
> > based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel
> > endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which
> > lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not
> > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft
> > under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type
> > certificate."
> >
> > Jerry Springer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Engine worth? |
--- Bill Shook wrote:
>
>
> > When Avgas hits 5$ a gallon it will be.
> >
> > Craig
> >
>
>
> AHHHHHHAHAHHHHH!!!!!!! Now I'm going to have nightmares for a week.
> Thanks ALOT Craig. Geeze, you could have been less traumatic on me
> by
> telling me Bush will win the Presidency. AHHH, now I'm going to have
> two
> nightmares for a weeek. :-)
Ummm... he will.
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Cheeezz...I hate it when I hit send too quickly.
There is a caveat here to this....The operating limitations!!! Undere the
newer Order 8130.2D there must be included a paragraph that states:"The
pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a category/class rating, or an
authoriized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot in command must
meet the requirementsof para. 61.31(e), (f), (g), (h), (i), and (j) as
appropriate."
This paragraph was not necessarily required on the earlier issued operating
limitations except in the case where the issuing person was sharp. The only
way to tell is to look at your particular operating limitations and see if
this paragraph is included. If it is not have fun and a good day.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 07:10:19 HST
>
>
>Gang,
>
>Jerry beat me to it. As he has very clearly stated, NO additional
>ratings/endorsements are required to operate experimental aircraft other
>than the basic pilot certificate. The easy way to think about this is that
>if the pilot's certificate is listed in paragraph (a) of 61.5 then you need
>to worry about it. But if it is listed as a rating in paragraph (b) of 61.5
>then you do not need it to operate an experimental aircraft.
>
>Thanks Jerry for answering this quickly.
>
>Mike Robertson
>Das Fed
>RV-8A
>
>
> >From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> >Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 20:50:24 -0700
> >
> >
> >I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number two man in the
> >FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to fly tailwheel
> >experimentals. His response was that he thought it was not needed, and
> >based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a tailwheel
> >endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR 61.31(k)(2)(iii) which
> >lists the exceptions and you well find it says this section does not
> >apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an aircraft
> >under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type
> >certificate."
> >
> >Jerry Springer
> >
> >
> >Bob DiMeo - Oracle wrote:
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > Finn,
> > >
> > > I don't believe the Aircam is classified as an Experimental but an
> > > Ultralight, I could be wrong but that's the only way the pilot could
>get
> > > away with flying without a AMEL ticket.
> > > Since you must fly an experimental on a Recreational Pilot or better
> > > license, you will need the tail wheel endorsement. If you put two
> >engines on
> > > it, you will need to get an AMEL license too. :
)
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Bob
> > > RV8 #423
> > >
> > > > ----------
> > > > From: Finn Lassen
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 08:37 PM
> > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Can anybody show why FAR 63.31 (I) (tail wheel endorsement), is NOT
> > > > applicable to an RV-3 built by the owner/pilot?
> > > >
> > > > I was just told today by someone that the twin engine AirCam does
>not
> > > > require the multiengine signoff, implying that FAR 63.31 doesn't
>apply
> > > > to homebuilts.
> > > >
> > > > What I'm asking about here is just to be legal, not insurance
> > > > requirements, nor good sense.
> > > >
> > > > Actually, by now I have more than 10 hours in various taildraggers
> >plus
> > > > more than 5 hours slow and highspeed (tail up and down) taiing my
> >RV-3.
> > > > It's just that I no longer have fairly easy access to an airplane
>and
> > > > instructor to get the endorsement.
> > > >
> > > > (I would like to be able to announce the first flight of my RV-3,
>even
> > > > if it would be an inadvertent crow hop with subsequent bounces down
> >the
> > > > runway.)
> > > >
> > > > Finn
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
I have about 800 hrs tailwheel time. When my plane is done, I won't have
flown a taildragger for about 2 years. I intend to get some dual in a
Citabria and practice, practice, practice my takeoffs and landings. I also
intend to take the RV transition "ride" with Mike Seager. My opinion is
that if you haven't had any tailwheel time, please don't try to teach
yourself how to takeoff and land a T/W aircraft in your new baby. Get a
good tailwheel instructor and let him show you the ropes. They don't fly any
different but boy do they taxi, takeoff, and land different!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)qcbc.org]
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 10:45 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really
required?
Do I understand you correctly???
You have spent years building your dream plane. Why are you
dragging your
heels over getting current, safe with a tail wheel
instructor? Even if it
takes 10 hours, isn't your life and the plane you spent so
much time worth
doing right?
Find someone that has a Citabria and take some dual. A
friend of mine did
that and then flew out to Oregon to take some RV-6 dual.
What are you trying to save after putting 10s of thousands
of Dollars into
your plane???
You may not agree with the REGs but you haven't shown me
that you have set
up a responsible alternative!!!
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really
required?
>
> Thanks Jerry and all others who responded.
>
> It looks like I lucked out. This is what the FA inspector
put in my
operating
> limitations:
> "15. The pilot in command of this aircraft shall hold a
category/class
rating, or
> an authorized instructor's logbook endorsement. The pilot
in command must
meet the
> requirements of paragraph 61.31 (e), (f), (g), (h), (I),
and (j) as
appropriate".
>
> Well, if 61.31 (k) says it doesn't apply, then I guess the
above is not
"as
> appropriate".
>
> Finn
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> >
> > I asked Rick Crammer(sp) who used to be like the number
two man in the
> > FAA chain the question about tailwheel endorsement to
fly tailwheel
> > experimentals. His response was that he thought it was
not needed, and
> > based that on FAR 61.31(i)(1)which does state that a
tailwheel
> > endorsement is required. Now go to section FAR
61.31(k)(2)(iii) which
> > lists the exceptions and you well find it says this
section does not
> > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when
operating an aircraft
> > under the authority of an experimental or provisional
aircraft type
> > certificate."
> >
> > Jerry Springer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
In a message dated 8/9/00 8:34:16 AM Central Daylight Time,
rpflanze(at)iquest.net writes:
<< There is another correlation too. Builders who use two cans of proseal
will
be hauling around an unneeded can of proseal for the rest of the airframe's
life!!
>>
Randy,
I agree with you. I only used 2/3 of a can for both tanks and the only leak
I had was the one I took after drinking a can of Sprite while reading Gary's
message.
Eric Newton Long Beach, MS
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
In a message dated 8/9/2000 2:10:58 PM Central Daylight Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<< I have about 800 hrs tailwheel time. When my plane is done, I won't have
flown a taildragger for about 2 years. I intend to get some dual in a
Citabria and practice, practice, practice my takeoffs and landings. I also
intend to take the RV transition "ride" with Mike Seager. My opinion is
that if you haven't had any tailwheel time, please don't try to teach
yourself how to takeoff and land a T/W aircraft in your new baby. Get a
good tailwheel instructor and let him show you the ropes. They don't fly any
different but boy do they taxi, takeoff, and land different!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE >>
This is not what he asked. He asked if he legally has to have a tail wheel
endorsement to fly his aricraft. Thats all. He specifially asked that
insurance and questions about how smart it is to fly with out not be brought
up. Maybe more people would stay on this list if people actually read the
questions people asked and responded to those questions, instead of judging
the people asking the questions.
Once again the question is: Is it legal to fly a RV 3 without a taildragger
endorsement.
I think that has been answered and comments flying without training should
stop since Finn never said he would fly without tail dragger time, he justed
asked if the endorsement was necessary.
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket builder
PS for the record I will get my tailwheel endorsement before flyiing my F1
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
Subject: | Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
>any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with
avgas
>like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing
down
>real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when
attaching
>the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could
do
>the job better?
I just took it out to the back patio and filled it up with the garden
hose. Dried it off and re-cleaned before installing the back baffle. No
leaks. Will do this on the second tank this weekend. Used only about 1/2
can of sealant for both tanks, still hate the stuff.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks.
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel endorsement,
I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I
don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as
Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you when
you least expect it. Scott has the right approach.
My concern was and still is Finn's lack of tail wheel experience. A few
sporadic tail wheel flights that Finn lists does not replace the intensive
learning necessary to control a taildragger. It may be legal to fly your
homebuilt without the Tailwheel endorsement but why take the chance. Many
dollars, lots of time building can be wiped out by just a little tail wheel
problem. Loosing it on landing at a flyin could also cost an innocent
bystander's plane.
Even people with experience can lose it. We had a Cessna 195 lose it on
take off at Oshkosh. We had a Starduster that we had to re-weld a landing
gear that dropped it in landing. Both high time experienced pilots.
And yet, Finn is quibbling about the legality of getting a TW endorsement. I
know people don't like to be told what to do, but let's be practical. The
first 10 hours in my old Bellanca were required by the insurance company
even though I had almost 200 hours in taildraggers. The first 5 hours were
very humiliating. I was glad the CFI was along.
Most home built accidents happen in the first or second flight. Shouldn't
you try to get the odds in your favor?
What will you tell the accident inspector when you do lose it if you don't
have the endorsement???
What will you tell your insurance company???
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <CW9371(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
> In a message dated 8/9/2000 2:10:58 PM Central Daylight Time,
> svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
>
> << I have about 800 hrs tailwheel time. When my plane is done, I won't
have
> flown a taildragger for about 2 years. I intend to get some dual in a
> Citabria and practice, practice, practice my takeoffs and landings. I
also
> intend to take the RV transition "ride" with Mike Seager. My opinion is
> that if you haven't had any tailwheel time, please don't try to teach
> yourself how to takeoff and land a T/W aircraft in your new baby. Get a
> good tailwheel instructor and let him show you the ropes. They don't fly
any
> different but boy do they taxi, takeoff, and land different!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE >>
>
>
> This is not what he asked. He asked if he legally has to have a tail
wheel
> endorsement to fly his aricraft. Thats all. He specifially asked that
> insurance and questions about how smart it is to fly with out not be
brought
> up. Maybe more people would stay on this list if people actually read the
> questions people asked and responded to those questions, instead of
judging
> the people asking the questions.
>
> Once again the question is: Is it legal to fly a RV 3 without a
taildragger
> endorsement.
>
> I think that has been answered and comments flying without training should
> stop since Finn never said he would fly without tail dragger time, he
justed
> asked if the endorsement was necessary.
>
> Chris Wilcox
> F1 rocket builder
>
> PS for the record I will get my tailwheel endorsement before flyiing my
F1
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
I am in the market for an alternator for a 160HP Lycoming to go in my
RV-6A. I have located a "remanufactured" Nippon/Dienso alternator for a
'90 Nissan Sentra for $90.00. It is rated at 70 Amps and does have a
built in voltage regulator.
Is this what I want??? If not, what should I look for (looking for 60
amp alt to run full IFR panel, plus strobes, landing lights, etc.)
Charlie Brame
RV6A-QB
On the gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Hi Jim,
why did you change power plants to the LOM?
I know I know you just wanted to say mines
got a super charger and it pulls more chicks
on the apron!! :o) argh seriously though I'm
just curious and have others done this as well?
Bruce
>--> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
>
>Hi All,
>
>When I had the O-290 in my RV-3, I normally flew at at 165 mph true ias
>between 9,500' and 11,500' for cross country flights. I frequently flew with
>another RV-3, N51RV, which was powered by an IO-320. We consistantly burned
>6.0 gph.
>
>The LOM M332A engine (245 cu.in.) at 160 mph true ias burns 5.0 gph, and at
>175-180 mph true ias at 9,500' burns 6.2 gph.
