RV-Archive.digest.vol-jg
September 10, 2000 - September 15, 2000
>Bob----Dollar General NICADS, or Alkalines? I think you meant alkalines,
>didn't you?
Opps . . . yes. Thanks for the heads up.
Dollar General has a "Powerize" brand
"long lasting Alkaline" cell that sells
in our local stores for $1.50/pkg of 6 cells.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question |
In a message dated 9/10/00 3:51:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bchesteen(at)planetc.com writes:
<< spar >>
brian, we all have been frustrated especially on the first couple of pieces.
GET A PNEUMATIC SQUEEZER. yes they are expensive, but i will never hand
squeeze another. you wont believe how effortless it is. plus, remember to
measure rivet length (in hole) b 4 u rivet-again avery has a little tool or u
can make your own. i have found out that not always are the plans correct.
after a while you will catch that b 4 u begin. if a rivet is too long the
will have a tendency to smudge over. also if you boogered up some holes
(enlarged) move up to a 5/32, again you must purchase these over sized rivets
if you not have wing kit yet. trying to re rivet in an enlarged hole will
give you same results-a bigger booger. i have been told when i was at your
stage of building, "your not going to build a perfect airplane especially the
first one. :)" you might call vans if it makes you feel better, which we all
have done. we all order extra pieces for time to time. above all, DON'T GIVE
UP !!!!!! it is way to early. your building ability will get better. the
learning curve on the tail is very steep. hang tuff. if you need to i would
be glad to talk to you via phone. contact me off list (email) if... bob in
arkansas doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Galls wig/wag flasher . . . |
Norm,
The Solid State WigWag Controller, SSWW, that we designed to control the
leading edge lamps has the redundancy that you mentioned. This controller
has two inputs from two fuses or circuit breakers. One input is switched by
the SSWW to one light and the other fuse or CB is switched to the other
leading edge light. The SSWW controller draws its power from whichever
input is still working. If one of the fuses or CBs opens, only the light
that connects via one of two of the SSWW's solid state switches is inoperable.
For builders who want simpler wiring, the two power inputs to the SSWW can
be tied together and connect to only one fuse or circuit breaker.
The many possible switch and switch combinations that can be used
to control the SSWW makes it very easy to add the WigWag function to your
plane and your existing panel thus improving your viability and
noticeablity for added safety and also the redundancy mentioned by Norm.
Regarding adding the SSWW to your installation, you can probably use the
same switches and get more functionality. Very likely you can combine
switches into fewer switch(s) used to control the SSWW. If you have wanted
more switches but had no more room, this could free up a
switch. Similarly, if you wanted to add another switch and wanted it to
match the
If you would like a data sheet regarding the many features and benefits of
the SSWW plus example diagrams of a few of the many ways the SSWW can be
installed using different switches and switch combinations, send a request
and I will reply with this as an attachment.
Bob
At 12:16 PM 9/10/00 , you wrote:
>
>
>Bob sez:
> >> I was disappointed to find that the flasher ties the two lamp circuits
> >> together when it's de-energized . . . no big deal on police cars where
> >> headlights are normally operated together . . . but a bit of a challange
> >> when you'd like to have independent landing and taxi light circuits.
>
>Norm answers:
>
> >I don't see any need to have independent landing and taxi light circuits. I
> >will be happy with both of them on one switch. Less complexity, cost, panel
> >space, and weight. Simplifies night operations by removing the decision of
> >which light to have on at what phase of flight/taxi and the checklist item
> >each time to confirm it. This will also keep my aircraft close to what I am
> >most familliar with operating at night; cars. I have never had the urge to
> >turn one headlight out. If the engine is running then I say light em up!
>
> The downside I see for this is loss of potential redundancy. The single
> supply, single switch or common controls does expand possiblity for single
> failure to take out both lights.
>
> >Thank-you for proving that the Galls Flasher is possibly the one for me. The
> >only thing that concerns me is the post that mentioned that they are heavy.
> >How heavy? Can any one offer weight comparisons with other brands such as
>
> Why not option 3? Less expensive than Galls, MUCH lighter, relay is
> NOT potted into the assembly and therefore easily replaced.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Hyde" <nauga(at)brick.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 wings/no engine |
Thanks to everyone that responded. General consensus was
that it'd be OK or even preferrable to mount the engine w/o wings.
Turns out I couldn't get the Lord mounts I needed, so I mounted
the wings yesterday anyway. Not _nearly_ as difficult as I expected.
I'll do as much as I can with 'em on, then yank them again to finish the
panel, engine, and fuselage overlap. Sure looks nice after months with
little _visible_ progress.
Dave '2 wings and flies' Hyde
nauga(at)brick.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question |
What you do is buy a 4"" yoke for the squeezer. At least that's what I
used.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 2:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question
>
>
> Question for all you airplane building guru's. How do you rivet the HS
ribs
> to the front HS spar using #4 rivets without destroying the thing? This
is
> enough to make me question my ability to build this plane!
>
> First I will assume that most people hand drive most of these because my
> Avery squeezer with a 2.5" yoke will not do the job.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question |
>
>
>Question for all you airplane building guru's. How do you rivet the HS ribs
>to the front HS spar using #4 rivets without destroying the thing? This is
>enough to make me question my ability to build this plane!
>
>First I will assume that most people hand drive most of these because my
>Avery squeezer with a 2.5" yoke will not do the job.
>
>Next I will assume that you have to put the shop head on the back of the
>spar because the rivet gun will not fit in between the front and rear spar.
>
>Finally I will assume that you use a double offset cupped set for these
>because you can't get a straight shot at the heads with a straight one.
>
>Well with all my assumptions, I have had to drill out about 15 rivets! I
>ended up with 3 rivets that would just pass inspection on the right side
>where the 608 and 607 intersect the front spar. I ended up with 2 good ones
>on the left for the same ribs but the third has a buggered up hole that is
>now figure 8'ed.
>
>Now what do I do?
>1. Scrap the whole mess?
>2. Drill it out to an oversize?
>3. Stick in a CherryMax?
>4. Forget it and drive on?
>5. Sell this stuff and tell everyone I almost built an airplane?
>6. Other?
>
>How do you guys rivet the #4 rivets on such thin metal without trashing the
>pieces?
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>Brian Chesteen
>RV-6 Emp ( I think )
>
>: (
I don't recall how I did this part, but I'll add a few lessons
learned the hard way.
1. Practice on lots of scrap first.
2. Offset and double offset sets tend to turn in the gun. I use duct
tape between the set and the gun to minimize the amount it can turn.
3. Hockey shin pad tape (like clear packing tape, but much thicker
and more flexible) on the AN470 rivet set helps keep the set from
coming off the rivet. I wouldn't believe how much this helped until
I tried it. You'll end up with rivet heads that look like a
pneumatic squeezer was used instead of a rivet gun. Masking tape is
a poor substitute.
4. Van often calls out the wrong length rivets. Check them yourself.
5. Sometimes for the really tricky rivets I cheat a tiny bit and cut
the rivets down to be just less than 1.5 dia long. This helps keep
them from tipping over, but leaves less margin between not driven
enough and over driven.
6. MIL-R-47196A "Rivets, Buck Type, Preparation for and Installation
of" available at <http://home.flash.net/~gila/> has lots of info on
minimum rivet heights and diameters. You can go a bit less than 0.5
dia height and 1.5 dia diameter if needed.
7. Some days are not meant for riveting. If it is not going well
stop and do something else.
8. Sometimes if you've really screwed up a rivet two or three times
the answer is to just leave it alone and drill an additional hole or
two and put in extra rivets in between the screwed up ones. You need
at least 3 dia between rivet holes (measured centre to centre).
9. You need lots of different shape bucking bars. Go to a scrap yard
and get some different size and shape hunks of steel. A few minutes
with a grinding wheel and scotchbrite wheel and you've got a bucking
bar. Put some duct tape on the parts of the bar you aren't using to
keep it from marking up the primer if it bounces around.
10. I use a pneumatic squeezer where possible, but don't try to force
it where it obviously isn't meant to fit.
11. If you've mangled the flange on a part sometimes you can cut it
off and rivet on a new flange. Make sure you use enough rivets to
carry the load between the part and the new flange. AC 43.13-1B,
available at <http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/> has info on how
many rivets are needed for this type of repair.
AC 43.13-1B is also available from the FAA web site at
<http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/300/pdf/1a-cover.pdf>. Once you reach the
cover of AC 43.13-1B, click in the blue box which will take you to
the first page of the AC. To continue, click in the blue box of the
first page. This will take you to the contents. Continue by clicking
on the black boxes containing the titles the sections within the
chapters.
Hang in there - we've all had days like this.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 oil cooler change results |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 oil cooler change results
Listers,
I finally changed out my firewall mounted Positech cooler for a Niagara,
7
row cooler placed on the rear baffle behind cylinder #4.
Success!
The Positech just wasn't cooling the oil at all. Once the temp got up to
220
degrees, it would stay there...heat soaked and would not come down until
the
power came back and the nose went down. Even then, it would take several
minutes.
In summary: Positech coolers suck. Oops, maybe that's too harsh. Uh they
simply are NOT suited for use in aircraft. Yes, they are very nicely
made
and robust. However, they just don't do the job unless you use an
oversize
model and place it where it gets full ram intake air....with no ducting
to
impede airflow. Forget about using the firewall mounting and 3" scat
hose.
I've been roasting my oil like this since first flight. Egads.
So there you have it. My less than scientific oil cooler testing results.
Take it for what it's worth. Anyone want a used Positech? Would make a
nice
desk ornament.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
cruisin' cool
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
-
Brian (said with a big long sigh)
This is not meant as a flame towards you in any way but I just wanted to
once again remind everyone how much of an error it can be in assuming
this kind of information is useful or should be considered to be relevant
for their particular airplane.
You made more than one change. My guess is that the change in location
had the most effect on your oil temps.
You didn't provide any info on what your remote cooler installation was
like. They rarely allow for direct straight runs of scat hose from the
air source to the cooler. If you look inside of some scat hose and then
put a bend in it you can see the effect (major) that it can have on the
air flow.
Put a couple of 90 deg. bends in it and the effect can be significant
(though I don't know if that was a factor in your case).
I have been preaching on this list for 3 years now to mount you cooler on
the rear baffle "If" you will be doing lots of flying in an environment
where cooling might be an issue (meaning "HOT"). If you live/fly mostly
in a cooler climate then it doesn't matter much.
A useful report would be if you reinstalled the positech cooler in the
same location as the niagra and then get a comparison while flying the
same types of flights (and conditions) that you described.
I am not making this post to defend the positech coolers. There is
evidence that they cool a little less efficiently than some of the
others, but I believe other factors have a bigger effect on the oil temp
(type of installation, quality of work done on baffle installation,
condition of the engine, etc.).
I am running one on the new RV-9A as test and I plan to see how it does
at Copperstate In PHX in about 5 weeks. So far it has been doing
fine...we will see.
The bottom line point I wish to make (again) is that you need to fully
consider all of the issues when presenting information to other on the
list, and anyone on the list needs to accept informations
value/applicability with the same level of thinking.
Once again... No flame intended.
Brian is a great guy who has spent a lot of time participating/helping on
the RV list.
He even bought me lunch once during a fuel stop on my way to the Abilene
TX fly-in.
Thanks again Brain, see you at Copperstate.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
"Brian Chesteen"
| Subject: | Re: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question |
Also, accepted practice is for the shop head to be on the thinner material,
and the shop head facing forward. Good luck with this one, but one could
argue either want and not have to place the rivet gun between the spars to
do the riveting of the front spar. I used rivet tape, magic scotch tape, and
black electrical tape on rivet heads. Don't really know what is better, but
the electrical tape does last longer.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question
>
> >
> >
> >Question for all you airplane building guru's. How do you rivet the HS
ribs
> >to the front HS spar using #4 rivets without destroying the thing? This
is
> >enough to make me question my ability to build this plane!
> >
> >First I will assume that most people hand drive most of these because my
> >Avery squeezer with a 2.5" yoke will not do the job.
> >
> >Next I will assume that you have to put the shop head on the back of the
> >spar because the rivet gun will not fit in between the front and rear
spar.
> >
> >Finally I will assume that you use a double offset cupped set for these
> >because you can't get a straight shot at the heads with a straight one.
> >
> >Well with all my assumptions, I have had to drill out about 15 rivets! I
> >ended up with 3 rivets that would just pass inspection on the right side
> >where the 608 and 607 intersect the front spar. I ended up with 2 good
ones
> >on the left for the same ribs but the third has a buggered up hole that
is
> >now figure 8'ed.
> >
> >Now what do I do?
> >1. Scrap the whole mess?
> >2. Drill it out to an oversize?
> >3. Stick in a CherryMax?
> >4. Forget it and drive on?
> >5. Sell this stuff and tell everyone I almost built an airplane?
> >6. Other?
> >
> >How do you guys rivet the #4 rivets on such thin metal without trashing
the
> >pieces?
> >
> >Thanks for any help!
> >
> >Brian Chesteen
> >RV-6 Emp ( I think )
> >
> >: (
>
> I don't recall how I did this part, but I'll add a few lessons
> learned the hard way.
>
> 1. Practice on lots of scrap first.
>
> 2. Offset and double offset sets tend to turn in the gun. I use duct
> tape between the set and the gun to minimize the amount it can turn.
>
> 3. Hockey shin pad tape (like clear packing tape, but much thicker
> and more flexible) on the AN470 rivet set helps keep the set from
> coming off the rivet. I wouldn't believe how much this helped until
> I tried it. You'll end up with rivet heads that look like a
> pneumatic squeezer was used instead of a rivet gun. Masking tape is
> a poor substitute.
>
> 4. Van often calls out the wrong length rivets. Check them yourself.
>
> 5. Sometimes for the really tricky rivets I cheat a tiny bit and cut
> the rivets down to be just less than 1.5 dia long. This helps keep
> them from tipping over, but leaves less margin between not driven
> enough and over driven.
>
> 6. MIL-R-47196A "Rivets, Buck Type, Preparation for and Installation
> of" available at <http://home.flash.net/~gila/> has lots of info on
> minimum rivet heights and diameters. You can go a bit less than 0.5
> dia height and 1.5 dia diameter if needed.
>
> 7. Some days are not meant for riveting. If it is not going well
> stop and do something else.
>
> 8. Sometimes if you've really screwed up a rivet two or three times
> the answer is to just leave it alone and drill an additional hole or
> two and put in extra rivets in between the screwed up ones. You need
> at least 3 dia between rivet holes (measured centre to centre).
>
> 9. You need lots of different shape bucking bars. Go to a scrap yard
> and get some different size and shape hunks of steel. A few minutes
> with a grinding wheel and scotchbrite wheel and you've got a bucking
> bar. Put some duct tape on the parts of the bar you aren't using to
> keep it from marking up the primer if it bounces around.
>
> 10. I use a pneumatic squeezer where possible, but don't try to force
> it where it obviously isn't meant to fit.
>
> 11. If you've mangled the flange on a part sometimes you can cut it
> off and rivet on a new flange. Make sure you use enough rivets to
> carry the load between the part and the new flange. AC 43.13-1B,
> available at <http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/> has info on how
> many rivets are needed for this type of repair.
>
> AC 43.13-1B is also available from the FAA web site at
> <http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/300/pdf/1a-cover.pdf>. Once you reach the
> cover of AC 43.13-1B, click in the blue box which will take you to
> the first page of the AC. To continue, click in the blue box of the
> first page. This will take you to the contents. Continue by clicking
> on the black boxes containing the titles the sections within the
> chapters.
>
> Hang in there - we've all had days like this.
>
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvpilot" <rvpilot(at)coollink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy skirt fit on RV-8 |
Jim,
Make it fit as tight as you can, then after all is painted-seal it with the
fuzzy half of 3/4 inch velcro stuck to the inside of the canopy skirt. It
makes a perfect seal.
Bill RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 12:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy skirt fit on RV-8
>
>
> Can anyone tell me how close the canopy skirt is suppose to fit next to
the
> fuselage? I know "the tighter the better" but at some point it starts
> scratching up the paint.
>
> Many thanks in advance,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( lost in a fiberglass cloud of dust )
> O-360 Sensenich (85)
> N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question |
> > Question for all you airplane building guru's. How do you rivet the HS
> ribs
> > to the front HS spar using #4 rivets without destroying the thing? This
> is
> > enough to make me question my ability to build this plane!
> >
> > First I will assume that most people hand drive most of these because my
> > Avery squeezer with a 2.5" yoke will not do the job.
Something else you can do is **ahem** bend the rib outta the way, rivet the
thing, then bend it back. The only thing that really gets bent is the rib
flange, and it doesn't take much of a tweak to give yourself better access
with the rivet gun.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Just too much fun |
>
>
> Ok, so I was a little bored at work yesterday. Not
> that I didn't have work to do, but my thoughts were
> outside with the clouds.
>
> Ed Cole just happened to send me a note about one of
> my instrument panels, and just by chance, Garry
> Legare had also sent me a note about testing with
> his 85" Sensenich prop. Now both of the guys just
> happen to fly out of Reid-Hillview, near San Jose.
> And Ken Kreuger had just happened to fly the RV-9a
> down for the Golden State fly-in and the Thursday
> night RV builders meeting at Reid-Hillview. Both Ed
> and Garry were going to be there so......
>
> So about 2pm, it popped into my head.....Why not fly
> the RV up to Reid-Hillview for the evening. Now I
> happen to live down in LA, (thanks for the
> sympathy), so I pull out the WAC chart to see how
> far it would be. It looked like about an hour and a
> half or so depending on winds. (Now the last time
> I drove up there it took close to 8 hrs).
>
> Let see....make up some lame excuse to leave work a
> little early.....preflight the RV......and wheels up
> by 4:30. An hour and a half later I'm in the
> pattern at Reid-Hillview. TOO COOL!
>
> I get the chance to meet a lot of nice RV people,
> show off the RV, and talk with Ed and Garry about
> some of the issues we were emailing about. (It's so
> much nicer to talk with folks face to face). I also
> talked a little with Ken about the RV-9A, and Harmon
> Lange (the gentleman that make out landing gears).
>
> After Ken had talked a little about Homecoming, the
> new factory, and the RV-9a, I preflighted the RV,
> got the maps and flight plan in order and headed off
> for the night flight home. I had forgotten how nice
> flying at night is.
>
> I was home by 11:00. On the flight home, I'm
> cruising at 9500 to clear some terrain in nice
> smooth clear air thinking back about the whole
> process of building my own airplane and how lucky I
> really am to be at this place in time.
>
> I just couldn't help to giggle as I was closing up
> the hangar. Just 10 hours earlier I was at work and
> thinking about the clouds. Now I had traveled 1/2
> way up the coast of California, hung out with some
> nice folks, and flown with the clouds. Man....Is
> life good right now or what?
>
> And to make a good night even better, I won a
> canopy cover as a door prize. I don't think it gets
> any better that.
>
> Keep pounding those rivets.....It's SOOOO worth it.
>
> Happy flying,
>
> Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 80 hrs
> O-360, Sensenich (83)
> Simi Valley, SoCal
Laird:
It was good seeing you at RHV. I had a business trip
to Sunnyvale on Thursday the 7th so flew my RV-6 from
CCB in SoCAL to RHV. Flew 2300 RPM, 23", burning 7
GPH, and had a ground speed over 160 all the way.
Occasionally was seeing grounds speeds over 170. My
little 160 HP took 1:45 but then CCB is farther from
RHV than WHP.
Ed Cole piked me up at RHV and took me too my rental
car. Thanks Ed. It was then off to the Corporate
Apartment and work. Drove back to RHV for the EAA
meeting and talking to all the people.
There was not much work going on on Friday so I took
off early. Depart RHV and flew to RIU. Topped off
the tanks, picked up Randy and few to SAC for the
Golden West. Looked over all the displays then helped
Ken with Van's booth. Randy was putting me up for the
night and also Ken. At the end of the day, Ken and I
briefed for an RV flight of 2 for the trip to Rancho
Muretta. The RV-9A with two on board broke ground in
2/3's the distance of my RV-6 with 2 on board. The
160 HP MT Prop on the RV-9A out accelerated my 160 HP
Hartzell prop RV-6. We leveled off at 2,500 for the
short flight to RIU. Ken and I both briefed using the
radio and going to full throttle to compare the RV-6
to the RV-9A. The RV-9A started to pull away from my
RV-6. As I got full power in, the RV-9A appeared to
be sightly faster than my RV-6. We only held full
power for about 2 minutes and speed was over 160 KTAS.
This was not a scientific test and may not be
repeatable. The bottom line is the RV-9A does fly
slower than the RV-6 and appears to be just as fast if
not sightly faster.
Ken and I briefed and debriefed all the flights to and
from SAC - RIU. The RV-9A is a beautiful airplane in
flight and Ken is a great pilot to fly wing on. If
you were at the Golden West Fly-In early Saturday and
Sunday, you would have seen the RV Flight of Two
arrival in the morning. We also departed as a flight
of two Friday and Saturday evening.
The RV is a great airplane. Keep pounding those
rivets. In the end you will find it is worth it.
Laird, you are only just starting to realize what life
is like having your own airplane. On 19 September, it
will be 3 years since my first flight. I keep
pinching myself that this wonderful airplane is mine.
It is unbelievable how may fantastic people it has
allow me to meet and places that I have gone.
As of 10 September 2000, there is 684.9 hours on my
RV-6. The airplane has flown 22.4 hours this month.
I am having lots of fun trying to wear it out. :-)
The joy the airplane has given me is worth twice the
price and work it has taken.
Thanks Van, for helping my dream of owning, building,
and flying my own airplane come true.
After flying with the RV-9A this weekend, it appears
that you have come up with another GREAT airplane.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
650+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
"I never knew what real happiness was until I got married; and then it was too
late..." - Jack Handey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question |
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Full-name: Bobpaulo
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 16:49:34 EDT
Subject: Re: RV-List: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question
In a message dated 9/10/00 3:51:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bchesteen(at)planetc.com writes:
<< spar >>
brian, we all have been frustrated especially on the first couple of pieces.
GET A PNEUMATIC SQUEEZER. yes they are expensive, but i will never hand
squeeze another. you wont believe how effortless it is. plus, remember to
measure rivet length (in hole) b 4 u rivet-again avery has a little tool or u
can make your own. i have found out that not always are the plans correct.
after a while you will catch that b 4 u begin. if a rivet is too long the
will have a tendency to smudge over. also if you boogered up some holes
(enlarged) move up to a 5/32, again you must purchase these over sized rivets
if you not have wing kit yet. trying to re rivet in an enlarged hole will
give you same results-a bigger booger. i have been told when i was at your
stage of building, "your not going to build a perfect airplane especially the
first one. :)" you might call vans if it makes you feel better, which we all
have done. we all order extra pieces for time to time. above all, DON'T GIVE
UP !!!!!! it is way to early. your building ability will get better. the
learning curve on the tail is very steep. hang tuff. if you need to i would
be glad to talk to you via phone. contact me off list (email) if... bob in
arkansas doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question |
Longeron yoke, made for those situations, 'bout best piece of riveting
steel I have. Just wish it was the first yoke I obtained!!
Gert
Stephen Johnson wrote:
>
>
> What you do is buy a 4"" yoke for the squeezer. At least that's what I
> used.
>
> Steve Johnson
>
> RV-8 #80121
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Chesteen" <bchesteen(at)planetc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 2:46 PM
> Subject: RV-List: HS Front spar and Rib Riveting Question
>
> >
> >
> > Question for all you airplane building guru's. How do you rivet the HS
> ribs
> > to the front HS spar using #4 rivets without destroying the thing? This
> is
> > enough to make me question my ability to build this plane!
> >
> > First I will assume that most people hand drive most of these because my
> > Avery squeezer with a 2.5" yoke will not do the job.
> >
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | first wing rib positon measurment (6) |
am i correct that i measure from the TOP inboard of the spar to get the 22.5
inch first rib position? i first measured and marked then i figured i would
turn spar over and measure from the bottom to get perfect 90 degree
alignment. wow, way off, then i remembered, then looked and see that the spar
in not true 90 degrees at the inboard edge (cut for dihedral). last post for
awhile-promise, bob in ark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Air Force Data Plates |
Just wanted to let folks know that the Vans Air Force data plates are now
available from Van's. These are very nice stainless steel plates. See a
picture at http://www.edt.com/homewing/emblem.html.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Figure 10-10? Drawing 62 |
Good Evening,
I am finishing (HA!) my RV-6A S-cowl. The manual and drawing 61 shows a
complicated bracket that I guess I have to make to hold the aft part of the
lower cowl in place. The manual refers me to figure 10-10 and Drawing 62
for more details on how the whole thing goes together.
Problem is, I never got Drawing 62 and the manual has no figures for part
10. I am I missing something?
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: battery trade-offs |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Also take a look at:
>
>http://www.avionicswest.com/batterylife.html#Life
>
>
> --Duane
Thanks for the heads up on this one. I've captured it
and will include it in a bibliography of information
I'm gatering on people's practical experience with batteries.
It's interesting to note that the most expensive batteries
(nicad and/or nimh) had the lowest operating life even when
they claimed 1600 maH of capacity, some jelly-bean brands
of alkalines performed longer.
The author seems enamored of the 1-cent per battery
cycle for battery cost . . . which is indeed a valid
consideration. For me personally, the long battery life
(radio never needs batteries in flight) and convenience
of throwaway is more important . . . PROVIDED that I don't
pay $5.00/set for batteries.
With my Dollar Generals, it costs me $1 to battery up
the Magellan 2000 and $0.50 for the 300. That's $1.50
per flight for 100% servicability of both radios. When
I burn $85 worth of fuel per flight and pay about $240
in rental, the $1.50 is a pretty tiny part of the total
cost. My personal quest is for maximized flight system
reliability while minimizing cost and inconvenience of dealing
with chargers, etc. away from home base.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Citabria for sale |
Fellow Listers:
Please forgive a blatant commercial, but thought I might spread the word my
Citabria is for sale. I am in the processes of purchasing a completed RV-4
(but still will continue working on my -4 out in the garage). It is 1975
7GCBC, beautifully restored. If you know of anyone interested, please let
me know. For details, please contact me off list.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bmaynard507(at)cs.com |
Calling any completed RVers,
I am inviting any RVer, who are flying, particularly RV6A. to come over to
Stennis International Airport, MS to perform a good inspection/ make good or
bad comments on my almost completed RV6A. I preparing right now for the FAA
inspection. I can only promise good conversation, pizza, and soda. Even if
just one person would be enough.
Thanks.
P.S. I can feel that RV grin a coming.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | need ant for microair 760 |
Can anyone suggest a good, cheap, low profile antenna for the microair radio.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: need ant for microair 760 |
> Can anyone suggest a good, cheap, low profile antenna for the microair
radio.
> Carey Mills
Carey: I've been impressed with the ruggedness and fine profile of the
stainless steel quarter wave whip antenna supplied with my AmeriKing AK-450
ELT. I consider it low-drag due to its thin-ness, altho it is about 22
inches long. No loading coil in the middle like the chrome-plated antenna
that Ack uses on their ELT; that piece of junk will soon rust; I know from
experience.
Please note this is not an endorsement of the AK-450, which has given me more
grief than I ever bargained for (twice I've turned it on and not been able to
turn it off again;; the factory "fixed" it both times, no known reason for
the failure, but I no longer test the unit monthly even though they say to!)
The antenna is avilable separately from AmeriKing and seems well-engineered.
Remember that there are many no-drag concealed antenna options available to
us, both as canopy and as wingtip mounted designs. Check the archives for
what I'm sure is a wealth of information.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/FP Sensenich
Hop-Along Airfield - 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Dynafocal 1 or Dynafocal 2??? |
I have the oportunity to buy a used O-320 D3G. Vans
manual states that the "D" means dynafocal, but how do
I know if its a "dynafocal 1" or "dynafocal 2"?
I have a dynafocal 1 engine mount fixed on my 6A. Will
this engine work?
Dan DeNeal
Working on the fiberglass :
(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynafocal 1 or Dynafocal 2??? |
Hi Dan,
You're in luck....the "D" is the type 1 mount.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 10:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dynafocal 1 or Dynafocal 2???
>
> I have the oportunity to buy a used O-320 D3G. Vans
> manual states that the "D" means dynafocal, but how do
> I know if its a "dynafocal 1" or "dynafocal 2"?
>
> I have a dynafocal 1 engine mount fixed on my 6A. Will
> this engine work?
