RV-Archive.digest.vol-jf
September 03, 2000 - September 10, 2000
> Do the typical seat cushions made for the RV-6 allow for fore and aft
> adjustment of the seat in the hinges? If so, is it a specific
> location? Are we stuck with one setting only. I saw the Orndorf
> seat cushions have a stick boot built in which made me wonder about
> being able to adjust the seats.
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close? |
I searched the archive to no avail for this except that it's not pleasant.
I'm currently waiting for my wings and though I'd do the fiberglass work.
The manual doen't explain this in detail. I.e. what type of resin do I use?
Should I use glass cloth? If I use foam - what type of foam?
I'm sure at least one of the RV builders explains this in detail on a web
site.
Any ideas?
As always - thanks for the great support on the list.
Are Barstad
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator in RV-4 |
| From: | "Ronald Vandervort" <ronvandervort(at)earthlink.net> |
"Ronald Vandervort"
I put one in each wing root on my RV-6. It was a slick installation. Works
great.
Ron
Vandervort, RV-6 370 hrs in 1 year and 10 months, Seattle area
----------
>From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
>To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
>Subject: RV-List: Gascolator in RV-4
>Date: SatSUNSep,05,228,2000200028,9:28 AM
>
>
> I already asked another lister this question but I'd like to hear as many
> opinions on this as I can. I'm just starting on installing the fuel system
> in the cockpit of my RV-4 and I find myself thinking about things like
> firewall penetrations and gascolator locations. I'm just wondering if some
> of the RV-4 builders who used gascolators can tell me where on the firewall
> the put the dang thing? Thanks for anything you can tell me.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)okanagan.net> |
Hello Charles,
I have used my HVLP gun from the start with no regrets.
Just be careful about cleaning the gun and it won't shoot you in the foot.
A small air brush for touch ups, scratches, rivet heads, etc. saves a lot of
paint and clean up time.
jim in Kelowna - finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles L. Cotton <charles(at)cottonfamily.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 4:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sprayers?
>
> I am setting up my shop and plan to order an RV-9A empennage kit
> shortly. I've watched the Orndorff video on the pre-punched empennage
kit,
> and would like opinions about what to use for spraying primer. I'm
> convinced I want an HVLP rig to paint the plane when its finished. There
> are few body shops around that will rent their paint booths and I plan to
> take them up on their "offers." However, I obviously need to do the
primer
> at home and I would like opinions as to whether I should buy the HVLP now
> and use it for the primer. Is there any reason why the HVLP rig should
not
> be used for primer?
>
> Thanks,
> Chas.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Web Site updates |
For those getting ready to build their spars, I've just completed my rear
wing spars and updated my web site. I also went to Marion, IN this weekend
for a nice flyin and have a couple of pictures of an interesting RV-8.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close? |
Are,
There are many ways to do this...this is what I did.
1. I cut a small piece of balsa to fit the ends of the tips and glued
them in with a small bit of RTV leaving about 1/8in to fill in. I used 1/4in
thick balsa from the hobby store.
2. I filled the recessed area in with microballoons. I used the west
systems epoxy that aircraft spruce sells in their catalog. I think they sell
the microballoons as "glass bubbles". Just mix per the instructions and you
get a nice past that you can mold in the recess....let dry and sand....then
prime and you are done....works great!!!!
Kurt, OKC, OK
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
Hi Chas,
On Sun, 3 Sep 2000, Charles L. Cotton wrote:
>
> I am setting up my shop and plan to order an RV-9A empennage kit
> shortly. I've watched the Orndorff video on the pre-punched empennage kit,
> and would like opinions about what to use for spraying primer. I'm
> convinced I want an HVLP rig to paint the plane when its finished. There
> are few body shops around that will rent their paint booths and I plan to
> take them up on their "offers." However, I obviously need to do the primer
> at home and I would like opinions as to whether I should buy the HVLP now
> and use it for the primer. Is there any reason why the HVLP rig should not
> be used for primer?
There is some advice on this in the archives. Here's some advice from
one of the RV-list's most ignorant members:
First, remember that there are just two parts of the plane that need to be
primed: the inside, and the outside. The inside is generally done while
you're building; the outside is done when the plane is finished and ready
for painting. The inside primer can be a variety of things; the outside
primer needs to match the paint to be applied.
A number of people have had success using the Harbor Frieght $50 HVLP
gravity-feed nifty knick-knack doo-wop green gun. When I started out I
figured that at my (nonexistant) skill level all guns were about the same,
and bought a modestly-priced Harbor Freight "industrial" HVLP unit (around
$50, not the same model). Bzzzzzzzz. It does a stunningly poor job. So
I asked around and, taking the advice of a list member, went down to my
paint supplier and bought a Sharpe Cobalt for around $150. It is a very
nice gun, high quality and a pleasure to use, and I expect it to last more
or less forever -- I am extremely satisfied.
Which brings me to the most important point regarding tools: there's no
substitue for high quality tools. As someone on the list one said: when
you buy expensive tools you only have to cry once. When I started out I
thought I could get by using certain cheapie tools. Although I was
entirely correct in that I could get by, I have since replaced all of
those tools with decent quality ones. I'm still as cheap as ever, and
don't (usually) salivate uncontrollably onto tool store displays (cleanup
in aisle 6!) and catalogs, but I _always_ buy high quality tools now.
Besides, I want my grandchildren to gaze with fear and awe upon holding
one of my tools, saying "Boy, they sure used to make good tools back in
those days!" :)
Back to primer -- I also bought several spray-cans of self-etching primer.
The rattle cans are far more convenient for doing small numbers of parts
and touch-ups. When my wing kit arrives, I think I'll just mark part
numbers and prime everything on day one.
And there you have it: another fresh, steaming pile of free advice!
-S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator in RV-6 |
Ron
Do you have a sketch on how you set up gascolator in each wing
root????? I will be at that stage in about 2 months ......I hope..
I have always liked that idea.Seems like the best way to go
Thanks
John McMahon
Gallatin,Tn
We will Have a RV fly in Oct 7th
in lebanon,tn (M54)
Ronald Vandervort wrote:
>
> I put one in each wing root on my RV-6. It was a slick installation. Works
> great.
>
> Ron
> Vandervort, RV-6 370 hrs in 1 year and 10 months, Seattle area
>
> ----------
> >From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
> >To: "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'"
> >Subject: RV-List: Gascolator in RV-4
> >Date: SatSUNSep,05,228,2000200028,9:28 AM
> >
>
> >
> > I already asked another lister this question but I'd like to hear as many
> > opinions on this as I can. I'm just starting on installing the fuel system
> > in the cockpit of my RV-4 and I find myself thinking about things like
> > firewall penetrations and gascolator locations. I'm just wondering if some
> > of the RV-4 builders who used gascolators can tell me where on the firewall
> > the put the dang thing? Thanks for anything you can tell me.
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Another reason for the gap is the screws holding the backplate (connector
holder) to the tube. On the UPSAT equipment the screws on the top and bottom
are offset so the heads don't hit each other in the stack, but you still
need almost 1/8 inch gap for the screw heads alone. I used some 1/8 bar
stock pieces between the tubes to maintain the gap while I mounted them. The
locking mechanism on the GX series is on top while the SL series is on the
bottom, except the audio panel which uses a nutplate on the back of the
case. I ordered my stack as: SL15(PMA7000), GX65, SL30, SL70, stereo.
Mounting the GX above the SL avoids needing a larger gap for the locks to
clear.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
> Have others using Apollo radios met this 1/4 inch gap requirement?
Yes, and for two reasons: the faceplates overhang the cage by a bit, and the
locking mechanism won't work unless you leave the proper gap. It really
doesn't look bad once everything is in place. I know the image on their home
page (www.upsat.com) doesn't show the space, but this likely is not an
actual installation, just photographs stacked together.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SL15/PMA7000 Cell phone interface |
I got the cell phone interface hooked up on my SL15 audio panel and it's
really slick. Just turn the knob to "Telephone" and it works just like, and
just as well as, my hands-free headset for the car - except thru my aircraft
headset/mic... way cool! Of course I'll only use it while on the ground:)
Here's the particulars. I happen to have a Nokia 6160 cell phone but this
should work for any phone that accepts a standard hands-free headset with a
sub-mini (3/32) plug. My phone needs a small adapter that has the sub-mini
jack. The selection of sub-mini jacks and plugs was pretty limited at my
local R/S, plus I needed a jack with enough mounting depth to go thru my
.090 panel. So, I elected to use an 1/8" jack and patch cord with a 1/8 to
3/32 adapter to the phone, all of them 3-conductor. On the SL15 pinouts the
wire from connector "N" Cell Tip goes to the tip on the jack. The wire from
connector "14" Cell Ring goes to the middle conductor of the jack. The
shield should connect to the ground on the jack AND to the tip. Grounding
the tip is the only difference from the diagram shown for the Air Cell
installation - but it doesn't work without it. I had to reverse engineer
(disassemble) my new car headset to figure it out.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) wiring & systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: B & C Specialty Web Site? |
Jim,
Here is the webaddress for B & C Specialty Alternators and other bits
and pieces. I know they are a bit more expensive however I believe they
are of fine quality.
Doug
>
> http://www.BandCspecialty.com
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Seat Cushions |
Glenn,
Good question about seat cushions. In the -6 and -6A, the forward hinge
position is very seldom used as it puts the person too close to the stick for
good stick movement. We build our seats for the middle hinge position. They
will also work for the rear hinge position as the seat back cushion will
cover the gap at the rear of the bottom cushion. Most people very seldom
change the hinge position once they decide what is comfortable for them.
We have also found the boot built into the seat helps seal out the air
that comes in from the wings under the floor and tidies up the spar area so
it will not show. Also, keeping the front of the seat in a set position
maintains a comfortable angle of the seat bottom and supports the foam in the
cushions best so it will not wear prematurely. We will work with you to
build seats to accomodate you and your passengers.
Hope this helps.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 125 hr. obs. |
Great Post, thanks Rick. Good stuff to watch for when assembling planes
that are following.
Marty in Brentwood TN
do no archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 3:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: 125 hr. obs.
>
> Hello All,
>
> Here's a few (long) comments I have about some things after blowing thru
the
> 125 hr. mark in my -6. But first here's the equipment I have. New
> O-320-D1A w/ C/S prop from Van's w/ LASAR. Sliding canopy, RMI uMonitor,
> pretty basic panel. Empty wt. 1047#. First Flight 1/16/00. Homemade
> FG/Epoxy cooling plenum that follows the cowling shape & uses Van's stock
> cowling & inlets. FW mounted Niagra oil cooler w/ homemade FG/epoxy duct
> taking air from above #3 cyl. Cabin heat also taking air from low on #3
> back baffle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Piano Hinge & S cowl |
Can anyone tell me if the same kind of piano hinge is used all the way around
the cowl where the cowl is attached to the firewall?
Per the plans it looks like this is the case but when adding up the dimensions
I
get 82 inches of hinge needed and I was only shipped six feet or 72 inches with
the finish kit.
Thanks,
Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 ( sensenich )
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Twin Cities Rv Picnic |
Fellow Listers:
Please make note of our upcoming Twin Cities RV Picnic. Here's the details:
Saturday, September 9, 2000
Serving at 1 pm
Sky Harbor Airpark, Webster, MN
N 44 31.7, W 93 19.5 - 218 deg radial, 9.0 nm from Farmington VOR (115.7)
We started this tradition in 1990 and we continue for 2000 with our annual
RV picnic and pig roast!!!!! Again our hosts will be Hank and Janice
Geissler and the neighbors at Sky Harbor Airpark. Larry Winn and Dan Flander
will again be hard at work from the wee hours roasting their trademark slow
roasted pork. Bring the family for a day of relaxing, good food, and of
course, lots of RVs and RV folk.
Please bring a dessert or salad to pass around. Liquid refreshments will be
on hand and a suggested donation of $5 a head will cover the pork, pop, and
port-a-potty. Eatin' starts at 1 pm with door prizes at 2 pm prizes!!
All flying RVs are especially invited (Spam cans too). Please contact us and
monitor 122.9 for traffic and parking. We will have flagmen on duty
coordinating parking so keep an eye out please and use caution.
FLY SAFE and have a great time!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close? |
Hi Are,
I like to use fiberglass so the materials match. Some guys use balsa or
foam. Here's the fiberglass method:
1) Lay up about 7 layers of glass on a piece of wax paper - maybe a 12"
square. Let cure.
2) Hold it up to the stab/elevator tip and trace the outline.
3) Cut it out and epoxy it in place.
4) Use some resin and chopped fiber for fillets.
5) Use resin and micro balloons where you want to sand it nice and round.
Sounds harder than it is,
- Bill in Tucson
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Date: Sunday, September 03, 2000 6:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close?
>
>I searched the archive to no avail for this except that it's not pleasant.
>
>I'm currently waiting for my wings and though I'd do the fiberglass work.
>The manual doen't explain this in detail. I.e. what type of resin do I use?
>Should I use glass cloth? If I use foam - what type of foam?
>
>I'm sure at least one of the RV builders explains this in detail on a web
>site.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>As always - thanks for the great support on the list.
>
>Are Barstad
>RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
"Are Barstad"
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close? |
No wonder you guys don't like fiber glass. 7 layers is too much. If you
need some rigidity, use a soda straw in between the layers as a rib to make
it less flexible without the weight.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close?
>
> Hi Are,
>
> I like to use fiberglass so the materials match. Some guys use balsa or
> foam. Here's the fiberglass method:
>
> 1) Lay up about 7 layers of glass on a piece of wax paper - maybe a 12"
> square. Let cure.
> 2) Hold it up to the stab/elevator tip and trace the outline.
> 3) Cut it out and epoxy it in place.
> 4) Use some resin and chopped fiber for fillets.
> 5) Use resin and micro balloons where you want to sand it nice and round.
>
> Sounds harder than it is,
>
> - Bill in Tucson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, September 03, 2000 6:26 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close?
>
>
> >
> >I searched the archive to no avail for this except that it's not
pleasant.
> >
> >I'm currently waiting for my wings and though I'd do the fiberglass work.
> >The manual doen't explain this in detail. I.e. what type of resin do I
use?
> >Should I use glass cloth? If I use foam - what type of foam?
> >
> >I'm sure at least one of the RV builders explains this in detail on a web
> >site.
> >
> >Any ideas?
> >
> >As always - thanks for the great support on the list.
> >
> >Are Barstad
> >RV-8
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close? |
Hi Cy,
The 7 layers matches the thickness of Van's tips - that's the reason I do
it. You lay them up all at once - don't let each layer cure before adding
the next. Takes about two minutes to do the layup.
- Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
; Are Barstad
Date: Monday, September 04, 2000 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close?
>No wonder you guys don't like fiber glass. 7 layers is too much. If you
>need some rigidity, use a soda straw in between the layers as a rib to make
>it less flexible without the weight.
>
>
>Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
>(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
>To: ; "Are Barstad"
>Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 10:33 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close?
>
>
>>
>> Hi Are,
>>
>> I like to use fiberglass so the materials match. Some guys use balsa or
>> foam. Here's the fiberglass method:
>>
>> 1) Lay up about 7 layers of glass on a piece of wax paper - maybe a 12"
>> square. Let cure.
>> 2) Hold it up to the stab/elevator tip and trace the outline.
>> 3) Cut it out and epoxy it in place.
>> 4) Use some resin and chopped fiber for fillets.
>> 5) Use resin and micro balloons where you want to sand it nice and
round.
>>
>> Sounds harder than it is,
>>
>> - Bill in Tucson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Sunday, September 03, 2000 6:26 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: Empennage fiberglass tips - how to close?
>>
>>
>> >
>> >I searched the archive to no avail for this except that it's not
>pleasant.
>> >
>> >I'm currently waiting for my wings and though I'd do the fiberglass
work.
>> >The manual doen't explain this in detail. I.e. what type of resin do I
>use?
>> >Should I use glass cloth? If I use foam - what type of foam?
>> >
>> >I'm sure at least one of the RV builders explains this in detail on a
web
>> >site.
>> >
>> >Any ideas?
>> >
>> >As always - thanks for the great support on the list.
>> >
>> >Are Barstad
>> >RV-8
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: to torroid or not to torrid, that IS the question . . . |
<004501c01433$fd7402a0$2d11dcd8@montanapc>
<4.3.2.7.0.20000902215147.00b52cf0(at)popd.ix.netcom.com>
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Hmmm! I have been doing business with RST for over ten years and never
>been treated rudely. I can imagine that he doesn't have a soft spot in his
>heart for Bob Archer, who openly denigrates RST's designs over the internet
>and in print. I have personally tested RST's designs with some antenna
>testing equipment that is about 25% of the price of my kit, and it performs
>quite fabulously. Whether it would perform just as well without the
>toroids, as Bob Archer would lead one to believe, I do not know, because I
>did not test the system that way.
I've tested the coaxial feedline (unbalanced) tied directly
to a dipole (balanced) antenna using a half dozen VHF rated
torroids for the hopeful purpose of reducing the effects
of so poor a match between antenna and feedline.
The net results for having added a few torroids was barely
detectable with some pretty sophisticated test equipment.
Only after we added about two dozen more torroids, did the
sum total of their effects become significant. Bob Archer's
poor customer relations notwithstanding, he is technically
accurate in the assessment that the torroids don't help
enough to make them worthwhile. While they don't help, they
don't hurt either. We've got a stocking order in for foil
tape and we'll be offering materials for embedded antenna
fabrication from our website catalog. We'll NOT be offering
the torroids as part of the kit.
There are coaxial transformers called "baluns" that will
do a nice job of transfering energy from balanced antennas
to unbalance feedlines . . . the net effect of these devices
is so small as to generate the question, "does the increase
in performance warrant the increase in complexity combined
with a potential decrease in reliability?" Based on my
observations of tens of thousands of Cessnas flying around
sans baluns and torroids with VACUUM tube receivers . . .
I'll suggest the answer is no.
Actually, you don't even need the copper foil. If you remove
the outer insulation from a piece of coax for about 30", pull
the center conductor out through the side of the braid as
shown in
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
Take shield one direction and center lead the other direction
to make a dipole antenna. Use antenna analyzer to trim each
side of antenna until lowest SWR happens in center of frequency
range of interest. Glass this hummer in and you're done. No
solder joints. Being a fine wire antenna, this technique will
not be as broad-band in its SWR characteristics as an antenna
made from foil . . . but it will still perform quite nicely
for listenting to a VOR station 50 miles away from 5,000 feet
AGL.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
| Subject: | Help on Front Spar on RV6 HS |
I need some advice on the front HS spar on the RV-6. I marked and drilled
my HS-405's as per the typical rib spar detail section on drg 3pp. when I
back drilled the HS-602 and the HS-610, the hole was off center to the
inside of the HS-610's centerline by about 3/32 this makes it closer than
1/4 inch to the inside edge of the HS-610. What do I do now? Buy more
602s,610, and 405s? Or just rivet the thing on there and forget it?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Brian Chesteen
Rv-6 Emp
name="Brian Chesteen.vcf"
filename="Brian Chesteen.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Chesteen;Brian;;Mr.
FN:Brian Chesteen
ORG:Brantel Company LLC
TITLE:President
TEL;WORK;VOICE:(423)231-7142
TEL;HOME;VOICE:(423)623-9888
TEL;CELL;VOICE:(423)231-7142
TEL;PAGER;VOICE:(423)231-7142
TEL;WORK;FAX:(423)623-5887
TEL;HOME;FAX:(423)623-5887
ADR;WORK:;;1228 Petunia Road;Newport;Tennessee;37821;USA
Road0D0ANewport, Tennessee 378210D0AUSA
ADR;HOME:;;1228 Petunia Road;Newport;Tennessee;37821;USA
Road0D0ANewport, Tennessee 378210D0AUSA
URL:http://www.planetc.com/users/brantel
URL:http://www.planetc.com/users/brantel
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:chesteen(at)morristownelectric.com
REV:20000904T171516Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 125 hr. obs. |
Good report Rick. Thanks a lot.
Garry, "6" motivated for more finishing.
Rick Caldwell wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> Here's a few (long) comments I have about some things after blowing thru the
> 125 hr. mark in my -6.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Mid Eastern Regional Fly-In |
Just a reminder that MERFI = Mid Eastern Regional Fly-In in Marion, Ohio
is scheduled for Saturday and Sunday September 9th and 10th. Forums will
be from 9 AM to 12:30 PM. It would be really nice to see a lot of RV's
there again this year. I will arrive on Friday morning to help set up and
I'll be camping on site for the duration. I'm looking forward to seeing
some of you there. AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | New! Oregon Aero Seats by Knight Upholstery |
RV Builders:
Knight Aircraft Upholstery has added Oregon Aero seat cushions to its
regular line of upholstery products for all RV models. The Oregon Aero
seats are covered in your choice of colors and fabrics. Oregon Aero seats
are made from a space-age material which molds to the body, is fluid yet
firm, energy-absorbing and temperature and rate sensitive. Call or e-mail
for pricing and information.
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e- mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 F-805EPP |
I had to make em.
I spent the better part of three hours ( hard to believe but there are a lot of
places in my garage that I could have misplaced them ) looking for them only to
find out that they were in fact not shipped with my quick build kit. No big
deal though. It took me about thirty minutes to whip two out. 063 aluminum
with a 5/8s snap bushing hole with the unibit and just take the dimensions off
of the plans with a scale. I think it's half scale on the drawing if my memory
serves me right.
Keep building,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 ( sensenich )
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Homecoming weather/N94BD paint update |
>
> Well, the Northwet weather looks like it will be true to its name
>this weekend.
> This from the extended weather forecast:
>
>"Saturday and Sunday...showers. A chance of afternoon thunderstorms. Lows
>near
>50. Highs 65 to 70".
>
>YUCK!
>
Indeed!
Well folks, my freshly painted RV8, with it's valued cargo (myself and my
wife) did not make it to the Northwetlands. We got as far as Merced, hit a
wall of low cloud and rain, and decided to land for the night and see what
happened the following morning. (Saturday). It still looked dark and dreary
to the north so we engaged plan "B"...fly into the clearing skies to the
southeast to Vegas baby!
So, our homecoming-show-off-the-new-paintjob trip turned into a honeymoon in
Vegas. We had a great time, the plane is BEAUTIFUL, and we'll try for the
homecoming again next year. Next planned major fly-in for us is Copperstate,
and the local New Mexico fly-ins of course.
I'll be posting paintjob pics on my webpage this week and will update the
list when I do so. It is unusual (no white base color), and has a new Lexus
look to it....kinda.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
123 hours....about six on the paint!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | removing pro-seal. |
Ok, let me tell the whole sob story. Built my first fuel tank, manged
to get a twist in it so it won't go back on the wing (at least the second
turned out ok). Conferred with Van's about how to fix it, they suggessted
to remove the back baffle and replace it with a new one, drilled to the
skin, while it was screwed to the spar. Seemed like a good idea to me, so
drilled out all the rivits holding the back baffle on, but can't get the
thing loose from the ribs. Was able to force it loose from the end ribs
and skin by using a rubber mallet to drive a knife blade between the
parts, but the sealant is glueing the baffle to the inner ribs, can' reach
them to go at it with the mallet. Already bent the old baffle trying to
pry it off. Starting to seem like the rivits are a bit redundant in
holding this thing together.
Do you guys have any idea's? If it comes to just building a whole new
tank, I think I will just pay somebody. I've had that experience now.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
RV-8 80098 Fiddling with fuel tanks.
1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LP3-4 rivets |
>
>Can anyone tell me what the "LP" stands for in the LP4-3 rivets? I'm
>trying to
>cross the LP4-3 rivets that Van's includes in his kit to a comparable rivet
>that
>Aircraft Spruce sells.
>
I had to buy some LP and CS type rivets at the Spruce store while I was in
Corona just last week! How ironic. The cross reference is for AVEX rivets.
Check the catalog. The CS rivets they got for me look exactly like the
CS4-4's in the kit. The LP's are AVEX "lo-po" types, meaning low profile
head. That must be the meaning of the "LP".
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: removing pro-seal. |
Hi Brian, I would use a small cutting wheel in a die grinder to cut away the
old baffle or at least cut enough holes into it to get at the ribs with a pry
bar. At least its good to know that pro seal works so good isnt it?
Kevin
-9 playing with fiberglass and paint
while waiting for fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Bob..I kind of got in late about this flasher..I was over to van's today
and saw the
>taxi lites flashing in a wig-wag effect...nice...how's about sending me a
scizmo so I
>could incorporate it into my RV8A I'm trying to pay for...jolly in aurora,
or...thanks a
>bunch!
>
See top three items on http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: removing pro-seal. |
I used a heat gun on the area and the parts just flew apart
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 11:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: removing pro-seal.
>
>
> Ok, let me tell the whole sob story. Built my first fuel tank, manged
> to get a twist in it so it won't go back on the wing (at least the second
> turned out ok). Conferred with Van's about how to fix it, they suggessted
> to remove the back baffle and replace it with a new one, drilled to the
> skin, while it was screwed to the spar. Seemed like a good idea to me, so
> drilled out all the rivits holding the back baffle on, but can't get the
> thing loose from the ribs. Was able to force it loose from the end ribs
> and skin by using a rubber mallet to drive a knife blade between the
> parts, but the sealant is glueing the baffle to the inner ribs, can' reach
> them to go at it with the mallet. Already bent the old baffle trying to
> pry it off. Starting to seem like the rivits are a bit redundant in
> holding this thing together.
>
> Do you guys have any idea's? If it comes to just building a whole new
> tank, I think I will just pay somebody. I've had that experience now.
>
>
> Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> President and Founder Friends of P-Chan
> RV-8 80098 Fiddling with fuel tanks.
> 1/5 Starduster II N23UT flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: induction tube wrapping
Thread-Index: AcAXYoBiwq6mSawwSs6xKK64HeQubQ=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
| Subject: | induction tube wrapping |
Listers,
Last night I was checking out some Grumman Yankee sites to see what some
of those guys were doing to increase speeds...one of the things I saw
that caught my eye were induction tubes wrapped with insulation. Can
anyone speculate if it can make a difference in manifold pressure? I
would think the increase in power would be negligible, but.......
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 33 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 125 hr. obs. |
I noticed the inside of my S-type cowl turning brown from the exhaust pipe
heat after just a couple of hours. I cleaned the area as well as I could of
greas and grime and then stuck aluminum tape to the inside of the cowl as a
heat reflector. Seems to work well. The plane is painted now and shows no
heat scars on the outside. The tape can be found at most hardware stores and
is used in heating and A/C ducting.
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - 90hrs.
>
> Real good update for us. Now where do I get the paint for the cowling?
>
>
> >
> > 14. Bottom of S-glass epoxy cowl is brown from the heat. I should
> > have
> > taken L. Vetterman's advice & put heat shield paint inside before
> > oil got on
> > it. I do have the redesigned exhaust for theis cowl.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: induction tube wrapping |
--- Bob Japundza wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Last night I was checking out some Grumman Yankee
> sites to see what some
> of those guys were doing to increase speeds...one of
> the things I saw
> that caught my eye were induction tubes wrapped with
> insulation. Can
> anyone speculate if it can make a difference in
> manifold pressure? I
> would think the increase in power would be
> negligible, but.......
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 33 hours
Bob:
Lycoming publishes some of this info in their power
charts. I remember that as induction air temperature
lowers each 10 degrees F, there is a 1% increase in
power. They are talking about inlet air temperature
to the carb / injector. IMHO, if you lower the inlet
that much, you will also lower the temperature of the
fuel/air charge entering the engine. If you do not
lower the inlet temperature and instead decrease the
amount of heat that the fuel/air charge picks up in
the induction system, I would believe that you would
raise the power the same amount. IMHO, I do not
believe that you will lower the temperature enough to
make any difference. I have heard of people who make
cold air induction systems for Lycoming engines that
claim to increase power by 8%. I find it hard to
believe that there is an 80 degree temperature rise
through the oil sum and induction pipes.
I do not know who makes the induction system. They
were at Oshkosh 1992. If you find out more info,
please post to the list.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
650+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
"I never knew what real happiness was until I got married; and then it was too
late..." - Jack Handey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | Re: induction tube wrapping |
Bob-
At the LPE Zehrbach Engines Oshkosh forum "Reducing cooling drag", a lot
of time was devoted to the importance of maintaining thermal efficency
within the cowling by preventing heat exchange between the exhaust and
intake tubes via the air in the cowling. The primary method outlined
was to ceramic coat (with a light color) the exhaust pipes (60% surface
temp reduction) to reduce heating and therefore expanding the air
passing through- this reduces the volume of air exiting the cowling.
Using a similar coating (or even light colored paint) on the intake
tubes reduces heating of the air/fuel mix entering the cylinders. It
was emphasized that the coatings were a "heat reflector" and not an
"insulator", but by wrapping the intake tubes I'd suppose a similar
effect. Zehrbach went on to outline their additional mods to keep
combustion heat within the cylinder heads such as more ceramics on the
piston crown and valve faces, etc. Most of these techniques were well
presented, seemed to be backed up by extensive testing in the lab and in
the air, and are apparently embraced by a growing group of Lanciar
folks. Could not locate a Zehrbach website, but found several
references to the company on the Lancair list (NOT A SUBSCRIBER!! - just
searching!)
Might be something worth furthur investigation...
From the PossumWorks
Mark -6A, getting back to work on wings REAL soon!
Bob Japundza wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Last night I was checking out some Grumman Yankee sites to see what some
> of those guys were doing to increase speeds...one of the things I saw
> that caught my eye were induction tubes wrapped with insulation. Can
> anyone speculate if it can make a difference in manifold pressure? I
> would think the increase in power would be negligible, but.......
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 33 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
| Subject: | removing pro-seal. |
Brian,
Use a cutter on a die grinder to cut the baffle each side of the ribs. then
you have plenty of accessibility for a very sharp and thin blade to assist
in separation, use a cutting motion upwards. Liberal use of MEK will help
also.
Have Fun !! Above all Don't Panic !!
David Roseblade
RV6A Wings
UAE. Persian gulf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piano Hinge & S cowl |
Jim,
Around the cowling to fuselage attaching point you will use two different
types/sizes of hinge there. The upper attach is the large eyelet hinge that
is cut into two pieces. Look on the plans and you will see where there is a
gap between the two pieces just inboard of the oil filler opening in the
cowling. Make sure the gap is on the same side as the opening or you won't
be able to insert the hinge pins later on. Both sides get one length of
hinge each and the bottom gets two smaller sections that go between the air
outlet on the bottom and the corners. My suggestion is to install the sides
and bottom pieces to the fuselage prior to installing the engine mount.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
Awaiting overhaul of Injector then DONE!!