>
>I am in the process of completely rewiring my RV-3. I am installing a
>Microair 760 COM and a fuelscan (Matronics) fuel flow meter. I thought I
>might find a sweet spot in fuel consumption by varying the mp and rpm at a
>given air speed.
>
>Jim Ayers
>RV-3 N47RV (Why does an annual take more than a year?) :-(
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Subject: | Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop |
From: | Tom Brandon <majortom(at)apex.net> |
Henry gives small builders classes at his shop near Portland. Right now we
have 4 for the next class & I think thats the maximum number he wants in a
class. If anyone drops out, I'll let you know if you'd like.
Tom Brandon
> From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 22:51:45 -0500
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop
>
>
> I know I missed the first couple of threads on this subject.... But when and
> where is the Henry Gorgas Builder Work Shop?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I got a 14118 (50 amp with external regulator[VR749]for $35.00 (no
core).
Don't have it on yet. waiting for a hanger mount from Van's.
GlassAir driver indicated I should get a 87 Honda Civic. Haven't been to
the store to look , but they all look big.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
>
> I am in the market for an alternator for a 160HP Lycoming to go in
> my RV-6A. I have located a "remanufactured" Nippon/Dienso alternator
> for a '90 Nissan Sentra for $90.00. It is rated at 70 Amps and does
have a
> built in voltage regulator.
>
> Is this what I want??? If not, what should I look for (looking for
> 60 amp alt to run full IFR panel, plus strobes, landing lights, etc.)
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV6A-QB
> On the gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>I am in the market for an alternator for a 160HP Lycoming to go in my
>RV-6A. I have located a "remanufactured" Nippon/Dienso alternator for a
>'90 Nissan Sentra for $90.00. It is rated at 70 Amps and does have a
>built in voltage regulator.
>
>Is this what I want??? If not, what should I look for (looking for 60
>amp alt to run full IFR panel, plus strobes, landing lights, etc.)
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV6A-QB
>On the gear.
What you've found would be okay . . . but a 40A machine is plenty
big. Can you find a smaller (and lighter) machine for less $$$$
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | marksnow(at)cavemen.net (Mark Snow) |
Subject: | Auto pilot for sale |
Lister's,
I have for sale a century III Auto pilot pulled from an undamaged home
built. Working when pulled. It consist of the following items.
Mitchell attitude gyro model 52D67
Mitchell directional gyro model 52d54
Control switch box model 1c404
Computer with mounting tray model1c515-3
Altitude hold chamber model 1c407
Roll servo model 1c363-1-373r
Pitch servo model 1c373-6-471
Wiring harness (probably home made)
Asking $2000, would prefer to sell as a complete system. Please reply off
list.
Thanks ..........Mark Snow
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
In a message dated 8/9/2000 4:07:48 PM Central Daylight Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
<<
Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel endorsement,
I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I
don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as
Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you when
you least expect it. Scott has the right approach.
My concern was and still is Finn's lack of tail wheel experience. A few
sporadic tail wheel flights that Finn lists does not replace the intensive
learning necessary to control a taildragger. It may be legal to fly your
homebuilt without the Tailwheel endorsement but why take the chance. Many
dollars, lots of time building can be wiped out by just a little tail wheel
problem. Loosing it on landing at a flyin could also cost an innocent
bystander's plane.
Even people with experience can lose it. We had a Cessna 195 lose it on
take off at Oshkosh. We had a Starduster that we had to re-weld a landing
gear that dropped it in landing. Both high time experienced pilots.
And yet, Finn is quibbling about the legality of getting a TW endorsement. I
know people don't like to be told what to do, but let's be practical. The
first 10 hours in my old Bellanca were required by the insurance company
even though I had almost 200 hours in taildraggers. The first 5 hours were
very humiliating. I was glad the CFI was along.
Most home built accidents happen in the first or second flight. Shouldn't
you try to get the odds in your favor?
What will you tell the accident inspector when you do lose it if you don't
have the endorsement???
What will you tell your insurance company???
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! >>
Once again this was not what finn asked about. the horse dead, leave it
alone. He justed asked if it was legal. It maybe depending on what the DAR
who signs off the aircraft says.
He didnt ask if it was smart, he didnt ask if you would do it. He didnt even
ask if the insurance company would cover him. In fact he specifically stated
he didn't want to know about those things. He just wanted to know if it was
legal.
You could have 800 of tail wheel time and no endorsement. That is possible,
not likely but its possible. All he asked about was the endoresement.
In regards to the Starduster if that was at Airventure I know the owner and
pilot.
CHris WIlcox
F1 rocket kit 000
PS I dont think a RV3 is a high perfomance tail dragger or is it?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
No it isn't Bob. Get back to work.
Wa Ching Yu.
System Administrator
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
> Charlie,
>
> The 35 amp alternator Van's sells is plenty, unless your installing a
> sound system with a few amplifiers and 15" woofers. Then you have other
> problems.
>
> Is it time to go home yet?
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 1.5 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
In a message dated 08/09/2000 2:19:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bruce@triton-dive.com writes:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com>
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> why did you change power plants to the LOM?
It was just an interesting challenge to install a smaller engine to make my
RV-3 fly faster and farther. It works. I have heard that a few others that
are doing this, also.
I replaced a Lyc O-290 (289 cu. in.) with the LOM M332A (245 cu. in.)
The supercharger was just a guarantee that it would be faster. :-)
Lyc O-290 (est 130 hp)
LOM M332A (115 hp without supercharger & 140 hp with supercharger)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop |
Tom,
Hi! Yes, I am definitely coming to the workshop. Clay Killion and I are both
arriving in Portland Wed. evening. We will be renting a car and driving from
there. I will call Clay this evening to talk about motel reservations. I
think Henry said the Safari Inn was the place to stay.
When are you guys getting into Portland?
Cheers!
George True
Tom Brandon wrote:
>
> Hi George:
> I spoke to Henry Gorgas today and he wanted me to contact everyone to make
> sure you're still coming to the class.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Brandon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
I know what his question was. However, to merely give a yes or no answer to
the legality of tailwheel endorsments (which I am not able to comment upon)
without addressing the wisdom of undertaking the first flight without some
sort of tailwheel training (which I can comment upon) would be doing Finn
and anyone else contemplating such an endeavor a great disservice.
I will render my opinion any time I see fit to render it. If you do not
like my opinion I suggest you do not take it to heart.
Flame away. I can hit the delete button as easily as you.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: CW9371(at)AOL.COM [mailto:CW9371(at)AOL.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 12:22 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really
required?
In a message dated 8/9/2000 2:10:58 PM Central Daylight
Time,
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com writes:
<< I have about 800 hrs tailwheel time. When my plane is
done, I won't have
flown a taildragger for about 2 years. I intend to get
some dual in a
Citabria and practice, practice, practice my takeoffs and
landings. I also
intend to take the RV transition "ride" with Mike Seager.
My opinion is
that if you haven't had any tailwheel time, please don't
try to teach
yourself how to takeoff and land a T/W aircraft in your new
baby. Get a
good tailwheel instructor and let him show you the ropes.
They don't fly any
different but boy do they taxi, takeoff, and land
different!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE >>
This is not what he asked. He asked if he legally has to
have a tail wheel
endorsement to fly his aricraft. Thats all. He specifially
asked that
insurance and questions about how smart it is to fly with
out not be brought
up. Maybe more people would stay on this list if people
actually read the
questions people asked and responded to those questions,
instead of judging
the people asking the questions.
Once again the question is: Is it legal to fly a RV 3
without a taildragger
endorsement.
I think that has been answered and comments flying without
training should
stop since Finn never said he would fly without tail dragger
time, he justed
asked if the endorsement was necessary.
Chris Wilcox
F1 rocket builder
PS for the record I will get my tailwheel endorsement
before flyiing my F1
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
Subject: | Electric Horizons |
I called The Gyro House today to check on my RC Allen electric AH, and there
is a huge backorder of these things. Seems that the manufacturer has a
shortage of technical personel and cannot meet demand. It's been a while
since this came up, so has anyone put in one of the imports from Spruce?
Any other ideas for an electric horizon?
Jerry Carter
Memphis, TN
My RV-8A website:
http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
> Well Bob, I agree that taxiing with the tail up and at flying speeds is the most
> critical phase of flight (landings). For that same reason, doing it and getting
> decent at it, should prepare me well for that phase when it really counts: the
> actual landing.
There is one major flaw to this line of thinking; when an RV gets
airborne during a fast taxi it is not in landing configuration. What you
find yourself in is a predicament that you will not ever see in normal
flight. In a normal landing, flaps are deployed, airspeed is carefully
controlled, proper pitch attitude is maintained, P-factor is controlled,
and there is ample momentum to carry into the landing flair to prevent
"dropping" the plane.
None of the above attributes of a normal approach are present during the
unexpected "flight" you can/will make during high speed taxi tests. You
find yourself above the runway, the airspeed is all out of whack, the
pitch attitude is wrong for landing, the plane is trying to head for the
weeds, the flaps are up, and most likely, you weren't REALLY ready to
fly!
In my opinion (500 hrs tailgear, 165 hrs RV-6) high speed taxi testing
in an RV is bad news until you have the proper instruction and pink
airworthiness certificate in hand.
Matter of fact, I probably wouldn't do ANY high speed taxi until it was
time to fly. You will be much better off just punching the throttle and
getting your plane clear of the ground as soon as possible.
Believe me......I speak from experience.......
If an RV3/4/6/8 is going fast enough to get the tail off the ground, it
is going fast enough to commit aviation.
> On the other hand, doing kangaroo hops down the runway after a gust of wind made
> the plane fly is not the most elegant sight and sure wakes one up.
It is a very good way to wad up your plane.
> I guess the bottom line is that I'm ready to fly to the point where I can get
> the plane and me down in one piece, and then practice, practice, practice until
> I can do it effortlessly and with precision.
Finn, be sure you call me when you get the "effortlessly and with
precision" part solved......I am still trying figure it out..... :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 driver who still manages to have the occasional,
well..."interesting" landing)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
CW9371(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
All he asked about was the endoresement.
> In regards to the Starduster if that was at Airventure I know the owner and
> pilot.
>
> CHris WIlcox
> F1 rocket kit 000
>
> PS I dont think a RV3 is a high perfomance tail dragger or is it?
>
CHris the RV-3 is probably more of an high performance airplane than the
-4 or -6.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
I don't know, Brian, I would respectfully submit that I don't think you have
proven anything with the water. Fuel, after all, is of a different, less
viscous, molecular structure. I can't prove this, but it seems logical that
you might have a leak that water would not leak out of, but avgas would.
No?
Just my opinion, but I think the best way to leak check your tanks is to put
about 5 gallons of 100LL in them while they are still on the bench. Change
their positions every couple of days until every possible angle has been
checked. I left mine this way for a couple of weeks. If they leak, you're
gonna know about it when you see the telltale blue stain. After I was done
I just put the gas in my--nah, not going to start another thread!
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
RV-6, Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
>
>
> >any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with
> avgas
> >like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing
> down
> >real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when
> attaching
> >the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could
> do
> >the job better?
>
> I just took it out to the back patio and filled it up with the garden
> hose. Dried it off and re-cleaned before installing the back baffle. No
> leaks. Will do this on the second tank this weekend. Used only about 1/2
> can of sealant for both tanks, still hate the stuff.
>
> Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
> RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks.
