RV-Archive.digest.vol-je

August 29, 2000 - September 03, 2000



      >
      >
      ><< So, although the oil temperature is higher where the temperature sensor
      >is, the amount of heat
      >  removed from the engine oil is the same.
      >   >>
      >
      >yes, elsewise the engine would grow hotter until something melted... hard 
      >to
      >imagine this happening from a mere boost in oil pressure.
      >
      >What I've wondered all week is: if the oil moving faster through the cooler
      >gives it less time to exchange heat and therefore exits the cooler at 
      >higher
      >temp, does it not also flow through the engine faster, giving it less time 
      >to
      >absorb heat, and by exactly the same percentage?  Sounds lake a wash, to 
      >me.
      >Hard to see why there would be any net increase in operating temp as a 
      >result
      >of faster oil circulation.
      >
      >If that were so, we could REALLY cool our engines by slowing the oil flow 
      >WAY
      >down... NOT.
      >
      >Show me if I've missed something ...
      >
      >Bill Boyd
      >RV-6A  O-320 Sensenich FP
      >Hop-Along Airfield 12VA
      >Clifton Forge, VA
      
      
      Hey guys,
      
      There is a post in the archives from Bill Benedict regarding the different 
      ports on the back of the engine for connecting the "oil to cooler" hose.  
      The post basically reports that a Lycoming rep stated there can be a 10 
      degree or more difference in oil temperature depending on which location is 
      used.  I'm planning to relocate my oil to cooler hose from up next to the 
      return port, down to the most commonly used port very near the oil pump and 
      between the mags.  It would seem to me this simply takes the oil from a 
      higher pressure location in the system, thus increasing the flow rate 
      through the cooler, yielding lower oil temps?? Maybe??
      
      Anyway, check out the post and see if it might add some fuel to this oily 
      fire. ;)
      
      Brian Denk
      RV8 N94BD
      homecoming bound...with fresh paint.  Let's all pray for good WX.
      
      Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at 
      http://profiles.msn.com.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 29, 2000
Subject: Q TIP PROP
Doug What, if anything, do you know about a prop called a Q-tip Prop? Just thought there was a chance that you might know about this. Jim Nice WA State ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005390276@mail-2.lbay.net>; Tue, 29 Aug 2000 15:22:10.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 29, 2000
> Congrats! A wonderful experience I am sure. Now tell the inquiring minds > what needed attending to under the cowling? > > Bill OK Bill, When I inspected the airplane after it's maiden voyage, she was dribbling oil on her tummy. I also found that two of the screws holding the back plate of the bendix mag had backed out 1/8 inch. These were easily solved. The last gripe item I had was that the airplane was hard to push back into the hanger. At first I thought I had a bunch of grass and gunk in the wheel pants -- but I checked and they were fine. Maybe my knees were just a little weak after the thrill ride. It is obviously critical to remove the cowling and give the airplane a thorough inspection after these test flights. I spent 5 hours fixing gripes and preparing for tomorrow morning's flight. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, she's a virgin no longer - 1.6 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 29, 2000
Subject: Re: N9X takes flight!
Aint't it great. Congradulations. Terry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2000
From: Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com>
Subject: Re: Q TIP PROP
On Tue, 29 Aug 2000 JNice51355(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > What, if anything, do you know about a prop called a Q-tip Prop? Just Please, whatever you do, do not insert it into your ear canal. Glad to be helpful, -S ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2000
From: Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Lycoming Lubrication Schematic
> I think I will try the folks at Textron to see if I can rustle up an oil > flow diagram. > > Cheers, > > Tom Brown RV4 flying I have an 1960 version of the Lycoming Aircraft Overhaul Manual and scanned the schematic. You can see it at http://www3.sympatico.ca/rembree/lycominglube.html RE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FK27Bob(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 29, 2000
Subject: Re:Under Belly Skin Temperatures
In a message dated 8/27/00 3:02:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, RV4Brown(at)aol.com writes: > Would you believe I was seeing 140F in level flight at cruise! And I thought maybe you were getting a Total Air Temperature reading because of the blinding speed of the -4... Bob Moser Shop Prep and dreamin' of an -8 Tail ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2000
From: Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org>
Subject: Re:Flight testing - Oil pressure/Temperature Changes
Remember too, that the amount of oil in the engine has a direct effect on temperature. I read somewhere that it was about 15 deg f. per quart. So, the less oil in the engine the hotter it will run. Dave SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > In a message dated 08/28/2000 7:57:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > rembree(at)sympatico.ca writes: > > << So, although the oil temperature is higher where the temperature sensor > is, the amount of heat > removed from the engine oil is the same. > >> > > yes, elsewise the engine would grow hotter until something melted... hard to > imagine this happening from a mere boost in oil pressure. > > What I've wondered all week is: if the oil moving faster through the cooler > gives it less time to exchange heat and therefore exits the cooler at higher > temp, does it not also flow through the engine faster, giving it less time to > absorb heat, and by exactly the same percentage? Sounds lake a wash, to me. > Hard to see why there would be any net increase in operating temp as a result > of faster oil circulation. > > If that were so, we could REALLY cool our engines by slowing the oil flow WAY > down... NOT. > > Show me if I've missed something ... > > Bill Boyd > RV-6A O-320 Sensenich FP > Hop-Along Airfield 12VA > Clifton Forge, VA > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Stribling's" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: Re:Flight testing - Oil pressure/Temperature Changes
Date: Aug 29, 2000
> > << So, although the oil temperature is higher where the temperature sensor > is, the amount of heat > removed from the engine oil is the same. > >> Why must you analize this to death just change cooler position, get larger cooler or lower your oil pressure, And go have some fun. other wise you will turn paranoide about the whole plane and panic over nothing. Ken. Still waiting for finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 29, 2000
From: Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring lights
>I am in the process of planning my wiring. My idea is to use a rotary switch >to select pos1)taxi pos 2)landing + taxi and 3)pulse. This system would not >allow me to use the landing light without the taxi light. Am I giving up >something? If I were to simplify even more, is there a reason why the taxi >light and landing light cannot be simply ganged together? >robin wessel >Tigard, OR >RV-6A finishing Robin, Very soon, weeks, we will have available a Solid State WigWag unit that will; 1. Avoid switching at the panel the high currents demanded by Leading Edge lamps. 2. Allow you to create many combinations of functions using a variety of switches. The switches command the SSWW unit by switching on ground. They conduct only milli-amps so very low rated switches can be used. See the table below for all the possible modes. 3. Improve your visibility by WigWaging the lights. We have set the flash rate a touch slower than typical flashers in order to allow the filament to get to full bright. You will not only be noticed but also be seen from a greater distance. 4. Improve reliability by using 2 circuit breakers or fuses as inputs to the SSWW unit. The SSWW switches one input to the right light and the other input to the left light. The SSWW unit uses either for power. If one fuse blows, the SSWW and the other light still function. This is true even when the left and right lights are ganged together using one switch position such as off, both, WigWag. 5. The SSWW warms the filaments for longer bulb life. 6. The SSWW detects when a bulb is not conducting and lights an LED; one for each light. 7. Wiring is easier. Here is the table of functions that can be commanded with a switch(s) on the panel or stick. When Inputs 6, 7 and 8 are connected to ground via a switch or a combination of switches, the SSWW functions as shown in the table below. G = Grounded. Switch closed. F = Floating. Not connected to ground. Switch open. Switches Lights State SL SR SW LT RT 0 F F F off off 1 G F F on off ` 2 F G F off on 3 G G F on on 4 F F G Wigwag Wigwag 5 G F G on WigWag Wink the right light. 6 F G G Wigwag on Wink the left light. 7 G G G on on SSWW inputs SL, SR and SW can be connected to many different types of switches and switch combinations. For example, use one SPDT with the center or common terminal wired to ground, the up position wired to SL and also to SR, and the down position terminal wired to SW. Up the left and right leading edge lights come on. Switched down the leading edge lights WigWag. Robin, the rotary switch you mentioned could do all the functions you requested; off, each light on separately, both on, and WigWag for safety We will have a demo operating at Vans 9/2. Bob Bob Haan http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ bhaan(at)easystreet.com Portland, OR RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Band Saw
I just purchased a ProTech 9" bandsaw from Lowe's for $89 and I'm having second thoughts. I've found some info in the archives about the table top models designed for wood and composites work fine for the thin aluminum we are using.>snip< Believe it or not, I have used a very el-cheapo 10" band saw to cut 1" thick aluminum plate using a 3/8" wide wood-cutting blade. As a matter of fact, I have been using the same b;lade for years, and now use it for cutting any of the stock I need to for the -8. It makes a hell of a racket, and you have to feed the heavy stock slower than you wood for a true metal cutting set up but it works and is vastly cheaper. The only drawback is difficulty keeping the cut from wandering, but that is largely a feed pressure issue. Andy Johnson, fuselage, lots of bandsawing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Subject: IO-360
Date: Aug 29, 2000
I had a friend ask me how much a IO-360 A1A would go for. Zero time since overhauled. Estimates? I'm not trying to get an exact price, just ballpark. Steve Hurlbut shurlbut(at)island.net RV-6 emp C-FSND Comox, BC, Canada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Rob Hatwell <RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
> >Folks >I am planning on attending, but have not gone before. I have two brief >questions. >First is, "What type of attire do folks wear to the banquet?" and Second is, >"Will there be transportation to Wilsonville?" >Thanks >Jim Nice > > Two years ago I attended with my wife. I wore a jacket and tie and my wife commented that it was the first time in all of our years together that I have been overdressed for anything, she says that I'm usually at the other end of the scale See you all at the BBQ RV8 80274 -- Rob Hatwell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: IO-360
I've got Aerosport Power's (Bart Lalonde) price sheet here, $23,500 US outright w/ new crank. www.aerosportpower.com Jeff Point -6 wings Milwaukee, WI Steve Hurlbut wrote: > > I had a friend ask me how much a IO-360 A1A would go for. > Zero time since overhauled. > Estimates? I'm not trying to get an exact price, just ballpark. > > Steve Hurlbut > shurlbut(at)island.net > RV-6 emp > C-FSND > Comox, BC, Canada > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Congratulations, what a thrill it must be. Keep us posted on the gripes you find and great idea using the recorder Fran Malczynski Olcott, NY RV6, 0360-A1A, planning on Performance Propeller prop Working on finish kit -----Original Message----- From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue <clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue>; 29 Aug 2000 ; 29 Aug 2000 14:37:54.-0700(at)matronics.com <29 Aug 2000 14:37:54.-0700(at)matronics.com> Date: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 6:02 PM Subject: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > >Fellow Listers, >A great day! At dawn this morning, I lined RV-4 N9X up on runway 21 at Franklin Flying >Field and pored the coals to'er. Man can she climb! And ohh, what a view! And wow, >does the ground scoot along fast below! > >I followed my test plan, kept her within gliding distance of the field, and walked her through >the paces. I used a tiny tape recorder to dictate my gripe list, performance info and engine >temperatures/pressure. This worked well --- much better than trying to record them on a >knee board. Gripe list consisted of a heavy right wing. When I landed and removed the >cowling I had some things that definitely needed to be tended to. > >The landing was fun. Those gear legs have lots of spring in them. We went bouncy, bouncy >bouncy on the turf strip. Learning to land this thing is going to be fun --- it'll take some >finesse I think. > >I want to do it again! Soon! Like right now! OK, tomorrow at dawn I'll be climbing up >through the morning haze and we'll do it all over again. > >Thanks to all who have helped me prepare for this day. > >Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours >Indiana > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com>
Subject: Band Saw
Date: Aug 30, 2000
>I just purchased a ProTech 9" bandsaw from Lowe's for $89 and I'm >having second thoughts. Hi Bob! I had a quickbuild kit and I found the bandsaw one of my more usefull tools. To see if your bandsaw will be okay grab a piece of .125 sheet or angle and see how it handles it. That should be about the most you will be cutting. I think I went through 7 blades for my bandsaw during the construction of my airplane so it did get used a bit. It is very handy for cutting angle. I started using it to do most of my sheet cutting work that would fit because it was much faster that cutting with shears and the bandsaw doesn't deform the sheet at all. Depending on the route you take mounting the engine will require some fabrication work for ducts, oil coolers, etc. I found the bandsaw made a tidy job of that stuff. Gary Fesenbek RV6A ADS Dallas, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: IO-360
Steve Hurlbut wrote: > > I had a friend ask me how much a IO-360 A1A would go for. > Zero time since overhauled. > Estimates? I'm not trying to get an exact price, just ballpark. > > Steve Hurlbut > shurlbut(at)island.net > RV-6 emp > C-FSND > Comox, BC, Canada Aero Sport Power quoted me just over $23K earlier this year for that exact engine. Their price included lots of new hardware (cylinders, crankshaft, etc.) as well Lightspeed electronic ignition and all the usual accessories. I wound up getting an IO-360-A1B6 from them instead. Bart was great to deal with and spent some time on the phone with me on several occasions, both before and after I placed my deposit, answering questions and helping me to focus my requirements. I've heard that his engines are real works of art and I can't wait to see mine. It's supposed to be here in the next few weeks. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved) cockpit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net>
"Henson, Eric home" , "Laurence, Peter" , "Kuss, Charlie" , "Drew, Dave" , "Bromley, John"
Subject: Laugh Lines
Turns out that Joe Lieberman would not be the first Jew to serve directly under a U.S. President...... That person would be Monica Lewinsky. My mother taught me TO APPRECIATE A JOB WELL DONE-"If you're going to kill each other, do it outside - I just finished cleaning!" My mother taught me RELIGION - "You better pray that will come out of the> carpet." My mother taught me about TIME TRAVEL: "If you don't straighten up, I'm going to knock you into the middle of next week!" My mother taught me LOGIC: "Because I said so, that's why." My mother taught me FORESIGHT - "Make sure you wear clean underwear, in case you're in an accident." My mother taught me IRONY - "Keep laughing and I'll *give* you something tocry about." My mother taught me about the science of OSMOSIS - "Shut your mouth and eat your supper!" My mother taught me about CONTORTIONISM - "Will you *look* at the dirt on the back of your neck!" My mother taught me about STAMINA - "You'll sit there 'til all that spinach is finished." My mother taught me about WEATHER - "It looks as if a tornado swept through your room." My mother taught me how to solve PHYSICS PROBLEMS - "If I yelled because I saw a meteor coming toward you; would you listen then?" My mother taught me about HYPOCRISY - "If I've told you once, I've told you a million times - Don't Exaggerate!!!" My mother taught me THE CIRCLE OF LIFE - "I brought you into this world, and I can take you out." My mother taught me about BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION - "Stop acting like your father!" My mother taught me about ENVY - "There are millions of less fortunate children in this world who don't have wonderful parents like you do!" - Subject: The Frog...... There was this little boy about 12 years old walking down the sidewalk dragging a flattened frog on a string behind him. He comes up to the doorstep of a house of ill repute and knocks on the door. When the madam came to answer it, she saw the little boy and asked what he wanted. He said he wanted to have sex with one of the women inside, had the money to buy it, and wasn't leaving until he got it. The Madam figured, why not, so she told him to come in. Once he got in, she told him to pick any of the girls he liked. He asked her if any of the girls had any diseases, and of course the madam said no. But he said he'd heard that all the men were talking about having to go to the hospital and get shots after making love with Mable, and that was the girl he wanted. Since the little boy was so adamant and had the money to pay for it, the madam told him to go upstairs and go to the first room on the right. So he headed down the hall dragging the squashed frog behind him. Ten minutes later he came back down, still dragging the frog, paid the madam, and headed out the door, at which time the madam stopped him and asked him just why he picked the only girl she had in the place with adisease, instead of one of the others. He said: "Well, if you must know, tonight when I get home, my parents are going out to a restaurant to eat, leaving me at home with a baby-sitter. When they leave, I'm going to have sex with my baby-sitter, who happens to be very fond of cute little boys, and then she will get the disease that I just caught. When mom and dad get back, dad will take the baby-sitter home, and on the way, he'll jump the babysitter's bones, and he'll catch the disease. Then when dad gets home from the babysitters, he and mom will go to bed and they'll have sex, and mom will catch it. In the morning when dad goes to work, the milkman will deliver the milk, and he'll have a quickie with mom, and he'll catch it, and "HE'S the son-of-a-bitch who ran over my FROG!!" - An airplane was about to crash, and there were 5 passengers left, but only 4 parachutes. The first passenger, Bill Clinton said, "I am President of the United States, and I have a great responsibility, being the leader of nearly 300 million people, and a superpower, etc." So he took the first parachute, and jumped out of the plane. The second passenger, said, "I'm Antoine Walker, one of the best NBA basketball players, and the Boston Celtics need me, so I can't afford to die." So he took the second parachute, and jumped the plane. The third passenger, Hillary Clinton, said, "I am the wife of the President of the United States, and soon to be New York Senator, and I am the smartest woman in the world." So she took the third parachute and exited the plane. The fourth passenger, an old man, said to the fifth passenger, a 10-year-old Boy Scout, "I am old and frail and I don't have many years left, so as a Christian gesture and a good deed, I will sacrifice my life and let you have the last parachute." The boy scout said, "It's OK. There's a parachute left for you because the world's smartest woman took my backpack." _ When we were young and growing up and we saw 100 white men chasing 1 black man; it was called the Ku Klux Klan. Today they call it the PGA TOUR. - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net>
Subject: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Congrats Clay! Karl > -----Original Message----- > Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours > Indiana > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________ Thread-Index: AcASDG1h+MWame1JSyG/2vla6WWncQAeS2sA
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Thread-Topic: RV-List: N9X takes flight! CONGRATULATIONS! Great feeling, isn't it? I will come down this week sometime. Its been too foggy in the mornings to fly to work and have somebody pick me up at Metro, maybe this weekend I'll come by. Thanks! Bob Japundza RealMed Corporation www.realmed.com -----Original Message----- From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue [mailto:clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue] Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:43 PM Subject: RV-List: N9X takes flight! Fellow Listers, A great day! At dawn this morning, I lined RV-4 N9X up on runway 21 at Franklin Flying Field and pored the coals to'er. Man can she climb! And ohh, what a view! And wow, does the ground scoot along fast below! I followed my test plan, kept her within gliding distance of the field, and walked her through the paces. I used a tiny tape recorder to dictate my gripe list, performance info and engine temperatures/pressure. This worked well --- much better than trying to record them on a knee board. Gripe list consisted of a heavy right wing. When I landed and removed the cowling I had some things that definitely needed to be tended to. The landing was fun. Those gear legs have lots of spring in them. We went bouncy, bouncy bouncy on the turf strip. Learning to land this thing is going to be fun --- it'll take some finesse I think. I want to do it again! Soon! Like right now! OK, tomorrow at dawn I'll be climbing up through the morning haze and we'll do it all over again. Thanks to all who have helped me prepare for this day. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours Indiana ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Band Saw Tip
From: "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
---------- >From: RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saw >Date: Tue, Aug 29, 2000, 22:17 > > > > I just purchased a ProTech 9" bandsaw from Lowe's for $89 and I'm having > second thoughts. I've found some info in the archives about the table top > models designed for wood and composites work fine for the thin aluminum we > are using.>snip< > > Believe it or not, I have used a very el-cheapo 10" band saw to cut 1" thick > aluminum plate using a 3/8" wide wood-cutting blade. As a matter of fact, I > have been using the same b;lade for years, and now use it for cutting any of > the stock I need to for the -8. It makes a hell of a racket, and you have to > feed the heavy stock slower than you wood for a true metal cutting set up > but > it works and is vastly cheaper. The only drawback is difficulty keeping the > cut from wandering, but that is largely a feed pressure issue. Andy > Johnson, > fuselage, lots of bandsawing. Everyone should know that building an RV is primarily an undertaking which is focused on making aluminum dust in as many ways as possible. A Band Saw will get you into high gear in this task. Go for it. I offer the following two bits of band sawology, gleaned from lots of RV construction use over the last 8 years (Never used one for its intended wood cutting purpose!). I use an old single speed Sears with three wheels. I think it is the 59+ inch model referred to in other posts. Despite the fact that Sears specifically warns that it is only for wood, it works great on RV size aluminum parts. NO STEEL capability at all. Sears does sell a 14 TPI blade for it which says it is for soft metal. Go figure the logic. Anyway it lasts much longer than the 14 TPI general use blades. I have found them in both narrow and wide blade sizes. When the blade gets noisy and or "wanders" it is time to get a new one. Always have an extra on hand since this always happens at unexpected times. Happy sawing D Walsh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Clay, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Wings ready to mount) Niantic, CT Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Subject: C-Frame Table
Date: Aug 30, 2000
I am a little confused in my attempt to build a C-Frame table. I've seen a number of descriptions on the internet regarding the height and most are 3" plus a 1/4" top. This doesn't seem to be high enough for my Avery Tool. With the extender plugged in it looks like it stands a little less than 4". So I'm thinking that regular 2x4's with a 1/4" top should work (carpet possibly). Am I missing something? Bob Waalkes RV-8 - Still waiting on emp. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruce Meacham <bruceme(at)seanet.com>
Subject: RE: RV3-List: Wing incidence/twist
Date: Aug 30, 2000
I'm no expert, but there's one point, I'd like to comment on. > I'd half forgotten this, and didn't notice it again until I reached > higher speeds. At 185 mph I have to apply substantial right stick > pressure to keep wings level, and also left rudder to keep ball > centered. The aelarons produce limited adverse yaw, so I believe the rudder neads it's own trimming ( mine does too :) Bruce Meacham bruceme(at)exmsft.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruce Meacham <bruceme(at)seanet.com>
Subject: X-Country
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Though you guys might like to hear that my X-Country went suprisingly uneventful. PAE to LWM 2140nm. Routing was 49th parallel roughly great circle. Except for some them ant hills in Idaho and Montana and some weekend warrriors in Michigan that wanted an ohio size state over the lakes to do drills. Through Idaho/Montana, I just flew direct from Sand Point to Glaciar then roughly followed route 2 to Cut Banks, all at 11,500'. There were only about 2 min that I didn't have a suitable land-out site. (Thanks for the routing Johny). I stopped overnight in Kenmare, ND. Exceptinally nice folks, lent me their truck! Great place to stop. The remainder of the flight I flew at 9,500' indicated (11,000' density) and got 7gph at 160kts true with a honking 10-20kt tailwind, hooyah! All my legs where around 400nm and typically took 2.5hrs. I never landed with less than an hour of gas remaining from my 24.2 usable gallon tank, typically I had 8.2 usable gallon's left. Flow meter was very nice! Between the GPS and the flow meter, their's a whole new method for safely planning and fly x-countries. You can be a lot more flexable on routing and absolutely solid on go/no-go decisions. I'll write a web-page and post it. I flew the first leg at 11,500' (14k density) for terrain clearance. I saw 6.2 gph and 160kts true (and a 25kt tailwind)! But after a couple hours I could start feeling the classic symptomps of hypoxia (numb finger tips and a lite headed fealing) and flew the remaining legs at 9,500' (11k dens Alt). Johny, I flew within about 30nm of Roseau, I wanted to stop, but I had a mild case of get-there-itis and you said you probably wouldn't be there. Sorry, let's meet at OSH next year! Bruce Meacham www.seanet.com/~bruceme/ShotGun.htm bruceme(at)seanet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-List:Oil pressure/Temperature Changes - Results
Gentlemen: My thanks to Roger Embree for posting the lubrication diagram for a Lycoming engine! My apologies to those who are tired of this thread. Please hit delete. I like to understand why things have changed. In a mechanical device, a change from what was a normal operating condition can be indicative of a developing failure. I work for a firm that operates many large internal combustion engines. They talk to you if you know what to listen to and look for. After reading yesterdays posts, some questions were answered but it also raised other questions. I decided to call Bart LaBlonde - Sport Aero who rebuilt my engine and the Lycoming technical support line to ask their opinion as to what I was seeing. For those who are interested, the toll free number for Lycoming is (800) 258-3279. Bart's comments were as follows: The increase in oil pressure should increase flow through the engine components slightly but he couldn't identify any reason that an increase in pressure would cause an increase in oil operating temperature. Lycoming technical representative: He did not see any why there would be any correlation between the increase in pressure and a change in temperature. He stated that there are two outlet ports in the oil screen area that are fed from the oil pump discharge. The oil vernimer (oil temperature controller) when cold allows oil flow to pass through both ports. One port goes to the oil cooler inlet and the other directly to the engine crank case. The internal resistance of your oil cooler installation i.e. what size hoses you are using, length, size of cooler, etc., will determine how much oil flows through your oil cooler with a cold engine. The point is that there is always some flow through the oil cooler hot or cold. When the vernimer gets above 185F it closes off the direct port to the engine and 100% of the oil passes through the oil cooler. While on the telephone, I asked him his opinion about TCP fuel additive. He didn't feel it was necessary with this engine unless you were seeing lead deposits. It may be my imagination, but I think my engine is running better with the additive. It definitely has less tendency to backfire since I have been using the additive and the plugs have been staying cleaner. I also asked him about the tendency of my engine to backfire at idle when hot. He said he would target his efforts toward insulating fuel lines, heat shrouds on fuel pumps, throttle body, etc., to eliminate any potential hot spots. He felt the popping action was being caused by fuel vapor in the injection system causing a lean condition. He did not think this should be the problem for the in-flight idle popping which I also experience. He suggested setting the idle mixture for a 50 rpm rise from 1000 rpm when going to idle cutoff. Bart Lablonde had suggested 25 rpm. At this point, I am going to assume that the increase in my oil temperature may have been the result of a change in the oil flow pattern around the oil temperature sensor caused by cleaning the oil screen, vernimer, and the temperature probe itself. The probe had been kind of gooped up with a little sludge. So, I guess I'll go out and fly for a while and keep an eye on things. Tom Brown RV4 flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com>
Subject: C-Frame Table
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Bob, I built mine from 2 X 4's with a 3/4 inch plywood top and short pile carpet. With a plywood bottom resting shelf underneath. Just shim it up to whatever works for your tool and table. You can see it at: http://www.egroups.com/files/TennesseeRVBuilders/Brian%27s+Pictures/Mvc-030s .jpg You just want the die to just stick above the carpet. Brian Chesteen RV-6 Emp >I am a little confused in my attempt to build a C-Frame table. I've seen a >number of descriptions on the internet regarding the height and most are 3" >plus a 1/4" top. This doesn't seem to be high enough for my Avery Tool. >With the extender plugged in it looks like it stands a little less than 4". >So I'm thinking that regular 2x4's with a 1/4" top should work (carpet >possibly). Am I missing something? >Bob Waalkes >RV-8 - Still waiting on emp. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: C-Frame Table
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Bob, I built two "tables" with a 2x4 frame skinned with a piece of plywood and covered with carpet. The idea is to get your piece of aluminum at the level of your lower die (usually a male die). The carpet is strictly for scratch protection, but it could also serve as a height increasing device. Not rocket science, just supporting a flimsy skin (especially when you get to your rudder/elevators), and providing a small amount of protection from scratching. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ Working on wings >From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV LIST" >Subject: RV-List: C-Frame Table >Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 10:05:05 -0500 > > >I am a little confused in my attempt to build a C-Frame table. I've seen a >number of descriptions on the internet regarding the height and most are 3" >plus a 1/4" top. This doesn't seem to be high enough for my Avery Tool. >With the extender plugged in it looks like it stands a little less than 4". >So I'm thinking that regular 2x4's with a 1/4" top should work (carpet >possibly). Am I missing something? > >Bob Waalkes >RV-8 - Still waiting on emp. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV8 F804 bulkhead assy.