>From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Piano Hinge & S cowl
>Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 09:26:15 -0500
>
>
>Can anyone tell me if the same kind of piano hinge is used all the way
>around
>the cowl where the cowl is attached to the firewall?
>
>Per the plans it looks like this is the case but when adding up the
>dimensions I
>get 82 inches of hinge needed and I was only shipped six feet or 72 inches
>with
>the finish kit.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( FWF )
>O-360 ( sensenich )
>N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Franz's story (was The Lure Of Flight) |
In a message dated 9/5/00 6:21:13 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Put me down for one hardback, autographed of course. >>
Me too!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Biddle" <dbiddle(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | DL-05 heat muff / Smooth Prime |
Has anyone used the Vans DL-05 heat muff (made by Pillar Enterprises) on the
RV6A with Vetterman crossover exhaust? It is 9" long plus the end clamps.
I haven't taken it out of the plastic bag yet, but it looks like it will
barely fit between the ball joint and the bend on the pipe. Then the pipe
hangar bracket would have to go real close to the firewall and be difficult
to go around the nose gear support structure.
Any user reports on Poly Fiber Smooth Prime for those epoxy cowls and
fairings to fill all those pinholes?
Dave Biddle
Phoenix, AZ
RV6A cowl, baffles, systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: DL-05 heat muff / Smooth Prime |
In a message dated 9/5/00 5:36:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dbiddle(at)wans.net
writes:
<< Any user reports on Poly Fiber Smooth Prime for those epoxy cowls and
fairings to fill all those pinholes?
Dave Biddle
Phoenix, AZ
RV6A cowl, baffles, systems >>
I applied about a quart of Smoothprime last week... I think it is a good
product, but there is no silver bullet to solve pinholes. Even with
Smoothprime, there is a fair amount of work involved. Here are my results and
suggestions:
First, I applied several coats of epoxy/micro and filled a lot of the weave
and big uglies. I sanded between applications.
Before I applied the SmoothPrime, I washed all the plastic stuff with
detergent and water (the factory recommended substitute for the spec'd
PolyFiber cleaner..). I let the cowl dry.
I mixed the first coat of material per instructions for roller application.
It turned out too thick in consistancy to be rolled on smoothly. This left
me with quite a few lumps and bumps to sand out later. On subsequent coats I
thinned the material to the ratios suggested for spray application and it
rolled on smoothly. Do not sand between coats.
After three coats I sanded (they recommend six coats, but I didn't think this
was necessary because I'd already done a lot of filling with micro). This
left a few small patches of visible weave, and I brushed another coat of
SmoothPrime into these areas, which I sanded later. I was very pleased with
the final results.
A few notes:
1) After you clean your fiberglass, let it dry completely.
2) Let the smoothprime dry completely between coats. Drying time varies
with humidity and temperature.
3) Dry sand this material. It is much faster than wet sanding, and
smoothprime doesn't clog sandpaper.
4) Depending on how much fill work you do before beginning with smoothprime,
a quart may not be enough. I started with reasonably smooth fiberglass parts
and a quart allowed me to apply 3 coats to the cowl, spinner, gear leg
fairings, and intersection fairings, with just a little left over.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Report: Henry Gorgas Builder's Workshop (Long) |
Following is a report on the two-day RV builders workshop I attended
last week given by Henry Gorgas. If you don't want to read about it,
please hit delete now.
I acquired my RV-8 project back in April, but I have done next to
nothing on it, partly because I did not have a place to work on it until
June 1st. Since moving it into the hangar in June, I have been chomping
at the bit to get going on it. But at the same time I was reluctant to
start until I had been to a builder's class that would teach me the
basic skills. Quite frankly, I just didn't feel like I knew what I was
doing, or that I had the knowledge and skills to work on it without
screwing something up. Also, the work that was done on my project by
the previous owner was first-rate, and I wanted to make sure that my
work could come close to the quality of the work he did. So I chose to
take the two day builders workshop offered by Henry Gorgas.
There are several places where you can take an RV-specific builders
workshop. George Orndorff conducts one at his location just outside of
Fort Worth, Texas. I have heard only good things about his class.
Also, an RV workshop is offered at Alexander Sport Air in Georgia. I
chose the workshop offered by Henry Gorgas for several reasons. First,
a number of builders in the Pacific Northwest said that it was
first-rate. Second, the price was reasonable ($270). Third, the
instructor/student ratio is kept very low. And finally, Henry was
willing to schedule a workshop on the Thursday and Friday right before
Van's Homecoming, so I could attend both for the price of one plane
ticket.
On Wednesday, I caught a flight from Phoenix to Portland, and arrived by
late afternoon at the Safari Inn motel in McMinnville, Oregon, which was
recommended by Henry, and turned out to be a nice place. There were
four of us attending the class. Henry will schedule a class if he has
at least two people who want to attend, but four is the maximum. Any
more than that, and he feels that he just cannot give each student the
close attention that they need and deserve. The other attendees were
Clay Killion (also from Phoenix), Tom Brandon from Kentucky, and John
Switzer from Eastern Oregon. Clay is building an RV-6 and has his
empennage, John will be building an RV-8QB and also has his empennage,
and Tom is about to place the order for an RV-9A empennage. Like me,
they were all waiting until after they had taken the workshop to begin
drilling holes and pounding rivets.
Thursday morning, we all drove out to Henry's place in one car, arriving
just after 8:00 am. He really lives out in the sticks. His home and
workshop are several miles outside of a small burg called Carlton, which
is about 10 miles from McMinnville. If you take his class, be sure to
have him send you a map, otherwise you will never find the place.
Walking into his shop, the first thing we saw was a customer's RV-8 on
the gear nearing completion, with the firewall forward package
installed. It was beautiful, and every rivet appeared to be perfect,
but I guess they should be. After all, Henry has been custom building
RV's for people for ten years. Prior to that, he was at Lockheed for
ten years building L-1011's and B-1 bombers.
Henry got us started as soon as we arrived. We were each given a packet
of blueprints and materials. The first hour was spent just learning
what the blueprints were calling for, and what the rivet callouts were,
and what each callout actually meant. Henry spent some time talking
about acceptable methods of riveting, including appropriate rivet types
and sizes for different jobs. After that, we started measuring and
laying out our first assignment, which was simply riveting two pieces of
aluminum to each other at right angles. That was actually fairly easy.
The next assignment was a little harder. It involved butting two pieces
of skin together, laying out the holes, drilling, and riveting them both
to an underlying skin. Just to make it more challenging, there were
different size and type rivets and different rivet spacing called out
for each row of rivets. Some of these we backriveted, and others we
bucked. In the process, we used 2X, 3X, and 4X rivet guns, both with
and without a pressure regulator on the gun. The 4X was hard to
control, and was easy to do damage with. However, by holding the gun
the correct way, even the 4X became controllable. (The forefinger is
laid out flat along the axis of the gun, the middle finger is the
trigger finger, and the fourth finger is tucked in behind the trigger to
keep you from pulling the trigger too far, too fast.)
After learning to control the 4X, the 3X by comparison was fairly easy,
and the 2X was a piece of cake. We were also taught the correct way to
hold the bucking bar, when to put more pressure on the gun side, and
when to have equal pressure on both sides. Henry also put great
emphasis on holding the drill the right way, in order to get straight
holes and to keep the drill bit from wandering off your mark. We also
learned how to dimple and rivet using a pneumatic squeezer as well as
dimpling with the C-frame and hammer, and we learned when to dimple and
when it is more appropriate to countersink. (The pneumatic squeezer is
now on my "must have" list of tools.)
After lunch, we were each given a 15" x30" piece of .024 thickness skin,
a piece of spar channel, and a handfull of pre-cut stiffeners. It was
time to start laying out a section of control surface. Nothing was
pre-drilled. As you all know, most of Van's kits are completely
pre-punched now, and in the case of the RV-9A, even the ribs and spars
are match-drilled. Even so, Henry feels it is important to learn how to
lay something out from scratch like this because of the skills you learn
in the process.
So we measured and marked, measured again and re-marked, and then
started drilling holes. We also deburred the edges and filed the
corners of everything. We trimmed the ends of the stiffeners so they
wouldn't interfere with the spar. Every time I asked Henry "What size
hole here" or "What kind of rivet are we using there", instead of
answering the question, he would just say "Look at your blueprint".
Then he would make me tell HIM what was called for, and if I didn't
know, he would take me back through the AN numbers, drill sizes, etc
until I did know. I appreciated this approach, as he was forcing me to
learn and understand for myself what the blueprints were calling for.
By the end of the first day, we had our control surface sections laid
out and mostly drilled. I think we were all having so much fun that
none of us wanted to stop when Henry unplugged our drills at 5:30 pm.
The next morning, we all walked into the shop and went right to work on
our projects. We finished up drilling them, and then spent some time
deburring and dimpling all the holes. Then we started backriveting the
stiffeners onto the skins. In the process, Henry talked to us about the
right way to pro-seal the stiffeners to the skins. The backriveting was
fun and pretty easy, but there are still some ways to screw it up which
Henry told us about, and which John just had to find out for himself.
:-) The next step was to finish bending the trailing edge of the skin.
This was done progressively in steps, and with a warning not to pull the
skin in any farther than it was already bent, or else we would end up
with a crease where we didn't want one.
Finally it was time to rivet in the spar. John and Tom ran into trouble
at first by going full blast with the gun. Both of them ended up with a
few smiley dents in their skins. But in the process, they learned how
NOT to do that. Clay and I had better success, with our rows of bucked
rivets looking as good as the backriveted ones. In fact, I was damn
proud of the work I was doing, and was feeling pretty smug. No dents or
smileys here, no sirree! My rivets look like a machine did them,
yessir! Then I took it out of the jig and discovered to my dismay that
I had a wicked twist along the trailing edge. If it had been a real
control surface we were building, even with the dents, theirs would be
usable. But with the twist, mine would have to be thrown out. It's
still hard to believe that I could have so much twist in just a 15"
section.
But as a result, I learned what I did wrong that caused the twist. And
I subsequently learned how to properly set up, align, level, and center
the wooden jigs to insure that it will NOT happen when I am building the
real thing. And that is the real value of taking a class like this.
Not only getting to make mistakes, but then learning how and why the
mistake was made, and understanding how to avoid making that mistake
again.
After we finished our projects, Henry talked about a lot of the common
"gotcha's" that people run into at various stages of an RV project. He
talked about how to make sure your fuel tanks fit the rest of the wing
when they're done, and how to fix it if they don't. He talked about
ways to avoid the "puckers" around each rivet that are fairly common on
turtledecks, leading edges, and other curved surfaces. He showed us how
to use solid rivets instead of pop rivets at the ends of the horizontal
stabilizer. We learned how to attach the NACA vents with rivets,
washers, and proseal. He talked to us about how to avoid loose or
wrinkled skins. Henry feels that the theory of heating the skins before
riveting to make them fit tight is nonsensical and unnecessary. He
believes that not holding the materials tightly together when drilling
them, not getting all your chips out, and improper riveting sequence is
what causes loose or wrinkled skins.
At all times, we were encouraged to ask questions. We must have asked
hundreds of questions, from tools, to priming, to riveting, to fitting
the canopy frame and the cowling.
Henry also encouraged us to call him anytime as we get into the building
process and new questions come up.
In addition to learning some new skills, we all became friends. And
during the short breaks we took from time to time, we and Henry
discussed politics, religion, the environment, and generally how screwed
up a lot of things are becoming in America. By Friday afternoon, we had
pretty much solved most of this country's problems.
Before we left, Henry took us on a walking tour of his property. He has
30 acres, mostly wooded. Over the last 10 years, he has planted over
2,000 more trees, built a pond and stocked it with a lot of fish, and a
year ago he and his wife began construction on an incredible log home
just up the hill from the shop. It is surrounded by tall pine trees,
and it should be finished sometime next year.
For me, I believe this class will more than pay for itself just in the
cost of the replacement parts that I (probably) won't have to order.
Also, I feel that I have a much better idea of what I am doing, and I
now feel confident that I have the skills to proceed and do a really
nice job. It's impossible to learn everything in just two days, but I
sure learned a lot. I would encourage those of you who are getting
ready to build, but feel hesitant about your skills and ability, to take
a class like this one. It will be money very well spent.
If anyone is interested in taking Henry's class, his phone number is
(503) 852-7378. In addition to hearing protection and safety glasses
that you get to keep, Henry provides all the coffee, soda and cookies
you can consume. :-)
George True, Phoenix AZ
RV-8, rarin' to go full tilt now with my new skills...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on Front Spar on RV6 HS |
>
>
>I need some advice on the front HS spar on the RV-6. I marked and drilled
>my HS-405's as per the typical rib spar detail section on drg 3pp. when I
>back drilled the HS-602 and the HS-610, the hole was off center to the
>inside of the HS-610's centerline by about 3/32 this makes it closer than
>1/4 inch to the inside edge of the HS-610. What do I do now? Buy more
>602s,610, and 405s? Or just rivet the thing on there and forget it?
>
>Thanks in advance for any help!
>
>Brian Chesteen
>Rv-6 Emp
Brian,
I just looked at my HS (the RV-8 is very similar to the RV-6 in this
area), and I'm baffled. There should be lots of edge distance margin
in this area, as the HS-610 is 3/4 wide, which means you've got 3/8
edge distance if the hole is in the centre. You would have to be off
by 1/8 inch to get down to the minimum edge distance. Are you
measuring from the centre of the hole? Edge distance is measured
from the centre of the hole, not the edge.
If you truly have less than 1/4 inch edge distance, I would discuss
this one with Van's. You certainly don't want to accept less than
1/4 inch edge distance without getting their blessing, but there is a
slight chance that you are OK in this case.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
I am about to write a massive check to take delivery of my Aerosport
Power engine. For those of you who also bought your engines from Bart, are
there any things that I should verify or request prior to authorizing
shipment? I have ordered an O360-B1B with Airflow Performance fuel
injection and a Lightspeed ignition replacing one magneto.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Ted Lumpkin
RV-4 (ready to hang the engine when I get it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Anyone have experience with the O-360-B1A?
160 hp. Dynafocal mounts.
80 hrs since chrome major. (Anyone know what this means?) Owner said 80
hours since overhaul.
Hasn't ran in 3.5 years.
How much would one of these go for in US dollars?
The search continues
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6A
CF-SND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Capacitance Senders & F14 Video Clip |
I'm looking for any pictures of the capacitive fuel senders that someone
might have or maybe there is a web site that shows the installation. I'm
not quite ready to do the tanks but it shouldn't be much longer.
Also, for those who've never seen it, I've put a video clip of an F14 doing
a supersonic flyby about 50' off the water. The cone off the nose while
freaking the sound barrier is truly impressive. You've probably seen a
still photo of something simular but the flyby is pretty cool. It's a 1.2
mb file so give it while if you're on a 56K connection.
I understand that my web site is wreaking havoc and giving Netscape users
some problems. I'm working on the problem but until then, I apologize to
the Netscape users out there.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
Mike Nellis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 125 hr. obs. |
Great post rick. One comment. You said:
> 4. Be very carefull when closing the sliding canopy. I was rushed once &
> slid the canopy shut with the outside handle pointed forward. Put a
little
> ding in my carbon rollover bar fairing.
Rick probably figured this out by now but others might not have, so RV-6
sliding canopy builders take heed! Grind a bit off the bottom aft tip of the
handle so it will clear the windscreen fairing if left pointing forward. I
was lucky enough to see a tip about that on the list before I finished my
canopy so I avoided that hassle.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Bart Lalonde Engine questions |
A local builder and I were discussing engines recently and a couple of
questions concerning the Lalonde engines came up that I wasn't able to
answer. Since engine rebuild stuff is fresh on my mind I would
appreciate somebody who has received a Lalonde engine to help me build
my knowledge base concerning these popular engines.
1) Is it correct the engines are delivered with an experimental data
plate?
2) What goes into the bottom end of one of these engines? Is the crank,
rods, gears, cam, lifters, etc. yellow-tagged, magnafluxed, replaced, or
what?
3) Is a log provided with the engine?
4) Is the case rebuilt?
5) Do you get new cylinders?
The real question that was raised in our discussion was concerning the
traceability of the parts in the engine. In a certificated rebuild,
there are logs and tags that follow the components so you have some idea
of the history of the various pieces. Is this the case with the Lalonde
engines?
Thanks in advance for any info in this regard. Even though Bart's engine
have a fine reputation, inquiring minds are still, well, curious!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 180hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DL-05 heat muff / Smooth Prime |
Dave Biddle wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone used the Vans DL-05 heat muff (made by Pillar Enterprises) on the
> RV6A with Vetterman crossover exhaust? It is 9" long plus the end clamps.
> I haven't taken it out of the plastic bag yet, but it looks like it will
> barely fit between the ball joint and the bend on the pipe. Then the pipe
> hangar bracket would have to go real close to the firewall and be difficult
> to go around the nose gear support structure.
The Robbins heat muff is much more adjustable since the ends of the muff
are eccentric and can be rotated independently. It fit just fine on my
RV-6.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
steve..that long sitting, the rings have possibly taken a "set", and should
be replaced..however you could try it, and get luckey...that 80smoh means a
lot of different things to different people...was it a ZERO time engine,
and say so in the log?....that means it was taken back to new specks, and
in truth it is a zero time...however there are overhauls, and there are
overhauls...get a lits of parts used in the engine, if they aren't in the
log book...if not you are buying something that who knows, besides the
person selling it....and maybe even HE dosn't know....when I buy an engine,
I always take an oil sample, or take a bore scope to the cyls, open the
rocker boxes, and check the shafts, and always pull a compression check
no matter what..even if the engine is sitting on the floor...run a
differential compression check, and check out the mag timeing whail you are
at it...or better yet if you are not a A&P-IA, take one along with you..and
possibly he can save you a few bucks...good luck...jolly in aurora, do not
archive
Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
> Anyone have experience with the O-360-B1A?
> 160 hp. Dynafocal mounts.
> 80 hrs since chrome major. (Anyone know what this means?) Owner said 80
> hours since overhaul.
> Hasn't ran in 3.5 years.
> How much would one of these go for in US dollars?
>
> The search continues
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-6A
> CF-SND
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
u want to know exactly what means? chrome major or dynafocal?
i will assume u know what a chrome major means and address the dynafocal.
with a very crude example.if u visualize standing in center field of a
baseball field notice the first base line and third base line-how they are
focusing to the center (home plate). now visualize the same thing about 30
feet higher now u have ( 2 third base lines and 2 first base lines). now if
we could pick an imaginary home base in the exact middle splitting the
difference say at 15 ft of these four sets of lines. center..this is the
direction, sorta which the mounts would be pointing. look, it is believed
that when mounts are done this way they focus to the center, and help with
engine vibration. i not know if that is fact perhaps some of the a&ps could
help. tradaplane has plenty of pix. bob in ark doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Questions, Aircraft Spruce Oil Seperator |
I now have 83 hours on my O360-B1B with Bendix fuel injection engine from
Bart Lalonde in my RV-4. I do not have any fuel bypass valves and I have
not had any hot start problems, even when I stopped in Redding, CA for fuel
on a 95 Deg day! The engine has run perfectly from the very first start a
year ago.
1) My engine came with a factory S/N tag, but since then the engines have had
Aero Sport S/N tags on them.
2) The case on my engine was a 1st run case.
3) I did get new factory cylinders.
4) The engine came with a new log book that said "experimental use only".
There are NO log's that follow the components so you have some idea of the
history of the various pieces. The log book does have the parts - Part
Numbers, AD's, and Serial Numbers and whether they are new.
The only problem I have had is that when I shut the engine down I would get a
small puddle of oil out of the breather line. I first suspected that the
rings did not seat in so I performed a compression check and found that they
were 76, 78, 77, 78. I had installed an Aircraft Spruce oil separator in the
breather and plumbed the return back into the case plug near the dip stick
base. This last weekend as a test I removed the oil separator and in the
last 3 hours I have not had a drop of oil out of the breather line. The
reason I even thought to try this was that there are two other RV's that
were finished around the same time here at Hillsboro, OR, Randall's with a
strait breather line never drips oil and the other also has the Aircraft
Spruce separator and it drips oil. The only thing that I can figure is that
the return line is also acting as a breather and is down near the oil. I
should also point out that the plane has never been down side up, Randall
hopefully will correct this in the next week.
Rob Hickman
N401RH (80+ Hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
I am about to write a massive check to take delivery of my Aerosport
Power engine. For those of you who also bought your engines from Bart, are
there any things that I should verify or request prior to authorizing
shipment? I have ordered an O360-B1B with Airflow Performance fuel
injection and a Lightspeed ignition replacing one magneto.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Ted Lumpkin
RV-4 (ready to hang the engine when I get it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Anyone have experience with the O-360-B1A?
160 hp. Dynafocal mounts.
80 hrs since chrome major. (Anyone know what this means?) Owner said 80
hours since overhaul.
Hasn't ran in 3.5 years.
How much would one of these go for in US dollars?
The search continues
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6A
CF-SND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Capacitance Senders & F14 Video Clip |
I'm looking for any pictures of the capacitive fuel senders that someone
might have or maybe there is a web site that shows the installation. I'm
not quite ready to do the tanks but it shouldn't be much longer.
Also, for those who've never seen it, I've put a video clip of an F14 doing
a supersonic flyby about 50' off the water. The cone off the nose while
freaking the sound barrier is truly impressive. You've probably seen a
still photo of something simular but the flyby is pretty cool. It's a 1.2
mb file so give it while if you're on a 56K connection.
I understand that my web site is wreaking havoc and giving Netscape users
some problems. I'm working on the problem but until then, I apologize to
the Netscape users out there.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
Mike Nellis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Capacitance Senders & F14 Video Clip |
Mike Nellis wrote:
> I'm looking for any pictures of the capacitive fuel senders that someone
> might have or maybe there is a web site that shows the installation. I'm
> not quite ready to do the tanks but it shouldn't be much longer.
Mike, I have some photos of my capacitative senders on my Web page. But
I don't think they'll be particularly useful to you... mine are based on
some probes I bought which originally came out of a KC-135.
FWIW, to get to my photos, go to
http://gringo.whanganui.ac.nz/personal/frankv and follow the link to
Project Photos, then open the Wings menu, Tanks sub-menu.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Help on RV6 HS front Spar |
Thanks for everyone's help, I called Van's and Scott stated that allot of
people have this same problem and not to worry about it to go on!
Just to clarify, the edge distance problem was on a piece of bar angle bar
stock HS-610. The hole that was back drilled through the existing hole I
drilled in the
HS-405 came through about 3/16 from the center of the hole to the inside
(Down toward the 614) of the 610. It is about 1/8 off the centerline of the
610s row of rivets that attach it to
the 602s. I predrilled the holes on the 405s just to make sure there was no
edge distance problem on them and did not think of the consequences of what
would happen to the 610 until
the damage was done. This hole comes in right where the taper starts, so it
is not due to the taper.
There are tons of good rivets on the centerline, on both sides of this one
hole and no other edge distance problems so I am going to stop worrying
about it and go forward.
Thanks for your help again!
Brian Chesteen
RV-6 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Capacitance Senders & F14 Video Clip |
Mike:
Click this link to see a picture of the inboard capacitive plate and wiring
on one of my RV-9A tanks: http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/tanks.html
It's the bottom picture on the page. This is an option on the RV-9. I don't
know if Van's offers a similar kit for other models. I replaced the BNC
bulkhead connectors that were supplied with a higher quality Amphenol
connectors.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Flaps completed
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message posted by: "Mike Nellis"
I'm looking for any pictures of the capacitive fuel senders that someone
might have or maybe there is a web site that shows the installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
I didn't think I would be scratching my head this early in the project but I
stick with fabricating the 810 and 814. I'm sure they are fairly cheap
pieces to replace if I do screw them up, BUT I would rather not or have to
wait for them to continue building. What is the best way to cut and taper
these pieces? I've practiced a little with some scrap angle on the band
saw, but the cuts are not that impressive! Would a die grinder work better?
BTW - would a die grinder be a good investment for the rest of the project?
The only other solution I had for the 810 and 814 would be to grind down on
a 6" grinder, but that seems to be a very slow process....
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | N94BD paint pics |
Listers,
I've updated my webpage with a few pics of the new paint job. As usual, the
images don't do justice to it. You have to see it shine in the sun to
appreciate it. Paint used was PPG Urethane clearcoat in Gold, Teal and
Black. Quite different and really stands out in a line of tied down spam
cans. The job was done by George Bougeokles of "Aircraft Painting by George"
in Corona, California. I'm very pleased with the end result, but it took
much longer than planned and was somewhat rushed near the end. Many thanks
to Ed Perry for his two visits to check on the progress.
Here's the link:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/paint1.html
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
I am about to write a massive check to take delivery of my Aerosport
Power engine. For those of you who also bought your engines from Bart, are
there any things that I should verify or request prior to authorizing
shipment? I have ordered an O360-B1B with Airflow Performance fuel
injection and a Lightspeed ignition replacing one magneto.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Ted Lumpkin
RV-4 (ready to hang the engine when I get it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Capacitance Senders & F14 Video Clip |
I'm looking for any pictures of the capacitive fuel senders that someone
might have or maybe there is a web site that shows the installation. I'm
not quite ready to do the tanks but it shouldn't be much longer.
Also, for those who've never seen it, I've put a video clip of an F14 doing
a supersonic flyby about 50' off the water. The cone off the nose while
freaking the sound barrier is truly impressive. You've probably seen a
still photo of something simular but the flyby is pretty cool. It's a 1.2
mb file so give it while if you're on a 56K connection.
I understand that my web site is wreaking havoc and giving Netscape users
some problems. I'm working on the problem but until then, I apologize to
the Netscape users out there.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
Mike Nellis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Anyone have experience with the O-360-B1A?
160 hp. Dynafocal mounts.
80 hrs since chrome major. (Anyone know what this means?) Owner said 80
hours since overhaul.
Hasn't ran in 3.5 years.
How much would one of these go for in US dollars?
The search continues
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6A
CF-SND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
Good morning Ted,
I have a Bart LaBlonde O-360 B1B fuel injected engine equipped with a
Lasar ignition. The engine has run well with 50 hours logged.
Bart has been a stand up guy and good to his word. He has always been
there to hold my hand after the sale. When I call with a question or
concern, he has taken my calls or returned my calls within a few minutes. My
questions always had more to do with my inexperience than a real problem.
Bart has always shared his experience and opinions but has also been willing
to state he didn't know when something didn't make sense.
You asked what you should be doing. One thing I wasn''t really aware of
is how many different options that you can have done to your engine. They
all cost extra but have merit. Bart will build your engine to your
specifications. He has a standard rebuild that uses a new crank, reground
cams, and first run cylinders. If you want all new components, he will
certainly oblige. I met one builder who had Bart chrome plate his rocker
covers and air intake pipes. He will install starters and alternators to
your specs or leave them off. So with this said, I would fax Bart an order
form letter stating exactly what I thought I was purchasing and list any
specific items. i.e electronic ignition, B&C alternator, Bendix or airflow
fuel injection, new cylinders, blue printing, chrome plating, etc. In my
opinion, the greatest risk, since your may be buying a customized product,
is having some miscommunications between the parties involved.
I choose Bart because he warranted his engines for a year after the first
start on my airplane. At the time, the factory warranty was six months from
the date of the sale which meant no warranty at all to me. Bart would
configure the engine the way I wanted it. At the time, Van's only offered a
carburetor version. There was a substantial difference in price. At the
time, I figured about 10k between new versus Bart's engine.
I think one of the funniest line I have read after monitoring this list
for five years came from the fellow that stated "After buying his engine, he
had his wallet on artificial life support."
Cheers,
Tom Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Capacitance Senders & F14 Video Clip |
Mike Nellis wrote:
> I'm looking for any pictures of the capacitive fuel senders that someone
> might have or maybe there is a web site that shows the installation. I'm
> not quite ready to do the tanks but it shouldn't be much longer.
Mike, I have some photos of my capacitative senders on my Web page. But
I don't think they'll be particularly useful to you... mine are based on
some probes I bought which originally came out of a KC-135.
FWIW, to get to my photos, go to
http://gringo.whanganui.ac.nz/personal/frankv and follow the link to
Project Photos, then open the Wings menu, Tanks sub-menu.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Help on RV6 HS front Spar |
Thanks for everyone's help, I called Van's and Scott stated that allot of
people have this same problem and not to worry about it to go on!
Just to clarify, the edge distance problem was on a piece of bar angle bar
stock HS-610. The hole that was back drilled through the existing hole I
drilled in the
HS-405 came through about 3/16 from the center of the hole to the inside
(Down toward the 614) of the 610. It is about 1/8 off the centerline of the
610s row of rivets that attach it to
the 602s. I predrilled the holes on the 405s just to make sure there was no
edge distance problem on them and did not think of the consequences of what
would happen to the 610 until
the damage was done. This hole comes in right where the taper starts, so it
is not due to the taper.
There are tons of good rivets on the centerline, on both sides of this one
hole and no other edge distance problems so I am going to stop worrying
about it and go forward.
Thanks for your help again!
Brian Chesteen
RV-6 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
--- Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>
>
> I am about to write a massive check to take delivery of my
Turn it off!
Please!
Turn it off!!
:)
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (Bart's Engine on Order)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS810 and 814 |
Bob, the BEST was to make your own HS810 & 814 is to use a milling machine.
Chances are, you don't have one avaliable. With that said, you should be
able to buy the bar stock, trace the shape using the old parts and cut them
on the band saw. Cut them just a hair (1/32) oversize then use a belt
sander get rid of the blade marks and bring them to size and round the ends.
I used that technique when I secrewed up my first set. Unfortunately, I
wasn't taking very many (or good) pictures back then.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 10:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: HS810 and 814
>
> I didn't think I would be scratching my head this early in the project but
I
> stick with fabricating the 810 and 814. I'm sure they are fairly cheap
> pieces to replace if I do screw them up, BUT I would rather not or have to
> wait for them to continue building. What is the best way to cut and taper
> these pieces? I've practiced a little with some scrap angle on the band
> saw, but the cuts are not that impressive! Would a die grinder work
better?