>
> Dan DeNeal
> Working on the fiberglass :
(
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrant/Center Console in an RV6(A) REQUEST .. |
I mistakenly replied to another thread and this had the wrong title. So if
you skipped it before, please see request below.
Anyone out there with an answer?? Another builder has suggested that the
angle of the cables *might* make this a non-issue, but I am still seeking
comments from someone who has "been there".
Thanks, James
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2000 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 throttle quad.
>
> Anyone in RV-land with a flying (or near to it) RV6 or RV6A using Van's
(or
> similar) throttle quadrant mounted in the center (versus on one side)?
>
> If so how did you handle fuel selector??
>
> And then, did you happen to make it work with the Andair fuel selector???
>
> If so, I REALLY want to know how you did it!! (Please!!!! ;-) )
>
> My problem is that I have sort of "designed" (with input from several of
> you) a center console/throttle quadrant for my RV6A and that all looks
like
> I might be able to make it work. The problem comes when you try to put the
> center cable of three cables (power, ***prop***, mixture) in the same
space
> as where a fuel line would nominally go. The selector is above the lines
and
> the fuel exits the *bottom* of the selector I plan to use. As a backup, I
> have already ordered the "extender" model from Andair and I hope to
"offset"
> the mixture line just a bit to go around the extender rod and mount the
> actual selector lower. But I am looking for a more elegant (and "proven")
> solution than mine.
>
> Anybody out there solved this one????
>
> Thanks,
>
> James
> RV6AQB Panel and center console
> (Custom mods that have added at least two years to the project!! ;-) )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 oil cooler change results |
I bought a positech to put on the rear baffle of my 0-360 rv-6a and found
it won't fit. There is clearly not enough room between the mount and baffle
for the cooler. Did I buy the wrong one??? I have heard the stewart is a wee
bit smaller... I was simply going to mount it up front, but I'd prefer it on
the rear baffle.
I haven't read anyone else having the same problem, is it just me???
Steven DiNieri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 oil cooler change results |
In a message dated 9/11/00 12:24:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
capsteve(at)adelphia.net writes:
> I bought a positech to put on the rear baffle of my 0-360 rv-6a and
found
> it won't fit. There is clearly not enough room between the mount and baffle
> for the cooler. Did I buy the wrong one??? I have heard the stewart is a
wee
> bit smaller... I was simply going to mount it up front, but I'd prefer it
on
> the rear baffle.
> I haven't read anyone else having the same problem, is it just me???
> Steven DiNieri
There is a flange at the rear of the oil cooler that often gets a "D" shaped
relief area ground or filed into it to make it clear the engine mount.
Before I did mine, I looked under the "hood" of several RV's which used this
method. By the way, I found that, on my -6, I came out better by mounting
the cooler square with the rear baffle instead of angled as shown on the
baffle plans.
One thing to remember is that you don't need a whole lot of clearance with
something mounted this close to the engine mount. It won't move much. I've
got about 1/4" inch minimum on mine, but have seen several with less
clearance. In fact, in the RV-8 that was at the Skybolt tent at SNF, I think
the cooler touched the engine mount. I wouldn't be happy about that, but
what do I know...
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Problem's At Van's Because of move |
Just my two cents on this issue and I'll keep brief. Friday before the
holiday weekend, I ordered some two foot pieces of angle stock and two other
small bits that I had screwed up. Told the nice lady to expedite if she could
(she had given me the "two weeks behind" on shipping orders) and she said
maybe they could ship that afternoon. Long story short, I got the order about
noon on Wednesday, three working days after placing the order, including the
day I placed it. To my waay of thinking, that's not bad service. Granted it
was a small order. Incidentally, I've mentioned this before, but I have a
flag on my account that requires shipping by Fedex. Much faster to the east
coast (So. FL) than UPS, who usually take two weeks. Andy Johnson, fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 oil cooler change results |
Steven DiNieri wrote:
>
I bought a positech to put on the rear baffle of my 0-360 rv-6a
and found it won't fit. There is clearly not enough room between the
mount and baffle for the cooler. Did I buy the wrong one??? I have heard
the stewart is a wee bit smaller... I was simply going to mount it up
front, but I'd prefer it on the rear baffle. I haven't read anyone else
having the same problem, is it just me???
Steven DiNieri
Steve,
I was just over at Dave Biddle's house today looking at his O-360 A1A
installation in his RV-6A. He had the same problem. He had ordered the
Positech model #4215, which is the one that Van's recommends for the
IO-360, and also the O-360 in a hot climate. (I think Phoenix
qualifies.) Just like you found out, he discovered it wouldn't fit. It
was a little too wide to fit in behind the baffle without hitting the
engine mount. He thought about offsetting the cooler a little bit to
the outside, but there wasn't enough room because of the close fit of
the cowling there.
So Dave ordered and just received the next smaller Positech cooler,
model #4211 I think. It fits, but he is wondering if it's going to cool
well enough for summers here. If you want to talk to him about it, his
e-mail is dbiddle(at)wans.net.
George True
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip lights/Strobe on VSl? |
<<< I will be order ring the bladder busters (wing
tip tanks) for my RV-8 next
> > week and not sure which lights to go with -
external or internal. I assume
> > the internal option is the Airtech lights.>>>
>
> Are,
>
> The best option for what you want, is to fit
Duckworth lights in the wings, and go with the tip
tanks, that allow the nav light/strobe assy to be
fitted externally. I am fitting the Whelan nav
light/strobe (model A650) without the rear tail
light, and this model is OK for the standard tip
tank. If you fit model A600 you will need to fit
Vans nav light extension (they are in the
catalogue). BTW, the tip tanks without the
internal lights, have a slightly greater capacity.
The majority of tip tanks sold in Australia have
been the external light option. The guys that I
have talked with, have gone that way.
There is no heat problem with the Duckworth lights
in the wing, as any heat build-up is well
ventilated.
I would also go with a combo strobe/tail light in
the rudder faring, or have the VS strobe on a
seperate switch for night/cloud operation. I am
also fitting Bob Haan wig wag unit
>
> Cheers and take care,
> Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Air Force Data Plates |
--- Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> Just wanted to let folks know that the Vans Air Force data plates are
> now
> available from Van's. These are very nice stainless steel plates.
> See a
> picture at http://www.edt.com/homewing/emblem.html.
I'm always telling folks there are no dumb questions - but this sounds
particularly lame and is prompted by my work on the stainless firewall:
Will I have trouble finding engraving shops who will be able to /
willing to engrave stainless? Seems would be hard on their tools.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (canoe stage as of yesterday)
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: need ant for microair 760 |
--- SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> > Can anyone suggest a good, cheap, low profile antenna for the
> microair
> radio.
> > Carey Mills
> Remember that there are many no-drag concealed antenna options
> available to us, both as canopy and as wingtip mounted designs.
Yes! Yes! That's what I'm looking for - and using a Microair 760,
coincidently.
Anyone remember the heady days of Citizen Band? Ever see a car with a
stainless steel whip going down the highway - that whip layed back at
only 60 MPH until the upper third was almost parallel to the ground...
That's why I always used fiberglass whips - and why I'm looking for the
best internal comm antenna.
Wingtips sound the best so far...
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (canoe stage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: first wing rib positon measurment (6) |
--- Bobpaulo(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> am i correct that i measure from the TOP inboard of the spar to get
> the 22.5 inch first rib position?
If you will check plan sheet 13, top right, you will see that the zero
datum for rib measurement is from the base of the spar - _before_ it
had the dihedral cut into it (at the factory).
Therefore you must measure from the bottom edge of the spar to get your
distances.
Of course, once the root rib is placed, double-check all other
positions with the wing skins, as the pre-punched holes have priority
over measuring!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (canoe stage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
| Subject: | Re: pushrod rivets, etc. |
I had mine welded. It took the welder less than 5 minutes to do both. I used
a
small syringe to squirt about 1cc of "tube oil" into the pushrod prior to
welding the second fitting to the tube. I hope that this will discourage any
internal corrosion.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Arlington, MA
Installing radios!
"Robert Dickson" on 09/10/2000 09:30:52 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Robert Dickson"
To: rv list
cc: (bcc: Dean Pichon/ADLittle)
Subject: RV-List: pushrod rivets, etc.
I'm trying to rivet the rod ends to the smal pushrods that connect the
bellcrank to the aileron (-6A). The only way I can manage to not bend the
rivet over is to make it way too short, leaving an inadequate shop head.
When the rivet is the proper length it bends right over regardless of how
careful I am. I read a thread on this subject a while back, but can't seem
to pull it up in the archive. Someone said they used a small cupped set on
the shop head side, but that doesn't work for me. I'm pretty much ready to
just get more parts and take them to my local machine shop for welding, but
I thought I'd ask for your experiences first.
I've got another question. I want to run some of Van's flexible conduit
through the wings and am pondering how to drill (enlarge) the holes through
the ribs under the already riveted skins. George O mentions making an
extender for the unibit, but if ain't made out of aluminum I'm not sure I'm
up to it! Just curious as to how some of you folks might have accomplished
this.
Thanks!
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC, RV-6AQB, left wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 oil cooler change results |
>Listers,
>
>I finally changed out my firewall mounted Positech cooler for a Niagara,
>7
>row cooler placed on the rear baffle behind cylinder #4.
>
>Success!
>
>The Positech just wasn't cooling the oil at all. Once the temp got up to
>220
>degrees, it would stay there...heat soaked and would not come down until
>the
>power came back and the nose went down. Even then, it would take several
>minutes.
>
>
>In summary: Positech coolers suck. Oops, maybe that's too harsh. Uh they
>simply are NOT suited for use in aircraft. Yes, they are very nicely
>made
>and robust. However, they just don't do the job unless you use an
>oversize
>model and place it where it gets full ram intake air....with no ducting
>to
>impede airflow. Forget about using the firewall mounting and 3" scat
>hose.
>I've been roasting my oil like this since first flight. Egads.
>
>So there you have it. My less than scientific oil cooler testing results.
>
>Take it for what it's worth. Anyone want a used Positech? Would make a
>nice
>desk ornament.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>cruisin' cool
>
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>-
>Brian (said with a big long sigh)
>
>This is not meant as a flame towards you in any way but I just wanted to
>once again remind everyone how much of an error it can be in assuming
>this kind of information is useful or should be considered to be relevant
>for their particular airplane.
>
>You made more than one change. My guess is that the change in location
>had the most effect on your oil temps.
>You didn't provide any info on what your remote cooler installation was
>like. They rarely allow for direct straight runs of scat hose from the
>air source to the cooler. If you look inside of some scat hose and then
>put a bend in it you can see the effect (major) that it can have on the
>air flow.
>Put a couple of 90 deg. bends in it and the effect can be significant
>(though I don't know if that was a factor in your case).
>
>I have been preaching on this list for 3 years now to mount you cooler on
>the rear baffle "If" you will be doing lots of flying in an environment
>where cooling might be an issue (meaning "HOT"). If you live/fly mostly
>in a cooler climate then it doesn't matter much.
>
>A useful report would be if you reinstalled the positech cooler in the
>same location as the niagra and then get a comparison while flying the
>same types of flights (and conditions) that you described.
>
>I am not making this post to defend the positech coolers. There is
>evidence that they cool a little less efficiently than some of the
>others, but I believe other factors have a bigger effect on the oil temp
>(type of installation, quality of work done on baffle installation,
>condition of the engine, etc.).
>
>I am running one on the new RV-9A as test and I plan to see how it does
>at Copperstate In PHX in about 5 weeks. So far it has been doing
>fine...we will see.
>
>The bottom line point I wish to make (again) is that you need to fully
>consider all of the issues when presenting information to other on the
>list, and anyone on the list needs to accept informations
>value/applicability with the same level of thinking.
>
>Once again... No flame intended.
>Brian is a great guy who has spent a lot of time participating/helping on
>the RV list.
>He even bought me lunch once during a fuel stop on my way to the Abilene
>TX fly-in.
>Thanks again Brain, see you at Copperstate.
>
>
>Scott McDaniels
>North Plains, OR
>These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
>reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
Scott,
(not said with a sigh, cuz' it won't sound very cool being a one syllable
name. :)
As always, your input is greatly valued here. What I failed to mention in
my first post...I think, is that a baffle mounted Positech even on a
smaller, O-320 engine in an RV-6A would not cool at all. It went to redline
after two circuits around the pattern. This environment is killer on
engines...high and hot. I know full well that an apples to apples
comparison would require simply placing the Niagara in the existing firewall
mounted location with neatly routed 3" scat duct. This entire project was a
lot of work, requiring removal of the front baggage hold floors, hoses,
clamps, pipe fittings, baffles, etc. The Positech is a very heavy unit when
full of oil. I did not want to hang it on the baffle. The Niagara is
lighter. I know the scat hose attenuates airflow. I'm in the HVAC business
so I have ample experience here. So, on the baffle it went. Nuff said.
So, I say again that a Positech will most likely be incapable of performing
it's intended task here IN THIS ENVIRONMENT. Perhaps I should have added
that clarifier initially. It did not work for me, it did not work for Pat
Kirkpatrick, as mentioned in the RV-6A case above, who had to hook up
another Positech....a MUCH larger one, in series with the first one ON THE
BAFFLE to get oil temp down. That's all the data I personally need.
I'll hang it all out now (hide the kids) and add that I think Van's should
continue to offer the Positech cooler with a statement in the catalog that
it is not as efficient in most applications and heavier. Then, the buyer,
will be better informed to make an educated decision.
Great to see ya on the list again, Scott. Stop by AEG anytime for free
eats. We can use the Positech as a coffee warmer. HAH! OK, I'll shut up
now.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
chillin' wid da Niagara, baby.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Torque Settings for AN818 |
I have been looking for the torque settings for the AN818 "3D and 4D" nuts
used on hose fittings. So far, I have been looking in the wrong places.
Pointer for this information would be much appreciated.
Tom Diede
RV-8 finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Galls wig/wag flasher . . . |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
Loss of redundancy and courtesy to other aircraft who may be taxiing near
you. Taxi lights are supposed to be angled so that they illuminate the
ground while in the taxi configuration. Landing lights illuminate the
ground in the landing configuration. A landing light on the ground will
tend to shine right into the eyes of a pilot taxiing nearby. However, I
think I can count the times on one hand that I've ever had to taxi past
another airplane at night.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III
[mailto:nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 12:17 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Norman Hunger
Subject: Re: RV-List: Galls wig/wag flasher . . .
Bob sez:
>> I was disappointed to find that the flasher ties the two
lamp circuits
>> together when it's de-energized . . . no big deal on
police cars where
>> headlights are normally operated together . . . but a bit
of a challange
>> when you'd like to have independent landing and taxi
light circuits.
Norm answers:
>I don't see any need to have independent landing and taxi
light circuits. I
>will be happy with both of them on one switch. Less
complexity, cost, panel
>space, and weight. Simplifies night operations by removing
the decision of
>which light to have on at what phase of flight/taxi and the
checklist item
>each time to confirm it. This will also keep my aircraft
close to what I am
>most familliar with operating at night; cars. I have never
had the urge to
>turn one headlight out. If the engine is running then I say
light em up!
The downside I see for this is loss of potential
redundancy. The single
supply, single switch or common controls does expand
possiblity for single
failure to take out both lights.
>Thank-you for proving that the Galls Flasher is possibly
the one for me. The
>only thing that concerns me is the post that mentioned that
they are heavy.
>How heavy? Can any one offer weight comparisons with other
brands such as
Why not option 3? Less expensive than Galls, MUCH
lighter, relay is
NOT potted into the assembly and therefore easily
replaced.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 oil cooler change results |
>
>One thing to remember is that you don't need a whole lot of clearance with
>something mounted this close to the engine mount. It won't move much.
>I've
>got about 1/4" inch minimum on mine, but have seen several with less
>clearance. In fact, in the RV-8 that was at the Skybolt tent at SNF, I
>think
>the cooler touched the engine mount. I wouldn't be happy about that, but
>what do I know...
>
>
>Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
Yes, it does ride pretty close to the engine mount tube. I bent the cooler
flange back a bit to clear the tube (it's very soft aluminum) and watched it
closely when I ran the engine to check for leaks. It only moves up and down
a bit as the engine rocks about the longitudinal centerline and does not
move closer to the tube. As long as your engine mount rubbers aren't totally
worn out, the cooler should never touch the mount.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Front spar...) |
Hola,
On Sun, 10 Sep 2000, gert wrote:
>
> Longeron yoke, made for those situations, 'bout best piece of riveting
> steel I have. Just wish it was the first yoke I obtained!!
That reminds me... I have a longeron yoke for my Avery squeezer, and in
just a few months of building have clobbered two sets of the
collar/threaded insert (the part that translates force from the handles to
the dimple die/rivet set). In the first case, the collar bent or swelled;
in the second case, the threaded insert bent. I am now using the good
insert with the good collar, but it too is starting to get pretty tight
(difficult to turn by hand).
I also have a no-hole yoke, and it seems to me that it needs less force to
squeeze rivets (and while useless for dimpling, is _quite_ useful for
squeezing).
So now I'm suspicious of the longeron yoke, and won't use it on -4 rivets
at all. Am I crazy? Well, don't answer that -- what I mean to say is,
are my incredibly bulging muscles (combined with a dashingly handsome
face and massive, voluptuous thighs, I might add. And ears. Two of
them.) too much for the squeezer? Has anyone else had a similar
experience with the longeron (or any other) yoke?
Finally, regarding Brian's original post, to attach the tip ribs I
suggest bending the ribs a little to fit the rivet gun in, checking the
rivet length carefully, and then driving them slowly -- hit it a few
times, check progress, hit it a few more times, etc. Sounds like you need
some -5 rivets too. And finally, when removing rivets, I strongly
recommend using a pair of vice grips after popping off the head, instead
of punching out the shank/shop head with a hammer. A few gentle twists
will remove it.
-S
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Figure 10-10? Drawing 62 |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
No! I didn't get that sttuff either. If you go way back to the prewiew
set, different kpage #'s but it shows what we are trying to do. Like
everything else it a catch 22. Basically we hag the bent piece on 2 bolts
at the engine mount & the aft on the firewall. the othere pcs you will
figure out. Now use your cowling for the height, I had to rebend. I had
to re order more pins . the lower pins cross each other & lock in with
drilled holes in the plates.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> Good Evening,
>
> I am finishing (HA!) my RV-6A S-cowl. The manual and drawing 61
> shows a
> complicated bracket that I guess I have to make to hold the aft part
> of the
> lower cowl in place. The manual refers me to figure 10-10 and
> Drawing 62
> for more details on how the whole thing goes together.
>
> Problem is, I never got Drawing 62 and the manual has no figures for
> part
> 10. I am I missing something?
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynafocal 1 or Dynafocal 2??? |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
The D3G is a dyno I. The II's fit most of the 0-360's I think. the
differance is the angle to the center of engine. the D means 160 hp with
dynofocal I. the 3G was for the Warrior & has an unmachined prop gov pad.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
writes:
>
> I have the oportunity to buy a used O-320 D3G. Vans
> manual states that the "D" means dynafocal, but how do
> I know if its a "dynafocal 1" or "dynafocal 2"?
>
> I have a dynafocal 1 engine mount fixed on my 6A. Will
> this engine work?
>
> Dan DeNeal
> Working on the fiberglass :
(
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"'RV-List Digest Server'"
| Subject: | HR4205 - delete now if you're apathetic about your freedoms |
Thomas McIntyre
Warbirds...................... Acident waiting to Happen?
Nuff said.
Tom
****************************************************************************
*****************************************************************
Pure garbage, Tom. Nothing is safe. You'll even die from sitting in your
recliner! I want to go out like Steve Wittman... a very old man free to do
what he loved! (Absolutely no disrespect intended).
HR4205 is just another in the endless series of bills which are slowly, but
surely, eroding our freedoms. This one stinks every bit as much as the
proposed gun controls, gov't interference in industry (mandatory trigger
lock deals, Microsoft lawsuit, tobacco lawsuit,etc.....) and others. Even
if you think some of these are good ideas you must remember that once a
precedent is set and a freedom is forfeited, IT WILL NEVER RETURN! Everyone
should resist this type of BS by writing their Congressman and Senators as
much as possible. Make yourself known. I do.
Don't forget the coming elections! Are you registered? You ARE going to
vote, aren't you? Are you doing anything to promote your favorite
candidates??? How interesting is it that Chinese students (and others) will
protest and die for democracy (Tianamen Square) while many Americans brush
off the right to vote like it was an annoying bug. Morons! They don't
deserve to live here.
If you haven't written to your Congressman yet.... what are you waiting
for???? The next "dangerous" activity targeted might be YOUR favorite
activity. Whether that activity is smoking, shooting, hunting,
motorcycling, flying, or drinking beer won't matter if nobody speaks up!
Yes, I am unashamedly pro-business, and pro individual freedoms. I don't
want the gov't "helping" me! Freedom made this country great, only freedom
will keep it great.
What has this got to do with RV building? Everything! Certainly it is more
important for the long range viability of your airplane project than what
primer you use!!! BTW, yes, I was holding back when I wrote this... talk
to me in person sometime.
"Freedom is not for weak-stomached, uneducated crybabies. They prefer
spoon-fed socialism. Freedom is for the strong of will, the brave, the
informed. " Me.
Flame away.... I thrive on the heat!
Vince Frazier in Indiana
Harmon Rocket II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Settings for AN818 |
>
>I have been looking for the torque settings for the AN818 "3D and 4D" nuts
>used on hose fittings. So far, I have been looking in the wrong places.
>Pointer for this information would be much appreciated.
>
>Tom Diede
>RV-8 finishing kit
AC 43.13-1B, section 9-30 has torque values for AN818 nuts for tubing
(not hoses). For aluminum tubing, they give 25-35 lb-in for -3, and
50-65 lb-in for -4.
The section on hoses follows the section on tubing. They don't give
any guidance on torques in the hoses section, so I would use the
values for tubing unless someone has a better idea.
AC 43.13-1B is available on the web at <http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ac43/>.
AC 43.13-1B is also available from the FAA web site at
<http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/300/pdf/1a-cover.pdf>. Once you reach the
cover of AC 43.13-1B, click in the blue box which will take you to
the first page of the AC. To continue, click in the blue box of the
first page. This will take you to the contents. Continue by clicking
on the black boxes containing the titles the sections within the
chapters.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
clip
>
>* How much difference does 20 HP really make; O320 160HP vs. O360 180HP...
>* What about the same engines with Senenich AL FP prop vs. CS prop?
>* The field elevation here is near 7000' so climb performance is top
>priority, but I don't want to give up cruise either...
>* What about formation flying, CS prop vs. FP prop?
>
Bill,
If climb performance is top priority but you don't want to give up
cruise, I don't think there really is a choice. O-360 with constant
speed. That is the only combination that gives you what you want.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying and happy with my Sensenich 72FM8
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
> * How much difference does 20 HP really make; O320 160HP vs. O360
> 180HP...
_Most_ of the difference is in rate of climb and take off distance -
unless you take advantage of the extra 20HP and increase the pitch of
the prop to yield a higher airspeed.
Then the take off distance and rate of climb should remain the same
between engines, but cruise of the O-360 will increase as it reaches
rated HP.
> * What about the same engines with Senenich AL FP prop vs. CS prop?
All props are compromises - even constant speed. As always, you have
to define the mission and select accordingly. FP can be pitched to
give good climb and good speed, or great climb (and real short take
offs) and fair speed (still good), or fair take offs and climb but
great speeds.
At 7K elevation, you're likely to prefer a FP in the middle or on the
climb side so you can get closer to rated HP on takeoffs.
A constant speed setup can be tuned by the helix of the individual
blades. Again, at your altitude you would probably want a setup tuned
via helix towards the climb side... but when you travel and descend
towards sea level you will find the engine easy to overspeed.
Hard to do an apples-to-apples comparison.
> * The field elevation here is near 7000' so climb performance is top
> priority, but I don't want to give up cruise either...
As good as the climb of these aircraft is, you should be able to get a
good compromise using Van's pitch chart and maybe decreasing the pitch
by an inch.. No short, high fields, though!
Maybe some listers who have flown into your area can report their
subjective observations regarding how their engine/prop combo worked
for them on take off.
You will be able to get a better idea what difference changing the
pitch of a FP prop does when Laird gets a chance to report on the test
of his bird with an 85" over his 83" (on an O-360). O-320 differences
should be similar (in a different pitch range, of course).
> * What about formation flying, CS prop vs. FP prop?
The difficulties of formation flying with a constant speed prop have
more to do with dealing with the vernier prop control than the fact
that it is constant speed. Gets tiring holding your thumb on that
release button!
You didn't ask about aerobatics - but there is a difference here as
well. Of course most serious acro birds use constant speed to get the
climb power they need, but in the RV series and doing "gentleman acro"
It seems that a FP bird is much smoother and easier in the figures.
Again, I'm referring to a comparison between FP and constant speed
acro.
All, of course, IMO - and YMMV.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
"Builder's Bookstore"
> * How much difference does 20 HP really make; O320 160HP vs. O360 180HP...
> > Thanks in advance...
> >
> > Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> > RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
Those extra 20 horses makes a big difference, especially in climb and noticeably
in speed too. My 6A with an 0-360 and wood prop gets 1500' fpm out of my 8500'
strip when solo (typically around 10,000 density altitude). With full fuel and
another 200 pounder next to me, I still get 8-900 fpm. Vmax at 10,000 is about
207.
In comparison, another 0-320 powered 6 on the field flies like an old Cessna.
Last time we flew together he took off about 2 minutes ahead of me. By the time
we were 5 miles out I was passing him and almost 1000 feet above him.
The little bit of money that a 0-320 saves you doesn't come close to the
performance you'll lose. Guaranteed, by the time you've got 10 hours on the
plane, you'll be wishing you had the 0-360, especially up here in the mountains.
Andy
Winter Park
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
-- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> With all the talk lately about engines and props I
> came up with a couple
> questions... I have been looking through the
> archives for about 2 hours
> now, but haven't found what I am looking for...
>
> I am constantly losing sleep over engine prop
> choices, and want to get some
> opinions from the list...
>
> * How much difference does 20 HP really make; O320
> 160HP vs. O360 180HP...
> * What about the same engines with Senenich AL FP
> prop vs. CS prop?
> * The field elevation here is near 7000' so climb
> performance is top
> priority, but I don't want to give up cruise
> either...
> * What about formation flying, CS prop vs. FP prop?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Wings
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
The 180 CS will almost aways outpreform all the other
combinations. Check out race results. Tracy Saylor
is the fastest RV-6 and Dave Anders the fastest RV-4.
Speed race results for my 160 CS RV-6 can be found at:
http://www.eracer.org/RACE/mesquite1199.html speeds
are in MPH.
http://www.copperstate.org/Winners/Speed_Dash.htm
Speeds are in knots. My 160 was faster than one of
the 180s and all the fixed pitch 160s RV-6s. Yes the
RV-3 fixed pitch is faster but this is no suprise.
Depending on airspeeds, the constant speed 160 will
outclimb the 180 fixed pitch. An example is this
summer out of Jackson Hole WY. Density alitude was
reported to be 9,200 by the tower. I outclimbed an
RV-6A 180 HP 83" Sensenich (spelling). Airspeed was
80 KIAS. At higher airspeeds, the fixed pitch would
climb as well and did have a higher top speed due to
more horsepower. My 160 CS can get 2,200 FPM ROC
(light weight) [1,800 FPM @ 1,500 lbs] and the 180 CA
gets about 2,400 FPM ROC. Check Van's performace
specs. http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-6per.htm
I can match or exceed all their putlished perfomance
numbers that I have tried to verify. Do not have
numbers for the fixed pitch but it is less as the
engine is not turning max RPM thus not creating max
thrust.
The horsepower that an engine produces is a function
of RPM and manifold pressure. The consant speed prop
will always be able to obtain max RPM and max maifold
pressure. If the effiecncy of the prop is the same,
the CS will have max thrust. The new Fixed pitch
props are a more modern design and thus are more
efficient. At one airspeed, they will out perform the
CS. The CS will outperform at all the other
airspeeds. This is an over simplify but helps explain
the difference.
My RV-6 160 CS flying against an RV-6A with 160
Senisenich both with digital tachs will turn 40 RPM
more at 2,500 RPM and the same manifold pressure. I
always outclimb and have a higher top speed.
There is a brakeing effect with the constant speed
prop that does not exist with the fixed pitch. If you
have a good formaiton lead, the brake does not mater.
If you keep shooting past the lead with the fixed
pitch, you lead is not the most experienced pilot in
the group.