Hi folks I just assembled my F-804 bulkhead, using the supplied NAS close tolerance 1/4" bolts. I made 4 spar spacers out of steel and machined them 0.004 over. Interestingly, with a washer on the head side and the nut side, the nut runs out of threads before the nut is fully seated. the nut/bolt combo feels snug but can be easily turned with no effort in the F-804 assy. My fuse has not arrived yet so I don't know if there is a call for more washers, I guesstimate a thin washer would be sufficient to take care of the problem. Anybody else seems this problem ?? Gert -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV-4 question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Where in the plans are the drawings for the cover(s) that cover the battery compartment and stick guts on the RV-4? I hope that's clear... -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: C-Frame Table
From: Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this time, BUT I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the width of the table. Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com ********************************************** writes: > > I am a little confused in my attempt to build a C-Frame table. I've > seen a > number of descriptions on the internet regarding the height and most > are 3" > plus a 1/4" top. This doesn't seem to be high enough for my Avery > Tool. > With the extender plugged in it looks like it stands a little less > than 4". > So I'm thinking that regular 2x4's with a 1/4" top should work > (carpet > possibly). Am I missing something? > > Bob Waalkes > RV-8 - Still waiting on emp. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: C-Frame Table
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Don, I have to agree with you there. Building the C-frame table is a great idea if you're doing this in order to build the table. If on the other hand you want to build an airplane...take a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 and a couple scrap pieces of 1x4 and use them to hold the piece you are working on close to the proper level. It's really not hard, I've never worked metal in my life and I found it to be pretty easy....once I figured out how to hold the top skin with my chin, the bottom with my hand, the wood hammer with my other hand, the spring loaded set with my other hand, all while talking to the girlfriend, explaining the process to the always curious neighbors and keep from falling over all at the same time. Sounds fun eh? Really, it's not all that bad......really...uh, seriously. Honest. (kinda) Bill -4 wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don R Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:01 PM Subject: RV-List: C-Frame Table > > After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this time, > BUT > I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the width of > the table. > Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ********************************************** > > writes: > > > > I am a little confused in my attempt to build a C-Frame table. I've > > seen a > > number of descriptions on the internet regarding the height and most > > are 3" > > plus a 1/4" top. This doesn't seem to be high enough for my Avery > > Tool. > > With the extender plugged in it looks like it stands a little less > > than 4". > > So I'm thinking that regular 2x4's with a 1/4" top should work > > (carpet > > possibly). Am I missing something? > > > > Bob Waalkes > > RV-8 - Still waiting on emp. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005423946@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:19:14.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Thanks Terry, Clay > ** Original Subject: Re: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > ** Original Sender: TColeE(at)AOL.COM > ** Original Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 16:08:33 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Aint't it great. Congradulations. Terry > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424449@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:35:14.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Thanks Karl. Its really good to be in the air with that thing. Clay > ** Original Subject: RE: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > ** Original Sender: "Karl Schilling" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 06:40:52 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Congrats Clay! Karl > > > -----Original Message----- > > Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours > > Indiana > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424486@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:36:02.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Great Bob. I should be around on Saturday morning. Clay > ** Original Subject: RE: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > ** Original Sender: "Bob Japundza" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 07:05:22 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > CONGRATULATIONS! Great feeling, isn't it? I will come down this week > sometime. Its been too foggy in the mornings to fly to work and have > somebody pick me up at Metro, maybe this weekend I'll come by. > > Thanks! > > Bob Japundza > RealMed Corporation > www.realmed.com > > > -----Original Message-----From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue [mailto:clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue] > Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:43 PM > To: RV List > Subject: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > > > > Fellow Listers, > A great day! At dawn this morning, I lined RV-4 N9X up on runway 21 at > Franklin Flying > Field and pored the coals to'er. Man can she climb! And ohh, what a > view! And wow, > does the ground scoot along fast below! > > I followed my test plan, kept her within gliding distance of the field, > and walked her through > the paces. I used a tiny tape recorder to dictate my gripe list, > performance info and engine > temperatures/pressure. This worked well --- much better than trying to > record them on a > knee board. Gripe list consisted of a heavy right wing. When I landed > and removed the > cowling I had some things that definitely needed to be tended to. > > The landing was fun. Those gear legs have lots of spring in them. We > went bouncy, bouncy > bouncy on the turf strip. Learning to land this thing is going to be > fun --- it'll take some > finesse I think. > > I want to do it again! Soon! Like right now! OK, tomorrow at dawn > I'll be climbing up > through the morning haze and we'll do it all over again. > > Thanks to all who have helped me prepare for this day. > > Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours > Indiana > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424790@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:45:16.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-4 question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Scott, The battery does not get covered unless you invent something yourself. The stick covers you see so many people using are purchased from George & Becky Orndorff. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 2.5 hours & still grinning like a goofball > ** Original Subject: RV-List: RV-4 question > ** Original Sender: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:51:27 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Where in the plans are the drawings for the cover(s) that cover the battery > compartment and stick guts on the RV-4? I hope that's clear... > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com>
Subject: C-Frame Table
Date: Aug 30, 2000
You guys are missing one key thing here . . . Bob is "Still waiting on emp." When your waiting on your kit to arrive and have nothing to assemble, you'll do anything that makes you feel like you're making progress. Nailing together a couple boards is not nearly as satisfying as creating a "dimpling workspace". Having said that, it's likely I'll be building a "dimpling workspace" while waiting for my empennage also! Todd Houg Soon to order empennage -----Original Message----- From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)mindspring.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 3:30 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: C-Frame Table Don, I have to agree with you there. Building the C-frame table is a great idea if you're doing this in order to build the table. If on the other hand you want to build an airplane...take a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 and a couple scrap pieces of 1x4 and use them to hold the piece you are working on close to the proper level. It's really not hard, I've never worked metal in my life and I found it to be pretty easy....once I figured out how to hold the top skin with my chin, the bottom with my hand, the wood hammer with my other hand, the spring loaded set with my other hand, all while talking to the girlfriend, explaining the process to the always curious neighbors and keep from falling over all at the same time. Sounds fun eh? Really, it's not all that bad......really...uh, seriously. Honest. (kinda) Bill -4 wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don R Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:01 PM Subject: RV-List: C-Frame Table > > After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this time, > BUT > I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the width of > the table. > Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ********************************************** > > writes: > > > > I am a little confused in my attempt to build a C-Frame table. I've > > seen a > > number of descriptions on the internet regarding the height and most > > are 3" > > plus a 1/4" top. This doesn't seem to be high enough for my Avery > > Tool. > > With the extender plugged in it looks like it stands a little less > > than 4". > > So I'm thinking that regular 2x4's with a 1/4" top should work > > (carpet > > possibly). Am I missing something? > > > > Bob Waalkes > > RV-8 - Still waiting on emp. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: FW: Covers
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Thanks to all who answered (and miraculously understood my vague) questions! -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Bell [mailto:rv4bell(at)door.net] Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:03 PM Subject: Covers Scott, There are none. You will have to make your own. Best regards, Bruce Bell Laying up landing gear intersection fairings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
In a message dated 08/30/2000 1:00:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time, RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk writes: << she says that I'm usually at the other end of the scale >> Rob Then I guess I'll feel right at home, although I'm sure she will wear a dress for the banquet. See You There Jim Nice WA State p.s. God, I hope I can fly instead of drive. Please make the weather co-operate. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
AMEN ON THE WEATHER, JIM. BILL BRUTON TACOMA, WA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Wire Lacing
Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? John Danielson Fuselage, Instrument panel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
dumb question#6,593...when IS Van's homecoming? JNice51355(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > In a message dated 08/30/2000 1:00:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk writes: > > << she says that I'm usually at > the other end of the scale >> > Rob > Then I guess I'll feel right at home, although I'm sure she will wear a dress > for the banquet. > See You There > Jim Nice > WA State > p.s. God, I hope I can fly instead of drive. Please make the weather > co-operate. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: C-Frame Table
Don R Jordan wrote: > > > After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this time, > BUT > I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the width of > the table. > Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com Don, you are indeed a brave (foolhardy?) man to post an opinion on this list! :-) I too started out by using blocks like you describe and they work. BUT........the table is sooooooo much more convenient. The problem I had with the blocks was that, as you mentioned, you have to move them, and I found the edge of the sheet I was dimpling would often catch on a block that wasn't in exactly the right position. Perhaps some of the new builders haven't seen my 1997 model dimpling table, so here tis: http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/odd-ends.html#dimpling table Keep in mind that you don't have to use blocks, a table, or anything. But the table sure does make a very monotonous (and potentially damaging) process a lot easier. Of course, any planes not built with a dimpling table are subject to falling out of the sky just as those that aren't totally primed.... ;-) Sam Buchanan (dimpling table disassembled long ago) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
SMART REPLY #675442 THIS WEEKEND, JOLLY SAT, SUN, MON AT AURORA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: IO-360
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Van's sell these brand new for only a few thousand more - I believe around 29K for the IO-360-A1A 200HP. Would there be any advantage at all in getting an 'older' engine for just 6K that is 'zeroed'??? I'm asking this since I'm also looking for an IO-360. I don't mind paying the 29K for a new engine from Van's but like to see if there are any reasons why I shouldn't. For instance: Are there more accessories included from Aero Sport than if I buy a new engine? If so, how much (roughly) does these items add up to if I went with all new equipment. Are RV-8 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch Sent: August 30, 2000 8:24 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Aero Sport Power quoted me just over $23K earlier this year for that exact engine. Their price included lots of new hardware (cylinders, crankshaft, etc.) as well Lightspeed electronic ignition and all the usual accessories. I wound up getting an IO-360-A1B6 from them instead. Bart was great to deal with and spent some time on the phone with me on several occasions, both before and after I placed my deposit, answering questions and helping me to focus my requirements. I've heard that his engines are real works of art and I can't wait to see mine. It's supposed to be here in the next few weeks. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved) cockpit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: C-Frame Table
Date: Aug 30, 2000
That's what I did. I ripped four 2' long 4x4's down to the same height as the dimple in the c-frame. I put a strip of duct tape on them for scratch protection too. Very versatile. Time: 12.3 minutes. Cost: 37 cents. Larry Bowen RV-8 fuse, seat bulkheads. Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com Web: http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > > > After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this time, > BUT I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the width of > the table. Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Steve Gregory <sgregory(at)best.com>
Subject: Golden West EAA Regional Fly-In 2000
Hi Listers! Don't forget the Golden West EAA Regional Fly-In 2000 this September 8, 9 and 10th (week and a half away) at Sacramento Executive Airport just south of Sacramento, CA. Aircraft Spruce is sponsoring an air race from Corona, CA to overhead Franklin Field, CA (12 miles south of Sacramento Exec). Pilots will continue on and land at Sac Exec. This race is on Friday, September 8th. (All you SoCal RV'ers can show the rest of us how fast you are!) It's going to be a great fly-in with display aircraft, forums, exhibitors, etc. I look forward to seeing you there. If you have any questions, please check the website at www.gwfly-in.org or call me at the phone number below. Blue Skies.... Steve Gregory Director, Golden West Aviation Association, Inc. RV8qb (N884SG reserved) ERA Golden Hills Brokers 3223 Crow Canyon Rd #110 San Ramon, CA 94583 Direct 925/543-2595 FAX 925/275-3531 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Wire Lacing
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Dental floss is not sticky enough, it will come untied. The nylon lace that is used to tie wires is coated with a semi-sticky wax that helps hold the knot and keeps it from slipping up or down the wire bundle. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM [mailto:JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:06 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Wire Lacing Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? John Danielson Fuselage, Instrument panel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Jeens" <kenjeens(at)home.com>
Subject: Tool Question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. Ken Jeens RV6a tail kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: IO-360
Hi Are, I went through a similar thinking process about six months ago before ordering my engine from Bart. The reasons I eventually went with an Aero Sport engine vs. new from Van's were (in no particular order): 1) Lightspeed ignition, which I preferred to Lasar. Bart explained that he could get a little more aggressive with the timing on the Lightspeed, which would equate to more HP. Others may have different priorities. 2) Airflow Performance fuel injection. I was sold on it awhile ago. I hope my experience will justify my anticipation. 3) Bart runs the engines in a test cell before shipping. This will slightly lessen the usual new engine dilemma of needing to be run at full power just when you don't want to do so (first flight of a new airplane). 4) Bart's reputation for high quality engines and great customer service. 5) The difference in price between Bart's engine and the new one from Van's could be applied to other things -- like avionics, for example. Just my five cents, but that's why I went with Bart. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved) cockpit stuff Are Barstad wrote: > > Van's sell these brand new for only a few thousand more - I believe around > 29K for the IO-360-A1A 200HP. Would there be any advantage at all in getting > an 'older' engine for just 6K that is 'zeroed'??? > > I'm asking this since I'm also looking for an IO-360. I don't mind paying > the 29K for a new engine from Van's but like to see if there are any reasons > why I shouldn't. For instance: Are there more accessories included from Aero > Sport than if I buy a new engine? If so, how much (roughly) does these items > add up to if I went with all new equipment. > > Are > RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: IO-360
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Steve, I paid $19,000 for our IO-360 to include starter, magneto and fuel injector servo. It came zero time with a five hour break-in and a factory style warranty. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: IO-360 >Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 22:08:12 -0700 > > >I had a friend ask me how much a IO-360 A1A would go for. >Zero time since overhauled. >Estimates? I'm not trying to get an exact price, just ballpark. > >Steve Hurlbut >shurlbut(at)island.net >RV-6 emp >C-FSND >Comox, BC, Canada > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)swcp.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Lacing
> >Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? > >John Danielson >Fuselage, Instrument panel I'll defer that question to Bob or others, but if you want something a little more reliable, look for Gudebrod lacing cord at electronics distributors or surplus stores. A quick web search came up with several hits with this one the most promising: http://www.versatileindustrial.com/gudebrod.html A little more expensive than dental floss, but 500 yards sure goes a long way! By the way, there are definite techniques to tying the knot. You basically make two loops around the bundle and trap the first part of the knot under the outer loop. I'm not sure I can explain it - I'll see if I can find a reference, though, and reply direct if I come up with a drawing or instructions. Regards, Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Subject: RV-8 Kit for sale
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Hello listers, After 3.5 years in the Seattle area, I am moving back to Ottawa Canada. I have decided to try and sell my kit rather risk moving it that far. Plus I wont have the space to work on it for the next year or so. I will probably start over with a Quick-Build then. It is RV-8 Kit # 80047: a.. the empennage is complete, b.. the wings are ready to close, c.. fuel tanks done by Don London, d.. above are all epoxy primed inside and out, e.. brand new fuselage kit, still in the crate. f.. Van's wiring kit g.. 3 DuckWorks lights (two landing, one taxi) (don't ask) h.. AOA sensor mounted in left wing (no display) i.. Was inspected twice by Jon Ammeter j.. Will sell Air Compressor if you want it. Located in Bellevue, WA Make me an offer. Sylvain Duford 425.260.1132 "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler...", Albert Einstein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
thanks...somehow I thought it was next week....i'll be there for sure...I'm the guy/nut that has the ercoupe in the yard on final (left) at the west end of the field.. aurora....jolly Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > SMART REPLY #675442 THIS WEEKEND, JOLLY SAT, SUN, MON AT AURORA > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Tool Question
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
I would get one that reads inch pounds and foot pounds. Shelby Smith shelbysmith(at)mac.com ---------- >From: "Ken Jeens" <kenjeens(at)home.com> >To: "RV List" >Subject: RV-List: Tool Question >Date: Wed, Aug 30, 2000, 7:39 PM > > > I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, > what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? > The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. > > Ken Jeens > RV6a > tail kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
The Sears torque wrench that I figure I'll use the most is the small one rated in inch lbs. Later on for some of the engine, wing mounting etc. you'll probably need the larger one (ft. lbs). I find I use both size frequently on other things besides just the plane stuff. Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Jeens" <kenjeens(at)home.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Tool Question > > I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, > what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? > The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. > > Ken Jeens > RV6a > tail kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
I have 2 torque wrenches a big one, never used on the rv kit and a small wrench with a range of 5 to 50 inch-lbs. This one I use all the time. I like the small one because the AN3 torque is midrange of the wrench. It is a Matco and I am very happy with it. I have seen some other smaller wrenches where the lower torque was 20 to 24 inch-lbs. When you read the calibration sheets you'll find that the lower limit can be a crap shoot and percent deviation increases as repeatability decreases. I recently (Oshkosh) acquired a torque screwdriver. I did this because of the tank attach bolts not being accessable with a torque wrench. The torque screwdriver has a range from 6-36 inch-lbs. Hope this helps Ken Jeens wrote: > > > I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, > what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? > The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. > > Ken Jeens > RV6a > tail kit > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Control Tube Clearance
Date: Aug 30, 2000
> >I am hanging the ailerons and flaps on my RV-6A. With the flap 1/4" from the >aileron, the aileron control rod makes contact with the top of the flap skin >(where it makes the curve near the rear wing spar) when the aileron is in the >full down deflection. It seems that I would have to trim about 1/4" to 1/2" >off the edge of the flap skin at the top curl to get proper clearance. Any >suggestions or comments would be appreciated. By the way, I double checked >and the aileron is at exactly 55 3/4" from the root rib as called out in the >plans. >Thanks, >Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi Trim as necessary. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Torque screw driver
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
How much and who make that one? -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- >From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Question >Date: Wed, Aug 30, 2000, 9:42 PM > > I recently (Oshkosh) acquired a torque screwdriver. I did this because > of the tank attach bolts not being accessable with a torque wrench. > > The torque screwdriver has a range from 6-36 inch-lbs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: X-Country
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Bruce, if you just could tell us your AP type, engine and prop we could compare your fine data with others. Thanks. -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Meacham <bruceme(at)seanet.com> Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:57 AM Subject: RV-List: X-Country > >Though you guys might like to hear that my X-Country went suprisingly >uneventful. PAE to LWM 2140nm. Routing was 49th parallel roughly great >circle. Except for some them ant hills in Idaho and Montana and some weekend >warrriors in Michigan that wanted an ohio size state over the lakes to do >drills. > >Through Idaho/Montana, I just flew direct from Sand Point to Glaciar then >roughly followed route 2 to Cut Banks, all at 11,500'. There were only about 2 >min that I didn't have a suitable land-out site. (Thanks for the routing >Johny). > >I stopped overnight in Kenmare, ND. Exceptinally nice folks, lent me their >truck! Great place to stop. > >The remainder of the flight I flew at 9,500' indicated (11,000' density) and >got 7gph at 160kts true with a honking 10-20kt tailwind, hooyah! All my legs >where around 400nm and typically took 2.5hrs. I never landed with less than an >hour of gas remaining from my 24.2 usable gallon tank, typically I had 8.2 >usable gallon's left. Flow meter was very nice! Between the GPS and the flow >meter, their's a whole new method for safely planning and fly x-countries. You >can be a lot more flexable on routing and absolutely solid on go/no-go >decisions. I'll write a web-page and post it. > >I flew the first leg at 11,500' (14k density) for terrain clearance. I saw 6.2 >gph and 160kts true (and a 25kt tailwind)! But after a couple hours I could >start feeling the classic symptomps of hypoxia (numb finger tips and a lite >headed fealing) and flew the remaining legs at 9,500' (11k dens Alt). > >Johny, I flew within about 30nm of Roseau, I wanted to stop, but I had a mild >case of get-there-itis and you said you probably wouldn't be there. Sorry, >let's meet at OSH next year! > >Bruce Meacham >www.seanet.com/~bruceme/ShotGun.htm >bruceme(at)seanet.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Torque wrench? Ok, more tools are always good. I have 3/8 and 1/2 inch. I use the 3/8 most by far. Get the click type, not the swinging needle.... You won't need it in RV building until you are very well along. But, it will be needed when you build that race car. :-) Bill -4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Jeens" <kenjeens(at)home.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Tool Question > > I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, > what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? > The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. > > Ken Jeens > RV6a > tail kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: oil pressure fittings
Would like to double check a fews details with those wiser and more experienced; about to install the fitting on the back of my 0-320 DIA for the oil pressure sensor line. The lycoming manual just kinda points to the upper right side near the engine mount. There are two 1/8" pipe ports on the rear of the engine one pointing straight back and one pointing out to the right, inline with the cylinders. There is also a port in front of the engine mount pointing up. I would like to use the one pointing straight back, just under the vac. pump -- is this the one? Also will follow Van's advise on restrictor fittings -- tapp the inside and screw in a drilled bolt with the head cut off. Does it matter which side of the fitting, pipe or flared side to tapp? Also should I use something like loctite to secure it? Thanks, Warren Moore RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Control Tube Clearance
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > I am hanging the ailerons and flaps on my RV-6A. With the flap 1/4" from the > aileron, the aileron control rod makes contact with the top of the flap skin > (where it makes the curve near the rear wing spar) when the aileron is in the > full down deflection. It seems that I would have to trim about 1/4" to 1/2" > off the edge of the flap skin at the top curl to get proper clearance. Any > suggestions or comments would be appreciated. By the way, I double checked > and the aileron is at exactly 55 3/4" from the root rib as called out in the > plans. > Thanks, > Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi > All systems normal. We just trimed my hangar mates for the exact same reason. Mine was also the same way. -- Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado RV-6A N99PZ Flying Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A with H2AD Pistons Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Tool Question
of all the tools i have, and i have accumulated a bunch, the pneumatic squeezer is by far the best luxury tool i own. fortunately i found out early that this gem is a god send for squeezing those 1/8 inch rivets. drilling out rivets can be one of the most frustrating things for a rookie builder (along with being broke). so member dis, when you get so hacked off about the poor rivet u set by hand or the one that got lop sided and u gota drill out and hole is too big and on and on, MEMBER DA PNEUMATIC!!! btw, u can set poor rivets with a puematic if your not paying attention or the rivet is too long. good luck, bob in hot -111 degrees today- in ark doing wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Aileron Control Tube Clearance
In a message dated 8/30/00 6:55:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes: << It seems that I would have to trim about 1/4" to 1/2" off the edge of the flap skin at the top curl to get proper clearance. >> I had to do the same thing and from previous posts on this list I understand this to be pretty standard. Can't answer why the plans don't show this. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, working on canopy installation ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Tool Question
Snip I have 3/8 and 1/2 inch. I use the 3/8 most by far. snip The drive size isn't important (unless you only have one set of sockets), it's the torque and range that is. snip You won't need it in RV building until you are very well along. But, it will be needed when you build that race car. :-) Bill -4 snip Now Bill... you are torquing your AN3 bolts on the wing spar, aren't you???? ;-) Since AN3's are torqued at, now let's see...where is that 43.13, 20-25 in lbs and the AN4 is 50-70 in lbs, I like to use a screwdriver type, 1/4 drive, torque wrench that has a range of 25-125 in lbs. Mine happens to be a snap-on, but the craftsman is good too. Remember to add the drag of the nyloc to the torque limit. If it takes 5 in lbs to turn the nut on the bolt before its up against the stop, add 5 to the 20-25 for a real reading of 25-30. Be sure to use inspectors paint after torquing to remind yourself which have been torqued and which have not. Hope to see you all up at Homecoming (weather permitting). Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 72 hrs O-360, Sensenich (83") SoCal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Date: Aug 31, 2000
True, you CAN set poor rivets with the pneumatic. BUT, my girlfriend (who wouldn't know a rivet gun from a water gun) hasn't managed to squeeze a bad one yet and she riveted quite a bit or my left elevator. She did get an entire 20 seconds of instruction before she said 'just let me do it, I've been watching'. I was nervous....for no reason. Pneumatic all the way....wouldn't build without it. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 12:29 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Question > > of all the tools i have, and i have accumulated a bunch, the pneumatic > squeezer is by far the best luxury tool i own. fortunately i found out early > that this gem is a god send for squeezing those 1/8 inch rivets. drilling out > rivets can be one of the most frustrating things for a rookie builder (along > with being broke). so member dis, when you get so hacked off about the poor > rivet u set by hand or the one that got lop sided and u gota drill out and > hole is too big and on and on, MEMBER DA PNEUMATIC!!! > btw, u can set poor rivets with a puematic if your not paying attention or > the rivet is too long. good luck, bob in hot -111 degrees today- in ark doing > wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Griffin" <skydog-8(at)home.com>
Subject: drill bit question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
I, while not the worlds athority, have been a model maker machinist for over twenty years. In my tool box I have four sets of drills. Numbers, Letters, Fractions, and Metric (in .1mm increments). There are drills in those indexes that have never seen the light of day in all those years. Right off the bat do yourself two favors. #1) Don't buy drills from Harbor Freight (you might be able to find worse quality if you really put some effort into it). #2) Don't waste your money on a 119 piece set, of which probably 90 of them will go un-touched (put your extra money in a set of Number size reamers if you can't find anywhere else to spend it). Now as for titanium-nitride coated stuff, it's gold, it's gorgeous, it's expensive..........leave it alone. High-Speed steel is the bare minimum that you should settle for. Cobalt is better, and will truely last longer (if you do your part and don't dwell in the work piece). As others have mentioned, buy yourself a 12" #30, a 12" #40, a hand full of jobber length # 30's, a hand full of jobber length # 40's, some #12's, #19's, 3/16ths, 1/4, 3/8ths, some unibits, and then see what else you may need as you go along. Spend your money wisely, and then buy an Andair Fuel Valve later on............................ Randy Griffin Griff N925RG (reserved) RV-8 Turtle Build Fuse Vancouver, Wa. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 7:03 PM Subject: RV-List: drill bit question i gota few extra $ this month and already own a cheap $30 set of drills (1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths) drill bits. i am wanting to order more, i.e. by number and possibly letter sizes. three questions: 1. is the high dollar bits that are cobalt and meet nas 907 type j specs really worth it? (avery) 2. are the wire size-letter bits used that much? i don't even see letter sizes offered in avery cat. i am seeing a variety of sets in all the other tool cats. and not sure if i am throwing money away. i even found a 119 piece set at harbor (all 3 sets of sizes) for $40. and $60 for the titanium coated. 3. is the titanium worth it? thanx, guys, bob in ark doin wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: another band saw question
simply, has anyone got that $179 harbor freight metal bands, if so, tell me about it. thanx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: oil pressure fittings
In a message dated 8/30/00 9:05:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time, MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM writes: << I would like to use the one pointing straight back, just under the vac. pump -- is this the one?>> Yes. << Also will follow Van's advise on restrictor fittings -- tap the inside and screw in a drilled bolt/screw with the head cut off. Does it matter which side of the fitting, pipe or flared side to tap?>> I would recommend tapping from the flare end if for no other reason than that's how I did it. Drill the plug out to .040" << Also should I use something like Loctite to secure it? >> Yes. 242 or 471 should both work fine. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Griffin" <skydog-8(at)home.com>
Subject: Wire Lacing
Date: Aug 30, 2000