> BTW - would a die grinder be a good investment for the rest of the
project?
> The only other solution I had for the 810 and 814 would be to grind down
on
> a 6" grinder, but that seems to be a very slow process....
>
> Bob Waalkes
> RV-8 Emp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
Bob,
I am new to building but I have allot of experience on this one! I had to
redo these so I will give you some pointers. First off, I used a band saw
with a 3/8 in wide blade to cut the tapers, First I Drilled the holes (Use a
drill press with a backstop to keep the holes on center!) Then I marked
very precisely the final location of the taper and the radius on the end
(The plans say to have a 1/4 radius, I would make it 3/16 because by the
time you smooth it out, you will have overdone it!)on the piece. Then use
the band saw and cut outside of the line! Don't try to cut the radius with
the saw! Use a sanding machine to cut the majority of the saw marks and the
radius away. Use the scotchbrite wheel to bring it up to the final line and
polish away any marks!. Do not drill the holes that say Drill in assembly!
There are eight of these total! 4 for the Fuse and 4 for the 405 ribs.
The hardest part about the front spar is cutting the flanges off the 602's!
Make sure that you leave a little of the radius to make sure that you have
enough material to meet the edge distance requirement when you drill the
holes to mate the 610 to the 602! The second time around, I drilled the
holes before cutting off the flanges. I then marked a line that was my "do
not cross line" that was at the minimum edge distance from the holes I had
drilled and worked to that line. If there is any of a little radius left,
just peck it flat with a hammer. I would also not cut the flange back to 5
1/4", the plans state to trim to fit. Cut them back to 5 1/8, put a stop
drill hole at 5 1/4"(the bend line) and make them look something like the
614 does. This will give you more room on the edge distance when you put
the rivet in that goes where the 602,405, and the skin intersect.
I hope this helps! I wish I had asked before it costed me another $65 in
parts to get it right. Vans should include an extra set because allot of
people end up redoing this one!
Brian Chesteen
RV-6 Emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Waalkes
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 10:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: HS810 and 814
I didn't think I would be scratching my head this early in the project but I
stick with fabricating the 810 and 814. I'm sure they are fairly cheap
pieces to replace if I do screw them up, BUT I would rather not or have to
wait for them to continue building. What is the best way to cut and taper
these pieces? I've practiced a little with some scrap angle on the band
saw, but the cuts are not that impressive! Would a die grinder work better?
BTW - would a die grinder be a good investment for the rest of the project?
The only other solution I had for the 810 and 814 would be to grind down on
a 6" grinder, but that seems to be a very slow process....
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
"'Dave Biddle'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | DL-05 heat muff / Smooth Prime |
It will either not fit at all or it will not fit very well. I am using
mine, but think that I should buy on from Vetterman that fits the RV-6A. If
I were you I'd sent the Pillar heat muff back right now.
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
RV-6A prop spinner
-----Original Message-----
Has anyone used the Vans DL-05 heat muff (made by Pillar Enterprises) on the
RV6A with Vetterman crossover exhaust? It is 9" long plus the end clamps.
I haven't taken it out of the plastic bag yet, but it looks like it will
barely fit between the ball joint and the bend on the pipe. Then the pipe
hangar bracket would have to go real close to the firewall and be difficult
to go around the nose gear support structure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS810 and 814 |
Hi Bob
Definitely, positively, absolutely go out and buy a
good right angle die grinder. You will use this tool
more than any other. Avery's sell a mandrel and
cutter that makes straight, quick cuts in aluminum.
Good luck, keep scratching.
Rob Miller
RV-8 Finishing
--- Bob Waalkes wrote:
>
>
> I didn't think I would be scratching my head this
> early in the project but I
> stick with fabricating the 810 and 814. I'm sure
> they are fairly cheap
> pieces to replace if I do screw them up, BUT I would
> rather not or have to
> wait for them to continue building. What is the
> best way to cut and taper
> these pieces? I've practiced a little with some
> scrap angle on the band
> saw, but the cuts are not that impressive! Would a
> die grinder work better?
> BTW - would a die grinder be a good investment for
> the rest of the project?
> The only other solution I had for the 810 and 814
> would be to grind down on
> a 6" grinder, but that seems to be a very slow
> process....
>
> Bob Waalkes
> RV-8 Emp
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
> I am about to write a massive check to take delivery of my Aerosport
> Power engine. For those of you who also bought your engines from Bart,
are
> there any things that I should verify or request prior to authorizing
> shipment
Just one thing to do after delivery: check the vacum pump pad cover. He'll
probably ship it with a plastic cover and if you don't put a vacum pump on,
you'll want to replace that with an aluminum cover. The plastic ones are for
temporary use only.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
Also, check to make sure the starter motor tooth count matches the starter
ring gear. Brent Anderson had the starter motor on a brand new factory
Lycoming from Van's break when he turned his engine over for the first time
because Lycoming had installed the wrong motor. The moral is, anyone can
install the wrong starter motor, so count first, ask questions later. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: Randall Henderson <randallh(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 8:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice
>
> > I am about to write a massive check to take delivery of my Aerosport
> > Power engine. For those of you who also bought your engines from Bart,
> are
> > there any things that I should verify or request prior to authorizing
> > shipment
>
> Just one thing to do after delivery: check the vacum pump pad cover. He'll
> probably ship it with a plastic cover and if you don't put a vacum pump
on,
> you'll want to replace that with an aluminum cover. The plastic ones are
for
> temporary use only.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS810 and 814 |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I used a hack saw. band would be nice. Get you a Vixon file, I use a 1
inch belt sander that was cheap.
Always pre drill a hole before you bend the angle. The parts are very
confussing till you get done, so mark them for up & down , right & left.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> I didn't think I would be scratching my head this early in the
> project but I
> stick with fabricating the 810 and 814. I'm sure they are fairly
> cheap
> pieces to replace if I do screw them up, BUT I would rather not or
> have to
> wait for them to continue building. What is the best way to cut and
> taper
> these pieces? I've practiced a little with some scrap angle on the
> band
> saw, but the cuts are not that impressive! Would a die grinder work
> better?
> BTW - would a die grinder be a good investment for the rest of the
> project?
> The only other solution I had for the 810 and 814 would be to grind
> down on
> a 6" grinder, but that seems to be a very slow process....
>
> Bob Waalkes
> RV-8 Emp
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine questions |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> A local builder and I were discussing engines recently and a couple of
> questions concerning the Lalonde engines came up that I wasn't able to
> answer. Since engine rebuild stuff is fresh on my mind I would
> appreciate somebody who has received a Lalonde engine to help me build
> my knowledge base concerning these popular engines.
>
> 1) Is it correct the engines are delivered with an experimental data
> plate?
Yes
>
>
> 2) What goes into the bottom end of one of these engines? Is the crank,
> rods, gears, cam, lifters, etc. yellow-tagged, magnafluxed, replaced, or
> what?
In my case I got new Engine Components Inc crank and cam, and yellow-tagged
gears and rods and dont really know about the lifters.
>
>
>
> 3) Is a log provided with the engine?
Yes, with a list of all parts replace and the test cell run info.
>
>
> 4) Is the case rebuilt?
Yes
>
>
> 5) Do you get new cylinders?
Yes, if you want them. Bart uses ECI Classic Cast Cylinder assemblies.
>
>
> The real question that was raised in our discussion was concerning the
> traceability of the parts in the engine. In a certificated rebuild,
> there are logs and tags that follow the components so you have some idea
> of the history of the various pieces. Is this the case with the Lalonde
> engines?
I have logs but no tags. My crank and cylinders were tracable through ECI by
there serial numbers. I checked this once I got my engine
>
>
> Thanks in advance for any info in this regard. Even though Bart's engine
> have a fine reputation, inquiring minds are still, well, curious!
We never stop learning
Gary Zilik
RV-6A - Aerosport O-360-A1A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
Sorry I mean 5/16 instead of 3/16.
>snip
>(The plans say to have a 1/4 radius, I would make it *3/16* because by the
>snip
Brian Chesteen
RV-6 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hi Bob,
I have a spare HS814 for the -8- if you need it.
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Waalkes
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 9:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: HS810 and 814
I didn't think I would be scratching my head this early in the project but I
stick with fabricating the 810 and 814. I'm sure they are fairly cheap
pieces to replace if I do screw them up, BUT I would rather not or have to
wait for them to continue building. What is the best way to cut and taper
these pieces? I've practiced a little with some scrap angle on the band
saw, but the cuts are not that impressive! Would a die grinder work better?
BTW - would a die grinder be a good investment for the rest of the project?
The only other solution I had for the 810 and 814 would be to grind down on
a 6" grinder, but that seems to be a very slow process....
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS810 and 814 |
In a message dated 9/6/00 6:58:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
waalkes(at)netnitco.net writes:
<< What is the best way to cut and taper these pieces? >>
I used my el cheapo Sears bandsaw to get close to the line and finished with
a large Vixen file (Avery, most hardware stores don't know what a Vixen file
is) followed up with a smooth finish file and 320 grit wet or dry. worked
great!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Tailwheel |
I was wondering if any of you are still running the Andair pneumatic
tailwheel. I would like to get a couple of pounds off the rear of my RV-4
and this might be a great way to do that.
I noticed that back in Oct 99 there was a thread with many references to
Andair tailwheel failures. Have these problems been resolved? I noticed
that Andair was determined to make things right. Did they take care of it
by giving you all your money back, or by coming up with a reliable
replacement product. Thanks for all your help.
Best regards,
Don Mei
N92CT
Essex, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS810 and 814 |
David & Betty Burton
"The only other solution I had for the 810 and 814 would be to grind down on
a 6" grinder, but that seems to be a very slow process...."
I hope not a grinding wheel... Using non-ferrous materials on a grinding
wheel is likely to cause the wheel to load up and explode. This can cause
serious injury or death to the user if it happens. A 6" sander would be fine.
I would suggest: bandsaw, file, scotchbright wheel, primer.
Dave Burton
RV6A
near Seattle
http://www.egroups.com/group/PugetSoundRVBuilders
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
In a message dated 9/6/00 10:21:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time, RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< It was extremely hot that year and I must have
missed the part about thinning when using a roller. It's a good thing the
garage walls can't talk. >>
The instructions say not to thin if using a roller. Like you, my experience
was that thinning was necessary to avoid the stucco look.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Engine Misfire Intermittent |
A friend of mine in Marble Falls, TX has an engine problem that is
baffiling everybody around here. Plane is an RV6A. Anybody have any ideas.
Thanks
Dick Dial RV6 Building
Thanks for the suggestion Dick. I'll see if I can find the RV list you
are
talking about.
The engine problem as I have described it for other friends I have been
asking for help is:
The RV-6A has a Lycoming 320 - H2AD engine. During the last few flights I
have noticed that the engine run up is normal, mag drop is about 75 rpm
both
left and right but about 10 to 15 minutes after take off I get a very short
miss fire (I noticed a rpm drop of as much as 25 to 50 rpm). The miss fire
has been noticed on both tanks, with and without electric fuel pump and on
several different loads of gas. Just sort of like the mag switch was
turned
to left or right briefly but not as much RPM drop. On a typical three hour
flight this may happen about 3 or 4 times but seems to subside later in the
flight. So, I changed plugs (RHM 38E).. that didn't do anything for the
problem but I did notice the new plugs had some evidence of lead fouling
after only a few hours so I installed another new set of plugs with a
higher
heat range (RHM 40E) but that didn't help either. The ignition harness
seems to be in good condition (the plane only has 150 hours since new but
the mags and an engine rebuild in 1996).
Then a couple of weeks ago I took the plane for about an hour flight
each way and the engine miss was much worse.. dropped from 2,400 to almost
2,000 briefly a couple of times and then was normal the rest of the way
back
home, but really scared me. Back on the ground the engine runs smooth and
the mag drops are 75 each left and right and starts easy. So, I'm
concerned
about flying cross country again till I find the engine miss problem.
The magneto is a Bendix D 4RN - 3000. The Serial number is H 19608 GR and
Part number is IO - 682555-14.
Last week after chatting with a fellow at D&D magneto repair in Hobbs, New
Mexico I took the mag and harness off and sent it to him to overhaul and
replace the capacitors (Part number ES10-382807) to comply with CSB 662A.
When I got the mag back it's internal timing was off (the number one
cylinder lined up with the "B" index instead of the "K" like it should (so
the rotor points to cylinder 3 when it should be cylinder 1). After I
finally found this I decided to align the "B" and reinstalled the mag so I
could check to see if the original problem was fixed. Well.. it wasn't I
still have the same problem but now I don't have confidence in the mag was
rebuilt right so I don't know if I need to just replace it or look for
something else like maybe in the valve train.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Consultant3, Cmtsd" <cmtsd.consultant3(at)cmtsd.mea.com> |
| Subject: | Flush button clecos |
"Consultant3, Cmtsd"
Hi,
I recently received a couple of peanut cans full of used clecos from a
fellow who no longer needs them, and some of them look "funny" to me.
The clecos that I'm familiar with have a button that extends outwards from
the cleco body, but a majority of these clecos have a button that is flush
with the body of the cleco. At first, I thought that they were defective,
but when I pushed this flush button into the body with a screwdriver, the
two prongs extended outward from the other end just like a "normal" cleco.
I assume that I need a different type of cleco pliers to use these clecos,
but I've never seen anything like this in all of the usual catalogs. Does
anybody know where I can get a pair of cleco pliers for these flush clecos?
You can never have too many clecos, and I'd like to be able to use these.
Thanks for your help.
Ken Brown
Lurking in San Diego
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | wing skeleton construction (6) |
guys, i see in orndorff videos, sam buch., and nearly all the homepages i
have visited that the ribs are attached on the jig, HOWEVER, the directions
say to do this on the workbench. am i missing something?
suggestions??????????? bob in ark, thanx in advance
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone tried the kit audio panel from RST Engineering? If so how do you
like it?
Chuck
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Engine Misfire Intermittent |
----- Original Message -----
From: "jrdial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 7:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: FW: Engine Misfire Intermittent
>
>
> A friend of mine in Marble Falls, TX has an engine problem that is
> baffiling everybody around here. Plane is an RV6A. Anybody have any
ideas.
> Thanks
> Dick Dial RV6 Building
>
> Dick,
This soulds like a case of an intermittant coil in one of the mags, it
doesn't sound like valve sticking
which usually occurs as morning sickness. Bendix mags are known for this.
Are they blast cooled?
I would consider swapping out those Bendix for new Slicks (mabey you can
borrow a set from a friend
to prove a point) Mattituck usually has a good exchange deal.
Regards, Bill RV-8 N48WD
> Thanks for the suggestion Dick. I'll see if I can find the RV list you
> are
> talking about.
>
> The engine problem as I have described it for other friends I have been
> asking for help is:
>
> The RV-6A has a Lycoming 320 - H2AD engine. During the last few flights I
> have noticed that the engine run up is normal, mag drop is about 75 rpm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rywessel(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Odyssey PC680 battery |
Just a note-
I just picked up an Odyssey PC680 sealed battery (same as Van's) for 110.95
with free shipping from <http://www.absbattery.com>. They shipped the same
day. BTW, this battery only weighs 14.7Lbs!
Note: the price is for online orders only, their call-in price was $160.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A finishing
Tigard, OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com |
| Subject: | Test Flight Update (long) |
Hi Listers,
Thought some of you might find it interesting to hear how my test flying is going
and what
challenges I have had, so here goes:
(RV-4 N9X w/ Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop and 180 hp engine.)
Flight Tests:
Today I combined three different flight tests. I did the stability tests, accelerated
stalls, 2g,
3g, and 4g turns, and my first aerobatic bit (aileron rolls). The plane tested
positively for all
the static tests except the spiral stability. I put it in a 15 degree left bank
and it slowly
increased bank ---- negative spiral stability. In a 15 degree right bank it remained
in a 15
degree bank --- neutral spiral stability. Anybody else have similar results?
Now I can see
why RVers buy wing levelers. As for the "G" testing, I had originally planned
to test up to 6
g's. But, good grief, 4G's is kinda painful. If I'm sloppy enough in aerobatics
to pass 4G's
then just shoot me.
All of these test flights I have done (from the first one where I discovered that
it really would
fly, to today's 5th flight, where I witnessed the wings stay on the airplane in
a 4G turn) have
dramatically boosted my confidence in my airplane. When I am finished testing
it I'll feel quite
comfortable putting my wife, kids or friends in the back seat (one at a time, of
course).
Airplane Gripe List (and solutions):
Each flight I take my little flight test cards with me on a knee board and I record
the results
and my airplane "gripe list" onto a microrecorder. Ahn, a fellow lister, helped
me rig up a
system that has made this quite professional. He told me to get a tiny earpiece
and cut off the
end (nipple) so it would fit in the cup of my headphone earpiece. I just taped
it in there.
Then I plug the other end of the earpiece in the mike jack of my microrecorder.
So, when I
talk into my headset microphone it's picked up in the recorder through the earpiece.
And,
since I wear a flight suit with all the fuzzy velcro pieces I just put a piece
of velcro on my
microrecorder and stick the recorder to my chest. Works like a charm and I don't
have to
shout into the recorder over the airplane noise any more.
I have fought with an oil leak from day #1. It seemed to be coming from the oil
temperature
probe or the oil filter. I replaced the filter, learned from a fellow lister how
to tighten it to get
the proper torque, tightened the oil temperature probe, etc. I just couldn't find
or stop the
leak. Finally, I was talking to an old time mechanic and he asked me if I had
a gasket under
the oil temperature probe. Gasket? Duhhh. Didn't know it required one. Believe
me --- it
does. Problem solved. Lesson Learned: Tell everybody you know what your problems
are
and somebody will hit upon the solution.
I was getting way too much voltage (15.1v). Unfortunately I had buried the voltage
regulator
deep in the bowels near the battery (RV-4 guys know what I'm talking about.).
So I had to
dig it out, rewire it, and put it in a more accessible place so I could adjust
the voltage down.
Lesson learned: Don't bury the adjustable voltage regulator.
I had a hard time seeing my Skyforce IIIC GPS. It was at the bottom of the panel
and it
needed to be angled up to my face. So I remounted the GPS to face up a little
and it was
much better, but if the sun hits it just right it's hard to see. So I made a little
bonnet out of
black cardboard for the GPS and I started wearing a hat. The hat made the most
difference
--- in fact, it's amazing how much the hat helped me see all my instruments. Lesson
Learned:
Wear a hat!
I've had all kinds of little problems that I've discovered each flight. For example,
one flight I
suddenly couldn't hear myself when I spoke in the microphone (sidetone). So when
I put the
airplane away I went through the radio manual to figure out how to turn up the
sidetone. I
thought maybe the whole system was screwed up and imagined what a pain it would
be to
rewire it. Then I took off the little sponge thing from the mike and discovered
that the mike
had been twisted up. So I twisted it back down and BINGO, instant sidetone ---
no
rewiring. Whew! Lesson Learned: Look for the simple solution first.
Listers, I just gotta tell ya --- life is soooo gooooood. This airplane and I
are quickly
becoming best buddies. The visibility is unbelievable, the speed is awesome, and
the quick
response is stunning. And the fun of having other RVers come visit you and fly
around with
you is just too much fun! Keep riveting!!!!
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 16 hours
Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Engine Misfire Intermittent |
dumb question.....how new is the mag switch?....some of the mag switches had an
ad that pertained to this problem....jolly in aurora, or...do not arcive
jrdial wrote:
>
> A friend of mine in Marble Falls, TX has an engine problem that is
> baffiling everybody around here. Plane is an RV6A. Anybody have any ideas.
> Thanks
> Dick Dial RV6 Building
>
> Thanks for the suggestion Dick. I'll see if I can find the RV list you
> are
> talking about.
>
> The engine problem as I have described it for other friends I have been
> asking for help is:
>
> The RV-6A has a Lycoming 320 - H2AD engine. During the last few flights I
> have noticed that the engine run up is normal, mag drop is about 75 rpm
> both
> left and right but about 10 to 15 minutes after take off I get a very short
> miss fire (I noticed a rpm drop of as much as 25 to 50 rpm). The miss fire
> has been noticed on both tanks, with and without electric fuel pump and on
> several different loads of gas. Just sort of like the mag switch was
> turned
> to left or right briefly but not as much RPM drop. On a typical three hour
> flight this may happen about 3 or 4 times but seems to subside later in the
> flight. So, I changed plugs (RHM 38E).. that didn't do anything for the
> problem but I did notice the new plugs had some evidence of lead fouling
> after only a few hours so I installed another new set of plugs with a
> higher
> heat range (RHM 40E) but that didn't help either. The ignition harness
> seems to be in good condition (the plane only has 150 hours since new but
> the mags and an engine rebuild in 1996).
> Then a couple of weeks ago I took the plane for about an hour flight
> each way and the engine miss was much worse.. dropped from 2,400 to almost
> 2,000 briefly a couple of times and then was normal the rest of the way
> back
> home, but really scared me. Back on the ground the engine runs smooth and
> the mag drops are 75 each left and right and starts easy. So, I'm
> concerned
> about flying cross country again till I find the engine miss problem.
>
> The magneto is a Bendix D 4RN - 3000. The Serial number is H 19608 GR and
> Part number is IO - 682555-14.
>
> Last week after chatting with a fellow at D&D magneto repair in Hobbs, New
> Mexico I took the mag and harness off and sent it to him to overhaul and
> replace the capacitors (Part number ES10-382807) to comply with CSB 662A.
> When I got the mag back it's internal timing was off (the number one
> cylinder lined up with the "B" index instead of the "K" like it should (so
> the rotor points to cylinder 3 when it should be cylinder 1). After I
> finally found this I decided to align the "B" and reinstalled the mag so I
> could check to see if the original problem was fixed. Well.. it wasn't I
> still have the same problem but now I don't have confidence in the mag was
> rebuilt right so I don't know if I need to just replace it or look for
> something else like maybe in the valve train.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey PC680 battery |
In a message dated 9/6/00 9:03:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Rywessel(at)AOL.COM
writes:
> They shipped the same
> day. BTW, this battery only weighs 14.7Lbs!
I am using the B&C version, and when I took it in to a local battery
speciality store; he said that is an Odyssey. It is the 11 pound one. Several
of my friends ran them for 2 years in 6's with O-360's and changed them out
based on Nuckoll's comments, but they were still cranking the engine's fine.
Mine is mounted over the rudder pedal crossmembers, but I see the new 9A has
one mounted on the engine side of the firewall which is where my friends had
theirs. If I were doing it today, I would mount mine on the engine side also.
Bernie Kerr
6A, 50 hours and down for painting :>(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing skeleton construction (6) |
Bob, I think you need to reread those instructions. As I recall Van
wants you to drill the main ribs, then align them with the tip ribs and
back drill the tip ribs. This is done on the bench. Then when installing
the main ribs you can backdrill the spar through the main ribs and then
cleco the previously drilled tip rib in place. Does this make any sense?
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing skeleton construction (6) |
Bob,
You can do it either way. I choose to assemble the ribs to the front and
rear spars while the spars were laying across a couple of saw horses. Then
plumb the assembly once it is in the jig. I thought it was much easier to
drill the ribs doing this way.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 7:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing skeleton construction (6)
>
> guys, i see in orndorff videos, sam buch., and nearly all the homepages i
> have visited that the ribs are attached on the jig, HOWEVER, the
directions
> say to do this on the workbench. am i missing something?
> suggestions??????????? bob in ark, thanx in advance
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Burlington - Don't forget to mark your calendars |
Listers, Don't forget to mark your calendars for the 5th Annual RV
Fly-In at Burlington, Colorado on September 22nd - 24th 2000.
Friday is for early arrivals and a great evening dinner with fellow
flyers and builders.
Saturday is the main event with forums by Larry Vetterman, Dana Boucher,
Bob Brashear and Bob Nuckolls. There is a simple speed dash (A Race)
planned for those who want to prove the speeds they post are real. And
for those not interested in racing there will be a Poker Run. In the
evening is the Famous Steak Dinner Banquet followed by the awards
presentation and playing of the poker hands.
Sunday is for sleeping late and finally goin home.
For more information goto
http://www.geocities.com/zilik/burlington.html
Last year we had over 50 RV's and even a couple of spam cans. This is a
builders paradise so no matter how you arrive you don't want to miss the
5th Annual RV Fly-In, or for some, drive-in.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing skeleton construction (6) |
I riveted my ribs to the front and rear spars with the assembly
clecoed together and laying across two saw horses. Then the skeleton
was jigged up, leveled, aligned and clamped into place.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
Roaming Shores, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 8:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing skeleton construction (6)
>
> guys, i see in orndorff videos, sam buch., and nearly all the
homepages i
> have visited that the ribs are attached on the jig, HOWEVER, the
directions
> say to do this on the workbench. am i missing something?
> suggestions??????????? bob in ark, thanx in advance
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Motor mount / intake manifold interferance |
Help...
Over the weekend I mounted my 0320 A2A to my RV6. This engine
was originally a conical mount. I had it converted to Dynafocal by Divco.
Today I started to mount the intake manifolds (tubes) to the sump. The back
two (cylinder 3 & 4) have a problem. If you look into the plenum from
the side where the rubber hose attaches the tube, the upper part of
the flange nearest the motor mount is about 3/16" obstructed by the motor
mount, the tubes that comes up from the battery area.
0320 A2A on a RV6 (not A) is supposed to work.
I tried to illustrate below.
Any advise? (on the mount problem, not my ASCII graphics abilities)
I could email a digital picture if that would help.
|------------------------------------------------|
| |
---| <-- (front intake flange) --> |---
---| |---
| |
|-----| (sump) |-----|
| |
---| |---
O---| (rear intake w/mount) |---O
|------------------------------------|
(View - laying on the ground looking up)
Thanks,
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - Firewall Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kit Audio Panel |
Charlie and Tupper England
GRAYK9(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone tried the kit audio panel from RST Engineering? If so how do you
> like it?
> Chuck
> RV6
>
A friend has an older version audio panel/intercom in his C182. Works
fine, you just have to switch to 'isolate' to transmit on his. I'm sure
the new ones don't require that.
I like RST stuff. My 10 year old RST headphones are my favorites of 4
different brands, including some DC's. They are also my wife's favorite.
Guess who wears them.
You do need to know how to solder & identify electronic components, but
any ham radio operator should be able to help you with that.
Charlie
flying -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Canopy fairing |
Vans has a molding strip for the windscreen Part no. C-630 for $42.31.
After seeing other RV builders fight the fiberglass installation. I would
like to try an easer solution.
.Has any one used it and if so how did it work.
Thanks
Rollie & Rod Finishing kit RV6A
N799RQ (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
What do you use to thinned it with?
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing skeleton construction (6) |
Bob,
I am working on assembling the wing skeleton as we speak and I am doing mine
on the workbench. I will drill and cleco the ribs on the workbench after
careful measuring and locating of the rib locations. I called Vans the
other day about an unrelated matter and we got to talking about this. I
think it was Scott, but he said he's always puts the wings together before
putting the spars in the jig. The jig will be used to true everything up
and allow and easy way to mount the skins.
I've just started documenting the wing assembly process and it can be seen
here. There is no link yet on the main page. Click here.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/wings_assembly.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 8:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing skeleton construction (6)
>
> guys, i see in orndorff videos, sam buch., and nearly all the homepages i
> have visited that the ribs are attached on the jig, HOWEVER, the
directions
> say to do this on the workbench. am i missing something?
> suggestions??????????? bob in ark, thanx in advance
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 125 hr. obs. |
You might try painting the inside of the cowling and the firewall with a
fire resistant paint that one of the local EZ builders is using. The stuff
is from HI-Grade at 800-783-2449 Its called 447 Epoxy but I heard they have
a different formulation that is called something else. Let me
know what you find out..........
Marty in Brentwood, Fuselage almost ready to skin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 125 hr. obs.
>
> I noticed the inside of my S-type cowl turning brown from the exhaust pipe
> heat after just a couple of hours. I cleaned the area as well as I could
of
> greas and grime and then stuck aluminum tape to the inside of the cowl as
a
> heat reflector. Seems to work well. The plane is painted now and shows no
> heat scars on the outside. The tape can be found at most hardware stores
and
> is used in heating and A/C ducting.
>
> Gary Zilik
> RV-6A - 90hrs.
>
> >
> > Real good update for us. Now where do I get the paint for the cowling?
> >
> >
> > >
> > > 14. Bottom of S-glass epoxy cowl is brown from the heat. I should
> > > have
> > > taken L. Vetterman's advice & put heat shield paint inside before
> > > oil got on
> > > it. I do have the redesigned exhaust for theis cowl.
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
In a message dated 9/6/00 10:46:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Rvmils writes:
<< What do you use to thinned it with?
Carey Mills >>
Tap water. I think Aircraft Spruce sells it... ;-)
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Report: Henry Gorgas Builder's Workshop (Long) |
<<< Following is a report on the two-day RV
builders workshop I attended
> last week given by Henry Gorgas. >>>
Thanks George for posting your well written in
depth report on Henry's workshop. Sure sounds like
you guys had a "full on" learning experience. That
post should be added to Vans FAQ.......as it
covers a lot of interesting and very important
issues.
For those builders in Australia/New Zealand, that
have not yet taken the plunge, or are a little
unsure of their skills, Sam Richards (RV6 builder)
is planing to run a series of RV schools, similar
to what is being offered in the US. Sam has a very
strong background in metal work, electronics and
engineering skills. He also has a professional
teaching background. Location of the school is the
beautiful Hunter Valley.
Anyone interested can contact Sam on 02 44957 4465
or samrv6(at)bravo.net.au BTW Sam is away in the US
till the end of the month.
In the meantime, if anyone would like information
on his building school, please contact myself and
I will pass on your details etc.
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
My experience with Smooth Prime was not good. I was given some
to try on mine by a KR-2 builder. He really likes the stuff. I liked the
way it went on with the little roller. Then I did my sanding. I was
used to wet sanding everything; so, that's what I did. However, the
stuff would rise in tiny bubbles. I didn't dawn on me what was
happening, at first; but, I finally realized what it was. For me, the
bubbles would appear with water or thinner. I sanded all of it off the
cowl, wing tips, and gear fairings. After I had removed all of it, the
KR-2 builder told me I wasn't supposed to wet sand it. He had
called the manufacturer to find out. Nowhere in the manual could I
find that it couldn't be wet sanded. Not good.