Hope this helps and I covered most of your questions.
I am one of those that want the extra performace of
the constant speed and am willing to pay for it. I
typically fly full throttle and pull the prop back to
a lower RPM to get better fuel economy. Full throttle
at 7,500 is 23" MP and 2300 RPM giving a 160 KTAS and
7 GPH.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
650+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
"I never knew what real happiness was until I got married; and then it was too
late..." - Jack Handey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
Wow, what a loaded question. Just like asking 1000 people what kind of
car you should buy.
>
> I am constantly losing sleep over engine prop choices, and want to get some
> opinions from the list...
>
> * How much difference does 20 HP really make; O320 160HP vs. O360 180HP...
Climb performance is where you really see the extra 20 horses.
> * What about the same engines with Sesenich AL FP prop vs. CS prop?
I have the 72FM prop and am happy with both cruise and climb
performance. On takeoff I dont' get the rocket like push into the seat
like the CS prop and I take more runway to take off. The CS prop will
win the time to climb every time from a standing stop. Once flying
climbs at 110-120 mph are about the same for the CS and MY FP prop.
> * The field elevation here is near 7000' so climb performance is top
> priority, but I don't want to give up cruise either...
8500' DA days are the summertime norm here at FTG and I have never had a
problem with climb performance. Having said that, if you want the best
of both worlds then spend the bucks and go with the 180 hp and CS prop.
Sensenich did there homework when they designed the 72FM. The blades are
designed for RV cruise speeds and I think with the proper pitch there
would be no problem in out running a CS ship in a flat out race.
>
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: A&P certificate
Thread-Index: AcAcI+KG2v+niiQ0T1Sp6OlCYeE9Kg=
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Listers,
I just received the blessing from the local FSDO that I have enough
experience to take the tests for an A&P certificate. My question for
you A&P's out there who got their certificates through practical
experience, what is the best way to train for the oral and practical
exams? I'm not sweating the writtens, but if I have to work on a jet
engine during the practical then I'm sure I won't do very well on the
test.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 33 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Judd <sjudd(at)ffd2.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
Hola Larry, all,
On Mon, 11 Sep 2000, Larry Pardue wrote:
> >* How much difference does 20 HP really make; O320 160HP vs. O360 180HP...
> >* What about the same engines with Senenich AL FP prop vs. CS prop?
> >* The field elevation here is near 7000' so climb performance is top
> >priority, but I don't want to give up cruise either...
>
> If climb performance is top priority but you don't want to give up
> cruise, I don't think there really is a choice. O-360 with constant
> speed. That is the only combination that gives you what you want.
While I certainly agree with the above statement, I think it's helpful to
put climb rates into perspective. When you flew up to Santa Fe we were
climbing at, what, around 1600 fpm? I think 700 fpm is the best I've done
in a 172, and often it's around 400-500 fpm.
I suggest that pretty much any RV, with any engine/prop combo, is going
to climb faster than probably 90% of the planes at any given airport.
So while an IO360+CS will certainly give the best possible climb
performance, I suspect that any combo will get very respectable -- and
most importantly safe -- performance. For myself, while I would prefer an
O360+FP, I suspect that my choice will be determined by what engine is
available at the time (and how much money I have).
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mferrell(at)pstindy.org |
| Subject: | RV4, it is nice to get something that works |
These Interior Flap Arm covers locate on both sides of the rear seat
inside the RV-4 and Harmon Rocket. They protect against object
interference of normal flap function. The Flap Arm Cover Kit comes
with approximate trim lines marked and rubber edge trim. Just trim
and mount.
"Got my covers this morning and now have them trimmed. The fit is
excellent
and not much problem to install. Just to let you know
it is nice to get something that works!"
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
For pictures of a mounted set or ordering information contact Matt
Ferrell at 317 834-2395 or mferrell(at)pstindy.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Sender: owner-rv-list-server |
does anybody have any experience with Brown Aviation Tool supply's
PNEUMATIC RIVET SQUEEZER model # 3000-A-1-1/2. It is the alligator style
riveter.
Is it strong enough for -4 rivets?
Is it durable?
Is it easy to use?
How do the rivets come out?
Does it work well with the 3 inch jaws?
thanks,
Scot
F1 Rocket #19 Cockpit top side rails
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS Front spar...) |
In a message dated 9/11/00 9:03:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time, sjudd(at)ffd2.com
writes:
<< Has anyone else had a similar experience with the longeron (or any other)
yoke? >>
I had a general problem similiar to your in that mine got progressively
harder to turn until eventually it sheared where the threaded shaft goes into
the yoke. I sent it to Avery and they sent me a new set. Since then I have
paid much more attention to keeping the threads lubricated with the grease
that Avery supplies with the squeezer and it continues to be easy to turn by
hand. I suggest relubing the threaded shaft each time you change squeezer
yokes. I also agree that the longeron yoke is a necessary investment.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
09/11/2000 04:45:16 PM
Range is a factor too. The 180 hp expects more fuel then the 160 hp. We
only carry a limited fuel quanitity so range can be a factor here. Weight
for a 180 with a cs prop AND a prop govenor will be more dollars & cut
into the range. A lighter 160 hp (with 170 hp pistons) with a fp prop may
yield the performance you want.
Mike Thompson (at)matronics.com on 09/11/2000 02:13:38
PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Mike Thompson
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engines & Props...
> * How much difference does 20 HP really make; O320 160HP vs. O360
> 180HP...
_Most_ of the difference is in rate of climb and take off distance -
unless you take advantage of the extra 20HP and increase the pitch of
the prop to yield a higher airspeed.
Then the take off distance and rate of climb should remain the same
between engines, but cruise of the O-360 will increase as it reaches
rated HP.
> * What about the same engines with Senenich AL FP prop vs. CS prop?
All props are compromises - even constant speed. As always, you have
to define the mission and select accordingly. FP can be pitched to
give good climb and good speed, or great climb (and real short take
offs) and fair speed (still good), or fair take offs and climb but
great speeds.
At 7K elevation, you're likely to prefer a FP in the middle or on the
climb side so you can get closer to rated HP on takeoffs.
A constant speed setup can be tuned by the helix of the individual
blades. Again, at your altitude you would probably want a setup tuned
via helix towards the climb side... but when you travel and descend
towards sea level you will find the engine easy to overspeed.
Hard to do an apples-to-apples comparison.
> * The field elevation here is near 7000' so climb performance is top
> priority, but I don't want to give up cruise either...
As good as the climb of these aircraft is, you should be able to get a
good compromise using Van's pitch chart and maybe decreasing the pitch
by an inch.. No short, high fields, though!
Maybe some listers who have flown into your area can report their
subjective observations regarding how their engine/prop combo worked
for them on take off.
You will be able to get a better idea what difference changing the
pitch of a FP prop does when Laird gets a chance to report on the test
of his bird with an 85" over his 83" (on an O-360). O-320 differences
should be similar (in a different pitch range, of course).
> * What about formation flying, CS prop vs. FP prop?
The difficulties of formation flying with a constant speed prop have
more to do with dealing with the vernier prop control than the fact
that it is constant speed. Gets tiring holding your thumb on that
release button!
You didn't ask about aerobatics - but there is a difference here as
well. Of course most serious acro birds use constant speed to get the
climb power they need, but in the RV series and doing "gentleman acro"
It seems that a FP bird is much smoother and easier in the figures.
Again, I'm referring to a comparison between FP and constant speed
acro.
All, of course, IMO - and YMMV.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
I am posting this info for a friend of my who has for sale a IO-360. It is
apart for insp.and overhaul.It has a new Rick Roman crank. For more details
please call him direct. He is in the Indianapolis aera. Steve @
317-506-0854 He is asking $8750.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bjc <bjc(at)btconnect.com> |
In reference to the mailings about the MicroAir 760 and other lower power
transceivers, listers may be interested in the following:
We have power restrictions in our public service radio systems in England
,(taxi, service companies etc.) some years ago we conducted range tests with
VHF AM high band land based radios on 170Mhz. (close to air frequencies).
Without telling the mobile receiving station we adjusted the RF power out
from 0.05 to 40 watts from our base station, the bottom line was there was
no apparent difference in communication from 0.1 watts and up.
The most important item in any radio link is the antenna system and its
height or altitude above ground assuming all other items equal.
So in the case of aircraft radio transceivers you will see very little
difference in range with pa output powers of 1w to 100w.
Barry Clifford
Radio engineer, ENGLAND
RV6A wings
www.rv6.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Air Force Data Plates |
> > Just wanted to let folks know that the Vans Air Force data plates are
> > now available from Van's. These are very nice stainless steel plates.
> > See a picture at http://www.edt.com/homewing/emblem.html.
>
> I'm always telling folks there are no dumb questions - but this sounds
> particularly lame and is prompted by my work on the stainless firewall:
>
> Will I have trouble finding engraving shops who will be able to /
> willing to engrave stainless? Seems would be hard on their tools.
My experience is that it isn't a big deal, although they may not be able to
go as deep with the stainless as with other metals. Best bet is to call
whoever you're thinking of using and ask them.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
>
>Regarding cruise speeds, power required increases with the CUBE of the
>speed. So the bottom line is that the extra 20hp (12.5%) should
>theoretically yield a 4% increase in speed.
>
>Alternatively, a 4% increase in speed requires a 12.5% increase in
>power.
>
>If you look at the speeds in the Van's web site you'll see this
>relationship borne out. Perhaps they calculated speeds for various HP
>based on one set of numbers for one engine?
>
>http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-6per.htm
>
>Take-off distances and climb rates are more directly related than speed,
>but I can't remember if they're a direct or a squared relationship.
>Bottom line is that the effect of more or less power is more dramatic on
>climb and takeoff performance than on cruise.
>
>Chris
>
>
Climb rate is much more directly affected by the available power than
is cruise speed. At a given speed, it takes a certain amount of
power to maintain level flight. Any excess power (the difference
between power produced, and the power required to maintain level
flight) can be used to climb. The climb rate is directly
proportional to the amount of excess power.
Note that not all the power produced by the engine is turned into
thrust. The thrust horsepower is equal to the shaft horsepower times
the prop efficiency. A good prop should have an efficiency of about
0.8 (80%), but some props are definitely more efficient than others.
The Sensenich metal FP prop may have very slightly better efficiency
than the CS, and both are a lot better than most wood FP props.
Let's look at two different engine/prop combinations. The power
available from engine # 1 is hp1, and the prop efficiency is eff1.
Engine # 2 has hp2 and eff2. The difference in rate of climb
(ft/min) = (33,000 x weight) x ((hp1 x eff1) - (hp2 x eff2)).If our
aircraft weighs 1600 lb, and engine 1 has 180 hp, and engine 2 has
160 hp, the difference in rate of climb would be = (33,000 x 1600) x
((180 x 0.8) - (160 x 0.8)) = 330 ft/min. I've assumed 80% prop
efficiency in both cases.
Note: this case assumes sea level, standard day, at max rpm. That is
the only time you will get the full rated power. If we are at higher
altitude each engine will put out less power, and the difference in
rate of climb will be less than 330 ft/min. Now, if one of the props
is fixed pitch, then that engine will probably be running at lower
rpm, which means less power is available. You can play around with
the O-360 engine power spreadsheet on my web site to get a feel for
how power available varies with altitude, temperature and rpm.
Take off distance - assuming the same take-off speed and weight (not
totally correct because the aircraft with the lighter engine and prop
will have a lower take-off speed), the take-off distance will vary
inversely with the power produced x prop efficiency (i.e. twice as
much power gives half the take-off distance). The constant speed
prop has a big advantage here, because it allows the engine to
produce more power, and it is more efficient than the fixed pitch
prop at low speed. A fixed pitch prop coarse enough for RV cruise
speeds will be partially stalled during the take-off, thus it will be
operating at low efficiency.
OK - enought typing. Time to go back to the shop,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Another RV-8A website |
Here is my first shot at e-publishing.
http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/index.html
Sorry all I have to show for now is my panel pages but more are on the way.
Enjoy...
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 Sensenich (85)
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
What's been the experience with Sherwin Williams Sunfire paint? The shop I'm
looking at to paint my GIII (if it ever gets done ;)) is pushing this paint
system.
Bruce
Glasair III
Hanging engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Reece" <ReeceRV3(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 wing incidence/twist |
Finn-
How's the fix going?
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 1:50 PM
Subject: RV3-List: RV-3 wing incidence/twist
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>
> Again, thanks for all replies so far!
>
> At this point I'm pretty much determined to change the right wing
incidence by
> redrilling the rear spar attachment hole (in spar). I believe I've found
the
> solution to maintain required strength there.
>
> (To recap: left wing twists down 1 degree from root to tip and right wing
twists
> up 1 degree or more from root to tip.)
>
> But I'm no longer sure that setting the *midpoint* of the right wing to
the
> specified 1 degrees positive incidence is the way to go.
>
> Please give the pro's and con's to this solution:
>
> Set outboard edge of the right wing to the specified 1 degree positive
incidence.
> Then compensate for the resulting 0 degree incidence at the root by
lowering the
> flap so that cord from wing leading edge to flap trailing edge is 1 degree
> positive. Will this work?
>
> I'll then trim out any remaining roll tendency by squeezing/bumping
ailerons
> (adding trim tabs if needed).
>
> I feel I will only have this one shot at re-drilling the right rear spar
> attachment hole, so I want to get it as close to optimum as possible.
>
> Finn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | New Autopilot Manufacturer |
A prospective RV-8 builder refered me to this link:
www.trutrakflightsystems.com
It looks interesting.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
Wings (still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props...Correction |
>
>>
>>Regarding cruise speeds, power required increases with the CUBE of the
>>speed. So the bottom line is that the extra 20hp (12.5%) should
>>theoretically yield a 4% increase in speed.
>>
>>Alternatively, a 4% increase in speed requires a 12.5% increase in
>>power.
>>
>>If you look at the speeds in the Van's web site you'll see this
>>relationship borne out. Perhaps they calculated speeds for various HP
>>based on one set of numbers for one engine?
>>
>>http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-6per.htm
>>
>>Take-off distances and climb rates are more directly related than speed,
>>but I can't remember if they're a direct or a squared relationship.
>>Bottom line is that the effect of more or less power is more dramatic on
>>climb and takeoff performance than on cruise.
>>
>>Chris
>>
>>
>
>Climb rate is much more directly affected by the available power than
>is cruise speed. At a given speed, it takes a certain amount of
>power to maintain level flight. Any excess power (the difference
>between power produced, and the power required to maintain level
>flight) can be used to climb. The climb rate is directly
>proportional to the amount of excess power.
>
>Note that not all the power produced by the engine is turned into
>thrust. The thrust horsepower is equal to the shaft horsepower times
>the prop efficiency. A good prop should have an efficiency of about
>0.8 (80%), but some props are definitely more efficient than others.
>The Sensenich metal FP prop may have very slightly better efficiency
>than the CS, and both are a lot better than most wood FP props.
>
>Let's look at two different engine/prop combinations. The power
>available from engine # 1 is hp1, and the prop efficiency is eff1.
>Engine # 2 has hp2 and eff2. The difference in rate of climb
>(ft/min) = (33,000 x weight) x ((hp1 x eff1) - (hp2 x eff2)).If our
>aircraft weighs 1600 lb, and engine 1 has 180 hp, and engine 2 has
>160 hp, the difference in rate of climb would be = (33,000 x 1600) x
>((180 x 0.8) - (160 x 0.8)) = 330 ft/min. I've assumed 80% prop
>efficiency in both cases.
>
>Note: this case assumes sea level, standard day, at max rpm. That is
>the only time you will get the full rated power. If we are at higher
>altitude each engine will put out less power, and the difference in
>rate of climb will be less than 330 ft/min. Now, if one of the props
>is fixed pitch, then that engine will probably be running at lower
>rpm, which means less power is available. You can play around with
>the O-360 engine power spreadsheet on my web site to get a feel for
>how power available varies with altitude, temperature and rpm.
>
>Take off distance - assuming the same take-off speed and weight (not
>totally correct because the aircraft with the lighter engine and prop
>will have a lower take-off speed), the take-off distance will vary
>inversely with the power produced x prop efficiency (i.e. twice as
>much power gives half the take-off distance). The constant speed
>prop has a big advantage here, because it allows the engine to
>produce more power, and it is more efficient than the fixed pitch
>prop at low speed. A fixed pitch prop coarse enough for RV cruise
>speeds will be partially stalled during the take-off, thus it will be
>operating at low efficiency.
>
>OK - enought typing. Time to go back to the shop,
>
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Wow, I really screwed up that formula when I copied it off from my
note pad. What I meant to say was:
Let's look at two different engine/prop combinations. The power
available from engine # 1 is hp1, and the prop efficiency is eff1.
Engine # 2 has hp2 and eff2. The difference in rate of climb
(ft/min) = (33,000/weight) x ((hp1 x eff1) - (hp2 x eff2)).If our
aircraft weighs 1600 lb, and engine 1 has 180 hp, and engine 2 has
160 hp, the difference in rate of climb would be = (33,000/1600) x
((180 x 0.8) - (160 x 0.8)) = 330 ft/min. I've assumed 80% prop
efficiency in both cases.
That'll teach me to rush the proof reading.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Gearleg Intersection Fairings |
I purchased the same fairings and fit them onto a 6A with Sam James wheel
pants. If you go this way, none of the fairings fit. I've come to believe
that any fiberglass piece is only a starting point for the finished product.
The Team Rocket intersection fairings were a reasonable starting point, just
as good as the tail feather fairing.
Brian Eckstein
6A finishing every day
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)AOL.COM |
Builders
PS engineering PM 1000 panel mount intercom, with manuals.
Radio Systems Technology Marker Beacon Model 521.
Terra TN200D Nav Receiver wth manual
Terra Tri-Nav C vor loc gs elc converter indicator with manual
Off line please
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Wultrad Turn Coordinator Question |
Hi,
I have my instrument panel temporarily hooked up to a 12V (Actually
11.88V) REGULATED DC power supply. The flag on my turn coordinator
doesn't seem to do anything whether the power is there or not. Is it
meant to do something when the alternator starts producing 14V?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engines & Props... |
Has anyone considered the difference in vibration between the O-320 and
O-360? From what I can gather the 360 has quite a bit more vibration due to
it's longer stroke (same bore) due to higher piston speeds and more energy
starting and stopping with each stroke. Seems like the 360s break FWF parts
at an increased rate from watching those already flying.
The guys at Van's say the yellow -8 (that is no longer with us) was their
pick... IO-320 c/s.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, cowling, O-360 already mounted
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's Air Force Data Plates |
>>My experience is that it isn't a big deal, although they may not be able
to
go as deep with the stainless as with other metals. Best bet is to call
whoever you're thinking of using and ask them.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)<<
Or you can buy yourself a set of steel letter/number punches at Harbor
Freight Tools for $7.99 and do it yourself.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-8A website |
Jim,
Great start to your website! Explaining why you did something a particular
is very helpful for us who are not at that point yet.
Good job!
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 5:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Another RV-8A website
>
>
> Here is my first shot at e-publishing.
>
> http://www.homestead.com/RV8A/files/index.html
>
> Sorry all I have to show for now is my panel pages but more are on the
way.
>
> Enjoy...
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A ( FWF )
> O-360 Sensenich (85)
> N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Barnes <skytop(at)corecomm.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
>
> Kurt,
**snip**.
> I spent two days making mine out of aluminum with male and female jigs
> and a press. I saw Sam Buchannan's on his web site and wish I had made
mine
> like his. It took him about 20 minutes and it looks very clean.
> Also you may consider attaching the fairings with proseal rather than
> rivits for a really clean look.
>
> Good luck,
> Tom Barnes -6 engine
>
***snip**
Tom,
I used Sam's method of making the cable fairings too and have to agree that
they are very simple to make and install.
If anyone is interested, here's how Sam built them.
<http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse8.html>
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dall" <rdall(at)clinipath.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Autopilot Manufacturer |
If anyone has had experience with this brand of Autopilot I would be
interested in hearing their thoughts.
I have a friend who is still trying to buy a Navaid....no luck for some
time...this may be a good alternative.
Richard Dall
RV-6
Perth,Western Australia
Starting Canopy (Gulp!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Johnson <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 7:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: New Autopilot Manufacturer
|
| A prospective RV-8 builder refered me to this link:
|
| www.trutrakflightsystems.com
|
|
| It looks interesting.
|
| Steve Johnson
| RV-8 #80121
| Wings (still)
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Installing vacuum pump |
I'm in the process of gyro-equipping my 6A, and I'm curious... Is it
physically possible to install a vacuum pump without one of those cute
little special-purpose wrenches? If so, (short of removing the oil filter
pad and right magneto) HOW?
I may be able to borrow one from the local mech, but thought I'd ask...
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wultrad Turn Coordinator Question |
Bring it up to 14v. You're tripping the low voltage sensor in the TC.
Normal system voltage should be around 13.8v when the alt is on line.
Bruce
Glasair III
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I have my instrument panel temporarily hooked up to a 12V (Actually
> 11.88V) REGULATED DC power supply. The flag on my turn coordinator
> doesn't seem to do anything whether the power is there or not. Is it
> meant to do something when the alternator starts producing 14V?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
Do you have trimm the flap a little to clear the pushrod for aileron for
movemont? did I miss something here?
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | 0320 Sump and straight risers |
Please if anyone can help...
I need a sump and straight risers for a 0320 A2A
I think it needs to be either an A2B or a E2D
My intake tubes on my A2A hit the Van's motor mount on my RV6
Thanks...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 - mounting engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Air Force Data Plates |
> Or you can buy yourself a set of steel letter/number punches at Harbor
> Freight Tools for $7.99 and do it yourself.
Award Specialties in Hillsboro OR (503-640-5160) charged me $8.60 to engrave
my data plate. This place is probably more reasonable than most -- since
they're about 4 miles from Van's old digs, they see a lot of these things
come through, so they're all set up to do RV data plates.
I have a set of those punches and I'm not sure if they would even work on
these plates. The stainless is thicker than your basic firewall material and
seems harder too. Even if it did work it would be more work for not as nice
of a job IMHO.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
> I'm in the process of gyro-equipping my 6A, and I'm curious... Is it
> physically possible to install a vacuum pump without one of those cute
> little special-purpose wrenches? If so, (short of removing the oil filter
> pad and right magneto) HOW?
I only had to remove the right mag, not the oil filter pad. Taking the mag
off is easy. But then you have to put it back on again. If this is your
first time doing that, here is how it might go:
First you have to figure out how to re-align the magneto gear with the
accessory gear when you re-install the mag. This involves aligning two holes
with a #40 drill bit and is easy to get wrong. Since there's no
documentation even with the $20,000 NEW engine OR the $35 engine overhaul
manual, you need to call Slick to get instructions. Okay so thats done, then
you need to re-time the mag. Since this is your first time you'll have to
get a magneto timing tool. Oh well, you'll need to get one eventually. That
done, perform your first engine start. Quickly shut it down since it runs
like sh*t. Re-check the timing and find that it's ok. So it must be the mag
gear alignment, even though it SEEMED right. Remove the mag again and watch
in horror as the top holddown nut flips into the crancase. Next, panic and
sweat and curse, then calm down and c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y fish the magneto
holddown nut out. Next slump to the floor and drink about 3 beers and thank
your lucky stars it didn't drop all the way down to the bottom and you don't
have to tear down the engine. Next, after sobering up, re-align the gear
again and bolt the magneto on, then re-time the engine.
The above is purely hypothetical. Didn't happen to me or anyone I know.
Really. Now excuse me while I go get another beer.
If I were you I'd beg, borrow or steal the tool.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~150 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props... |
I assume you are refering to the H2AD pistons. Has anyone actually tested an
engine with these pistons on a dynamometer (sp?) to test the HP? And does any
one have any ideas what this higher compression does to engine wear and TBO?
I ask because my engine choice (this week anyway) is an O320 from Bart, with
H2AD pistons, Ellison TB, lightspeed igntion, CS prop.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Range is a factor too. The 180 hp expects more fuel then the 160 hp. We
> only carry a limited fuel quanitity so range can be a factor here. Weight
> for a 180 with a cs prop AND a prop govenor will be more dollars & cut
> into the range. A lighter 160 hp (with 170 hp pistons) with a fp prop may
> yield the performance you want.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
<<< I noticed Kevin Ross's slick fiberglass
rudder cable fairings at OSH
> (and in the Second Issue 2000 RVator) and
thought about trying my hand an
> making my own. Im not so much interested in
speed increase (if any), but
> more with the looks. Sure looks better than
having the cables exposed.
> Before I go down this road.....does anyone
(George O, Bob at Fairings Etc,
> Kevin?) already have/or in the process of
developing such a product? I
> assume there would be a large market for such a
fairing>>>
Murphy Aircraft have a very nice fiberglass rudder
cable fairing. I think it's off the Rebel. Looks
great, better profile and is easy to fit on RV's.
Contact for Murphy mursales(at)murphyair.com
Cheers and take care,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com> |
Listers,
This morning I washed some aluminum ribs and spars in the bath tub.
they left black marks all over the tub and I can't seem to get them off
with anything.
Does anyone know of a specific product that works?
I tried all the household products and paint thinner, but the don't
work.
TIA
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Team Rocket vs. Vans Wingtips |
Hello Listers!
I have not been able to find anyone who has
experienced a direct comparison (i.e. removed one and
replaced with another) of these two makes of wingtips.
My Van's tips are in the garage ready for
installation and I hate to spend $500 to replace them
with something comparable. On the other hand, if the
Rocket' Sheared tips bring on an extra 5 knots, (and
they looked better IMHO) this purchase would be
justified. Guidance and wisdom please!
Rob Miller
RV8 80153 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Angry Wife!! |
An extremely experienced mechanic used to send his wife to Atlantic City
for the day and wash engine cylinders in the dishwasher. It works great
and does not appear to hurt or discolor the dishwasher. I tried it and it
does work well.
Try lime out or toilet bowl cleaner as it will have a diluted acid in it.
Roberto Giusti wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> This morning I washed some aluminum ribs and spars in the bath tub.
> they left black marks all over the tub and I can't seem to get them off
> with anything.
>
> Does anyone know of a specific product that works?
> I tried all the household products and paint thinner, but the don't
> work.
>
> TIA
>
> Roberto Giusti
> roby(at)mail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angry Wife!! |
It is amazing how good aluminum oxide will stick to stuff.
I used lime-away. It's in a green bottle. Still have to use a brush and
work at it.
Greg
> Listers,
>
> This morning I washed some aluminum ribs and spars in the bath tub.
> they left black marks all over the tub and I can't seem to get them off
> with anything.
>
> Does anyone know of a specific product that works?
> I tried all the household products and paint thinner, but the don't
> work.
>
> TIA
>
> Roberto Giusti
> roby(at)mail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Air Force Data Plates |
>> Or you can buy yourself a set of steel letter/number punches at Harbor
>> Freight Tools for $7.99 and do it yourself......
I tried that on my first data plate. I used to think I was pretty good at
stamping out letters on metal. End result: it was UGLY. Why have a
beautiful new airplane and a sloppy looking data plate? Almost everyone
that comes up to the airplane looks at that data plate. (Course, mine is in
a -4 and right under the canopy on the rear deck.) Get it engraved; I did.
Looks professionally done because it was.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
ED: The install on my RV was possible by placing all the nut on and slowly
tighten all of the nuts together. With a little patience and the use of an
old ground down open end wrench it is possible. Sometimes you have to use a
screwdriver to tap the most inboard nut tight. My latest Vac pump was a
Airborne 215CC which seemed to have a little more room than the older
211/212 pump. Hope this helps
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB - In Canopy Hell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 10:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Installing vacuum pump
>
> I'm in the process of gyro-equipping my 6A, and I'm curious... Is it
> physically possible to install a vacuum pump without one of those cute
> little special-purpose wrenches? If so, (short of removing the oil filter
> pad and right magneto) HOW?
>
> I may be able to borrow one from the local mech, but thought I'd ask...
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
> RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
> Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
> ebundy(at)micron.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Index: AcAcbTCeUh2mcpyUTWGDHOerMyyP5wAUA3zg
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Installing vacuum pump
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
| Subject: | Installing vacuum pump |
In many instances even the specially bent wrench won't work. In that
case, a long, thin screwdriver and hammer will get the nut off and
on--don't worry about damaging the nut. It takes a while, but be
patient, it will work. This is a common method used to remove the nut.
Try the wrench first and if it doesn't work the screwdriver trick will
work.
Thanks!