> 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Fuse out of jig!!! |
--- Troy Whistman wrote:
>
>
> Congratulations, Ken! Now where did I put those
> oars? :-)
As I was working on my RV8 yesterday, which is proudly
standing on its gear with tailfeathers attached, a
delivery person from Airborne Express pulled up to
deliver a part. He asked, "What are you building?"
I did not feel his question was worthy of an answer
and said nothing. He asked again and I finally
responded, "A boat."
With a big smile he said "Cool !" and drove
away.--Note to self, stay with Fedex or UPS.
Rob Miller (Ok Ok so I'm not aviation's best
ambassador)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan(at)kconline.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Chris,
I don't have 800 hrs. taildragger time. But I have 880 tailwheel time
without a tailwheel endorsement. Do I qualify.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
P. S. Any low time tailwheel pilot that practices high speed taxi with the
tail up is one brick short of a full load. I've got a broke prop hanging in
my hanger to prove it. Fly it or land it. Don't do both at the same time. If
you want to practice anything to get ready to fly an RV taildragger, rent a
Cessna 150 and practice full stall landings. Although six hrs. in a Luscomb
helped me also.
----- Original Message -----
From: <CW9371(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
> In a message dated 8/9/2000 4:07:48 PM Central Daylight Time,
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
> You could have 800 of tail wheel time and no endorsement. That is
possible,
> not likely but its possible. All he asked about was the endoresement.
> In regards to the Starduster if that was at Airventure I know the owner
and
> pilot.
>
> CHris WIlcox
> F1 rocket kit 000
>
> PS I dont think a RV3 is a high perfomance tail dragger or is it?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
>Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel
endorsement,
>I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I
>don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as
>Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you
when
>you least expect it. Scott has the right approach.
Ok, what about my current situation. Been getting dual in the
Starduster for a while now, up to about 20 hours. But, the guys I have
been getting dual from are just the other guys in the partnership. (mostly
with an ex-AF pilot 5000+hours). They feel that I'm ready to solo the
plane. None of them are CFI's. I can't find anybody in the state of Utah
who does tailwheel instruction (two months of trying has resulted in only
one person who would even return my call to say he couldn't do it). So,
no endorsement. Hearing that it may be legal, I'm going to have to go
check the documents to see if it has the operating restriction. Would be
tairing my hair out of this if I had any left.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks.
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
i have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used
to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach
platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover
attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed)
the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second
rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something i
am missing?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | phlogiston spar/prime or not |
i realize the phlogiston spar i purchased has been treated. seems like i
read here at one time of a discussion of adding a layer of primer over top of
phlogiston ... is this a waste of primer and adding weight? i am using
variprime. no primer wars please. i started one several months ago and not
mean to do that again. adding any type of primer over any anodized pieces
necessary? bob in ark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Leak testing tanks before closing ? |
One messy way to check is to 'paint' something like diesel fuel over the
inside seams and dust talcum powder on the outside. The diesel will seep
trhu and stain the talcum.
Done this on many a tank and weld, however never on a half finished tank
to be prosealed.
Gert
Pat Hatch wrote:
>
>
> I don't know, Brian, I would respectfully submit that I don't think you have
> proven anything with the water. Fuel, after all, is of a different, less
> viscous, molecular structure. I can't prove this, but it seems logical that
> you might have a leak that water would not leak out of, but avgas would.
> No?
>
> Just my opinion, but I think the best way to leak check your tanks is to put
> about 5 gallons of 100LL in them while they are still on the bench. Change
> their positions every couple of days until every possible angle has been
> checked. I left mine this way for a couple of weeks. If they leak, you're
> gonna know about it when you see the telltale blue stain. After I was done
> I just put the gas in my--nah, not going to start another thread!
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4, N17PH @ VRB
> RV-6, Fuselage
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:24 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Leak testing tanks before closing ?
>
> >
> >
> > >any way to do this? The only idea I have is to fill the thing up with
> > avgas
> > >like a big cup and look for leaks... I know I'd have to swab the thing
> > down
> > >real good with MEK afterwards to make sure the ProSeal sticks when
> > attaching
> > >the rear baffle. Would this work? Is there some other fluid that could
> > do
> > >the job better?
> >
> > I just took it out to the back patio and filled it up with the garden
> > hose. Dried it off and re-cleaned before installing the back baffle. No
> > leaks. Will do this on the second tank this weekend. Used only about 1/2
> > can of sealant for both tanks, still hate the stuff.
> >
> > Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> > President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
> > RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks.
> > 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
> >
> >
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
Are you using a cleco to hold the other side of the platenut while you are
riveting?
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: platenut nuts
>
> i have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used
> to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach
> platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover
> attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed)
> the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second
> rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something
i
> am missing?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Sorry to hear of your predicament. What you do probably will be dictated by
your insurance company. You are flying a proven plane not test flying an
unproven plane at the same time trying to learn how to control a
taildragger. You obviously have had a check ride with your partners. You
will be flying in the same proven plane.
I wouldn't fly an RV without get a complete check out and I do own a
taildragger with several hundred hours. The pucker factor of test flying
without the additional load of learning to take off and land a taildragger
is high enough.
I will check with my "expert" Earl Lawrence of the EAA about the legality of
flying an experimental without a tail wheel endorsement. If one needs an
endorsement, Earl probably has a list of qualified CFIs.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
> >Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel
> endorsement,
> >I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I
> >don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours as
> >Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you
> when
> >you least expect it. Scott has the right approach.
>
> Ok, what about my current situation. Been getting dual in the
> Starduster for a while now, up to about 20 hours. But, the guys I have
> been getting dual from are just the other guys in the partnership. (mostly
> with an ex-AF pilot 5000+hours). They feel that I'm ready to solo the
> plane. None of them are CFI's. I can't find anybody in the state of Utah
> who does tailwheel instruction (two months of trying has resulted in only
> one person who would even return my call to say he couldn't do it). So,
> no endorsement. Hearing that it may be legal, I'm going to have to go
> check the documents to see if it has the operating restriction. Would be
> tairing my hair out of this if I had any left.
>
>
> Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
> RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks.
> 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
'Agree with Fred that my cap's leaked bad and so I greased the shaft under
the nut at the bottom of the cap and put a fillet around the nut to bottom
piece joint. Then inserted the cap in tank and covered very very carefully
with three pieces of clear packing tape. Two pieces were butt together over
the cap and the third over the seam. No leaking caps after that as far as I
could tell with my DIY manometer and "blowing bubbles" test, apologies to my
young ones for using up their classy bubble blowing bubbles.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Leak
>
> In a message dated 8/8/00 6:00:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> vwelch(at)knownet.net writes:
>
> << Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
> could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
> from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15
inches
> of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result.
>
> Vince Welch
> RV-8A
> >>
> Check the cap, a lot of them leak through the O-ring in the center
bolt.
> Fred LaForge So Cal.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Static discharge and KaaaaBooooommmmmm!!!!
Marty in Brentwood TN.
P.S. I've thought about this, but the idea is not all that appealing. 19
gals of fuel is a bit heavy to move and the tank will need to be well
supported, but I'm wondering if others have done this? Maybe only need to
use 10 gals. Car gas doesn't have the blue die and is very hard to see any
leaks, but some use of baby power on the outside, might show them up, like
our bubble test.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Leak
>
> How about filling it with avgas, pressurize it, and look for the blue
> stain where the gas leaks out?
>
> Tim Lewis
> snip<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John D. Heath" <jheath24(at)home.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
There comes a time when, all other things set aside( i.e. regulations,
etc. ), Common Sense must
prevail. Go take the ride, get the endorsement.
JDHeath ( Got my Nose Wheel check ride, early in 1959 )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:00 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
> > > > apply to "The holder of a pilot certificate when operating an
aircraft
> > > under the authority of an experimental or provisional aircraft type
> > > certificate."
> > >
> > > Jerry Springer
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "M. Delano" <mdelano(at)mho.net> |
I had a similar experience, I finally found the tank was OK--- the balloon
leaked.
Mark Delano
Tech. Counselor
6A Fus skins
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> How about filling it with avgas, pressurize it, and look for the blue
> stain where the gas leaks out?
>
> Tim Lewis
>
> On 8 Aug 00, at 20:26, Vince Welch wrote:
>
> >
> > Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and
> > was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in
> > about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect,
> > similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on
> > the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a
> > couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent
> > all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed
> > up a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple
> > of days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble
> > the first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and
> > nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an
> > hour.
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
> > could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
> > from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15
> > inches of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same
> > result.
> >
> > Vince Welch
> > RV-8A
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ******
> Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
> RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
> TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
> http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: phlogiston spar/prime or not |
Bob no primer over an anodized surface is neccessary
as the anodize is the corrosion preventative
Glenn
--- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> i realize the phlogiston spar i purchased has been
> treated. seems like i
> read here at one time of a discussion of adding a
> layer of primer over top of
> phlogiston ... is this a waste of primer and adding
> weight? i am using
> variprime. no primer wars please. i started one
> several months ago and not
> mean to do that again. adding any type of primer
> over any anodized pieces
> necessary? bob in ark
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
Did you remember to dimple the platenut? Also if you hold the platnut
in place with a cleco in the other hole while squeezing the other rivet
might help.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
>Always use a regular washer underneath the lockwasher (internal tooth).
This is how my engine was built also... I don't dispute that this is the
correct way to do it. However, could someone explain to me why this works?
It seems all this does is to rotationally lock the regular washer to the
bolt head. The bolt/internal tooth lock washer/regular washer assembly can
still turn out. How is this different than just having a bolt and regular
washer?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ENewton57(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
In a message dated 8/9/00 8:49:33 PM Central Daylight Time, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used
to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach
platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover
attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed)
the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second
rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something i
am missing? >>
Dimple the plate nuts as well.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi
RV-6A N57ME (Reserved) (wing skinning)
Eric's RV-6A
Construction Page
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post |
Gentlemen:
I am running a Bart Lablonde O-360 fuel injected Lycoming with a Lasar
Ignition on my RV4. Bart installed the Lasar system and the mags before
shipping. I now have 22 flying hours on the aircraft. I wanted to post my
experience with the Lasar ignition with the hope that it might help some else
and hopefully I can gain some insight as well. I checked the archives. The
only post that came close was posted in March 99 by Arthur Whitehead.
The engine starts OK and runs smooth when the Lasar unit is on. I know
when the Lasar it isn't on because of the indicator light on the panel comes
on when the unit turns off. The problem I am having is the unit turns on and
off at random in flight for indeterminate periods of time. Sometimes its a
minute, other times it stays off for five minutes. Never really timed the
actual down time. The unit must have turned on and off 15 times during the
1.5 hour flight today. It turned off on reduced power. Turned off on climb
power. Turned on and off at high cruise speed. Turns on and off at low
power cruise. Today when the unit turned on and off it, except for the
indicator light, it was barely noticeable. Most of the time when it happens
it causes the engine to skip a beat and definitely gets your attention. It
sounds like a backfire. Probably did backfire. The unit typically runs
continuously for the first 20 to 30 minutes.
Engine runup isn't what I would expect either. Initial engine runup is
to 1,800 rpm with the Lasar on. Switching to the left mag causes a 160 to
190 rpm drop. Back to both (now the Lasar is off) rpm goes to 1760. Right
mag sees about the same drop. Both mags when operated alone feel rough and
the tach reading (VM1000 - digital) isn't very stable. I tried increasing
the engine RPM back to 1800 after the Lasar was switched off. I still see
the 160 rpm drop off and a rough engine on a single mag. When the Lasar is
on, the engine is silky smooth. With both mags on, the engine exhibits a
slight roughness but the rpm is fairly steady.