You probably need to ask Don MacNamara this question! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:06 PM Subject: RV-List: Wire Lacing Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? John Danielson Fuselage, Instrument panel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424449@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:35:14.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Thanks Karl. Its really good to be in the air with that thing. Clay > ** Original Subject: RE: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > ** Original Sender: "Karl Schilling" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 06:40:52 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Congrats Clay! Karl > > > -----Original Message----- > > Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours > > Indiana > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005423946@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:19:14.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Thanks Terry, Clay > ** Original Subject: Re: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > ** Original Sender: TColeE(at)AOL.COM > ** Original Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 16:08:33 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Aint't it great. Congradulations. Terry > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424486@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:36:02.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Great Bob. I should be around on Saturday morning. Clay > ** Original Subject: RE: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > ** Original Sender: "Bob Japundza" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 07:05:22 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > CONGRATULATIONS! Great feeling, isn't it? I will come down this week > sometime. Its been too foggy in the mornings to fly to work and have > somebody pick me up at Metro, maybe this weekend I'll come by. > > Thanks! > > Bob Japundza > RealMed Corporation > www.realmed.com > > > -----Original Message-----From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue [mailto:clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue] > Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:43 PM > To: RV List > Subject: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > > > > Fellow Listers, > A great day! At dawn this morning, I lined RV-4 N9X up on runway 21 at > Franklin Flying > Field and pored the coals to'er. Man can she climb! And ohh, what a > view! And wow, > does the ground scoot along fast below! > > I followed my test plan, kept her within gliding distance of the field, > and walked her through > the paces. I used a tiny tape recorder to dictate my gripe list, > performance info and engine > temperatures/pressure. This worked well --- much better than trying to > record them on a > knee board. Gripe list consisted of a heavy right wing. When I landed > and removed the > cowling I had some things that definitely needed to be tended to. > > The landing was fun. Those gear legs have lots of spring in them. We > went bouncy, bouncy > bouncy on the turf strip. Learning to land this thing is going to be > fun --- it'll take some > finesse I think. > > I want to do it again! Soon! Like right now! OK, tomorrow at dawn > I'll be climbing up > through the morning haze and we'll do it all over again. > > Thanks to all who have helped me prepare for this day. > > Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours > Indiana > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424790@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:45:16.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-4 question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Scott, The battery does not get covered unless you invent something yourself. The stick covers you see so many people using are purchased from George & Becky Orndorff. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 2.5 hours & still grinning like a goofball > ** Original Subject: RV-List: RV-4 question > ** Original Sender: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:51:27 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Where in the plans are the drawings for the cover(s) that cover the battery > compartment and stick guts on the RV-4? I hope that's clear... > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: tchoug <tchoug(at)micron.com>
Subject: C-Frame Table
Date: Aug 30, 2000
You guys are missing one key thing here . . . Bob is "Still waiting on emp." When your waiting on your kit to arrive and have nothing to assemble, you'll do anything that makes you feel like you're making progress. Nailing together a couple boards is not nearly as satisfying as creating a "dimpling workspace". Having said that, it's likely I'll be building a "dimpling workspace" while waiting for my empennage also! Todd Houg Soon to order empennage -----Original Message----- From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)mindspring.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 3:30 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: C-Frame Table Don, I have to agree with you there. Building the C-frame table is a great idea if you're doing this in order to build the table. If on the other hand you want to build an airplane...take a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 and a couple scrap pieces of 1x4 and use them to hold the piece you are working on close to the proper level. It's really not hard, I've never worked metal in my life and I found it to be pretty easy....once I figured out how to hold the top skin with my chin, the bottom with my hand, the wood hammer with my other hand, the spring loaded set with my other hand, all while talking to the girlfriend, explaining the process to the always curious neighbors and keep from falling over all at the same time. Sounds fun eh? Really, it's not all that bad......really...uh, seriously. Honest. (kinda) Bill -4 wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don R Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:01 PM Subject: RV-List: C-Frame Table > > After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this time, > BUT > I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the width of > the table. > Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ********************************************** > > writes: > > > > I am a little confused in my attempt to build a C-Frame table. I've > > seen a > > number of descriptions on the internet regarding the height and most > > are 3" > > plus a 1/4" top. This doesn't seem to be high enough for my Avery > > Tool. > > With the extender plugged in it looks like it stands a little less > > than 4". > > So I'm thinking that regular 2x4's with a 1/4" top should work > > (carpet > > possibly). Am I missing something? > > > > Bob Waalkes > > RV-8 - Still waiting on emp. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005427497@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:06:35.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
In a message dated 08/30/2000 1:00:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time, RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk writes: << she says that I'm usually at the other end of the scale >> Rob Then I guess I'll feel right at home, although I'm sure she will wear a dress for the banquet. See You There Jim Nice WA State p.s. God, I hope I can fly instead of drive. Please make the weather co-operate. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005427699@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:11:50.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
AMEN ON THE WEATHER, JIM. BILL BRUTON TACOMA, WA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: FW: Covers
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Thanks to all who answered (and miraculously understood my vague) questions! -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Bell [mailto:rv4bell(at)door.net] Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:03 PM Subject: Covers Scott, There are none. You will have to make your own. Best regards, Bruce Bell Laying up landing gear intersection fairings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005428163@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:26:59.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Wire Lacing
Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? John Danielson Fuselage, Instrument panel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
dumb question#6,593...when IS Van's homecoming? JNice51355(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > In a message dated 08/30/2000 1:00:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > RV8OR(at)overvne.demon.co.uk writes: > > << she says that I'm usually at > the other end of the scale >> > Rob > Then I guess I'll feel right at home, although I'm sure she will wear a dress > for the banquet. > See You There > Jim Nice > WA State > p.s. God, I hope I can fly instead of drive. Please make the weather > co-operate. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: C-Frame Table
Don R Jordan wrote: > > > After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this time, > BUT > I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the width of > the table. > Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com Don, you are indeed a brave (foolhardy?) man to post an opinion on this list! :-) I too started out by using blocks like you describe and they work. BUT........the table is sooooooo much more convenient. The problem I had with the blocks was that, as you mentioned, you have to move them, and I found the edge of the sheet I was dimpling would often catch on a block that wasn't in exactly the right position. Perhaps some of the new builders haven't seen my 1997 model dimpling table, so here tis: http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/odd-ends.html#dimpling table Keep in mind that you don't have to use blocks, a table, or anything. But the table sure does make a very monotonous (and potentially damaging) process a lot easier. Of course, any planes not built with a dimpling table are subject to falling out of the sky just as those that aren't totally primed.... ;-) Sam Buchanan (dimpling table disassembled long ago) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: IO-360
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Van's sell these brand new for only a few thousand more - I believe around 29K for the IO-360-A1A 200HP. Would there be any advantage at all in getting an 'older' engine for just 6K that is 'zeroed'??? I'm asking this since I'm also looking for an IO-360. I don't mind paying the 29K for a new engine from Van's but like to see if there are any reasons why I shouldn't. For instance: Are there more accessories included from Aero Sport than if I buy a new engine? If so, how much (roughly) does these items add up to if I went with all new equipment. Are RV-8 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch Sent: August 30, 2000 8:24 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-360 Aero Sport Power quoted me just over $23K earlier this year for that exact engine. Their price included lots of new hardware (cylinders, crankshaft, etc.) as well Lightspeed electronic ignition and all the usual accessories. I wound up getting an IO-360-A1B6 from them instead. Bart was great to deal with and spent some time on the phone with me on several occasions, both before and after I placed my deposit, answering questions and helping me to focus my requirements. I've heard that his engines are real works of art and I can't wait to see mine. It's supposed to be here in the next few weeks. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved) cockpit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005428785@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:47:44.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
SMART REPLY #675442 THIS WEEKEND, JOLLY SAT, SUN, MON AT AURORA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: C-Frame Table
Date: Aug 30, 2000
That's what I did. I ripped four 2' long 4x4's down to the same height as the dimple in the c-frame. I put a strip of duct tape on them for scratch protection too. Very versatile. Time: 12.3 minutes. Cost: 37 cents. Larry Bowen RV-8 fuse, seat bulkheads. Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com Web: http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > > > After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this time, > BUT I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the width of > the table. Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Wire Lacing
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Dental floss is not sticky enough, it will come untied. The nylon lace that is used to tie wires is coated with a semi-sticky wax that helps hold the knot and keeps it from slipping up or down the wire bundle. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM [mailto:JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:06 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Wire Lacing Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? John Danielson Fuselage, Instrument panel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Steve Gregory <sgregory(at)best.com>
Subject: Golden West EAA Regional Fly-In 2000
Hi Listers! Don't forget the Golden West EAA Regional Fly-In 2000 this September 8, 9 and 10th (week and a half away) at Sacramento Executive Airport just south of Sacramento, CA. Aircraft Spruce is sponsoring an air race from Corona, CA to overhead Franklin Field, CA (12 miles south of Sacramento Exec). Pilots will continue on and land at Sac Exec. This race is on Friday, September 8th. (All you SoCal RV'ers can show the rest of us how fast you are!) It's going to be a great fly-in with display aircraft, forums, exhibitors, etc. I look forward to seeing you there. If you have any questions, please check the website at www.gwfly-in.org or call me at the phone number below. Blue Skies.... Steve Gregory Director, Golden West Aviation Association, Inc. RV8qb (N884SG reserved) ERA Golden Hills Brokers 3223 Crow Canyon Rd #110 San Ramon, CA 94583 Direct 925/543-2595 FAX 925/275-3531 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Jeens" <kenjeens(at)home.com>
Subject: Tool Question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. Ken Jeens RV6a tail kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: IO-360
Hi Are, I went through a similar thinking process about six months ago before ordering my engine from Bart. The reasons I eventually went with an Aero Sport engine vs. new from Van's were (in no particular order): 1) Lightspeed ignition, which I preferred to Lasar. Bart explained that he could get a little more aggressive with the timing on the Lightspeed, which would equate to more HP. Others may have different priorities. 2) Airflow Performance fuel injection. I was sold on it awhile ago. I hope my experience will justify my anticipation. 3) Bart runs the engines in a test cell before shipping. This will slightly lessen the usual new engine dilemma of needing to be run at full power just when you don't want to do so (first flight of a new airplane). 4) Bart's reputation for high quality engines and great customer service. 5) The difference in price between Bart's engine and the new one from Van's could be applied to other things -- like avionics, for example. Just my five cents, but that's why I went with Bart. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved) cockpit stuff Are Barstad wrote: > > Van's sell these brand new for only a few thousand more - I believe around > 29K for the IO-360-A1A 200HP. Would there be any advantage at all in getting > an 'older' engine for just 6K that is 'zeroed'??? > > I'm asking this since I'm also looking for an IO-360. I don't mind paying > the 29K for a new engine from Van's but like to see if there are any reasons > why I shouldn't. For instance: Are there more accessories included from Aero > Sport than if I buy a new engine? If so, how much (roughly) does these items > add up to if I went with all new equipment. > > Are > RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: IO-360
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Steve, I paid $19,000 for our IO-360 to include starter, magneto and fuel injector servo. It came zero time with a five hour break-in and a factory style warranty. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: IO-360 >Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 22:08:12 -0700 > > >I had a friend ask me how much a IO-360 A1A would go for. >Zero time since overhauled. >Estimates? I'm not trying to get an exact price, just ballpark. > >Steve Hurlbut >shurlbut(at)island.net >RV-6 emp >C-FSND >Comox, BC, Canada > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)swcp.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Lacing
> >Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? > >John Danielson >Fuselage, Instrument panel I'll defer that question to Bob or others, but if you want something a little more reliable, look for Gudebrod lacing cord at electronics distributors or surplus stores. A quick web search came up with several hits with this one the most promising: http://www.versatileindustrial.com/gudebrod.html A little more expensive than dental floss, but 500 yards sure goes a long way! By the way, there are definite techniques to tying the knot. You basically make two loops around the bundle and trap the first part of the knot under the outer loop. I'm not sure I can explain it - I'll see if I can find a reference, though, and reply direct if I come up with a drawing or instructions. Regards, Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
thanks...somehow I thought it was next week....i'll be there for sure...I'm the guy/nut that has the ercoupe in the yard on final (left) at the west end of the field.. aurora....jolly Bbrut55(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > SMART REPLY #675442 THIS WEEKEND, JOLLY SAT, SUN, MON AT AURORA > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sylvain Duford" <sylvain(at)duford.com>
Subject: RV-8 Kit for sale
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Hello listers, After 3.5 years in the Seattle area, I am moving back to Ottawa Canada. I have decided to try and sell my kit rather risk moving it that far. Plus I wont have the space to work on it for the next year or so. I will probably start over with a Quick-Build then. It is RV-8 Kit # 80047: a.. the empennage is complete, b.. the wings are ready to close, c.. fuel tanks done by Don London, d.. above are all epoxy primed inside and out, e.. brand new fuselage kit, still in the crate. f.. Van's wiring kit g.. 3 DuckWorks lights (two landing, one taxi) (don't ask) h.. AOA sensor mounted in left wing (no display) i.. Was inspected twice by Jon Ammeter j.. Will sell Air Compressor if you want it. Located in Bellevue, WA Make me an offer. Sylvain Duford 425.260.1132 "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler...", Albert Einstein ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
The Sears torque wrench that I figure I'll use the most is the small one rated in inch lbs. Later on for some of the engine, wing mounting etc. you'll probably need the larger one (ft. lbs). I find I use both size frequently on other things besides just the plane stuff. Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res) Plainfield, IL http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Jeens" <kenjeens(at)home.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Tool Question > > I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, > what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? > The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. > > Ken Jeens > RV6a > tail kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Tool Question
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
I would get one that reads inch pounds and foot pounds. Shelby Smith shelbysmith(at)mac.com ---------- >From: "Ken Jeens" <kenjeens(at)home.com> >To: "RV List" >Subject: RV-List: Tool Question >Date: Wed, Aug 30, 2000, 7:39 PM > > > I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, > what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? > The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. > > Ken Jeens > RV6a > tail kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
I have 2 torque wrenches a big one, never used on the rv kit and a small wrench with a range of 5 to 50 inch-lbs. This one I use all the time. I like the small one because the AN3 torque is midrange of the wrench. It is a Matco and I am very happy with it. I have seen some other smaller wrenches where the lower torque was 20 to 24 inch-lbs. When you read the calibration sheets you'll find that the lower limit can be a crap shoot and percent deviation increases as repeatability decreases. I recently (Oshkosh) acquired a torque screwdriver. I did this because of the tank attach bolts not being accessable with a torque wrench. The torque screwdriver has a range from 6-36 inch-lbs. Hope this helps Ken Jeens wrote: > > > I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, > what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? > The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. > > Ken Jeens > RV6a > tail kit > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: X-Country
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Bruce, if you just could tell us your AP type, engine and prop we could compare your fine data with others. Thanks. -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Meacham <bruceme(at)seanet.com> Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:57 AM Subject: RV-List: X-Country > >Though you guys might like to hear that my X-Country went suprisingly >uneventful. PAE to LWM 2140nm. Routing was 49th parallel roughly great >circle. Except for some them ant hills in Idaho and Montana and some weekend >warrriors in Michigan that wanted an ohio size state over the lakes to do >drills. > >Through Idaho/Montana, I just flew direct from Sand Point to Glaciar then >roughly followed route 2 to Cut Banks, all at 11,500'. There were only about 2 >min that I didn't have a suitable land-out site. (Thanks for the routing >Johny). > >I stopped overnight in Kenmare, ND. Exceptinally nice folks, lent me their >truck! Great place to stop. > >The remainder of the flight I flew at 9,500' indicated (11,000' density) and >got 7gph at 160kts true with a honking 10-20kt tailwind, hooyah! All my legs >where around 400nm and typically took 2.5hrs. I never landed with less than an >hour of gas remaining from my 24.2 usable gallon tank, typically I had 8.2 >usable gallon's left. Flow meter was very nice! Between the GPS and the flow >meter, their's a whole new method for safely planning and fly x-countries. You >can be a lot more flexable on routing and absolutely solid on go/no-go >decisions. I'll write a web-page and post it. > >I flew the first leg at 11,500' (14k density) for terrain clearance. I saw 6.2 >gph and 160kts true (and a 25kt tailwind)! But after a couple hours I could >start feeling the classic symptomps of hypoxia (numb finger tips and a lite >headed fealing) and flew the remaining legs at 9,500' (11k dens Alt). > >Johny, I flew within about 30nm of Roseau, I wanted to stop, but I had a mild >case of get-there-itis and you said you probably wouldn't be there. Sorry, >let's meet at OSH next year! > >Bruce Meacham >www.seanet.com/~bruceme/ShotGun.htm >bruceme(at)seanet.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Torque screw driver
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
How much and who make that one? -- Shelby Smith shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP N95EB - reserved ---------- >From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Question >Date: Wed, Aug 30, 2000, 9:42 PM > > I recently (Oshkosh) acquired a torque screwdriver. I did this because > of the tank attach bolts not being accessable with a torque wrench. > > The torque screwdriver has a range from 6-36 inch-lbs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Control Tube Clearance
Date: Aug 30, 2000
> >I am hanging the ailerons and flaps on my RV-6A. With the flap 1/4" from the >aileron, the aileron control rod makes contact with the top of the flap skin >(where it makes the curve near the rear wing spar) when the aileron is in the >full down deflection. It seems that I would have to trim about 1/4" to 1/2" >off the edge of the flap skin at the top curl to get proper clearance. Any >suggestions or comments would be appreciated. By the way, I double checked >and the aileron is at exactly 55 3/4" from the root rib as called out in the >plans. >Thanks, >Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi Trim as necessary. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Torque wrench? Ok, more tools are always good. I have 3/8 and 1/2 inch. I use the 3/8 most by far. Get the click type, not the swinging needle.... You won't need it in RV building until you are very well along. But, it will be needed when you build that race car. :-) Bill -4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Jeens" <kenjeens(at)home.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Tool Question > > I am slowly gathering tools as funds permit. Given the limited resources, > what size of torque wrench would I find MOST usefull? > The local Home Depot has several to choose from, as does Sears. > > Ken Jeens > RV6a > tail kit > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005435851@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:44:29.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Subject: oil pressure fittings
Would like to double check a fews details with those wiser and more experienced; about to install the fitting on the back of my 0-320 DIA for the oil pressure sensor line. The lycoming manual just kinda points to the upper right side near the engine mount. There are two 1/8" pipe ports on the rear of the engine one pointing straight back and one pointing out to the right, inline with the cylinders. There is also a port in front of the engine mount pointing up. I would like to use the one pointing straight back, just under the vac. pump -- is this the one? Also will follow Van's advise on restrictor fittings -- tapp the inside and screw in a drilled bolt with the head cut off. Does it matter which side of the fitting, pipe or flared side to tapp? Also should I use something like loctite to secure it? Thanks, Warren Moore RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron Control Tube Clearance
ENewton57(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > I am hanging the ailerons and flaps on my RV-6A. With the flap 1/4" from the > aileron, the aileron control rod makes contact with the top of the flap skin > (where it makes the curve near the rear wing spar) when the aileron is in the > full down deflection. It seems that I would have to trim about 1/4" to 1/2" > off the edge of the flap skin at the top curl to get proper clearance. Any > suggestions or comments would be appreciated. By the way, I double checked > and the aileron is at exactly 55 3/4" from the root rib as called out in the > plans. > Thanks, > Eric Newton - Long Beach, Mississippi > All systems normal. We just trimed my hangar mates for the exact same reason. Mine was also the same way. -- Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado RV-6A N99PZ Flying Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A with H2AD Pistons Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005437441@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 21:53:50.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Aileron Control Tube Clearance
In a message dated 8/30/00 6:55:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ENewton57(at)AOL.COM writes: << It seems that I would have to trim about 1/4" to 1/2" off the edge of the flap skin at the top curl to get proper clearance. >> I had to do the same thing and from previous posts on this list I understand this to be pretty standard. Can't answer why the plans don't show this. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, working on canopy installation ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005437394@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 21:51:57.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Tool Question
of all the tools i have, and i have accumulated a bunch, the pneumatic squeezer is by far the best luxury tool i own. fortunately i found out early that this gem is a god send for squeezing those 1/8 inch rivets. drilling out rivets can be one of the most frustrating things for a rookie builder (along with being broke). so member dis, when you get so hacked off about the poor rivet u set by hand or the one that got lop sided and u gota drill out and hole is too big and on and on, MEMBER DA PNEUMATIC!!! btw, u can set poor rivets with a puematic if your not paying attention or the rivet is too long. good luck, bob in hot -111 degrees today- in ark doing wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2000
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Tool Question
Snip I have 3/8 and 1/2 inch. I use the 3/8 most by far. snip The drive size isn't important (unless you only have one set of sockets), it's the torque and range that is. snip You won't need it in RV building until you are very well along. But, it will be needed when you build that race car. :-) Bill -4 snip Now Bill... you are torquing your AN3 bolts on the wing spar, aren't you???? ;-) Since AN3's are torqued at, now let's see...where is that 43.13, 20-25 in lbs and the AN4 is 50-70 in lbs, I like to use a screwdriver type, 1/4 drive, torque wrench that has a range of 25-125 in lbs. Mine happens to be a snap-on, but the craftsman is good too. Remember to add the drag of the nyloc to the torque limit. If it takes 5 in lbs to turn the nut on the bolt before its up against the stop, add 5 to the 20-25 for a real reading of 25-30. Be sure to use inspectors paint after torquing to remind yourself which have been torqued and which have not. Hope to see you all up at Homecoming (weather permitting). Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 72 hrs O-360, Sensenich (83") SoCal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Date: Aug 31, 2000
True, you CAN set poor rivets with the pneumatic. BUT, my girlfriend (who wouldn't know a rivet gun from a water gun) hasn't managed to squeeze a bad one yet and she riveted quite a bit or my left elevator. She did get an entire 20 seconds of instruction before she said 'just let me do it, I've been watching'. I was nervous....for no reason. Pneumatic all the way....wouldn't build without it. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 12:29 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Question > > of all the tools i have, and i have accumulated a bunch, the pneumatic > squeezer is by far the best luxury tool i own. fortunately i found out early > that this gem is a god send for squeezing those 1/8 inch rivets. drilling out > rivets can be one of the most frustrating things for a rookie builder (along > with being broke). so member dis, when you get so hacked off about the poor > rivet u set by hand or the one that got lop sided and u gota drill out and > hole is too big and on and on, MEMBER DA PNEUMATIC!!! > btw, u can set poor rivets with a puematic if your not paying attention or > the rivet is too long. good luck, bob in hot -111 degrees today- in ark doing > wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Griffin" <skydog-8(at)home.com>
Subject: drill bit question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
I, while not the worlds athority, have been a model maker machinist for over twenty years. In my tool box I have four sets of drills. Numbers, Letters, Fractions, and Metric (in .1mm increments). There are drills in those indexes that have never seen the light of day in all those years. Right off the bat do yourself two favors. #1) Don't buy drills from Harbor Freight (you might be able to find worse quality if you really put some effort into it). #2) Don't waste your money on a 119 piece set, of which probably 90 of them will go un-touched (put your extra money in a set of Number size reamers if you can't find anywhere else to spend it). Now as for titanium-nitride coated stuff, it's gold, it's gorgeous, it's expensive..........leave it alone. High-Speed steel is the bare minimum that you should settle for. Cobalt is better, and will truely last longer (if you do your part and don't dwell in the work piece). As others have mentioned, buy yourself a 12" #30, a 12" #40, a hand full of jobber length # 30's, a hand full of jobber length # 40's, some #12's, #19's, 3/16ths, 1/4, 3/8ths, some unibits, and then see what else you may need as you go along. Spend your money wisely, and then buy an Andair Fuel Valve later on............................ Randy Griffin Griff N925RG (reserved) RV-8 Turtle Build Fuse Vancouver, Wa. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 7:03 PM Subject: RV-List: drill bit question i gota few extra $ this month and already own a cheap $30 set of drills (1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths) drill bits. i am wanting to order more, i.e. by number and possibly letter sizes. three questions: 1. is the high dollar bits that are cobalt and meet nas 907 type j specs really worth it? (avery) 2. are the wire size-letter bits used that much? i don't even see letter sizes offered in avery cat. i am seeing a variety of sets in all the other tool cats. and not sure if i am throwing money away. i even found a 119 piece set at harbor (all 3 sets of sizes) for $40. and $60 for the titanium coated. 3. is the titanium worth it? thanx, guys, bob in ark doin wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005438848@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 23:03:42.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: another band saw question
simply, has anyone got that $179 harbor freight metal bands, if so, tell me about it. thanx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424790@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:45:16.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-4 question
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Scott, The battery does not get covered unless you invent something yourself. The stick covers you see so many people using are purchased from George & Becky Orndorff. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 2.5 hours & still grinning like a goofball > ** Original Subject: RV-List: RV-4 question > ** Original Sender: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:51:27 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Where in the plans are the drawings for the cover(s) that cover the battery > compartment and stick guts on the RV-4? I hope that's clear... > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM.Thu,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005439240@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 23:26:31.-0700(at)matronics.com
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: oil pressure fittings
In a message dated 8/30/00 9:05:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time, MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM writes: << I would like to use the one pointing straight back, just under the vac. pump -- is this the one?>> Yes. << Also will follow Van's advise on restrictor fittings -- tap the inside and screw in a drilled bolt/screw with the head cut off. Does it matter which side of the fitting, pipe or flared side to tap?>> I would recommend tapping from the flare end if for no other reason than that's how I did it. Drill the plug out to .040" << Also should I use something like Loctite to secure it? >> Yes. 242 or 471 should both work fine. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424449@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:35:14.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Thanks Karl. Its really good to be in the air with that thing. Clay > ** Original Subject: RE: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > ** Original Sender: "Karl Schilling" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 06:40:52 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > Congrats Clay! Karl > > > -----Original Message----- > > Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours > > Indiana > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Griffin" <skydog-8(at)home.com>
Subject: Wire Lacing
Date: Aug 30, 2000
You probably need to ask Don MacNamara this question! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:06 PM Subject: RV-List: Wire Lacing Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? John Danielson Fuselage, Instrument panel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Wed,
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0005424486@mail-2.lbay.net>; Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:36:02.-0700(at)matronics.com
Subject: N9X takes flight!