Bob Japundza
RealMed Corporation
www.realmed.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Bundy [mailto:ebundy(at)micron.net]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Installing vacuum pump
I'm in the process of gyro-equipping my 6A, and I'm curious... Is it
physically possible to install a vacuum pump without one of those cute
little special-purpose wrenches? If so, (short of removing the oil
filter
pad and right magneto) HOW?
I may be able to borrow one from the local mech, but thought I'd ask...
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: battery trade-offs |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Bob,
>
>Since you're doing a bibliography, I'll throw in my experience. I've messed
>with nicads in the past and don't think much of them as replacements for
>Alkaline AA cells. They just don't last long enough. But my Garmin handheld
>GPS 90 will go through a set of AA Duracells on the way to OSH and another
>on the way back. So at OSH I decided to try some NmH. Got eight of these
>little green generic deals for $2.50 ea from Batteries America booth. So far
>I like them -- they seem to last as long as the Duracells but are
>rechargable. Being environmentally conscious I try to avoid disposable
>anyhing, including batteries.
>
>As for the quality and longevity, time will tell.
>
The Nimh are generally much higher capacity than their
Nicad cousins and we should expect them to outperform
the Nicads. I use Nimh in my amateur radio hand-helds
and have also noticed improved longevity . . . at least
with respect to usage. Nicad and Nimh have much higher
self-discharge rates than alkalines and therefore have
very poor shelf life by comparison . . . but for gizmos
that are used regularly, the Nimh is an excellent
alternative. I think service life of the Nimh should
be on a par with Nicad.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Meacham <bruceme(at)exmsft.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3-List: RV-3 wing incidence/twist |
Oh this reminds me...
> Did fix my leaking fuselage tank (didn't like
> that gas smell in the cockpit)
For the benifit of those who haven't flown a -3 yet...
If you have a fuse tank, be very careful no to spill while refueling and be
very careful to put the cap on tightly and wipe up any gas in the rim.
The following is a re-enactement of actual events:
After asking for a straight out departure from the long runway (8,000'), I
abruptly ask for a landing.
Paine Tower: "Expiremental 56B is there an emergency?"
Me: "There's gas on my canopy and I'd like to land"
Paine Tower: "Clear to land any runway"...[Silence]
On roll out I found I had a big yellow flashing escort... It wasn't fun
explaining that I didn't do a proper job of refueling. But the Paine Field
emergency crew is phenominal! Hats off, I owe them a six pack.
My 0.02
Bruce
Meacham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"'RV-List Digest Server'"
| Subject: | vacuum pump wrench |
> Is it
> > physically possible to install a vacuum pump without one of those cute
> > little special-purpose wrenches? If so, (short of removing the oil
> filter
> > pad and right magneto) HOW?
> I only had to remove the right mag, not the oil filter pad.
>
> If I were you I'd beg, borrow or steal the tool.
>
>
Yes, fairly easily. Just take an old wrench and grind the heck out of it to
clear the stuff in the way. I started with a thin el-cheapo brand wrench.
My 7/16" (I think that's the size) came out somewhat "S" shaped after
grinding it up. Also ground away much of the "ears" on the open end. I
don't remember if I heated it and bent it any... but it's possible. Just
keep grinding until it works.
Using the wrench requires patience as you only get a partial turn then must
turn the wrench around. No different than many tight spots though. And I
didn't remove anything but the vacuum pump. This was on an O-320 E3D with
an oil filter. I have used it on many other engines since then.
I was afraid that I might break the weakened wrench. Ha! I've been using
it for years now. It's amazing how often you replace those @#$% vacuum
pumps.
Vince Frazier
Mount Vernon, IN
Harmon Rocket II
N314VF reserved
http://www.usi.edu/CHEM/FACULTY/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Smilin Jack Fly-In |
The Smilin' Jack Fly-in is Saturday morning at Arthur Dunn Airport in
Titusville, FL. There will be at least one RV there by mid-morning (mine)
but hopefully some of you others can make it. As an added bonus, 100LL is
$1.85 there.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy J. Pflanzer" <rpflanze(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
I got this trick from the video series "Been there Done that..."
Take a cheap box end wrench of the correct size for the nut. Heat the end
with a propane torch and bend the end almost 90 degrees. Then take a Dremel
of die grinder and cut a small section out of the box end from about 10
o'clock to 2 o'clock. You now have a wrench that will fit over the nut and
give you enough room to turn it about 20 degrees each turn.
It's slow but it works.
Randy Pflanzer N417G
RV-6 (45 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Installing vacuum pump
>
> I'm in the process of gyro-equipping my 6A, and I'm curious... Is it
> physically possible to install a vacuum pump without one of those cute
> little special-purpose wrenches? If so, (short of removing the oil filter
> pad and right magneto) HOW?
>
> I may be able to borrow one from the local mech, but thought I'd ask...
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
> RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
> Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
> ebundy(at)micron.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Phone number for Ed Sterba |
I am looking for a current phone number for Edward Sterba Propellers.
Please email me off list.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
If your wife has ever yelled, "Get these airplane parts out of the bathtub
so I can take a bath!"
You might be a Redneck.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Roberto Giusti [mailto:roby(at)mail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 3:06 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Angry Wife!!
This morning I washed some aluminum ribs and spars in the
bath tub.
they left black marks all over the tub and I can't seem to
get them off
with anything.
Does anyone know of a specific product that works?
I tried all the household products and paint thinner, but
the don't
work.
TIA
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
I made a simple wrench I've used for years to remove and install vacuum
pumps. I started with a common combination wrench. I cut a slot in the
closed end just large enought to clear the threads on the mounting stud. I
then cut the handle down to about 3 inches. A Dremel tool makes quick
work of the cuts. Firm finger pressure on the handle yields the proper torque.
It may be necessary to rotate the right mag some for clearance, but you
won't have to remove it to install the pump.
Bob
> I'm in the process of gyro-equipping my 6A, and I'm curious... Is it
> physically possible to install a vacuum pump without one of those cute
> little special-purpose wrenches? If so, (short of removing the oil
> filter pad and right magneto) HOW?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Team Rocket vs. Vans Wingtips |
Rob,
I think I remember Van testing a set of the sheared tips awhile back,
and they reported no discernable difference in speed. Others who have
tried to make the comparison have generally had inconsistent results.
I asked Dave Anders about the sheared tips last year at Copperstate. He
said the sheared tips help to reduce the turbulence of the wingtip
vortice, and in so doing, they do create a net speed increase of 1-3
mph. BUT, according to Dave, you will only begin see this increase at
what would be top speed for an RV. At typical RV cruising speeds, the
difference is slight enough that you may not be able to measure it. The
Rocket guys are able to benefit from the sheared tips because they are
able to attain cruising speeds of 200 mph or more. The sheared tips are
also important to guys like Dave Anders and others who participate in
races, and fly full throttle from start to finish at speeds of 220 to
240 mph. But at speeds of 170-200 mph that most RV's cruise at, it's
probably not going to make enough difference to justify the expense.
Unless, of course, you just like the way they look!
George True
RE Miller wrote:
>
> Hello Listers!
>
> I have not been able to find anyone who has
> experienced a direct comparison (i.e. removed one and
> replaced with another) of these two makes of wingtips.
> My Van's tips are in the garage ready for
> installation and I hate to spend $500 to replace them
> with something comparable. On the other hand, if the
> Rocket' Sheared tips bring on an extra 5 knots, (and
> they looked better IMHO) this purchase would be
> justified. Guidance and wisdom please!
>
> Rob Miller
> RV8 80153 Finishing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Air Force Data Plates |
09/12/2000 11:44:01 AM
Get it engraved. I tried stamping it too and it looked like a ransome
note.......
KostaLewis (at)matronics.com on 09/12/2000 09:13:39 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to KostaLewis
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Air Force Data Plates
>> Or you can buy yourself a set of steel letter/number punches at Harbor
>> Freight Tools for $7.99 and do it yourself......
I tried that on my first data plate. I used to think I was pretty good at
stamping out letters on metal. End result: it was UGLY. Why have a
beautiful new airplane and a sloppy looking data plate? Almost everyone
that comes up to the airplane looks at that data plate. (Course, mine is in
a -4 and right under the canopy on the rear deck.) Get it engraved; I did.
Looks professionally done because it was.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
"'Bob Newman'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | Installing vacuum pump |
You've spent $2000 + on tools building a great airplane. Why not buy the
proper tool
and add it to your collection. It sounds expensive for a tool you'll only
use a few
times over the course of owning the aircraft, but how many of you have sold
the tools you used to build with??
Ed Cole
RV6A Finish Kit
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Newman [SMTP:newmanb(at)rocketmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 8:21 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Ed Bundy
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing vacuum pump
>
>
>
> I made a simple wrench I've used for years to remove and install vacuum
> pumps. I started with a common combination wrench. I cut a slot in the
> closed end just large enought to clear the threads on the mounting stud.
> I
> then cut the handle down to about 3 inches. A Dremel tool makes quick
> work of the cuts. Firm finger pressure on the handle yields the proper
> torque.
> It may be necessary to rotate the right mag some for clearance, but you
> won't have to remove it to install the pump.
>
> Bob
>
> > I'm in the process of gyro-equipping my 6A, and I'm curious... Is it
> > physically possible to install a vacuum pump without one of those cute
> > little special-purpose wrenches? If so, (short of removing the oil
> > filter pad and right magneto) HOW?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| Subject: | Re: battery trade-offs |
Bob,
We use NiMHs in several products now in place of NiCds. The gain in run time
has been excellent due to the increased energy density. I have several 3.6
volt packs rated at 1300mah that are physically the same size as the 600mah
NiCds we used to use. I have run several life tests and found that they
generally have 20-30% longer life (charge / discharge cycles). The one
downside is that the internal impedance is higher, so they won't supply the
high currents that the NiCds will. Our applications are less than 2 amps
discharge using the above pack. The newer ones that we use can be trickle
charged continuously at a 0.1C rate or less without degrading the life and,
of course, the "memory" problem doesn't exist. I have converted a battery
pack for a screwdriver and found it to work fine. Finally, I have done an
audit of the factory (GPI) in China and found it to be quite good.
Bill C., RV8A Fuselage, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: battery trade-offs
>
> >Bob,
> >
> >Since you're doing a bibliography, I'll throw in my experience. I've
messed
> >with nicads in the past and don't think much of them as replacements for
> >Alkaline AA cells. They just don't last long enough. But my Garmin
handheld
> >GPS 90 will go through a set of AA Duracells on the way to OSH and
another
> >on the way back. So at OSH I decided to try some NmH. Got eight of these
> >little green generic deals for $2.50 ea from Batteries America booth. So
far
> >I like them -- they seem to last as long as the Duracells but are
> >rechargable. Being environmentally conscious I try to avoid disposable
> >anyhing, including batteries.
> >
> >As for the quality and longevity, time will tell.
> >
>
> The Nimh are generally much higher capacity than their
> Nicad cousins and we should expect them to outperform
> the Nicads. I use Nimh in my amateur radio hand-helds
> and have also noticed improved longevity . . . at least
> with respect to usage. Nicad and Nimh have much higher
> self-discharge rates than alkalines and therefore have
> very poor shelf life by comparison . . . but for gizmos
> that are used regularly, the Nimh is an excellent
> alternative. I think service life of the Nimh should
> be on a par with Nicad.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Angry Wife!! |
09/12/2000 12:40:17 PM
Try baking some freshly primed small parts in the oven.......wives really
like this too.
Arthur Glaser (at)matronics.com on 09/12/2000 07:14:29
AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Arthur Glaser
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Angry Wife!!
An extremely experienced mechanic used to send his wife to Atlantic City
for the day and wash engine cylinders in the dishwasher. It works great
and does not appear to hurt or discolor the dishwasher. I tried it and it
does work well.
Try lime out or toilet bowl cleaner as it will have a diluted acid in it.
Roberto Giusti wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> This morning I washed some aluminum ribs and spars in the bath tub.
> they left black marks all over the tub and I can't seem to get them off
> with anything.
>
> Does anyone know of a specific product that works?
> I tried all the household products and paint thinner, but the don't
> work.
>
> TIA
>
> Roberto Giusti
> roby(at)mail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Mark Landall's Silicon-filled Starter Ring "Balancer" |
A while back Van's news letter said he was going to install a metal ring on
the starter ring gear that has metal ball (s?) inside a silicon-filled
circular cavity...the idea is that after a few hours of operation the
vibratory forces would place the balls in a position in the silicon fluid
that would counter the engine/prop vibes and smooth out the overall
vibration and also add inertial forces to a light or wooden prop-equipped
plane ...I know Mark still markets this product and wonder if anyone has
ever seen any follow-up from Van...or if someone is using the product and
can make comment.
Thanks RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mark Landall's Silicon-filled Starter Ring "Balancer" |
All I can say is it worked for me and I have a viberating sensenich 70x79
metal prop until I installed a landoll dampener.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark Landall's Silicon-filled Starter Ring "Balancer" |
Self balancing rings are not new. They have been used on auto wheels for
several decades. Later versions of Franklin engines have one built into the
starter gear. It works automatically inside of seconds not hours.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 11:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Mark Landall's Silicon-filled Starter Ring "Balancer"
>
> A while back Van's news letter said he was going to install a metal ring
on
> the starter ring gear that has metal ball (s?) inside a silicon-filled
> circular cavity...the idea is that after a few hours of operation the
> vibratory forces would place the balls in a position in the silicon fluid
> that would counter the engine/prop vibes and smooth out the overall
> vibration and also add inertial forces to a light or wooden prop-equipped
> plane ...I know Mark still markets this product and wonder if anyone has
> ever seen any follow-up from Van...or if someone is using the product and
> can make comment.
>
> Thanks RV6A Flying
> Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark Landall's Silicon-filled Starter Ring "Balancer" |
Did you have the prop dynamically balanced?
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
Go here to check out dynamic balancing of the prop on 399SB:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/airport5.html
=============================
PASSPAT(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> All I can say is it worked for me and I have a viberating sensenich 70x79
> metal prop until I installed a landoll dampener.
>
> Pat
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Magneto P-lead Connector |
I am using a multi-pin connector for the wiring going to the
instrument panel in my RV-4. My magneto switches (toggle) are on the panel.
Does anyone know if there is a way I can run the shielded magneto p-lead
wires through a
connector without defeating the purpose of the shielding? I have thought
about separating the wire and the shielding at the connector and crimping or
soldering the shielding to its own connector pin. I would do the same on
the other
side of the connector. Would this work?
Ted Lumpkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hurd <hurd(at)boernenet.com> |
OK, I have 90 hours on my RV6A 360/CS and am trying to iron out one
last irregularity:
#2 cylinder EGT runs about 20C hotter than the rest at all cruise power
settings. 1,3,4 are nicely grouped within 5C of each other. I swapped
EGT probes, no good; swapped out plugs, no good. Checked plug gaps (EIS
on R, mag on L), no good.
All my other engine temps are right-on. Can this anomaly be attributed
solely to the, "...differences in manifold distances and flow
characteristics will result in varied EGT temps"?
If there is anything else I should try, please let me know. BTW,
already tried Kas Thomas trick of using carb heat, no good. My EGT
guage is RMI with switch selector for cylinders. EGTs are all *much*
more in line at idle and low power settings.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Badges and visit to Steve Davis/Panel Pilot |
Listers:
I flew into Memphis last night to visit Steve at his shop to work on my
panel. I just couldn't seem to grasp all that he could do from his website.
Wow, was I impressed!! First he picks me up at the airport and we work in
his shop until 1:20 in the morning. And he stayed cheerful the entire time!!
He was quickly able to layout my panel on Autocad from what I did on Panel
Planner. Warning: Panel Planner only gives you an idea .... unfortunately
my idea on Panel Planner did not work in reality. Panel Planner does not
show you the true size of the instruments thus you think you have plenty of
room between them when in reality you need much more.
Steve then cut out my panel on acrylic for me to take home for a trial run.
I will also have Steve do the engraving for my arm rest/switch center as well
as data plate. I also saw the work Steve did on the badges. Guys, we owe
this guy a great big "Thank you".
He did over 400 badges -all for free, at night after his regular work hours.
If you could see the setup he has to go through for each badge - I wouldn't
wish this on someone that was getting paid for it much less FREE. I estimate
he could do about 4 - 5 badges per hour which means he spent approximately
100 hours of his spare time preparing free badges for all of us.
Thanks Steve !!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
North Carolina (N901LL res)
Cabin Details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Roseblade <davidagr(at)emirates.net.ae> |
Bob,
If the FAA accept your experience as to be able to sit for the exams, it is
assumed that you have all the necessary. I am an A&P of many years standing,
I actually converted my UK licenses in Fort Worth and although my experience
was only on airline equipment found it to OK as long as you study for it and
above all understand what is required. As an A&P one of the basic rules of
aircraft maintenance is that "YOU HAVE TO DO IT BY THE BOOK" so if you
encounter a task you never done before, simply step back - think about it -
read and understand the procedures - and carry it out. There are many guides
available which will inform you of what is required and even the typical
tasks you may be required to do. I remember on my practical having to do
stitching of an elevator patch repair - no mean feat for a guy who is used
to releasing B747's and Concorde after major maintenance and structural
repairs. However, when the examiner asked me what I thought about my result,
when I replied I am not happy and proceeded to do it again, he stopped me,
as the whole issue is about standards, and he accepted that I would never
release something that didn't make it.
Good luck and don't fret, follow all procedures and you can't go wrong, it
might take a long time but your result will always be safe even if you have
to keep doing it over and over again until it is right. I'm sure you know
after being involved in RV's !!
Regards
David Roseblade
RV6A Wings- UAE, Persian Gulf
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Japundza
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: A&P certificate
Listers,
I just received the blessing from the local FSDO that I have enough
experience to take the tests for an A&P certificate. My question for
you A&P's out there who got their certificates through practical
experience, what is the best way to train for the oral and practical
exams? I'm not sweating the writtens, but if I have to work on a jet
engine during the practical then I'm sure I won't do very well on the
test.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 33 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angry Wife!! |
Thanks to all that responded,
I couldn't find specific pruducts such as "Soft Scrub", they have
different commercial names here in Italy.
In the end I used toilet bowl cleaner for the bath tub(thanks Arthur).
It did an exellent job on the bottom of the tub, the marks just melted
away.
The vertical surfaces were a bit more difficult to get clean.
The wall tiles were another matter, (don't ask HOW I got marks there!),
the toilet bowl cleaner wouldn't even touch the marks.
I used the finer (gray) Scotch Brite pad (thanks Bob) on them with good
results.
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
RV8 QB, VS primed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Air Force Data Plates |
Listers:
Steve Davis at Panel Pilot engraves the data plates too. I saw one he did
yesterday and it was great !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
North Carolina (N901LL res)
Cabin Details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
EGT readings are RELATIVE... Just remember that they are relative. If the
rest of the engine parameters are o.k. and Fly and forget it!
I am presuming your engine is carbureted, it could be distribution
irregularities.
An 1/8" difference in probe location could make a 20 degree difference.
There also could be better cooling to that stack and am presuming that it is
a front cylinder.
The exhaust flow could be different in that cylinder keeping the heat
longer.
BUT I would NOT SWEAT 20 degrees. 200 degrees but not 20.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "hurd" <hurd(at)boernenet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 2:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: EGT Mystery
>
> OK, I have 90 hours on my RV6A 360/CS and am trying to iron out one
> last irregularity:
>
> #2 cylinder EGT runs about 20C hotter than the rest at all cruise power
> settings. 1,3,4 are nicely grouped within 5C of each other. I swapped
> EGT probes, no good; swapped out plugs, no good. Checked plug gaps (EIS
> on R, mag on L), no good.
>
> All my other engine temps are right-on. Can this anomaly be attributed
> solely to the, "...differences in manifold distances and flow
> characteristics will result in varied EGT temps"?
>
> If there is anything else I should try, please let me know. BTW,
> already tried Kas Thomas trick of using carb heat, no good. My EGT
> guage is RMI with switch selector for cylinders. EGTs are all *much*
> more in line at idle and low power settings.
>
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Mixture arm interference with Bendix throttle body |
The overall height of the MA 4-5 Carburetor is 6.375
The overall height of the Bendix RSA5AD1 throttle body is 5.50
The minimum spacer thickness required to clear the mixture arm is .651 and
should go to .750 to allow for rod end clearance, this is based on using
Van,s filtered air box.
I have been able to arrange with a local machine shop to make these spacers
available for 35.00 US provided I can come up with a minimum order. Anyone
interested please let me know as soon as possible.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Jon is now in South Africa. He set another record enroute time being in
the air 15 hrs. 23 min. the longest ever in NOJ this was from Accra in
Ghana to Walvis Bay in Namibia.
Eustace
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Air Force Data Plates |
> Steve Davis at Panel Pilot engraves the data plates too. I saw one he did
> yesterday and it was great !!
How much?
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
09/12/2000 18:24:53
Yes...sorta. I trimmed more for access and clearance to the bolt head (of
the aileron). You can swing the flap way down (remove flap push rod) and
now you have access to the aileron bolt head for removal and such. Most
folks trim the flap skin (contact your local Moyal) to arc back toward the
fuse. baybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch at the top of the flap skin. Also, be sure
the bolt head on the LOWER aireron bracket---the pivit-- bolt head clears
the bottom flap skin.....in all combo's of aireron movement & flap
movement. A few seconds with a dremmel sanding drum will clear this up (if
needed)....
"Mike Comeaux" (at)matronics.com on 09/11/2000 11:10:28 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Mike Comeaux"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Flaps
Do you have trimm the flap a little to clear the pushrod for aileron for
movemont? did I miss something here?
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Angry Wife!! |
There is a product called greased lightning available in most grocery
stores and hardwares. It would clean stuff off an old Airstream RV
that nothing else would touch. Use gloves. It is inexpensive and
comes in a squirt bottle. Powerful stuff.
Roberto Giusti wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> This morning I washed some aluminum ribs and spars in the bath tub.
> they left black marks all over the tub and I can't seem to get them off
> with anything.
>
> Does anyone know of a specific product that works?
> I tried all the household products and paint thinner, but the don't
> work.
>
> TIA
>
> Roberto Giusti
> roby(at)mail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
has anyone come up with a manual elevator trim wheelfor the RV6/6A Could
you share some details?
Peter Laurence
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto P-lead Connector |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
> I am using a multi-pin connector for the wiring going to the
>instrument panel in my RV-4. My magneto switches (toggle) are on the panel.
>Does anyone know if there is a way I can run the shielded magneto p-lead
>wires through a
>connector without defeating the purpose of the shielding? I have thought
>about separating the wire and the shielding at the connector and crimping or
>soldering the shielding to its own connector pin. I would do the same on
>the other
>side of the connector. Would this work?
That's the way to do it. Each shielded wire takes a shield through
along side the inner conductors on its own pin.
Be aware however that the signals on p-leads are the highest voltage
and shortest rise-time signals of any wiring other than spark plug
wires . . . I'd suggest you go ahead and try it but be cognizant of
interference potential between magneto noise and other systems
sharing the connector. Let me know how it works out for you!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props........H2AD Pistons in O-320 |
09/12/2000 08:11:09 PM
The H2AD pistons raise the C/R a bit. With the 100L/L fuel we use there is
no problem with detonation margin or general operating procedures. You
probably can't run auto fuel with the increased C/R....but come to think of
it...in a pinch...... hi-octain auto would probably work. I have no direct
current data on the H2AD piston swap mod. I investigated it 2 years ago and
there were enough people doing it with sufficient time in service that I
choose to keep the mod as a option for me. Sorry, I have no direct data as
mentioned but if I recall there were also some field STC's to do this.....I
am really reaching into the dust bin here but there are at least two mod
shops that raise the HP in Grummans (Cheetas) by doing the piston
trick......and this mod is STC'ed. Be sure to investigate as I am sure
some O-320's aren't good canditates for this mod.....Any folks have more
data on this option?
Jeff Point (at)matronics.com on 09/12/2000 05:30:09 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Jeff Point
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engines & Props...
I assume you are refering to the H2AD pistons. Has anyone actually tested
an
engine with these pistons on a dynamometer (sp?) to test the HP? And does
any
one have any ideas what this higher compression does to engine wear and
TBO?
I ask because my engine choice (this week anyway) is an O320 from Bart,
with
H2AD pistons, Ellison TB, lightspeed igntion, CS prop.
Jeff Point
-6 wings
Milwaukee, WI
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> Range is a factor too. The 180 hp expects more fuel then the 160 hp. We
> only carry a limited fuel quanitity so range can be a factor here. Weight
> for a 180 with a cs prop AND a prop govenor will be more dollars & cut
> into the range. A lighter 160 hp (with 170 hp pistons) with a fp prop
may
> yield the performance you want.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BSEckstein(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
I had to remove the vacuum pump after installing the engine. I found that an
11mm box end wrench with a slot cut in it to clear the stud and then cut off
to about 2 inches allowed continuous access to the one nasty nut.
Brian Eckstein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props........H2AD Pistons in O-320 |
I was told by a reputable engine shop that you shouldn't use high
compression pistons in the narrow-deck O-320s.
I think wide decks are identified by an 'A' after the suffix e.g. -39A.
I believe the Van's manual has something about this.
I was also told that visually they can be identified by the cylinder
base nuts - they have some of the round type with an internal hex
whereas the wide deck engines have all hex nuts. Perhaps someone else
can confirm this?
Chris
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> The H2AD pistons raise the C/R a bit. With the 100L/L fuel we use there is
> no problem with detonation margin or general operating procedures. You
> probably can't run auto fuel with the increased C/R....but come to think of
> it...in a pinch...... hi-octain auto would probably work. I have no direct
> current data on the H2AD piston swap mod. I investigated it 2 years ago and
> there were enough people doing it with sufficient time in service that I
> choose to keep the mod as a option for me. Sorry, I have no direct data as
> mentioned but if I recall there were also some field STC's to do this.....I
> am really reaching into the dust bin here but there are at least two mod
> shops that raise the HP in Grummans (Cheetas) by doing the piston
> trick......and this mod is STC'ed. Be sure to investigate as I am sure
> some O-320's aren't good canditates for this mod.....Any folks have more
> data on this option?
>
> Jeff Point (at)matronics.com on 09/12/2000 05:30:09 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Jeff Point
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, Philip Condon/CIV/CSC@CSC
> cc:
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engines & Props...
>
>
> I assume you are refering to the H2AD pistons. Has anyone actually tested
> an
> engine with these pistons on a dynamometer (sp?) to test the HP? And does
> any
> one have any ideas what this higher compression does to engine wear and
> TBO?
> I ask because my engine choice (this week anyway) is an O320 from Bart,
> with
> H2AD pistons, Ellison TB, lightspeed igntion, CS prop.
>
> Jeff Point
> -6 wings
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Range is a factor too. The 180 hp expects more fuel then the 160 hp. We
> > only carry a limited fuel quanitity so range can be a factor here. Weight
> > for a 180 with a cs prop AND a prop govenor will be more dollars & cut
> > into the range. A lighter 160 hp (with 170 hp pistons) with a fp prop
> may
> > yield the performance you want.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVPilot4(at)webtv.net (BOBE.) |
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props........H2AD Pistons in O-320 |
09/12/2000 08:11:09 PM
I installed H 9 to 1 pistons in a A2B two years and 200 hours ago.I
tried Amoco premium and it does not like it.I believe auto fuel is not
an option with H pistons.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angry Wife!! |
I heard of putting wire wheel hub caps for the car in the dishwasher to
clean them, but don't tell the wife!
do no archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arthur Glaser" <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Angry Wife!!
>
> An extremely experienced mechanic used to send his wife to Atlantic City
> for the day and wash engine cylinders in the dishwasher. It works great
> and does not appear to hurt or discolor the dishwasher. I tried it and it
> does work well.
>
> Try lime out or toilet bowl cleaner as it will have a diluted acid in it.
>
> Roberto Giusti wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > This morning I washed some aluminum ribs and spars in the bath tub.
> > they left black marks all over the tub and I can't seem to get them off
> > with anything.
> >
> > Does anyone know of a specific product that works?
> > I tried all the household products and paint thinner, but the don't
> > work.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Roberto Giusti
> > roby(at)mail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants(DNA) |
Hi John,
The term pressure recovery is derived from the idea that if we can keep the
flow attached as it slows back down after accelerating around the front part
of an object, then the static pressure will be recovered (increased as the
velocity decreases)on the backside of the object. If this happens than the
drag will be less on the object than if the flow separates and we get the
very low static on the back half of the object. Vans new wheel pants have a
cross-sectional area versus length that promotes better attachment than the
old ones. The difference is around 5 mph top speed change!!