After that experience, I tried PPG's fast fill primer called K36. That
stuff was wonderful to use. It could fill pin holes and would even fill
some irregularities. Even if I got a persistant pin hole, a touch with
the finger would get rid of it. The paint would just fill in behind it.
It was resistant to runs, too. I'll never use a water based primer again
when there's something on the market like K36.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lutes" <rlutes(at)owc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Engine Misfire Intermittent |
Dick,
I had similar engine missing scenario that turned out to be one or both of
the mags. I originally thought it was a valve sticking, but after having
the mags (400 hr since new Slicks) serviced by a local accessory shop in
Rockford, IL, I've had no further problems. The shop said there was some
contamination on the points on one of the mags.
Rick Lutes
RV-4, Hampshire, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "jrdial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 6:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: FW: Engine Misfire Intermittent
>
>
> A friend of mine in Marble Falls, TX has an engine problem that is
> baffiling everybody around here. Plane is an RV6A. Anybody have any
ideas.
> Thanks
> Dick Dial RV6 Building
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestion Dick. I'll see if I can find the RV list you
> are
> talking about.
>
> The engine problem as I have described it for other friends I have been
> asking for help is:
>
> The RV-6A has a Lycoming 320 - H2AD engine. During the last few flights I
> have noticed that the engine run up is normal, mag drop is about 75 rpm
> both
> left and right but about 10 to 15 minutes after take off I get a very
short
> miss fire (I noticed a rpm drop of as much as 25 to 50 rpm). The miss
fire
> has been noticed on both tanks, with and without electric fuel pump and on
> several different loads of gas. Just sort of like the mag switch was
> turned
> to left or right briefly but not as much RPM drop. On a typical three
hour
> flight this may happen about 3 or 4 times but seems to subside later in
the
> flight. So, I changed plugs (RHM 38E).. that didn't do anything for the
> problem but I did notice the new plugs had some evidence of lead fouling
> after only a few hours so I installed another new set of plugs with a
> higher
> heat range (RHM 40E) but that didn't help either. The ignition harness
> seems to be in good condition (the plane only has 150 hours since new but
> the mags and an engine rebuild in 1996).
> Then a couple of weeks ago I took the plane for about an hour flight
> each way and the engine miss was much worse.. dropped from 2,400 to almost
> 2,000 briefly a couple of times and then was normal the rest of the way
> back
> home, but really scared me. Back on the ground the engine runs smooth and
> the mag drops are 75 each left and right and starts easy. So, I'm
> concerned
> about flying cross country again till I find the engine miss problem.
>
> The magneto is a Bendix D 4RN - 3000. The Serial number is H 19608 GR and
> Part number is IO - 682555-14.
>
> Last week after chatting with a fellow at D&D magneto repair in Hobbs, New
> Mexico I took the mag and harness off and sent it to him to overhaul and
> replace the capacitors (Part number ES10-382807) to comply with CSB 662A.
> When I got the mag back it's internal timing was off (the number one
> cylinder lined up with the "B" index instead of the "K" like it should (so
> the rotor points to cylinder 3 when it should be cylinder 1). After I
> finally found this I decided to align the "B" and reinstalled the mag so
I
> could check to see if the original problem was fixed. Well.. it wasn't I
> still have the same problem but now I don't have confidence in the mag was
> rebuilt right so I don't know if I need to just replace it or look for
> something else like maybe in the valve train.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
09/07/2000 09:07:29 AM
Water.....believe it or not. When it cures I coulden't find
anything(chemical) to attack it.See my prior post.
Rvmils(at)AOL.COM@matronics.com on 09/06/2000 10:46:04 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Smooth Prime
What do you use to thinned it with?
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
09/07/2000 09:09:32 AM
Why are you wet sanding the primer ??
Jim Sears (at)matronics.com on 09/07/2000 05:25:20 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Jim Sears
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Smooth Prime
My experience with Smooth Prime was not good. I was given some
to try on mine by a KR-2 builder. He really likes the stuff. I liked
the
way it went on with the little roller. Then I did my sanding. I was
used to wet sanding everything; so, that's what I did. However, the
stuff would rise in tiny bubbles. I didn't dawn on me what was
happening, at first; but, I finally realized what it was. For me, the
bubbles would appear with water or thinner. I sanded all of it off the
cowl, wing tips, and gear fairings. After I had removed all of it, the
KR-2 builder told me I wasn't supposed to wet sand it. He had
called the manufacturer to find out. Nowhere in the manual could I
find that it couldn't be wet sanded. Not good.
After that experience, I tried PPG's fast fill primer called K36. That
stuff was wonderful to use. It could fill pin holes and would even fill
some irregularities. Even if I got a persistant pin hole, a touch with
the finger would get rid of it. The paint would just fill in behind it.
It was resistant to runs, too. I'll never use a water based primer again
when there's something on the market like K36.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)atmel.com> |
| Subject: | FW: RV-8A: Setting Ailerons in trail |
Dave & I just finished setting our ailerons/flaps in trail. Tried the
plywood template and found it much easier to use the tooling holes in the
wing and ailerons with a tight string. Worked well.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Kit Audio Panel |
We have been flying this panel for over 300 hours in our -6A and are very
pleased with it.
George and Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Setting Ailerons in trail |
Make sure the tooling holes are actually coincident with the wing chord.
Mine were off enough to make a difference.
Chris Browne
-6A finish
Atlanta
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Dave & I just finished setting our ailerons/flaps in trail. Tried the
> plywood template and found it much easier to use the tooling holes in the
> wing and ailerons with a tight string. Worked well.
>
> Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
> RV-8A
> Niantic, CT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing skeleton construction (6) |
A heartfelt thanks from me to all of you for this thread. I just finished
my main spars and I was getting ready to put them on the jig. Now I think
I'll build up the ribs off the jig then use it to true them up.
>From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, "Mike Nellis"
>To: ,
>Subject: Re: RV-List: wing skeleton construction (6)
>Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 22:13:43 -0400
>
>
>Bob,
>
>I am working on assembling the wing skeleton as we speak and I am doing
>mine
>on the workbench. I will drill and cleco the ribs on the workbench after
>careful measuring and locating of the rib locations. I called Vans the
>other day about an unrelated matter and we got to talking about this. I
>think it was Scott, but he said he's always puts the wings together before
>putting the spars in the jig. The jig will be used to true everything up
>and allow and easy way to mount the skins.
>
>I've just started documenting the wing assembly process and it can be seen
>here. There is no link yet on the main page. Click here.
>http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/wings_assembly.htm
>
>Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
>Plainfield, IL
>http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 8:46 PM
>Subject: RV-List: wing skeleton construction (6)
>
>
> >
> > guys, i see in orndorff videos, sam buch., and nearly all the homepages
>i
> > have visited that the ribs are attached on the jig, HOWEVER, the
>directions
> > say to do this on the workbench. am i missing something?
> > suggestions??????????? bob in ark, thanx in advance
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic Tailwheel |
In a message dated 9/6/00 3:17:50 PM Central Daylight Time,
don_mei(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I was wondering if any of you are still running the Andair pneumatic
tailwheel. >>
I'm still running one on my RV-4. I always kept close to 70# of air
pressure and have had no "going flat" problems. I did find it surprising
that Andair did not have any pneumatic tires with them at OshKosh. However
they claimed to still be selling and supporting same.
Steve Schmitz
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcAYhgxRXBL/fZfEQoe3MYbLwAt2YwAW6X+g
Thread-Topic: RV-List: wing skeleton construction (6)
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
| Subject: | wing skeleton construction (6) |
Let me put some "twist" (no pun intended) into putting together the wing
skeleton on the bench...avoid drilling the reinforcing angles that
attach to the ribs until you have everything on the jig. I predrilled
the angles on the bench, attached them with the AN-3 bolts through the
spar, mounted the wing in the jig, installed/leveled everything
including the leading edge ribs. Then, I drilled through the predrilled
holes in the angles into the ribs. You will find that to get really
good alignment of the leading edge ribs the spar has to twist a very
slight amount; if the main ribs are already drilled/clecoed to the
angles the wing will not twist even a slight amount to align the leading
edge ribs and you will not get a good fit when you skin the leading
edges/tanks. When I followed this on the second wing, everything--skins
and all--fit nearly perfectly.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 33 hours
down for electronic ignition install
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis [mailto:mnellis(at)emailusa.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wing skeleton construction (6)
Bob,
I am working on assembling the wing skeleton as we speak and I am doing
mine
on the workbench. I will drill and cleco the ribs on the workbench
after
careful measuring and locating of the rib locations. I called Vans the
other day about an unrelated matter and we got to talking about this. I
think it was Scott, but he said he's always puts the wings together
before
putting the spars in the jig. The jig will be used to true everything
up
and allow and easy way to mount the skins.
I've just started documenting the wing assembly process and it can be
seen
here. There is no link yet on the main page. Click here.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/RV-6_Page/wings_assembly.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 8:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing skeleton construction (6)
>
> guys, i see in orndorff videos, sam buch., and nearly all the
homepages i
> have visited that the ribs are attached on the jig, HOWEVER, the
directions
> say to do this on the workbench. am i missing something?
> suggestions??????????? bob in ark, thanx in advance
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
To those who made it to Homecoming,
I haven't heard any pilot reports about Homecoming.
Anything interesting happen? How was the weather?
My father and I scrubbed due to the weather forcast. At least 4 others from the
area scrubbed as well, but I know at least 4 others from here made it. I also
saw that Brian Denk (great paint job Brian!) got stuck at Madera. I guess
it ended up being a good decision even though some others made it.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 78 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
SoCal (Simi Valley)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
>This also happened to me on an engine from Bart but I discovered the
problem
>when installing the starter. Aero Sport corrected the problem as soon as I
>informed them.
Just want to reiterate that, the subject line notwithstanding, this is NOT a
Bart Lalonde problem, nor is it even limited to overhauled engines per se.
Brent's engine was factory NEW from Vans, and the starter had the correct
part number for the engine, but the wrong Bendix gear. This happened to
another local RV-6 builder about a year ago, also on a factory new engine
with a factory installed started. Ken wrote an article in the RVator about
it 6 or 8 months ago. Apparently Sky-Tek has shipped out some starters with
the wrong gear on them, so even though the part number is right, the starter
is WRONG. In one case, it just chewed up the ring gear. In Brent's case, the
starter casting broke and the starter FELL OFF and was hanging by its wire.
He was lucky it didn't swing into the prop.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
>This also happened to me on an engine from Bart but I discovered the
problem
>when installing the starter. Aero Sport corrected the problem as soon as I
>informed them.
Just want to reiterate that, the subject line notwithstanding, this is NOT a
Bart Lalonde problem, nor is it even limited to overhauled engines per se.
Brent's engine was factory NEW from Vans, and the starter had the correct
part number for the engine, but the wrong Bendix gear. This happened to
another local RV-6 builder about a year ago, also on a factory new engine
with a factory installed started. Ken wrote an article in the RVator about
it 6 or 8 months ago. Apparently Sky-Tek has shipped out some starters with
the wrong gear on them, so even though the part number is right, the starter
is WRONG. In one case, it just chewed up the ring gear. In Brent's case, the
starter casting broke and the starter FELL OFF and was hanging by its wire.
He was lucky it didn't swing into the prop.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
>This also happened to me on an engine from Bart but I discovered the
problem
>when installing the starter. Aero Sport corrected the problem as soon as I
>informed them.
Just want to reiterate that, the subject line notwithstanding, this is NOT a
Bart Lalonde problem, nor is it even limited to overhauled engines per se.
Brent's engine was factory NEW from Vans, and the starter had the correct
part number for the engine, but the wrong Bendix gear. This happened to
another local RV-6 builder about a year ago, also on a factory new engine
with a factory installed started. Ken wrote an article in the RVator about
it 6 or 8 months ago. Apparently Sky-Tek has shipped out some starters with
the wrong gear on them, so even though the part number is right, the starter
is WRONG. In one case, it just chewed up the ring gear. In Brent's case, the
starter casting broke and the starter FELL OFF and was hanging by its wire.
He was lucky it didn't swing into the prop.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Accessories Catalog in PDF Format |
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC"
Anybody know where I might find Van's Accessories catalog on his web site,
or for that matter, if it's available.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV
E. Windsor, Ct. 06088
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
>This also happened to me on an engine from Bart but I discovered the
problem
>when installing the starter. Aero Sport corrected the problem as soon as I
>informed them.
Just want to reiterate that, the subject line notwithstanding, this is NOT a
Bart Lalonde problem, nor is it even limited to overhauled engines per se.
Brent's engine was factory NEW from Vans, and the starter had the correct
part number for the engine, but the wrong Bendix gear. This happened to
another local RV-6 builder about a year ago, also on a factory new engine
with a factory installed started. Ken wrote an article in the RVator about
it 6 or 8 months ago. Apparently Sky-Tek has shipped out some starters with
the wrong gear on them, so even though the part number is right, the starter
is WRONG. In one case, it just chewed up the ring gear. In Brent's case, the
starter casting broke and the starter FELL OFF and was hanging by its wire.
He was lucky it didn't swing into the prop.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
> PPG K36 is the "Finest Primer" I have ever used( in that as you
will
> note on the instructions) it can be thinned to fill or just cover. Another
> feature of the primer is it requires no sealer between it and the paint
> since it is actually a primer/sealer.
> Biggest problem with the waterborne paints\primers is
> durability,touch-up and that WET LOOK show finish. Remember to not only
wet
> sand your primer but also block sand using a guide coat to show all low
> spots.
In defense of Smooth Prime, now called "UV Smooth Prime", remember that it
contains UV blockers that are essential for preventing sun damage and
deterioration of the underlying fiberglass parts, especially epoxy parts
such as the new S cowls, emp fairings, and spinners. I just ordered the tech
sheets on PPG K36, it is indeed an acrylic urethane based product (good),
but has no UV protection (bad). I researched their K38 high-build primer as
an alternative to Smooth Prime and learned it also has no UV protection
whatsoever. For those interested, all the PPG stuff can be downloaded at
www.ppgrefinish.com, or via their faxback system at 800-450-2654. BTW,
Smooth Prime is also a sealer allowing direct application of the topcoat.
Smooth Prime is intended to be dry sanded exclusively. We should not judge
this product on the experience of one person who sanded it incorrectly.
Smooth Prime is a polyurethane product and as such is likely to be far more
durable than any of the polyester filler/primers. Don't be misled by the
fact that it is water-based - all H2o completely evaporates leaving a
completely chemically crosslinked substance. That, combined with it's UV
blocking characteristics, combined with it's great dry sandability
properties make it the top choice in my book.
Frankly I'd love to use K36 or K38 as a less expensive alternative and
readily available alternative to Smooth Prime, but neither K36 or K38, which
would also be very compatible with the PPG Concept I will be using as a
topcoat, have the UV protection. Am I mistaken, or is UV protection
important for the epoxy parts we're using? Anyone have an alternative?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (about to prime)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic Tailwheel |
> << I was wondering if any of you are still running the Andair pneumatic
> tailwheel. >>
>
> I'm still running one on my RV-4. I always kept close to 70# of air
> pressure and have had no "going flat" problems. I did find it surprising
> that Andair did not have any pneumatic tires with them at OshKosh. However
> they claimed to still be selling and supporting same.
> Steve Schmitz
Even though I bought one of the Andair pneumatic tailwheels at OSH last
year, based on the experience of several listers I'm not sure I have the
confidence to actually use it in daily flying. Aha, I believe I have another
alternative! Go-Peds use a solid rubber wheel that is similar in size and
shape to what we need for a tailwheel. The standard Go-Ped wheel is black
plastic and probably not strong enough, but the aftermarket is now offering
billet wheels using the same solid rubber tire. This looks like a great
solution to me. I just bought a Go-Ped for my daughter and I (really fun!)
and will take a wheel off soon to see if it fits the standard tailwheel
axle/bolt. If so then any one of the aftermarket billet styles would work
great. I'll report back to the list in a few days after checking it out. In
the mean time you can check out one of the leading suppliers of these billet
wheels at www.enginetrix.com/goped-customparts.htm. They even make them in
several anodized colors!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Accessories catalog in .PDF format |
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC"
Guess I should be more clear. I'm looking for the accessories catalog in
.pdf format so I can down load it into my home computer. Does it exist, and
if so where...
Fred Stucklen
N925RV
E. Windsor, Ct. 06088
writes:
>
>
>
> Anybody know where I might find Van's Accessories catalog on his web
> site,
> or for that matter, if it's available.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> N925RV
> E. Windsor, Ct. 06088
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
I suspect he was wet sanding the primer to give a really smooth finish.
I've painted a lot of fiberglass and we always wet sanded the primer. The
finish is mirror perfect afterwards with no ill effects provided you didn't
wait until the next week to paint.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <pcondon(at)csc.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Smooth Prime
>
> Why are you wet sanding the primer ??
>
>
> Jim Sears (at)matronics.com on 09/07/2000 05:25:20 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Jim Sears
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> To: rv-list
> cc:
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Smooth Prime
>
>
> My experience with Smooth Prime was not good. I was given some
> to try on mine by a KR-2 builder. He really likes the stuff. I liked
> the
> way it went on with the little roller. Then I did my sanding. I was
> used to wet sanding everything; so, that's what I did. However, the
> stuff would rise in tiny bubbles. I didn't dawn on me what was
> happening, at first; but, I finally realized what it was. For me, the
> bubbles would appear with water or thinner. I sanded all of it off the
> cowl, wing tips, and gear fairings. After I had removed all of it, the
> KR-2 builder told me I wasn't supposed to wet sand it. He had
> called the manufacturer to find out. Nowhere in the manual could I
> find that it couldn't be wet sanded. Not good.
>
> After that experience, I tried PPG's fast fill primer called K36. That
> stuff was wonderful to use. It could fill pin holes and would even fill
> some irregularities. Even if I got a persistant pin hole, a touch with
> the finger would get rid of it. The paint would just fill in behind it.
> It was resistant to runs, too. I'll never use a water based primer again
> when there's something on the market like K36.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC"
| Subject: | Re: Accessories catalog in .PDF format |
Sure...just go to Van's web page...Van's Aircraft.com and you can click on
the accessory "link": and download the entire catalog in pdf form...John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> The pilot stated that while on final approach to runway 36, he
> maintained
> about 80 mph until clear of the trees at the end of the runway. He
> then
> reduced engine power and descended toward the runway. The left wing
> dropped
> down between 20-30 degrees, and he applied right aileron control and
> engine
> power in an attempt to correct the left roll. The engine did not seem
> to
> respond and the aircraft remained in the left roll. The aircraft
> descended
> nose down, left wing down, and collided with the runway.
70 - 80 MPH impacting from perhaps 50 feet, in a roll? 2 uninjured?
These things are better than Volvos!
:)
I'd like to see a picture of _his_ G-meter!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | UV protection/K 36 primer |
Randy,
UV will degrade the epoxy over time, but it's a very minor issue with the RV parts.
It's important on structural load caring components where the stress calculations
are done based on the strength of the material (in this case fiberglass)
and the matrix that holds it together. If the matrix deteriorates to the
point where it won't hold the fibers in place under stress, particularly compression,
that's bad.
The good news is that there are no parts on the RV that are load bearing components
where the part is stressed anywhere near what would be considered critical.
An interesting side note. I just asked a friend here at work who was employed
at Scaled Composites and who also built 2 EZ's, about what they did for UV protection.
He said they used to use a black primer to protect against UV, but later
found out that most new paints protect against UV and have since eliminated
using the UV base coats.
If they don't worry about, I'm not going to.
BTW, I recommend K36 for my Composite panels that I sell. That gray cowling you
saw on my RV-6 up at Arlington was K36 . I love the stuff. It's way better
than the old lacquer primers because they don't shrink up as much after they've
cured. And it cures up very quickly.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 72 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
> PPG K36 is the "Finest Primer" I have ever used( in that as you
will
> note on the instructions) it can be thinned to fill or just cover. Another
> feature of the primer is it requires no sealer between it and the paint
> since it is actually a primer/sealer.
> Biggest problem with the waterborne paints\primers is
> durability,touch-up and that WET LOOK show finish. Remember to not only
wet
> sand your primer but also block sand using a guide coat to show all low
> spots.
Randy wrote:
In defense of Smooth Prime, now called "UV Smooth Prime", remember that it
contains UV blockers that are essential for preventing sun damage and
deterioration of the underlying fiberglass parts, especially epoxy parts
such as the new S cowls, emp fairings, and spinners. I just ordered the tech
sheets on PPG K36, it is indeed an acrylic urethane based product (good),
but has no UV protection (bad). I researched their K38 high-build primer as
an alternative to Smooth Prime and learned it also has no UV protection
whatsoever. For those interested, all the PPG stuff can be downloaded at
www.ppgrefinish.com, or via their faxback system at 800-450-2654. BTW,
Smooth Prime is also a sealer allowing direct application of the topcoat.
Smooth Prime is intended to be dry sanded exclusively. We should not judge
this product on the experience of one person who sanded it incorrectly.
Smooth Prime is a polyurethane product and as such is likely to be far more
durable than any of the polyester filler/primers. Don't be misled by the
fact that it is water-based - all H2o completely evaporates leaving a
completely chemically crosslinked substance. That, combined with it's UV
blocking characteristics, combined with it's great dry sandability
properties make it the top choice in my book.
Frankly I'd love to use K36 or K38 as a less expensive alternative and
readily available alternative to Smooth Prime, but neither K36 or K38, which
would also be very compatible with the PPG Concept I will be using as a
topcoat, have the UV protection. Am I mistaken, or is UV protection
important for the epoxy parts we're using? Anyone have an alternative?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (about to prime)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UV protection/K 36 primer |
WRT, PPG K-36. There is no UV protection in PPG primers or their DP epoxy line.
All the UV protection is in the clear coat of their Base/Clear system.
Bruce
Glasair III
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Randy,
>
> UV will degrade the epoxy over time, but it's a very minor issue with the RV
parts. It's important on structural load caring components where the stress calculations
are done based on the strength of the material (in this case fiberglass)
and the matrix that holds it together. If the matrix deteriorates to the
point where it won't hold the fibers in place under stress, particularly compression,
that's bad.
>
> The good news is that there are no parts on the RV that are load bearing components
where the part is stressed anywhere near what would be considered critical.
>
> An interesting side note. I just asked a friend here at work who was employed
at Scaled Composites and who also built 2 EZ's, about what they did for UV protection.
He said they used to use a black primer to protect against UV, but
later found out that most new paints protect against UV and have since eliminated
using the UV base coats.
>
> If they don't worry about, I'm not going to.
>
> BTW, I recommend K36 for my Composite panels that I sell. That gray cowling
you saw on my RV-6 up at Arlington was K36 . I love the stuff. It's way better
than the old lacquer primers because they don't shrink up as much after they've
cured. And it cures up very quickly.
>
> Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 72 hrs
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> Simi Valley, SoCal
>
>
> > PPG K36 is the "Finest Primer" I have ever used( in that as you
> will
> > note on the instructions) it can be thinned to fill or just cover. Another
> > feature of the primer is it requires no sealer between it and the paint
> > since it is actually a primer/sealer.
> > Biggest problem with the waterborne paints\primers is
> > durability,touch-up and that WET LOOK show finish. Remember to not only
> wet
> > sand your primer but also block sand using a guide coat to show all low
> > spots.
>
> Randy wrote:
>
> In defense of Smooth Prime, now called "UV Smooth Prime", remember that it
> contains UV blockers that are essential for preventing sun damage and
> deterioration of the underlying fiberglass parts, especially epoxy parts
> such as the new S cowls, emp fairings, and spinners. I just ordered the tech
> sheets on PPG K36, it is indeed an acrylic urethane based product (good),
> but has no UV protection (bad). I researched their K38 high-build primer as
> an alternative to Smooth Prime and learned it also has no UV protection
> whatsoever. For those interested, all the PPG stuff can be downloaded at
> www.ppgrefinish.com, or via their faxback system at 800-450-2654. BTW,
> Smooth Prime is also a sealer allowing direct application of the topcoat.
>
> Smooth Prime is intended to be dry sanded exclusively. We should not judge
> this product on the experience of one person who sanded it incorrectly.
> Smooth Prime is a polyurethane product and as such is likely to be far more
> durable than any of the polyester filler/primers. Don't be misled by the
> fact that it is water-based - all H2o completely evaporates leaving a
> completely chemically crosslinked substance. That, combined with it's UV
> blocking characteristics, combined with it's great dry sandability
> properties make it the top choice in my book.
>
> Frankly I'd love to use K36 or K38 as a less expensive alternative and
> readily available alternative to Smooth Prime, but neither K36 or K38, which
> would also be very compatible with the PPG Concept I will be using as a
> topcoat, have the UV protection. Am I mistaken, or is UV protection
> important for the epoxy parts we're using? Anyone have an alternative?
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, cowling (about to prime)
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Kit Audio Panel |
GRAYK9(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone tried the kit audio panel from RST Engineering? If so how do you
> like it?
I built one... my notes on it are at
http://gringo.whanganui.ac.nz/personal/frankv/rv/bunny/audioi.htm
There's also a couple of photos there.
In summary, its a good kit. However, it might be overkill for an RV --
it supports 2 COM radios, has a speaker output, an Aux input (CD player
or whatever), plus a couple of other functions that I don't recall right
now.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Thu,
07 Sep 2000 15:39:38.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | UV protection in primer |
07 Sep 2000 15:39:38.-0400(at)matronics.com
Hey Randy, this is not a flame I'm trying to learn more about the paint world
too. I've restored my share of cars and have used most types of paint systems
now (laquer, acrylic enamel, acrylic urethane and polys). Your post is the first
time I have heard UV expressed as a desired trait of primer. Everything I have
ever heard and read has given primers one purpose; provide a long term adhesion
between the actual top coat and the surface being painted. The solids content in
the paint serves as the UV block, which in turn protects the primer.
If I had to make a choice between potential risks, as far as adhesion failure is
concerned. I would say you run a greater risk of failure from using an unknown
manufacturers product in your paint process than by sticking to only one
manufacturers product line and disregarding Smooth Primes claims about UV
protection. I can assure you, you can feel absolutely confident in the
durability of PPG's product line (as well as SW and DuPont) I recomend that
people don't get creative with their paint components but stay strictly within
a
manufacturers recomended products.
Eric Henson
Paint Junkie
"Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com> on 09/07/2000 01:35:26 PM
Please respond to "rv-list(at)matronics.com, \"Randy Lervold\""
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Smooth Prime
> PPG K36 is the "Finest Primer" I have ever used( in that as you
will
> note on the instructions) it can be thinned to fill or just cover. Another
> feature of the primer is it requires no sealer between it and the paint
> since it is actually a primer/sealer.
> Biggest problem with the waterborne paints\primers is
> durability,touch-up and that WET LOOK show finish. Remember to not only
wet
> sand your primer but also block sand using a guide coat to show all low
> spots.
In defense of Smooth Prime, now called "UV Smooth Prime", remember that it
contains UV blockers that are essential for preventing sun damage and
deterioration of the underlying fiberglass parts, especially epoxy parts
such as the new S cowls, emp fairings, and spinners. I just ordered the tech
sheets on PPG K36, it is indeed an acrylic urethane based product (good),
but has no UV protection (bad). I researched their K38 high-build primer as
an alternative to Smooth Prime and learned it also has no UV protection
whatsoever. For those interested, all the PPG stuff can be downloaded at
www.ppgrefinish.com, or via their faxback system at 800-450-2654. BTW,
Smooth Prime is also a sealer allowing direct application of the topcoat.
Smooth Prime is intended to be dry sanded exclusively. We should not judge
this product on the experience of one person who sanded it incorrectly.
Smooth Prime is a polyurethane product and as such is likely to be far more
durable than any of the polyester filler/primers. Don't be misled by the
fact that it is water-based - all H2o completely evaporates leaving a
completely chemically crosslinked substance. That, combined with it's UV
blocking characteristics, combined with it's great dry sandability
properties make it the top choice in my book.
Frankly I'd love to use K36 or K38 as a less expensive alternative and
readily available alternative to Smooth Prime, but neither K36 or K38, which
would also be very compatible with the PPG Concept I will be using as a
topcoat, have the UV protection. Am I mistaken, or is UV protection
important for the epoxy parts we're using? Anyone have an alternative?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (about to prime)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard White" <chiefs(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kit Audio Panel |
I bought an RST intercom. I didn't get all the parts that I should have,
and never got the replacement parts. Don't expect any product support of
any kind.
Dick White
RV-8 QB engine
Newport, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank and Dorothy" <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Kit Audio Panel
>
> GRAYK9(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> >
> > Has anyone tried the kit audio panel from RST Engineering? If so how do
you
> > like it?
>
> I built one... my notes on it are at
> http://gringo.whanganui.ac.nz/personal/frankv/rv/bunny/audioi.htm
>
> There's also a couple of photos there.
>
> In summary, its a good kit. However, it might be overkill for an RV --
> it supports 2 COM radios, has a speaker output, an Aux input (CD player
> or whatever), plus a couple of other functions that I don't recall right
> now.
>
> Frank.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UV protection/K 36 primer |
> WRT, PPG K-36. There is no UV protection in PPG primers or their DP epoxy
line. All the UV protection is in the clear coat of their Base/Clear system.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
What about the opaque non-clearcoat colors?
Randy Lervold
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UV protection in primer |
> Hey Randy, this is not a flame I'm trying to learn more about the paint
world
> too. I've restored my share of cars and have used most types of paint
systems
> now (laquer, acrylic enamel, acrylic urethane and polys). Your post is the
first
> time I have heard UV expressed as a desired trait of primer. Everything I
have
> ever heard and read has given primers one purpose; provide a long term
adhesion
> between the actual top coat and the surface being painted. The solids
content in
> the paint serves as the UV block, which in turn protects the primer.
>
> If I had to make a choice between potential risks, as far as adhesion
failure is
> concerned. I would say you run a greater risk of failure from using an
unknown
> manufacturers product in your paint process than by sticking to only one
> manufacturers product line and disregarding Smooth Primes claims about UV
> protection. I can assure you, you can feel absolutely confident in the
> durability of PPG's product line (as well as SW and DuPont) I recomend
that
> people don't get creative with their paint components but stay strictly
within a
> manufacturers recomended products.