The engine is newly rebuilt and the lower plugs have been exhibiting some
wet oil. I have cleaned the lower plugs four times in twenty hours. The
plug cleaning was done hoping to eliminate a tendency to backfire when hot at
idle. The upper plugs were pulled once and look OK.
In all other respects the engine seems to be operating within normal
parameters. I have a plenum chamber installed. All four of the cylinder
heads typically operate within 15 degrees F. At cruise I am seeing 335 to
350 F. with ambient air at 75F. Exhaust temps are indicating that they all
fall within a Max span of 50 degrees. Typical exhaust temps in cruise are
1450 F. Oil temp at cruise is between 185 and 195F.
The only other trait I am seeing is that the engine backfires at hot
idle. I have tried setting the throttle body mixture linkage leaner without
any effect. The engine as now set exhibits about a 10 to 20 rpm increase from
1000 rpm when being shutdown. The shutdown rpm change is a little difficult
to see as the readings aren't that stable and change in 10 rpm increments on
the screen. For a while I thought maybe the plugs just had some form of
fouling. Right now, I'm not quite sure what to make of it. I spoke with Bart
about the backfiring and have tried the cures recently posted with no effect.
I spoke with a technician from Unison - Lasar who was attending the
Oshkosh convention. He asked how old the unit was. I told him it was over
two years old but was just placed into service. He mentioned that they had
experienced some problems with the older units. He mentioned something about
a relay dropping in and out. He said he would get back to me with a fix.
As a final point, I never could get the Lasar tachometer input to
interface with the VM1000. I called Vision Micro several times and consulted
with Unison who referred me back to Vision Micro. I finally defaulted back to
using the transducer supplied with the VM1000. The transducer was in close
agreement with the tach sensor used during the prop balancing.
I would like to know. Does my system operate like your Lasar system? Do
you have rough mags during runup? Perhaps a backfire or two during taxi?
Tom Brown RV4
RV4Brown(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth? |
Yes, this is my question, what are we going to do when we can no longer get
100LL? Was just reading an article in Kit Planes Mag. regarding the future
availability of leaded aircraft fuel. Should I be looking for a low
compression auto gas compatable engine? Anyone have any insight on this?
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
Hooking up aileron pushrods
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rob Reece" <ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Hi Jim!
On your O-290G, the 130hp estimated. Was that 5hp above rated hp due to
running at a higher rpm, having a MA-4 carb vs. MA3-SPA, or other reasons?
Just curious if there is a simple accessory (e.g. larger carb, etc.) that
can give a few extra hp (in luie of using alternate
cranks/rods/pistons/heads/etc.) in the O-290 since I'm using one!
RV-3's forever!!!
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: <LessDragProd(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy
> --> RV3-List message posted by: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
>
> In a message dated 08/09/2000 2:19:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> bruce@triton-dive.com writes:
>
> > --> RV3-List message posted by: Bruce Stewart <bruce@triton-dive.com>
> >
> > Hi Jim,
> >
> > why did you change power plants to the LOM?
>
> It was just an interesting challenge to install a smaller engine to make
my
> RV-3 fly faster and farther. It works. I have heard that a few others
that
> are doing this, also.
>
> I replaced a Lyc O-290 (289 cu. in.) with the LOM M332A (245 cu. in.)
>
> The supercharger was just a guarantee that it would be faster. :-)
>
> Lyc O-290 (est 130 hp)
> LOM M332A (115 hp without supercharger & 140 hp with supercharger)
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
RV-6 HS
Ok I've tried it twice and I need help. I'm done riveting the HS except for
2 rivets that go through one of the HS405s and the HS610 and HS614
(AN470AD4-7s). The problem is the holes are a little too close to the flange
(still acceptable) to allow a flush mate with the bucking bar. The rivets
bend over big time and are far from acceptable. I tried turning the rivets
around but the holes are too close for the rivet gun to mate flush. Can I
use pop-rivets here or is there a structural loss? I can't afford to have to
drill the rivets out again, the holes are already getting larger.
Thankx in advance
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
i tried to dimple a platenut but stopped. i seemed to be to hard and did not
want to damage. yes i used cleco in other hole and did help some.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
If you cant find any leaks by pressurizing the tank, spraying on a soap
solution and carefully inspecting every spot that could possibly leak, then I
wouldnt worry about it. Probably cap leaking or balloon. Mine both leaked a
little at the caps, around the balloons, and the gasket at the fuel sender.
If you have a leak anywhere you will see it immediately with the soap
solution on it.
Kevin Shannon
-9 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
Subject: | Navaid servo shaking |
I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test before
wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm shakes
while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will
stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod or
servo crank. 1)How much of this jittering will continue, 2)will aileron/wind
forces dampen these oscillations, 3)is the manual aileron trim taking care of
this problem (I have electric trim), 4)would springs applied to the servo crank
arm help dampen this shaking? I was expecting a smooth operation of the servo
to find the null point and control the aileron at that point as necessary.
Am I missing something?
Dave Ford
RV6 wings/fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
In a message dated 08/09/2000 8:19:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com writes:
> Hi Jim!
>
> On your O-290G, the 130hp estimated. Was that 5hp above rated hp due to
> running at a higher rpm, having a MA-4 carb vs. MA3-SPA, or other reasons?
> Just curious if there is a simple accessory (e.g. larger carb, etc.) that
> can give a few extra hp (in luie of using alternate
> cranks/rods/pistons/heads/etc.) in the O-290 since I'm using one!
>
> RV-3's forever!!!
>
> Rob
Just D2 pistons in a G to D conversion. It wasn't ever placed on a dyno to
measure what it actually produced.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
RV-3 SN 306
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
Subject: | Re: Navaid servo shaking |
David Ford wrote:
>
>
> I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test
before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm
shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will
stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod
or servo crank. 1)How much of this jittering will continue, 2)will aileron/wind
forces dampen these oscillations, 3)is the manual aileron trim taking care
of this problem (I have electric trim), 4)would springs applied to the servo crank
arm help dampen this shaking? I was expecting a smooth operation of the
servo to find the null point and control the aileron at that point as necessary.
Am I missing something?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 wings/fuselage
>
>
It well work fine in flight. The problem is that the controls of an RV
are so friction free. In flight there is enough air pressure against
the ailerons that it works great. Mine well shake on the ground unless
I stop it by touching the control stick.
I installed mine about six years ago and love it on long flights.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Navaid servo shaking |
In a message dated 8/9/00 9:58:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dford(at)michweb.net
writes:
<< I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to
test before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit
crank arm shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null
point. Unit will stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding
aileron or pushrod or servo crank. >>
On the ground mine does this too. You can adjust the span pot down a wee bit
to minimize but it goes away in the air pretty much. The problem is the RV
control system is virtually frictionless and the servo unit is very
responsive. A little side pressure on the stick generally damps the hunting
oscillation.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
Hi Bob,
When riveting plate nuts I use a shortened hardware store screw or bolt and
sometimes washers to hold the plate nut threads on center and stop the
platenut from pulling away when the first rivet is lightly squeezed. I use a
cleaco or another rivet to keep the platenut aligned with it's rivet holes.
I then go on to squeeze the second rivet ,then finish squeezing the first
lightly squeezed rivet.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: platenut nuts
>
> i have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used
> to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach
> platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover
> attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed)
> the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second
> rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something
i
> am missing?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Subject: | Re: phlogiston spar/prime or not |
Hi again Bob,
No.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 6:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: phlogiston spar/prime or not
>
> i realize the phlogiston spar i purchased has been treated. seems like i
> read here at one time of a discussion of adding a layer of primer over top
of
> phlogiston ... is this a waste of primer and adding weight? i am using
> variprime. no primer wars please. i started one several months ago and not
> mean to do that again. adding any type of primer over any anodized pieces
> necessary? bob in ark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
Steve,
I had a similar problem and circumvented it using Cherrymax rivets - these
have more strength as solids in many cases (due to steel mandrel), be
careful fitting them as they are difficult to remove. There is a web site
http://www.taf.textron.com/ which explains all about these rivets, you may
need to go oversize to have the perfect fit.
Good Luck,
David Roseblade
RV6A Wings - UAE Persian Gulf
RV-6 HS
Ok I've tried it twice and I need help. I'm done riveting the HS except for
2 rivets that go through one of the HS405s and the HS610 and HS614
(AN470AD4-7s). The problem is the holes are a little too close to the flange
(still acceptable) to allow a flush mate with the bucking bar. The rivets
bend over big time and are far from acceptable. I tried turning the rivets
around but the holes are too close for the rivet gun to mate flush. Can I
use pop-rivets here or is there a structural loss? I can't afford to have to
drill the rivets out again, the holes are already getting larger.
Thankx in advance
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
> Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. snip
> Does anyone have any ideas at all? snip
Faulty balloon possibly............Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ronvandervort(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post |
Hello Tom Brown,
I have the Lasar on a new 0-360-A1A from Van's.
I have not noticed any Lasar shut downs at cruise with 337 hrs on engine.
I do however get momentary, 20 second, shut downs sometimes base to final or
other times when I may make significant changes in MAP, i.e. formation flying
or "rat racing".
At approx 300 hrs. the left mag died and Unison sent me new mags both for
the left and right due to the relay problems you alluded to. I still have
not learned if that is what failed in my left mag as those Unison folks have
been so busy with Oshkosh they haven't had time to get back to me. I shall
be giving them a call again now that Oshkosh has been over for awhile.
I have not had any backfires during taxi. I do not have any excessive
RPM drop off/on Lasar. Mag drops 50-75 RPM. I do get the usual popping at
idle on approach. Perhaps leaning a bit on final would help. I haven't
tried that.
Hope this helps some.
Ron Vandervort, RV-6, Seattle Area
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
>
>i have been trying to add the reinforce plate on the elevator that is used
>to attach a cover for the trim tab. plans call for flush rivets to attach
>platenuts. i thought i would dimple the reinforce plate that the cover
>attaches to in order to accept the above rivets. when i riveted (squeezed)
>the other end of the platenut would turn up slightly and then the second
>rivet would not set flush. this i know is no biggie but is there something i
>am missing?
This won't help you here, but it could in the future. I use NAS1097
"cheater" rivets on most of my platenuts. They are flush head rivets
with smaller than normal heads. The heads are small enough that you
can countersink for them, even in fairly thin material. This means
the platenuts will sit flat against the back side of the material,
and you don't need to dimple the blasted things.
You can get the NAS1097 rivets from Avery and Vans.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (mounting elevators, etc)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl> |
Subject: | audio flight avionics |
Hello
Does anybody knows if Audio Flight Avionics is still in business?
Their website is no longer available and I have no idea how to reach them.
Thanks in advance
Arnold de Brie RV8
The Netherlands
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Navaid servo shaking |
Previous posts are accurate relative to the unit not shaking in the air.
One other potential source for the oscillations is the power source you are
using to drive the unit. If you use an underpowered AC convertor you may
also get an oscillation. I first attempted to test my Navaid in the shop
with a small Radio Shack power supply and saw the oscillations. A larger
unit worked fine. I would recommend testing with a battery if you can.