The classic is a golf ball and its dimples. The dimples energize the bouldary
layer and keeps the flow attached. The attached flow recovers the pressure
and the ball goes farther than a smooth ball. Also a smooth ball is very
erratic in flight because sometimes the flow may attach momentarily on one
side which pushes the ball off course. Should we put dimples(or vortex
generators on our airplanes)? Only if we have a separation problem!!
Hope this helps a little,
Bernie Kerr, 6A, 50 hours, down for painting and I'm down fighting allergic
problems with sanding epoxy, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | SC2 Plans view question |
HI:
I am stuck here; I finished riveting the reinforce
angle, which goes center rib, that will hold the
canopy support "tube" WD 643( I have the sliding
type)
Now I realize, there is something else, should
go there? is a trapezoid like,, and it lists
to be riveted, using AN 470 AD 3-3.5
Can some one tell me, what that is? where is
in the plans, as to dimmesions, no. etc?
Unless, I am missing something I looked thru
60 pages plans, looking for something like that...
'
I received revised plans with finishing kit,
about 9 mos. ago.
If there has been a correction on this, I am
sure Mr. Vangrunse,being a nice guy he is, would
immediately send copy of the page, showing correction
or amendment, to all customers, when necessary...
I cannot unserstand how any one can make a
drawing like this, without at least a notation
referring to , either another page, if that is
where one could find full view and explanation.
But why not to do it right there, either on
Section B B, or below it..
I am sure that, Van's would not leave something
like this on the air, since not all of us are experts.
Thank you
Bert rv6a
Do Not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | SC2 Plans view question |
HI:
I am stuck here; I finished riveting the reinforce
angle, which goes center rib, that will hold the
canopy support "tube" WD 643( I have the sliding
type)
Now I realize, there is something else, should
go there? is a trapezoid like,, and it lists
to be riveted, using AN 470 AD 3-3.5
Can some one tell me, what that is? where is
in the plans, as to dimmesions, no. etc?
Unless, I am missing something I looked thru
60 pages plans, looking for something like that...
'
I received revised plans with finishing kit,
about 9 mos. ago.
If there has been a correction on this, I am
sure Mr. Vangrunse,being a nice guy he is, would
immediately send copy of the page, showing correction
or amendment, to all customers, when necessary...
I cannot unserstand how any one can make a
drawing like this, without at least a notation
referring to , either another page, if that is
where one could find full view and explanation.
But why not to do it right there, either on
Section B B, or below it..
I am sure that, Van's would not leave something
like this on the air, since not all of us are experts.
Thank you
Bert rv6a
Do Not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
Ken
I do not have that fairing at present, But I will look into it.
It shouldn't take long to put that mold together.
I'll get back to you by this time next week.
Bob
Fairings Etc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 oil cooler change results |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
> As always, your input is greatly valued here. What I failed to
> mention in
> my first post...I think, is that a baffle mounted Positech even on a
>
> smaller, O-320 engine in an RV-6A would not cool at all. It went to
> redline
> after two circuits around the pattern. This environment is killer
> on
> engines...high and hot.
-
Like I said before there are "lots" of variables between one airplane
(even of the same model) and without seeing your friends airplane I can't
know if any of them would be and issue. You may not know, but I lived in
PHX (and flew my RV there) before coming to Oregon, so I know very well
what dealing with the heat is all about.
Here is an example of one issue that can be a factor. Was your friends
engine brand new or freshly overhauled? The oil temps that you need to
deal with in the first couple hours can be significantly different that
what they will be in all of the hours to follow.
Couple that with a first flight during the hot weather in your area and
you can have a severe situation. If he was able to fly during cooler
weather for the first 10 hrs or so he may have been just fine (I am
making an assumption that it happened during hot weather).
I know full well that an apples to apples
> comparison would require simply placing the Niagara in the existing
> firewall
> mounted location with neatly routed 3" scat duct.
-
How about just temporarily putting the positech on the baffle and see
how the #'s compare to what you are getting now?
-
This entire
> project was a
> lot of work, requiring removal of the front baggage hold floors,
> hoses,
> clamps, pipe fittings, baffles, etc. The Positech is a very heavy
> unit when
> full of oil. I did not want to hang it on the baffle. The Niagara
> is
> lighter. I know the scat hose attenuates airflow. I'm in the HVAC
> business
> so I have ample experience here. So, on the baffle it went. Nuff
> said.
>
> So, I say again that a Positech will most likely be incapable of
> performing
> it's intended task here IN THIS ENVIRONMENT. Perhaps I should have
> added
> that clarifier initially. It did not work for me, it did not work
> for Pat
> Kirkpatrick, as mentioned in the RV-6A case above, who had to hook
> up
> another Positech....a MUCH larger one, in series with the first one
> ON THE
> BAFFLE to get oil temp down. That's all the data I personally need.
>
I think that type of thinking is in error (the main point of my post)
because all these airplanes are different and are built by different
builders.
I have seen Identical RV models, with identical engines, with identical
oil coolers, have drastically different oil temps while operating in the
same temp air in PHX. Because of this type of information, I (and all of
the other tech people at Van's) have learned that we can't jump to any
conclusions from the experience of just one or two customers.
-
I really think he has/had other issues effecting the oil temps. Our
RV-9A with the smallest Positech just went to southern CA this past
weekend with no problems. I will be flying it to PHX for copperstate
(often still gets to 100 deg or more) and I will be able to see how it
does. If it does poorly we will recommend that builders in hot climates
not use it.
>
> Great to see ya on the list again, Scott. Stop by AEG anytime for
> free
> eats.
-
If I'm out that way you can count on it.
-
>We can use the Positech as a coffee warmer. HAH! OK, I'll
> shut up
> now.
_
Sorry... I don't drink coffee.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
Hmmmm.
Cannot remember the exact place bu once upon a time there was someone
offering one. Maybe the archives has something on it. Was bout 2 years ago
that I saw it. Soooo. Something did at least exist in this area.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter laurence" <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 6:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Trim wheel
>
> has anyone come up with a manual elevator trim wheelfor the RV6/6A Could
> you share some details?
>
>
> Peter Laurence
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: YEEHAW TODAY'S THE DAY! |
>
>
>Today I had the thrill of a life time. I flew my RV64TL for the first
time.
> Everything was as it should be. All systems worked to my surprise. The
>sun shone, my wife, son and grandkids looked on as I slipped the bonds of
>earth and danced into the sky on silvered wings.
>With easy grace and delirious wondrous thoughts I flew Tango Lima after
>three years of part-time construction, as my full time job kept getting in
>the way.. To those of you who are still building it's worth the time and
>effort. To those of you who are flying you know the feeling.
>
>Tom Benedict Dexter, New Mexico
>(Proud Owner and Builder of an RV6)
>
For those that don't know, a little background.
Tom built and flew his RV-6 at his house. The 2600 foot gravel airstrip is
just feet from the living room. The place is called Benedict Airpark and I
saw someone wearing a Benedict Airpark tee shirt in El Paso last Sunday.
Benedicts are famous for the fly-in barbeque they used to have. Other
planes based at their house are their C-170, their Cygnet (also built by
Tom), their son's C-140, a C-172 and a Little Toot.
These are the folks that are putting on the Pecos Valley Air Race October
28th (505-622-3458 for info), in connection with three EAA chapters. I know
there is almost too much fun in October for any one pilot to stand, but I
think this is the start of a good event. I'm hoping lots of RV's show up.
We can see who really did the good building job!
Three years, a full-time job, and a long-build kit. I'm humbled.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying (to Bracket Field this weekend)
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SC2 Plans view question |
Bert: I am at home now so this will be general in nature. The trapezoid
piece you was asking about is a doubler for the windshield support tube
angle. It should go on the other side of the bulkhead and will act as a
doubler to give the angle more support. Two other gotchas are the 3/4"
angle need to go back far enough to allow the canopy support rod to connect
without interference with the canopy windscreen, as it looks like it will
come to about the bulkhead. The angle which is suppose to allow the 1/8"
windshield support rod to slide in later when you put the roll bar in
through the forward skin. It will be real tight unless you add a shim under
the 3/4" angle. I hope this is not too confusing, I am sure some of the
canopy Guru's will have a much clearer example.
Regards Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB Canopy Hell DNA
----- Original Message -----
From: "bert murillo" <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 9:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: SC2 Plans view question
>
> HI:
>
> I am stuck here; I finished riveting the reinforce
> angle, which goes center rib, that will hold the
> canopy support "tube" WD 643( I have the sliding
> type)
>
> Now I realize, there is something else, should
> go there? is a trapezoid like,, and it lists
> to be riveted, using AN 470 AD 3-3.5
>
> Can some one tell me, what that is? where is
> in the plans, as to dimmesions, no. etc?
>
> Unless, I am missing something I looked thru
> 60 pages plans, looking for something like that...
> '
> I received revised plans with finishing kit,
> about 9 mos. ago.
> If there has been a correction on this, I am
> sure Mr. Vangrunse,being a nice guy he is, would
> immediately send copy of the page, showing correction
> or amendment, to all customers, when necessary...
>
> I cannot unserstand how any one can make a
> drawing like this, without at least a notation
> referring to , either another page, if that is
> where one could find full view and explanation.
>
> But why not to do it right there, either on
> Section B B, or below it..
>
> I am sure that, Van's would not leave something
> like this on the air, since not all of us are experts.
>
> Thank you
>
> Bert rv6a
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: SC2 Plans view question |
Bert,
I just did this last month.
The part you are referring to is the F-6109 support plate/stiffener. It
should be in your kit. If not I'm sure Van will send you one (can't cost more
than $1.00) or you can make your own.
The F-6109 IS SHOWN on Drawing SC-2 in section B-B, as a cutaway (smack
dab in the center of the page). Look just below section B-B and you'll see a
picture of it with no identification. Also, it is shown on drawing SC-3 at
the top left.
From what you are describing you will have to drill out a few rivets to
install the plate.
As a sidebar............you may want to pull up the Frank Justice notes
and go to the "Sliding Canopy Windscreen Supports Installation" section.
Rick Gray (Ohio) raining at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark Landall's Silicon-filled Starter Ring "Balancer" |
I have an O-320 H2AD 160 hp engine with Sensenich metal prop. The prop
was dynamically balanced and I could not detect an improvement though
they said the numbers indicated a sucessful balance. The weight was
removed and the Landoll balancer was installed. The vibration level
decreased, in my opinion, and I have been told that it is about as
smooth as a Lyc four banger will get. I suspect the prop blast
contributes to the vibration too.
Will Cretsinger, Arlington, Texas
-6A flying past 280 hours
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Did you have the prop dynamically balanced?
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
>
> Go here to check out dynamic balancing of the prop on 399SB:
>
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/airport5.html
>
> =============================
>
> PASSPAT(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> >
> > All I can say is it worked for me and I have a viberating sensenich 70x79
> > metal prop until I installed a landoll dampener.
> >
> > Pat
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | meketa <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
Peter and anyone who cares,
RANS aircraft builds a trim wheel assm which will control a single
control cable. Believe it is the same as in the Aircraft Spruce catalog.
It was available a lot cheaper direct from Rans. 785-625-6346
George Meketa
>
> has anyone come up with a manual elevator trim wheelfor the RV6/6A Could
> you share some details?
>
> Peter Laurence
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dall" <rdall(at)clinipath.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SC2 Plans view question |
I am not long finishing this part - see plan SC-3 for the part you described
(trapezoid ?) F-6109.
I was not sure which end to orientate forward so went with the "make it fit"
solution.
If you look at plan FORWARD FUSELAGE SIDE VIEW on SC-3 you get a clue.
Richard Dall
RV-6
Perth, Western Australia
Still Starting Canopy
----- Original Message -----
From: bert murillo <bertrv6(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 9:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: SC2 Plans view question
|
| HI:
|
| I am stuck here; I finished riveting the reinforce
| angle, which goes center rib, that will hold the
| canopy support "tube" WD 643( I have the sliding
| type)
|
| Now I realize, there is something else, should
| go there? is a trapezoid like,, and it lists
| to be riveted, using AN 470 AD 3-3.5
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length |
I've been off the list for over a year. I just checked the Archives
for "elevator push tube" with and without ampersands between and got no
hits.
I have an RV-6 quick build kit that was delivered April 1999. I've just
finished drilling and bolting on the horiz and vert stabs and fitting
the elevators and drilling the matched holes in bottom of elevator horns
that pin the push tube rod end and elev's together.
Went to adjust the rod ends: Found the fwd push tube was at least 1 1/2
inches too long and will have to be removed from airframe, one rod end
drilled out and removed, and tube trimmed, etc.
I called Van's Support this morning and talked to Scott (Risan?) who
said he has never received a call from any of the 500 qb kit owners who
had this problem with the elev push tubes not being good when done per
the plans. So we agreed I'd put this on the RV-list and see if I am the
only one who has this problem.
If others have the problem or it is universal, then Van's will entertain
the idea of deleting the length dimension from the drawings and replace
(or supplement) with the same "builder's instruction" as is used for
aileron push tubes: Measure and fit before you do the 2nd rod end.
David Carter, Nederland, Texas, RV-6 QB>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark Landall's Silicon-filled Starter Ring "Balancer" |
John wrote:
>
>
> A while back Van's news letter said he was going to install a metal ring on
> the starter ring gear that has metal ball (s?) inside a silicon-filled
> circular cavity...the idea is that after a few hours of operation the
> vibratory forces would place the balls in a position in the silicon fluid
> that would counter the engine/prop vibes and smooth out the overall
> vibration and also add inertial forces to a light or wooden prop-equipped
> plane ...I know Mark still markets this product and wonder if anyone has
> ever seen any follow-up from Van...or if someone is using the product and
> can make comment.
>
> Thanks RV6A Flying
> Salida, CO
>
I have used one for about 700hrs on my O-360 with a wood prop
and I can say definitely that it worked for me, especially on
the O-360. Another problem with a wood prop 0n an O-360 is the
low end rpm, the wood props are light enough that they don't
have the inertia that a metal prop does with more weight. At
low throttle setting such as when gliding you don't get the flywheel
effect with wood as you do with metal. The harmonic balancer or
just the plain metal weight that mark has work great to help
this situation.
It does take about 6-10 hours of flying for the harmonic
balancer to find its set at cruise.
Oh BTW I now have an Sensenich metal prop on my RV-6 so I would
sell the Harmonic balancer as I do not need the extra weight up
front now.
JSpringer
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto P-lead Connector |
In a message dated 9/12/00 10:43:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
tlump(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I am using a multi-pin connector for the wiring going to the
instrument panel in my RV-4. My magneto switches (toggle) are on the panel.
Does anyone know if there is a way I can run the shielded magneto p-lead
wires through a
connector without defeating the purpose of the shielding? I have thought
about separating the wire and the shielding at the connector and crimping or
soldering the shielding to its own connector pin. I would do the same on
the other
side of the connector. Would this work? >>
Yes, but I would caution you as follows. I prefer to have no breaks
(connections/contacts) in the P-lead spans, but not because it is a problem
for shielding. The function of the P-leads is to short out the ignition and
you must have a reliable circuit to the switch(es) or one day that prop could
take your head or other important appendage off. The off circuit often goes
unchecked until the engine fires unexpectedly, then it's too late.
Contiguous wires for me.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)teleport.com> |
hurd wrote:
>
>
> OK, I have 90 hours on my RV6A 360/CS and am trying to iron out one
> last irregularity:
>
> #2 cylinder EGT runs about 20C hotter than the rest at all cruise power
> settings. 1,3,4 are nicely grouped within 5C of each other. I swapped
> EGT probes, no good; swapped out plugs, no good. Checked plug gaps (EIS
> on R, mag on L), no good.
>
> All my other engine temps are right-on. Can this anomaly be attributed
> solely to the, "...differences in manifold distances and flow
> characteristics will result in varied EGT temps"?
>
> If there is anything else I should try, please let me know. BTW,
> already tried Kas Thomas trick of using carb heat, no good. My EGT
> guage is RMI with switch selector for cylinders. EGTs are all *much*
> more in line at idle and low power settings.
>
> Jim
>
Jim just fly and forget it, 20 degrees is nothing when it comes to
EGT and you well probably never get it no matter what you try
especially on an carburetor engine. Even 100 degree's would not be
totally unreasonable.
JSpringer
jsflyrv(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
Inside the front cover of the second issue, 1999 of the RVAtor is a picture
of the interior of Lyle Hefel's truly exceptional RV-8, with "a trim wheel
of his own design".
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Uncured Polyester Filler |
I am using a product called Split-Second, a polyester filler using a cream
hardener. In my last session with it, I failed to mix in enough hardener.
It has now set up to the point where I can put an indentation in it with a
hard push with my fingernail. I tried to sand it and it just balls up. I
attacked it with acetone with very little result. I sure hope someone has a
miracle cure for getting this mess off otherwise I am looking at hours of
scraping and gouging.
Thanks,
Ross Mickey
6-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magneto P-lead Connector |
Please, Please be very careful with those P-leads. Run your wires unbroken
from Mag to Switch. I have had personal experience with a failed P-lead. A
hot mag can bite you when you least expect it.
Cash Copeland
QB #60075
RV-6 N46FC (Reserved)
Oakland, Ca
In a message dated 9/12/00 10:57:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
Vanremog(at)AOL.COM writes:
<<
In a message dated 9/12/00 10:43:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
tlump(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I am using a multi-pin connector for the wiring going to the
instrument panel in my RV-4. My magneto switches (toggle) are on the panel.
Does anyone know if there is a way I can run the shielded magneto p-lead
wires through a
connector without defeating the purpose of the shielding? I have thought
about separating the wire and the shielding at the connector and crimping or
soldering the shielding to its own connector pin. I would do the same on
the other
side of the connector. Would this work? >>
Yes, but I would caution you as follows. I prefer to have no breaks
(connections/contacts) in the P-lead spans, but not because it is a problem
for shielding. The function of the P-leads is to short out the ignition and
you must have a reliable circuit to the switch(es) or one day that prop
could
take your head or other important appendage off. The off circuit often goes
unchecked until the engine fires unexpectedly, then it's too late.
Contiguous wires for me.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length |
Try alex & elevator & bellcrank in the archives.
Ross
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length
>
> I've been off the list for over a year. I just checked the Archives
> for "elevator push tube" with and without ampersands between and got no
> hits.
>
> I have an RV-6 quick build kit that was delivered April 1999. I've just
> finished drilling and bolting on the horiz and vert stabs and fitting
> the elevators and drilling the matched holes in bottom of elevator horns
> that pin the push tube rod end and elev's together.
>
> Went to adjust the rod ends: Found the fwd push tube was at least 1 1/2
> inches too long and will have to be removed from airframe, one rod end
> drilled out and removed, and tube trimmed, etc.
>
> I called Van's Support this morning and talked to Scott (Risan?) who
> said he has never received a call from any of the 500 qb kit owners who
> had this problem with the elev push tubes not being good when done per
> the plans. So we agreed I'd put this on the RV-list and see if I am the
> only one who has this problem.
>
> If others have the problem or it is universal, then Van's will entertain
> the idea of deleting the length dimension from the drawings and replace
> (or supplement) with the same "builder's instruction" as is used for
> aileron push tubes: Measure and fit before you do the 2nd rod end.
>
> David Carter, Nederland, Texas, RV-6 QB>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Uncured Polyester Filler |
You're in deep sh*t. Do whatever is necessary to get that stuff off. I use 36
grit paper to level my still uncured bondo but that would probably damage your
underlying aluminum. Try a paint scraper, razor scraper or finer grit sandpaper.
But before you do any of the above, get out your trusty heat gun and see if high
heat will either soften it enough to easily scrape it off, or harden it enough
so that you can easily sand it off.
BTW, I use Evercoat Rage only.
Bruce
Glasair III
Ross Mickey wrote:
>
> I am using a product called Split-Second, a polyester filler using a cream
> hardener. In my last session with it, I failed to mix in enough hardener.
> It has now set up to the point where I can put an indentation in it with a
> hard push with my fingernail. I tried to sand it and it just balls up. I
> attacked it with acetone with very little result. I sure hope someone has a
> miracle cure for getting this mess off otherwise I am looking at hours of
> scraping and gouging.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ross Mickey
> 6-A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
Good points about P-Leads on the list. As I don't have an electrical
system on my Corben, I have a lot of manual starts under my belt. What
I like to do, especially at flyins where unsuspecting "tourists" might
move the prop, I shut off my fuel supply and let the engine run until it
quits. I then leave the fuel off until I'm ready to start. I THINK
that when shutting off an RV with the mixture control, you've
accomplished the same thing...as long as it's at idle cutoff, it
shouldn't start should it? Of course, you should ALWAYS treat a prop as
though it's live and will start!!
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines & Props........H2AD Pistons in O-320 |
I have a H2AD in my -6 and run a mix of 25% 100LL and 75% auto (93 octane). I
run the mix to provide some lead for the valves since they like that. In a
pinch I have run straight 93 octane auto and the engine ran fine.
John Henley, N6LD, 400 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Nguyen" <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com> |
| Subject: | Narco AT-150 Transponder Installation |
Listers,
I have installed a Narco AT-150 Transponder on the instrument panel on my RV-6A
and wonder if there are ways to verify the installation was done correctly.
When I turned the switch to "Stand By" or "On", the indicator light went on for
about 30 seconds and then off. Same thing happened if the switch was tuned
to "Alt". Your advice is greatly appreciated.
By the way, the transponder antenna was installed when the unit was powered on.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A
N747TN (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
"Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
If you're going to be at a fly-in or somewhere with non-airplane people
around, do a mag check before shutting down. Don't ground both mags while
under power, or it will probably backfire when you go back to hot.
Regarding a break in the P-lead... anyone have noise suppression capacitors
on their mags? I do. That's a break in the P-lead. I don't see where
using a connector makes the installation overly unsafe. An accident under
these circumstances would be a double-jeopardy situation and remote.
Pre-flight mag check should be more than adequate frequency for checking the
integrity of the P-leads, continuous or not, IMVHO.
Bryan Jones
-8 765BJ 55 hrs
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Question... |
--- Richard White wrote:
>
> Here is one for someone with good math skills..
>
> At what RPM would a 74" C/S prop go super sonic.
At what altitude? Sea Level?
- Mike
====
Michael E. Thompson (Grobdriver(at)yahoo.com)
Austin, TX, USA
RV-6 in progress, N140RV (Reserved)
EX-AX1 Sub Hunter, P-3 (B/B-TACMOD/C) Orion Aircrew,
PP-G,ASEL, Motorglider Driver and Unlimited Air Race Nut!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
"'RV-List Digest Server'"
| Subject: | elevator counterbalance question |
I am using the 0.020 skins on my RV-4 control surfaces this time around.
Did any of you RV-4 guys need to increase the size of the area where the
lead elevator counterbalance goes? Or is the standard size big enough? My
calculations seem to show that I need the weights to be about an inch longer
than when using the 0.016 skins. It's been too long since I've built a
stock RV-4 counterbalance and I can't remember how much lead was required
and if it completely filled the stock counterbalance area.
Thanks,
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants |
--- John wrote:
>
> The term "pressure recovery" confuses me somewhat...what is the
> physics/aerodynamics of these creatures?
> Rv6A Flying
> Salida, CO
There's a good article in this month's Kitplanes describing the
relationship of cross section and length to what happens to the
boundary layer as air travels down the fairing.
I think the term "Pressure recovery" has to do with the dimensions and
shape of the fairing helping to keep the boundary layer attached -
"recovering" that high pressure.
Also explains why vehicles with flat back ends (like my '92 Transport
was) are more efficient (read aerodynamic) than vehicles with tapered
back ends, since the taper cannot reasonably be long enough to keep the
boundary layer attached all the way to the end.
These fairings, apparently, are.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: elevator counterbalance question |
Hi Vince,
If you are using electric elevator trim, you may have to add some area on
the left side of the elevator. I poured lead into both sides on the weight
area. Removed about 50% of it on the right side. Removed very little from
the left where the electric trim servo was installed.
Cheers,
Tom Brown RV4 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Soldering station for sale |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
I've got a really nice temperature controlled solder station
up on Ebay . . .
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=434477668
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
"'Thomas Nguyen'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | Narco AT-150 Transponder Installation |
I think that this is OK. As I read the manual, the light indicates that
part of the circuit is heating up. Once operational, the light goes out and
you're just waiting for the unit to respond to radar.
By the way, my AT-150 produces a high-pitched whine in the headphones when
the radio is on and the transponder is on. Does yours?
Steve Soule
Huntington, VT
-----Original Message-----
I have installed a Narco AT-150 Transponder on the instrument panel on my
RV-6A and wonder if there are ways to verify the installation was done
correctly.
When I turned the switch to "Stand By" or "On", the indicator light went on
for about 30 seconds and then off. Same thing happened if the switch was
tuned to "Alt". Your advice is greatly appreciated.
By the way, the transponder antenna was installed when the unit was powered
on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length |
In a message dated 9/12/00 10:35:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
<< So we agreed I'd put this on the RV-list and see if I am the
only one who has this problem.
>>
Yes, mine was also too long. Do not remember how much too long.
Dale Ensing
6A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Zercher" <ez(at)sensenich.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Question... |
> At what RPM would a 74" C/S prop go super sonic.
For anyone who wishes to use it, we have a tip speed calculator at
http://www.sensenich.com/engineer/tipspeed.htm
Your browser must use Active X controls (sorry to everyone else, we only
know Visual Basic) and I assure you that it is safe. We wrote it ourselves.
It is set up to use our prop models so you would use the 74DM for your
example.
Ed Zercher
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator counterbalance question |
09/13/2000 11:48:46 AM
Just last night I mixed up a ounce or two of lead shot and epoxy, removed
my RV-4 horz. control surface and positioned it such that I could pour the
lead/epoxy slury into the weight area. YOu may want to go with the standard
lead and use this method to fine tune the ammount of lead needed. I can
fine-fine tune the lead ammount by using a 1/2 inch drill and removing lead
shavings from the orginal block of lead.....once the plane is painted....
VFrazier(at)usi.edu@matronics.com on 09/13/2000 10:01:18 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to VFrazier(at)usi.edu
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: elevator counterbalance question
I am using the 0.020 skins on my RV-4 control surfaces this time around.
Did any of you RV-4 guys need to increase the size of the area where the
lead elevator counterbalance goes? Or is the standard size big enough? My
calculations seem to show that I need the weights to be about an inch
longer
than when using the 0.016 skins. It's been too long since I've built a
stock RV-4 counterbalance and I can't remember how much lead was required
and if it completely filled the stock counterbalance area.
Thanks,
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Sunfire Paint |
I have Sunfire paint on a fabric covered homebuilt that is 13 years old and
the paint is doing great - even on the fabric. Just make sure you have proper
personal protection when applying the paint but you are probably aware of
that.
Dale Ensing
6A finishing
Cary Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 89 Msgs - 09/12/00 |
Re: Posts on 160 hp vs. 180 hp. High compression pistons and fuel economy.
Just a thought on high compression pistons in an O-320. The simple fact of
any compression boost is that it increases the thermodynamic efficiency of
an engine. If a stock O-320 makes 160hp, and higher compression pistons
allow it to make 170 hp, that is essentially FREE horsepower, with no
increase in fuel burn. What it does to reliability and longevity is still
an open issue although if the extra duty is reserved for take off and high
altitude operations, the difference could be negligable.
Don Mei
RV-4 (Low compression) O-320
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Narco AT-150 Transponder Installation |
09/13/2000 11:58:47 AM
The output cavity tube needs (lots of) warm up time. You also need to be
interrogated in order to reply. IF you live near a large airport, the
airborn TCAS equipt aircraft will interrogate you and will reply.
Otherwise, a radio shop needs to calabrate your encoder anyway......... At
that point they can verify the output of your x-ponder.
'
"Thomas Nguyen" (at)matronics.com on 09/13/2000
09:37:15 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Thomas Nguyen"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Narco AT-150 Transponder Installation
Listers,
I have installed a Narco AT-150 Transponder on the instrument panel on my
RV-6A and wonder if there are ways to verify the installation was done
correctly.
When I turned the switch to "Stand By" or "On", the indicator light went
on for about 30 seconds and then off. Same thing happened if the switch
was tuned to "Alt". Your advice is greatly appreciated.
By the way, the transponder antenna was installed when the unit was powered
on.