>
> Eric Henson
> Paint Junkie
Eric,
I'm just trying to learn myself and make the best decision possible. You
raise good points, and as I mentioned in my post I would DEFINITELY prefer
to remain within one product family. Laird pointed out that maybe worrying
about UV effects on epoxy on non-structural parts is a low priority issue...
maybe so.
Hmm, what to do now? I am very close to priming most of my fiberglass parts
and need to make a decision soon. Anyone out there had experience with K36
and/or K38? This is a valuable thread, let's hear from you.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, cowling (final stages thankfully)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime |
09/07/2000 02:30:51 PM
Regarding the UV protection. We could use the "silver coat" the
tube&fabric crowd use. Spraying a thin coat of aluiminum paint would
provide some measure of UV protection for the fiberglass.
"Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>@matronics.com on 09/07/2000 01:35:26 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Randy Lervold"
<randy@rv-8.com>
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Smooth Prime
> PPG K36 is the "Finest Primer" I have ever used( in that as you
will
> note on the instructions) it can be thinned to fill or just cover.
Another
> feature of the primer is it requires no sealer between it and the paint
> since it is actually a primer/sealer.
> Biggest problem with the waterborne paints\primers is
> durability,touch-up and that WET LOOK show finish. Remember to not only
wet
> sand your primer but also block sand using a guide coat to show all low
> spots.
In defense of Smooth Prime, now called "UV Smooth Prime", remember that it
contains UV blockers that are essential for preventing sun damage and
deterioration of the underlying fiberglass parts, especially epoxy parts
such as the new S cowls, emp fairings, and spinners. I just ordered the
tech
sheets on PPG K36, it is indeed an acrylic urethane based product (good),
but has no UV protection (bad). I researched their K38 high-build primer as
an alternative to Smooth Prime and learned it also has no UV protection
whatsoever. For those interested, all the PPG stuff can be downloaded at
www.ppgrefinish.com, or via their faxback system at 800-450-2654. BTW,
Smooth Prime is also a sealer allowing direct application of the topcoat.
Smooth Prime is intended to be dry sanded exclusively. We should not judge
this product on the experience of one person who sanded it incorrectly.
Smooth Prime is a polyurethane product and as such is likely to be far more
durable than any of the polyester filler/primers. Don't be misled by the
fact that it is water-based - all H2o completely evaporates leaving a
completely chemically crosslinked substance. That, combined with it's UV
blocking characteristics, combined with it's great dry sandability
properties make it the top choice in my book.
Frankly I'd love to use K36 or K38 as a less expensive alternative and
readily available alternative to Smooth Prime, but neither K36 or K38,
which
would also be very compatible with the PPG Concept I will be using as a
topcoat, have the UV protection. Am I mistaken, or is UV protection
important for the epoxy parts we're using? Anyone have an alternative?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling (about to prime)
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UV protection/K 36 primer |
To those interested in this thread:
I just got off the phone with my local body shop supplier where I have been
buying all my PPG products. Here is some additional information...
***K36 vs. K38***
K38 is a newer product than K36 and this shop expects K36 to be phased out
over the next few years. K38 is also an acrylic urethane. He confirmed that
neither of these products have any UV protection. He says they both "build"
in a similar way and are both very high quality products. K38 is slightly
more expesive (figures) at around $118/gal. plus hardener.
***UV protection provided by paint***
Surprise, contrary to what I've heard elsewhere, PPG Concept DOES provide a
fair amount of UV protection. He says reds are the worst, but with a
reasonable coating thickness quite a bit of UV protection is provided by all
colors. PPG clearcoats provide even more UV protection, he says if the
unsprayed mixure looks slightly brown that is a good sign that your
clearcoat has UV protection. I'm using opaque colors so this doesn't help
me.
Conclusion:
I am buying a gallon of K38 and K201 hardener tomorrow and will abandon the
Smooth Prime. Thanks to all those who contributed to this topic, and I'd
still love to hear from anyone who has used K38.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, cowling
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barrys <barrys(at)viconet.com> |
| Subject: | 6hp campbell hausfiled 60 gallon air compressor |
A heads up.
Everyone in the ARCHIVES has been bragging about the 6hp
Campbell-Hausfield 60 gallon compressor.
To all those on the line that have postponed getting one from Home
Depot, they are discontinuing that model and selling at a Sale Price of
$349 in the NJ area.
They don't have many left. It is being replaced by their store brand
name: HUSKY.
Looks the same, but is painted red and goes for $399.
Barry Pote
n666bp reserved rv9a
(garage cleaned. building work benches. 6hp air compressor on my
trailer!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UV protection/K 36 primer |
I have seen an epoxy/fiberglass matrix almost completely devoid of the epoxy due
to exposure to uv. It would be best to be sure you have some type of uv protection.
A cowl with no epoxy left in the glass will not do the job even if it
is not structural. -- Art Glaser
"Owens, Laird" wrote:
>
> Randy,
>
> UV will degrade the epoxy over time, but it's a very minor issue with the RV
parts. It's important on structural load caring components where the stress calculations
are done based on the strength of the material (in this case fiberglass)
and the matrix that holds it together. If the matrix deteriorates to the
point where it won't hold the fibers in place under stress, particularly compression,
that's bad.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)avidyne.com> |
| Subject: | New SL-40 For Sale |
I bought a brand new SL-40 at Oshkosh year before last, and have changed my
panel around and don't need this radio. Still in the box with installation
kit and manual (untouched), never even powered up. This is a great radio -
built in intercom or cooler yet: you can listen to the standby frequency
without leaving your primary frequency. I'll sell it for $100 less than the
cheapest published price you can find anywhere (for a new unit) from a
legitimate dealer (so we're talking about $1000 here). I'll pay shipping.
More info on this great radio:
http://www.upsat.com/sl40des.html
http://www.tropicaero.com/sl40.htm
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit
Bedford, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
Laird,
I was at the Homecoming on Saturday. I was planning on writing up a
report for the List, but due to the weather, there wasn't a whole heck
of a lot to report. Whereas last year there were in excess of 150 RV's
that flew in, this year I did not see more than about 30.
There were second hand reports of people from all over who either got
weathered in enroute, or simply turned back and went home. On Saturday
morning, Van said there were a number of RV's at Hillsboro on the
Northeast side of Portland who were apparently not going to make the
short hop to Aurora due to very low ceilings. From the weather map, it
appeared that most of the Pacific Northwest was covered by inclement
weather, and to get to Aurora, a lot of people would have had to do some
long-distance scud-running. There were occasional showers at the Aurora
airport all day.
To their credit, the Blackjack Squadron showed up in spite of the
weather. They performed several impressive formation flyovers seemingly
just a few feet under a low, dark ceiling. Somehow it looked all the
more impressive seeing them flying just under the cloud deck.
In spite of the low turnout, it was still fun being there, and as usual,
there were some fascinating people to talk to. But overall it was a
fairly low level of activity compared to last year. Van's new facility
is fantastic, and it is quite spacious. Van said at the banquet
Saturday night that he personally is still filled with awe every time he
walks through the new place.
Speaking of the banquet, there were some very interesting talks after
dinner by Van, Ken Krueger, Ken Scott, Tom Green, Eustace Bowhay, and
Terry Jantzi. Van talked about the logistics of getting moved to the
new facility and trying to keep up with the demand for kits and parts at
the same time. Tom talked about how Van's is doing, businesswise. In
July, they had their biggest month ever, shipping 130 empennages out the
door, in addition to all the other kits, parts, and quickbuilds. Here's
a telling figure: Of those 130 empennages that were shipped, fully HALF
of those were RV-9A empennages. It looks like Van was dead-on in terms
of knowing there would be a market for the 9A.
Ken Krueger talked, among other things, about the much-rumored four
place RV. They are definitely going to do it, and they are already
establishing some of the preliminary design parameters on the computer.
It's going to be a low-wing configuration. They have thought a lot
about whether it should have doors, like a Piper or a Bonanza, or a
sliding canopy like a Navion. What they are leaning towards right now
is gull-wing doors like a Wheeler Express. But it's not going to happen
right away, simply because they have other things that have to get done
first, like designing a Quickbuild kit for the 9A.
Eustace Bowhay gave a very interesting report on helping Jon Johanson
with his epic flight over the North Pole this year. I was not fully
aware of the logistical support needed for such a venture. For one
thing, there is no 100 octane avgas available anywhere near the arctic
circle in Canada. Everything that is operated up there is turbine, so
only jet fuel is available. Eustace had to do a lot of calling around
before he located one barrel of avgas that had been left by an
oil-drilling operation. Then he had to arrange for it to be flown in to
Eureka, on the Arctic Circle, where Jon would be taking off for his
flight over the Polar ice cap. Eustace was able to buy the gas for
pretty cheap, but by the time it was transported to Eureka, the cost of
that one barrel of gas was about $1200. I had a pleasant chat with
Eustace afterwards. I was honored and humbled to be in his presence, as
he has forgotten more about flying than I will ever know. Eustace is a
true gentleman, and one of the great ambassadors of the RV movement.
Terri Jantzi gave a brief report of the altitude record he attained in
his RV-6 last winter over Ontario, Canada. He reached a height of
26,400 feet, which I believe is the record for a normally-aspirated
single-engine airplane. I spent some time chatting with Terry earlier
that day. His airplane is beautiful inside and out. I was going to say
that it looks like a factory-built aircraft, except that factory
airplanes don't look this good. Terry showed me photographs taken from
the cockpit during his altitude record, and also some stunning photos
taken during a recent flight he made with his daughter across the Hudson
Strait to Baffin Island in the frozen Northeastern part of of Canada.
Van's as a company is justifiably proud of their new facility, their
booming business, and their leading position in the kit plane market.
Yet, Van the man said that more than anything, every time another RV
takes to the sky, he feels immensely proud of the builder, and he feels
great pride in the airplane that builder has successfully completed. I
was genuinely touched by this perspective.
Well, this turned out to be something of a Homecoming report after all.
Sorry guys, I guess I just got carried away. I won't let it happen
again, I promise! At least, not until next year, that is. :-)
George True
Owens, Laird wrote:
>
> To those who made it to Homecoming,
>
> I haven't heard any pilot reports about Homecoming.
>
> Anything interesting happen? How was the weather?
>
> My father and I scrubbed due to the weather forcast. At least 4 others from
the area scrubbed as well, but I know at least 4 others from here made it. I
also saw that Brian Denk (great paint job Brian!) got stuck at Madera. I guess
it ended up being a good decision even though some others made it.
>
> Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 78 hrs
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> SoCal (Simi Valley)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Great report George--can't wait till I have stories of my own to tell.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of George True
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Homecoming?
Laird,
I was at the Homecoming on Saturday. I was planning on writing up a
report for the List, but due to the weather, there wasn't a whole heck
of a lot to report. Whereas last year there were in excess of 150 RV's
that flew in, this year I did not see more than about 30.
There were second hand reports of people from all over who either got
weathered in enroute, or simply turned back and went home. On Saturday
morning, Van said there were a number of RV's at Hillsboro on the
Northeast side of Portland who were apparently not going to make the
short hop to Aurora due to very low ceilings. From the weather map, it
appeared that most of the Pacific Northwest was covered by inclement
weather, and to get to Aurora, a lot of people would have had to do some
long-distance scud-running. There were occasional showers at the Aurora
airport all day.
To their credit, the Blackjack Squadron showed up in spite of the
weather. They performed several impressive formation flyovers seemingly
just a few feet under a low, dark ceiling. Somehow it looked all the
more impressive seeing them flying just under the cloud deck.
In spite of the low turnout, it was still fun being there, and as usual,
there were some fascinating people to talk to. But overall it was a
fairly low level of activity compared to last year. Van's new facility
is fantastic, and it is quite spacious. Van said at the banquet
Saturday night that he personally is still filled with awe every time he
walks through the new place.
Speaking of the banquet, there were some very interesting talks after
dinner by Van, Ken Krueger, Ken Scott, Tom Green, Eustace Bowhay, and
Terry Jantzi. Van talked about the logistics of getting moved to the
new facility and trying to keep up with the demand for kits and parts at
the same time. Tom talked about how Van's is doing, businesswise. In
July, they had their biggest month ever, shipping 130 empennages out the
door, in addition to all the other kits, parts, and quickbuilds. Here's
a telling figure: Of those 130 empennages that were shipped, fully HALF
of those were RV-9A empennages. It looks like Van was dead-on in terms
of knowing there would be a market for the 9A.
Ken Krueger talked, among other things, about the much-rumored four
place RV. They are definitely going to do it, and they are already
establishing some of the preliminary design parameters on the computer.
It's going to be a low-wing configuration. They have thought a lot
about whether it should have doors, like a Piper or a Bonanza, or a
sliding canopy like a Navion. What they are leaning towards right now
is gull-wing doors like a Wheeler Express. But it's not going to happen
right away, simply because they have other things that have to get done
first, like designing a Quickbuild kit for the 9A.
Eustace Bowhay gave a very interesting report on helping Jon Johanson
with his epic flight over the North Pole this year. I was not fully
aware of the logistical support needed for such a venture. For one
thing, there is no 100 octane avgas available anywhere near the arctic
circle in Canada. Everything that is operated up there is turbine, so
only jet fuel is available. Eustace had to do a lot of calling around
before he located one barrel of avgas that had been left by an
oil-drilling operation. Then he had to arrange for it to be flown in to
Eureka, on the Arctic Circle, where Jon would be taking off for his
flight over the Polar ice cap. Eustace was able to buy the gas for
pretty cheap, but by the time it was transported to Eureka, the cost of
that one barrel of gas was about $1200. I had a pleasant chat with
Eustace afterwards. I was honored and humbled to be in his presence, as
he has forgotten more about flying than I will ever know. Eustace is a
true gentleman, and one of the great ambassadors of the RV movement.
Terri Jantzi gave a brief report of the altitude record he attained in
his RV-6 last winter over Ontario, Canada. He reached a height of
26,400 feet, which I believe is the record for a normally-aspirated
single-engine airplane. I spent some time chatting with Terry earlier
that day. His airplane is beautiful inside and out. I was going to say
that it looks like a factory-built aircraft, except that factory
airplanes don't look this good. Terry showed me photographs taken from
the cockpit during his altitude record, and also some stunning photos
taken during a recent flight he made with his daughter across the Hudson
Strait to Baffin Island in the frozen Northeastern part of of Canada.
Van's as a company is justifiably proud of their new facility, their
booming business, and their leading position in the kit plane market.
Yet, Van the man said that more than anything, every time another RV
takes to the sky, he feels immensely proud of the builder, and he feels
great pride in the airplane that builder has successfully completed. I
was genuinely touched by this perspective.
Well, this turned out to be something of a Homecoming report after all.
Sorry guys, I guess I just got carried away. I won't let it happen
again, I promise! At least, not until next year, that is. :-)
George True
Owens, Laird wrote:
>
> To those who made it to Homecoming,
>
> I haven't heard any pilot reports about Homecoming.
>
> Anything interesting happen? How was the weather?
>
> My father and I scrubbed due to the weather forcast. At least 4 others
from the area scrubbed as well, but I know at least 4 others from here made
it. I also saw that Brian Denk (great paint job Brian!) got stuck at
Madera. I guess it ended up being a good decision even though some others
made it.
>
> Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 78 hrs
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> SoCal (Simi Valley)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | flap brace trimming |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm hanging a flap on my -6A QB, and am at the stage of trimming the flap
brace to clear the spar support flange. After the initial trim, it's pretty
obvious that when I finish trimming there's not going to be much flange left
on the flap brace at the most trimmed end (next to the cutout for the stepup
to the spar support), leaving little space for rivets. Scott at Van's says
it's typical that there's 8-9" of the brace that aren't riveted, but the
depiction in the manual looks like there are rivets just about all the way
to the trimmed end. Scott also said that he'd send a drawing by fax showing
what he's talking about, but, well, he's a busy guy and I haven't gotten it
yet and I'm eager to move on.
I'd just like to hear what some of your experiences are with the flap brace
trim. I've studied the archive, etc., but haven't found any reference to
what Scott's talking about.
As always, thanks for your help.
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC, RV-6A QB, left wing
O-360 on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap brace trimming |
Robert Dickson wrote:
>
>
> I'm hanging a flap on my -6A QB, and am at the stage of trimming the flap
> brace to clear the spar support flange. After the initial trim, it's pretty
> obvious that when I finish trimming there's not going to be much flange left
> on the flap brace at the most trimmed end (next to the cutout for the stepup
> to the spar support), leaving little space for rivets. Scott at Van's says
> it's typical that there's 8-9" of the brace that aren't riveted, but the
> depiction in the manual looks like there are rivets just about all the way
> to the trimmed end. Scott also said that he'd send a drawing by fax showing
> what he's talking about, but, well, he's a busy guy and I haven't gotten it
> yet and I'm eager to move on.
>
> I'd just like to hear what some of your experiences are with the flap brace
> trim. I've studied the archive, etc., but haven't found any reference to
> what Scott's talking about.
>
>
I put the rivets in just like the plans showed. Things get a little
tight and edge distances are violated. So far it works.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying 90 hrs
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turbine powered RV? |
In a message dated 9/7/2000 3:02:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
chiefs(at)teleport.com writes:
<< Not all is lost... there is a glasair with a verrryyy long nose that has a
chek turbin on it. I don't know if it has flown yet, but the builder said
he was going to limit the speed to 350 and it would burn around 30gph...
Dick White
RV-8QB engine parts..
Newport, OR
>>
its flown and so has a lanceair IV-P with the walter turbine thats derated to
600 hp. There was a big write up in kit planes on the glassair III. It
climbed out at like 10,000 fpm. Jeez and I thought my f1 would climb like a
rocket. Anyways if I remember right the fuel burn was like 60 gph though.
chris wilcox
f1 rocket #0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Tailwheel |
Why would a billet wheel be better
than Van's standard-issue tailwheel?
Larry Bowen
RV8- fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 1:51 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; RotaVR(at)AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pneumatic Tailwheel
> alternative! Go-Peds use a solid rubber wheel that is similar in size and
> shape to what we need for a tailwheel. The standard Go-Ped wheel is black
> plastic and probably not strong enough, but the aftermarket is
> now offering
> billet wheels using the same solid rubber tire. This looks like a great
> solution to me. I just bought a Go-Ped for my daughter and I (really fun!)
> and will take a wheel off soon to see if it fits the standard tailwheel
> axle/bolt. If so then any one of the aftermarket billet styles would work
> great. I'll report back to the list in a few days after checking
> it out. In
> the mean time you can check out one of the leading suppliers of
> these billet
> wheels at www.enginetrix.com/goped-customparts.htm. They even
> make them in
> several anodized colors!
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, cowling
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Problem's At Van's Because of move |
I thought I would off-set some of this whining
about service problems with some good news:
I ordered a small replacement part via Van's web
page after hours on 09.05.00. I requested it be
shipped FedEx 2-day. It was on my door step this
afternoon 09.07.00.
Thanks for the great service, Van!
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: HappyRVBuilder(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Concerned
> RvBuilder
> Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 5:00 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Problem's At Van's Because of move
>
>
>
>
> Ok, I understand that there is going to be problems when a major
> operation
> moves, but this is going on a little to long. Van's should have
> just shut
> down completly for a month or something. We were told that they
> would close
> for a few days and then reopen fully operational. Then it was
> posted that
> they would not be shipping orders for a week. Now people are being told
> that there orders may not go for a couple more weeks! I ordered on there
> website a next day air, called them up when It was 2 days late, got some
> rude guy on the phone that asked me what I wanted. I stated that I just
> want to check the status of my NDA, he just splurts out "It has
> not shipped
> and will not for a few weeks". Without looking up the order or nothing.
> What gives?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Austin;
Heres to you, your posting hit home with me, My dad is 76, He started flying
in 1945, I have his original pilots license in my log book for good luck. He
had to give up his beloved sport shortly after he met my mother and pretty
soon had 4 big mouths to feed. He never did start flying again after us 4
money drains moved out on our own. I just started flying myself two years
ago, and started building my own RV-9 in March this year. He has been very
excited about it , I sent him the video from Vans and all the brochures,ect.
My mother knows the tape word for word now just from background exposure. I
flew him to my house a short time ago to see what I had done so far. That was
the best day either one of us has ever had in each others company and was a
milestone in our lives.
I too am a paycheck to paycheck dreamer from several generations of such, and
now trying to interest my 20 year old daughter in aviation.
Just had to reply... happiness in flying to you.
Kevin
-9A waiting for fuse kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
i feel dumb for asking but... when fluting ribs is it correct that the
tooling holes must be used to line up for flute? if this is done then i must
turn some ribs over, mark, then flute, correct??? thanx, bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | repitching the Sensenich metal prop |
Due to the engine upgrade, new wheel pants, and gear fairings on 399SB,
I decided to repitch the prop. It was almost as if I was driving around
in third gear due to the recent mods, and it was apparent that more bite
in the prop was in order.
You can check it out here:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/fairings.htm#repitch
This is an addition to the page describing the Team Rocket gear
fairings.
I don't have good numbers yet, but the flight home this morning went
very well. By the time good numbers are recorded, I think the rebend
will prove to be quite beneficial.
Sam Buchanan, RV-6, just keeps getting faster... :-)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib flute |
It's not that critical Bob. Just align the rib with the outline on the
plans and you'll be fine.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 10:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing rib flute
>
> i feel dumb for asking but... when fluting ribs is it correct that the
> tooling holes must be used to line up for flute? if this is done then i
must
> turn some ribs over, mark, then flute, correct??? thanx, bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Problem's At Van's Because of move |
Larry and all,
I have to totally agree with you. I called Van's today and talked to the
shipping department, you know the one with all those evil people that slam the
phone down after saying the phrase "it will be there two or more weeks rather
you like it or not!!!" and give you that evil laugh "HAaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!". Well
this guy spent about fifteen minutes looking through all the orders that I have
placed in the last five weeks ( I think it totals about 10 ) and painstakingly
found the order I thought was lost, only to tell me that "it was in the mail".
My last words were "thanks for all the help" to which he replied "that's what
I'm here for".
Now maybe "that's what I'm here for" in evil talk really means "Die you evil
customer, Die! Die! Die!" but I don't think so ;-)
Thanks Van's for the good service in spite of the move!
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 ( sensenich )
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Error in wig/wag circuit . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Many thanks to reader Ken Brown for pointing out a fundamental
flaw in the way I wired the wig/wag circuit for Option 3.
A revised drawing has been uploaded for any interested parties
to download at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/aec_ww.pdf
Another reader, George Meketa, had another idea for a wig/wag
with some unique features and fewer switches on the panel.
Option 4 uses one, 3-position switch for OFF-TAXI-BOTH operation
of the landing and taxi lights. While in the BOTH position, pressing
a stick mounted push button produces wig/wag operation. The stick
mounted switch could also be a small toggle or rocker switch (the
current in this switch is 100 milliamperes) so that you don't
have to hold the button to keep the wig/wag functioning. Our
proposed AEC9020-1 flasher module will work with either option.
I've uploaded Option 4 to the website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/aec_ww2.pdf
Whilst you're peeking at our website, take a look at what is
probably the world's smallest VHF comm transceiver at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
We're out shopping for avionics which in my opinion have
a lot of bang for the buck . . . watch for other goodies
to show up there soon.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib flute |
now if the rib is turned over the flutes will be in different locations.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Tailwheel |
Steve,
How much difference in weight of the Andair tailwheel and the standard?
I could stand to loose a little weight in the tail too (on my 4 that is).
Chuck
-- Original Message -----
From: <RotaVR(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pneumatic Tailwheel
>
> In a message dated 9/6/00 3:17:50 PM Central Daylight Time,
> don_mei(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> << I was wondering if any of you are still running the Andair pneumatic
> tailwheel. >>
>
> I'm still running one on my RV-4. I always kept close to 70# of air
> pressure and have had no "going flat" problems. I did find it surprising
> that Andair did not have any pneumatic tires with them at OshKosh. However
> they claimed to still be selling and supporting same.
> Steve Schmitz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing rib flute |
Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> now if the rib is turned over the flutes will be in different locations.
>
> _
Bob, the drawing for the flutes works well for one wing by just laying
the rib down on the drawing with tooling holes matched and mark the
flute locations with a sharpie fine point marker. For the other wing
take one of the marked ribs and match it up with the opposite wing's
ribs and mark them. As I recall the rivet spacing is 1.25" for the wing
skins so placement of the flute does not have to all that critital, just
close.
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Kit Audio Panel |
Frank and Dorothy wrote:
> I built one... my notes on it are at
> http://gringo.whanganui.ac.nz/personal/frankv/rv/bunny/audioi.htm
Arrrgghhh!!!
That should read
http://gringo.whanganui.ac.nz/personal/frankv/rv/bunny/audio.htm
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap brace trimming |
Gary: I agree with you as my Flap Brace was attached per plans and Georges
Vidio with no problems. Working on Panel and Forward Fuselage Skin RV6-A-QB.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: flap brace trimming
>
> Robert Dickson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'm hanging a flap on my -6A QB, and am at the stage of trimming the
flap
> > brace to clear the spar support flange. After the initial trim, it's
pretty
> > obvious that when I finish trimming there's not going to be much flange
left
> > on the flap brace at the most trimmed end (next to the cutout for the
stepup
> > to the spar support), leaving little space for rivets. Scott at Van's
says
> > it's typical that there's 8-9" of the brace that aren't riveted, but the
> > depiction in the manual looks like there are rivets just about all the
way
> > to the trimmed end. Scott also said that he'd send a drawing by fax
showing
> > what he's talking about, but, well, he's a busy guy and I haven't gotten
it
> > yet and I'm eager to move on.
> >
> > I'd just like to hear what some of your experiences are with the flap
brace
> > trim. I've studied the archive, etc., but haven't found any reference to
> > what Scott's talking about.
> >
> >
> I put the rivets in just like the plans showed. Things get a little
> tight and edge distances are violated. So far it works.
> --
> Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
> RV-6A N99PZ Flying 90 hrs
> Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
> Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | OSWEGO NY RV FORUM and FLY-IN |
6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
September 30 - October 1, 2000
Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
KFZY
Just a Quick note on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and
Fly-in.
Link our web site:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
<http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
Please pre-registered so our hand outs and food counts are more accurate.
As in the past got lots of things planned.
Hope to see you there
Respectfully
David McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Jon has arrived in the Azores after a 13 hour uneventful flight. Is on his
way to the Canary Islands,about a five hour flight and the weather is good.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice or wrong bendix |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>>I have counted the teeth on the ring gear & checked the part number on
>>the starter. How would I find the wrong bendix? What would be right
>>for the 149 tooth gear. Are the teeth on the bendix differant?
>B&C's web site has a PDF document discussing the identification of ring
>gears & bendix units. Very good side-bar to B&C's starter selections.
Both pinion gears for Lycomings have 9 teeth but the pitch
diameter is different for 149/122 tooth engagement.
On the subject of starters . . . talked with B&C recently
and Bill says their sales of starters has been steadily
climbing in spite of the fact that they no longer run
any advertisements on it.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 09/07/2000 9:17:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Owens(at)aerovironment.com writes:
<< I haven't heard any pilot reports about Homecoming.
Anything interesting happen? How was the weather? >>
Laird and listers,
The homecoming was "different" than other years according to folks that had
been before. This was the first time on the "hard surface". The Blackjack
Squadron showed up as usual, the weather was intermittently disgusting. In
spite of the weather, alot of folks showed up. The banquet was nice and the
barbeque not quite as nice.(who likes cold ribs) But, the fellowship was
very nice, and alot of different panel ideas for me. As for myself, I didn't
leave for home until 2:30 p.m. on Monday cuz the weather needed time to clear
along my path. All in all, it was a nice time.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice |
>it 6 or 8 months ago. Apparently Sky-Tek has shipped out some starters with
>the wrong gear on them, so even though the part number is right, the starter
>is WRONG. In one case, it just chewed up the ring gear. In Brent's case, the
This sounds like a pretty big deal. Does anyone know of a list of serial
numbers that Sky-Tec has published that covers the offending units???
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 sensenich (85)
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
RV-List Digest List
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6hp campbell hausfiled 60 gallon air compressor |
I purchased the Husky unit (at the elevated price). It is made by Cambell
Hausfeld for Home Depot.
scot
>
>A heads up.
>
>Everyone in the ARCHIVES has been bragging about the 6hp
>Campbell-Hausfield 60 gallon compressor.
>
>To all those on the line that have postponed getting one from Home
>Depot, they are discontinuing that model and selling at a Sale Price of
>$349 in the NJ area.
>
>They don't have many left. It is being replaced by their store brand
>name: HUSKY.
>Looks the same, but is painted red and goes for $399.
>
>Barry Pote
>n666bp reserved rv9a
>(garage cleaned. building work benches. 6hp air compressor on my
>trailer!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Shower-o-sparks magneto wiring . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Don't know if it's the phase of the moon or el-nino effects
but I've had three requests in the last two days for info on
wiring a "vibrator" enhanced magneto . . . I've published a
wiring diagram on the website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help finding a digital level |
In a message dated 9/8/00 8:22:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I am having very little luck tracking down a source where I can buy a
digital leve >>
Home Depot, Sears, Avery and out here most hardware stores all carry them. I
have one that I've used a lot but I have also convinced myself that a good
quality bubble level is just as accurate for level and plumb readings. It's
in between that the digital is good.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers, and in particular, Electric Bob,
Electric Bob's post about the MicroAir 760 caught my attention and I
looked it up on Bobs AeroElectric website. http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
I have looked at the MicroAir 760 before and I am impressed by its size
and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
flying.
What say ye experts?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
>and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
>is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
Wimpy indeed. My SL-40 puts out 8 watts and even my hand held puts out 5. You
might be able to off set this with a better antenna ( something more efficient
then the quarter wave that most of us have ).
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 sensenich (85)
N89JA reserved
WB5JKB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | EAA Fly-In - Camden, SC |
If you live in the southeast and are looking for a place to visit this
weekend where RV's will be present, come to:
EAA Airfair 2000
Saturday, September 9th
Woodward Field - CDN
Camden, SC
There are no RV specific events, but a number are expected to be in
attendance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Just too much fun |
socal-rvlist(at)egroups.com, "Tom DeMarino"
Ok, so I was a little bored at work yesterday. Not that I didn't have work to do,
but my thoughts were outside with the clouds.