I have set up an oscillation in flight by turning the unit on in the wing
leveler mode and placing the aircraft in a small banked turn. Bump the stick
and the oscillations start. It seems to work fine in steeper turns. I
haven't gotten to that portion of the flight testing to really fine tune the
unit.
Tom Brown RV4 - Navaid equipped 20 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob U." <rv3(at)swbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: RV3-List: Re:0/235 0/320 fuel economy |
Hi Y'all,
It takes a certain minimum amount of fuel to feed our horses.
Assuming .43 pounds per horsepower (or whatever you like), one can figure
the approximate horsepower being generated via fuel consumption.
Applying this to the info below makes for interesting reading.
Bob Urban
RV-3 N863WL
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Hi All,
>
> When I had the O-290 in my RV-3, I normally flew at at 165 mph true ias
> between 9,500' and 11,500' for cross country flights. I frequently flew with
> another RV-3, N51RV, which was powered by an IO-320. We consistantly burned
> 6.0 gph.
>
> The LOM M332A engine (245 cu.in.) at 160 mph true ias burns 5.0 gph, and at
> 175-180 mph true ias at 9,500' burns 6.2 gph.
>
> I am in the process of completely rewiring my RV-3. I am installing a
> Microair 760 COM and a fuelscan (Matronics) fuel flow meter. I thought I
> might find a sweet spot in fuel consumption by varying the mp and rpm at a
> given air speed.
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV (Why does an annual take more than a year?) :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Navaid servo shaking |
you should check with Navaid there is a fix for this condition with a resiter
and some internal friction that can be added
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
Subject: | Oil filler neck it too long |
I am installing in IO-360 in my RV-4 and find the dipstick inteferes with the
upper cowl. Lycoming tells me the next size smaller is so much shorter that it
will make it difficult to reach in to add oil. Have any listers successfully
shortened a filler neck by removing a section from the center? If so, what
adhesive did you use to rejoin the halves? Thanks in advance for the help.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Fitting Cowl
Arlington, MA
**** This message is from Arthur D. Little, Inc., and/or one of
Arthur D. Little's subsidiaries or affiliates and may contain
confidential business information. It is intended for the addressee
only and may not be copied without our permission. If you are not
the intended recipient please contact the sender as soon as possible.****
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Riveting HS rib |
There were several places in my building so far where the plans called for
rivets that were just too long. No amount of care would keep them from
bending over... When I used a smaller rivet, I got the proper sized shop
head with no difficulties. Make sure the rivet you are using (even if it's
the one spec'd in the plans) is not too long. Check the shop head with a
guage if you go smaller to make sure you have not gone too small. Some of
them I had to cut down half a size to make them what I wanted them to be.
Don't be shy about this, you're the manufacturer....make it work. :-)
Bill
-4 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 11:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting HS rib
>
> RV-6 HS
> Ok I've tried it twice and I need help. I'm done riveting the HS except
for
> 2 rivets that go through one of the HS405s and the HS610 and HS614
> (AN470AD4-7s). The problem is the holes are a little too close to the
flange
> (still acceptable) to allow a flush mate with the bucking bar. The rivets
> bend over big time and are far from acceptable. I tried turning the
rivets
> around but the holes are too close for the rivet gun to mate flush. Can I
> use pop-rivets here or is there a structural loss? I can't afford to have
to
> drill the rivets out again, the holes are already getting larger.
>
> Thankx in advance
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-6 emp
> C-FSND
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
Subject: | Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post |
Tom,
I have a Bart O-320 160hp engine with LASAR with about 40 hours on it. My
engine is also about two years old. I found a fix for at least one of your
problems at Oshkosh this year.
I too have seen the intermittent drop out of the system. When I saw the
Unison folks at Oshkosh, I spent some time talking to their head technician.
I don't have his name handy, it might have been Jim. In any event, I spoke
with him and he was reluctant at first to do much, but I persisted. I
finally convinced him to come out to the flight line to look at my system.
He grabbed up his computer, tool bag and we headed out to my airplane. On
the way, I told him about the RV-list, and how I can speak instantly to over
2000+ builders around the world, many of whom buy new engines and try new
technologies LIKE ELECTRONIC IGNITION. I don't know if I saw him swallow
hard or if it was just an optical illusion brought on by the high price for
fountain drinks on the grounds at AirVenture.
When he looked at my system, he was looking for two things. One, did I have
an older control box and two, did I have the older mags. He found that I
had the newer control box and he could tell by looking at the output ports
on the bottom. I'm going from memory here, but I think if you have a round
bayonet-type plug for the computer interface on the right hand side of the
box when looking straight at it, then it is a newer box. If you have an
older box, there is a software patch that needs to be applied. This can be
done by hooking a computer up to the interface port and downloading the new
software. Since I didn't need to have this done, I don't know how difficult
it might be. I assume that you should send them your box and they could fix
it and send it back to you.
He then turned his attention to my mags. As it turned out, mine were are
the older style mags. The older mags have an internal relay that trips
intermittently due to vibration. The newer design externalized the relay in
the wiring harness to provide the requisite vibration dampening. He took my
name and address and about 5 days after Oshkosh, a new set of mags arrived
at my front door free of charge. He was also supposed to send me a timing
light too, but I haven't seen that yet so the mags are sitting on my
workbench.
When I get home, I will look for this guy's card and get you his name. I'd
call him and bug him until he relents.
Now, I also have a similar problem as you in that no matter how I adjust the
mixture screw on the carb, I don't get a rise in RPM at cut off. I have
moved the screw in and out almost its full length without change. I intend
to have my mechanic take a look at it when I have him replace the mags. I
don't think the two are related but who knows. I'm not much of an engine
guy.
My bird does not exhibit any of the other problems you describe. I get
about a 75 RPM drop when testing the mags and my system runs only slightly
rougher in mag mode than in electronic ignition mode. I haven't noticed any
backfiring or popping but maybe my ANR headsets are just doing their job.
When I checked my plugs at 25 hours, they were all a nice pale gray hue.
One thing that I did recently was I had my prop dynamically balanced and it
has made a world of difference in reducing the vibrations. You might want
to give this some thought.
Good luck on getting things worked out. I will get you the guys name
tomorrow. Let me know what you find out on the other issues.
Randy Pflanzer N417G RV-6 (40 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post |
I would contact Harry Fenton... harry(at)unisonindustries.com
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 10:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I am running a Bart Lablonde O-360 fuel injected Lycoming with a Lasar
> Ignition on my RV4. Bart installed the Lasar system and the mags before
> shipping. I now have 22 flying hours on the aircraft. I wanted to post my
> experience with the Lasar ignition with the hope that it might help some
else
> and hopefully I can gain some insight as well. I checked the archives.
The
> only post that came close was posted in March 99 by Arthur Whitehead.
>
> The engine starts OK and runs smooth when the Lasar unit is on. I
know
> when the Lasar it isn't on because of the indicator light on the panel
comes
> on when the unit turns off. The problem I am having is the unit turns on
and
> off at random in flight for indeterminate periods of time. Sometimes its
a
> minute, other times it stays off for five minutes. Never really timed the
> actual down time. The unit must have turned on and off 15 times during
the
> 1.5 hour flight today. It turned off on reduced power. Turned off on
climb
> power. Turned on and off at high cruise speed. Turns on and off at low
> power cruise. Today when the unit turned on and off it, except for the
> indicator light, it was barely noticeable. Most of the time when it
happens
> it causes the engine to skip a beat and definitely gets your attention.
It
> sounds like a backfire. Probably did backfire. The unit typically runs
> continuously for the first 20 to 30 minutes.
>
> Engine runup isn't what I would expect either. Initial engine runup
is
> to 1,800 rpm with the Lasar on. Switching to the left mag causes a 160 to
> 190 rpm drop. Back to both (now the Lasar is off) rpm goes to 1760.
Right
> mag sees about the same drop. Both mags when operated alone feel rough and
> the tach reading (VM1000 - digital) isn't very stable. I tried increasing
> the engine RPM back to 1800 after the Lasar was switched off. I still see
> the 160 rpm drop off and a rough engine on a single mag. When the Lasar
is
> on, the engine is silky smooth. With both mags on, the engine exhibits a
> slight roughness but the rpm is fairly steady.
> The engine is newly rebuilt and the lower plugs have been exhibiting
some
> wet oil. I have cleaned the lower plugs four times in twenty hours. The
> plug cleaning was done hoping to eliminate a tendency to backfire when hot
at
> idle. The upper plugs were pulled once and look OK.
> In all other respects the engine seems to be operating within normal
> parameters. I have a plenum chamber installed. All four of the cylinder
> heads typically operate within 15 degrees F. At cruise I am seeing 335 to
> 350 F. with ambient air at 75F. Exhaust temps are indicating that they
all
> fall within a Max span of 50 degrees. Typical exhaust temps in cruise
are
> 1450 F. Oil temp at cruise is between 185 and 195F.
>
> The only other trait I am seeing is that the engine backfires at hot
> idle. I have tried setting the throttle body mixture linkage leaner
without
> any effect. The engine as now set exhibits about a 10 to 20 rpm increase
from
> 1000 rpm when being shutdown. The shutdown rpm change is a little
difficult
> to see as the readings aren't that stable and change in 10 rpm increments
on
> the screen. For a while I thought maybe the plugs just had some form of
> fouling. Right now, I'm not quite sure what to make of it. I spoke with
Bart
> about the backfiring and have tried the cures recently posted with no
effect.
>
> I spoke with a technician from Unison - Lasar who was attending the
> Oshkosh convention. He asked how old the unit was. I told him it was over
> two years old but was just placed into service. He mentioned that they
had
> experienced some problems with the older units. He mentioned something
about
> a relay dropping in and out. He said he would get back to me with a fix.
>
> As a final point, I never could get the Lasar tachometer input to
> interface with the VM1000. I called Vision Micro several times and
consulted
> with Unison who referred me back to Vision Micro. I finally defaulted back
to
> using the transducer supplied with the VM1000. The transducer was in
close
> agreement with the tach sensor used during the prop balancing.
>
> I would like to know. Does my system operate like your Lasar system?
Do
> you have rough mags during runup? Perhaps a backfire or two during taxi?
>
> Tom Brown RV4
> RV4Brown(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcACwMi4SLqVkTCQRnmyJTQ1xE72GQADO+YQ
From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Subject: | audio flight avionics |
Thread-Topic: RV-List: audio flight avionics
Arnold,
AFA has gone through some changes. There were several partners and
their relationship dissolved because of some money problems. Peter, the
engineer who designed the AV-10, is manufacturing/selling them on his
own. I just flew my RV-6 and have an AV-10 in my airplane and am very
happy with it. Peter has been great with support issues, and is adding
some features to the AV-10 that I have requested. His email is
wedgie(at)interlog.com.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RealMed Corporation
www.realmed.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Arnold de Brie [mailto:ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl]
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 2:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: audio flight avionics
Hello
Does anybody knows if Audio Flight Avionics is still in business?
Their website is no longer available and I have no idea how to reach
them.
Thanks in advance
Arnold de Brie RV8
The Netherlands
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: Oil filler neck it too long |
On my 0320 I shortened the tube and spliced it
back together with a pvc pipe coupling glued
with pvc cement. Shorten the dipstick the same amount
by removing the roll pin in the cap and then drill a new hole for it.
I put 2 pop rivits in thru the coupling to carry the torsional
loads caused by tightening the dipstick.