T.Nguyen
RV-6A
N747TN (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Busick" <panamared(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Greenbrier Valley Fly In and Car Show |
The Greenbrier EAA Chapter is having a Fly-in and Car Show at the Lewisburg
Airport, WV (LWB) on Sunday 17 September. You all are invited to drive or
fly. Bring your classic car, or any type of airplane, awards and trophies
will be given.
Young Eagles rides will be given, if you can help us as a Young Eagle pilot,
we would be greatful.
Bob Busick
RV-6
EAA Chapter 1276
Chapter President and
Young Eagle Coordinator
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/11/00 8:18:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time, mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
writes:
<< Do you have trimm the flap a little to clear the pushrod for aileron for
movemont? did I miss something here? >>
If it's an RV-6 the answers seem to be yes and yes, at least they were in my
case.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Question... |
<< For anyone who wishes to use it, we have a tip speed calculator at
http://www.sensenich.com/engineer/tipspeed.htm
Your browser must use Active X controls (sorry to everyone else, we only
know Visual Basic) and I assure you that it is safe. We wrote it ourselves.
It is set up to use our prop models so you would use the 74DM for your
example.
Ed Zercher >>
Hey, Ed, have you given up hope of removing the 2600 rpm limitation on the
RV-6 150 hp propeller? I remember hearing that with better instrumentation
there might be some forthcoming test data more to your liking.
Hope springs eternal...!
Bill Boyd
O-320 -E2D / Sensenich FP aluminum prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length |
David: I have a quick build 8 and I had the same problem. Even though the
dimensions are on the plans, when I talked to Tom at Van's I was told that all
the push rod dimensions are just "suggested lengths" and that because of small
differences in the construction of each and everyone one of Van's kits there are
no two exactly alike. Like snowflakes. Moral of the story, if it's a push rod
then make one end and measure for the next no matter where it goes.
- Jim
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 ( Sensenich 85 )
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
| Subject: | 35 new air-to-air RV images by Ed Hicks (taken during Homecoming |
2000) now online in wallpaper sizes.
"Reeves, Doug"
STOP THE PRESSES!!!
Yesterday I received a package from Ed Hicks containing copies of the
photographs he took at Van's homecoming this year. I spent my lunch hour
today scanning them and just now uploaded them to the World Wide Wing site.
They are unbelievable. Please tell your friends that may not be on the
rv-list about Ed's pictures, as they are sure to enjoy them.
Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansairforce.net
www.metronet.com/~dreeves/vaf.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Caps Engraved |
>Go to the bottom of the page to see them. I am very pleased with the service
>and quick turn around time Steve gave me. I will definitely be giving him a
I second that!
I just got mine back too. Boy do they look good. Probably the only
professional thing on my airframe ;-)
- Jim
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: 35 new air-to-air RV images by Ed Hicks (taken |
during Homecoming 2000) now online in wallpaper sizes.
Gee Doug, I count 12 out 14 pictures of 6s. While that is one fine looking
airplane, by the serial number count that I see there must be about 1000 RV-8
kits out there being built or flying. From these pictures it's really hard to
tell that Van's even sells an 8. What's the deal? Doesn't Ed like the 8-)
- Jim
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6captain(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | EXHAUST SYSTEM KIT FOR SALE 0-320 |
I have a crossover exhaust system kit (needs to be welded together).
It is for lyc.0-320 . It is stainless steel and has all of the parts to make
a complete exhaust system. I just bought a system from Vans for A lot of
money.......
I'd like to get at least $200.00 for it and I'll pay the shipping in the US.
E-mail me at southernaero(at)home.com with any questions.
Thanks,
Eli Lewis
RV-6 (just painted, final assembly :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Weyant <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 35 new air-to-air RV images by Ed Hicks (taken during |
Homecoming 2000) now online in wallpaper sizes.
"Reeves, Doug" wrote:
> - I spent my lunch hour
> today scanning them and just now uploaded them to the World Wide Wing site.
Hey Doug, how do I get to the WWW site? Gotta an address or what?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | KX-125 & KT-76A info |
Hi,
I'm trying to figure out how much room I need to mount the KX-125. My first
choice for Nav/Com. I saw that the overall length was 10.16" according to
the King website. How much room do I need for the connectors? Has anybody
else put one in the RV-8 yet? Same questions for the KT-76a txpndr? Also if
installed where on the panel?
Thanks,
Ed Perry
RV-8QB O-360/CS
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length |
Van's Support,
Scott apparently didn't know the info in attached e-mail, so he and I agreed
I'd put the question to the RV-list. Several responses indicate this is a
common problem and the one I am forwarding here gets pretty specific about
another builder support person explaining it the way it is.
Do you folks ever write down problems to see if there is a "trend"? Do you
pass on stuff like this to all the builder support phone folks? Has this
ever been sent out as a "change to plans" and/or as a notice to current
builders? If you find other things that are wrong in the plans and manual,
can I expect to received a mailing to all current builders of that aircraft?
An article in RVator????????? I subscribe to RVator and I have seen
"corrections" or "clarifications" or "tips' to builders in there. But not
very often!!
It is obvious that the only correct sequence to make the elevator pushtubes
is to:
1. Install HS & elevators and drill horns together.
2. Trim HS aft spar flange as needed to get enough down elevator travel
(page 15-) and install or clamp fwd "down" stop.
3. See if can get enough "up" elev - grind aft end of horns if needed.
4. Clamp 1elevator in trail (neutral) and record angle reading (top surface
of mine is about 4 degrees from level).
5. Clamp elev bell crank vertical.
6. With a bolt in the single elev horn, to provide a measuring reference,
hook end of tape measure on back side of bolt (use a very short one and put
washers on so can tighten nut to hold bolt solid so won't wiggle fore & aft
in hole) and measure fwd to back side of a bolt thru top hole of bell crank.
That is the total assembly length you need - between rod end hole
centers, not the length of cut tube.
7. Make the aft push tube with only one rod end.
8. Put jam nut on all the way until it bottoms out on rod end body, screw
male rod end into tube's female VA-xxx - count number of turns from just
snagging threads until bottomed out with jam nut hitting VA-xxx - mine is 28
turns, so 14 is halfway out. I want at least 4 threads if jam nut ever
comes loose and tube rotates and tries to unthread from rod end. So, screw
rod end in 16 turns, leaving 12 for tube to unthread. When later done to
other end, that will allow only (16 minus 12 on one = 4 threads) and 16
plus 12 = 28 - bottomed out - on other end.
9. With rod end in 16 turns, measure from end of tube's cut end to center
of rod hole.
10. Take total hole-to-hole length measured in 6 above, subtract 2 times
the rod end-from-end-of-tube distance in 9) above, giving the length to cut
the elev tube to.
11. Install the other VA-xxx and rod end, with rod end in 16 turns.
12. Install tube between elev horns and on top of bell crank and verify the
bell crank is vertical with elev still clamped neutral.
13. Now fabricate fwd push tube with one rod end.
14. Put jam nut on male end of VA-xxx sticking out of tube, then thread rod
end all the way on and then off to measure how many turns to disengage -
mine was 17 3/4, i.e., 18 turns.
15. Again, I want 4 threads if tube rotates max bad, so thread rod end on
11 turns, leaving 7 for adjustment and/or for tube to rotate and bottom out.
If it rotates 7 from starting point of 11 (assuming no slight adjustments),
then there will be 4 threads left.
16. Measure from center of hole in rod end to cut end of tube.
17. Put blocks in front of stick with an elastic tie down strap from
rudders or other structure around stick to hold it fwd at your choice of
zero or 5 degrees fwd of vertical.
18. Put a bolt through center/lower clevis of stick assembly where push
tube will eventually go, hook tape measure on front of bolt, and measure
back to front of a bolt through lower hole of bell crank. This is the total
length required.
19. Length to cut push tube = that measured in 9) above minus 2 times that
measured in 16 above. Cut and install 2nd rod end.
20. Verify that bell crank is vertical when stick is at zero to 5 degrees
fwd (your choice). Make slight adjustment of rod end at bell crank as
needed.
Now, will you change the Builder's Manual to reflect same guidance as for
aileron push tubes - "ignore the length called out in drawing - it is only
for the kit makers to know how much to give you - and cut to fit" and
"Here's how to measure how long to cut." (and publish something similar to
what I provided above?
What other surprises await me that haven't made it into the RVator or
advisory letters? Surprises aren't necessarily all that bad (learning
experience), but wasting time for no good reason bothers me - and
potentially 500 other current qb kit builders and the many who will follow.
Can't you folks keep track of this stuff and keep a little word processor
file that you add to that you can periodically print and mail to builders.
Better yet, you have a web site - just post the document on the web and let
us check it at our pleasure - it will be up to date and you won't be out any
postage. Call it "Builder Support - clarifications and tips plus
corrections and notice of newer parts available". Yes, an empennage part
had been made wrong, per erroneous drawing, since day one and only after I
provided different measurements did I get a complementary free part that had
been made several months before - but I had never received a drawing update
(it was updated) or notice in the RVator that the part and revised drawing
were available.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length
>
>
> David: I have a quick build 8 and I had the same problem. Even though the
> dimensions are on the plans, when I talked to Tom at Van's I was told that
all
> the push rod dimensions are just "suggested lengths" and that because of
small
> differences in the construction of each and everyone one of Van's kits
there are
> no two exactly alike. Like snowflakes. Moral of the story, if it's a
push rod
> then make one end and measure for the next no matter where it goes.
>
> - Jim
> RV-8A ( FWF )
> O-360 ( Sensenich 85 )
> N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"RV-8-List (E-mail)"
| Subject: | RV-8 Wing Kit wanted |
Hi listers,
Still have to scrape up some cash (two kids in college) but thought I better
start looking for a wing kit (RV-8) preferably not started. Winter is a
coming, enjoy this weather while you can.
Thanks!
Jack Textor
Elevators RV-8
Des Moines, IA
515-243-7687 wk
pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sunfire Paint |
Thanks to all who answered.
Bruce
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> What's been the experience with Sherwin Williams Sunfire paint? The shop I'm
> looking at to paint my GIII (if it ever gets done ;)) is pushing this paint
> system.
>
> Bruce
> Glasair III
> Hanging engine
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Tip Up Instrument Panel |
To those you out there with a RV-6 Tip Up canopies, I have a question.
Did you use the templete shown on the plans to make you instrument panel? If so,
were you happy with the fit?
Or did you wait until the canopy frame was on to trim right up to the bottom of
the bow?
I'm starting to work on the tip up version of my Composite Instrument Panel (shameless
plug) and would like to know if you would like to trim the panel shape
yourself, or have a flange molded in, and have a shape just like the plans show.
I guess the other possibility is to have the flange a seperate part that
you could bond on in the spot you'd like.
(Hmmm. I can smell the smoke from the wheels turning in my head).
Please respond to directly to me at:
owens(at)aerovironment.com
Thanks,
Laird RV-6
http://www.planes-wings-things.com/rv-6_panel.htm
(another shamless plug!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length |
David,
A point well taken.I agree, Vans could do a better job in this area, but
I would suspect it to constantly monitor and keep track of this info
would require more personel.
Translated- increase in kit prices.
I suggest that we do it ourselves through perhaps at
Http://www.vansairforece.net.
We have formed a local e-group as a subset of this site.
Peter Laurence
David Carter wrote:
>
>
>
> What other surprises await me that haven't made it into the RVator or
> advisory letters? Surprises aren't necessarily all that bad (learning
> experience), but wasting time for no good reason bothers me - and
> potentially 500 other current qb kit builders and the many who will follow.
> Can't you folks keep track of this stuff and keep a little word processor
> file that you add to that you can periodically print and mail to builders.
> Better yet, you have a web site - just post the document on the web and let
> us check it at our pleasure - it will be up to date and you won't be out any
> postage. Call it "Builder Support - clarifications and tips plus
> corrections and notice of newer parts available". Yes, an empennage part
> had been made wrong, per erroneous drawing, since day one and only after I
> provided different measurements did I get a complementary free part that had
> been made several months before - but I had never received a drawing update
> (it was updated) or notice in the RVator that the part and revised drawing
> were available.
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 1:28 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length
>
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
"'Peter laurence'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length |
"Reeves, Doug"
Hi guys.
The ability for users to post tips all by themselves has been setup (thanks
David/Peter for the suggestion).
There are eGroups already setup for each model. I've created a folder in
the 'Files' section of each in order to place tips and stuff (like suggested
below).
Here's all you do to view/add tips:
1. Go to http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/RV_egroups.htm.
2. Simply go into the eGroup specific to your model of your interest,
3. click on 'Files' (you'll need to join the egroup to add to the site)
4. click on 'Tips, Tricks'.
5. click on 'Add Text File' and follow prompts.
ANYONE can add ANY tip at ANY time. When everyone pitches in just a little,
it gets real good for everyone.
Hope this helps,
Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
http://www.vansairforce.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter laurence [mailto:plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 5:25 PM
A point well taken.I agree, Vans could do a better job in this area, but
I would suspect it to constantly monitor and keep track of this info
would require more personel.
Translated- increase in kit prices.
I suggest that we do it ourselves through perhaps at
Http://www.vansairforce.net.
We have formed a local e-group as a subset of this site.
Peter Laurence
David Carter wrote:
> What other surprises await me that haven't made it into the RVator or
> advisory letters? Surprises aren't necessarily all that bad (learning
> experience), but wasting time for no good reason bothers me - and
> potentially 500 other current qb kit builders and the many who will
follow.
> Can't you folks keep track of this stuff and keep a little word processor
> file that you add to that you can periodically print and mail to builders.
> Better yet, you have a web site - just post the document on the web and
let
> us check it at our pleasure - it will be up to date and you won't be out
any
> postage. Call it "Builder Support - clarifications and tips plus
> corrections and notice of newer parts available". Yes, an empennage part
> had been made wrong, per erroneous drawing, since day one and only after I
> provided different measurements did I get a complementary free part that
had
> been made several months before - but I had never received a drawing
update
> (it was updated) or notice in the RVator that the part and revised drawing
> were available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 35 new air-to-air RV images by Ed Hicks (taken |
during Homecoming 2000) now online in wallpaper sizes.
Jim and others,
Due to the rainy weather, there was a very low turnout of aircraft at Van's
Homecoming. On Saturday, I counted about 30, perhaps 35 aircraft. Most of them
were RV-6/6A's. There were also a smaller number of RV-4's. But I only saw one
customer-built RV-8 all day on Saturday, and it didn't stay long. So I'm sure
that's why Ed Hicks is lacking in RV-8 photos this time - there just weren't any
8's there.
George True
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> Gee Doug, I count 12 out 14 pictures of 6s. While that is one fine looking
> airplane, by the serial number count that I see there must be about 1000 RV-8
> kits out there being built or flying. From these pictures it's really hard to
> tell that Van's even sells an 8. What's the deal? Doesn't Ed like the 8-)
>
> - Jim
> RV-8A ( FWF )
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary & Tena Strong" <gstrong(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Narco AT-150 Transponder Installation |
If you turn the knob to the test position and the light comes on, then the
internal circuitry is working correctly.
Gary Strong, RV6-QB - working on rudders/brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Question... |
In a message dated 9/13/00 11:53:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ez(at)sensenich.com writes:
>
> Ed Zercher
Ed,
You talked about retesting the O-320 prop this fall. Is that still an active
program?
Bernie Kerr, 6A with 80 inch Sensenich and I still overspeed at 9,500 feet
pressure altitude.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Need a Skytec Starter |
Hi Listers.
My boat anchor Prestolite starter is not getting the job done, and I would
like a Skytec to replace it. I thought that before I order new and brave
the US$ - Cdn$ exchange rate I would ask the list if anyone has a used one
they would like to sell. Sorry for using the list for this, and anyone
replying please reply off list.
Thanks
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Fun with the FAA |
FYI
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <HWatson712(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Fun with the FAA
> I'm not "Old Bob," but everyone has one -- opinions that is.
>
> I have decided the easiest thing when VFR is to just take off and request
> flight following from the nearest ATC facility -- DFW regional on
departure,
> or if they are busy, Ft Worth Center. You get much better service should
> something go wrong than just giving position reports. Obviously, should
you
> lose the radio or go catastrophic before you could yell or hit 7700, it is
> possible they wouldn't come looking. But, I will take my chances while on
> radar, talking to the system, and getting all of the service without the
> hassle.
>
> BTW -- my wife got a similar short scare when I had asked the Ft Worth FSS
to
> call her to tell her I was running late. They explained everything, but
it
> took them about a half minute to get past "This is the FAA calling about
> N158BJ ..........." I appreciated the call, but she got a heart check
> without going on the treadmill.
>
> Hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | New Airpath compass for sale |
I have a 2.25" panel mount Airpath compass for sale, 14v lighted, C2300L4.
Nice unit.
Brand new, bought in August 2000, sell for $75 plus shipping. (New price
A/C Spruce $104)
Alex Peterson
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
Funny you should ask. I borrowed one from my friendly IA, and guess what?
It won't fit! I ended up making my own anyway. Now I don't have to try to
return the "real" one.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 10:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Installing vacuum pump
>
> You've spent $2000 + on tools building a great airplane. Why not buy the
> proper tool
> and add it to your collection. It sounds expensive for a tool you'll only
> use a few
> times over the course of owning the aircraft, but how many of you have
sold
> the tools you used to build with??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
Thanks for all the replies to my vacuum wrench query. Apparently a lot of
folks are familiar with this. I ended up making two wrenches. One box end
with a slot worked great on the three "easy" nuts. The lower left nut from
hell required some work. I tried bending an open end 90 degrees, but there
wasn't enough room for even a tight radius bend to get in there. I ended up
cutting the end off and welding it on to the arm at 90 degrees then grinding
until there wasn't much left and was finally able to get it in there and get
enough rotation to get to the next flat. Criminey.
However, I have some oil seepage coming from the bottom of the pump pad. I
notice that Lycoming recommends 95 in/lb for 1/4" nuts. Obviously I can't
get a torque wrench in there, but I think I'm in the ball park. I just put
the gasket in dry - should I use Permatex or something on it?
Yuck, maybe I should have just gone with electric gyros...
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
>
> I made a simple wrench I've used for years to remove and install vacuum
> pumps. I started with a common combination wrench. I cut a slot in the
> closed end just large enought to clear the threads on the mounting stud.
I
> then cut the handle down to about 3 inches. A Dremel tool makes quick
> work of the cuts. Firm finger pressure on the handle yields the proper
torque.
> It may be necessary to rotate the right mag some for clearance, but you
> won't have to remove it to install the pump.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A drawing error - aileron hinge bracket |
Fellow RV-9A Wing Builders:
For an illustrated version of this post:
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/corrections.html
On drawing 13 the detail for "W-914 exploded iso view" specifies "Flush head
on inboard side". When the aileron is pivoted upward, this results in an
interference between the A-906 outboard attach bracket and the shop head of
the upper rivet. The drawing should say "Flush head on OUTBOARD side".
I fixed this by drilling out the upper rivet (the lower rivet doesn't
interfere) and countersinking the outboard side and then installing a
AN426AD4-7 and squeezing the shop head into the inboard c'sink similar to
the way the trailing edges are done. I asked Van's if this is an acceptable
repair and on 9/13/00 Ken Krueger replied:
"The repair you described in which you 'double-flushed' the rivet in the
aileron hinge bracket is totally acceptable. Thanks for the feedback on the
possible drawing error. I will look into it further and generate a drawing
change if necessary."
If you have not gotten this far with your wings, I would suggest that you
put the flush head on the outboard side for both rivets.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fitting right wing tip
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
In an effort to throw ALL of my money at my airplane, I was curious if
anyone has any real-world info on the Narco Nav 122d all-in-one VOR/ILS
marker beacon unit. Seems like a pretty good price and real compact
compared to all the separate pieces.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator counterbalance question |
If you can sit tight for a day, I have Van's counterweights for both the
.016 and .020 skins in my shop and can supply dimensions. I think you're
right in that the .020 are only about an inch longer, and I seem to
think that there's plenty of room for either.
Will get back to you.
Chris
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> Just last night I mixed up a ounce or two of lead shot and epoxy, removed
> my RV-4 horz. control surface and positioned it such that I could pour the
> lead/epoxy slury into the weight area. YOu may want to go with the standard
> lead and use this method to fine tune the ammount of lead needed. I can
> fine-fine tune the lead ammount by using a 1/2 inch drill and removing lead
> shavings from the orginal block of lead.....once the plane is painted....
>
> VFrazier(at)usi.edu@matronics.com on 09/13/2000 10:01:18 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to VFrazier(at)usi.edu
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> cc:
>
> Subject: RV-List: elevator counterbalance question
>
>
> I am using the 0.020 skins on my RV-4 control surfaces this time around.
> Did any of you RV-4 guys need to increase the size of the area where the
> lead elevator counterbalance goes? Or is the standard size big enough? My
> calculations seem to show that I need the weights to be about an inch
> longer
> than when using the 0.016 skins. It's been too long since I've built a
> stock RV-4 counterbalance and I can't remember how much lead was required
> and if it completely filled the stock counterbalance area.
>
> Thanks,
> Vince
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
In an effort to throw ALL of my money at my airplane, I was curious if
anyone has any real-world info on the Narco Nav 122d all-in-one VOR/ILS
marker beacon unit. Seems like a pretty good price and real compact
compared to all the separate pieces.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
Ed, it seems like a decent unit (working on canopy now) but it not only is
self contained but if you buy the version with a resolver built in it
doubles as an external cdi indicator for your gps (assuming of coarse your
considering one...) install was straight forward but, the paperwork was
second rate...I mean after using the garmin install manuals the narco manual
looked like a second grade science fair project (no offense to the second
graders out there...) that said I was still able to discern what goes
where. I'm happy with my choice .......``btw call john stark avionics for an
awesome price"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
As an Air Traffic Controller, I am not going tojustify what happened,
but just offer a little background information.
First off, when you are receiving flight following from a "Radar"
facility (notice I did not say Flight Watch), we have nothing to do
with FSS and your VFR flight plans. True, to the user it would make
sense that yes, we are talking about the same FAA,,, but it doesn't
work that way in the real world. That's why the pilot is responsible
for closing out VFR flight plans, even at tower controlled airports.
Now IFR is a different matter entirely.
So when you are receiving VFR Flight Following and you wish to amend
your ETA, or provide a position report, the norm is to request a
frequency change for you to contact FSS directly. Occasionally a
pilot will request that we forward that information for them but
personally, I am reluctant to do so. Not because I am lazy, it's just
better in my mind for the pilot to personally communicate that type
of info directly. Sometimes things get a little lost in the
translation and this is one area that this could be dangerous. Sure,
I do make exceptions along the way,,, but as an active pilot myself,
I feel better talking directly with FSS when it comes to amending my
ETA or providing position updates on MY flight plan.
I haven't a clue as to why, if you were talking with Flight Watch,
which is an FSS function,,, why those position reports were not
reflected in your flight plan.
I did notice in your post that you may have mixed and matched some of
the terminology,, (flight watch vs flight following),,, Again, these
are totally different services provided by completely separate
facilities and specialties.
As far as the call sign goes,, I admit at first it looks a little
"strange," but I don't see what all the fuss is about. In fact
personally, after the first call up where we are supposed to use the
entire call sign, the following calls can be abbreviated with three
characters and the type: "Experimental zero-six-zero" which for me,
rolls off of my tongue fairly well. It has a nice ring to it :)
Anyway, I offer the preceding as information only, just my opinions.
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4 N184DA,, 100+ hrs!!!
n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
>Returned home from Albuquerque this morning to find my wife hysterical
>and crying. The FAA had just called 10 minutes earlier and told her I
>was "missing".
>
>What happened is that I had filed a flight plan at 6:30 this morning,
>telling them that I would activate it once enroute, in about an hour,
>which is what I did very close to 7:30 with an acknowledgement from the
>FSS guy. Then I called flight following every 100 miles. The "system"
>knew where I was every step of the way. Well, apparently Flight Watch
>and Flight Service don't talk to each other; this compounded by the
>acknowledged fact that when my plan was activated it was done so as of
>my file time not my activation time. That was acknowledged when I called
>to close the flight plan for the second time. The first time was
>immediately after landing, about 15 minutes BEFORE the called Nancy. So
>on discovering the error, was their any apology? Yeah, right!
>I am glad they were looking for me, but I sure wish the lines of
>communication were a little more practiced.
>
>I had a problem on the way down too, when the flight plan I called in to
>one FSS never made it into the system and I had to repeat it from the
>plane.
>
>I mentioned this to a couple of very experienced pilots. They said they
>no longer file flight plans for just this type of reason, but instead
>just make regular position reports to flight watch. I think I'll start
>doing that too.
>
>
>More fun?
>It seems like the controllers, (almost everyone I spoke to at various
>FSS offices, Flight Watch, Albuquerque approach) don't like my N number.
>I never had this before, but this time at almost every occasion. "What
>kind of number is that?" I really got sick of trying to persuade these
>guys over and over again that "yes my N-number really is
>five-zero-six-zero; that it is the number that they gave me, and that if
>they don't like it, they should have assigned me something else" So for
>now on, my N-number is going to be five-zero-six-oscar. That should end
>that problem.
>
>Anyway, aside from all that, I had a great flight up through the high
>passes and back home to winter park. All the Aspens are turning, there
>is a bit of new snow on the tops, and the air was just like glass. In
>this part of the country, when the air is good, it's as good as it gets.
>
>
>Sorry for the bandwidth, but I had to vent this out. I would be curious
>if this reluctance to use Flight Plans is very widespread.
>
>Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
"Jones, Bryan D." <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
| Subject: | Re: P-Lead Safety |
Bryan,
I am familiar with doing a mag check before shut down, but how do you
do a mag check during preflight?
Ted Lumpkin
-----Original Message-----
From: Jones, Bryan D. <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 7:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: P-Lead Safety
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
>If you're going to be at a fly-in or somewhere with non-airplane people
>around, do a mag check before shutting down. Don't ground both mags while
>under power, or it will probably backfire when you go back to hot.
>Regarding a break in the P-lead... anyone have noise suppression capacitors
>on their mags? I do. That's a break in the P-lead. I don't see where
>using a connector makes the installation overly unsafe. An accident under
>these circumstances would be a double-jeopardy situation and remote.
>Pre-flight mag check should be more than adequate frequency for checking
the
>integrity of the P-leads, continuous or not, IMVHO.
>
>Bryan Jones
>-8 765BJ 55 hrs
>Pearland, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| Subject: | Re: Magneto P-lead Connector |
Bob,
Thanks for the advice. Fortunately, I read your book! I am running all
my radio, intercom and transponder wiring on the right side of my cockpit.
Everything else, including magneto leads is on the left side.
Ted Lumpkin
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magneto P-lead Connector
>>
>> I am using a multi-pin connector for the wiring going to the
>>instrument panel in my RV-4. My magneto switches (toggle) are on the
panel.
>>Does anyone know if there is a way I can run the shielded magneto p-lead
>>wires through a
>>connector without defeating the purpose of the shielding? I have thought
>>about separating the wire and the shielding at the connector and crimping
or
>>soldering the shielding to its own connector pin. I would do the same on
>>the other
>>side of the connector. Would this work?
>
> That's the way to do it. Each shielded wire takes a shield through
> along side the inner conductors on its own pin.
>
> Be aware however that the signals on p-leads are the highest voltage
> and shortest rise-time signals of any wiring other than spark plug
> wires . . . I'd suggest you go ahead and try it but be cognizant of
> interference potential between magneto noise and other systems
> sharing the connector. Let me know how it works out for you!
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Reeves, Doug" <Douglas.Reeves(at)archongroup.com> |
"'Peter laurence'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | RV-6 Quick-build - Elevator push tube length |
"Reeves, Doug"
"Reeves, Doug"
Hi guys.
The ability for users to post tips all by themselves has been setup (thanks
David/Peter for the suggestion).
There are eGroups already setup for each model. I've created a folder in
the 'Files' section of each in order to place tips and stuff (like suggested
below).
Here's all you do to view/add tips:
1. Go to http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/RV_egroups.htm.
2. Simply go into the eGroup specific to your model of your interest,
3. click on 'Files' (you'll need to join the egroup to add to the site)
4. click on 'Tips, Tricks'.
5. click on 'Add Text File' and follow prompts.
ANYONE can add ANY tip at ANY time. When everyone pitches in just a little,
it gets real good for everyone.
Hope this helps,
Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
http://www.vansairforce.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter laurence [mailto:plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 5:25 PM
A point well taken.I agree, Vans could do a better job in this area, but
I would suspect it to constantly monitor and keep track of this info
would require more personel.