Ed Cole just happened to send me a note about one of my instrument panels, and
just by chance, Garry Legare had also sent me a note about testing with his 85"
Sensenich prop. Now both of the guys just happen to fly out of Reid-Hillview,
near San Jose. And Ken Kreuger had just happened to fly the RV-9a down for
the Golden State fly-in and the Thursday night RV builders meeting at Reid-Hillview.
Both Ed and Garry were going to be there so......
So about 2pm, it popped into my head.....Why not fly the RV up to Reid-Hillview
for the evening. Now I happen to live down in LA, (thanks for the sympathy),
so I pull out the WAC chart to see how far it would be. It looked like about
an hour and a half or so depending on winds. (Now the last time I drove up
there it took close to 8 hrs).
Let see....make up some lame excuse to leave work a little early.....preflight
the RV......and wheels up by 4:30. An hour and a half later I'm in the pattern
at Reid-Hillview. TOO COOL!
I get the chance to meet a lot of nice RV people, show off the RV, and talk with
Ed and Garry about some of the issues we were emailing about. (It's so much
nicer to talk with folks face to face). I also talked a little with Ken about
the RV-9A, and Harmon Lange (the gentleman that make out landing gears).
After Ken had talked a little about Homecoming, the new factory, and the RV-9a,
I preflighted the RV, got the maps and flight plan in order and headed off for
the night flight home. I had forgotten how nice flying at night is.
I was home by 11:00. On the flight home, I'm cruising at 9500 to clear some terrain
in nice smooth clear air thinking back about the whole process of building
my own airplane and how lucky I really am to be at this place in time.
I just couldn't help to giggle as I was closing up the hangar. Just 10 hours earlier
I was at work and thinking about the clouds. Now I had traveled 1/2 way
up the coast of California, hung out with some nice folks, and flown with the
clouds. Man....Is life good right now or what?
And to make a good night even better, I won a canopy cover as a door prize. I
don't think it gets any better that.
Keep pounding those rivets.....It's SOOOO worth it.
Happy flying,
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 80 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bart Lalonde Engine Advice or wrong bendix |
Don and all,
The RVator issue that discusses the starter problem is the fifth issue 1999.
They specifically mention Lycoming O-360 engines.
The magic numbers to look for are:
149 tooth ring gear needs ten or more teeth on the starter drive gear.
122 tooth ring gear needs nine teeth on the starter drive gear.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 sensenich (85)
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | Just too much fun |
socal-rvlist(at)egroups.com, "Tom DeMarino"
Ok, so I was a little bored at work yesterday. Not that I didn't have work to do,
but my thoughts were outside with the clouds.
Ed Cole just happened to send me a note about one of my instrument panels, and
just by chance, Garry Legare had also sent me a note about testing with his 85"
Sensenich prop. Now both of the guys just happen to fly out of Reid-Hillview,
near San Jose. And Ken Kreuger had just happened to fly the RV-9a down for
the Golden State fly-in and the Thursday night RV builders meeting at Reid-Hillview.
Both Ed and Garry were going to be there so......
So about 2pm, it popped into my head.....Why not fly the RV up to Reid-Hillview
for the evening. Now I happen to live down in LA, (thanks for the sympathy),
so I pull out the WAC chart to see how far it would be. It looked like about
an hour and a half or so depending on winds. (Now the last time I drove up
there it took close to 8 hrs).
Let see....make up some lame excuse to leave work a little early.....preflight
the RV......and wheels up by 4:30. An hour and a half later I'm in the pattern
at Reid-Hillview. TOO COOL!
I get the chance to meet a lot of nice RV people, show off the RV, and talk with
Ed and Garry about some of the issues we were emailing about. (It's so much
nicer to talk with folks face to face). I also talked a little with Ken about
the RV-9A, and Harmon Lange (the gentleman that make out landing gears).
After Ken had talked a little about Homecoming, the new factory, and the RV-9a,
I preflighted the RV, got the maps and flight plan in order and headed off for
the night flight home. I had forgotten how nice flying at night is.
I was home by 11:00. On the flight home, I'm cruising at 9500 to clear some terrain
in nice smooth clear air thinking back about the whole process of building
my own airplane and how lucky I really am to be at this place in time.
I just couldn't help to giggle as I was closing up the hangar. Just 10 hours earlier
I was at work and thinking about the clouds. Now I had traveled 1/2 way
up the coast of California, hung out with some nice folks, and flown with the
clouds. Man....Is life good right now or what?
And to make a good night even better, I won a canopy cover as a door prize. I
don't think it gets any better that.
Keep pounding those rivets.....It's SOOOO worth it.
Happy flying,
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 80 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Just too much fun |
Laird,
I loved reading your mini-report about flying up to the Golden West Fly-In. I
am so envious of you guys that have flying RV's. But I just love to hear your
stories, and to be reminded of the Grand Vision. Hearing of your experiences
will keep me and many others warm as we pound rivets during those long cold nights
this winter.
Keep those flying reports coming, guys. You don't know how much they sustain us
guys and gals who will still be building for awhile.
George True
Owens, Laird wrote:
>
> Ok, so I was a little bored at work yesterday. Not that I didn't have work to
do, but my thoughts were outside with the clouds.
>
> Ed Cole just happened to send me a note about one of my instrument panels, and
just by chance, Garry Legare had also sent me a note about testing with his
85" Sensenich prop. Now both of the guys just happen to fly out of Reid-Hillview,
near San Jose. And Ken Kreuger had just happened to fly the RV-9a down for
the Golden State fly-in and the Thursday night RV builders meeting at Reid-Hillview.
Both Ed and Garry were going to be there so......
>
> So about 2pm, it popped into my head.....Why not fly the RV up to Reid-Hillview
for the evening. Now I happen to live down in LA, (thanks for the sympathy),
so I pull out the WAC chart to see how far it would be. It looked like about
an hour and a half or so depending on winds. (Now the last time I drove up
there it took close to 8 hrs).
>
> Let see....make up some lame excuse to leave work a little early.....preflight
the RV......and wheels up by 4:30. An hour and a half later I'm in the pattern
at Reid-Hillview. TOO COOL!
>
> I get the chance to meet a lot of nice RV people, show off the RV, and talk with
Ed and Garry about some of the issues we were emailing about. (It's so much
nicer to talk with folks face to face). I also talked a little with Ken about
the RV-9A, and Harmon Lange (the gentleman that make out landing gears).
>
> After Ken had talked a little about Homecoming, the new factory, and the RV-9a,
I preflighted the RV, got the maps and flight plan in order and headed off
for the night flight home. I had forgotten how nice flying at night is.
>
> I was home by 11:00. On the flight home, I'm cruising at 9500 to clear some
terrain in nice smooth clear air thinking back about the whole process of building
my own airplane and how lucky I really am to be at this place in time.
>
> I just couldn't help to giggle as I was closing up the hangar. Just 10 hours
earlier I was at work and thinking about the clouds. Now I had traveled 1/2
way up the coast of California, hung out with some nice folks, and flown with
the clouds. Man....Is life good right now or what?
>
> And to make a good night even better, I won a canopy cover as a door prize.
I don't think it gets any better that.
>
> Keep pounding those rivets.....It's SOOOO worth it.
>
> Happy flying,
>
> Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 80 hrs
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> Simi Valley, SoCal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SCOTT D. MORGAN" <sdmorgan(at)prodigy.net> |
Charlie,
There was an informative article in either Kitplanes, Custom Plans, or Sport
Aviation a few months ago. The article, I seem to remember it was by Jim
Weir, tested the MicroAir 760 comparatively with 2-3 other units.
Surprisingly, the 4 watt output outperformed a higher power unit (6watts?).
Sorry I can't be more specific about which magazine it was in. Maybe
someone can post this information.
You'll be surprised at the review. This little unit is a powerhouse!
------Original Message------
From: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: September 8, 2000 5:20:39 PM GMT
Subject: RV-List: MicroAir 760
Listers, and in particular, Electric Bob,
Electric Bob's post about the MicroAir 760 caught my attention and I
looked it up on Bobs AeroElectric website.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
I have looked at the MicroAir 760 before and I am impressed by its size
and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
flying.
What say ye experts?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
The new 760 transceiver, due out soon, puts out 5 OR 10 watts -- if I'm reading
the info on their web site correctly. I'm going with a 760SLF transceiver and
their new xponder that also has a 2.25" footprint.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
--- Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
>
> >and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
> >is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
>
>
> Wimpy indeed. My SL-40 puts out 8 watts and even my hand held puts out 5.
> You
> might be able to off set this with a better antenna ( something more
> efficient
> then the quarter wave that most of us have ).
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( FWF )
> O-360 sensenich (85)
> N89JA reserved
> WB5JKB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Nichols <snichols(at)STATEENGINEERING.COM> |
| Subject: | Rv-4 wings and Tail for sale |
Listers,
I still have wings and tail for an RV-4 for sale. The wings are 75%
complete and the tail is 95% complete. The wing spar was built by
philogistan. I also have a fuselage jig (metal) and a wing jig that I
want to let go.
I have bought a Grumman and I don't care about building right now. I
will let everything go for $2,500. I will even help on shipping around
the Southeast.
This will be the cheapest way for someone to get into an Rv.
Please contact off-line.
Thanks,
Steve Nichols
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
>>and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
>>is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
>
>
>Wimpy indeed. My SL-40 puts out 8 watts and even my hand held puts out 5.
You
>might be able to off set this with a better antenna ( something more
efficient
>then the quarter wave that most of us have ).
All things being equal, the energy received at the end
of a communciations pathway varies inversely as the square
of distance + some small effects for loss though the
medium (atmosphere). Doubling your power output does not
double your range . . . all other things being equal it
increases it by about 35-40%
I have a two watt handheld transceiver which I can use to
communicate with an amateur radio repeater station 45 miles
away and 1200 feet up on a television tower. As long as
I'm in the clear (airplanes are always in the clear) the
communications quality is quite good.
If you held all other things constant . . . set your
distance from the other station until background noise
went away and increased your power from 4 to 8 watts,
the guy at the receiving end would just barely notice
the difference.
99% of my need to talk with anyone is within 30 miles of
the facility. Only on rare occasions have I found myself
trying to reach an RCO 60 miles away from an altitude of
5000' AGL . . . under these conditions, the difference between
4 and 10 watts probably wouldn't make much difference.
I recall times from my younger days when the debates raged
hot and heavy as to the superiority of the Chevy 409 versus
the 348 . . . the real difference in terms of time in the
quarter mile was perhaps 500 milliseconds out of a total
of 9 seconds.
If it were my airplane, I'd have no heartburn with a 4w
transceiver if the rest of the radio's features made it
a good value.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
>Listers, and in particular, Electric Bob,
>
>Electric Bob's post about the MicroAir 760 caught my attention and I
>looked it up on Bobs AeroElectric website.
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
>
>I have looked at the MicroAir 760 before and I am impressed by its size
>and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
>is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
>flying.
>
>What say ye experts?
>
I am no expert, but my many years in ham radio tell me there is no
significant difference betweeen 4 and 8 watts in a VHF aircraft radio.
If you consider the power alone that is 3 db, which could be just barely
discernable under perfect conditions but with VHF and a decent antenna it
is basically line-of-sight that determines whether you make contact or
not.
Power output is not something I would even consider when picking an
aircraft radio.
Hand held radios do not hold a candle to permanently installed ones, not
because of the power difference, but because of the tremendous difference
in antenna efficiency added to the shielding effect of being inside a
metal cage.
FWIW the MicroAir seems to have a good reputation in the glider
community, where it is widely used.
Larry Pardue, Amateur Radio Station N5LP
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
> > There was an informative article in either Kitplanes, Custom Plans,
> > or Sport
> > Aviation a few months ago. The article, I seem to remember it was
> > by Jim
> > Weir, tested the MicroAir 760 comparatively with 2-3 other units.
> > Surprisingly, the 4 watt output outperformed a higher power unit
> > (6watts?).
> >
> > Sorry I can't be more specific about which magazine it was in.
> > Maybe someone can post this information.
> >
> > You'll be surprised at the review. This little unit is a
> > powerhouse!
> ------Original Message------
> From: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
> To: RV List
> Sent: September 8, 2000 5:20:39 PM GMT
> Subject: RV-List: MicroAir 760
>
>
>
>
> Listers, and in particular, Electric Bob,
>
> Electric Bob's post about the MicroAir 760 caught my attention and I
> looked it up on Bobs AeroElectric website.
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
>
> I have looked at the MicroAir 760 before and I am impressed by its
> size
> and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking,
> this
> is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the
> flagpole
> flying.
>
> What say ye experts?
Well, no expert yet, but I have that radio up in the closet, awaiting
his turn for attention, along with all the rest of the panel
components.
That article was in Kitplanes - I can check the month tonight...
I liked its size and weight in particular. I have plans for the space
behind the sub-panel in my -6, so I wanted to keep all the instruments
between the panel and sub-panel.
The article is part of what cinched it for me - also they have some
pretty good articles on their web site.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
OH PLEASE don't get the wrong idea. I have been lusting after the MicroAir 760
ever since I saw the first picture of it. What a cool way to save panel space
and provide the much needed back up com unit. I ended up using a hand held as
my backup simply because I didn't want to waste the space.
But seriously folks, and certainly all you hams out there ( of which I have also
been for many many years ). If you have spent anytime at all on 2 meters ( line
of site stuff for all you non hams ) with a handy talky on a simplex ( direct )
channel with a high and low power setting you would know the importance and
benefit gained by being able to switch to high power when your out on the fringe
of the coverage area. I wish I had an nickel for all the times that I switched
from low to high power and had the ham on the other end say "that's MUCH
better". Were talking from 5 to 10 watts here. You can theorize till your blue
in the face, but as Electric Bob would say "facts is facts".
Now antenna, that's a BIG deal. The reason that hand helds perform so poorly is
that bed spring of an antenna that your transmitting into. All you have to do
in the cockpit to increase the coverage of your hand held dramatically is to
hook it up to your external antenna. Not rocket science.
I just love Friday afternoons ;-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 sensenich (85)
N89JA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Fw: Concorde Crash Analysis] |
THIS IS NOT RV RELATED BUT SHOULD BE OF INTEREST.
Colin Koebel wrote:
> ----------
> From: Robert Nishimura <rhnish(at)concentric.net>
> To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;@concentric.net;;;;;;;
> Subject: Fw: Concorde Crash Analysis
> Date: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 10:31 PM
>
> Hi,
>
> Thought this might interest you.
>
> Nish...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: REGIS F URSCHLER
> To: John York ; Nick Yanuzzi ; Wilson, Johncaf ; Capt Wilson (F-15W) ; Capt
> Jamie Wilson (A-10E) ; White, Terry ; Buzz Wheeler ; West, Robert-C18115 ;
> Wells, Ross/Donna ; Wagoner, Brandon ; Jim Thomas ; Sussingham, Chris LtCol
> ; Larry L. Strain ; Steve Stevens ; St. Amant ; Tony Spitzer ; Silcox,
> Brian ; Shipley, Hot mail ; Schrecker, Walter, Mr. AF/XOCP ; Ralph Royce ;
> Robertson, Graham ; Gordon Richardson ; Joe Racine ; Puredum, Dick ;
> Proulx, Mark Capt 421 ; Peterson, Dan 55 ; Peoples, Doug/Cynthia ;
> Nishimura, Robert ; Nickerson ; Gordon McMahon ; Patrck Lynch ; Larry
> Lumpkin ; Maj Lowery A-10W ; Lindsay, Bob ; Edward Lindsay ; Norman Lewis ;
> Mr. Vlado Lenoch (Heritage) ; Lehman, Skip ; Mr Lee Lauderback ; Konantz,
> Walter ; Bill Klausner ; Kinney, Ray ; Keenum, Mike ; Dick
> Iberg, Ron ; Ken Hopper ; Eric Van Hoff ; Hinz, Don ; Bill/Ginny Hill ;
> Henderson, Home ; Halloran, Pat ; Chuck Hall (Heritage) ; Don Griffin ;
> Gregory, Marion/Fay ; Gregory, Tommy ; Ezell Aviation ; Ernst, Bill 55 ;
> Efferson, Randal K Capt 78 ; Draper, John ; Dieter, Dick ; DAK ; Cullum,
> Jay ; Ollie Crawford ; Craig Home ; Craft, Roby ; Clausen, Duane QB ; Cook,
> Michael J 338 ; Chandler, Michael ; Col (r) Frank Borman (Heritage) ; Jess
> Bootenhof ; Wil Boneface ; Tory Bishop ; Bishop, Roger ; Mr James E.
> Beasely (Heritage) ; Barr, Harry ; bARBER, gARY ; Armstrong, Gene ;
> Agather, Neils
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 7:09 PM
> Subject: Concorde Crash Analysis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Maloney
> To: Urschler, Reg 55
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 1:33 AM
> Subject: Concorde Crash Analysis
>
>
> Picked this up from an acquaintance. Thought you might like to hear a
> Concorde pilot's analysis of what happened in Paris.
> Date: Fri, Jul 28, 2000
> From: Chris Olsson
>
> Concorde's low-speed aerodynamics are a bitch. She is on the backside of
> the
> drag curve until she's up to a least 250 - 300 knots. Until she reaches a
> sensible speed she is clawing her way into the sky in a way that requires
> vast amounts of power. Without the huge power of those wet Olympus
> engines,
> she would not be able to get up to the sort of speed that can sustain
> controlled flight. She would just wallow in a horrible low speed/high drag
>
> corner of the envelope. In the event of an engine failure on takeoff, she
> has an ample reserve of excess power to safely get airborne and accelerate
> to
> a good cruise-climb speed, but trying to accelerate to a good speed on only
>
> two engines with the Dunlops dangling in the breeze would be a bitch.
> Then
> factor in the effect of the massive fire gushing from the collector tank
> and
> toasting the inboard elevon and you have a fiendish nightmare of a control
> problem.
> The problem of being on the wrong side of the drag curve is that at
> these low speeds the power required INcreases with lower airspeed. In such
> a
> flight regime the only way to get the extra airspeed is to lower the nose
> and
> try to convert altitude for airspeed. Obviously this in not possible at
> the
> 200' of altitude which was as high as AF4590 managed in her two minute
> flight
> yesterday. It's a classic gotcha. Not enough power to get enough speed to
>
> be able to require less power. Once flying she may be a babe, but how
> close
> to the edge is she on takeoff ??
> The wing is optimized for supersonic flight and is really not very
> efficient at low subsonic speeds. Most normal airliners need less thrust
> to
> fly at 250 knots than at 350 knots. Not so with the Concorde. At the very
>
> high angles of attack which are involved in the initial climbout, the wing
> is
> extremely close to the stall, much, much more than a conventional wing.
> One
> of the clever tricks which the aeronautical engineers devised for the
> Concorde was the deliberate introduction of vortex flow over the wing to
> generate a controlled separation of the airflow from the boundary layer.
> The
> S-shaped planform of the leading edge of the wing is not an aesthetic
> thing.
> It is a clever trick to generate a "friendly" vortex which energizes the
> air
> over the top of the wing and creates what is called "vortex lift." There
> are
> a couple of very unforgiving characteristics inherent in the delta
> configuration. The wing tends to be speed-unstable. A conventional
> wing/tail configuration has a stable tendency to regain a trimmed speed in
> the event of a slight disturbance such as turbulence or a wee nudge on the
> control column. A delta, such as Concorde, Mirage, Vulcan, etc. tends to
> diverge from a trimmed speed. This makes it much more difficult to
> maintain
> an optimum angle of attack, particularly at low speeds.
> Another unpleasant characteristic is that she tends to pitch UP at
> the
> stall, unlike a normal configuration which is designed to pitch down at the
>
> stall. Of course, pitching up makes the stall even worse. There's more
> bad
> news at the stall !! To push the nose down in order to gain more speed and
>
> get away from the stall, the pilot lowers the elevons. This has the effect
>
> of increasing the effective camber of the wing, which in effect increases
> the
> angle of attack which is causing the stall in the first place. It's a
> classic
> gotcha.
> The eyewitness reports of the Concorde rearing up onto it's tail
> before
> sliding down into the Hotelissimo is a classic description of a delta wing
> stalling. The romantic nonsense about the pilot pulling up to fly over the
>
> hotel is just journalistic fantasy. The handling pilot was doing his best
> to
> keep the aircraft airborne by finessing the pitch angle to wring every
> gramme
> of lift out of the wing in a desperate attempt to go the extra mile or two
> and get the aircraft to LeBourget. The ghastly situation which the
> three-man
> crew faced on that flightdeck is enough to give anyone the heebiejeebies.
> They did their best, but were completely overwhelmed by their predicament.
>
> The part of the story which I just do not understand is : Why did the ATC
> Tower wait so long before telling the crew that their arse was on fire ??
>
> Forwarded by chewk007(at)aol.com (Pete Marchewka)
>
> EBBS/ejp
>
> ----
>
> ----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbine powered RV? |
Charlie and Tupper England
Richard White wrote:
>
>
> Not all is lost... there is a glasair with a verrryyy long nose that has a
> chek turbin on it. I don't know if it has flown yet, but the builder said
> he was going to limit the speed to 350 and it would burn around 30gph...
>
It flew in to SERFI (Evergreen AL flyin) 2 or 3 years ago. I heard that
S-H was rather upset that there were 600 horses on the nose of a G-III.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
Hi Charlie:
From what I have read, the 4 watt power of the unit is not a problem. I may
be all wet here, but that is the gist of what I have learned.
I had a chance to twist the dials and flip the switches of one at OSH this
year and my main gripe is that the thing is actually TOO small. I tried to
imagine myself hitting the right switch or knob while in turbulence. Just
seemed to me that the switches and knobs were too small and too close
together. I was impressed however with its quality, and I might add that
the Aussies are coming out with an encoding transponder in the $1400
range....saw that at OSH too and its size is quiet diminutive also.
I have been wrestling with the decision between the Microair and an Icom
A200. Right now the A200 has my vote due to its larger display and
perceived ease of hitting the right switch at the right time. Not that I
think that it is overly important, but it is listed as having a 7 watt
output too. No slam on Microair...just one man's opinion.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
waiting for fuse delivery
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles E. Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 1:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: MicroAir 760
>
>Listers, and in particular, Electric Bob,
>
>Electric Bob's post about the MicroAir 760 caught my attention and I
>looked it up on Bobs AeroElectric website.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
>
>I have looked at the MicroAir 760 before and I am impressed by its size
>and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
>is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
>flying.
>
>What say ye experts?
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6A QB, On the gear
>San Antonio, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
09/08/2000 03:10:45 PM
This depends on the German standards of reporting effective radiated
signal(s). Is it RMS (.707 * nominal power TO the output sections of the
This is like the horsepower ratings used in this country. Chech your sears
catalog and try to determine what the term "one horse-power develops two"
or some such nonsence.
"Charles E. Brame" (at)matronics.com on 09/08/2000
01:20:39 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Charles E.
Brame"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: MicroAir 760
Listers, and in particular, Electric Bob,
Electric Bob's post about the MicroAir 760 caught my attention and I
looked it up on Bobs AeroElectric website.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
I have looked at the MicroAir 760 before and I am impressed by its size
and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
flying.
What say ye experts?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Just too much fun |
I took a friend of mine for a ride in the pink panther (an RV-4 for the new
folks) last summer. He told me to help him find one. Many of you remember
Brain Lloyd, his airplane was for sale and I turned my friend on to it. He
bought it and has flown it a hundred hours or so.
He went to OSH this year and stopped by Van's tent. He walked up to Van and
said, " I want to shake your hand and thank you for designing my favorite
airplane." Van said, "Thank you." My friend said, " you need to understand
that in my other airplanes include a Corsair, TBM, P-40, Cessna 310, P-51A
and a real Zero. (all of them fly but the mustang and Zero)
These are mighty fine airplanes people!!!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com\dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
Does anyone know if Team Rocket has changed their web site address?
The current address that I have, www.teamrocketaircraft.com, doesn't
seem to work anymore.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
Roaming Shores, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 w/ engine, no wings |
/delurk
I've come to a decision point...do I mount the wings or the engine next?
I can see advantages to both, leaning towards engine, but can make more
progress by mounting (even if temporary) the wings. One question:
Will a -4 stay firmly on the tailwheel with no wings and most of the
removable bits (seats, floors) out of the cockpit? Looks like it
won't tip on the nose on it's own, but how much additional force
('a little' or 'a lot' will suffice) will send it over? How 'bout with the
fuselage leveled?
Dave 'unstable' Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 w/ engine, no wings |
In a message dated 9/8/00 8:59:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, nauga(at)brick.net
writes:
<< /delurk
I've come to a decision point...do I mount the wings or the engine next?
I can see advantages to both, leaning towards engine, but can make more
progress by mounting (even if temporary) the wings. One question:
Will a -4 stay firmly on the tailwheel with no wings and most of the
removable bits (seats, floors) out of the cockpit? Looks like it
won't tip on the nose on it's own, but how much additional force
('a little' or 'a lot' will suffice) will send it over? How 'bout with the
fuselage leveled?
Dave 'unstable' Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net >>
Dave,
I dunno about an RV-4, but my RV-6 in the condition you describe is just
about neutrally balanced when the fuselage longerons sit level. To give
myself more peace of mind, I put a milk crate full of old barbell weights on
the flat area where the horizontal stab attaches.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "les williams" <rv6aflyr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A Gearleg Intersection Fairings |
After reading Sam's report on mounting the Team Rocket gearleg and
intersections fairings on his -6, I'm a little hesitant to post this to the
list. But, since I haven't had the same experience, here goes anyway.
I have attempted to mount Team Rocket's gearleg intersection and gearleg
fairings on my RV-6A. Maybe it's just that I can't see the forest for the
trees in the way, but the bottom intersection fairings don't fit well.
Specifically, when the intersection fairing is fitted up tight to the wheel
pant, it meets the gearleg fairing at about a 10% down angle when viewing it
from in front of the aircraft looking toward the tail. In other words, if
the cuff of the intersection fairing, where the gear leg fairing goes, was
extended upward, it would intersect the fuel tank about a foot outboard from
the fuselage instead of projecting straight up the gearleg. I now have two
sets of bottom intersection fairings and both sets fit the same way. It
looks like my gear legs don't have enough bend at the bottoms where the
axles are, or the pants are mounted way off. The top intersection fairings
fit perfect. After talking and emailing Mark Frederick and his 'glas man,
and trying a second set of lower intersection fairings, thinking that the
first set might have been for the -6 instead of the -6A, we've come to no
conclusions as to why they don't fit. Has anyone else had any problems with
this? Has anyone had to trim away more than where the mold lines are on the
bottom of the
intersection fairings to try and get the angle correct? My Van's pressure
recovery wheel pants are mounted according to the instructions and as I've
seen them on other planes. I used a one inch
spacer at the top and lined them up vertically with the center tread of the
tires, so I don't think this is the problem, and neither does Mark. I don't
know the bend specs on the axles, however the plane tracks well and the
tires don't show any excessive scrubbing or wear at 28 hrs.
Will appreciate any comments and/or suggestions on this, other than "mold
your own" as I've already gone this route on another plane and I don't need
to gain this "experience" again. Thanks.
Les Williams
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
Jeff Orear wrote:
> >From what I have read, the 4 watt power of the unit is not a problem. I may
> be all wet here, but that is the gist of what I have learned.
>
> I had a chance to twist the dials and flip the switches of one at OSH this
> year and my main gripe is that the thing is actually TOO small. I tried to
> imagine myself hitting the right switch or knob while in turbulence. Just
> seemed to me that the switches and knobs were too small and too close
> together. I was impressed however with its quality, and I might add that
> the Aussies are coming out with an encoding transponder in the $1400
> range....saw that at OSH too and its size is quiet diminutive also.
>
I am no expert at all, but I have read several articles this year about the
MicroAir radio. Both articles said that the MicroAir had excellent range and
clarity, better in fact than some of the bigger, more powerful, and more
expensive radios that were tested for the same articles.
As far as the knobs and buttons being too small, I agree, they do seem just a
little on the smallish side, and the numbers in the display seem small as well.
By comparison, the Becker 2.25" round radios seem to have significantly larger
knobs and buttons, and the display has much larger numerals. However, the
MicroAir retails for $800 while the Becker is at least $1200.
I'm a long ways away from having to make such decisions, but I really do like the
2" round configuration for my RV-8 panel. All of the standard 6.25" wide oblong
radios seem to take up too much room in the wrong places for my purposes. But
the decision of whether to go with the Becker or the MicroAir will probably
depend on how flush or how broke I'm feeling when the time comes to buy avionics.
George True
________________________________________________________________________________
they havent changed there website. They are doing some design work on it
however and I bet the designer wanst paying attention. The site is still up,
you just have to be authorized to enter it. I will call Mark and the web
desinger and tell them
thanks for letting us know.
Chris WIlcox
F1 rocket kit #0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 w/ engine, no wings |
Dave:
I have my -4 up without wings. 0-360 up front and it has plenty of tail
weight. Seems very stable. In fact, going to the airport on a trailer,
it got away for just a bit (brooken straps and off it came). It has
already taxiied with no pilot!!!! Whew did we get away with one
there!!!!!!!! I did mount the wings without the engine to do the
incidence and angle. I can't see having the wings on when you have all
that work to do on the FWF and panel.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
FWF at last
Dave Hyde wrote:
>
>
> /delurk
>
> I've come to a decision point...do I mount the wings or the engine next?
> I can see advantages to both, leaning towards engine, but can make more
> progress by mounting (even if temporary) the wings. One question:
> Will a -4 stay firmly on the tailwheel with no wings and most of the
> removable bits (seats, floors) out of the cockpit? Looks like it
> won't tip on the nose on it's own, but how much additional force
> ('a little' or 'a lot' will suffice) will send it over? How 'bout with the
> fuselage leveled?
>
> Dave 'unstable' Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 9/8/00 9:45:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time, HCRV6(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Can anyone out there give me a web site address for B&C Specialty
Products.
I tried their e-mail address from the Yeller Pages and it bounced?! >>
Harry-
Fear not. The latest and greatest Yeller Pages was sent out to Mike Hartmann
on Wednesday night and it has this issue and many others corrected.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Killion <ckillion(at)uswest.net> |
Just picked this story off the EAA web site @ www.eaa.org. Don't know
how new this is but please give it your attention...