Stewart Bergner RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth? |
--- Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Yes, this is my question, what are we going to do when we can no
> longer get
> 100LL? Was just reading an article in Kit Planes Mag. regarding the
> future
> availability of leaded aircraft fuel. Should I be looking for a low
> compression auto gas compatable engine?
Two months ago in Sport Aviation there was an article about the EAA and
AOPA working with EPA and some other government alphabet soup outfit to
develop a suitable _high octane_ replacement for 100LL.
I'm thinking you can safely stay with current compression ratios. I
am!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Carroll Bird <catbird(at)taylorelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil filler neck it too long |
> I am installing in IO-360 in my RV-4 and find the dipstick inteferes with the
> upper cowl. Lycoming tells me the next size smaller is so much shorter that
it
> will make it difficult to reach in to add oil.
I used a short one on my -4. Works good have a small funnel that I bought
at
Walmart for 99cents that works great. I traded a long one for a short one with
Steve Chia in Indiana. Be sure to put the oil door in the right place so you can
use the short one.
Carroll Bird
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Necessary Tail Endorsement |
I don't know if you need a tailwheel endorsement to legally fly a tailwheel
RV. What I do know is that you will not be able to get insurance for your
plane if you are not endorsed. Maybe that if more relevant. Also, as a
relatively low time pilot who purchased his RV already completed and flying,
I can tell you that it was an adjustment from run-of-the-mill Cessna nose
draggers. It was easier to fly (what do you mean carb heat off and flaps
up on a go around, I'm climbing at 1000fpm, isn't that good enough!!), but
much harder to drive. About 5 hours into my transition training in my RV-4
I had to go to Florida on business. I took the opportunity to get a lesson
in a Cub and realized something. The RV is more difficult to drive than a
Cub also. The instructor who went up with me in the Cub offered to give me
a tailwheel endorsement on the spot. I declined, I still was far from safe
in my RV and that's what I wanted my endorsement for. By the way, the Cub
was much harder to FLY than the RV, can you say "adverse aileron yaw".
In the end, my instructor signed me off after about 15 hours in my RV, the
first 3 or 4 spent in the back seat with temporarily installed rudder
pedals. My patience paid off, I have in the last month put in about 20
trouble free solo hours in my RV. It is the most incredible machine I could
ever imagine.
My final thought, I bought my RV. If I wad it up in a ball by ground
looping it or landing hard, my insurance will pay me and I will buy another
one, in a sense it is replaceable. I could not even imagine cutting corners
on training if I had sunk countless untold thousands of hours and years of
my life into building one. That's it, end of editorial.
Good luck to all, and if anyone is in CT and wants a "motivation" ride, look
me up.
Don Mei
RV-4 N92CT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Spacing between elevator horn and HS skin |
Even after looking at RV's at Oshkosh I missed these details - argh!
I just completed the right elevator to the point of inspection (Canadian
reg's). I then test fitted it to the HS and found that I have a 3/16 inch
gap between the elevator horn skin and the HS. I gather this must be right
since I'm building with pre-punched parts. It just seems a lot and I can't
think of any way to narrow the gap.
Also, does anyone cover up the inside of the horn where one of the counter
balance weights is? It looks very 'open' by just leaving it this way.
Are
RV-8
Wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Wing tanks for RV-8 |
I saw a post about a month ago that someone was selling a pair of new tip
tanks. It must not have been archived since I can't find the post. Can
anyone remember who it was or if someone bought them?
Are
RV-8
Wings on order.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Navaid servo shaking |
David Ford wrote:
>
>
> I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test
before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm
shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will
stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod
or servo crank. 1)How much of this jittering will continue, 2)will aileron/wind
forces dampen these oscillations, 3)is the manual aileron trim taking care
of this problem (I have electric trim), 4)would springs applied to the servo crank
arm help dampen this shaking? I was expecting a smooth operation of the
servo to find the null point and control the aileron at that point as necessary.
Am I missing something?
Dave, as other replies have noted, you shouldn't have a problem with the
Navaid jittering while airborne. You want to adjust the span pot as far
clockwise as possible without have the servo jitter in flight. This will
assure adequate sensitivity for proper tracking with your GPS.
However, this is another good reason to consider installing the manual
aileron trim if a Navaid is going to be installed. Not only does the
manual system work extremely well, you can preload the Navaid with the
system to eliminate any residual hunting by the servo.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 faithfully guided by Navaid and Lowrance AirMap 100)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tank Leak- for Norm |
I don't know if you caught my post from Wednesday. Here it is again.
---------------
I used Hobby Store bulk super glue (sold under various trade names....2.5 oz.
applicator bottles). There are three thicknesses of this stuff. I used the real
thin mix ( this stuff is thinner than water-if thats possible). Anyway, a drop
or two of this stuff wicks under the rivet head and a shot of activator (spray
pump bottle- same brand as the super glue) instantly ( and I mean instantly)
sets the "wicked-in" super glue. Took ten minutes to do entire tank and I
never had a leak. Now, I know my riveting of the pro-seal-ed tanks should
have produced some leaks. I think this method of sealing saved the day for me.
BTW the Mooney folks sell a kit simular to this for lots of $$$. That is where
I
got the idea.
vwelch(at)knownet.net on 08/08/2000 08:26:24 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Tank Leak
Alright guys, I'm at my wits end here. I just completed my right tank and
was pressure testing it last week (balloon test). The baloon deflates in
about a half hour. I have been using "Snoop" (an industrial leak detect,
similar to soapy water) to look for leaks. Initially I found a couple on
the rear baffle flange and Z-brackets. I prosealed over these, waited a
couple of days and got the same results. In a fit of aggrevation I spent
all day removing just about all of the proseal from the baffle. I mixed up
a fresh batch of proseal and did the whole thing again. After a couple of
days I tested it and it LEAKED again! This time I couldn't find bubble the
first!! I have snooped every rivet, seam, cover, baffle, fitting and
nothing, not one bubble. But the balloon still deflates in about half an
hour.
Does anyone have any ideas at all? I would gladly seal the leaks if I
could find them. By the way, I also brought an electronic manometer home
from work (grasping at straws), I pressured the tank up to about 15 inches
of water and watched it slowly drop. Different technology, same result.
Vince Welch
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oil filler neck it too long |
Check the archives. We talked about some approaches a while ago. We took along
one, cut the tube with a tubing cutter, remarked the dip-stick ( via the cut
away piece) and glued the tube back together with a PVC coupler with PVC
cement.
catbird(at)taylorelectric.com on 08/10/2000 09:52:52 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil filler neck it too long
> I am installing in IO-360 in my RV-4 and find the dipstick inteferes with the
> upper cowl. Lycoming tells me the next size smaller is so much shorter that
it
> will make it difficult to reach in to add oil.
I used a short one on my -4. Works good have a small funnel that I bought
at
Walmart for 99cents that works great. I traded a long one for a short one with
Steve Chia in Indiana. Be sure to put the oil door in the right place so you can
use the short one.
Carroll Bird
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Subject: | Wing tanks for RV-8 |
I saw a post about a month ago that someone was selling a pair of new tip
tanks. It must not have been archived since I can't find the post. Can
anyone remember who it was or if someone bought them?
Are
RV-8
Wings on order.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Navaid servo shaking |
David Ford wrote:
>
>
> I have hooked up the Navaid servo unit in my wing, wired to gyro unit to test
before wing is closed up. When set to wing leveler mode servo unit crank arm
shakes while passing through neutral and back hunting for null point. Unit will
stop if I apply damping pressure by physically holding aileron or pushrod
or servo crank. 1)How much of this jittering will continue, 2)will aileron/wind
forces dampen these oscillations, 3)is the manual aileron trim taking care
of this problem (I have electric trim), 4)would springs applied to the servo crank
arm help dampen this shaking? I was expecting a smooth operation of the
servo to find the null point and control the aileron at that point as necessary.
Am I missing something?
Dave, as other replies have noted, you shouldn't have a problem with the
Navaid jittering while airborne. You want to adjust the span pot as far
clockwise as possible without have the servo jitter in flight. This will
assure adequate sensitivity for proper tracking with your GPS.
However, this is another good reason to consider installing the manual
aileron trim if a Navaid is going to be installed. Not only does the
manual system work extremely well, you can preload the Navaid with the
system to eliminate any residual hunting by the servo.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 faithfully guided by Navaid and Lowrance AirMap 100)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: audio flight avionics |
In a message dated 8/10/00 4:37:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl writes:
<< Does anybody knows if Audio Flight Avionics is still in business?
Their website is no longer available and I have no idea how to reach them. >>
The latest update of the Yeller Pages will have this new listing:
AUDIO FLIGHT AVIONICS (PETER RUMMELL) 416-264-0968
VOICE ALERTING ENGINE MONITOR
They have had some problems in the past so you should exercise caution. That
being said, Peter contacted me recently and made a posting to the list
indicating that he was working very hard to get back in the good graces with
his customers. So give it a shot.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Wing tanks for RV-8 |
Jon Johanson sell tip tanks through Vans Catalog. They hold 8.5 gallons ea.
Check the online catalog at
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=965921460-118-492&acti
on=search
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 10:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing tanks for RV-8
>
> I saw a post about a month ago that someone was selling a pair of new tip
> tanks. It must not have been archived since I can't find the post. Can
> anyone remember who it was or if someone bought them?
>
> Are
> RV-8
> Wings on order.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Troy Whistman <TroyW(at)digitalmd.com> |
Subject: | Wing tanks for RV-8 |
Are,
It was Matthew Gelber:
Troy Whistman
For Sale:
Brand new Van's wingtip fuel tanks. These are the ones in the catalog, for
a 6A or an 8A, with the internal lighting.
They go for $1950 new; these haven't been touched (well, maybe I fondled
them a bit when I unpacked them). I would like to get $1750 for them, and
I'll pay to ship them to you insured in the mainland U.S. Actually, I'd
rather sell them to someone in CA, OR, or NV and fly them to you (any excuse
to go somewhere). They take a long time to get from Vans...
The story- I am switching from an 8 to an 8A and the tip tank filler and
sump are in the wrong locations for the 8A, so they won't work. Too bad-
they're gorgeous.
Email me at mgelber(at)pacbell.net . If I don't get any takers I'll put an ad
in the Rvator and try to sell them to the common folk (i.e. non-listers).
Matthew
RV-8A wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad [mailto:abarstad(at)bconnex.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 9:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing tanks for RV-8
I saw a post about a month ago that someone was selling a pair of new tip
tanks. It must not have been archived since I can't find the post. Can
anyone remember who it was or if someone bought them?
Are
RV-8
Wings on order.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement - really required? |
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Lawrence" <elawrence(at)eaa.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 10:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
> Cy:
> Regarding the tailwheel endorsement I can't give a clear yes or no answer
> but here is the information you need.
>
> FAR 61 provides an exemption for experimental aircraft pilots from the
> category, class, type ratings and endorsement requirements in FAR Part 61.
> The intent of this exemption is to deal with new flying machines for which
> there is no category, class, or ratings yet created for the aircraft. The
> operating limitations issued to amateur-built aircraft are suppose to have
a
> limitation listed that requires the pilot of the experimental
amateur-built
> aircraft to hold all appropriate ratings and endorsements. However this
> limitation is not always listed in the operating limitations.
> So first the pilot must check the aircraft operating limitations to see if
> that limitation is there. If that limitation does exists then yes the
pilot
> must have the tailwheel endorsement.