Date: Aug 30, 2000
Great Bob. I should be around on Saturday morning. Clay > ** Original Subject: RE: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > ** Original Sender: "Bob Japundza" > ** Original Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 07:05:22 -0700 > ** Original Message follows... > > > CONGRATULATIONS! Great feeling, isn't it? I will come down this week > sometime. Its been too foggy in the mornings to fly to work and have > somebody pick me up at Metro, maybe this weekend I'll come by. > > Thanks! > > Bob Japundza > RealMed Corporation > www.realmed.com > > > -----Original Message-----From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue [mailto:clayfly(at)libertybay.com.Tue] > Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 4:43 PM > To: RV List > Subject: RV-List: N9X takes flight! > > > > Fellow Listers, > A great day! At dawn this morning, I lined RV-4 N9X up on runway 21 at > Franklin Flying > Field and pored the coals to'er. Man can she climb! And ohh, what a > view! And wow, > does the ground scoot along fast below! > > I followed my test plan, kept her within gliding distance of the field, > and walked her through > the paces. I used a tiny tape recorder to dictate my gripe list, > performance info and engine > temperatures/pressure. This worked well --- much better than trying to > record them on a > knee board. Gripe list consisted of a heavy right wing. When I landed > and removed the > cowling I had some things that definitely needed to be tended to. > > The landing was fun. Those gear legs have lots of spring in them. We > went bouncy, bouncy > bouncy on the turf strip. Learning to land this thing is going to be > fun --- it'll take some > finesse I think. > > I want to do it again! Soon! Like right now! OK, tomorrow at dawn > I'll be climbing up > through the morning haze and we'll do it all over again. > > Thanks to all who have helped me prepare for this day. > > Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 1.6 hours > Indiana > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Sound deadening material
I want to build a sort of box around my compressor to reduce the noise to a more tolerable level (it is in the shop.) Anybody who has done the same have good results with a material other than plywood? Foam insulation? Drywall? Accoustical tile? Jeff Point -6 wings, on hold for major shop upgrade Milwaukee, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Subject: Re: Oil Canning
Date: Aug 30, 2000
08/30/2000 11:12:41 AM the reply was...... "Jim Bower" (at)matronics.com on 08/29/2000 01:10:12 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Canning I found a method of preventing oilcanning, and employed it on my left elevator. (My right elevator has a small amount of oilcanning.) As luck would have it, the left elevator oilcans more than the right! And after all that work, too. Oh well. Thing is, I posted oilcanning questions to the list and the consensus is (1): most metal airplanes do it...(2): direct sunlight and/or cold will change the oilcanning properties of the metal... (3): You won't hear it when you're flying, so go ahead and build the next part and forget it. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ >From: "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV List" >Subject: RV-List: Oil Canning >Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 23:24:28 -0400 > > >Hey guys, > >I just closed up my wing and I have an oil can in one section on the >bottom. I can reach it through an access panel and was considering >riveting in a stiffener. If I go this route, should the stiffener be >parallel to the ribs or perpendicular? > >Vince Welch >RV-8A Wings >Roaming Shores, Ohio > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. "Jim Bower" (at)matronics.com on 08/29/2000 01:10:12 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Canning I found a method of preventing oilcanning, and employed it on my left elevator. (My right elevator has a small amount of oilcanning.) As luck would have it, the left elevator oilcans more than the right! And after all that work, too. Oh well. Thing is, I posted oilcanning questions to the list and the consensus is (1): most metal airplanes do it...(2): direct sunlight and/or cold will change the oilcanning properties of the metal... (3): You won't hear it when you're flying, so go ahead and build the next part and forget it. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ >From: "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV List" >Subject: RV-List: Oil Canning >Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 23:24:28 -0400 > > >Hey guys, > >I just closed up my wing and I have an oil can in one section on the >bottom. I can reach it through an access panel and was considering >riveting in a stiffener. If I go this route, should the stiffener be >parallel to the ribs or perpendicular? > >Vince Welch >RV-8A Wings >Roaming Shores, Ohio > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Subject: Wire Lacing
Date: Aug 31, 2000
08/31/2000 09:15:26 AM Warren Gretz has lacing cord. He is in the yeller pages & the archives. "Van Artsdalen, Scott" (at)matronics.com on 08/30/2000 08:03:19 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RE: RV-List: Wire Lacing Dental floss is not sticky enough, it will come untied. The nylon lace that is used to tie wires is coated with a semi-sticky wax that helps hold the knot and keeps it from slipping up or down the wire bundle. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM [mailto:JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM] Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:06 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Wire Lacing Can you use Dental Floss for wire lacing? John Danielson Fuselage, Instrument panel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sound deadening material
--- Jeff Point wrote: > > I want to build a sort of box around my compressor to reduce the > noise > to a more tolerable level (it is in the shop.) Anybody who has done > the > same have good results with a material other than plywood? Foam > insulation? Drywall? Accoustical tile? When I worked at Data General they had an anechoic chamber for testing computer equipment. I noticed then that the material they used (apart from the actual material) was cut and formed very similarly to an "egg crate" foam pad you can buy for beds. I am using some of that in my compressor shed and at least over the bare siding interior it has cut down the noise tremendously! Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Lacing
>I'll defer that question to Bob or others, but if you want something a >little more reliable, look for Gudebrod lacing cord at electronics >distributors or surplus stores. A quick web search came up with several >hits with this one the most promising: >http://www.versatileindustrial.com/gudebrod.html A little more expensive >than dental floss, but 500 yards sure goes a long way! > >By the way, there are definite techniques to tying the knot. You basically >make two loops around the bundle and trap the first part of the knot under >the outer loop. I'm not sure I can explain it - I'll see if I can find a >reference, though, and reply direct if I come up with a drawing or >instructions. The knot you're thinking of is called a clove hitch. See this done at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cablelace/cloveh_2.gif http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cablelace/cloveh_1.jpg Tugging the ends will snug the lace around the bundle of wires. Put an ordinary square knot on top to secure the tie. I'll look into sources for smaller put-ups of cable lace. The standard 500 yards spool is enough to do dozens of airplanes. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com>
Subject: New RV Travel Pages lists 'hospitality overnight' locations
for the travelling RVator.
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Hi listers, I've started compiling an online list of those individuals who are willing to put up travelling RVators for the night. This is called a 'hospitality overnight' and is (in my opinion) one of the best ways around to make RV friends. I think this was done in the past (but in a private, membership-type only way). I'm going to try it in a public forum for several reasons. Some of them include... * it showcases just how incredibly nice RV folks can be * it saves us money * it gives us a reason to travel to places we might not otherwise visit * it promotes RVation on a global scale * it might convince a person to build a RV instead of something else (you won't find this on the Lancair site ) * it allows us to take the road less traveled If you would like to offer up a spare bedroom, I'd encourage you to do so. I always find that staying with someone who is familiar with the local area so much more enjoyable than just stopping at a Motel 6 - these folks know the 'greasy spoons' and out of the way attractions that make a trip * A T R I P *. First off, I tried to think of those things that are important to know before contacting a person on the list, such as if it is a smoking household, or if they have pets you may be allergic too. Second, I made the list simple enough that you can hit print (in landscape mode) and have it come out nice enough so you can fold it up and keep a copy in your plane. Third, I included on the page a link to a newly created message board so you can publicly thank your host and maybe write a few words on the highlights of your trip. Finally, I included a world map with a little yellow star on the locations that have been submitted to date. When I look at the map, I find myself thinking, "There's one near where the shuttle's launch site and Disneyland! There's one near the Air & Space Museum! I've never been to Colorado, that might be fun!" John Ely was nice enough to begin working up a list of 'courtesy guidelines' - things to expect, things to offer, etc. I'll post it when he's done. I met John last week via email when he sent in his contact info for the RV White Pages and have talked with him a few times since then online using instant messaging (all while I'm stuck at the office). Enough talking. You can visit the 'RV Travel Pages' at www.vansairforce.net. I hope you find it helpful. Best regards, Doug Reeves Dallas, TX www.vansairforce.net PS. Yes you can stay with me, but you should know we have a 5yr old (another due in about a month and a half) and no spare bedroom. It's couch city. Consider yourself warned !!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Team Rocket gear fairing set
This post is aimed at builders with the old-style wheel pants and also those who are fiberglass-phobic. After 177 hrs of flying around with the old wheel pants and a set of metal intersection fairings, I upgraded to the pressure recovery wheel pants (now standard in finish kits) and a set of Team Rocket gear and intersection fairings. You can get the details here: http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/fairings.htm Sam Buchanan (RV-6 that is now 7+ mph faster! That brings new meaning to the "RV Grin") "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Sound deadening material
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Remember that a Compressor is a HEAT machine and needs adequate ventilation. Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 8:47 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Sound deadening material > > > --- Jeff Point wrote: > > > > I want to build a sort of box around my compressor to reduce the > > noise > > to a more tolerable level (it is in the shop.) Anybody who has done > > the > > same have good results with a material other than plywood? Foam > > insulation? Drywall? Accoustical tile? > > > When I worked at Data General they had an anechoic chamber for testing > computer equipment. I noticed then that the material they used (apart > from the actual material) was cut and formed very similarly to an "egg > crate" foam pad you can buy for beds. I am using some of that in my > compressor shed and at least over the bare siding interior it has cut > down the noise tremendously! > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Aug 31, 2000
What is the current thinking on gear leg stiffeners for a 6A? My plans (old) show wood molding glassed to the main and nose gear legs for stiffening. I wonder what current plans/instructions call for and what builders have been using. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A Hartzell 0.0 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: another band saw question
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Bob, I bought the 4 speed 14" bandsaw from Harbor Freight and I love it. That may not be what you are asking about but I bought it on sale about a year ago when it was around the price you give. It says it is a wood only saw but I bought a bi-metal blade for it and it works great. I highly recommend it. Mike Robertson RV-8A Awaiting a new Bendix Injector then all done except the grin. >From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: another band saw question >Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 01:47:06 EDT > > >simply, has anyone got that $179 harbor freight metal bands, if so, tell me >about it. thanx > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: multiple sendings
Date: Aug 31, 2000
MATT, My inbox is taking a big hit with so many double and triple mailings of the same message. Could you pretty please figure out whats going on and fix it. Please....Please.... Thanks much...very much, Mike Robertson RV-8A Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sound deadening material
--- Cy Galley wrote: > > Remember that a Compressor is a HEAT machine and needs adequate > ventilation. Yep. Got a grill vent in the back and another in the door, they line up with the fan belt pulley (which was cast as a fan). Pulls air in the rear vent, across the compressor head and out the door vent. Noise escapes also, but it doesn't echo and magnify the noise like it did before... Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage ==== Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com) Austin, TX, USA RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved) EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew, PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: multiple sendings
Date: Aug 31, 2000
me too! 83 messages this morning...some from yesterday or earlier...no big deal, just thought you would like to know ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
I used wood molding glassed to the main as called out in the plan. For the nose gear, the currentl plan did not call out for wood stiffener. I intend to test flight my airplane first then if needed to, I could glass wood stiffeners on the nose gear later. T.Nguyen RV-6A N747TN (reserved) >>> dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net 08/31/00 11:24AM >>> What is the current thinking on gear leg stiffeners for a 6A? My plans (old) show wood molding glassed to the main and nose gear legs for stiffening. I wonder what current plans/instructions call for and what builders have been using. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A Hartzell 0.0 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Hanson" <slhanson(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Aug 31, 2000
My 6A is one of the older kits and been flying since 1993. This year I replaced all gear with newer version for safety reasons. The old main gears had the wood stiffeners. I asked Vans about putting wood stiffeners on the new mains and they recommended try without first. I did and the gears shimmed like mad. I was about to add the wood stiffeners when Dick asked what pressure I had set the tires at. They were at 40 lbs. psi where 23 to 24 lbs. psi is recommended. I changed the tire pressure to 24 lbs. psi and the shimmy went away. During the summer the pressure decreased and people were questioning whether I was landing on flat tires or not. I pumped up the by eye to flat to the side wall. The next landing was marked by bad shimming again. I got a low pressure dial gauge and set the tires to 24 lbs. and landing are fine again. I think the pressure may have been around 30 lbs. psi. I am amazed at what a few pounds over will do. I am near the end of my tread wear and I am wondering if the quality of the tire plays a role in the shimmy I experience. Are some tires more balanced than other and causing the shimmy problem? Gary Hanson RV 6A N246RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:24 AM Subject: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > What is the current thinking on gear leg stiffeners for a 6A? My plans > (old) show wood molding glassed to the main and nose gear legs for > stiffening. I wonder what current plans/instructions call for and what > builders have been using. > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A Hartzell 0.0 hours > Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: RV-3 wing incidence/twist
Again, thanks for all replies so far! At this point I'm pretty much determined to change the right wing incidence by redrilling the rear spar attachment hole (in spar). I believe I've found the solution to maintain required strength there. (To recap: left wing twists down 1 degree from root to tip and right wing twists up 1 degree or more from root to tip.) But I'm no longer sure that setting the *midpoint* of the right wing to the specified 1 degrees positive incidence is the way to go. Please give the pro's and con's to this solution: Set outboard edge of the right wing to the specified 1 degree positive incidence. Then compensate for the resulting 0 degree incidence at the root by lowering the flap so that cord from wing leading edge to flap trailing edge is 1 degree positive. Will this work? I'll then trim out any remaining roll tendency by squeezing/bumping ailerons (adding trim tabs if needed). I feel I will only have this one shot at re-drilling the right rear spar attachment hole, so I want to get it as close to optimum as possible. Finn http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Hanson" <slhanson(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Aug 31, 2000
My 6A is one of the older kits and been flying since 1993. This year I replaced all gear with newer version for safety reasons. The old main gears had the wood stiffeners. I asked Vans about putting wood stiffeners on the new mains and they recommended try without first. I did and the gears shimmed like mad. I was about to add the wood stiffeners when Dick asked what pressure I had set the tires at. They were at 40 lbs. psi where 23 to 24 lbs. psi is recommended. I changed the tire pressure to 24 lbs. psi and the shimmy went away. During the summer the pressure decreased and people were questioning whether I was landing on flat tires or not. I pumped up the by eye to flat to the side wall. The next landing was marked by bad shimming again. I got a low pressure dial gauge and set the tires to 24 lbs. and landing are fine again. I think the pressure may have been around 30 lbs. psi. I am amazed at what a few pounds over will do. I am near the end of my tread wear and I am wondering if the quality of the tire plays a role in the shimmy I experience. Are some tires more balanced than other and causing the shimmy problem? Gary Hanson RV 6A N246RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:24 AM Subject: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > What is the current thinking on gear leg stiffeners for a 6A? My plans > (old) show wood molding glassed to the main and nose gear legs for > stiffening. I wonder what current plans/instructions call for and what > builders have been using. > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A Hartzell 0.0 hours > Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________ Thread-Topic: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners Thread-Index: AcATgBNS91fRrNdySFqlrXexoeRArwAAGiFQ
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Dennis, Use them if you have a shimmy problem, but its a matter of opinion. I have the stiffeners on my -6 and it makes some very stiff gear legs more stiff. Last April while flying with Mike Seager (who probably has the most landings in a RV than anyone else in the world) he said that he wouldn't put them on the -6 he's building. The reason is on the -6, the stiffeners help displace stress from the legs themselves to the engine mount. And that's not good; welds break, etc. I don't the stresses would be as great on the 6A since the structure is not also supporting the engine. When I do it over on my next one, I will leave them out unless I have to put them in after test flying. Bob Japundza RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 26 hours -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Nguyen [mailto:TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com] Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 1:25 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners I used wood molding glassed to the main as called out in the plan. For the nose gear, the currentl plan did not call out for wood stiffener. I intend to test flight my airplane first then if needed to, I could glass wood stiffeners on the nose gear later. T.Nguyen RV-6A N747TN (reserved) >>> dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net 08/31/00 11:24AM >>> What is the current thinking on gear leg stiffeners for a 6A? My plans (old) show wood molding glassed to the main and nose gear legs for stiffening. I wonder what current plans/instructions call for and what builders have been using. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A Hartzell 0.0 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Subject: Wing incidence/Adjusting Rear Spar Attachment
Date: Aug 30, 2000
08/30/2000 11:22:32 I got a pair of these collars at home. I can measure them tonight. Things that are really critical here are the edge distance left on the metal tabs. If they (the holes) are to close to the edge then replacement is the only cure. This (collar) fix would allow incidence tweaking(up and down at the rear spar attach point) but would do nothing for (forward or rearward) sweep of the wing--i.e. how far the rear spar was placed into the rear fuse. spar fork. BTW.... we placed two cessna collars on the single rear spar fork, one on each tang. We ground down the collar to be a .015 shy (thinner) then the fork piece. Inserted the collars with the hex heads out. By reassemblying the area and moving BOTH collars an equal ammount with a wrench we were to get the incidence angle to be spot on........ This is not a blanket fix.........your situation may be different. Some well respected A&I's and engineering types eyeballed the fininhed product and gave the thumbs up. There are no engineering studies, no PE drawings............no engineering analysis so be sure to review the fix in light of your problem at hand. "Don Eaves" (at)matronics.com on 08/29/2000 08:12:08 AM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing incidence/Adjusting Rear Spar Attachment Gentlemen may we move this back to the original problem Finn Lassen has. "The need to make an adjust at the rear spar after the holes have been drilled." "pocondon" gave a good answer. So did others, adjust flaps. re drill with a larger bolt, and the much used aileron trailing edge puffing & squeezing. Even with the holes drilled "on the money" you may still may have the need to make an adjustment to the spar. And - Some builder in the future might want to build his RV6/4 with the use of these Eccentric bolt collars thus allowing adjustment if needed. My questions for "pocondon" are: What Cessna did the Eccentric bolt collars from? 150/152 172 182? What size holes are needed to use the Eccentric bolt collars? Would Vans approve of this due to the size of hole needed? What have other builders done to solve this problem beyond those I gave above? -----Original Message----- posted by: pcondon(at)csc.com I've seen Cessna concentric bolt collars ( small round sleeves drilled off center with a thin hex head) used in all cessna aircraft and some experimental's. At the Cessna factory where 10 or 15 aircraft rolled off the assembly line daily, the rear spar holes sometimes needed tweaking. By simply rotating this concentric collar the rear alignment n the spar attach point's) came into the desired angle. The bolt that ran thru this collar was the pinch bolt or mount bolt. Elegant & simple. A set of these collars kept a grown man from crying when he mis-drilled his rear spar holes in his RV-6...........no it wasn't me...I got a RV-4......... -----Original Message----- posted by: Finn Lassen Both my wings were built with twists in them (inadvertently, I'm sure), the right wing more than the left. I set the incidence at both wings to 1 degree positive at their roots. That means that the incidence of the outer left wing edge is 0 degrees and 2 to 2.5 degrees (positive) at the outer right wing edge. I'd half forgotten this, and didn't notice it again until I reached higher speeds. At 185 mph I have to apply substantial right stick pressure to keep wings level, and also left rudder to keep ball centered. The question of course is: what to do about it? Finn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Bob Japundza wrote: > > > Dennis, > > Use them if you have a shimmy problem, but its a matter of opinion. I > have the stiffeners on my -6 and it makes some very stiff gear legs more > stiff. Last April while flying with Mike Seager (who probably has the > most landings in a RV than anyone else in the world) he said that he > wouldn't put them on the -6 he's building. The reason is on the -6, the > stiffeners help displace stress from the legs themselves to the engine > mount. And that's not good; welds break, etc. I don't the stresses > would be as great on the 6A since the structure is not also supporting > the engine. > > When I do it over on my next one, I will leave them out unless I have to > put them in after test flying. > > Bob Japundza > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 26 hours > I have flown my -6 both ways and it is much better with the stiffeners than without. Mike flies off of a very rough field and it may be that it would be better without them in that case. For those that fly off asphalt and seldom fly on rough dirt, grass strips the stiffeners are the only way to go. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Problem with Multiple Messages...
Hi Listers, I am aware of the problem with posts getting resent 2 or 3 times for some reason. I've been working on a solution for this problem for a while, but it seems that nothing has helped yet. I have some ideas why it occurs but I am as yet am unable to recreate the problem on demand and this makes troubleshooting a little more trying. I've been trying all sorts of things including upgrading and downgrading the Linux version, and rewriting some of the filter apps, but so far nothing has really helped. I will continue to debug this until I find a solution. Sorry for the extra messages... Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Concerned RvBuilder" <concernedrvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Problem's At Van's Because of move
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Ok, I understand that there is going to be problems when a major operation moves, but this is going on a little to long. Van's should have just shut down completly for a month or something. We were told that they would close for a few days and then reopen fully operational. Then it was posted that they would not be shipping orders for a week. Now people are being told that there orders may not go for a couple more weeks! I ordered on there website a next day air, called them up when It was 2 days late, got some rude guy on the phone that asked me what I wanted. I stated that I just want to check the status of my NDA, he just splurts out "It has not shipped and will not for a few weeks". Without looking up the order or nothing. What gives? Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Mid Eastern Regional Fly-In
Just a reminder that MERFI = Mid Eastern Regional Fly-In in Marion, Ohio is scheduled for Saturday and Sunday September 9th and 10th. Forums will be from 9 AM to 12:30 PM. It would be really nice to see a lot of RV's there again this year. I will arrive on Friday morning to help set up and I'll be camping on site for the duration. I'm looking forward to seeing some of you there. AL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Torque screw driver
Mine is by utica, bought it second hand for $25.- There were several, all gone within 30 min's after opening of the doors. Found the same one in several high-end catalogs going between $120 and $180. Gert Shelby Smith wrote: > > > > How much and who make that one? > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Question > >Date: Wed, Aug 30, 2000, 9:42 PM > > > > > I recently (Oshkosh) acquired a torque screwdriver. I did this because > > of the tank attach bolts not being accessable with a torque wrench. > > > > The torque screwdriver has a range from 6-36 inch-lbs. > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)swcp.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Lacing
> The knot you're thinking of is called a clove hitch. See > this done at: > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cablelace/cloveh_2.gif > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cablelace/cloveh_1.jpg Seems I didn't look hard enough. I scanned through your book and didn't see the subject mentioned - I guess I need to surf the site more to see what other goodies I'm ignorant of! > Tugging the ends will snug the lace around the bundle of wires. > Put an ordinary square knot on top to secure the tie. > > I'll look into sources for smaller put-ups of cable lace. > The standard 500 yards spool is enough to do dozens of > airplanes. Or many years of flossing teeth!! > Bob . . . Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Problem with Multiple Messages...