ATTENTION EAA CHAPTERS AND MEMBERS
EAA needs your assistance to prevent
the passage of Section 361 and Section
362, House Bill H.R. 4205. These two
sections of H.R. 4205 contains language
requiring the demilitarization of surplus
military equipment. Demilitarization
means rendering all surplus military
equipment inoperable, which would
effectively ground the warbird fleet, an
important part of our military and aviation
heritage.
EAA requests that you contact your Congressional
representative as soon as
possible and state your opposition to Section 361 and
Section 362 of House
Bill "H.R. 4205". Either use the local phone number
listed in your phone book
or call the U.S. Capital switchboard, 800-241-7109, ask
to speak to your
representative and then state your opposition to these
sections of the bill. A
web link is provided below to find fax numbers, mailing
addresses, and e-mail
addresses for your Congressional representatives.
Many warbird owners and enthusiasts regard such broad
authority as a threat
to these significant aircraft, since military
representatives could force
museums and other collectors to make the airplanes
unflyable to comply with
the regulation.
Unless these sections are defeated, they will
effectively cripple the warbird
preservation movement.
Since late July, members of EAAs Legal Advisory
Council and Warbirds of
America Division have been working with congressional
representatives to
modify the language in the resolution. A key figure in
the effort is Sen. James
Inhofe (R-OK), a pilot and supporter of recreational
aviation. Sen. Inhofe and
EAA have suggested that Department of Defenses
authority include
demilitarization for purposes of "solely deactivating
offensive equipment and
weaponry" in disposed surplus items.
However, this legislation may continue in its current
form unless you take
action to stop it. Please take action today.
Clay Killion
RV6 empennage
Phx AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
> I wish I had an nickel for all the times that I switched
> from low to high power and had the ham on the other end say "that's MUCH
> better". Were talking from 5 to 10 watts here. You can theorize till
your
> blue
> in the face, but as Electric Bob would say "facts is facts".
>
Jim; what radio are you using?? Most HT's I've seen jump from about 200 or
500 mW to 3 or 4 watts when you toggle the hi/lo swithch. My 2m mobile rig
increases output from 5 to 45 watts. These are bigger than 3 dB differences
and are, in fact, quite noticeable. I'm not sure how much of the difference
might be due to the "capture effect" of an FM receiver, which makes
comparison to our aircraft Ancient Modulation radios a bit difficult.
Bill Boyd ~ N4DLN
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Think about it
Non military wanna- bees flying military warbirds, alot of these foreign
jets maintained by civilian mechanics (probably the lowest bidder) is a
recipe for dissaster. I'm afraid this one makes sense.
Tom
Clay Killion wrote:
>
> Just picked this story off the EAA web site @ www.eaa.org. Don't know
> how new this is but please give it your attention...
>
> ATTENTION EAA CHAPTERS AND MEMBERS
>
> EAA needs your assistance to prevent
> the passage of Section 361 and Section
> 362, House Bill H.R. 4205. These two
> sections of H.R. 4205 contains language
> requiring the demilitarization of surplus
> military equipment. Demilitarization
> means rendering all surplus military
> equipment inoperable, which would
> effectively ground the warbird fleet, an
> important part of our military and aviation
> heritage.
>
> EAA requests that you contact your Congressional
> representative as soon as
> possible and state your opposition to Section 361 and
> Section 362 of House
> Bill "H.R. 4205". Either use the local phone number
> listed in your phone book
> or call the U.S. Capital switchboard, 800-241-7109, ask
> to speak to your
> representative and then state your opposition to these
> sections of the bill. A
> web link is provided below to find fax numbers, mailing
> addresses, and e-mail
> addresses for your Congressional representatives.
>
> Many warbird owners and enthusiasts regard such broad
> authority as a threat
> to these significant aircraft, since military
> representatives could force
> museums and other collectors to make the airplanes
> unflyable to comply with
> the regulation.
>
> Unless these sections are defeated, they will
> effectively cripple the warbird
> preservation movement.
>
> Since late July, members of EAAs Legal Advisory
> Council and Warbirds of
> America Division have been working with congressional
> representatives to
> modify the language in the resolution. A key figure in
> the effort is Sen. James
> Inhofe (R-OK), a pilot and supporter of recreational
> aviation. Sen. Inhofe and
> EAA have suggested that Department of Defenses
> authority include
> demilitarization for purposes of "solely deactivating
> offensive equipment and
> weaponry" in disposed surplus items.
>
> However, this legislation may continue in its current
> form unless you take
> action to stop it. Please take action today.
>
> Clay Killion
> RV6 empennage
> Phx AZ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
>increases output from 5 to 45 watts. These are bigger than 3 dB differences
>and are, in fact, quite noticeable. I'm not sure how much of the difference
Actually it was a Wilson handy talky ( you remember the old crystal models )
that I modified to boost the power. I just can't keep my hands off if the
insides of these things. I too have a mobil rig and mine goes from 10 to 100
watts but I digress...
The thing to remember here is to ask folks that are actually using the radio.
If you get reports that the MicroAir is the best thing since sliced bread from
folks that "actually have experience using the darn thing" then there is your
answer. Every thing else is just conjecture at best. Which is, of course what
we do best on this list after all :-)
Now perhaps we can get back to building airplanes.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 sensenich (85)
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PANELCUT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cap Engraving |
Listers
I shipped about 12 sets of caps today so people should be getting them
early next week, I had some late arrivals so I got started late but they are
DONE. Sorry about the delay. If anybody else has caps they want engraved send
them on I will do them as I get them in.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> |
| Subject: | Quick Build Primer |
Does anyone know what primer Van's uses on the quickbuild kits? I'm trying
to finally make a decision on what primer to use and figured my best bet is
going to be to stick with the same brand/process that the quickbuild comes
with.
Thanks.
Bob Waalkes
RV-8 QB Emp - HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cap Engraving |
how much u charge?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter and pinion gears |
> >Apparently Sky-Tek has shipped out some starters with
> >the wrong gear on them, so even though the part number is right, the
> >starter is WRONG. In one case, it just chewed up the ring gear.
>
> This sounds like a pretty big deal. Does anyone know of a list of serial
> numbers that Sky-Tec has published that covers the offending units???
Before I answer let me just say that I'm not any kind of engine or starter
guru; everything I know about this has come about just from the fact that
this happened to two of my RV buddies who hangar in the same area that I do.
I'm passing this info on in hopes that other RVers will avoid similar
problems, but you should investigate and verify the information before
taking any action.
That being said, so far I know of only these two cases. Coincidentally, both
were on RVs based in the NE T hangars at Hillsboro Airport. I don't know if
there are more or if Sky-Tek knows of/acknowledges a problem.
The important point is to count your gears. If you have a 149 tooth ring
gear and a Sky-Tek starter the starter gear should have 10 teeth. I suppose
that other brands may have different diameter gear so they could have
different numbers of teeth and still be correct; these numbers would only
apply to Sky-Tek starters.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
"Charlie and Tupper England"
| Subject: | Re: Turbine powered RV? |
"Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 Rocket 006"
Some of S-H concern might be because the company's single prototype attempt
with an Allison tubine killed the builder and his wife on a "hotdog"
takeoff.
Paul Vander Schuur
> >
> > Not all is lost... there is a glasair with a verrryyy long nose that has
a
> > chek turbin on it. I don't know if it has flown yet, but the builder
said
> > he was going to limit the speed to 350 and it would burn around 30gph...
> >
> It flew in to SERFI (Evergreen AL flyin) 2 or 3 years ago. I heard that
> S-H was rather upset that there were 600 horses on the nose of a G-III.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
Just to keep this in perspective...a less than perfect feedline coax
connection, or a poor antenna location can kill much more signal than
the difference between the 4 and 6/7 watts represents.
A well cited antenna with the 4 watts and a good feedline will do very
well. The more citical factors in the performance of a communication
radio is the input sensitivity, the ability of the radio to reject
unwanted signals (selectivity and noise rejection). I do not know the
performance of these radios but this thread has not explored these other
factors.
Just don't fixate on the one parameter, look at the total package.
Another factor to consider is that the Aussie currency is at a rate
which is very very favourable for you guys in the US right now!
No I don't work for the company, I just live in the same country.
Doug Gray
RV-6 Wings, Sydney Australia
VK2GCV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
RV-List Digest Server
Just had to say "thank you!!!!" to those RV folks who take the time and effort
to establish and maintain web sites about RVs...builders, groups, EAA chapters,
the Yeller Pages, Van's Air Force, all of 'em - and a special "thanks" to Matt
for this List. If all those resources hadn't existed, I most likely would
never have found the information and the motivation to build an RV.
John Lawson
RV-6 - VS and HS done, finally getting off the 6-day-a-week hamster-cage wheel
at work to continue on the control surfaces...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon B. Evans" <gordonevans(at)cpis.net> |
"RV-List Digest Server"
Remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clayfly(at)libertybay.com |
| Subject: | RV-4 w/ engine, no wings |
Dave,
I put my O-360 on my RV-4 before I put the wings on --- no problems with it tipping
over.
I don't ever recall lifting the tail to the flight configuration until I had the
wings on though.
Clay Smith, RV-4, N9X, 19.3 hours (testing)
Indiana
> ** Original Subject: RV-List: RV-4 w/ engine, no wings
> ** Original Sender: "Dave Hyde"
> ** Original Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 18:25:46 -0700
> ** Original Message follows...
>
>
> /delurk
>
> I've come to a decision point...do I mount the wings or the engine next?
> I can see advantages to both, leaning towards engine, but can make more
> progress by mounting (even if temporary) the wings. One question:
> Will a -4 stay firmly on the tailwheel with no wings and most of the
> removable bits (seats, floors) out of the cockpit? Looks like it
> won't tip on the nose on it's own, but how much additional force
> ('a little' or 'a lot' will suffice) will send it over? How 'bout with the
> fuselage leveled?
>
> Dave 'unstable' Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
>
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
> _-
===========================================================
>
>
>** --------- End Original Message ----------- **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clay Killion <ckillion(at)uswest.net> |
Tom - I'd urge you to look at the EAA warbird division closely and
you'll
have those fears eased. Maintaining our warbird heritage is not a 'new'
endevour of a few militant wannabees but rather a display of our proud
heritage.
The level of maintenance I've seen at the warbirds maintained where
I hangar indicates no cheap backyard machanic. If you will - check
out:....http://www.petroblend.com/dougr/ or
......http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2951/index.html
These guys are a common example of the type of character associated
with
warbird presevation. (It's just love of aviation directed at retitired
flying military workhorses).
Regards,
Clay Killion
RV6 empennage
Thomas McIntyre wrote:
> Think about it
> Non military wanna- bees flying military warbirds, alot of these
foreign
> jets maintained by civilian mechanics (probably the lowest bidder) is
a
> recipe for dissaster. I'm afraid this one makes sense.
> Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
I have a 1 Watt handheld in my Corben and routinely talk 75-100 miles
from 2000 AGL (using one of those very flexible ELT antennas, about $37
from Chief Aircraft)...I've never felt the need to call LAX approach
from Wisconsin ;)
Output power is not as important as altitude as VHF radio signals are
"line of sight" for the most part. Altitude compensates for the
curvature of the Earth...the higher you go, the further you'll be able
to talk. IMHO, 1 Watt is fine, 4 Watts is a bit of overkill and 10 Watts
is a waste of money.
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
"Charles E. Brame" wrote:
>
>
> Listers, and in particular, Electric Bob,
>
> Electric Bob's post about the MicroAir 760 caught my attention and I
> looked it up on Bobs AeroElectric website. http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
>
> I have looked at the MicroAir 760 before and I am impressed by its size
> and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking, this
> is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the flagpole
> flying.
>
> What say ye experts?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A QB, On the gear
> San Antonio, TX
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Microair 760 |
> There was an informative article in either Kitplanes, Custom Plans,
or > Sport
> Aviation a few months ago. The article, I seem to remember it was by
> Jim
> Weir, tested the MicroAir 760 comparatively with 2-3 other units.
The article in question was in the December 1999 Kitplanes. Page 20.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 w/ engine, no wings |
Hi Dave,
I have an O-360 and CS prop on my RV4. I mounted both on the fuselage
prior to the wings. Without the tail feathers, the ship would definitely
nose over. I put a lead shot bag 25 lb. on the tail and it was fine. The
ship when put into a level flight attitude get more nose heavy. In addition
to the weight on the tail, I tied a lathe chuck via a rope just in case. I
think it was easier to install the engine and internals without the wings in
place.
Cheers,
Tom Brown RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Build Primer |
>Does anyone know what primer Van's uses on the quickbuild kits? I'm trying
>to finally make a decision on what primer to use and figured my best bet is
Sherwin Williams P60 G2. You can pick it up from your local Sherwin Williams
dealer. Having the quick build already primed with it is what made the choice
for me as far as primers go. I figured that the factory might know a little bit
about what they were doing so I followed suit and did my whole RV-8A with it.
The only change they made to the application was to add two parts accelerator to
one part base. This differs from the 1.5 to 1 ratio that Sherwin Williams
recommends. This has the effect of thinning out the coat and results in less
weight. I have been able to do my entire plane with just one gallon.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 sensenich (85)
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 w/ engine, no wings |
Dave I have my RV4 on wheels with an 0-320 up front and have the tail
wheel on a saw horse to keep it level while I set the incidence angles.
I move it around by picking the tail up and pushing when I need room
in the shop. It has no tendency to nose over unless you lift the tail
real high like six foot or so. I moved several years ago and put the
tail wheel on the gate of my pickup and secured it with a strap. Towed
it about ten miles with engine on front. I do have the tail feathers
mounted and the rear top turtle deck clecoed on. Have had the wings
on and off several times but find it much easier to work inside the
cockpit with the wings off.
Earl, RV4 working on canopy
Dave Hyde wrote:
>
>
> /delurk
>
> I've come to a decision point...do I mount the wings or the engine next?
> I can see advantages to both, leaning towards engine, but can make more
> progress by mounting (even if temporary) the wings. One question:
> Will a -4 stay firmly on the tailwheel with no wings and most of the
> removable bits (seats, floors) out of the cockpit? Looks like it
> won't tip on the nose on it's own, but how much additional force
> ('a little' or 'a lot' will suffice) will send it over? How 'bout with the
> fuselage leveled?
>
> Dave 'unstable' Hyde
> nauga(at)brick.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
Listers:
Not to beat a dead horse, but I have had a chance to look at Microair's
website and I see that they have come out with the 760-8.33SFL transceiver.
One of the improvements to the radio is the elimination of toggle switches.
This looks like it solves my earlier concern regarding the size and
placement of switches and the like on the orriginal 760 radio. Kudos to the
Aussies!
The T2000 transponder is configured the same as the transceiver, and looks
to be a great product also. Santa is going to have a long list from me this
year!!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
waitn' for the fuse to arrive
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flap brace trimming |
I asked the same question for a RV-4 here a month or two ago. I am not sure
if the set up on the -6 and the -4 are the same, but one suggestion I
received was to cut the flap brace and re-bend the flat portion to fit under
the spar support flange. This has to be done before any lightening holes are
drilled. I can send a picture of what I am doing if this helps as my
description is not probably hard to understand.
-Mike
RV-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>I have been wrestling with the decision between the Microair and an Icom
>A200. Right now the A200 has my vote due to its larger display and
>perceived ease of hitting the right switch at the right time. It is listed
as having a 7 watt
>output....
I have an ICOM A200 and couldn't be happier. After some initial antennae
problems were corrected, it really puts out. The line staff one day said
they can always tell it's me coming in because the radio transmits so
loudly. I also have the channels I use most often programmed into the radio
and switched to the Infinity stick grip. Most days can fly without
actually touching the radio except to turn it on and off at the beginning
and end of the flight. Easy to read, even in sunlight, compact, relatively
inexpensive. (This is sounding like some sort of ad.......)
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Tip Lighting Question |
I am building an RV-4 and was going to put on the AeroFlash wing tip lighting
kit. I was interested in their kit with the color/strobe/white light in each
wing tip with the dual power supplies. I also wanted to add an additional
white tail light. How would I wire this up? Would I need an additional power
supply or could I tap off of one or both of the existing power supplies? Any
advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 w/ engine, no wings |
I always had 2 cases of oil on the tail, with the tail wheel assy. on a saw
horse. I highly recommend doing as much work with the wings of as possible.
It will cut your walking distance down by 5 miles a day. I also removed my
fuel tanks after mounting the wings, this gives much more room when working
inside the cockpit.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Welch" <vwelch(at)knownet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Lighting Question |
I would think if you are just talking about a white tail light and
not a strobe then just feeding the rear light with 12 volts off the
nav light switch would be fine. No need to tap off the power supply.
Vince Welch
RV-8A Wings
Roaming Shores, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <N8292W(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 11:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Lighting Question
>
> I am building an RV-4 and was going to put on the AeroFlash wing
tip lighting
> kit. I was interested in their kit with the color/strobe/white
light in each
> wing tip with the dual power supplies. I also wanted to add an
additional
> white tail light. How would I wire this up? Would I need an
additional power
> supply or could I tap off of one or both of the existing power
supplies? Any
> advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> -Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Wing tip lights/Strobe on VSl? |
I will be order ring the bladder busters (wing tip tanks) for my RV-8 next
week and not sure which lights to go with - external or internal. I assume
the internal option is the Airtech lights.
In this case, I would like to install strobes in them as well. Does anyone
have experience with this? I am most worried about being bothered from the
strobes without building a guard on the wing tip. Also, could there be a
heat problem this close to a fuel cell (gasp!)?
If I can install strobes in the Airtech's, I'll install a combo strobe and
position light in the rudder fairing. If not - I have to install a strobe on
the top of the VS which I'd rather not do.
Are
RV-8
Determined to fly the RV-8 from Canada to Norway :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Canopy skirt fit on RV-8 |
Can anyone tell me how close the canopy skirt is suppose to fit next to the
fuselage? I know "the tighter the better" but at some point it starts
scratching up the paint.
Many thanks in advance,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( lost in a fiberglass cloud of dust )
O-360 Sensenich (85)
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | How to mount throttle quad in rv4? |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
I have the three lever quadrant from Van's but can't really visualize how to
mount it from the drawings. Any one have some suggestions as to how to
mount this thing in an RV4? Better yet, pictures?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Etching Primer vs. Alodine |
Listers:
Can anyone tell me what the difference is, if any, between what a
self-etching primer (such as Sherwin Williams E2-G973 or other similar
types) does and what Alodine does? Assume the self etching primer is not
sealed over (as the mfgr. specifies) or recoated with any other products.
I have completed my 3 credit course in priming at Matronics Archive U., but
must have napped through this part ;-)
Thanks...
Russ Christopher
RV-8 Emp.
SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Listers:
>
>Not to beat a dead horse, but I have had a chance to look at Microair's
>website and I see that they have come out with the 760-8.33SFL transceiver.
>One of the improvements to the radio is the elimination of toggle switches.
>This looks like it solves my earlier concern regarding the size and
>placement of switches and the like on the orriginal 760 radio. Kudos to the
>Aussies!
>
>The T2000 transponder is configured the same as the transceiver, and looks
>to be a great product also. Santa is going to have a long list from me this
>year!!
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A
>waitn' for the fuse to arrive
>Peshtigo, WI
>
And I've told my distributor that we'll add both of those
radios to our website as soon as they're available. Right now,
the best they can quote me is early next year . . . what ever
"early" means.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Etching Primer vs. Alodine |
i have done it all, well almost. alodine needs to be prepped with an acid to
clean. self etch not needed. but after you alodine most then use an epoxy
enamel. what you have here is a one step process vs. a three step. from
experience, do not go the 3 step. it is very time consuming and adds weight.
now if you are near salt water perhaps a different story. with the one step u
still need to clean surface- i use coleman lamp fluid. i now use a one step
method with viraprime. it seems to stick a little better than the marhide or
spray can of zinc chromate plus the spray can cost more-at least in these
parts. u can find varaprime at auto paint stores. u will find that everyone
has there opinion some guys dont even prime at all. bob in ark doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Just don't fixate on the one parameter, look at the total package.
>
>Another factor to consider is that the Aussie currency is at a rate
>which is very very favourable for you guys in the US right now!
>
>No I don't work for the company, I just live in the same country.
You got it Doug . . . it's "bang for the buck" and not just
"bang" . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
I need a bit of paint help from the paint experts out there in RV-land...
I have one rivet which keeps bleeding some sort of oil or grease onto my
primer. I've sanded the primer off several times, wiped the area with every
solvent I have in my house of horrors, and it still doesn't stop. When I
re-prime the area, it looks good for a while, but a couple of hours later, it
bleeds through again.
Suggestions?
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt fit on RV-8 |
>
>
>Can anyone tell me how close the canopy skirt is suppose to fit next to the
>fuselage? I know "the tighter the better" but at some point it starts
>scratching up the paint.
>
>Many thanks in advance,
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( lost in a fiberglass cloud of dust )
>O-360 Sensenich (85)
>N89JA reserved
Jim,
Tight as you can get it, then place a strip of sticky backed felt all around
the skirt where it contacts the fuselage. It won't scuff the paint and
provides a better seal. You do NOT want air leaks....it gets mighty cold up
at altitude during the winter!
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>I have an ICOM A200 and couldn't be happier. After some initial antennae
>problems were corrected, it really puts out. The line staff one day said
>they can always tell it's me coming in because the radio transmits so
>loudly. I also have the channels I use most often programmed into the radio
>and switched to the Infinity stick grip. Most days can fly without
>actually touching the radio except to turn it on and off at the beginning
>and end of the flight. Easy to read, even in sunlight, compact, relatively
>inexpensive. (This is sounding like some sort of ad.......)
>
>Michael
In years past, I was very active in amateur radio FM repeater systems.
I was president of the Air Capitol Amateur Repeater Association when
we got permission to put a repeater 1200 feet up on KTVH in '71. I had
occasion
to help track down a very tiny, interfering signal to a repeater system
in Lawrence Ks. It required a receiver that would detect this signal while
working in close proximity to lots of high power transmitters on the
Douglas County communications tower a few blocks away.
An ICOM product was the only one of 5 different radios I tried to
accomplish this task. With a 3-element quad antenna and the ICOM
I was able to tell what house the signal was coming from and indeed
which corner of the house to search. That narrowed it down to a
television set in the living room or a scanner in a second floor
bedroom. Turns out the scanner was doing it. We passed the hat at
the next club meeting and bought the guy a new radio . . . fixed the
problem to EVERYBODY's satisfaction.
Obviously not related to aircraft but . . . I have since had a strong
reason to recommend ICOM products after seeing their design prevail in an
otherwise very difficult task.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 oil cooler change results |
Listers,
I finally changed out my firewall mounted Positech cooler for a Niagara, 7
row cooler placed on the rear baffle behind cylinder #4.
Success!
The Positech just wasn't cooling the oil at all. Once the temp got up to 220
degrees, it would stay there...heat soaked and would not come down until the
power came back and the nose went down. Even then, it would take several
minutes.
I went flying today. (Air temp in mid 80's.) I made a full power climb at
100mph, including some turns to really load the engine. Oil temp never went
higher than 200 degrees! I'm very pleased and wish I had made the change
earlier. I can now hold full power during the summer heat without any
concerns about oil temp. Once I leveled out, the temp dropped back to the
vernatherm setting of 180 degrees, and it did so within three minutes. This
was at about 1,000' AGL (6,500' MSL), in hot, thermally air which formerly
would send my oil temp to 220 in a hurry while at 2700 rpm. This cooler and
it's location on the baffle WORKS. After landing, and sitting on the hot
ramp, I took a Young Eagle for a ride. Up we went, temp in low 90's, full
power all the way, oil temp tickled the cool side of 200 then slid right
back to 180 when the nose went down.
In summary: Positech coolers suck. Oops, maybe that's too harsh. Uh they
simply are NOT suited for use in aircraft. Yes, they are very nicely made
and robust. However, they just don't do the job unless you use an oversize
model and place it where it gets full ram intake air....with no ducting to
impede airflow. Forget about using the firewall mounting and 3" scat hose.
I've been roasting my oil like this since first flight. Egads.
I talked with the owner of a major oil cooler service last year at
Copperstate and his opinion...after many years in this business, is that the
Positechs are totally unsuited for use in any airplane. His preference is
the Stewart Warner, and after that, the Niagara or Harrison.
So there you have it. My less than scientific oil cooler testing results.
Take it for what it's worth. Anyone want a used Positech? Would make a nice
desk ornament.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
cruisin' cool
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
I'm interested in finding the light system that fits in wing tips.
Can someone point me in a direction to find. I really do not
want to do the leading edge idea for lights.
Regards Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 oil cooler change results |
In a message dated 9/9/00 5:48:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
> In summary: Positech coolers suck. Oops, maybe that's too harsh. Uh they
> simply are NOT suited for use in aircraft. Yes, they are very nicely made
> and robust. However, they just don't do the job unless you use an oversize
> model and place it where it gets full ram intake air....with no ducting to
> impede airflow. Forget about using the firewall mounting and 3" scat
hose.
>
> I've been roasting my oil like this since first flight. Egad
Hi Brian,
My 7 row positech cooler mounted on the firewall allows me to climb at full
power all day in Fla and I rarely see oil temps over 190 degrees farenheit.
Two days ago I made climbs from Sea Level to 9500 feet, the OAT was 95 at
take off and was 68 degrees at 9,500. I think the trick on firewall cooling
may be the transition duct from the 3 inch line to the cooler is critical. I
made the diffuser out of aluminum and Rick Caldwell made a similiar one out
of FG and his results are the same.
We are thinking of using the exit air as the source for cabin heat to add a
little back pressure on the cooler to bring the temps up to Shell recommended
numbers. Egad!
Bernie Kerr, 6A, 160 HP, 80 in Sensenich , SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
Hi Mike,
Give Bob DeBorde a call at RMD (503-648-0331). These lighting recesses
come with landing lights installed (they're aimable so you can tailor
the beam angle to your needs -- like using one for a taxi light) and
have room for nav/strobe lights as well.
I haven't installed them yet, as my wingtips aren't mounted, but the
workmanship looks to be first rate. Bob is great to deal with and won't
accept payment until you've already received your lights and are
satisfied. A real gentleman.
--
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
assorted endless cockpit stuff
Mike Comeaux wrote:
>
> I'm interested in finding the light system that fits in wing tips.
> Can someone point me in a direction to find. I really do not
> want to do the leading edge idea for lights.
>
> Regards Mike Comeaux
> mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
Listers,
David Orr (canard aircraft builder) asked me to pass this on to all the
interested RV builders/fliers. They would like to see more metal
aircraft in attendance.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 wings
Boca Raton, Fl.
To All Interested Parties:
I have received an E-mail from Alex Parra indicating that he will
again host a fly in at Acapulco this November. The dates are Wed.22nd to
Sun.26th. He is arranging hotel accomodations at the Malibu'. The cost
will be about $50.00/night single or double, and will include daily
breakfast, transportation, Rally, Boat Trip, Thanksgiving dinner,
farewell dinner, airport parking fee, and much more. The hotel price is
good for early arrivals and late departures.
Interested parties should send $100.00 advance to:
Alejandro E. Parra
P.O. Box 90098
Los Angeles, Ca. 90009
It should be noted that the Mexican Government is no longer charging
airport tax to passengers in private planes.
Please notify Bill Oertel if you intend to attend this event, but
send checks to Alex. Bill will attempt to co-ordinate flights and keep
track of who to expect to participate. This trip will require an
overnight stay, possibly in Puerto Vallarta, so please communicate your
intentions and get ready for a great time! Also, spread the word to
whomever you think might be interested.
Regards,
Bill Oertel (ezeflight(at)earthlink.net)
Acapulco Fly-in 24 Jun 2000 Aero Publicidad Remolcada
alexair(at)acabtu.com.mx To: David Kolstad dkolstad(at)pacbell.net
Preliminary Report. ACAPULCO 2000 FLY-IN NOV. 22nd. - 26th. Good news.
Looks that we are having a lot of fun arrangements for the fly-in. We
are - as usual- negotiating with the service providers for having a
complete unexpensive package for every one, with a lot of fun included.
We just had a great deal from the Malib hotel. This time we will get a
nice price of $50.00 tax included for single or double room per night
including breakfast (same hotel we stay last time here in Acapulco.)
That's cheaper that last time
Expect in the price of the whole package, the will try to include:
Hotel, breakfast daily, transportation hotel-airport-hotel, Air rally,
Bay boat sunset trip, thanks giving dinner, farewell dinner, Airplane
Airport Parking fee, At my home fiesta (no charge), and lets see what
we can arrange for free with the turism office.( Maybe a disco night?)
IMPORTANT: hotel price is good for early arrivals and late departures.
All reservations please send $100.00 for couple /single or airplane. if
more than 2 adults in an airplane, please send $100.00 aditional for
each room reserved.Send check to may name. Alejandro E. Parra, P.O. Box
90098, Los Angeles, CA. 90009. U.S.A.
We will let you know the final package price very soon.
Please include, name of pilot and passangers, type of airplane and tail
number. Expected day and time of arrival. If possible send e-mail to:
alexair(at)acabtu.com.mx with all your information. Including your home and
e-mail address. if you are not bringing airplane please let us know
arriving flight number, date, time and airline you are arriving. Let
every pilot know that the airport departure tax is no longer being
charged to private planes passengers in Mexico. It was a great victory
for our mexican AOPA (named FEMMPA). Please forward this message to
everybody.
Alex and Nancy Parra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-3 kit for sale |
Listers:
One of the ladies in our RV club has a RV-3 kit for sale which was started
by her late husband. The price would be quite reasonable. If anyone is
interested, please contact me off list or via phone.
Thanks
Doug
Pres, MN Wing
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to mount throttle quad in rv4? |
>
> I have the three lever quadrant from Van's but can't really visualize how
to
> mount it from the drawings. Any one have some suggestions as to how to
> mount this thing in an RV4? Better yet, pictures?
>
Scott:
I made my own fancy quadrant (not Van's) and mounted it this way: Drilled
two holes through the outside fuselage skin into the outside housing of my
throttle quadrant. Installed two nutplates on the outside quadrant housing
and it is held in place with two #8 countersunk machine screws. Did the
same for the rear seat quadrant.