>
> If the aircraft does not have the endorsement operating limitation, then
the
> pilot has the burden of proof to show he is not operating the aircraft in
a
> careless and reckless manner (91.13) and that he received all appropriate
> and available training to operate the aircraft. In this case if an
accident
> occurs the FAA can violate the pilot for careless operation of the
aircraft
> and it will be up to the pilot to prove he was not reckless and that he
> received all appropriate training even though he does not have the
tailwheel
> endorsement. The burden of proof is on the pilot not the FAA.
>
> EAA suggests the pilot get the tailwheel endorsement.
>
> EAA currently does not have a listing of a CFI in Utah with available to
do
> tailwheel endorsements.
>
> Earl Lawrence
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)qcbc.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:05 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
>
> Sorry to hear of your predicament. What you do probably will be dictated
by
> your insurance company. You are flying a proven plane not test flying an
> unproven plane at the same time trying to learn how to control a
> taildragger. You obviously have had a check ride with your partners. You
> will be flying in the same proven plane.
>
> I wouldn't fly an RV without get a complete check out and I do own a
> taildragger with several hundred hours. The pucker factor of test flying
> without the additional load of learning to take off and land a taildragger
> is high enough.
>
> I will check with my "expert" Earl Lawrence of the EAA about the legality
of
> flying an experimental without a tail wheel endorsement. If one needs an
> endorsement, Earl probably has a list of qualified CFIs.
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at
http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 8:28 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel endorsement - really required?
>
>
> >
> > >Not to beat a dead horse but... If you don't have a tailwheel
> > endorsement,
> > >I don't believe you are ready to fly a high performance tail dragger. I
> > >don't have one as I am "grandfathered." I don't have as many TW hours
as
> > >Scott but still enough to know from experience that a TW can bite you
> > when
> > >you least expect it. Scott has the right approach.
> >
> > Ok, what about my current situation. Been getting dual in the
> > Starduster for a while now, up to about 20 hours. But, the guys I have
> > been getting dual from are just the other guys in the partnership.
(mostly
> > with an ex-AF pilot 5000+hours). They feel that I'm ready to solo the
> > plane. None of them are CFI's. I can't find anybody in the state of
Utah
> > who does tailwheel instruction (two months of trying has resulted in
only
> > one person who would even return my call to say he couldn't do it). So,
> > no endorsement. Hearing that it may be legal, I'm going to have to go
> > check the documents to see if it has the operating restriction. Would
be
> > tairing my hair out of this if I had any left.
> >
> >
> > Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> > President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
> > RV-8 80091 Riviting fuel tanks.
> > 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
> >
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
Good posts by the other folks. I also wanted to mention that Skybolt (see
Yeller Pages) sells platenuts that have dimpled rivet holes. I ordered a
bunch & they work very well. Their catalog is very informative also.
Phil, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
sorry yellow pages?? how about an address for the counter plate... thanx, bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
> Good posts by the other folks. I also wanted to mention that Skybolt (see
> Yeller Pages) sells platenuts that have dimpled rivet holes. I ordered a
> bunch & they work very well. Their catalog is very informative also.
>
> Phil, 80691
>
I use them a lot too. I got mine from Wick's web site.
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
They also carry dimpled platenuts to take the 100 degree counter-sunk screws we
use.
pdsmith(at)pacbell.net on 08/10/2000 01:42:33 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: platenut nuts
Good posts by the other folks. I also wanted to mention that Skybolt (see
Yeller Pages) sells platenuts that have dimpled rivet holes. I ordered a
bunch & they work very well. Their catalog is very informative also.
Phil, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Subject: | Re: Henry Gorgas Builder Workshop |
Tom'
Keep me posted if a spot opens up, I'd sure like to go. By the way when
and how much?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
Bob:
GV's Yeller pages can be found at:
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
Once you're on this page you can just press Control-F to find the supplier
that you're interested in. In this case it's
SKYBOLT AIRMOTIVE 407-889-2613 skybolt@mindspring.com http://www.skybolt.com
AIRCRAFT FASTENERS, HOSES AND FITTINGS
Phil, 80691
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
I got my countersunk plate nuts from http://www.wicksaircraft.com
I used a lot of them on the wings. Very handy.
> sorry yellow pages?? how about an address for the counter plate... thanx, bob
>
====
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
Subject: | Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth? |
In my case ,with H pistons 9 to 1. If 100LL is not availible I will
change pistons.I tried Amoco Hi test and my 0320 A2B does not like it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts another source |
Right here in the Dallas area. I've visited them...they have (or seem to be
able to get) EVERY type fastener known to aviation mankind.
I just got a bunch of really dimpled (all three places) platenuts that I
used to make my 6A baggage floorboards removeable (I'm an inspection freak -
and I will probably add the steps later).
Aircraft Supply Company @ 214-688-0549 ask for Alvin - tell him what you're
building and I sent ya! I have one of their old catalogs and we were able
to decipher exactly what I needed.
Ralph Capen
RV6A QB N822AR Dallas
My baggage floorboards are removeable - structural and don't have screwheads
stickin' up!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: phlogiston spar/prime or not |
Bob,
Adding any primer over anodized pieces is not necessary. If you are in any
question that a pice is anodized try this little trick. Get out your
multi-meter and conduct a resistance check. Put the two probes anywhere on
the piece and the resisitance should stay infinite. The anodized produces
and electrical barrier which is part of the reason it stops corrosion.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: phlogiston spar/prime or not
>Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 21:42:48 EDT
>
>
>i realize the phlogiston spar i purchased has been treated. seems like i
>read here at one time of a discussion of adding a layer of primer over top
>of
>phlogiston ... is this a waste of primer and adding weight? i am using
>variprime. no primer wars please. i started one several months ago and not
>mean to do that again. adding any type of primer over any anodized pieces
>necessary? bob in ark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Flight Test "Checklist" |
FWIW, just received the publication "Flight Test Checklist: Homebuilder's
Flight Test Guide" by Jerry Milek. Just thumbing through it, it looks like
a good overview with "fill in the data" pages for your initial series of
flight tests. It's more than just recording oil temps, etc.--covers such
things as "longitudinal stability", ROC test, etc. etc. I purchased this
from JaviFix, Inc.--fax is 613-965-1886, e-mail is javifix(at)reach.net. I
know this sounds like an endorsement. It is, but I'm not paid nor am I
affiliated with this outfit . . . for $12 U.S. I just felt this was a
worthwhile publication.
Rick Jory, RV8A QB (mounting the engine)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Century I wing-leveler gyro pinout |
I've got a Century I Turn Cooridnator with Wing Leveler and Tracking
cabability. Can anyone out there provide me the pin-out for this unit. It
uses one of the older-style 14-pin "D" connectors (looks like a minature
Centronics printer connector). My particular gyro was a Michell manufacture,
model # 52D75-4. the -4 indicates the tracker function. The -3 was a wing
leveler only.
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Subject: | Re: platenut nuts |
Listers,
I've purchased the "dimpled" nut plates from both Wicks and Skybolt. You can
order nut plates with the dimpled rivet holes by simply adding the letter K
to the suffix of the nut plate number. Using the current (not Van's outdated
K-100 or what ever) designation of
MS21047-xx This is a standard 2 lug nutplate. The suffix (xx) denotes the
screw size
To order this nutplate with dimpled rivet holes, order it as follows
MS21047-xxK
You say you want the screw hole dimpled as well? Order
MS21049-xxK
You can find all sorts of nut plate styles in AC43.13-1b in Chapter 7
AIRCRAFT HARDWARE on page 7-65 through 7-67 Check out this entire chapter.
It will be an education. That IS part of why we are allowed to build our own
aircraft. You can download AC43.13-1b here:
http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/
Don't leave home without it!!
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 Dang! After using all those little rivets, these pieces of aluminium
actually resemble wings!!! :-)
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> Good posts by the other folks. I also wanted to mention that Skybolt (see
> Yeller Pages) sells platenuts that have dimpled rivet holes. I ordered a
> bunch & they work very well. Their catalog is very informative also.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dustin Norlund" <dustin_norlund(at)geotec.net> |
Subject: | Are you missing your nose gear? |
Are you missing your nose gear? It seems that Vans has sent me someones
nose gear on accident. I did not unpack it the whole way but enough to see
the gear leg, and toe. I ordered prop bolts, and some 4130 1/2 inch tube
ect. If you have my bolts, and hardware i will trade. Due to the fact that
vans is closed for a while we might be able to do it faster directly.
Contact me off list please.
.-.
/ \ .-. .-.
/ \ / \ .-. _ .-. / \
/-Dustin Norlund------------/---\--/--\------/------\-
\ / \ / `-' `-' \ /
\ / `-' `-'
`-'
9119 North 102nd East Avenue
Owasso, OK 74055
KD5JXZ
PPSEL
RV6 N555DN (wings on, final rigging and trim)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wilson, James Mike" <james.mike.wilson(at)intel.com> |
Subject: | Drooping left wing tip |
I had that problem with my left wing tip (a very old kit 1993). When I
looked at it I found the seam was not bonded straight like the other tip. I
ended up slicing it with a die grinder and stitching together with safety
wire to re-bond. Then refinished and installed. A real pain. If this is the
problem, might be worth buying new tip.
However, None of this is definitively responsible for you trim issue. Could
be something else causing you to trim over. I recommend further
investigation. Others on line may have had trim issues to debug.
mike wilson, RV4
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy [mailto:winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 4:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drooping left wing tip
With everything else lined up (both flaps, both ailerons and the right wing
tip)
the trailing edge of my left tip droops about 1/4". As a consequence I
always have
to fly with a bit of left up aileron. Trim wise, this is compensated for by
Van's
aileron trim in the full left position and the airplane will maintain itself
hands
off, however it has always been an annoying feature of my 6A and I would
also
suspect it is costing me at least a couple of knots.
I suppose my first question, before I tear my wing apart and attempt to
rebuild the
tip is whether of not this is a common problem. Does anybody else have a tip
that
misaligns with the other, or with the rest of the trailing edge? If so, have
you
done anything to correct it? Did you notice a speed increase when you did?
As far as fixing it, I'm wondering if I can "bend" it up a bit by building a
corrective jig and heating it with a heat gun, or if it will need to be cut
up and
reglassed.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
Hi gang,
Does any have a new KT-76C transponder with tray and harness that they want
to sell? Van's lag time may prevent me from picking up my RV-4 until after
the winter, and Van's is the only place that will sell a new KT-76-C
un-installed. Please, please, please. Thanks.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N8ZW in my near future
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post |
> [Original Message]
> From: <RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Date: 8/9/00 11:20:01 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Lasar Ignition - Ops report - Problems? long post
>
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I am running a Bart Lablonde O-360 fuel injected Lycoming with a
Lasar
> Ignition on my RV4. Bart installed the Lasar system and the mags before
> shipping. I now have 22 flying hours on the aircraft. I wanted to post
my
> experience with the Lasar ignition with the hope that it might help some
else
> and hopefully I can gain some insight as well. I checked the archives.
The
> only post that came close was posted in March 99 by Arthur Whitehead.
Tom, listers:
I am also using the Unison system. Mine is on an 0-360-D3G, carburated, in
an RV-4. The unit is about two years old with about 100 hours of service.
I also use the VM1000.
Re mag drops on pre-flight run up. I see the same 200 rpm drops you report
at 1800. I think this is normal since when you begin the check the
computer (and low RPM timing retard) are removed for about 20-30 seconds.
The engine runs about like any other on one normal mag during the check.
I have experienced a few cases where the computer will not come back on
after the ground check.