Translated- increase in kit prices.
I suggest that we do it ourselves through perhaps at
Http://www.vansairforce.net.
We have formed a local e-group as a subset of this site.
Peter Laurence
David Carter wrote:
> What other surprises await me that haven't made it into the RVator or
> advisory letters? Surprises aren't necessarily all that bad (learning
> experience), but wasting time for no good reason bothers me - and
> potentially 500 other current qb kit builders and the many who will
follow.
> Can't you folks keep track of this stuff and keep a little word processor
> file that you add to that you can periodically print and mail to builders.
> Better yet, you have a web site - just post the document on the web and
let
> us check it at our pleasure - it will be up to date and you won't be out
any
> postage. Call it "Builder Support - clarifications and tips plus
> corrections and notice of newer parts available". Yes, an empennage part
> had been made wrong, per erroneous drawing, since day one and only after I
> provided different measurements did I get a complementary free part that
had
> been made several months before - but I had never received a drawing
update
> (it was updated) or notice in the RVator that the part and revised drawing
> were available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George True <true(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 35 new air-to-air RV images by Ed Hicks (taken |
during Homecoming 2000) now online in wallpaper sizes.
Jim and others,
Due to the rainy weather, there was a very low turnout of aircraft at Van's
Homecoming. On Saturday, I counted about 30, perhaps 35 aircraft. Most of them
were RV-6/6A's. There were also a smaller number of RV-4's. But I only saw one
customer-built RV-8 all day on Saturday, and it didn't stay long. So I'm sure
that's why Ed Hicks is lacking in RV-8 photos this time - there just weren't any
8's there.
George True
Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com wrote:
>
> Gee Doug, I count 12 out 14 pictures of 6s. While that is one fine looking
> airplane, by the serial number count that I see there must be about 1000 RV-8
> kits out there being built or flying. From these pictures it's really hard to
> tell that Van's even sells an 8. What's the deal? Doesn't Ed like the 8-)
>
> - Jim
> RV-8A ( FWF )
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary & Tena Strong" <gstrong(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Narco AT-150 Transponder Installation |
If you turn the knob to the test position and the light comes on, then the
internal circuitry is working correctly.
Gary Strong, RV6-QB - working on rudders/brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Question... |
In a message dated 9/13/00 11:53:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ez(at)sensenich.com writes:
>
> Ed Zercher
Ed,
You talked about retesting the O-320 prop this fall. Is that still an active
program?
Bernie Kerr, 6A with 80 inch Sensenich and I still overspeed at 9,500 feet
pressure altitude.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Need a Skytec Starter |
Hi Listers.
My boat anchor Prestolite starter is not getting the job done, and I would
like a Skytec to replace it. I thought that before I order new and brave
the US$ - Cdn$ exchange rate I would ask the list if anyone has a used one
they would like to sell. Sorry for using the list for this, and anyone
replying please reply off list.
Thanks
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Fun with the FAA |
FYI
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <HWatson712(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Fun with the FAA
> I'm not "Old Bob," but everyone has one -- opinions that is.
>
> I have decided the easiest thing when VFR is to just take off and request
> flight following from the nearest ATC facility -- DFW regional on
departure,
> or if they are busy, Ft Worth Center. You get much better service should
> something go wrong than just giving position reports. Obviously, should
you
> lose the radio or go catastrophic before you could yell or hit 7700, it is
> possible they wouldn't come looking. But, I will take my chances while on
> radar, talking to the system, and getting all of the service without the
> hassle.
>
> BTW -- my wife got a similar short scare when I had asked the Ft Worth FSS
to
> call her to tell her I was running late. They explained everything, but
it
> took them about a half minute to get past "This is the FAA calling about
> N158BJ ..........." I appreciated the call, but she got a heart check
> without going on the treadmill.
>
> Hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | New Airpath compass for sale |
I have a 2.25" panel mount Airpath compass for sale, 14v lighted, C2300L4.
Nice unit.
Brand new, bought in August 2000, sell for $75 plus shipping. (New price
A/C Spruce $104)
Alex Peterson
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
Funny you should ask. I borrowed one from my friendly IA, and guess what?
It won't fit! I ended up making my own anyway. Now I don't have to try to
return the "real" one.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 10:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Installing vacuum pump
>
> You've spent $2000 + on tools building a great airplane. Why not buy the
> proper tool
> and add it to your collection. It sounds expensive for a tool you'll only
> use a few
> times over the course of owning the aircraft, but how many of you have
sold
> the tools you used to build with??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A drawing error - aileron hinge bracket |
Fellow RV-9A Wing Builders:
For an illustrated version of this post:
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/corrections.html
On drawing 13 the detail for "W-914 exploded iso view" specifies "Flush head
on inboard side". When the aileron is pivoted upward, this results in an
interference between the A-906 outboard attach bracket and the shop head of
the upper rivet. The drawing should say "Flush head on OUTBOARD side".
I fixed this by drilling out the upper rivet (the lower rivet doesn't
interfere) and countersinking the outboard side and then installing a
AN426AD4-7 and squeezing the shop head into the inboard c'sink similar to
the way the trailing edges are done. I asked Van's if this is an acceptable
repair and on 9/13/00 Ken Krueger replied:
"The repair you described in which you 'double-flushed' the rivet in the
aileron hinge bracket is totally acceptable. Thanks for the feedback on the
possible drawing error. I will look into it further and generate a drawing
change if necessary."
If you have not gotten this far with your wings, I would suggest that you
put the flush head on the outboard side for both rivets.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
fitting right wing tip
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing vacuum pump |
Thanks for all the replies to my vacuum wrench query. Apparently a lot of
folks are familiar with this. I ended up making two wrenches. One box end
with a slot worked great on the three "easy" nuts. The lower left nut from
hell required some work. I tried bending an open end 90 degrees, but there
wasn't enough room for even a tight radius bend to get in there. I ended up
cutting the end off and welding it on to the arm at 90 degrees then grinding
until there wasn't much left and was finally able to get it in there and get
enough rotation to get to the next flat. Criminey.
However, I have some oil seepage coming from the bottom of the pump pad. I
notice that Lycoming recommends 95 in/lb for 1/4" nuts. Obviously I can't
get a torque wrench in there, but I think I'm in the ball park. I just put
the gasket in dry - should I use Permatex or something on it?
Yuck, maybe I should have just gone with electric gyros...
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
>
> I made a simple wrench I've used for years to remove and install vacuum
> pumps. I started with a common combination wrench. I cut a slot in the
> closed end just large enought to clear the threads on the mounting stud.
I
> then cut the handle down to about 3 inches. A Dremel tool makes quick
> work of the cuts. Firm finger pressure on the handle yields the proper
torque.
> It may be necessary to rotate the right mag some for clearance, but you
> won't have to remove it to install the pump.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
In an effort to throw ALL of my money at my airplane, I was curious if
anyone has any real-world info on the Narco Nav 122d all-in-one VOR/ILS
marker beacon unit. Seems like a pretty good price and real compact
compared to all the separate pieces.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
In an effort to throw ALL of my money at my airplane, I was curious if
anyone has any real-world info on the Narco Nav 122d all-in-one VOR/ILS
marker beacon unit. Seems like a pretty good price and real compact
compared to all the separate pieces.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
Ed, it seems like a decent unit (working on canopy now) but it not only is
self contained but if you buy the version with a resolver built in it
doubles as an external cdi indicator for your gps (assuming of coarse your
considering one...) install was straight forward but, the paperwork was
second rate...I mean after using the garmin install manuals the narco manual
looked like a second grade science fair project (no offense to the second
graders out there...) that said I was still able to discern what goes
where. I'm happy with my choice .......``btw call john stark avionics for an
awesome price"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator counterbalance question |
If you can sit tight for a day, I have Van's counterweights for both the
.016 and .020 skins in my shop and can supply dimensions. I think you're
right in that the .020 are only about an inch longer, and I seem to
think that there's plenty of room for either.
Will get back to you.
Chris
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> Just last night I mixed up a ounce or two of lead shot and epoxy, removed
> my RV-4 horz. control surface and positioned it such that I could pour the
> lead/epoxy slury into the weight area. YOu may want to go with the standard
> lead and use this method to fine tune the ammount of lead needed. I can
> fine-fine tune the lead ammount by using a 1/2 inch drill and removing lead
> shavings from the orginal block of lead.....once the plane is painted....
>
> VFrazier(at)usi.edu@matronics.com on 09/13/2000 10:01:18 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to VFrazier(at)usi.edu
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> cc:
>
> Subject: RV-List: elevator counterbalance question
>
>
> I am using the 0.020 skins on my RV-4 control surfaces this time around.
> Did any of you RV-4 guys need to increase the size of the area where the
> lead elevator counterbalance goes? Or is the standard size big enough? My
> calculations seem to show that I need the weights to be about an inch
> longer
> than when using the 0.016 skins. It's been too long since I've built a
> stock RV-4 counterbalance and I can't remember how much lead was required
> and if it completely filled the stock counterbalance area.
>
> Thanks,
> Vince
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derrick L. Aubuchon" <n184da(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
As an Air Traffic Controller, I am not going tojustify what happened,
but just offer a little background information.
First off, when you are receiving flight following from a "Radar"
facility (notice I did not say Flight Watch), we have nothing to do
with FSS and your VFR flight plans. True, to the user it would make
sense that yes, we are talking about the same FAA,,, but it doesn't
work that way in the real world. That's why the pilot is responsible
for closing out VFR flight plans, even at tower controlled airports.
Now IFR is a different matter entirely.
So when you are receiving VFR Flight Following and you wish to amend
your ETA, or provide a position report, the norm is to request a
frequency change for you to contact FSS directly. Occasionally a
pilot will request that we forward that information for them but
personally, I am reluctant to do so. Not because I am lazy, it's just
better in my mind for the pilot to personally communicate that type
of info directly. Sometimes things get a little lost in the
translation and this is one area that this could be dangerous. Sure,
I do make exceptions along the way,,, but as an active pilot myself,
I feel better talking directly with FSS when it comes to amending my
ETA or providing position updates on MY flight plan.
I haven't a clue as to why, if you were talking with Flight Watch,
which is an FSS function,,, why those position reports were not
reflected in your flight plan.
I did notice in your post that you may have mixed and matched some of
the terminology,, (flight watch vs flight following),,, Again, these
are totally different services provided by completely separate
facilities and specialties.
As far as the call sign goes,, I admit at first it looks a little
"strange," but I don't see what all the fuss is about. In fact
personally, after the first call up where we are supposed to use the
entire call sign, the following calls can be abbreviated with three
characters and the type: "Experimental zero-six-zero" which for me,
rolls off of my tongue fairly well. It has a nice ring to it :)
Anyway, I offer the preceding as information only, just my opinions.
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4 N184DA,, 100+ hrs!!!
n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
>Returned home from Albuquerque this morning to find my wife hysterical
>and crying. The FAA had just called 10 minutes earlier and told her I
>was "missing".
>
>What happened is that I had filed a flight plan at 6:30 this morning,
>telling them that I would activate it once enroute, in about an hour,
>which is what I did very close to 7:30 with an acknowledgement from the
>FSS guy. Then I called flight following every 100 miles. The "system"
>knew where I was every step of the way. Well, apparently Flight Watch
>and Flight Service don't talk to each other; this compounded by the
>acknowledged fact that when my plan was activated it was done so as of
>my file time not my activation time. That was acknowledged when I called
>to close the flight plan for the second time. The first time was
>immediately after landing, about 15 minutes BEFORE the called Nancy. So
>on discovering the error, was their any apology? Yeah, right!
>I am glad they were looking for me, but I sure wish the lines of
>communication were a little more practiced.
>
>I had a problem on the way down too, when the flight plan I called in to
>one FSS never made it into the system and I had to repeat it from the
>plane.
>
>I mentioned this to a couple of very experienced pilots. They said they
>no longer file flight plans for just this type of reason, but instead
>just make regular position reports to flight watch. I think I'll start
>doing that too.
>
>
>More fun?
>It seems like the controllers, (almost everyone I spoke to at various
>FSS offices, Flight Watch, Albuquerque approach) don't like my N number.
>I never had this before, but this time at almost every occasion. "What
>kind of number is that?" I really got sick of trying to persuade these
>guys over and over again that "yes my N-number really is
>five-zero-six-zero; that it is the number that they gave me, and that if
>they don't like it, they should have assigned me something else" So for
>now on, my N-number is going to be five-zero-six-oscar. That should end
>that problem.
>
>Anyway, aside from all that, I had a great flight up through the high
>passes and back home to winter park. All the Aspens are turning, there
>is a bit of new snow on the tops, and the air was just like glass. In
>this part of the country, when the air is good, it's as good as it gets.
>
>
>Sorry for the bandwidth, but I had to vent this out. I would be curious
>if this reluctance to use Flight Plans is very widespread.
>
>Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: P-Lead Safety |
Bryan,
I am familiar with doing a mag check before shut down, but how do you
do a mag check during preflight?
Ted Lumpkin
-----Original Message-----
From: Jones, Bryan D. <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 7:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: P-Lead Safety
<bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
>If you're going to be at a fly-in or somewhere with non-airplane people
>around, do a mag check before shutting down. Don't ground both mags while
>under power, or it will probably backfire when you go back to hot.
>Regarding a break in the P-lead... anyone have noise suppression capacitors
>on their mags? I do. That's a break in the P-lead. I don't see where
>using a connector makes the installation overly unsafe. An accident under
>these circumstances would be a double-jeopardy situation and remote.
>Pre-flight mag check should be more than adequate frequency for checking
the
>integrity of the P-leads, continuous or not, IMVHO.
>
>Bryan Jones
>-8 765BJ 55 hrs
>Pearland, Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto P-lead Connector |
Bob,
Thanks for the advice. Fortunately, I read your book! I am running all
my radio, intercom and transponder wiring on the right side of my cockpit.
Everything else, including magneto leads is on the left side.
Ted Lumpkin
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Magneto P-lead Connector
>>
>> I am using a multi-pin connector for the wiring going to the
>>instrument panel in my RV-4. My magneto switches (toggle) are on the
panel.
>>Does anyone know if there is a way I can run the shielded magneto p-lead
>>wires through a
>>connector without defeating the purpose of the shielding? I have thought
>>about separating the wire and the shielding at the connector and crimping
or
>>soldering the shielding to its own connector pin. I would do the same on
>>the other
>>side of the connector. Would this work?
>
> That's the way to do it. Each shielded wire takes a shield through
> along side the inner conductors on its own pin.
>
> Be aware however that the signals on p-leads are the highest voltage
> and shortest rise-time signals of any wiring other than spark plug
> wires . . . I'd suggest you go ahead and try it but be cognizant of
> interference potential between magneto noise and other systems
> sharing the connector. Let me know how it works out for you!
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 35 new air-to-air RV images by Ed Hicks (taken during |
Homecoming 2000) now online in wallpaper sizes.
Jim:
Ed was only taking photos of airplanes that would pay
him $50 to take the photos. Maybe the RV-8(A) guys
would not cough up the money. ;-)
Gary
> Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com
>
>
> Gee Doug, I count 12 out 14 pictures of 6s. While
> that is one fine looking
> airplane, by the serial number count that I see
> there must be about 1000 RV-8
> kits out there being built or flying. From these
> pictures it's really hard to
> tell that Van's even sells an 8. What's the deal?
> Doesn't Ed like the 8-)
>
> - Jim
> RV-8A ( FWF )
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Caps Engraved |
Yes please mail to address you have which should be 106A E. Pike Street,
Cynthiana, KY 41031. The computations starred were for my individual
weight. Aero sport advised they did comply with the ADs on the engine.
Is there any chance I could get a field 337? My reasoning is that I have a
certifiable engine in an airworthy airframe of a type very popular and for
which the basic flight data has been established with only variations
particular to the individual aircraft. The reason for the flight hours and
restricted area is to establish the safe parameter of the operation and
airworthines. How would I go about trying for the field 337?
Looking forward to the paperwork regardless, to get my craft into the air
and enjoy the fruits of my labor. Best Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Caps Engraved
>
>
>>Go to the bottom of the page to see them. I am very pleased with the
service
>>and quick turn around time Steve gave me. I will definitely be giving him
a
>
>
>I second that!
>
>I just got mine back too. Boy do they look good. Probably the only
>professional thing on my airframe ;-)
>
>- Jim
>RV-8A ( FWF )
>O-360 Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV List: 35 new air-to-air Homecoming pictures by Ed |
Hicks
Listers,
Jim Andrews wrote:
>>I count 12 out 14 pictures of 6s.... From these pictures it's really hard
to tell that Van's even sells an 8. What's the deal? Doesn't Ed like the
8-)<<
Despite being a -6 builder, when they are in front of my lens I treat all
RV's equally. I would have liked to have photographed an RV-8 but I only
saw two (one US, one Canadian) of them during the Homecoming. Hey, I even
went looking for the owner of the Canadian -8 as I thought it would make a
really good subject, but I couldn't find him.
There were RV-8's that I was expecting to photograph (Brian Denk was one of
them), but didn't make it, I guess because of the weather.
On the flip side, I did shoot 100% of the attending customer-built RV-8A's.
Yes, there was only the red and black example built by Steve Johanson of
Salem OR.
I'll be back next year, and would like to shoot a few more 8's/8A's.
Anyway, glad you all liked the pictures.
Best wishes,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB 3808 Getting over jet-lag....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hicks <EdHicks(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV List: 35 new air-to-air Homecoming images by Ed Hicks. |
Listers,
Gary Sobek wrote:
>>Ed was only taking photos of airplanes that would pay him $50 to take the
photos. Maybe the RV-8(A) guys would not cough up the money. ;-)<<
I'm sure you didn't mean any harm, but just in case you've given people the
impression that my Homecoming photography work will pay for a instrument
panel full of electrical goodies, I would point out that the $50 per RV
only just covered all the material costs- fuel for camera plane, film and
processing. My pilot's time and my own were free.
No other type of airplane except RV's will cause me to loose my powers of
logical commercial thought (I am trying to do this photography thing as a
career :-) ) , therefore I would like to think that RV owners got what I
hope is a good deal on their pictures.
Best wishes,
Ed Hicks.
RV-6 QB 3808.
Bristol UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip Up Instrument Panel |
"lothar klingmuller"
Laird, you would get a much better fit cutting the instrument panel AFTER
the conopy frame has been fitted. I did cut my panel per plan and it turns
to be a little short around the upper curvature sides. A fellow builder did
the same some 6 +/- years ago and was also short.
The lower flange and upper angle are there for stiffening the panel. I
would use whatever is the easiest to fabricate and still be structural
sound.
Good luck, Lothar
-----Original Message-----
>Did you use the templete shown on the plans to make you instrument panel?
If so, were you happy with the fit?
>Or did you wait until the canopy frame was on to trim right up to the
bottom of the bow?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>
clip
>
>I haven't a clue as to why, if you were talking with Flight Watch,
>which is an FSS function,,, why those position reports were not
>reflected in your flight plan.
As a former flight service specialist I can clarify further. Any
position report whether to a regular flight service frequency or flight
watch (or, obviously with center flight following) does nothing to the
flight plan. The only time it would have any effect is after someone is
overdue and a search is started. One of the first parts of the search is
to search the paperwork, which is when any position reports would be used
to at least see how far the flight got. The absolute first thing is
usually to call the destination airport to see if the plane is there.
The flight service serving the destination would not have the flight plan
at all unless the flight plan also happened to be filed with that
station. They only have the plane number and type and eta (unless things
have changed). If the plane becomes overdue they will, at some point,
get all the flight plan information from the station where it was filed.
As Derrick has stated, if you want to amend your flight plan in any way,
you need to call flight service.
I avoid filing VFR flight plans myself now, for reasons other than these.
It is too bad how the FAA has gone.
>
>I did notice in your post that you may have mixed and matched some of
>the terminology,, (flight watch vs flight following),,, Again, these
>are totally different services provided by completely separate
>facilities and specialties.
>
>As far as the call sign goes,, I admit at first it looks a little
>"strange," but I don't see what all the fuss is about. In fact
>personally, after the first call up where we are supposed to use the
>entire call sign, the following calls can be abbreviated with three
>characters and the type: "Experimental zero-six-zero" which for me,
>rolls off of my tongue fairly well. It has a nice ring to it :)
>
>Anyway, I offer the preceding as information only, just my opinions.
>
>Derrick L. Aubuchon
>
>RV-4 N184DA,, 100+ hrs!!!
>n184da(at)pacbell.net
>
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying (to La Verne, CA this weekend)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
--- "Derrick L. Aubuchon" wrote:
> As an Air Traffic Controller, I am not going tojustify what happened,
>
> but just offer a little background information.
You know, seems all this kind of thing could be alleviated by the cell
phone companies figuring out how we can use cells in the air vice
buying expensive equipment from one or two companies _and_ buying their
extremely expensive service to phone home from the air.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Tip Up Instrument Panel |
Lard: what I did was to fit the canopy first and then I used a piece of
masonite I had laying arround the shop and made a templete of the instrument
panel. It made for a good fit and allowed me to tape on pictures of
instruments- sit in the plane and make airplane noises. It worked for me.
Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Truly dead engine |
Re: as long as it's at idle cutoff, it shouldn't start should it?
I have a carbureted 0-320 and had an interesting thing happen to me about a
month ago. After flying I always top off my tanks to minimize condensation.
I pulled the plane up to the pumps and shut down the engine properly.
Upon finishing fueling, I went through my normal startup sequence without
using a checklist. I was just taxiing to my hangar, no harm. I turned on
the master, ignition toggles, and hit the starter. The engine fired and ran
for about 2 seconds then died. I had failed to move the mixture from idle
cut off. But it still ran, not for long, but long enough to remove an arm,
or head.
If I had a faulty ignition ground, that engine would be ready to go. I
don't know why this happened. I have not tried to duplicate it. Just a
heads up.
I guess props are like guns, always treat them like they are loaded, and
don't point them at anything you don't want to hit.
Don Mei
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto P-lead Connector |
In a message dated 9/13/00 11:30:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tlump(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< Everything else, including magneto leads is on the left side. >>
Hi Ted:
I've been lurking and reading the thread on your question about the P leads.
There are 2 How To's for grounding shielded cable on the old AMR site that
might be of interest to you. The URLs are AAMR/AirCore/ P Mag
Leads and AAMR/
AirCore/ P Mag Leads or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page93.html and
http://members.aol.com/aamreelectr/index6.html
We will be handling this product on our site, which will be up soon.
Captn' Jack Crawford @ Terminal Town
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:RVator newsletter |
09/14/2000 10:02:08 AM
I can't recall when I got my last issue........IS anyone else receiving it
or has the move at Vans curtailed this activity ??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto P-lead Connector |
In a message dated 9/14/00 7:38:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Terminaltown(at)AOL.COM writes:
There are 2 How To's for grounding shielded cable on the old AMR site that
might be of interest to you. The URLs are AAMR/AirCore/ P Mag
Leads or http://members.aol.com/aamrelectr/Page93.html and
http://members.aol.com/aamreelectr/index6.html Try this one too...sorry fat
fingers this morning...put the same URL Link in twice AAMR/AirCore/ Ground
Shields
Captn' Jack Crawford @ Terminal Town
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Truly dead engine |
"skybolt-aviator"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 9:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Truly dead engine
>
> Re: as long as it's at idle cutoff, it shouldn't start should it?
>
I had a fuel injected Cardinal RG before we got the 6A and I always shut it
down with mixture and started when hot by just cracking throttle and not
touching mixture (full lean) or prime.Just about always started. STAY AWAY
FROM PROPS!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RE Miller <rmill2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
--- Larry Pardue wrote:
> I avoid filing VFR flight plans myself now, for
> reasons other than these.
> It is too bad how the FAA has gone.
I too had come into the habit of not filing flight
plans as twice I was chewed-out over the phone for not
closing when in fact I had closed the plan. The
hassle was simply not worth it, until OSH 1998.
We were a flight of two Grummans with some close
(albeit inexperienced) friends returning from OSH to
CA. We became separated and the other plane never
showed at the first fuel stop. Our final destination
was altered because of weather (nasty afternoon
T-cells) and the others were nowhere to be found. By
10 pm we were sick with worry as they had not phoned
home. The FAA did a paperwork/communications search
and after 4 hours tracked them down. They had become
disorientated and had been crisscrossing a large
portion of Wyoming and South Dakota until they came
across a small airport in the middle of nowhere.
Lesson learned: Open communications and flight plans
could have prevented a great deal of upset on
everyone's behalf.
Rob Miller
80153 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Fun with the FAA |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
True. But I carry my cell phone with me anyway. I will not hesitate to use
it in the interest of safety. Legal or not.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE
Network Adminstrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
"Fear of failure is only for the weak and arrogant,
for those who foolishly think that somehow they
can achieve success without paying the price."
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thompson [mailto:grobdriver(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 6:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fun with the FAA
--- "Derrick L. Aubuchon" wrote:
> As an Air Traffic Controller, I am not going tojustify what happened,
>
> but just offer a little background information.
You know, seems all this kind of thing could be alleviated by the cell
phone companies figuring out how we can use cells in the air vice
buying expensive equipment from one or two companies _and_ buying their
extremely expensive service to phone home from the air.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Browne <cebrowne(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Truly dead engine |
The O-470 Continental will start with the mixture control in idle cutoff. In
fact, that is part of the normal hot start procedure.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
Donald Mei wrote:
> Re: as long as it's at idle cutoff, it shouldn't start should it?
>
> I...
>
> I guess props are like guns, always treat them like they are loaded, and
> don't point them at anything you don't want to hit.
>
> Don Mei
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>That is why there was a gap between putting the new battery in and putting
>the battery in a box. I didn't think there was a problem but then an A&P
>came to look over my plane for possible buying, he said that it was
>dangerous not to have a box. A&P, IA's are the experts.
>>Batteries have been known to explode so I would recommend some kind of
>>secondary containment for safety regardless if it is an RG, flooded cell or
>>whatever.
Battery boxes have NEVER been designed to contain an exploding
battery . . . in fact, battery boxes have been DEMONSTRATED
to make an explosion more likely if not more violent.
Real life case in point:
Amateur built airplane, all composite, very nice composite
battery box glassed right into the passenger seat back.
Alternator goes into OV. No annunciation of OV condition
and battery begins to outgas. In the course of "troublshooting"
the system, a few switches get thrown, one of which is
the battery master contactor control switch. Battery contactor
INSIDE the box with the battery ignites ideal mixture and
blows up battery box.
No flight-safety damage to aircraft but the pilot's underwear
was seriously compromised.
What's the physics of this event? To have an explosion you
must have three conditions. (1) A source of FUEL that's mixed
in proportions to produce rapid combustion. Too much fuel/
oxygen, no explosion; too little fuel/oxygen, no explosion.
Cook a battery and you disassociate water H20 into H2 and
O2 in ratios ideal for recombination in spectacular manner.
(2) CONTAINMENT in this case was the nicely crafted battery
box. Without containment, gunpowder simply burns. Wrap it
up in rolls of newspaper and you have a firecracker. Finally,
(3) IGNITION provided by the battery contactor located inside
the battery box.
LOTS of things could be done to break the chain of events
that could have been much more serious . . .
(1) Proper ov protection on the airplane's electrical system.
(2) No battery box . . . let the vented gasses waft away
in the breeze.
(3) Don't mount electrical equipment inside the battery box
along with the battery.
(4) Adequate instrumentation on the electrical system to
KNOW what's happening when stuff starts to misbehave and
adequate UDERSTANDING of the system to do the right things
about it.
By the way, the BIG guys don't have battery boxes either.
The battery on a bizjet comes with a nice connector on the
side. You drop the critter into a tray, strap it down
and plug it in. None the less, there are documented cases
of an RG battery blowing up when a poorly welded inter-cell
connector burned off . . . needless to say, a redesign and
modification to the assembly process was accomplished in
a hurry.
Not one government-approved airplane-banger in ten
understands or can explain what you've just read.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Sensenich 13 inch spinner cut out template |
Listers,
Sensenich has just put out a template for 13 inch spinners. You can reach this
at:
http://www.sensenich.com/new/72fmcut.htm
This good for all RV-8(A)s that use the Van's 13 inch stock spinner with a 72FM
series prop. If you don't think you need this then you need to read the page
and a half of install instructions that come with the spinner. There is more
verbiage about installing the spinner than the installing the entire cowl!
Enjoy,
- Jim
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Thu,
14 Sep 2000 11:11:17.-0400(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: RV List: 35 new air-to-air Homecoming images by |
Ed Hicks.