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy skirt fit on RV-8 |
>>Can anyone tell me how close the canopy skirt is suppose to fit next to
the
fuselage? I know "the tighter the better" but at some point it starts
scratching up the paint.<<
Tight - idealy *just* touching. Once painted you will use either teflon tape
or sticky backed felt to prevent scratching. I'm told by those flying RV-8s
that the rear skirt area is a big source of air leaks so make it fit as
tight as you can. I spent some extra time with the fiberglass on the rear of
mine where it goes over the canopy rail that I think will pay off once I'm
flying. You can see it at http://www.rv-8.com/pgCanopy.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MOOREWAR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RV-4 throttle quad. |
I only have the two lever quadrant, but fwiw I used about an 12 inch piece of
.063 anlgle riveted to the fuse side skin (#3 flush rivet) between the f404
and f402 bulkheads at the height you want. Then with nutplates I attached
another piece of .063 to the riveted angle on the fuse, forming a upside "U"
Then I put some nutplates on the inside of the angle that screws to the one
that is riveted on, to accept the two bolts that go all the way through the
quadrant (bought from Van's). Did the same with 5" pieces of angle to
attach the lower quadrant bolts. It seems pretty strong and I can remove
the quandrant with a socket wrench making it easy to attach the cables.
Warren Moore
trying not to screw up the cowl too bad!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
Hi Mike,
I agree with Ken. I installed the RMD lights as I was not about to cut
into that leading edge skill given my history with mistakes. I figured I
could always patch the fiberglass wingtip if I screwed up. They fit nicely
into the leading edge of the wingtips and contain both the landing light and
nav/position light with the streamlined Plexiglas. Came with all the parts
needed including electrical terminals.
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
RV-6A N494BW
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing lights
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Give Bob DeBorde a call at RMD (503-648-0331). These lighting recesses
> come with landing lights installed (they're aimable so you can tailor
> the beam angle to your needs -- like using one for a taxi light) and
> have room for nav/strobe lights as well.
>
> I haven't installed them yet, as my wingtips aren't mounted, but the
> workmanship looks to be first rate. Bob is great to deal with and won't
> accept payment until you've already received your lights and are
> satisfied. A real gentleman.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
> assorted endless cockpit stuff
>
>
> Mike Comeaux wrote:
>
> >
> > I'm interested in finding the light system that fits in wing tips.
> > Can someone point me in a direction to find. I really do not
> > want to do the leading edge idea for lights.
> >
> > Regards Mike Comeaux
> > mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: How to mount throttle quad in rv4? |
Scott
I have the two lever quadrant in my four and I mounted it in a fabricated
rib between the two bulkheads that straddle the Panel (don't have plans here
to tell you the numbers) Works fine and is very comfortable.
I think the plans show to mount it up higher on the cockpit rail but it is
to high there IMHO.
I have a digital camera and could take some photos and send them along if
you wish....let me know.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
>
> I have the three lever quadrant from Van's but can't really visualize how
to
> mount it from the drawings. Any one have some suggestions as to how to
> mount this thing in an RV4? Better yet, pictures?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 oil cooler change results |
the cooler is critical. I
>made the diffuser out of aluminum and Rick Caldwell made a similiar one
>out
>of FG and his results are the same.
>
>We are thinking of using the exit air as the source for cabin heat to add a
>little back pressure on the cooler to bring the temps up to Shell
>recommended
>numbers. Egad!
>
>Bernie Kerr, 6A, 160 HP, 80 in Sensenich , SE Fla
I am not thinking about it anymore, I completed this several weeks ago. I
gave it a test flight down to Key West & then to Naples. Oil temp in cruise
is 96 C (205 F). Since my FG duct to the cooler was more efficient than I
had planned, I initially had to block off most of the outlet. So when I
made a FG transition piece for the exit of the cooler, I necked it down to
2" so the 2" scat hose would be compatible w/ the 2" hose connection on the
cabin heat valve. This worked, not only for oil temp, but the #3 CHT came
down 20 C in cruise, which is what I was really after.
Rick Caldwell
Melbourne,FL -6 130 hrs until tomorrow morning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Etching Primer vs. Alodine |
Russ,
A self etching primer creates an improved (etched) surface to insure that the
primer bonds well. Primers & paints do not bond to aluminium as well as they do
to steel. Extra effort is required to insure a good bond to aluminium. Alodine
and it's competitor Iridite are chemical corrosion inhibitors which also
provide an improved "grip" for the primer.
Mil-spec epoxy primers contain strontium chromate to prevent corrosion. They
will protect against 7 of the 8 types of corrosion aluminium is prone to. They
will not protect against filiform corrosion. Chromic (spelling??) acid
conversion processes (Alodine & Iridite) will prevent 5 types of corrosion
INCLUDING filiform corrosion. MIL-P-23377D
Any primer which does not meet Mil-spec MIL-P-23377D doesn't contain strontium
chromate. It will not provide any additional corrosion protection. Do an
archive search on MIL-P-23377D for more info. Also check out EAA Chapter 1000's
excellent web site for more info on epoxy primers and Alodine at
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/corridx.htm
Contact me off list if you'd like more info after you get done with your
"homework" :-) assignment!
Charlie Kuss
RV-8
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> Listers:
>
> Can anyone tell me what the difference is, if any, between what a
> self-etching primer (such as Sherwin Williams E2-G973 or other similar
> types) does and what Alodine does? Assume the self etching primer is not
> sealed over (as the mfgr. specifies) or recoated with any other products.
>
> I have completed my 3 credit course in priming at Matronics Archive U., but
> must have napped through this part ;-)
>
> Thanks...
>
> Russ Christopher
> RV-8 Emp.
> SoCal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
Where did you install the strobe(s)?
Are
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: September 9, 2000 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing lights
Hi Mike,
I agree with Ken. I installed the RMD lights as I was not about to cut
into that leading edge skill given my history with mistakes. I figured I
could always patch the fiberglass wingtip if I screwed up. They fit nicely
into the leading edge of the wingtips and contain both the landing light and
nav/position light with the streamlined Plexiglas. Came with all the parts
needed including electrical terminals.
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
RV-6A N494BW
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing lights
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Give Bob DeBorde a call at RMD (503-648-0331). These lighting recesses
> come with landing lights installed (they're aimable so you can tailor
> the beam angle to your needs -- like using one for a taxi light) and
> have room for nav/strobe lights as well.
>
> I haven't installed them yet, as my wingtips aren't mounted, but the
> workmanship looks to be first rate. Bob is great to deal with and won't
> accept payment until you've already received your lights and are
> satisfied. A real gentleman.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> Ashland, MA
> RV-8 #81125 N118KB (reserved)
> assorted endless cockpit stuff
>
>
> Mike Comeaux wrote:
>
> >
> > I'm interested in finding the light system that fits in wing tips.
> > Can someone point me in a direction to find. I really do not
> > want to do the leading edge idea for lights.
> >
> > Regards Mike Comeaux
> > mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt fit on RV-8 |
In a message dated 9/9/00 9:49:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com writes:
<< Can anyone tell me how close the canopy skirt is supposed to fit next to
the
fuselage? I know "the tighter the better" but at some point it starts
scratching up the paint. >>
As with a few other things I can think of, tighter is better. Use UHMW tape
as a chafe strip on the edge of the turtledeck.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Etching Primer vs. Alodine |
Russ, you'll probably get lots of replys, however, check out this link for
lots of information. If you've got more questions after reading this site,
then ask away.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/corridx.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 2:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Etching Primer vs. Alodine
>
> Listers:
>
> Can anyone tell me what the difference is, if any, between what a
> self-etching primer (such as Sherwin Williams E2-G973 or other similar
> types) does and what Alodine does? Assume the self etching primer is not
> sealed over (as the mfgr. specifies) or recoated with any other products.
>
> I have completed my 3 credit course in priming at Matronics Archive U.,
but
> must have napped through this part ;-)
>
> Thanks...
>
> Russ Christopher
> RV-8 Emp.
> SoCal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
Check it out.
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/Ideas.htm#RMD%20Landing%20Light%20Kit
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 5:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Landing lights
>
> I'm interested in finding the light system that fits in wing tips.
> Can someone point me in a direction to find. I really do not
> want to do the leading edge idea for lights.
>
> Regards Mike Comeaux
> mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Etching Primer vs. Alodine |
In a message dated 09/09/2000 7:07:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net writes:
<< Do an
archive search on MIL-P-23377D for more info. >>
Charlie
Thanks for posting this one. Nothing like the milspec numbers to clear up
that issue.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
I just had to put my two cents worth in on this one. I fly out of Arlington,
WA. At Arlington, we have quite a few different "projects" on the field.
Some of these are jet aircraft that were previously used in the
military.(some foreign, some U.S.) The folks that are involved in these
little projects sink alot of $$$ into them to be sure. Some are presently
flying. They don't fly "alot" because it costs quite a bit just to fuel
them. It is my feeling that these fellows(the ones with a bit more cash)
most likely feel the same way about their project as you feel about yours.
Nuff said???
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 09/08/2000 10:02:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Demilitarization
> means rendering all surplus military
> equipment inoperable, which would
> effectively ground the warbird fleet, an
> important part of our military and aviation
> heritage. >>
I had recently read about an F-16 and an F-18 that were acquired by a Wichita
company for the purpose of refurb. The end result would be for two flying
aircraft to be in civilian hands. The short article said these aircraft were
"demilitarized", and said that the wings were removed and they had other gear
pulled like instruments,
I assume any fire control equiptment etc. I think I'd have to read some of
the fine print on this. But, of course, if it would trully ground the
warbird fleet, it's a no-brainer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 oil cooler change results |
>Hi Brian,
>
>My 7 row positech cooler mounted on the firewall allows me to climb at full
>power all day in Fla and I rarely see oil temps over 190 degrees farenheit.
>Two days ago I made climbs from Sea Level to 9500 feet, the OAT was 95 at
>take off and was 68 degrees at 9,500. I think the trick on firewall cooling
>may be the transition duct from the 3 inch line to the cooler is critical.
>I
>made the diffuser out of aluminum and Rick Caldwell made a similiar one
>out
>of FG and his results are the same.
>
>We are thinking of using the exit air as the source for cabin heat to add a
>little back pressure on the cooler to bring the temps up to Shell
>recommended
>numbers. Egad!
>
>Bernie Kerr, 6A, 160 HP, 80 in Sensenich , SE Fla
Bernie,
Hmm, interesting. The differences I can see are the engine models, mine is
O-360, yours is O-320, and the RV's are different models. I recall seeing
quite different cooling behaviours in the different RV's. Some heat up,
some overcool. Strange. My buddy Pat Kirkpatrick who hangars his -6A with
O-320 and wood prop at the same airport as mine, had the same overheating
problem I had. He fixed it by adding a larger Positech in series with the
first one, which was placed on the baffle. He needed the weight forward for
CG purposes so this served him well. Without the second cooler, summertime
oil temp went to redline after two trips around the pattern. We operate in
some pretty ugly density altitudes here as well. D.A. two days ago here was
8,500'. I'm thinking there must be some effect of atmospheric density on
heat transfer or absorption rates.
Thanks for the input. Nice to know the Positech does work for some folks.
Still, for my RV8/O-360 application, it just won't hack it. Oh well, two
days labor and $240 for the new cooler. I've certainly had worse lessons to
learn in the past. ;)
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | RMD Landing lights |
I didn't want to mess with my leading edge either. NOT that's there's
anything WRONG with that.....
I just installed a RMD light in my left wing tip; right comes next (it flys
fine with only one). Bob at RMD does a really great job on these units.
When I unpacked them, my first thought was: "This is how I would have done
them if I had done them myself." Actually, he does much better than I would
have done.
Installation is not a 2 hour job. It takes some fiber glassing and messing
with getting it to fit like you want it to. The lens also takes some
messing with to get a good fit, but it is Lexan (I think) and is pretty
easy to shape, it just takes a while. There is a video on the installation
(The 'O' Team). The lights: I like 'em. Having the lights WAY out there on
the wing tips makes your airplane look LARGER. And who doesn't need more
visibility.
Have fun..........
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Etching Primer vs. Alodine |
<<>>
The current revision is "F". You might want to search for MIL-P-23377F.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
Right wing closed today
Primer info: http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/primer.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 throttle quad. |
Anyone in RV-land with a flying (or near to it) RV6 or RV6A using Van's (or
similar) throttle quadrant mounted in the center (versus on one side)?
If so how did you handle fuel selector??
And then, did you happen to make it work with the Andair fuel selector???
If so, I REALLY want to know how you did it!! (Please!!!! ;-) )
My problem is that I have sort of "designed" (with input from several of
you) a center console/throttle quadrant for my RV6A and that all looks like
I might be able to make it work. The problem comes when you try to put the
center cable of three cables (power, ***prop***, mixture) in the same space
as where a fuel line would nominally go. The selector is above the lines and
the fuel exits the *bottom* of the selector I plan to use. As a backup, I
have already ordered the "extender" model from Andair and I hope to "offset"
the mixture line just a bit to go around the extender rod and mount the
actual selector lower. But I am looking for a more elegant (and "proven")
solution than mine.
Anybody out there solved this one????
Thanks,
James
RV6AQB Panel and center console
(Custom mods that have added at least two years to the project!! ;-) )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Weir article on Microair 760 . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Several folk mentioned a review Jim did on the Microair 760.
I found a copy on Microair's website and reproduced it at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760vhf.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
Jim,
You just hit the nail on the head. They do not fly alot because it
costs quite a bit to fuel. Ask you friends that when they do fly do
they go out a practice emergency procedures, or any of the other
proficency manuevers. Most do not, they fly to the first fly in
that will pay for their fuel and then home again. Acident waiting to Happen?
Nuff said.
Tom
basic
JNice51355(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I just had to put my two cents worth in on this one. I fly out of Arlington,
> WA. At Arlington, we have quite a few different "projects" on the field.
> Some of these are jet aircraft that were previously used in the
> military.(some foreign, some U.S.) The folks that are involved in these
> little projects sink alot of $$$ into them to be sure. Some are presently
> flying. They don't fly "alot" because it costs quite a bit just to fuel
> them. It is my feeling that these fellows(the ones with a bit more cash)
> most likely feel the same way about their project as you feel about yours.
> Nuff said???
> Jim Nice
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
And I've told my distributor that we'll add both of those
radios to our website as soon as they're available. Right now,
the best they can quote me is early next year . . . what ever
"early" means.
Bob . . .
The transponder is undergoing tests from what I understand. They are
waiting for certification by the FAA and the date keeps getting pushed back.
Hmmm...can you imagine that? The government not being able to meet a
deadline. No offense to our friendly, neighborhood Fed on the list! Or any
other easily offended people either!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 oil cooler change results |
So you don't think moving the cooler had anything to do with the lower
oil temps? I have flown with both (in the same location) and on initial
testing I thought the niagra cooled better. After many hours of flying I
have decided that they both cool about the same with the niagra slightly
better. In fact I am planning on installing the positech again since it
is a heck of a lot more stout.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 oil cooler change results |
Hello Yall
I have had no personal experience yet, but there sure have been a lot
of O-360's and expecially IO-360's with high oil temps on Positech
installs. An area RV8 with an IO360 had high oil temps with a #4215
behind #4 cylinder. He added a #4211 in series on the firewall and temps
came down to normal. I am building an 8 with an IO-360 and did not want
the same problem every one else seems to have. I installed a 7 row
Stewart Warner behind #2 cylinder. There is much more room between the
#2 cylinder and the baffle. Lack of air flow will not be a problem.
Should cool well.
George Meketa
RV8\QB installed all CHT and EGT probes tonight, 80% done\80%
to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
"RV List"
| Subject: | Long cuts in aluminum |
Listers,
I just cut my one piece top skins to size and found a way to make the nearly
10 foot cut easily. I clamped the sheet to a piece of 12 foot particle
board and cut it with a piloted, straight bit in a router using the edge of
the board as a guide. Way easy, very straight, and fast. The bit I used
was a 1/2" straight bit for formica. Smaller would make even less chips. I
highly recommend this as a way to make long cuts.
Aloha,
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | pushrod rivets, etc. |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm trying to rivet the rod ends to the smal pushrods that connect the
bellcrank to the aileron (-6A). The only way I can manage to not bend the
rivet over is to make it way too short, leaving an inadequate shop head.
When the rivet is the proper length it bends right over regardless of how
careful I am. I read a thread on this subject a while back, but can't seem
to pull it up in the archive. Someone said they used a small cupped set on
the shop head side, but that doesn't work for me. I'm pretty much ready to
just get more parts and take them to my local machine shop for welding, but
I thought I'd ask for your experiences first.
I've got another question. I want to run some of Van's flexible conduit
through the wings and am pondering how to drill (enlarge) the holes through
the ribs under the already riveted skins. George O mentions making an
extender for the unibit, but if ain't made out of aluminum I'm not sure I'm
up to it! Just curious as to how some of you folks might have accomplished
this.
Thanks!
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC, RV-6AQB, left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HR4205
>
No two cents here, I've flown with several so called "wanna-be" types in
the CAF and can tell you first hand that they fly one heck of lot safer than
most GA pilots. Chuck Wentworth and his TBM is only one example, full
pre-flight, full take off, enroute and landing check lists that he
verbalizes EVERY time. I suggest you visit any CAF hanger and take a good
look around. From the guys who fly them to the guys who keep they flying
you'll not find any better equiped, better maintaned aircraft and cleaner
hangers. They trying to throw out the baby with with the bath water. IMHO
it's just one more step for anti-gun, anti-military anything crowd. Next
thing you know the Boy Scouts of America will be listed as the bad guys in
this country. Oops too late, thats been done. Kabong
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
Jim,
Electric bob can answer that question for you. I believe he has already
worked it out. Something about this radio can easily be heard 100 miles
away.
>
>
> >and cost, but turned off by its 4 watt transmitter. By my thinking,
> this
> >is pretty low transmitter power for anything except around the
> flagpole
>
>
> Wimpy indeed. My SL-40 puts out 8 watts and even my hand held puts
> out 5. You
> might be able to off set this with a better antenna ( something more
> efficient
> then the quarter wave that most of us have ).
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( FWF )
> O-360 sensenich (85)
> N89JA reserved
> WB5JKB
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pushrod rivets, etc. |
I used a unibit before I put wing skin on to drill holes with a
battery powered drill. I had no trouble with the rivets in pushrod ends.
I used a hand squeezer and it was no different than any other rivets I
have squeezed. Usually when I bend a rivet it is too long or the
squeezer is not lined up with the rivet (trying to squeeze it sideways)
I did put the pushrod in a vise while I squeezed the rivet. I just
don't understand why its giving you a problem unless it is too long.
Cheers, Earl RV4 fighting the canopy frame.
Robert Dickson wrote:
>
>
> I'm trying to rivet the rod ends to the smal pushrods that connect the
> bellcrank to the aileron (-6A). The only way I can manage to not bend the
> rivet over is to make it way too short, leaving an inadequate shop head.
> When the rivet is the proper length it bends right over regardless of how
> careful I am. I read a thread on this subject a while back, but can't seem
> to pull it up in the archive. Someone said they used a small cupped set on
> the shop head side, but that doesn't work for me. I'm pretty much ready to
> just get more parts and take them to my local machine shop for welding, but
> I thought I'd ask for your experiences first.
>
> I've got another question. I want to run some of Van's flexible conduit
> through the wings and am pondering how to drill (enlarge) the holes through
> the ribs under the already riveted skins. George O mentions making an
> extender for the unibit, but if ain't made out of aluminum I'm not sure I'm
> up to it! Just curious as to how some of you folks might have accomplished
> this.
> Thanks!
>
> Robert Dickson
> Fayetteville NC, RV-6AQB, left wing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
Some people see this as just another slow erosion of personal rights and an
extension of federal power. I have seen comments suggesting that this is
similar to the slow erosion of rights in pre ww2 Germany. We all know what
happened there. It is very dangerous to take the attitude that it is ok because
it does not effect you personally. As the person below wrote, someday it may be
your turn and it will be too late as they will come for something you care about
and there will be no one left to protest.
John Starn wrote:
>
> No two cents here, I've flown with several so called "wanna-be" types in
> the CAF and can tell you first hand that they fly one heck of lot safer than
> most GA pilots. Chuck Wentworth and his TBM is only one example, full
> pre-flight, full take off, enroute and landing check lists that he
> verbalizes EVERY time. I suggest you visit any CAF hanger and take a good
> look around. From the guys who fly them to the guys who keep they flying
> you'll not find any better equiped, better maintaned aircraft and cleaner
> hangers. They trying to throw out the baby with with the bath water. IMHO
> it's just one more step for anti-gun, anti-military anything crowd. Next
> thing you know the Boy Scouts of America will be listed as the bad guys in
> this country. Oops too late, thats been done. Kabong
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RMD Landing lights |
. The lens also takes some
> messing with to get a good fit, but it is Lexan (I think) and is pretty
> easy to shape, it just takes a while.
I think it is butyrate, which is very susceptible to solvents. Be careful,
don't get any acetone or other solvents near it or it will fog over.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A O360, Airflow, CS
may fly in '01
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pushrod rivets, etc. |
I had my pushrods welded by a friend. A whole lot easier!
Ed Cole
RV6A Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 6:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: pushrod rivets, etc.
>
> I'm trying to rivet the rod ends to the smal pushrods that connect the
> bellcrank to the aileron (-6A). The only way I can manage to not bend the
> rivet over is to make it way too short, leaving an inadequate shop head.
> When the rivet is the proper length it bends right over regardless of how
> careful I am. I read a thread on this subject a while back, but can't seem
> to pull it up in the archive. Someone said they used a small cupped set on
> the shop head side, but that doesn't work for me. I'm pretty much ready to
> just get more parts and take them to my local machine shop for welding,
but
> I thought I'd ask for your experiences first.
>
> I've got another question. I want to run some of Van's flexible conduit
> through the wings and am pondering how to drill (enlarge) the holes
through
> the ribs under the already riveted skins. George O mentions making an
> extender for the unibit, but if ain't made out of aluminum I'm not sure
I'm
> up to it! Just curious as to how some of you folks might have accomplished
> this.
> Thanks!
>
> Robert Dickson
> Fayetteville NC, RV-6AQB, left wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pushrod rivets, etc. |
I think that what Earl doesn't understand is that if the rivet holes are not
perfectly aligned it is possible for the rivet to keep bending over on
squeezing even if you're using the correct length rivet. Also in a hollow
tube, the rivet will tend to bend and/or swell slightly inside the tube
during squeezing and this can cause misalignment too. To counter this, some
people put a small plug or solid core inside the tube, drill it and insert
the rivet. This procedure which is covered in AC43.13 helped me on one
occasion, but another time I had to have the tube welded! On another tube I
used a Hi-Lok fastener because I couldn't get the rivet to proper
specifications. A local FBO had the special tool & put the fasteners in for
me. If you do this be careful which way you orient the tube (to prevent
interferences) as the fastener has a "nut" or collar on one side which
sticks out farther than a rivet shop head.
good luck,
Phil
Phil Smith, 80691
Fairfax, CA
RV8, 0-320, Hartzell prop, installing electrical
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pushrod rivets, etc. |
Forgot to say that George O. will sell you a unibit extender. I think
they're around ten bucks - mine came in handy for several things.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MicroAir 760 |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Jim,
> Electric bob can answer that question for you. I believe he has
already
>worked it out. Something about this radio can easily be heard 100 miles
>away.
The line of sight capability of a 4 watt transmitter speaking
to a 1 microvolt receiver both on dipole antennas is in EXCESS
of 1000 miles.
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/weir_760.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nmh batteries |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
At 05:18 AM 9/10/00 GMT, you wrote:
>I saw two brands of nmh AA cells in Wally world. Energizer and Ray-o-vac I
>think. Just wondering if they were any better for GPS & hand held radios
>than ni-cad. Same voltage as ni-cad 1.2. Thanks for your many informative
>posts to the Kolb list. Bill in Lousyana
My pleasure sir . . .
My personal favorites for low voltage (4 cells or less) radios are
alkalines . . . they contain much more total energy than most
ni-cads . . . and about the same as run-of-the-mill NmH cells.
The best part is that they start out at 1.5 volts versus 1.25 for
the "nickels" . . .
Go to Dollar General stores and buy their house brand AA nicads.
I've tested these batteries repeatedly and they're withing a few
percent of best bunnybatteries you can buy. Best yet, unburdened
by VERY expensive television and print advertising, is they cost
25 cents per cell . . . A VERY good value.
The only thing that beats this for dollars/joule of energy
stored are the Ray-o-Vac Renew series rechargable alkalines.
The down side of these are you have to have a charger and a place
to plug it in. I buy the Dollar General batteries about 10 packages
at a time and keep plenty of spares in my flight bag.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 oil cooler change results |
Brian: do you know if the Positech would work if you mounted it on the
baffle where you mounted the Niagara? Could be that the baffle mount gives
more air flow which is why the Niagara works there. How about mount your
Positech on the baffle and check the results. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 2:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 oil cooler change results
>
> Listers,
>
> I finally changed out my firewall mounted Positech cooler for a Niagara, 7
> row cooler placed on the rear baffle behind cylinder #4.
>
> Success!
>
> The Positech just wasn't cooling the oil at all. Once the temp got up to
220
> degrees, it would stay there...heat soaked and would not come down until
the
> power came back and the nose went down. Even then, it would take several
> minutes.
>
> I went flying today. (Air temp in mid 80's.) I made a full power climb at
> 100mph, including some turns to really load the engine. Oil temp never
went
> higher than 200 degrees! I'm very pleased and wish I had made the change
> earlier. I can now hold full power during the summer heat without any
> concerns about oil temp. Once I leveled out, the temp dropped back to the
> vernatherm setting of 180 degrees, and it did so within three minutes.
This
> was at about 1,000' AGL (6,500' MSL), in hot, thermally air which formerly
> would send my oil temp to 220 in a hurry while at 2700 rpm. This cooler
and
> it's location on the baffle WORKS. After landing, and sitting on the hot
> ramp, I took a Young Eagle for a ride. Up we went, temp in low 90's, full
> power all the way, oil temp tickled the cool side of 200 then slid right
> back to 180 when the nose went down.
>
> In summary: Positech coolers suck. Oops, maybe that's too harsh. Uh they
> simply are NOT suited for use in aircraft. Yes, they are very nicely made
> and robust. However, they just don't do the job unless you use an oversize
> model and place it where it gets full ram intake air....with no ducting to
> impede airflow. Forget about using the firewall mounting and 3" scat
hose.
> I've been roasting my oil like this since first flight. Egads.
>
> I talked with the owner of a major oil cooler service last year at
> Copperstate and his opinion...after many years in this business, is that
the
> Positechs are totally unsuited for use in any airplane. His preference is
> the Stewart Warner, and after that, the Niagara or Harrison.
>
> So there you have it. My less than scientific oil cooler testing results.
> Take it for what it's worth. Anyone want a used Positech? Would make a
nice
> desk ornament.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> cruisin' cool
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Bob sez:
>> I was disappointed to find that the flasher ties the two lamp circuits
>> together when it's de-energized . . . no big deal on police cars where
>> headlights are normally operated together . . . but a bit of a challange
>> when you'd like to have independent landing and taxi light circuits.
Norm answers:
>I don't see any need to have independent landing and taxi light circuits. I
>will be happy with both of them on one switch. Less complexity, cost, panel
>space, and weight. Simplifies night operations by removing the decision of
>which light to have on at what phase of flight/taxi and the checklist item
>each time to confirm it. This will also keep my aircraft close to what I am
>most familliar with operating at night; cars. I have never had the urge to
>turn one headlight out. If the engine is running then I say light em up!
The downside I see for this is loss of potential redundancy. The single
supply, single switch or common controls does expand possiblity for single
failure to take out both lights.
>Thank-you for proving that the Galls Flasher is possibly the one for me. The
>only thing that concerns me is the post that mentioned that they are heavy.
>How heavy? Can any one offer weight comparisons with other brands such as
Why not option 3? Less expensive than Galls, MUCH lighter, relay is
NOT potted into the assembly and therefore easily replaced.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com> |
| Subject: | HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question |
Question for all you airplane building guru's. How do you rivet the HS ribs
to the front HS spar using #4 rivets without destroying the thing? This is
enough to make me question my ability to build this plane!
First I will assume that most people hand drive most of these because my
Avery squeezer with a 2.5" yoke will not do the job.
Next I will assume that you have to put the shop head on the back of the
spar because the rivet gun will not fit in between the front and rear spar.
Finally I will assume that you use a double offset cupped set for these
because you can't get a straight shot at the heads with a straight one.
Well with all my assumptions, I have had to drill out about 15 rivets! I
ended up with 3 rivets that would just pass inspection on the right side
where the 608 and 607 intersect the front spar. I ended up with 2 good ones
on the left for the same ribs but the third has a buggered up hole that is
now figure 8'ed.
Now what do I do?
1. Scrap the whole mess?
2. Drill it out to an oversize?
3. Stick in a CherryMax?
4. Forget it and drive on?
5. Sell this stuff and tell everyone I almost built an airplane?
6. Other?
How do you guys rivet the #4 rivets on such thin metal without trashing the
pieces?
Thanks for any help!
Brian Chesteen
RV-6 Emp ( I think )
: (
name="Brian Chesteen.vcf"
filename="Brian Chesteen.vcf"
BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Chesteen;Brian;;Mr.
FN:Brian Chesteen
ORG:Brantel Company LLC
TITLE:President
TEL;WORK;VOICE:(423)231-7142
TEL;HOME;VOICE:(423)623-9888
TEL;CELL;VOICE:(423)231-7142
TEL;PAGER;VOICE:(423)231-7142
TEL;WORK;FAX:(423)623-5887
TEL;HOME;FAX:(423)623-5887
ADR;WORK:;;1228 Petunia Road;Newport;Tennessee;37821;USA
Road0D0ANewport, Tennessee 378210D0AUSA
ADR;HOME:;;1228 Petunia Road;Newport;Tennessee;37821;USA
Road0D0ANewport, Tennessee 378210D0AUSA
URL:http://www.planetc.com/users/brantel
URL:http://www.planetc.com/users/brantel
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:chesteen(at)morristownelectric.com
REV:20000910T194634Z
END:VCARD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nmh batteries |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
September 03, 2000 - September 10, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jf