In these cases cycling the master switch (reboot?) cures the problem. I
have seen only one instance of in flight computer drop off - that during a
4 G pull and simultaneous power reduction on the back side of a loop. It
came back by itself in about 10 seconds.
I called either Vision or Unison ref the RPM pickup. I don't remember now
what they said but I put the wires where they told me too and it has worked
fine with what appears to accurate and stable RPM readings.
I am very happy with the engine's smoothness and improved economy
particularly at the higher altitudes.
Dick Sipp
RV4 250DS 180 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth? |
I was talking with a friend, and RV-8 builder, about running auto gas in
Lycomings today, and maybe he's nuts, or maybe he was drinking, but he told
be that UN-leaded auto gas has more lead in it that 100LL.
If this is true, octane rating aside, there should be no real engine wear
problems due to loss of lubrication in running it...
What do you all think?
Bill VonDane, Colorado
RV-8A, N912V, Wings
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
Subject: | Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth? |
>
>I was talking with a friend, and RV-8 builder, about running auto gas in
>Lycomings today, and maybe he's nuts, or maybe he was drinking, but he told
>be that UN-leaded auto gas has more lead in it that 100LL.
>
Yeh, it must be one of the two. Unleaded auto gas has NO lead. 100 lowlead
has a bunch of lead. That is the one that has the deceptive name.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | HS Attachment to Fuse... |
Gang,
Once again pulling my hair out in the shop.......!!!! In the
process of attaching the HS to the fuse on a 6A QB. Drawing 34 shows a
F-611E Spacer/Control Stop. On the drawing it shows, I believe, the F-611E
mounted under the surface which (on the quick builds) is already installed..I
think.... My neat little spacer that I made wont work on top since the
rivits for the angle below it are already in place (unless Im supposed to
drill those out?), and I dont think it goes on top.....does it? I think Im a
bit confused...it looks like vans has installed a .125 inch alum angle
underneath already, but not in the shape of the F-611E? Any other
Quickbuilders agree/disagree? It also looks like my control stop wouldn't
really stop the Elev Control arm anyway...so Im a bit confused by that also.
The plans call for the 611E to be 5 5/16 in width, but if you put it on the
fuse right where the plans show on Drawing 34 (right next to the F-611 Bars)
it should actually be about 6 1/4in in width. Hmmmmm. This along with the
lack of written instructions doesnt help.......can you tell its midnight...
=) So I guess my question is.....do I even bother with the 611E on the
quickbuild? Or is there a better way to do this?
Thanks for you help...and thanks for letting me vent!!!!!!!
Kurt in OKC
oh and PS...if anyone can find that %$#&**# 1x1 1/4 angle that Im supposed
to make the F-612B out of in my Garage that would be greatly
appreciated.....=)
Time for a few beers and some sleep.....take care.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Subject: | Re: HS Attachment to Fuse... |
>>>>If you can find that #@$&% angle>>>
Sometimes they hide little pieces of angle stock inside the bags with the
rivets, bolts, ect. Just read the sheet that says what is in each bag and
you'll probably find it. But having a few beers is a pretty good idea too.
Kevin
-9A
hooking up those #$&%
aileron pushrods & bellcrank
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dgmurray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
Subject: | Re: HS Attachment to Fuse... |
Kurt - You can make that piece from left over stock too. It's no real
problem to rivet it onto the plate you already have riveted on. If there is
a rivet or two in the way drill out the offending rivet and then re-install
a longer rivet that will pass through all the parts. Make sure that you
install the control stops at the correct position to give you the needed
deflection of the elevators. On a lot of aircraft the elevator horns need to
be trimmed on the lower rear corners to allow enough up elevator. The
control stop that is a little fun is the one that gets riveted to the rear
bulkhead - inside the empanage. Same proceedure - drill out the offending
rivets and install the control stop with longer rivets.
-----------------------------------------------------
Doug Murray RV-6 C-GRPA
Southern Alberta
---- Original Message -----
From: <KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 11:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS Attachment to Fuse...
>
> Gang,
>
> Once again pulling my hair out in the shop.......!!!! In the
> process of attaching the HS to the fuse on a 6A QB. Drawing 34 shows a
> F-611E Spacer/Control Stop. On the drawing it shows, I believe, the
F-611E
> mounted under the surface which (on the quick builds) is already
installed..I
> think.... My neat little spacer that I made wont work on top since the
> rivits for the angle below it are already in place (unless Im supposed to
> drill those out?), and I dont think it goes on top.....does it? I think
Im a
> bit confused...it looks like vans has installed a .125 inch alum angle
> underneath already, but not in the shape of the F-611E? Any other
> Quickbuilders agree/disagree? It also looks like my control stop
wouldn't
> really stop the Elev Control arm anyway...so Im a bit confused by that
also.
> The plans call for the 611E to be 5 5/16 in width, but if you put it on
the
> fuse right where the plans show on Drawing 34 (right next to the F-611
Bars)
> it should actually be about 6 1/4in in width. Hmmmmm. This along with
the
> lack of written instructions doesnt help.......can you tell its
midnight...
> =) So I guess my question is.....do I even bother with the 611E on the
> quickbuild? Or is there a better way to do this?
>
> Thanks for you help...and thanks for letting me vent!!!!!!!
>
> Kurt in OKC
>
> oh and PS...if anyone can find that %$#&**# 1x1 1/4 angle that Im
supposed
> to make the F-612B out of in my Garage that would be greatly
> appreciated.....=)
>
> Time for a few beers and some sleep.....take care.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
Subject: | Questions on Prop |
I have a friend that does not use the internet and he has this questions for
a new prop he is considering.
- Looking for feedback on a Prince composite Q tip propeller on a RV4 or 6.
Performance
- comparisons, opinions, factory support, problems, or catastrophic
failures, number of flight
- hours, etc. Any info would be appreciated.
Any Help will be appreciated!
Brian Chesteen
RV-6 (Emp ordered)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
Subject: | Re: auto gas engines - was: Engine worth? |
Unleaded has no lead
100LL is restricted to 2 ml of tetraethyl lead per gallon
The max on 100-130 is 4.6 ml
Tetraethyl lead is one lead atom with four attached ethyl groups. I believe the
scavenger is ethylene dibromide in stochiometric ratio.
Larry Pardue wrote:
>
> >
> >I was talking with a friend, and RV-8 builder, about running auto gas in
> >Lycomings today, and maybe he's nuts, or maybe he was drinking, but he told
> >be that UN-leaded auto gas has more lead in it that 100LL.
> >
>
> Yeh, it must be one of the two. Unleaded auto gas has NO lead. 100 lowlead
> has a bunch of lead. That is the one that has the deceptive name.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
Subject: | RV-4 cowling installation |
Fellow Listers:
For those with a flying RV I have a question. I am about to begin
installation of the cowling on my -4 (180 hp, C/S prop). Is it advisable to
set the cowling slightly "low" relative to the prop spinner to allow for
engine "sag" in the future? Is this really a significant problem. I have
Lord engine mounts instead of the Barry mts.
Thanks,
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
> Anybody bought used parts (Bendix fuel injection or anything else) from Wentworth
in MSP? Satisfied? Comments?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>I had the 'fox outside today working on the flaperons
>and a car stopped in the driveway, (nothing unusual so far).
>A lady got out and had ID around her neck for The Indianapolis
>Star, the local newspaper. (this is where the unusual part comes in).
>She said she had seen the plane in the garage last tuesday and
>that they want to do a story on it! I told her ok. She is going
>to contact me about setting up an appointment. I thought I would
>explain about the EAA and this list being a great help to me.
>What do you guys think? Has anyone on the list been through this before?
I quit speaking to mediatypes about 10 years ago after this
crowning touch on mis-representing "the news:"
Dee and I were out flying one cool and smooth day at lunchtime
at the little airport we used to own. While landing, I noticed
a large, obviously non-amateur camera set up on a tripod out in
the grass and panning my landing. Needless to say I was more than
extra mindful of doing a good job. By the time we taxied around
to the hangar, reporter and cameraguy were hoofing it across the
field to talk to us.
Seems newspaper headlines for that morning spoke of "Six near
misses" in Wichita over the past year. What they wanted from me
was, "my reaction" to this frigntening revelation and, "what do you
think the FAA should do about it?"
How do you explain a very complex set of facts involving
pilot responsability, limitations of government owned
facilities and personel, and limits imposed by the laws
of physics and the current state of the art in anti-collision
technology. . . . and squeeze it into a 1 minute or less?
What appeared on the 6:00 o'clock news was, "local pilot
sez FAA's equipment broke and airline passengers are doomed."
What they used from my interview was two sound bytes
pulled out of context that appeared to support the
premise of their "news blurp".
Since that time, I've declined to speak to anyone from the
so called "news" media. When asked, I tell them, "because
you never get it right."
Obviously, an in-depth feature story is different than trying
to explain physics of the universe to to a wild-eyed,
sensationalist reporter. BUT . . . there are still risks.
I'd recommend that you agree to support the piece. Heaven
knows that we can use all the positive publicity we can
get. Try to extract a promise from the reporter that you
are allowed to proof the FINAL article before it goes to
print. The pitfalls are that while your project may be the
leading particular of the article, someone ELSE may decide
to provide background about a couple of accidents involving
amateur built aircraft. While the intent may be well-meaning,
the result could be that your wife gets piles of condolance
letters suggesting that she keep your life insurance paid up,
"your gonna need it lady." Amateur built aviation doesn't need
that kind of exposure. The only way to avoid this is to
get personally involved in the whole production effort for
the piece. Left to their own devices, media reporters and
writers are dismal purveyors of fact. Give the reporter
a couple of issues of Sport Aviation to read.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Century I wing-leveler gyro pinout |
From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Yes , I can help. I have a $58.00 manuel I got from Century. From it we
could build one.
That didn't help me. I bought a Slaved-bootstraped Gyro from ASOD &
wanted to use the little bug to drive my Century I autopilot, but I
finally found out I can't use that part because the a/p don't have the
right wistles.
the pin out for the 52D75-3 (no tracker board), the -4 ( has tracker) &
the 4M(tracker w/ lights)
can be downloaded from www.centuryflight.com. Good people. I got the
servo, gyro, harness, & connectors with the a/p used , not from Century.
I assume you didn't.
the CD-92 ( on the back of the gyro) shows on 79D182 drawing to be Item
40(32839),seal, connector (neoprene) Well thats no help.
Drawing 30C402 shows it to be (14)28S66 (amphenol 57-30140 ) 14 pin
shoes the 4 pin at the servo to be (15) 28S64
(smp 126-1427
the drawing shows a 1A526- relay box. ITs job is the use low current (
from a sw in the yoke) to handle the high current in the 2 solinoid wires
tho the servo. I didn't get it so I shorted CD49 to CD48 & use a on-off
switch to activate.
When you get to Centtry look for diagrams, them 69D875-2 for Century I.
Hope my rambling helped.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
>
> I've got a Century I Turn Cooridnator with Wing Leveler and Tracking
>
> cabability. Can anyone out there provide me the pin-out for this
> unit. It
> uses one of the older-style 14-pin "D" connectors (looks like a
> minature
> Centronics printer connector). My particular gyro was a Michell
> manufacture,
> model # 52D75-4. the -4 indicates the tracker function. The -3 was
> a wing
> leveler only.
>
> Regards,
>
> -Don
> RV8 NJ
>
August 07, 2000 - August 11, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ja