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Thanks Matt. >From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Problem with Multiple Messages... >Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 13:44:48 -0700 > > >Hi Listers, > >I am aware of the problem with posts getting resent 2 or 3 times for >some reason. I've been working on a solution for this problem for a >while, but it seems that nothing has helped yet. I have some ideas why >it occurs but I am as yet am unable to recreate the problem on demand and >this makes troubleshooting a little more trying. I've been trying all >sorts of things including upgrading and downgrading the Linux version, >and rewriting some of the filter apps, but so far nothing has really >helped. > >I will continue to debug this until I find a solution. > >Sorry for the extra messages... > >Matt Dralle >Email List Admin. > > >-- > > >Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > Great minds discuss ideas, > Average minds discuss events, > Small minds discuss people... > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton"<dburton(at)foxinternet.net>
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Homecoming weather
Well, the Northwet weather looks like it will be true to its name this weekend. This from the extended weather forecast: "Saturday and Sunday...showers. A chance of afternoon thunderstorms. Lows near 50. Highs 65 to 70". YUCK! As I'm coming down in my RV (that would be Recreational Vehicle unfortunately) I'm not too worried about the weather, but you guys flying in be careful. We have had poor weather all week, although with clearing most afternoons. I don't like the looks of the afternoon thunderstorms in the forecast though. I've been looking forward to see everybody, and their planes, but would rather wait till next year then have anyone push the weather trying to get there. I have a friend who is in my EAA chapter that has been flying his homebuilt (the same one BTW) to fly-ins for 43 years now. There will always be another fly-in and another year. That said, hope to see you all there. Dave Burton RV6A near Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: C-Frame Table
From: lm4(at)juno.com
Guy's, While your waiting for your kits have you considered that your going to have a lot of small parts finished and ready to prime in short order ? Have you built something or made arrarrangementsr priming small parts ? Have you found enough clear space on the walls to hang these parts for storage; in such a way that you can build the wings and still have them out of the way so your wife doesn't accidentally hit the HS with the rake ? Have you consulted with your local paint sales place and found out what you can use for primer; and then what you must use for paint if you use that primer ? How about the safety equipment and knowledge of safety practices you'll need for priming and painting. etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc. Larry Mac Donald Rochester N.Y. > > You guys are missing one key thing here . . . Bob is "Still waiting > on emp." > > When your waiting on your kit to arrive and have nothing to > assemble, you'll > do anything that makes you feel like you're making progress. Nailing > together a couple boards is not nearly as satisfying as creating a > "dimpling > workspace". Having said that, it's likely I'll be building a > "dimpling > workspace" while waiting for my empennage also! > > Todd Houg > Soon to order empennage > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Shook [mailto:billshook(at)mindspring.com] > Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 3:30 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: C-Frame Table > > > > > Don, I have to agree with you there. Building the C-frame table is > a great > idea if you're doing this in order to build the table. If on the > other hand > you want to build an airplane...take a couple scrap pieces of 2x4 > and a > couple scrap pieces of 1x4 and use them to hold the piece you are > working on > close to the proper level. It's really not hard, I've never worked > metal in > my life and I found it to be pretty easy....once I figured out how > to hold > the top skin with my chin, the bottom with my hand, the wood hammer > with my > other hand, the spring loaded set with my other hand, all while > talking to > the girlfriend, explaining the process to the always curious > neighbors and > keep from falling over all at the same time. Sounds fun eh? > Really, it's > not all that bad......really...uh, seriously. Honest. (kinda) > > Bill > -4 wings > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Don R Jordan" <dons6a(at)juno.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:01 PM > Subject: RV-List: C-Frame Table > > > > > > After 3 years of keeping my opinions to myself, I will get it this > time, > > BUT > > I think you are wasting your time. TApe a 2x to a 1x about the > width of > > the table. > > Build 4 or 6 of them & move em as needed. > > > > Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com > > ********************************************** > > > > > writes: > > > > > > > I am a little confused in my attempt to build a C-Frame table. > I've > > > seen a > > > number of descriptions on the internet regarding the height and > most > > > are 3" > > > plus a 1/4" top. This doesn't seem to be high enough for my > Avery > > > Tool. > > > With the extender plugged in it looks like it stands a little > less > > > than 4". > > > So I'm thinking that regular 2x4's with a 1/4" top should work > > > (carpet > > > possibly). Am I missing something? > > > > > > Bob Waalkes > > > RV-8 - Still waiting on emp. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric M. Strandjord" <emstrand(at)isd.net>
Subject: Re: Thanks to Andy Phillips....
Date: Aug 31, 2000
I was lucky enough to win an Andair Fuel selector valve at Van's banquet at Oshkosh. Thanks to Mr. Phillips for donating it. It is so nice, I hate to hide it inside the airplane!. It will not go to OFF without pulling a button, and detents very securely in "left" and "right". Eric. RV8 N586RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
In a message dated 08/30/2000 8:10:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rv6flier(at)yahoo.com writes: << There are 6 airplanes and 12 people in SoCAL that I know of that have the same comment. >> Gary Guess it's "much" worse for them "if" they were to drive. I guess I should consider myself lucky to be a relatively short distance from Van's, if I do end up driving down. So, why do I not feel lucky unless it is VFR. It doesn't need to be CAVU, but I'll take that too. I have planned for either. It is far more likely that folks coming from the south will be able to get into Aurora than it is for planes coming from the north. Many times when traveling in that direction, the only trouble to be had is a band between the Olympics and the Cascades running roughly on a line from Bremerton to Seattle, and Olympia and south are just fine. Well, I've got my fingers crossed. Guess all I can do is call for a briefing while at work, and check again when I get home. Today started out miserable, but appears to be O.K. at the moment. Maybe it'll be like that tomorrow. See Ya Jim Nice ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Problem with Multiple Messages...
Matt Dralle wrote: > > > Hi Listers, > > I am aware of the problem with posts getting resent 2 or 3 times for > some reason. I've been working on a solution for this problem for a > while, but it seems that nothing has helped yet. I have some ideas why > it occurs but I am as yet am unable to recreate the problem on demand and > this makes troubleshooting a little more trying. I've been trying all > sorts of things including upgrading and downgrading the Linux version, > and rewriting some of the filter apps, but so far nothing has really helped. > > I will continue to debug this until I find a solution. > > Sorry for the extra messages... > > Matt Dralle > Email List Admin. > Matt, I don't know if this helps, but I'm currently getting multiple messages from several non-Matronics lists, as well. The fickle finger might be pointing elsewhere this time. Is it possible that some other node on the net is causing the problem? Is anyone else getting multiple messages from non-Matronics lists? Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Extra angle, anyone...?
KEN I HAVE ABOUT TWO FEET OF 2X2X1.25 TOM Thomas M. Whelan Whelan Farms Airport Post Office Box 426 249 Hard Hill Road North Bethlehem, CT 06751 PH 203-266-5300 FAX 203-266-5140 e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com EAA Chapter 1097, President RV-8 IO-540 LYC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Problem's At Van's Because of move
YES YES Thomas M. Whelan Whelan Farms Airport Post Office Box 426 249 Hard Hill Road North Bethlehem, CT 06751 PH 203-266-5300 FAX 203-266-5140 e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com EAA Chapter 1097, President RV-8 IO-540 LYC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Sound deadening material
Date: Oct 01, 2000
> I want to build a sort of box around my compressor to reduce the noise Lots of sound goes thru openings but you need some for cooling etc so surround them with acoustic material - soft fluffy stuff that reduces sound reflections. Line the box with gold six inches thick or something less expensive such as concrete. The thing that reduces sound going thru it best is simply dense (high specific gravity) material. Sound easily penetrates fluffy stuff but not dense stuff. It easily bounces off dense stuff but doesn't easily penetrate it so you need both. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Date: Oct 01, 2000
Gert wrote: > I have 2 torque wrenches a big one I have a nice little quarter inch torque wrench made by Skyway Precision Tool Co. I got it army surplus long ago. Now, it is off and I can't locate the company. Any ideas where to get it fixed or get another quarter incher? The 3/8 jobs such as Craftsman seem pricey for something marginal for our use. hal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Galls wig/wag flasher . . .
I've had a number of questions about hooking up this popular wig/wag flasher and without having put my hands on one, I was unable to be very authoritative. I purchased one a few weeks ago and last night I took the time to scope out the critter. I was disappointed to find that the flasher ties the two lamp circuits together when it's de-energized . . . no big deal on police cars where headlights are normally operated together . . . but a bit of a challange when you'd like to have independent landing and taxi light circuits. None-the-less, I've deduced and published a wiring diagram at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html which folks are welcome to download as interest and/or need dictates. By the way, I have a very nearly new Galls flasher for sale at $10 less than I paid for it . . . first $45 offer via direct email to me takes it . . . post paid anywhere in US. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gaylen Lerohl" <lerohl@rea-alp.com>
Subject: Re: another band saw question
Date: Aug 31, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 00:47 Subject: RV-List: another band saw question > > simply, has anyone got that $179 harbor freight metal bands, if so, tell me > about it. thanx > I have had one for about 1-1/2 years. It vibrates and shakes but it does a reasonably good job of cutting. Mine arrived via motor freight, prepaid. It required about an hour to assemble. The Chinese saw blades are minimally adequate but you can get some good blade material in bulk and weld your own or have them custom welded by any number of tool supply houses. The ball bearing type blade guides are adjustable so you can get it to cut straight. While it is not a production grade saw, for the price it is a good value. Gaylen Lerohl ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Hi Hal Mine is made by tatco. It's a 1/4" one too. How do you know it is off? There are places to send the tool to, independant places, who will (re-)callibrate your torque wrenches. The least those places can do is give you a correction chart indicating set torque vs. real torque. kempthornes wrote: > > > Gert wrote: > > I have 2 torque wrenches a big one > > I have a nice little quarter inch torque wrench made by Skyway Precision > Tool Co. I got it army surplus long ago. Now, it is off and I can't locate > the company. > > Any ideas where to get it fixed or get another quarter incher? The 3/8 jobs > such as Craftsman seem pricey for something marginal for our use. > > hal > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Gear Leg Stiffener, to be or not to be.
Hi, Since I am having trouble with the Archives, I will ask the list. I am building an RV-6. Should I hold off till after flying to add wood gear leg stiffeners to my airplane if needed? Or is it a safe bet that I WILL need them? Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Oil Canning
i'd like info on how to prevent oil canning!!!!!! thanx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JhnstnIII(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye?
Listers--Asking for a friend who recently finished a beautiful purple and white RV-6A. His wing-root-mounted gascolator has leaked, leaving a blue streak down the underside of the wing. Plane is painted with Imron 6000. Has tried everything, including carb cleaner and lacquer thinner, but blue dye stain remains. Short of using rubbing compound, any ideas? Thanks. LeRoy Johnston , Ohio, empennage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Subject: Oil Canning
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Go to the archives and search for "oil canning" and you'll find many helpful hints. Hope this helps, Are RV-8 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM Sent: August 31, 2000 9:27 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Canning i'd like info on how to prevent oil canning!!!!!! thanx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Check with your local A&P as to where he gets his calibrated. There is usually a calibration shop at your local bigger airpoet as all torque wrenches , multimeters, compression tests, and the such must be alibrated annually. Mike Robertson RV-8A >From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Question >Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 17:45:54 -0700 > > >Gert wrote: > > I have 2 torque wrenches a big one > >I have a nice little quarter inch torque wrench made by Skyway Precision >Tool Co. I got it army surplus long ago. Now, it is off and I can't >locate >the company. > >Any ideas where to get it fixed or get another quarter incher? The 3/8 >jobs >such as Craftsman seem pricey for something marginal for our use. > >hal > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Aug 31, 2000
The RV'er's in our EAA chapter use a 5/8" solid fiberglass rod attached to the mains. Available at Atwoods country store that carries farm type hardware. Easier to install than the wood strips. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok fuse -6 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 3:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > Bob Japundza wrote: > > > > > > Dennis, > > > > Use them if you have a shimmy problem, but its a matter of opinion. I > > have the stiffeners on my -6 and it makes some very stiff gear legs more > > stiff. Last April while flying with Mike Seager (who probably has the > > most landings in a RV than anyone else in the world) he said that he > > wouldn't put them on the -6 he's building. The reason is on the -6, the > > stiffeners help displace stress from the legs themselves to the engine > > mount. And that's not good; welds break, etc. I don't the stresses > > would be as great on the 6A since the structure is not also supporting > > the engine. > > > > When I do it over on my next one, I will leave them out unless I have to > > put them in after test flying. > > > > Bob Japundza > > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 26 hours > > > > I have flown my -6 both ways and it is much better with the > stiffeners than without. Mike flies off of a very rough > field and it may be that it would be better without them in > that case. For those that fly off asphalt and seldom fly > on rough dirt, grass strips the stiffeners are the only way > to go. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Tool Question
Have you tried to re-calibrate it yourself? Hanging a 2 pound weight 12 inches from the turning point (with the handle level) should make it click at 24 inch-pounds, etc. Finn kempthornes wrote: > > Gert wrote: > > I have 2 torque wrenches a big one > > I have a nice little quarter inch torque wrench made by Skyway Precision > Tool Co. I got it army surplus long ago. Now, it is off and I can't locate > the company. > > Any ideas where to get it fixed or get another quarter incher? The 3/8 jobs > such as Craftsman seem pricey for something marginal for our use. > > hal > Why pay for something you could get for free? http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Cap Engraving
Listers I have received about 8 sets of caps this week and will be Engraving them tomorrow (Friday) I will be getting the badges I missed or never made their destnation done as well. If anyone else needs their caps engraved just send them on I will continue to do them as I receive them. Thanks Steve Davis The Panel Pilot ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Howard Williamson" <skybolt(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye?
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Use 100LL. Ran into a similar problem years ago with a red stain (80 octane). A little fuel on a rag removed it immediately. ----- Original Message ----- From: <JhnstnIII(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:34 PM Subject: RV-List: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye? > > Listers--Asking for a friend who recently finished a beautiful purple and > white RV-6A. His wing-root-mounted gascolator has leaked, leaving a blue > streak down the underside of the wing. Plane is painted with Imron 6000. > Has tried everything, including carb cleaner and lacquer thinner, but blue > dye stain remains. Short of using rubbing compound, any ideas? Thanks. > LeRoy Johnston , Ohio, empennage. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Subject: Re: Problem's At Van's Because of move
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Hmmmm. I placed an order on Sunday nightvia the web. Noted that I wanted it shipped express. Called Monday and spoke to Sharon I think. (She is **ALWAYS** nice, to me at least though I have never met her [hmmm, maybe BECAUSE I have never met her! ;-)]. Just so happened she was making sure that my order went out that day. Upon arrival at the airport on Tuesday, it was all there!! From Oregon to South Carolina .. no muss, no fuss. James RV6A-QB Panel and center console ----- Original Message ----- From: "Concerned RvBuilder" <concernedrvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 5:00 PM Subject: RV-List: Problem's At Van's Because of move > > Ok, I understand that there is going to be problems when a major operation > moves, but this is going on a little to long. Van's should have just shut > down completly for a month or something. We were told that they would close > for a few days and then reopen fully operational. Then it was posted that > they would not be shipping orders for a week. Now people are being told > that there orders may not go for a couple more weeks! I ordered on there > website a next day air, called them up when It was 2 days late, got some > rude guy on the phone that asked me what I wanted. I stated that I just > want to check the status of my NDA, he just splurts out "It has not shipped > and will not for a few weeks". Without looking up the order or nothing. > What gives? > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://profiles.msn.com. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com>
Subject: Re: The Lure of Flight
Austin, If I ever see you a a fly-in, I want to shake your hand and buy you a drink. Thank god there are still people like you left. Regards, Tom Velvick rv-6a starting on canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
From: meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . .
Hello Yall, I too bought a Gall's flasher. I felt it was too heavy and sold it at cost to a friend for his Suburban. I am still patiently waiting for the flasher unit from Bob Haan. Looking forward to a critique from someone going to the banquet. There is supposed to be a working example there. I will require something very soon. When ordering aircraft parts one must have patience. Things are many times backordered and take time to receive. Order the parts with a real person and write down their name for future reference. If not in hand when promised a call is in order, but I always give the benefit of doubt to the person on the other end. When I need something overnight it is almost always do to my poor planing. Some seem to blame their poor planing and lack of patience on Van's staff. George Meketa RV-8 IO360-A1A CS :control cables crimped today and measuring for fuel\ oil hoses. Painting interior and wiring soon. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PASSPAT(at)AOL.COM
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye?
Try a damp cloth using M E K be careful to let it linger then wax the area Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye?
Date: Aug 31, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: <PASSPAT(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 10:32 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye? > > Try a damp cloth using M E K be careful to let it linger then wax the area > > Pat My gas cap leaks when I do rolls or loops (and get a little negative), but the 100LL blue has gotten under my paint and I cannot get it out despite all kinds of various "helpful hints". I think it reacted with primer under my white paint because besides the blue I've got some rainbows too. Some day I'll just have to remove the tank and re-paint it. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: Re: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye?
In a message dated 8/31/00 7:49:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, JhnstnIII(at)AOL.COM writes: << a friend who recently finished a beautiful purple and white RV-6A. His wing-root-mounted gascolator has leaked, leaving a blue streak down the underside of the wing. Plane is painted with Imron 6000. Has tried everything, including carb cleaner and lacquer thinner, but blue dye stain remains. Short of using rubbing compound, any ideas? >> I've noticed that the dye fades in the sun, so maybe exposure to a broad spectrum sun lamp might work. Or he could fly it upside down for a few days in the bright sun. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Stiffener, to be or not to be.
From: "Ronald Vandervort" <ronvandervort(at)earthlink.net>
I have 360 hrs on RV-6 with 0-360A1A and no gear leg stiffeners. I get some shimmy if tire pressure is about 35 psi. No shimmy if pressure is maintained lower. I am using 31 psi. Ron Vandervort, Seattle area ---------- >From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Stiffener, to be or not to be. >Date: ThuSUNAug,05,3128,2000200028,6:25 PM > > > Hi, > Since I am having trouble with the Archives, I will ask the list. > > I am building an RV-6. Should I hold off till after flying to add wood > gear leg stiffeners to my airplane if needed? Or is it a safe bet that > I WILL need them? > > Thanks, > Glenn Gordon > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye?
Date: Aug 31, 2000
Disposition-Notification-To: "Randall Henderson" > Listers--Asking for a friend who recently finished a beautiful purple and > white RV-6A. His wing-root-mounted gascolator has leaked, leaving a blue > streak down the underside of the wing. Plane is painted with Imron 6000. Don't know about Imron, I have PPG Concept Clearcoat/Basecoat, but I had a similar problem. Kind of a long story which I won't go into but the upshot is a) It will fade over time (months) and possibly go away altogether, and b) in my case I thought it was under the clear but found that buffing with buffing compound took it off, so it must have been just the surface of the clear. PPG rep later told me "oh no don't get fuel on it until its cured at least 30 days." Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: - - - , 20-
>What is the current thinking on gear leg stiffeners for a 6A? My >plans (old) show wood molding glassed to the main and nose gear >legs for stiffening. I wonder what current plans/instructions call for >and what builders have been using. Dennis and others, I opted to not use the stiffeners on my gear legs. Two things prompted my thinking not to do it. One was the service bulletin pertaining to nose gear cracking. The other was a note somewhere in the archives pertaining to balancing wheel pants. I'll address both. I'm no expert; but, I got to thinking about those cracks in those nose gears. I decided that those stiffeners must be concentrating forces at the ends of the stiffeners. The gear legs were designed for forces to be spread over the length of the gear leg. Thus, the cracks started showing up because of those concentrations. Now, this may be pure bunk to the experts; but, it made sense to me. Since I was a long time pilot of a Grumman Cheetah, I also realized that much of the nose gear shimmy is how well one keeps air in the tires and how well one keeps the break out force at the fork mount in tolerances. I opted to use 23 pounds of breakout force for that. Somewhere in the archives, you'll find notes pertaining to balancing the main gear wheel pants. The wheel pants on Grummans are balanced. So, when I read that in the RV-list, it made sense. I opted to balance mine on the RV. To do that, I hung the wheel pants upside down at the axle point and added lead wheel weights up front until they balanced. I mixed up some epoxy and microballoons and laid the weights in that in the nose of each pant. When cured, they were balanced. My RV's gear legs have fiberglass fairings and no stiffeners. So far, I feel no shimmy in the mains. The nose gear does shimmy, from time to time, when I let the air get a little low. Shame on me for that. I'm currently trying to keep tires aired to about 26-30 pounds on the mains and 24-28 pounds on the nose. I'm landing on grass and hard surfaces. Thus far, I've got a little over 60 hours and lots of landings. I hope this helps. I'm going to archive this note for others later on. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Canning
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Bob, Go to John Bright's web site. He has an article on oil canning. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 fuse ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 8:26 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Canning > > i'd like info on how to prevent oil canning!!!!!! thanx > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . .
Date: Sep 01, 2000
If you still have it - I'll take it.... Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Problem's At Van's Because of move
I had a similar experience. I generally offer my business to Van's first, and go to other sources if Van's is unable to fill my needs. I called Van's earlier this week to inquire about their ability to ship. The person I talked with told me that they were 1-1/2 to 2 weeks behind in shipping and that anything I ordered would see a similar delay. I placed an order with Aircraft Spruce. Dean Pichon RV-4 fitting the cowl Arlington, MA "Concerned RvBuilder" on 08/31/2000 05:00:12 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com cc: (bcc: Dean Pichon/ADLittle) Subject: RV-List: Problem's At Van's Because of move Ok, I understand that there is going to be problems when a major operation moves, but this is going on a little to long. Van's should have just shut down completly for a month or something. We were told that they would close for a few days and then reopen fully operational. Then it was posted that they would not be shipping orders for a week. Now people are being told that there orders may not go for a couple more weeks! I ordered on there website a next day air, called them up when It was 2 days late, got some rude guy on the phone that asked me what I wanted. I stated that I just want to check the status of my NDA, he just splurts out "It has not shipped and will not for a few weeks". Without looking up the order or nothing. What gives? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: barrys <barrys(at)viconet.com>
Subject: use of the list
My 1st experiences with the Archive search, have not been good. I know that I have seen many comments on air compressors, in the past. I go to the Archive and type "compressor" and it says it finds about 800 matches. But when I look at them, most do not have the word "compressor" in them. What am I doing wrong? Barry starting RV9a tail ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: The Lure of Flight
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Austin, Thanks Again, Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A Niantic, CT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Compressors, was: use of the list
UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR --- barrys wrote: > > My 1st experiences with the Archive search, have not been good. > > I know that I have seen many comments on air compressors, in the > past. > > I go to the Archive and type "compressor" and it says it finds about > 800 > matches. > But when I look at them, most do not have the word "compressor" in > them. > > What am I doing wrong? Hard to say, Barry. The serarch results, when you select an article, should highlight the search word in a different color (mine's kinda purple). What is it you wanted to to know about compressors? Most of us have been down that road... Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Subject: Re: Use of the archive
Date: Sep 01, 2000
The archive is working fine, Barry. I did the 'compressor' search, found 778 messages and they have the word 'compressor' in a highlighted line in the messages. The word 'compressor' may NOT necessarily be in the SUBJECT line. Maybe that's the confusion? - Bill in Tucson -----Original Message----- From: barrys <barrys(at)viconet.com> Date: Friday, September 01, 2000 6:31 AM Subject: RV-List: use of the list > >My 1st experiences with the Archive search, have not been good. > >I know that I have seen many comments on air compressors, in the past. > >I go to the Archive and type "compressor" and it says it finds about 800 >matches. >But when I look at them, most do not have the word "compressor" in them. > >What am I doing wrong? > >Barry >starting RV9a tail ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Problem's At Van's Because of move
I agree, just be honest. If it's going to take 29 weeks let me know, don't tell me maybe 2 weeks. I also like how they offer next day air. I don't have a problem with UPS ground or the Postal service, my problem is when it sits on a desk for 3 weeks. Like next day air will make a difference then. Carey Mills, Calling Spruce ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Sep 01, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > The RV'er's in our EAA chapter use a 5/8" solid fiberglass rod attached to > the mains. Available at Atwoods country store that carries farm type > hardware. Easier to install than the wood strips. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > fuse -6 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 3:34 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > > > > > Bob Japundza wrote: > > > > > > > > > Dennis, > > > > > > Use them if you have a shimmy problem, but its a matter of opinion. I > > > have the stiffeners on my -6 and it makes some very stiff gear legs more > > > stiff. Last April while flying with Mike Seager (who probably has the > > > most landings in a RV than anyone else in the world) he said that he > > > wouldn't put them on the -6 he's building. The reason is on the -6, the > > > stiffeners help displace stress from the legs themselves to the engine > > > mount. And that's not good; welds break, etc. I don't the stresses > > > would be as great on the 6A since the structure is not also supporting > > > the engine. > > > > > > When I do it over on my next one, I will leave them out unless I have to > > > put them in after test flying. > > > > > > Bob Japundza > > > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 26 hours > > > > > > > I have flown my -6 both ways and it is much better with the > > stiffeners than without. Mike flies off of a very rough > > field and it may be that it would be better without them in > > that case. For those that fly off asphalt and seldom fly > > on rough dirt, grass strips the stiffeners are the only way > > to go. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Sep 01, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > The RV'er's in our EAA chapter use a 5/8" solid fiberglass rod attached to > the mains. Available at Atwoods country store that carries farm type > hardware. Easier to install than the wood strips. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > fuse -6 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 3:34 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > > > > > Bob Japundza wrote: > > > > > > > > > Dennis, > > > > > > Use them if you have a shimmy problem, but its a matter of opinion. I > > > have the stiffeners on my -6 and it makes some very stiff gear legs more > > > stiff. Last April while flying with Mike Seager (who probably has the > > > most landings in a RV than anyone else in the world) he said that he > > > wouldn't put them on the -6 he's building. The reason is on the -6, the > > > stiffeners help displace stress from the legs themselves to the engine > > > mount. And that's not good; welds break, etc. I don't the stresses > > > would be as great on the 6A since the structure is not also supporting > > > the engine. > > > > > > When I do it over on my next one, I will leave them out unless I have to > > > put them in after test flying. > > > > > > Bob Japundza > > > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 26 hours > > > > > > > I have flown my -6 both ways and it is much better with the > > stiffeners than without. Mike flies off of a very rough > > field and it may be that it would be better without them in > > that case. For those that fly off asphalt and seldom fly > > on rough dirt, grass strips the stiffeners are the only way > > to go. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Sep 01, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > The RV'er's in our EAA chapter use a 5/8" solid fiberglass rod attached to > the mains. Available at Atwoods country store that carries farm type > hardware. Easier to install than the wood strips. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > fuse -6 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 3:34 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > > > > > Bob Japundza wrote: > > > > > > > > > Dennis, > > > > > > Use them if you have a shimmy problem, but its a matter of opinion. I > > > have the stiffeners on my -6 and it makes some very stiff gear legs more > > > stiff. Last April while flying with Mike Seager (who probably has the > > > most landings in a RV than anyone else in the world) he said that he > > > wouldn't put them on the -6 he's building. The reason is on the -6, the > > > stiffeners help displace stress from the legs themselves to the engine > > > mount. And that's not good; welds break, etc. I don't the stresses > > > would be as great on the 6A since the structure is not also supporting > > > the engine. > > > > > > When I do it over on my next one, I will leave them out unless I have to > > > put them in after test flying. > > > > > > Bob Japundza > > > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 26 hours > > > > > > > I have flown my -6 both ways and it is much better with the > > stiffeners than without. Mike flies off of a very rough > > field and it may be that it would be better without them in > > that case. For those that fly off asphalt and seldom fly > > on rough dirt, grass strips the stiffeners are the only way > > to go. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Jerry: How do you attach the Fiberglas Rod? Hose clamps? Thanks Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Calvert <rv6bldr(at)home.com> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:45 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > The RV'er's in our EAA chapter use a 5/8" solid fiberglass rod attached to > the mains. Available at Atwoods country store that carries farm type > hardware. Easier to install than the wood strips. > > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok > fuse -6 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 3:34 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: 6A Gear Stiffeners > > > > > > Bob Japundza wrote: > > > > > > > > > Dennis, > > > > > > Use them if you have a shimmy problem, but its a matter of opinion. I > > > have the stiffeners on my -6 and it makes some very stiff gear legs more > > > stiff. Last April while flying with Mike Seager (who probably has the > > > most landings in a RV than anyone else in the world) he said that he > > > wouldn't put them on the -6 he's building. The reason is on the -6, the > > > stiffeners help displace stress from the legs themselves to the engine > > > mount. And that's not good; welds break, etc. I don't the stresses > > > would be as great on the 6A since the structure is not also supporting > > > the engine. > > > > > > When I do it over on my next one, I will leave them out unless I have to > > > put them in after test flying. > > > > > > Bob Japundza > > > RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 26 hours > > > > > > > I have flown my -6 both ways and it is much better with the > > stiffeners than without. Mike flies off of a very rough > > field and it may be that it would be better without them in > > that case. For those that fly off asphalt and seldom fly > > on rough dirt, grass strips the stiffeners are the only way > > to go. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Blanton" <stanb(at)door.net>
Subject: Navaid & VOR
Date: Sep 16, 2000
RV-List, Could some one who has hooked up a Navaid autopilot with a VOR help me on the wiring. The Navaid shematic is looking for 2 separate signals, a left and a right, but most of the radios I am familiar with (eg. KX-155 or Terra TN200D) have a single composite output line. Is this used somehow or is the "autopilot ouput" from the CDI used? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Stan Blanton RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com>
Subject: Van's Service
Date: Sep 01, 2000
I for one have had great service from Van's... They warned me that my kit may be late, It showed up ahead off schedule. I have emailed Scott several times and he has always answered them on the same day! I have talked to several others there that have been helpful. Sometimes they seem stressed out, but they always help me! The phone system has always worked for me as well. I sent an order for 2 day air to them on the web this weekend and it showed up right on time! Seems some people think that they are suppose to hold your hand with each rivet. I am glad that I chose Vans as my first kitplane! Brian Chesteen RV-6 Emp Happy Van's Customer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com>
Subject: oil press - mixture cable
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Is it normal to have to adjust the oil press after about 100 hours after major??? I'm seeing 100psi at 2100 rpm. Would this raise in pressure be indicative of some component beginning to fail???? I've installed vans mixture cable on a vans bracket and find the throw of the cable doesn't allow stop to stop travel. Is it necessary or does the carb achieve full lean sooner than hitting the stop. (rich would be to stop)???? Anybody play with the cell phone interface on the pma 7000? It sounds cool, and of coarse would only be used on the ground. Steven DiNieri capsteve(at)wzrd.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: How to clean off 100 LL blue dye?
> His wing-root-mounted gascolator has leaked, leaving a blue >streak down the underside of the wing. Plane is painted with Imron 6000. >Has tried everything, including carb cleaner and lacquer thinner, but blue >dye stain remains. I have used gas antifreeze (for winter treatment of car gas) on gas stains. If it is IN the paint rather than ON the paint, may be too deep to clean with something simple................ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: LP3-4 rivets
Can anyone tell me what the "LP" stands for in the LP4-3 rivets? I'm trying to cross the LP4-3 rivets that Van's includes in his kit to a comparable rivet that Aircraft Spruce sells. Thanks, - Jim Andrews RV-8A ( engine ) O-360 ( Sensenich ) N89JA reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com>
Subject: Re: Cap Engraving
Date: Sep 01, 2000
I was going to send mine in, but lost the address and cost that I had saved. If you'll post the data one more time I'll have mine in the mail tomorrow. I had cleaned up the shop in order to build the RV8 fuselage jig. My apologies. Bill Christie, Phoenix ----- Original Message ----- From: <PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 7:08 PM Subject: RV-List: Cap Engraving > > Listers > > I have received about 8 sets of caps this week and will be Engraving them > tomorrow (Friday) I will be getting the badges I missed or never made their > destnation done as well. If anyone else needs their caps engraved just send > them on I will continue to do them as I receive them. > > Thanks > Steve Davis > The Panel Pilot > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: VANS HOMECOMING
Gary Sobek wrote: << There are 6 airplanes and 12 people in SoCAL that I know of that have the same comment. >> Make that 1 less RV-6 and 2 people. My father and I have decided to scrub the mission due to the forcast rain over the weekend. The main reason I wanted to go was to get some air-air shots by Ed Hicks. Maybe next year. All that work to get the intersection fairings done and the cowl and wheel pants painted in time for pictures.....Oh well, at least their done now. We'll see everybody at Golden West next weekend. Drop by and say Hi. (I'll be the one peddling glass instrument panels ;-) Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 74 hrs (and chicken about the weather) O-360, Sensenich (83) SoCal http://members3.clubphoto.com/laird244198/Laird_RV-6_N515L/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: PMA7000
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Steve, I'm working on my SL15 (UPSAT model of PMA7000) and should have the cell phone ready to test this weekend - if I can get the right jack and adapter. I've got most features hooked up and they're all working as advertised, including the stereo - no extra circuitry required. This whole building process is a series of victory celebrations. Last weekend it was the first radio check with the tower on both radios. So far no smoke has escaped. It just keeps getting better and better. Regards, Greg Young (Houston - DWH) RV-6 N6GY systems & wiring Anybody play with the cell phone interface on the pma 7000? It sounds cool, and of coarse would only be used on the ground. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Santa Rosa Seminar . . .
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Driving directions and hotel accomodations info has been posted for the Santa Rosa CA seminar Sept 30/Oct 1. It's not too late to sign up for this program. If we get a few more attendees, we'll up the doorprize ante to two, count'm TWO handheld GPS receievers. BTW, the current price of choice is the Magellan GPS 310 that accepts a serial data cable option . . . See http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html Further, there is sufficient interest in the proposed So Cal and Portland programs to pick dates and places. We'll get those programs firmed up in the next few weeks for presentations in Jan/Feb time frame. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-3 wing incidence/twist
> >Again, thanks for all replies so far! > >At this point I'm pretty much determined to change the right wing incidence by >redrilling the rear spar attachment hole (in spar). I believe I've found the >solution to maintain required strength there. > >(To recap: left wing twists down 1 degree from root to tip and right >wing twists >up 1 degree or more from root to tip.) > >But I'm no longer sure that setting the *midpoint* of the right wing to the >specified 1 degrees positive incidence is the way to go. > >Please give the pro's and con's to this solution: > >Set outboard edge of the right wing to the specified 1 degree >positive incidence. >Then compensate for the resulting 0 degree incidence at the root by >lowering the >flap so that cord from wing leading edge to flap trailing edge is 1 degree >positive. Will this work? > >I'll then trim out any remaining roll tendency by squeezing/bumping ailerons >(adding trim tabs if needed). > >I feel I will only have this one shot at re-drilling the right rear spar >attachment hole, so I want to get it as close to optimum as possible. > >Finn Finn, I won't comment on the structural aspects of redrilling the spar hole other than to say that this needs to be looked at carefully by someone qualified in this area. As far as what incidence angle to set, you are quite correct to focus on getting the outboard wing sections at the same incidence, as close as you can manage. Any difference in wing incidence will show up as a roll trim problem that changes with airspeed. The outboard wing sections are more critical than the inboard, because of the longer moment arm. I would measure the incidence at several wing stations, and try to get about the same average incidence on both outboard wing halfs. You can then play with flap angles to try to deal with the difference in inboard incidence. Setting the flap angle will be an iterative approach. The required angle will be difficult to predict without doing some fancy calculations, so the best approach is to adjust, fly, adjust, etc. You may end up with stall and spin characteristics that are different than other RVs, so do some careful flight testing in this area once you are done messing around with wing incidence and flap angle. You may need to play around with a stall strip on one wing to correct a wing drop tendency. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Subject: Copperstate Dash
Date: Sep 01, 2000
RV Racers, As you know, the ACS's Copperstate Dash race is coming up in Oct. The Apple Valley, CA EAA Chapter 768 is going to help again this year. Our plan is to pick you up at the airport and delivery you to the hotel for the briefing. As well as get you back to the airport for the race the next morning. We should also have a ramp vehicle to help with any runs to the FBO for oil, etc. What I would like to know is: Do any of you have any special requests that our EAA Chapter might be able to help you with? Please contact me directly, and we will see if we will be able to help you. BTW, there were several RV-6s and at least one RV-3, where are the RV-4s. There has to be a fast "4" out there (of course, within the HP requirements of the race). Tom Gummo Chapter 768 - Acting President See what missing a meeting can cause. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: clayfly(at)libertybay.com
Subject: Gear Leg Stiffener, to be or not to be.
Date: Sep 01, 2000
This topic came up when I was getting checked out by Mike Seager. He noted that the wood stiffeners put a lot of stress on the top of the gear leg. So you might want to hold off until you've determined if they are necessary. Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 5.9 hours > > Hi, > Since I am having trouble with the Archives, I will ask the list. > > I am building an RV-6. Should I hold off till after flying to add wood > gear leg stiffeners to my airplane if needed? Or is it a safe bet that > I WILL need them? > > Thanks, > Glenn Gordon > > > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > _- =========================================================== > > >** --------- End Original Message ----------- ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-3 wing incidence/twist
finn i met a man today at plant city who has a set of rv 3 wings for sale. i haven't seen them, but he claims there straight. i got his name & number if you need it. good luck scott tampa rv6a wiring, wiring, wiring wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: Re: The Lure of Flight
awsome austin !!!! scott tampa rv6a riviting faster than ever now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Rivnuts & Canopy
I am ready to drill the canopy to the frame on my RV4. I am leaning toward rivnuts. The manuel shows AK-44-BS or AACQ-4-4 to fasten the canopy to the frame. What size rivnut should I use or is there a reason I should use rivets instead. I don't have any information that tell's what a AK-44-BS or AACQ-4-4 is but assume they are rivets or rivnuts. Earl RV4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Torque screw driver
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Listers, McMaster-Carr carries Seekonk torque screwdrivers. I got one when I overhauled my magnetos because I wanted all the little screws inside to be tight enough. http://www.seekonk.com/ Mark McGee RV4 Kit in storage until due to relocation http://pweb.netcom.com/~riveter/homepage.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of gert Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 5:44 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Torque screw driver Mine is by utica, bought it second hand for $25.- There were several, all gone within 30 min's after opening of the doors. Found the same one in several high-end catalogs going between $120 and $180. Gert Shelby Smith wrote: > > > How much and who make that one? > > -- > Shelby Smith > shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com > RV6A - Skinning Fuselage - 200HP > N95EB - reserved > > ---------- > >From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Question > >Date: Wed, Aug 30, 2000, 9:42 PM > > > > > I recently (Oshkosh) acquired a torque screwdriver. I did this because > > of the tank attach bolts not being accessable with a torque wrench. > > > > The torque screwdriver has a range from 6-36 inch-lbs. > -- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: benedict crash?
rv-list(at)matronics.com has there been anything reported as to the cause of crash? i read in paper here that there was fog in the area. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: ELT Ant Loc
Another question for ya'll, In the process of wiring my ELT ant. cable.....Ive seen several ELT ant installations under the emp faring. Those of you who have done this or know anyone who has have you had any difficulty in getting this by the FAA? Do you think it will drastically decrease ELT effectiveness? Just looking for ideas...thanks again for all of your time. Kurt, OKC, OK (tired of 100 deg temps outside...wishing I had an air conditioned garage!!!!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Alum Gear Leg Fairing Pins.
Hi, Is the hoseclamp method of securing the RV-6's gear leg fairing pins there to keep the fairing from sliding down the gear leg? It seems the hose clamp method suggested in the manual is less than a clean method of securing those pins. Since the manual has us put a hole in the fuselage to keep them from rotating, is it possible to insert the pin from inside the fuselage? Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: benedict crash?
Date: Sep 01, 2000
> has there been anything reported as to the cause of crash? i read in paper > here that there was fog in the area. You can find the NTSB report at http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/FTW/00A113.htm. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Alum Gear Leg Fairing Pins.
Date: Sep 01, 2000
> Is the hoseclamp method of securing the RV-6's gear leg fairing pins > there to keep the fairing from sliding down the gear leg? Friction of the fairings against the gear leg does a good job of keeping them from sliding down. They fit pretty tight (the AL ones anyway). The hose clamp at the bottom and hole in the fuselage at the top mainly serve to keep it aligned and in trail. I made a mark on the bottom of the leg that lines up with where the pin should be clamped to be in trail at the bottom. I wrapped some electrical tape around there to keep the hose clamp from chafing the gear leg; even better would be some baffle seal material or perhaps the rubber cushion from an adel clamp. As for inserting the pin from the inside, well, wouldn't work too well for me as there's a lot in the way, but I suppose it might work. But you'd need two people for the job. Its a pain getting them in from the bottom but at least I can do it by myself. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Gear Stiffener
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Just my 0.02 on the subject of stiffeners. I installed the wood strips on the mains and nose gear of my RV-6A. I later replaced the nose gear with the beefier one offered by Vans. I tried it without the wood stiffeners and had shimmy so put the wood back on and no shimmy in my case. I keep a little more air in the nose gear and a little more pressure on the loading spring.. I also had an incident (almost) in which I believe the wood stiffeners on the mains kelp my aircraft from damage. I was taking off on a 2300 ft hardsurface strip when at 80 mph and roughly 40 ft in the air the engine began to surge with rpm dropping and climbing back in about a 2 second interval. Had no ideal whether that would maintain flight or whether it would get worst/better. So had to decide quickly. There was a Golf course off the end of the runway over trees with no really good fairways (like long and straight) and after that nothing but trees. In any event, I always said I'd rather go off the end of the runway at 20 mph than find my self in the air with less viable options. So I elected to set the RV down on the remaining runway. Got the wheels on the tarmac 350 ft from the end -airspeed was probably still close to 80 mph as I had to dive for the runway. Now about the wood stiffeners. I got on the binders hard as soon as I touched down and left twin rubber marks for the remaining distance, steered between two end of runway markers and ended up about 12 ft off the end of the runway in the grass. No damage except to my nerves. I am convinced that if I had not had the wood stiffeners that the main gear would have dribbled and skipped rather than stayed attached to the tarmac. The brakes never locked the wheels as there was no flat spot on the tires but clearly the tires have a soft rubber compound. I believe that without the wood stiffeners that as the spring gear rod would have not kelp the wheels on the tarmac. Now if you never have to brake hard (and I hope you don't) then probably no reason to be concerned. Ah, the engine surge - not to worry the vast majority flying Lycomings - it was an electronic fuel injection system problem on an non aircraft engine. Just my 0.02 worth Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Matthews NC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: ELT Ant Loc
KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM wrote: > > > Another question for ya'll, > > In the process of wiring my ELT ant. cable.....Ive seen several ELT > ant installations under the emp faring. The ELT antenna in my RV-6 is mounted under the emp fairing: http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/panel.html > Those of you who have done this or > know anyone who has have you had any difficulty in getting this by the FAA? No trouble in my case. > Do you think it will drastically decrease ELT effectiveness? This is an interesting question. Before you can address this question you have to consider some issues: 1) In what attitude will the wreckage be sitting once the crash has concluded? 2) Which parts of the airframe will be intact following the crash? 3) Will the antenna coax still be connected to the ELT following the crash? 4) Will the ELT, which has a spotty reliability record, even be activated? Personally, I don't have answers to any of these questions. Therefore I can't offer an opinion as to how the emp fairing installation effects ELT effectiveness. All I can do is hope the ELT works ok if the tail ends up pointing the right direction, the rear half of the fuse is still intact, the coax hasn't been ripped out of the connectors, and the silly ELT manages to turn itself on at the proper time. Matter of fact, all the above considerations apply to ANY type of ELT installation. Who can predict the effectiveness of any ELT installation following a particular crash? So, use you best judgment with the installation, hope the thing works if called upon, and forget it. And hopefully your DAR will be a friendly one. :-) Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 177 hrs) "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal Just looking ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Homecoming
Date: Sep 01, 2000
This is pretty late to be mentioning this but I just realized many people probably don't know about the EAA chapter 105 pancake breakfast, at Twin Oaks Airpark (7S3) Saturday Morning September 2. This is a great way to start the day before moving on to the festivities at Van's Homecoming. See you all there! Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: bob floodeen <bobbyf(at)anv.net>
Subject: Re: Alum Gear Leg Fairing Pins.
Yes. and put a 90 bend on them to keep them in place/ RV6A Phil Walker 525PW a month from flying Chevy V6 engine > >Hi, > >Is the hoseclamp method of securing the RV-6's gear leg fairing pins >there to keep the fairing from sliding down the gear leg? > >It seems the hose clamp method suggested in the manual is less than a >clean method of securing those pins. Since the manual has us put a hole >in the fuselage to keep them from rotating, is it possible to insert the >pin from inside the fuselage? > >Thanks, >Glenn Gordon > > ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Navaid & VOR
In a message dated 9/1/00 7:31:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time, stanb(at)door.net writes: << The Navaid schematic is looking for 2 separate signals, a left and a right, but most of the radios I am familiar with (eg. KX-155 or Terra TN200D) have a single composite output line. Is this used somehow or is the "autopilot output" from the CDI used? >> You need the Porcine Associates coupler. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts & Canopy
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Earl: I would suggest A6-75 rivnuts. They are for 6-32 screws. Just bought a bunch yesterday for my -8 canopy. I have a local source, but AC Spruce sells them. I'm using SS screws and probably won't paint over them. Mike Robbins RV8Q canopy Seattle area > > I am ready to drill the canopy to the frame on my RV4. I am leaning > toward rivnuts. The manuel shows AK-44-BS or AACQ-4-4 to fasten > the canopy to the frame. What size rivnut should I use or is there > a reason I should use rivets instead. I don't have any information > that tell's what a AK-44-BS or AACQ-4-4 is but assume they are > rivets or rivnuts. > Earl RV4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2000
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: VANS HOMECOMING
Laird, Smart move, when your sitting around telling your great grand kids all your old flying stories, at least you'll be there to tell the tales. Mother natures lessons are severe and permanent. See you soon. Garry "6" 0360 Sensenich (85) Still finishing after all these months. "Owens, Laird" wrote: > > Gary Sobek wrote: > > << There are 6 airplanes and 12 people in SoCAL that I > know of that have the same comment. >> > > Make that 1 less RV-6 and 2 people. My father and I have decided to scrub the mission due to the forcast rain over the weekend. The main reason I wanted to go was to get some air-air shots by Ed Hicks. Maybe next year. All that work to get the intersection fairings done and the cowl and wheel pants painted in time for pictures.....Oh well, at least their done now. > > We'll see everybody at Golden West next weekend. Drop by and say Hi. (I'll be the one peddling glass instrument panels ;-) > > Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 74 hrs (and chicken about the weather) > O-360, Sensenich (83) > SoCal > http://members3.clubphoto.com/laird244198/Laird_RV-6_N515L/ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Flight Planning Web Site
Date: Sep 01, 2000
Listers, If you have not seen this flight planning site you should have a look. http://www.aeroplanner.com/hello.cfm Mark McGee RV4 in storage due to relocation http://pweb.netcom.com/~riveter/homepage.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Sep 02, 2000
Just my 0.02 on the subject of stiffeners. I installed the wood strips on the mains and nose gear of my RV-6A. I later replaced the nose gear with the beefier one offered by Vans. I tried it without the wood stiffeners and had shimmy so put the wood back on and no shimmy in my case. I keep a little more air in the nose gear and a little more pressure on the loading spring.. I also had an incident (almost) in which I believe the wood stiffeners on the mains kelp my aircraft from damage. I was taking off on a 2300 ft hardsurface strip when at 80 mph and roughly 40 ft in the air the engine began to surge with rpm dropping and climbing back in about a 2 second interval. Had no ideal whether that would maintain flight or whether it would get worst/better. So had to decide quickly. There was a Golf course off the end of the runway over trees with no really good fairways (like long and straight) and after that nothing but trees. In any event, I always said I'd rather go off the end of the runway at 20 mph than find my self in the air with less viable options. So I elected to set the RV down on the remaining runway. Got the wheels on the tarmac 350 ft from the end -airspeed was probably still close to 80 mph as I had to dive for the runway. Now about the wood stiffeners. I got on the binders hard as soon as touched down and left twin rubber marks for the remaining distance, steered between two end of runway markers and ended up about 12 ft off the end of the runway in the grass. No damage except to my nerves. I am convinced that if I had not had the wood stiffeners that the main gear would have dribbled and skipped rather than stayed attached to the tarmac. The brakes never locked the wheels as there was no flat spot on the tires but clearly the tires have a soft rubber compound. I believe that without the wood stiffeners that as the spring rod was pulled back by the braking when and then the spring rod would overcome the friction of the wheel and spring forward. Just my 0.02 worth Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . .
From: pcondon(at)csc.com
Date: Sep 01, 2000
09/01/2000 09:41:49 AM Try a Amperite STOPALERT flasher. the web page is ..http://www.amperite.com/stop.htm#Solving. Elect Bob was emailed a note so we can get his advice on this product... Cost is around 18 dollars and is the size of two match boxes bask-to-back meketa (at)matronics.com on 08/31/2000 11:26:59 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: Re: RV-List: Galls wig/wag flasher . . . Hello Yall, I too bought a Gall's flasher. I felt it was too heavy and sold it at cost to a friend for his Suburban. I am still patiently waiting for the flasher unit from Bob Haan. Looking forward to a critique from someone going to the banquet. There is supposed to be a working example there. I will require something very soon. When ordering aircraft parts one must have patience. Things are many times backordered and take time to receive. Order the parts with a real person and write down their name for future reference. If not in hand when promised a call is in order, but I always give the benefit of doubt to the person on the other end. When I need something overnight it is almost always do to my poor planing. Some seem to blame their poor planing and lack of patience on Van's staff. George Meketa RV-8 IO360-A1A CS :control cables crimped today and measuring for fuel\ oil hoses. Painting interior and wiring soon. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net>
"RV-List Digest Server"
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 52 Msgs - 09/01/00
Date: Sep 02, 2000
I read both of the Star articles about the crash. Both seemed well done. Only one factual error I believe, isn't it still 500 feet over populated areas? Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact! (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Gascolator in RV-4
Date: Sep 02, 2000
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" I already asked another lister this question but I'd like to hear as many opinions on this as I can. I'm just starting on installing the fuel system in the cockpit of my RV-4 and I find myself thinking about things like firewall penetrations and gascolator locations. I'm just wondering if some of the RV-4 builders who used gascolators can tell me where on the firewall the put the dang thing? Thanks for anything you can tell me. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: 6A Gear Stiffeners
Date: Sep 02, 2000
I'm hesitant to contradict people like Mike Seager although I don't know exactly what he said about stiffeners.... in any case my inclination is to give more weight to practical experience in the field than to theories... The whittman style main gear used on the RV-3, 4 and -6 has withstood the test of time IMHO. I've seen the results of hard landings so bad that the wheel pants dented the bottom of the fuel tanks, and the gear still sprung back well enough for the thing to more or less rest on the gear. I am not aware of any accidents that are attributed to main gear failure (if anyone knows of one I'm sure they'll correct me :-), and am aware of several where the gear had every right to fail but didn't. I'd guess that half the flying RVs out there have the stiffeners, so it seems to me to be a non-issue. As for the nose gear, well, we all know about the problems with the original design, and as for the new ones, I wouldn't venture a guess (got a tailwheel y'know ;-) Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~125 hrs) Portland, OR http://www.edt.com/homewing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nicholas Knobil" <nknobil(at)gwi.net>
Subject: Ground Adjsutable Rudder Pedals
Date: Sep 02, 2000
It's Friday night on the first day of a long weekend, and I'm looking forward to three days on intensive building... I unpack my Ground Adjustable Rudder Pedal (GARP) option from it's plastic bag, and recoil in horror... My GARP is for an 8A, and I'm building a straight-8! I look at the clock an realize that Scott Risan and everyone else at Van's has gone home for the weekend! S--t! Does anyone in RV-List land know if the GARP option is interchangeable between the 8A and 8, or do I (shudder) have to work around the house this weekend? Nick Knobil (80549) Bowdoinham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Gascolator in RV-4
Date: Sep 02, 2000
> I already asked another lister this question but I'd like to hear as many > opinions on this as I can. I'm just starting on installing the fuel system > in the cockpit of my RV-4 and I find myself thinking about things like > firewall penetrations and gascolator locations. I'm just wondering if some > of the RV-4 builders who used gascolators can tell me where on the firewall > the put the dang thing? Thanks for anything you can tell me. Scott: On my -4, my fuel line lines forward from the fuel selector on the lower LHS of the "battery box". It runs first to my fuel flow transducer, then to the electric boost pump. It then penetrates the firewall. Through this bulkhead fitting is attached a 90 degree alum tube (firesleeved) that runs attaches to a Andair gascolator. The gascolator is secured to a 3/4"x3/4"x1/8" piece of alum angle which in turn is secured to the lower engine mount crosspiece using 2 Adel clamps. This explanation probably sounds confusing, and if you like I can further explain it off list if you like. Doug Weiler ================ Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Ground Adjsutable Rudder Pedals
Date: Sep 02, 2000
Nick, They are not interchangable. The 8A has an additional weldement that is hinged to the lower longeron, the 8 does not. I know be cause Van's sent me the straight 8 kit & I needed the 8A kit.....Mark Mark Steffensen 8A Dallas, TX Flying 32 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nicholas Knobil" <nknobil(at)gwi.net> Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 1:35 PM Subject: RV-List: Ground Adjsutable Rudder Pedals > > > It's Friday night on the first day of a long weekend, and I'm looking > forward to three days on intensive building... > > I unpack my Ground Adjustable Rudder Pedal (GARP) option from it's plastic > bag, and recoil in horror... > > My GARP is for an 8A, and I'm building a straight-8! I look at the clock an > realize that Scott Risan and everyone else at Van's has gone home for the > weekend! S--t! > > Does anyone in RV-List land know if the GARP option is interchangeable > between the 8A and 8, or do I (shudder) have to work around the house this > weekend? > > Nick Knobil (80549) > Bowdoinham, Maine > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ground Adjsutable Rudder Pedals
Date: Sep 02, 2000
> It's Friday night on the first day of a long weekend, and I'm looking > forward to three days on intensive building... > > I unpack my Ground Adjustable Rudder Pedal (GARP) option from it's plastic > bag, and recoil in horror... > > My GARP is for an 8A, and I'm building a straight-8! I look at the clock an > realize that Scott Risan and everyone else at Van's has gone home for the > weekend! S--t! > > Does anyone in RV-List land know if the GARP option is interchangeable > between the 8A and 8, or do I (shudder) have to work around the house this > weekend? > > Nick Knobil (80549) > Bowdoinham, Maine Nick.... I know that, at the time I installed mine (over a year ago), they were the same. I actually ended up with both types, but ended up installing the "in-flight adjustable" pedals because it was an easier, cleaner installation. Vans may have changed the plans since then, because my pedals only had plans for the 8. Just study the drawings, and I'm sure you'll figure it out. Good luck. Jerry Carter Memphis, TN My RV-8A website: http://rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Drill bushing idea
Date: Sep 02, 2000
I was trying to figure out what to use as a drill bushing when I had an idea that I THINK is original. My apologies if somebody came up with this independently. Anyhow, I wanted to share this with my fellow Listers. In my other life as a scale plastic model builder, I use brass tubing for various things. Most hobby shops sell this stuff, which I think is under the trade name of K & S Tubing. Your local hobby shop sells it for use in models, radio control stuff, train layouts, and the like. It comes in numerous concentric sizes (which means each size will fit snugly inside the next size up), starting at about 1/2" and going down from there. Cut an appropriate length of the size that will fit in your hole, then cut one or more smaller sizes until you get one that will hold a drill bit to make the pilot hole. Slide them inside each other and drill away! It works great, and you can buy a lifetime supply for under $10.00. Good luck. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A N143DJ Working on wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2000
From: KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: Gascolator in RV-4
>I'm just wondering if some of the RV-4 builders who used gascolators can tell me where on >the firewall to put the dang thing? Mine is located low on the fire wall about center and above the lower edge of the fire wall/fuselage intersection. It has a 45 degree fitting on the back side (behind the firewall) for fuel in and a 90 degree fitting forward for fuel out, into a fire sleeved fuel line. It has the drain accessible from underneath, that is (of course) part of every preflight to drain. The gascolator is mounted a cute little box for fire protection and that has a blow tube coming to it for cooling air off the baffling. With every fuel stop, I open the oil access door to allow cooling air to come up through the lower cowling and out the oil door, cooling the gascolator while the airplane is on the ground. Never have had starting or running problems, up to 120 degrees ramp temperature. I know, gascolators belong on tractors: see the archives for that discussion........you either like 'em or you don't. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Ground Adjsutable Rudder Pedals
> >Does anyone in RV-List land know if the GARP option is interchangeable >between the 8A and 8, or do I (shudder) have to work around the house this >weekend? > >Nick Knobil (80549) Nick, The GARP option ties into the angle on the front side of the landing gear boxes on the 8. The 8A doesn't have this structure, so it is going to have a different mounting. I think you are going to have to wait for the correct parts. There is lots of other stuff you can probably work on, unless you are finished with everything else on the fuselage. There should be no harm in jumping ahead in other areas. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2000
From: Jim Cimino <jcimino(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts & Canopy
I used nutserts. 6-32 and got stainless CS screws. I know some people who just tap the frame to 6-32 and used screws. You can control how tight you pull your canopy...less chance of cracks. Don't want to start a debate here, but I did it and it worked for me. > >I am ready to drill the canopy to the frame on my RV4. I am leaning >toward rivnuts. The manuel shows AK-44-BS or AACQ-4-4 to fasten >the canopy to the frame. What size rivnut should I use or is there >a reason I should use rivets instead. I don't have any information >that tell's what a AK-44-BS or AACQ-4-4 is but assume they are >rivets or rivnuts. >Earl RV4 > > Jim Cimino RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo (570)842-4057 N.E. Pennsylvania ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 02, 2000
Subject: Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . .
In a message dated 9/2/00 5:16:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com writes: << Try a Amperite STOPALERT flasher. the web page is ..http://www.amperite.com/stop.htm#Solving. Elect Bob was emailed a note so we can get his advice on this product... Cost is around 18 dollars and is the size of two match boxes bask-to-back >> The SSAC <http://www.ssac.com> P/N KRD3120B is a very robust potted unit, has adjustable flash rate and slip on terminals. I recommend using it to control separate lamp relays (the automotive 30A jobbies work well) for each landing/taxi lamp if they are greater than 55W bulbs. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net>
Subject: electrical question
Date: Sep 02, 2000
I have been looking at avionics and instruments available on E-Bay. I am familiar with 14v and 28v. What is 115v 400hz 1 phase 13Va? It says that you can use it with an inverter? Is this adaptable to a 14v system? Some of the stuff looks nice and military quality. Any suggestions? Thanks, Ed Perry RV-8QB 180hp/CS Aluminum Gear Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2000
From: Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Titanium Ti-downs are available again
Hi RV Listers, If you don't like spam, of any kind, delete this now... I had to stop making the Titanium Ti-downs for quite a while now, but have begun making them again, and have some in stock again, ready for immediate delivery. I've rebuilt my Carrera Ultralight, flown it to the Grand Canyon (a most excellent adventure), got married, and got more Titanium Barstock, and am putting my nose to the grindstone. I've made more sets now, and am ready to sell them. I've also made more bags (included in the $10.00 extra "kit"), in more colors. I now offer the bags in: black, navy blue, electric blue, charcoal gray, gray, maroon, and fuchsia. I'll be updating my webpage that shows the colors, later this weekend. My price for the (#5164-3) four coil, three Ti-down set w/cheater bar and scotchbrite cleanup pad, unpolished, is $50 (to RV Listers). The "kit" (#5164-3K)is $10 more, at $60. The kit includes a carrying bag and three high quality 8' ropes. My price for the (#5165-3) five coil, three Ti-down set w/cheater bar and scotchbrite cleanup pad, unpolished, is $60 (to RV Listers). The "kit" (#5165-3K)is $10 more, at $70. Most of my RV customers have gone for the five coil sets or kits. Four coil is good enuf for most situations, but the extra coil offers a little more holding power for sandy soil. Anyway, I have the four and five coil Ti-downs in stock, and can ship them immediately, if you still want them. I prefer payment by check, made out and mailed to: Airtime Mfg. 345 Scravel Hill Rd. SE Albany, Oregon 97321 If you do want a set or kit, e-mail me your address, and which set or kit you'd like, and what color of bag if you want the kit, and I'll send them out as soon as I get your order. Sincerely, Randy Simpson Airtime Mfg. http://www.airtimemfg.com/ p.s. I do polish the Triangle part of the Ti-downs on the unpolished ones. pp.s. If you inquired about the Ti-downs in the past, and haven't recieved a reply recently, please send me another email. I'm on it now... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: . . . just couldn't stand it.
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At the request of several readers, I sat down at the bench last week and doped out a good way to use the popular Galls emergency vehicle flasher as a wig_wag system for airplanes. The thing was useable but it just struck me as too expensive, too heavy, and drove the total parts count in the system up. Been thrashing the seeds of an idea for several days. I've published an elegant alternative to the Galls system on our website. Check out the top item at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html I am by no means suggesting that folks rip out the Galls system if it's installed and working to their satisfaction . . . there's nothing wrong with the way the thing functions. However, if you plan to have a wig_wag see-and-be-seen system on your airplane and you've not yet purchased hardware to do it, consider the new drawing I've posted for a lower cost, lighter, and easier to install alternative. We'll have an assembled flasher assembly to add with relay and switches already stock in our catalog pretty soon. Alternatively, you may roll-your-own from data supplied in the drawing. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2000
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: electrical question
Charlie and Tupper England edperry64 wrote: > > > I have been looking at avionics and instruments available on E-Bay. I am > familiar with 14v and 28v. What is 115v 400hz 1 phase 13Va? It says that > you can use it with an inverter? Is this adaptable to a 14v system? Some of > the stuff looks nice and military quality. Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Ed Perry A lot of old military stuff (& maybe new as well) is designed to run on 400 hz. You can build an inverter to make 115v 400hz power, but it's a pretty big project in itself; ntl for the faint of heart or electronic-challenged. Military electric attitude indicators are often available really cheap, & that's why. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Apollo Stack
Date: Sep 02, 2000
I am mounting my Apollo radio stack -- all two of them -- GX60 and SL70. My avionics shop (Avionics Place -- RFD) says I must leave a 1/4 inch gap between radios, per Apollo mounting instructions. As the Apollo stack grows, that 1/4 inch sure takes a bite out of the available radio real estate. The Apollo ads sure don't show any gap between radios. Apollo's claim to fame is no fan required -- there is no duct on the cage as with other radios I've seen, so I guess the 1/4 inch gap is an aid to connective cooling. Have others using Apollo radios met this 1/4 inch gap requirement? Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A Hartzell 0.0 hours Hampshire, IL C38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com>
Subject: Ground Adjsutable Rudder Pedals
Date: Sep 02, 2000
Nick, I just re-thought your question. I bought the rear rudder pedal kit that is different between the 8 & 8A. The ground adjustable rudder kit should be the same. I have it in my A/C. The kit as I remember it is the weldements for the pedals etc. & 2 angle channels that are riveted to the floor. Remember to install nut plates on the right angle as once you install the bagage compartment sheet metal you won't be able to get a wrench on the nut due to limited clearance if you ever want to move the position of the pedals. Look at the plans & you should be able to figure it out....Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)home.com> Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 2:32 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Ground Adjsutable Rudder Pedals > Nick, > > They are not interchangable. The 8A has an additional weldement that is > hinged to the lower longeron, the 8 does not. I know be cause Van's sent me > the straight 8 kit & I needed the 8A kit.....Mark > > Mark Steffensen > 8A Dallas, TX Flying 32 hours > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Nicholas Knobil" <nknobil(at)gwi.net> > To: > Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 1:35 PM > Subject: RV-List: Ground Adjsutable Rudder Pedals > > > > > > > > It's Friday night on the first day of a long weekend, and I'm looking > > forward to three days on intensive building... > > > > I unpack my Ground Adjustable Rudder Pedal (GARP) option from it's plastic > > bag, and recoil in horror... > > > > My GARP is for an 8A, and I'm building a straight-8! I look at the clock > an > > realize that Scott Risan and everyone else at Van's has gone home for the > > weekend! S--t! > > > > Does anyone in RV-List land know if the GARP option is interchangeable > > between the 8A and 8, or do I (shudder) have to work around the house this > > weekend? > > > > Nick Knobil (80549) > > Bowdoinham, Maine > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Sep 02, 2000
"RV-List: Titanium Ti-downs are available again" (Sep 2, 3:46pm)
Subject: Re: Titanium Ti-downs are available again
Hi Listers, As a data point, I have a set of Randy's Titanium Ti-downs and, while I can't atest to their holding power since my RV-4 isn't done yet, I can say that these are *very* nice units. Randy puts a lot of care into making them and it shows. I consider his price excellent for the product supplied. IMHO. Matt Dralle RV-4 Builder >-------------- > >Hi RV Listers, > >If you don't like spam, of any kind, delete this now... > >I had to stop making the Titanium Ti-downs for quite a while now, but have >begun making them again, and have some in stock again, ready for immediate >delivery. > >I've rebuilt my Carrera Ultralight, flown it to the Grand Canyon (a most >excellent adventure), got married, and got more Titanium Barstock, and am >putting my nose to the grindstone. > >I've made more sets now, and am ready to sell them. > >I've also made more bags (included in the $10.00 extra "kit"), in more >colors. I now offer the bags in: black, navy blue, electric blue, charcoal >gray, gray, maroon, and fuchsia. I'll be updating my webpage that shows the >colors, later this weekend. > >My price for the (#5164-3) four coil, three Ti-down set w/cheater bar and >scotchbrite cleanup pad, unpolished, is $50 (to RV Listers). The "kit" >(#5164-3K)is $10 more, at $60. The kit includes a carrying bag and three >high quality 8' ropes. > >My price for the (#5165-3) five coil, three Ti-down set w/cheater bar and >scotchbrite cleanup pad, unpolished, is $60 (to RV Listers). The "kit" >(#5165-3K)is $10 more, at $70. > >Most of my RV customers have gone for the five coil sets or kits. Four coil >is good enuf for most situations, but the extra coil offers a little more >holding power for sandy soil. > >Anyway, I have the four and five coil Ti-downs in stock, and can ship them >immediately, if you still want them. > >I prefer payment by check, made out and mailed to: > >Airtime Mfg. >345 Scravel Hill Rd. SE >Albany, Oregon 97321 > >If you do want a set or kit, e-mail me your address, and which set or kit >you'd like, and what color of bag if you want the kit, and I'll send them >out as soon as I get your order. > >Sincerely, >Randy Simpson >Airtime Mfg. >http://www.airtimemfg.com/ > >p.s. I do polish the Triangle part of the Ti-downs on the unpolished ones. > >pp.s. If you inquired about the Ti-downs in the past, and haven't recieved >a reply recently, please send me another email. I'm on it now... > > >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: electrical question
Date: Sep 02, 2000
ED - Your favorite airliner - DC10, MD11, DC9, 727, Airbus some Business Aircraft etc. use these as well as military Big Iron. Not so good for an RV. Stick with the 14 & 28 volt. Don Eaves RV6 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of edperry64 Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 4:38 PM Subject: RV-List: electrical question I have been looking at avionics and instruments available on E-Bay. I am familiar with 14v and 28v. What is 115v 400hz 1 phase 13Va? It says that you can use it with an inverter? Is this adaptable to a 14v system? Some of the stuff looks nice and military quality. Any suggestions? Thanks, Ed Perry RV-8QB 180hp/CS Aluminum Gear Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuel System Pipe Fittings
Date: Sep 02, 2000
Couldn't find the answer to these four questions in the archives. Van's new fuel selector valve has an extra opening (presumeably for an aux tank) which the plans say to plug. The plans don't say what to plug it with. A hardware store 1/4" brass plug seems to fit the opening. 1. Any reason I shouldn't use that type of fitting? If so, what should I use? 2. If I do use it, since it isn't an AN fitting, should I apply pipe thread compound on the threads? 3. Also, Van's supplied a brass plug with their gascolator, used to seal up the primer outlet (I'm not using a priming system). Should this be installed with pipe thread compound? 4. Finally, are there any rules for torquing these plug fittings? George Kilishek RV-8 N888GK (reserved) Hacking through the firewall forward jungle ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Apollo Stack
I spoke with the UPS people at OSH on this very question. They told me no gap was necessary but a 1/8 inch gap would insure tray to tray clearance. Great question, it would be nice to get a straight answer on this one. Rob Miller Finishing --- Dennis Persyk wrote: > > > I am mounting my Apollo radio stack -- all two of > them -- GX60 and SL70. My > avionics shop (Avionics Place -- RFD) says I must > leave a 1/4 inch gap > between radios, per Apollo mounting instructions. > As the Apollo stack > grows, that 1/4 inch sure takes a bite out of the > available radio real > estate. The Apollo ads sure don't show any gap > between radios. > > Apollo's claim to fame is no fan required -- there > is no duct on the cage as > with other radios I've seen, so I guess the 1/4 inch > gap is an aid to > connective cooling. > > Have others using Apollo radios met this 1/4 inch > gap requirement? > > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A Hartzell 0.0 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2000
From: Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel System Pipe Fittings
There are aluminum AN fittings available for this, but they are not necessary. Just use what you have as long as the threads are in good condition. These type of fittings use a National Pipe Thread which is tapered. the taper is what actually does the sealing. When assembling the joints, be sure to use a good quality pipe joint compound that is gasoline proof. The pipe joint compound is primarily a lubricant and assists assembling the joint, by not letting the threads gall. Some people use fuel lube, which is fine, I use an anti seize compound. Never use teflon tape. Because the threads are tapered you don't have to tighten the heck out of them, usually snug and then 1/2 a turn will usually do it. I'm sure there are torque specs somewhere if you wanted to look for them. Good luck, Garry "6" Still finishing. Sally and George wrote: > > Couldn't find the answer to these four questions in the archives. > > Van's new fuel selector valve has an extra opening (presumeably for an aux > tank) which the plans say to plug. The plans don't say what to plug it > with. > > A hardware store 1/4" brass plug seems to fit the opening. > 1. Any reason I shouldn't use that type of fitting? If so, what should I > use? > 2. If I do use it, since it isn't an AN fitting, should I apply pipe > thread compound on the threads? > > 3. Also, Van's supplied a brass plug with their gascolator, used to seal up > the primer outlet (I'm not using a priming system). Should this be > installed with pipe thread compound? > > 4. Finally, are there any rules for torquing these plug fittings? > > George Kilishek > RV-8 N888GK (reserved) > Hacking through the firewall forward jungle > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Fuel System Pipe Fittings
In a message dated 9/2/00 7:58:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time, aeronut58(at)hotmail.com writes: << A hardware store 1/4" brass plug seems to fit the opening. 1. Any reason I shouldn't use that type of fitting? If so, what should I use?>> Why not save the weight and get the aluminum equivalent from ACS. Remember, save an ounce a day. <<2. If I do use it, since it isn't an AN fitting, should I apply pipe thread compound on the threads?>> Whether or not it is an AN fitting has no bearing on its needing sealant. All aluminum to aluminum fittings should use Sealube or similar because of their galling/seizing tendency. Other threaded pipe fittings should get Sealube or Permatex PTFE pipe sealant (applied sparingly). << 3. Also, Van's supplied a brass plug with their gascolator, used to seal up the primer outlet (I'm not using a priming system). Should this be installed with pipe thread compound?>> IMO replace with aluminum and use sealant. << 4. Finally, are there any rules for torquing these plug fittings? >> Tighten until they don't leak and won't fall out. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Apollo Stack
Date: Sep 03, 2000
There is a gap between baskets that is required to insure that the radio faces will have clearance. The faces overhang the basket by about 1/8" which would give 1/4" between baskets a minimum. I've mixed three brands (garmin, Apollo, ps engineering) and it seems to be common. I'd set spacing with radios inserted to minimize any unsightly gaps between units. Imho I'd still use at least a single troll av fan just to blow across the backside of your avionics. Fwiw .02 Steven DiNieri I spoke with the UPS people at OSH on this very question. They told me no gap was necessary but a 1/8 inch gap would insure tray to tray clearance. Great question, it would be nice to get a straight answer on this one. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Subject: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00
Isn't there anyone on this list? GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: The Lure of Flight
Date: Sep 03, 2000