14 Sep 2000 11:11:17.-0400(at)matronics.com
Ed, given the quality of your work, we ALL got a good deal. Sure glad you are an
RV fan, I thank you and my wallpaper thanks you.
Eric Henson
Edward Hicks on 09/14/2000 09:18:28 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Edward Hicks
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV List: 35 new air-to-air Homecoming images by Ed Hicks.
Listers,
>>>, therefore I would like to think that RV owners got what I
hope is a good deal on their pictures.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: P-Lead Safety |
It's not really during the walk-around preflight but during the engine
run-up just before take-off. Obviously, the engine has to be running at
the proper rpm. Unless you're checking for an ungrounded
p-lead;)--let's see, I had 10 fingers when I started this preflight!
>
>
> Bryan,
>
> I am familiar with doing a mag check before shut down, but how do you
> do a mag check during preflight?
>
> Ted Lumpkin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jones, Bryan D. <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 7:06 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: P-Lead Safety
>
> <bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
> >
> >If you're going to be at a fly-in or somewhere with non-airplane people
> >around, do a mag check before shutting down. Don't ground both mags while
> >under power, or it will probably backfire when you go back to hot.
> >Regarding a break in the P-lead... anyone have noise suppression capacitors
> >on their mags? I do. That's a break in the P-lead. I don't see where
> >using a connector makes the installation overly unsafe. An accident under
> >these circumstances would be a double-jeopardy situation and remote.
> >Pre-flight mag check should be more than adequate frequency for checking
> the
> >integrity of the P-leads, continuous or not, IMVHO.
> >
> >Bryan Jones
> >-8 765BJ 55 hrs
> >Pearland, Texas
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
I've been drooling over the Nav 122D also. It doesn't have a marker
beacon receiver or lights, however.
Can't find John Stark Avionics in the Yeller Pages. Do you have a
website or a telephone number.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
-------------------------------------------
> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Narco Nav 122D
>
>
>
> In an effort to throw ALL of my money at my airplane, I was curious if
> anyone has any real-world info on the Narco Nav 122d all-in-one VOR/ILS
> marker beacon unit. Seems like a pretty good price and real compact
> compared to all the separate pieces.
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
>
>
> Ed, it seems like a decent unit (working on canopy now) but it not only is
> self contained but if you buy the version with a resolver built in it
> doubles as an external cdi indicator for your gps (assuming of coarse your
> considering one...) install was straight forward but, the paperwork was
> second rate...I mean after using the garmin install manuals the narco manual
> looked like a second grade science fair project (no offense to the second
> graders out there...) that said I was still able to discern what goes
> where. I'm happy with my choice .......``btw call john stark avionics for an
> awesome price"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Joystick Height RV6/9 |
Norman: My panel is 2" shorter then stock. What I did on the Joy stick on my
RV 6A was to sit in it with the full length of the stick, and seats. With my
elbow on the arm rest, holding the stick at a comfortable position,
determined what felt right to me I then cut it off and put on the grip. Still
not just right so using a tubing cutter ,cut it off a little more to the
perfect length. Worked for me. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
What are your thoughts on installing the battery (sans box), starter
contactor and battery contactor on the engine side of the firewall?
For future maintenance Ii seems they would be more accessible at this
location.
Cash Copeland
QB #60075
RV-6 N46FC (Reserved)
Oakland, Ca
>That is why there was a gap between putting the new battery in and putting
>the battery in a box. I didn't think there was a problem but then an A&P
>came to look over my plane for possible buying, he said that it was
>dangerous not to have a box. A&P, IA's are the experts.
>>Batteries have been known to explode so I would recommend some kind of
>>secondary containment for safety regardless if it is an RG, flooded cell or
>>whatever.
Battery boxes have NEVER been designed to contain an exploding
battery . . . in fact, battery boxes have been DEMONSTRATED
to make an explosion more likely if not more violent.
Real life case in point:
Amateur built airplane, all composite, very nice composite
battery box glassed right into the passenger seat back.
Alternator goes into OV. No annunciation of OV condition
and battery begins to outgas. In the course of "troublshooting"
the system, a few switches get thrown, one of which is
the battery master contactor control switch. Battery contactor
INSIDE the box with the battery ignites ideal mixture and
blows up battery box.
No flight-safety damage to aircraft but the pilot's underwear
was seriously compromised.
What's the physics of this event? To have an explosion you
must have three conditions. (1) A source of FUEL that's mixed
in proportions to produce rapid combustion. Too much fuel/
oxygen, no explosion; too little fuel/oxygen, no explosion.
Cook a battery and you disassociate water H20 into H2 and
O2 in ratios ideal for recombination in spectacular manner.
(2) CONTAINMENT in this case was the nicely crafted battery
box. Without containment, gunpowder simply burns. Wrap it
up in rolls of newspaper and you have a firecracker. Finally,
(3) IGNITION provided by the battery contactor located inside
the battery box.
LOTS of things could be done to break the chain of events
that could have been much more serious . . .
(1) Proper ov protection on the airplane's electrical system.
(2) No battery box . . . let the vented gasses waft away
in the breeze.
(3) Don't mount electrical equipment inside the battery box
along with the battery.
(4) Adequate instrumentation on the electrical system to
KNOW what's happening when stuff starts to misbehave and
adequate UDERSTANDING of the system to do the right things
about it.
By the way, the BIG guys don't have battery boxes either.
The battery on a bizjet comes with a nice connector on the
side. You drop the critter into a tray, strap it down
and plug it in. None the less, there are documented cases
of an RG battery blowing up when a poorly welded inter-cell
connector burned off . . . needless to say, a redesign and
modification to the assembly process was accomplished in
a hurry.
Not one government-approved airplane-banger in ten
understands or can explain what you've just read.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb(at)earthlink.net> |
I've been drooling over the Nav 122D also. It doesn't have a marker
beacon receiver or lights, however.
Can't find John Stark Avionics in the Yeller Pages. Do you have a
website or a telephone number.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
-------------------------------------------
> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Narco Nav 122D
>
>
>
> In an effort to throw ALL of my money at my airplane, I was curious if
> anyone has any real-world info on the Narco Nav 122d all-in-one VOR/ILS
> marker beacon unit. Seems like a pretty good price and real compact
> compared to all the separate pieces.
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
>
>
> Ed, it seems like a decent unit (working on canopy now) but it not only is
> self contained but if you buy the version with a resolver built in it
> doubles as an external cdi indicator for your gps (assuming of coarse your
> considering one...) install was straight forward but, the paperwork was
> second rate...I mean after using the garmin install manuals the narco manual
> looked like a second grade science fair project (no offense to the second
> graders out there...) that said I was still able to discern what goes
> where. I'm happy with my choice .......``btw call john stark avionics for an
> awesome price"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
They have... It's called "Aircell". The have antennas looking up, mounted
on regular cell towers. This is the only licensed company that I've heard.
They have the FCC approval sewn up. The only thing is you have to buy their
equipment, which is about $3000. Which of course is alot better than the
price of other inflight phones. And their euqipment is top notch.
Greg
>
>
> You know, seems all this kind of thing could be alleviated by the cell
> phone companies figuring out how we can use cells in the air vice
> buying expensive equipment from one or two companies _and_ buying their
> extremely expensive service to phone home from the air.
>
>
>
> Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 N140RV (Reserved)
> Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Narco Nav 122D |
Are you sure? I had heard that it does, and the ACS catalog description
says that it does.
Ed
> It doesn't have a marker
> beacon receiver or lights, however.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <dap(at)DParsons.com> |
Would this happen to be the one you are looking for:
http://www.mindspring.com/~jts7/starkav.html
(706)321-1008 or E-MAIL at jts7(at)mindspring.com
Let me know if this is the wrong one.
Don Parsons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles E. Brame
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 1:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Narco Nav 122D
I've been drooling over the Nav 122D also. It doesn't have a marker
beacon receiver or lights, however.
Can't find John Stark Avionics in the Yeller Pages. Do you have a
website or a telephone number.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A QB, On the gear
San Antonio, TX
-------------------------------------------
> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Narco Nav 122D
>
>
> In an effort to throw ALL of my money at my airplane, I was curious if
> anyone has any real-world info on the Narco Nav 122d all-in-one VOR/ILS
> marker beacon unit. Seems like a pretty good price and real compact
> compared to all the separate pieces.
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
>
>
> Ed, it seems like a decent unit (working on canopy now) but it not only is
> self contained but if you buy the version with a resolver built in it
> doubles as an external cdi indicator for your gps (assuming of coarse your
> considering one...) install was straight forward but, the paperwork was
> second rate...I mean after using the garmin install manuals the narco
manual
> looked like a second grade science fair project (no offense to the second
> graders out there...) that said I was still able to discern what goes
> where. I'm happy with my choice .......``btw call john stark avionics for
an
> awesome price"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Pittman" <SPITTMAN(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | S-Tec installation in RV-4 |
Has anyone installed a S-Tec 20 or 30 in their RV-4? I understand that
there is actually a installation kit for the RV-6. I would think that the
roll servo provisions would be similar.
Thanks for the help.
Scott Pittman
Ready to close wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | GNS430 Owners... |
For those who have installed a GNS430 in their panel.....I am planning on
using a 14V GNS430 as my sole nav/gs source (output to a CDI)....my two
questions are:
1. Is a seperate unit needed to change the CDI between NAV and GPS?
2. Do I need to purchase a Single Nav/Glideslope coupler if I am planning
on using only one nav ant as a nav and GS ant? Or does the unit have one
plug in the back for nav and GS?
Thanks,
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve DiNieri" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
I know mine does not include the marker beacon as I use the one in the audio
panel. J Stark Aviation 706-321-1008 tell him your from the list, and just
ask him if they offer one with an included beacon receiver......
Are you sure? I had heard that it does, and the ACS catalog description
says that it does.
Ed
> It doesn't have a marker
> beacon receiver or lights, however.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl True <carltrue(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fun with the FAA |
I have for the most part stopped filing VFR flight
plans because in my experience they are more efficient
at "automatic death notification" than they are at
initiating search and rescue. My wife's ticker can't
take any more of that. I now use flight following
instead, unless its a very long flight over
inhospitable terrain or where I know FF is not
available.
Carl True - CCB - Still flying a Spam Can
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Truly dead engine |
Thats why we always do the 3-Ms before we leave the seat cusion MIXTURE,MAGS,
MASTER,
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
I stopped filing VFR flight plans when they had search and rescue just
about started. I had 4 witnesses that would verify that I called and
closed one plan and filed a plan for a return flight. I still had my
notes. I called them about it and they said not to worry about it
because they do hundreds of them a day and mistakes do happen. I was
not chewed out.
RE Miller wrote:
>
> --- Larry Pardue wrote:
>
> > I avoid filing VFR flight plans myself now, for
> > reasons other than these.
> > It is too bad how the FAA has gone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Bleeding dual brakes - left side okay; right won't |
Hi
Frustrating! Left side brakes bleed no brainer but the right side seems
plugged or something. It looks as tho fluid cannot go out of pax right
pedal to pilots.
Any ideas? Valves? How do these little master cylinders work anyway?
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Narco Nav 122D |
Nope, not according to the Narco site anyway.
http://www.narco-avionics.com/n122web.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Narco Nav 122D
>
> Are you sure? I had heard that it does, and the ACS catalog description
> says that it does.
>
> Ed
>
> > It doesn't have a marker
> > beacon receiver or lights, however.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Phillips" <jphilrv6(at)earthlink.net> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
My experience with batterys used on military aircraft is that their case is
essentialy a battery box and they are positively vented to the atmosphere.
James
> By the way, the BIG guys don't have battery boxes either.
> The battery on a bizjet comes with a nice connector on the
> side. You drop the critter into a tray, strap it down
> and plug it in.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: S-Tec installation in RV-4 |
Scott,
A nice auto-pilot installation is a Century 2000. Many are being used.
Garmin 430 (12V model) have just been released. I've got mine.
Regards,
TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:RVator newsletter |
In a message dated 9/14/00 10:43:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
> I can't recall when I got my last issue........IS anyone else receiving it
> or has the move at Vans curtailed this activity ??
Seems like the newsletter is on the same schedule as always. When the flying
weather and airshow beat is good, no newletters. About Oct or Nov , you will
get one every two to three weeks.
Bernie Kerr, 6A , SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV List: 35 new air-to-air Homecoming images by |
Ed Hicks.
--- " (Content Technologies
>
> Ed, given the quality of your work, we ALL got a
> good deal. Sure glad you are an
> RV fan, I thank you and my wallpaper thanks you.
>
> Eric Henson
>
>
> Edward Hicks on 09/14/2000
>
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV List: 35 new air-to-air
> Homecoming images by Ed Hicks.
>
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> >>>, therefore I would like to think that RV owners
> got what I
> hope is a good deal on their pictures.
>
>
Given the quality of the work and the number of good
shots taken, the people that paid Ed to take in flight
photos got a FANTASTIC deal. I fly a lot and would
easily spend more on film and gas than Ed charges for
his photo session.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
650+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
"I never knew what real happiness was until I got married; and then it was too
late..." - Jack Handey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Fuelube, Sealube, which is which |
Can someone please tell me what the official use for Fuelube and Sealube is???
They are both anti seize and both are good around fuel and oil so what's the
difference?
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants(DNA) |
In a message dated 09/12/2000 6:24:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Should we put dimples(or vortex
generators on our airplanes)? Only if we have a separation problem!! >>
I know of a fellow that dogfights with his RV-4. He has a series of vortex
generators
across the entire length of both wings. He claims that he can turn tighter
now than before and he says nobody will dogfight him anymore.
Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
In a message dated 09/12/2000 7:47:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cretsinger(at)arlington.net writes:
<< I have an O-320 H2AD 160 hp engine with Sensenich metal prop. >>
NOTICE
Today I received an Emergency Airworthiness Directive 2000-18-53. It
included a glut of Lycoming engines.(certain 0320, 0360, I0360, etc. etc.
etc. Of particular interest to me was not only the fact that I fly a
Cherokee with an 0320E2A which is NOT on the list, but did notice the
0320H2AD which some RVers are using, amongst others. Although we are not
subject to AD's, this one has to do with the oil filter converter plate
gaskets(part # LW-13388) extruding from the seat of the oil filter converter
plate(LW-13904). The protruding or swelling of the gasket allows oil to leak
from between the plate and the accessory housing, and if not corrected, could
result in complete loss of engine oil and subsequent seizing of the engine
and possible fire.
Please check this address: http://av-info.faa.gov
I'd hate to see this slip past someone.
Jim Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto P-lead Connector |
Charlie and Tupper England
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>
> I am using a multi-pin connector for the wiring going to the
> instrument panel in my RV-4. My magneto switches (toggle) are on the panel.
> Does anyone know if there is a way I can run the shielded magneto p-lead
> wires through a
> connector without defeating the purpose of the shielding? I have thought
> about separating the wire and the shielding at the connector and crimping or
> soldering the shielding to its own connector pin. I would do the same on
> the other
> side of the connector. Would this work?
>
> Ted Lumpkin
>
Ted,
If you don't mind additional connectors, there are several coaxial
connectors, both inline & bulkhead, to choose from. Any well equipped
electronic supply house should be able to help you.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com> |
Life was simple just a moment ago and now, not so. Had a great flight the
other evening at sunset. Harvest moon over the Atlantic, beautiful sunset
off to the west. Returning to home base after squeezing out all twilight, I
taxied toward the hangar and noticed the engine idled erratic. Open the
throttle some and it ran smooth. Pull in front of the hangar & pulled
mixture out to shut down. Nothing. Engine still runs. Engine surging at
idle throttle. Try idle cut-off & again nothing. Turn engine off with the
mags. Get out & see fuel dripping out from the cowl. Not good. Remove
cowl & it's apparent the carb is flooded.
Remove carb (new MA4-SPA w/ 132 hrs on it) & take it to SE Fuel Systems for
check out. They say all is well and floats/valve held at 6 psi. They
suggest I must have exceeded 6 psi and flooded the carb. Then I remember a
few flights ago I did see 9 psi on my uMonitor. Didn't think much of it at
the time. Didn't look when the carb flooded, unfortunately.
Reinstalled the carb. Run up the engine for check out. Fuel pressure
immediately reads 12 psi at 1000 rpm. Shut down. Crack open the hose to
the fuel sender. Turn on the uMonitor. It reads 6 psi when open to
atmoshpere. Hook it back up & turn on Facet pump. uMonitor reads 8 psi.
Now, would you fly this airplane?
Here's what I know:
1. Carb flooded most likely from over pressurized fuel.
2. Fuel sender crapped out. Perhaps from too much pressure?
3. Carb flooded coincided when facet pump was on (turn on for landing &
didn't turn off immediately.)
4. Engine driven fuel pump is putting out 6+ psi at 1000 rpm.
5. No adjustment on engine driven fuel pump.
6. No fuel pressure relief valve.
Your comments are welcomed.
Rick Caldwell
-6 Melbourne, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants(DNA) |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants(DNA) |
Jim,
Where's he live? I fly a 4 and would love to match up with your
friend. I live in central California.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <JNice51355(at)AOL.COM>
> I know of a fellow that dogfights with his RV-4. He has a series of
vortex
> generators
> across the entire length of both wings. He claims that he can turn
tighter
> now than before and he says nobody will dogfight him anymore.
> Jim Nice
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Truly dead engine |
Don
This is a very frequent thing. I'm not sure why it happens but there are
several possibilities. I've had almost every student miss the mixture on the
checklist and the engine runs even if it hasn't been primed. Curious thing.
Bob
Fairings Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fun with the FAA |
>
>> I sometimes have the same trouble with mine, N3642. A few controllers
>> have asked Experimental 3642 what?
>
Clip
>THEM: Aircraft calling, please say full callsign.
>ME: Podunk flight watch, November Six Romeo IS my full callsign.
>THEM: Roger, november One-Two-Three-Six-Romeo, squawk xxxx
>ME: (sigh)
>
>Oh sure I'm still glad I got the unique number. But it does surprise me how
>much trouble controllers have with it. I mean, they talk to airlines and
>military and life flight and CAP and traffic watch with all their funny
>callsigns. And they must encounter shorter N numbers now and then so they
>know they exist. So why so much trouble with it? Any controller types out
>there care to comment?
>
Randall,
I think the problem is caused by the fact that such a large proportion of
weekend pilot types improperly make an initial abreviated call. When you
get that constantly and have to constantly ask for the full call you are
just primed for it. Really saying November Six Romeo, the way you do,
should take care of it though.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Narco Nav 122D |
In a message dated 9/14/00 12:03:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
charleyb(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Can't find John Stark Avionics in the Yeller Pages. >>
Listed in the Yellers as Stark Avionics (duh).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rywessel(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | KX-125 mounting depth |
Regarding the depth required behind the panel the KX-125 schematic indicates
10.38" including RF,molex, and cooling duct.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A Finishing
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KAKlewin(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | GNS430 Owners... |
For those who have installed a GNS430 in their panel.....I am planning on
using a 14V GNS430 as my sole nav/gs source (output to a CDI)....my two
questions are:
1. Is a seperate unit needed to change the CDI between NAV and GPS?
2. Do I need to purchase a Single Nav/Glideslope coupler if I am planning
on using only one nav ant as a nav and GS ant? Or does the unit have one
plug in the back for nav and GS?
Thanks,
Kurt, OKC, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Betty Burton <dburton(at)foxinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re:RVator newsletter |
David & Betty Burton
Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/14/00 10:43:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
> writes:
>
> > I can't recall when I got my last issue........IS anyone else receiving it
> > or has the move at Vans curtailed this activity ??
Van said at the Homecoming that the newsletter was ready to go into the mail,
if it hadn't shipped already. I haven't seen my copy yet, but I assume that they
are at least close to mailing it. Their priority has to be on getting parts and
kits out. They said they were working overtime and second shifts to try and
take care of everything. I was looking at all of the stuff in the warehouse
while I was there and just carefully moving every F-604 (or whatever), without
scratching or damaging it and getting it in place so they can find and ship from
the new facility must have been a real headache. From what I've seen, every
piece of every kit is stored loose on shelving. It looked like a giant task. The
good news is it looks like they are up to speed, and they have added a second CNC
punch which should speed up parts production.
Dave Burton
RV6A, wing spars
near Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
"lothar klingmuller"
Bob, all what you have written makes so much sense!
Now in the RV airplanes we have a nice, though not airtight, aluminum
enclosure. Guess I will have to drill some lightening holes in the top and
sides so possible hydrogen gasses never can build up.
See you at Burlington, Lothar RV-6A, wiring instrument panel
> What's the physics of this event? To have an explosion you
> must have three conditions. (1) A source of FUEL that's mixed
> in proportions to produce rapid combustion. Too much fuel/
> oxygen, no explosion; too little fuel/oxygen, no explosion.
> Cook a battery and you disassociate water H20 into H2 and
> O2 in ratios ideal for recombination in spectacular manner.
> (2) CONTAINMENT in this case was the nicely crafted battery
> box. Without containment, gunpowder simply burns. Wrap it
> up in rolls of newspaper and you have a firecracker. Finally,
> (3) IGNITION provided by the battery contactor located inside
> the battery box.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich 13 inch spinner cut out template |
>Be careful using this diagram. I used it two years ago. Downloaded it from
>the Sensenich site and tried to make the templates work. Scaling seems to
>get lost in the data formatting somewhere. Either in the orginal data
Interesting. I actually surfed the site last week and could not find a
template. I contacted the Sensenich engineering staff and they posted this
pattern out to the site the next day. It's also pretty easy to make sure that
the image was not rescaled during the printing process by checking the grid with
a ruler. I think it was on a half inch grid and my copy printed out on a laser
was right on the money.
I'm mounting my prop this weekend so I will report on rather the current spinner
image was on target or just sent me off in the weeds.
Thanks for the heads up.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 carb Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard L. Lamb" <rll(at)netcom.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Sioux Air Drill and DeVilbiss HVLP Spraygun |
Listers:
A couple more good deals as a result of my postponed project.
Sioux 1410 1/4" pneumatic mini-palm drill. Never used. Picture at:
http:\\www.iea.com\dlamb\drillsioux.jpg. Asking $125.00, and
I'll pay shipping.
DeVilbiss "Finish Line" HVLP suction feed spraygun. Model
FLG-622-322. This is the "$159 Habor Freight gun" that has
received some good recommendations on this list. This one
is still in its sealed box! Asking $100.00, and I'll pay the
shipping.
Richard Lamb
rll(at)netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
>Today I received an Emergency Airworthiness Directive 2000-18-53. It
>included a glut of Lycoming engines.(certain 0320, 0360, I0360, etc. etc.
Jim: Many thanks for the link. When I first saw your post I decided to go out
to the Textron Lycoming site and look this up. Ha. Ha. Pretty funny huh. About
the only information available for free on the Textron site is the number of
their sales office. If you want to pay them $300 a year subscription fee you
can get all the information you want. Boy, after paying them a truck load of
money for my engine, you would think this kind of information would be free.
I popped out to the site you suggested and in two mouse clicks I was able to
find out that the O-360A1A is NOT affected by AD 2000-18-53. I know there are
a
lot of folks out there like me using this engine on 6s and 8s so I can save them
the trouble of looking this site up.
Thanks again for the info,
- Jim
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360A1A Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington Fly-in |
Shuttles are provide to and from the airport, see you there
gary
--
Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado
RV-6A N99PZ Flying
Engine: Aerosport Power O-360-A1A with H2AD Pistons
Prop: Sensenich 72FM8S9-1-83
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental battery box |
Apparently battery boxes are supposed to be vented. One vent into the box and one
out, and to outside the aircraft. Didn't know that until the FAA inspector
commented on the fact that I don't have a battery box.
Finn
lothar klingmuller wrote:
>
> Bob, all what you have written makes so much sense!
> Now in the RV airplanes we have a nice, though not airtight, aluminum
> enclosure. Guess I will have to drill some lightening holes in the top and
> sides so possible hydrogen gasses never can build up.
> See you at Burlington, Lothar RV-6A, wiring instrument panel
>
>
>
> > What's the physics of this event? To have an explosion you
> > must have three conditions. (1) A source of FUEL that's mixed
> > in proportions to produce rapid combustion. Too much fuel/
> > oxygen, no explosion; too little fuel/oxygen, no explosion.
> > Cook a battery and you disassociate water H20 into H2 and
> > O2 in ratios ideal for recombination in spectacular manner.
> > (2) CONTAINMENT in this case was the nicely crafted battery
> > box. Without containment, gunpowder simply burns. Wrap it
> > up in rolls of newspaper and you have a firecracker. Finally,
> > (3) IGNITION provided by the battery contactor located inside
> > the battery box.
>
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | where to buy fuelube/sealube |
This sounds like good stuff, where can I pick it up?
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Noel" <bnoel(at)ausa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
You are most DEFINATELY subject to that AD if that engine is on your plane!
Why do you think the FAA has less test hours when you use a CERTIFICATED
engine in an experimental aircraft.You may have an experimental aircraft,
but you still have a CERTIFICATED engine. AD's apply to all certificated
products. You may get by with head in the sand logic until an accident when
the insurance will not pay since your aircraft was not airworthy meeting
type design and compliance with applicable FAR's ( AD's are extensions of
part 39). You may also face violation. Bill Noel A&P,IA - Chief Inspector,
volunteer FAA counselor Dallas pain in the ass region.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JNice51355(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 8:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Emergency Airworthiness Directive
>
> In a message dated 09/12/2000 7:47:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> cretsinger(at)arlington.net writes:
>
> << I have an O-320 H2AD 160 hp engine with Sensenich metal prop. >>
> NOTICE
> Today I received an Emergency Airworthiness Directive 2000-18-53. It
> included a glut of Lycoming engines.(certain 0320, 0360, I0360, etc. etc.
> etc. Of particular interest to me was not only the fact that I fly a
> Cherokee with an 0320E2A which is NOT on the list, but did notice the
> 0320H2AD which some RVers are using, amongst others. Although we are not
> subject to AD's, this one has to do with the oil filter converter plate
> gaskets(part # LW-13388) extruding from the seat of the oil filter
converter
> plate(LW-13904). The protruding or swelling of the gasket allows oil to
leak
> from between the plate and the accessory housing, and if not corrected,
could
> result in complete loss of engine oil and subsequent seizing of the engine
> and possible fire.
> Please check this address: http://av-info.faa.gov
> I'd hate to see this slip past someone.
> Jim Nice
> WA State
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: where to buy fuelube/sealube |
Aircraft Spruce is where I got mine.
- Jim
Rvmils(at)AOL.COM on 09/15/2000 10:37:40 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Rvmils(at)AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: where to buy fuelube/sealube
This sounds like good stuff, where can I pick it up?
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Airworthiness Directive |
Folks:
From what I read in the AD, this generally applies to those Lycoming models
with the D4LN-3000 impulse coupling dual magnetos (dual mags with one
drive).
For example, one listed engine is the 0-360-A1AD. This engine is the same
as a -A1A but the D suffix indicates the dual mag configuration.
Anyone correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks
Doug
================
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
715-386-1239
dougweil(at)pressenter.com
>
> >Today I received an Emergency Airworthiness Directive 2000-18-53. It
> >included a glut of Lycoming engines.(certain 0320, 0360, I0360, etc. etc.
>
> Jim: Many thanks for the link. When I first saw your post I decided to go
out
> to the Textron Lycoming site and look this up. Ha. Ha. Pretty funny huh.
About
> the only information available for free on the Textron site is the number
of
> their sales office. If you want to pay them $300 a year subscription fee
you
> can get all the information you want. Boy, after paying them a truck
load of
> money for my engine, you would think this kind of information would be
free.
>
> I popped out to the site you suggested and in two mouse clicks I was able
to
> find out that the O-360A1A is NOT affected by AD 2000-18-53. I know there
are a
> lot of folks out there like me using this engine on 6s and 8s so I can
save them
> the trouble of looking this site up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Experimental Aircraft and AD's |
Yes, I agree that a Continental or Lycoming on an experimental aircraft IS
subject to AD's except when that engine is no longer a certified unit. BUT
even tho my engine is a Lycoming O-320 D1A and is NOT certified I always
comply even tho it is not legally required. WHY? Because I think flying is a
lot of fun but not enough fun to get killed over!
I had a long discussion on this point with the FSDO folks from the MKE
office and on this point I feel strongly that for your own sake, and the
sake of others that you may take up with you, that compliance only makes
sense, legally required or not.
FWIW RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
September 10, 2000 - September 15, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jg