"lothar klingmuller" You did it again Austin! Your gift of " word smithing" deserves to be preserved in the archives *, so future builders have an incentive to keep building and ALL fliers can dream, recall and enjoy the wonders of the skies without actually being there. Thank you, thank you! *Your last line was deleted! -----Original Message----- From: Austin <6430(at)axion.net> Date: Thursday, August 31, 2000 7:36 PM Subject: RV-List: The Lure of Flight >Delete quickly in order not to be vexed by the surreal and fantastic... >No worthy tech help is in the following.......only RV addiction.......my >apologies..... > > >If you are still here, I would ask of you..... >"What the heck is flying all about anyway" ? >....It is about folks like you and me who feel a strong magnetic draw to >challenge the elements , and physics I suppose, to leave the earth and view >it from above and maneuver in the third dimension and feel the magic of >playing in the sky and cloud, where mortals should not be. > We like to be in an element of the unreal with a hint of danger and >individualism all thrown in together to make a stew of adventure which we >partake of because it takes a good dash of courage to commit to and also >join a band of gamblers..... > Go out to an airfield when the weather is frightful. >Open the door or canopy, climb in and sit there and watch the rain flow >uphill, see the wind sock tormented by the gail, and dream that you are in >control of destiny and the winds, and that you can challenge both and >win...and have the time of your life in the doing. > In the everyday way of life, people we stroll past in the super >market, know nothing of who we are and the adventure we seek out to go aloft >and encounter strong winds and dark clouds and talk to the earth to say who >we are and whence we are bound, but we have flown among nature's strongest >demonstrations of might and come back home to set upon the ground and put >our craft away , happy in the knowing that we did it again and with respect, >will rise to meet it once again.....it surely reinforces us..tells us who we >are ..and what we are about.... >I mention the supermarket because by happy circumstance, I round a corner >and who do I meet but old Franz....my mundane day is transformed.... >Happy eyes greet each other and I speak the few words of German greeting >that I know >and Franz's face lights up and we are two flyers from different worlds and >times who are melded into a here and now fraternity of flyers who care not, >nor how, that our past differs. > Franz is frail now, but the eyes and mind are sharp and happy and we >soon launch into airplane talk and how we mastered this and that..... >I was telling about the ecstasy of the FW 190, and its' beautiful virtues, >and he countered with his love of the 109 and better yet, the 262..."our >life insurance" he said !..... > I told him that I was building hard, that I may get up there again >after having sold my wonderful 6 to get the $$ to do what I had to do >now....you know...engine, etc.. on and on... >He sympathized with me and said , " I know how it is...I had to sell my >beloved Messerschmidt"...".limited income you know ".. >I am no hero worshiper, but I would thrill for the day that I could take old >Franz up in my RV and let him take us to the glory days, for just a little >while.... > I saw that the deep scar in his forehead..(from the tailgunner's .50 >caliber) was more prominent than ever...he fingered it gently and laughed a >soft laugh, and told me that it was just one of many reminders of what >happened long ago to a tired flier. > " I was shot down 14 times "....".10 by bombers..B17s..3 by flak..and >once I shot myself down " > Once I had been reposted to an area near Bavaria and was shot down >above a cloud layer and when I bailed out and pulled the cord,...I found >myself standing on the ground just a moment or two afterwards.....I forgot >that we were in mountains and that the ground level was much higher than I >thought it was...." > I was picked up by a girl and her father and later she wanted to see >where I hid my parachute...being silk and so....therefore, since we were >obliged to report what happened to our equipment, we went into the woods >together, and that is where I lost my parachute.....with a girl..... > "Come to think of it, in the last year of combat, I never returned to >base once without bullet holes in my craft " !.... > What can you say after a chance meeting like this one ? >The quest for potatoes and milk doesn't seem so real and necessary after a >talk like that.... >I hated to see the end of it, but old Franz had a hip replacement and was >tired and wanted to go home.... >I will fly with Franz...that is for sure..... >He flew with Marseilles in the desert and must also have been a virtuoso of >the flying machine to last through to the end of it. > We all have our values and dreams and aspirations, and enjoy the chance >to be close to the things we admire and respect.....and some fliers >certainly instill this respect... > I am a year away from flight, and I remember just as if it were >yesterday, how it was when I flew my 6 for the first time....by myself.... > My hand was tight on the stick, I pushed forward the "GO'' handle, opening >the tap, and something pushed me in the back and I was dancing to stay on >the black part, and we got light......very light...and sweeping upwards..... >My God ! we are doing it ! we did this ! we are leaving the green behind >and climbing into the blue !! ......she is running hard and bidding me catch >up and we are soon out over the sea.....I think about back stick and just >with an index finger, we are like the space shuttle, clawing upward to the >cloud base......wow !!! .. we must come back a bit and see if mount and >rider can resolve who is in control...!!! > We soon begin to understand each other's steps and set off for the >underside of the very dark and flat base of a solid cloud deck....... >But rays of sunlight blast through here and there and give us a beacon to >buoy us up and say that home is not far away and racing in the airway is >still OK for now.... >I am overwhelmed by the quick and ready response to what I think I want to >do through the stick....just edge her down and leave the throttle where she >be, and cast a quick glance at the needle........My God ! Are we really at >210 ???....I can hear the wind scream at the canopy and set course for 010 >and we are in friendly airspace in a twinkling.. >Landing...I am alone and no one else is up....a wonderful wide and sweeping >curve and we are on final, over the grass, and engine loafing, touch down >and bounce and bounce again....and again...and roll out with veins >popping......what a benediction !!! >I am converted for ever !!!!!........ >Old Franz, however old...would feel the thrill of youth again, and remember >the old days and how it was.....once he got behind the stick of an RV.. > Those of you flying already know all this. >This is for those yet to come.....follow that beacon burning bright....you >will love it !! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nicholas Knobil" <nknobil(at)gwi.net>
Subject: RV-8 Rear Rudder Pedals
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Having shelved the front rudder pedals for the weekend until I can badger Scott, I moved to the Rear Rudder Pedals. Reviewing the plans, I see that they mention the F852A (Fwd Rudder Cable) and the F852B (Rear Rudder Cable). I don't have a F852B, nor do the instructions mention cutting the F852A into and attaching clevises to the cut ends. An I missing something obvious, or am I simply missing some rudder cables? Am I going to be Scott Risan's best buddy on Tuesday? Avoiding yard work for all I'm worth, Nick Knobil (80549) Bowdoinham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Subject: Re: Flight Planning Web Site
I like and use airnav.com---you might take a look at it too. I think nothing replaces drawing a line with a highlighter on a sectional chart. It is great to buy them for $6.75 at MyPilotStore.com with no tax or shipping charge! Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas RV-6A flying past 280 hours Just returned from Ontario, Canada! Mark McGee wrote: > > > Listers, > > If you have not seen this flight planning site you should have a look. > http://www.aeroplanner.com/hello.cfm > > Mark McGee > RV4 in storage due to relocation > http://pweb.netcom.com/~riveter/homepage.html > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: AK-450 ELT Antenna
I am in the process of installing this ELT and noticed that the antenna is a 24" steel whip. The instructions want me to install this out in the breeze but there must be a better way. How have some of you concealed this whip in order to prevent adding drag? Rob Miller Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: Hank Gallagher <hank-g(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00
I signed up two weeks ago and yours is the first message I have received. I'm not sure this list is still operational. I picked it up from a RV web site. Let me know if you fine the working site. Hank Gallagher N47HG Austin, TX ----- Original Message ----- From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 7:59 AM Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 > --> RV6-List message posted by: GeoR38(at)aol.com > > Isn't there anyone on this list? > GeoR38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV-8.com-RL" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Apollo Stack
Date: Sep 03, 2000
> Have others using Apollo radios met this 1/4 inch gap requirement? Yes, and for two reasons: the faceplates overhang the cage by a bit, and the locking mechanism won't work unless you leave the proper gap. It really doesn't look bad once everything is in place. I know the image on their home page (www.upsat.com) doesn't show the space, but this likely is not an actual installation, just photographs stacked together. Randy Lervold RV-8, cowling www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Gascolator in RV-4
Scott, I hung my Andair gascolator on the mid/right side of the firewall using a 2x2.5 piece of angle. The fuel line exits the firewall per plans with a 45deg bulkhead fitting, alum. line to the gascolator, then firesleeved hose to the mech. fuel pump. I also put a .040 doubler plate behind the mounting angle (inside the firewall). The angle goes just under the first main cross piece of the motor mount and just over the 45deg cross piece, It does not attach anywhere to the motor mount itself, just the firewall. Two an4 drilled head bolts, saftey wired, hold the gascolator. The bottom drain on the gasc. is about 1/2 " from the bottom of the firewall. I also built a .025 alum shroud around it with a hole for a blast tube. Probably over kill and a lot of work, but very strong and easy to get to. In hindsight, though, I wonder if two in-line filters on the fuel lines just before the elec boost pump would be lighter, eaiser, and just as effective? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: Vaughn Mann <vlmann(at)highland.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00
Hey guys, I just signed up a few days ago and this is the first traffic I've seen.. maybe we are on the wrong list? Should we maybe do the following just in case they want the info before engaging us with he reg. list? Or is it that the list is dormant at this time? I don't know! I found this in the welcome e-mail sent a couple of days ago. I'll paste it in for you so you wont have to search for it. I checked the e-mail list with a "who" command and none of us three are on the list! Vaughn Mann 755GJ La Follette TN. Note that if your email address begins to cause problems with bounced email, mail box full, or any other errors, your address will be promptly removed from the list. If you discover that you are no longer receiving messages from the RV-List, perform the "who" command as described in step number 4 above, to check for your address. If it is missing, *and you are SURE that your email address is working correctly*, you should then resubscribe as detailed above in command number 1. ***************** *** Important *** ***************** If you havn't done so already, please send your phone numbers and paper mail address in the following format: smith(at)somehost.com Joe Smith 123 Airport Lane Tower, CA 91234-1234 098-765-1234 w 123-456-7890 h to the following email address: request(at)matronics.com (not "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com") I have a file of such things for all of the rv-list members, that I typically use to contact you when there are problems with your email address. >--> RV6-List message posted by: Hank Gallagher > >I signed up two weeks ago and yours is the first message I have received. >I'm not sure this list is still operational. I picked it up from a RV web >site. Let me know if you fine the working site. > >Hank Gallagher >N47HG >Austin, TX > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com> >To: ; >Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 7:59 AM >Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 > > >> --> RV6-List message posted by: GeoR38(at)aol.com >> >> Isn't there anyone on this list? >> GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00
it's working, Hank....jolly in aurora, or. Hank Gallagher wrote: > --> RV6-List message posted by: Hank Gallagher > > I signed up two weeks ago and yours is the first message I have received. > I'm not sure this list is still operational. I picked it up from a RV web > site. Let me know if you fine the working site. > > Hank Gallagher > N47HG > Austin, TX > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com> > To: ; > Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 7:59 AM > Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 > > > --> RV6-List message posted by: GeoR38(at)aol.com > > > > Isn't there anyone on this list? > > GeoR38 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: electrical question
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > >I have been looking at avionics and instruments available on E-Bay. I am >familiar with 14v and 28v. What is 115v 400hz 1 phase 13Va? It says that >you can use it with an inverter? Is this adaptable to a 14v system? Some of >the stuff looks nice and military quality. Any suggestions? > >Thanks, > >Ed Perry >RV-8QB >180hp/CS >Aluminum Gear 400 Hz instrumentation is relatively low power stuff. Gyros run on 20 VA or so, other instruments take less. It IS possible to use 14 VDC to 400 HzAC inverters but it adds weight and unless you install DUAL inverters, it puts all your 400 Hz eggs in one basket. As soon as I get the time, I'll see about a small inverter design for a single gyro. Two gyros, two inverters . . . they'll be relatively small too . . . about 6 cubic inches and weight less than a pound. We used to build dc to ac power supplies for a local instrument shop here in Wichita that had STC/PMA to adapt several common military gyros to TC aircraft . . that market dried up about 15 years ago and the inverter business tanked. There are better ways to do it now tho . . . so many ideas so little time. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . .
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" ><< Try a Amperite STOPALERT flasher. the web page is > ..http://www.amperite.com/stop.htm#Solving. Elect Bob was emailed a note > so we can get his advice on this product... Cost is around 18 dollars and > is the size of two match boxes bask-to-back >> > >The SSAC <http://www.ssac.com> P/N KRD3120B is a very robust potted unit, has >adjustable flash rate and slip on terminals. I recommend using it to control >separate lamp relays (the automotive 30A jobbies work well) for each >landing/taxi lamp if they are greater than 55W bulbs. The new diagram I posted last night is capable of handling up to 150W lamps and is less expensive yet . . . Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dwpeterson" <dwpeterson(at)gateway.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00
Date: Sep 03, 2000
I am, where are the hot RV6 sites? -----Original Message----- From: GeoR38(at)aol.com <GeoR38(at)aol.com> rv6-list-digest(at)matronics.com Date: Sunday, September 03, 2000 6:02 AM Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 >--> RV6-List message posted by: GeoR38(at)aol.com > >Isn't there anyone on this list? >GeoR38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Rear Rudder Pedals
> > >Having shelved the front rudder pedals for the weekend until I can badger >Scott, I moved to the Rear Rudder Pedals. > >Reviewing the plans, I see that they mention the F852A (Fwd Rudder Cable) >and the F852B (Rear Rudder Cable). I don't have a F852B, nor do the >instructions mention cutting the F852A into and attaching clevises to the >cut ends. > >An I missing something obvious, or am I simply missing some rudder cables? >Am I going to be Scott Risan's best buddy on Tuesday? > >Avoiding yard work for all I'm worth, > >Nick Knobil (80549) >Bowdoinham, Maine Nick, The rear rudder cable is the long one that goes from the cockpit area all the way back to the rudder. The front rudder cable is a short one that goes from the rudder pedals to the LG box area, where it connects up to the rear rudder cable (at the idler arm, if you have rear seat rudder pedals). You shouldn't have to cut any cables. I recall that my front rudder cables came with the stuff for the ground adjustable rudder pedal option. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit stuff) Ottawa, Canada http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin D. Patsey" <kdp1(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Will do! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hank Gallagher" <hank-g(at)swbell.net> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 10:06 AM Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 > --> RV6-List message posted by: Hank Gallagher > > I signed up two weeks ago and yours is the first message I have received. > I'm not sure this list is still operational. I picked it up from a RV web > site. Let me know if you fine the working site. > > Hank Gallagher > N47HG > Austin, TX > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com> > To: ; > Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 7:59 AM > Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 > > > > --> RV6-List message posted by: GeoR38(at)aol.com > > > > Isn't there anyone on this list? > > GeoR38 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Nosewheel pivot
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Have any of you studied just where the pivoting on the underside of the nosewheel fork occurs? Specifically, I can't seem to force the pivoting to occur between the large AN washer and the bronze bushing in the fork, where it should be. Instead, the AN washer, spring washers and castle nut all turn. The cotter pin prevents this from turning much, but clearly this is unacceptable, as I believe the cotter pin will eventually break from the back and forth beating. I have solvent cleaned all the grease off from the parts I don't want to pivot, including the threads, but to no avail. Even if that worked, the grease will eventually work its way down there. Anyone dare to go look at where their pivoting is happening? Or, am I just missing something? Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A O360, Airflow, CS may fly in '01 ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: RV-6 Seat Cushions
Hi, Do the typical seat cushions made for the RV-6 allow for fore and aft adjustment of the seat in the hinges? If so, is it a specific location? Are we stuck with one setting only. I saw the Orndorf seat cushions have a stick boot built in which made me wonder about being able to adjust the seats. Thanks, Glenn Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Subject: Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . .
Bob..I kind of got in late about this flasher..I was over to van's today and saw the taxi lites flashing in a wig-wag effect...nice...how's about sending me a scizmo so I could incorporate it into my RV8A I'm trying to pay for...jolly in aurora, or...thanks a bunch! "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote: > > ><< Try a Amperite STOPALERT flasher. the web page is > > ..http://www.amperite.com/stop.htm#Solving. Elect Bob was emailed a note > > so we can get his advice on this product... Cost is around 18 dollars and > > is the size of two match boxes bask-to-back >> > > > >The SSAC <http://www.ssac.com> P/N KRD3120B is a very robust potted unit, > has > >adjustable flash rate and slip on terminals. I recommend using it to > control > >separate lamp relays (the automotive 30A jobbies work well) for each > >landing/taxi lamp if they are greater than 55W bulbs. > > The new diagram I posted last night is capable of handling up to > 150W lamps and is less expensive yet . . . > > Bob . . . > -------------------------------------------- > ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) > ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) > ( and still understand nothing. ) > ( C.F. Kettering ) > -------------------------------------------- > http://www.aeroelectric.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 125 hr. obs.
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Hello All, Here's a few (long) comments I have about some things after blowing thru the 125 hr. mark in my -6. But first here's the equipment I have. New O-320-D1A w/ C/S prop from Van's w/ LASAR. Sliding canopy, RMI uMonitor, pretty basic panel. Empty wt. 1047#. First Flight 1/16/00. Homemade FG/Epoxy cooling plenum that follows the cowling shape & uses Van's stock cowling & inlets. FW mounted Niagra oil cooler w/ homemade FG/epoxy duct taking air from above #3 cyl. Cabin heat also taking air from low on #3 back baffle. 1. Guess what? I had high #3 CHT's. Oil cooler duct is 1 sq in. greater than 3" scat hose so I blocked off about 75% of the outlet, and 50% of the outlet to cabin heat muff (Robbins). This got the #3 cht down to 220 C in cruise but would get to my max. limit of 240 C in extended climb of this FL summer heat. Then I made a FG/epoxy duct for the oil cooler outlet to connect 2" scat to the cabin heat valve. Removed exhaust heat muff. Blocked off the opening on the baffle. Removed the plate blocking the cooler outlet. Now 3# CHT is 200 C in cruise, 230 C in extended climb. Pulled the cabin heat valve open and wife said that alot of hot air was blasting her leg and turn it off. So that works, too. Oil temp. in cruise is 96 C. Mod looks like a success. 2. Really like the RMI uMonitor and really appreciate the immediate support from Ron at the factory. Unfortunately, I have to use that support more that I want. Had a bad TC probe on one CHT and one EGT. Had LED go bad on one digit and sent the unit in for quick repair and no cost. Now this weekend another digit and a half have crapped out. Guess another next day air bill to get the unit repaired is in order. 3. The 40A B&C alternator chewed a 1" slit in my cowling. One of these years I'll fix it. I should have sent more effort getting a smaller belt on but after two attempts without success, I put on the belt that came from B&C. I just wanted to fly at that point in the project. (Still do!) 4. Be very carefull when closing the sliding canopy. I was rushed once & slid the canopy shut with the outside handle pointed forward. Put a little ding in my carbon rollover bar fairing. 5. I hate pipe threads. Had several leak. If they're tight, the fitting points in the wrong direction. So I've taken several components off (fuel transducer, carb inlet fitting, fuel valve), put them in a vise & tightened the fitting very tight. Then removed the fitting, put on more sealube & repeated until the fitting pointed in the right direction. Fitting very tight and not leaking any more. Now I have one oil fitting to the cooler that was leaking last week and I got a little turn on it so hope that one stops leaking too. Can't turn it any more cause it'd turn into the oil filter. I hate pipe threads. 6. Speaking of which, I also have a slight brake fluid leak on a plastic fitting going into the top of the rt cylinder. Can't tighten it cause it has to point the way it is. I'll just keep wiping it down occasionally. Can't notice the fluid level decreasing. Brakes work fine. 7. Waited too long to rotate one main tire. Had cord showing on the lft side at 80 hrs. Put on a new one & rotated the rt tire. I think on ave. my landings are better now than the first 80 hrs so maybe I can get 90 hrs before rotating. 8. Andair gascolator had more crap than expected at 100 hr cleaning. I did flush my tanks when new. Had al. chip, grass blade, paint fleck and other small stuff. Proved the filter worked well. Bet most this stuff got in while opening the cap for refueling. 9. Alumiprepped, alodined, AZKO primed inside/outside before riveting. Wet sanded w/ 400 grit just before painting w/ PPG Concept. Have couple rivet heads where top coat came off. These rivet heads where not primed, just wet sanded (well, I'm sure not all rivet heads where actually sanded.) 10. Alt. field wire @ B&C supplied connector on alt. failed. B&C then told me to crimp & solder. No problems since. My B&C instructions said to crimp only. 11. Had the fuse in my areoelectric fuse holder for the alternate buss loose contact or something. Fuse was in the slot but all alt buss items dead. Pulled the fuse out & reinstalled & then worked fine. 12. No problems with the bottom cowling hinges breaking. Had one back out half way once during flight. I now check them on preflight. 13. Had one adel clamp on the vetterman rear exhaust hangers break at about 75 hrs. No problems since. 14. Bottom of S-glass epoxy cowl is brown from the heat. I should have taken L. Vetterman's advice & put heat shield paint inside before oil got on it. I do have the redesigned exhaust for theis cowl. 15. The tailwheel clips supplied in the kit are flimsy. Ruined one when a gust spun the plane around & the non-full swivel tailwheel stretched the clip straight. Replaced it with a hardware store small chain splice clip. This has about twice the wire dia. than stock. No problems since. 16. Got 1 hr. spin training with a retire AF test pilot (Bill Plunck, my hangermate & -4 owner) Did many spins. Did one 3 turn spin and released all controls & recovered on its own after one more spin. BP had me do one turn spins and come out on a preselected heading. I tended to relax controls to neutral too soon & would come out of the spin after 3/4 to 7/8 turn. So today I 'chuted up & went up solo. Did a one turn spin, relaxed controls on heading, expecting it to come out immediately again. No, kept on spinning. Another 1/2 or so I stepped on opposite rudder and it recovered immediately. Lost about 700 ft, I think. This has been the only unexpected outcome the -6 has showed me. 17. The RV is just a fantastic airplane. Wish I had the talent to describe such a feeling it gives me in words. I take my wife to far off places for a weekend getaway. After walking around the tourist section of town wherever we are, she'll ask me want do I want to do next. I just have to make up some lie like go get some coffee, 'cause she just wouldn't understand what I really want to say. Hope some of this info is useful to someone. Rick Caldwell 129.8 hrs -6 Melbourne, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: Mike Fiedler <mrfiedler(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00
Hi! I've been kind of wondering myself.....no e mail since I signed up. Mike Fiedler 529 LM Montgomery, AL Vaughn Mann wrote: > --> RV6-List message posted by: Vaughn Mann > > Hey guys, > I just signed up a few days ago and this is the first traffic I've seen.. > maybe we are on the wrong list? Should we maybe do the following just in > case they want the info before engaging us with he reg. list? Or is it > that the list is dormant at this time? I don't know! I found this in the > welcome e-mail sent a couple of days ago. I'll paste it in for you so you > wont have to search for it. I checked the e-mail list with a "who" command > and none of us three are on the list! > > Vaughn Mann > 755GJ > La Follette TN. > > Note that if your email address begins to cause problems with bounced > email, mail box full, or any other errors, your address will be promptly > removed from the list. If you discover that you are no longer receiving > messages from the RV-List, perform the "who" command as described in > step number 4 above, to check for your address. If it is missing, *and > you are SURE that your email address is working correctly*, you should then > resubscribe as detailed above in command number 1. > > ***************** > *** Important *** > ***************** > > If you havn't done so already, please send your phone numbers and paper mail > address in the following format: > > smith(at)somehost.com > Joe Smith > 123 Airport Lane > Tower, CA 91234-1234 > 098-765-1234 w > 123-456-7890 h > > to the following email address: > request(at)matronics.com (not "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com") > I have a file of such things for all of the rv-list members, that I typically > use to contact you when there are problems with your email address. > > >--> RV6-List message posted by: Hank Gallagher > > > >I signed up two weeks ago and yours is the first message I have received. > >I'm not sure this list is still operational. I picked it up from a RV web > >site. Let me know if you fine the working site. > > > >Hank Gallagher > >N47HG > >Austin, TX > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com> > >To: ; > >Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 7:59 AM > >Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 > > > > > >> --> RV6-List message posted by: GeoR38(at)aol.com > >> > >> Isn't there anyone on this list? > >> GeoR38 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Subject: Re: 125 hr. obs.
In a message dated 9/3/00 4:37:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, racaldwell(at)hotmail.com writes: << 14. Bottom of S-glass epoxy cowl is brown from the heat. I should have taken L. Vetterman's advice & put heat shield paint inside before oil got on it. I do have the redesigned exhaust for theis cowl. >> Heat shield paint? Never heard of it. Where do I find some? Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth Rain, rain, go away, I'll never make it by Labor Day... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM
Date: Sep 03, 2000
Subject: Re: RV-6 Seat Cushions
In a message dated 9/3/00 4:21:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes: << Do the typical seat cushions made for the RV-6 allow for fore and aft adjustment of the seat in the hinges? If so, is it a specific location? Are we stuck with one setting only. I saw the Orndorf seat cushions have a stick boot built in which made me wonder about being able to adjust the seats. >> On my installation (DJ's seats from Cleaveland), the boots attach to the seat pans, and this allows the seat to be set at any position. Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com>
Subject: Sprayers?
"Charles L. Cotton" I am setting up my shop and plan to order an RV-9A empennage kit shortly. I've watched the Orndorff video on the pre-punched empennage kit, and would like opinions about what to use for spraying primer. I'm convinced I want an HVLP rig to paint the plane when its finished. There are few body shops around that will rent their paint booths and I plan to take them up on their "offers." However, I obviously need to do the primer at home and I would like opinions as to whether I should buy the HVLP now and use it for the primer. Is there any reason why the HVLP rig should not be used for primer? Thanks, Chas. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: paul.gervais(at)gov.ab.ca
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00
Date: Sep 03, 2000
05:59:17 PM I've been getting "0 Msgs" every day cluttering up my email, and no activity on the RV6 list. If anyone finds out why, let me know. Thanks Paul Gervais Mike Fiedler on 09/03/2000 05:17:38 PM Please respond to rv6-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Mike Fiedler Subject: Re: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 --> RV6-List message posted by: Mike Fiedler Hi! I've been kind of wondering myself.....no e mail since I signed up. Mike Fiedler 529 LM Montgomery, AL Vaughn Mann wrote: > --> RV6-List message posted by: Vaughn Mann > > Hey guys, > I just signed up a few days ago and this is the first traffic I've seen.. > maybe we are on the wrong list? Should we maybe do the following just in > case they want the info before engaging us with he reg. list? Or is it > that the list is dormant at this time? I don't know! I found this in the > welcome e-mail sent a couple of days ago. I'll paste it in for you so you > wont have to search for it. I checked the e-mail list with a "who" command > and none of us three are on the list! > > Vaughn Mann > 755GJ > La Follette TN. > > Note that if your email address begins to cause problems with bounced > email, mail box full, or any other errors, your address will be promptly > removed from the list. If you discover that you are no longer receiving > messages from the RV-List, perform the "who" command as described in > step number 4 above, to check for your address. If it is missing, *and > you are SURE that your email address is working correctly*, you should then > resubscribe as detailed above in command number 1. > > ***************** > *** Important *** > ***************** > > If you havn't done so already, please send your phone numbers and paper mail > address in the following format: > > smith(at)somehost.com > Joe Smith > 123 Airport Lane > Tower, CA 91234-1234 > 098-765-1234 w > 123-456-7890 h > > to the following email address: > request(at)matronics.com (not "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com") > I have a file of such things for all of the rv-list members, that I typically > use to contact you when there are problems with your email address. > > >--> RV6-List message posted by: Hank Gallagher > > > >I signed up two weeks ago and yours is the first message I have received. > >I'm not sure this list is still operational. I picked it up from a RV web > >site. Let me know if you fine the working site. > > > >Hank Gallagher > >N47HG > >Austin, TX > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com> > >To: ; > >Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 7:59 AM > >Subject: RV6-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/02/00 > > > > > >> --> RV6-List message posted by: GeoR38(at)aol.com > >> > >> Isn't there anyone on this list? > >> GeoR38 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2000
From: Buster Arrington <bustera(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: (no subject)
who ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Seat Cushions
Date: Sep 03, 2000
I have the Orndorf seats and they do have enough clearance at all positions. They are of very high quality also. 112rs rv-6a ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 10:24 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Seat Cushions > > > Hi, >


August 29, 2000 - September 03, 2000

RV-Archive.digest.vol-je